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Introduction
Cosmetic formulators often face a serious challenge
when they need to develop a stable cosmetic
formulation, especially when using light-sensitive
organic ingredients such as:
Dyestuffs
Fragrances
Active ingredients
(e.g. vitamins)
UV filters
The light-induced deterioration of ingredients in the
cosmetic product has an impact on the physicochemical
parameters in numerous personal care products.
Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM), the
active substance in Oxynex ST Liquid, is a unique
molecule which protects light-sensitive ingredients by
its specific structure against degradation, and which
simultaneously ensures light stability.
Oxynex ST Liquid
Improves the
stability & efficiency
of your products
Functionality of
Oxynex ST Liquid
Light is a form of energy. Molecules, which are able to absorb UV and
visible light, can be excited to a higher energy level upon absorption of
radiation. Organic colorants, dyes, antioxidants, sunscreens, fragrances
& flavor ingredients are examples of this behavior. In the excited state,
these molecules are more reactive than in the ground state and may
form radicals and degradation products. This leads to a loss in product
integrity, color fading, malodor, changes in viscosity etc.
Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM) is the active ingredient in
Oxynex ST Liquid. It was initially designed as a light stabilizer. DESM
has a sterically stabilized phenolic function that renders it a very potent
antioxidant as well as a benzylidene malonate function. Both functions
support the stabilization of light-sensitive molecules. At room temperature, the compound is a viscous yellowish liquid and is readily miscible
with a variety of cosmetic emollients.
Phenolic functionality
Antioxidant functionality
Efficacy
DESM, the active ingredient in Oxynex ST Liquid,
provides highly effective stabilization of colorants,
fragrances, antioxidants and UV filters.
At fairly low concentrations, Oxynex ST Liquid now
offers unlimited color variations in the bath & shower
segment. It is about to become an indispensable
ingredient in all flavored cosmetic applications as well
as providing considerable enhancement in the light
stability of antioxidant compounds. The formulators
objective of photostable broad-spectrum sunscreen
formulations is now eminently achievable.
up to
10-fold
higher light
stability
[%] DESM
Dyes
(CI 42090)
(CI 15510)
(CI 17200)
(CI 19140)
(CI 16035)
(CI 14700)
0.1 %
Guaiazulene
0.02 %
Fragrance compounds
Vanillin
0.5 %
Vitamins
Natural tocopherols
0.2 %
UV filters
Ratio 1 : 0.8
Typical effect
Original
Original
+ 0.05 % DESM
Original
Original
Unexposed
+ 0.05 % DESM
Exposed
Technical data
INCI
Appearance
Active substance
Solubility
Storage
Use level
General applications:
Color stabilization:
Formulation guidelines
Oxynex ST Liquid is compatible with cosmetic raw materials and can be directly added
to the oil phase of an emulsion.
In aqueous applications the addition of a suitable solubilizer at typical concentrations of
0.1 to 0.5 % may be necessary.
In formulations, pH values below 6.8 are mandatory in order to avoid a color shift.
Adjustment of the pH has to be performed before addition of Oxynex ST Liquid.
In order to prevent any complexation of metal ions, the use of chelating agents may be
considered.
Suggested applications
Ordering information
Article No.
130217
Name
| Qxynex ST Liquid
Pack Sizes
| 1 kg, 25 kg
www.cosmetic.merck.de
We provide information and advice to our customers on application technologies and regulatory matters to the
best of our knowledge and ability, but without obligation or liability. Existing laws and regulations are to be
observed in all cases by our customers. This also applies in respect to any rights of third parties. Our information
and advice do not relieve our customers of their own responsibility for checking the suitability of our products
for the envisaged purpose.
Europe
Merck KGaA
Dept. Pigments/Cosmetic
64271 Darmstadt
Germany
Phone: +49-61 51-72 20 98
Fax:
+49-61 51-72 31 10
E-mail: cosmetic@merck.de
www.cosmetic.merck.de
Asia
Cosmetic Customer Service Center
Merck Ltd.
6F-5, No 188, Sec. 5
Nanking East Road
Taipei
Taiwan
Phone: +88 62-2-7422788 ext. 640
Fax:
+88 62-2-7423214
E-mail: Corry.Chen@merck.com.tw
www.merck.com.tw
Japan
Merck Ltd.
ARCO Tower, 5 F
8-1, Shimomeguro 1-chome
Meguro-ku
Tokyo 153-8927
Japan
Phone: +81-3-54 34-47 11
Fax:
+81-3-54 34-47 04
E-mail: merckcos@merck.co.jp
www.merck.co.jp
USw304123
February 2006