The History and techniques of the Batik trade in India.

The earliest form of Batik, also known as Wax writing

dates back to the 4th century BC. At this time the method
was only used for the wrap of mummies in Egypt where
the fabrics were drenched in wax, then symbols scratched
using a stylus. The earliest textile finds in India were made
at Mohenjo-Daro, an archaeological site of the third
millennium BC on the Indus River. The Dutch then brought
over batik to India and by 1677 there is evidence of a
considerable export trade, mostly on silk.

Within this time period, one could determine the royal

lineage of a person by the cloth that he or she was
wearing, batik on silk being used for a higher status. The
design on the batik would also indicate the status of an
individual. Patterns with wider stripes or wavy lines of
greater width, usually signified nobility of a person who is
in a high social status. Religion was also a very important
aspect of these peoples lives, so the most common and
traditional colours included in batik at that time was
indigo, dark brown and white. These colours symbolized
the three major Hindu gods, Brahma, Vishnuand and Siva.

The application and significance of colour is still central to

the Hindu culture today. The symbolism of colour stands
out and controls every aspect of life in India, religion,
politics, festivals, or celebrations. The dyers of India have
been creating colours for batik textiles and decorations,
for at least since the second millennium BC. There is over
three hundred dye yielding plants endemic to the Indian
subcontinent. Every different coloured dye used within
batik is said to have a different meaning. For example, red
is the colour evoked between lovers, saffron is the colour
of the earth and yellow is the colour of spring, of young
mango blossoms, of swarms of bees, of southern winds
and the mating of birds. Thinking of a more negative
colour, black in Indian batik has connections with lack of
desirability, evil, negativity, and inertia. It represents
darkness and anger and is associated with the absence of
energy, barrenness, and death. Black is used as a
representation of a devil and is often used to try and ward
off evil. This can also be found in an old age custom
amongst Indians where a child or, anyone who stands out
of being special, is often traditionally blessed with a little
black dot on the chin or under the ear to ward off the evil
eye. As black represents mostly negative, it isnt the most
common colour used with creating batik pieces.

Indian makers exclusively worked with natural dyes until

the late 19th century. They clamed that this not only lasted
longer, but strengthened, rather than harmed or
weakened any fabric. But then in the 1890s Chemical
dyes became very popular as they were cheap and you
could make any colour very easily. A lot of people thought
that these chemical dyes Injured the artistic feelings of
the people and ruined the ingredients of crafts, but it
boosted the batik trade within India.

(Some examples of natural dyes used with India.)

The batik trade in India in the 21st century has mainly

been replaced by machine woven cotton, although there
are four other types of more traditional cotton. The best
quality, soft and smooth muslin is called primissima, and is
mostly used for the most elaborate designs.
The second grade is prima and the other two lesser quality
cottons are biru and merah, these only mainly being used
in the poorer areas of India.
Another invention, which dramatically increased the
popularity and production of batik in India, is the cap.
This tool resembles an iron shape, and is used to stamp
wax designs onto fabric. Bending strips of copper into a
certain design, soldering to a base and given a handle,
makes the cap. When applying a wax design to the cotton,
the cap is pressed up against a pad soaked in hot wax and
then stamped onto the fabric. The cap was invented in the
early 19th century, but then only became popular with the
growing of other industrys in the 1850s. But despite the
caps popularity, some Indians refuse to use it, The cap
does not require the same degree of artistry as batik
made entirely by drawing over and over.

(Batik textiles made from using the cap.)

The batik industry today is very popular by tourists, as

they want a traditional Indian batik piece, rather than it
being mass-produced or illegally imported. The batik trade
is having serious problems with illegal importing, Most of
this coming from China. Its very popular because copying
traditional Indian designs makes the pieces easy to make,
with poor quality fabric and no tax then is paid. The dyes
also used in these pieces are considered to be made using
high amounts of chemicals, which harms the fabric over
time and is generally unsafe.
The price of illegally imported batik textiles being very
cheap is seriously affecting small and family businesses
throughout India, although tourism is one of their biggest
sellers, it is very easy to get a fake Indian batik piece for
about a quarter, or even less of an original price. These
fake pieces are not only sold online, or produced from
other countries, but they are also now considered to be
sold in markets in India itself. Although this is highly
disliked, businesses are continuing to make money from it,
so this trade will continue to happen.

Although the market seems to have dropped, with

countries such as Indonesia currently having a higher
batik trade, the batik trade in India is still one of oldest
fabric techniques and is highly loved by Indian
communities. Batik will rise and fall but will always be
loved by India throughout.