Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
of Historic Cairo
Conservation Series
The Monuments
of Historic Cairo
Nicholas Warner
Cairo
New York
Illustrationcredits:
Aga Khan Trust for Culture: fig. 37; Archivio di State di Torino: pl. 2; author's
drawing: figs. 1, 14, 15, 39, 40 (part), 41 (part), 42 (part), 43 (part), 44 (part), 45
(part), 46, 47 (part], 48; author's photo: fig. 38; author's collection: figs. 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13, 26, 30, pls. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, [all photos Boulos Isaac]; Bernard Quaritch
Ltd., London: fig. 17 [photo John Stone]; Bibliothique Nationale: pls. 1, 3; Comit6
and SCA archives: figs. 32, 33, 34 (part), 35, 41 (part), 42 (part), 43 (part), 44 (part),
45 (part), 47 (part); Deutsches Archiologisches Institut, Abteilung Kairo: fig. 24
[photo Abdel Nasser el-Tayyib/Peter Windzhus]; Folger Shakespeare Libraiy,
Washington D.C.: fig. 16; The Nour Foundation: pl. 4; private collection, France: 45
(part); private collection, Washington D.C.: fig. 25; Rare Books and Special
Collections Library, the American University in Cairo: figs. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 18, 19, 20,
21, 22, 23, 27, 28, 29, 31, 34 (part), 42 (part), pls. 6, 13, 15, [photos Francis
Dzikowski], pl. 12 [photo Mustafa Abd al-Hamid], 43 (part), 44 (part), 45 (pard;
Sarah Searight: p1 . 14; Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kupferstichkabinett: fig. 3
[photo Jbrg P. Anders]; Walters Art Museum, Baltimore: pl. 5
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored In a retrieval system,
or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,
or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher,
This publication was made possible through support provided by the Office of Environment and
Infrastructure/Environment and Engineering (EIIEE), USAID/Egypt, United States Agency for
International Development, under the terms of Grant No. 263-G-00-93-00089-00 The opinions
expressed herein are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S.
Agency for International Development,
Dar cl Kutub No. 16152/03
ISBN 977 424 841 4
Designed by Andrea El-Akshar/AUC Press Design Center
Printed in Egypt
Contents
vii
ix
xii
Introduction:
in Cairo, AD 1500-2000
Architectural Drawings
Descriptive Catalogue
82
.87
Glossary
192
Abbreviations
194
References
195
202
220
243
Maps
251
Foreword
In
vii
tory of how Cairo has been imagined and represented over the course of five hun
dred years; the maps themselves document not only the registered monuments that
lie within the district as well as their context; they also show nearly 150 unrgis
tered, historically important buildings. The accompanying catalogue describes these
monuments and, for the first time, brings together more than a century of scholar
ly research into this architectural heritage; it traces the conservation of many of
these buildings by the Comite de Conservation des Monuments de tArt Arabe, as
well as by institutions that have sustained the Comite's mission of architectural
preservation.
The twentieth-century English poet W.H. Auden wrote that "poetry makes noth
ing happen: it survives in the valley of its saying." Like poetry, The Monuments of
Historic Cairo is in a sense nothing more than a record, documenting a moment of
a city. It is certain, moreover, that the passage of another fifty years will require
another map, another bibliography to trace the writings of a new generation of
architectural historians, another survey of the monuments that have fallen, been
rehabilitated, or simply survived. But for those who have studied the city, worked
here, passed through it, or simply imagined Cairo from afar, there is a subtle poet
ry inherent in these maps: the dashed and dotted lines that record monuments
which survive only as memories, the shaded polygons that frame inaccessible and
unknown interiors, the bracketed numbers that ominously signal a monument's
uncertain future or actual demise, the prefixes ("U" for "unregistered") that draw
attention to hitherto ignored or overlooked structures. Most evocative, perhaps
because of what they conceal, are the large swathes of hatching that describe a liv
ing city dating back more a thousand years, in which hundreds of thousands of
Cairenes, like millions before them, live and work, shop, pray, venerate their saints,
celebrate births and weddings, raise families, and mourn their dead.
We hope that the publication of The Monuments of Historic Cairo will encour
age others to study the city and to see value in preserving its heritage. The poetry
of these maps lies in making Cairo's memory survive, and it is their "saying" that
constitutes Nicholas Warner's achievement.
Jere L. Bacharach and Robert K. Vincent, .lr.
The American Research Center in Egypt, Cairo
viii
FOREWORfD
Acknowledgments
Asa
ing for the preservation of Egypt's cultural heritage was made available
to the American Research Center in Egypt (ARCE) through the United
States Agency for International Development (USAID) in 1993. Under
this grant from USAID, a broad program of work was initiated encompassing the
breadth of Egypt's history, including the prehistoric and pharaonic periods, as
well as Greco-Roman, Coptic, Islamic, and Jewish contributions. The results of the
program have been far-ranging and have yielded far greater successes than antic
ipated. Unprecedented in size and scale for an overseas conservation program, its
full implications arc only now being realized. This volume marks the beginning
a series of publications that represent the culmination of the program of work.
We hope that through them others may share in the academic and technical
results of these projects.
ARCE gratefully acknowledges this funding as a significant contribution by the
United States of America to Egypt's rich cultural history as embodied in its monu
ments. None of this work would have been accomplished without the extraordinary
interest and support given to ARCE by literally hundreds of people. To all of them we
owe our thanks and gratitude. While space does not permit mention of everyone to
whom thanks is owed, we wish to thank the principals involved for their assistance.
The Supreme Council of Antiquities, led by the Minister of Culture, His
Excellency Farouk Hosni, is our collaborator in conservation and over the years of
ARCE's conservation projects its many members have been crucial to their concep
tualization, conduct, and completions. They include successive Secretary Generals
of the SCA Abdel Halim Nur El-Din, Ali Hassan, Gaballa Ali Gaballa, and Zahi
Hawass. Also assisting were successive Directors of the Islamic and Coptic Sector
Fahmy Abdel Halim, Abdullah EI Attar, and Abdullah Kamel Musa and the Director
of Foreign Missions Department Magdi El Ghanlour
ix
ACKNDWLED6ME NTS
Habashi and Hoda Abdel Hamid; successive Chief Accountants Hussein Abdel
Raouf, Khaled El Saharty, and Ibrahim Ali Ibrahim; successive Assistant Grant
Administrators Barbara Breuning and Dahlia Elwy; Administrative Assistant
Mariam Sami; and successive Executive Secretaries Rania Sultan, Niveen Serry, and
Marwa Shebata.
To all mentioned above and those whose names are omitted due to lack of
space, thank you for all your assistance. This has truly been a ground-breaking,
far-reaching project that has been executed to everyone's credit. Your combined
efforts have contributed to the conservation of Egypt's cultural heritage. You have
made a difference.
The American Research Center in Egypt
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
xi
Preface
Work
I would
like to thank the Egyptian Antiquities Project of the American Research Center in Egypt for their
backing of the project and the Supreme Council of Antiquities for providing access to buildings and
archives in their care. I am also grateful to Dr. Horst Jarttz for allowing me to draw in the peace of the
Swiss Institute for Architectural and Archaeological Research in Cairo, Professor Andri Raymond for
checking data on unidentified akalas, and the staff of the Rare Books and Special Collections Library of
the American University in Cairo for their help. My deep appreciation is extended to Mohamed Abul
Amayem for sharing his unrivaled knowledge of Cairo with me, and Ahmad 'Ah Gab for his patient
assistance in surveying and drawing. Thanks are also due to the many tolerant cairenes who allowed me
to measure their homes and workshops. I am forever in debt to my wife, Sabina Ikram, for her unflagging
support over the many years it took to bring this work to fruition
I SeeMinistry of Culture, Arab Republic of Egypt, Historic Cairo (Cairo: Supreme Council of Antiquities,
2002). See also UNESCO, International Symposium on the Restoraftmn and Conservation of Islamic
Cairo (Paris, UNESCO World Heritage Centre Working Document, 2002), 2 n. 2
(http:lwww unesco.org/whe/ eventn/cairoo2c2.pdfl
xii
historic or architectural significance that are either not registered on the Index of
Monuments, or were registered subsequent to its publication in 1947 (a total of 136
buildings). For example, buildings such as the mosque of al-Shuhada (U6) are not
listed monuments but merit incorporation on the map by virtue of their historic and
architectural importance. Other structures, such as the mosque of al-Rifa'i (U103) or
the Islamic Museum (U46) have been registered only in the last fifty years but have
not been numbered in sequence with the 1947 Index. The numbering system
employed here uses the numbers of the 1947 Index for registered monuments still
standing, numbers in parentheses for deregistered or destroyed monuments, and a
separate U-prefix series of numbers for both unregistered buildings and buildings
registered after 1947. The choice of which of the multitude of unregistered buildings
to represent has been a personal one, and can by no means be considered definitive.
The decision of how best to represent this information was influenced in no
small part by the map of Rome published by Giambattista Nolli in 1748. This plan
replaced the traditional perspectival or iconographic view of the city with a sys
tematic ichnographic representation in which a clearly legible distinction is made
between public and private spaces for the first time. In Nolli's work, the plans of all
public buildings (such as churches) are shown so that they can be understood as
interior spaces in continuity with the streets and squares that figure the city. Private
space, within urban blocks, is shown with dense hatching that provides a strong
visual contrast (a 'ground' for the figuration) and analogue for 'closed' areas. Noll's
plan of Rome was the result of an enormous collaborative survey begun in 1736,
and it includes a series of indexes that refer to the various monuments, workshops,
vineyards, and gardens to be found within the city. The map that is published here
fortunately did not have to start from a tabula rasa, but I have employed a similar
graphic convention to distinguish between monuments, or significant structures,
and the remainder of the urban fabric. The absolute distinction between private and
public space on Nolli's plan has, however, been eroded in two ways. First: the
buildings that are shown include prominent examples of domestic architecture;
second: not all new public buildings (such as modern mosques, generally of little
areifoc tral interest) are shown. This is, nevertheless, the first time that Cairo has
been mapped in such a manner at a scale that permits the viewer not only to relate
individual monuments to their context, but also to appreciate how they relate to
one another in some detail.
2 For the complex process of registering Islamic Monuments in Cairo, see A. El Habashi and N. Warner,
"Recording the Monuments of Cairo: An Introduction and Overview" Annalts Islamologiques32 (1998),
81-99- The collection of data included here on deregistered monuments was assisted by a grant from the
Barakat Trust (UK).
PREFACE
xiii
It was always intended that the map should depict the current state of the urban
fabric. To do this required the assembly of base maps. These were the 1:5CC-scale
Cadastral Survey maps published by the Survey of Egypt in the 1930s, supple
mented by 1:1000-scale city maps from the 1912 and subsequent editions for
peripheral areas and information absent from the Cadastral Survey. As work pro
gressed, however, it became clear that many more changes in this fabric than
expected had occurred since the base maps were drawn. These alterations take the
form of new setbacks in building lines and isolated new urban units of a standard
pattern (mainly schools or residential blocks). The overall street pattern, however,
has remained relatively unaffected. Such changes were documented through a
walking survey and by reference to a 1:5000-scale series of maps of the city pro
duced in the 1970s. This exercise also demonstrated the value of simultaneously
documenting the earlier, now demolished, configuration of the city, which gave
meaning to otherwise unintelligible surviving fragments. The map therefore uses
the convention of a dotted line to represent vanished blocks and streets (as well as
individual plans of 'lost' buildings). The result is a kind of cartographic palimpsest
that can be read on two temporal levels: the city as it was at the turn of the twen
tieth century and as it is at the beginning of the twenty-first century.
The collection of planimetric data for all the buildings included on the map,
either through archival research or physical survey, has posed problems (and pro
vided pleasures) throughout the duration of the work. These data were generally the
ground plan of a structure, but in certain cases where an upper plan level provid
ed more information about the nature and extent of the building, the upper-level
plan was favored (as for example in the mosque of Sulayman Agha [no. 382] where
the principal prayer space is found on the first floor). Where published plans were
available, these were checked for accuracy and completeness and revised where
necessary. Plans from the archives of the Comite de Conservation des Monuments
de 1Art Arabe were similarly checked before inclusion on the map. A total of
approximately sixty sites (including some registered monuments) that lacked archi
tectural documentation were surveyed at their significant plan level, and the results
incorporated into the map. In the case of a few buildings, access for survey pur
poses was denied. The footprints of these structures are simply shown as a densely
hatched area-a convention shared with certain deregistered monuments that no
longer exist but whose former whereabouts can be established with precision.
Once the graphic material for the map had been assembled, the thirty-one individual
map sheets were drawn by hand. My preference for hand-drawings over computer
drawings is personal, and not entirely rational. It was dictated by a desire to create
a permanent and tangible product born of pen and ink, scalpel, and sweat. The
material advantage of digital drawings, manifest in their flexibility of scale, ease of
xiv
PREFACE
modification, and possibility of almost infinite adaptation were, for me, outweighed
by the aesthetic of the hand-drawing, which largely depends for its effect on a cer
tain visual irregularity; this in my mind mirrored the undoubted irregularity of
what I was striving to represent.
The map sheets are accompanied by a detailed text that gives descriptions, plan
sources, and bibliographies, to the extent available, for all the represented build
ings (identified by numbers). The latter includes both general information and
specific references to the Bulletins of the Comit6 de Conservation des Monuments
de lArt Arabe, as well as publications on more recent preservation initiatives, for
those interested in the conservation history of individual structures. Bibliographic
references are generally limited to secondary sources in European languages, how
ever, since the inclusion of references to kzitat literature, waqf documents, and the
corpus of Arabic scholarship fell outside the project's parameters. Since the map
was completed in March 2001, further publications have become available to the
scholar of Islamic architectural history, some of which have been included in the
bibliography. In an undertaking of this scale and complexity, however, there are
bound to be omissions and errors for which I alone am responsible.
The Monuments of HistoricCairo seeks to document those traces of the past that
are evident in the city's inherent structure and its architecture. 'Traces' is perhaps
the best translation of the Arabic word athar, which is most frequently used to
describe these fragments. Such an endeavor also has its own traces, and is part of
a broader representational history. To place this work in its context, therefore, I
have provided in the pages that follow a genealogy of the visual representation of
the city of Cairo and its buildings through views, maps, and architectural render
ings. These are the testament to encounters, spanning some six hundred years,
between the city and a plethora of travelers, artists, cartographers, architects, and
historians. Cities are in a state of continual evolution, however, and'so this geneal
ogy is also accompanied by a commentary on the main causes and effects of urban
change in the modern period, particularly with regard to the built heritage of the
city. Cairo is one of the great historic cities of the world, but it has often been neg
lected, perhaps because of its very size and complexity. I hope that this publication
will make the city more accessible to those seeking to comprehend its past, and will
enhance our present understanding of its morphology and architecture.
Nicholas Warner
PREFACE
Xv
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Introduction
CartographyArchitecture,
first developed. One aspect of this fascination has been the representation
ities
have been a source of fascination to their inhabitants since urban living
of their outward appearance, whether by verbal or visual means. Cairo has
proved no different in this respect from countless other cities throughout
the world, but has an added distinction in that it has for the past millennium been
regarded as one of the preeminent cities of the Muslim world. Within its dense and
complex matrix, the lives of sultans and slaves, scholars and soldiers, shaykhs and
merchants unfolded over the centuries. Their histories can still be deciphered in the
artifacts that survive them-perhaps most obviously in the buildings they con
structed and the chronicles they composed. Muslim historians such as al-Maqrizi
and lbi Zahir compiled urban topographic descriptions (of a genre known as khitat
after the word for 'pieces' or 'parts') that complemented the accounts of travelers
like Nasiri Khusraw and fbn Battuta. It fell, however, to a different tradition, which
developed in Europe, to qualify such texts with images, providing representations
of the city that are instantly appreciable to the eye.
The first of the European views of Cairo were derived from an aerial and entire
ly imaginary vantage point. Perhaps the earliest coherent representation appears in
the Tabulae Novae of the Florentine artist Pietro del Massalo's three manuscript
versions of Ptolemy's Geographia,lexecuted from ca. 1458 to ca. 1472 (pl. 1). Cairo
is part of a collection of encomiastic views that includes Jerusalem, Damascus,
Constantinople, Adrianople, Alexandria, and Rome, as well as other Italian cities.
I would like to thank the Barakat Trust (UK) for supporting the research undertaken for this introduction
and Jere Bacharach and Irene Bierman for commenting on its drafts,
1 Now in the Bibliothique Nationale (MS Lat 4002), and the Biblioteca Apostolhca Vaticana (Vat. Lat.
Lat. 277). The different versions have vanant details but share the same compositional
5699 and Uthb.
character See N. Miller, Mapping the City The Language and Cultureof Cartographyin the Renaissance
ilaondonjNew York: Contmuum, 2003).
4.
r
tfljpnadmn
Ogg
Near East that had Jerusalem as its primary focus (fig. 2) Breydenbach made his journey in 1483 in the company of an artist, Erhard Reuwich, who designed and subsequently printed the panorama. Given the obvious Christian interest in Cairo as a way
station on the Holy Family's flight into Egypt, the Christian pilgrimage sites of
Matarlya-the Pharaoh's Fig Tree, the Balsam Gardens, and the Chapel of the Virgin
2 Bernhard von Breydenbach, Peregintiones in Terrain Sanctan (Malnz: E. Reuwich, 1486). For the
significance of this map, see T. Campbell, The EarliestPrinted Maps, 1472-1500 (London: British
Library, 1987), 93-97. See also H.W. Davies, Bernhard von Breydenbach and His Journey to the THoly
Land, 1483-4 A Bibliography (London: J. E J. Leighton, 1911).
INTRODUCTION
the east of the city and the island of Roda in the Nile are clearly visible. Within the
urban conglomeration, some individual buildings stand out, such as the madrasa of
Sultan Hasan. Major thoroughfares are distinguished, as is both the ancient canal (the
Khalig al-Masri) and its more modern counterpart (the Khalig al-Nasiri) with their
multiple bridges. The disposition of the northern and eastern walls of the city and the
Citadel is indicative but topographically accurate. Pagano and Zorzi's view, however,
extends beyond a solely spatial representation of the city. Historical vignettes show
ing the arrival of the Ottoman army under Selim I at the gates of qairo in 1517 give
the work a specific temporal location as well. More prosaic quotidian scenes are also
included, such as the harvesting of dates. The view is supplemented by text in the
form of 'captions: as with Breydenbach's view, but with a much wider descriptive
intent. These captions were interpreted at length in an accompanying Latin booklets
aus den 16 Jahrhundert" MDAIK 32 (1976): 113-32, and B.Blanc, S. Denoix, J.-C. Garcia, and R.
Gordiam, "A propos de Ia caste du Caire de Matheo Pagano," Annales Islamologiques 17(1981): 203-85.
See also N. Warner, "The True Description of Camro":A Sixteenth-Century View from Venice (Oxford:
Arcadian Library-Oxforl University Press, forthcoming).
5 SeeI. Schulz, "Jacopo de' Barbari s View of Venice: Map Making, City Views, and Moralized Geography
before the Year 1500,' Art Blullein G0(1978): 425-74
6 Foi this text and its attribution, see A Codazzi, "Una 'descrizione' del Cairo di Gugliclmo Postel," in Studi
d, palcogralia, diplomahce, stora c arnldica in onort d, Cesore Manaresi (Milan: Ginffr, 1953), 169-206
CARTOGRAPHY
Scholars have disputed the precise date of Pagano's view, since it appears to con
tain elements of the city as it would have been at the end of the fifteenth century in
the time of Sultan Qaytbay. Following this contention, the vignettes of Scum's con
quest would have been added by Pagano to a preexisting 'original' view that has now
disappeared: a not unreasonable suggestion. It has also been argued that an apparent
topographical error in the placement of the aqueduct relative to the older nucleus of
Babylon-Old Cairo-Fustat (the aqueduct is shown running to the south rather than to
the north of this area) is in fact a correct representation of an aqueduct predating the
Multi-sheet woodblock
Kupfrrstichkabinett, 924-100.
Kupferstichkabinett, 924-100.
one that survives today. In the absence of any sound archaeological or textual evi
dence lbr the existence of the earlier aqueduct in the form shown on the Pagano view,
this hypothesis is less convincing. It is far more likely that the aqueduct shown is that
built by al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun in 1312-13, which was renovated and
extended by Sultan al-Ghuli in 1506-7, and that it is simply located in the wrong posi
tion 7 The possibility also exists that Pagano's view is a copy (with later additions) of
one of the now-vanished views of Cairo that were created for Francesco II Gonzaga's
palace in Gonzaga (1493-97) or the Palazzo di San Sebastiano in Mantua (1506-12).'
7 See K.A.C, Creswel, The Musim Architecture ofEgypt, 2- Ayyubrds and Early BarteMaaluks,
AD1171-1326 (Oxford Oxford University Press, 1959), 255-59.
8 M. Bourne, -Fmneesco 11Gonzaga and Maps as Palace Decoration in Renaissance Mantua,- hnago
Mundi 51 (1999): 51-58.
INTRDDUCTION
This is more plausible, although once again decisive documentary proof is lacking.
What distinguishes the view, regardless of its precise date of origin and authorship,
is the appearance of Cairo as a dense mass of buildings, including numerous
mosques, tombs, and palaces, and the relative accuracy of its represented topography.
Here for the first time was an image of an eastern city, conveying a sense of its scale
and complexity, to rival the historic centers of Europe. Although Pagano and Zorzi's
view of Cairo survives today in only two impressions, its influence was enormous.
Through numerous recensions in different formats (none as large as the original),
it remained in circulation for the subsequent two hundred years as the unchallenged
image of what was still, after the Ottoman conquest, the largest city in the Middle
East and North Africa.
A contrasting alternative depiction of Cairo, from a real rather than an imagi
nary viewpoint, did not appear in print until the eighteenth century. This view, real
ized from the Muqattam Hills that border the city to the east, was first recorded by
an Italian pilgrim named Brocardo in 1556. Brocardo even included himself in the
view, sketching the great city before him. The watercolor he produced is another
large panorama, stretching from Babylon in the south to Matariya in the north (pl.
2)." Although not signaled by annotation, many different urban components are
clearly visible in the view, situated within a landscape that is bisected by the River
Nile and sparsely scattered with palms and other trees. Babylon, the island of Roda,
the southern and eastern cemeteries, the Khalig al-Masri, Khalig al-Nasirl,
Azbakiya, Husayniya, Bulaq, and Matariya are all recognizable. Major thorough
fares crossing and encircling the city are also included, the most comprehensible of
which are the Qasaba, Shari' Saliba, the Darb al-Ahmar, the routes through the
cemeteries, and the road to Bulaq from the Bab al-Bahr. Many individual buildings
in the view, such as the Niometer, the aqueduct (shown here in its correct position)
and pumping station, the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, the mosques of al-Azhar and
Ibn Tulun, and the city gates and walls can also be identified by virtue of their
physiognomy and location. In general, courtyard mosques seem to be represented
as open squares with minarets of the tiered, Mamluk, variety.
The vantage point of the Muqattam Hills used by Brocardo was also employed in
the early eighteenth century by the French Jesuit father Claude Sicard in his view of
9 The most significant of these, dating from the sixteenth century, are: Ferrando Bertellh, Cwuitation aliquot
;nszgniorum et locormnm nnartornrn erane delincatio.Drsegai, alcsnc pif, fflusfr citti efortezze del
nondo, FerrandoBertellifornis (Venice, 1568?); Georg Braun and Frans logenberg, Civitates Oris
Terratum, vol. 1, pl. 55 (Cologne, 1572); Sebastia Munster, Cosinograph/a(Basel, 1574); Matteo Florim,
Cairns, quate olim Babylon; Aegypts marima urbs (Siena?, 1590')
10 The only study thus far is that of L. Micar, "It Cairo nell 'Chorographia' di Pellegrino Brocaidi
(1556)," nl11 mando islamico: Inmagnt e irecthe, Storia della citth 46 (Milan, Electa: 1989]: 7-18.
11 Archivio di Stato di Torino, Cate topografiche efortificazioni, vol. 2 of 5 (J.I.4 folio 10).
INTRODUCTION
the city. Sicard's rendering is cruder than Brocardo's, and less informative (pl. 3).
Babylon, the nucleus of the city of al-Qahira, Bulaq, and Matariya are shown, and a
few individual structures can be distinguished, such as the obelisk at Matariya, the
Citadel, the aqueduct and pumping station, the Nilometer, and the fortress of Babylon.
The rendering of mosques and minarets remains schematic. Although Sicard's
view of Cairo, which survives in two manuscript copies," remained unpublished (as
4. Claude-Louis Founnont,
Paren
Topograpiique
Carte
des p/aim's
pcrspecrire
Pig.
dHeliopolis et d Alnphis,
engraving,
1754. Copper
d ttldimensions
33.3 x 52 ema.
Rar Books and Special
Collections Library, the
American University in Cairo.
did Brocardo's), an imitation of it was printed in 1754 by another French Jesuit who
had spent time in Egypt: Claude-Louis Fourmont. His Carte Topographique vue en
perspective des plaines d'H6liopolis et de Memphis is a copper engraving folded
within his book on Cairo (fig. 4)." Despite its obvious antiquarian bias, this view pro
vides a clear image of a contemporary Cairo that had shrunk in physical extent since
the sixteenth century. A numbered key that accompanies the view lists seventy-two
separate elements of the city, ranging from individual buildings to public spaces.
Sedice
12Plan topographique des environs du Calmrr Ia moontagne des modrns au (Fire,
de la Marine, atlas 64, carne 13; Carte a ogrophe da 'airs, 17)5, BibliotiqCe NationalT,
Cd5132.
des Canp Plans Rti
I i CAI. Fouront. Description.hlsrorique a gographique des pta/anr. diiupalisod dHMemphoo(Part
1Ce4).
CARTOGRAPHY
uistorique
i..Cu
gparmeinut
ec
ee
Mp
dtcaeils,
All of the views of Cairo described thus far are precisely that: views. They repre
sent the city on a tilted ground plane, without the foreshortening demanded by the
laws of perspective. This was done deliberately in order to afford the viewer a glimpse
of the interior of the city with its principal streets and to bring more distant objects
into focus. Although each view attests to a good general topographic understanding
of the city and its salient architectural features, none can be considered to be a map
in the ichnographic tradition." One last image in this category deserves mention, as it
stems from the Ottoman, rather than European, tradition of representing the city. This
is the group of views of Cairo that are to be found in the various surviving manuscripts
of the Kitab i Bahriye, or 'Book of Maritime Matters' first composed by the Ottoman
admiral Firi Reis in 1521. The Kitab i Bahriye, based in part on Italian and Spanish
portolan charts, was intended primarily to provide mariners with useful information
for the navigation of the Mediterranean. It also contains bird's-eye views of a number
of ports around the Mediterranean and a chart of the Nile extending as far south as
Cairo, which was still at the time an important entrep6t. Cairo was familiar territory to
Piri Reis, since he had sailed up the river with the Ottoman fleet to assist in Selim 's
attack on the capital of Egypt in 1517. Some thirty-eight extant manuscripts of Piri
Reis's work survive, spanning three centuries of production, and they present at least
two different views of Cairo with variant details.5 One version shows a rambling
collection of pitch-roofed buildings without any enclosure (pl. 4); the other-a more
elaborated image devised by book illustrators-shows the city enclosed by walls (pl. 5).
In the first version, Cairo's mosques are in the Ottoman style, with characteristic
Ottoman minarets, while the second portrays them more accurately in tiered, Mamluk
style. Both versions view the city from the north and have details in common with
contemporary European views, such as the aqueduct and its pumping station, the
Khalig al-Masti, the Citadel, Bulaq, and the Muqattam Hills. Some elements, however,
such as the mausoleum of Imam Shafti in the southern cemetery (with its unmis
takable boat-shaped finial), are not to lie found among the Western representations.
Also distinctive is the collection of different Nile boats that decorate the landscape
together with palm trees. Pir Reis's manuscript views of Cairo seem to have remained
in the hands of mariners or connoisseurs of book illumination and therefore were
less influential than the more widely distributed European printed images of the city.
14 Ste JA. Pinto, "Orgins and Development of the ichnographic City Plan," Journal of the Society of
Architectural Historians 35 (19781: 35-50.
15 For the most complete survey of the activities of Pin Res, seeS. Sourk, 'Islamic Charting in the Mediter
ranean," in J.B. Harley and D,Woodward, The Histny of Cartngraphy, 2 vols in 3 (Chicago: University of
Chicago Press, 1987-94), vol. 2. book 2: Cartographyin re Traditional East and Southeast Asian Societis
11994), 265-79. See also S. Soucek, Pir Reis and Turkish Mapmaking after Columbus: The Khalifi
PortolanAtlas. (Lonrdon: Noar Foundation-AzImuth Editions-Oxford University Press, 1996), 149-58.
INTRODUCTION
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Plate 1. Cairus, from the Tabulac Novae of Pietro del Massalo's
manuscript of the Geographia ofPtolemy, ca. 1470. Pigment with
gilding on vellum, 60 x 40 cm. DJ6partement des Manuscrits,
Biblicthique Nationale, Paris, Ms Lat. 4802, fol. 135v.
Left:
Plate 2. Top left: Pellegrino Brocardo, View of Cairo, 1556 (detail),
16 R. Pococke, A Description of The East, And Some other Countries, Volume the First: Observations an
Egypt (London: W. Boyer, 1743), pl. 7.
CARTOGRAPHY
projection of buildings is replaced with a horizontally scaled plan (fig, 5). Pococke
calls it a "Chorograph"-almost certainly a deliberate antiquarian echo of Ptolemy's
distinction between chorography and geography. The settlements of Old Cairo, Giza,
and Bulaq are all included, together with the Citadel and the aqueduct, as well as
features such as the Muqattam Hills and the Khalig al-Masri.
Another traveler with scientific interests was in Egypt at the same time as
Pococke: the Danish naval captain, Frederik Norden. Like Pococke, Norden was
more interested in Egypt's pharaonic past than its Islamic remains, but unlike his
contemporary. Norden never lived to see the publication of his Travels in Egypt and
Naba. This finally appeared in Danish in 1755, and it was swiftly followed by
French and English editions. 'Although Norden failed to document the city of Cairo
with a map, he did, however, produce a plan of the island of Rodall and its environs
while convalescing in Cairo for four months (fig. 6). This presents the gardens of
Roda in great detail, but little else, and suggests that Norden did not stray too far
from the Nile during his illness. One small detail is of greater interest: a plan of the
mouth of the Khalig al-Masri as it was arranged for the annual 'Cutting of the
Canal' ceremony-the breaching of the dike that was built annually across the canal
that led into the city, allowing the Nile's flood waters to flow along its course and
fill the urban lakes."
More informative than the maps of either Pococke or Norden was that produced
by another Dane: Carsten Niebuhr. Niebuhr was a member, and the only survivor,
of an expedition that left Copenhagen in 1761 under royal patronage with the goal
of carrying out a scientific exploration of Egypt, Arabia, and Syria. His plan of
Cairo was ultimately published in 1774 as a copper engraving. Titled "Ichno
graphic Plan of the City of Cairo and the Towns of Bulaq, Masr al-'Atika, and
Giza,"" the map has two scales and a north-point upon it (fig. 7). East is shown at
the top and the Nile is at the botitom, an orientation shared by the Pagano view.
The relative positions of all settlements are given, as are cemeteries and hills.
17 Travels in Egypt and Nubia by Frederick Lewis Nordern .. S. Captain of the Danish Navy. Translated
from the Original Published by connand of his Majesty the King of Den mark. And enlarged witk obser
variansfrom the ancient and modem authors, that have written on the Antiquities ofIEgyp, by Dr.
Peter Templeiman in Two Volumes, 2 vois. (London: Davis a Rcymens, 1757). The plates used in this
edition ar the same as those in the contemporary French edition,
18 Nordet, Travels in Egypt and Nubia, vol 1, pl. 24.
19 The 'Well of.Joseph' in the Citadel, which Norde, describes in detail, is marked in error aslying to the
south of the aqueduct,
20 C. Niebuhr, Reisebeschreibung nach Arabien and andernamliegenden Landerns. 2 vols. (Coperhagen:
Nicolaus MIler, 1774-78). The French edition appeared almost simultaneously: Descption de 'Arabie;
fake sur des observations propres et des airs reacillis dans les lieur moims per corsten Viebuhr,
3 vols. (Amsterdam and Utrecht: S.Y. Batlde RA
J. van Schoonhoven, 1774-80).
21 Niebauhr. Description de IFArabie. "tJrbis Kabira ne non oppidonom Rulhk, Masr el Atk e Dsilse
Ichnographla,' p. 13.TIis was accompanied by a long explanatory text titled "Description des Villes de
Kihira, Bulk, Mast el Atik et Dsjise,' 86- l0.
10
INTRODUCTION
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The key map clearly shows the different nuclei of the city as they were related to
the River Nile when the water level was at its lowest. Cairo is shown with the lakes
of Azbakiya and Birkat al-Fil within it, as are Bulaq, Old Cairo and Babylon, Imbaba,
and Giza. Islands and sandbanks within the river are also distinguished. The more
detailed maps of Cairo, Bulaq, and Old Cairo-Roda-Giza have numerous features
worthy of remark, of which a few will be highlighted here. The depiction of the port
of Bulaq shows a multitude of riverside warehouses backed up by a tier of wikalas
(urban caravanserai), as well as a straight, French-built, tree-lined avenue leading
east to Cairo. This was the first time that a specific map had been drawn of this area,
which was obviously quite a sizable town independent of, though related to, the
main city." The map of Old Cairo, Roda, and Giza shows the latter as a separately
walled precinct connected to Roda by a pontoon bridge. The fortress of Babylon with
its surviving Roman towers can also be discerned on this map.
In order to execute the detailed map of Cairo, which was the most complex
part of the survey, the surveyors established a base line measured by chain, and
triangulated 54 points: mosque minarets or positions located on high ground?
The city was then divided into eight distinct areas; their divisions are shown on
the map and follow major arteries or minaret triangulation points. The latter
provided the essential references for the subsequent street-by-street chain sur
vey. This map of Cairo constitutes the first systematic record of the system of
haras that made up the fabric of the city, the first precise depiction of the extent
of the fortifications of the city and the Citadel, and the most detailed image of
23 Description defligypte, a reruril des observations r de, rcheries qui ont Wtrfaites
enEgypre
pendant lerpldithon de A4
rmir rancaisepublik par leeordres de so Majeste 'Emperewr Napoleon Ic
24
25
26
27
Grand. (Paris; Imprimeric Inptiale, 1809-22). For an analysis of the cariographic output of the French
Expedition, see G. Alleame, "Enter linventaire do ioeitoire ti I consuction de I meniire: Lneuvre
eartegraphiqie de I'expedwition dfgypte,' in P.Bret. ed.,L'Epition d'tgypte: Une enterprise des
Luiers. 1798-180), Acres du colloque international organise par IAcadrnoirdes inscriplions or
belies-Ililres it lAcadimic dessoinces, soas les auspices de Ilestitrrde France er s Musium national
d'histairc natreelle. 8-10 ujuin1998 (Paris: Technique et Documentation: 19991,279-96.
The general plan is drawn at scale of appeoxinately 1:20,000: the detailed plans at a scale of approxi
miately 1.5000,
The only study of this area to date is N. Hanna, An Urban Histon qf Bulaq in the Mfodtuk and Otroman
Periods, Cahirs desAnnanes Islamelgiques 3 (cirs: IFAO, 9til)
The arca of the fortress lurther elaborated can also be seen in the more detailed plan that accompanies
a perspective view in the Description dr lEgypte, Anuiquiuli V, pl. 20.
See Canvas trigonomoirique du Kalre, 1:2.500, Description de iEgypte, Atin
Moderne II, pt. 2, 58.
14
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INTRODUCTION
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how the urban mass was situated within the surrounding landscape. The urban
interventions that were made by the French during their short stay in Egypt were also
faithfully recorded, such as the regularization of the perimeter of the lake of Azbakiya
and a street cut through from Azbakiya to the Khalig al-Masri (the beginnings of
Shari' al-Muski). The three detailed maps in the series included numerical keys for
buildings as well as for streets, squares, and other sites of importance. These were list
ed by name in Arabic with a transliteration in the accompanying text volume." A
search for the exact location of any numbered structure on the map was facilitated
by the use of a grid.
Although the material for the
Description maps was collected in the
years 1798-1800, the maps them
selves remained unpublished until
1809, partly because of the magnitude
of the task of printing the entire opus,
which took twenty years to complete.
These maps are a testament not only
to the efforts of those who surveyed
and drew them, but also to the skill of
the engravers who scaled down the
original drawings and prepared them
for print. A convention of closely
spaced diagonal hatched lines was
used to represent built-up areas.
Within this matrix, on the detailed
Opposite:
Fig. 11h. Detail of the Plan
particuler de la ville at
actual size.
28 See Description de Itgypre, Eta! Moderne II, pt. 2. 589-657 (407 sites in Cairo and l05 in the Cihadell;
755-61 (269 sites in Bulaqh 762-63 (52 sites in Old Cairo).
29 These include the mosques of al-Zahir Baybars, al-Hakim, al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh, and Ibn Tulun. the
funerary complex of Oawsun (inthe southern cemetery], and the Hall of Justice and mosque at al-Nasit
Muhammad (in the Citadel).
16
INTPODUCTION
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presence of Europeans in Egypt. One agent of that change was a French engineer,
Pierre-Louis Grand, in the employ of Khedive Ismail, who in 1874 assembled the first
specialized map of the city's core that presented significant urban monuments (all
religious) in detail. Grand's map was printed in color at a scale of 1:4000 on four sheets
(pl. 6). It showed Cairo not simply as it was but as it was intended to be after new
avenues were cut through the fabric of the old city; most of these planned projects were
never executed?0o The most important (in historic or aesthetic terms) Islamic, Christian,
and Jewish religious monuments of the city were differentiated by coloring and
notation (numbers for the mosques, letters for churches and synagogues). Other public
buildings were named directly on the map. The significance of Grand's map for the
history of recording the monuments of the city.was confirmed by its rapid adoption as
a reference by the Comite de Conservation des Monuments de fArt Arabc."
The Comit6 de Conservation des Monuments de fArt Arabe, henceforth referred to as
the Comit6, played a crucial role in the documentation and preservation of the
monuments of Cairo. Their work touched on many aspects of the development of the
historic city, and indeed was vital in the development of the very concept of a historic
city. The Comiti was founded in December 1881, by decree of Khedive Tawfiq, as a body
within the Ministry of Endowments (wizaratal-awqaj} responsible for 'Arab Monuments:
One of the tasks with which this organization was charged was drawing up a complete
inventory of these monuments (which ultimately was extended to include Coptic sites
as well) in Egypt. The Comitt remained active until 1953, when it was subsumed into
the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation (now the Supreme Council of Antiquities), which
is today responsible for all the monuments of Egypt, regardless of period.
In purely cartographic terms, the legacy of the Comite is evident in two maps of
Cairo, dated 1924 and 1950, published at a scale of 1:5000. These maps were cross
referenced to expanding indexes of monuments that had been registered as antiquities
since the organization came into existence. The 1924 map was produced by the Survey
of Egypt on behalf of the Comite and is the first large-scale map of Cairo's
'Mohammedan Monuments' in English (pl. 7). The map, comprising two sheets, uses
color to differentiate buildings by period: red for Fatimid, dark brown for Ayyubid, and
blue for Mamluk. No Ottoman monuments ar numbered, although many are indicat
ed by name and shown in a darker brown than the surrounding urban fabric. An
30 SeeJ.L. Abu-1ughod, Cairo: 1001 Years of the Cy Vicorious [Princeton: Princeton University Press,
1971), Ill, pl. 13.
31 SeeA. E1-abashi and N. Warner, "Recording the Monuments of Cairo: An Introduction and Overview"
Anmales 1slamologiques 32 (1998): 81-99.
32 K.A.C. Cresweil, 'A Brief Chronology of the Muhanmadan Monumenis of Egpi to Al) 1517," BIFAC 16
(1919): 39-164.
18
INTRODUCTION
far as the periphery of the city is concerned, the map does not extend as far south
as Old Cairo, and the eastern and southern cemeteries are included as two separate
inserts, unlike the subsequent map of 1950 (pl, 8). This latter map, which is still
available today in its Arabic impression (though both English and Arabic versions
were initially printed), is the current standard reference for the location and iden
tification of all the Islamic monuments of Cairo. It follows the basic design of its
predecessor, although for the first time registered buildings from the Ottoman period
were numbered, and the structures of other periods were more precisely defined.
The map is linked to numerical, chronological, and alphabetical indexes that were
published separately in 1947.
Grand's map, and the maps of Mohammedan Monuments that followed, were
manifestations of a late nineteenth-century trend toward the production of maps
with a more specialized purpose. Such maps were also produced to fulfill demands
other than the purely historical or architectural. Commercial interests were respon
sible for one of the most remarkable series of maps of the city's interior: the collec
tion of fire insurance plans produced by the English company of Charles Goad in
19052 The Goad plans were designed for insurance companies to assess risk on
property, and the information about these buildings was therefore provided at a large
scale (the metric equivalent of 1:600), using color codes for building types and an
exacting system of annotation that gave details of the construction of each structure
(pl. 9). Separate indexes were drawn up for street names, block numbers, buildings
by type, and companies, providing an invaluable record of the city and urban land
use at the turn of the century. Although Goad planned to include most of the area
of the historic city in his coverage, the execution of these plans was eventually lim
ited to the newly built 'European-style' portion of the city (called Ismai'liya after
Khedive Ismail), and the area along Shari' Muski extending east to Shari' Mu'izz. In
the absence of sufficient commercial interest, Goad's maps of Cairo were never
updated as they were for Alexandria-the only other city in Egypt for which Goad
provided insurance coverage. This process involved the periodic recall of map sheets
from subscribing insurance companies and the pasting of revision slips over areas
on the map that had undergone significant rebuilding or change of use.
In the twentieth century, the most widely distributed plans of cities in Egypt were
those produced by the Survey of Egypt." First established in 1898 during the British
33 SeeN. Warner, 'Charles Goad and the Fire Insurance Plans of Egypt, 1898-1910" in M. Volait, ed.,Le
Caire-Aleradrie: Architectrars sropdennes, 1850-1950, Etudes Urbaines 5 [Cairo IFAO, 2001),
219-31.
34 For primary sources on the Survey of Egypt, ee IEG.Lyons, The Cadasoral Survey of Egypt, 1892-1907
(Caim: National Printing Department, 1908), and G.W. Murray, The Sany of Egypt, 1898-1948,
Survey Department Paper 50 (Cairo; Ministry of Finance-Survey of Egypt, 1950).
CARTOGRAPHY
19
Protectorate as part of the Ministry of Public Works, the Survey of Egypt carried out
topographical and cadastral surveys of Calm, which were published initially at scales
of 1:10,000, 1:5000, and 1:2000. '*The first edition of a map series at a scale of 1:1000
(in color, on 310 sheets) appeared in 1912 (pl. 10 and fig. 12). These are tremendously
valuable for any study of the urban development of the city. since they define its built
area more precisely than ever before and name all public buildings and streets in
English and Arabie. The subsequent editions increased the overall geographic coverage
of the city but were printed in black and while, thereby reducing their legibility. The
1924 and 1948 Comite Maps of Mohammedan Monuments were divided into squares
that correlate directly with this 1:1000 series and were furthermore keyed to this set
of maps by square reference. From 1935 onward," these maps were superseded by
even more detailed plans of individual blocks of the city showing pilt outlines and
building footprints, which were printed in black and white at a scale of 1:500: the
famous Cadastral Survey, continually extended until 1960, by which time a total of
1,334 individual map sheets had been amassed (pL. II and fig. 13). These maps have
yet to be surpassed in the level of detailed information that is inscribed upon them.
Since they were not updated after production ceased in 1960, however, they are no
longer a true reflection of the condition of the built fabric of the city.
This brief survey has attempted to summarize the cartographic sources that exist
for the study of Historic Cairo. These sources span half a millennium, and they
demonstrate the remarkable extent to which the city's urban configuration has
resisted change, at least as far as its core is concerned. The city presented by
Pagano in his bird's-eye view of 1549 has the same essential structure that was
surveyed by the French in 1789 and that is presented in this publication (fig. 141.
In the sixteenth century, Pagano and Brucardo used different viewpoints in their
depictions of the city-the first imaginary and the second real-yet each provides
a complementary vision of its scale and density. The shift from oblique to planar
representations was accomplished by the end of the eighteenth century. Since then,
more detailed maps have served an increasingly diverse group of users ranging
from architectural historians to insurance assessors and government tax inspectors,
each of whom had specialist needs. The direct result of this cartographic activity
is that the city of Cairo today has a remarkably rich and varied corpus of material
with which to docurnent urban change.
35 For a comprehensive account of tne Survey of Egyp, or the Egyption Survey Authority asit became
in 1971, and more recenl
Arnaui,
d information no. 16, Observui,.re urbuiIndu Caire contemporain. (Cairo: CTEDt,19891 esp. 19-21
and 54-58.
36 Murray Survey tf Egypt, 28.
20
t'NTRODUCTION
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traditions of architectural representation In the Muslim world, see R. noted. "Text, Plan and
Building: On the Transmission ofArchitecuoral Knowledge," in M. cvienko. ed..Theories and Principles
of Design in the Architecture qf Islamic Societies. (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1988)
1- 12 See also G. Necipoglu Kafadar, "Plrts and Models in Fifteenth- and Sixteenth-Century Ottoman
Architectural Practice." Journal of te Societe
fArcritectura tHstorians 45 (198G): 224-43.
38 For art, see .L Raby, Venice, tirer and the oriental Made, Hins Huth Memorial Studies I [London:
Islamic Art Publications, 92). For archilecture, see ). Ioward, Venice and the East: The Impact of
the Islamic World on Venetian Archirecturr, I170- f500 (New Haen and London: Yale University
37 For
Press, 2000). For material culture, see R.E. Mack, Thazaar to Piazza:
1.300-160(
Islamic
ARCIITECTURE
23
hamme, al-Tenbali
Mosque of el-Ghamri
Mosque of al-Hakim / Bobal-Futuh / Babal-Nasr
Wikaeat Dhulfiqor
Boyn al-Qasrayn: complexes of Soh Negm al-Din Ayyub,
Galowun, al-Nair Muhammad, Barquq. and madrsu of
al-Zahir Baybars
6 Khon ol-Khalilli / Mosque of Saivyidna Husayn
7 Mosque of al-Athar / Wikolor Gaytbay
8 Complex of al-Ghuri
9 Mosque of Gadi Yahya I Bayt al-Mufti
10 Bab Zuwaya / Mosque of al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh
11 Mus&e de]'Art Arabe / Mosque of Yusuf Aghs al-Hin
12 Sobil-kuttab of lbrahim Beyal-Kabir
13 Mosque of Gawson
14 Taklyyot al-Mahmudiyya
15 Darb al-Ahmar: Mosques of al-Maridani, Aqsunqur,
Khayrtak, and palace of al-Rare,
16 Bimoriston of al-Mu'ayyad I mosque of al-Sukkari
al-Kabit (Mamluk Hall of Justice)
17 Bir Yusuf arid the
of Sultan Hasan / mosque of al-Rifa'i
18 Moadrose
19 Tombof Shagarat al-Dur / mosque of Saida Sukayna
20 Mosque of Sayyida Ayesha
21 Mosque of Sayyida Nafisa
22 Mosque of Ibr Tulun: complex of
Sarghatmish / houses of Bayt al-Kritliy
and Arna bint Salim
23 Mosque of Sayyida Zaynab
24 Mosque of al-Zahir Baybars
1
2
3
4
5
24
[wan
A Husaynive
B Northern walls
C Eastern walls
D Birkat al-Azbakiya
E Birkat al-Fil
I F The Citadel
G urnayla f Garamidan
Ht Khalila
J Galat al-Kabsh
K Khalig al-Mast
L Khalig al-Nasiri
L
1C
12
13
15
F
17
I21
one kilometerH
than structures that are embedded within the city's streets. The depiction of these
buildings, however, is stylized and provides only a schematic architectural under
standing (which, given their scale, is impressive enough). Thus, for example, in
Pagano and Zorzi's view of Cairo (dated to 1549) we can distinguish the northern
and eastern walls of the city built during the Fatimid and
Ayyubid periods." From the Mamluk era, the twin minarets
above the Bab Zuwayla, the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, and the
complex of Yashbak on the northeastern side of the city are all
discernible.
-'C
.mrZZ'At
39 N. Warner,
The Fatimid and Ayyubid Easten Walls of Cairo: Missing Fragments," Annales
Egypt is included in volume 2.Another contemporary rendering or the Well of Joseph and a view of
the aqueduct can be found in the Alias Historique ou nouvelle introduction 4 t-istaire, 4 in
Chronoalogir F a la GiographieAncirne et Moderne: reprsente dons de Nouvelles Cones, etc. etc.
Tome 6 qui comprend IAfique 8 lAmerique Septentrianale EtMerdionate (Amsterdam: Chez tlHonor
ft Chittelain Libraires, 1719), vol. 6, 21.
ARCHITECTURE
25
Ij
41i
of the Great Pyramid of Giza. Among them, too, is a representation of the proces
sion of the mahmal, when the annual pilgrimage to Mecca left Cairo accompanying
a camel that bore two copies of the Quran under a tentlike canopy upon its back. This
demonstrates an interest in recording not only the built environment of Cairo but the
events that took place within the city as well. The obelisk of Matariya and the
Nilometer also feature in a memoir compiled by Benoit de Maillet, the French consul
in Egypt from 1692 to 1708, which was published in 1735." De Maillet's engraving
of the interior of the Nilometer interestingly shows it at the time of full flood with
measurements being taken (fig. 19). The fascination of the Nilometer, whether owing
to its form or its purpose, was great among visitors, and further efforts to record its
26
INTRO DU CTI ON
&
where the Ottoman governor sat, looking down on the dike as it was breached.
Niebuhr provides only one architectural illustration: a perspective sketch of the Bab
al-Futuh (fig. 22).4
ARCHITECTURE
27
Pococke, Norden, and Niebuhr were not, in the first place, artists, and the quality
of their images was soon to be far surpassed by subsequent publications. Among
these, one unfinished project by the French painter Louis Fran;ois Cassas
(1756-1827) stands out. This was to be a precursor to the Description in its ambition:
the Voyage Pittoresque de la Syrie, de la Phoenicie, de la Palarstine,et de Ia Basse
Egypte.- Cassas's avowed intention was to combine the descriptive powers of the
word with images. His encyclopedic proposal divided the subject matter into three
volumes in folio format, illustrated with more than three hundred plates and ample
scholarly texts; Egypt was to be included in the third volume. A lack of subscriptions
forced the project's cancellation, but not before a preliminary 'sample' volume had
been produced. This included a group of seven perspective views (and one plan) of
different sites in Cairo: the Bayn al-Qasrayn in front of the mausoleum of
Qalawun, two views of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan (the first printed images of
the madrasa), a plan of the Diwan of Joseph,' the obelisk of Matariya, an exterior
view of the Bab al-Futuh, and an unidentified street that provides the backdrop
for a scene showing the pasha's ceremonial entrance into Cairo." The significance
of this collection of views is that it includes, for the first time, an accurately
49 Its full title: Voyage Pittoresque de to Syrie, de Ia Phocniei, deta Palaestin, et de fa Basse Egypte:
Ouvrage divist en trais coumnies, ontenant eniron trais centtronet planches, gmentes sur les dessins
c sous in direction du C.en CASSA S,peintre, In des artintes employds par Panue do Voyage de I
ricer; un discours prtininaire poorcheque olune, par le C. en VOLNEY, ancmnbre de I'nstitut
national, auteur Sn Voyage en Syrie; un ter redigie par ts CC. FI.G. La Porte-du Theil, memibre
de 17nstitut retdo Conservatire dr la Bihliokthque nationatc; poor la partic historique et in relation du
Voyage: JG. Legrand, architecte, de ia Societe lbre des sciences, !etires et arts de Paris; pour In portie
historiqu et descriptierdr farchitetur; L. Lanyls, membre deI Institut, et do Conservotoirede I
Bibliothique artionate,pmfesseun de Person a Vicate speciate des fangues orientales iantes;poor (a
panic denLeagues et des inscriptions orientales (Paris: Imprimeri de Ia Ripublique, An VII [1798-99])
50 Respectively, pih. 6, 1,b5,66, 69, 74, 76, and 8l
51 See the exhibition catalogue, Louis Frangois Cassas, 1756-1827: Densnateur-Voyager/Im Bama der
Sphinx: Finfraoisischer Zeichner reist noch Italien ndn
in den Orient (Mainz am Rhein: Veriag
Philipp von Zahrn, 1994)
28
INTRODUCTION
Aeo
iir
. A4
Ba)4ueA.
,rA
Khir,.
Fig. 23. Frederik Norden, Ceremonie praliquee chaque Annee 4 (occasion do Coupment de la
Digue pour faire career le Nil au Grand Coyre, rendered 1757. Copper engraving, 20.7 x 39.8 cm.
Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairn.
It was another visitor, Luigi Mayer, who had the distinction of being the first
artist to bring color to representations of Cairo. In 1792, Mayer traveled to the Near
East in the entourage of Sir Robert Ainslie, the British ambassador to the Sublime
Porte. His book of lithographs, published with accompanying texts in 1801. con
tained eight perspective views of individual sites in Cairo." They comprise a "View
of the Nilometer," the "Gate of Grand Cairo" (the Bab al-Nasr), the "Principal Square
in Grand Cairo, with Murad Bey's Palace" (the Qaramidan) (pl. 12), "The Mosque of
the Four Hundred Pillars" (the mosque of 'Amr), the "Lovers' Fountain,"" "Ruins in
the Castle of Cairo," and "Joseph's Hall" (the Hall of Justice). Of these, the view of
the Qaramidan is particularly significant, since it is one of the sole surviving rep
resentations of what the Mamluk hippodrome may have looked like after it had
been enclosed by buildings. The representation of the ruined Hall of Justice also
52 Views in Egypr from the Original Drawings in the Possession of Sir Robert Ainslie, taken during his
Embassy to Constantinople by Luigi Mayer: Engraved by and under he Direction ofThomas Milton
With Historical Observations, and Incidental lllsfrations of the Manners and Customs of the Natives of
that Country (London: Thomas Benty, 1801).
53 This was a basalt sarcophagus (now in the British Museum) located next to a mosque in the area of
Cairo known asHawd al-Marsud. SeeRobert Hay. fllustrations ofcairo (London: Tilt R Bogue, 1840.
descriptive notice for p. 6.
30
INTRODUCTION
went beyond anything hitherto published, giving a good impression of the scale of
this vast, now-demolished, structure.
The work of Cassas and Mayer was not, however, above a certain stylistic exag
geration, evident in the almost mannerist elongation of architectural elements such
as arches and minarets. A more prosaic style of rendering was employed by the
third major artist to visit Cairo at the close of the eighteenth century in the com
pany of Napoleon's savants: Dominique Vivant Denan. Denon was resolutely unim
pressed by what he saw of the city;
Je voyois effectivement une inombrable population, de longs
espaces Atraverser, mais pas une belle rue, pas un beau monument:
une seule place vaste, mais qui a Fair d'un champ.{... } [Aju reste,
ces edifices portent les characters de tout ce que ilu'ont badi les
Musulmans dans cette rigion, c'est a dire qu'ils offrent un melange
de magnificence, de misere, et d'ignorance."
The illustrations Denon provided for his book on Egypt for most part reflect this low
opinion: only one fine view of the lake of Azbakiya at night (fig. 25) conveys any
feeling for the spirit of the place. The cemeteries, a view of Bulaq with the mosque
of Sinan, a distant exterior view of the Nilometer, and views of the aqueduct pro
vide information about the appearance of the city's peripheries, but material from
the interior, such as street scenes or major monuments, is completely absent. This
may well be the result of a justifiable nervousness on the part of the artist at a time
when hostile locals had just assassinated Jean-Baptiste Kl6ber and killed four col
leagues from the Commission des Arts." Nonethleless, Denon's Voyage dons I Basse
et la Haute Agypte pendant Its campagnes du Gentral Bonaparte, first published in
1802, ran to over forty editions, adaptations, and translations." The significance of
this publication, aside from its wide distribution, inheres in the fact that it predated
the publication of the Descriptionby more than a decade.
A whole team of trained architects and surveyors, rather than any one individual,
made possible the compilation of the far more sophisticated and varied record of
the architectural remains of Cairo found in the Description dr i'Agypte. Their legacy
comprises detailed architectural drawings (including plans, sections, elevations, and
54 Vivant Denon, Voyage daes la Basse ella Haute tgypte pendant ls, Campagnes du Gntral Bonaparte
(Paris; P. Didot lAine, 1802], vol. 1, 63 and 65.
55 Denon, Voyage dan la Bsse e ta Haute Agypte, vol. 1, 56-67. Denon included only eleven views of
Cairo in his work.
56 J.-E. Goby, Cahlers dHistaire Egyptenne, series 4, fast. 5-6 (Cairo: tditions des Cahiers d'Histoirc
Egyptienne, 1952), 290-316.
ARCHITECTURE
31
perspectives grouped together for the first time)" of some of Cairo's greatest buildings:
the mosque of nn Tulun, the madrasa of Sultan Hasan, the Nilometer, the intake tower
of the aqueduct built by Sultan al-Ghuri, the mosque of al-Hakim, the mosque of
al-Zahir Baybars, and the mosque of Sinan." Among military constructions, the Bab
al-Futuh, the Bab al-Nasr, and the Citadel are well represented. Domestic architecture
is documented in the houses of AlfM Bey, Hasan Kashif, Ibrahim al-Sinnari, Qasim Bey,
Uthman Bey, and Sulayman Agha.' Three examples of public buildings-a bathhouse,
a watering trough, and a fountain-school (hammam, hawd, and sabil-kuitab,
respectively)-are included (fig. 26). Also shown are major urban spaces such as the
Rumayla, the Khalig al-Masri, the lake of Azbakiya, and Birkat al-Fil, all of which (with
the exception of the Rumayla) have now disappeared. For the first time, a significant
number of architectural details are represented, as well as faithful copies of the Arabic
inscriptions to be found on the mosque of lbn Tulun and the Nilometer." All of this
material was precisely measured and drawn, which gives the work of the Description
an extraordinary resonance and relevance to this day."'
Despite this, the work was obviously restricted in its scope; whether intention
ally or not is difficult to say. A clue to this is given in the very title of the section
that contains the bulk of the engraved plates of Cairo. This is named the "Environs
du Caire" rather than the "Centre Ville." The vast majority of the information
generally pmvided on these drawings; a metric scale and an old French scale (based on
the pocer, the pled, and the taise). For [he titles usedin the plates, their seales, dimensioning systems,
format, and other indications seeT.M. Russell. ed., The Napoleoani Sunny ofEgypt: 7h, Aonuments
and Customs of Egypt. 2 vols. ldershot: Ashgate, 20011. 1:27-28.
58 These drawings are to be found in the Etar toderne 1, pih. 17-73, published in 1809.
59 Of hese, only the house of Ibrahim al-Sinnari survives [monument number 2831.
60 For the inscriptIons in the Nilometer and mosque of lbn Toan, see the Etat Mtoderne 1l.pls. a-g.
61 The drawings are not infallible, however, as can be seen front the elevations of the madrasa of Sultan
32
INTRODUCTION
I'lK
Ell U
I' ll\X
I4
4'
AI HE.
NIIV 1"' ,1
A4PL
F ANFA1~fle
iN
lYIA
MIA .0 4FN> A Al;aIA,
presented is from peripheral rather than central sites. The Bab al-Futuh and the
Bab al-Nasr, which lay exposed on the northern flank of the city, are shown, but
the Bab Zuwayla is not-probably because it was embedded in a denser urban
configuration. All the mosques depicted were either in ruins or at the periphery
or both-al-Hakim, Ibn Tulun, and Sultan Hasan being cases in point. One looks
in vain for the mosques of al-Azhar and al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh or the funerary
complex of Qalawui within the collection of plates, though each was undeniably
worthy of study and inclusion in the architectural corpus. Even the houses that
are depicted were located close to the edge of the main built-up area of the city
rather than within it. Perhaps the interior of the city was at the time simply too
hostile to be penetrated in safety by the French, who were in any case technically
barred entry to Muslim holy sites.
Few images of Cairo appeared in print in the years immediately following the
departure of the French." The mantle of the savants of the Descriptionwas des
tined to fall, appropriately enough, onto a French architect in the employ of
Egypt's new ruler, Muhammad 'Ali, by the name of Pascal Coste." Coste lived in
Egypt from 1817 to 1827 with an absence of one year, and in addition to building
new constructions for his patron, found time to painstakingly document both
pharaonic sites and mor of Cairo's outstanding Islamic architecture. Only his
studies of the latter made it to print. Coste's book, IArchitecture arabe, on
Monuments du Kaire,published in 1839 long after his return to France," was made
up of seventy plates showing a variety of buildings including mosques, fountain
schools, bathhouses, and caravanserai (wikalas). The illustrations in most copies of
the book were black-and-white line drawings; a few examples were hand-colored
or shaded. Plans, sections, elevations, and perspective views are Coste's medium of
communication. To work in the interiors of mosques, Coste was armed with a
firman from Muhammad 'Ali; although the ruler had advised him not to visit the
mosque of al-Azhar, Coste gained entry on the pretext of surveying the floor tiles
prior to their pretended replacement at the Pasha's expense. His treatment of religious
architecture included the mosques of 'Amr, Ibn Tulun, al-Azhar, al-Mu'ayyad
Shaykh, Sultan Hasan, Aqsunqur, and Khayrbak, as well as the funerary complexes
of Qalawun, Farag ibn Barquq, and Qaytbay. He was the first to draw up a 'parallel
62 5ee, for example, Henry Salt. Twenty-four Views Taken in St. Helena, the Cape, India, Celon,
Abyssinia and Egypt (London: W. Miller, 1809) with a fine rendering of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan as
seen from the Citadel.
63 The best study is that of M. Volait, "Les monuments de ['art aeab," in Pasmcl Coste: outes les Egypte
64 LArchitecture arabe,on Monuments du Kaire, mrsurds ct dessinds de Y818 b 1826 par P. Coste,
Architecte (Paris: MM. Firmin Didot Frires, 1839). For the saga preceding publication, see Volnit, 'Les
monuments de 'art arabe,' 114-15.
34
INTRODUCTION
of minarets' to scale, showing eleven examples. Other building types were repre
sented by the Bab al-Nasr and Bab al-Futuh, the Nilometer, the pumping station
of al-Ghuri, the dervish lodge and fountain-school (takiya and sabil-kuttab,
respectively) of Sultan Mahmud, the fountain-school of Ibrahim Bey. al-Kabir, the
al-Tanbali bathhouse, the caravanserai of Dhulfiqar, and the portal of the cara
vanserai of Gaytbay at al-Azhar (fig. 27). The latter constitute the first images of
wikalas to appear in print. Houses along the Khalig al-Masri, and the fasade of the
palace of Razzaz on the Darb al-Ahmar round out the selection with examples of
domestic architecture.
Although Coste has the deserved reputation of being an astonishingly accurate
draftsman of architectural form and detail, he was not above improving on reali
ty in some instances by straightening out the kinks in the structures he surveyed,
introducing symmetry where none existed, or adding elements where he believed
they should exist for perfection's sake. This followed the Beaux-Arts tradition of
creating an ideally proportioned architecture that had little relation to the often
ARCHITECTURE
35
the conflicting orientations demanded by religion (qibla) and context (the street)
when planning mosques and mausoleums. This can be seen, for example, in the
plans Cosie drew up of the complex of Qalawun and the mosque of al-Azhar.6F
Since his renderings are sometimes all that remain as a record of destmyed buildings
such as the hospital (binaristan) of Qalawun, they have art inestimable value.
What is more problematic is that his parily idealized drawings have subsequently
been treated as if they are archaeologically exact foundations upon which to
build reconstructions."
65 Seeaso. Volait, "Le nomorrents d ar arhe,' 123-24 for a discussio of the drawing of the faqade of
thetiroadrsa f Sula Husani.
66 The constrltion of ourtvard arcades in the mosque of al-Mulyynd Shaykh, nearing completion in
2004, is basei on Costes drawing.
36
NTRODUCTION
4x
Plae 15. Prisse dAverns, Ddme et minare de la Mosque de Khairbekych, 1869-77. Color lithograph,
44.8 x 32 cm. Rare Books and Special Collections Library, the American University in Cairo.
The majority of artists and architects who lived in or passed through Egypt dur
ing the nineteenth century had come for the glories of ancient Egypt. Yet Few could
be so insensate as to ignore completely the rich Islamic architectural heritage of Cairo.
The 1840s witnessed the printing of two major works that paid equal homage to the
architecture and the atmosphere of Cairo, frankly succumbing to the combined allure
of its intricate buildings, crumbling ruins, striking panoramas, and dense human
activity. Robert Hay, in his Illustrations of Cairo of 1840, published thirty tonal lith
ographs of the city that, although they are all exterior scenes, provide much unusu
al material rendered in a more lifelike manner than the exquisite but often sterile line
reproductions of the Description and Pascal Coste.P The drawings were produced by
Hay himself and two architects, Owen Carter and C.Laver, and were accompanied by
descriptive notes compiled with the assistance of the great Orientalist scholar and
long-term resident of Cairo, Edward William Lane. Particularly interesting are views
of the now-vanished structures that stood on the hill of Qulat al-Kabsh (fig. 28),
around the Birkat al-Fil, and along the river at Bulaq. Equally arresting are the depic
tions of individual structures that have now been demolished or altered, such as the
Hall of Justice on the Citadel, the mosque of al-Barmawiya, the crumbling slave mar
ket at the wikalat al-Gallaba, the Barbers' Gate at al-Azhar built by 'Abd al-Rahman
Katkhuda, and the constructions of Sultan al-Ghuri inside the Khan al-Khalili.
Whereas the work of Hay rests in relative obscurity, that of David Roberts is ubiq
uitous. This has tended to reduce his remarkable output to the status of an oriental
wallpaper, which is an entirely undeserved fate. Roberts started his professional career
as a scene-painter for the theater but was persuaded by others (including J.M.W.
Turner) to direct his talent to a higher purpose. His vast three-volume set of litho
graphs, Eqypt and Nubia," was the result of a visit to the Near East that lasted less than
a year between 1838 and 1839. It included awe-inspiring images of Cairo: the Bab alNasr and the Bab Zuwayla; the mosques of Sultan Hasan, al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh, Abu']
'Ila (Bulaq), and Sultan al-Ghuri; the minarets of the mosques of al-Gharmri (p]. 13),
Baybars al-Gashankir, and Qawsun; the funeraiy complexes of Qaytbay, Farag ibn
Barquq, the Sultanlya, Qurqumas, and Inal; views inside and outside the city such as
the Bayn al-Qasrayn, the northern cemetery, the Rumayla, the Bab al-Wazir, the east
ern walls seen from the rubbish mounds, and al-Khalifa; details of the Nilometer and
the aqueduct pumping station. This is a selection of Cairo's finest civic architecture,
presented in all its grandeur, yet only a single plate is dedicated to a domestic fagade.
67 Robert Hay, fllustrations of Cairo [London: Tilt R Bogue, 1840). The drawings themselves were executed
by Hay himselr 0. Caner. and C. Laver.
58 Davtd Roberts's work appeared in many editions. the two most imporeant being The Holy and. Swra
Idumea, Arabia, Egypt and Nubia, 6 vols. [London, rG, Moon, I 842-4%), and Egpt and Nuia, 3 vots
(London, EG. Moon, 1846-49).
ARCHITECTURE
37
remarkably accurate record they left-not only of vanished buildings (such as the
Bayt al-Mufti [fig, 45d, bottom] or the Suft convent at Qasr al-Aini) but also of
entire urban spaces that have long passed into memory (such as the Birkar al-Fil
and the Qaramidar). One characteristic this group shared was a fascination with the
domestic environment. For Gir6me and Lewis in particular, this provided a pre
cisely observed and detailed architectural backdrop against which 'oriental life,
with all its intrigue, could unfold.
A different approach-the logical extension of the encyclopedic tendency of the
the painstaking record of decorative treatments in wood, metal, plaster, and mosa
ic. Prisse dAvennes also firmly linked the study of Islamic architecture with its
minor arts: furniture, textiles, metalworking, glass, and ceramics. His successor,
Bourgoin, had an even more defined aim, as is suggested by the title of his work:
Pricis de
lHistoire, a
ia
Theorie et ia
Technique des Arts de lOrient Musulman. This consists of hundreds of line draw
ings of the technical detailing of the construction of the domes, minarets, vaults,
muqarnas, doors, and windows that had so attracted the Romantic artists, but pre
senting them instead as specimens for study (fig. 29).
In the context of the growing European desire to construct and ornament new
buildings in the Islamic style, Prisse d'Avennes and Bourgoin had provided the
69 For Gir6ne, see M. Stevens. ed.. The Orientalists: Delacroix to Marisse. European Painters in North
Africa and the Near East, (London: Royal Academy of Arts, 1984), 136 47; for Lewis, seeC.Williams.
'John Frederick Lewis: Reflections of Reality," Mugarnas 18 [2001): 227-43; for Dillon, seeB.
Liewellyn. 'Frank Dillon and Victorian Pictures of Old Cairo Houses." Ur 3 (1984): 3- 10.
70 Giraull de Prangey. Alonument arabe d'Egypte de Syrie et dAsie mineure; dessinds et measures de 1842
i 1845, (Paris: chez lauteut, 1846).
71 Prisse dAvennes, LAr arabe d aprts les monumenrs du Kaire: Depuis I Ve sitclejusqaru' lafji du
XVle, 3 vols. (Paris: A. Morel. 1869-77).
2 1 Bourgoin., Precis de Ar Arabe el Mathisr pour serrir8 IHistnire, 8 1a Thare e la Technique des
Ars de r
i rient Muniulman (Paris: Leroux, 18'21.
38
I NTR O DU CTI ON
'
L ART ARE
73 For the most comprehensive listing of photographers who worked in Egypt during the nineteenth
century, seeN. Perez, Focus East: Early Phtoraophy in the Near East (J039-1885) (New York:
H. Abrams, 1988).
74 SeeP.Speiser, Die Geschichte der Erhaltung arabischer Baudenkmillerin Agypten ADAIK, Islamische
Reline 8 (Heidelberg, heidelberger Orientverlag, 2001), 47-89.
75 The archive is currently located in the oices of the Supreme Council of Antiquities at the Citadel.
ARCHITECTURE
39
39
Srr
76 See Speiser Die Geschichte der Erhalsung arabischerBaudenkmiiler, 67-74, for biographies. For the
work of Baudry, see M. Volait and M.L. Crosnier Leconte, L'4yptr d'un architere: Ambruisc Baudry,
1838-1906 (Pads; Somogy, 1998)
77 See 0. Grahar, ed., K.A.C. Crswell and His Legacy, Muqarnas 8 (1991).
78 K.A.C. Creswell, The Muslim Architecture of Egypt, 1: Jkshids and Fatimids, AD939-I171 (Oxford;
Oxford University Press, 1952]; The Muslim Architecture ofEgypt, 2: Ayvubids and Early Bahrite
MamDulks, AD 171- 1326 (Oxford: Oxford University Press),1959,
79 The archive, preserved at the Ashmolean Museum. Oxford, is now available on CD-ROM.
80 A. Bahgat and A. Gabrel, Fouilles d'af Faustat: Publires sas les auspices do Comit de Conserration
des Monuments de tArt Arabe ('aris: E. de Brocard, 1921).
81 See the work of G. Scanlon at Fustat, R. Gayraud at Stabl Antar, and P.Speiser et al. at the funerary
complex of al-Nasir Muhammad.
82 M. Melnecke. Die marnfukische Architektur in Agypten and Syrien (648/1250 is 92311517), 2 vols.
ADAIK lslamische Relihe (Gluckstod: . Augustin, 19921.
ARC HIT
CTURE
4
41
to
(which already had its own sabil-kuttab on its east flank) (fig. 33). This was to be
an exact copy of the sabil-kuttab of 'Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda located in the
Bayn al-Oasrayn (no. 21, AH 1157 1 AD 1744). The only reason to make such an
addition was aesthetic. In addition, the sabil-kuttab of 'Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
was already a favorite exemplar of Islamic architectural style, having appeared in
reconstructed form in at least two world exhibitions,"
In the 1920s, the Comite also launched an urban clearance campaign around the
mosque of Ibn Tulun [no. 220, AU 263-65 / AD 876-79). The interior of the mosque
had already been cleared of encroachments and its ruined arcades and ceilings
replaced. The mosque had further been surrounded over the centuries by an
agglomeration of mainly domestic structures that used the outer wall of the ziyada
surrounding the mosque for their structural support (fig. 34). All the surrounding
buildings and streets that led to doors in the ziyoda were removed, with the
exception of three buildings: the madrasa of Sarghatmish (no. 218, AN 757 1 AD
1356), the house and sabil of al-Kritliya (no. 321, AH 1041
87 For the Paris Exposition Universale ol 1900, see Celik, Displaying the Orient, 118. For the World's Fair
at Chicago in 1993, seeH.C. ves, The Dream City: A Portfolio of Photographic Views frotm the World'i
Columbian Exposirion (St. Louis: N.D. Thompson, 1893); and IA. Bicrman. Urban Memory and the
Preservation of Monuments." in J. Bacharach, ed., The Resroration and Pfrservation of hsiomic
Monuments in Egypt (Cairo: The American University in Cair, Press, 1995), 7.
44
INTRO DU CTI ON
I,
house of Amna hint Salim (no. 559, An 947 /AD 1540). The first of these was an
early Mamluk structure of major importance. Its missing dome over the qibla
iwan was replaced in concrete, though evidence indicated that the original dome
had been constructed of wood and lead sheet. The two houses were kept for aesthetic
reasons, but excavating them from their surrounding urban context required the
creation of an entirely new southern facade where none had existed before. This
was carried out in 'appropriate' style with new mashrabiya and corbeling. During
the clearance process, the mosque of Ibn Tun also lost a secondary Manluk
minaret (seen in the background of fig. 34), which was demolished because it was
purportedly unsafe.
The final example considered here is that of the mausoleum of Shagarat
al-Durr (no. 169, AH 648 / AD 1250), which lies in the area known as al-Khalifa close
to the mosque of Ibn Tulun." A 1902 survey shows the small domed mausoleum
embedded in a cluster of buildings including shops and a functioning zawiya with
an ablutions court-all obviously later accretions (fig. 35). A project was initiated
in 1917 to disengage the mausoleum from its attendant zawiya, which was to be
replaced by a new Mamluk-style zowiya and sabil at a suitable distance from the
mausoleum. This plan failed to provide any new ablutions facilities, rendering the
mosque unusable. Although the disengagement was carried out, the new zawiya
was never finished; it stands today as an incomplete and unused ruin that might at
first glance be taken for a Manuk structure.
Consideration of the manner in which the complex of Shagarat al-Durr and
other buildings discussed above were remodeled leads inevitably to the issue of
style. The use of an Islamic Revival style" in the reconstruction or rebuilding of his
toric structures was not favored solely by the Comitd: other agencies such as the
Ministry of Endowments, often working with members of the royal family, were
also responsible for major changes in the appearance of historic buildings, usually
mosques. Their motives are less complex than those of the conservationists: they
wished simply to facilitate the use of the buildings in their care and considered the
neo-Islamic style to be the appropriate mode of expression for those aspirations.
This trend started slightly ambiguously with the new mosque of al-Ilusayn (com
menced by 'Abbas I and completed under Khedive Isma'il in 1878), the faqade of
which can be considered as much a manifestation of Gothic as Islamic styling.
88 For the extent of Shigarat at-Durr's foundation in the area see D. Beheren-Abouself. "The Lost Minaret
of Shajarat ad-Durr at Her Complex In the Cemetery of Sayyida Nafisa, MDAIK 39 l1983), 1-16.
89 SeeR. Ilbert and '. Volait, 'Neo-Arabic Renaissance in Egypt," Mimar 13 (1984: 26-34: N. Rabbat,
"The Formation of the NCo-Manuk Style in Modem Egypt," in M. Pollak, ed., The Education of the
Architect Historiography,urbanism, and the Growth of Architectural Knowledge (Camnbridge, MA,
MIT Press, 1997), 363 86.
ARCHITECTURE
45
90 See M. a-laamaousy, ' h, Rel igious Monuments of he Period of isninil Pasha (1863- I879) (masters
Arabic Stuie, the American University in Caro, i992t.
ihrsis, Department
I Se, Mo.al-Amroussi, 'Seicted Reiigiou Buildings Irom tIhePertod of 'Abbas [ilt
[1892-1914)
ma ers I hsis, Dear nr n ol Ar ie S udies. Ihe America n Ui ve rily in (Ci ro, 1994).
92 codate thse have included the mosinies of al-Hakim, ai-Aqmr, and I uclu. and the cashhad oralCuyuashi. Hr tih colext or thsi re.oirations. seP.Sinders, Boira Architncirei and the Rsiori con
in M. Biarrucaned.
of Ftirrlid tuic
lari-ISorhoi nn. t1999), 1-,
46
INIRUDUCTIOD N
d., L gypt
fainde:
St
art
I
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r
L7
*IM
1i~
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94
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7-Tomhefmu EhagmretEl
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Lertiia le 3Nh'ti:z.
it
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/
$cr2Y
cf cn.,r
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conquest of Egypt. the Mamluk architectural tradition survived largely intact with
the integration of specific isolated architectural elements and typologies."
Muhammad 'Ali was the first to attempt to impose an alien architectural style, based
on models from Albania (the Rumi' manner), as well as imperial Ottoman prototypes
(most notably in his eponymous mosque on the Citadel and other 'Turkish Baroque'
constructions). He also attempted to alter the appearance of indigenous architecture
by proscribing the use of mashrabiya windows in new buildings and by requiring
their replacement (with modem casements) in old buildings? This took place
because the mashrabiyawas alleged to be a fire risk, but another reason was wholly
symbolic: mashrabiyawas considered to be 'backward! A reversal of this process was
instigated by the Comite for their own aesthetic reasons. By the end of the nineteenth
century, hybrid fagades on apartment buildings that sported classical balconies and
mashrabiya projections side by side were a commonplace.
sabil,
ARCHITECT URE
49
A major catalyst for the use of the neo-Islamic style was its popularity with
European architects who had been working in Egypt since the time of Pascal Coste.
None of Coste's own proposals for new buildings in this style were adopted by his
patron Muhammad 'Ali, but other architects such as Ambroise Baudry, Julius Franz,
and Max Herz met with more favor." After 1900, other foreign architects continued
in design buildings that ranged from private houses and apartment blocks to gov
emnment offices and mosques, with various Islamic revival features. With the excep
tion of mosques, these treatments (as they were applied to neoclassical or modem
plans and building types) were limited mostly to favades. Alfonso Manescalo was the
architect of the new Muste de l'Art Arabe (1903). Mario Rossi, Achille Patricolo,
Antoine Lasciac, and Ernest Jaspar all used a variety of Islamic elements in their
work, whether for secular or religious projects? Egyptian architects also adopted the
95 For Baudry, see Volait and Crosnier-Leconte, L'Egyptr d'on arrhitect, 56-103. For the building of the
Gezira Palace (now the Marriott Hotel) by Franz, see T. Sakr, Early Twentieth-Century Islamic
Architecture in Cairo [Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 1993), 47-48. For Herz s involvemets
in the fail project see M. al-Asad, "The Mosque of al-Rifa'i in Cairo," Mugarns 10 (1993) 108-24.
96 For Rossi, see A.M. Sidky, "The Modem Mosque in Egypt: The Mosques of Mario Rossi far the Awquf
(master's thesis, Department of Arabic Studies, the Amrerican University in Cairo, 1998); For Patricolo,
see M Valait, Grandes demaeures do Caire au sikle pass&" Cahiers de la Rechnerche Architecturale
20/21 (1987): 90-91; for Lasciar, see M. Volait, "Antoine Lasciac (1856-1946]: Un architecte face A
1'Oriest,' in Lo fite en Egypte:.Supplment aux voyages eumpens (Cairo: CEDEJ, 1986), 256-Bl; for
Jaspar, see R lbert, Hdiopolis,genise d'une ville, 1905-1922 (Marseifle: CNIRS,1981).
50
I NTRO 0 UCTI ON
IAl
iZN
f2
7L
Islamic style wholeheartedly. Mahmud Fahmi al-Mimar (the chief engineer of the
Ministry of Endowments after 1907), his son Mustafa Fahmi (director of the Public
Buildings Service after 1926), and others such as Farid Shafi'i were instrumental in
the furtherance of neo-Islamic architecture as the approved style for public build
ings?' This included the use of a neo-Fatimid fagade (based on the mosque of alAqmar) for the entrance to the Coptic Museum (which was inaugurated in 1947) by
Simaika Pasha, who perhaps intended to hint at a Fatimid debt to the Coptic decora
tive tradition. Almost all of the above mentioned architects, both European and
Egyptian, had close ties with the Comitd.
Since the 1920s, the Islamic Revival style has been challenged by the pharaonic
style in the realm of secular architecture. The latter was considered by many to be a
more appropriate manifestation of a nationalism that cut across religious distinctions.
This is best exemplified by the monuments dedicated to Sa'ad Zaghloul (whose tomb
was also built by Mustafa Fahmi). Today, both Islamic and pharaonic styles are
practiced, usually with a split between buildings intended for religious purposes
97 These include the Ministry of Endowments 1898-1929), the Arabic Music Institute (1921-29), the
Egyptian Engineers' Syndicate 11930), and the Parliament Mosque (1930s).
52
I N TRODUCTION
7 ,
11
-1
1Park
1 l
--W
(such as the Dar al-Ifla: the seat of the Grand Mufti), and those for secular ones
(the Constitutional Court). In some cases, such as that of a new restaurant for the
park in Darrasa sponsored by the Aga Khan (fig. 371, these buildings incorporate
diverse elements deriving from different periods of Islamic architecture within a
single structure.
Although there is no simple prescription for how best to conserve built heritage,
there is a growing consensus that the accumulated historical layers and context of a
building should not be simply discarded (whether for aesthetic or other reasons)
during this process. Further examples of radical disassociation and the aesthetic
imperative in the reconstruction of the Islamic monuments of Cairo, similar to those
cited above, abound. In fact, it Is altogether rare to find a historic structure in Cairo
today that has not undergone significant remodeling over the past century. The
Comdite had one incontestable reason for embarking on such a course: without radical
interventions it was likely that much of the building stock would have vanished
completely through degradation rather than surviving in a nonetheless altered state.
Its architects operated at a time when the depth of their architectural knowledge was
not matched by a similar depth of understanding in addressing the distinctions
between reconstruction and conservation. The divergent philosophies of John Ruskin
and Fugne Viollet-le-Duc may have been appreciated intellectually, but it was
ARCHITECTURE
53
almost always the latter's approach that was (and is) favored. Current proponents of
Cairo's reconstruction cannot claim either historical ignorance or pressing necessity
for some of their architectural transformations. These include, by way of example, the
further isolation of the northern walls of the city through the demolition of adjacent
buildings intra murs, and the rebuilding of the missing courtyard arcades of the
mosque of al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh-on the basis of a perspective drawn by Pascal Coste
before the enclosure wall of the mosque was reconstructed in 174.
The policy of legally-sanctioned isolation, which requires the creation of a buffer
zone (harram]around a registered monument, risks the destruction of its surrounding
urban tissue (both physical and social), depriving the building of its historic context
and therefore of much of its meaning. The ultimate destination of such an approach,
in the opinion of this author, is a sterile theme park where buildings that are framed
as 'mionuments' io longer contribute to the life oflthe city but stand as detached
three-dimensional cut-outs in a typological or stylistic catalogue. This triumph of
taxonomy has encouraged, in the first place, a focus on exclusive stylistic periods
rather than an awareness of buildings as the products of an accumulated history, and,
in the second, a belief in outward representation as being of more importance than
the fundamental spatial paradigms found in the Islamic architecture of Cairo.
Urbanism
Cairo is a serial city, the development of which has been governed by a number of
factors." Its physical limits were imposed by the Muqattam Hills to the east, and the
River Nile to the west (fig. 1). The Nile's course was variable,", as were its floods, and
90 For tudics of the topagraphical developmntl of the city and its constituent pacts during different periods
see: P.Ravaisse, "Essai sur 'histoire eta topographic du Caire d'aprts Makrizi," part 1: MMAF I 11886),
409-80); par, 2 MMAF 3 (1889), 33-114; U. Salmon, 'Etudes sur la topographic du Caire. Lekalat alKabsh et a Birkat al-Fil," MAAF 7 (1902); M. Clergt, Le Cair, crude de groprophir urbaine et d'histoire
tconomique 2 vols. (Cairo: Schindler, 1934); SJ. Staffa, Conquest and Fusion. The Social )eolution of
Cairo AD 642-f850 (Leiden: Brill, 1977); Abu-Lughod, Cairo. One Thousand and One Years ofthe City
Victorious; A. Raymond and G. Wie, Leosmarches du Caire: Troduction annoredu terre de Maqrii,
Textes Araes et Eudes Islamiques 14 (Cairo: IFAO, 1979); Haina, An Urban History of Bslo in the
aanhlk and Ottoman Periods; D. Behrcns-Abouseif Azbakiya nd its envlruhs fnov Abakton Isma'il,
1476-1879, Supplement aux Annales Islamologiques Cabier No. 6 (Cairo, IFAO, 1985); N.D. Mackenzie,
Ayyubid Cairo: A Topographical Study (Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, 1992); P.
Sanders, Ritual Politics and the Cirt in Fatimid Cairo {Albany: SUNY, 1994); D. Behrens-Abustif, 'AlNasir Muhammad and al-Astral Qaytbay-Patrons of Urbanism," in U. Vermeulen and D. de Smet, eds.
Egypt and Syria in the Fatimid, Ayyabid, and Maduk Ems (Loesen: Petters. 1995), 267-84; A.
Raymond. Le Cairo des Janissaires: I'Apoge de Ia rile ottomane taut Abd al-Rahmdn Kolkhadd (Padris
CNRS, 1995); A.F Sayvid, La Capitale de IEgyptejusqu'a cepaqeforoinidc: al-Qnhira et FusoatEssaide de reconstituton topogmphique, Beiruter Toxte end Studient 48 (Beirut and Stuttgart: Steiner,
1998); S. enoix, J.-C Depaule, and M.Tuchscherer eds.,L, Khan al-Khalifi: Un cetre conmercial o
artisanal a Caire du Xllc an XXe sile, Etudes Urbaines 4 [Cairo: IFAO. 1999); A. Raymond, Cairo,
(Cambridge, MA.: Harvard University Press, 2000).
99 SeeCJ R. Haswell, 'Cairo, Origins and Development: Some Notes on the Influence of lh River Nile and
lis Changes," Bulletin de Ia Societe Royale de Giographie dftgqynpe, vol. I [nes. 3 and 4) (1922).
54
INT
0DUCTION
as a consequence high ground was always preferred for construction. Of the first
city, Fustat, founded in the seventh century, we look to archaeology for insight. Of
its successors, al-'Askar and al-QataT (eighth to ninth centuries), only the mosque
and aqueduct of Ibn Tulun remain. It is the Fatimid, Ayyuhid, and Mamluk city
(tenth to fifteenth centuries), overlaid with a multitude of later constructions, that
we can walk through and appreciate today. The early cities also followed a het
erotopic pattern, each being built adjacent to a previous settlement. Fustat was
constructed outside the walls of the Roman fortress of Babylon, which had become
the administrative center of Byzantine Egypt. The Abbasid and Tulunid foundations
of al-'Askar and al-GataT were located slightly to the northeast of Fustat. The virgin
site selected for the establishment of Fatimid al-Qahira was again to the north of the
earlier cities. Salah al-Din, following Syrian precedent, situated the Ayyubid citadel
on a dominant spur of the Muqattam Hills, and for a while development took place
along the new axis of power that ran from there to the former Fatimid center.
The control and diversion of flood water from the Nile was achieved through the
building of canals and artificial lakes, which complemented a preexisting canal,
dating from pre-Roman times. This took place most particularly in the time of the
Mamluk sultan al-Nasir Muhammad (early fourteenth century), who constructed a
second canal (the Khalig al-Nasiri) to the west of its ancient forerunner (the Khalig
al-Masri). This allowed more of the area between the Khalig al-Masri and the vagrant
river edge to be reclaimed and occupied by buildings, a process that was finally
completed only in the late nineteenth century. Under the Mamluks, the city also
spread north, to the suburb of Husayniya, and south, toward the mosque of Ibn
Tulun. During the Ottoman period, urban developments were concentrated around
the lakes of Azbakiya and Birkat al-Fil, as well as in the area immediately to the west
of the Khalig al-Masri, and in the port of Bulaq, which served Cairo's commercial
needs. The pace and extent of urban development was also profoundly affected by
factors other than the course of the river. Disastrous plagues regularly took their toll
on the city and its inhabitants, while new commercial interests such as the lucrative
trade in coffee that flourished from the seventeenth century provided the necessary
capital for intense periods of building activity The remarkable ethnic, commercial,
and religious diversity of the city, as it developed through time, is marked by an
abundance of descriptive toponyms, which survive to this day.
Cairo has now made the transition from metropolis to megalopolis.' The
majority of the city's recent explosive growth is illegal. New developments follow
100 For a study of Cai's growth on the occasion of its 100th anniverry, see R. Marthelot, Le Caire:
Nouvelle Metropole," Annales Istamalogiques B(1969): 189-221
URBANISM
55
the preexisting divisions of agricultural land on the edges of the city." In the historic
center, however, while the pressure for expansion is still acute, growth has generally
(though not solely) occurred vertically rather than horizontally, with the result that
the street patterns visible in the late eighteenth-century survey of the Description
de IEgypte are still physically apparent. The most obvious feature of this system is
the hara, or closed neighborhood, consisting of a network of dead-end streets. Each
of these individual clusters was accessible through a gated (and guarded) entrance
and possessed a measure of social and political autonomy (fig. 38). The haras still
survive as meaningful urban units and provide the city with character, despite the
destruction of most of their entry gates (by Napoleon's soldiers) and despite the
erosion of their social and political independence.'" Furthermore, the major
Fatimid, Ayyubid, and Mamluk thoroughfares, which connected vital nodes of the
city and which were used as the stage for ceremonial processions, are also still
intact and lined with monumental architecture. The Qusaha (literally, 'trachea') is
the spine of the Fatimid city that extends south to the area of al-Qata''. The Darb
al-Ahmar connects the Citadel with the Fatimid walled city, and Shari' Saliba links
the former to the mouth of the Khalig al-Masr (see fig. 1). Complementing the living
city are the 'cities of the dead.' The major cemeteries of Cairo were located in
peripheral zones, the largest of these to the southwest and northeast of the Citadel.
Other graveyards were located outside the Bab al-Wazir on the Darb al-Ahmar and
beyond the Bab al-Nasr on the northern edge of the Fatimid center. All these ceme
teries grew significantly during the twentieth century (with the addition of a major
residential component in some cases]. They are all still functioning, although plans
have been in place for some time to relocate the tombs from the cemetery outside
the Bab al-Nasr to the western desert, where the major new cemeteries serving Cairo
have been established beside the roads leading to the Fayyum and to Suez.
As far as the building stock of the historic city is concerned, the passage of time
has taken its toll, as is to be expected. Within the urban core, the process of
ruination, whether the result of recurrent famines and plagues or changing economic
conditions, was steady. To judge from the laments in the fifteenth-century description
of al-Maqrizi, the collapse ofthe city proceeded almost in tandem with its construction
56
INTRODUCTION
ci
during certain periods. Of the more than four hundred caravanserai (wikola-funduq
khan-qaysariya), so critical for the mercantile life and physical texture of the city,
ii
that are recorded for the Mamluk and Ottoman periods, only approximately thirty
survive relatively intact today (not all of which are registered monuments). The
map and index of the Description de 1'gypte are vital in allowing us to chart a
more exact picture of loss since 1800. At the end of the eighteenth century, Cairo
had 308 public watering places (watering troughs and fountain-schools), of which
approximately ninety remain."' From the list of one hundred bathhouses noted by
the Description de ltgypte, only fourteen survive. " Of the sixty-two private houses
and palaces catalogued by Edmond Panty in 1933, twenty have been destroyed and
a further five are at grave risk from irreparable disintegration. x
Such statistics point to an urgent need for the enforcement of effective preservation
I 1
103 The total is derived from Raymond and Wiet. Les marchts du Caire, which includes an appendix that
lists known Ottoman witaoas.
104 See A. Raymond, "Les fontaines publiques (sabii) du Caire
epaque attomrnae (1517-1798)," Annales
U R B A N 15 M
57
Maps are the primary tool used in the delineation of urban change, and the
cartographic history of the city is fortunately rich enough to sustain a study of
those changes, street by street and block by block. With reference to the detailed
map of Cairo in the Descripifon, and considering the urban core of the city, major
alterations to the fabric are immediately apparent. Gone are the relatively modest
urban modifications made by Napoleon, notably the rationalization of the periph
ery of the lake of Azbakiya."' Gone, indeed, is the lake of Azbakiya itself, together
with its counterpart the Birkat al-Fil and the Khalig al-Masi-the canal that once
linked them. Azhakiya was replaced by Muhammad 'Ali with a Furopean-slyle
landscaped garden-today even Further truncated-and the Birkat al-Fil was filled in
during the 1840s to provide the site for a royal palace and garden. A modern set
tlement of villas and schools was later established here (the district of Hilmiya). "
The Khalig al-Masri, once ft'terl by poets, had been completely filled in by 1899,
and the sinuous rows of buildings that flanked its course were soon eradicated;"'
the canal's former course has now become a major traffic artery. Seemingly more
permanent than any individual building are the city's rubbish mounds located out
side its eastern wall, some of which reach a height of fifty meters. These mounds
were started in the time of al-Hakim, and are clearly marked (as monti di scovaze)
in the mid-sixteenth-century view of Matteo Pagano (see figs. 3a and 3b). They
were employed by Napoleon to dominate the city with artillery and also used for
more creative purposes as a vantage point by the artist David Roberts. The rubbish
mounds are currently being transformed into a park.
Also visible on maps are the results of the pressure to create new access routes
Fig. 39. Nineteenth-century
road construction in and
around the historic city. Dotted
lines indicate uTexecuted
projects. Author s drawing after
J. Abu-tiughod.
through the city and to widen existing ones (fig. 40a). In nineteenth-century
Europe, the cutting of roads through medieval centers was linked to miasma theories
that fetid air in such dense settlements bred social and physical disease, which
could be best combated by the introduction of new avenues to bring fresh air, space,
and light to the festering interior. Both Cairo and Istanbul experienced the effects of
the application of this theory, which was usually associated with the principles of
regularization of the urban fabric and the introduction of new transport systems."
Shari Muski (named after an Ayyubid amir, 'Izz al-Din Musk) is the first example
110 [lie French-built street linking Azhakiya to the Khalig a-Maisri sorvives. however, as the westernmost
secuton of Shariat-Muski.
IlI K. Aslour, "Ihe IDmestication of Knowledge: t ao at the I urn of the Century" Mgaarna 10 1993)
125-37.
li2 the creation of an enlarged square in fmt of the mosque of Saivyida Zaynab also dates Io this period.
11) For a comparison with istanhtl, see Z. eik, fTheRemaking of talnhut: Portmaitof an Ottoman City
in the Ninreenth Ct,,etr (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1993). For ine
icenth-century urbanisma
in Cairo. see R. tlbert, -Note sur I'Egypte au KUXesircle, Annates
isfamrteqiqsr 17 (1981): 343-60, ep. 346-48.
58
NI RODUCT ION
- i
50
m100
in Cairo of a straight route running east-west through the old town. This road was
started by the French in 1800, extended by Muhammad Ali and 'Abbas from 1845
to 1854, and completed in 1874 by Khedive Ismnail, who continued it up to the desert
east of the city. Even more dramatic was the course of the Shari' Muhammad 'Ali,
which was built in 1873 by [small as an elegant arcaded street two kilometers in
length, linking Azbakiya to the Midan al-Rumayla below the Citadel, with the
madrasa of Sultan Hasan as its foeal point. In such projects, conformity to the rules
of perspective and a regular alignment were essential." The path of the new street
was uncompromising, even slicing through major mosques such as that of Qawsun
(fig. 40)."' Scant vestiges of the original khedival buildings that bordered the
avenue remain, as this street, too, ironically fell victim to Nasserist road-widening
policies initiated in the 1950s."' Not all the planned new avenues of the nineteenth
century were in fact executed, as can be seen from the 1874 map of Pierre Grand."
116 Although the project was never completed, it is clear that a reinterpretation of the arcade in a modernist
60
I NTROD UCTION
19
N 5 1 NV 9
Mtuamun
uHq.V uupd0j
,aldwrxa japoua
sl pinill) aql mo[aq (ueplwpjpo aqj) awcapoddiq lnlweW aql ol jwavfpv viAotartH-le uuplw ou 611
sum wuweap aq.L 91t
ualcuapun
aqijo asuadica aqiin
Knmwujl
j S -, uodwoo
p9lI.InL) poqiMnj-nqV
jo suapjO pue sezeld uiDpow aqj piumoi aaDdszu jellwis V ,'SjU3W3AOldwi 4azuis
uo paoe[d anjeA MqlJO DDUap!A;) jaqilrtj QpjAoid lojtvj fo sjjxjS jqj Ouiwj.,uo.)
silng oyj fo moutgodrg fi-tnju;i3-qjw3UU ;ijul stsipbBW-jp se q3ns lslxzi jalpo
,,,-;I uirlutem ol jazils u apjs uoje 5ui om pun uwj asoqj salinbai (q!svlqnw)
JIUIPDWWI
.Siallew jo jopidsui, all jo junuew fLiruujj-qjujjiinqj V
43DFqns Alpittoilipe4 ajam i! uodn sluaLuqauojz)ua pup 'onssi jaeuodua up sum
ol
siajils jo f4p0a;ul j4j a3uds Dilqnd ueqjn f ietuild qi =q sAemle seq jazils ;iql
;)I;)qm ,,'o'Tuj jo uolllpej) juinlaallq e tjj ui iiuj Sj =.ux , we s;)ax!ds ujdo q3nS
,saxaidwoD famoury InjuialN qI!m jjlnqj3Ao 1juanWsqns sem ivqi ujrqL[-jr jo jal
-uaa ;iql In sAopqed plwiip.q omi jqj uaimiaq nalp. jqI 'uAwsmi)-te UALq aqj jo azis
aqj samp SuuLu st ajods s(4,L *141ajiliusiq aqj jo ijeaq a4l v! j)uds ujdo mau Ajel
e alowo ol soo6l aqi o) soz(jj aqi tuaij sa2els ut Kemp 1d;)ms al;;m sainjoruns asqj
'ZOOZ
ut Ai[D jqj qlejujq fauuni H
SHM JJAOAJJ 0
JPjAwd
01 sOZ61
D essed is
LITPDPPU
PDAoid j;)LU
WU
1841 Dauapaozud aq) jo linsij jqj ua3q DAPq Sew siql (6r:
U .1.1s) uO q jiAzu
ajam Inq 'jDiu 3 Dijoistq aqj 13 siajui ol piuueld ai3m s3nUJAU Jaq)o '38[UqV-le
qie(l aqj uoinbansbV jo anbsowoql Illim TPj!M-lp, jo
anbsuul
pajoldwo3-oq
-ol-1111s jqj $uqojuuoD jnujAP. up jo qlad palaa.roid aqj 'Aldwuxa loj 'smuqs siqj
Major damage to the urban matrix has also been caused by the construction
of new schools and housing on the sites of private properties that were seques
trated after the 1952 Revolution. These developments, which are designed as
freestanding blocks, have been harmful from an architectural and urbanistic
perspective, however necessary they may be deemed to be from a social or edu
cational viewpoint. The new blocks, which conform to standard model, destroy
the continuity of streets and create empty wastelands around them. Their design
exhibits the worst characteristics of modernist object-buildings, eradicating large
areas of the old urban fabric."' In its scale, the most spectacular example of such
a development is the modern campus of al-Azhar University to the east of the
eponymous mosque. In the 1950s, the existing network of streets was demolished
to make way for the new campus structures (fig. 41a). A few registered monu
ments (the mosque of al-Ghurayib [no. 448], the qa'a al-Ghannamiya [no. 961,
and the house of Zaynab Khatun [no. 771) were retained from the preexisting pat
tern, and these buildings now stand, forlorn and deprived of their original con
text, in a largely alien environment. Other historic buildings were simply demol
Fig. 41b. Maq'ad of the
demolished house of Shaykh
al-Sayim (437). Photographer
unknown, ca. 1930. Comitt
archive, No photographs
are known to survive of the
other demolished buildings
in this area.
122 See discussion in C.Row and F. Koetter, Collage City (Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, 1983), 50-85.
123 SeeE.Pauty, Rapport gen*ral sur la dtfense de l'ancienne vile du Caie et desmonuments
historiques arabes et copies," BCCMAA (1927-29); 170-84. 1hereport was revised and subsequently
appeared with the title 'La defense deI ancienne ville du Caire et deses monuments," in B!FAO 31
(1931): 135-76. and later under the title 'Rapport sur ]a protecrion de Iancienre ville." inBCCMAA
(1933-35): 210-14.
62
INTRODUCTION
[26)
97: mosque of al-Azhar
(Bab al-Shurba (A)
deprived of context)
(437): house of Shaykh alSaylm [demorished)
(447): sabil-ktab of tthman
Abdalish Roget
al-Qamh (demolished);
448: mosque and sabil of
Shaykh Muhammad
al-Ghurayib (isolated
from context);
demolished
Fig. 41a. Area of the al-Azhar University campus with post-[ 950 development (demolished
streets and buildings are shuwn dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
lisl.'" The citation does not, however, define the physical area of the city con
sidered so worthy of protection. s
Numerous examples serve to illustrate the Comite approach to the problem of
what to do with registered monuments that stood in the way of urban change. In
general terms this was to rescue the artifact by dismantling and reconstructing it
elsewhere, an approach that could be adopted for smaller buildings but that was
unfeasible for larger ones, of which only isolated pieces were saved. The same exam
ples also demonstrate the Comit's attitude toward urban planning and aesthetic
issues. In many ways this approach set a conservation precedent for the more spec
tacular Nubian Campaign of the 1950s and 1960s, when monuments were routine
ly sawn up and transported great distances before being reassembled. Four areas are
selected here for detailed examination: the Midan al-Husayn, the area immediately
outside the Bab Zuwayla, the northern walls, and the area of the former canal (the
Khalig al-Masri, now Shari' Bur Said) at its junction with Shari' al-Azhar.'
Midan al-Husayn
Of the early structure of the mosque of al-Husayn, only the Ayyubid minaret and gate
beneath it (the Bab al-Akhdar) survive (no. 28, AH 549-634 / AD 1154-1237). The bulk
of the neo-Gothic/1slamic mosque was built in the 1870s under royal patronage, and
this was extended in matching style during the 1950s. This latter extension blocked
the Bab al Akhdar from use as a through route under the minaret (in a design parallel
to that of the minaret of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub in the Bayn al-Qasrayn). Such a
passage between urban blocks was in any case rendered obsolete by the progressive
removal of the blocks themselves after 1920 (see figs. 42a and 42b). A number of
other registered monuments were also affected by the clearance in the area, notably
the sabil-kuttab of Isma'il ibn Ahmad/al-Maghlawi/al-Manawi (no, 57, AN 1068 /
AD
1657), the sabil al-Bazdar (no. 27, eleventh century AK / seventeenth century AD), the
hammam al-'Adawi (formerly no, 567, thirteenth century AK / nineteenth century
a house in the waqf of al-Haramayn (formerly no. 400, twelfth century AN /
eighteenth century AD), and the khan al-Zarakisha (no. 351, ca. AN 915 / AD 1509).
Clearance in the area began in the 1920s in order to provide an eastern terminus
AD),
for the tramway running from Ataba to al-Azhar. It was continued during the 1930s
64
rudetalernencet
oe
INTRODUCTION
27: sc it al-Bazdar
(moved from 27A);
28: gateway and minaret
of the mosque of alHusayn [the gateway
[Bab al-Akldar]
isolated from its
context);
57, sabif-kuttab of Isma'l
ibn Ahmad (moved
from 57A);
97. mosque of al-Azhar
(demolished ablutions
area and north gate
of Claytbay shown
dotted on plan):
351: khan al-Zarakisha;
(400); montd in the waqf
or al-Haramayn
(demolished);
(567); hammom al-'Adawi
(demolished).
S~
Fig. 42a. Midan al-Hiusayn showing post-1950 development (demolished streets and buildings are shown dashed).
Numbers in parentheses indicate deregisiered monuments.
in the area between the mosques of al-Husayn and al-Azhar, where these buildings
were located. In 1931, the Comite decided to move the sabils to nearby sites that were
agreed on with the Ministry of Public Works (Tanzim), and this was finally accom
plished in 1936. The process of transfer cannot have been an easy one, as is apparent
from an examination of the plans of the sabil al-Bazdar before and after it was moved.
Not only was the sabil part of a much later mosque that was 'left behind' in the move,
but it also did not fit the plot assigned to it and so, to deal with the problem, a sec
ondary portal was reoriented at right angles to the main faQade whereas previously it
had been contiguous with it (fig. 42c). The reconstruction of the sabil-kutlab oflsmail
ibn Ahmad follows a rigidly orthogonal plan (which is unlikely to have been original),
in a laudable attempt to provide for the reuse of the building as a school (fig. 42d).
Needless to say, the original water-cisterns under both these buildings were also aban
doned in the move, although (whether by chance or design is unclear) the buildings
were reconstructed in roughly the same orientation with respect to the cardinal points
and to each other. The transfer also resulted in great confusion as at sometime during
the process the registration numbers (27 and 57) were swapped: the true identity of
each building can only be identified by reference to old drawings in the archives of
the Comite and a study of the foundation inscription on one of the sablis. As for the
bathhouse, it is present on maps until at least 1950; it remains on the published list of
registered monuments despite the fact that it no longer exists (fig. 42e). Its demolition
is presumed to have occurred in the 1950s with a later enlargement of the square in
front of the mosque of al-Azhar. The same fate attended the house in the waqf of al-
Haramayn (the exact position of which, close to the khan al-Zarakisha, is still
unknown). This house, with its soaring reception room, would undoubtedly have posed
more of a challenge to move (fig. 421). The fagade of the khan al-Zarakisha, by con
trast, was overhauled with new mashrabiya in the 1920s in order to provide an 'eb
Fig. 42g. Photographs of the
faqade of the khan al-Zarakisha
(no. 351) before (top) and after
restoration. RCCMAA. 1936-40,
pl. 20 and pl. 21.
lissement' for the new tram terminus (fig. 42g). The work did not extend to the interi
or of this building, however, which remains derelict to this day. The legacy of these
various piecemeal interventions is an ill-defined urban space, which is cunently the
subject of a new project proposal.:
block, two teaching areas (the riwaq al-Sharqiya dated 1810 and the riwaq al-Hanafiya
dated 182), and a gateway built by Sultan Qaytbay, all of which were located on the
northern side of the mosque, took place after 1988."' This required the construction of a
new faqade facing the midan, which was built in imitation of those constructed in 1897
by Khedive 'Abbas 1l.
127 SeeMinistry of Cltour, Arab Republic of Egypt, Historic Cairn Cair: Supreme Council of Antiquities,
2002), 485-98.
128 These elements are described as intact in V.Setan.Williats and P. Stocks, Blue Guide Egypr (London:
A. A C. Black, 1988), 261.
66
I NTROD UCTI ON
5
0
5m
Fig. 42e. Plans of the sabIl al-Bazdar (no. 27] before (topJ
and after transfer.
-I
..........
5nm
Fig. 42f. Section of the demolished manzil in the waqf of a]Haramayn (400). BCCMAA, 1909, pl. 11.
Njo I I flOn a
8 N1U9
a -sjmI~
Ajuo Palolsai
01dM
IJBXPr)-IR. IjiABI4s
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context);
Mf
Fig. 43a. Area around Bob Zuwayla showing post-t900 development (demolished streets and
buildings are shown dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
extension of the development of Radwan Bey immediately to the west of the zawiya
sabil of Farag ibn Barquq still bears the scars of where it was truncated in 1915; this
section of the building was never officially registered despite being a part of a uni
tary complex. " Fasadism is still a governing principle in current restoration attempts
in the area. In 2002, the entire western side of the Qasaba of Radwan Bey was cleaned
and repaired with certain omissions. No roof was put in place, no electricity or water
supply was installed for the upper floors, and no proposal was made for the struc
ture's reuse and reintegration into the economic life of the city
129 No ewer than threnseparate numbers are used to register the various part of this enmpix, and even
so nal all of the building is regitered.
70
INTRODUCTION
L-rLTOliL-i
Lmt!31
72
INTRODUCTION
Fig: 43e. Top; Photograph of the entrance to the qasabo of Radwan Bey after disengagement; bottom: Elevation of the modified northern
faqade of the eastern and western blocks of the qasaba of Radwan Bey (kfi), and elevation of the new eastern facade of the northern
block. Comitd archive.
6: Bab al-Futuh;
7: Babal-Nasr;
9: wikoloof Gaytbay
(upper stories rebuilt)
15: mosque of al-Hakim;
(170): mausoleum of
Ourqumas (moved to
eastern cemetery);
352: Northern Walls (clear
ance and rebuilding)l
(429): sabiof Salim Agha
(demolished);
(558): mosque of Ayesho alSutuhiya (demolished).
-ef
Fig. 44a. Area around the Northern Walls showing post-1900 development (demolished streets and buildings
are shown dashed). Numbers in parentheses indicate deregistered monuments.
74
I NTRODUCTION
1RRANISM
75
of his ribat had a different future. The Comitb began working on this building
between 1884 and 1897, initially disengaging it from its surrounding context. The
7,
,this
'registered
Lto
It is unlikely that the present situation of these two structures, which are today
Yahyni)
iatalin beore
additon of the
sabit
(iand
ter
or Um
lini usayn
detailed perusal of the archives of the Comitt. The sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan
(no. 420, Alt 1246 / AD 1830] located on Shari' Taht al-Rab' was moved in the 1950s
(fig. 46). The sabil-kuttab of Sitt Saliha (no. 313. Al 1154 / AD 1751), was set back
from its position on Shari' Bur Sa'id during the same period. Lest it be thought that
such treatment was reserved exclusively for sabils, there is the case of the mau
soleum of Ahmad Pasha Tahir (no. 565, before All 1233 / A) 1817), which was
moved from near Sayyida Zaynab to its present location in 1951.'" The portal of
the wikain of Qawsun (no. 11, before AH 742 / Al) 1341), the first wikala built in
Cairo, was saved when the entire building fell victim to a road-widening project
(which was subsequently abandoned), and rebuilt on a new alignment (fig. 47).
132 SeeBCCMAA (1912) (appendix to [fse. 29): 119-20, with accompanying photoe. for a historical
description by Max Hery. of this intriguing building.
133 At about the Sametime, a smaller Mauluk tnhtl of Gamal al Din In Darb al-Sa'ada) was meed to
tIe garden of the Bay, al-Sibayrni. SeeBCCMAA 1946-53t: 419-20,
76
NTRODUCION
Fig. 45a. Junction of Shari' Bur Said and Shari' al-Azhar showing demolished blocks (dashed) and new flyovers
(dotted and dashed). Numbers in parenthescs indicate deregistered monuments.
collection.
. rr
100 m
50
installed beneath the streets in the historic center; doing so would usefully con
tribute to the lowering of the fatally high water table that adversely affects all the
buildings in the area." The stripping of accumulated historical layers, on the scale
of individual buildings as well as entire neighborhoods, can sometimes be
justified. When practiced without discrimination, however, this process inevitably
134 At the
time of going to pret, a mqjor sewage infrastructure project for the Fatimid center has been
inilated by the Egyptian government.
URBANISM
79
50
100 m
Opposite:
Photograph of the portal
of the wikala of Qawsun
before isolation and
transfer. Cornite archive.
80
INTRODUCTI ON
UoNag
4I
/4
MI
.4.
..
..
i'
Sources
Scale Maps of Cairo" (Cairo: Survey of Egypt, 19471 provided the main
listing of registered monuments within the area encompassed by the map
sheets and included in the descriptive catalogue. This was supplemented
with information from an unpublished list of deregistered monuments produced
by the Egyptian Antiquities Organisation in 1951. Where recent scholarship has
indicated that the attributions of the monument's name or date in the published
index are erroneous, a revised listing has been made and the change noted.
Attention is also drawn to the publication by the Supreme Council of Antiquities
in 2000 of a new listing (in Arabic) of registered monuments. This was used to
determine which buildings were legally registered as monuments since the publi
cation of the 1947 Index.
The Bulletins du Comird de Conservation des Monuments de I'Art Arabe are an
essential companion to any serious study of the Islamic architecture of Cairo.
Published from 1883 to 1961, they contain a wealth of information about the histories
and restorations of nearly all the registered monuments included in the Monuments
of Historic Cairo.This series has no comprehensive index. For Bulletin references
prior to 1910, an index was published by Max Herz in 1914, which is referred to
as a key for earlier references. Another important and complementary index was
published by Achille Patricolo in the Bulletin for the years 1915-19. While every
attempt has been made to collate the most important references to particular buildings
within all the Bulletins, it is likely that many passing or global references have been
omitted. Unless otherwise noted, the first edition of each Bulletin has been referenced,
Since the completion of the Map, the Bulletins of the Comit6 have been made available
to researchers in digital form on-line (http://www.islamicart.org/comitte/Comite.asp).
This will undoubtedly facilitate future work in this field.
82
NOTE
ON SOURCES
A not4 of warning should be sounded about the vagaries of the Comiti sys
tem of registration. Not only do buildings have multiple names (often bearing no
relation to one another), but they are frequently registered by element (e.g.,
fagade only). Definitions have in many cases clearly changed or been extended
since the time of the Comit6, and an attempt has been made to bring the listings
in line with what survives on the ground of the original historic fabric of these
structures. The overlapping terminology used to describe them (e.g., 'mosque' or
'madrasa, 'sabil' or 'sabil-kuttab') has been modified for consistency, although this
falls short of being in any way comprehensive. Since survey work was completed
in 2000, the number of ongoing restoration projects in Cairo has increased dra
matically. Further changes are also apparent in the urban fabric. It has not been
possible to update all of the catalogue entries for individual buildings to reflect
their current condition, nor alter the map sheets to reflect the present condition
on the ground.
Also deserving of special mention are the large number of unpublished master's
theses in the Rare Books and Special Collections Library of the American University
in Cairo deriving from the university's graduate program in Islamic Art and
Architecture. These provide a great deal of useful reference material about particular
buildings, periods, typologies, and urban areas.
Cartography
The main cartographic sources utilized for the maps of Historic Cairo are;
The 1:500 Cadastral Series produced by the Egyptian Survey Authority from
1933 to 1960, with some later revisions. These provided the basic plot outlines
for the area included in The Monuments of Historic Cairo. A complete list of
these maps appears below, and the relevant part of their key plan is reproduced in
the introduction (pl. 11).
The 1:1000 Series produced by the Egyptian Survey Authority in several edi
tions. The first edition, in color, dates from 1912 and comprises some 150 sheets
covering the bulk of the urban area to the east of the Nile. Subsequent editions (in
black and white from 1925-31) extended this coverage. These maps provided supple
mentary information on the position of now destroyed urban fabric and demolished
monuments as well as cemetery areas, A key plan of these maps is illustrated in the
introduction (fig. 12).
The 1:5000 Series produced from aerial photographs by the Consortium SFS/EGN
France in 1977-78, for Egypt's Ministry of Housing and New Communities. These
maps (specifically, nos. 1 14, 1 15, J 14, J 15) were used to locate the positions of
major new buildings, such as schools and apartment blocks, within the fabric of the
historic city. They also provided the spot heights that appear on the map.
The 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments of Cairo, first edition (Cairo:
Survey of Egypt, 1924), and second edition (Cairo: Survey of Egypt, 1950).
CARTOGRAPHY
83
Architectural Drawings
Each map sheet displays a combined magnetic north and qibla bearing. The qibla
bearing that is employed here is 135 degrees east of magnetic north (the correct
bearing for Cairo). No attempt has been made to differentiate the numerous other
qibla directions used in the city during different historical periods.
All the registered monuments that appear on the map have plans drawn in solid
black, whether they are included in the 1947 Index or were subsequently registered.
In the latter case, these monuments appear in the U-prefix series of numbers.
Deregistered monuments are shown, where they survive, in outline: a convention
shared with unregistered monuments. Demolished structures whose plans are
known are shown in dashed lines. Not all the buildings shown on the map are
represented in ground plan: sometimes the first-floor plan of a building is more
revealing of its general orientation, and so it is the significant plan level that has
been chosen for representation. Very occasionally, a plan is split to show both
ground floor and first floor, for example the mosque of Sulayman Agha (no. 382).
A wide variety of sources was used for the plans of individual buildings that
appear in the map. The principal source was published information, supplemented
by plans from the archives of the Supreme Council for Antiquities (SCA). These
archives date from the period of the Comitd; they have been supplemented with sur
vey information of more recent date provided by the Architects' Department with
in the SCA. All the plans have been checked for general accuracy and updated
where necessary. Many individuals have contributed specific plans, and all sources
are fully acknowledged in the descriptive catalogue that accompanies the map.
Where no published or archival plans of buildings existed, individual surveys
were carried out. In most cases this consisted of tape surveys, but occasionally
theodolite surveys were also used (as for the eastern city-walls).
84
NOTE
ON SOURCES
The drawings for the map were executed in pen and ink on thirty-one polyester
film sheets of AC (841 x 1189 mm) size at a scale of 1:500. They are reproduced at
a scale of 1:1250. The key to the representation of individual features on the draw
ings is given on page 252.
The main sources for published plans have been;
Maury, B., J. Revault, M. Zakariya, and 1.-C. Garcin. 1982. Palaiset maisons du
J. J. Augustin.
Kessler, C. 1971. Swrvey and Documentation of the Domed FuneraryArchitecture
of Mamluk Cairo:DepositCopies of Plans and Photographs.Washington, D.C.:
The Smithsonian Institution (a duplicate set of these plans and documents Is in
the holdings of the Rare Books and Special Collections Library of the American
University in Cairo).
ARCHITECTURAL
DRAVINGS
85
Descriptive Catalogue
3
Mausoleum and minaret of Abu'1 Ghadanfar
AH552 and 867 / AD1157 and 1462
The site of this building was originally a Fatimid
Mapsheet mashhad for Sayyid Mu'ad (Sidi Ma'az), who died in
AD907 The site was subsequently built on by the
amir AbuI Ghadanfar, who added a madrasa in
1157. All that remains from this date is the stuccoed-brick
minaret, which manifests a transition from Fatimid to Ayyubid
styles; the adjacent tomb of the saint is a fifteenth-century
Mamluk addition, built of brick. There is one inscription in kufic
6
Bab al-Futuh
AH480 / AD1087
87
7
Bab al-Nasr
AH480 / AD1087
Map sheet The Bab aI-Nasr ('the Gate of Victory') is architec
turally distinguished from its counterpart, the Bab
11
al-Futuh (no 6), by having square rather than
rounded towers. It was originally named the Bab
al-lzz ('the Gate of Glory') but soon came to known as the Bab
al-Nasr after the counterpart gate in Cairo's first wall (now
demolished) built by Gawhar al-Siqilli some two hundred
meters to the south of the present emplacement. The same
persistence of an older nomenclature applied to the Bab alFutuh, which was originally called the Bab al-lqbal ('the Gate
of Prosperity'), but reverted to the name of the previous gate
built by Gawhar.
The square towers that flank the gate are decorated with
heraldic shields carved in stone. A white marble inscription in
kufic of the Shia' shohoda (a very public proclamation of the
Fatimid faith) is mounted above the portal.
The gate was restored by the Comit4 at various times, and
the latter organization also cleared the area outside the gate in
the 1940s, removing the registered sabil of Salim Agha (no.
[429). The SCA undertook an extensive restoration of the Bab
al-Nasr in 2001, which is yet to be completed at the time of
writing. This has so far resulted in the replacement of many
masonry elements.
Plan'Creswell 1952, 167
References- Creswell 1919, 53; Creswell 1952, 166-76, Seton-Aillars and
Stocks 19a8, 226, Bchrens-Abouserf 1989, 67-71; Bierman 1998, 73,
103, 124, 154 n 7: Sayyid 1998, 152-54, 399-405
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1887-88, 39; BCCMAA
1s9, 60-61,
8CCMAA 1893 (2nd cd), 17, 49, 63-64, SCCMAA 1894, 45; BCCMAA
1899, 69; BCCMAA 1900, 27-28, 65; CCMAA 1901,10,21,49, 77;
BCCMAA 1902, 40, 104, 113, 131; BCCMAA
1905, 55-56, 110 8CCMAA 1906, 32-33, 49, 55; BCCMAA 1907, 71,93, BCCMAA 1909,
29-30, Hern 1914 [1882-1910], 132; BCCMAA
1911,65; BCCMAA
1912, 82, BCCMA 1915-19, 328, 387, BCCMAA 1930-32, 43; BCCMAA 1936-40 287, 339, CCMAA 1941-45, 14, 52, 83, 86, 126, 151,
208, 290, 320, 340, 362; BCCMAA 1946-53, S, 12,29, 31,33, 46, 63,
06, 107-11, 194, 278, 325, SCA2002, 59-60, 323-28
9
Wikala of Qaytbay
AH8835 / AD1480
Of the numerous commercial foundations Sultan
Qaytbay is known to have established in Cairo, only
this example and another near the mosque of alAzhar (see no, 75) survive in a form that indicates
their former scale and grandeur, This three-story wikala, locat
ed immediately inside the Bab al-Nasr, also bears the name 'alQutn' Originally endowed by Qaytbay for the support of the
poor in the city of Medina, it narrowly escaped demolition in
1906. The fagade has many fine details, notably a trilobed por
tal with marble inlay and a carved wooden inscription band
running above the shops on the ground floor. The building's
Map sheet
18
88
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
10
Mausoleum of Ahmad al-Qasid
Ca.AH 735 / AD1335
This mausoleum is a tiny stone cube with a rib
and-fillet plastered-brick dome, at the base of
PioniKessler 1971
References Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 225, Meinecke 1992, 11:16B
Listing and conscrvctron: BCCMAA 1902, 65 (classification): Her, 1914
[1682-1910], 9, BCCMAA 1915-19, 735, BCCMAA 1933-35, 130,133,
1B8.191; BCCMAA 1948-53, 295; SCA2002, 65-57
11
Wikala of Qawsun
Before AH742 / AD1341
Map sheet The first such structure built in Cairo, the wikoaa of
the amir Qawsun was used by Palestinian soap and
coffee merchants during the seventeenth and eigh
teenth centuries, and was called 'the Wikala of
Soap' Nothing of the building, listed in 1901, survives today
except the square-headed doorway, which has a fine blazon on
it (a cup, as Oawsun served as cup-bearer to Sultan al-Nasir
Muhammad). This gate was saved and moved slightly north
from its original emplacement (and raised to current ground
level) when the rest of the building was demolished. The area
behind the gate is now occupied by modern school buildings.
Pan. SCAArchive
References. Creswell 1919, 97 Raymond and Wiet 1979, 291 (no
Aalund 1980, 39, Hanna 1984, 46, Seton-Williams and Stocks
225, Meinecke 1992, 11.191
Lasting and conservation: BCCMAA 1901, 88 (classification), Herz
[1882-1910], 107,BCMAA 1912, 71; BCCMAA 1915-19, 790;
MAA1948-53, 180, 415
304):
1988,
1914
BCC-
(13)
House in the waqf of al-Hatu
Twelfth century (?)AHI Eighteenth century (?)AD
Mapsheet This Ottoman courtyard house, registered in 1896,
was situated in the Darb al-Rashid according to the
18
1924 Map of Mohammedan Monuments It was
demolished prior to 1932.
Plan: None
References: Panty 1933b, 77 (no. 13)
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1896, 122 (classification), BCCMAA
1905, 55, 80, Herz 1914 [18B2-19101, 75
14
AH 1014 1AD1SC
Mapsheet This sabil-kuttab, which appears in the Description
de ltgypte under the name 'al-Guwwaniya, seems
to have become part of the waqf of Sulayman Agha
15
Mosque of al-Hakim
AH380-403 / AD990-1013
congregational mosque was started by
huge
This
Map shee
by his
e the Fatimid khalif al-'Aziz and completed
1
son al-Hakim, who became one of the most noto
rious despots ever to rule Egypt When started,
the mosque occupied land outside the city walls built by
Gawhar aL-Siqilli, but it was subsequently included within
the perimeter of the second set of walls built by Badr ilGamali (see no. 352). The building followed the precedent of
the mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun (no. 220), being constructed
on the principle of arcades with piers and pointed arches and
with a zlyada, or intermediate space, separating the interior
of the mosque from the city around it. The mosque was
restored after a great earthquake in AD1302 by Baybars alGashankir, who added the mabkharas to the original Fatimid
minaret shafts. Sultan Hasan also restored the mosque in
1359, after which it fell into disuse and served variously as a
prison, stables, fortress, and storehouse. During the last years
of the nineteenth century it became home to Muse de I'Art
Arabe prior to that institution's relocation to the purpose
16
Sabil-kuttab of Qitas Bey
AH1040 / AD1830
Ma
sabil is attached to a small wikala (probably the wikalat alTinah), apparently constructed contemporaneously, the remains
of which are indicated on the map The sabil contains a fine
salsabil, with a wooden muqarnas hood. Immediately adjacent
to the sabil is a stone gateway (reconstructed in 2000) leading
to the Darb al-Asfar.
Plan. SCAArchive ( CM PSurvey
References Pauty 1936, 23, Raymond 1979a, 247 (no. 19), Raymond and
Wiet 1979, 394 (no 332); Meineeke and Menecke-Berg 1980,31
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1907, 35; BCCMAA 1908,36-37: BCCMAA 1909, 108-9, 147-48, BCCMAA 1910, 75 (all under the name
Baybars al-Gashankir): Herz 1914 [1882-1910, 38; BCCMAA
1915-19, 786
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
89
17
Sabil-kuttab of Udah Basha
AH 1084 / AD1673
into the Idarat al-Mabyada (no. 356) with the same date.
Mapsheet
Plan' SCAArchive
References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 1979a, 254-55 (no 40)
136; BCCMAA 1914, 128; BCCMAA 1915-19, 490; Pauty 1933b, 76-77
18
Mosque of al-Bakri
Before An 776 / AD1374
Map sheet
12
BCCMAA
1892, 54; BCCMAA
1898. 30; BCCMAA 1907. 124-25; Herz
1941-45, 52
19
is still discernible.
90
DESC
IPTIVE
CATALOGUE
(house); RCCMAA
1909, 9 [house); Herz 1914 [1882-1910],
136: BCC
AM 1915-19, 790; SCA2002, 175-80
20
Palace al-Musafirkhana
its large malgaf and elaborate hammam. The palace's name, 'al-
Plan Maury
al. 1983, 228
References. Pauty 1933b, 59-60, 62, 77 (no. 7); Pauty 1936, 37, Revault
and Maury 1979, Ill:133-68; Maury et al. 1983, 223-36, King 1984,
101; BCCMA4A
1903, 30; ier
1914 [1882-1910], 129; BCCMAA
1915-19, 187-90, 604-5, 608, 613, 617, 681, 683-84, 697, 700, 773;
BCCMA4A
1920-24, 27, 96, 362: BCC4AA
1925-26, 16, 50 BCCMAA
1927-29, 92, 95; BCCMAA 1930-32, 60, 177, 199, 260; BCCMAA
1933-35, 4,26,32, 39, 98, 100, 157, 171,179; BCCMAA 1936-40, 71,
21
At 1157 /AD1744
Map sheet
11
References. Pauty 1936, 25; Sameh 1946, 28-33; Raymond 1972, 235-51;
22
Mosque of Aydumur al-Bahlawan
Before AX747 /AD1346
Map sheet This small mosque isentered through a modem ablu
tions court and has an octagonal minaret and ribbed
12
stone dome with inscription band. The founder served
as a provirigeial governor under Sultan al-Salih Ismail
(the son of al-Nasir Muhammad) He was subsequently exiled to
Syria, where he died and is buried. The entrance and northern
fagades are decorated, the latter inset with unusual window
grilles made of wood.
Plan Kessler 1971
References: Creswell 1919, 102, Kessler 1969, 165, Seton-Williams and
Stocks 1988, 21$
Listing and consevation BCCMAA 1886, 3-4, BCCMAA 1887-88, 23,
45-46; BCCMAA 1889, B2, 132; BCCMAA
1890, 107; BCCMAA
1891,
1893 (2nd ed.), 6K 71-72,
7892, 20, 59, 78; BCCM4A4
47-48; SCCMAA
1902, 34,
101-2; BCCMAA
1894,
39,114; BCCIdAA 1896. 19, BCCMAA
63-64, BCCMAA1909, 33; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 11; BCCMAA
1915-19, 785; SCA2002, 141-44
23
Sabil-kuttab of al-Sayyid 'Ali ibn Hayz'
AH1056
/ AD1646
24
Mosque of Almalik al-Gukandar
25
Mosque of Bardbak
AH865 1 AD1460
Map sheet The mosque and tomb of the amir Taqtabay ibn
Bardbak are built over the earlier tombs of Fatima (the
12
mother of Husayn) and another female saint, The
building is known also as the mosque of UnimalGlulam for this reason, The saints' tombs are contained in an
underground vault to the south of the main portal; a slab with
kufic inscription (mounted iside on the qibla wall of the mosque)
states that Fatima's tomb was constructed in AD1254 by the amir
Bilbak al-Khazindar. The mosque is now approached from amod
ern extension to the west; the main trilobed arched portal to the
east, with a pierced muqarnas hood, is shut. The mosque itself is
acolumnar structure, with arcades of reused columns and capitals
arranged around an open sahr, The tomb of the founder is located
to the north, on the side street A sabil-kuttab, now lost, was
apparently attached to the complex at its northeastern corner,
Plan: Mtinecke 1992, 1-160; SCAArchive
References. Creswell 1919, 141-42, Seton-Wiiliams and Stocks 188, 219;
Meinecke 1992,11:390
Listing and conservation-Herz 1914 (1882-1910], 80, RCCMAA
1915-19,
149-55, 399, 402, 432, 445, 464, 550, 585, 613, 624, 695, 697; BCCMAA 1920-24 255, 257, 279, 336, 359; BCCMAA 1925-26, 15; BCCMAA 1930-32, 191,200, 203, 20B-12, 231, SCA2002, 149-50
26
Mosque of Mughaltay al-Gamali
AH730 / AD1329
Ma sheet
127
DESCRIPTIVE
-ft
CATALOGUE
91
band, and the brick domed tomb chamber. This contains two
stucco inscriptions internally: one around the base of the
dome and the other in a medallion at the dome's apex. The rest
of the mosque is modern, with the exception of an Ottoman
portal leading to the ablutions court (also situated on the
northern side).
Plan; SCAArchive
27
Sabil of al-Bazdar
AM1050-51 /AD 1640-41
29
al-Ahmadi
of
Marzuq
Mosque
1933-35, 60, 175, 329, 393; SCA2002, 48-50 las nao,57 sabil-kuttab
of snall bn Ahmad)
28
Gateway and minaret
AH5497634 1 AD1154-1237
92
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
AH1043 / AD1633
This is a simple mosque with arched stone arcades
around a covered sahn, a stone mihrab, and three
tombs arranged on either side of the main prayer
space. On the northern side of the building, a corridor
runs east to what was once the ablutions area. Protruding from
its corner site, the mosque has three fagedes and two entrances.
It is fronted by shops on the principal street fagade and has a
short, Ottoman-style minaret. Seton-Williams and Stocks (1988)
give amore precise date for the building's foundation-AD 1633
than does the Index of Monuments ('seventeenth century') and
describe it as a khanqah rather than a mosque
PlanSCA Archive
References Pauty 1936, 12; Seton-Wiliams and Stocks 19B8,
219-20; elMap sheet
12
BCCMAA
1894,
31
Mausoleum of Qarasunqur
AH700 / AD1300-1
This mausoleum was built in combination with a
Map sheet madrasa by Qarasunqur ('the Black Falcon'), a mamluk
of Sultan Galawun. The complex was originally known
to the Comit as that ofAqsunqur and isnot to be con
fused with the actual foundation of Aqsunqur (no. 123) on the Darb
al Ahmar. Only the tomb and the faqade of the madrasa survive.The
tomb's marble- and wood-inlaid mihrab, restored by the Comit6, is
one of the richest in Cairo. The fagade retains many fine stone
details, particularly on the window lintels. The entrance to the site,
currently occupied by aschool, isthrough a neo-Mamluk portal.
Plan. Creswell 1959, 241
References. Creswell 1919, 66; Pauty 1929, 146: Creswell 1959, 240-42;
Rogers 1969, 387-88; Ibrahim 1970-71, 35-37; Seton-Williams and
Stocks 1988, 222, Meineeke 1992 1190, 110
Listing and conseratln (under the name [mistaken] 'dome of Aqsunqur.
193, 76;
1892, 105; BCCMAA
BCCMAA 1891,43-44, 102-3; BCCMAA
1897, 65; BCCMAA 1902, 16; BCCMAA 1907. 43, 56; BCCBCCMAA
MAA 1908. 37; BCCMA4 1910, 90, Herz 1914 11882-19101, 95-96,
BCCMAA1911,28; BCCMAA 1912, 67; (as 'tomb of Aqsunqur' from
1914 onward) BCCMAA 1914, 141,BCVAA 1915-19, 314, 318, 360,
404, 461, 693; BCCMAA 1920-24, 334, 360, BCCMAA 1925-26, 16
32
Khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir
AH706-9 / AD1306-10
Map sheet
11andlB
1987b, 48-49; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 223-24, BehrensAbouseif 1989, 104, Meinecke 1992, U1100, 104; Jaubert 1995, 191,
Blerman 1998, 137, 140, Sayyid 1999, 120; Asfour 2000, 235-36;
O'Kane 2000. 155-56, 161
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1891, 42-43; 80CMAA 1894, 104-5,
1896, 140; BCCMAA 1397, B2; BCCMAA 1898, 26, BCCMAA
BCCMAA
1899, 13-14: BCCMAA 1909, 134: BCCMAA 1892, 83-84 (with plan);
-lerz 1914 [1882-1910], 37; BCCMAA 1912, 25; BCCMAA 1913, 33,
44. 80, BCCMAA 1915-19, 76-78, 314. 318-19, 324, 356, 404, 463,
491, 546, 654, 669, 584, 613, 630, 642, 695, 697, 823; BCCMAA
1920-24, 157, 223, 255, 257, 259, 339, 360, 370; BCCIAA 1925-28,
15: BCCMAA 1933-35, 185; BCCMAA
1946-53, 296
33
Mosque of al-Aqmar
AH519 / AD1125
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
93
BCCMA4 1911,15, 49, 65, SCCMM 1912, 81, BCCMAA 1913, 52;
CCMA 1915-19, 774, 820; BCCMAA 1920-24, 157, 359; BCCMAA
1930-32, 267; BOCCMAA
1936-40, 15, 59, 63; BCCMAA 1941-45, 167,
173, 199; UCCIMAA
1946-53, 75-76, 295, Sanders 1999, Ormos 2002,
131; Sanders 2004,123,132-33
34
Palace of Bashtak
AH736-40 J AD1335-39
This vast multistory stone palace was built by a
prominent amir of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad on
the site of the Fatimid Eastern Palace The remains
of Bashtak's palace include a mosque, courtyard,
stables, and a huge qa'a on the first floor. This has four iwans,
a coffered wooden ceiling, and internal mashrabiya situated at
high level, which fronts a singers' gallery The mosque has its
main entrance on Shari' Mu'izz li-Din Allah, and is known also
by the name 'al-Figl' The building was partially restored by the
German Institute in 1982-84 and was awaiting further restora
tion in 2003. The stone dog-legged passageway to the south of
the building has grain vaults and was at one time listed sepa
rately (see no. 47).
Map sheet
19
References- Creswell 1919, 100; Pauty 1933b, 43; Lezine 1972b, 98-104,
94
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
MAA 1892, 73, BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed.), 16; BCCMAA 1902, 36; BCCMAA 1908, 17, 100; BCCMAA 1907, 7, 63-64; BCCMAA 1908, 93;
BCC4AA 1910, 28; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 35; BCCMAA 1911,65, 75,
ECCMAA 1912, 84; BCCMAA 1913. 39, 71; BCCMAA 1915-19, 822;
BCCMAA 1920-24,337,352, BCC4AA1930-32,16,19,3739,0,68,
143, 169,185,255,266, Panty 1931b, 154n, 1; BCCMAA,1933-35, 30,
102, 105, 134, 148, 161, 182, 227, 309, 310, 395, 398, BCCAIAA
1936-40, 15, 32, 36, 37, 41-43, 57, 59, 64, 103, 216, 218, 246, 275,
278, 285, 288, 333; B0MM 1941-45, 5, 160-61; BCMAA 1946-53,
285, 290; Speiser 1990; Speiser 1994
35
Madrasa of Gamal al-Din al-Ustadar
AH811/ AD1408
ps
Map sheet
36
Mausoleum and mosque of Tatar al-Hegaziya
AH749 and 761 / AD1348 and 1380
Mapsheet This complex was founded by Sultan al-Nasir
12and l9 Muhammad's eldest daughter, who died of the
plague in AD 1360. Her still-venerated tomb has a
ribbed stone dome with an inscription band at its
base. The building isentered through a portal on the north that
37
Remains of the madrasa of al-Zahir Baybars
AM660 / AD1262
Only a tiny fragment of this once-large madrasa
survives. The building's original form has been the
subject of much speculation (the hypothesized cru
c1form plan shown here is taken from Meinecke
1992). The major part of the structure was demolished in 1874
during the construction of the road running up to the Midan
Bayt al-Qadi, and the original doors of the madrasa now adorn
the French Embassy in Giza, The surviving southwestern corner
of the building demonstrates that it was elaborately decorated,
with stone carvings of high quality.
s
Ma "e
lampikian 1995b
(39)
38
AH641 / AD1243
first
Map sheet
The madrasa of Salih Negm al-Din Ayyub-the
four
all
accommodate
to
Egypt
in
built
madrasa
19
schools of jurisprudence-is split into two roughly
equivalent sections separated by a street that pass
es directly under the minaret of the complex. These two sections
of the madrasa are linked by a common fagade, which has the
minaret at its approximate center. The tomb was a later addition
to this madrasa, built in AD1249 by Sultan Negm al-Din Ayyub's
wife, Shagarat al-Durr, but it established the much-followed
precedent of building a tomb in association with a madrasa. The
AH758 / AD1367
located in the Harat al-Salihiya, was
mosque,
This
Map sheet
known also as the madrasa of Muhammad al
19
"Abbasi, or of Nasir al-Din Muhammad, the
madrasa's founder. Surviving photographs show
that the mosque had a muqarnas portal (a reconstruction,
according to the 1906 Bullotm), an inlaid mihrab, and
inscribed marble panels of high quality. The mlhrab and the
epigraphic panels were listed until 1943; the entire mosque
was demolished in 1989. It is not clear whether the epigraphic
panels were saved.
Plan-None
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALoGU E
95
References Crowell 1919, 107; Mleinecke 1992, 11226, Sayyid 1998, 294
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1906, 16; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 2);
BCCMAA 1913, 72, 144-45 (with photographs]; BCCMAA
1915-19,
786; BCCMAA 1941-45, 238, 251
40
Mosque and sabil-kuttab
of Shaykh 'Ai al-Mutahhar
All 1157 /AD 1744
Mapshee
19
41
Tomb of Shaykh Sinan
AH994 / AD 1585
Now partially concealed by a significant rise in
ground level, this tomb of an unknown holy man
has two small stone domes supported by finely
carved squinches.
Plan. Melneeke 1980a, 80
Map shee
19
96
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
42
Mosque of Taghribardi
Tenth century AH/ Sixteenth century AD
Map sheet This raised Ottoman mosque, which has two iwans,
two portals, a minaret, and a sabil-kuttab, was
19
called al-Mihmandariya' (implying that it had the
function of a madrasa) during the Ottoman period.
The southern portal has an unusual crenellated screen in the
street immediately outside the entrance. The soffit of the main
space contains two original inscribed square wooden panels
and is bordered by an inscription; the raised women's gallery is
constructed of wood. The sabil has an inlaid polychrome marble
floor and a marble salsabil decorated with chevrons and an
inscription. Taghribardi was an important merchant; his epony
mous wikala (no. 188) adjoins the mosque to the east.
Plan. SCAArchive
References' Seton-Williairs and Stocks 1988, 254
Listing and conservation. SCCMAA 1885, 11-12, 8CCMAA 1886, 9-10,
BCCMAA
1893,75, BCCMAA 1894,45-46, 79, BCCMAA 1903,54 (kut
tab); BCCMAA 1909, 88 (kuttab), Herz 1914 [1802-1910], 143, BCCMAA 1915-19, 792; BCCMAA 1930-32, 252-53
43
Complex of Qalawun
AH683 / AD1284
Map sheet
19
References.Creswell 1919, 81-82, Herz 1913; Herz 1919: Creswell 1922, 39-42;
Pauty 1932, 32-33; Pauty 1933c, Lamm 1935-36, 70. 73-74, Creswell
1959, 190-212; Meinecke 1971, 47-80; Ldzine 1972l 93-94. 130,
Raymond 1972, 249, Meneeke 1973, 222: Duncan 1980, 74-77, J,
Williams 1984, 34-35, 38, Behrens-Abouscif 1905, 77-78; Behriets
44
45
Mosque of Mithqal
AH763 / AD 1361
Built by the chief eunuch to sultans Muhammad II
and Sha'ban II, this raised cruciform mosque is
built above a passage that connects two alleys
running on either side. It has a recessed ablaq
fagade and four wans with upper floors, from which mashra
brya windows give onto the northern and southern sides of
the sahn. There isa marble dado and mihrab in the qibla iwan
and an inlaid marble floor in the sahn. The building was listed
by the Comit in 1887 and restored by the German Institute
in the 1970s.
Mapsh511
19
46
Facade of the mosque
An 694-96 / AD1294-96
sheStarted by Sultan
O'Kane 2000,
1995, 191,Speiser 1998, 423-26; Denoix et al. 1999, 11:21;
157; Mayer, Nogara, and Speiser, 2001; Little 2002, 15-18
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1890, 45-46; BCCMAA 1904, 91; BCCMAA 1905, 34, 95-96; BCCMAA 1907, 34-35, BCCMAA1908, 93:
BCCMAA 1909, 25-26, 75; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 134: BCCMAA
1915-19, 832: BCCMAA 1920-24, 278, 340; BCCMAA 1926-26. 16,
17, 22 BCCMAA 1941-45, 172, SCCMAA 1946-63. 53, 203, 345;
Mayer, Nogara, and Speiser, 2001, 232-38, SCA2002, 155-58, 329-36
(47)
Bab Qadi Askar
19
AH735 1AD1334
The Bab Qadi 'Askar is the stone arched entrance
and dog-legged vaulted passageway that
was the
original entrance to the palace of Bashtak (no. 34).
Plan:Meineeke 1990, 96
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
97
48
Mosque of Muhib al-Din Abu'l Tayyib
Before AH934 / AD1527-28
Mapshe
19
49
Mosque of Abu Bakr ibn Muzhir
AH884 / AD1479
50
Qa'a of Muhib al-Din al-Muwaqqi
AH751 / AD1350
19
and ga's of 'Uthmai Katkhuda because of the lat
ter's occupancy of the building in the eighteenth
Mapshee
98
DESCRJPTIVE
CATALOGUlF
Listing and conserwvton: BCCMAA, 1891,4, 48; BCCMAA 1892, 44, BCCMAA 1894, 48, 72-73, 150-51, BCCMAA
1895, 28-29; BCCMAA
1899,
53-54; BCCMA4 1904, 43-44; 8CCMAA 1905, 12, 35, 79-80,
BCCMAA 1906, 19-20; BCCMAA
1908, 58; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 138,
BCCMAA 1913, 140-43; BCCMAA
1915-19. 88-89 n, 2; BCCAIAA
1941-45, 287; BCCMAA 1946-53, 296
51
Maq'ad of Mamay al-Sa'ift
AH901 1 AD1496
Map sheet
19
52
Sabil-kuttab of Khusraw Pasha
Ali 942 / AD1535
Map sheet
53
Bab al-Badistan al-Ghuri
sheet
Miap
8, BCCMAA 1906, 96, Herz 1914 (182-1910), 100, RCCMAA 1912, 73,
86; BCCMAA 1913, 39, 72: BCCMAA 1915-19, 826; Pauty 1931b, 155
n 2; BCCMAA 1936-40, 69, 375, 380; BCCMAA 1946-53. 332
AH917 /AD1511
The badistan, a commercial structure housing shops
57
Sabil-kuttab of Isma'il ibm Ahmad
(al-Maghlawi / al-Manawi)
19
Plan: SCAArchive
1999, 1135-38
1884, 5-6, BCCMAA 1886, 12-13; 8CC
Listing and conservation. RCCMAA
AAA 1897, 96: BCCMAA 1903, 63; BCCMAA 1904, 36, 67; BCCMAA
1905, 35; BCCMAA 1907, 33-34; BCCMAA 1908, 29, 134, BCMAA
1912. 73, 86: BCC1909, 94; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 100 BCCM4AA
MAA 1913, 39, 72, BCCMAA 1915-19, 826; Pauty 1931b, 155 n. 1,
1936-40, 375, 380; CCMAA 1941-45, 51, 86, 126, 172;
BCCMAA
BCCMAA 1946-53, 332
54
Fagade of the wikala of al-Ghurl (al-Qutn)
AH917 / AD1511
Map sheet Despite its designation in the Index of Monuments
as an emporium for cotton, Raymond and Wiet
12
(1979) identify this wikala as the Khan al-Nabhas,
catering at different times to coppersmiths,
leather-goods merchants, and dried-fruit sellers. The portal
leading to the wikala is in good condition, probably because of
heavy restoration by the Comit6, but little of the building's
56
Bab al-Ghuri
Map sheet
12
AR917 ( AD1511
as a cross-axis leading to the
served
gate
This
badistan (no. 53) and the wikala al-Qutn (no. 54). It
AN1068 1AD1657
The common name of this sabil-kuttab is al
Maghlawl, while the founder is referred to in the
12
Index of Monuments as Ismall al-Manawi. Amarble
panel with a foundation inscription and date is
located above the sabil grille on the western fagade, however,
which names the founder as Ismail bn Ahmad. This name is
accordingly used here, The sabil-kuttab was moved in its
entirety in 1935-36 (like the sabil of al-Bazdar [no. 27]) from
its original position, where the Midan al-Husayn is today. The
sabil has a fine painted wooden ceiling and the whole structure
has been recently restored by the SCA (2003). The building is still
confused with its neighbor (al-Bazdar), not only in the Map of
Mohammedan Monuments where the labelings are unclear, but
also on the gr6und (see SCA 2002). This confusion isevident in
the fact that the building also bears a metal plaque identifying
it as number 27. The inscription, however, is clear enough to
permit a final attribution and identification to be made.
Plan. CMP Survey
58
Fagade of the zawiya
Plan. None
References: Creswell 1919, 138; Menecke 1992, 11:375
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1899, 44 (classification): Herz 1914
[1882-1910), 54; BCCMAA 1915-19, 805
59
Mausoleum of al-Sha'rani
al-Wahhab
'Abd
Mapsheet
shaykh. with his own brotherhood, who sought to
26
unify the four schools of Islamic law The mau
Plan: SCAArchwe
solcum was added to a large complex, including a
References Mcinecke 1992, 11:466-67, Denoix et al. 1999, 1135-38
taklya, mosque, and madrasa, that had been built for al
1884, 5-6, BCCMAA 1886, 12-13; BCC
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA
Sha'rani during his lifetime by Qadi 'Abd al-0adir (using illegal
MAA 1897, 96; BCCMAA 1899, 8; BCCMAA 1901, 90; BCCMAA 1902,
panels, cartouches, and an inscription band. The
gate was restored by Comit6 in 1937; it remains an important
visual focus in the surrounding Khan al-Khalili.
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
99
References: Creswell 1919, 135, Meinecke 1992, 11386, O'Kane 2000, 17D
Lisringendconsertntion-BCCMAA 1896,40,139;8CCMA41900,6-7;BCCMAA
1901, 4B; Herz 1914 [182-1910], 81; BCCMAA
1914,117,139, 80CMM
1915-19, 788; BCCMAA 1920-24, 178, 257; BCCMAA
1930-32, 62, 75;
BCCMAA 1941-45, 151;BCCMAA
1946-53, 210, 308, 331
98-99,150-51
Listing ond conservation: BCCMAA 1898, 127 (classification),
62
Hawd and sabil
of Muhanuad Bey Abu'l Dhahab
CCMAA
1903, 48; BCCMAA 1904, 34; BCCMAA 1905. 11;BCCMAA 1910, 90;
60
Mosque of Qadi 'Abd al-Basit
Mapshee
25and2S
AH1188 / AD1774
These buildings, which formed part of the develop
ment of Abu'[ Dhahab on this site that was centered
13
on his mosque (no. 9B), were built-over ca. 1900
with a three-story building (see U27), one access
to which isthrough the hawd structure itself. Comit6 wooden
screens to the front of the watering trough meet at the cen
tral marble column of the facade. The timber ceiling dates to
the late nineteenth- / early twentieth-century construction.
The sabil has fine bronze grilles that match those on the
founder's mosque
Map he
AH823 / AD1420
'Abd al-Basit was the controller of the armies under
Sultan al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh; his influence declined,
61
63
Qa'a and maq'ad in the waqf al-Sha'rani
AH1138 / AD1725
This house once belonged to the waf of the com
plex of al-Sha'rani (no. 59). The house had a
26
maq'ad with three arches and a painted ceiling; the
qaa was noteworthy for its water basin and marble
dado. Its position is incorrectly marked on the 1:5000 Map of
Mohammedan Monuments. Little remains of the structure of
this building except the portal adjacent to the maq'ad and the
bases of the columns to the maq'ad. The qa'a behind is still
roofed; it is currently used as a stable.
-
Plan SCAArchive
References Pauty 1933b, 62, 76 (no. 5); Pauty 1936, 37
Listing and conseivation: BCCMAA
1895, 87-88 (classification); Herz 1914
[1882-1910], 45; BCCMAA
1915-19, 502, 15; BCCMAA
1930-32, 168,142
64
C6.AH860 1 AD1456
Wikalat al-Ghui
Map sheet
25
100
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
Map sheet
20
AH909-10/ AD1504-5
This is one constituent of a vast complex, of which
Meinecke 1992, 1 455: Blair and Bloom 1995, 94, Garcin 1997, 78-79
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1892, 69, SCCiAA 1896, 153-54, BCCMAA 1B7, 159-60; BCCMAA 1902, 35; BCCMAA 1903, 22-23; BCCMAA 1904, 16, SCCMM 1907, 49; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 64: BCCMAA 1915-19, 492, 782; BCCMAA 1920-24, 352; BCCMAA 1925-26,
32, Pauty 1931b, 160 n. 2; BCCMAA 1933-35, 149, 161, 174, 182;
BCCMAA 1936-40, 32, 36, 57, 266, 294, 296-98, 327, 333, BCCMAA
1941-45, 14, 29, 43, 60, 87, 127, 129, 152, 165, 273, 290, 320, 340,
345, 362: BCCMAA 1946-53, 12, 33, 46, 53-54, 64, B6, 98, 103, 105,
112,115, IB4, 188-89, 191,194, 254, 278, 309,325, 371-72, 381, 413,
419-20, 422, SCA2002, 105-12
65
66
Maq'ad of al-Ghuri
AH909-10 / AD1504-5
This triple-arched maq'ad is the only surviving part
Map sh
20
References: Creswell 1919, 152. Pauty 1933b, 79 [no 18), Mehrea 1972,
67
Mausoleum and sabil-kuttab of al-Ghuri
AH909-10 / AD1504-5
apshbeetAfine ablaq portal opposite that of the mosque (no.
189) in this portion of the complex built by al
20
Ghun (see nos. 64-66) leads to a vestibule, adjacent
to which lie the tomb chamber and a separate
prayer space. The former has lost its dome (the original was
tiled) and is now covered with a flat roof. The tomb chambers
interior was heavily restored by the Comit6; its wall surfaces
are entirely covered in arabesque carving, with an inscription
band situated high on the wall. The adjacent prayer space has
an ornate wooden ceiling with a skylight and a marble dado
with an inlaid marble mihrab. These elements as well have been
heavily restored. Projecting into the street is an extremely large
three-sided sabil-kuttab, which still preserves a spectacular
salsabil in the sabil room. The sabil-kuttab, as well as other
rooms in the building, is used by the SCA as an inspectorate.
The street between this building and al-Ohuri's madrase was
roofed during the Ottoman period (if not earlier), and the stone
emplacements for this timber structure are still in position on
the western fagade at high level.
Plan: Meinecke 1992, I 167
References. Creswell 1919, 152, Kessler 1969, 262-63, Mehrez 1972;
Behrers-Abouscif 1987, 149-52, Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988,
265, Metiecke 1992, 11-451-52; Asrour 2000, 247-48
Listing and conservaion: BCMAA 1882-83 (2nd ed.)29, 32, 49-50, BCCMAA
1889, 67, 108, 118; BCCMAA 1890, 109;
1889, 67, 108, 118,BCCMAA
1891, 56; B0MM 1892 (2nd ed.),75 (classification of tomb).
BCCMAA
1896, 43; 8CCMA4
1893
(2nd ed.),68, 76-77, BCCMAA
114, BCCMAA
1899, 90-91, RCCMAA 1900, 26, 60-61. 100,
1898, 116, 122; LCCMAA
1907, 90, BCCMA4
1906, 102-3 BCCMAA
BCCMM 1905, 80| BCCMAA
1910, 91,Herz 1914 [11B2-19101,6 3; BCCMAA
1909,3,93-94; BCCMMA
1912, 54, BCCMAA 1913,10, B8,132, CCMAA1914, 107,139, BCCMAA
1915-19, 503, 782; BCCMAA 1920-24, 18, 23, 43, 96: BCCMAA
1925-26, 16, Pauty 1931b, 159-60 n. 2, BCCMAA1933-35, 103,107,
125-26, 158, 172, 180, 1B7-B8, 238, 242, 274-75, 283-85, 317-18,
80CMAA 1936-40, B,336, 338: BCC4A 1946-53, 146, 346, el-Zaher
and el-Ela 1995; SCA2002, 72-74, 412-16 (cistern)
68
Tomb of Muhammad al-Anwar
An 1195 / AD1780
Map
that of a Fatimid shaykh who died inAD1020. The
DFSCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
101
apex of the dome. The mihrab isbuilt into a corner of the tomb
chamber on the diagonal, an orientation shared by the adjacent
modern mosque.
Plan. CMP Survey
References: Creswell 1919, 59, Behrens-Abouself 1983, 7, Seton-Williams
and Stocks 1988, 336; Sayyd 1998. 361
Listing and Conservation' BCCMAA 1894, 16 (minaret and door]; Herz 1914
[1882-1910], 20: BCCMM 1915-19, 34, 80D: BCCMAA
1946-53, 209
69
Sabil-kuttab of Zayn al-Abidin
Eleventh century AHI Seventeenth century AD
Plan:SCAArchive
References. Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 261 (no. 57)
Conservation- BCCMAA 1887-88, 7, 33-34, BCCMAA 1890, 36; BCCMAA
1901, 84; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 168; BCCMAA 1915-19, 784: BCCMAA 1925-26, 38, SCA2002, 45-46, 409-12
70
Sabil-kuttab of Sulayman Bey al-Kharbutli
AH1047 / AD1637
Map sheet
13and20
hood.
Plan: SCA
Archive
References: Pauty 1936, 23, Raymond 1979a, 249 (no.2G)
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1907, 67, 104; BCCMAA 1909, 76, Herz
1914 [1882-1910], 150, SCCMAA 1915-19. 783; BCCMAA 1941-45,
363: SCA2092, 43-44
71
Sabil-kuttab of Khalil Effendi al-Muqati'gui
AH1042 / AD1632
Plon:SCA Archive
References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 19798, 248 (no 22)
Ls6ng and conservation BCCAA 1901, 8 (classification), 102-3, BCCMAA
1902, 7, BCCMAA 1903, 70; Here 1914 [1882-1910], 100; BCCMAA
1913, 33: BCCMAA 1915-19, 779; BCLMAA 1946-53. 146
102
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
72
House of Gamal al-Din al-Dhahabi
AH1044 / AD1634
20
411). The building stands on a wedge-shaped plot
Mapsheet
References Pauty 1933b, 56-57, 79 (no. 20); Pauty 1936, 37, Fathy 1969,
73
Sabil-kuttab of Abu'1 Iqbal 'Arifin Bey
AH1125 / AD1713
Mapsheet
13
Plan SCAArchive
References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; Raymond 19790, 263 (no 63)
74
Hawd of Qaytbay
Before AH901 / AD1496
Map sheet
13
75
Wikala of Qaytbay
AH882 /AD 1477
and Stocks 1988, 285: Jaubert 1995, 194; Garcin 1997, 68-69, 79;
1930-32, 20, 145, 163, 262; BCCMAA 1933-35, 26. 39, 59, 62, 141,144, 148. 158, 160, 172, 180,182,
227; BCCMAA 1936-40, 15, 110,114,266; BCCMAA 1941-45, 67, 71,
81,108, 127, 139,348; BCCMAA 1946-53, 93. 95,167, 170, 181,296;
BIFA0 84 (1984); 349
96
Madrasat al-Ghanamiya
76
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay
AH882 / AD 1477
77
House in the waqf of Zaynab Khatun
Ald873 and 1125 / AD1468 and 1713
Map sheet This courtyard house, built by the soqi (cup-bearer)
of Sultan Gaqmaq, Mithqal al-Suduni, was enlarged
13
during the Ottoman period. Particularly noteworthy
are the maqad and avast first-floor qa'a for summer
use. The house was recently restored by the SCA and is used
periodically for cultural events.
Plan Maury et al 1982, 109 (first floor)
References Pauty 1933b, 53-55, Bo (no 24): Panty 1936, 37, Revault and
Maury 1979, 1-12, Maury et al. 1982, 99ff., 199-201; Seton-Williams
AH774 1 AD1372
once a ga'a of a palace constructed
was
room
This
Map sheet
inAD1372 by the vizier Shakir ibn Ghanam. Jt was
subsequently converted into a madrasa with the
addition of a minaret (see U26) externally and two
ihrabs nternally. A beautiful wooden muqarnas salsabil hood
survives at the northern end of the qa'a. The qa'a stands in iso
lation today, its surrounding context demolished with the
building of the al-Azhar University campus in the 1950s. It was
restored by the SCA in 1997-2000.
Plon, SCAArchive
References-Creswell 1919, 113-14; Creswell 1922. 48, Pauty 1933b, 46. 80
(no. 23), Lezine 1972bc 112-15, 130; Maury et al 1982, 86-B7; Hanna
1984, 33; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 265; Meinucke 1992,
||.253
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA
18B2-83 2nd ed.), 44-45: BCCMAA
1899, 42; Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 61; BCCMAA 1915-19, 89, 110-14,
511, 516, 546, 554, 583, 695, 773, 778; BCCMAA 1920-24, 339, 360,
BCCMAA 1930-32, 144, 163; BCCMAA 1941-45, 72; BCCMAA
1946-53, 297, BlFAO86 ( 986), 369
97
Mosque of al-Azhar
Air 359-51 / AD970-72
Founded by the Fatimids as the principal congrega
tional mosque of the royal city of al-Qahira, the
mosque of al-Azhar ('the Shining'] has undergone
numerous additions and extensions over time, It
has functioned as ateaching center more or less since its foun
dation, attracting students from all parts of the Islamic world,
The most notable surviving Fatimid components of the mosque
are the keel-arches in the courtyard, the dome behind the cen
tral arch of the courtyard on the qibia side, and the stucco
conch of the mihrab on the central axis. During the Mamluk
period, individually dedicated madrasas were added to the
north and west of the main courtyard.To the southwest lies the
Map sheet
13
D ESC R IPTIVE
CATALOG U E
103
Creswell 1952 (fig. 20) (showing. in dashed lines, the northern exten
sions prior to demolition)
References: Flury 1912; Creswell 1919, 49-51; Pasty 1932, 107; Lamm
176, 220, 229, 291, 307, 318, 338, 361, 397, 438, 470, Raymond 1995,
101-3; Robbat 1996; Bierman 1998, 4, 6, 44, 50-51, 73-74, 135, 176
n 65, 178 n,93; Sayyid 1998, 191-207; O'Kane 1999, 154-55; D'Kane
2000, 158-59; Barrucand 2002, Tabbaa 2002, 70, 80, 110, 129
98
Mosque of Muhammad Bey Abu'I Dhahab
AH1188 / AD1774
Bey Abu'l Dhahab ruled Egypt for four
Muhammad
Mapsheet
years after he ousted his master, 'Ali Bey al-Kabir,
13
in AD 1772. This magnificent complex, which
includes a tomb and library as well as a sabil and a
watering trough [listed separately; see no B2), is one of the
most impressive eighteenth-century structures in Cairo. Built
on a raised platform, with shops beneath, the mosque has a
screen wall to the north, and a shallow domed arcade to the
north, soith, and west of the large central dome that covers
104
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
102
Mosque of al-Ayni
AH814 / AD1411
Plan:
Kessler 1971
References: Creswell 1919, 120, Mostafa 1982, 110-11; Ibrahim and
O'Kane 1988; Seton-Wililams and Stocks 1988, 264, Meinecke 1992,
1:312, 349
Listing end conservation BCCMAA 1896, 47-48, 58. Herz 1914
[1882-1910, 12, 8CCMAA 1912, 25, 50, DCCMAA 1915-19, 819, BCCMAA1930-32, 191,200, 231: BCCMAA
1933-35, 157, 171,179, BCCMAA 1936-40, 13, 110,114; BCCMAA 1941-45, 72: BCCMAA
1946-53, 146
103
Zawiya of Ahmad ibn Shaban
Tenth century AllI Sixteenth century AD
This zawlya has a trilbed entry portal with deco
rative stone strapwork, which isflanked by a small
sabil that retains portions of a wood inscription
over the window-grille. The entire fa9ade isheavily
overpainted at present. The entrance leads through a short
corridor with an original painted wood ceiling to an open court,
to the east of which lies the zawiya proper and the burial place
of the shaykh after whom the building isnamed. The prayer
space consists of two arcades supported on reused antique
columns; traces of the original painted ceiling survive. The
Mapsheet
6
mihrab and minbar are not original. To the north, behind a large
mashrabilya screen, is the stone-vaulted tomb area with a
separate stone mihrab surrounded by strapwork.
Plan CMP Survey
References. None
Listng and conservation. RCCAAA 19D6, 97 (classification of sabil only),
lIerz 1914 [18B2-1910], 9, BCCMAA 1915-19, 776; SCA2002,113-16
105
Mausoleum of Sudun al-Qasrawi
Before All 873 / AD1468
Sudun was an amir and dawadar of Sultan Inal; he
became commander of the corps of Mamluks
before dying on the battlefield in Aleppo in AD
1468. The only part of his complex that appears to
be original isthe tomb chamber, which has a ribbed plastered
brick dome. The remainder of the building, including the prayer
hall and entrance, seems to be a reconstruction dating to the
latter part of the nineteenth century.
Ma1sheet
13
109
Mosque of al-Fakahani and Fatimid doors
AH 1184/ AD1736; AH644 / AD1149 (doos)
This mosque, nicknamed 'the mosque of the
Mapsheet Fruitsellers' was built by Ahmad Katkhuda alKharbutli in AD 1735 on the site of the Fatimid
mosque of the khalif al-Zafir(r. 1149-54). Two pairs
of magnificently carved doors from the Fatimid structure were
reused; these were the first parts of the mosque to be regis
tered in 1908, with the remainder of the building, including a
sabil-kuttab, following in 1937. The interior has a large number
of antique columns, perhaps also reused from the earlier
structure. The building takes the form of a courtyard mosque
raised above shops; in this case, the courtyard isroofed and has
The mosque was restored by the SCA inthe late 1990s, and the
Plan. SCAArchive
107
112
AH829-30 / AD1425-26
13
AH745-46 / AD1344-45
DFSCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
105
1977, 117-19; Karnouk 1981, 117, 119 (rindad; J Williams 1984, 36,
40; Karim 1988 Meinecke 1992, 11.201;
O'Kane 2000, 159-60
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA
1887-88,
6: BCCMAA 1898, 36, BCC
MAA 1900, 7, 48; SCCMAA 1905, 65; BCCMkAA
190E,98, OCCMAA
1909, 139; Herz 1914 11882-1910], 24; BCCAM 1911, 65, BCCMAA
1912, 83; BCCMAA 1913, 83; BCCMAA
1915-19, 94-96, 643, 683, 709,
773, 776, 82D BCCMAA 1920-24, 95, 154, 256-57, 3S9, BCCMA
1936-40, 13
113
Tomb of Azdumur
Before AK922 /AD1517
The form of this now-derelict structure, located
immediately to the north of the tomb of the amir
Tarabay (no. 255), more closely resembles a
zawiya than a tomb. It was built by a secretary of
Sultan al-Ohuri and is not to be confused with a tomb of the
same name (monument no. 90) in the northern cemetery. The
main entrance, through a square-headed portal with flat
muqarnas decoration, is on the eastern side of the building.
This leads through a dog-legged corridor into a double wan
space with two mihrabs; vestiges of residential units constitute
the remainder of the first floor.Two cenotaphs in the southern
Iwan may be later burials. A blocked entrance to the building
from a street along the western edge of the site was exposed
by excavations in 2000, as was the entrance to a crypt under
the northern iwan.
Mapsheet
114
/ AD 1480
This mosque ismore commonly known by the name
Mapshe
of Shaykh Abu Hurayra or Hariba, who was buried
14
here in the nineteenth century. The founder, an
important amir of Sultan Qaytbay, died in
Damascus. The mosque is built on a triangular plot, and iscon
nected by a bridge to its ablutions court on the other side of a
street to the northwest. It is one of the most lavishly decorated
of the Gaytbay-period monuments and was heavily restored by
the Comit6 in 1896. It would seem that the listing does not
extend to the hawd (occupied by a shop) and kuttab (still in use
as a school) also on the other side of the street to the north
west. The complex takes the form of acruciform madrasa, with
a sabil, minaret, dome over the tomb chamber, and two portals
The main portal faces west and isembellished with ablaq deco
ration (also found over the window heads). The secondary portal
(on the eastern fadade) istoday disused. The whole building is
constructed above shop units, which are today substantially
underground. The sabil (which has a separate access from the
street) isderelict, but a fine salsabil with wooden muqarnas
hood and a painted wood ceiling ispreserved within.
AH885
106
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
References Creswelil
(2nd d.), 51-52, 79, 113-14, BCCMAA 1894, 13-14, 19, 41, 82,
103-04 120, 133, BCCMAA 1895, 20, 28, 44, 48-49, 96, BCCMAA
1896, 41, 128-29, 162; BCCMAA 1897, 24, 53, 83, 68-69, 98-99,
109-110; OCCMAA
1898, 8-9, 20. 61, BCCMAA 1899, 66; BCCAIAA
190, 34, 58; BCCMAA 1901, 6-7, BCCMAA 1902, 33, 48, 74: BCCMA4
1903, 30, SCCMAA 1905, 48-49; BCCMIAA
1906,24,76,109, BCCMAA
1907, 18-19; BCCMAA 1908, 66-67; BCCMAA 1909, 63, Herz 1914
[1882-1910], 103-4; BCCMAA 1915-19, 782, 835, BCCMAA 1930-32,
24; BCCMAA 1946-53, 293
115
Mosque of Ahmad al-Mihmandar
AH725 / AD1324
This mosque, originally built by an amir of Sultan
al-Nasr Muhammad, was restored by the Ottoman
sultan Ahmet Ill in AD1722. A passageway (now
blocked) once led through the building to the street
behind; the mosque was part of a complex that included a
qaysariya and rab' (now lost). The mosque is entered from a fine
ablaq portal with a bull's-eye window and two inlaid marble
inscription bands, Only the lower section of the plastered-brick
minaret is original. The tomb chamber has a ribbed plIstered
brick dome; the marble inscription on the founder's cenotaph
within is more or less intact With the exception of the qibla
iwan's painted wood ceiling, the mosque's interior is without
decorative interest.
Plan Meinecke 1992, 1.64 ; SCAArchive (ablutions area)
Mapsheet
14
116
Mosque of al-Salih Tala'i'
AH 555
/ AD1160
117
Mosque of Mahmud al-Kurdi
AH795 / AD1393
Mahmud al-Kurdi, the majordomo of Sultan
Barquq, built this madrasa prior to falling out of
favor. The fagade has a high-level inscription band
and a trilobed portal with muqarnas, above which
is located the minaret The doors have their original metal
revetments, and there are fine bronze grilles to the windows
with decorated wooden frames, The tomb chamber has a stone
dome with ribbed horizontal chevrons (Ibrahim [1976] distin
guishes it as the earliest appearance of this motif on a dome)
and an inscription. The interior underwent major restoration in
the late 1990s, and the minaret has been plastered white.
Plan: Melnecke 1992, 1191
Mapsheet
21
118
Mosque of Inal al-Yusufi
An 794 1AD1392-93
to as Inal al-Atabaki, the founder was
referred
Also
Mapsheet
an amir of Sultan Sha'ban II. His complex resem
21
bles that of Mahmud al-Kurdi (see no. 117) slight
ly to the north, with one important exception: the
plan is orthogonal with no adjustment to qibla internally: the
result is that the qibla orientation differs greatly from that of
other mosques in the area. Blazons distributed throughout the
building indicate that Inal was the armorer (sdIahdor) to the
sultan. The mosque has an inscribed trilobed portal, a satil
kuttab with a reused antique column at the southwestern cor
ner of the site, a minaret located directly over the main
entrance, and a stone rbbed dome. The kuttab is a rebuilding
by the Comit4. The internal plan of the mosque is a simple
four-iwan structure
Plan; Meinecke 1992, 1,159
References: Creswell 1919,117; Mostafa 1982, 96-99, Seton-Williams and
Stocks 1988, 121-22; Menecke 1992,11:282; O'Kane 2060,160, 162
Listing and conscrvation- BCCMAA 1897, 92; BCCMAA 1899, 70, BCCMAA
1901, 68, 103; BCCMAA 1902, 18; BCCMAA 1904, 79; Her, 1914
(1882-1910], 81; BCCMAA 1915-19, 779
119
Mosque of Ganibak
AH 830
/AD1426
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
107
1915-19, 131-32, 403, 446, 464. 585, 777; BCCMAA 1927-29, 92, 94
BCCMAA 1946-53, 89, 91-92, 291, 360
120
Mosque of al-Maridani
AN738-40 / AD1337-39
pshee This mosque was built by the anir Altunbugha al
Mardan, the cup-bearer and son-in-law of Sultan
14
al-Nasir Muhammad. It is a large, richly decorated
courtyard mosque with two major portals to the
north and west and a minor portal to the south. The original
context of the western portal (which isdecorated) is uncertain,
since it no longer faces a significant street Although the south
ern portal, in contrast, faces a street, it is plain. The decorated
northern portal has fine marble work and two inscription bands.
A further inscription band runs across the upper part of the
mosque's crenellated perimeter wall. The original minaret and
wooden dome above the mihrab, supported on antique granite
columns, are in good condition; the upper tier of the minaret
and the dome are Comite replacements. The outer qibla arcade
was entirely rebuilt by the Comit6 during extensive restorations
from 1895 to 1903. The fountain pavilion in the center of the
sahn was brought from the madrasa of Sultan Hlasan (no. 133)
one of two originally in that madrasa-and installed at the
same time (it has recently been totally reconstructed).
Crenellations line the perimeter of the courtyard, which is
flanked on the side of the qibla arcades by a magnificent
inscribed turned-wood screen, and on the northern and southern
sides by low marble balustrades The wooden screen may have
been built to screen off the qibla arcades from pedestrian traffic
using the mosque as a shortcut between streets. The qibla wall
has a fine marble dado and inlaid marble mihrab; adjacent to
which is the original minbar. The foundation inscription is
mounted on the northern wall within the qibla arcades.
Plan:Meinecke 1992, LEO
References: Creswell 1919, 100-101, Pauty 1929, 148 (muqamas); Pauty
1932, 118-19; Meinecke 1977, 107-12, Karnouk 1981, 115,116, 120
and n. 2 and pl iiI (manbar); J Williams 19B4, 36, 40; Seton-Williams
and Stocks 1988, 308-9, Behrens-AboiseIf 1989, 113-15: Meinecke
1992,11178: Blair and Bloom 1995, 81. Asfour 2000. 243-44, 248-49,
al-Harithy 2000, 232; O'Kane 2000, 164-65; Seton-Watson 2000,
76-80; Karim 2002, 44
Listng and conscervbon. BCCMAA 1084, 19, BCCMAA 1892, 70; BCCMAA
18u3 (2nd ed), 88: BCCMAA 1894, 36, 77, 126-30, BCCMM 1896,
128, SCCMAA 1897, 65-56, 64, 71,10910, 130, 148; BCCMAA 1898,
9-10, 75, 115; BCCMAA 1899, 23, 54-55, 66, 88, 113; BCCMAA 1900,
45, BCCMAA 1901, 8,22,65, 87, 90-91, BCCMAA 1902, 83, 116, 120;
OCCMAA
1903, 6, BCCMAA 1905, 15, 34 BCCMAA 1906, 28-29; BCCMAA 1909, 61, 149-S0, Herm1914 11882-1910], 114-15 BCCMAA
1915-19, 780, 830, BCCMAA 1936-40. 295; BCCMAA 1946-53. 50,
54-55, 57, 90-91, 117, 235-36, 254, 291, 298, 309, 342
108
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
123
Mosque of Aqsunqur
AH747 / AD 1346
Plan:Kessler 1971
References- Creswell 1919, 102-4; 1.Williams 1969, 457; Mantran 1972,
215; Meinecke 1973, 9-38, Meinecke-Berg 1973, 39-62, Raymond
1979b, 121-23; Karneuk 1981, 123 and pl. 1.1 (minbar) I Williams
1984, 36: Behrens Abouseif 1987, 88: Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 115.
Mostafa 19B9. 38. Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988,311-12; Meinecke
1992, 11:198-99, 206-7, 315; O'Kane 2000, 166; Seton-Watson 2000,
106-10; Karim 2002, 44
Listing and conservation-BCCMAA 1884, 9, BCCMA 1889, 60, BCCMAA
1893 (2nd ed.), 36, 63, 76, RCCAIAA
1896, 59; BCCMVAA
1897, 66-66;
1901, 23; BCCMAA 1902, 16, 24; BCCMAA
1903, 29; BCCBCCMAA
MA 1904, 7, 36; BCCMAA 1906,76 (tomb of Ibrahim Agha); BCCMAA
1907, 81-82, Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 14, BCCMAA 1915-19, 776;
SCCMAA 1920-24, 256, 274, 359; 8CCMAA 1933-35, 140, 143, 147,
160. 173. 181,183, 186; BCCMAA 1946-53, 54. 56-57
125
Madrasa of Umm al-Sultan Sha'ban
AH770 / AD1368
126
Mosque of Alti Barmaq
127
Mosque of Sudun Min Zada
AH804 1 AD1401
Only part of the heavily eroded qibla wall and
northern flank wall of this Mamluk courtyard
mosque survive. The rest of the mosque was demol
ished in the 1960s to make way for two concrete
apartment blocks. Remnants of the stuccoed mihrab can still be
seen on the qibIa wall. Capitals from the mosque (whose prove
nance has been traced, by Rondot [1991], to a Ptolemaic or
Roman structure at Antinoopolis) were transferred to the lower
area of the Citadel for storage.
Map sheet
15
128
Qubba of al-Qimari
An730 /AD 1329
A
Map sheet The ribbed dome of this tomb isof plastered-brick.
fragment of inscription band at the base of the drum
22
survives; two other surviving inscriptions are visible
on the faade and portal The fagade has two
recessed bays with muqarmas decoration, as does the portal
Adjacent to the portal is a section of original wall with a pro
jecting wooden balcony above it that also extends over the por
tal. The remainder of the building comprises a neo-Mamluk
raised mosque, accessed from the street to the north,
Plan-Kessler 1971
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
109
129
Mosque and mausoleum
of Ganem al-Bahlawan
AH 883-916 /AD1478-1510
Ganem al-Bahlawan was the brother of the amir
Shet
Yashbak (the foremost amir of Sultan Qaytbay].
The
tomb chamber of this complex, built in AD1510
(slightly later than the mosque itself), has a
magnificent masonry dome carved with arabesques and an
inscription band. The building is richly and exuberantly decorat
ed throughout: the main fagade even has muqarnas carved with
floral motifs and a highly original pattern of crenellation. The
portal has two inscriptions, but only that at high level survives
substantially intact. The stone minaret is typical of Qaytbay
period minarets in its elaboration, with arabesques carved on the
central tier. The main doors have fine metal revetments. The
interior has a plan in the form of a T,with three arcades parallel
to the qibla wall The sahn is covered with a contemporaneous
wooden ceiling and lantern The last major restoration took place
under the supervision of Max Herz in 1898. The plan of the adja
cent house, to the right of the portal, is also shown on the map
Plan:Meinecke 1992, I 164
References: Creswell 1919, 143, Pauty 1929, 148-50, pl. vil.28 (ruqarnas].
Seton-Willams andStocks 1988, 320; Meinecke 1992, 11:415-16
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1899, 127 (classification under the
name Canem al-Tagir); BCCMAA 1902, 33, 108 BCCMAA 1503, 29:
BCCMAA 1905, 14-15, 53, BCCMAA 1909, 149; Herz 1914
[1882-19101, 58, BCCMAA 1912, 26; BCCMAA 1915-19, 777, BCCMAA 1927-29, 92, Ornmos
2002, 135-37, 142-43
130
Mosque of Ulmas
AH730
/AD1329-30
110
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
References: Creswell 1919, 95; Pauty 1929, 146 and pl. iv.15 (muqarnas];
Kessler 1969, 265, 266;J. Williams 1984, 36; Seton-Williams and Stocks,
1988, 331, Meinecke 1992, 11150, Karim 2000, O'Kane 2000, 155
Listing and conservbrion. BCCMAA 1887-88, 15, BCCMAA 1901,107; BCCMAA 1902, 95; BCCMAA 1903, 73; BCCMAA 1909, 17,60-61: BCCMAA 1910,117 Herz 1914 [1882-19101 18, BCCMAA 1911,27,49,60,
102; BCCMAA
1912, 23, 27, 49, 74, 89 120, BCCMAA
1915-19, 404
764, 797, 820; BCCMAA
1920-24, 259, RCCMAA 1946-53, 142
131
Mosque of Ilgay al-Yusufl
AH774 / AD1373
The amir Ilgay al-Yusufi held the rank of armorer or
swordbearer (sichdar), and his complex is located,
appropriately enough, in the Suq al-Silah, or sword
market. He married the mother of Sultan Sha'ban
while the latter was still achild but quarreled with Sha'ban after
Khawand Baraka's death and died while attempting to flee Egypt,
his funerary complex, restored by the SCA in 1998, is a
large one. The crenellated favade is divided into bays with
either muqarnas or keel-arched hoods, and has an inscribed
trilobed muqarnas portal framed by a molding. Above the portal
stands a three-tiered minaret; to the left is a very tall sabil
kuttab with reused antique corner columns At the southern
end of the building is the tomb chamber with a spiral-ribbed
dome of plastered brick. The entry vestibule has an elaborate
stone groin vault leading through a bent entrance into the sahn
of the cruciform madrasa. The qibla and western iwans have
new ceilings; the flanking Iwans retain their original painted
wood ceilings. Fragments of stone inscriptions survive over the
entrance doors to the sahn. The bulk of the accommodation for
those who studied here is located on the northern side of the
building, with its own entrance and elevation on a side street.
Map sheet
15
133
Madrasa of Sultan Hasan
AH757-64 / AD1356-62
This famous monument, whose inscriptions and
decoration have been the subject of extensive study,
16
combines a madrasa, khanqah, and mausoleum on
an unsurpassed scale. Situated to the west of Midan
al-Rumayla at the foot of the Citadel, the building, constructed
Map shret
BCCMAA
1912, 83, 99, 112,BCCMAA1913, 30, 32, 41, 47. 68, 74, 80,
97, 99, 129, BCCMAA 1914, 1, 6, 54, 58, 61, 105, 130, 59; CCMAA
1915-19, 105-6, 321, 348, 368, 584-B5, 695; BCCMAA 1920-24, 103,
14B, 169, 255-56, 300, 347, BCCMAA 1930-32, 52, 60, 64, 196, 202,
232, BCCMAA1933-35, 41, 42, 47, 92, 140, 142, 165; BCCMAA
1936-40, 203, 205, 326, 336-37, 341-42, 348-49, 351-52, 354; BCCMAA1941-45, 2, BCCMAA 1946-53, 40-41, 45, 47-51, 55, 70, 72, 103,
105, 214, 334, 407, 413, 422
134
Mapsheet
16
AH833 /AD1430
Gawhar was a eunuch in the service of Sultan
Barsbay, and was tutor (lala) to the latter's children.
He fell from favor with the accession of Gaqmaq
and died inAD1438 His mosque is tiny, but it com
135
Mosque al-Mahmudiya
AH975 / AD1568
Map sheet
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
111
136
Mosque of Qanibay al-Sayfi (Amir Akhur)
AH908 /AD1503
Mapsheet
16
112
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
(137)
Mosque of al-Sukkari
Twelfth century AHI Eighteenth century AD
This Ottoman mosque, known also as the mosque of
al-Hagg Abu Ghalya, was built immediately in front
of the entrance to the bimaristan of al-Mu'ayyad
Shaykh (no. 257). It was registered but subsequently
demolished early in the twentieth century by the Comite in
order to expose the fagade of the bimaristan. Photographs in
Mapsheet
sand
the Comit# Bulletins reveal that the mosque had spiral marble
Pian: SCAArchive
138
Mosque of Mangak al-Yusufh
AH750! AD1349
sheet
appears to be origLnal.
Plan; SCAArchive
References: Creswell 1919, 105; Karnouk 1981, 120, 121and pi ,v2, vi 3
(minhar): Behrens-Abouseif 19B7, 93: Surgoyne 1987, 385-86 (for
biography); Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 303; Memecke 1992,
11:213
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1884, 8; BCCMAA 1891. 24-25; BCCMAA1896, 39, 138; BCCMAA 1897, 25. 65; BCCMWAA
188, 9, 135-36;
BCCMAA 1899, 66; BCCMAA 1900, 12-13, 26-27, 54-55, 85; BCCMM
1905, 47. Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 113,RCCMAA
1914, 77; BCCMAA
1915-19, 96-97, 399, 403, 432, 446, 464, 493, 585, 773, 800; BCCMAA 1933-35, 26, 38: BCCMAA 1936-40, 13,105, 208, 266, 348, 350;
BCMAA 1941-45, 186, 221, 222, 232, 288, BCCMAA 1946-53, 2B9
139
(141)
Ribat of al-Zayni
AH 856 / AD 1452
AH783/ AD 1382
140
Khanqah of Nizam al-Din
AH757 f AD 1356
Nizam al-Din Ishaq, from Isfahan, was the manager
of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad's khanqah in
landB
Siryaqus. The designation of this building as a
mosque in the English version of the 1950 Index of
Monuments is at variance with the Arabic version, which
defines it as a mosque-khangah, 'khanqah' would seem to
accord more closely with the visible remains. Some of the cells
for Sufis are still apparent: tiny vaulted chambers, each with an
individual mibrab in plaster relief. The plan is sufficiently enig
matic as to be susceptible of various interpretations, especially
since it would appear that the structure was heavily remodeled
for military purposes at some point in its history. The building
today gives the appearance of a ruined castle, standing high on
a spur of the Muqattam Hills below the Citadel. This appearance
is enhanced by gunports at high level (possibly built by the
French during their occupation of the city) and machicoulis.
The surviving portal has an eroded inscription; a fine piece of
pharaonic spolla was reused as a lintel over the doorway.
Map sheet
al-Azhar.
Plan- None
References- Creswell 1919, 133-34, leinecke 1992, 11.373; Tantawi 1994,
77-79
Listing and conservation: BCCMM 1883 (2nd ed). 26; BCCAA 1900,
124-25 (historical notice): BCCMAA 1902, 65 (not classified), Herz
1914 [1882-1910), 169, BCCMAA 1920-24, 258
142
Mapsheet
AH935
AD1528
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
113
145
Mosque of Ahmad Katkhuda al-'Azab
143
Mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad
Ad 735 f AD1335
Founded by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad in AD1318
and subsequently enlarged by him, this courtyard
mosque has two minarets that face the southern and northern
enclosures of the Citadel. Their tiled, bulbous finials are stylis
tically unique in Egypt; it has been suggested that the crafts
men responsible for the design were from Tabriz: Inside the
mosque, most of the walls' marble revetment was removed by
Sultan Selim Yavuz after the Ottoman conquest and taken back
to Istanbul. The interior is distinguished by numerous reused
columns of different heights, their bases have been adjusted to
achieve uniformity. The dome in front of the mihrab and the
mihrab's inlaid marble revetment, together with many parts of
the ceiling, are Comit& restorations dating to 1936. The ceilings
were beautifully coffered with painted blue-and-gold decora
tion, as can be seen in those sections that survive intact.
M
144
Sabil of Shaykhu
755 / AD1354
Map sAH
114
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
Mop sheet
AH1109 / Ap1697
146
Zawiyat al-'Abbar
23
AH683 / AD1284-85
This building is known also as the khanqah of alBunduqdari and the tomb of the amir Aydakin alBunduqdari. Aydakin was a mamiuk of Salih Negm al-Din
Ayyub and owned, in his turn, as a mamluk the future sultan
Baybars. An inscription band on his tomb's street facade con
tains at its center the earliest documented example in Egypt of
a blazon on a building: the double-bow blazon of the bunduq
dor ('bow-carrier'). The ribbed dome of the tomb (identified by
Ibrahim [1976] as the earliest surviving Mamluk ribbed dome)
is plastered brick, its interior decorated with two plaster
inscription bands; one at the dome's base and the other at its
apex. There is an elaborate transition zone to the dome. The
mihrab has a keel-arch hood, with stucco arabesques within
framed by small inscription bands that follow the outline of the
hood. All other original decoration has disappeared. Beyond the
tomb lies a nineteenth-century zawiya with two simple arched
arcades on piers. Passing through the ablutions area, there is
another tomb very similar in design to that of Aydakin. It, too,
has a ribbed dome of brick and plaster, with a stucco inscrip
tion band at its base and fine stucco geometric window grilles;
the window frames have two inscription bands and surround
ing decoration. The high-level plasterwork has been restored,
but the complex today isotherwise derelict.
Plan.SCAArchive
References; Creswell 1919, 82; Pauty 1929, 144 (muqarnas); Ibrahim 1976,
9; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 334-35; Mcinecke 1992, 11.60
LSting and conservatron. BCCMAA 1901, 107-8 (classificaton); BCCIMAA
1909, 44; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 1:BCCMAA 1912, 50, 67. 89: BCC
MAA 1913, 46, BCCMAA 1915-19, 797; BCCMAA 1925-26, 17, 50, 70;
1933-35, 157, 171,179, 180
BCCMAA
147
Map sheet
23
Mosque of Shaykhu
OH750 / AD 1349
Shaykhu was a mamluk of al-Nasr Muhammad and
the principal supporter of the young Sultan Hasan,
until the mamluk's assassination in AD 1357. The mosque of
Shaykhu predates his khanqah (no. 152), which islocated on the
opposite side of the street. The mosques fagade has an intact
high-level inscription band; the inscription on the portal is
largely disintegrated. The wall to the left of the portal collapsed
at some point inthe building's history. The octagonal minaret of
the mosque has an unusual reed-type cornice on its intermedi
ate tier rather than the more common muqarns. The vestibule
has small black-glass mirrors set in its walls (perhaps in imita
tion of the Kaaba) and isflanked by a domed tomb chamber in
which an unknown shaykh is buried (the founder's tomb is
located in the khanqah across the street). The ribbed dome is of
plastered brick, with an inscription band at its base. The
vestibule leads directly into the sahn, which isbordered by two
curiously compressed lateral iwans and two larger "wans of two
arcades apiece, each supported on antique columns. Asecond
ary entrance from a side street leads into the western iwan. An
octagonal fountain occupies the center of the courtyard; an
inscribed stone dikka (dated 1655) and a Qaytbay-period stone
mintar are situated on the qibla side. The mihrab isunusual for
the inlay of Tunisian tiles in its lower part. To the north of the
sahn isthe ablutions area, with a separate small zawiya, proba
bly added in the nineteenth century.
P/inaMostafa 1992, 115
References Creswell 1919, 105, Pauty 1929.146 (muqarnas], Kessler 1969,
Meinecke (1992) has an earlier attribution and date for the build
ing, considering it to be the remains of the sabil al-Mu'rnini, con
structed by the amir Baktimur al-Mu'mini in AD1369, This sabil
differed from others in that it was traditionally a place where
corpses were ritually washed prior to burial; this may account for
the unusual form of the building but does not explain the
absence of any obvious architectural features associated with
water. The building was restored by the SCA in 1998.
Plan. SCAArchive
References: Creswell 1919, 156; Behrens-Abouself 1985, 89; Bates 1991,
164, Meinecke 1992, 11249-50
Listing and conservufon: BCCMAA 1885, xxw; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 63;
BCCIAA 1911,
70; BCCMAA 1912, 24, 49, 112; BCCMAAA
1913, 47,
BCCMAA 1914, 77, 107: BCCMAA 1915-19, B02
150
Sabil-kuttab
Map sheet
AH1131 / AD1718
The 1:5000 Map of Mohammedan Monuments
incorrectly numbers this building as no. 230, which
is actually the sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa'ada. The
building has tile lunettes over the sabil grilles, one of which is
bronze and the other wood. The kuttab has been destroyed, but
its corbels remain A mashrabiya overhang projects at mezza
nine level from the southern wall of the building, which con
nects to an adjacent house through a portal with decorative
strapwork.
14
259-61, J.Williams 1984, 36, Belirens-Abouseif 1987,93-94, ScionWilliams and Stocks 19s,360; Meinecke 1992, 11:
214; Asfour 2000,
151
1911,13;BCCMAA
1912, 11,25; BCCMAA
1913, 97; BCCMAA
1914, 58, 128; BCCMAA
1915-19, 97-102, 312, 318, 322, 333, 399, 464, 585, 764, 798; BCCMAA
148
Mosque of al-Ghuri
16se
A 909 / AD1504
Mp sheet
16
/AD1413
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
115
MAA 1894, 15, 37-38, Herz 1914 (18B2-191], 92: BCCMAA 1915-19,
802; BCCMAA 1925-26, 17, BCCMAA 1946-53, 288
152
Khanqah of Shaykhu
Map sheet
AH 756 J AD1355
23 and 24
166, 171
osting
154
Map sheet
IMAA 1925-26, 15, 17, 38, 70; BCCMAA 1927-29, 188, BCCMAA
1930-32, 16: Pauty 1931b, 165 n 1: BCCMAA 1933 35,39, 41, 46, 92:
Plan. SCAArchive
97-102, 798; BCCMAA 1920-24, 23, 50, 94, 97, 146, 157, 359, BCC-
Map sheet
17
153
Mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi
ca. All 768-78 and 885-94 / AD1366-77 and
1480-89
This building was originally the main ga'a of a
palace built ca. AD1366-70 byTashtamur al-'Alai1, the dawadar
of Sultan Sha'ban. Its conversion into amosque was carried out
116
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
1901, 39, 64; BCCMAA 1902, 104-5, BCCMAA 1908, 37-38, BCMAA 1909, 62: Herz
1914 [1882-1910]. 92, BCCMAA 1911,51,68; BCCMAA 1915-19, 802,
BCCMAA 1941-45, 34, 44, 81, 240
155
Map sheet
17
156
Mapsheet
17
AH696 / AD1297
This is the only surviving section of a complex that
was built around the tomb of Shaykh 'Ali al-Baqli The minaret
has a square base with a muqarnas cornice There appears to be
no middle story; instead a mabkhara-type finial rises directly
from the base The adjacent mosque is newly built,
Plan CMP Survey
References Creswell 1919, 84-85, Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 330;
Meinecke 1992, II83-84
Listing and conservation. RCCM4AA
1901, 150-11 (ciassification; B0CM/A
1908, 81, BCCMAA 1909, 19, Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 29; BCCMAA
1915-19. 79B
159
Minaret of the mosque of al-Ghuri
AP915/AD 1509
The mosque, one of Sultan al-Ghuri's lesser-known
works, is now located immediately adjacent to the
Salah Salim highway. Although the minaret appears to be trun
cated and missing a central tier, its design is original. The
entrance to the mosque is through a simple trilobed portal with
an intact inscription, but most of the fagade has been refaced,
and its crenellations have been replaced. The grilles to the lower
and upper windows are all new. The flank wall of the building
would also appear to have been rebuilt, and the main structure
internally is modern, with a new roof supported on steel beams.
M0
Plan- SCAArcehlve
References Cresweil 1919,155-5w; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 376;
Meinecke 1992,11.463
Lasting and conservation: BCCMAA
1884, 11,BCCMAA 1890, 78; Herz 1914
[1B82-1910], 63, BCCMAA 1913, 89, 102, BCCA4AA
1915-19, 490,
502, 595.
802; BCCMAA
1946-53, 384
160
Map
sheet
AH 983 / AD1575
The mosque, located immediately adjacent to the
Salah Salim highway, was built for Shaykh Nur al-Din al-Qarafi
by Messih Pasha, a Wiite eunuch who was governor of Cairo
from AD1574 to 1580 The mosque, entered through a trilobed
muqarnas portal, has a fine Ottoman minaret. The interior has
four antique columns supporting arches for the roof; most of
the internal walls have been refaced with stone. There is a sabil
grille to the west of the main portal, separated from the main
building by an alleyway. The structures behind the sabil that are
shown in plan here have been overbuilt.
Plan: SCA
Archive
References: Pauty 193B, 12, Seton-Wiliames and Stocks 1968, 376, Rates
1991. 157-69; Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 203-7, el-Rashidi 1999,
22-23, 73-75
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1907, 70-71, Herz 1914 [1882-1910],
119;BCCMAA 1915-19, 801
167
Map sheet
25
An 1042 / AD1B32
Although this sabil is listed under the name
'Sulayman Shawish, the founder of this building
appears to be Sulayman Gawish, the building is named the 'sabil
Bab al-Hadid' in the Descreption de f'Egypte. It is a typical exam
ple of a larger Ottoman sabil-kuttab, with an inlaid marble floor
and painted wood ceiling in the sabil.
Plan:5CA
Archives
References: Panty 1936, 23, 24, Raymond 19792, 249 (no 24); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 285
Listing and conservaton' BCCMAA 1887-88, 34-35, 62; BCCMAA 18B9,
52; BCCMAA 1898. 122, BCCMAA 1899, 90-91; BCCMAA 1900, 26,
169
Map sheet
17
AH648 / AD 1250
Shagarat al-Durr ('Tree of Pearls') was the wife of
Sultan Salib Negm al-Din Ayyub; she reigned
briefly as sultana after his death. Her tomb, part of a larger
complex that included a madrasa and a hammam (see U113),
was reused for the later burial of a fourteenth-fifteenth-cen
tury AD'Abbasid khalif. The tomb is a rendered-brick building
with a stilted dome, keel-arched openings, and an intact
inscription on the northern side. It stands in a separate enclo
sure some one and a half meters below ground level to the
south of an incomplete neo-Mamluk mosque (see U118). The
tomb contains fine carved stucco decoration and a famous
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
117
References' Creswell 1919, 77; Pauty 1929, 144 and pl. 111.9(muqarnas);
(170)
Mausoleum of Qurqumas
Mapsheet
18
AH917 / AD1511
173
Zawiya of Gulaq
Map sheet
Plan' SCAArchive
References Creswell 1919, 136-37; Melnecke 1992,11391-92
Listing and conservation: BCCMA4 1887-88, 39-40; BCCMAA 1893 (2nd
ed.),80-1; Herr 1914 [1B82-19101, 49; BCCMAA 1915-19, 787, BCCMAA 1936-40, 59, 64; SCA2002, 127-30, 378-82
118
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
175
Madrasa and sabil of al-Ashraf Barsbay
AH829 / AD 1425
Barsbay, a mamluk of Sultan al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh,
assumed the sultanate in AD 1422 and governed
humanely until his death in 1438. The complex he
built on the Shari' Muizz li-Din Allah includes a
cruciform madrasa, minaret, sabil-kuttab, and tomb. Barsbay
himself isburied in his funerary complex in the northern ceme
tery (monument no. 121), although various members of his
family are interred here. The fagade of the complex, covered in
distinctive red-and-yellow ablaq masonry, has a continuous
high-level inscription band and crenellation. The minaret has a
square base with a muqarnas cornice, above which isset a cir
cular second tier and mabkhara. The stone masonry dome,
raised on scrolled corners over the tomb chamber, is carved
with a chevron pattern. The portal, with a muqarnas hood and
ablaq decoration, leads to a vestibule, which also gives access
to the sabil. From here, a dog-legged corridor extends to the
sahn, dominated by the qible wan, which contains an inlaid
marble dado and mihrab and a Comit6-period painted wood
ceiling. The inlaid wood-and-ivory minbar isoriginal. The west
ern wan retains its original ceiling; the high-level inscription
band that runs around the sahn isunusual in providing details
of the endowment that was made upon the madrasa.
In 2002 a pair of remarkable interlinked circular-plan cis
terns was discovered under the sabil of the complex, supported
at their centers by monolithic granite columns (see SCA 2002).
Mapsheet
19and20
176
Mosque of Qadi Sharaf al-Din
AH717-3B i AD1317-37
adjacent. The entrance to the mosque, set back from the road
to the west (now out of use), is part of Sharaf al-Din's work.
This is a fine square-headed portal with ablaq and muqarnas,
which seems more appropriate for the entrance to a palace
than a mosque. The ground level adjacent to the building has
risen by two meters, and the mosque isapproached by descend
ing a steep flight of stairs. There isa painted wood ceiling in the
northern [wan, and a one-meter-wide wood inscription band
survives on the northern side of the building
Plan: SCAArchive
References- lizine 1972b, 89-93, 130, Maury et al 1982, 80-82; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 283, Meinecke 1992, 11.178,OKane 2000,
154, 171
Listing and conservatron. BCCMAA 1887-88, 37: BCCMAA 1907, 99-100,
105-6, BCCMAA 1909, 43, 133; BCCMAA 1910, 59; Herz 1914
[1882-1910], 44, BCCMAA 1915-19, 85-91 (historical notice), 777,
BCCMAA 192D-24, 154, 257, 296, 359; BCCMAA 1941-45, 51, 151,
240, BCCMAA 1946-53, 333, SCA2002, 91-93
177
Fai;ade of the mosque of Muqbil al-Dawudi
AH798 1 AD1395
Plan. SCAArchive
References Creswell 1919, 117,Mostafa 1982, 101-2; Scton-Wi hams and
Stocks 1988, 283: Melinecke 1992, 11.286
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1892. 65 (classification of door only);
BCCMAA1898, 77, 135, Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 125, BCCMAA
1915-19, 781
178
Mosque of al-Gamali Yusuf
179
Sabil-kuttab of al-Kirdani
Eleventh century AN/ Seventeenth century AD
This listing includes not only the sabil-kuttab itself
-Mapsh
but also the faqade and portal of the wikala (known
19
also as the wikala of Abu Takiya) to which the
sabil-kuttab is attached. The sabil, situated on the
northern end of the wikala, has lost its kuttab, although it
retains a large decorated stone portal. The wikala seems
to be composed of two courtyards, whose peripheral arches can
barely be discerned among later accretions, which are occupied
by metal-working trades. The entrance to the wilkala is directly
opposite the wikalat al-Muhammadayn (no. 597); the character
of the masonry suggests that the two buildings had the same
patron. Hanna (1998) has posited that the two wikalas were
built by the seventeenth-century merchant Isma'l Abu Takiya
and his partner 'Abd al-Qadir al-Damiri, and she identifies the
wikala attached to the sabil-kuttab al-Kirdani as the wikalat
al-Kubra ('the Larger'), and the wikalat al-Muhammadayn (no.
597) as the wikalat al-Sughra ('the Smaller').
Plan, Ecole d'Architecture deVersailles 1987, 31
References. Pauty 1936, 23; Scharabi 1978, 162: Raymond 1979a, 286
(no. 125); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 261 (no. 6): cole d'Architecture
deVersailles 1987: Hanna 1998,127-30; Denoix et al. 1999, 11-61-62
Listing end conservation: Herm1914 [1882-1910]. xi (with no prior refer
ences); BCCMAA 1915-19, 490; BCCMAA 1933-35, 125, 127
180
Mosque and sabil
AH855 / AD1451
Plan* SCAArchive,
References Creswell 1919, 133; Seton-Williams and Stocks 198G, 282-83:
Meinecke 1992,11.372; Tantawi 1994, 86-91, OKane 2000, 158
Listing and conserrvation. 3CCMAA 1890, 93; BCCMAA 1892, 113-14;
BCCMA 1896, 40, 131-32; BCCMAA 1902, 98-99; Herz 1914
[1882-1910], 48, BCCMAA 1914, 103 BCCMAA 1915-19, 780;
BCCMAA 1920-24, 29, 96; BCCMAA 1933-35, 228; BCCMAA
1946-53, 347
Plan:SCAArchive
References- Creswell 1919, 107-8. Meinecke 1992, 11362; TanLawl 1994,
40-45; O'Kane 2000, 171
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1907, 91, ilem1914 [1882-1910], 58,
BCCMAA
1915-19, 784; BCCMAA 1936-40, 104, 121, 124, 131-32,
212, 214, 216-17, 2B6. 294. 297
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
119
181
Mosque of Murad Pasha
184
AH986 AD1578
This mosque's principal fa;ade, facing Shari' Bur
Said, has two trilobed portals separated by three
recessed window bays. The northern portal, elabo
rated with muqarnas, was the mosque's principal
entrance (now closed), while that to the south, leading to the
ablutions area, is plain. A minaret of typical Ottoman design
used to stand above the southern portal; it was taken down by
the Comite and never rebuilt The interior of the mosque has
four marble columns supporting the roof (at the center of
which is a malgaf) and a stone mibrab with arabesque carving
at its top.
AH821 l AD1418
was built in AD1418 for a wazir of
mosque
This
Map sheet
Sultan Farag dbn Barquq and al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh
27
who was notorious for his harsh methods of tax
collection, It is colloqially known as 'the Mosque of
the Girls' (al-banat).The main portal faces onto Shari' Bur Said
and has a sabil-kuttab to the south. Asecond, more modest
entrance isfrom adead-end alley off the Darb al-Gamamiz. The
main portal leads through a bent corridor into a courtyard with
four iwans. The ceilings of the qible and western iwans are
Comit6-period decorated ceilings; the other two are original.
The building was restored in the nineteenth century by Umm
Husayn (see U36), who added the Ottoman-style minaret, and
again most recently (in2000) by the SCA.
Mapsheet
27
Plan: SCAArchive
References. Pauty 1936, 12; Jaubert 1995, 196, el-Rashid 1999, 23, 75
Listing and conservation BCCMAA
1882-83 (2nd ed), 32, 45, OCCAAA
18B4, 3; BCCMAA 1903, 14-15; BCCMAA 1909, 9: Herz 1914
182
Mosque of Qadi Yahya Zayn al-Din
AH848
AD1444
120
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
185
Mosque of Asanbugha
Maphe
AH772 / AD1370
Asanbugha ('Strong Bull', d. AD1375) was an amir
(186)
Madrasa of Muhammad Abu'l Fad1
AN689 / AD1290
187
Complex of Sultan Barquq
AR788-88 1AD1384-86
References Creswell 1919, 116i Peuty 1929, 148 and pl.vi 23 (muqarnas)
Rogers 1976; Mostafa 1982; J. Williams 1984, 41, Behrens-Abouseif
1985, 81-85, Behrens-Abouseif 1987, 110,Behrens-Abouserf 1989,
133-35; 110; Tuschere, 1991, 324, Meinecle 1992, 11:269-70, Sayyid
1998, 302 and n 2; Denoix or al. 1999 1I25, O'Kane 2000, 168
Listing and conservation- BCCMAA1887-88, 2, BCCMA 1889, 8-86,
1891, 38, 40,
101-6; BCCMAA 1890, 115-16, 121,127-28; BCCMAA
42, 59, BCCMAA 1892, 82-83, 91-92, 105, 112,BCCMAA 1893 (2d
ed), 31,35-36, 52-53. 72, 81; BCCMAA 1894, 92, 114; BCCMA1895,
15,32, 48, 47, 95; BCCMAA 1896, 58,95-96,163,176; BCCMAA 1897,
1898, 24, BCCMAA 1903, 38, 62, 69; BCC
21-22, 62,81-82; BCCMAA
MAA 1904, 58-59; BCCMAA 1905, 109-10, BCCMAA 1906, 89; Herz
1914 [1882-1910, 30, BCCMAA 1911,79; BCCMAA 1915-19, 821-22,
BCCMAA 1925-26, 16-17, 22, BCCMAA1930-32, 177, 191, 200,
231-32; BCCMAA 1936-40, 131-33, BCCMAA 1941-45, 363; BCC
MA 1946-53, 297; SCA 2002, 159-62
188
Wikala of Taghribardi
Tenth century An/ Sixteenth century AD
Although this wikala shares the name of the adja
cent mosque (no. 42), it is known also (after an ear
lier founder) as the wikala of al-Anir. The precise
date of the building's construction is unknown; a fundug has
stood on this site since the Mamluk period. A fine square door
with extravagantly decorated muqarnas corbels to either side
leads into a groin-vaulted passageway that once connected to
the courtyard of the wikala, the structure of which has largely
been destroyed or overbuilt.
Map sheet
1
189
Mosque of al-Ghuri and house to the north
AH909-10 / AD1504-5
cruciform mad rasa, built above a remark
a
is
Map sheet This
ably dense complex of shop units and internal
20
streets. It has an unusual square minaret with
three tiers and a fine decorated ablaq portal. An
inscription band runs above the window recesses at high
level. The upper stories of the building contain cells for Sufi
students This foundation of Sultan al-Ghuri constitutes one
half of an architectural ensemble that straddles the Qasaba:
the counterpart structure, on the eastern side of the street,
includes his mausoleum and asabil-kuttab (see no. 67 above).
The interior of the mosque follows a cruciform plan, with the
iwans fronted by large pointed arches. The decorative treat
ment of all surfaces is lavish: particularly noteworthy is the
deep muqarnas band that runs along the top of the sahn
A cycle of restoration at the mosque, undertaken by the
SCA, was completed in 2000. The house to the north of the
madrasa included in this listing was substantially demolished
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
121
Plan Mostafa 1992, 188 (for mosque); plan of Fatimid wall, courtesy N
Hampikian
References Artin Pacha 1884, Creswell 1919, 120-21: Pauty 1929, 148 and
pl. vi.21 (muqarnas); Hanna 1984, 4; J Williams 1984, 42: Swelim
1986; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988 270-74; Behrens-Abouseif
1989, 137-38, Flamamsy 1992, 56-57, Meinecke 1992, 11319, 342,
Blair and Bloom 1995, 8B-89, Seton-Watson 2009, 27-36
Lsihng and conservatron. BCCMAA 1887-88, 1-2; BCCMAA
1869, 117-18:
BCCMAA 1890, 69-77 (with plan and details), 105, 115,117-18; BCCMAA 1891, 22-23, 38-39, 40, 42, 52, 91,BCCMAA 1892, 56, 74, 80,
190
104-5: BCCMAA
1893 (2nd ed.), 34, 113; BCCMAA 1894, 37, 86-87,
Mosque of al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh
104, 148, BCCA4AA
1895, 94, 100; BCCMAA 1896, 146. 151-52; BCCAH823 / AD1420
MAA 1897, 109, 116; BCCMAA 1998, 121-22, BCCMAA 1902, 16-17,
112-13, BCCAA 1903, 62-63: RCCMAA 1907, 121; BCCMAA 1908,
Mapsheet Sultan al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh built this mosque in
50; BCCMAA 1909, 33, 61,149-50. Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 127; BCC20 and 21 fulfillment of a vow he made while incarcerated in
MAA 1911,36. 8CCMAA 1912, 4, 55; BCCMAA 1913, 69; BCCMAA
the notorious prison that previously occupied the
site. This isan enormous courtyard mosque, elevated
1914, 72, 91,99, 139; UCCMAA
1915-19, 458, 490, 630, 715; 729, 763,
above shops, with the main doors taken from the madrasa of
781; BCCAIAA 1920-24, 23, 2B, 42-43, 257, 261,339, 360, 8CCMAA
Sultan Hasan (no. 133). The walls at the north, south, and west
1933-35, 188, 190, 265-66; BCCMAA 1936-40, 326, 336, 338; BCCwere rebuilt by the Ministry of Endowments in 1874. The tower
MAA 1941-45, 26, 32; BCCMAA 1946-53, 77, 145, 147. 201, 339-40,
ing portal, with ablaq masonry, granite door jambs, and inlaid
371, 381, 413, 422: Ormos 2002, 132-33; SCA2002, 98-100, 231-48;
inscriptions, stands on the eastern side of the building. Of the
C Williams 2002, 463
122
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
191
Mausoleum of Baybars al2Khayyat
AH920-21 IAD 1515
Map sheet Baybars al-Khayyat fought for Sultan al-Ghuri
against the Ottomans, by whom he was taken
20
prisoner. The tomb chamber is the only original
part of the complex; the remainder, including a
madrasa, was totally rebuilt by the ComitE in 1896. The carved
chevron stone dome over the tomb has an inscription band
running along its base. The tomb chamber retains its original
inlaid marble mirab and a bitumen-Inlaid inscription band,
but both are in bad condition.
Plan Kessler 1971
References Creswell 1919, 157, Meinecke 1992,11-470
Lsting and conservation. BCCMAA
1882-83 (2nd ed),22, 33, 47; BCCMAA
1885, 18-19; BCCMAA 1889, 111; BCCMAA 1902, 49; BCCMAA 1905,
36 Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 38: BCCMAA 1915-19, 777; BCCMAA
1946-53, 145
195
192
Zawiya of Fayruz
AHl830 / AD 1426
who
Maphee Fayruz ('Turquoise') was a Circassian eunuch
served sultans al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh, Barsbay, and
27
Gaqmaq His small zawiya has many fine decorative
details, including decorated wooden ceilings. The
portal's inscription bands-two inlaid kufic and one naskhi-are
intact; a double inscription is situated above the hood of the
mrab. Aribbed dome (of plastered brick) over the tomb sur
vives in good condition. The window niches in the western iwan
Meinecke 1992.11.342
Lsting and conservation: BCCMAA 1887-8B, 20-21; BCCMAA 1891, 39;
157, 255-56, 259, 299, 359, 366, BCCMAA 1925-26, 15, 30, BCCMAA
(whose inscription has been effaced) and the mihrab The rest
Map sheet
28
Plan: SCAArchive
82-B3: BCCMAA 1898, 77, BCCMAA 1903, 39; BCCMAA 1905, 49;
BCCMAA
780; BCCMAA 1936-40, 226, 333; CCMAA 1941-45, 241
196
193
on its
This small courtyard mosque withbya sabil
Muhammad
southwestern crner was built
Katkhuda Mustahfizan The interior (restored in
1913), entered through a trilobed portal on the
and two of marble). The minaret survives but has lost its final
Map
tier.
1999,34,94
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1887-88, 31: SCCMAA 1901, 114 (clas
sification of sabil);BCCMAA 1906, 98 [classification of mosque), BCC-
MAA 1909, 49; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 15, BCCMAA 1915-19, 778,
AH1035 / AD 1625
2M
large mashrabiya on the western fagade, which
its fine painted wood ceiling. The main trilobed portal on the
Plan. SCAArchive
Listing and conservation- BCCMAA 1890, 120, BCCMAA 1896, 127; Herz
1930-32,
1915-19,.794; BCCMAA
1914 [1882-1910], 166, OCCMAA
69, 216; BCCMAA 1933-35, 206, 228, CCMAA 1936-40, 2,6, 56, 104,
216, 215
194
197
AH1088
Map sheet
27
/ AD1677
References Pauty 193B, 23, 24, Raymond 1979a, 256 (no 43)
Map sheet
This is a highly decorative Ottoman sabil-kuttab, with
27
bronze grille to the sabil, fragments of the salsabil
survive, as does the kuttab above. The room to the east, housing the
capital adorns the column that supports the arches of the kuttab.
Plan- SCAArchive
Listing and conservatoo: BC0MAA 1909, 110; Herz 1914 11882-1910, 17;
1920-24, 359
776,819, BCCMAA
68; BCCMAA
1915-19,
BCCMAA 1911,
DESCRIPTIVE
CA-TA-LOGUE
123
198
200
Plan. SCAArchive
References: Pauty 1936, 23; Meinecke 1973, 217 and no, 32; Raymond
1979a, 285 (no 122)
Listing and conservaton. BCCMAA 1891, 26: Herz 1914 [1882-1910]. 75,
BCCMAA 1915-19, 778
199
Bab Zuwayla
A" 485 / AD1092
21and28
Venetian wife of Sultan Murad Ill
and mother of
Mehmed Ill. Safiya managed to appropriate all
of
'Uthman's property after his death, The mosque israised high
off the ground and is approached by large semicircular stairs
on three sides. These entrances lead to a columned forecourt,
with domes around its perimeter, that precedes a domed
prayer hall The mihrab is lined with a Mamluk-style marble
revetment, and the minbar is constructed of marble. Awood
en gallery sits above the western entrance wall, another runs
along the base of the dome. The subsidiary dome to the north
east does not seem to cover a tomb as one might expect The
minaret is intact, although the mosque has lost the garden
that once surrounded it (see no. 330).
Mp sheet
201
Mosque of al-Burdayni
AH1025-38/ AD1616-29
II
II
124
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
202
Remains of the mosque of Qawsun
AH730 1 AD1330
203
Zawiya and sabil of Farag ibn Barquq
AH811 /AD 1408
Map shee
205
Minaret and door of the mosque of Bashtak
AH736 / AD1336
Map sheet The minaret and doorof the original mosque of the
amir Bashtak-the builder of a surviving palace
29
(no. 34) and bathhouse (no. 24-4)-have been
incorporated into the structure of a nineteenth
century mosque (U69). The portal of the original mosque has an
extraordinarily deep horizontal muqarnas soffit. Of the two
inscriptions that survive, the lower one is badly damaged and
nearly illegible Aspiral stair leading to roof level isset within
the solid masonry to one side of the portal, while the other side
provides the base for the minaret itself, All three tiers of the
stone-balustraded minaret are intact.
Plan 5CA Archive
References. Creswell 1919, 98: J Williams 1984, 36: Behrens-Abouself
1987, 81-B4; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 345, Meinecke 1992,
11173
206
Mosque of Qaraqoga al-Hasani
AH845 1 AD1441-42
204
Mosque of Qadi Yahya
AH856 1 AD1452
The portal inscription describes this building as a
ribot,or hospice for the poor, an unusual building
type for Cairo. It was built by the same Qadi Yahya
who built a mosque (no. 182) some distance to the
north on the edge of the Khalig al-Masri and another mosque
in Bulaq (monument no. 334). The building's sahn is surround
Map sheet
29
30
bridge at roof level. The entrance ison the western
facade through a deeply recessed, square muqarnas
portal with inlaid marble geometric kufic pqnels Above the
portal on projecting corbels isan Ottoman painted wood ceiling.
This projection once supported a brick room above, which has
now collapsed The sahn of the mosque appears to have been
enclosed by the Comit6, it now has a corrugated-iron roof
lantern, There isan inscription band around the sahn at a high
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALO6UE
125
207
Facade and minaret of the mosque
of Mughalbay Taz
AH871 / AD1466
208
Palace of Radwan Bey
Map sheet
21
126
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
209
Mosque of Taghribardi
AH844
/ AD1440
210
Mosque of Hasan Pasha Tahir
AH 1224/ AD 1809
tomb of Ahmad Pasha Tahir, the brother of Hasan (see no. 565).
Plan- SCAArchive
211
Mosque of Azbak al-Yusufi
AH900 / AD1494
Azbak, a mamluk of Sultan Gaqmaq, died in AD
1499. His cruciform madrasa is built on a corner
site, very much in the Oaytbay style, with an abun
dance of highly decorative surface treatments A
sabil-kuttab (with its own entrance) stands to the left of Lhe
main portal on the northern side of the building, and a ga'a
once stood to the right of the portal behind the main prayer
space (now demolished). A hawd is located at the extreme
north of the northern facade The ornately carved minaret is
positioned to the right of the portal. Asecondary portal, on the
southern side of the building, isnow blocked. The principal portal
has a muqarnas head, both low- and high-level inscriptions,
and intact metal revetments on its doors. Abent entrance leads
past the tombs of the founder and his wife (actually located in
the northeastern !wan) to the sahn, which is covered by an
ornately carved shukhshaykha and has a geometric inlaid poly
chrome marble floor. Fine carving covers the surfaces of the
voussoirs of the arches to the iwans; the minbar and kursi are
both original.
Map shet
Ma s
References Creswell 1919, 148, Revault and Maury 1979, 21-30: SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 358; Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 150;
Meianecke 1992,11:438-39; Fernandes 1997, 115: Asfour 2000, 253-54,
133-34
213
Sabil of Yusuf al-Kurdi
Tenth century AD/ Sixteenth century Au
This sabil still has its original bronze grilles and
Mapsheet
decorative stone strapwork; most of its portal has
collapsed, however, and the interior is derelict. The
mosque, to which the sabil is attached, appears to be
unlisted, although it possesses many amak decorative features.
The mosque's faqade is composed of a central trilobed portal
with a muqarnas conch and muqarnas niching as squinches,
flanked by carved spandrel panels Symmetrically disposed to
either side of the portal are two tomb chambers, with windows to
Plan SCAArchive
214
Favade of zawiya of 'Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda
AH1142
AD1729
215
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
127
217
Fagade of the mosque of Gaqmaq
AH853 /AD1449
This building is known also (for reasons that remain
unclear) as the mosque of Lagm al-Sa'if. It has a
tnilobed muqarnas portal with an Inscription nam
ing Sultan Gaqmaq as the founder, and a crenellat
ed front. The mosque itself is more interesting than its faade,
Plan SCAArchive
81-85
Map sheet
31
219
Sabil of Yusuf Bey
218
Mosque of Sarghatmish
AH757 1 AD1356
Abutting the northwestern wall of the ziyada of the
mosque of lbo Tulun (no. 220) stands this substan
tial complex, built by an amir of al-Nasir
Muhammad, which contains many fine decorative
details The entrance isthrough an imposing portal, the frame of
which rises slightly above the cornice line of the building. This
has amuqarnas hood, flanked by delicate arabesque carving that
may once have been painted and gilded. To the left of the portal
is an octagonal minaret, and to the right is the tomb chamber,
which projects out into the street following qibla orientation.
The tomb is surmounted by a remarkable double-shelled dome
on a high drum with an inscription band (part of which survives)
and muqarnas cornice above it. The interior of the building follows
a cruciform plan, with living units for students arranged on two
floors between the iwans, which are fronted by pointed arches
A bent entrance leads to the sahr, which has marble paving and
a fountain pavilion at its center surrounded by eight marble
columns (now surmounted by a modern dome in wood). Marble
slabs decorated with arabesques can be seen on the walls of the
qibla iwan, and the mihrab has further carved marble inserts. The
dome over the qibla iwan (a Comit& concrete construction)
follows a profile similar to the existing dome over the tomb
chamber, which contains an inscribed marble cenotaph. The
complex was extensively rebuilt between 1999 and 2003.
Excavations around the perimeter of the building have revealed
a row of shops under the mosque on the southern side. The
mosque is abutted to the north by an Ottoman-period house,
largely reconstructed by the Conit, which serves as the head
quarters of the SCA's Survey Department.
Plan Meinceke 1992, 1.126, and SCAArchive
Mapshiee
24 and 31
References- Creswell 1919, 107,Kessler 1969, 262, 264; Karnouk 1981, 116
and pl. 1is (tabut), Fernandes 19B7b, 90-91; Seton-Williams and
Stocks 1988, 352, Behrens-Abouseif 1989, 121-22: Meinecke 1992,
11222-23, Asfour 2000, 219
128
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
AH1044
Map sheet
31
/ AD1634
220
ibn Tulun
of
Ahmad
Mosque
Mapslier
16 and 23
AH263-65 / AD876-79
The mosque of lbn Tulun-the oldest and largest
extant mosque within the area of Historic Cairo
follows a model imported from Samarra: a court
yard with arcades around it resting on brick piers,
221
Mosque of Salar and Sangar
An 703 f AD1303
Salar and Sangar were great friends who
amirs
The
Mapsheet built a joint mausoleum during the rule of Sultan
31
SBaybars Sangar subsequently became a powerful
amir of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad; his friend
Salar, however, was incarcerated by the sultan and died in
prison. Sangar dedicated the larger of the two tomb chambers
to him The building, with its distinctive composition of two
domes and a minaret, isbuilt on a high outcrop of the Qal'at
al-Kabsh, which gives it a great prominence. The minaret rises
from a square base to the right of the portal, its decorative
treatment recalls the minaret of the Qalawun complex in Bayn
al-Qasrayn (no. 43), Stairs lead from street level up to the portal
with a square muqarnas hood that opens onto a groin-vaulted
entrance vestibule with a second flight of stairs leading up to
the level of the mosque itself and the tomb chambers. Avaulted
corridor, which is open on one side with fine pierced stone
screens patterned with arabesques, gives access to the two
main tombs, ending at a third, smaller stone-domed tomb
(attributed by Ibrahim [1976] to the amir Bashtak, and thus
predating the foundation). The two principal tombs have plas
tered-brick ribbed domes with intact inscriptions at their bases.
The tomb of Salar (nearest the staircase) has afine inlaid mar
ble mihrab a wooden inscription band runs across the walls.
The adjacent tomb of Sangar has an undecorated mihrab with
Plan. After Creswell 1940, 351
a ribbed conch and a second wooden inscription band,
References. Creswell 1919, 44-48; Pauty 1932,104 and 102, fig 4: Creswell
The prayer space is unusual in that it is no"t oriented cor
1940, 332-59; Creswell 1959, 223-29, Grohmanro 1965: Rogers 1969,
rectly to qibla, although the tombs themselves are. The single
387-88; lbrainm 1970-71, 31,38-39; Karnouk 1981, 115,116 and pls.
iwan has a later mihrab in its flank' a vaulted room is located
1.3,1,4 (rninbar, Hanna 1984, 18-19, Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988,
directly above the entrance The sahn was originally open, and
352-57, Behriens-Abouseif 1987, 51-54; Behrens-Abouscif 1989,
the students' cells are arranged around its western and southern
51-57; Swelim 1995, Meneckc 1992, 11.83,136: Bierman 1998, 4, 7,
sides, with fine stone window grilles over their doors. Above the
460-62;
432-33,
42-64;
44, 51, 96, 105, 127, 128, Sayyid 1998,
cells runs a stucco inscription band. Another door in the sahn
O'Kane 1999, 156-57: Swehm 2001 Tabbaa 2002, 70
up the hill
Listing and conservaion: BCCMAA 1882-83 (2nd ed) 22, 32, 48; BCCMAA leads to an open space, through which a route runs
muqarnas
a
trilobed
has
which
complex,
the
of
door
back
to
the
1887-88, 55-56, BCCAAA 1890, 37-43 (with plan), 102, 111,116,
portal The open space behind the complex was used as a
1893 (2nd
BCCMAA 1891, 40, 100: BCCMAA 1892, 99-100; BCCMAA
cemetery; it isnow overwhelmed by debris.
1895, 39-40,
ed.), 114-15; BCCMAA 1894, 38, 44-45. 71; BCCMAA
1897,
41-42, 46-47, 95-96: RCCMAA 1896, 50-51, 53-54, BCCMAA
1902, 35, 120;
27, BCCMAA 1898, 121,BCCMAA 1299, 92, BCCMAA
1908,17, 29,
BCCMAA 1904, 31-32: BCCMAA 1907, 120-21; BCCMAA
1910,
35, 51-52; BCCMAA 1909, 22-25, 34, 59, 116.135-36, BCCMAA
25-26, 36-37, Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 10; BCCMAA 1911,65, 96,
BCCMAA 1912, 82, BCCMAA 1913, 31-32, 52, 69, BCCMAA 1915-19,
19, 366, 389, 533, 624-25, 627, 638, 643, 658, 697, 701,727, 744,
773-74, 793, 89, BCCMAA 1920-24, 16, 43, 49, 55, 95-97, 100, 344,
36D: BCCMAA 1925-26, 16-17, 21, 72, 77, 97, 121; Pauty 1931b,
166-66 n. 2, BCCMAA 1930-32, 3. 13-14, 18, 31,36, 41,57-58, 75,
178, 229; BCCMAA 1933-35, 23-24, 35-36, 41, 47-48, 95-96, 108,
111, 146, 155-56, 158-59, 169-70, 172-73, 177-7B, 180-81, 187,
plans), BCCMIA4
1915-19, 405 795; BCCMAA
Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 147; BCCMAA
1927-29, 92, 94, 140; Pauty 1931b, 166 n 1; BCMAA 1933-35, 147,
1941-45, 60, 90,
1936-40, 13; BCCMAA
159, 182, 265, 269, BCCMAA
208-9, 218, 243-44, 250, 279,300,323-24,330, BCCMAA 1946-53,207
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
129
222
Hawd of Qaytbay
AH880/ AD1475
Map sheetThis watering trough was built in association with
Qaytbay's adjacent mosque (see no. 223). Traces of
31
the trough's tripartite back wall are all that remain
of the structure, together with a badly damaged
inscription band,
Plon, CMP Survey References Creswell
1919, 140-41; Meinecke 1992, 11.409
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1906, 58; BCCMAA 1909, 138: BCCMAA
1910, 13, Herz 1914 [18B2-19101, 89; BCCMAA
1915-19, 794
225
Takiyat al-Sulaymaniya
AH 950! AD1543
223
Mosque of Qaytbay
AH880 / AD1475
Plan- SCAArchive
References: Creswell 1919, 140-41; Behrens-Aboused 1989, 147. SetonWlliams and Stacks 1988,349-50; Mvleinecke 1992, 11.409
Listng and consevattan. BCCMAA 1593, 13-14; BCCMAA 1897, 23, BCCAA 1899, 23, 54-55, 89; BCCMAA 1900, 34-35, 62; BCCMAA 1905,
11-12; BCCMAA 1907, 120; SCCMAA 1909, 138: Herz 1914
[1882-1910, 82; BCCMAA 1913, 69; BCCMAA 1915-19, 403, 794;
BCCMAA 1927-29, 92, 94; BCCMAA 1936-40, 333; BCCMAA
1941-45,
186, 221-22, 234, 279; 2CCMA41946-53,.138, 293
224
AH730 / AD1330
Map sheet Hadim Sulayman Pasha, who built this takiya fol
lowing Cttoman prototypes, was governor of
22
Egypt twice: once from from AD1524 to 1534 and
subsequently from 1536 to 1538. His mosque (no
142) is in the northern enclosure of the Citadel. The street
frontage of this building is commerical, consisting of shop
units above which are duplex residential units accessed from
the north. The northern section of the fagade adjacent to the
portal has collapsed, and some rebuilding (in concrete and
brick) has taken place. Remnants of the main inscription,
dated AH950 (AD1543, after the founder had left Cairo) can
be seen on the trilobed portal, which has stone moldings
and decorative geometric panels and retains its original doors.
The vestibule leads via a staircase to the level of the raised
courtyard, which has its original stone paving. The courtyard is
surrounded by arches supported on antique marble columns,
forming a cloister of shallow plastered-brick pendentive
domes with stone finials. The living units for the Sufis surround
this cloister and are also covered by shallow domes Facing
the entrance on axis is asmall prayer hall with a milrab that
has an intact inscription band; a tomb occupies the south
eastern corner. The southern fagade retains its original bronze
window grilles.
Pan Mostafa 1992, 291
References J. Williams 1969, 459 and 469 n 21; Behrens-Abouseif 1989,
158-59; Bates 1991, 151-53, Raymond 1991, 355-56, BehrensAbouseif 1994, 185, 248-50
Listing and consevation. BCCMAA 1894, 46, 91, 101,132; CCMAA 1901,
126-27; BCCMAA 1909, 111,Herz 1914 [182-19101, 151; BCCMAA
1911,16, 49; BCCMAA 1913, 40, 79, 82, 106; BCCMAA
1914, 157, 163,
BCCMAA 1915-19, 321, 885, 783: BCCMAA 1920-24, 355, 360; SCCMAA 1925-26, 15: SCCMAA 1930-32, 55
Mapsheet
22
130
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
226
AH1159 1AD1746
was formerly known as the sabil of
Map sheet This sabil
228
House of Qaytbay
AT890 / AD1485
Mapsheet
This is a large courtyard house with a fine triplearched maq'ad, the walls of which are painted with
229
Tomb of Yusuf Agha al-Habashi
Mapsheet
a s
Plan: SCA
Archive
1936, 24; Raymond 1979a, 257 (nc. 46) and 265 (no. B8):
References PauLy
Raymond 2000
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1887, 99 (listing); BCCMAA 1909, 28;
Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 71, BCCMAA 1915-19, 784; BCCMAA
1946-53, 140
232
Sabil of Mustafa Musali Shurbagi
Ali1127 / AD1715
This typical Ottoman sabil, which has lost its
upper-story kuttab, is part of a small wikala that
was substantially demolished when a new school
was built at the rear of the site. The front wall of
grille is original.
Mapshreet
M h
Plan: SCAArchlve
21-22, 65; BCCMAA 1899, 66; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 130: BCCMIA
1915-19,781
233
230
Sabil-kuttab of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa'ada
Al 1088
Mapshee
14
/ AD1677
Plan: SCAArchive
References Creswell 1919, 9E, 157; Creswell 1959. 269-70; SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 280; Meinecke 1992, 11:125, 388
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1824, 1-2, BCCMAA 1902, 115 (clas
sification), BCCMAA 1910, 110-11, 116-17,155-57 (historical notice):
lerz 1914 (1882-1910], 76, BCCMAA 1915-19, 808; BCCMAA
1946-53, 348 '
1930-32, 71,177, 191,200, 232; BCCMAA
Index of Monuments with another sabil, no. 150. (It has also
been commonly given the name of the other sabil: Muhammad
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
-*l'
ill
131
234
236
235
Houe of Ahmad Katkhuda al-Razzaz
Ninth century and AH1192/ Fifteenth century and AD1778
Referenccsr Pauty 1933b, 84 (no. 39), Revault and Maury 1979, 35-B6;
Walker and Yassin 1980, 57-61, Maury et al. 1983, 120-32, Jaubert
1995, 195-96, 201-2: OKane 2000, 157-58, 163, 164; Seton-Watson
2000, 85-88, Longeaud 2002
Lsting and conservation: BCCMAA 1897, appendix iv; Herz 1914
[1882-1910], 11; BCCMAA 1915-19, 776; BCCMAA 1920-24, 76, BCCMAA 1930-32, 15, 147, 165; BCCIM 1936-40, 57, 77, 79, OCCMAA
1941-45, 367, BCCMA4
1946-53, 135, 165-86
132
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
Plan. CM? Survey. Note, the plan of the interior, which is inaccessible is
approximate
References. Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a. 285 (no 121): Raymond and
Wiet 1979, 264 (no 30); Denoix et al 1999, 11.60-61
Listng and conservation. 8CCMAA 1890, 59-60 (classification), Herz 1914
[18B2-1910], 155; BCCMAA 1915-19, 791; BCCMAA 1933-35, 332
SCA 2002, 183-86
237
Minaret of the zawiyat al-Hunud
Ca.AH715 / AD1315
This is one of the oldest surviving Bahn Mamluk
minarets in Cairo and isstylistically related to its
Ayyubid predecessors, being constructed of plastered
brick, The dating has been revised by Meinecke
(1992), and it is his date that is given here. The rest of the
zawiya, called 'of the Indians' because it served the Bukharis of
the Qadiriya order, has disappeared. The minaret istoday located
within the precincts of a nursery school; the entrance at first
floor level (which was probably the roof of the missing zawiya)
isinaccessible.
Map sheet
15
Plan SCAArchive
References Creswell 1919, 77; Creswell 1959, 140; Meinceke 1992, ii.117;
Scen-Williams and Stocks 1988. 310; Seton-Watson 2000, 92-94
Listing and conservation BCCMAA
1890, 93, BCCMAA
24, 8CCMAA
1891,
1900, 86, Herz 1914 11882-19101, 76; BCCMAA
1915-19, 778
238
Sabil of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan
All 1049-50 /AD1639-40
Mapsheet Ibrahim Agha was a mamluk of Radwan Bey who,
before his exile inAD1662, built or modified a sub
15
stantial number of structures along the Darb alAhmar, including the mosque of Aqsunqur (no.
123) This sabil was listed by the Comit in the 1915-19
Bulletin in conjunction with the tomb of Ibrahim Khalifa
Guindian; the tomb was subsequently separately registered as
no. 586 (see below) The sabil does, in fact, form a unitary
whole with the tomb and an intervening house (see no. 613),
both of which were also built by Ibrahim Agha. The sabil has
decorative stone strapwork, original bronze grilles, and an
intact inscription. There is also an intact salsabil with hood
inside. It has two entrances: one on the northern elevation with
a flat arch and decorative strapwork, and a subsidiary access
240
Sabil and tomb of 'Umar Agha
An 1063 / AD1652
This small tomb has a plain plastered-brick dome.
The sabil has two original bronze grilles and an
inscription on its northern fagade A domestic qa'a
islocated over the sabil
in place of the more usual
kuttab It would seem that the entire structure once occupied
the whole corner block, having been partially remodeled in the
nineteenth century The house complex to the northeast (U59)
sheet
Malap
15
SCAArchive
References' Pauty 1936, 24 (sabii); Raymond 1979a, 252 (no 34)
tsting and conservation BCCMAA
1B94, 97-98 (classification), 118. 132,
143, BCCMAA 1895, 40, Herz 1914 [1882-191D), 137 (sabil only),
BCCMAA 1915-19, 787, ACCMAA 1933-35, 141, 143, BCCI
1936-40, 224, 225, BCCMAA
1941-45, 15, OCCMAA 1946-53, 183
243
AH1106 / AD1694
This sabil, constructed by a commander of the
Janissaries,is known also as the sabil-kuttab in the
waqf of Balfiya (not to be confused with the sabil and
rab' in the waqf of Balfiya in the same street [see no,
(49B) below]). The fagades have decorative stone strapwork, an
inscription and tiled lutettes over the bronze window grilies at
ground level, and typical arcades at the level
of the kuttab. Marble
water basins and a salsabil with a muqarnas hood survive inter
nally together with a painted wood ceiling. An adjacent wakala,
whose fagade (to the north of the sabil) survives, was probably
included In the isting at some point: a modern apartment block
now occupies most of the interior of the wikala's courtyard
Plon SCAArchive
Map sheet
15
241
Zawiya of Muhammad Durgham
Tenth century AH/ Sixteenth century AD
monument retains its stone
This completely derelict
of two recessed bays with muqarnas and
fag.ede
square-headed muqarnas portal. There is an empty
inscription band and an interesting store water
spout projecting from roof level.
Map sheet
15
Plan SC Archive
References- None
Lsting and conservation BCCMAA
1896, 41-42, 155; BCCMA 1903. 24;
BCCMAA1902, 35-36, 56; iHe 1914 [1882-1910), 50; BCCMAA
1915-19, 777
242
Madrasa of Qutlubugha al-Ehahabi
AH748 AD1347
eMap
sheet
15
244
Hammam of Bashtak
An 742 /An 1341
Bashtak, an amir and the master of the robes of
Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad, was the builder of the
eponymous palace in Bayn al-Qasrayn (no. 34) and
a mosque near Shari' Bur Said, whose minaret and
portal survive [no. 205). His bathhouse has an elaborate ablaq
portal, now located about one and a half meters below ground
level, with a ribbed keel arch, inlaid marble strapwork, and a
dated inscription. The hammam of Bashtak may originally have
been a double bath for men and women (only one half sur
vives); the men's half was in use until relatively recently. The
interior, probably remodeled in the Ottoman period, preserves
many typical elements of bathhouse design.
Plan Dow 1996, 121,and SCA
Archive
References: Herz 1904b; Cresweil 1919. 10f Pauty 1933a, 58 (no. 30);
Map sheet
15
Raymond 1969, 133 (nos 12 and 13); Raymond 1970, 354: Mrinecke
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
133
245
AM690 / AD1291
Ahmad ibn Sulayman was a descendant of the lfali
family from Iraq and was a shaykh of the brother
hood in Egypt. This is one of the few foundations in
Cairo with the designation of ribat, or hospice for
the poor [see also nos. 61 and [141]). The base of the building
appears to be two meters below present ground level, and the
site is fenced off.There is an outer (modern) stone wall, with a
roofless chamber beyond, adjacent to a plastered-brick dome
over the founder's tomb. The main faQade and the southwestern
wall are Comit restorations. The building is remarkable for its
three mihrabs: two in the prayer hall and one in the tomb
chamber. All have stuccoed surrounds with inscriptions; that in
the tomb chamber has a unique form of decoration with inlaid
pieces of glass.
Plan Creswell 1959, 220
Map sheet
15
11:72;
Carboni 2003
Usting and corservation: BCCMAA 1910, 69-70 (classification), 147-49
(historical notice), Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 9; BCCMAA 1910, 147-49,
BCCMAA 1911, 9: 1CCA4 1912, 66, BCCMAA 1915-19, 776; BCCMAA 1933-35, 140, 142, 157, 171,179; BCCMAA 1946-53, 81, 286
246
AlH1040 / AD1630
This sabil was once attached to a wikala, fragments
of which survive (see U74). It has two original
bronze grilles, a tiled lunette and roundels with tile
inlays, and an elaborate riarble inscription. The
kuttab has been destroyed. Adjacent to'tIe sabil is an unlisted
stone arch that once formed the entrance to a hara.
Plan. SCAArchive
Map sheet
15
References: Pauty 1936, 23, 24; J. Wiiliams 1969, 457: Raymond 1979a,
248 (no 20)
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA
1903, 54; Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 131:
BCCMAA 1915-19, 783
247
AH 747 / AD1346
This was the entrance to the palace of Mangak al
Yusufi, whose mosque (no. 138) is in the Bab alWazir cemetery. It seems appropriate that he, as
armorer (silohdar), should have built his palace
here.at-the entrance to the street of the sword market- The
gate has a shallow stone dome, faint traces of the inscription
band within are still visible. Three stone arches survive to the
south of the gate, but all other remains of the palace have
now disappeared
Map sheet
15
Plan. SCAArchive
References. Creswell 1919, 104; Meinecke 1992, 11:209, 387
134
DESCRIPTIVE.
CATALOGUE
248
Mosque of Khayrbak
249
Palace of Alnaq al-Nasiri
ca. An 730 / AD1329-30
This palace is wrongly dated and attributed in the
Map
Index of Monuments to Alin Aq, the cup-bearer to
Sultan Ashraf Khalil ibn Qalawun (AH693 / AD
1294). In fact the founder seems to have been
Alnaq, the viceroy of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad. The palace
was extensively remodeled by Khayrbak at the time of the
building of his adjacent mosque and tomb (no. 248) in the
early sixteenth century. The massive stone structure of the
palace is today roofless and ruinous, although its outline
remains clear. There is a square-headed portal on the western
side with overhanging horizontal muqarnas decoration, stables
on the ground floor, and avast qa'a on the first floor with two
enormous arched iwans (similar in style to those of the Bashtak
Palace [no. 34]). Between the palace itself and the mosque of
Khayrbak lie the partially ruined remains of a separate zawlya
with its original entrance between the palace and the mosque
(see U57). To the south, the palace is flanked by the hawd of
Ibrahim Agha Mustahflzan (no. 593). The Budletin of 1915-19
mistakenly lists no. 249 as the hawd of 'Abd al-Rahman
Katkhuda, which is either a mislocation of no. 260 or a misat
tribution of the hawd of Ibrahim Agha.
psheet
References;Creswell 1919, 151; [1zme 1971, 16; L6ine 1972b, 80-83, 13D;
250
Mosque of Aytmish al-Bagasi
Ali 785 1 AD1383
Aytish was an amir of Sultan Barquq who subse
Mashe
quently became the regent for Barquq's son Farag.
8
When Farag came to rule in his own right, Aytmish
fled Cairo and was killed in Damascus in AD1400.
His (empty) tomb chamber in this mosque has a distinctive spi
ral-ribbed brick-and-plaster dome with an inscription at its
base. The main fagade has a high-level inscription band; two
further inscription bands at low and high level adorn the main
portal. This is flanked to the northwest by a sabil, on the cor
ner of the block leading to the Bab al-Wazir. Thesabil has a fine
inscription and cup blazon on its wooden lintel, but the grille
below is not original and the ground level has now risen beyond
the bottom of the window into the sabil. There also seems at
one time to have been a projecting balcony running along the
northwestern corner of the building. The Comit6 restored the
stonework on the northern fagade and introduced steel ties
into the main fagade to counteract its outward inclination. The
interior of the mosque is plain, with a newly tiled mihrab, a
damaged painted wood ceiling over the main awan, and a roof
with lantern over the sahn. Aytmish's foundation originally
251
Hawd-kuttab of Aytmish al-Bagasi
AH785 / AD1383
This listing is the subject of some confusion. A
hawd-kuttab stands on the site opposite the complex
of Tarabay (see no, 255), to which it isjoined by the
Bab al-Wazir. The hawd appears to comprise two
parts: an enclosed room with a plastered-brick water tank
faced in stone; and an external re-entrant wall to the south
east with a lengthy inscription above what must once have
been the site of a watering trough. This latter, external part of
the hawd would appear to be Aytmish's original foundation
while the room containing the water tank (roofed with a stone
groin vault) may be a later construction, perhaps contemporary
with the Bab al-Wazir itself. The kuttab above is separately
accessed from a staircase to the nght of the enclosed tank-room,
and has typical double-arched openings on each of its main
elevations. The Bufletin of 1915-19 describes this listing as
"porte, abreuvoir et kouttAb" of Tarabay, which indicates that
the hawd-kuttab and gate were seen as contemporary with the
complex of Tarabay (no. 255) to the north.
Map sh
Plan:CMP Survey
References Seten-Watson 2000, 124
Listing and conservatron. BCCMAA 1886,5 (inscription); BCCMAA 1903 54
(kuttab); BCCAM 1909, 88 (kuttab), Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 156,
BCCMAA 1915-19, 804
255
Door, tomb, and sabil-kuttab
of Tarabay al-Sharifi..AH909 / AD1503
BESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
135
256
Qubbat al-Komi
Mapsheet
15
258
Zawiya of Hasan al-Rumi
AH929 / AD1622
This small Sufi Zawiya, now buried some two meters
below ground level, has a fine pointed arch portal
with cushioned voussoirs and the remains of an elab
orate inscription over its door. Another inscription
survives over the window to the left of the entrance. The left
hand corner of the fagade is chamfered, while that on the right
has a carved stone column embellishing it. There seems to have
been a sabil emplacement originally on this side of the building,
but most ancillary structures have now been demolished.
Mapshet
Plan: SCAArchive
References: Behrens-Abouself 1990, 49-55, Behrens-Abousef and
Fernandes 1984, 111-12, Fernandes 1985
Listingandconservofon:BCMAA 1889,73; Herz 1914 [1882-191D], 74, BCCMA 1912, 105; BCCMAA 1915-19, 799; BCCMAA
1946-53, 75-76, 290
260
References. None
257
Bimaristan of al-Mu'ayyad Shaykh
AH821-23 / AD1418-20
136
DESCRIPII VE CATALOGUE
261
Qubbat al-Muzaffar 'Alam al-Din Sangar
AH722 / AD1322
The ribbed stone dome of this tiny mausoleum is
one of the earliest in Cairo; the structure was orig
inally attached to a now-vanished mosque. The
dome has an inscription band around its base, and
there is another inscription inside the building. A new apart
ment block looms over the mausoleum, and this has actually
sliced into the earlier structum. Afurther threat isposed by the
Map sheet
23
surface ground water and the fact that the tomb isnow some
11-133-34
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1909, 48; BCCMAA 1910, 26, 116, lerz
1914 (1882-19101, 132, BCCMAA 1915-19, 92-94, 801; BCCMAA
1946-63, 286
262
Sabil in the waqf of Yusuf Bey
Ali 1186/ AD1772
Plan SCAArchive
References Raymond 1979a, 283 [no. 115)
Listrn and conservation BCCMAA 1892, 75 (classification); Herz 1914
1914, 129; 2CCMAA
1913, 87, BCCMAA
[18B2-1910], 166, BCCMAA
1933-35.26, 39
1915-19, 804: BCCMAA 1925-26, 17, 51, 69; BCCMAA
263
Tomb of Hasan Sadaqa
Map
psheet
23
AH 715-21 1AD1316-21
Properly known as the tomb of the amir Sunqur alSadi (a mamluk of al-Nasir Muhammad), this com
plex was originally constructed as a madrasa for
265
Sabil-kuttab and rab' of al-Qizlar
AH1028 1 AD1618
This is an interesting example of an Ottoman
Mapshee
sabil-kuttab that iscombined with living units and
shops, built by a black eunuch of the Ottoman
court called Mustafa Agha. The composition of the
fagade has the sabil-kuttab occupying its center. To the left are
two shop units and the staircase that leads to the apartments:
to the right are a further three shops and the arched and vault
ed entrance passage that must once have led to a large court
yard behind the building (now vanished). The sabil has a bronze
grille and a painted wood ceiling. The building was most
recently restored by the SCA in 2003-04.
Plan Depaule et al. 1985, 46
References, Pauty 1936, 23 Raymond 1979a, 246 (no.16), Depaule et al
1985
18B7-8, 20. BCCMAA 1890, 86, SCCListing and conservation: BCCA4AA
MAA 1892, 109-10; BCCMAA 1894, 9D,BCCMA 1901,107,SCCMAA
1902, 116,152-54 (historical notice); Herz 1914 [1882-1910, 98;
BCCMAA 1915-19, 802; CCMAA 1946-53, 183
266
Palace of Yashbak
AH731-38 / AD1330-37
sheet
Masp
16 and 23
for U105
Listing and conservation* BCCMAA 1892, 75-76 (classification); BCCMAA
1915-19, Be, 106, 543,
1910, 90, Herm1914 11882-19101, 74; BCCMAA
553, 695, 764, 803; BCCMAA 1925-26, 17, 69, BCCMAA 1930-32,
270, BCCMAA 1933-35, 103,105; Fanfoni and Burn 1980
DESCRIPTIVE
'eKTAL
G0UE
137
267
269
AH753 1 AD1352
al-Din Taz al-Nasiri (d AD1362) was
Sayf
amir
The
Mapsheet
one of the many sons-in-law of Sultan al-Nasir
23
Muhammad and a powerful amir of Sultan Hasan.
He also endowed a madrasa (still extant) in
Jerusalem. The site of his palace in Cairo currently comprises
two large open spaces, extending the width of an entire block
from east to west. The enormous maq'ad on the southern end
of the site dates from the seventeenth century, as do various
other elements around its perimeter. The palace was converted
into a girls' school under Khedive Isma'il; it currently serves as
storerooms for the Ministry of Education. Of the Mamluk parts
of the palace, only the entrance portal and the ruins of an
enormous qa'a adjacent to the maq'ad at first-floor level survive.
The portal is trilobed, with a muqarnas hood and squinches, and
leads to a cross-vaulted hall. The ga'a still preserves a part of
its painted wood inscription band on its eastern wall, which has
been exposed by the collapse of the remainder of the room. It
is recorded that the construction of the palace for Taz was
overseen by a friend: Mangak al-Yusufi. A restoration of the
complex was commenced by the SCA in 2002 and was still
ongoing in 2004.
Plant Revault and Maury 1977, 54
References Creswell 1919, 105-B; Pauty 1933b, 43. Izine 1972b, 105-8,
130, Revault and Maury 1977, 49-60; Burgoyne 1987, 399-400 (for
biography); Seton-Williaes and Stocks 1988, 334, Meinecke 1992,
11,218
LWshng
and conservation BCCMAA
1882-83 (2nd ed), 5B-58, BCCMAA
1891, 23-24. UCCMA
1892, 16, BCCMAA 1891, 15, 38-39, 82, 93,
101,112,132-33, BCCMAA 1900, 57-58; BCC&dAA
1904, 23; BCCMAA
1907, 49-50, Hera 1914 [1882-1910), 157; BCCMAA 1914, 60, SCCMAA1915-19, 514, 804; BCCMAA 1927-29, 187; BCCMAA 1936-40,
8257; BCCMAA 1946-53, 290
AH761
AD1359
270
Tomb of Safi al-Din Gawhar
AH714 f AD1315
268
272
Map sheet
23
138
DESCRIPTIVE
C AT AL 0C HlF
CATAIVGE
(277)
Tomb of 'Ali al-Gizi
Twelfth century (?)AHf Eighteenth century (?)AD
This small tomb and mosque are located close to
mapsheet the mosque of Sayyida 'Ayesha (no. 37B). The build
ing has been completely modernized with new
stone facings and structural modifications. It was
deregistered sometime after 1924.
Plan None
References: None
Listing and conseivation. BCCMAA 1892, 53; Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 18:
1915-19, 796, BCCMAA 1920-24, 373
BCCMAA
278
Bab Qaytbay (al-Qarafa)
AU899 / AD1494
Originally thought to be a rebuilding by Sultan
aytbay of the Ayyubid Bab al-Carafa, this gate
has been proved to be a separate construction (the
Ayyubid gate lies some thirty meters to the south,
off the limits of this map), The cartouches of Gaytbay are still
visible in the spandrels of the archway of the gate. Slightly to
the southeast are the remains of the sixteenth-century tomb of
Timurbay al-Husayni (monument no. 161). Rabbat (1995) states
that the gateway was demolished in the 1970s during the con
struction of the Salah Salim Highway, and then rebuilt in 1987
Maopsheet
I
Plan: CAArchrve
References:Creswell 1919,146; Creswell 1959, 57-58, Meinecke 1992,11437
Listing and conservation. BCCMM 1896, 154, Herz 1914 [1882-1910, 94;
BCCMAA 1915-19, 802; BCCIAA 1941-45, 186, 221-22, 245, 259,
26B, 291, 321, 338, 340; Rabat 1995, 194
References- Creswell 1919, 128-29; Behrens-AbouiSeif 19B7, 101,SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 376-77; Meinecke 1992, 11:213
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1895, 57, BCCMAA 1896, 11;BCCMAA
1915-19, 800
1902, 52, Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 119: BCCMsAA
289
Mausoleum of al-Sultaniya
Map
290
(287)
Ma
shee
22 and 23t
Plan SCAArchive
References: None
esting
288
Mp she
nd1
291
Mausoleum of Qawsun
AH736 / AD1335-36
Mapsheet
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
139
Oawsun
303
Mausoleuni of Yakub Shah al-Mihmandar
AH901 / AD1495-96
The domed mausoleum is paired with a vaulted cis
tern in this unusual building, which was construct
ed by an amir of Sultan Qaytbay. The entrance
fagade has a lengthy inscription band, set within
elaborate strapwark panels, that commemorates the Mamluk
tank below. The trilobed portal has now lost whatever stairs led
east are the partially demolished remains of the viaduct that led
Mapshee
2
305
Well of Salah al-Din (Bir Yusuf)
AH572-89 / AD1176-93
Map sheet
g
140
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
307
Ayyubid wall
All 566-72
/ AD 1171-76
to the west of the Burg al-Zafar. Also shown here are the Bab
al-Gedid
('the New Gate'), which had a bent entrance (now
(tower north of the Bab al-Gedid. The second tower south of the 8ab
al-Giedid has its upper floor plan shown, while the others have their
lower floor plans represented.
References'Creswi 1919, 66-69; Creswell 1959. 49-51 (Burg al-Zafar),
51-52 (tower to west of the Burg al-Zafar), 45-48 [Bab al-Gedid
and other towers): Seton-Wriams and Stocks 1988, 227; Warner
1999, 290
Listing and conservqton: CCMAA 1886, 6-7. BCCMAA 1889, 131-32 and
pIS V-VI; BCCMAA 1898, 36-37; CCMAA 1900, 28; BCCMAA
1902,
25, BCCMAA 1905, 38; BCCMAA
1907. 21; Herz 1914 [1882-1910],
167: BCCMAA
1946-53, 98, 118-19. 141,207
Mapsheet
project has been taking place to the east of the Bab al-Nasr
since 1999, adjacent to and including the walls, which are
being largely rebuilt. This has resulted in the complete physical
separation of the wall from its context.
Plan. Creswell 1959, 52
References. Creswell 1919, 66-69; Creswell 1959, 52-53; BehrensAbouscif 1989, 67-71
Listing and conservation* BCCMAA 1900, 102; BCCMAA 1902, 119. BCC1906, 18, BCCMAA
MAA 1903, 53; BCCMAA 1904, 17-18; BCCA4AA
Map sheet
Plan, SCAArchive
References Seeno. 307, map sheets 4, 5,6, and 14
Liseing and conservation: BCCMAA 1904, 35
Map sheet
Map sheer
Map sheet This section of the Ayyubid wall of Cairo was not
recorded by Creswell , since it lay beneath rubbish
mounds until recently. Excavations from the 1980s
have, however, revealed a section of wall some 200
meters long with one small round-fronted tower and one large
round-fronted tower. The latter has a unique hexagonal dou
ble-height vaulted space (substantially collapsed) at its center.
A small fragment of this wall can also be seen to the south,
adjacent to the Bab al-Tawflq (U10).
PanmCMP Survey
References: Warner 1999. 289-90, 294-96
Listing and conservation- None
Plan SCAArchive
References See no. 307, map sheets 4,5, 6,7, and 14
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1900, 32
Map sheet
308
Takiya and sabil-kuttab of Sultan Mahmud
AH1164 / AD1750
Plan Creswell 1959, 44 (for Burg al-Maqlab and first tower to south), CMP
Surveyed AgeKhan Trust for Culture (for remainder of wall)
References Creswell 1969, 43-45; Sayyid 1998, 634-43; Warner 1999,
295-96; Pradines, Michaudel, and Monchamp 2002
lap she
DE S CR IP T IV E CATAL O G U E
141
309
Sabil-kuttab of Bashir Agha Dar Sa'ada
AK1131 /AD 1718
311
Sabi] in the waqf of Kulsun
Map sheet
29
312
AII 803-8
/ AD1400-6
Pion SCAArchive
References: Creswell 1919, 118; Mostafa 1982. 103-5: Seton-Williams and
Stocks 1980, 345; Meinecke 1992, 11304
Listing and conscrvation* BCCMAA 1886, 12, BCCMAA 1890, 78-79; BCCMAA 1907, 103-4; 8CCMAA 1909, 91-92; BCCMAA 1910,11-12; Herz
1914 (1882-19101, 142; BCCMAA 1911,45, 50, 59, 125-31 (historical
notice); BCCMAA 1915-19, 795: BCCMAA 1936-40, 109
(317)
Minaret of the mosque of Gaqmaq
Before AH857
AD1453
142
DESCRIPTIVE
CATAIOVUE
C
A T ALOGCUE
Plan: None
References* Creswell 1919, 133
1902, 98; BCCMAA
.stng and conservaton CCMAA1889, 74; BCCMAA
1904, 79; BCCMAA
1905, 11; Herz 1914 [1882-19101, 48; BCCMAA
1936-40, 213, 227-29
321
Mapsheet
24
322
Remains of the palace of al-Ghuri
AH9D6-22 1 AD1501-16
323
Hawd of Shaykhu
324
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay
AH884 / AD1479
To judge from its size, it is likely that this building
was designed to be rather more than merely a
sabil-kuttab, though it issaid to be the first exam
ple of a freestanding fountain-school in Cairo. The
building was the object of extensive remodeling by the Comit&,
which introduced concrete floors, a terrazzo staircase, and a
new wooden kuttab-type element on the fagade. The only parts
of the building that can be securely identified as being original
are the entry portal, sabil fagades and interior, and the enor
mous double cistern below the sabil, accessed by astone spiral
stair. The entry portal and fagades, with their lavish stone carv
ing and inlaid marble decoration, are characteristic of the
Qaytbay period. The building was restored by a Spanish team in
1998-2000 and now houses the Suzanne Mubarak Centre for
Islamic Civilization.
Map sheet
325
Gate of the Darb al-Labbana
Eighth century AH/ Fourteenth century AO
The gate to 'the Alley of the Milkmaid' isone of the
last surviving and most heavily decorated of the
ancient gates into the haras of Cairo. Fragments of
blue-faience and black-marble inlay attest to the
past beauty of this gate, which isessentially a single inner arch
with cushioned voussoirs. There is nothing behind the door
today, and the adjacent site has been cleared to the ground,
awaiting new construction
Map shee
S
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
143
326
Takiya of Taqi al-Din al-Bistami
328
Sabil-kuttab of Shabin Agha Ahmad
AH 1086 /AD 1675
AH847 / AD1443
Map sheet
22
References. Pauty 1936, 23; Raymand 1979a, 255-56 (no. 42): Hanna
329
Sabil-kuttab of Muhammad
Mustafa al-Muhasibgi
All 1129
144
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
AD1716
Plan SCAArchive
References. Burgoyne 1987, 419 (for biography), Minecke 1992, 11:364;
Tantawi 1994, 112-14; Rabbat 195, 199
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1898, 24-25, Herz 1914 [1882-1910],
xxvill, BCCMAA 1913, 129, BCCMAA 1915-19, 803
327
Tomb of Sandal al-Mangaki
330
Gate of Malika Safiya
AH1019 / AD1610
331
Sabil-kuttab of Ibrahim Katkhuda Mustahfizan
Map sheet
28
AH 1167 f AD1753
iserroneously attrib
bow-fronted sabil
large
This
uted in the Index of Monuments to Ibrahim Bey al-
Map sheet
332
Takiyat al-Gulshani
AH926 / AD1519
This building was the first takiya inCairo, founded
by the colorful shaykh of the Khalawati order of
dervishes, who died in AD1534, aged over ahundred.
Much of the perimeter courtyard structure and
fagade seems to have been subsequently remodeled, leaving the
tomb of the founder as the only original element The simple
trilobed portal, approached by a steep flight of steps and
flanked by a drinking spout with an inscribed marble dedication
dated AH1258 (AD1842), has two inscription bands. Much of
the fagade to the west has collapsed. The separate stone
domed tomb chamber in the center of the courtyard islined
internally and faced externally with eighteenth-century blue
and-white Iznik-style tiles
Map sheet
21
(334)
Mac'ad of the house of al-Manawi
AH 1169 /AD 1755
335
Sabil-kuttab of 'Abbas Agha
AH1088 / AD1677
This sabil-kuttab was originally built by 'All
Katkhuda 'Azaban and restored by the Ottoman
23
eunuch 'Abbas Agha in AD1677. The street fagade
"as two inscriptions and one original window grille.
The interior of the sabil has an inlaid marble pavement, salsabil
emplacement, and painted wood ceiling. The water tank behind
the salsabil survives. A small side chamber in the kuttab
extends over the fageade of the adjacent wikala (no. 548), which
may have housed the teacher employed in the kuttab.
Plan: CMP Survey
References Pauty 1936, 24, Raymond 1979a, 256 (no 44); Hathaway 1994,
308 and n 67
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1887-80, 41, BCCMAA 1896, 20: Herz
1915-19, 797, BCCMA 1930-32, 248
1914 [1882-19101, 18, BCCMAA
(336)
Remains of the palace of Muhammad
ibn Souwaydan
AH1028 / AD1618
337
Sabil-kuttab of Ruqayya Dudu
AH1174 / AD1761
('the Parakeet') was the daughter of
Dudu
Ruqayya
Map sheet
Sedawya Shahin (see no. 615); this ornate sabil
15
kuttab was built in her memory by her mother. The
bow-fronted tripartite fagade is flanked by theatri
cal 'wings: and the stonework iselaborately carved with strap
work and other geometrical devices. Marble columns separate
the satil windows, which have curving bronze grilles. The
fagade is also embellished with inset panels of blue-and-white
tiles. The structure of the kuttab above issimilarly elaborate,
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
145
339
Bayt al-Sihaymi
AH1058-1211
351
Khan al-Zarakisha
Ca.AH915 / AD1509
146
DESCRIPTIVE
352
/ AD 1648-1796
CATALOGUE
Fatimid Wall
AH480 1 AD1087
This listing ishere used to cover the Fatim id wall
between the Bab al-Nasr and the Bab al-Futuh,
which also extends some way to the west before
being joined by the Ayyubid wall (see no. 307). It is
also used for a small part of the wall appearing on map sheet
25 (below). Attached to the section of the wall running
between the Bab al-Futuh and the Bab al-Nasr are three large
square-fronted towers that are built of ashlar masonry over a
rubble care, with columns set into them horizontally to provide
reinforcement. The portion of the wall to the west of the Bab
al-Futuh includes a square stone tower containing a staircase
and a vast chamber with several reused pharaonic stone frag
ments, and another round-fronted tower. It was this wall that
was the object of Creswell's interest when he achieved,
through the agency of the Comit in the 1940s, his aim of
urban clearance outside the wall with a view to revealing its
true appearance. This process included the demolition of the
mosque of 'Ayesha al-Sutuhiya (no. 558). The listing '352' is
applied today to all the city walls of Cairo indiscriminately
whether of Fatimid of Ayyubid date, but this map reverts to
the distinction found in the 1924 Map of Mohammedan
Monuments of Cairo: no. 307 for Ayyubid walls and no. 352 for
Fatimid walls.
Map sheet
18
tower)
References: Creswell 1919, 54-56; Creswell 1952, 181-96; BehrensAbousif 1989, 67-71
Listing and conservation BCCMAA
1899, 69; Herz 1914 [1882-1910], 132,
BCCMAA
1915-19, 789, BCCMAA 1936-40, 181-96, SCA2002, 58
357
Tomb of al-Shurafa
Before AH901 / AD1496
(353)
Zawiyat al-Arbain
AH1267 ( AD 1850
Plan. None
References. None
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1892, 14-15; BCCMAA 1894, 70: Herz
1914 [1B92-1910], 22, BLTMAA 1925-26, 110-11
References- None
Listing and conservation: BCCMA4 1913, 55; BCCMAA 1914, 67, 108-9.
SCCMAA 1915-19, 798
355
House of 'Abd al-Wahid al-Fasi
Tenth century AHI Sixteenth century An
This listing is for the remaining parts (including a
sabil) of a formerly large Ottoman domicile, which
isarrayed around a courtyard. The sabil, which has
a fine painted wooden ceiling, is located on the
northwestern corner of the site. The fagade of the sabil has
stone corbels to the projecting first floor and wooden corbels to
the second floor The upper levels of the building are totally
derelict, and the courtyard is used for storage; the sabil iscur
rently occupied by a shop The courtyard has an Ottoman-style
fagade at the west, but the main entrance leading to it is
obscured by modern shops and isdifficult to locate. The ga'a
that is shown on the map plan survives, but was not accessible
at the time of writing.
Map sheet
20
356
Bab al-Harat al-Mabyada
AH1084 / AD1673
Map sheet
12
358
Sabil-kuttab of Nafisa al-Bayda
AI 1211 (AD1796
359
Tomb of 'Ali Negm
Eleventh century AHI Seventeenth century AD
The date given in the Index for this monument
appears to have been derived from one of the
inscriptions on the favade of the building record
ing a restoration in the seventeenth century AD.
The tomb itself is likely to be much older, possibly dating from
the early fifteenth century, which is the date of the tiles on
the qibla wall of the zawiya. The tomb is surmounted by a
small store dome that has an inscription band around its
base. Inaddition to the Mamluk tiles, the qibla wall has inlaid
marble panels, obscured by overpainting. The mihrab has an
original carved inscription above it, which has also been cov
ered in paint.
Map sheet
21
D)E SCR
IP TI V E
ERPIECATALOGUE
147
360
365
AH904 / AD1499
Map sheet
Usting and conservation: BCCMAA 1913, 54-55, BCCMAA 1914, 66, 83,
BCCMAA 1915-19, 802
(366)
Sabat in the waqf of al-Fakahani
(361)
Sabil and house of Hasan
(Sabil Darb al-Masmat)
AH1193 1AD 1779-80
was situated adjacent to the mosque
building
This
Map sheet
of Mahmud Muharram at no. 5, Darb al-Masmat. It
12
%as declassified in the late 1920s and was subse
q'uently demolished; the grille, inscription, and tiles
from the fagiade may have gone to the Islamic Museum.
Plan None
Plan. None
References' Raymond 19790, 283 (no 117)
Listing end conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19, 788: BCCMAA
1927-29,7
363
Sabil of Ibrahim Shurbagi Mustahfizan
(367)
Faaade of the wikalat al-Kharbutli
AH1176 / AD1762-63
Mapsheet
20
AH1106 / AD1694
Plon None
References Raymond and Wiet 1979, 263 (no 23)
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1915-19, 779, BCCMAA 1920-24, 259,
BCCMAA 1930-32, 67: C.Williams 2002, 472
(368)
Shaykh al-Qayati
364
AN1015 / AD1606
Mapsheet This was an Ottoman house with a maqad, of
which only a tiny fragment (with a painted wood
21
inscription) survives. There seems little to justify
the continued presence of this structure on the
Index of Monuments.
Plan' None
References:Paut 1933b, 81 (no 31), Pauty 1936, 37
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 775, BCCMAA 1930-32. 7
148
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
Map shee
21
369
Waterwheel
AH712 / AD1312
with a
Creswell
1924, 158, Creswell 1959, 257-58; Melnecle 1992.
References
11:112
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 803, BCCMAA 1941-45, 58
370
(374)
Zawiya and sabil-kuttab of Shaykh Murshid
AH940 / AD1533-34
Map sheet
(375)
Mapsheet
intact render.
Plan' CMP Survey
References Meinecke 1992,11.2
Listing and conservatfon BCCMAA 1915-19, 797, BCCMAA 1946-53, 249
(371)
Zawiya of Udah Basha
Map sheet
AH1084 /AD1673
This is one of several buildings constructed by the
15
Plan' None
Relerences. Pauty 1933b, 85-86 (no. 41)
1915-19, 778
Listing and conseration. OCCMAA
376
Sabil of the amir Khalil
AH1174 /AD 1761
has an intact marble inscription and
sabil
Map sheet This
grille. The kuttab has been
window
only one
15
destroyed. Half of the fagade is a Comite recon
struction from 1931, according to a date
inscribed on one of the blocks.
Pan. SCA Archive
References: Pauty 1936, 24, Raymond 1979a, 279 (no. 104)
Listing and conservation: BCCMM 1915-19, 799
149
377
Mosque of Qara Muhammad Pasha
apsheet
10
AH1113 / AD1701
Muhammad 'Ali was a governor of Egypt (r. AD
1699-1704) who intended his foundation to serve
(ciassification),
BCCMA1946-53, 249
(378)
395
Fagade of the wikala of Nafisa al-Bayda
AH1211 / AD1796
This listing does not extend to the wikala itself,
which is probably an Ayyubid foundation. The
fagade would appear to be part of Nafisa alBaydas refurbishment of the block that included
the building of her sabil-kuttab on the southwestern corner
(no. 358). The fagade was partially restored by the Comit, but
the second floor on the northern side was not replaced. The
interior of the wikala is approached through a fine stone portal;
the courtyard itself isfilled with invasive structures. Within one
of these are the remains of a stone door with decorative strap
work-perhaps a part of a zawiya or sabl at the center of the
courtyard. The stone arches that define the perimeter of the
courtyard still stand at ground level, and much of the structure
of the first floor also survives. The fagade was restored in 2003
by the FAP.
Plan. SCAArchlve
Map sheet
20and2
References: Pauty 1936, 33, Aalund 1980, 40, Badr and Crecius 1995,
133-49: ARCEfEAP 1996b; ARCE/EAP 2004b
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA
1915-19, 781; BCCMAA 1946-53, 200
AH1175 / AD1762
Plan: SCAArchive
References. Pauty 1936, 12: Semeh 1946, 92-96; Raymond 1972, 247 (no.
21.);
al-Amrouss 1994, 38-49
Listng and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 796; BCCMAA 1920-24, 49,
95-96, 258, 373: BCCMAA
1930-32, 52-53
382
396
Wikala and sabil of 'Abbas Agha
AH1106 / AD1694
wikala for coffee merchants, of which
a
was
Map sheet This
only the first section of the arched stone entrance
survives. Although the building was classified in its
entirety in 1930-32, the interior of the monument
is now occupied by a modern school.
Plan. SCAArchive (portal only)
References. Pauty 1936, 33: Scharabi 1978, 161: Raymond and Wiet 1979.
260-61 (no. 1); Raymond 1979a, 259 (no 62), Aalund 1980, 39;
Meinecke 1980a, 101,Hathaway 1994, 303 and n, 45, 308
Listin and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 785; BCCVdAA 1930-32, 32
(classification), 248-49; BCCMAA 1936-40, 19-20
150
DESCRIPTIVE
CATAl
O0G11F
397
Wikala and sabil of al-Naqadi
AH1027 /AD 1618
wikala under
Mapsheet Raymond and Wiet (1979) mention this
the name 'al-Maghrabr' indicating the presence of
19
traders from Morocco The stone structure of the
wikala is intact at ground-floor level and is current
ly used as a workshop for making sacks. The sabil is located to
the east of the entrance to the wikala and has an elaborately
decorated wooden ceiling, as well as traces of an original inlaid
marble floor. It has been restored and now serves as an office of a
nongovernmental organization for the Gamallya area. The whole
building was deregistered and then subsequently re-registered
as a monument (without aspecific number) in 1984. The number
given here is that of the 1947 Index.
Plan- CMP Survey
References Pauty 1936, 33; Scharabi 1978, 161,Raymond 1979a, 246 (no.
15); Raymond and Wiet 1979, 281 (no 212), Aalund 1980. 39
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1915-19, 789, BCCMAA 1933-35, 26,
32 (classification), 39 ,
401
Sabil-kuttab of Tusun Pasha
Al 1236 / AD1820
This building is oe of a pair of commemorative
sabils in the Turkish style built for deceased sons
of Muhammad 'Ali.The other, for Isma'il (no, 402), is
located on the Bayn al-Qasrayn. The decoration of
the sabil-in wood, metal, marble, and painted plaster-is lavish
and rococco. Particularly noteworthy are the bronze grilles, th9
wooden projecting eaves, the marble inscription plaques, and
the wooden dome over the sabil room. Atwo-story school, with
a suite of rooms, flanks the sabil. Restoration of the building,
by the EAP, was completed in 2003, during the course of
which a large cistern beneath the sabil was discovered.
Map sheet
398
Wikalat Bazar'a
Late eleventh century AH / seventeenth century AD
This building is one of the rare wikalas that preserves its upper
demoliMap shneetstories relatively intact. It was saved from
tion in 1974. Raymond and Wiet (1979) list it under
Ms
the name 'Hasan Katkhuda Abu Shanab and the
Description de ltgypte under the name 'al-Kihiyal
This wikala was the subject of a detailed study and project pro
posal by the architect Fleming Aalund in the late 1970s. The
building was restored by the SCA In 2000
Plan. Meinecke 198Da, 122
References: Pauty 1936, 33, Scharabi 1978, 162; Raymond and Wict 1979,
276 (no. 163), Aalund 1980. 3E-36; Leemhuis 1980: Meinecke 1980a,
119-39
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 786: BCCMA4A 1930-32, 33
1936-40, 1B-20; Aalund 198D, 39-41, C
(classification), OCCMAA
Williams 2002, 464
(399)
Wikalat al-Firakh
Eighth century (?)AH/ Fourteenth century (?) AD
The wikalat al-Firakh was originally constructed by Sultan
of the waqf of
Ma sheet Barquq and subsequently became part
in the
located
was
It
Muhammad.
Bey
Sulayman
18
Gamallya, oppposite the entrance to the Harat alGuwanrya, which was known also as the Harat alRum (not to be confused with the better-known Harat al-Rum
near the Bab Zuwayla). The building was delisted and destroyed
in the 1950s.
20
Plan. EAP
References. Mantran 1972, 219-21; Seton-WiLliams and Stocks 1988, 27D
1927-29, 6,
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19, 700: OCCMAA
BCCMAA 1946-53, 334: ARCE]EAP 2C03
402
Sabil-kuttab of Ismail Pasha
AD1244 1AD1828
The site of this building was previously occupied
by a Mamluk funduq. It is one of two sabils built
by Muhammad 'Ali in commemoration of his dead
sons. This example was built for his third son,
Isma'l, who was murdered in the Sudan in AD1822 (for the
other, commemorating Tusun, see no. 401). The fagade shows
a profound Ottoman influence in the design and detailing of
the highly ornate rococco-style marble and metalwork. The
sabil, together with the large school that is attached to it,
was restored by the SCA in 2002-2004, when the large cistern
beneath the building was rediscovered.
sheet
M~ap
19
Plan. None
References Raymond and Wiet 1979, 234 (no 10),and 269 (no. 93)
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19, 791, BCCMAA 1930-32, 12
(400)
(403)
PMan.None
References. Raymond and Wiet 1979, 280 (no, 207); Meinecke and
Meinecke-Berg 1980, 34 n 23; Denoix et al. 1999, 11:23-24
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19. 786, BCCMAA 1927-29,
168-69
151
(404)
407
Shari' al-Khiyamiya
Map sheet This hawd was delisted and destroyed after 1951 inthe
clearance for the Salah Salim highway. It consisted of
10
two arches, with a room behind them, and closely
resembled 'Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda's surviving hawd
inShari' al-Mahgar to the northwest of the Citadel (see no. 260).
sheet
Map
Radwan Bey comprises a rab' with shops below. It is
21
stylistically so similar to the adjacent constructions
of Radwan Bey as to suggest that it was built under
his patronage
405
Sabil-kuttab of I-asan Katkhuda
AH1113 lAD 1701
Plan None
References Pauty 1933b, i (no 33)
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 782: BCCMAA 1930-32, 66
408
Qasaba of Radwan Bey (eastern side,
including the fagade onto Midan Bab Zuwayla)
Map sheet
21
17
References: Pauty 1936, 23; Raymond 1979a, 261-62 (no. 59); SetonWilliams and Stocks 1988, 335
Listing and conservation. BLUMAA 1915-19, 799, 8CCAA 1927-29, 189
(classification)
406
Qasaba of Radwan Bey (western side,
including the favade onto Midan Bab Zuwayla)
Eleventh century AHI Seventeenth century AD
The gasaba of Radwan Bey isCairo's last surviving cov
ered street-once a common typology. Various parts of
the mid-seventeenth-century development are listed
separately (see nos. 365, 407, 408, and 409). The build
ing iscomposed of double-height dwelling units cantilevered over
shops at street level. This particular listing
covers the western
extension of the shop and living units from the main covered street,
and it includes an independent house unit on the northwestern cor
ner. The upper portions of the building were long derelict until a
partial restoration was completed by the SCA in2003.
Plan:
CMP Survey
sheet
Map
21
152
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
BCCMAA
1933-35, 25, 37,
148, 157
(409)
Fagades to the south of the zawiya
of Farag ibn Barquq
Eleventh century Al I Seventeenth century AD
The original listing must refer to the facade of the
block immediately to the south of the sabil and
zawiya of Farag ibn Barquq (no. 203), which was
rebuilt by the ComitS in 1929. This block contains
a separate house unit in its southwestern corner and forms
part of the original development of Radwan Bey (see nos.
406-408). A restored street-covering spans to the western
section of the complex (no, 406). All the units in this northern
block of the Radwan Bey's development are derelict, and the
original facade of the block facing the mosque of al-Mu'ayyad
Shaykh was truncated by the widening of the street in the
early part of the twentieth century.
Plan:CMP Survey / SCAArchive
Map sheet
21
References Panty 1933b, 81 (no. 33); Hanna 1989, 61-67; Hanna 1991,
99-101
410
(414)
AHB23 / AD1420
Mosque of al-Khalawati
411
Wikala and sabil-kuttab
413
Qubba of Shaykh 'Abdallah
Tenth century ANJ Sixteenth century AD
The dome of this small tomb, nestled within a modern mosque, is composed of rendered brick exter
nally, but of stone within, supported on flat muqar
nas squinches. The mihrab is oriented some forty
degrees off the geometry of the tomb itself and is set in one
corner of the space.
Map shet
10
AH1173 / AD1759
Plan SCAArchive
(417)
Tomb of Sangar al-Gamaqdar
AH710 ! AD1310
420
Sabil of Hasan Agha Arzingan
AH1246 fAD1830
original
This sabil was moved by the Comitd from its
emplacement further to the west as part of a road
28
widening project. It now stands in isolation, with a
small garden in front of it. The decorated stone
fagade with wooden eaves has a gentle bow-fronted form with
three cusped arches around the sabil's bronze grilles; a marble
inscription surmounts the central arch.
Map shee
Plan SCAArchive
(421)
Sabil, hawd, and manzil of Kuri 'Abdallah
A 1145 / AD1732-33
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
153
(422)
Wikalat al-Nasharin
Plan' None
426
References, Raymond and VJiet 1979, 241 (no 7) Meinte and MeineckeBerg 1980, 33 and 34 n. 24
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19, 781; BCCMAA 1920-24, 259;
BCCMAA 1927-29, 7, 198; BCCMAA 1946-53, 188, 190
423
Wikalat al-Sanadqiya
AHI 1100 1 AD1688-89
(427)
(424)
BCCMAA
1930-32, 67
425
Wikalat al-Gallaba
Tenth century AH/ Sixteenth century AD
This wikala was famous as the location for the slave
market of Cairo until the nineteenth century It
originally had two courtyards, the second of which
was destroyed by the cutting of Shari' al-Muski.
Little remains of the building except traces of the entry fagade
at ground level and the vaulted entrance portal. The main entry
Map shee
28
154
AH1147 l AD1735
DESCRI PTIVF
CATALOGUE
428
Madrasat al-Kamiliya
Mapshee
AH622 1 AD1225
Most of the site of what was the first two-iwan
Listing and conrservoton. BCCMAA 1894, 56; BCCMAA 1903, 49; BCCIvMAA
1904, 7, 67, B1; BCCMAA 1915-19, 764; BCCMAA 1927-29, 169;
(434)
(429)
Sabil of Salim Agha
Map sheet
11
AH 1166 / AD1753
This small Ottoman sabil, which was demolished in
urban clearance outside the Fatimid walls during
the 1940S, was located immediately outside the
Bab al-Nasr.
Plan. None
References. Raymond 19798, 274 (no. 93)
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1903, 30 [item c); BCCMAA 1915-19,
791, BCCMAA 1930-32, 33
(431)
Mapsheet
References- Raymond and Wiet 1979, 267-68 (no. 75), Meinecke and
(435)
Manzil in the waqf of Ibrahim Effendi Shenan
Twelfth century An / Eighteenth century AD
Map sheet this building was deregistered between 1927 and 1929.
It isa well-preserved example of an Ottoman rab', with
four dwelling-units located over workshops approached
through a doorway framed by decorative stone strapwork.
Plan* CMP Survey
433
References None
1915-19, 779; BCCMAA 1927-29, 197
Listing and conservation BCCMAA
436
Sabil, mosque, and tomb of Shaykh Ramadan
AH1175 / AD1762
alThis complex was originally constructed by 'Abd
Rahman Katkhuda, whose decorative style can be
seen in the two cusped molded arches on the north
ern fagade fronting the tomb chamber. There is no
evidence of the sabil today, and only the base of the minaret
survives.The tomb chamber issurmounted by a plastered dome.
The interior (In2000 had been recently refurbished.
Map sheet
28
P!an:Sameh 1946, 83
(437)
House of Shaykh Sayim
Twelfth century AH/ Eighteenth century AD
This fine courtyard house, known also as the manzi
the
of 'Abd al-Gawad al-Ansari, was demolished in
sheet
1a
clearance for the al-Azhar University campus in the
1950s. A photograph of the courtyard, showing a
well-preserved double-arched maq'ad, is published in Pauty
1933b (pl. xxiva).
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
155
Plan None
1936-40, 110,114
164, 167; BCCMAA
(439)
I-louse and qa'a in the waqf of al-'Abbar
Twelfth century (?)
AR/ Eighteenth century (7)AD
This house, located in the Harat al-Godarlya alKabira, was known also by the name 'al-Sitt
Manwar' In addition to the ga'a mentioned in the
listing, it also contained a maq'ad. The house is now
demolished, and its exact position is uncertain, Its approximate
location is indicated on the map sheet
Mapsheet
20
Plan. None
References: None
Listing and conservation:
BCCMAA 1909, .8-49; BCCMAA
1915-19, 775,
BCC4 1930-32, 27, 122-23, 204; BCCMAA 1925-26, 16, BCCMAA
1911,17, 101: BCCMAA
1920-24, 325
(440)
445
House of Sitt Wasila'
An 1046 / AD1637
Lizine (1972a) notes the existence in this court
yard house of an inscription dating its foundation
to AD 1637-some thirty years prior to its occupa
tion by Sit Wasila'. The house (undergoing
restoration, 2001-2004) has a maq'ad and a large qa'a on the
first floor. Excavations in the courtyard have revealed the pres
ence of a Fatimid period fountain, suggesting an even earlier
period of domestic use. The house stands immediately adjacent
to that of 'Abd al-Rahman al-Ilarrawi (no. 446)
Map sheet
13
Maq'ad of Qaytbay
ca. Al 896 / AD1490
Map sheet This imposing maq'ad was part of a palace, which
also went under the name 'Oaracholi House; locat
23
ed to the west of the madrasa of Sultan Hasan,
close to Shari' Muhammad 'Ali. It was demolished in
1924, after a legal battle that was lost by the Comit . The
Bulletin of 1915-19 reports that Gaytbay's construction incor
porated elements of a more ancient foundation. A photograph
of the maq'ad can be found in the Bulletin of 1920-24 (pl.x).
Plan. None
References: None
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 740-41, 802, BCCMAA
1920-24, 143, 236-38 (declassification), 407
(443)
Parts of the house of Gawhar Agha
Twelfth century AnI Eighteenth century AD
Mapsheet This house, now demolished, was located at no. 7,
30s
IeeHarat Ismall Pasha, Darb al-Gamamiz, Pauty
(1933b) remarks that it was only the stone fagade
of the building that had any architectural interest.
Plan; None
References: Pauty 1933b, 89 [no 52)
Listing and conseraotion. BCCMAA 1915-19, 793
446
House of 'Abd al-Rahman al-Harrawi
AH1144
AD 1731
(447)
Sabil-kuttab of 'Usman 'Abdallah
Roq'et al-Qamh
AH 1125 / AD1713
This sabi was demolished in the clearance that
took place prior to the construction of the al-Azhar
13
University campus. Comit Bulletin reports identify
this as the sabil of 'ithman Bira and state that it
was attached to the buildings of the mosque of al-Azhar. It is
here situated approximately in the street called Roq'et al-Gamh
to the east of the mosque.
-
Plan None
156
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
(453)
96
448
AH 1168 / AD1754
Map shee
Plan Nosne
References. Raymond and W/et 1979,
281 (no 215]
Lishng and conercalrn. SCOMAA
7911,
21, SCCMAA
1915-19, 773
(457)
1louse in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
Plan.Saeth 1946
References Sameh 1946, 69-62: Raymond
1972, 241; Raymond 1979a, 276
(no 96). Ismg and conseration BCCMAA
1915-19, 775; BCCMAA
1930-32, 32; BCAA 1933-35, 389, 393,
BCCMAA
1936-40 , 112
(451)
AH 1172
Plan
f AD 1759
452
None
(458)
Khan Sa'id
AH920-21 / Ad 1515
biashee This monument, which served the spice
trade,
was
20
Plan None
References. Raymond and Wiet 1979, 292
(no 309). Mermcke and
Meineeke-Ber9 1980, 31 ond34n, 11
Lstmny and conservation BCCMAA
1915-19, 783; BCCMAA
1933-35, 7,
14. BCCM4A
1945-53, 93, 95-96
AH1132/ AD1719
Plan. SCAArchive
459
Mosque of 'Ali Abn al-Arabi and house
of Muhammad al-Mahrutqi
AH1196 (AD 1784
Mapsfteed
Muhammad
al-Mahrqi was an
Tmportantmerchant
in eighteenth-century Cairo.
All that remains of
what must have once been an extremely impressive
house isthe entrance portal and mashrabya
above
(a Comte restoration). Tie adjacent mosque
has a beautiful
carved stone fagade with inlaid-tile
panels. Two surviving cor
belsindicate that there was once
another story above the
mosque The interior structure is
columns, supporting two arcades. The based on four antique
qiba arcade still has its
original
a timber dikka
and wooden screen around the shaykhs
tomb.
20
DESCHlPTIVE
CATALOGUE
157
Plan. CIMPSurvey
References. Pauty 1936, 12: Raymond 1967, 91-95
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA1915-19, 776; BCCMAA 1925-26,
30-31
460
Wikalat al-Sharaybi
Twelfth century AH] Eighteenth century AD
Map sheet This wikala's fine fagade is decorated with stone
bosses and carved double-headed axe motifs. The
20
complex was owned by a prominent coffee mer
chant, who also built the adjacent bathhouse (U30)
The courtyard's original arched-stone perimeter appears to
have been added to, with further stone piers and wooden
columns supporting an extended gallery at first-floor level. The
wikala is occupied by a variety of trades, and the first-floor liv
ing units are still inhabited despite the structure's extreme
dilapidation. The wikala was deregistered at some point after
1950, and was re-registered in 1984 in conjunction with the
adjacent bathhouse (U30) below. The prior registration number
is given here in the absence of any new number.
Plan. CMP Survey
References. Scharabi 1976, 163, Raymond and Ilet 1979, 292 (no. 313):
Aulund 1980, 40, Raymond 1995, 58
Listing and conservation- BCCMAA 1915-19, 780; UCCMAA1925-26,
1946-53, 77
30-31, BCCMAA
461
'Sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Effendi Salim
AH1111/ AD 1699
Map sheet
31
Plarn
SCAArchive
462
Mosque of al-Gawhari and fagade
158
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGLE
463
Manzil of al-Sadat al-Wafa'iya
Tenth century AH; AH1010 and 1169 / Sixteenth century AD;
AD1679 and 1755
Map sheet The Wafa'iya family were an important religious
30
(464)
Mosque of Ganem al-Tagir
AH871
/ AD1466
(465)
Mosque of al-Ghamri
AH850 / AD 1446
fagades (hence the multiple listings; see also no. [469] below),
25
(469)
Fagade of the houses next
to the sabil al-Tabtabay
1904,
furniture); BCCMAA 1902, 127-28, BCCMAA 1903, 74, BCCMA.A
42-43 80; BCCMAA 1906, 89, 96; BCCMAA 1908, 51; BCCMAA 1910,
37: BCCMAA 1915-19, 806
References None
Lusting nd coanservotion BCCMAA 1915-19, 798, BCCMAA 1927-29, 189
(declassification), BCCMAA 1930-32, 271
Plan: None
References Behrens-Abouself 1987, 180; Seton-Wiliams and Stocks 1988,
Map shee
466
(470)
Qa'a of al-Dardir
Mapshee
14
Plan. None
References None
Lsting and conservation BCCMAA 1915-19, 782, BCCMAA
1927-29, 193
471
House of Mustafa Ga'far
AH1125 /AD 1713
sheet Mustafa Ga'far was a coffee trader who operated
ap
M1p
from the nearby wikala of Dhulfiqar, or Udah
Basha (see no. 19). The house is arranged around
a courtyard with a large qa'a at ground level; it
was restored in 1998-2000 as part of the Darb al-Asfar
regeneration project.
Plan Maury et al 1983, 222
References. Pauty 1933b, 76 (no. 5), Abdul Tawwab and Raymond 1978,
(468)
AH1047 /AD1637
Map sheet
24
DESCRIPTIVE
C AATALO0GUE
lI
159
476
AH781
/ AD1379
477
Zawiya of Abu'1 Khayr al-Kulaybati
/ AD1021-38
480
(478)
Two tombs in the zawiyat al-Sutuhi
ca. AH700 (?)/ AD1300 [?)
Mapsheet This now-demolished zawiya was located at no. 18,
Darb al-Asfar; the tombs within it were reputedly
built during the time of Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad
(r.ca. AD1294-1340),
Plan None
References. None
Listing and conservaton:BCCMAA 1915-19, 791; BCCMAA 1920-24, 352
479
Fatimid mausoleum
Map sheet
18
AK527 / AD1133
Plan SCAArchive
References. Creswell 1952, 227-28, Seton-Willanns and Stocks 1988, 225:
Sayyld 1998, 257-58
160
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
(481)
Fagade of the mosque of al-Bulqini
AH791 1 AD1389
This mosque, located in the Bayn al-Sayarig to the
east of the mosque of al-Hakim (no. 15), was built
18
during the Bahri Mamluk period for Shaykh 'Umar
bn Raslan al-Bulqini. A modern mosque stands on
the site today, the original building isknown to have possessed
a monumental muqarnas portal.
Map sheet
Plan None
References Meinceke 1992,11:278
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1889, 150, BCCMAA 1915-19, 786
482
Church of the Virgin, Harat Zuwayla
Fourth-twelfth century An / Tenth-eighteenth century AD
Map sheet This ancient complex comprises the Church of the
Virgin Mary with an attached convent, the Church
18
of St. Mercurius, and the Church of St. George. The
former is the oldest of these structures, with a
probable foundation date in the tenth century AD; most of the
visible structures, however, are eighteenth century From the
fourteenth century until 1660, it served as the seat of the
Coptic patriarchate. The church is located some four meters
below present ground level, which is further evidence for the
antiquity of the foundation.The plan of the church isbasilical,
with a narthex and three sanctuaries. The nave is lined with
antique columns, and the roof above it has a wooden barrel
483
Church of the Virgin, Harat al-Rum
Eighth (?)- thirteenth century AH/
Fourteenth (?)- nineteenth century AD
psheet This church, the seat of the Coptic Patriarchate
from AD1660 to 1799, was rebuilt in the nine
13
teenth century. It lies in acomplex of buildings that
includes the Church of St. George and the Convent
of St. Theodore The exact date of the foundation is unknown.
and arches.
Heritage
References Butler 1884, 1278-B3; Behrens-Abousilf 1986, 122-28 (pas
(484)
Favade and door of wikala of al-Uqbi,
or Khan al-Fisqiya
Before An 901 / AD1496
Map sheet The portal of this Qaytbay-period wikala was listed
until 1933. Partially demolished and partially
20
derelict, this building has original doors leading to a
courtyard occupied by intrusive structures. The
favade is obscured by modern shopfronts.
Plan- None
References- Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980, 31and 34 nB
Listing and conseNvation. BCCIAA 1915-19, 781; BCCMAA 1933-35, 7, 14
(485)
AH 1047
AD1637
References: None
Lising and conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19, 784
(486)
House in the waqf of al-Safti
Twelfth century [?) AHf Eighteenth century (?)AD
The location of this building at no. 30, Shari' al
Dardir, may be erroneously given in the Bulletin; a
nineteenth-century apartment block, built over in
concrete, occupies the plot.
pheet
13
Plan: None
References: None
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 783
(487)
Fagades of houses in Shari' al-Dardir
Map sheet This listing was for three house fagades that still
(488)
Seventeenth-eighteenth century AD
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
161
(489)
(493)
Shari Amir al-Guyush (also referred to as Shari' alGhamri). It may also have extended to include the
fagade of the wikala at no- 53, Shari' Amir al-Guyush. Both
buildings, deregistered in the early 1920s, lay immediately to
the west of the mosque of al-Ghamri; they were demolished
after 1951.
Map sheet
25
Plan: None
References. None
Listing and ronserviaton BCCMAA 1915-19, 775
Plan.None
References. None
Listing and conservation:BCCMAA 1915-19, 805: BCCMAA
1920-24, 350
(495)
Manzil in the waqf of Bashir Agha
Twelfth century (?) AH/ Eighteenth century (?)AD
(490)
Favade of the manzil and
hammam al-Margush
AH1194 1 AD1780
Map sheet The hammam al-Margush was another name for the
hammam al-Malatyali (no. 592); this may be the
25
reason that another registration number was given
to the hammam on its own acecount. The manzil or
house referred to in the listing (occupying the upper floor) no
Map sheet
18
References. None
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 786, BCCMAA 1920-24, 352
(496)
longer exists.
Plan:As 592, SCAArchive
References Pauty 1933a, 51-52; Raymond 1969, 135 (no, 40)
Lsting and eonservation. BCCMAA 1915-19, 806; BCCMAA 1930-32, 248
(491)
Favade and portal of the wikala
Map sheet
18
Descriptionde ('gypte)
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1915-19, 805, BCCMAA 1920-24,
349. 351
497
House of 'Ali Effendi Labib
Twelfth century AH/ Eighteenth century AD
This is an Ottoman merchant's house, with a plas
tered fagade adorned by mashrabiya windows. The
16
small door issurrounded by ornate stone moldings.
The interior spaces are grouped around two small
courtyards, densely overhung with mashrabiya, An ornate por
tal approached by steps is located in the first courtyard, while
the second courtyard has an antique column supporting part of
the superstructure The interior was remodeled in the late nine
teenth and early twentieth centuries. In more recent times, the
Map sheet
162
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
References:Pauty 1936, 38; Hevault and Maury 1979, 159-70; Maury et aI.
1983, 242-48
1915-19, 797; BCCMAA 1927-29. 189
Listing and conservation. BCCMFAA
(classification); BCCMAA 1936-40, 206, 208; BCCMAA 1946-53, 182,
185, 205, 348
(498)
Sabil-rab' al-Balflya
499
Hawsh of 'Utay I Wikala of Mubsin Ramadan
Map sheet
AH1233 / AD1817
The only surviving section of this large commercial
Plan. SCA
Archive (partial)
References: Pauty 1936, 35, Mantran 1972, 228-29; Seton-Williams and
Stocks 1988, 224-45; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 283 (no. 239)
1930-32, 12
Listing and conservation: RCCMAA
(500)
Fagade of the house of al-Kashif
Late twelfth century AD/ Late eighteenth century AD
Map sheet The fagade of this house, seen in a photograph pub
lished by Pauty (1933a), was demolished in the late
27
twentieth century. The number 500 was also
assigned by the Comiti to the wikalat alMuhammadayn (later classified as no. 597).
Plan None
(501)
House of Mahmud Sudan
Twelfth century AH I Eighteenth century
AD
Map sheetThis house was located at no. 6, 'Atfat al-Zababqi.
The number 501 was also assigned by the Comit to
8
the wikalat al-Haramayn, which was subsequently
re-registered with the number 598. The house was
deregistered and demolished after 1951.
Plan. None
References. Pauty 1936, 34
Listing and conservation: SCCMAA 1915-19, 806
(502)
Zawiya of Sidi Muhammad al-Sha'rani
Tenth century (?)AH/ Sixteenth century (?)AD
This small zawiya was located at no. 4, arat alSha'rani. The site is presently occupied by another
zawiya, built in the 1930s. A photograph of the ear
lier building (in the Comit6 archive) shows a square
headed portal with heavy muqarnas that places it stylistically
in the early Ottoman period.
Mapsheet
25
Plan. None
References: None
503
Mosque of Muhammad Ai
AH1265 / AD1848
Mlpsheet Although the bulk of this mosque was constructed
between AD1830 and 1848, it was not completed
9
until the reign of Sai'd, Muhammad 'Ali's son, in
1857. The site of the mosque was built up from var
ious demolished structures in the vicinity, including the famous
Ablaq Palace of al-Nasir Muhammad (no. 549). The mosque was
designed by a Greek architect on Ottoman lines, and is clad
with alabaster. The forecourt has an elaborate Ottoman
baroque-style ablutions fountain in its center. To the west,
within the space of the courtyard arcade, and rising above it,
stands an ornate clocktower given to Muhammad 'Ali by Louis
Philippe in 1845. The mosque itself, which is flanked by two
eighty-two-meter-high minarets, has a fifty-two-meter-high
central dome that rests on four massive piers with four semi
domes. The body of Muhammad 'Ali was moved here in 1857
from the family enclosure in the southern cemetery and lies
within the mosque beneath a three-tiered marble cenotaph
behind a bronze grille. The mosque first exhibited signs of
structural cracking in 1899; inadequate repairs led to a more
extensive restoration from 1931 to 1939, which included the
rebuilding of the domes around the courtyard. The domes were
re-covered in 1999, and the minarets cleaned in 2000.
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
163
(504)
House in the waqf of Banush Bey
Twelfth century AHI Eighteenth century AD
Map sheet This large courtyard house was known also as
(506)
Sabil-kuttab of 'Ayesha al-Sutuhiya
Before An 1169 / AD1755
Plan None
References. Sameh 1946, 40; Raymond 1979a, 286 (no 124)
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1906, 22; BCCMAA 191-19, 776;
BCCMAA 1920-24, 355: BCCMAA 1925-26, 16; BCCMAA
1933-35,
141, 144; SCCMAA1936-40, 114 (deregistration), 119 BCCMAA
1946-53, 292
507
Sabil of Kosa Siran
Plan- None
References: Pauty 1933b, 77 (no. 12); Pauty 1936, 37
Listing and conservatonn BCCMAA 1915-19, 806: BCCMAA 1930-32, 46,
BCCMM 1936-40, 97, 102; BCCMAA 1946-53, 53, 182
505
The Gawhara Palace
AH1229 / AD1814
Map sheet This is the second of two palaces built in hybrid
9,3,and 10 Turkish Baroque style by Muhammad Ali on the
Citadel (see also no. 612), which remained in use
until the opening of the Abdin Palace. The
Gawhara (Jewel') Palace actually adjoins the Palace of
Justice, constructed slightly later (in AD1830) to the south
east, Together, the palaces formed the center of Muhammad
'Ali's administration of Egypt, as the Gawhara Palace con
tained the audience hall of Muhammad 'Ali, and the Palace
of Justice housed offices for religious endowments, hospitals,
the Arsenal, and public works, among other functions. The
Gawhara Palace was damaged by fire in 1972 and has been
partly restored by the SCA, although most of the building
[emains closed to the public. One interesting detail that can
be observed on the eastern elevation of the palace facing
the entrance area is a group of six reused carved and
Inscribed octagonal marble columns dating from the period
of Sultan Qaytbay.
Plan: SCAArchive
References: Pauty 1933b, 63-64, 91 (no 58); Wret 1949, 105-27, esp.
124-25; Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 373-74; Lyster 1993, 60,
63, 68, 75, 79, 98-100; Jaubert 1995, 206
164
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALO6UE
510
Qubba of Shaykh Su'ud
AH941 / AD1534
Mapsheet This tomb was built for a shaykh of the Rifa'i order
as an addition to a zawiya; it appears in the waqf
15
of Sulayman Pasha, whose mosque (no. 142) issit
uated in the Citadel. The tomb has a stone base
with original bronze window grilles, and a plastered-brick
dome, originally covered in green tiles (like the domes of the
mosque of Sulayman Pasha).
Plan:SCAArchive
References Behrens-Abouscif and Fernandes 1984, 112; Behrens-Abouseif
(534)
Maq'ad of the Faramangui House
(514)
House of Khusraw Pasha
Map sheet
13
AH1065/ AD1654-55
This was a courtyard house, now demolished, with
at least one large qa'a and a maq'ad. The name of
the owner bears no relation to the sixteenth-cen
tury Ottoman governor of Cairo.
Plan: None
Reference: Pauty 1933b, 80-81 (no 28)
Listing and conservation BCCMAA 1930-32, 145, 164
Plan None
References Pauty 1933b, 86 (no.43), Pauty 1936, 37
Listing and conservation; BCCMAA 1946-53, 58, 60-61
541
(518)
Rab of Qaytbay
ca. Al 896 1 AD1490
This building, shown on the 1924 Map of
Mohammedan Monuments, was located on the
31
Galat al-Kabsh, where Qaytbay also built a mosque
(no 223). It was destroyed prior to 1951. Photo
graphs show that the building, which was a rab' rather than a
'house' (as it isdescribed in the Comit6 Bulletins), was split by
an alley that was cut through its center. This also bisected the
unusual stone inscription band located above the line of cor
bels that supported the first floor of the building. This inscrip
tion band was analogous to those on Qaytbay's wikalas at the
Bab al-Nasr (no.9) and Shan' al-Surugiya (U77).
sheet
Plan None
References VanOcrchen 1894, 1-518-20
Listing and conservation.BCCMA 1893 (2nd ed), 55-56, BCCMAA 1894,
1897, 37 (demolition)
86: SCCA4AA
521
Mosque of Ahmad Bey Kohya
Map sheet
24
AN710 / AD1310
This mosque was converted from a large residential
qa'a belonging to aMamluk palace. The central sec
545
Eleventh century AHI Seventeenth century AD
548
Wikala in the waqf al-Tutungi
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
165
549
Remains of the palace of
al-Nasir Muhammad
AH714 / AD1314
Map sheet The whereabouts of this famous structure, known
550
Two street roofings
Al 909-10 / AD1504-5
roofs, with wind-scoops for ventila
wooden
These
Map sheet
tion and lighting, form part of the bazaar structure
20
integral to the mosque of al-Ghuri (no. 189). All the
shops in the bazaar beneath are modern.
Plan Part of the mosque of al-Ghuri (no 189)
References' Seton-Williams and Stocks 1988, 265; Jaubert 1995, 209
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1930-32, 32
(551)
Bab al-Khala (al-Qarafa)
AN 566-72 [?)
/ AD1171-76 (Q)
Mapsheet This gate was located behind the mosque of al
Azhar on Shari' al-Ghurayib, close to the mosque of
6
Sidi Muhammad al-Ghurayib built by 'Abd alRahman Katkhuda (no, 448). It is indicated on Sheet
39L of the 1:1000 Survey of Egypt's map (surveyed 1912,
revised 1934 and printed in 1935) as 'Bab al-Ghurayib
(Bawwabet al-Khala)' but has since been demolished. AlGabarti identified this gate as the Bab al-Barqiya (no. 614),
through which access was obtained to the northern cemetery
and the Muqattan Hills. It appears under the name 'Bab al
166
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
(552)
Tiles in the mosque of al-Khudayri
All 1181 / AD1767
A new mosque occupies this site, and no trace sur
vives of the Ottoman tiles that warranted its list
ing in the Index of Monuments; these may have
been transferred to the Islamic Museum, although
the site itself is still registered, The original mosque on this
site was built for the Khalawati brotherhood of Sufis; it was
rebuilt in 1863. Pauty (1936), who dates the structure to AD
1774, provides a sketch plan for what must have been this
later rebuilding.
Mapshee
24
Plan' Pauty
1936, 13, fig. 12
References' Pauty 1938, 12, 13; Seton-Wiliiams and Stocks 1988. 352,
Hamamsy 1992. 45-46
553
Sabil-kuttab of
AH1094 / AD1683
This Ottoman sabil-kuttab isattached to the south
eastern corner of a large wikala that is substantial
ly demolished. The bronze grille on the eastern
fagade isoriginal to the sabil; that on the southern
side isnot. The interior has afine marble basin, and the remains
of the original water-supply system survive.
Mao sheet
20
554
Zawiya of Gaf'ar al-Sadiq
AH 1100 /AD1688-89
This zawiya is shown on the 1950 1:5000 Map of
Mohammedan Monuments, but it is not included in
the Index of Monuments. The fagade and interior of
the building are completely new; two original
inscriptions in marble that survive above the door are presum
ably the object of the listing.
Mapsheet
20
Plan: None
References Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg 1980,31 and 34 n. 17
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA
1930-32, 66
BCCMAA 1946-53, 81
555
Bab al-'Azab
Map sheet
Plan SCAArchive
GB,83,
100 BCCMAA
556
Bab al-Mudarrag
All579 / AD1183-84
Map sheet 'The Gate of the Steps' was one of the original
2
Muhammad 'Ali constructed his 'New Gate' (Bab
al-Gedid: U85) immediately to its west. It is the
only separately listed section of the Citadel's walls on the
Index of Monuments. The through route into the northern
enclosure is now obstructed by Muhammad 'Ali's Harim Palace
(558)
Mosque of 'Ayesha al-Sutuhiya
Before AH 1169 /AD1755
IThis
speet
Plo. None
References Sameh 1946, 40; Raymond 1972, 241; Raymond 1979a, 277
(no 98)
559
AH947 / AD1540
Map shee
s8bil of al-Kritliya to which it isjoined (no. 321), is
today part of the Gayer-Anderson Museum. The
house stands on the western side of the alley and is
or the Comite. The edge of the house that abuts the wall of the
the ziyada.
References Revault and Maury 1979, 53-76; Maury et al. 1983, 170-80,
63-64, 68. 70-71, 73-76, 89, 93-94, 96-98, 109, 112-14, 118-22,
557
Sabil of al-Wafa'iya
AH 846 / AD1442
adjacent
sabil,
This
Map sheet
often used in conjunction with the Sadat family (see no. 463),
Archive
Plan. SCA
(erroneously listed under no, 447),
561
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
167
562
Hammam of Inal
AH861 /AD 1456
This bathhouse-originally a double bathhouse (the
female section has been demolished)-is named
after the suitan who developed the site in the
fifteenth century as part of a palace. It is known
also by the name 'al-Baysari' although the evidence suggests
that this was in fact another bathhouse located slightly to the
north. There are two surviving inscriptions an the portal lintel
and one jamb. The dilapidated Ottoman disrobing-room leads
Maphet
19
(566)
Hammam al-Effendi
to a series of domed spaces with sunken tanks for hot and cold
(567)
564
Hammam al-Tanbali
Twelfth century AH/ Eighteenth century AD
Plan: Mostafa
1992, 328
References. Pauty 19330, 49, Raymond 1969, 138 (no 73]; Warner 2002,
60-61
565
Mausoleum of Ahmad Pasha Tahir
AN 1233 / AD1817
Plan: SCAArchive
168
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
Hammam al-'Adawi
Thirteenth century AN/ Nineteenth century AD
This building was demolished at the time of the
remodeling of Midan al-lusayn. A sketch plan by
Pauty survives, and a more accurate drawing of the
central calidarium exists in the SCA Archive, which
Isshown here The bath was presumably named after the
shaykh buried in the mosque of Almahk al-Gukander fnc. 24)
Plan SCA Archive
Mapsheet
12
569
Cistern in the Citadel
AH 712 1 AD1312
586
Tomb of brahim Khalifa Guindian
AH 1062 /AD1642
This tomb was originally constructed by Ibrahim
Agha Mustahfzan for his own burial. It was later
15
dedicated to one of his officers, who died inAD1655,
by which time Ibrahim Agha had already created a
finer mausoleum for himself within the precincts of the nearby
mosque of Aqsunqur (no. 123). The fagade has two bays (over
which a centered inscription extends), in addition to the portal,
which isconsiderably sunk into the ground. The tomb has a sim
pie but very high stone dome set on fine squinches internally. It
isalso remarkable for the fact that its mihrab isoffset by about
thirty degrees to compensate for the difference between the
geometry of the street and qibla orientation. Two marble ceno
taphs lie under the dome, also offset to this angle. The entry cor
ridor also gives access, through some subsidiary rooms, to the
sabil (see no. 238) under the adjacent house (no. 613), both of
which were also built by Ibrahim Agha. The documentary evi
dence cited by Behrens-Abouseif (1994) suggests that the date
of this tomb should be revised from the date given in the Index
of Monuments (AI 1001 / AD1593) to the date given above.
Map sheet
591
Sabil and wikala of Udah Basha
AH1084 / AD1673
Plan CMPSurvey
References J Williams 1969, 457; Raymond 1979A, 255 (no. 41): Raymond
and Wict 1979, 273 (no. 134), Alund 1980, 39
Listing and conservation: SCCMAA 1891, 45, BCCMAA 1897, 83-84
(house); BCCMAA 1915-19, 781; BCCMAA 1930-32, 33; SCA2002,
64-65, 337-48
588
592
590
Mausoleum of Husam al-Din al-Turuntay
AH689 / AD1290
This tomb is the only remnant of a Shafi'i madrasa
(see no. 1186]) built by an amir of Sultan falawun
who was executed by Qalawun's son Khalil shortly
after his father's death. The tomb is hemmed in by
recent construction, and fragments of columns and capitals
from the madrasa lie in the road in front of the building. Within
the tomb chamber is a pool of groundwater, currently two
meters deep. There are two surviving stucco inscription bands
on the inner surface of the dome, a beautiful stucco mihrab
hood, and another painted wood inscription band. One keel
arched stucco niche survives on the western favade.
Mapsheet
27
Hammam al-Malatyali
AH1194
/AD1780
Plan. SCAArchive
References. Pauty 1933a, 51-52, Raymond 1,969. 135 (no, 40), Warner
2002, 51
BCCMAA 1930-32, 248
169
593
Bawd of Ibrahim Agha Mustahfizan
AN 1070 / AD1659
This is another of Ibrahim Aghas many constructions along the Darb al-Ahmar. The watering trough,
attached to the southern end of the Palace of Alnaq
al-Nasiri (see no. 249), has a fine inscription block
in place on the fagade. The building has no roof, and the entire
back wall is missing, which make it difficult to identify.
Mapsheet
S
(598)
Wikala in the waqf al-Haramayn
AH1080 /AD1669
(595)
House in the waqf of Ibrabim Agha
AH 10621 AD1652
Mapsheet
15
596
Hammam al-Sukkariya
Twelfth century AHI Eighteenth century AD
Mapsheet A double bathhouse for men and women, in the
name of Gadi al-Fadil, has stood on this site since
20
the twelfth century AD.The present structure is
probably a later rebuilding. The bathhouse was at
one time in the waqf of Oolnwun; it passed into the hands of
Nafisa al-Bayda, who owned the adjacent wikala (no. 395), in
the late eighteenth century. Only the men's half of the bath
house survives, its entrance located on the Sukkariya. This was
in use until recently, and it conforms to the standard model of
Cairene bathhouse, with a disrobing room and central domed
space, off of which lie the smaller domed tank rooms. The
women's section was accessed from the small alley (known as
the 'Atfat al-Hammam) running to the north of the wikala of
Nafisa al-Bayda.
Plan: Badr and Crecelius, 1995, 139
References. Pauty 1933a, 56: Badr and Crecelius 1995: Raymond 1979a,
284 (no. 118: Sayyld 1998, 324
Listmg and conservation. BCCMAA 1933-35, 65
References Pauty 1936, 33 (as monument no. 501), Scharabi 1b78, 162,
Raymond and Wiel 1979, 286 (no. 258), Alund 1980, 40, Ecole
d'Architecture de Versailles 1987, Denoix et al 1999, 11,63-64
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA 1933-35, 125, 127
604
597
605
The Archives Building
Wikalat al-Muhammadayn
Twelfth century AN I Eighteenth century AN
The fagade, portal, and entry passageway of the
building were classified between 1933 and 1935.
The interior of the wikala is currently occupied by
coal-smelting works and metal-working trades, and
is substantially destroyed. Raymond and Wiet (1979) suggest
that this may be the wikalat al-Khatib mentioned in the
Mapsheet
19
170
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGCUE
613
House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
AH1062 / AD1652
Map sheet This building is shown only on the English version
15
Listing
606
The Mint
1812
AN 1227 /AD
The Mint and Treasury have occupied a site in this
Map she
area of the Citadel since at least the sixteenth cen
2 and 3
tury AD.It was rebuilt in 1709 by the Janissary Corps
of the Ottoman army and remodeled by Muhammad
'Ali in 1812. The building consists of aseries of domed and vault
ed rooms around a rectangular court; it has been heavily propped
up since the earthquake of 1992 and has been under restoration
since 2003. On one side of the court stands a curious oval build
ing in stone, which has lost its roof; its function isunclear.
Map sheet
Plan- SCAArchive
References. Lyster 1993, 44, 47, 61, 101
609
House in the waqf of Mahmud al-Shabsiri
AH1040-45 / AD1630-35
Ma sheet
20
614
Bab al-Barqiya
6apshet
AH566-72 /AD1171-76
The position of the remains of this structure is
Plan. Position from Survey of Egypt 1:500 Cadastral Plan and CMP Survey
References. Creswell 1952, 27-28: Wiet 1961, 13-20, Warner 1999,
290-91: Sayyid 1998, 154-55, 394-97, 418-24, Pradines, Michaudel,
and Monchamp 2002
Listing and conservation. BCCMA 1915-19, 748; BCCMAA 1920-24, 341;
BCCMAA
1941-45, 127, 130, 131,144, 162
612
615
DESCR IP T IV E CA TA LO GU E
171
616
Gate of the Bayt al-Qadi
Thirteenth century AH/ Nineteenth century AD
Unnumbered Monuments
and Unregistered Buildings
The following section of the catalogue principally deals with
unregistered buildings, but also includes monuments that
have been registered subsequent to 1950 but do not follow
the sequence of the earlier published index. References and
conservation histories are includcd here only to the extent
that such documentation is known. The dating of many of
the buildings should be regarded as provisional.
617
Wall of the Qaramidan
AH712 / AD1312
Ul
Wikalat al-Shishini
The wikalat al-Shishini isa late seventeenth
century ADwikala built
for coffee merchants. It is
more commonly known as the wikala of Sulayman
Agha, after the 'Controller of Armies' for Muhammad 'AIL
Sulayman Agha probably purchased the property in the nine
teenth century, along with other buildings in the area; his
eponymous mosque (no. 382) is located to the east (map sheet
18). The entire ground floor of the vikala is in a good state of
preservation.
11
U2
Tomb of Khalil Ibrahim Shurbagi
Map sheet Twelfth century AH/ Eighteenth century AD
11l
This small tomb with a ribbed plastered-brick dome
is attached to a modern mosque of the same name
Plan: SCAArchive
References Meinecke 1992, 11.112
Lising and conservation.SCCMAA
1941-45, 209, 261
619
House in the waqf of Ibrahim Agha
AH1062 / AD1652
wedged between the mosques of
house,
Map sheet This
Aqsunqur (no. 123) and Khayrbak (no. 24B), is one
15
of the many developments of Ibrahim Agha along
the Darb al-Ahmar. The qa'a at first-floor level was
recently destroyed. A project to restore the house was initiated
by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in 2000.
Plan Hanna 1991, 89
References. Raymond 1979b, 121-23, Hanna 1991, 87-89
Listing and conservation.BCCMA4 1936-40, 224, 225, 266, 341, 343-45;
BCCMAA 1941-45, 18, 280,367
172
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
Mapashreet
U3
House of al-Khorazati
AH1299 [AD1881
This two-story house lies between the house of alSihaymi (no. 339), and the house of Mustafa Gafar
(no. 471). It is possible that it once formed part of
asingle large domicile with the above two houses, with a date
far earlier than its superficial appearance would suggest. The
house, owned by the SCA, was renovated in 2000.
Map sneet
18
U4
Hammam al-Gamaliya
Before AH1152 AD1739
Map sheet
18
U9
Plan SCAArchive
References: Pauty 1933a, 52; Meinecke and Meinecke-BeQ 1980, 33
U5
Wikalat al-Mulla al-Kabira
Before AH1112 / AD1700
Mapsheet This wikala. known today as the wikala of Zaynab
Khatun, was used by coffee merchants. The building
istotally derelict, but the structure around the cen
tral courtyard isstill clearly visible at ground level,
Plan CMIPSurvey
References. Raymond and Wiet 1979, 284 (no. 241)
U6
U10
Mosque of al-Shuhada
Bab al-Tawfiq
AH480/ AD1087
U7
House of al-Agam
AH1288 /AD1871
Map sheet
5
Mapsheet
18
U8
Bab al-Qantara
AN480 /AD 1087
Ull
Tower no. 17
building his own fortifications around the city in 1176. The French
Expedition may have converted it to accommodate cannons in 1796.
The tower isfaced today in rough stonework with some dressed
stone elements. It was given the number 17 in 1902 during the sur
vey of the Ayyubid wall by the Austrian architect Edouard Matasek.
Pan CMP Survey
D ESC R IPTIVE
CATALOG U E
173
U12
12
U13
Sabil-kuttab of Ahmad Pasha
AH1281
f AD1864
U16
Hammam al-Nahhasin
Before AH1215 / AD1800
This bathhouse, often referred to as the 'hammam of
Galawun' on account of its proximity to the complex of
that name, was still functioning until 2002; groundwa
ter and sewage seepage necessitated its closure. It is
known also historically as the hammam al-Bayatira or the hammam
al-Saga. Abathhouse has existed on this site since the Fatimid peri
od, although the present structure is probably Ottoman in date. It
was registered as a monument in 1999 but has no number.
Map sheet
19
Mapsheet
12
U14
Wikalat al-Gulshaniya
Before AH1215 / AD1800
Map sheet A wikala has stood on this site since AD1554, but the
present structure may be a later rebuilding. The wikala,
19
with asabil-kuttab, is located immediately to the north
of the qaa of Muhib al-Din al Muwaqqi (no. 50). Its
current use is domestic, which may account for its good state of
preservation; both the ground floor and the first floorsurvive intact.
Plan. CMP Survey
References' naymond 1979a, 290 (no.60), Meinecke and Meinecke-Berg
1980, 33, Denoix et al. 1999, 1123-24
U15
Wikalat 'Ai al-Gazal
Before AH1160 / AD1747
Raymond and Wiet (1979) suggest that this unusu
ally named wikala ('Eyes of the Gazelle') may have
been associated with a military officer called Yusuf
ibn 'Ain al-Gazal, active in the mid-seventeenth
century The wikala is tiny but well preserved. Its courtyard,
Mapesheet
19
174
DESCRIPTIVE
CATAl
GF
U17
Wikalat al-'Asal
U18
Synagogue of Ha'ir Capusi
Ca.AH1009-1349 / AD1600-1930
The famous rabbi and Kabbalist Haim Capusi (AD
1540-1131) arrived in Cairo from the Maghreb
before 1600. He is buried in Basatin. His complex in
the old Jewish Quarter of the city comprises an
entrance court, subsidiary rooms, a backyard, and the main
building. The synagogue seems to have been renovated in 1883
and most recently in the 1930s. Its plan combines both axial
and centralized geometries. The lavishly decorated marble
Torah Ark and pulpit are located on the cross-axis of the build
ing, with a dome raised on four columns between them. The
women's gallery and stair leading to it are intact, The building
was registered as a monument in 1987 but has no number.
Plan-ARCEEAP 1995,13
Map sheet
19
U19
Wikala of 'Umar ibn Trak
Eleventh-thirteenth century (?)AHI
Seventeenth-nineteenth century (2)AD
Map sheet
19
given byvlocal
informants.
Plan. SCAArchive
U20
House entrance, no. 22,
U21
Synagogue of Maimonides
Sixth-fourteenth century AH/ Twelfth-twentieth century AD
Map sheet Moses Maimonides, the famous Jewish doctor and
rabbi, settled in Cairo in AD1165 and was buried in
26
this synagogue upon his death in 1204. His body was
subsequently moved to Tiberias in Palestine. The syn
agogue itself has been rebuilt over the centuries; the last recon
struction, commemorating the 800th anniversary of Maimonides'
birth, likely dates to 1935 The complex comprises an entrance
court with an inscribed portal, subsidiary rooms, and a square
hall at a much lower level to the southeast, the latter (heavily
rebuilt) are what remains of the original synagogue the Ramban
Yeshiva. The main building isroofless; a wooden Torah Ark isset
on the eastern wall, and a raised marble pulpit at its center. The
women's gallery to the west is missing. The building was regis
tered as a monument in 1986. but it has no number.
Plan ARCEJEAP
1996, 12
References:Cassuto 1989, 4-13, ARCEIEAP 1996
U22
Karaite Synagogue
Thirteenth century AH / Nineteenth century AD
Mapsheet This synagogue is a simple, square stone building
with a marble inscription in Hebrew mounted above
26
the entrance. There is a first-floor women's gallery
on the western wall, which appears to have lost any
means of access it once had The ceiling has a large, wooden
elliptical starburst motif with a lantern at its center. The Torah
U23
Church of the Holy Order of St. Francis
An 1271 / An1854
This large church in classical style is the third
Mshee
church of the Franciscan Order to stand on this site,
28
part of which was occupied since the sixteenth cen
tury by the Venetian Embassy in Cairo. Saint Francis
visited Egypt inAD1219 and met with the Ayyubid sultan Malik
al-l(amil. Small Franciscan groups lived in Egypt for the next
four hundred years, but it was not until 1630 that the first pre
fect of the order arrived in Cairo and took up residence in the
Venetian Embassy. Attached to the present building is a large
annex built in 1932 that houses the friary and the Bibliotheque
du Centre Franciscain d'tudes Orientales Chrdtiennes.
Plra Bibliothirque do Centre Franciscain d'Itudes Orientals Chrftiennes
References Van Zeelst 1991, 1121-24
U24
Portal of the wikalat al-Mihmandariya
Eleventh century (?)AHI Seventeenth century (?)AD
wikala
Mapsheet The entrance portal of this typical Ottoman
survives intact, and traces of the arched stone units
surrounding the courtyard can still be discerned
among later accretive structures.
Plan, CMP Survey
References. Raymond and Wiet
11.56-57
U25
Structure adjacent to Ayyubid wall
Thirteenth century (2)AN/ Nineteenth century (2)AD
sheet During the course of excavation of the Ayyubid
Ma
wall (see no. 307) in this area, an unidentified,
windowless stone structure was revealed at a
much higher stratum than the wall itself. This
takes the form of a vaulted room flanked by four other vault
ed rooms, two on each side. The level of the foundation sug
gests that it may have been constructed during the nine
teenth century, perhaps as part of the cemetery of alGhurayib in this area, although the orientation of the build
ing is not that of a tomb. It is included here principally to dis
tinguish it from the adjacent wall, from which it is complete
ly separate in time and space.
Plan CMP Survey
References Warner 1999, 295-96
175
U26
Minaret and portal to the
madrasat al-Ghanamiya
Twelfth century (7)AMI Eighteenth century (?)AD
The
minaret and portal to the madrasat alGhanamiya (no. 96) still stand on the adjacent street.
References Creswell 1919, 113-14; Pauty 1933b, 46, 80 (no. 23); SetonWillams and Stocks 1988, 265; Meinecke 1992, 11:253
Listing and conservation: Hero1914 [1882-1910], 61; BCCMAA
1915-19,
89, 110-14, 511,518, 546, 554, 583, 695, 773, 778: BCCAIAA
1920-24,
339, 360; BCCMAA 1930-32, 144, 163
U27
Takiya of Abu'l Dbahab
Ca.AH1318 / AD1900
Mapsheet
13
containing the ablutions area for the mosque) that have fine
wooden balustrades and a wooden inner structure that extends
up to three stories. The building iscurrently unoccupied.
U30
Hammam al-Sharaybi
Twelfth century AH/ Eighteenth century AD
This bathhouse was entirely reconstructed after its
demolition inthe 1970s but isnow permanently shut.
It was subsequently registered as a monument in
1985, in conjunction with the wikala of al-Sharaybi
(no. 460), but without a number.
Map sheet
20
U31
Zawiyat al-Harisi
Twelfth century (?)AH( Eighteenth century (?)AD
This small Ottoman zowiya has an extremely ornate
fagade with decorative stone strapwork.
Map sheet
20
U28
U32
Ottoman mnaq'ad
U29
Mosque of Ahmad al-Dardir
Ca.AH 1200/ AD 1785
176
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
U33
Wikalat al-Sayf
U34'
Cathedral of St. Nicholas
Mlapshee
AH 1306 f AD1888
This eathedral-church of the Greek Orthodox faith is
U35
Hammam al-Gabali
Map sheet
20
U38
Hammam Darb al-Ahmar
Twelfth century (2)AHI Eighteenth century [?) An
M s
Mapsheet
14
This is a typical Ottoman bathhouse with a doglegged entrance, a columned disrobing space,
and domed hot room with smaller ancillary
chambers. It is still in use. The structure may be
considerably older than the given date, as a bathhouse is
known to have existed in this location since the early four
teenth century, under the name 'Aydaghmish which was
also the name given to a postern gate (now lost) in the nearby
Fatimid wall.
Pion: Courtesy Dr Atef Fahimn
References: Pauty 19333, 57; Seton-Watson 2000. 57
U39
Wikala of Yusuf Agha Dar al-Sa'ada
AH1088 / AD1877
shet
Map
U36
Sabil of Umm Husayn Bey
ca. AH1267 / AD1851
This is the sabil of a wife of Muhammad 'All called
Unm Husayn Bey. It was moved by the Comite from
27
its original emplacement further south on the Khalig
al-Masri opposite the mosque of 'Abd al-Chani alFakhri (no- 184), which was restored by the same patron in the
1840s The sabil now stands on the western side of the mosque
of Gadi Yayha (no, 182). It has an elaborate bow-fronted fagade,
overhung by painted wood eaves, with marble inscriptions and
bronze grilles on the sabil windows. Although the sabil was reg
istered in the last years of the Comit6, it never received a number.
Plan. SCAArchive
References. Pauty 1935, 26 n. I
Lrsting andconservaton: BCCMAA 1933-35, 333; BCCMAA 1946-53, 233,
240, 31B
U37
Tomb of Fatma al-Nabawiya
Map sheet
14
Ca.AH1267 1 AD1850
This tomb is the most important shrine inthis quarter of Cairo, containing the remains of a female
member of the Prophet's family. It is likely that a
tomb has stood on this site since Fatimid times, but
U40
AH1284 / AD1868
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOU E
177
U41
Zawiya of 'All al-Maghrabi
AN1282 (?)IAD 1866 (?)
Map sheet This unregistered zawiya shares stylistic character
istics with the almost adjacent zawlya of Arif Pasha
14
(040). It consists of a simple prayer space with a
store mihrab, the roof of which is supported by a
single marble column. This is flanked to the north and south by
tomb chambers; the southern chamber contains the tomb of
the individual after whom the mosque is named.
U45
Maq'ad to the east of the Bab Zuwayla
Twelfth century (?) ANf Eighteenth century (?)AD
U42
Hammam al-Qirabiya
Twelfth century C?)AM/ Eighteenth century (R)AD
the
Mip sheet This bathhouse has two entrances: one opposite
zawiya of 'Al Negm (no. 208) and the other from
21
the parallel alley to the south. This disrobing room
and the main rooms of the bath are no longer con
nected, but the structure is still intact. The disrobing room has
fine marble columns and a wooden lantern, and is occupied by
a carpentry workshop. The rest of the bathhouse, with multiple
domes, is a leather goods workshop,
AN1321 / AD 1903
U43
House of Hanafi al-Bayda,
Mapsheet
21
U46
Islamic Museum
U47
Mosque of Ragab Agha
Ca. AH1267 / AD1850
U44
U48
House, no. 5, Shari' al-Qirabiya
Map she
21
178
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOVUE
C A TA LOG UE
UJ49
Maq'ad, no. 14, Shari' al-Ganibakiya
Twelfth century (?)AH/ Eighteenth century (?)AD
Map sheet
21
U50
U51
The Citadel: Wall of the Northern Enclosure
AH579-1242 / AD1183-1826
The majority of the walls, towers, and gates that
are shown on the accompanying map sheets (with
1,2,e
the exception of Towers 6, H,J,K,I, and M)were
originally built by Salah al-Din and subsequently
reinforced by his brother al-Adil or his nephew al-Kamil. They
there isno question that the walls surrounding both the north
ern and southern enclosures of the Citadel are registered antiq
uities, they appear to have never been separately indexed with
Sheet 1:
unmodified
B: Burg al-Ramla ('the Sand Tower'): a small round-fronted
tower built by Salah al-Din and extended by al-Adil or alKamil.
C Burg al-Haddad ('the Blacksmith's Tower)- a small round
fronted tower built by Salah al-Din and extended by al-Adil
or al-Karnil.
DFSCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
179
U52
Tomb of Shaykh Ibrahim al-Giza
Eleventh century (?)AH/ Seventeenth century (?)AD
ap sheet
Map
This isa simple tomb with a stone base and a plastered-brick dome, located under the walls of the
U53
Tomb of Shaykh 'Uthman al-Fathi
Eleventh century (?)AH I Seventeenth century (?)AD
Map sheet This simple tomb, named on the Survey of Egypt
1:500 Cadastral Plan and the 1950 Map of
1
Mohammedan Monuments, is slightly smaller than
its neighbor (U52), but shares the same north
south orientation and construction: namely, a stone base, dec
orative stone squinches, and a plastered-brick dome. It also has
a flat, decorated stone mihrab.
Plan. CMP Survey
U54
The Citadel: Army Barracks
ca. At 1244 1 AD1828
U55
Tomb of al-Marghani
Thirteenth century AHI Nineteenth century AD
Map sheet This is a simple stone-domed tomb within a court
Plan CMPSurvey
Listmng
and conservation BCCMAA
1898, 24 iclassiication of eastern gate
of takiya)
U56
to the north.
lan CMP Survey
180
DESCRIPTIVE
CATAIOVUE
C A T ALOGUF
U57
U61
U58
Zawiya and tomb of Shaykh 'Abdallah al-Baz
Eleventh century (2)AHI Seventeenth century (?)AD
Map sheet To the north of the Palace of Alnq al-Nasiri (no.
249) and the east of the moscue of Khayrbak (no
andsh
248 lay the khanqah and tomb of Shaykh 'Abdallah
al-Baz, possibly dating to the seventeenth century.
All that remains of the complex is the zawrya attached to the
side of the palace and the shaykh's freestanding octagonal
tomb, which was restored by the Comite between 1941 and
1945. The zawiya has a double groin-vault in stone and a
mihrab that is radically skewed to achieve an improved qibla
orientation. It is approached from a ruined vaulted space to the
west, the entrance of which (now blocked) lies between the cor
ners of the two adjacent monuments. The door is under a series
of three remarkable relieving arches that support a passageway
from the tomb of Khayrbak to the Palace of Alnaq.
Plan: Revault and Maury 1977, B7.and CMP Survey
References; Revault and Maury 1977, 62 n. 5
Conservaton. BCCMAA 1941-45, 52, 151,240
Rab' al-Tabbana
AH921-22
AD 1516
Although this building gives its name to this seetion of the Darb al-Ahmar, and is an extremely
15
important and early example of the rab' typology in
Cairo, it remains unregistered. Some units of the
rab' are still intact, while others have been blocked up and still
others demolished and rebuilt in concrete. Most of the building
itself, which originally had fourteen bays with ground-floor and
upper-floor apartments, and a stone vaulted passage leading to
the rear, are still clearly visible
Map sheet
U62
New mosque of Qawsun
All 1311/ AD 1893
1Iwithin
This mosque was built by Khedive 'Abbas
sMapheet
the
respecting
202),
(no.
Qawsun
of
mosque
old
the
22
new alignment of Shari' Muhammad 'Ali. There is a
connection (disused) to the back door of the origi
nal mosque. The qibla wall of the mosque is also built on the
older structure.
Plan SCAArchive
References Hamamsy 1992, 55-56; seealso Karim 2002 passim
U63
U59
House of 'Umar Agha
AH1063 ) AD 1652
Plan:Harna 1991, 97
Refercences:Hanna 1991, 95-97
Conservation, BCCMAA 1941-45, 15 (faqade repaired)
U60
AH1290 / AD1873
U64
House, no. 15, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
AH1334 / AD1915
This building was originally designed as a fourMap sheet
demol
15 and 22 story apartment block. The top story was
ished after the 1992 earthquake. It has a stuccoed
favade and balconies with wrought-iron railings
Plan. Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 32
References. Kunzel and Abdou 1997, 32
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
181
U65
U69
An1280 / AD1863
Map sheet Mustafa Fadil Pasha was the younger half-brother
U66
House, no. 12, Harat Ahmad Pasha Yaken
Map sheet
22
U67
Mapsheet
22
AH1346 / AD1927
This apartment block, with two units per floor, was
originally designed with four stories the top story
has now been demolished. Notewcrthy features
include balcones with enclosed wooden screens
References Kounzel
U68
Sabil of Ulfat Qadin
AH1280 /AD1863
Map sheet This is a typical Ottoman-style bow-fronted sabil,
built by the mother of Mustafa Fadil Pasha (see
29
U69), the brother of Khedive Ismail, on the site of
182
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
U70
Mosque of 'Al al-Tarrabi
Eleventh century (2)AM/ Seventeenth century (?)AD
Three sides of the stone perimeter wall of this
large enclosure mosque survive, together with a
simple stone mihrab (of unknown date), whose on
Mapsheet
U71
Well, quarry, and ancillary structures
AH572-89 (?)/ AD1176-93 (?)
At the foot of the Citadel inthis area lie a number
of enigmatic remains that are here grouped under
a single reference number. First of these is a stone
quarry, which lends its name ['al-Mahgar') to the
entire adjacent area, it may have been one source of the stone
used inthe construction of the Citadel during the Ayyubid peri
od To the west of the quarry are the ruins of a substantial
stone structure (named 'Saba Salatin' on the 1950 Map of
Mohammedan Monuments) with stone barrel vaults (not sur
veyed) On the eastern edge of the quarry rises a vast elongat
edstone tower The walls of this tower enclose, at their west
ern end, a forty-five-meter-deep rock-cut shaft, which almost
certainly was designed as a well for the use of the Citadel dur
ing the Ayyubid period, with a waterwheel at its top (named
the 'sakyeh sysaryeh' on the Description de figypte map [ot
Moderne 1,pl. 26]) This would account for the height of the
Map shee
1
building, the top of which ison a level with the bottom of the
Citadel walls. Behind the well-shaft at the higher level is a
stone chamber with a pointed-arch vault, very similar to other
Ayyubid military constructions. Immediately below the Burg alis a curving section of a brick barrel-vault on
Sahra (UslE1)
stone walls with some visible arrow slits, which may be part of
a postern gate outside this tower (see 1151T). This structure is
also visible on the Description map.
Plan* Survey of Egypt 1,500 Cadastral Planand CMP Survey
fReferences Creswell 1959, 26
U72
Bayt al-Gazia
map sheet This house, known locally as Bayt al-Gazia, has pre
served its first-floor maq'ad and a qa'a. The maqad
1s
retains a fine marble column (perhaps reused) deco
rated with a fleur de uIsand inscribed with the name
of an 'Amir Mustafa', the rest of the inscription isobscured. The
qa'a contains some fine examples of decorative mashrabiya.
Access to the courtyard isfrom an arched stone gate. Much of
the street elevation has vanished in a recent masonry collapse.
Plan* CMP Survey
U73
House, no. 24, Harat Salim Pasha
Twelfth century (?)AUj Eighteenth century (?)AD
Mapsheet The portal, modified entrance passage, and maq'ad
of this Ottoman courtyard house survive; the
15
maq'ad has been converted into living units and is
inaccessible.
Plcan:CMP Survey
U74
Wikala of Mustafa Sinan
U76
Wikala, no. 4, Suq al-Silah
Eleventh century (7)An I Seventeenth century (?)AD
units of this Ottoman wrkala, located
Map sheet Ten shoppuiso
immediately to the north of the gate of Mangak
15
U77
Wikala of Qaytbay al-Surugiya
Before AH902 / AD1496
and Wiet (1979) list this wRkala under the
Raymond
Malpsheet
name used in the Description de l'gypte: wikalat
22
al-Farrain' All that survives today is the vaulted
entrance passage, above which is a fragment of the
original inscription band, naming al-Ashraf Gaytbay as the
founder. Photographs commissioned by the Comiti (and pub
lished in the 1893 Bulletin) show that the wikala had an
unusual inscription band similar to that found on Qaytbay's
wikala at Bab al-Nasr (no. 9) mounted above corbel level. This
was demounted and taken to the Islamic Museum prior to the
destruction of much of the remainder of the building.
Plan: CMP Survey (portal areaonly)
1894, 1.500-504; Raymond and Wiet 1979, 242
References:Van Berechen
(no. 9) and 289 (no. 90), Behrens-Abouseif 1998, 40 and n 61
Listing and conservation: BCCMAA 1893 (2nd ed), 33-34, 86-87; BCCMAA 1894, 1
AN1040 / AD1630
U78
15
U75
Hammam al-Dud
ca.
Map
Mapsheet-Dna-u
since 1259 when the amir Sayf al-Din al-Dud al-l
22
Gashankin made the initial foundation, although
the present structure was undoubtedly remodeled
during the Ottoman period. Indeed, the elaborately carved
square-headed entrance that stands on Shari' Muhammad 'Ali,
is stylistically of the nineteenth century, a result, perhaps, of
the need to create a new entrance on that boulevard once it
had been cut through the fabric of the medieval city.
Plan.AfterDr A Fahim
References. Pauty 1933a, 58 (no,31); Haynond 1969, 133; Raymond 1978,
349 [no. 8); Behrens-Abouseif 1998, 37 and n, 35, Sayyid 1998, 502
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
183
U79
Wikalat al-Khalawati
Before AH1110 /AD 1698
Plan:CMP Survey
References: Raymond and Wiet 1979, 274 (no. 141)
U82
Archaeological Garden and Theater
ca. AH 1416 ( AD1995
Map sheet This modern landscape extends over an area of the
1 and 2 Citadel that was densely inhabited from the time of
Salah al-D1in to that of Muhammad 'Ali. Afragment
of what lies beneath can be seen between the Burg
al-Kirkilyan and the Burg al-Turfa (U51P and U51R, respective
ly). An ancient basin isalso preserved in a pit within the mod
ern theater at its northern end. The archaeological garden also
contains fragments of destroyed Cairene buildings, including
the minaret of the mosque of Oaqmaq (see no, [317]).
Plan. SCAArchive
U80
Tomb of Muhammad al-Ka'aki
Tenth century AN/ Sixteenth century AD
This small tomb near the mosque of Sulayman
Mapshee
Pasha (no. 142) is that of an imam of the mosque;
2
it is the last remnant of an Ottoman cemetery that
occupied this site until Muhammad 'All built his
nearby palace (no. 612].
Plan: SCAArchive
References. Lyster 1993, 80. 106; Rabbat 1995, 40
U81
U83
Diwan of Schools
ca. AH 1246 / AD1830
Map sheet
U84
Fourteenth-nineteenth century AD
Mamluk kitchens
Eighth and thirteenth centuries AHI
U85
Bab al-Gedid
All 1242 / AD1826
This gate, which resembles a tunnel made up of a
series of vaulted chambers flanked by guard rooms,
was constructed by Muhammad 'All as the main
entrance to the Citadel coming from the Darb alAhmar. This approach is not in use today.
Map sheet
184
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
U86
U89
Burg al-Rafraf
All 1246-1300
/ AD1830-82
U87
Burg al-Siba'
AH659-76 / AD1260-77
Located under a corner of the School of Artillery
(see U86) are the remains of the Burg al-Siba' ('the
Tower of the Lions'), known also as Burg al-Zawiya.
This was built by the Manluk sultan al-Zahir
Baybars, and heraldic lions (his characteristic device) can be
seen on the uppermost part of the tower-the only section that
is visible today. The remainder of the structure is buried in the
fill of the artillery platform that Muhammad 'All created here.
AH689-714 / AD1290-1314
This tower, the name of which means 'canopy: was
constructed by Sultan al-Ashraf Khalil in AD
1290-93. It is so named because when it was orig
inally built it provided the base for a domed pavil
on. Al-Nasir Muhammad later added an enclosed staircase to
the west of al-Ashraf's tower in order to provide access to the
lower enclosure of the Citadel One interesting feature of the
earlier construction is the pair of large stone corbels projecting
from it at high level, the design of which resembles those on
the faqade that was added to the Double-Cross Hall (see U91).
That the corbels on the earlier section of the Burg al-Rafraf and
on the fagade of the Double-Cross Hall are built on the same
planimetric-though not vertical-alignment suggests that they
were constructed at the same time, and that they date to
between 1290 and 1314.
Plan:SCA
Archive
Lyster 1993, 85, 94; Rabbat 1995, 24-26,
References:Meinecke 1992, 11-75;
154-56
Map sheet
U88
Qa'at al-Ashrafiya
AH692 / AD1292
On the northern side of the artillery platform of
Muhammad 'All (see U86), excavations in 1985
M
revealed the remains of a large Mamluk qa'a with
a fountain in its center. This has been identified by
Rabbat (1995) on the basis of surviving epigraphy as the ga'at
al-Ashrafiya built by Sultan al-Ashraf Khalil, rather than the
Qasr Ablaq (see no. 549) built by Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad.
Another partial excavation in the center of the platform also
revealed further Mamluk structures in this area, tentatively
identified by Rabbat as the back of al-Nasir Muhammad's
Iwan al-Kabir.
Plon: SCA Archive
sheet
U90
House of Hasan Pasha Rashid
ca. AH1339 / AD1920
This house was designed by Achille Patricolo, the
head of the Comitfs Technical Section for many
years, as part of a larger project to redesign the
entire street in a traditional style after the road had
been widened following the completion of the Rifa'i mosque.
The client, Hasan Pasha Rashid, was an army general. The house
has a fine stone Fagade and mashrabiya inthe neo-lslamic style.
Mip sheet
15 and 16
U91
The Double-Cross Hall
AH689-714 (?)/ AD1290-1314 (7)
p sheet In the lower enclosure of the Citadel, below the
mosque of Muhammad 'Ali, are the remains of a
vast Mamluk-penod structure of uncertain date.
The oldest element of this complex is the enormous
vaulted hall, which takes the form of a double-cross, from
which a mysterious seventeen-meter-long tunnel leads north.
Blocking the original openings inthe vaults on the western side
is a secondary tunnel-vaulted structure, which supports five
gigantic corbels, of similar design to the pair on the original
Burg al-Rafraf (U89). This would suggest that the hall itself can
be dated to as early as AD1290, and the second phase to
between AD1290 and 1314, Rabbat (1995) tentativclv suggests
that the corbels were part of a structure built by the amir
Yalbugha al-Nasiri, named the Harraqa, or 'Firing' Pavilion.
Plan SCAArchive and CMP Suvey
References Cresweil 1959, 263, Rabbat 1995, 26-28, 206
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
185
U92
The Arsenal
ca. AH1236 1 AD1820
Map sheet An ancient route runs through the lower enclosure
of the Citadel running from the Bab al-Azab (see no.
555, map sheet 16) to the upper enclosure, occa
sionally cut directly out of the bedrock. This was the
site of the famous massacre of the Mamluks in AD1811 by
Muhammad 'Ali. On each side of this route, Muhammad 'Ali
constructed a multitude of warehouses for his army. Many of
these arcaded structures, which originally had wind scoops
(mdqf) on their roofs rather than skylights, survive in a state
of dereliction. There is little surviving evidence that this was in
fact a major center for the industrial production of armaments
including cannon and firearms, although the area is frequently
given the name Topkhane, or 'cannon foundries: Also located
among these buildings are two tombs (see I93 and US4).
Plan. SCAArchive and CMP Survey
References Lyster 1993, 61, 91, and 94; Jaubert 1996, 208-9
U93
Inner Gate
U96
Corbeled fagade
Twelfth century AHI Eighteenth century AD
This corbeled facade, which is reminiscent of a
wikala, would appear to predate Muhammad 'Alis
general remodeling of the lower enclosure of the
Citadel It is datable stylistically to the late seven
teenth or eighteenth century, when this area was still occupied
by the 'Azaban corps of Janissaries.
Map shee
U97
Well of the Hawsh
Map sheet
Plan- SCAArchive
U94
Qubbat al-Biraqdar
Late eleventh century AHI Late seventeenth century AD
This domed tomb is obviously a relic of the earlier
occupation of the lower enclosure of the Citadel:
the ornate stone muqarnas pendentives that sup
port the dome are now at ground level. The design
of these pendentives is of an archaic pattern, similar in execu
tion to the dome of the mausoleum of Shaykh al-Tahaw (mon
ument number 383 [AH1098 / AD1687]) The dome of alBiraqdar is also a curiosity since it has a stone inner shell but
a plastered-brick outer covering. The tomb's name is taken from
the Survey of Egypt Cadastral Plan.
AN712 / AD1312
well is surrounded by a modern
this
Although
Mapsheet
superstructure, the 1896 Map of the Citadel by
9
Colonel Green shows it connected by a subter
ranean rock-cut tunnel to the cistern of al-Nasr
Muhammad (no. 569) and the last pumping station of the
aqueduct (no. 369). The route of this tunnel is shown dotted,
extending to map sheet 10.
Plan CMP Survey
U98
Map sheet
Plan: SCAArchive
References: Behrens-Abouseif 1994, 264-66, pL.54 (for comparison with
Sheykh al-Tahawl)
186
DESCRI PTIVE
CATALOVU
C AT ALOG U E
U99
U103
AH1286-1330 / AD1869-1911
Map sheetThe construction of this mosque started inAD1889
on the initiative of Princess Khushyar, the mother
16
of Khedive [small, and to the design of Husayn
Pasha Fahmy, an architect and the Minister of
Endowments, It was completed by Max lerz, chief architect of
the Comite in 1911. The style of the mosque can best be
described as hybrid neo-Mamluk. In addition to the tombs of
Shaykh 'All Abu Shibbak al-Rifa'i (for whom the monument was
ostensibly built) and Shaykh 'Abdallah al-Ansari, the building
contains many royal tombs of the nineteenth and twentieth
centuries. The mosque was registered as a monument in 1994
but has no number
Plan CMPSurvey
U100
Palace of Muhammad 'Ali
remains unclear.
Po,i
U101
U104
Tomb of Mustafa Kamil
Burg al-Zawiya
Eighth century (2)Al / Fourteenth century (?)AD
it as
Map sheet The large-scale masonry of this tower identifies
a relic of an earlier age, sitting amid the warehous
es constructed by Muhammad 'Ali in the lower
enclosure of the Citadel (see U92). The tower is
located on the corner of the lower enclosure, facing the top of
the Darb al-Ahmar: a strategically significant position.
Although parts of the interior have been blocked up with later
stonework, the remains of a large cross-vaulted chamber are
still visible. Outside the later curtain wall of Muhammad 'All
stand the remnants of an enormous masonry wall, which may
have corresponded to the outermost limits of the original
tower. A tentative date of the Bahri Mamluk period for this
construction is suggested here, although the tower may even
be an Ayyubid foundation.
AH1376 / AD1956
Plan. None
References Seton-Williarns
U105
U102
Ottoman sabil-kuttab
sheet
9ip
Plan'CMP Survey
Takiyat Mevleviya
AH1225/ AD1810
The foundation of this taklya for the Mevievi order
of dervishes (followers ofJalal al-Din Rumi based in
Konya) dates from AD 1810. The Samakhana, or
'Listening Hall: was constructed over the sahn of
the madrasa attached to the tomb of Hasan Sadaqa (see no.
263); the paintings that decorate the dome date from 1857
This circular space, with a wooden floor and gallery, is where
the Sufis performed the whirling dance that is characteristic of
the order The remainder of the complex comprises living units
for the members of the order, arranged in two stories around
two garden courtyards, one wing of which is built over the
adjacent Yashbak Palace (no. 266).
Map sheet
23
Plan* Courtesy Dr. Guieppe Fanfoni (main floor plan for samakhana, first
floor for takiya)
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
187
U106
U110
Hammam of Shaykhu
All 7 56 / AD1355
Mapsheet This double bathhouse was a part of the Shaykhu
23and24 khangah complex (no, 152) Part of the bathhouse
still exists, although it is severely dilapidated and
occupied by small workshops.
Plon: CMP Survey
References- Pauty 1933a, 60 (no 38), Raymond 1969,137
(nos 60 and61),
Meirecke 1992, II 224
U107
Sabil of Umm 'Abbas
AH 1 84 1AD1867
U111
Mapsheet
23
Plan:SCAArchive
Refernces' Pauty1936, 26-27, Mantran 1972, 226-27, Seton-Williams
and Stocks 1988, 359-60; Hamamsy 1992, 196-202; Jaubert 1995,
208
Conservaton' BCCMA4 1933-35, 334: BCCMAA
1946-53, 319
U108
Sabil of Ibrahim Bey al-Wali (?)
Map sheet
23
of Muhammad al-Burdayni
Plan Survey
of Egypt 1 500 Cadastral Plan
111 2
U109
AH1229 /A 1814
Map sheet
3
188
ESCR IPTIVE
CATALoGUE
AN1113 l AD1701
The dating and name of this wikala is assumed
from the adjacent sabil-kuttab (no. 405) to which
it is structurally attached, The door on the
street,
bordered with stone strapwork, gives
onto a long
passage that leads into the courtyard, which has been substan
tially overbuilt Nevertheless, the remains of an
imposing, mul
tistoiy wikala are evident
Plan. CMP Survey
Map sheet
17
U117
U113
Hammam al-Khalifa
AH/ Nineteenth century
Hammanam of Kushqadam
Eighth century AH/ Fourteenth century AD
calidarnium of this bathhouse,
Map sheet The principal domed lateral
iwans, survives intact
complete with its
17
despite the pressure of several families living with
in its confines. Slightly to the east, and with no
connection now to the calidarium, isthe original bent entrance
to thebathhouse and the disrobing room.The door can be iden
tified by its square-headed muqarnas decoration in stone The
hammam has its name by virtue of its physical proximity to the
mosque of Kushqadam al-Ahmadi (no. 153), rather than any
documented connection.
Plan CMiSurvey
References- Pauty 1933a, 61 (no 40 under name Hammam Darb ai-iosr),
Raymond 1969, 135 (no 33)
1906, 57 (item 2)
Listing and conservation. BCCMAA
Thirteenth century
AD
11118
Mosque of Shagarat al-Durr
U114
Mosque of Kalaimtay al-Gamali
AH1233 1AD1818
Mapshee This simple mosque in the Ottoman style
has two
17
arcades supported by reused columns and capitals;
one kurd survives to the left of the mihrab, The
date is derived from a wooden inscription band that runs above
-
the mihrab.
Plan, CMP Survey
U115
U116
Mosque of Sayyida Sukayna
AM1322 ! AD1904
It is not known when the first mosque was built on
Map sheet this site to commemorate Amina, the daughter of
al-Husayn. who was nicknamed 'Sukayna' 'Abd al
Rahman Katkhuda built a mosque here in AD1760
(as he did for Sayyida 'Ayesha, see no. [3781). This was replaced
in 1904 by the present mosque, constructed in a fine neDMamluk style by 'Abbas II Hilma.
Plan Al-Amroussi 1994 (insert)
References Sarneh 1946, 80-81: Raymond 1972, 244 (no. 15), al-Arussi
1994, 83-88
Listenq and conservon' BCCMAA 1887-88, 41; BCCMAA 1915-19, 334
AH 1335 / AD1916
Map sheet The tomb of Shagarat al-Durr (no. 169) was adjoined
Map"shee01in the nineteenth century by a small mosque. In the
17
1910s, this building was demolished by the Cmiet,
which then proceeded to build another mosque on the
site at some distance from the tomb The style chosen for the
construction was neo-Mamluk, and the whole exercise provides
an interesting example of the Comite's approach to historic
architecture. The project obviously
ran out of money to judge
from the unfinished state of the structure.
Archive
Plan: SCA
References Behrens-AboUScif 1983; Hamamsy 1992, 58-59
U119
Sabil of Qaythay
AD880 / AD 1475
Ul20
Plan. CMPSurvey
D ES C RI PT IVE
CAT A L0 0 U E
189
U121
Hammam, No. 83 Shari' Tulun
U126
U122
Tomb of Sidi al-Arbain
Thirteenth century (7)All / Nineteenth century (?)AD
This tomb, which has a plastered-brick dome,
stands on the slope leading to the hill of Oal'at alKabsh. Although architecturally undistinguished, it
is included here because of it its prominent posi
tion and relatively large size. The rather generic name of the
tomb, given above, is taken from the Survey of Egypt 1:500
Cadastral Plan.
Map sheet
31
U123
U127
Map sheet
Ul24
U128
Map sheet
24
U125
House of Sakna Basha
Thirteenth century AH/ Nineteenth century AD
This large two-story courtyard house, which issub
stantially intact, appears to date to the Muhammad
'All period. A heavily overpainted marble plaque
survives on the south side of the courtyard, with a
tugra and a now-illegible foundation inscription. Sections of
the original painted plaster ceilings survive, as does decorative
stonework around some of the doorways. Part of the structure
Map sheet
24
190
DESCRIPTIVE
CATALOGUE
U129
Wikala, no. 11, Shari' Mu'izz li-Din Allah
Eleventh century (?) PHI Seventeenth century (2)AD
The remains of a large wlkala of uncertain date,
arranged around two courtyards, can still be seen
on the ground (and partly at first-floor level) at this
site. The building is currently in use as a pickle fac
tory, and is known locally as wikalat al-Ubbur.
Map sheet
18
U130
U134
Mansur Palace
AN1311 / AD1893
Map sheet
27
Plan. None
Plan: None
References. Meinecke and Mcinccke-Berg 190, 33
U131
Mosque of Anbar al-Nur
Thirteenth century AHI Nineteenth century AD
This small mosque and tomb would appear to date
from the Muhammad 'Ali period. The building is of
stone, although now heavily overpainted, and has
simple arched moldings and bull's-eye windows
over the main windows. The domed tomb chamber stands at
the northern end of the site.
Ma
13
U135
Mosque of 'Abbas I Hihmi
AH1322 / AD1904
was con
This mosque (which lacks a minaret) the
period
structed in the neo-Mamluk style during
21
of 'Abbas IIHilm. The stone facade is elaborated
with recessed window bays, crenellations, and a
trilobed portal with muqarnas decoration. An inscription gives
the foundation's date. The interior has an intact marble mihrab
and a wooden ceiling supported by cast-iron columns
Plan: CMP Survey
U136
Ul32
Church of St. Mark
Thirteenth century AHf Nineteenth century AD
Malpsheet This church, though now derelict, preserves much
of its architecture and internal decoration Intact It
13
is the last surviving Rumi' building in the area
known as the Harat al-Rum. The church takes the
form of a simple aisled structure with a portico. An internal
gallery runs along the north, south, and west ends of the space.
Plan CMP Survey
Plan*None
Ul 33
Muhammad 'Ali-period palace
Map sheet
27
Plan None
D E SC RIPRT I VE
CATALOGUE
191
Glossary
ablaq
agha
amir
commander
'atfa
alley or lane
hwqaf
gukandar
hammam
public bathhouse
hara
harim
hawd
azab
Ottoman militia
hawsh
bab
gate or portal
hilal
badistan
bayt
house
iwan
himaristan
hospital
katkhuda
bunduqdar
khalif
burg
defensive tower
khan
calidarium
khanqah
dar
house, palace
darb
khitat
dawadar
kufic
dikka
kurdi
durqa'a
kursi
funduq
kuttab
mabkhara
madrasa
gamaqdar
gami'
192
GLOSSARY
malgaf
salsabil
samakhana
manzil
house or dwelling
maq'ad
mamluk
sikka
small road
lit.: 'sword-bearer'; by extension, commander of
the armies
maqsura
silahdar
mashhad
suq
market
tabut
cenotaph
takiya
Tanzim
tugra
turba
tomb or mausoleum
ustadar
waqf
wazir
vizier
wikala
mashrabiya
midan
public square
milhmandar
chief of protocol
mlhrab
minbar
muhtasib
muqarnas
naskhi
qa'a
zawiya
asmall prayer-space
gasaba
ziyada
qast
qaysarlya
gibla
qantara
bridge
qubba
rab'
rafraf
ribat
riwaq
sabat
sabil
GLOSSARY
193
Abbreviations
194
ABBREVIATIONS
JAOS:
Journal of theAmerican Oriental Society
JARCE:
Journal of theAmerican Research Centerin Egypt
JESHO:
Journal of the Economic and Social History ofthe
Orient
MDA/K: Mittellungen des Deutschen Archdologischen Instituts,
Abtellung Kairo
MiE
Memoires de lInstitut d' gypte
MIFAC: Mdmoires publies par les membres de l'Institut
franais d'archdologie orientale
MMAF: M/mcires publits par Is membres de la Mission
archeologiquE frangelse du Caire
NARCE: Newsletter of the American Research Center in Egypt
REd:
Revue des Etudes Islamiques
SCA:
Supreme Council of Antiquities
UNESCO: United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural
Organization
UNDP: United Nations Development Programme
USAID. United States Agency for International Development
References
Muqurnos9:39-55.
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195
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Behrens-Abouself, D.1983, The Lost Minaret of Shajarat adDurr at Her Complex in the Cemetery of Sayyida Nafisa.
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1985. Change in Form.and Function of Mamluk Religious
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-.
1986. Locations of Non-Muslim Quarters in Medieval
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ed., Seventh InternUtinal Congress of Turkish Art, 49-55.
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-.
1992a. The 'Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda Style. Annates
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1992b. The Favade of the Aqmar Mosque in the Context
of Fatimid Ceremonial. Muqurnas 9:29-38.
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Woqf and Architecture in Cairo (Sixteenth and
Seventeenth Century). Islamic History and Civilization,
Studies and Texts 7.Leiden: EJ.Brill.
1995. The Waqf of a Cairene Notable in Early Ottoman
Cairo: Muhibb al-Din Abu al-Tayyb. InDeguilhem 1995.
123-32.
1998. Qaytbay's Investments in the City of Cairo: Waqf
and Power. Annoles fslamologiques 32:29-40
ed. 2000. The Cairo Heritage Essays in Honor of Laio Ali
Ibrahim. Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press.
2002. Sultan al-Ghawri and the Arts MarmukStudies
Review 6:71-94.
Behrens-Abouseif, D., and L.Fernandes, 1984. Sufi Architec
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20:103-14.
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Inscriptionum Arabicorum. Premiere partie: Egypte, faso. 3
MMAF. Beirut, Librarie du Liban.
Bierman, I.A. 1995 Urban Memory and the Preservation of
Monuments. In Bacharach 1995, 1-12.
- 1998. Writing Signs: The Fatimid Public Text. Berkeley and
Los Angeles: University of California Press.
Bierman, L.A.,
R.A. Abou-el-Haj, and D Preziosi, ads. 1991. The
Ottoman City and Its Ports: Urban Structure and Social
Order.Subsidia Balcanica, Islamica et Turcica 3.New
Rochelle, N.Y.: AD. Caratzas.
Blair, S.1999. Florlated Kufic and the Fatimids. In Barrucand
1999,107-16.
Blair, S., and J.M. Bloom. 1994. The Art and Architecture of
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I
man de M6diterrne l'epoque
islamologiques 31: 61-80.
Garcin, J.-C., and M.A. Taher. 1995a. Les waqfs d'une madrasa
du Caire au XVe saecle: Les proprictis urbaines de Gawhar
al-Lala. InDeguilhem 1995, 151-86.
1995b Enquite sur le financement d'un waqf egyptien du
XVe sicle: Les comptes de Jawhar al-Lala. JESHO38:
262-303.
Gayraud, R.-P. 1986. Cdramiques trouvis lrs de Iarestauration
de la madrasa Tatar al-Higaziyya (le Caire). Annales
is/omologiques 22' 35-49.
Grohmann, A.1965. Die Baumschrift der Moschee des Ahmad
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Architecture inHonor of Professor K.A.C. Creswell, 84-94.
Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press, for the Center
for Arabic Studies.
Hamamsy, M.A. 1992. The Religious Monuments of the Period
of Isma'il Pasha (1863-1879). Master's thesis, Department
of Arabic Studies, the American University in Cairo.
Hampikian, N. 1991. The Bimanstan of aI-Mu'ayyad Shaykh and
the Area around It.Master's thesis, Department of Arabic
Studies, the American University in Cairo.
1995a. Restoration of the Mausoleum of aI-Salih Najm alDin Ayyub. InBacharach 1995:46-58.
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Time and a Proposal for the Future. Ph. D thesis, University
of California, Los Angeles.
Haimpikan, N., and M.Cyran 1999. Recent Discoveries Concerning
the Fatimid Palaces Uncovered during the Conservation
Works on Parts of al-Salthia Complex. In Barrucand 1999:
649-63,
Hanna, N.1984. Construction Work in Ottoman Cairo. Cahiers
des Annaes islamologiques 4.
-. 1989. La maison Waqf Radwan Bey au Caire. InLhobitat
traditionel musulmon autourde la Mdiiterronde-L'hritarge
architectural: Formes et fanctions, 1:61-77 Cairo: IFA0.
* 1991. Hobitercu Caire: La Maison mayenne et ses hobt
tants ouxXVIe etX1/file sikeles. 2 vols. Etudes Urbaines 2.
Cairo: FAC.
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IsmailAbu Taqryya, Egyptian Merchant Cairo The American
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al-Harithy, Howayda. 1996. The Complex of Sultan Hasan in
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Muqarnos 18:73-93.
Hassaballah, Ahmed. 2001. AHouse Reconstructed: The
Purchase Contract for the House of Mustafa Ja'far. Annales
Islamalogiques 35:163-79,
R-E.FER ENCES
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-. 1982. Maodrosa,Honqo ond Mausoleum des Barquq in
Kafro, mit einem Beitrag von Felicitas Jaritz ADA/K,
Islamische Reihe 4. Gluckstadt: JJ. Augustin.
1989. The Cairene Sabil: Form and Meaning. Muqarnas
5633-42.
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Differentislamic Ers.Jeddah: Organisation for Islamic
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Northrup, L.S. 2001. Galawun's Patronage of the Medical
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-.
1972. Les constructions de I'6mir 'Abd al-Rahman
Katkhuda au Caire. Annales Islamologiques 11:235-51.
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REFERENCES
199
Cairo, IFAO.
200
REFERENCES
REFERENCES
201
No.
202
Name of Monument
Date
Bab al-Futuh
AH 480 / AD 1087
Bab al-Nasr
AH 480 / AD1087
Wikala of Qaytbay
AH 085 / AD1480
a8
88
WrIkala of Qawsun
89
AH 1014 / AD 1605
89
Mosque of al-Hakim
A 380-403
All1084
Mosque of al-Bakn
AN1084 / AD1673
Palace al-Musafirkhana
An 1193-1203 / AD 1779-88
AN 1157 / AD 1744
91
An 1056 / AD 1646
91
91
Mosque of Bardbak
AH 865 / AD 1460
91
An 730/ AD 1329
Sabil of al-Bazdar
An 1050-51 /AD
AH 549-634/ AD1154-1237
AH 1207
1040
Page
/ Au
I AD
990-1013
87
76, 88
1630
89
AD 1673
90
1AD
1540-41
1792
90
35, 90
90
44, 90-91
91-92
64, 66, 92
64, 92
92
93
No.
Name of Monument
Date
Mausoleum of Qarasunqur
Mosque of al-Aqmar
Palace of Bashtak
AH 736-40
AN 811 /AD
AH 660
Page
/ AD
93
37, 93
52, 93-94
94
1335-39
94
1408
/ AD
94-95
AD 1262
28, 32,95
64, 95
95-96
AH 758 / AD 1357
AN 1157 / AD 1744
96
AN 9941 AD 1585
96
Mosque of Taghribardi
96
Complex of Qalawun
AK 683 ! AD 1284
AN694-96 ( AD 1294-96
97
Mosque of Mithqal
Al 763 / AD 1361
97
97
AH 735 1 AD 1334
97
before
Al 884
f AD1479
98
98
AH 901 / AD 1496
98
98
99
Al 9171 AD 1511
99
Bab al-Ghuri
AN 917/ AD 1511
99
Al
98
934 / AD 1527-28
64, 66, 99
AH 1068 / AD 1657
Mausoleum of al-Sha'rani
All 823
100
AH 1188 / AD 1774
100
/ AD
INDEX
99-100
100
1420
OF
99
BUILDINGS
B-YN UMBER
203
No.
Name of Monument
Date
All 1138 / AD
Wikalat al-Ghuri
AH 909-10/ AD1504-5
101
Maq'ad of al-Ghuri
AH 909-10/ AD 1504-5
101
AH 909-10/ AN 1504-5
101
AH 1195 / AD 1780
All 1047
I AD
1637
102
All 1042
/ AD
1632
102
AM1044
I AD
1634
102
Al 1125 / AD 1713
102
Hawd of Qaytbay
102
Wikala of Qaytbay
AH 882 / AD 1477
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay
All 882
62, 103
Madrasat al-Ghanamiya
62, 103
Mosque of al-Azhar
AN359-61 / AD 970-72
AN1188 / AD 1774
104
Mosque of al-Ayni
104
Zawiya of Ahmad
204
ibn Sha'han
Page
1AD
1725
100
100-1
101-2
102
35, 103
1477
103
104-5
105
AN829-30
105
Tomb of Azdumur
AH 885
1480
106
106
Ai 555
/ AD
1160
60, 106-7
All 795
/ AD 1393
107
AH 794 /AD
Mosque of Ganibak
Mosque of al-Maridani
AN738-40 / AD 1337-39
Mosque of Aqsunqur
Al 747 / AD 1346
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
/ AD
AD 1425-26
1392-93
105
105-6
106
37, 107
107-8
108
34, 61, 108
No.
Date
Page
109
AN 1123 / AD 1711
109
109
Qubba of al-Qimari
AH 730 / AD 1329
109-10
All 863-916
Mosque of Ulmas
AN 730
All 774
/ AD
AN 757-64/ AD 1356-62
AH 833
1430
111
Mosque al-Mahmudiya
111-12
112
Mosque of al-Sukkari
112
All7B3 J AD 1382
113
All757
/ AD
1356
113
Ribat of al-Zayni
AN 856
/ AD 1452
76, 113
AN 935/ AD 1528
113
AH 735/ AD 1335
114
Sabil of Shaykhu
AH 755 / AD 1354
114
114
Zawlyat al-'Abbar
AN 683
Mosque of Shaykhu
115
Mosque of al-Ghuri
37, 115
AN 1131 / AD 1718
115
All 816
/ AD
1413
115
Khanqah of Shaykhu
AH 756
/ AD
1355
116
All B45
AN 1035
AH 696
/ AD1297
117
AH 915
/ AD
1509
117
All 983
/ AD
1575
117
AN1042 / AD 1632
Name of Monument
110
AD 1478-1510
110
AD 1329-30
/ AD
/ AD
/ AD
/ AD
INDEX
110
1373
43, 112
114
1284-85
116
1441-42
116
1625
117
OF
117
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
205
No.
206
Name of Monument
Date
Page
648 1 AD 1250
All
Mausoleum of Qurqumas
Zawiya of Gulaq
AH 717-38 1 AD 1317-37
AH
Sabil-kuttab of al-Kirdani
AH 855
1451
119
All986/ AD 1578
120
AlH848 1 AD 1444
76, 120
All821
1418
120
Mosque of Asanbugha
AH 772 / AD 1370
120
AH 689 / AD 1290
121
AH 786-88
1384-86
121
Wikala of Taghribardi
121
AH 823
Zawlya of Fayruz
All 830
123
123
123
AH 1035
AH 1122/ AD 1710
123
124
Bab Zuwayla
AH
AH 1019
Mosque of al-Burdayn
AH 1025-38
AN 730 / AD 1330
60, 125
AN 811 / AD 1408
68,
70, 125
AH 856
1AD1452
125
AH 736 1AD1336
125
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
45, 49,
117-18
37,
72, 118
AD 1466
11B
118
118-19
798 / AD 1395
I AD
/ AD
/ AD
/ AD
/ AD
119
AD
122
1426
123
AD 1625
AD 1610
AD 1616-29
119
121-22
1420
NUMBER
119
43, 123
124
124
No.
Name of Monument
Mosque of Qaraqoga al-Hasani
Date
Page
125-26
/ AD
126
1466
AH 1060 / AD 1650
Mosque of Tagbribardi
Am 844 / AD 1440
AN 1224 / AD 1809
AN 900 / AD 1494
127
127
AN 1142 / AD 1729
127
128
Mosque of Sarghatmish
Al 757 / AD 1356
44, 128
AlH 1044
AN 263-65 / AD 876-79
AN 703 / AD 1303
129
Hawd of Qaytbay
AN 880 / AD 1475
130
Mosque of Qaytbay
AN 880 / AD 1475
130
AN 730 / AD 1330
130
Takiyat al-Sulaymaniya
Al 950/ AD 1543
130
Al 1159 / AD 1746
House of Qaytbay
Al 890 / AD 1485
131
AH 1013/ AD 1604
131
AH 1088 / AD 1677
131
Al 1127
An
719/ AD 1319
131
Am 730/ AD 1329
132
126
126-27
79, 127
128
AD 1634
/ AD
130-31
1715
131
35, 132
and AD 1778
132
132
Al 1049-50 / AD1639-40
Al 1063 / AD 1652
133
133
Al 748 / AD 1347
133
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
132-33
BY
NUMBER
207
OtH 'Lz 9
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Ol'-6c1
gel [Ce
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fuDD
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Jo WfInflW
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[IV
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BET
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In 0J XION I
T~iUuiprIS-in
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RE-SECT (Nv/ Et IN
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9el
gel 'cp
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RE-SET
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No.
Name of Monument
Date
Page
/ AD
140-41
1171-76
307
Ayyubtd wall
AH 566-72
308
AN1164/ AD 1750
35, 141-42
309
142
311
142
312
AH BD3-8 / AD 1400-6
142
1AD
before Al 857
/ AD
142-43
1453
44, 143
1631
321
AH 1041
322
AD
323
Bawd of Shaykhu
eleventh century
324
Sabil-kuttab of Qaytbay
325
eighth century
326
AH
327
eighth century AH
328
AH 1086 / AD1675
329
330
AH 1019
331
332
143
906-22 1 AD 1501-16
847 1
/ seventeenth
An
AN
century AD
143
143
(fourteenth century AD
143-44
144
AD1443
/ AD
/ fourteenth
century
144
AD
144
1716
144
/ AD1610
144
AH 1167 / AD1753
145
Takiyat al-Gulshani
AD 926 1 AD 1519
145
AH 1169 / AD1755
145
AH 1088 / AD 1677
145
145
145-46
335
1129
337
AH 1174 / AD1761
339
Bayt al-Sihaymi
AH 1058-1211
351
Khan al-Zarakisha
352
Fatimid wall
All 480
/ AD
76, 146
1648-1796
1AD1087
All 1267 ( AD
146-47
147
1250
147
355
356
AH 1084 / AD 1673
357
Tomb of al-Shurafa
358
AH 1211
359
360
AH 904
/ AD
( AD
AD
147
147
147
1796
147
148
1499
148
AH 1193 / AD 1779-80
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
209
No.
Name of Monument
Date
353
AH 1106
/ AD1694
148
364
AH 1015 j AD 1606
148
3G5
AH1060 1 AD 1650
70, 148
Page
AN 1175
/ AD
1762-63
148
148
68, 148-49
369
Waterwheel
AH 712/
AD 1312
149
370
AH 652
/ AD 1254
149
AH 1084 / AD 1673
149
AH 9401 AD 1533-34
149
149
376
All 1174
AD 1761
149
377
150
AN1175
382
395
AH 1211 / AD 1796
150
396
AH 1106/ AD1694
150
397
AN 1027/ AD 1618
150-51
398
Wakalat Bazar'a
AD 1762
46, 150
84, 150
151
151
401
AH 1236/ AD 1820
151
402
AH 1244/ AD1828
151
1708
151
152
405
AH 1113 / AD 1701
152
406
407
152
5, 56, 152
210
70,152
40B
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
No.
N'ame of Monument
Date
Page
Fagades to the south of the zawiya of Farag ibn Barquq eleventh century AH i seventeenth century AD
152
AH 823 / AD 1420
153
AH 1047 / AD 1637
153
I sixteenth century AD
tenth century AM
153
Mosque of al-Khalawatl
153
AU 710/ AD 1310
153
An 1246/ AD 1830
AU 1145
Wikalat al-Nasharin
154
Wikalat al-Sanadqiya
AM1100/ AD 1688-89
154
154
Wikalat al-Gallaba
37, 154
154
AU 1147 f AD 1735
154
(AD
76, 153
153
1732-33
AH 622 / AD 1225
154-55
AM 1166 1 AD1753
72, 155
155
155
twelfth century A
AH 1175
156
Maq'ad of Qaytbay
156
156
AN1046
/ AD1637
156
AU1144 / AD 1731
156
AM1125 / AD 1713
62, 156-57
/ AD1754
62, 157
76, 157
157
/ AD
INDEX
155
/ eighteenth century AD
155
155
1762
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
62,155-56
NUMBER
211
No.
Name of Monument
Date
Page
I seventeenth century AD
eleventh century
AH 1062 / AD 1652
157
Al 920-21 / AD 1515
157
459
All
157
AK 1199 / AD 1784
157-58
460
Wikalat al-,Sharaybi
158
461
Al 1111 / AD 1699
158
462
463
AR 1261 / AD 1845
sixteenth century
15B
AH 871 / AD 1466
158
37, 159
466
Qa'a bf al-Dardir
I AD
159
AH 1047
159
1637
159
159
471
159
476
AN781 / AD1379
160
477
AH 411-27 / AD 1021-36
160
160
479
Fatimid mausoleum
AH 527 1 AD 1133
160
480
160
AH 791
482
483
AD 1389
nineteenth century AD
160
160-51
161
J51
API1047 / AD 1637
161
161
161
212
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
No.
Name of Monument
Page
Date
eleventh-twelfth century An /
161
seventeenth-eighteenth century AD
162
AN 1194 / AD 1780
162
162
162
162
152
497
162-63
153
153
163
163
503
AN 1265
32, 153
163-64
AD 1348
164
505
AH 1229 f AD 1814
164
62, 164
507
164
510
164
AN 1065 / AD 1654-55
165
165
521
AHl710
/ AD
165
1310
165
541
165
545
165
548
165
549
550
seventeenth century AD
166
166
AD 1504-5
62, 166
Al 1181 / AD 1767
166
553
AH 10941 AD 1683
166
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
213
No.
214
Name of Monument
Date
Page
166
Bab al-Azab
167
Bab al-Mudarrag
AH 579 / AD 1183-84
167
Sabit of al-Wafa'iya
167
72, 167
Al 947 / AD 1540
45, 167
167-68
Hammam of Inal
168
Hammam al-Tanbali
twelfth century Ai
Al 1233 /AD
Hamnman al-Effendi
Hammam al-'Adawi
168
159
169
169
J59
Hammam al-Malatyali
Al
1194 / AD 1780
159
An 1070
/ AD
1659
170
AH 1062/ AD 1652
170
Hammam al-Sukkarlya
170
Wikalat al-Muhammadayn
twelfth century Al
AH 1253
1837
170
AH 1244 / AD 1828
170-71
The Mint
An 1227/ AD 1812
171
AH 1040-45
AiH1234/ AD 1827
AH 1052
Bab al-Barqiya
AH 1189
172
AH 712 / AD 1312
172
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
eighteenth century AD
1817
/ AD
/ AD
1AD
35, 168
76, 168
/ eighteenth
century AD
1630-35
1652
AD 1766
168
170
170
171
171
171
171
171-72
No.
Name of Monument
Date
Page
Aa 1062 / AD1652
172
Wikalat al-Shishin
172
172
House of al-Khorazati
AH 1299
Hanimam al-Gamaliya
173
173
Mosque of al-Shuhada
AH 1281 t AD 1864
173
House of al-Again
AH 1288 / AD 1871
173
Bab al-Qantara
AH 480 / AD 1087
173
173
fab al-Tawflq
AH 480 / AD 1087
173
Tower no. 17
173
174
All 1281
Wikalat al-Gulshaniya
174
174
Hammam al-Nahhasin
174
Wikalat al-Asal
eleventh-thirteenth century AH /
172
AD1881
174
AD 1864
174
seventeenth-nineteenth century AD
/ AD1600-1930
ca. AN1009-1349
174
175
/ eighteenth century AD
twelfth century AMl
Synagogue of Maimonides
Karaite Synagogue
All 1271
175
175
176
176
176
Hanmain al-Sharaybi
176
175
/ AD1854
INDEX
OF
175
175
175
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
62, 176
215
No.
Name of Monument
Date
Page
Zawtyat al-Harisi
176
Ottoman maq'ad
176
Wikalat al-Sayf
176
AN1306 / AD1888
177
Hammam aI-Gabali
177
76, 177
177
177
AH 1088
dAD1677
177
AH 1284/ AD 1868
177
178
Hammam al-Qirablya
178
178
178
148
Islamic Museum
An 1321
thirteenth century An
179
179
Al 579-12421 AD 1183-1826
180
180
180
Tomb of al-Marghani
180
AH 1334 1 AD 1915
180
181
181
216
Abdallah al-Baz
/ AD
1903
All 1063
eleventh century Am
Rab' al-Tabbana
All921-22 ! AD 1516
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NUMBER
178
nineteenth century AD
178
179-80
I AD1652
INDEX
43, 178
181
I seventeenth
century
AD
181
181
46, 60, 181
We
No.
Name of Monument
Date
U63
AH
U64
AH 1334
U65
U66
182
U67
All
182
U68
AH 1280 1 An 1863
182
U69
182
U70
U71
Well, quam:
AN
U72
Bayi al-Gazia
U73
U74
AH
U75
U76
183
U77
before AH 902 /
183
181
1 AD
181
1915
182
f?l
182
AD
572-89
182-83
1040 1 A n 1630
183
183
183
183
.AD
AD 1496
U78
Hammam al-Dud
U79
Wikalat al-Khaiawati
before AH i l l 0 1 xu 1698
184
U80
184
U8l
Us2
184
U83
Diwan of Schools
184
Us4
Mamluk kitchens
..
4D
1830
183
. ,
188
U85
Bab al-Gedid
U86
U87
Burg al-Slha'
411 659-76
U88
Qa'at al-Ashrafiya
AH
U89
Burg ai-Rafraf
~11689-714/ A D 1290-1314
185
U90
105
U91
AH 689-714
195
U92
The Arsenal
ca, AH 12%
I AD 1820
186
U93
Inner Gate
U94
Qubbat al-Biraqdar
AH 1242 / A D 1826
1 AD
184
185
1260-77
185
692 / A D 1292
INDEX
OF
185
AH
186
1 late seventeentl~cenmly AD
BUILDIhIGS
B Y
-
NUMBER
186
217
No.
Name of Monument
Date
U95
U96
Corbclcd facade
U97
AH 712
U98
U99
Tomb o ~ b ~ u h a m m aAgha
d
page
1 AD
thirteenth century
AD
1312
AH
AD
I nineteenth century AD
rwelfrh century
AH
1286-1330
AH
1376 1 AD 1956
AH
1225 1 AD 1810
AH 756 / A D 1355
AH
AH
AH 1211
Ulll
AH
/ AU
I eighteenth century AD
1869-1911
1284 1 AD 1867
AD
/ AD
1796
n H 1113 1 AD 1701
AH 1233 / A D 1818
AH 1322 / n o 1904
AH 1335 / A D 1916
AH 880 / A D 1475
twelfth centuly
AD
I righlernth centu~y.lo
twelfth centmy (1)AH 1 eighteenth century I?) AE
thirteenth century I?) AH I nineteenth century (7) A D
lilirieenlh centuy AH I nineteenth century AD
AH 1410 1 AD 1989
eighth century
218
INDEX
O F
BUILDINGS
B Y
N U M B E R
AH
(?I M I roulteenth
AD
century (71 AD
No.
Name of Monument
Page
Date
(?I
twelfth century
140
before h~ 1215 /
1800
191
191
thirteenth century
before AH 1267 /
A11
AH 1322 1 AD 1904
191
191
AH
AD
AH
AD
I ninctcenm
century AD
1850
O F
191
191
191
1311 / A D 1893
I N D E X
190
B U I L D I N G S 4.Y:
NUMBER
219
Almai~kal-Gukandar, mosque. 2 4
a-Alwa, burg: U i l O
Project
Amin Effend!, sabil-kuttab. See 23
al-Amir, wikala. See 188
Amna bint Salim. house: 559, pp. 45. Ser olso 321
mosque: 210
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NAME
221
' A t h t al-Zababqi
house: (501)
a-Mabyada: 356
al-Gabal: U81
Aydumurai-Bahlawan, mosque: 22
'Ayesha al-Suhutiya
al-Hasanayn. See 28
Aytm~shal-Baijaii
al-lqbal. Sce6. 7
hawd-kuttab' 251
al-'lrr. See 7
mosque: 250
al-Mabyada: 356
6% 68.
al-Mudarrag: 556
al-Oantara: U8
Bab (gates)
a-Qulla: U51L
pyr. %See28
al-Alam: U86
al-'Azab: 555
al-Badlstan (aiLGhuri): 53
al-Bahr: pp. 6
Bayt al-Qadi:616
See oiso I 9 0
Babylon: pp 3.6. 14
al-Gabal: U81
Z 14,27,55
S ~ also
P 556
Badr al-Gamali
al-Hasanayn. See 28
al-lqbai. See 6, 7
al-'122. See 7
222
I N D E X OF
BUILDINGS
BY
MAME
Bimaristan
of Qalawun: 43, pp 36
of al-Mu'awad Shaykh.257, pp 43. See olso (1371, 326
al-Biraqdar, qubba: U94
Bircher House. (504)
Birka
al-Azbaklya: pp. 13, 14, 16, 31, 32, 55,58
al-Fil: pp 13, 14, 32, 37, 38, 55, 58
'Bir YusuP: 305, pp. 25.27. See olso U51M
'Blue Mosque' [mosque of Aqsunqurl: 123. pp30.61
Bohra lsma'il~s.restoration projects. See 15. 33, (1 701.
pp 46, 72
Bulaq: pp. 3, 6, 7, 8,10, 14, 31. 37,55
Mosque o f Abu'l 'lla, pp 37
Bashtak (amir)
hammam: 244
khanqah. See U68
mosque. See 34, 205. U69
Bunduqdari
al-Burdayni. SeeKarim al-Din al-Burdaynl
Burg [defensive towers]. Sec U51 possim
al-Ahmar: U511
al-Alwa: US10
al-Haddad U51C
al-Imam: U51W
al-Kirkilyan: U51P
al-Matar: US15
al-Muballat: U51T
al-Muqattam: USIM. See also: U51K
al-Muqusar: U51U
al-Rafraf: U89. See olso 549
al-Ramla: U5lB
al-Sat~ra: U51E
al-Sba': U87
al-Suffa: U51N
al-Turfa: U51R
sabil-kuttab: 337
a-Wuitanl: U51K
a-Zawlva: U l O l
wikala: 615
aldellfia (Bafiya), sabll-rab': (498). See olso 243
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NAME
223
sabil-kuttab. 5ee 17
wlkala. E e 19. pp 35;see oiso 551, (371)
'Divdan of Joseph': p p 27.28
Churches
Cathedral of St. Nicholas: U34
Holy Order o f St. Francis: U23
of St. M a r k U132
of thevirgin, Harat ai-Rum: 483
in Ciladel: 569
Fadil, hammam Clad! al-Fadll. See 596; see oko Mustafa Fadi Pasha
mosque: 109
sabat: (366)
al-Fakhr!. See'Abd al-Ghani al-Fakhri
Faramangu~House: (534)
Faris Aqtal. mausoleum. 370
Darrasa: pp. 53
Fustat: pp. 4 5 5
224
INDEX
OF B U I L D I N G S BY
N A M E
al-Ghamrl contd
sabil-kuttab. See (4911
ai-Ghuraylb
mosque: pp 62
al-Ghuri (al-Ashraf Qansuh al-Ghuii, sultan)
constructions in Khon ol-Kholiir: pp. 37
house: 65
mausoleum: 67
sabil-kuttab. 67
Giza: pp 3, 10, 14
al-Gizi. See'Al~ai-Girl
al-Guyushi, mashhad: p p 46
Hammam (bathhouse)
Aydaghmish. SeeU38
Bashtak: 244
al-Gaz~a,bayt: U72
al-Dud: U76
al-Ghamri
al-Efiendl: (566)
al-Gabali: U35
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NAME
225
Hasan Katkhuda
sabil-kuttab: 405
Inal: 562
w~kala:U112
al-Khaifa: U l l 7 , pp. 3 7
Kushqadam: U113
Qalawun: U16
al-Ilirabiya: U42
aldharaybi: U30
See 428
Shaykhu: U106
a l d i t t . See U l l 7
a-Sukayna. SeeU117
ai-Sukkarlya: 596
Qaytbay. 74,222
Hilmiya: pp. 58
Hasan al-'Adawi
tomb. See 24
226
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
N A M E
al-Gafia: U72
al-S~hayml:339, pp. 76
al-Nasir Muhammad
sabil: 238
takiya: 332
al-Imam, b u r g U51W
w~kaia:U79
al-Khalifa. hammam: U117, pp. 37
Imbaba: pp. 14
lnal (al-Azhraf inal, sultan)
Khallg al-Masri IShari' Bur Sa'id): pp. 3, 6, 8, 10, 13, 16, 27, 32,
35, 43,55, 66.58, 64, 76. See also 141, 181, 182, 184, 196,
hammam: 562
ribat. See 61
w~kala.See (4221
n a al-Yusufi llnai ai-Atabaki), mosque: 118, pp. 3 7
mausoleum. See 43
Khaiil Effendi al-Muqatl'gui, sabil-kutiab: 71
Isma'll (khedive)
al-Fsqiya: (4841
Isma'iliya: pp 19
mosque o f al-Husayn, restorations. See28
mosque o f Ragab Agha, restoratlons. See U47
a-Musafirkhana. See 20
Sa'id (450)
al-Larakisha: 351. pp. 64.66
1 al-Manawi),
Barquq: 187
Qawsun: 290.291
Shaykhu: 152
228
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NAME
Madrasa contd,
Hasan [sultan): 133; pp. 3, 6, 23, 28, 32, 34, 37, GO.
Seeaiso 120. 190 Iusurpationd
ai-IKamiliya: 428
al-Nasir Muhammad: 44
aarasunqur: 31
house- (5141
sabil-kuttab: 52
al-Maghrabi ~ A I al-Maghrabi],
I
zawiya: U41
al-Mahgar. SeeU71
al-Krltliya, house and sabil: 321, pp. 44. See olso 559
Mahmud Muharram
masque: 30
palace (al-Musafirkhana): 20
Mahmud Sudan, house: (5011
a-Manawi
house (334)
sabil and wlkala: 1496)
Barquq: 187
Mangak al-Yusufi
al-Gukandar: 24
.
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
. BY
NAME
229
Manzil contd.
'Uthman 'Arnara b y n a b Umm Ahmad): (470)
al-Mihmandarlya
mosque. See 42
wikala: U24
Abu'l Ghadanfar: 3
Bayt ai-Qadl: 51
al-Baqli: 156
Bashtak: 205
Gaqmaq: (31 7). See o l m U82
al-Ghanamiya: U26
al-Hunud: 237
al-Husayn: 28
al-Ghuri: 159
Muhammad ai-Burdayni: U l l l
al-Suitanlya: 288
Mint: 606
tomb: U55
al-Margush, man211and hamrnarn: (490)
'Abd ai-Basit: 60
of al-Husayn. See 28
230
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NAME
ai-Gawhari: 462
al-Ghamri: (4651, pp 37
Almalik al-Gukandar: 24
Altunbugha al-Maridan~:120
al-Amir Mithqal: 45
Anbar al-Nui: U131
Asanbugha: 185
Aydumur al-Bahlavran: 22
al-Hittu: U6
a-Ayn~,mosque: 102
ibn al-Bakri: 18
Barquq: 187
Barsbay. 175
al-Khudayri: (552)
al-Bazdar. See 27
'Blue Mosque' [mosque of Aqsunqur): 123
al-Burdayni: 201
al-Fakahani:109
Mahmud Muharram: 30
al-Mahmudiya: 135
al-Fiyl. See 34
60.
55
Marzuq aldhmadi: 29
Messih Pasha: 160
Mihmandar: 115
al-Mihmandar~ya,See42
INDEX
OF
al-Sha'nnl (shaykh): 59
al-Shuhada: U6
Sidi Ahmad al-Rifa'i: U103, pp. 46, 61
Sid~Shahin: U98
aldiahdar: 382, pp. 84
Taghribardi Ial-Mlhrnandanya): 42
Taybars (am~r).Sce 97
'Umar ibn Raslan al-Bulqmi: (481)
Oaraq~gaai-Hasan): 206
Oawsun (amir): 202, pp. 46, 60. See aiso 224. 290, U62
al-Mu'awad Shaykh
232
INDEX
OF
B U I L D I N G S BY
N A M E
Arsenal: U92
Barracks: U54
al-Musafirkhana, palace: 20
Murshid (shaykhl, zawiya and sabil-kuitab: (374)
mosque: 503
Museums
mosque: 98
blustala Sioan
house: 545
sabil: 246
INDEX OF
BUILDINGS
B Y
NAME
233
Palaces contd.
Nafisa al-Bayda
hammam. See 596
sabi. 358
wlkaia: 395
Taz (am~r):267
madrasa: 44
Pyramids: p p 3,23,26
palace: 549
Qaramidan: 617
sabll: 561
al-Ashrafiya: U88
sahr~g:569
in Bashtak Palace: 34
tomb. See 43
Baybars. See 50
al-Dardr: 466
Nllometer: pp. 6,7, 23, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 32,3537
Barhtak: 34
234
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
B Y
NAME
Qa'a contd.
Qawsun (amir)
khanqah: 290
rn mosque of ai-Ayn~:102
~n mosque of Aytmish ai-Bagasi: 250
mausoleum: 291
bab: 278
In
hawd: 74.222
maq'ad: (440)
mosque: 223
raw: (518)
al-Biraqdai. U94
al-Komi: 256
Rab'
Aytmlsh al-Bagasi See250, 251
Qarasunqur, mausoleum: 31
INDEX OF
B U I L D I N G S 'BY
NAME
235
Raw motd
Daib al-Dalil: U50
of Qaytbay: (518)
a-Qlzlar: 265
o f Tughugh: (287)
Amir Muhammad: 14
'Aqash: 236
Radwan Bey
zawiya: 365, pp 70
al-Ghamn: (491)
al-Guwwanya. 5ee 14
Ribat
Ahmad ibn Sulayman: 245
Khawand Zaynab: 61
al-Din al-Rifa'l
Isma'il ~ b Ahmad
n
(al-Maghlawi
236
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NAME
Iai-Manawi):
57, pp 64, 66
ai-Maghartellin: U44
Mamluk:67.76,144,148.203.213.250,255,324.557. U119
al-Manawi: (496)
al-Wsfa'iya: 557
Dttomn: 14, 16, 17, 21, 23.27, 40, 52.57. 62, 69. 70, 71
150, 179, 194, 197, 198, 219. 226, 230. 232, 236.238,
U102, UlOB
Salah al-Din
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS
B Y
NAME
237
Shaykhu (amlr)
hammam: U106
hawd: 323
mosque: 147
sabil: 144
al-Shuhada, mosque: U6
Khawand Baraka
Shafi'i, tomb o f imam: pp. 8
Shagarat al-Durr
harnmam. SeeU117
mausoleum: 169, pp 45
mosque: U118, pp 45
S ~ dMuhammad
i
ai-Sha'rani, rawlya: (502)
ai-Sha'rani
zawlya: (5021
al-Sharaybi
hammam: U30
wikala: 460
238
INDEX
O F
BUILDINGS
BY
N A M E
sabll-kuttab: 14
Sulayman Pasha
aiJultaniya
Abu'l Ghadanfar: 3
minaret: 288
Ahmad al-Qaiid: 10
Anuk. 44
Ardurnur: 113
Karaite: U22
Maimon~des:U21
al-Blraqdar: US1
Faris Aqtai: 370
Taghribard~
al-Ghurl: 57
mosque: 42
wikala: 188
Takiya
ai-Gulshani: 332
lraniya: U7
Khayrbah: 248
al-Sha'rani. See 59
Muhammad al-Anwar: 68
.
INDEX
O F
BUILDINGS
B Y
N A M E
239
zawiya: (371)
Ulfat Qadrn
sabi: U68
Qawsun: 291
tomb: U69
Qaytbay: p p 34,37
'Umar Agha
house: U59
a-Sha'rani: 59
al-Shurafa: 357
sabil: U36, pp 76
Sinan (shaykh): 41
Tatar al-Heganya: 36
al-Wafa'iya
manzil: 463
sabil: 557
al-Wali. See lbrahim Bey al-Wali
Walls: 307, 352, U11, U51, UBI, U127. See ofso Bab: Burg
Northern: pp. 3. 64
Waqi propertler
al-'Abbar: (439)
'Asal. See (4911
240
I N D E X .OF
BUILDINGS
BY
NA,ME
Wikala mntd.
Baybarstal-Gashankir. See 16
ai-Fakahani: 13661
al-Gulshanlya: U14
Hasan Katkhuda: U l l 2
al-Magharba: (488)
al-Kharbutii: (367)
a M a t y u l i : (424)
al-Lawand: (4031
al-Mulia: 541
al-Khalawati: U79
a-Mihmandanya: U24
al-Muhammadayn (al-Khat~b):597
al-Saftl: 14861
Sa'ld Pasha: 65
al-Sha'ranl: 63
al-Naqadi: 397
al-~uiungi.548
(Shar~'a-Surugiyya) U77
al-Qutn. See 9
al-Sanadqiya: 423
al-Say? U33
Wlkala
a-Sharaybi: 460
al-'Asal: U17
'Atfat al-Zababqi (Ibrahim Agha]: [491)
Taghribardi: 168
al-Tinah. See 16
al-Tabtabay: (468)
Bedawlya Shah~n:615
al-Ubbur: U129
al-Firakh: (399)
INDEX
OF
BUILDINGS+B'Y
NAME
241
Zawiya contd.
'Ali Negm. See 359
,!
al-Arbain: (353)
Fayruz: 192
GaPar al-Sadiq: 554
al-Har~si:U31
al-Hunud: 237
al-Mu'ayyad Shqkh. See 145
wikala: U39
Yusuf Agha a-Habashi, tomb: 229
al5utuhi: (478)
al-Tabbakh: (431)
wikala. See U5
Zabvtya
aldbbar: 146
Abdallah al-Baz (shaykhl: U58
559, U119
242
INOEX
OF
BUILDINGS
B Y
NAME
Tulunids hi 254-92
263-65 1876-73
lkhshids
519 i 1125
527 11133
544 1 1149
549 1 1154
549-6341 1154-1236
/ .w868-905)
mosque of Ahmad ibn Tulun: 220
1 hD 905-35)
552 11157
555 11160
565-66 (71 / 1170 (?I
Ramban Yesh~va[synagogue of
Maimonldesl: U21
tomb of Sayyld Sariya. See 142
mosque of al-Aqmar: 33
mausoleum: 479
doors o f the mosque o f Khalif
al-Zafir: 1W
mashhad of al-Husayn. See28
gatewayand minaret of the
mosque of aCHusayn: 28
madasa of Abu'l Ghadaofar: 3
mosque of al-Salih Tala',': 116
Tower no. 17: U17
..
enclosure: US1
hammam ai-Gabali: U35
Burg al-Ahmar: US11
Bura a\-Suffa: U51N
64.1 11243
'
Awb: 38
647-48
1 1249
hammam of~ydaghmish.SeeU36
Mamluk k~tchens:U84
minaret and mausoieum
ai-Sultaniya: 288.289
qubba o f Awiad al-Asyad: 215
rab'ofTutlhuah: 12871
retaining k a i i i n citadel U127
tomb o f Sandal al-Mangaki: 327
wikalat al-Flrakh: 13991
mausaleum a? Qarasunqur: 31
restorations, by Baybars
a-Gashank~r,in mosque of
ai-Hak~m See 15
mosque o f Saar and Sangar: 221
khanqah of Baybars al-Gashankir: 32
madrasa o f am~rTaybars.See97
tomb o f Sangar al-Gamaqdar
(mosque o f a-Kurdi): (417)
mosque o f Ahmad Bey Kohya: 521
Qaramtdan, sunlving wall: 617
sahrig, i n the Citadel: 569
tower and waterwork, of ai-Nasir
Muhammad: 369
vJell o f the hawsh: U97
modifications t o Burg ai-Rafraf.
See U89
700 I l 3 0 0 - I
701-2 11302
703 1 1303
706-9 11306-10
709 / 1309
710 / 1310
712 / 1312
7141 1314
244
INDEX
OF
BUlLOlNGS
BY
DATE
741 1 1340
before 742 / 1341
742 1 1341
745-46 1 1344-45
before 747 / 1346
747 / 1346
Burgi Mamluks
783 / 1382
(AII
INDEX
O F
B U l L D l N O S BY D A T E
245
920-21
1 1515
921-221 1516
913 / 1507
10th 116th centuly
lD4011630
1088 11677
248
INDEX
O F
BUILDINGS
BY
DATE
1159 11746
before 1159 / 1747
before 1164 / 1750
11641 1750
11661 1752
1166-67
/ 1753
1AD
1798-1801)
INDEX
O F
8UiLDlNGS
BY
DATE
249
mosque of Muhammad
al-Bukturri U123
1227/1812
12291 184
12331 1817
structure in cemetery of
al-hurayib. See U25
tomb of Sidi al-Arbain: U1 22
mosque of Hasan Pasha Tair.
See '210
takiyyat Meveviya
(Samakhana): U10O
theMint:606
Ramadan): 499
mausoleum of Ahmad Pasha
Talr: 565
mosque of Kalamtayal-Gaali: 114
sabil of Tusun Pasha: 401
Arsenal (Topkhcne):U92
Bab al-Gedid:
785
Harim Palace: 612
palace of Muhammad 'Al: U100
tower in Citadel enclosure. 1151G
1244/ 1828
Dar al-Mahfuzat I Daftarkhana
(Archives):605
sabil of Ismajil
Pasuaa: 402
ca. 1244 11822
Army Barracks: U54
1246/ 1230
sabil of Hasar Agha Arzingan: 420
ca 1246 / 1830
Diwan of Schools: U183
1246-1300/t1830-o2 Bab al-Alhm: Ua
1253/1837
wkala of Sulayrgan Agha
al-Silahdar 604
1253-55 / 1837-39
mosque of Sulayman Agha: 382
1261 1845
mosque of al-Gawhari 462
1265 1848
mosque of Muhammad 'A : 503
before 1267 / 1850
Muhammad 'All-period palace: U1133
126711850
zawiyat al-Arbain (363)
ca 1267/1 850
house, 'Atfat al-Zelahi
(Bayt Sukkar): 157
mosque of Raab Aga: U47
tomb of Patia al-Nabawiya: U
ca. 1267/1851
sabil of UmmHusayn Bey; U i
1233 / 1818
1236 / 1820
ca. 1236/ 1820
1242h1826
1243he1o27
250
IN D EX
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DATE
1271 / 1854
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