Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
ISSUE 9
SUMMER
SPECIAL
SNAPSHOTS from
SOUTHEAST ASIA
PHILIPPINES
NATURE CALLS
MALAYSIA
MAGIC KINGDOM
THAILAND
NORTH TO SOUTH
SOUTH KOREA
ART OF ZEN
SINGAPORE
WILD WAYS
MACAU
BEYOND CASINOS
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
MARCH 2016
CONTENTS
Vol 4 Issue 9
SUMMER SPECIAL
100
Koh Khai Nok, Thailand
90
ITS A
WONDERFUL
WORLD
100
YOUR OWN
PRIVATE
THAILAND
78
JEWEL OF
MALAYSIA
126
112
CREATURES GREAT
AND SMALL
118
JOURNEYS
IN A MONKS SHOES
126
PAUL SOUDERS/LATITUDE/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
22
58
ISSUE 9
SUMMER
SPECIAL
18 Clan Rules
N AV I G AT E
22 Culture
Detour
30
Cinemascape
64 The Souvenir
20 Crew Cut
58 National Park
SOUTHEAST ASIA
PHILIPPINES
NATURE CALLS
MALAYSIA
MAGIC KINGDOM
THAILAND
NORTH TO SOUTH
SOUTH KOREA
ART OF ZEN
SINGAPORE
WILD WAYS
MACAU
BEYOND CASINOS
On The COver
In this image,
photographer Felix Hug
captures the limpid
waters at Maya Bay in
Thailands Phi Phi Islands.
The islands are part of a
national park, and have
excellent snorkelling and
water sport opportunities.
Decorated long-tail boats
or reua hang yao are often
used to travel between
the various islands of this
small archipelago.
66 Heritage
68 The Insider
74 Ecotourism
GET GOING
138 Adventure
came alive
SHORT BREAKS
46 Sporting Spirit
From Bhopal
50 Book Extract
54 Local Flavour
10
REGULARS
14 Editors Note
16 Notebook
154 Inspire
160 Strange Planet
Stay
152
VOICES
De lhi
Deputy General Manager (Print & Online)
RAJ MANI PATEL (rajmani.patel@ack-media.com)
Key Account Manager AAKANSHA DEOPA (aakansha.deopa@ack-media.com)
Consultant JASWINDER GILL (jaswinder.gill@ack-media.com)
Be nga luru
Account Director (South) S.M. MEENAKSHI (sm.meenakshi@ack-media.com)
Che nna i
Consultant SHANKAR JAYARAMAN (shankar.j@ack-media.com)
Ea ste rn Re g io n
Authorized Representative JAIN ENTERPRISES
(033 22488257; bcjain@vsnl.com)
Sc he d uling
Assistant Manager SANDEEP PALANDE (sandeep.palande@ack-media.com)
FORM IV
(SEE RULE 8)
STATEMENT ABOUT OWNERSHIP AND OTHER PARTICULARS ABOUT
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA (ENGLISH)
1
MONTHLY
Nationality
INDIAN
YES
N.A.
Address
UNIT NO. 201 & 202, SUMER PLAZA, 2ND FLOOR, MAROL
MAROSHI ROAD, ANDHERI (EAST), MUMBAI 400 059
Editor's Name
Nationality
INDIAN
YES
N.A.
Address
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All prices, phone numbers, and addresses are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to
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About us National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling that
inspires travel. It is about family travel, about travel experiences, about discoveries, and insights. Our
tagline is Nobody Knows This World Better and every story attempts to capture the essence of a
place in a way that will urge readers to create their own memorable trips, and come back with their own
amazing stories.
COPYRIGHT 2016 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NATIONAL
GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER: REGISTERED TRADEMARK MARCA REGISTRADA.
UNIT NO. 201 & 202, SUMER PLAZA, 2ND FLOOR, MAROL
MAROSHI ROAD, ANDHERI (EAST), MUMBAI 400 059
This issue of National Geographic Traveller India comes with a complimentary copy of the Switzerland
Special, created in association with Switzerland Tourism. The Switzerland Special edition is free with the
February 2016 issue and cannot be sold separately.
Place of Publication
I, Vijay Sampath, hereby declare that the particulars given above are true to the best of my
knowledge and belief.
Date: February 22nd, 2016
Signature of publisher
Editors Note |
N I LOU F E R V EN KATRA M A N
Sometimes
it takes a
journey to
gain new
perspective,
to remind
ourselves
that plenty of
awesomeness
still exists
OUR
MISSION
Luxor, Egypt
14
National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with
amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.
JOERI DE ROCKER/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
Notebook |
CONNECT
@natgeotravellerindia
@NGTIndia
facebook.com/natgeotraveller.india
2,65,025
Learning Holiday
Love food? Love travel? Learn how to make authentic guacamole in Mexico or
prepare a traditional Vietnamese dinner in Ho Chi Minh City with our pick of
delectable cooking holidays from around the world. See Web Exclusives>Experiences
Holiday Planning
At our February Meetup
in Mumbai, travel junkie
Yogi Shah, entrepreneur
Munni Hannant, and multigenerational holiday planner
Lisa Sadanah chatted with
NGT Indias Deputy Editor
Neha Dara about how to plan
a getaway. Some tips from the
experts and the audience.
Websites like Skyscanner
offer good deals on airfares
and hotels. Use apps like
Splittr to divide accounts on
the go for large groups.
love on the road
On a High
My love for trekking started when I scaled the Kumara
Parvatha peak in the Western Ghats. That feeling of
being on top of a mountain left a mark on my soul.
My second trek was to Nag Tibba in Uttarakhand. It
began my love affair with the Himalayas. I undertook
15 treks there in 2015, and planned my work to
include them in my schedule. On 28 December 2015
I stood 13,500 feet above sea level at the Darwa
Peak, my 15th summit of the year. Every journey was
challenging, but filled with beauty and the grace of
wonderful people of the mountains. Nitish Waila
16
mountain legend
Notebook |
CONNECT
NGT INDIA@WORK
THE FIND
Photographer Sanjay Austa captured this image of two teens jumping off
the bridge in Thun into the clear, blue waters of the River Aare, near
Interlaken in Switzerland. The river cuts through the centre of Thun, and
almost everybody gravitates to it during summer. Locals don swimsuits
and somersault, or swim, and surf on the waters gushing under the covered
wooden bridge called Untere Schleuse, or the upper floodgate. Catch the
photo story and experience the Swiss citys easy, relaxed vibe at
www.natgeotraveller.in
FOLLOW @NATGEOTRAVELLERINDIA ON INSTAGRAM
17
PHOTO COURTESY: FABIOLA MONTEIRO (FISHING), SANJAY AUSTA (BOYS), CHIRODEEP CHOUDHURI (PENDANT)
High Dive
CLA N RU L ES
Midnight
Memories
Aditya Daftary
is a Mumbai-based radiologist
who likes to wander. While in the
city, he spends more time on his
bicycle than in his car, and hopes
that soon family vacations will
also be the same.
18
Voices |
* Minimum requirements
1. You have to be an SA Specialist. IF not become one!
2. Your package is for minimum nine nights, with two provinces for leisure and four nights for MICE
3. Youre using a SATSA operator
JHB/E
10018770JB/
CR EW CU T
In Good Spirits
WHAT TAKES AN AGNOSTIC TO PLACES
OF THE PIOUS?
20
Kareena Gianani
Kareena Gianani is Associate
Editor at National Geographic
Traveller India. She loves
stumbling upon hole-in-the-wall
bookshops, old towns, and owl
souvenirs in all shapes and sizes.
Voices |
A dream destination
NAVIGATE
44
cinemascape
Visit locations where
Star Wars was filmed
46
sporting spirit
Finding Pataudi, Austen, and
undiluted tradition in Winchester
54
local flavour
Following an olives journey
from farm to table in Italy
22
CASH IN THE CASINO CHIPS AND EXPLORE ANOTHER SIDE OF MACAU BY MITALI PAREKH
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CU LTU R E
Tai Chi experts exhibit their skills at the Lou Lim Ieoc Garden (left); Newly betrothed couples (right) posing for pre-wedding photographs are
frequently spotted at scenic locations across Macau; Filled with a sweet custard, Portuguese egg tarts (bottom) are an iconic Macau treat. The
ones from Lord Stows bakery have a worldwide fan following.
CU LTU R E
An underwater fantasy installation (left) provides the perfect photo-op for guests at the City of Dreams resort; The lobby of MGM Macau is a
walk-through art gallery with all manner of works on display (top right); The Hac-sa beach at Coloane has plenty of water sports as well as gentle
waves, perfect for young children (bottom right).
26
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CU LTU R E
28
The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier (top) used to house a relic of the saint; A-Ma Cultural Village (bottom) on Coloane Island has a temple, palace, and
hiking trails nearby.
RESERVATIONS@SUMMERISLANDMALDIVES.COM
WWW.SUMMERISLANDMALDIVES.COM
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D E TOU R
Arcadian Interlude
LIVE LIKE A LOCAL OFF SIKKIMS TOURIST ROUTE BY SARITA SANTOSHINI
30
An hour-long trek from Kewzing through a forest filled with Buddhist stupas and little bridges across gushing streams (top) ends at the serene
Doling Monastery; Consider yourself lucky if you see the gorgeous fire-tailed myzorni (bottom).
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D E TOU R
There are a number of Buddhist monasteries (top left) around Kewzing; Many regional folk songs are dedicated to the great barbet (top right), a
popular bird in this area; Bon Farmhouse (bottom) is spread over six acres and offers guests insights into local practices like organic farming.
32
THE VITALS
Getting There Located in the southern
district of Sikkim, Kewzing is about 135
km/4 hr from Bagdogra Airport and
about 130 km/4 hr from New Jalpaiguri
railway station. It is about 10 km/15
min from Ravangla. Drive past Kewzing
Monastery to Bon Farmhouse, after
which a single house marks the start of
the village.
Stay Bon Farmhouse, run by
ornithologist and birding guide,
Chewang Bonpo, is a lovely place to
THE TREES
Vikhroli is slowly
emerging as the most
sought after and
greenest locations in
Mumbai today, thanks
to Godrejs pioneering
new project
WHAT WAS THE COMMUNICATION OBJECTIVE FOR
THIS CAMPAIGN?
WHAT WAS THE PRIMARY OBJECTIVE?
The launch of our landmark project The Trees
in Vikhroli.
WHAT WAS THE SECONDARY OBJECTIVE?
To make the launch of The Trees the biggest and most
successful launch ever witnessed in GPL through rigorous
marketing activities across mediums which would help
generate buzz in the market leading to an impact which
would sustain over the lifecycle of the project.
WHAT TYPE OF COMMUNICATION MEDIUMS WERE
USED FOR THE CAMPAIGN?
An integrated 360 degree campaign which communicates a fine blend of history, art and modernism
which are the core of this project. Another highlight is
the location. Vikhroli is an integral part of the Godrej
Groups growth story and we needed a campaign that
will not only highlight the location but also the historic
significance of Vikhroli and how it is emerging as one of
the finest addresses in Mumbai today. Aspects like the
green cover around Vikhroli, connectivity with all parts
of Mumbai, and last but not the least a well-conceived
project which will change the way homes are perceived
Area-wise :
Predominantly from Mumbai but would include the rich
all over India including NRIs looking to invest. We have
projects across Mumbai and there are chances that we
spread across the country.
The Mind game:
a. The connect here has to be with their lifestyle needs
b. People looking for homes that fulfil their needs and
are willing to pay a premium to find such homes
c. Should be of the international class and state of
the art
d. Status symbol to some extent
HOW HAS THE CAMPAIGN PERFORMED FOR YOU?
Area Sold: 4.55 Lakh Sq.ft.
Booking Value: 861 Cr.
Apartment Sold: 355 Apartments
WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE WAY FORWARD NOW?
Since most of our inventory has been sold in phase I, we
will now concentrate on the launch of Phase II of the
project. We will continue with the current positioning
and look forward to create more buzz about the next
Phase. And we will look for to the same response as we
received in the Phase I of the Trees.
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D E TOU R
A Stitch in Time
SEA-WEATHERED BUT WELL-PRESERVED, LUNENBURG IS A COASTAL GEM BY SONIA NAZARETH
36
With its well-preserved wooden houses, Lunenburg in Novo Scotia is good example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America.
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C I N E M ASCA PE
Mountain Movies
he first time I travelled to
Switzerland, I expected
a clichthe somewhat
underwhelming version of
what I had already seen on screen a
hundred times. I didnt expect that the
lakes, mountains, historic towns, and
picture-postcard Alpine villages would
astonish me. Everywhere I turned, I
saw mountains, yet the scene changed
each time, dramatically rendered in
different technicolour shades, depending
on the time of day or night. As I walked
my solitary way along various paths,
occasionally looking for a phantom hand
to hold on to, to share the romance of
the moment, memories of the movies
came flooding back.
Switzerland has always been much
more than a mere prop to cinema. A
dynamic canvas that has been adapted
to romance, drama, and tragedy,
38
SPIES, LOVERS, AND RENDEZVOUS IN THE TOWERING SWISS ALPS BY DIYA KOHLI
C I N E M ASCA PE
In Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol sang and danced amid mountains, meadows, and Alpine towns (left) and forever
twinned Switzerland with love in the Indian filmgoers imagination; As a result, towns like Saanen (right) and Gstaad became familiar stops on
the tourist itinerary.
40
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C I N E M ASCA PE
42
rendered even more vivid with my celluloid memories of this landscape and
all the magnificent dramas, romances,
spy thrillers, and edgy action films set
against this painters backdrop. And
when I returned home, changed by
the things I had seen and people I had
met, I felt a desire to go back, to see the
mountains and yellow-red trees one
more time. Back in Mumbai, I watched
Paolo Sorrentinos brilliant film Youth
(2015) in an old art deco theatre, and
PHOTO COURTESY: YASH RAJ FILMS PVT. LTD. (DILWALE DULHANIA LE JAYENGE), ROBERT HARDING/INDIAPICTURE (TOWN)
James Bond had a penchant for the Alps and certain locations have become synonymous with his antics. For instance, there is Contra Dam (top
left) in Ticino, from where 007 makes a daring jump in the opening scene of GoldenEye (1995); Sean Connery (top right) cuts a dashing figure
during the hair-raising Furka Pass chase in Goldfinger (1964); Posters of films shot in different spots in this picturesque country (bottom).
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C I N E M ASCA PE
44
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S PO RTI N G S PI R I T
Cricketing Country
FINDING PATAUDI, AUSTEN, AND UNDILUTED TRADITION IN WINCHESTER BY TITHIPARNA SENGUPTA
46
SLOVAKIA
IA
BANGLADE
ADESH
COLOMBIA
LESOTHO
DAVID LYONS/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
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S PO RTI N G S PI R I T
The 12th-century Hospital of St. Cross stands tall over meadows with tufty grass and a swirl of yellow buttercups (top); The ninth-century
St. Swithuns bridge across the Itchen River (bottom) is right in the centre of Winchester.
48
THE VITALS
Winchester is 110 km/1.5 hr southwest
of London and there are many train and
bus connections. Games are played at
the Winchester College grounds every
Saturday throughout the summer term.
Saturday afternoons are a good bet
for catching other local cricket clubs
like Hambledon and Chawton in action.
The Winchester Cathedral, its crypt
and treasury are open 9.30 a.m.-5 p.m,
Mon-Sat and 12.30-3 p.m. on Sunday.
AYON MANDAL
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BO O K EXTRACT
ifteen years ago, Rishad Saam Mehta was chasing the corporate
dream when his true calling came wrapped around a sandwich. The
newspaper holding his lunch carried a classified by an automobile
magazine, calling for new writers. He switched careers, fell in love with
fast cars and the open road, and turned travel writer. In his second book
Fast Cars & Fidgety Feet he writes about riding a ski-mobile in the Arctic,
cycling through Tuscan villages, discovering hidden legends, and wishing
the adventure never ends.
Schloss Neuschwanstein
the most evocative symbol of
nineteenth century Bavaria
towered over the village of
Hohenschwangau. Unfortunately
wed left behind the good
weather in the north, and as we
approached the castle, the Ferrari
growling like a horse champing
50
is Neuschwansteins tapering
steeples that inspired the castle
in the Walt Disney Pictures logo.
King Ludwig II of Bavaria (often
called Mad King Ludwig for his
eccentricities) commissioned
it as a personal refuge and also
as homage to Richard Wagner,
the German composer, who
wrote very tempestuous music.
His orchestral work, called The
Ride of the Valkyries, is a stormy
piece of classical music full of
trumpets, trombones, cymbals
and kettledrums, and is about
mythical creatures from Norse
mythology. That rainy day, with
thunder providing a constant
Neuschwanstein Castle dominates the landscape around the village of Hohenschwangau in southwest Bavaria, close to Germanys border with
Austria. It gets about 6,000 visitors a day and was the inspiration for Disneylands Sleeping Beauty Castle and Cinderellas Castle at Disney World.
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BO O K EXTRACT
52
Driving through
Tyrol, Austria,
the writer
chanced upon
medieval
Kitzbhel (top),
a popular ski
resort. Buskers
at Zellberg (bottom), a hiking
destination with
trails that wind
through forests
and meadows.
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
Liquid Gold
FOLLOWING AN OLIVES JOURNEY FROM FARM TO BOTTLE IN ANCONA, ITALY BY PRACHI JOSHI
54
IP CUISINES/INDIAPICTURE
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LO CA L F L AVOU R
56
In Le Marche, olives are harvested in October and November. Large nets are placed under the trees and long-handled, vibrating tongs are used to
comb the branches (top); The first pressing of the olives (bottom) yields high quality extra virgin olive oil.
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N ATI O N A L PA R K
Bandhavgarh National Park has a high density of tigers, and travellers have the opportunity to see them at fairly close quarters.
58
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N ATI O N A L PA R K
In addition to the rapidly multiplying wild boar population (top left), visitors to Bandhavgarh can see the Malabar pied hornbill (bottom left),
superbly camouflaged nightjars (bottom right) and plenty of spotted deer (top right).
60
ANIMALS
Heritance Kandalama
Heritance Ahungalla
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N ATI O N A L PA R K
62
Halfway up the hill to Bandhavgarh Fort lies a gigantic statue of a reclining Vishnu, called
Sheshaiya (top); The forts ramparts (bottom) are a great backdrop to the safaris in the park.
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THE SOUV EN I R
A Bite of Bengal
SIX THINGS TO BRING BACK TO YOUR PANTRY FROM A TRIP TO KOLKATA BY RUMELA BASU
KASUNDI
PANCH PHORON
JHARNA GHEE
NOLEN GUR
GONDHORAJ LIME
BANDEL CHEESE
64
NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN (KASUNDI), IP CUISINES/INDIAPICTURE (PANCH PHORON), DIVIYA MEHRA (JHARNA GHEE), MOHAMMED ANWARUL KABIR
CHOUDHURY/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (NOLEN GUR), CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI (GONDHORAJ LIME), UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP/GETTY IMAGES (BANDEL CHEESE)
Bengalis take great pride in their food, and culinary experiences feature on top of the must-do lists of
visitors to Kolkata. The regions cuisine delights fish-lovers, has an affinity for mustard, and offers a
delectable variety of vegetarian dishes. Not surprisingly, some of the best souvenirs to bring back from
Kolkata are those for the pantry.
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HER I TAGE
Temple Primates
Pura Dalem Agung, a shrine for Shiva, is the main temple in Balis Monkey Forest Sanctuary (top); Monkeys and their mossy, stone avatars are
found along forest paths (bottom).
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THE I N S I D E R
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THE I N S I D E R
70
Raan and Shea Parton (left), brothers and founders of L.A. menswear brand Apolis; downtown anchor Disney Concert Hall (right); The sunset at
Santa Monica is not a sight easily forgotten (bottom).
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THE I N S I D E R
72
Lunch at Silver Lakes Sqirl (left), known for its jam-topped brioche toast; Multicultural culinary destination Grand Central Market (right).
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ECOTOU R I S M
74
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ECOTOU R I S M
WILD CARDS
76
Jilling Estate,
Uttarakhand
Run by ex-fighter pilot and
tea planter Steve Lal and his
wife Parvati, Jilling Estate
is adored by hikers who
frequent the Kumaon. It
covers about 50 acres of oak
and rhododendron (pictured)
forests, and has only four
cottages. Peak experiences
include morning views of
the snow-cloaked Nanda
Devi mountain and bonfire
evenings in the company of
the lovely owners. Getting to
Jilling is a bit of a hike: Its
a two-kilometre uphill walk
from the closest roadhead,
but ponies can be organised
if required (jilling.net;
97587 55704, 94123 83348;
doubles from `5,000,
including all meals).
Wildernest, Goa
Encompassing 450 acres of
the Chorla Ghats, Wildernest
secures a crucial wildlife
corridor connecting Goas
Mhadei and Bhimgad
wildlife sanctuaries. All
cottages have spectacular
views, some of the roaring
Dudhsagar waterfalls,
others of langur families
monkeying around in the
trees outside. Accompany
the eco-resorts enthusiastic
naturalists on walks around
the property for sightings
of unusual birds, colourful
lizards, and if luck is with
you, the gorgeous Malabar
pit viper (pictured).
Wildernests other perks
include a swimming pool
with serene valley views,
and a kitchen that serves
top-notch Goan food (08323266911; www.wildernestgoa.com; doubles from
`5,900, includes food and
activities).
PHOTO COURTESY: KIPLING CAMP (DINING ROOM), ORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK (FLOWERS), DINODIA (BRIDGE), SUJATA GOEL (FROG),
ZEESHAN MIRZA/EPHOTOCORP/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (SNAKE)
Five Indian eco-resorts that are nestled inside vast private reserves BY GINA TANIK
SUMMER SPECIAL
100
thailand
Beaches, adventure, and culinary
delights served up in style
118
south korea
A temple stay dips into the
countrys Buddhist heritage
PAUL STEEL/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY
90
philippines
Four ways to navigate Bohols
dreamy islands
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SOU THEAST AS I A
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JEWEL
MALAYS IA
OF MALAYSIA
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SOU THEAST AS I A
IT ALL
STARTED WITH
an invitation to a palace. And now Im on
a trip to the End of the Earth.
Thats what locals once called Tanjung
Piai, a coastal nub of mangroves in Johor,
Malaysia, that marks the lowest reaches
of the lengthy Malay Peninsula and the
southernmost point of mainland Asia.
The spot is now a postage stampsize
national park with a circuit of boardwalks raised above eerily gnarled roots.
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MALAYS IA
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SOU THEAST AS I A
mistook me for a Discovery Channel host. Her husband, with elegant military bearing, explained they had come from Malaysia
to visit their eldest son, who was serving in the Indian Army. I
was about to tell them I lived in Malaysia as well, when a bodyguard in the next row ordered me to address them as Your Royal Highnesses. Not long after, I got an invitation to visit Raja
Zarith Sofiah and Tunku Ibrahim Ismail, then the princess and
prince of Johor. (In 2010, the prince inherited the title of sultan.)
I soon accepted and found myself being feted by the Oxfordeducated princess with servant-borne luncheons of jackfruit
curries in Johors Palace of the Rainbow Sands. And the people
think we eat a whole goat and lamb at one sitting! the prince
joked, nonetheless offering me an exclusive peek at stables of
polo ponies and a collection of customized luxury cars and vintage limos, to go with the private jet and yacht, playthings of
the worlds richest royals youve never heard of. For two years
running, I was also given a rare chance to tag along on Tunku
Ibrahims annual kembaraa Malay word evoking any sort of
journey, distant or near, spiritual or dutiful. During four ceremony-packed days each summer, this modern monarch took a
motorcycle trip around his steamy kingdom. A kilometre-long
caravan of fellow Harley bikers followed, rumbling through elephant crossings and descending on rural villages like a pack of
charitable Hells Angels. (The sultan recently switched to private
bus for his annual kembara.)
Now Im attempting my own kembarain a rented fourwheelerto find the Johor thats more unofficial.
Like most travellers, my point of entry is the sprawling state
capital of Johor Bahru. With 2,00,000 Johoreans making the
daily commute to wealthier Singapore, J.B., as its colloquially
called by all its denizens, has long suffered by comparison. Yet
this is where I get a first taste of Johors genuine flavour. Navigating downtowns warren of malls on a muggy June night, I
meet one of many renegade Singaporeans who abandon their
celebrated food courts to seek out less mass-produced fare
across the border. Mild-mannered, middle-aged blogger Tony
Boey, who calls himself Johorkaki, eagerly guides me down
through an area called Meldrum Walk to back alleys lined with
traditional hawkers. Retired from the Singapore civil service, he
has been leading food tours since 2012.
Hopping between wheeled stands with undisguised glee, my
guide insists I savour a Teochew oyster cake made with eggs,
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Mist veils Johors typically bountiful landscape. Facing page: Roasted pig and red bean cakes (top left) displayed for a festival in the capital of
Johor Bahru; young bomo (shaman) apprentices readying for the kuda kepang, a traditional Javanese dance (top right); the edible custard-like
interior of a durian (bottom right); an Indian-Malaysian shopkeeper in Johor Bahrus Old Town (bottom left).
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dark soy sauce, and tapioca flour; confetti-thin noodles in anchovy broth; and hyper-fresh stingray grilled in banana leaf
and slathered with fiery sambal sauce. Can you top that? Boey
says, even as he leaps up for something else. You havent been in
Johor until youve had its not-to-miss dishes! He presents me
with a heaped pyramid of biryani gam, a lamb pilaf covered in
a thin tent of omelette, then Johor laksa, a tamarind-tinged fish
stew with spaghetti. Its said the great Sultan Abu Bakar created
the dish himself, as he was always bringing back the best from
Europe, he explains. Feasts fit for a king come cheap here.
As mixed as the cuisine, downtown J.B. is a hotpot of peopleseven by multi-ethnic Malaysias standards. Buddhist,
Sikh, and Hindu temples line a main street. An Old Town
of mouldering, pastel-coloured buildings finds Chinese bun
makers, grandly moustachioed Indian barbers, and Malay bohemian types peacefully coexisting. Locals may identify themselves
as Bugi, Javanese, Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Hakka, Tamil,
Keralan, and Yemeni; or as Sufi, Taoist, Buddhist, Confucian,
animist, Christian, or Hindu.
Founded in 1855, the city burgeoned into a showplace for the
Anglophile ambitions of the flamboyant Abu Bakar when he became the sultan in 1886. So an assembly of monuments more
Victorian than Asian command bluffs overlooking the Johor
Strait, built to impress. The gleaming white Sultan Abu Bakar
State Mosque affords sunset views from its minarets (which
were designed to look like Victorian clock towers), and glimpses
of solitary worshippers in its vast spaces below. But I find Johors
main palace, a gracefully colonial compound, closed for renovation (though it has since reopened).
Everything has to be perfect for the coronation, explains a
court curator, reminding me that Sultan Ibrahims official installation, in the works for years, promises to be one of Asias most
resplendent. (The sultans coronation was held in March 2015.)
Instead, he points me to a lesser known site for communing with Johors past. I get lost on winding roads before I come
upon the royal graveyards, hidden behind one of J.B.s forested
hills. The resting places of recent rulers are marked by marble
mausoleums, but the fluted headstones of the dynastic founders,
etched in Arabic script, have a greater authority and beauty.
To delve into more history, I drive an hour and a half northeast to Johor Lama (old Johor). Up a thickly forested hill, I get
to an A-framed museum that enjoys a panorama of the wide,
sun-dappled Johor River. Constructed in 1540, the fort that
once stood here lasted until the Portuguese destroyed it in 1587.
Only a moss-covered square remains, like some giant discarded
Lego piece.
THIS WHETS MY APPETITE for a drive up the rest of Johors
east coast. The route along the way is brilliantly green but a kind
of tropical trompe loeil: Palm oil plantations in endless rows of
stunted, leafy trees create an unpeopled landscape both wild and
ordered.
I arrive at Mersing, a quiet port townfull of backpacker
innsthat serves as a departure point for boats to Johors six
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A confection of Western and Moorish styles, the Sultan Ibrahim mosque was built in the Royal City of Muar in 1930. Its riverside grounds
feature an antique sundial for determining prayer times and also provide an ideal spot for quiet conversations.
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Orientation
Visas
Seasons
Stay
Mersing
Pulau Besar
Gunung Ledang
National Park
Pulau Tinggi
Johor
Endau-Kota Tinggi
Wildlife Reserve
Muar
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Gunung Belumut
Recreational
Forest
St
ra
it
of
M
ala
cca
Johor Lama
Johor Bahru
Pulau Kukup N.P.
Getting There
Pulau Rawa
Endau Rompin
National Park
Kukup
Tanjung Piai
National Park
20
0 mi
0 km
20
SINGAPORE
trait
ore S
gap
Sin
Johor
Strait
Johor River
A
Johor, Malaysia
2nd Proof
Traveler
2/3/15
Eat
In Johor Bahrus
Meldrum Walk area,
Mamak stalls offer spicy
mutton stew with rice.
Indian joints feature
flaky, grilled roti canai.
Kedai Kopi Kin Wah,
in the Old Town draws
morning crowds for its
authentic breakfast,
which includes kaya
toast (bread with
a coconut and egg
spread) (8, Jalan Trus,
Bandar Johor Bahru,
80000 Johor Bahru).
The menu at the Myra
Bistro, in the M Suites
Hotel, lists some
hard-to-find Johorean
specialties (16, Jalan
Bertingkat Skudai,
80200 Johor Bahru).
In the fishing village of
Kukup, fish restaurants
serve shrimp straight
from the sea. Outside
Kluang, Zenxin Organic
Park whips up dragon
fruit shakes and platters
of steamed veggies
from its farm (Plots 47A
& 47B, Batu 9, Jalan
Batu Pahat, Kluang,
80600 Johor Bahru).
Atlas
VIETNAM
South China
Sea
MALAYSIA
MALAYSIA
Kuala Lumpur
Johor
SINGAPORE
INTERNATIONAL MAPPING
THE GUIDE
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The
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over entire trees. The buzzing of the insects was the only sound
we heard besides our boats motor in the otherwise quiet night.
It left me feeling a great sense of calm. (Abatan River Life Tour,
www.riverlife.ph; daily 7.30 p.m.; PHP1,905/`2,713 per boat, which
accommodates up to five people. The ride lasts about an hour.
Visitors are provided a life vestnothing else is needed. Those
wanting to get closer to the fireflies can hire kayaks and paddle
down the river. Dont bother with a camera as its hard to
capture the fireflies unless youve got some professional
equipment. Instead, just open your eyes and take in the glittering
sights around you.)
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PER-ANDRE HOFFMANN/PICTURE PRESS/GETTY IMAGES (HILLS), RISHAD SAAM MEHTA (ZIP BIKE)
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THE GUIDE
Orientation
Getting There
Getting Around
Seasons
Bohol province is
located in the Central
Visayas region of the
Philippines, southeast
of Manila. The province
includes Bohol Island
and over 70 smaller
islands around it.
Cars and motorcycles are available on rent in Bohol and there are tricycles (local
taxi-scooters) for those who dont want to drive. Taxis can also be arranged
through your accommodation.
LUXURY
Henann Resort has a prime spot on Panglao Islands pristine Alona Beach. Its
hard to choose between spending the day soaking in one of the resorts exquisite
pools or the cerulean seas by the beach (+63-380502-9141; henann.com/bohol/
henannalonabeach; doubles from PHP5,475/`7,875).
Eskaya Resort is known for its luxurious Handuraw Spa where guests can sign
up for traditional Asian treatments while enjoying views of the Bohol Sea (+6325763051/82; www.eskayaresort.com; doubles from PHP16,384/`23,306).
Stay
COMFORT
Harmony Hotel, a short walk from Alona Beach, has family rooms and apartments
that are great for larger groups (+63 38 502 82 89; www.harmonyhotelsite.com;
doubles from PHP2,637/`3,751).
Alona Kew White Beach has clean rooms and suites that are a pocket-friendly
base to enjoy Alonas white sandy beaches (+63-47-252-9978; www.alona-kew.
com; doubles from PHP4,495/`6,395).
BUDGET
Citadel Alona Inn has clean, functional rooms, some with self-catering facilities
that will appeal to those on lower budgets (+63 38 502 9424; www.citadelalona.
com; doubles from PHP798/`1,136).
98
Visas
Indian passport holders
with valid American,
Japanese, Australian,
Canadian, Schengen,
Singaporean, or UK
visas can gain visafree entry to the
Philippines. Others
must apply for a visa
in person or through a
representative at the
Philippines Embassy
in New Delhi (01126110152; newdelhipe.
dfa.gov.ph) or consular
centres in Chennai,
Mumbai, or Kolkata.
Visa application forms
and a list of required
paperwork is available
on the website. A 14day tourist visa costs
`2,840 and applications
must be submitted
two weeks before the
date of travel though
it is usually issued
much sooner.
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Its easy to get hooked on Thailand. After all, Southeast Asias most popular
tourist destination is chock-full of gorgeous stupas, amazing street food, and
see-it-to-believe-it islands with white sand beaches usually only found on postcards
or screensavers. Best of all, not only is Bangkok just four hours by air from major
Indian cities, it is also one of the few countries where Indian passport holders can
get a visa on arrival. Whether youre a family plotting your first visit or are
returning for the nth time, this five-point planner will help in planning the best
Thai experiences and creating an itinerary.
BY MARGOT BIGG
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NORTH VS SOUTH
Visitors take in a beautiful sunrise from the Yun Lai Viewpoint (top) in northern Thailands Mae Hong Song Province; Chiang Mais Saturday Night
Market (bottom) is a colourful array of stalls selling souvenirs and local food.
Why go?
Seasons
Northern Thailand has three major seasons. The cooler,
generally dry winter starts in November and carries on
through February, with temperatures in the early or mid-20s.
Things start to heat up by the time March rolls around. The
weather then stays in the late 20s well into May, before the
monsoon rains arrive and keep the area steadily drenched
through October.
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Dont Miss
If youre headed to northern Thailand, chances are youll make
your first stop in Chiang Mai, the countrys second-largest city
and epicentre of the regions cultural and economic life. Try
to time your visit to coincide with the Saturday Night Market,
when the citys central Walking Street fills up with street
vendors hawking everything from rice paper lanterns to fried
crickets. And if you happen to be in town during April, join in
the annual Songkran festivities, in which participants ring in
the New Year by engaging in playful water fights.
NORTHERN THAILAND
THAILAN D
The limestone outcrops around Railay Beach, Krabi, provide the perfect spot for rock climbing for beginners as well as seasoned climbers;
Walking on hot coals (bottom) is among the many austerities practiced at Phukets Vegetarian Festival.
SOUTHERN THAILAND
Why go?
Dont Miss
The veg set and those with a taste for the bizarre will enjoy
Phukets Vegetarian Festival, held over nine days in October.
While this annual celebration with its roots in the Thai Chinese
community is a godsend for vegetarians thanks to the numerous
stalls featuring fish-free delights, the focus is not on food. The
festival name comes from the fact that participants abstain
from eating meat during this period for spiritual reasons. The
highlights include processions and ceremonies in which believers
practice austerities ranging from fire-walking to facial piercing.
Seasons
Southern Thailand has two seasons, dry and wet, but
temperatures are consistently warm throughout the year,
usually hovering around the mid-20s. The rainy season starts
in May and continues through November. The west coast on
the Andaman Sea gets most of its rainfall during this time,
while the eastern Gulf of Thailand coast is at its rainiest from
September through December.
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BEN HORTON/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (ROCK CLIMBING), LIM YAOHUI/DEMOTIX/CORBIS NEWS/CORBIS/IMAGE LIBRARY (FIRE WALKING)
Thailand might be a small country, but the landscape and cultural diversity between the north and south
is significant. From the historical temples of Chiang Mai to the beaches along the Gulf of Thailand, there is
plenty to experience. This quick primer helps to align your interests with the countrys geography.
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THE BANGKOK
NOODLE STORY
Visitors to Thailand, whether novices or die-hard foodies, cannot miss one of the countrys most ubiquitous
dishes as they negotiate the countrys varied foodscape. Pad thai, that beloved local fry-up of flat noodles,
veggies, tofu, and/or meat, can be found on most menus in restaurants as well as at street food carts
throughout Bangkok. However, dont think of this as the definitive Thai noodle experience for there are plenty
of wonderful dishes that merit more than a taste. Here are a few noodle favourites and where to find them.
KHAO SOI
Among the most popular Northern Thai dishes, the Burmeseinfluenced khao soi (from the coconut based ohn no khao sw)
is a delicious departure from the fried, seafood-heavy noodle
dishes popular in central and southern Thailand. This rich dish
is made of fried, crisp egg noodles, mustard greens, shallots,
Khao soi and
condiments.
PAD SEE EW
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SUKI HAENG
STEVE VIDLER/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
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Koh Chang
and anyone with a beach party bucket list wont want to miss
this. Even travellers whod rather sleep than dance at night are
likely to find plenty of opportunities for quiet navel-gazing.
Koh Samui
One of the largest islands in Thailand, Koh Samui has been
a tourism hotspot for decades. What started out as a haven
for hippie backpackers, is now filled with lots of large hotels
and glamorous resorts. In fact, it can get quite crowded in
peak season, particularly in Chaweng. It is the islands most
popular beach, lined with posh restaurants as well as casual
seafood barbecues. However, once you get away from the main
commercial areas, you can easily find gorgeous beaches, quiet
rental bungalows, and low-key eateries.
GULF OF THAILAND
THAILAN D
ANDAMAN COAST
Popular with families and older couples, Koh Lanta attracts
travellers who prefer rest and relaxation over all-night parties.
Although its got all the requisite white sand beaches and
snorkelling opportunities that tourists love, the atmosphere
is low-key and less commercial than some of Thailands
more popular holiday spots. It is a good place to while away
the days swimming, getting massages, and sampling freshly
caught seafood. Getting to the island requires some dedication
howevertravellers must first fly to Krabi and then take a ferry
to the island.
Koh Lipe
With no cars and only a few motorcycle taxis, romantic Koh
Lipe is ideal for a quiet and intimate holiday. The waters off
this little island are shallow and crystalline, making it ideal
for parents with young children or non-swimmers who want
to take a dip safely. For the same reasons, its popular with
divers and snorkellers, and its nearby reefs are known for their
abundance of aquatic life.
Phuket
Connected by a bridge to mainland peninsular Thailand,
PhuketThailands largest islandis suitable for travellers
who value luxury; some of the countrys most opulent resorts
are situated here. Phuket is popular with package tourists and
has plenty to offer families, but certain areas can get loud and
crowded during peak tourist season (November-March).
Phuket is well known for its vibrant nightlife (top) that includes
everything from cabaret shows to live bands and performances by
international DJs; Swimming in Koh Lipes shallow, crystal-clear
waters (bottom) is pure joy.
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AN OUTDOOR
ADVENTURELAND
Kayaking tours are a
popular way to explore
the mangrove forests and
limestone caves in the
northern part of Krabi.
108
THAILAN D
From climbing limestone cliffs along the Andaman
coast to trekking in the hill villages in northernmost
Thailand, there is plenty on offer for outdoor
enthusiasts and those who thrive on adventure. Here
are a few of Thailands top outdoor activities and
the best places to experience them.
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TEMPLE RUN
Pattayas spectacular Sanctuary of Truth is carved in wood (left); Chiang Mais Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (right) was founded in the 14th century.
110
Rising up from the west banks of the Chao Phraya River, Wat
Arun is also known as the Temple of Dawn. It is celebrated for
its gorgeous architecture, particularly the central prang (tower),
which is decorated with intricate porcelain, glass patterns, and
statuary. It is most beautiful at dusk, when the sun sets behind
the structure, and at night when it is lit upbest viewed at that
hour from the opposite side of the river.
Thousands of Buddhist temples or wats can be found throughout Thailand, as nearly 95 per cent of the
population is Buddhist. From simple shrines to elaborate edifices with gilded towers and giant Buddha
statues, these temples are repositories of history, learning, and faith. Discover some of the most beautiful
structures in the country through this guide.
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Creatures
Great and Small
By Rumela Basu
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From meeting Kai Kai the panda to Amigo the Amazon parrot
and Woody the orangutan, a visit to Singapore Zoo alters
perceptions and triggers joy
S IN GAPO RE
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Kai Kai and Jia Jia, the giant panda pair, came to Singapore as a gift from China in 2010 and now live in the 1500-sq-metre temperature-controlled
biodome in the River Safari. They have distinct personalitieswhile Kai Kai is mostly out and about, Jia Jia is shy and prefers the coziness of her den.
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S IN GAPO RE
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116
a branch. But its the ring-tailed lemurs that are most intriguing,
even snobbish and indifferent. One grooms itself beside the
walkway, tail splayed, another stares at us with wide beady eyes
from its perch.
Over lunch, I get an opportunity to voice some of my concerns
about zoos to Roopali Raghavan, whos part of the parks Conservation & Research department and looks after animal welfare.
She assures me great care is taken to reduce the stress on the resident animals, and small changes are regularly introduced into
their enclosures to keep them engaged. Why have zoos at all, I
want to know. She explains that they serve an important purpose, enabling conservationists to study the animals closely so
they can better protect populations in the wild. Zoos often house
assurance colonies: modern-day Noahs arks that ensure there
is a healthy population of endangered animals that can be reintroduced to the wild in case the original population dwindles.
The conversation reveals another important fact: The wild
is not always the best place for animals, especially in Southeast
Asia where trade in exotic animals is rampant. Green spots in
the world are also reducing steadily, increasing animal-human
conflict. As I crane my neck out of the boat during the River
Safari cruise sometime later, I see a tapir snooze under a tree. I
realise that this magnificent animalone that Ive gazed at on
television time and againis safe here. It is tangible evidence of
the richness of life that needs protection.
The next evening Im back to experience the Night Safari, adjacent to the zoo. Our buggy winds through open enclosures that
house striped hyena, oryx, and red river hogs. Bathed in a dull
While some of the zoos 39 primate species, like the black and white colobus monkey (left), have islands separated by moats in a zone, others, like
the territorial baboons (right) have their own separate enclosure. Wild grasses, palms, and rocky structures help recreate their native habitat.
S IN GAPO RE
Malayan tapirs, the largest of the species, are lesser-known nocturnal animals whose native homes in the Southeast Asian jungles are under
threat. During the Night Safaris tram tours, visitors can see these monochrome herbivores at close range from within the confines of the buggy.
THE VITALS
SINGAPORE ZOO provides a bus service from select
locations in Singapore (round trip adults SGD10/`488,
children SGD5/`244). The zoos website (www.zoo.com.
sg) has detailed instructions on how to reach it using
other public transport. Hours 8.30 a.m.-6 p.m. daily (last
entry 5.30 p.m.). Entry fee Adults SGD32/`1,560, children
3-12 years SGD21/`1,024. Discounts of up to 30 per cent
possible on advance online purchases. Those with young
children may like to purchase tickets for the hop-on
hop-off guided tram tour (adults SGD5/`244; children
SGD3/`146). Need to Know The zoo website also has
discounted Park Hopper tickets offering combinations
depending on the other Wildlife Reserves Singapore parks
you want to visit. They are valid for seven days. Bring The
weather is unpredictable; carry an umbrella or raincoat.
Eat There are food outlets located throughout the zoo.
NIGHT SAFARI is adjacent to the zoo. Hours 7.15 p.m.midnight (last entry 11.15 p.m.). Entry fee Adults
SGD42/`2,048, children SGD28/`1,365. Discounts on
advance online purchases (www.nightsafari.com.sg).
RIVER SAFARI is in the same area as the Zoo and Night
Safari. It has a biodome with pandas, and boat safaris
(adults SGD5/`244, children SGD3/`146). Hours 10 a.m.7 p.m. (last entry 6.30 p.m.). Entry fee Adults SGD28/
`1,367, children SGD18/`880. (www.riversafari.com.sg).
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In a Monk's Shoes
A temple stay in Korea dips into the countrys Buddhist
heritage and questions the desires of normal life
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sits up, she brings her hands together at her chest in a Korean
namaste (hapjang), which symbolises the unification of the
Buddhas mind (right hand) with hers (left hand). Then shes on
her feet again, and presses the hapjang to her forehead and to her
chest to complete one prostration. Hally performs this thrice, in
reverence to the Buddha, the dharma, and the sangha (order of
monks). Then, she pulls three large pillows off a stack and hands
them to us, one by one, so she can take us through the steps. We
practice our bows on the left side of the hall, leaving the rest of
the space for the monks. Monks may meditate any time of day
and some choose to do so in this hall. They kneel before the tiered
altar, the upper three levels of which form the sumidan. The
word is derived from Mt. Sumeru, the central mountain of the
world according to Buddhist scriptures. The tiers that represent
it are adorned with elaborately carved figures of creatures like
tigers, turtles, or fish, that would reside on the mountain.
The next morning, during the 5 a.m. yebul ceremony, we start
our day with 108 prostrations. We then walk through the temple
museum, full of amazing Buddhist art and antiques too delicate
to be photographed. There are engravings on traditional hanji
paper, an intricately carved stone bell with a dragon-shaped
clasp, and stunning paintings of guardian spirits whose forms
combine human and animal features.
SOUTH
KO RE A
FEAST DAYS
On some days, the temple hosts special celebrations with
music, chanting, and free meals for the poor.
The Buddhas birthday: 14 May, 2016 (the date changes every
year according to the Chinese lunar calendar)
Day of prayer for ancestors: 15 July
New Year: 22 December
123
Nestled amid pine forests, ancient hardwoods, and a pristine river, Jikjisa is one of the most picturesque of South Koreas temples and its
position affords visitors excellent trekking opportunities.
124
THE VITALS
Getting There There are direct flights from New Delhi/Mumbai
to Seoul on most days of the week. From Seoul, there are several
daily trains to Gimcheon (adults from KRW16,400/`915, children
from KRW8,200/`450; duration 3 hr). Frequent buses connect
the two cities (adults from KRW14,100/`785, children from
KRW7,050/`390; duration 4-4.5 hr).
Visa The application form for tourist visas is available online
(www.vfsglobal.com/korea/india). The completed form and
supporting documents have to be submitted at the consulates
in Mumbai or Chennai, or at VFS offices in New Delhi and Kolkata
(`2,400 for a single entry tourist visa, plus `860 VFS charges.)
More about Temple Stays Temple stay programmes are
offered across South Korea, but each location has a different
programme. Some include classes such as traditional envelope
making or cloth dyeing. Programmes at different temples may
run through the week, only on weekends, or on select weekends
only. The 2-day/1-night stay at Jikjisa costs KRW50,000/`2,860
per person. To sign up, fill the selected temples form on the
temple stay website, but do make sure you have a confirmation
email before you pack your bags. You may have to call the listed
number to follow up. Heavy make-up and outlandish clothes are
not allowed at temples, and theres a complete ban on cigarettes
and alcohol (www.jikjisa.or.kr).
JOURNEYS
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Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana
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Celebrating its
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view across the otherwise flat landscape that defines most of this
African nation.
This place has been occupied by humans for more than
1,00,000 years, says my guide. The indigenous San people
believe it brings positive energy to all who come here. Tsodilos
stony mounds, a World Heritage Site since 2001, also contain
one of the highest concentrations of ancient rock art on Earth,
BOTSWAN A
Ancient rock art draws visitors to Botswanas other World Heritage Site, the
Tsodilo Hills, dubbed the Louvre of the Desert.
believe their creator lowered all creatures from the sky. Indentations that resemble the cloven hooves of a kudu antelope and the
outline of a human body mark the spot in the rockscape.
People came first, followed by the animals to help them
survive. It was a time when humans and animals were all equal,
he says. Today, this venerated place is looked after by the Tsodilo
Community Trust, an innovative partnership between San
villagers and the Botswana government.
The San are Tsodilos rightful guardians and beneficiaries,
says Charles Motshubi, a community development organizer
and the Tsodilo project manager. Xhao nods. It is we who know
the ancient stories of this land.
That night the wind comes up, howling along the prehistoric
cliffs adorned with depictions painted in red, of rhinos, eland,
and elephants.
INTO THE WILD
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ANGOLA
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N.P.
Francistown
B O T S W A N A
CENTRAL
KALAHARI
GAME RESERVE
KHUTSE
GAME RES.
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S
E
TROPIC OF CAPRICORN
Mo
lo
po
AFRICA
100 mi
NORTHERN TULI
GAME RES.
Mashatu
Game Res.
po
po
m
Li
Gaborone
D
KGALAGADI
TRANSFRONTIER
PARK
Bulawayo
Makgadikgadi
Pans
Ghanzi
K
ZIMBABWE
NXAI
PAN N.P.
Maun
MAKGADIKGADI
PANS NATIONAL PARK
NAMIBIA
Livingstone
Victoria Falls
SOUTH AFRICA
100 km
130
AREA
ENLARGED
mopane and acacia trees has become a wild dog stronghold. The
first such sanctuary created by local communities in southern
Africa, it was established in the 1960s.
Today, safari lodges such as &Beyonds Sandibe Okavango
Lodge offer a base camp for forays into Moremi.
Conservation is at the heart of all we do, &Beyonds CEO,
Joss Kent, tells me. His company, in partnership with another,
Great Plains Conservation, and the Botswana government,
has embarked on its most ambitious project, Rhinos Without
Borders, to save another iconic animal now tottering on
the edge of extinction; a rhino horn can fetch more than
$200,000 on the black market. (Its supposed medicinal
power has been debunked by science.) Other safari outfitters,
including Wilderness Safaris and Abercrombie & Kent, also
are riding to the rescue in a huge effort to relocate rhinos from
adjacent countries where poaching has skyrocketed in recent
years. Botswana has become the continents safest haven,
a modern-day ark for Africas threatened species. Sandibe
Okavango Safari Lodge even resembles an ark, albeit of an
eco-luxury kind. Elephants feed on palm trees beside guest
rooms, baboons scamper across the lodge veranda, and nearby
lions call to each other in deep throaty rumbles.
KALAHARI SALT FLATS
THE MAKGADIKGADI
Among the most dramatic sights visible on satellite images of
Africa is a cluster of huge irregular oblongs in the continents
southern reaches. Zoom in closer and the Makgadikgadi Pans,
one of the worlds largest complexes of salt flats, come into
focus. Think barren, endless, emptyyet anything but lifeless.
In this panscape of sometimes searing heat by day and cool,
breezy nights, the footprints of zebras, giraffes, ostriches, and
NG MAPS (MAP); PARKS DATA FROM THE WORLD DATABASE ON PROTECTED AREAS (WDPA )
Horseback riders pass a group of zebras in late afternoon on the Makgadikgadi salt pans, the remains of an ancient lake.
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An aerial view of a herd of wildebeest thundering across the stark Makgadikgadi salt pans.
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TULI BLOCK
Tuli Block, a ribbon of land in the countrys far east, is a place
where people and wilderness intermingle to the benefit of both.
Its home to the Mashatu Game Reserve, one of the largest
private protected areas in Africas south, and is serviced by
locally owned tour operators and lodges, from rustic to luxury.
Tuli also is the sole place in Botswana where you can go on a
mountain biking safari in a designated game reserve. The
master of bush cycling is Johan Rakumako, who helped map
the Tour de Tuli, a five-day off-the-grid tour using elephant
migration routes. Who knew that pachyderms create wellgroomed mountain bike trails?
To see a wild elephant from a mountain bike is an experience,
Rakumako enthuses as we set out for a day of riding through the
remote Limpopo River Valley, where the borders of Botswana,
Zimbabwe, and South Africa intersect. This part of the country
stands in stark contrast to the rest of Botswanacraggy
escarpments and sandstone ridges replace the flat plains, while
waterfalls tumble and massive nyala berry trees create vistas of
resplendent greenery.
The euphoria of a memorable journey washes over me. I
know Rakumako, Monnaphutego, Kgaga, Xhao, and others Ive
met are creating a future for themselves and for some of the
most endangered wildlife on Earth. As we ride along elephant
highways, through dry riverbeds and across open fields, flocks
of helmeted guinea fowl squawk, and browsing eland, herds of
impala, and noble-looking giraffes watch us go by.
National Geographic Traveler (U.S.) Editor-at-Large Costas Christ
writes and speaks about sustainable tourism. aaron huey is a
Seattle-based photojournalist and documentary photographer.
other desert-adapted creatures crisscross the otherworldly terrain, reminding me of astronauts footsteps left on the moon.
While the tracks appear to wander aimlessly, in fact they weave a
story: It is here that one of Africas epic migrations unfolds each
year, as huge herds of zebras search for the mineral-rich grasses
that flourish in the surrounding area. The zebras are dwarfed in
number only by the hundreds of thousands of greater and lesser flamingos that come to nest in the remote pans. Pause long
enough to look and listen, and a bounty of life materializes.
We want to bring simplicity back to going on safari, and
for us that means being in wide, open spaces on horseback,
explains David Foot, who set up Ride Botswana with his wife,
Robyn. Their mission is to offer travellers a chance to experience
an African safari from the old days, before the advent of bush
planes and 4x4s.
From San Camp, a collection of six walk-in tents adorned with
antiques and artefacts, we set out on horses, walking and then
galloping toward a faraway treeline. In the 11,910 square kilometres of the Makgadikgadi that surround us, I do not see one
building, cell tower, or paved road in any direction.
As sunset approaches, we stop for gin-and-tonic sundowners
as herds of wildebeest stare at us curiously. With no engine
running and no exhaust fumes spewing, we merge with the
animal kingdom.
Ive heard there are seven-star hotels somewhere in the
world, says Robyn. Sweeping her arm toward the vast sky above
us, she declares, This is a million-star hotel.
Later that evening, I meet Super, San Camps senior guide,
who has spent 26 years exploring the pans. We head out for a
night drive and soon spot the rarest of the four hyena species,
the brown hyena, as well as another rare night wanderer, the
reclusive aardwolf. When a huge southern African porcupine
wanders by, I know my night is complete.
BOTSWAN A
Frolicking pups bode well for the population of the highly endangered African wild dogs (bottom). Moremi Game
Reserve is one of their last homes; A cottage at Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge (top).
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I N TO THE WI L D
OUR PICKS
2 WOVEN WARES
Traditional Botswana baskets
are renowned for their tight
weaving and patterns; a single
basket can take weeks to
complete. Some of the best,
fashioned with young fronds
of the mokolwane palm, can
be found in the craft shops of
Maun, a safari hub.
4 STARRY NIGHT
Evenings in Botswana bring
a cosmic show. Guests at
San Camp, by the salt flats of
Makgadikgadi Pans National
Park, are treated to the Milky
Way splashed across a sky free
of light pollution. Visitors to the
private Mashatu Game Reserve
can join night drives, which
search for nocturnal animals
such as caracals.
5 ART HAVEN
136
8 NATIONAL PRIDE
On September 30, 2016,
Botswana will mark 50 years
of independence from Britain
with grand festivities, including
cultural events, processions,
and arts performances.
6 BUSH TELEGRAPH
Long before GPS there
was Chapmans Baobab, a
Pachyderm Party
One of Africas largest concentrations of elephants lives in
Chobe National Park, migrating seasonally between the parks
floodplains and salt pans. For prime elephant-viewing, visit the
Chobe River area (above) in October. Guests at the Chobe Game
Lodge gather on the lodge boardwalk for sightings of these
largest of land animals, along with zebras and other wildlife.
KARIN DUTHIE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (BASKET), ANN AND STEVE TOON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (ELEPHANTS)
1 DESERT IS LAND
Botswana is home to geological
oddities, including an outcrop
of boulders and baobabs in a
sea of sand. Known as Lekhubu,
or Kubu Island, it once sat
in a vast lake that covered
much of the Makgadikgadi
salt pans. Locals watch over
the site, where they also run a
campground for travellers.
BOTSWAN A
THE GUIDE
Getting There
Visas
Seasons
A hippopotamus is a
common sight in the
Okavango delta.
Other Sights
Atlas
l Botswanas Jwaneng
Mine is the worlds
richest diamond mine
in value, with up to
15 million carats dug
annually.
l One of Earths top
concentrations of
rock artmore than
4,500 paintingslies
in Botswanas Kalahari
Desert in Tsodilo.
l Botswanas currency
is the pula, also a local
word for rain, which
is critical to this dry
nations survival.
Orientation
137
GET GOING
143
active holiday
Four ways to feel the thunder
of Niagara Falls
ADVENTURE
138
adventure
Tramping through New Zealands
lake shores and alpine peaks
138
The mountains
of New
Zealands
Southern Alps
frame jawdropping views
of Lake Te Anau,
the largest
freshwater lake
in Australasia.
DAVID WALL/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE
ATLAS
Kepler
Track,
Fiordland,
New Zealand
Auckland
NEW ZEALAND
Christchurch
Kepler Track,
Fiordland
One-third of
New Zealands
land is reserved
solely to create
national parks
and nature
reserves, and for
people to enjoy
the outdoors
and promote
ecotourism.
MODERATE
DEMANDING
Zealands Great Walks. They are basic but homely accommodations with heating, a common area, kitchen,
bunk beds, and toilets. Backpackers have to carry their
own sleeping bags and essentials like utensils, matches, and food. Drinking water and cooking gas are available, but there is nothing for purchase. At Luxmore
Hut, I met Pat, a passionate and endearing resident
ranger who gave us a tour of the premises while sternly reeling off the dos and donts. On his suggestion, I
hiked 15 minutes to the nearby Luxmore Caves. They
are a great place to applaud the handiwork of time
while admiring fantastic stalactites and stalagmites.
The next morning, a forecast of blue skies meant
clear views around the lakes. The weather played an
important role on the second day of the Kepler Track
because the trail is entirely above the bushline and
boasts unobstructed views of sweeping sierras in all
directions. I was ready to be blown away and I literally
was. Braving wind speeds of 60 kmph, with the snowcapped Murchison Mountains ahead, the south fiord
of Lake Te Anau on my right, and grassy slopes on
my left, I was on top of the world. The 14.6-kilometre
scenic alpine crossing from Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn
Hut has two emergency shelters, the Forest Burn
Saddle and Hanging Valley. The restrooms with jawdropping views are possibly the most panoramic
EASY
139
N EW Z EA L A N D
140
Kepler Track
features the
highlights of
Fiordland, from
snowy mountains to sapphire
lakes (top);
Alpine parrots
or keas thrive
in this area
(bottom).
PHOTO COURTESY : TOURISM NEW ZEALAND (LAKE), BRADEN GUNEM/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (PARROT)
Get Going |
Dont forget
your flashlight
when exploring
the cathedrallike Luxmore
Caves (top left);
Every hut has
knowledgeable
resident rangers
who share
insights about
flora, fauna, and
conservation
efforts (top
right);The
trail is dotted
with bridges
spanning
waterfalls and
rivers (bottom).
141
TRUPTI DEVDAS NAYAK (CAVE & RANGER), PICTURES COLOUR LIBRARY/TRAVEL PICTURES/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (BRIDGE)
Get Going |
N EW Z EA L A N D
The Guide
142
At one of the huts, a rack of muddy hiking boots in all shapes and
sizes, belonging to travellers from around the world.
Get Going |
CAN A DA
EASY
MODERATE
DEMANDING
ACTIVE HOLIDAY
INTENSITY WALKING ALONG THE TUNNELS BEHIND NIAGARA FALLS, SAILING IN A BOAT,
OR SITTING IN A HELICOPTER FOR A RIDE ABOVE THE FALLS ARE ALL EASY ACTIVITIES.
143
Get Going |
CA N A DA
144
Though pricey,
the helicopter
ride over
Niagara Falls
is a popular
attraction (top);
Those who
want to feel the
power of the
falls take an
elevator from
the Welcome
Center 150 feet
down to the
observation
deck to stand
in the mist
and hear the
thunderous
roar of the falls
(bottom).
PHOTO COURTESY: NIAGARA FALLS TOURISM (HELICOPTER RIDE), NINO H. PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES (TOURISTS)
AT THE HEART OF IT