Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
SIMON C. WOODWARD
PLB Consulting Ltd, Malton
Introduction
A recent report suggested that faith tourism based on Christianity is one of the strongest
growing sectors in international tourism today, generating at least US$1 billion per annum
(Tourism Trendspotter, 2000). For example, it was estimated in 2000 that approximately
30 million pilgrims visited Rome and 4 million visited the Holy Land. It also has to be
recognized that faith tourism is not just a feature of Christianity, but of almost every religion. Indeed, some locations are important to more than one faith. Jerusalem is sacred to
three religions Judaism, Christianity and Islam, a situation which brings with it
additional challenges in terms of visitor management.
Nor is it just Christianity that generates high levels of visitor activity. More than 2
million Hindus take part in the Kumbh Mela, while hundreds of thousands of Buddhists
travel to Kandy, Sri Lanka, every year to the Esala Perahara, when the Sacred Tooth
Correspondence Address: Dr Simon Woodward, PLB Consulting Ltd, The Mattings, Castlegate, Malton, YO17
7DP, UK.
1479-053X Print/1479-0548 Online/04/010173 14 # 2004 Taylor & Francis Ltd
DOI: 10.1080/1479053042000251089
174 S. C. Woodward
Relic of the Lord Buddha is paraded through the town. And some 2.5 million Muslims
travel to the Holy City of Makkah each year to perform Hajj one of the five pillars of
Islam. The importance of the Hajj to the Saudi Arabian economy is considerable, with
revenue from the 2003 Hajj estimated at SR 5 billion (US$1.5 billion). Some 40 per
cent of this, or SR 2 billion (US$0.6 billion), was made from renting out apartment buildings to better-off pilgrims (Arab News, 2003).
This paper considers not just the narrow sector of faith tourism but the broader role of
sacred sites within the overall tourism product. In this paper some of the issues associated
with tourism development and visitor management in historic cities are explored
especially in relation to significant religious buildings such as cathedrals, temples and
mosques. This review excludes graveyards, many of which also function both as sacred
spaces and as tourist destinations; for example, for the large numbers of young people
whose first point of call in Paris is Jim Morrisons grave located in the Pe`re Lachaise Cemetery in the east of Paris. Nor does this survey include the semi-sacred spaces found
outside churches and other religious buildings, such as the space in front of a cathedral
that might at certain times of the year be used for ceremonial purposes, but is often
used by tourists like any other plaza, with little respect to local custom or the value
accorded to that place.
1999 visits
2000 visits
% change
Tower of London
York Minster
Canterbury Cathedral
Westminster Abbey
Windsor Castle
Chester Cathedral
St Pauls Cathedral
Roman Baths, Bath
Stonehenge
Warwick Castle
2,430,000
1,900,000
1,320,000
1,260,000
1,280,000
1,000,000
1,070,000
920,000
840,000
790,000
2,300,000
1,750,000
1,260,000
1,230,000
1,130,000
1,000,000
940,000
930,000
800,000
790,000
25%
28%
24%
22%
212%
0%
212%
1%
24%
0%
Managing Pilgrims
Of course, visits to holy places are not new. There are reports of pilgrimage to Jerusalem in
the third century AD (Wilkinson, 1998), and by the fourth century such visits were so well
established that a hospitality structure organized by local clergy was in place. Indeed,
pilgrimage destinations for any faith tend quickly to develop the facilities needed to
accommodate the needs of travellers. The word statio, the original Latin word for
station, meant a place on a pilgrim highway that provided welfare and sanctuary
(Putter, 1998).
In Islam, the long history of the pilgrimage to Makkah, the Hajj, led, first, to an informal
situation where different families and clans from Jeddah and Makkah took responsibility
for managing different aspects of the hospitality function. Some families arranged transport and accommodation for pilgrims travelling down from the Levant, others looked after
the caravans coming up from the areas that are now Oman and Yemen, while others
secured sufficient sheep to be ritually slaughtered at Eid al-Adha, the celebration at the
end of the Hajj that commemorates the obedience of Abraham, the Prophet Ibrahim,
when he was called upon to sacrifice his son Ismail, and his triumph over the temptations
of the devil.
The medieval philosophy was that no pilgrim should need to enter a sacred site unwelcome or unannounced; hence the preferred arrangement for pilgrims to move in groups
towards their final destination, having first arrived in an assembly station. This remains
true in the case of the Hajj where the logistics of managing 1.5 to 2 million international
pilgrims and a further 0.5 million Saudis has created the need to establish a separate ministry to deal with every aspect of the event. One of the roles of the ministry is to issue
licences to private companies, many of which are in the ownership of the same families
who offered services to pilgrims hundreds of years ago and who continue to facilitate
the Hajj operation.
It is interesting too to note that the Ministry of Hajj was established many years before
the Saudi government saw a need to set up a Ministry of Tourism. It should be noted,
however, that the Saudis do not perceive people coming to perform Hajj or Umrah, the
little pilgrimage, as tourists despite the facts that pilgrims use almost every aspect of
the hospitality and transport infrastructure and that pilgrimage is classified by the
World Tourism Organisation as a form of tourism. This is partly because of the obligatory
nature of Hajj, whereas tourism is by definition a discretionary activity, but it also reflects
176 S. C. Woodward
the seriousness with which the Kingdoms rulers take their responsibility as Custodians of
the Two Holy Mosques, a duty they perform on behalf of all Muslims.
Changing Circumstances in the UK
In the past, pilgrimage to holy shrines at Canterbury, Walsingham and Durham, for
instance, were large-scale events. It is reported that St Margarets shrine in Dunfermline
Abbey attracted up to 200,000 pilgrims per year in the Middle Ages, with peak periods
seeing 20,000 people travelling to a town of only 2,000 residents (Putter, 1998).
However, pilgrimage was outlawed in 1559 after the Reformation, and as a result the organized nature of visits to holy places quickly faded into memory. It was only in the
twentieth century, with the emergence of organized tourism, that large numbers of
people once again visited the cathedrals and major churches of Britain.
By this time, the economies of historic cathedral towns had changed considerably. Many
had become market centres for the surrounding rural area, and some, such as Oxford, Durham
and St Andrews, had also become important university towns. Thus, faith-based tourism
became only one of many economic sectors to be accommodated within the urban structure.
Tourism Impacts on the Built Environment
As tourism of all kinds has grown, so has the pressure that it brings to bear on historic
towns. Orbasli (2000a) identifies the following key problems associated with tourism
pressures in historic towns:
.
.
.
.
Overcrowding
Traffic and parking
Insufficient services and infrastructure
Changes to ownership patterns and the loss of the traditional, mixed economy.
A basic categorization of the impact of visitors at cultural heritage sites, used by the International Ecotourism Society in its Destination Planning workshops, is as follows:
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
So what problems are faced by the religious buildings that form such an important part of
the tourism experience in the UKs historic towns?
Problems Associated with Tourism at Cathedrals and Churches in the UK
In 2000, ICOMOS UK undertook a major investigation looking at how cathedrals and
churches meet the needs of their visitors (ICOMOS UK, 2001), the project updating work
undertaken almost 25 years previously by the English Tourist Board. Almost 100 cathedrals
and churches took part and the principal problems reported are shown in Table 2.
Issue
2000 ICOMOS
UK study
1977 ETB
survey
54%
27%
20%
10%
10%
9%
9%
46%
33%
33%
178 S. C. Woodward
on special guided tours. Most of the other buildings on the peninsula are owned and used
either by the university or the Dean and Chapter. Thus, the historic core of the city is both a
tourist destination and a place to live and work.
Most tourists come to Durham by car or coach, and the medieval road network leading
up to Palace Green, which lies between the cathedral and castle, was becoming overcrowded and dangerous. Before 2002, when the charge was introduced, some 2,000
vehicles a day were coming into the charging zone between 10 am and 4 pm. This has
been cut to around 200 vehicles a massive 90 per cent reduction in vehicle movements
(Hetherington, 2003). Supporting the charging scheme has been the introduction of a small
bus between Palace Green and the main car parks around the city, the bus and rail stations.
To date, the effect on attendances at the cathedral has not been particularly noticeable
but there needs to be more extensive monitoring before the situation can be assessed with
greater accuracy. Some local traders report lower sales since the scheme was introduced
but, again, this may reflect the current slow down in the UK economy or short-term
changes happening as a consequence of the introduction of new schemes.
At Westminster Abbey in Central London, another World Heritage Site, where congestion charges have been levied since February 2003, there is less concern about the likely
effect it will have on visitor numbers since the majority of Abbey visitors arrive either by
coach or on public transport. Oxford Cathedral, however, reports that the introduction of
access restrictions and parking limits in the city centre in summer 1999 led to a significant
fall in visitor numbers (ICOMOS UK, 2001).
Charging a flat fee for vehicles entering a particular zone or part of a city, as in Durham
and London, is referred to as a regressive tax (Crawford, 2000) in that the tax level is independent of the ability to pay and the rate paid falls proportionately as income increases. For
instance, a US$2 toll on a weekly income of $100 per week is 2 per cent, while $2 for
someone earning $200 per week is only 1 per cent of their income. It is thus likely to
favour better-off tourists who, as market research suggests, represent the core market for
all types of cultural heritage tourism. Thus, charging for car access into historic city
centres may have the twin benefits, from a tourism point of view, of reducing the overall
intrusion of vehicles into an area while not unduly discriminating against the core market.
Whether or not it is politically correct to be this exclusive is, of course, open to question.
Coach Access
Coach access is another aspect of vehicle management that is crucial to the welcome that
UK cathedrals give visitors. Yet again, many of the UKs historic towns are unable to cater
adequately for the needs of coach operators and strict parking and setting down/pick up
policies are imposed, much to the chagrin of tour operators whose itineraries are strictly
timed and for whom walking time is preferably kept to a minimum.
At Lincoln Cathedral, in eastern England, the Dean and Chapter are negotiating with the
Highways Department of the County Council over how additional coach drop-off points and
parking can be provided so that the cathedral can benefit from the citys emerging status as a
tourism destination. Finance is an essential part of the cathedrals argument here. The annual
maintenance budget for the cathedral alone exceeds 1 million (US$1.6 million) and admission charges account for some 50 per cent of all revenue raised from visitors. The more
people that visit the cathedral, the higher the income and the easier it is to maintain the
fabric of the building without drawing on the Churchs financial reserves.
Unfortunately, in Lincoln, the situation is complicated by the urban morphology. Socalled uphill Lincoln comprises a network of medieval streets, steep hills and narrow
arches, including the only Roman arch still used by traffic in the UK today, 1,700 years
180 S. C. Woodward
Table 3. Relative contribution of different income streams, charging sites only
% of gross revenue
Site
Canterbury Cathedral
Glastonbury Abbey
Lincoln Cathedral
St Pauls, London
Oxford Cathedral
Westminster Abbey
St Patricks, Armagh
St Mary the Virgin,
Oxford
St Marys, Rye
Average, all sites
Visitors
(2000)
Donations
Admissions
Catering
Retail
Events
Other
1,350,000
120,000
200,000
1,075,000
175,000
1,270,000
10,000
300,000
1
6
15
1
5
3
10
5
53
77
50
65
90
61
10
60
10
2
6
10
10
40
11
15
30
5
27
30
25
2
40
5
5
10
170,000
n/a
19
7
45
57
28
23
2
9
6
5
are returning to the Abbey in steadily increasing numbers and the tourists have shown that
they much prefer the new arrangements.
(Westminster Abbey, 1996)
It must be said that Westminster Abbey is one of the few UK cathedrals and churches to
levy an admission fee most ask only for donations towards the upkeep of the building.
As an indication of the importance (or otherwise) of admission fees to the finances of some
of our major places of worship, the ICOMOS UK (2001) survey found that, for the nine
buildings in the sample that did levy such a charge, the contribution of admission fees
to overall gross visitor income averaged 57 per cent, ranging from 10 per cent (St Patricks
Cathedral, Armagh) to 90 per cent (Oxford Cathedral).
Thus, in management terms, there appear to be two main advantages of charging for
entry to a cathedral or church:
. It reduces demand, thus retaining or restoring a sense of serenity and place
. Unlike catering or retailing, there is little extra on-cost once the cashiers expenses
are covered and therefore the net contribution to church funds is much greater per
spent compared to those other visitor services that include a significant cost of sale
element.
There is, of course, an ethical issue concerning whether it is appropriate to charge for
access to a house of God and this is something that each Chapter or congregation must
address for itself. Certainly in the case of Westminster Abbey, there was a well-established
tradition of charging within the Abbey and thus the Dean and Chapter did not have to go
through the same ethical debate that, say, Lincoln underwent when it introduced charging
a few years ago. The tenor of the argument presented is not necessarily in favour of charging admission fees at all religious buildings, but pointing out the advantages that can
accrue in visitor planning and management.
47%
36%
31%
30%
26%
24%
16%
15%
in the UK in the sixteenth century, this tradition remains and is now formalized in many of
our cathedrals and churches as a visitor services function. Almost 75 per cent of the
ICOMOS UK (2001) sample has an administrative structure in place for the management
of visitors, with 90 per cent of cathedrals having such a function.
St Pauls Cathedral in London, for example, has a commercial director, some 30 paid
stewards and several hundred volunteers who provide guiding and related services.
Peterborough Cathedral relied for many years on around 20 volunteer welcomers, but
in 1998 decided to augment the volunteers with a team of eight paid welcomers, with
one immediate result being an increase in donations revenue.
Such provision in religious buildings appears to develop in an ad hoc fashion, to
implement management arrangements that address the specific issues faced by each facility and its managers. However, there are a number of common approaches that can be
found across the UKs churches and cathedrals (see Table 4).
One place where the provision of guided tours becomes of considerable benefit is at a
sacred site connected with an unfamiliar religion. In such instances, the benefits include
not only a better understanding of the building and of the religion itself, but also guidance
on appropriate behaviour, something that is important if the visitor is not to cause even
inadvertent offence.
182 S. C. Woodward
the island, building on Sri Lankas outstanding cultural and natural heritage. Kandy will
undoubtedly play a prime role in these efforts, along with the other World Heritage
Sites in Sri Lankas Cultural Triangle.
At peak periods during Poya and other ceremonial occasions, the town can attract up to
a million people, bringing the usual problems of congestion and the straining of the local
infrastructure. Even outside these periods, the small town centre becomes extremely congested and a survey of local people found that 50 per cent felt this was a problem that
needed to be resolved. The municipality does attempt to derive some income from carand coach-borne tourists, levying a daily parking charge of 10 rupees (US$0.13) for
cars and 25 rupees (US$0.65) for coaches, thereby raising some US$350,000 per
annum for heritage conservation in the town.
Given the very low income levels of most Sinhalese, and the sacred nature of the site
for Buddhists, increasing car parking charges to levels that might begin to diminish congestion and, at the same time, raise additional funds for conservation or visitor management is not really an option. It is also important to note that the governments desire to
increase tourism in Kandy is not universally appreciated. A community survey in 1999
found only 50 per cent of local residents in favour of foreign tourists (i.e. non-Buddhists)
visiting the Temple, 40 per cent were concerned at the inappropriate clothing worn by
international tourists and indeed 13 per cent wanted no tourists at all (Kandy Municipal
Council, 2000).
These concerns support an earlier review of the effects of cultural tourism on people
living within the Cultural Triangle, which expressed concern at the intrusion that
tourism will bring to devout Buddhists:
in the eyes of the cultural tourist, the local user partaking in the ritual becomes an actor performing in a theatre set. In this case the set is the vernacular architecture of the Temple of the
Tooth. For the local user, the ritual is an important part of his upliftment process. For the cultural tourist it is a complete drama . . .. The conflict for the user arises as a result. The upliftment, whether spiritual, psychological or religious, is affected and becomes only partial.
(Amarasekera and Navarante, 1993)
In other words, the presence of tourists diminishes the ritual. Local guides can help tourists
avoid unnecessary conflict with worshippers although they cannot resolve the other main
access management issue at the temple, i.e. the need to prevent a recurrence of the suicide
bomb attack in January 1998, which killed eight people, injured 25, and left the entrance
area and temple roof damaged, although the inner chambers and the relic itself were
unharmed. Hopefully, with the recently signed peace accord between the Sri Lankan government and the LTTE, known as the Tamil Tigers, such events will not happen again.
Makkah
Like the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy, the Kabah Mosque (also called the Holy Mosque)
in Makkah attracts hundreds of thousands of devotees at one time. However, Muslims
regard Makkah as an especially holy place, and no non-Muslim is allowed to approach
or enter the city. The Arabic phrase used to describe this is haram, which can mean
both sacred and forbidden. Checkpoints are positioned around the city to check travellers
papers, to ensure that no curious tourist enters Makkah. Nonetheless, with more than one
billion Muslims in the world, there is more than enough latent demand for access to
Makkah during Hajj.
The logistics for visitor management associated with the Hajj pilgrimage are considerable. The Kabah mosque itself is large enough to accommodate 75,000 people at one time
and a tented village to accommodate more than a million pilgrims is built in a narrow
Year
Number of
pilgrims
% change on
previous year
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
1.1 million
1.3 million
1.4 million
1.4 million
1.5 million
1.5 million
18%
8%
0%
7%
0%
valley some 2 km wide just outside the town. The number of Muslims travelling from
overseas to perform Hajj has grown by some 40 per cent in recent years, although the
volume of domestic Hajj participants has recently been declining, from 800,000 in 1995
to around 500,000 in 2003. Overseas demand for Hajj is predicted to grow at around 4
per cent per annum for at least the next five years, while domestic demand is anticipated
to increase again as a result of the changing shift in the age structure of the Saudi population (see Table 5).
In order to meet the obligations of an expanding Muslim population worldwide, there is
pressure on the Saudi government to provide additional capacity to maintain the existing
allocation of one Hajj place per 1,000 resident Muslim population, at least in the short
term. However, there is a physical limit to the number that can perform Hajj at any one
time because of the bottlenecks in Tawaff, Arafat and Mina, where massive numbers of
pilgrims are required to perform certain rituals in a relatively constrained geographical
space and over a short period of time. In the area around the Holy Mosque, hotel and apartment developments place further physical constraints on capacity. Thus in the longer term
the ratio of 1 : 1,000 may not be sustainable and there may have to be a change in the allocation of Hajj places.
As indicated previously, the geography of the area around Makkah and the Holy
Mosque inevitably leads to problems of congestion in some locations. One of the physical
planning responses to this has been the creation of vast underground tunnels to allow pilgrims to walk the 10 km from Makkah to Mount Arafat (Mina) and to walk between the
two small hills of Safa and Marwah. Yet this provision also brings other problems because
of the vast numbers of people involved. For example, in 1990 some 1,400 pilgrims were
killed in a stampede in the pedestrian tunnel that links Makkah and Mina when the ventilation system broke down and people panicked.
There have been other tragedies too, all associated with the enormous number of people
moving around in one location (see Table 6).
184 S. C. Woodward
The fundamental role of Hajj in Islam means that the tangible built heritage of Makkah
has always come second to the improvement of the infrastructure needed to accommodate
visitors. The traditional hierarchy associated with the Holy Mosque and the surrounding
Haram has been severed in the interests of visitor management. In the original urban
layout, common to most Islamic towns (Orbasli, 2000a), the Mosque was at the centre
and the surrounding areas contained the important neighbourhoods that serviced the
Holy Mosque and the pilgrim community.
However, the sacred site in Makkah, including the Holy Mosque, now sits as an island
surrounded by vast road networks that are able to move pilgrims to and from the sites efficiently and a wall of luxury hotels providing for the top end of the market. This reinforces
the point made earlier about income from letting apartments being the main revenue
potential from the pilgrimage. The same situation is true in Madinah, where the Prophet
Mohammed (PBUH) is buried, and where the traditional Aghawat district, with many historic connections to the mosque and the pilgrimage, has been razed to the ground within
the last few years (Bianca, 2000).
As a result of this investment in infrastructure and accommodation for better-off pilgrims, the vernacular architecture of the region is all but invisible in Makkah, although
it can still be seen nearby in Taif. In 2002, the Saudi government was heavily criticized
for demolishing the Ottoman Fort that overlooked the Holy Mosque, almost the last
remaining nineteenth-century building in the town, in order to free up more space for
commercial development and infrastructure. Indeed, as indicated above, little remains
in Madinah of the original townscape, as, again, large apartment blocks have been built
to house pilgrims visiting the Prophet Mosque and other sites associated with early
Islamic tradition.
In the case of Makkah and Madinah, therefore, it is the intangible heritage asset that is
most important, rather than the architecture that is the physical manifestation of that
culture. Thus it is hard for an outsider to criticize the Saudis for their clean sweep
approach to urban development in Makkah and Madinah, for they recognize that it is
not what is seen at a religious building that is important, so much as what people do
and feel.
One interesting, if indirect, effect of the major investment in hotels and apartments to
cater for pilgrims has been the recent move by the Saudi government to establish a
Supreme Commission for Tourism (SCT). At present the apartments in Makkah and
Madinah operate at 100 per cent occupancy for a three- or four-week period around
Hajj and also during Ramadan, then fall to around 20 per cent for the rest of the year,
with an average annual occupancy of around 60 per cent. Apartment and hotel owners
have been putting pressure on the government to review visa and travel restrictions, to
allow international visitors to spend longer in the Kingdom and to be able to travel
freely so that they can visit more sites associated with the Prophet (PBUH).
The SCT has thus been charged with developing the Kingdoms tourism sector in an
attempt to secure better utilization of the Kingdoms hospitality infrastructure, and has
identified other Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) residents and Muslims coming to
Saudi to perform Hajj or Umrah as a key market segment to be targeted. One byproduct of this will inevitably be increased activity at other sacred sites associated with
Islam, sites which to date do not have the infrastructure necessary to welcome and accommodate visitors. Such investment is currently being planned at several sites around the
Kingdom, including a mosque associated with the Prophet (PBUH) in Al Ula, and the battlefield of Al Badr, site of the first battle of the Muslims against non-believers from
Makkah.
186 S. C. Woodward
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