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Introduction
Ed Veroskys 10-Minute Guide to On-Camera Flash Photography
is a mini-guide created in response to the demand for instruction
dealing only with automatic (TTL) on-camera flash for indoor portrait
photography. While my eBooks and courses on multi-light, studiotype setups are popular, many of my readers have requested a guide
that focused primarily on the most convenient use of flash; cameramounted techniques.
Here, you will find very little in the way of lighting theory and advanced
portrait lighting techniques. Im also keeping the focus on gear and
techniques that work, rather than spend any time demonstrating less
helpful methods. What you will get is a concise guide that gives you
all the tools you need to create professional-looking portraits with your
flash conveniently mounted directly to the hot shoe of your camera.
I hope you enjoy this guide.
Ed Verosky
Recommended Gear
DSLR. A modern digital SLR or mirrorless
camera with through-the-lens (TTL) flash
metering capabilities.
Flash Unit. Compatible with your DSLR
and its implementation of TTL. Tilt/rotating flash head.
YOUR CAMERA
You should already be familiar with
the basic operation of your camera.
This includes: knowing how to change
exposure modes, like switching from P mode over
to Aperture Priority or Manual mode, and knowing
how to adjust things like ISO, aperture, and shutter
speed settings. Were also going to cover a special
adjustment feature called, Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC).
Now if youre not familiar
with the basic features
of your camera (Figure
2), its best if you stop
here, and look at your
cameras manual to learn
these functions or at
least how to access them.
Then come back to this
guide.
A
Figure 2. (A) Shooting modes, (B) exposure settings, (C) Flash Exposure Compensation.
Figure 3. External flash with tilting/rotating flash heads are the most versatile.
FLASH EXPOSURE
COMPENSATION
Given how TTL handles flash output power, the Flash Exposure Compensation
(FEC) setting on your camera gives you
the important ability to override the automatically determined flash output. In other
words, you can use FEC to dial-in more (or
less) flash if you feel it will improve your picture. FEC is a good tool for indoor as well as
outdoor portraiture (see Figure 7). See your
camera and flash manual for instructions on
how to adjust FEC with your setup.
Figure 7. Sequence showing the use of Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) in an outdoor demonstration. From left to right, at -1 (less flash), 0 (no compensation), and +1 (more
flash). Use FEC as needed to override the amount of flash power determined by TTL.
3: FLASH MODIFIERS
When your flash fires, it produces a very short but powerful burst of
light. The light is emitted from a small flash tube, and directed out
of the flash head through a lens on the front. This makes the light
source effectively no larger than a business card. The problem with
that is, a small light source can create harsh, unflattering light. We
usually want a larger, softer-looking light for our portraits.
My favorite way to achieve the look of softer light with on-camera
flash is to just point the flash at some large light-colored surface (like
a wall), and use this as the main illumination for the portrait. But
there are some other solutions that can help create a softer look to
your flash.
One popular type of modifier is a piece of plastic that fits over the
flash head as shown in Figure 8. It disperses light in different directions, widening the spread of the beam coming out of the flash head.
This doesnt actually emit softer light, but it does help spread the
light from the flash to the surrounding walls and ceiling. This gives
the light a chance to bounce back toward the subject from different
angles, reducing contrast. And THATs what gives us the look of
softer light.
If you dont have a wall or other large light-bouncing surface nearby,
you might try a bounce card (see Figure 9). This can improve your
portrait by creating a larger initial light source directed toward your
subject. The added benefit is that the flash head is also directing a
lot of light onto the ceiling. That light bounces back down and also
helps reduce contrast.
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4: TECHNIQUES
This guide is intended to show you how to create professional-looking
indoor portraits with on-camera flash in 10 minutes. And I want to make
good on that promise! Theres no better way to learn, than by doing.
So, lets get started!
Were going to start with a few basics. Keep in mind that not every
DSLR and flash system work the same way, so make any adjustments
to these instructions as needed.
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Figure 10. (Left) Flash secured to hot shoe of camera. (Right) Camera powered on and set
to Manual (M) mode.
4) If youve set your camera to Manual mode, you might use the following camera settings as a starting point:
ISO. 100-400
Shutter Speed. 1/60
Aperture. f/2.8 - f/5.6
Again, these are example exposure settings, but they should work for
most indoor lighting scenarios. Determine what works best for your
combination of camera, lens, flash, and portrait style.
Tip: Control the amount of ambient (room light) showing up in your
photos by dialing the shutter speed up or down.
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Figure 12. On-camera flash portrait using the wall bounce technique.
If other light-colored walls and a ceiling are available (which is usually the
case indoors) all the better, because of the pleasing natural bounce youll
get from all surfaces in varying degrees of illumination. As a matter of
fact, bouncing your flash is the key to all great on-camera flash portrait
lighting. Its just a matter of using the right technique for the job!
To get consistently good results from this technique, I suggest that you
find a sweet spot; where you and your subjects distance and orientation
to the wall results in the best portraits. Always start there, then adjust as
you like.
This technique is very versatile as it can give you everything from very
dramatic split-lighting to soft, even illumination. Your subjects orientation
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to the wall, and the additional bounce lighting youll get from the other
surfaces in the room will help determine the overall contrast and quality of
your lighting.
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Figure 14. Result of using on-camera flash with the wall and ceiling bounce technique.
gled so you dont block the light from reaching the subject as it bounces
back toward her. This technique produces a pleasing result as shown in
Figure 14.
I find that this technique works well with a wide-angle lens, and when the
flash is positioned far enough from the wall to allow for a broad bounce.
This is just another example of using the surfaces in the environment to
create bounce lighting. You can position the flash at various angles to
light the room in different ways from the cameras perspective.
The thing you want to watch out for when doing a portrait with this technique; make sure you bounce the flash high behind you, or angled so
that you dont block the light from reaching the subject as it bounces back
toward her.
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MODIFIERS
Another way to get the wall and ceiling to work for you is to use a modifier
to help spread the light around the room. A flash diffuser, like the STOFEN Omni-Bounce that we talked about earlier is designed to scatter the
light from your flash unit around the room as it simultaneously directs
some of the light toward your subject. Light coming in from different angles helps to fill in shadows produced by the more direct light. This fill
light cuts down the contrast which produces a softer-looking light.
Figure 15. (Left) Normal orientation of the flash bounce diffuser. (Right) Result of using a
foam bounce card.
Some modifiers like the foam bounce card, are designed to make the light
coming from your flash position a little larger in relation to your subject,
which can also help. But the orientation of the flash head, when using a
bounce card like this, also sends light up toward the ceiling, creating additional bounced light. Figure 15 shows orientation of the Omni-Bounce
and the result of using a foam bounce card.
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DIRECT FLASH
Ill add this section only for completeness. It would make sense that you
already know how to use your flash
in the straight-ahead, unmodified orientation. But even as this technique
is something many photographers try
to avoid, its not always a bad idea. It
has a look to it that suggests a certain urgency. You can use this look to
Figure 16. Direct flash.
quickly create a no-frills portrait or use
if for effect for example for a photo-booth effect as shown in Figure 16. So, dont completely write this
one off, it can come in handy sometimes. Its just not the best use of
flash for most professional-looking portraits.
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ED VEROSKYS
10-MINUTE GUIDE TO
ON-CAMERA
FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY
Look For More Photography Resources At
veroskycourses.com
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