Velocitypotential,surfaceelevationanddispersionrelation:

cosh
, , sin tkx)
cosh
, cos tkx

L= tanh

Particlevelocitiesandaccelerations:

u cos tkx)

w sin tkx)
cosh
sin tkx)
cosh
sinh
cos tkx)
cosh
Validforz0andH/L<<1!!
ParticlePaths:

x,z,t

x,z,t

1

where , is the mean position
PressureField:
LinearisedgeneralisedBernoulliequationgives:
, , , forz 0!!!!
, ,
,

Whatwasthewaveperiodandwaveheight?
MechanicalWaveEnergy:

Averageenergycontentperunitareainthehorizontalplane:
EnergyFlux:

Whenkh=2h/Lissmallwehaveshallowwaterwaves
Whenkhislargewehavedeepwaterwaves

Influenceofdepthdistributionofenergyfluxon:
Waveenergyconverters
Floatingbreakwaters/wavebarriers
Forcesonstructures
Theuseofthecoasts:
Shoaling(2D):

H Whenthewaveapproachthecost
weobserve:
Increasedwaveheight(H)
Decreasedwavelength(k
meansL)
k k=k0 (nochange) Conclusion:Thewavesteepness
(H/L)willincreaseuntilthewave
becomesunstableandbreaks.
Deep
water
Ks =1(nochangeinwaveheight)
Kh=kh0 (nochangeinwavelength)
Obliquewavesapproachingthecoast

Whatcanweobserve?
Thewavesturn
Thewavesaretwodimensional
Thewavelengthisdecreased
Thewavesraiseandbreaks
Obliquewavesapproachingthecoast
Refractioncoefficient: Refractioniscausedchangesinthe
wavecelerity(c)alsoknownasthe
phasevelocity.

Waveceleritydecreasewith
decreasingwaterdepth.=>Wave
willturnandpropagatemoreand
moreperpendiculartothecoastline.

Energyconservationincontrolvolume:
, ,
,

,

ShoalingRefractioncoef.
coef.(1ifparalleldepthcontours)
Refractioncalculation:
Refraction:
Wavefronts

Waveorthogonals

Depthcontours
h1>h2>h3

a)headlandb)bay c)submergedridge

Mostolderportsarelocatedinnaturalprotectedareaslike
themouthofariver(naturalharbours)wheretheneeded
protectioninformofbreakwatersismuchless.
Exampleofrefractionatheadland:
CurrentRefraction:

Inadditiontorefractioncausedbydepthvariations,anyotherphenomenon
thatcausevariationsinthephasevelocitycancauserefraction.Thiscanfor
examplebegradientsinthecurrentvelocitiesatforexampletidalentrances.
Diffraction:
Wavediffractionandequilibriumbeach(pocketbeach):
Diffractionatbreakwaterheads:
Diffractionatbreakwaterhead:
Diffractionatoffshorebreakwater:
 Diffractiondiagram: Diffractioncoefficient
Kd =Hd /Hincident

Wave
fronts Assumptions:
Fullyabsorbingboundaries,
i.enoreflectionand
transmissionatbreakwaters,
quaystructuresetc.
Constantphasevelocity,i.e.
constantwaterdepth

Diffractionpoint Application:
Matchingwavelength
Matchingwavedirection
Matchingdiffractionpoint
 Application:
Exampleapplication: Matchingwavelength
Matchingwavedirection
Matchingdiffractionpoint

5min.exercise:
Findthewaveheightattheship
positionsforHo =3.0m,T=8s,h=4.0m
Whatisthepreferedposition?
Complexcases(mostcommon)requiresnumericalorphysicalmodelling:
Physicalmodellingofwavedisturbance:
Numericalmodellingofdiffractionforfullyabsorbingbreakwaterparallelto
wavefronts:
 Numericalwavedisturbancemodelling:

N
N
Numericalwavedisturbancemodelling(Gren):
Depths[m] Waveheights[m]
PortofGrentodayafternewextension(250.000m2 newbasin)
Numericalwavedisturbancemodelling(Dande,Angola):
Numericalwavedisturbancemodelling(Dande,Angola):
 Wavebreaking:

Wavebreakingisveryimportantfor
responseofstructuresandcoastlines
Typesofwavebreaking(spillingandplunging):
Typesofwavebreaking:
Wavebreaking:

Spillingbreaker Collapsingbreaker

Plungingbreaker Surgingbreaker
 Wavebreaking(surfsimilarityparameter,Irribarennumber,breaker
parameter):
Type of wave 0
tan breaking
0
Hb spilling <0.4
L0
plunging 0.4-2.0
surging >2.0
Reflectionfordifferenttypesofstructures/coasts:
Mainenergydissipationmechanismiswavebreaking
Reflection:
Todaysexercise:

Proposediterativeprocedure:
Foraguessonthebreakingdepthhb
wecancalculate:
Lb =fct(T,hb)
cgb =fct(T,Lb,hb)
Hb fromshoalingcoefficient
Hb/Lb >0.142tanh(kbhb)?