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TRIPLE-eat in7eat out7eat away

+TESTEDS
RECIPE JUNE 2013
` 100

India

Classics
made
lighter
7Pizza
7Macaroni cheese
7Prawn curry
7Shepherd's pie
7Chocolate tart

Eggless desserts
Fresh and zingy
Thai salads
42
p
za

READER OFFER!
piz
ad
sal

30% off on Ritu Dalmia's


r
lou

new book, Diva Green:


co
Tri

A Vegetarian Cookbook MAGZTER COPY


(T&C apply - see p 60)

EAT OUT EAT AWAY MASTERCLASS


RCLASS
Aoi's Chicken Singapore John Paul Carmona's
Donburi with Alex prawn cannnelloni
FREE
AUGMENTED Sanchez with veggie
es
REALITY
VIDEO
p 126
Manali on
FOR
INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO VIEW,
your plate
TURN TO P 11
Let there be light
I know, I know we all love a rich, spicy curry and a cheese-
sm mothered mac n cheese, not to forget gooey chocolate desserts.
These classics can never go out of style, but maybe, just maybe,
T
tthey could use a makeover.

After all, your favourite Thai red curry, thickened with coconut
cream, alone can add up to half a days sodium allowance and
THE COOL LIST
half a days saturated fat. The question is, could we reclaim the
Get on top of 2013's
pleasures of these calorie-laden dishes, yet get them out of the
coolest food trends.
nutrition doghouse? The answer is a resounding yes.
Hint: Yuzu is in. So
is ceviche! P 15
At Good Food, we believe healthy decadence neednt be an
oxymoron. We also know that habits dont stick if they are
finitive lowdown on this summ
the de urs, trends and
Get st culinary flavo e
it ed rs
joyless. As French legend Alain Ducasse says in his health- cool
e ibles

minded cookbook, Nature, Food has to be a pleasure, not an


obligation. The ideas in this edition make the grade in terms of nutrition, yet they are a lot
more exciting (and pleasing) than blah a bowl of tossed greens. Words

HOT AND TANGY KAINAZ CONTRACTOR,


VIDYA BALACHANDER
Illustrations
SVABHU KOHLI

Thai salads pack


Fresher, lighter classics Go the tastier (and healthier) route with our deliciously simple
a flavour wallop.
makeovers. Its a major upgrade in health, and easier than you think. Eternal favourites from
Your senses will
shepherds pie and burgers to chocolate tart and lemon drizzle cake get a modern
swoon. P 70
update as British lean cuisine expert Angela Nilsen lays down the laws of lighter
at iin
eat
ning
entertaining
enter

cooking. Elsewhere in this edition, you will nd low-fat crackers, an under-500-cal


a new leaf
Turning over

H
rillia
brilliantly
brillian
brillia sty flavour
esty
antly zest
antly zesty trip
flavour trip
tr
RES Photographs
CHEF ALEX GARES
ess C
Recipes
E
BANERJEE
RITAM BANERJEE
salad pizza, and a range of guilt-free curries.

salads are
hai salad ar
ar

Thai salads The surprise hit of the summer table? Beautiful and bracing Thai salads
Thai
versatile,
ery versa
very
and made
d can be made
from almo
almost
nything - v
anything eggies,,
veggies,
rbs, fru
herbs, fruit s, meat
fruits,
seafood. A
and seafood
a
great Th
h
hould
should perfe
perf
n spicy,
end
blend
nd sw
lty and
salty
l d
Thaii salad
f ctly
sour,
spic sour,
sour
ee
eet
sweet
y
ly
r, redolent with spices, fresh herbs and greens. We bring you four popular varieties
avours T
avou
avours.
flavours.
fl he k
The key
a iis the
o its taste
to
es
dressing,
n
a number
i
in

ngredients
ingredi
ingredients
ud
luding
cluding
including
of vital
vi

mon
garlic, lemon
chilli, garlic, llemo
including the tangy Yam Lamut (green mango with curry paste) and the
or lime, fi sh sa
fish uce,
sauce,
and palm su sugar.
Executive
ef Alex Gare
- Chef

oh Samui,
Resort Koh S
Gares,
Four Seasons
tive Chef, Fo
Thailand
Thailand
sweet-tart Yam som-o-gai (chicken and pomelo). Bursting with colour and brilliantly
Pla oo
goong (prawn sa
oong
a goong
ed c
mongrass, roasted
lemongr
d with
ad
s lad wi
chil
chilli
contrasting avours, these crunchy sensations are low-carb and virtually fat free. CURRYING FAVOUR?
n p 90
cipe on 90)

Share this yummy


lim (recipe
a lime)
paste and

Veg with an edge Inviting dishes from super chef Ritu Dalmias latest book Diva Green prawn curry. Extra
excerpted in our Modern Veggie are sure to draw a crowd. Papaya curry, labneh, Peruvian- points for eating with
FREEZE RIGHT style cheese dips with sliced potatoes. Vegetarian (and straight up delicious), Dalmias recipes your hands. P 64
THERE! address the craving for imaginative veggie food and prove you dont need meat to deliver
Think eggless cant bold avour and hearty satisfaction. Grab this wonderful book. Good Food d readers get a
be decadent? This whopping 30 per cent off its cover price! Details on p 60.
wicked plum fro yo
will show you. P 86 Eggless wonders Come summer and things eggy can seem a bit heavy. Which is why we
all need knockout eggless dessert recipes in our repertoire. Like Delhi-based food blogger
Deeba Rajpals sinful chocolate salami roll and pretty lime possets. Rajpals divine creations
are sure to please sweet lovers of all stripes. And they look festive enough to serve at special
occasions. I love her Plum fro yo, decadently laced with kirsch.

Enjoy this light, bright issue. Our master ideas will turn your meals into opportunities to eat
well, indulge your cravings and d pump up your energy.

Heres to healthy decadence. Bring on the chocolate tart.

Sona Bahadur, editor

2 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai AD SALES
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COOK
OUR
COVER

Contents
RECIPE!

42 62 94
eat in eat out
Tricolour salad pizza QTo make the base, heat the oven Inspiring, seasonal recipes that Restaurants on trial and cafs
Serves 2 Q45 minutes + resting to 240C. Oil a round baking tray work every time with character
Q EASY (about 28cm). Mix the our, yeast,
salt and sugar in a bowl, then stir in 38 7 MEALS FOR ` 700 94 RESTAURANT SPY
olive oil 1 tbsp the water. Bring the mixture together A weeks worth of stylish Organic cafes on trial
garlic clove 1, thinly sliced and knead until smooth. Rest the meals 102 PRO VS PUNTER
tomatoes 230g, chopped dough for 30 minutes. Then press 45 LUNCHBOX Kolkatas The Flying Monk
salt and pepperr to season the dough into the oiled tray. Light and healthy lunches 104 OFF THE EATEN
mozzarella 125g, sliced QHeat the olive oil in a non-stick 46 READY IN 30 TRACK
rocket a handful frying pan, add the garlic and cook Snappy recipes ready in Mumbais Vinay Health
avocado 1 small, sliced for a minute. Add the tomatoes, a jiffy Home
tomatoes 10 small, halved season, then cook for 10-15 minutes 54 MODERN VEGGIE 107 SIGNATURE DISH
balsamic vinegar to nish until thickened and reduced. Cool. Ritu Dalmias stylish Aois Grilled Chicken
QSpread a thin layer of the tomato veggie dishes Donburi
THE PIZZA BASE sauce over the base, leaving a small 62 WEEKEND
olive oil for greasing border and top with mozzarella. Bake Curries made lighter
plain flour 100g for 10-15 minutes until puffed and 70 ENTERTAINING
dried yeast 3g (try Red Star golden. To serve, scatter over rocket, Zesty and avourful
available at gourmet stores) avocado, tomatoes, seasoning and a Thai salads
salt a pinch drizzle of balsamic. 77 HEALTHY
sugar 1/2 tsp QPER SERVING 523 kcals, protein MAKEOVERS
warm water 60ml 22.8g, carbs 42.8g, fat 29g, sat fat Classics with a healthy
12g, fibre 5.6g, salt 1.7g touch PRO vss PUNTER
Feel like the average diner
84 SHOWOFF
doesnt always agree with
ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY! Stylish eggless desserts professional reviews?
Now, subscribing to BBC Good Food India (and all your other Become our punter in the
favourites like Femina, GoodHomes, Lonely Planet, Filmfare Pro vs Punter section
and others) just requires a click of the mouse! Log on to mags. and review a restaurant
timesgroup.com. along with a seasoned pro.
Simply fill your cart with your favourite magazines and pay right To apply, write to us at
from your desk. Plus get great discounts and really exciting gift bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in.
offers! Log in now! MAGZTER COPY
4 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013
June 2013
22 NEWS, TRENDS AND
SHOPPING
New restaurants, trends we
like and more
25 ON TEST
Energy bars & whisks
26 BARGAIN HUNTER
Best value foodie events,
meals and deals
28 NEED TO KNOW
Laal maat
30 FOOD ISSUE
BBC Good Food
116 investigates sugar
33 THE HEALTHY
eat away INGREDIENT
Foodie holiday ideas and
recipes from around the world
Brown rice
35 DRINK UP
35
Melon spritzers
Sunny fruit cocktails
110 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: 36 BOOKS AND COOKS
SINGAPORE
Authentic dishes from the
Junes must-read food
tomes Out & about
JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH
Merlion City
116 CITY ON THE PLATE:
MANALI masterclass
Sample the hill stations 125 COOK LIKE A PRO
food delights A natty weighing scale
121 BUDGET AND for your kitchen Manali
BLOWOUT CAPE 126 MASTERCLASS Vadodara Delhi
TOWN John Paul Carmonas Q Q Singapore
Q QQ
An eaters guide to the step-by-step Prawn Q
Q
Q
Q
multicultural city Cannelloni
Q

122 POSTCARD FROM 130 DO IT YOURSELF Mumbai


Thailand
CHENNAI Make quark cheese
Karen Anand on Chennais at home Bengaluru
Q
Chennai
culinary transformation 131 WINE GUIDE
Cool off with Cape Town
Chardonnay
rst bite 132 TOP PRODUCER
6 OVER TO YOU Amadoras Gourmet Ice
Reader recipes, comments Cream in Chennai
THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY
and letters 136 GOOD FOOD LOVES 7BBC GoodFood is the UKs largest selling food magazine with
13 FIRST BITE Phalsa and jamun are our a readership of over 1.1 million.
Nosh on healthy summer picks 7bbcgoodfood.com is the UKs most popular recipe site
homemade crackers attracting 3.7 million unique users per month.
138 SUBSCRIBE to 7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over
15 COOL LIST
Good Food India 70,000 downloads till date.
2013s hottest food trends

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 5


Over to you
For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,
Write to us!
We love hearing from you. Email us your feedback,
your favourite recipes and your comments at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in. Lets be in touch!
our readers, to keep us on the pulse

FOOD NATIONVadodara
Good Food reader Anusha Praveen on
GOOD her favourite food spots in Vadodara
FOOD 7BREAKFAST Treat yourself to a hearty
south Indian breakfast at Aramana (+91
STAR 265 2391225) located at Subanpura. Tuck
RECIPE into uffy idlis, vellappam and crispy rava dosas. The
vellappams are served with either Kerala-style stew or a
creamy vegetable korma. Also try the Idli-Upma, a tweaked
version of homemade upma. The Malabar parottas and
Nool Puttu are delectable. Meal for two, ` 300.
7LUNCH Sasumaa (0265 2311151) offers an unlimited
thali replete with ghee-laden rotis, rotlas, rice, an array of
vegetables, salads, the traditional meethi Gujarati dal, kadhi
and farsan. For dessert, there isnt just one option
but three great ones. The masala papad is a
must-try. The chaat served with yoghurt
is a delight. Sip on the mildly spiced
chaas or ask for another helping of
chilled aamras. Meal for two, ` 360.
7DINNER Hidden in a tiny alley
in Alkapuri, Chung Fa is quaint with
cheery dcor that has Chinese written
all over it. It serves piquant soups and
a range of starters and mains. Begin your
meal with Manchow soup and move on to the generously
Yam som o gai (pomelo THE GARNISH portioned Singapore noodles, stir-fries and Schezuan-style
and chicken salad) red chillies 2, deep-fried rice. Meal for two, ` 600.
Serves 2 Q30 minutes Q EASY shallots 2-4, deep-fried
kaffir lime leaves 2, julienned HOW YOU PIMPED IT
pomelo or grapefruit 2-4 pieces, mint a few sprigs Its a crunchy, refreshing salad that is easy
peeled and de-veined lettuce leaves a few to put together. I substituted the pomelo for
chicken breasts 2, cooked and oranges in the recipe. The oranges, chicken,
shredded QRemove the outer skin of the pomelo cashewnuts and the dressing came together
cashewnuts 2, roasted and crushed and put the plump kernels on a plate. well. I loved the crunch of the fried shallots
dried shrimp or shrimp powder 4 Prepare the sauce by mixing all the and chillies and ended up piling them on the
pieces, chopped ingredients together in a bowl. Stir well. salad. However, it was slightly sweet and I would have given
coconut 2 tbsp, grated QAdd the chicken, cashewnuts, dried the palm sugar a miss since the Thai sweet chili paste already
shrimp and grated coconut. Add the had sweetness to it. Richa DSouza is a Hyderabad-based
THE SWEET CHILLI SAUCE pomelo and mix well. Place the pomelo marketing professional who loves experimenting with food.
lime juice 2 tbsp salad on a plate. Top with red chillies,
fish sauce 2 tbsp (try Ayam available shallots and kafr lime leaves. Garnish JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM
at gourmet stores) with the mint and lettuce leaves. Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks
palm sugar 2 tbsp QPER SERVING 333 kcals, protein
who try our recipes and give us feedback on what
Thai sweet chilli paste 2 tbsp (try Real
they liked and what they would do differently. Write
30.6g, carbs 43.6g, fat 3.8g, sat fat 1.3g,
to us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in to join us.
Thai available at gourmet stores) fibre 1.1g, salt 1.3g

6 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


over to you
readers write

12.5% 37.5%
Burgers Macaroni INSIDERS
37.5%
Pizza
12.5%
Chocolate tart
cheese
POLL
Which comfort
food would you
like to give a
healthier twist?

Dear Editor, LETTER READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH


OF THE
I showed the articles on snake MONTH Deepa Joshi is a
Pune-based German
cucumbers and raw mangoes
translator by profession
from the May issue to local villagers and blogs at foodlyrics.
who were overwhelmed by the possibilities of com. An avid foodie,
our local produce. They arranged a get-together baking is her passion.

with BBC Good Food magazine on the table and Apple and cinnamon cake
demonstrated the use of the produce they grow. Serves 4 Q45 minutes Q EASY
The end use of the produce in your magazine
oil 1 tsp, for greasing
is so different from the way these ingredients refined flour 1/2 cup + 1 tsp extra
are prepared in rural areas. Amazing indeed! baking powder 1/2 tsp
A restaurateur friend of mine also sought sugar 1/2 cup
cinnamon powder 3/4 tsp
inspiration from the recipes in the Club Tropicana
eggs 2
feature and served them to his patrons who were butter 25g, melted
delighted with the new varieties, not made honey 1 tbsp
available even by big ice cream brands. Finally, the apple 1/2, chopped

recipes for kids helped children make the best of QLine the base and the sides of a baking
their time. I can probably compile an entire book tin with butter paper. Use some oil to
based on the articles featured in Good Food. achieve this. honey. Mix gently. Use the additional
QSift the our, baking powder, sugar our to roll the chopped apples and mix
- Shashi Sah, Faizabad and cinnamon powder together. Beat the them into the batter.
our mixture with the eggs for 5 minutes. QBake for 20 minutes at 180C. When
The winner of the letter of the month for this
issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000 Meanwhile preheat the oven to 180C. done, cool for 1 hour and serve with tea
from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting QThereafter add the melted butter and or coffee.
goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive
oil, penne rigate, basil crackers, chocolate The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift
fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese hamper worth ` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd (DCPL),
and Jamie Olivers chilli salt. a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hamper
To write in to the contains an array of products from DCPLs Leonardo
magazine, email us brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole
at bbcgoodfood@ wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil,
wwm.co.in and pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe
include your booklets.
address and
telephone Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook
number. at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow
us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 7


In this issue ANGELA NILSEN
Angela Nilsen is a food writer, author and editor of several
culinary projects in the United Kingdom. She compiles and
edits the Good Food 1011 series of books. A former Food Editor
of the UKs BBC Good Food magazine, she is well known for

 her Ultimate series of recipes that are foolproof, healthy


versions of classic comfort foods. She is also the author of
The Ultimate Recipe Book published in 2007. Nilsen shows


us how to give classic comfort foods a healthy twist in Eat In


o

RITU DALMIA ALEX SANCHEZ


Ritu Dalmia is chef and proprietor of Alex Sanchez is the executive chef of
Diva restaurant and Caf Diva, and runs The Table restaurant in Mumbai. He
Latitude 28 Caf and Caf at ICC, all graduated from the Culinary Institute
located in Delhi. She is also the author of America and earned his stripes
of Italian Khana and Travelling Diva. In working in prestigious restaurants in
2000, after successfully running the San Francisco. Before relocating to
Indian restaurant Vama in London, Mumbai, he worked at Michelin-starred
she started Diva. Try her sophisticated restaurants Manresa and Michael Mina
vegetarian recipes drawn from her in San Francisco. Sanchez has won
latest book, Diva Green: A Vegetarian accolades for his simple yet inventive
Cookbook, in Modern Veggie on p 54. approach to cooking with a focus on
Good Food readers get a 30 per cent using local ingredients. He gives you a

discount on this wonderful book. tour of Singapores culinary landscape
in Eat Like a Local in Eat Away, p 110.

DEEBA RAJPAL
eba Rajpal is an award-winning Gurgaon-based blogger
d recipe developer who also specialises in food styling. She
ites about her baking adventures on her blog Passionate
bout Baking. Rajpal believes that food must taste as good as
ooks and should be healthy too. She enjoys exploring novel
gredients and recommends using fresh, seasonal and local
produce as far as possible. She presents her delicious takes on

eggless desserts in Showoff on p 84.

ALEX GARES
Alex Gares is the executive chef of The Four Seasons Resor
in Koh Samui, Thailand. Born in Barcelona, he worked as th
executive chef at the Maldives-based Soneva Fushi Resort.
He has also worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants
Spain. Treat your family and friends with his recipes for zes
Thai salads featured in Entertaining on p 70.

8 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Get to know us
Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.
Heres what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:
rst bite rst bite
news, trends, shoppingng news, trends, shopping

fir
irstt bite
e Snack attack
7First Bite
OA CRACKERS
QUIN

Our guilt-free munchies allow you to binge till the cows come home

Methi crackers Oatmeal crackers


Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes + Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes +
baking QEASY baking QEASY

Make a dough with 200g multigrain


atta, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp sugar,
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, 2
chopped green chi h llies, 1 tsp chopped
Make a dough with 100g oats, 100g
wholewheat atta, a pinch of salt,
1 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp cinnamon powder,
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and 1/2 cup
Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow.
FL
AX

ginger, 1 tsp jeera, 1 tsp chilli powder, water. Let it rest for 30 minutes.
S
CKER

1/2 cup chopped methi and 1/2 cup Repeat the same baking process as used
SEE

First Bite brings you the months freshest food buzz new launches,
water. Let it rest for 30 minutes. for the methi crackers.
D CRA
OATMEAL CRA

Preheat the oven to 175C. Take a


baking tray and turn it upside down. Quinoa crackers
Put the dough on the back of the tray. Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes +
CKERS

Roll it thinly like a chapatti on the


h tray. baking QEASY
This will avoid any breakage. Brush
with a little olive oil on top. Cut into Cook 1/4 cup q quinoa with 1/2 cup boiling

What a desired shapes. Bake for 20 minutes waterr for 15 minutes on a slow ame until

CRACKER
until crisp and golden. Cool. Store in an
airtight container.

Ragi crackers
Makes approx 3 dozen Q 45 minutes +
it resembles pearls. Make a dough with
100g wholewheat
l atta, cooked quinoa, 1
tbsp black pepper, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp
sugar, 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and
1/2 cup water. Let it rest for 30 minutes.
events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and
OF AN IDEA! baking QEASY Repeat the same baking process as used
for the methi crackers.

more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To


The crunc
These
Th cru h
hy winners are pro
proof that healthy iss any
anything but
ut borin
bori g Make a dough with 150g ragi flour, TIP
Recipes
Re ipes AMIT PAMNANI
50g multigrain atta, 5 tbsp extra Spinach dip QUse your
Photog
Photographs
ottog RITAM BANERJEE
ANERJE
EE
EE virgin olive oil, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY imagination while
sugar, 1 tbsp white sesame seeds, cutting the crackers
1 tsp black sesame seeds and 1/2 Blend together 1 garlic clove, 5 tbsp create different
cup water. Let it rest for 30 minutes. cream cheese, 5 tbsp toasted almonds, shapes and sizes,
Repeat the same baking process as 1/2 cup blanched spinach, or just roll them
h

Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important
used for the methi crackers. 2 tbsp chopped coriander, 3 tbsp lime up to make sticks.
juice, 2 tbsp olive oil, a pinch of salt, a QMake these
Flaxseed crackers pinch of grated nutmeg and 1 tbsp curd crackers a partt
Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes + until smooth. of an impressiveve
Crisp
Crisp,
p,
baking QEASY cheeseboard with ith
yet low
ye w
in fat, these
se
Beetroot dip relishes like onion
Make a dough with 200g wholewheat Serves 6 Q20 minutes QEASY jam and chilli
crackers rs a
are

food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 13


atta, 4 tbsp flaxseeds, 5 tbsp extra marmalade. You
ea
ea asy to rustle up p
virgin olive oil, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp Boil 400g beetroot in a pressure cooker. could even pair
with
wit
tth
h your
y choice of
sugar, 1 tbsp dried mixed herbs, Cool and peel. Blend together 2 garlic these crackers
uber healthy
ealthy ours,
S

5 tbsp grated parmesan and 1/2 cup cloves, 1 tbsp olive oil, 1/2 cup curd, a with innovative
ER

her grain
herbs, grain, spices andn
RA

water. Let it rest for 30 minutes. pinch of salt, a handful of mint leaves, and healthy dips
CK

GI seeds.
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brilliantly
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ly zesty flav
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our trip
7Eat In
Recipes
ess CHEF
F ALEX
AL
A
ALE GARES
ES Photographs RITAM BANERJE
E BANERJEE

The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes
Thai salads
salads a are
with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is
very
ery
ry versat
versa ile,
and can be made

herbs,
from almos

rbs, fruits,
almost
anything - veggies,
eggies,
fruits, meat
and seafood. A
an
d
triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. Weve
great Thai
Th i salad l d
should
hould
blend
end

flavours.
flavours
to
ld perf
p ectly
nd sspicy
n
salty
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ltty and
vours. The k
o its
ts tast
tas
ta e is
weet
weet

i th
ee
ly
icy,, sour,
d swe
key
the
got everything covered from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus
dressing,
essi including
nclud
a number
numbe
number
ingredi
er of vital
ingredients
chilli,
ngredients
i garlic, lemo
or lime, fi
andnd pa
fish
palm suga
pal
v
vi
t
lemon
mon
sh ssauce,
uce,
gar.
ar
for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and kid-friendly recipes bursting
- Chef
e Alex Gares
Gar ,

with flavours. P 37
Executive
xecutive
tive Chef, Four Seasons
Resort Koh Samui,
Samui, Thailand

Pla
aggoong
oong
ng (prawn
(prawn salad wiwit
with
lemongrass
lemongrass,
mon
ongrass, roast
roas eed
d chill
chilli
paste and lime) (recipe o
on
n p 90
90)
9

eat out
restaurant spy

On trial
Organic cafs 7Eat Out
What are your restaurant options for an all-natural meal minus additives and preservatives?
We put five organic cafs to our taste test

HOW WE DID IT Although more and more restaurants in India are turning towards organic produce in keeping with international
trends, even today very few eateries can actually claim to be completely organic. We chose ve cafs that attempt to adhere to the philosophy of
This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews
serving natural, light and wholesome dishes using at least a few certied organic ingredients. The menus at these establishments lean towards lighter,

and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach
caf fare rather than restaurant-style dishes.

7TATTVA
ART &
Looking for a restaurant that serves
healthy, gourmet dishes made with
authentic, organic ingredients? You
refreshing and light yet wholesome.
In the Whole Wheat Pasta with Lentil
Bolognese, sabut masoorr dal is cooked
Left: The
Pranatattva
salad at
FRESH
to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India
wont nd a better bet than Tattva - Art in vegetable stock before being tossed Tattva Art &
& Fresh Organic Kitchen. They take with red wine vinegar and some Fresh Organic
ORGANIC their commitment to serve healthy veggies, and topped with cheese. This Kitchen is made
KITCHEN, food seriously enough to refrain from
putting pakodass and pizzas on the
dish is a little dry and needs more
sauce. It can also do with more avour.
with lettuce,
mulberries and
New Delhi menu. Instead, the well thought out walnuts; Facing
menu offers plenty of choice in terms QBESTSELLERS page: Tattvas

reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus,


of drinks, soups, starters, mains and Tattvas Real Caesar Salad, Cous welcoming,
desserts all of it healthy and organic! Cous Platter, Trivikrama Kebab Platter, home-style
While the description of the food Sorghum Millet Pesto Pilaf entrance
makes it sound almost medicinal, it QPROVENANCE
certainly does not taste so. All ingredients are sourced from
Tucked away in the alleys of Hauz certied organic stores. Most vegetables
Khas Village, this restaurant is difficult and pulses come from Navdanya;

we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature
to stumble upon. The dcor follows a some grains from Ahana Organic in
predominantly white theme with an Delhi and walnuts from Himjoli in
eclectic mix of beanbags, lamps and Uttarakhand. The handmade cows
cushions lending splashes of colour. milk cheeses are from Pondicherry.
The furniture is made of recycled QGO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?
and reused materials to create a Most of the desserts are not available
comfortable environment with a lower due to the lack of fresh ingredients, so

recipes to make at home. P 93


carbon footprint. go for the starters. The Summer Salsa
First, we are served a deliciously has thin and crunchy ragi crisps served
peppery hummus along with bread with mango salsa and salsa verde.
sticks that are, in fact, thinly cut sticks Seasoned with salt and lemon juice and
Photographs SAURABH SISODIA

of toasted multigrain bread. Our millet tempered with tiny black jakhiya a seeds
main has millet grains tossed with (a hill spice that looks like mustard),
pomegranate and pumpkin seeds the mango salsa is sweet and slightly
with a light vinaigrette dressing. The tangy. The cooling jakhiya a balances out
millet tastes like quinoa, but the grains the heat of the mango. The salsa verde
are bigger and harder. The dish is made with parsley, basil, garlic, lemon

eat awa
away
local knowledge
knowledge
ge
e

EAT7DO7SHOP7SLEEP

City on the plate 7Eat Away


Manali Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who often live in the
Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA

With its dizzying array of culinary delights including Chinjabii trout


cool Manali is a travel-worthy destination for the food minded
Words ANISA NARIMAN

O
ne of Indias most
popular hill stations,
Manali offers much
more than just dizzying
heights and chilly weather all year
Tel: +91 9816699663) offers great
vegetarian pizzas, especially the
delicious Four Cheese Pizza ((`
Walk to Pizza Olive (Tel: +91
` 350).

9816191541) in Old Manali for their


Left, from top:
A steep climb
up Old Manali;
A shepherd
with his herd
featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from
round. Travellers often use it as a pit scrumptious Pesto and Sundried of goats on the

the worlds most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy,
stop to reach higher planes like the Tomato pizza. If youre a meat end, road leading
Rohtang Pass the gateway to Lahaul you can opt for ham and salami to the Jana
Valley and Spiti Valley. The infamous toppings. Visit Il Forno (Hadimba falls; Misri
hash trail is another draw that brings Temple Road; Tel: +91 9816922481) khumani is one
hippies from all over the world, while for delectable Italian fare. Set in a of the locally
the picturesque snow peaks attract 100-year-old Himachali home in cultivated fruits
ocks of honeymooners. Adventure the midst of a lush garden, this al Facing page:
Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA

authentic menus from around the world while Budget and Blowout shows
junkies can try their hand at just about fresco caf is perfect for warm, sunny Martins, a
anything here from hang gliding to lunches. The cosy wooden interiors family-run
rock climbing and skiing. are straight out of a Hansel and Gretel eatery, is
Geographically, Manali is divided story. Due to a dispute, Roberta, the surrounded by
into two parts the new town, which Italian proprietor of the restaurant, no a garden and
includes the crowded and touristy longer runs the place. Even though apple orchards
Mall Road, and Old Manali, which the food tastes the same, it isnt certain
attracts a mix of foreigners and young how long the restaurant will be able to
travellers. Despite being overburdened
by tourists, especially during the peak
summer season, Manali has a magic to
it that makes it hard not to return. But
what really sets it apart from other hill
stations is the smorgasbord of exciting
sustain itself without her. Until it does,
try their wonderful pizzas; the Mutton
Spezzatino, a heart-warming stew to
get you through the cold walk home;
Mushroom Lasagna, and of course, the
Fiammetta a gooey chocolate dessert
you how to get your wallets worth when travelling. And City On the Plate
cuisines. Who would imagine that you that is truly decadent.

features the insiders food guide to an Indian or international city. P 109


could eat everything from Korean to It would be futile to visit Manali
Italian at an altitude of 6,398 feet? and not get your hands on some local
Photograph ANISA NARIMAN

Photograph ANISA NARIMAN

Photograph ANISA NARIMAN

river trout. Johnsons Caf and


EAT Bar (Circuit House Road; Tel: +91
Almost every pizza kitchen in Manali 1902 253764) not to be confused
is equipped with a wood-red oven. with Johnsons Lodge next door is
Casa Bella Vista (Log Huts Road; a beautiful spot for lunch. Grab one

masterclass
chef skills

JOHN PAUL CARMONAS


Masterclass
Chef John Paul Carmona, Executive Chef of 3mile Corp, San Francisco and visiting chef
at The Table, Mumbai, makes step-by-step prawn cannelloni
7Masterclass
Recipe JOHN PAUL CARMONA Photographs VIKAS MUNIPALLE

Prawn cannelloni with


roasted vegetables
g
crispy chickpeas
and
Serves 4 Q 1 hour + roasting
Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons
Q A LITTLE EFFORT

tiger prawns 8, heads removed with the


shell on
wooden skewers 8
basil leaves 20

THE PRAWN CANNELLONI


directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurant-
prawns 500g, de-shelled, deveined and

perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through
cut into 1/4-inch chunks
egg yolk k1
saffron a pinch
salt 1 tsp
cream 300g
spinach leaves 8 large, stems removed
and blanched

illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen


THE CHICKPEA FRITTERS
chickpeas 300g, dry
olive oil 1/2 cup
water 1/2 cup
chilli sauce 2 tbsp
eggs 2
garlic cloves 2, grated
lime 1, zest only

gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is
salt 1 tsp
chickpea flour (besan) to coat
vegetable oil 1l, for deep frying

THE ROASTED VEGETABLES AND JUS


zucchini 250g, cut into 1-inch pieces
white onion 500g, peeled and cut into

perfect for wine lovers. P 125


1-inch pieces
eggplant 125g, cut into 1-inch pieces
olive oil 1 tbsp
tomatoes 500g
IVE red peppers 250g, roasted and peeled

EXCLUSY-STEP
garlic cloves 60g, peeled

STEP-BCIPE
saffron 1/8 tsp
salt to taste
RE thyme leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
How to get the best THE GOOD FOOD INDIA
PROMISE
from Good Food India We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant
reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them
Whyy you
y can cook our What our symbols fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and
recipeswith confidence mean doing it sustainably. Heres what you can expect from this
All the recipes in Good Food are tested EASY Recipes everyone can make, and every issue:
thoroughly, so theyll work the rst even beginners. These dishes are
TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested
time for you at home. Most of our usually quick, often on the table within
at least three times. For great results, we recommend
recipes are developed in the Good 20 minutes.
you use standard level measuring spoons, and dont mix
Food test kitchen by our cookery MODERATELY EASY These require
imperial and metric measures.
team or come from food writers and a bit more skill for example making
chefs. We aim to make our recipes and rolling out pastry. EASY RECIPES Most of Good Foods recipes are quick
as practical as possible, keeping A LITTLE EFFORT and simple to follow and can be made using easily
ingredient lists to a minimum and Recipes aimed at experienced cooks available ingredients.
avoiding lengthy preparations. who cook for pleasure and like a THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for
challenge. elaborate meals and entertaining. Weve included a
How we triple
p test CAN BE FROZENUnless otherwise smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a
our recipes stated, freeze for up to three months. good challenge.

1 The rst time is by the recipe writer,


who tests the recipe in a domestic
kitchen.
Defrost thoroughly and heat until
piping hot.
VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.
GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make
the most of your budget 7 meals for ` 700. We also use
full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste,

2 Next, a member of the cookery


team makes the recipe in the
JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.
but if thats not possible we aim to suggest ways of using
up leftovers.
Good Food India kitchen. Over to you SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients
3 The recipe is then tested at our
photo shoot. Some recipes are
tested a fourth time at home by
Have a family recipe to
share or think you could
in our recipes because they give the food a distinct
avour and add seasonal freshness.
individual members of the Good Food add to our recipes? Email HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%
editorial team were all keen cooks us at bbcgoodfood@wwm. indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support
and often cant resist trying out a our recipes with nutritional info. Well also tell you how to
co.in and let us know. Were
recipe we particularly love, as soon as give popular recipes a healthy makeover.
weve discovered it. always on the look out for
PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use
new places and food stories humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs,
Testing our recipes three times or
more may seem over-cautious, but and would love to hear about sustainably sourced sh and unrened sugar.
mistakes can be costly, so we think it great places to eat in your INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Y Sometimes, recipes call
makes sense to ensure you get the
right result every time. hometown. for ingredients that arent available locally and cant be
brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. Its
your choice whether or not you use them.
LOOK OUT FOR eat in
everyday
n
CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall

THESE HIGHLIGHTS eateries and ne dining restaurants theres room for


both in Good Foods Eat Out pages.
Those recipes marked with LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms
R
REALLY
REALLY this stamp are the simplest
EASY
Y
and require very little effort. you with insider info and recipes from the worlds most
exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food
REALLY
Recipes that can be made Crab-stuffed
Crab
Serves
ed avo
erves 4 Q
Q 10
avoca
adoes
ad es
0 minutes
n
nutes QEASY
QFlake
Q Flake the crabmeat
crabmeat into
(If using canned
n a small
mall bowl.
bo
bow
owl. journalists.
canned meat,

under 20 minutes. Perfect


t squ

REALLY
squeeze
eezez the
white
ite crabm
crabme
crabmea
me t 100g water complete
completely.) ly.) Mix in the mustard
00g
0 (try Bumble Be
available at gourmet
availabl Bee and oil,, then season
stores)
stores) to tast
taste.. Add the

QUICK
K d on mus
dijon mustard 1 ttsp (try
available
e at gourmet
gou met
y Roland
me stores)
basil
sil and chilli just before
QTo serve,
befo serving.
rv halve and stone
erv .

BIG ISSUES Preaching doesnt come naturally, so we


for hectic weekdays.
stone th
the
olive oil 2 tbsp
bsp
REALLY
R avocadoe
adoess. Fill
Fill each cavity
REALLY cavity with a
salt and pepper
pepper to QUICK K quarter of thethe crab mix,
o taste mix, scatter wi
wit
ith
ha
basil leaves a handful, few off the smaller
shredded,
shredded
ed,, wit basil leaves and ea
a few of the w
with with teaspoons. at
th smaller leaves

wont tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep


leaves left
ft w
whol
wh
whole,
to serve QPER SERVING
204 kcals, protein
red chilli 1, deseeded carbs 2g, fat 19g, 6g,
and chop
and chopped
hopped
ped
ped
p sat fat 2g, fibre 2g,
avocadoes 2 sugar 1g, salt 0.41g

FOR Show-off recipes when you you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world
gra LIS PARSONS
NS

SKILLED fancy a challenge. These


Photograph
togra

COOKSS in our Good Food Investigates feature. We tell you why


recipes require a little effort.
your sugar consumption is a matter of concern on p 30.
For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 135

10 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


How to make sense of Good Foods
augmented reality (AR) special
View our AR feature embedded
in this issue with three easy-as-pie steps:
Get the ALIVE app:
1 Give a missed call to
18001023324
or visit aliveapp.in

Video RITAM BANERJEE


T IPLE-
TR eat in7eat out7eat away
90+
TESTEDS
RECIPES
E JUN 2013
JUNE
` 100

India

Classics Open the ALIVE app on your phone and scan the Voila! Watch your
made 2 cover or the Signature Dish page (p 123) with the 3 favourite recipe, Aois
lighter ALIVE logo by focusing your phones camera on it. Chicken Donburi, come
7Pizz
zza
a
7Maca
M roni che
Ma
Mac
7Pr
Praw
rra n ccurry
heese
y
ese Android/iPhone: Hold still and it will scan ALIVE on your mobile
7Shep
hep
7Choc
pherd
herd's
colat
's pie
o e tartt
ie automatically. device. You will get
Egg
Eggl
ggless
gglesss dess
dessserts
ert BB/Symbian: Go to Options, then capture image. various options thatll
Fressh an
nd zingy
zingy
y Windows: Tap on screen to capture and hold still enable you to view,
Thai sa
sallads
sal
42

over image. save and share these


ap
izzzzza

READER OFFER!
dp
sala

30% off on Ritu Dalmia's features.


r
loou

new book, Diva Green:


r co
Tri

A Vegetarian Cookbook
(T&C apply - see p 60)

EAT OUT EAT AWAY MASTERCLASS


RCLASS
Aoi's Ch
Chic
hicke
ke
en Singap
ngap
apore
o
ore John
ohn
o h Pau
aul Ca
aul Carmona'
rmona'ss
rmona'
D
Donbur i with Alex
Alex pr
prawn cannnelloni
nelloni
lon
FREE
AUGMENTED Sanche
c z with
h veggiees
REALITY
VIDEO
p 12
126
Manali
a on
FOR
INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO VIEW,
your plate
TURN TO P 11

Available on selected devices: Android version 2.2 and above, iOS version 4.3 and above,
BB version 5.0 and above, Symbian version S60 and above, Windows version 7.5 and above

Augmented Reality video in this issue


90+
T
TRIP
TESTED
T
eat in7eat out7eat away
LE-

RECIPES JUNE 2013


` 100
00
Mumbais newest casual dining
eatery Aoi offers Japanese fare
eat out
restaurant recipe
CHICKEN DONBURI ON VIDEO
Donburi is a Japanese meal-in-a-bowl consisting of
with a twist. Origami-crafted birds
and quirky Manga murals adorn
the interiors. The experimental
yet unpretentious menu boasts
dishes such as gyoza a (dumplings),
Stewed Beef in Red Pepper

India Miso Sauce, Sushi Rice Risotto

Classics
with Brandy-flavoured Newberg
Prawns and Bento boxes. Also
on offer are a variety of sushi
like Crab Sushi with Japanese
Mayonnaise and Chives, and Blue
cooked sticky rice topped with varieties of sh or
Cheese and Asparagus Sushi.

made Signature
g dish meat, grilled or pickled vegetables and eggs. These
lighter Aoi
7Pizza
iz
7Macaron
Macaronii chees
heese
e
Chef Mitesh Rangras shares his recipe
for this hearty Japanese meal in a bowl
salt and pepperr to taste
sugarr a pinch
QThirty minutes before serving,
cook the rice in a rice cooker, pot or a
meals are traditionally served in over-sized stone
7Pr
Prawn curryy
rice bowls also called donburis.
light soy sauce 2 tsp pressure cooker with water and rice
soft boiled eggs 2, sliced vinegar seasoning (the idea is to not
7Shepher
hep d's pie drain the water). Make a dressing for
THE STICKY RICE the pickled carrots with rice vinegar,
7Chocola
Chocolate
Choco te tart
tar Japanese sticky rice 150g sugar and salt. Marinate the carrots
water (or vegetable stock) 300ml well with the dressing and refrigerate
salt to taste for an hour.
Eggl
gless d
desser
esser
es tss Grilled chicken donburi
with teriyaki sauce
rice vinegar 25ml QMake the teriyaki sauce by sauting
the ginger in sesame oil. Add the
Serves 2 Q30 minutes + marinating THE PICKLED CARROTS teriyaki sauce and red miso paste and
Fresh
shhaand
nd zing
zingy
y Q MODERATELY EASY rice vinegarr 200ml cook for 2-3 minutes. Add water, salt,

Thaii sala
sa
s lad
ad
ads sugarr 150g pepper and adjust consistency. You can
p 42

Donburi is a Japanese rice dish with salt 1 tsp also add chopped red chilli. Grill or

At Mumbais contemporary Japanese restaurant


4

meat or veggies cooked and served carrots 80-100g, thinly sliced pan-fry the chicken for 7-8 minutes on
za
ppiz

READER OFFER!
on top of the rice or cooked together. lengthways each side or until cooked. Slice it thinly.
salad

If you dont have Japanese rice you QIn the meantime, heat olive oil in a

30% off on Ritu Dalmia's can substitute it with any other short- THE TERIYAKI SAUCE pan. Add the diced vegetables. Add the
louur
r
i olo

grained glutinous rice. ginger 1 tsp rmer vegetables like carrots at the
new book, Diva Green:
Trico

sesame oil 10ml start and the softer ones like pok choy
A Vegetarian Cookbook

Aoi, Chef Mitesh Rangras has introduced a variation


chicken breast 200g EXCLUSIVE! teriyaki sauce 150ml at the end. Toss for 2-3 minutes. Add
(T&C apply - see p teriyaki sauce 50ml Step-by-step recipe red miso paste 2 tsp salt, sugar, pepper, light soya sauce and
basil 5-6 leaves, chopped Watch this signature salt and pepper to taste toss for 2 more minutes.
EAT OUT EAT AWAY MASTERCLASS
RCLASS garlic 1 tsp, chopped dish come alive on
video! Details
QTo assemble, take a at bowl or a
Aoi's
oi'ss Chick
C kenen Singapore
ore John Pa
Paul
Pau
a Carmona's a ginger 1/2 tsp, chopped
on p 11
QA day before, marinate the chicken pasta plate. Place the cooked rice and
oil 20ml breast with teriyaki sauce, chopped all the other prepared components on
Donburi with Alex prawn cann n lloni
ne loni
lo

on the traditional donburi a Grilled Chicken


mixed vegetables (carrot, broccoli, garlic and ginger and refrigerate top. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds
FREE
AUGMENTED Sanchez with v
veggiees corn, pok choy, zucchini) 30g each, overnight. Remove the chicken from (black and white) and serve hot with
REALITY
VIDEO
p 126 diced the refrigerator and keep aside. extra soy sauce and the teriyaki sauce.
Manali on
FOR
INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO VIEW,
your
ur plate
TURN TO P 11

Donburi with Teriyaki Sauce. To learn how to make


P1 P 107 Signature Dish this classic Japanese home-style dish on video, turn
Scan our cover with the ALIVE Alternatively, scan the Signature to p 107. Deliciously hearty and impressive, be sure
app and watch Chef Mitesh Dish page to watch Rangras to try this Donburi recipe over the weekend.
Rangras live masterclass of Aoi, Chicken Donburi lesson on video.
Mumbais signature recipe.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 11


Privilege Programme goodfoodprivileges.in

HOME RESTA
AURA
ANT OFF
F ERS
S PARTNER UPDATES SHO
OP ONLINE
E ONOMIC ADV
GASTRO VENTURES
S

TRUEBLUE
Contemporary ne dining meets old-world charm at
Indigo, Mumbai. The iconic restaurant, which is housed
in a restored turn-of-the-century bungalow off Colaba
Causeway, offers European-Asian cuisine and has an
expansive bar. Since it opened in 1999, a new menu has
been introduced nearly every year. This years offerings
include Cauliower and Green Garlic Veloute, Baby Beets
with Horseradish Panna Cotta and Pulled Duck Tortellini.
Standout desserts on offer include Chocolate Trufe with
Chevre Mousse and Sour Cherry, Pineapple Upside Down
Cake with Rosemary Ice Cream or Macchiato Brulee.
Two signature dishes, Indigo Lobster Bisque and Broiled
Lobster Tail with Indigos Lobster Risotto have been
retained in the new menu but been given a new lease
of life with contemporary plating and avour proles.
You could also tryy their Sundayy Brunch or p prix xe lunch
available evveryday,
ex
xcept
Sundays.
As you tuck
into your meal,
youu might just
spot a celeb or
two. Ang gelina Jolie
and Brad P Pitt, Chelsea
Clinton and T The Rolling
Stones are just ssome of the
global heavyweightts who have
dined here in the past.

All about BBC Good Food Indias Privilege Programme


At BBC Good Food India a, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a kings feast. Which is why when you
subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers.
You can swing by over 150 hand-picked ne dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on
fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and ne wines or pick up
fancy chefs paraphernalia for the kitchen and bar. To savour this lavish offer, visit goodfoodprivileges.in.

To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to mags.timesgroup.com/good-food.html


12 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013
rst bite
news, trends, shopping

OA CRACKERS
QUIN

FL
AX
S
CKER

SEE
D CRA
OATMEAL CRA

CKERS
What a
CRACKER
OF AN IDEA!
These crunchy winners are proof that healthy is anything but boring
Recipes AMIT PAMNANI
Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

Crisp,
yet low
in fat, these
crackers are
easy to rustle up
with your choice of
uber healthy ours,
S
ER

herbs, grain, spices and


RA

CK

GI seeds. Made with either


CR A
AC wholewheat our or multigrain I CR
KE atta
a and extra virgin olive oil, they TH
RS score top marks for being good for ME
you. (Recipes overleaf)
rst bite
news, trends, shopping

Snack attack
Our guilt-free munchies allow you to binge till the cows come home

Methi crackers Oatmeal crackers


Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes + Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes +
baking QEASY baking QEASY

Make a dough with 200g multigrain Make a dough with 100g oats, 100g
atta, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp sugar, wholewheat atta, a pinch of salt,
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, 2 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp cinnamon powder,
chopped green chillies, 1 tsp chopped 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and 1/2 cup
ginger, 1 tsp jeera, 1 tsp chilli powder, water. Let it rest for 30 minutes.
1/2 cup chopped methi and 1/2 cup Repeat the same baking process as used
water. Let it rest for 30 minutes. for the methi crackers.
Preheat the oven to 175C. Take a
baking tray and turn it upside down. Quinoa crackers
Put the dough on the back of the tray. Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes +
Roll it thinly like a chapatti on the tray. baking QEASY
This will avoid any breakage. Brush
with a little olive oil on top. Cut into Cook 1/4 cup quinoa with 1/2 cup boiling
desired shapes. Bake for 20 minutes water for 15 minutes on a slow ame until
until crisp and golden. Cool. Store in an it resembles pearls. Make a dough with
airtight container. 100g wholewheat atta, cooked quinoa, 1
tbsp black pepper, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp
Ragi crackers sugar, 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and
Makes approx 3 dozen Q 45 minutes + 1/2 cup water. Let it rest for 30 minutes.
baking QEASY Repeat the same baking process as used
for the methi crackers.
Make a dough with 150g ragi flour, TIP
50g multigrain atta, 5 tbsp extra Spinach dip QUse your
virgin olive oil, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY imagination while
sugar, 1 tbsp white sesame seeds, cutting the crackers
1 tsp black sesame seeds and 1/2 Blend together 1 garlic clove, 5 tbsp create different
cup water. Let it rest for 30 minutes. cream cheese, 5 tbsp toasted almonds, shapes and sizes,
Repeat the same baking process as 1/2 cup blanched spinach, or just roll them
used for the methi crackers. 2 tbsp chopped coriander, 3 tbsp lime up to make sticks.
juice, 2 tbsp olive oil, a pinch of salt, a QMake these
Flaxseed crackers pinch of grated nutmeg and 1 tbsp curd crackers a part
Makes approx 3 dozen Q45 minutes + until smooth. of an impressive
baking QEASY cheeseboard with
Beetroot dip relishes like onion
Make a dough with 200g wholewheat Serves 6 Q20 minutes QEASY jam and chilli
atta, 4 tbsp flaxseeds, 5 tbsp extra marmalade. You
virgin olive oil, a pinch of salt, 1 tbsp Boil 400g beetroot in a pressure cooker. could even pair
sugar, 1 tbsp dried mixed herbs, Cool and peel. Blend together 2 garlic these crackers
5 tbsp grated parmesan and 1/2 cup cloves, 1 tbsp olive oil, 1/2 cup curd, a with innovative
water. Let it rest for 30 minutes. pinch of salt, a handful of mint leaves, and healthy dips
Repeat the same baking process as 8-10 curry leaves, 2 tbsp chopped onion, like beetroot and
used for the methi crackers. 2 green chillies and the cooked beetroot spinach pt.
to a smooth dip.
lowdown on
the definitivelavours, trend this summe
Get st culinary f s and it r
edib s
le
coo les

Words
KAINAZ CONTRACTOR,
VIDYA BALACHANDER
Illustrations
SVABHU KOHLI
1
Greek yoghurt
The Greeks have perfected their own version of
dahi drained of whey; it is rich, thick and creamy,
particularly well suited to a tzatziki dip but just as
good with a drizzle of honey on top. So far, hung
curd was the closest approximation of Greek
yoghurt available on Indian shores. Although thick
and less watery than dahi, hung curd is still not a
patch on Greek yoghurt, especially in the texture
department. The lusciousness of Greek yoghurt is its
USP, and now you can dig your spoon into a jarful,
courtesy of Himalya Fresh, which has introduced
the international favourite in India. It is available in

2
three avours: plain, honey ginger and honey lemon
chilli. Although Greek yoghurt has been available on
supermarket shelves for a while, the locally produced
kind is likely to make a smaller dent in your wallet.
Greek yoghurt is also known as labneh in the Middle
East. To try homemade labneh, see Ritu Dalmias
recipe on p 58.
Yuzu
The Japanese yuzu is more than just an
exorbitant fruit that resembles a tangerine. Its
the puckering fruitiness of this Japanese citron
with undertones of grapefruit, lemon and
mandarin orange, which lends the soy-based
ponzu dipping sauce its sharp and complex
avour.While the juice is used primarily as a
seasoning (like lemon juice), it is the fragrant,
yellow-orange rind that is used to accent
vegetables, custard-based desserts and sh.
Although it is virtually impossible to get
fresh yuzu in India, the bottled juice is
nearly as good and undoubtedly more
convenient. It comes at a price, but this
ones for keeps as one drop is all it takes to get
addicted to its oral citrus fragrance and brisk
tartness.Wasabi by Morimoto in Mumbai
and Delhi have been using it in nearly all
their carpaccios while Megu in Delhi offers
a contemporary spin with itsYuzu Crme
Photograph DAVID MUNNS

Brule. So does yuzu have what it takes to


become the next wasabi? We say yes!
need to know
food trends

3
Regional with a twist
Until now, the only way to uncover the best of Indian cuisine
was to prise free the culinary secrets from the home kitchens of
various communities from across the country. But thanks to a
few pioneering restaurants that have taken it upon themselves to
represent Indian regional cuisine, you dont have to go through
so much trouble to sate your curiosity. For instance, Royal Sindh
in Mumbai offers hearty Sindhi specialities like Sindhi kadhi,
aloo tuk and dal pakwan. We also welcome the trend of regional
Indian restaurants giving traditional favourites a modern spin
take Bong Bong in Mumbai, which features a novel take on
Bengali staples with dishes like Mango Pickle Steamed Fish,
Broccoli and Mango Pickle Envelopes and baby potatoes
slathered with Bengali panch phoran. Ayurveda-inspired dishes
get a nod in at Chennais Royal Vega, which serves dishes like
Photograph MYLES NEW

The keema pav Hara Mung Mewa, or whole green mung cooked in buttermilk,
at Dishoom, London soured with unripe mango and topped with popped lotus seeds.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 17


5
Seed and nut
butters
Yes we know butter makes anything taste better,
but lets face it, the bad press it gets isnt baseless.
Thats why we urge you to embrace the latest
buttery trend thats making waves butters made
from nuts and seeds. Besides offering a nutty bite,
vegan-friendly cashew, almond, hazelnut and
macadamia nut butters are chock-full of heart-
healthy monounsaturated or good fats such as
oleic acid. Also a repository of good fats, sunower,
pumpkin and sesame seeds help to keep your LDL
or bad cholesterol in check. Being naturally rich
in oils, seed butters also tend to have a pleasant,
creamy texture that makes them perfect to use
as a spread in sandwiches and as quick x salad
dressings. Its easy enough to whip up your own
nut and seed butters, but you can also buy them

4
readymade from brands such as Naturellement in
New salad leaves Auroville (they offer peanut, almond and sesame
Its about time insipid iceberg was deposed as the king of butters) and Sains Market (sunower seed butter).
lettuce and salads turned over a new leaf.Were thrilled Sains Market seed butters are available online at
our salads are being graced with leaves that have more gourmetco.in, ` 495 for 200g
character and personality from beautiful red radicchio (or
Italian chicory) with a hint of bitterness to less punchy but
just as pretty watercress, and from curly endive to versatile
Chinese lettuce that tastes just as good raw as grilled. Not
only are these lettuce leaves nding their place on posh
restaurant menus, they are also making a mark in vegetable
markets. If you, like us, think iceberg is just another name
for crunchy water, seek out these lesser known but much
more avourful and interesting leaves.
Try Trikayas readymade salad with endive, radicchio and
rocket leaves, ` 60
Photograph CORBIS
need to know
food trends

6
Ceviche
If international culinary trend predictions are to be taken seriously, 2012 was touted as the year of ceviche in particular, and Peruvian food
in general. India is still waiting for a full-edged Peruvian restaurant but we have noticed a build-up of curiosity in online food forums about
ceviche. Restaurant menus across the country are also offering a smattering of this citrus-cured seafood dish.To the uninitiated, ceviche in
its most elementary form is thinly sliced or diced raw sh marinated in the citric juices of lime, orange or lemon and perked up with onions
and chillies (the authentic recipe calls for the South American Aji Amarillo).Whats most fascinating about the dish and whats caught
everyones attention is that even though its technically uncooked, you cant tell as the acid causes the shs esh to become rm, as if
cooked.We cant get enough of ceviches sensationally fresh avour and suggest you make this your go-to salad this summer.
Photograph PHILLIP WEBB
7
Mignardises
(mini desserts)
We love the thrill and anticipation that follows a
plateful of mini desserts. Offering a seductive peek
into the ptisseries specialities, these bite-sized
calorie bombs encourage multiple tastings.Weve
been noticing a resurgence of this retro French
tradition in dessert shops across the country.
Mignardisee comes from the French word for
precious or cute and these tiny treats are proving to
be all that and more. At Chennais luxe patisserie,
Ecstasy, Mini Rochers y off the dessert shelf while
in Mumbai, Icing on Top specialises in downsized
beauties such as cakelettes, tartlets, mini whoopee
pies and cake pops.We cant get enough of LOpera
Delhis assortment of mini desserts, which includes
the superlative mille feuille and the decadent
chocolate clair. Be warned though an open box
of mignardisess is an empty box.

8
Frozen berries
There was a time when we would mournfully ip through pages of recipe books, all
because those luscious raspberries and blackberries that adorned tarts and cheesecakes
were nowhere to be found in India. Cut to today were happily making up for lost time,
thanks to frozen blackberries, blueberries and raspberries, easily available at gourmet
th
sstores. Berry purists can roll their eyes, but were all for substituting natures
ccandy with the frozen kind when making crumbles, pies and smoothies. The
freezing process may diminish the plump, sun-kissed look we associate
with fresh summer berries. But what frozen berries lack in
w
attractiveness, they more than make up for with their razor-
sharp avours.
Delishhs range of frozen berries are available at all Foodhall and
Godrej Natures Basket outlets

20 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


need to know
food trends

10
Pinterest
Uploading photos of food you can feast
your eyes on to Instagram is so 2012.The
au courant visual medium to share your
food lust is Pinterest. A lot less intrusive
than Facebook and a lot more vivid than
Twitter, Pinterest is a social media outlet
that functions like a virtual soft board it
lets you upload or pin photos and videos
of your choice on to boards, categorised
according to themes, and also re-pin
photos that others have uploaded that
appeal to your sensibilities. Pinterest is
especially apt in the context of food after
all, who isnt partial to easy-on-the-eyes
food? Besides, photos featured on blogs
are conveniently linked to the blogs
themselves so that you can try out the
recipes as well.Whats best?You can stay

9
as private as your like and let your photos
do all the talking.

Sandwich bars
The mega trend of gourmet sandwiches has spawned a mini-trend of
sorts: the sandwich bar.We love the doughy parcels of indulgence at
sandwich bars ranging from casual, post-college hangouts like Mumbais
Between Breads to eclectic ones like Delhis Edwards Sandwich Bar
Deli & Artisanal Shop. Like most comfort food, this beloved staple has also
undergone an exciting gourmet transformation.With international breads,
exotic condiments and ingenious llings, creative sandwich makers are pushing
the denition of what constitutes a sandwich.When youre craving something
familiar, sink your teeth into Between Breads deliciously meaty and juicy
Philly Cheesesteak Sandwich. For a DIY sandwich experience, look no
further than Edwards drool-worthy artisanal deli counter, bountiful
Photograph MYLES NEW

with meats, cheeses and treats like bacon jam, homemade mustard and
pickles. Now thats wichcraft for you.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 21


need to know
news, trends, shopping

CUPBOARD LOVE
THE JURYS OUT WASABI PASTE
Stinky fruit How to use up
THE CASE FOR THE CASE AGAINST 7Avocado prawns in wasabi
How can anyone hold a grudge My case against foul-smelling dressing For the dressing, mix 2
against stinky fruit? Once you fruit virtually makes itself. tsp wasabi paste, 4 tbsp olive
get past the smell, there are so Slit open a muskmelon or a oil, 2 tbsp lime juice and 1 tsp
many delightful things about jackfruit and the intense odour honey y in a bowl. Season and
them, be it their avour, their that wafts out takes me to the keep aside. Scoop out the esh of
texture or their versatility. I same place as smelly socks. 2 avocadoes. Mix 250g cooked prawns
cant wait for summer Adding chunks of durian to with the dressing. Pile the prawn mixture and the avocado into serving
to get my hands on a salad might sound exotic, bowls and top with watercress and lime wedges. Serve.
jackfruit. Not only but did you know that 7Salmon with wasabi mayo Heat the oven to 140C. Place 2 salmon
does the fruit itself the spiky southeast fillets on a baking tray and smear 1 tsp miso paste on top. Scatter 1
taste awesome, it Asian fruit doubles tbsp sesame seeds and bake for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, mix 1 1/2 tbsp
can just as easily be as a mosquito wasabi paste with 2 tbsp mayonnaise and serve it with the salmon.
transformed into a repellent? I balk 7Wasabi salmon with cucumber salad Rub both sides of 2 salmon
delicious biryani or at the very fillets with 1 tsp oil and 1 tbsp wasabi paste. To make
kul. Even the lure thought of the salad, mix 1/2 chopped cucumber, 1 sliced red chilli,
of an almost-ripe but a chopped 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar, salt, pepper, 1 tsp golden
still crunchy guava, papaya and caster sugar and 2 tsp poppy seeds together. Mix well
which some people refrigerating until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Grill the sh for
nd strong smelling, is hard it is even 5-6 minutes. Serve with the salad and some steamed rice.
to resist. Ditto with papaya I worse it takes 7Soy tuna with wasabi mash Combine 3 tbsp soy
nd myself digging into a bowl days to get rid of the smell. sauce, 1 tbsp rice wine vinegarr and 1 tbsp caster sugar.
whenever I crave something You might argue that these Pour the mixture over 2 tuna steaks and let it stand for
sweet. Fruitcakes who cant bear overpowering fruit impart 20 minutes. Heat 100ml milk k in a pan and add 2 tsp
sharp smells lose out on some distinctiveness to a dish, but all wasabi paste. Add 500g mashed potatoes and 1 sliced
of the most fabulous food ever. youre left with is a disgusting spring onion. Keep warm. Heat a griddle pan until hot.
Why give the nose so much stench. I cannot help but raise Remove the tuna from the marinade. Cook on each side
importance? a stink! for 3 minutes until seared. Serve with the mash.
-PRIYANKA HOSANGADI -KHORSHED DEBOO 7Try S&B Foods available at gourmet stores like
Foodhall, ` 250 for 43g.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP
Pop into the supermarket for a quick weekday meal

+
+ =
+ +
TOTAL CO
ST
Pumpkin and porcini open ravioli Serves 2 Q25 minutes Q EASY ` 343
Photograph GARETH MORGANS
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE

Steam some chopped pumpkin (` (` 15/500g) until tender. Soak Epicure porcini mushrooms (` (` 40/25g) for 10 minutes, drain and fry in some olive oil
with a handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley (`(` 5/20g) then add the pumpkin and gently crush. Slice 4 Barilla lasagne sheets (`(` 198/300g) in half and
drop individual squares into a pot of boiling water until cooked. Layer the lasagne sheets with porcini and pumpkin and nish with some more chopped
parsley and shavings of Zanetti Grana Padano (` (` 85/50g).

22 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


need to know
news, trends, shopping

NEW TRICKS CARBONARA OBJECT OF DESIRE TAGINE


Turn an old favourite you feel completely confident making into a A tagine may look simple enough to rustle up but the devil is in the
brand new dish by tweaking the flavours. details and surprisingly, the type of tagine (the pot used to prepare
Carbonara is one of the simplest and, lets face it, richest, pasta sauces a tagine is also called tagine) used. Food stalls in the souks of North
and also one of the easiest to tweak. While eggs and bacon form the Africa use traditional clay-based, heavy pots, which lend a certain
mainstay of a true carbonara, theres no reason not to use a slug of depth of avour to stews. While getting your hands on a traditional
cream or crme frache for ease. Vegetarian versions work well with one is impractical, this glazed stoneware tagine from England-
grated courgette or peas instead of the pancetta, and a grating of lemon based Mason Cash does the job
or sprinkle of herbs adds interest. You could also try using skinned and equally well. This utilitarian pot
nely crumbled Italian sausage instead of pancetta, along with a good comes with a conical lid and
dose of chopped parsley and copious amounts of black pepper. can be used in the oven and
microwave too. Moreover, the
striking purple colour sits
pretty in your
kitchen.
PHOTOGRAPH LARA HOLMES

Available
from
zansaar.com from
` 2,695 onwards.

TABLE HOPPING Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block
CASUAL

CLASSY
COOL

MAMAGOTO, MUMBAI ROLLMAAL, DELHI NIDO, MUMBAI


The capitals much-loved Asian eatery has At this replica of a highway dhaba, almost The folks behind Mumbais lavish Aurus have
now set up shop in Mumbai. The walls at everything spells kitschy, from the rolling pins set up Nido (which means nest in Italian), an
Mamagotos Bandra outpost are splashed with on the walls and the bright upholstery to the all-day European ne dining establishment.
vibrant murals exhibiting Manga-like tigers and loud Bollywood soundtrack from the 90s and With monochromatic yet mismatched chairs,
pandas, akin to its older sibling in Delhi. With servers dressed as dabbawallas. This quirky vintage tiles, a wood-carved bar and French
a diverse list of unusual cocktails, the laidback dine-in specialises in juicy rolls with a spin, windows, the restaurant has splashes of colour.
restaurant is synonymous with meal-in-a-bowl besides doosra maal like biryanis, Jalandhar Some of the offerings include atbreads
dishes. We recommend the crunchy Som chicken makhani and pindi channa. Custom with toppings like herbal hummus, prosciutto
Tam Salad, Chiang Mai Train Station Noodles, make your own roll or try the Chettinad Southy and duck, a range of small plates, pastas and
Fiery Thai Shrimp Rice and the moist Caramel Mind It roll, the Bandra Vada Pav or Rollus risottos. The high tea comprising sandwiches,
Sponge Cake with Toffee Sauce. Keema Pav all served with choorma papad. tea cakes and scones has us excited. All this
Gazebo House, Hill Road, Bandra; Tel: +91 22 28-A, Below Caf Mocha, Defence Colony goodness, however, comes at a steep price.
30932030. Also at R City Mall, Ghatkopar Market; Tel: +91 11 30146022 21, Union Park, Khar; Tel: +91 9820031250

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 23


need to know
news, trends, shopping

FRESH ON COCKTAIL
THE SHELVES OF THE MONTH
Whats new in Lemon casa rita
supermarkets this month? Serves 1 Q10 minutes QEASY

RUSTICHELLA Pour 50ml tequila, 15ml


DABRUZZO Cointreau, 30ml fresh lemon
` 998 for 500g juice, 10ml fresh lime juice
The name is quite a mouthful, and 40ml sugar syrup into a
but the small, round, boondi-like shaker. Add a handful of ice and
pasta in this packet will denitely shake for 15 seconds before
delight you. More like sago pearls straining over cubed ice in a

Recipe courtesy cantinalaredo.com Photograph DAVID MUNNS


than the pasta shapes were salt-rimmed glass (rub the rim
accustomed to eating, this pasta with lime flesh, then dip in salt).
known as fregola from Sardinia Serve immediately.
in Italy is made of semolina. We
tried it in a dry dish with garlic,
basil and grated grana padano
on top. While it was tasty, we
recommend using it to add some
texture to a soup instead. At
nearly ` 1,000, it is steep so use this
pasta judiciously.

MASTERFOODS
LEMON BUTTER
` 100 for 280g
This lemon butter has
a slightly gelatinous
consistency but spreads
easily on toast. It is neither
too acidic nor too sweet
but its mildness suggests
you are more likely to
relish it on croissants or scones than on thick
toasted bread. The sunshine yellow condiment
is also handy for baking and is delicious
smeared on teacakes.

MASUYA MISO
HOME ON THE ROAM
INSTANT MISO SOUP Weve seen a sudden surge in the popularity of restaurants dishing out Indian
` 250 for 10 single serve packets regional cuisine and unassuming home-style food. This has made us wonder whether
The next time you are craving a grandmas secret heirloom recipes or those rustled up by the household help or
snack at work, snip open a packet of maharaj will now nally get their due. Enter Gypsy Kitchen a food and heritage
this instant miso soup. Simply empty conservation initiative jointly spearheaded by Impresario Handmade Restaurants
the contents of the sachet into a Riyaaz Amlani and Chef Gresham Fernandes and Ayaz Basrai of The Busride Design
cup and top it up with a little over a Studio. Launched in May this year, the project teams up with home cooks to offer
glass of boiling water. The result is soul-satisfying ghar ka khana in Mumbai through a pop-up format. Were hoping
an umami-packed yet mild soup that this caravan nds its way to other regions of the country too. So the next time you
is both lling and deeply satisfying. stumble upon handwritten recipes on food-stained pages, preserve them. Better still,
Add some snipped spring onions visit facebook.com/pages/GypsyKitchen those recipes are worth revealing.
for extra texture and crunch.

24 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


need to know
pantry basics

ON TEST Energy bars


Packed with oats, seeds, fruit and nuts, energy bars make the ideal power snack. We put five on trial
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHREYA GUPTA

GAIA NOURISH ORGANICS


` 30/30G ` 70/ 30G
Gaias granola bar reminds us of a deeply synthetic chocolate energy bar gone Compact and
bad. Crumbly and distasteful, each wheat ake and rolled oat is coated in the concentrated in avour,
powdery chocolate and makes us cringe with every nibble. The bar completely
p this energy bar does not
disintegrates after a bite and were left with a mess of chocolate covered distract with oats or rice
oat akes, barely distinguishable raisins and cornakes, all of which leave an crisps. Instead, it gets
LOVES unpleasant, mouth-coating aftertaste. right down to business
y with a dense and healthy
NATURE VALLEY ` 20/ 25G slab packed with dates,
Nature Valleys granola bar WEIGHT WATCHERS ` 395/ 136G apple and cinnamon.
delivers on most counts. The This energy bar has a chocolate base, is Marketed as an apple
slab of oat akes and rice crisps studded with golden apricots, almonds and rice and cinnamon bar, were
tightly packed together is a crisps and still manages to be low fat. But our surprised to nd the
delicious snack in itself and one happiness is short lived after we encounter a overriding avour of
bite is enough to satiate sugar bar that doesnt travel well. Even though we try dates (25 per cent) as
cravings. The whole blueberries it within its expiry date, this Australian import opposed to apples, which
and cranberries add to the has lost its crunch and has an unpleasant odour. incidentally constitute
sweetness but in a wholesome only 13 per cent of the
way. As advertised on the pack, bar. At ` 70 for a bar, we
the bar is chewy and retains its RITE BITE ` 22/ 27G suggest reserving this
crunch until the last rice crispy Rite Bites bar is likely to appeal to your wholesome and natural
has popped on our tongues. inner health buff. Advertised as sugar fruit, nut and seed bar for
However, we feel less euphoric free with just 99 calories per bar, this one is a treat for ravenous evenings.
about our bar once we nd that those counting calories. Packed with rice crisps and studded with the
it has the highest sugar content occasional cashewnut and raisin, this apple and cinnamon avoured bar isnt
(11 per cent), surpassing even the least bit synthetic. Our only grouse is the blink-and-miss quantity of oat
the bars with chocolate. akes, which should be higher considering their high bre claims.

Whisks
LOVES
y ROSTI MEPAL WIRE
MASTRAD
TRAD SILICONE E BALLOON WHISK
BALLOON WHISK ` 85 850 ` 850 METAL TWIRL WHISK ` 50
Of all the whisk shapes available,
ilable With numerous intertwining wires lending Mostly used by us to whisk
hi k eggs for
f
the balloon whisk is the most commonly used it its balloon shape, this whisk shape is uffy omelettes, we are yet to nd another
in kitchens. We nd this silicone whisk to be considered superior for when you want to get use for the metal twirl whisk. This whisk has
the most functional with a strong-grip handle the most air into the food. As advertised, this a single wire coiled in concentric circles that
and a light body, which aids when you want to all-purpose whisk does the job of beating air acts as a spring. If you like a lot of foam in
whip at an increased speed. The protruding into any liquid, be it eggs or cream. The metal everything, this is your go-to whisk. It may
wire, which acts as a hook, prevents the whisk body adds to the weight of the whisk, which not have much use in our larder, but we love
from sliding down and remains conveniently adversely affects our whipping speed, but it that we can shove its exible spring whisk
attached to the bowl in between use. makes this whisk efcient and easy to clean. into any narrow cup or bowl.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 25


need to know
news, trends, shopping

BARGAINHUNTER
All prices
PER HEAD
excluding taxes
and travel
d tracks down this months top foodie events, meals and deals
Good Food
Words KHORSHED DEBOO

7 ` 205-A-HEAD DINNER
PARTY FOR FOUR! 7 ` 400 KEBAB FEST AT THE
CROWN, CHENNAI
Those seeking to line
their stomachs before
embarking on a night of
binge drinking, rejoice!
Perched on the 20th storey
of The Residency Towers,
The Crowns tailor-made
deal, rightly called Kebabs
Galore allows you to
customise your own kebab
platter. On offer are a
variety of kebabs ranging
from the traditional Awadhi
7 Vietnamese prawn salad (p 50) ` 564 galouti kebab and the
succulent Murgh Charga
7 Veggie Thai curry (p 64) ` 127 Lahori Kebab chicken
7 Plum fro yo (p 86) ` 126 marinated with cashewnut paste, to the vegetarian Palak aur Hare
Mattar ki Shammi Kebab and the Makkai aur Paneer ke Tawa Kebab.
Lap up the breathtaking view of the citys skyline at dusk as you
Total ` 817
contemplate what platter to order next.
(`` 205 per head) Tel: +91 44 39922666 (ext: 135); 6 pm onwards

7 ` 750 NORTHERN ITALIAN


LUNCH AT SERAFINA,
MUMBAI
7 ` 600 LAZY SUNDAY BBQ
BRUNCH AT HERBS AND
SPICE, BENGALURU
Its not very often Brunches offering ubiquitous
that we come Indian-Chinese-Continental
across a meal so fare have been done to death.
superlative that it Were informing you well in
doesnt warrant advance about an exclusive
dessert in the barbecue brunch so you dont
end that too blame us if you miss out.
at a price that Make the most of popular
doesnt burn a hole bistro and gig venue Herbs
in your pocket. and Spices latest VFM deal.
Thats precisely The all-you-can-eat brunch
why we love includes prawn skewers,
New York-based Italian restaurant Seranas ongoing lunch deal. beer-battered calamari, pork
The four-course lunch includes a choice between home-style soup chops, roast pork, chicken
and bruschetta, followed by salads such as Mista Verde, Arugula E wings, grilled sh, chargrilled
Parmigiano or the signature Chicken Salad. For the third course, you pork sausages, meat or cottage
can pick from wood-red pizzas like the Napoletana, the Marinara or cheese steaks, mini beef and
the Mediterrana, and round off your meal with entres such as sliders chicken burgers. We arent done yet. There are mini pork pizzas,
and a range of pastas. Tel: +91 22 40237711; Monday to Thursday hand-tossed salads, signature pastas and a variety of cakes too.
12 pm 4 pm Tel: +91 80 25290399; Sundays 12.30 pm 3 pm

26 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


BBC GoodFood 27
need to know
laal maat
With a surprisingly mellow flavour that belies their jewel-red colour, laal
maat or amaranth leaves are a worthy addition to your diet

Words ANUSHRUTI RK Photograph BHARAT BHIRANGI

O
f all the edible leaves amaranth has oval leaves with deep red to have a leafy vegetable on the side.
available in the vegetable veins running through it. According Here, it is known as lal shaak and
market, the vibrant to Harold McGees On Food And is cooked with a seasoning of panch
colours of amaranth or Cooking:The Science And Lore Of the phoran (the Bengali ve spice mix) in
Amaranthus dubius, also known as red Kitchen, the plant pigments responsible mustard oil. In Maharashtra and Goa,
spinach, Chinese spinach or yin choy for colouring these leaves are red and laal maat or tambdi bhaji is cooked
(in Chinese) stand out in particular. yellow betaines, which also colour other with a simple seasoning and garnished
Red spinach is a member of the plant vividly hued vegetables such as beets with lots of coconut. The treatment
family Amaranthaceae, which includes and chards. Betaines are important is again different in Tamil Nadu,
nearly 2,500 species ranging from nutrients as they regulate several of the where amaranth leaves are steamed
spinach to beetroot to grains such as bodys chemical functions. and mashed with a light seasoning of
amaranth and quinoa. Belonging to The red amaranth plant is streaked salt, red chillies and cumin to make a
the Amaranthus genus, red spinach all over with splashes of red and purple. popular dish called keerai masiyal.
is nearly identical to its green cousin Slightly acerbic and crunchy when In Karnataka, where it grows
Amaranthus viridis, also known as raw, the leaves soften and tone down abundantly, locals widely use these
slender amaranth. in avour when cooked, acquiring a leaves (known as rajgiri or kempu
It is difficult to trace the origins rich, smooth and earthy texture in the harave soppu) to make preparations
of the leaves but renowned food process. The young leaves and stems like huli (a dal and vegetable curry-like
historian KT Achaya writes in his of red amaranth are used raw in salads preparation eaten with rice), palya
book, A Historical Companion To Indian in southeast Asia. Mature leaves are (a dry vegetable curry) and majjige
Food, that the Amaranthus tricolour, a extensively used in stir-fries across huli (a sour and spicy curd-based
salad leaf in beautiful hues of green, Malaysia, Indonesia, India, Vietnam preparation). It is also used in Kerala
cuisine to make cheera aviyal, in which
The mild, earthy flavour of the leaves the stems and leaves of red spinach are
used to make a tangy curry eaten with
makes them perfect in salads, pasta rice, as well as coconut-laced thoran.
sauces, sandwiches and wraps. Once Being such a versatile ingredient,
red spinach is also increasingly nding
washed, they can be used in stir-fries or its place in contemporary cooking. The
sauted and served with grilled fish mild, earthy avour of the leaves makes
them perfect in salads, pasta sauces,
pink, brownish red and bright red, is and China, using very few spices and sandwiches and wraps. The leaves can
probably of Indian origin. Being closely embellishments to highlight the hearty be used in stir-fries or simply sauted
related to red spinach, its likely that avour and tender, chewy texture of and served with grilled sh. They also
the latter has also been used in Indian the leaves. Betaines impart a beautiful, make a great stuffing for ravioli.
cuisine for a long time. ruby-red hue to the dish, which makes Red spinach has seen a renewed
Unrelated to spinach but known it even more attractive. interest among health acionados in
to contain thrice the calcium and ve Red spinach is much loved in recent times. Cooked amaranth leaves
times the niacin content of spinach, red Bengal where a traditional meal has are a good source of vitamin C, vitamin

28 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


spotlight
amaranth

A, iron and other essential minerals,


besides being low in calories. To
prevent the loss of nutrients, its best
if they are not overcooked but added
right in the end while making soups
and stews. They are also the perfect
garnish, adding colour to any dish.
Much before red spinach was
commercially cultivated, people in
south India would go to great lengths
to procure it from the forests. Whether
cooked simply or in more elaborate
preparations, the unpretentious, mild
avour and slightly gritty yet succulent
texture of the leaves is sure to leave a
mark in your memory.

Fettucine with laal


maat, blue cheese and
walnuts
Serve 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

Recipe AMIT PAMNANI

Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a pan, add


2 tbsp chopped onions and 1 tsp
chopped garlic. Saut till the onions
become translucent. Add 50g of cleaned,
washed and chopped laal maat leaves
and mix well. Add 1/2 cup of red wine
and simmer until the wine is reduced
to half. Add 1 cup of cream, 1 tbsp of
chopped oregano, salt and pepper. Put
100g boiled fettuccine in the cream
sauce and toss well. Add 1 tbsp grated
parmesan cheese and 1 tbsp chopped
parsley. Put the fettuccine in a serving
plate, top with blobs of blue cheese and
sprinkle 1 tbsp toasted walnuts on top.
SUGAR
A llove ffor sugar runs deep
about it? BBC Good Food
d in our national
d finds out
t l DNA but
b t is itt time
t to
t be
b alarmed
l d

Words SUMANA MUKHERJEE


Photograph THE FOOD PASSIONATES/CORBIS
need to know
food issues
o sweet! we gush glucose, found in grains and vegetables; itself: If you were to gnaw one, youd
over a young fructose, found in fruits and honey; need to tear off a bit, chew it thoroughly
child. As a term lactose, found in milk; and sucrose, to draw out the sweet juice and spit out
of endearment, found in nuts, fruits and vegetables. the rest as too brous. The bre slows
honey apparently dates back to Legend has it that sugarcane a down the release of sugar contained in
medieval times. The snarky arm candy plant native to South and South East fruits and veggies, thereby acting more
is of more recent vintage. Sweet is the Asia was rst tapped for its sweet gently on the metabolic system than,
rst taste we learn to recognise, with content on the Indian subcontinent in say, a spoonful of sugar.
many Indian communities prescribing 500 BC. Crystallised sugar, too, is said All carbohydrates, explains Dr
kheerr or payesh, desserts made of rice to have been made in India during Ambrish Mithal, chairman and head of
cooked in milk with gurr or sugar, as the Gupta age. Though processes the department of endocrinology and
a childs rst solid food. No birthday may have changed vastly since then, diabetes at Medanta Medicity, Gurgaon
is complete without cake or kheer; sugarcane (and, to a lesser extent are classied according to ho ow quickly
no grand dinner ordered without the and mostly in the US and EU, sugar they raise blood sugar levels. This is the
exhortation to save room for dessert. beet) continues to be the source of all glycaemic index. Rened sugar causes
Sugar is ubiquitous in our life in rened sugar. blood sugar to spike very quickly,
other ways as well. India is the worlds In nutritional terms, more than 99 indicating a high glycaemic index.
second largest producer of sugar, per cent of cane sugar (the product Fruits offer much more (than only
employing some 50 million farmers of sugarcane) is sucrose, says Dr V sucrose), including healthy starches like
and 5 lakh workers in sugar mills. It is Suude
d rshan Rao, assistant director of cellulose, and so have a minimal effect
also the worlds largest consumer of the National Institute of Nutrition, on blood sugar.
sugar, to the extent that a forecast of a Hyderabad. It also has 0.1 per cent In knowledgeable circles, there has
drop in production in India as is the protein and very small think 12mg never been much debate about the
case for the 2013-14 season leads to per 100g quantities of calcium. fact that rened sugar equates empty
speculation of a rise in global prices of Rened sucrose is a compositee calories. Which begs the question: Why
raw sugar. of equal proportions of glucose and do we consume sugar at all?
So how much sugar does India fructose. While almost every cell in the
consume in a year? According to a human body can process glucose into TONGUE TWISTER
Reuters report, the demand for the fuel, fructose can be broken down only The short answer is quick energy. As
current year is about 23 million tonnes with considerable effort by the liver a pure carb, says clinical nutritionist
(the European Union comes next with (See box below). Rekha Sharma, one gram of sugar
16-16.6 5 million tonnes). Moreover, while sucrose is present yields four calories. Stirred into a glass
Thatt is a lot of sugar but more in varying degrees in all fruits and of nimbu pani or added to a cup of tea
noteworthy t e fact that demand
h is th vegetables as a result of photosynthesis, or coffee, a spoonful of sugar (4-8g,
is growing. Be B tween 19 989
8 andn 2009, it doesnt exist in isolation: It is packed depending on the size of the crystals,
sugar consumption more than doubleed
su with vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients or 16-32 calories) is quickly absorbed
in India and it is projected to touch and, most importantly, with bre. and provides a shot of energy. Just
3 millilion
31 o tonnes by 2020-21. Ad dd to Consider the humble stalk of sugarcane what you seem to need on a hot
that
th at the fac
a t th
t at sugar is an expensive
comm
co mmod
mm odity, with a distinctly hig
od gher
upptake
ke in ci
c ti
ties, compared to the LUSTIG AND THE BITTER TRUTH
hinter
errla
land
n . A 2009 survey put the per If theres any good news at all in the sugar story in India, its the absence of an
capi
p taa con
onsu
sumptiion
su n of sugar at 5.11k
1 g/ added sugar called high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS). Introduced as a healthy
mont
mo n h/
h/uurba
ban hous u ehold; the gure for alternative to sugar in the West in the mid-1970s, HFCS has now become
ruraal housuseh
seh
e olds wass 2.2kg. the villain of the piece. Renowned endocrinologist Robert Lustig created a
S ou
Sh uld we be wor o ried about our major stir in 2009 by labelling sugar an outright poison. He dismisses any
depe
peend
nden
ence on th
en thee sweet stuff? distinction between sugar and HFCS, pointing out that the body metabolises
them in exactly the same way. His core argument against sugar centres on
SWEE
SWEET
EET TALK how the liver breaks down rened fructose and a resultant state called leptin
Thou
Th o gh most co
ou commonly associated resistance. Also known as the satiety hormone, leptin is supposed to send a
with
with the
h granu nula
l r white substance we full signal to the brain. However, a fructose overload, Lustig says, can impair
bu
uy from m grocers and supermarketts, s the hormones signalling power, leading to high insulin production, blood
sugarr is a generic term for na
n turally sugar crashes, diabetes, obesity and all the related ailments. Watch Lustig
occuurr
r ing chemical compounds of make his point in this YouTube video: youtube.com/watch?v=dBnniua6-oM.
the carbohyd y rate family. They includ
u e
need to know
food issues

FAQs
How much sugar can I consume safely?
None, says Dr Mithal. Sugar is not a nutrient required by the body so
we cannot advise an optimal amount. The National Institute of Nutrition,
however, is slightly more relaxed: Its dietary guidelines allow for 20g of sugar
(around 5 teaspoons) per day for the healthy Indian man/woman. However,
as Dr Rao points out, this quota includes sugar in processed and packaged
food as well and so the average intake is frequently much more than the
prescription. The bottom line, though, is that the human body converts all
carbs into sugar, which more than fullls physical needs. Anything more than
what the body requires is stored as fat.

Are brown sugar, shakkar, jaggery (gur) or honey better options?


Honey is perhaps only marginally better than white sugar; though sweeter
and more caloric, it contains a few more trace minerals. The rest, including
various brown sugars such as demerara, are products of sugarcane. If
white sugar is the most rened, cane jaggery and shakkar are the least so,
retaining some of the molasses that are cast out during the rening process.
Palm jaggery, sourced from the sap of certain palm trees, is another low-
rened option. A spoonful of palm or cane jaggery has about 12 calories, a
little less than white sugar.
Photograph TETRA IMAGES/CORBIS

How can I guard against ingesting excess sugar?


Besides restricting sugar added to cereals, beverages and home-cooked
foods, read labels of all packaged food, especially imported products and
drinks. Sugar may be included as sucrose (or any sugar molecule ending in
-ose), honey, malt sugar, molasses, raw sugar etc. Indian food regulations also
allow non-caloric sweeteners such as saccharine, aspartame, sucralose etc.

summers day or during a post-lunch This is precisely the area that has problems diabetes, mainly, but
brainstorming session. epidemiologists and nutritionists also cancer and heart disease. High
Sugar has other uses as well: It acts worried: added sugars, which refers consumption of sugar can increase
as food for yeast in the fermentation to both the sugar present in processed triglycerides and also cause obesity.
of breads and alcohols, increases the and packaged foods, and sugar that Sugar may also produce an acidic
lifespan of jams and fruit preserves, we add to food and drinks made in milieu in our body and lead to calcium
and even provides bulk and body to the domestic kitchen, more so because depletion, resulting in weak bones and
ice creams. None of which, of course, sugar is known to be mildly addictive. tooth decay.
serves any nutritive purpose. Between the two, it is much harder to If you think this is just scare
So if you arent a professional keep a check on stealth-sugar, present mongering, consider this: 51 million
sportsperson or a marathoner who may in a range of packaged foodstuff, Indians suffer from diabetes, giving the
get energy-depleted, the raison detre of from breakfast cereals and biscuits to country the dubious honour of being
added sugar comes down to one thing ketchup and so-called healthy snacks. the diabetes capital of the world. The
only: taste. Cultivated over millennia, The biggest concern of increased gure is expected to rise to 80 million
the liking for sugar now stands at an sugar consumption, says Sharma, is the by 2025, according to the Diabetes
all-time high, so much so that farmers impact on children. The 2009 survey, Foundation of India. Sure, an endemic
in the West are trying to grow sweeter which she authored, for instance, sweet tooth is not the only reason for
fruits. In India, sugar has an insidious mentions a worryingly high incidence these numbers but it meshes in well
association with good times. Almost of high-energy food consumption with contributory lifestyle factors
75 per cent of the sugar available in patterns (chips, French fries, pizzas, physical inactivity, changing diets
the open market is snapped up by colas) and abdominal obesity among and genetic peculiarities such as high
patisseries, halwais, ice cream and soft school children. insulin resistance, high abdominal
drink companies, mostly all purveyors Dr Mithal is more brutal: Rened adiposity etc. In conclusion, yes, we
of urban treats. sugar is responsible for many health have every reason to be worried.

32 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


need to know
wellbeing

The hea
Brown rice
B
Brown rice is easier to co
ook than white, says nutrition expert
Natalie Savona. It also has a deliciously nutty flavour and is a
much healthier option

WHAT IS BROWN RICE? cancer; lignans appear to


It is (almost) rice as nature intended d, help protect against
as it retains its bran layer and its gerrm hormone-related
(the embryo of the plant, which is cancers; while
packed with nutrients). However, white sterols help
rice is stripped of both in the renin ng to reduce
process. Both types of rice lose their cholesterol.
rough outer husks, but brown is stilll
more substantial and slightly chewier. HOW
OFTEN
WHY IS IT GOOD FOR ME? SHOULD
Brown rice is a whole grain, so it I EAT IT?
retains all its nutritional benets. Byy Its estimated that half
comparison, the processing of whitee of the worlds population
rice strips away many of the nutrien nts eats rice at least once, and as much
the grains go through a milling an nd as three times a day. So there seems
polishing process during which theyy to be no limit. We have a wide choice Brown rice stir-fry with coriander
lose around 90 per cent of the vitam min of starchy foods, so with other whole omelette
E, 80 per cent of the vitamin B1 an nd grains and starchy vegetables, brown Serves 4 Q45 minutes Q EASY
magnesium, half of the iron and two o- rice can be a regular part of your
thirds of the B3, B6 and bre. weekly menu. Cook 200g brown basmati rice following pack instructions.
Countless research studies have Heat 2 tsp rapeseed oil in a large frying pan. Add 1 tbsp
linked whole grains to lower risks WHAT ELSE SHOULD I KNOW? grated ginger and 3 finely chopped garlic cloves and fry
of heart disease, diabetes, obesity Brown rice is a naturally gluten-free for 1 minute. Tip in a bunch of sliced spring onions, 150g
and certain cancers (especially of alternative to other starchy foods. sliced shiitake mushrooms, 2 sliced carrots and
the digestive tract but also others, Look out for brown basmati rice, the 1 finely sliced red pepper and stir-fry over high heat for
such as breast cancer). There are most aromatic variety, which goes 3-4 minutes. Meanwhile, mix 3 eggs, beaten with a splash
even suggestions that because wholle particularly well with curries and of milk with some coriander, salt and pepper. Heat 1/2
grains have a higher protein-to- stir-fries. Boiled, with spices such as tbsp oil in a non-stick frying pan. Add the egg, stir once,

Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JO HARRIS Food styling VAL BARRETT


carbohydrate ratio, they help to pro otect cinnamon and cardamom, it results then allow to cook over a gentle heat until almost set. Flip
against diabetes and heart disease in lovely aromatic rice. Or splash in and cook on the other side until cooked through. Tip onto a
by moderating the way in which ou ur coconut milk and a few kaffir lime board and cut into strips. Add the drained cooked rice, 2 tsp
bodies respond to food with insulin n. leaves to serve with Thai food. Cook soy sauce, 1 tsp sesame oil and 2 tbsp chilli jam to the
This and the bre are almost certaiinly extra rice at supper to turn into rice vegetables, mixing to heat through. Divide into bowls and
responsible for making brown rice salad for lunch the next day add top with the omelette strips, a few coriander leaves and
more satisfying than white. One stu udy peppers, sweet corn, capers, tomatoes, 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds.
showed that rice bran oil can help p
parsley y and tuna,, then dress with olive QPER SERVING 351 kcals, protein 13g, carbs 50g, fat 13g, sat
lower bad LDL cholesterol. oil and lemon. Because wholegrain rice fat 2g, fibre 4g, sugar 13g, salt 0.73g
Whole grains are also rich in a still has its bran and germ, it contains
range of substances that help to protect oils that can go rancid, so keep an eye TIP To cook brown or basmati rice, place it in simmering
against chronic diseases. Phytate has on its use-by date and store it in an salted water for about 25 minutes until tender 40g of
been linked to a lower risk of colon airtight container. uncooked rice will yield around 100g cooked rice.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 33


need to know
drink up

SUNSHINE DAYS
Max out on the tangy potential of peaches, melons and lemons theyre
at their sweetest best right now

Melon spritzers Peach punch and add 750ml ros wine, the juice of
Serves 6 Q20 minutes QEASY Serves 8 Q10 minutes QEASY 1 1/2 lemons and 150ml peach schnapps.
QWhen ready to serve add plenty of ice
Recipe SARAH COOK Recipe SARA BUENFELD with 1 sliced peach and top up with 1l soda
or tonic to taste.
QPut 500g cantaloupe melon QHeat 4 tbsp caster sugar with the zest QPER SERVING 161 kcals, protein none,
chunks in a blender or food of 1 1/2 lemons and 100ml water until carbs 16g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre none,
processor with the juice of 2 limes the sugar dissolves. Cool, pour into a jug sugar 16g, salt 0.01g
and 100ml apple juice. Whizz to
the smoothest you can get, then
stir in the zest of 2 limes. Chill until
ready to serve.
QTo serve, pour the melon mixture
into a big jug with 250ml chilled
white wine, then add an equal part
of chilled lemonade and stir well.
Thread a few melon balls onto
skewers, if you like, add one to each
glass with some crushed ice, and
top up with the melon spritzer.
QPER SERVING 62 kcals, protein
1g, carbs 8g, fat none, sat fat none,
fibre 1g, sugar 8g, salt 0.1g

Grown-up limeade
Serves 5 Q10 minutes QEASY

QSlice 2 limes and lay the slivers


on a tray and freeze for at least an
hour. Put 10 deseeded, roughly
chopped limes (including the skin)
in the bowl of a food processor or
blender with 200g caster sugar
and 100ml water. Whizz until juicy
and completely broken down.
QPour the mix through a sieve, so
that all the pulpy bits remain and
you have lots of juice. Pour into a
big jug with lots of ice and the lime
slivers, and top up with 1l soda
water. Serve with 30ml vodka or
rum.
Photograph PHILIP WEBB

QPER SERVING 166 kcals, protein


1g, carbs 44g, fat none, sat fat none,
fibre none, sugar 44g, salt 0.11g
need to know
books

books & cooks


The lowdown on this months top foodie reads
Words KHORSHED DEBOO

CLASSIC
FIND

Parsi Food and Customs by


Bhicoo J. Manekshaw
This unpretentious book authored
by the rst Indian to study at
Londons Cordon Bleu is a window
into Zorastrian culture. The late
Kayastha Kitchens through India A Sense for Spice by Tara Bong Moms Cookbook by Manekshaw expounds on customs
by Preeta Mathur Deshpande Tennebaum Sandeepa Mukherjee Datta and religion and how food takes
This compendium brings together In this meticulously crafted book, This book is proof of how little centre stage at every ceremony in
heirloom recipes collected from the author nimbly interweaves non-Bengalis know about the Parsi way of life. The recipes
the once aristocratic Kayastha tales of her childhood and travels traditional Bong food. The are divided into sections, featuring
community famed for its food. with the avours of the Konkan recipes in the book have travelled everything from classic dhansak
Traditional methods such as slow kitchen. The introductory chapter all the way from the authors to Johns Byculla souf and
cooking, broiling and grinding reveals lesser known facts about grandmothers home in Kolkata from topli paneer to an unusual
spices to make masalas form the Konkani community. (Did to her own home in New York. ash gourd murabba. Her unerring
the basis of Kayastha cooking, you know, for instance, that the Dattas debut book is dotted instinct on whats good to serve
which varies signicantly in Konkan is the birthplace of the with amusing anecdotes like guests makes this book exemplary.
different parts of India. The author dosa?) The authors account exchanging recipes with her mum Available from Penguin for ` 499
simplies these methods while still of her grandmas culinary skills over Skype; eating ilish during
retaining classic avours. We tried is particularly endearing and Saraswati Pujo and musings On the Kebab Trail
the Badami Murgh, a wonderfully lends a rustic appeal to the about paanch phoran. Most of the by Monish Gujral
creamy gravy with the added book. Spanning 12 chapters, the recipes are easy to follow, though In this collection
crunch of almonds. Although recipes are so remarkable, we the maachher chop didnt turn of over a hundred
Kayastha cuisine leans heavily in almost overlooked the rather out as crispy as promised. By kebab recipes,
favour of meat, the author includes tepid photographs. However, the end, we had also lost count Turkish Yogurtu
a smattering of interesting the comprehensive glossary of of the number of times chorchori Kebabs and West
vegetarian gems like Dum Karela Konkan cuisine is what deserves (mixed vegetables) is mentioned African Suya Kebabs share space
and spiced yoghurt yam. high praise. in the book. with classics like galouti kebabs,
Available from Roli Books Available from Westland Available from Harper Collins tabak maas and Amritsari sh
for ` 695 for ` 495 for ` 350 kebabs. We tried our hand at the
Pistachio Chicken Kebab, savoured
with a ery red garlic chutney
Try this recipe! and the Sesame Potato Kebabs
Gulabi kheer that were unfortunately a plateful
Serves 6-8 Q40 minutes + freezing QEASY of disappointment. Nonetheless,
the book is sure to nd resonance
Heat 1 tsp ghee in a wok and fry 200g soaked with those looking to assemble an
basmati rice. Boil 1 1/2l milk and pour over the rice. eclectic kebab platter for their
Cook until the milk is reduced to half its quantity and next party.
keep stirring. Add 300g sugar, a pinch of saffron Available from Penguin for ` 299
dissolved in 2 tsp rosewater and 1/2 tsp cardamom
powder. Simmer. Mash the rice well, then add 12 You can buy this months
chopped almonds and 12 rose petals. Chill. books online at flipkart.com
Recipe courtesy KAYASTHA KITCHENS THROUGH INDIA
Photograph SANJAY RAMCHANDRAN and landmarkonthenet.com.

36 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


55 pages of delicious dishes, from lighter curries and zesty
Thai salads to stylish eggless desserts

Thai red chicken


curry p 63

IN THIS ISSUE 7Seven meals for ` 700, p 387Healthy lunchbox ideas, p 45


7Ready in 30-minute dishes, p 46 7Ritu Damia's foolproof veggie recipes, p 54
7Curries made lighter, p 627Zingy Thai salads, p 70
7High-cal classics with a healthy twist, p 77 7Sophisticated eggless desserts, p 84

BBC GoodFood 37
7 meals
for `700 G a weeks worth
Get
of stylish meals from
o
around the world
a
R
Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photographs LARA HOLMES
P

INGREDIENTS
CHECKLIST
h DAVID MUNNS

MONDAY add the tomatoes and stock. Cook for


STORE CUPBOARD Smokyy black bean chilli 10 minutes then add the beans and
Photograph

o ions
on io
onsns soup with lime yoghurt simmer for another 10 minutes. Season
Ph t

garl
ga rlic
rl ic
c Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY to taste.
gree
gr
gree een pe
een pepp
epp
pperer
er QMix the yoghurt with the lime and
SHOPPING BASKET oliv
oliv
ol ivee oioil
il onion 1/2, chopped top the bowl of soup with a spoonful
Gr
Gree
eek
eek yo
yoghu t 25g
ghur
gh
hur g cumi miin n garlic clove 1/2, crushed and some grated cheddar, if you like.
ch

ched
heddarr 1 tbs
edda
da bsp
sp smok
sm oked
ok ed pap prika
rriika
ka green peppercorns 1/2, diced (try Q PER SERVING 259 kcals, protein
pu
pump
umpkiin 175
mpki
k 75g
g chil
ch illi
illi fla
li lakekes
ke s Epicure available at gourmet stores) 15.2g, carbs 20g, fat 13.2g, sat fat 6.5g,
qu

quino 50g
inoa
in
inoa 0g toma
tooma atotoes
es s olive oil 1/2 tbsp fibre 6.6g, salt 0.9g
ed

edam
amam
am
me be ns 50g
bean
ans
an 0 vege
ve g tabl
ge ta
ablb e ststocock k cumin powder a pinch SERVING TIP: Put some tortilla chips
Th
Thai
ai red
ed cu
urrrry
ry paste 1 tb
aste
aste bsp r d on
re nio
ions
ons
ns smoked paprika powder a pinch (try topped with grated cheese in the oven
co
coco
conu
conutt m
nu k 20
miilk 200m
0 l
0m bllack
acck be b anans s Ahumado available at gourmet stores) and bake until melted. Serve with the
ra
 awa
was
s fi
f llet 1
llet l me
li m s chilli flakes a good pinch (try Keya soup.
Fr
Fren
en
nch bea
ans5
ns 50
0g grou
gr o nd
ou dnu ut oioill available at gourmet stores)
co
 ori
rian
ian er a bun
a de
der nch
h sesa
se saame
me oil il tomatoes 100g, chopped
ch

chic
icken
icke
icke
en th gh 1
thig
hig s y sa
so sauc
auc
uce e vegetable stock 200ml TUESDAY
or

o 75g
orzo
rzo 5g giing
g inggere black orr kidney beans 100g, boiled Warm ppumpkin
p and

diilll a bun
d unch
ch fiish
sh sau auce ce
ce salt and pepperr to taste quinoa salad with
q
dr

drie
rie
ied
d yea t 3g
yeas
as basm
ba smat
sm atii rice
at riice
c Greek yoghurt 25g (try Danone or sesame soy dressing
mo
mozz
zzar
zzarrel
arel a 12
ella
ella 125g
25g
5g chic
ch icke
ic ken
ke n st
stocock
oc k Himalya Fresh available at gourmet Serves 1 Q40 minutes Q EASY
ro
rock
cket a hand
cket ha
and
ndful
fu
ul butt
bu tter
ttter
e stores)
av
 voc
ocado 1 sm
ado
ad smal
mal
all
all plai
plai
pl ainn flf our
ou ur lime 1/2, zested + a little juice pumpkin 175g, cut into wedges
h
he
erb
r ed
d sau
usa
sages2
ges
ge re
red
ed wi winene cheddar 1 tbsp, grated, to serve red onion 1/2, cut into thin wedges
sm
mok
oked
ed
ed ba
ac
con
n ras er 1
a he puy
pu uy le lent
ent
n ills (optional) groundnut oil 1 tbsp
po
pole ta 50
lent
le
ent
nta 50g
50g carr
ca rro
rr otts salt and pepper to season
pa
parm
rm san 15
mes 15g
g wor
wo orc
rcesesteters
te rshi
rs hire
iree sau
auce
c
ce QCook the onion, garlic and green quinoa 50g (try Roland available at
ro

ose
ema y a few
m ry ew spr
prig
ig
gs po ota
tatot es
to s peppercorns in oil until softened. Add gourmet stores)
Styling LUIS PERAL Food styling KATE CALDER

th
thym
hyme a few
yme w spr
prig
igs
igs swee
sw eett po
ee potatato
ta toes
to
toes the spices and cook for a minute, then edamame beans 75g, peeled (try
whol
wh
hole
ole mi
ol lk a sp
milk spla
spla
lash
h ba als
lsam
am
amic
mic vin inegeggar Trikaya available at select gourmet
*Recipe costings are based on the
amounts of ingredients used, eg 125g stores)

`69 4 butter is costed at half the price of a 250g sesame oil 1/2 tbsp
pack. The store cupboard ingredients are lemon 1/2, juiced
TOTA L FOR
*
not included in the costing; we assume
soy sauce 1/4 tbsp
7 MEALS that these are consumed daily and do not
need to be specially purchased. ginger a small chunk, nely chopped

38 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
everyday
QPut the pumpkin and onion in a bowl, the pumpkin and onion then whisk
add the oil and seasoning and toss. together the sesame, lemon, soy and
Spread on a non-stick baking dish and ginger and drizzle over the top.
roast for 25-30 minutes until tender. Q PER SERVING 435 kcals, protein
QCook the quinoa following pack 17.9g, carbs 48.9g, fat 17.7g, sat fat 2.6g,
instructions and add the edamame for fibre 8.8g, salt 0.8g
the last 3 minutes of cooking. Drain well. MORE IDEAS: Use basmati rice or
QPlace the quinoa on a plate. Add noodles instead of quinoa.

MAY 2013 BBC GoodFood 39


THURSDAY
One-pot
p chicken with
orzo and dill
Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY

chicken thigh 1, boneless, skinless


chicken stock 250ml
orzo 75g (try Barilla available at
gourmet stores)
dill a small bunch, chopped
butter 15g
lemon 1/2, zested and juiced
salt and pepper to season
lemon wedges to serve

QPut the chicken and stock in a


shallow pan. Bring to a simmer then
cook for 10 minutes. Add the orzo,
put on a lid and cook for another
6-8 minutes or until tender.
QTake out the chicken and shred, then
add back to the pan with the dill, butter
and lemon. Season to taste. Serve extra
lemon wedges on the side.
Q PER SERVING 569 kcals, protein 52g,
carbs 53.5g, fat 16.3g, sat fat 8.3g, fibre
4.2g, salt 1.2g

INGREDIENT TIP
Add extra stock and a handful
of peas to this to turn it into a
hearty soup for four.
WEDNESDAY QHeat the curry paste with a splash of
coconut milk in a shallow pan. Fry the
sh paste for a minute then add the rest
Serves 1 Q20 minutes Q EASY of the coconut milk and simmer for a As a newly wed running out of
ideas, this dish was a lifesaver. I
minute.
couldnt find orzo, so I substituted
Thai red curry paste 1 tbsp (try Blue QAdd the basa and cook for about
the pasta with rice. I cooked the
Elephant available at gourmet stores) 5-7 minutes until just cooked through, chicken and rice in chicken stock
coconut milk 200ml (try Dabur adding the beans for the last minute or and then used dried dill, butter and
available at gourmet stores) so. Stir in the sh sauce, lime juice and salt to add flavour. I added extra
basa fillet 1, skinless coriander. Season to taste and serve lemon juice to make it zingy, but
French beans 50g, blanched with boiled rice and extra lime wedges. the recipe needed more than just
that for my Indian palate, so I also
fish sauce a splash (try Ayam available Q PER SERVING 471 kcals, protein 34g,
added some black pepper. In the
at gourmet stores) carbs 7.3g, fat 34g, sat fat 3.3g, fibre
end, my husband ended up liking it
lime 1/2, juiced 1.9g, salt 1.2g more than I did.
coriander a small bunch, chopped MORE IDEAS: Add a handful of Stuti Dabral works with an airline
salt and pepper to season cooked prawns at the end of cooking as a human resource professional.
basmati rice to serve for an extra-luxurious dish. She loves baking and lives in Delhi.
lime wedges to serve

40 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
everyday
SATURDAY
Braised Italian sausages
with soft polenta
Serves 1 Q45 minutes Q EASY

olive oil 1 tbsp


herbed sausages 2
smoked bacon rasher 1, chopped
onion 1/2, sliced
garlic clove 1/2, crushed
red wine 200ml
rosemary a few sprigs, leaves stripped
tomatoes 50g, chopped
chicken stock 300ml
salt and pepper to season
polenta 50g (try Valsugana available
at gourmet stores)
butter 15g
parmesan 15g, grated (try Zanetti
available at gourmet stores)
FRIDAY QTo make the base, heat the oven to
Tricolour salad pizza 240C. Oil a round baking tray (about QHeat the olive oil in a pan and brown
Serves 2 Q45 minutes + resting 28cm). Mix the our, yeast, salt and the sausages all over. Remove from the
Q EASY sugar in a bowl, then stir in the water. pan. Add the bacon, cook until crisp,
Bring the mixture together and knead then scoop out.

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling JENNY IGGLEDDEN Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE
olive oil 1 tbsp until smooth. Rest the dough for 30 QAdd the onions and cook until soft
garlic clove 1, thinly sliced minutes. Then press the dough into the and golden. Add the garlic and cook
tomatoes 230g, chopped oiled tray. for a minute then add the red wine and
salt and pepper to season QHeat the olive oil in a non-stick cook until reduced by half.
mozzarella 125g, sliced frying pan, add the garlic and cook for QPut back the sausages and bacon
rocket a handful a minute. Add the tomatoes, season, then add the rosemary, tomatoes
avocado 1 small, sliced then cook for 10-15 minutes until and one fourth of the chicken stock.
tomatoes 10 small, halved thickened and reduced. Cool. Simmer for 15 minutes until reduced
balsamic vinegar to nish QSpread a thin layer of the tomato slightly and the sausages are cooked.
sauce over the base, leaving a small Season well.
THE PIZZA BASE border and top with mozzarella. Bake QMake up the polenta following pack
olive oil for greasing for 10-15 minutes until puffed and instructions but using the rest of the
plain flour 100g golden. To serve, scatter over rocket, stock. Beat in the butter and cheese.
dried yeast 3g (try Red Star available avocado, tomatoes, seasoning and a Serve the polenta topped with the
at gourmet stores) drizzle of balsamic. sausages and sauce.
salt a pinch QPER SERVING 523 kcals, protein Q PER SERVING 701 kcals, protein
sugar 1/2 tsp 22.8g, carbs 42.8g, fat 29g, sat fat 12g, 33.2g, carbs 49.9g, fat 38.8g, sat fat
warm water 60ml fibre 5.6g, salt 1.7g 17.8g, fibre 2.7g, salt 3.6g
eat in
everyday

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eat in
everyday
SUNDAY
Veggie shepherds pie
with sweet potato mash
Serves 2 Q1 hour 10 minutes Q EASY

puy lentils or masoor dal 100g,


soaked
vegetable stock 250ml
olive oil 1 tbsp
onion 1, nely chopped
garlic clove 1, crushed
carrot 1, nely diced
tomatoes 200g, chopped
thyme a few sprigs, leaves chopped
Worcestershire sauce a good splash
(try American Garden available at
gourmet stores)
salt and pepper to season
potatoes 125g, peeled and chopped
sweet potatoes 125g, peeled and
chopped
butter 15g
milk a good splash

QCook the lentils in the stock in a


covered saucepan, about 25 minutes.
Drain, saving about one fourth of the
liquid.
QHeat the olive oil in a pan and cook
the onion and garlic until softened.
Add the carrot and cook on a medium
heat for about 2 minutes. Add the
tomatoes, thyme and Worcestershire
sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes then stir
in the lentils and reserved liquid and
cook for 5 minutes. Season to taste.
QBoil the potato and sweet potato
until very tender then drain and mash
with the butter and a splash of milk.
Season to taste.
QHeat the oven to 200C. Place the
lentil mix in an ovenproof dish. Top
with the potato mash then bake for
30 minutes until the top is golden.
Q PER SERVING 259 kcals, protein
15.2g, carbs 20g, fat 13.2g, sat fat 6.5g,
fibre 6.6g, salt 0.9g
FOR A LIST
OF STORES
THAT STOCK INGREDIENT TIP
GOURMET Add mild curry powder and
INGREDIENTS,
TURN TO P 135 chopped coriander to the mash for
a spicier pie.

44 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
lunchbox

Fast Fresh
Pack a nutritious lunch with these quick and easy recipes
Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph WILL HEAP

Bulgur and broad bean olives down the centre of each warm 5-10 minutes until the couscous has
salad with zesty dressing tortilla. Spread 2 tbsp hummus on the absorbed the stock. Allow to cool. Toss
Serves 2 Q25 minutes QEASY top and sides of the tortilla. Fold in the through the zest and juice of 1 lemon,
sides and roll up tightly. Cut in half 1 chopped, roasted red pepper, 25g
QCook 100g bulgur wheat following and pack. flaked, toasted almonds and a few
pack instructions, adding 170g broad Q PER SERVING 297 kcals, protein 10g, mint leaves. Spoon into a box, then top
beans for the nal 2 minutes. Cool carbs 25g, fat 18g, sat fat 5g, fibre 3g, with 2 tbsp yoghurt and a drizzle of
under cold running water, drain well, sugar none, salt 2.08g harissa.
then toss with 12 halved snap peas, Q PER SERVING 317 kcals, protein 14g,
8 thin slices of radish and 1 thinly Spicy couscous salad carbs 41g, fat 12g, sat fat 1g, fibre 5g,
sliced red onion. Serves 2 Q10 minutes QEASY sugar 4g, salt 1.14g
QFor the dressing, whisk together the
zest and juice of 2 limes, 1 chopped QTip 100g couscous and 220g Favourite pasta salad
red chilli, 2 tbsp olive oil, 2 tsp white boiled and drained chickpeas into Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY
wine vinegar and2 tsp honey with salt a bowl and pour over 100ml hot
and pepper. Toss it through the salad chicken stock. Cover and leave for QCook 250g farfalle pasta, according
and scatter with mint leaves. to packet instructions. Add 140g green
Q PER SERVING 343 kcals, protein 17g, peas in the nal 2 minutes of cooking.
carbs 62g, fat 13g, sat fat 2g, fibre 11g, Drain, rinse with cold water, then drain
sugar 16g, salt 0.1g again. Tip into a bowl with 1 tbsp
chopped parsley and chives, the zest
Greek salad wraps and juice of 1 lemon, 2 tbsp olive oil,
Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY salt and pepper and mix well.
Q PER SERVING 292 kcals, protein
QRoughly chop 1 large tomato, cut 10g, carbs 51g, fat 7g, sat fat 1g,
1 cucumber into sticks and split and fibre 4g, sugar 3g,
stone 6 olives. Heat 2 large soft salt 0.02g
tortillas on a griddle pan for a minute,
then ip over and heat. The tortillas will
be slightly charred in places. Make a row
of the tomato, cucumber, 25g feta and

Styling POLLY WEBB WILSON Food styling KATY GREENWOOD

Bulgur and broad bean


salad with zesty dressing
Ready
in 30
Escape the weekly cooking rut with these zingy winners

Garlicky prawns QHeat the olive oil in a frying pan.


with sherry Tip in the garlic and cook for a few
Serves 6 Q10 minutes QEASY seconds. Then stir through the prawns
and cook for a couple of minutes until
olive oil 3 tbsp they start to turn pink. Season well.
garlic cloves 2, thinly sliced QPour over the sherry and cook for a
prawns 400g large, uncooked REALLY few minutes more, just until the prawns
salt and pepper to season REALLY are cooked through. Sprinkle with
EASY
dry sherry 2 tbsp parsley before serving.
flat-leaf parsley a handful, chopped QPER SERVING 108 kcals, protein 12g,
carbs none, fat 6g, sat fat 1g, fibre 1g,
sugar none, salt 0.34g

Photograph LIS PARSONS


eat in
everyday

Crab-stuffed avocadoes QFlake the crabmeat into a small bowl.


Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY (If using canned meat, squeeze the
water completely.) Mix in the mustard
white crabmeat 100g (try Bumble Bee and oil, then season to taste. Add the
available at gourmet stores) basil and chilli just before serving.
dijon mustard 1 tsp (try Roland QTo serve, halve and stone the
available at gourmet stores) REALLY avocadoes. Fill each cavity with a
olive oil 2 tbsp REALLY quarter of the crab mix, scatter with a
QUICK
salt and pepper to taste few of the smaller basil leaves and eat
basil leaves a handful, shredded, with with teaspoons.
a few of the smaller leaves left whole, QPER SERVING 204 kcals, protein 6g,
to serve carbs 2g, fat 19g, sat fat 2g, fibre 2g,
red chilli 1, deseeded and chopped sugar 1g, salt 0.41g
avocadoes 2
Photograph LIS PARSONS
coriander, jalapeos and lime wedges.
Add a shake of hot sauce, if you like
it spicy.
QPER SERVING 297 kcals, protein 33g,
carbs 8g, fat 15g, sat fat 3g, fibre 5g,
sugar 7g, salt 1.5g

Mexican bean salad


Serves 6 Q20 minutes QEASY

eggs 4
avocadoes 2, peeled and stoned
kidney beans 800g, boiled and
drained
VEG IT red onion 1 small, nely sliced
Use paneer coriander a large bunch, leaves only,
instead of the roughly chopped
salmon cherry tomatoes 250g, halved
red chilli 1, deseeded and nely sliced
cumin powder 1/2 tsp
salt and pepper to season

THE LIME AND CORIANDER


DRESSING
lime 2, juiced
coriander 2 tsp, nely chopped
extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp
caster sugar a pinch (try Tate & Lyle
available at gourmet stores)
salt and pepper to season

QLower the eggs into boiling water


and boil for 6 1/2 minutes, then put into
Grilled salmon tacos green cabbage 1/4 small, nely a bowl of cold water to cool. Slice the
with chipotle lime shredded avocadoes and place in a large bowl
yoghurt coriander a small bunch, picked with the beans, onion, coriander and

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph LIS PARSONS Styling JENNIFER JOYCE Food styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY into sprigs tomatoes.
jalapeos a handful, sliced QMake the dressing by mixing all the
garlic salt 1 tsp (try Roland available at lime wedges to serve ingredients together.
gourmet stores) hot chilli sauce to serve (optional) QPut the dressing into a small bowl,
smoked paprika powder 2 tbsp (try then mix in the chilli and cumin.
Ahumado available at gourmet stores) QRub the garlic salt, paprika, sugar Once the eggs have cooled but are
sugar a good pinch and some seasoning into the esh of still warm, peel off the shells and cut
salt and pepper to season the salmon llet. Heat grill to high. into quarters. Toss the salad with the
salmon fillet 500g QMix the yoghurt, chipotle paste and dressing and nestle in the eggs. Season
yoghurt 200ml lime juice together in a bowl with some and serve straightaway.
chipotle paste 1 tbsp (try El Paso seasoning and set aside. Place the QPER SERVING 286 kcals, protein 13g,
available at gourmet stores) salmon on a baking tray lined with foil carbs 17g, fat 19g, sat fat 2g, fibre 7g,
lime 1, juiced and grill, skin-side down, for about 7-8 sugar 4g, salt 1.07g
minutes until cooked through. Remove
TO SERVE from the grill.
soft flour tortillas 8 small, warmed QFlake the salmon into large chunks
(try Old El Paso available at gourmet and serve with the warmed tortillas,
stores) chipotle yoghurt, shredded cabbage,

48 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
everyday
Flatbread pizzas
Serves 5 Q15 minutes QEASY

pita breads 5
feta 75g, crumbled (try Apetina
available at gourmet stores)
dill sprigs a handful
rocket leaves 200g
pomegranate seeds 100g
red onion 1, thinly sliced
olive oil 1 tsp

THE HUMMUS
chickpeas 400g, boiled and drained
lemon 1, juiced
garlic clove 1, crushed
ground cumin 1/2 tsp
salt and pepperr to season
extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp

QTo make the hummus, blitz the


chickpeas, half the lemon juice, garlic,
cumin and some seasoning in a food
processor, adding a few tablespoons of
water with extra virgin olive oil to get a
spreadable consistency.
QWarm the pita breads, then spread
the hummus over them evenly. Scatter
the feta cheese, dill and half the rocket,
pomegranate and onion.
QMix together the remaining rocket,
pomegranate and onion. Toss through
the remaining lemon juice, olive oil and
any juice from the pomegranate seeds.
Vietnamese prawn spring onions 6, shredded Serve the pizzas with the salad.
salad coriander or mint leaves a handful QPER SERVING 369 kcals, protein 18g,
Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY peanuts 1 tbsp, roasted and chopped carbs 63g, fat 8g, sat fat 2g, fibre 5g,
sugar 8g, salt 1.9g
THE DRESSING QTo make the dressing, mash the
garlic clove 1 small, nely chopped garlic, chilli and sugar using a pestle
red chilli 1 small, deseeded and nely and mortar. Add the lime juice, Ive never been a fan of salty and
sweet combinations in a dish,
chopped seasoning and 3 tbsp water and stir
but this recipe has converted
golden caster sugar 1 tbsp (try Tate & together. Set aside.
me. The sweet pomegranate
Lyle available at gourmet stores) QPut the noodles into a bowl and seeds complemented the creamy
limes 2, juiced cover them with boiling water. Leave to hummus and salty feta. I used
salt and pepperr to season stand for 10 minutes until tender, then coriander and lettuce instead of dill
drain and divide between 2 bowls. and rocket. I also added toppings
Recipe GIZZI ERSKINE Photograph JON WHITAKER

THE SALAD QMix the prawns and vegetables like tomato and olives and they
tasted equally good. The next time
rice noodles 250g (try Blue Elephant together and divide between the bowls.
I make this, I may add barbecue or
available at gourmet stores) Top each salad with the herbs and
pizza sauce and would experiment
tiger prawns 150g, cooked, halved peanuts, then pour over the dressing with more toppings.
along their spine to serve. Soniya Goel is a human resource
cucumber 1/2, peeled, deseeded and QPER SERVING 379 kcals, protein 27g, professional and a cooking
cut into matchsticks carbs 93g, fat 4g, sat fat 1g, fibre 2g, enthusiast who lives in Chennai.
carrot 1, cut into matchsticks or grated sugar 14g, salt 1.66g

50 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
everyday

INGREDIENT TIP
While soaking the dried
chickpeas, add a generous
pinch of bicarbonate of
soda so that the skins
come off easily after
boiling. Rinse thoroughly
before boiling.
Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph YUKI SUGIURA Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LUCY NETHERTON
Oaty sh and
prawn gratins
Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

spinach 340g, roughly chopped


salt and pepper to season
tomatoes 400g, chopped and
seasoned with garlic and herbs
white fish fillets (rawas or basa)
225g, chopped into large chunks
basil a small bunch, shredded
prawns 100g, cooked and peeled
parmesan 2 tbsp, nely grated
breadcrumbs 2 tbsp
oats 2 tbsp
broccoli 170g, boiled or steamed,
to serve

QPut the spinach in a large colander

Recipe JUSTINE PATTISON Photograph JON WHITAKER Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling JUSTINE PATTISON
Italian stuffed courgettes QHeat the oven to 220C. Place the and pour over boiling water. Once cool
Serves 4 Q30 minutes QEASY courgettes in a single layer in a shallow enough to handle, squeeze out any
ovenproof dish, tightly together, cut- excess water, then season.
courgettes 4, halved lengthways side up. Brush lightly with 1 tsp oil and QTip the tomatoes into a frying pan
extra virgin olive oil 3 tsp bake for 20 minutes. with some seasoning and simmer for
mixed salad leaves (arugula, baby QTo make the stufng, mix all the 5 minutes to thicken. Add the sh and
spinach, watercress) to serve ingredients together in a bowl and heat for 1-2 minutes it doesnt need
season with lots of black pepper. to be fully cooked at this point. Stir in
THE STUFFING QSprinkle the stufng on top of the basil.
white breadcrumbs 50g, dried the courgettes and drizzle with the QHeat the oven to 220C. Divide
pine nuts 50g remaining olive oil. Bake for a further the spinach, sh, prawns and tomato
spring onions 6, trimmed and nely 10 minutes or until the courgettes are sauce between 2 gratin dishes. Mix
sliced softened and the topping is golden and the parmesan, breadcrumbs and oats
garlic clove 1, crushed crisp. Serve hot with a mixed salad. together and sprinkle over the top.
sundried tomatoes in oil 6, drained QPER SERVING 244 kcals, protein 10g, Bake for 20 minutes until golden and
(try Sacla available at gourmet stores) carbs 14g, fat 17g, sat fat 3g, fibre 3g, bubbling. Serve with broccoli.
thyme 1 tbsp sugar 5g, salt 0.5g QPER SERVING 359 kcals, protein 48g,
parmesan 25g, nely grated carbs 27g, fat 6g, sat fat 2g, fibre 8g,
salt and black pepper to season sugar 9g, salt 3.4g

52 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Recipe LUCY NETHERTON Photograph YUKI SUGIURA Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling LUCY NETHERTON

Baking
Grilling
Barbeque...
everyday
eat in
FROM
EAST
TO
Veg gets an edge as Ritu Dalmia shares her favourite
meat-free recipes from around the world. From
papaya curry to labneh, heres the diva at her best
Recipes RITU DALMIA Photographs ANSHIKA VERMA

WEST

Papaya curry
(recipe on p 56)
eat in
modern veggie
Writing Diva Green has made me fall in love with veggie food
again, reminding me of the magic simple vegetables can create.
However, these recipes cannot be used by vegetarians who do
not eat eggs or are strict about eating European cheeses with
rennet, an animal product used in the production of cheese. The
recipes here are straightforward and quick; no fuss, just great
food I love to cook.
- Chef Ritu Dalmia

Glass noodles,
asparagus and
papaya salad
(recipe overleaf)
Papaya curry tempering over the curry and serve right the dressing and chill in the fridge for
Serves 2 Q50 minutes Q EASY away with rice or parottas. 20-30 minutes, allowing the avours to
QPER SERVING 315.5 kcals, protein get absorbed. Garnish with remaining
Prima Kurian, a former gallerist, is a 5.45g, carbs 24.3g, fat 23.25g, sat fat 15g, melon seeds, fried onions and chives.
woman of many talents. She is also a fibre 6g, salt 0.3g QPER SERVING 313 kcals, protein
home caterer, and every time I eat the 6.25g, carbs 34.25g, fat 17.8g, sat fat
Syrian Christian food she cooks, I die Glass noodles, asparagus 1.9g, fibre 11.85g, salt none
and go to heaven. The first time she and papaya salad
was catering for me, she insisted I try Serves 2 Q40 minutes + chilling Baba ghanoush
this papaya curry. I turned my nose Q EASY Serves 4 Q45 minutes Q EASY
up in the air and said, Papaya curry?
Not really! But she did not take no I have used glass noodles in this salad, There are at least a million recipes for
for an answer and sent me a bowl of it but you could use udon noodles, which baba ghannouj or, as it is better known,
anyway. Ever since that first mouthful, taste great in a cold salad. Alternatively, baba ghanoush. In my restaurant
this is one of my favourite dishes to you could just omit the noodles and do a I change the recipe every year
order from her. healthy version with just asparagus and depending on the latest version I have
green papaya. tasted and liked the most! Following my
coconut 1/4 cup, grated trip to Jordan, where I got the chance
green chillies 2, cut lengthwise asparagus 200g to taste yet another delicious version,
turmeric powder 1/2 tsp green papaya 150g, peeled and thickly this one is my new standardised recipe.
garlic cloves 2 grated or julienned
yoghurt 3/4 cup melon seeds 2 tbsp, dried eggplants 2 medium
raw papaya 1 cup, peeled, deseeded basil leaves a handful, roughly torn green pepper 1, cubed
and cubed glass noodles 50g, soaked in warm tomato 1 medium, cubed
salt to season water (try Blue Dragon available at onion 1 tbsp, chopped
gourmet stores) garlic cloves 1/2 tsp, crushed
THE TEMPERING walnuts 1 tbsp, chopped
coconut oil 1 tsp THE DRESSING almonds 1 tbsp, slivered
refined vegetable oil 1 tbsp fresh coconut water 60ml parsley a handful, nely chopped
red chillies 4, dried lime juice 2 tsp mint leaves a handful
fresh green chilli 1, cut lengthwise rice vinegar 1 tsp (try Cirio available at extra virgin olive oil 25ml
cumin seeds 1/2 tsp gourmet stores) salt to season
mustard seeds 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp sumac to season (try Al Fez available
fenugreek seeds 1 tsp red chilli 1, deseeded and nely chopped at gourmet stores)
baby onions 1/4 cup, sliced limes 2, juiced
curry leaves a handful THE GARNISH pomegranate molasses 2 tbsp
oil for deep frying
Q Using a food processor or a mortar onion 1 medium, sliced QRoast the eggplant, skin intact, over
and pestle, make a ne paste of the chives 4 tbsp, chopped INGREDIENT an open ame. Wash it under running
coconut, green chillies, turmeric and TIP In case water to get rid of the charred skin
garlic. If required add a couple of QHeat the oil in a wok and fry the onion pomegranate and remove the seeded portions. Keep
tablespoons of water. Using a fork, whip for the garnish until golden brown. molasses is aside. Chop the esh of the roasted
the yoghurt with the paste till they are Remove with a slotted spoon onto paper not available, eggplant till it resembles a rough pure.
mixed well. towels to drain the excess oil. Keep aside. take 1 litre QIn a dry bowl mix the eggplant,
QSteam the papaya for about 10 QBoil water in a pan and blanch the pomegranate the pepper, tomato, onion, garlic and
minutes until tender yet rm. Add the asparagus for a minute or two. Once juice and heat the nuts. Add the parsley and mint.
papaya to the yoghurt mix, and cook it has cooled, make long strips with a in a pan on a Season with olive oil, salt and sumac.
it over low heat for about 10 minutes, potato peeler. In a mixing bowl, combine slow ame. Squeeze in the lime juice. Mix well and
stirring continuously so as to prevent it the asparagus, papaya, 1 1/2 tbsp melon Let it reduce to give it a bit of sweetness add the
from curdling. Season with salt. seeds and basil leaves. Drain the glass till it becomes pomegranate molasses. Mix well again.
QIn a small frying pan, heat both the noodles, and add to the asparagus 100ml. Cool and Serve with warm bread.
oils, add the red chillies, green chilli, mixture. Mix well. store for up to 4 QPER SERVING 218.25 kcals, protein
cumin seeds, mustard seeds, fenugreek QIn another bowl, whisk together all months bottled 5.45g, carbs 30.08g, fat 10.8g, sat fat
seeds, baby onions and curry leaves the ingredients for the dressing till the in a refrigerator. 1.25g, fibre 9.63g, salt 0.1g
till they start sputtering. Pour the sugar dissolves. Toss the salad with

56 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
modern veggie
lime 1, juiced
parsley a handful, chopped
salt and pepper to season
goats cheese 50g, crumbled

QBoil the potatoes in salted water for


about 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted
spoon. In the same water boil the baby
onions for about 10 minutes, drain and
keep aside.
QIn a non-stick pan, toast the walnuts
over medium heat and keep aside. In
the same pan, heat the butter, add the
brown sugar, and when it becomes dark
in colour, toss in the potatoes and the
onions. Remove from heat.
QIn a bowl, mix the potatoes, baby
onions, spring onions, walnuts and raisins.
Drizzle with lime juice and chopped
parsley and mix again. Season with salt
and pepper. Garnish with crumbled goat
cheese and serve.
QPER SERVING 625.5 kcals, protein
14.4g, carbs 101.75g, fat 22.8g, sat fat
11.95g, fibre 6.75g, salt 1g

Jordanian-style labneh
Serves 4 Q 15 minutes Q EASY

In case you dont find rocket, try this


recipe with radish leaves. It tastes just as
fabulous.

hung yoghurt 2 cups (hung for at least


2 hours)
almonds 1 tbsp, slivered
extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp
garlic cloves 1/2 tsp, minced
rocket leaves a handful, roughly
chopped
mint a handful, roughly chopped
parsley a handful, roughly chopped
salt and sumac to season (try Al Fez
available at gourmet stores)
mint a few sprigs, to garnish

Warm caramelised baby potatoes 500g, washed, QIn a bowl, combine the yoghurt, almond
potato and onion salad scrubbed clean and halved slivers, olive oil, garlic, rocket leaves, mint
Serves 2 Q50 minutes Q EASY baby onions 250g, peeled and cleaned and parsley. Season with salt and sumac.
walnuts 1/2 cup, roughly chopped Mix well. Garnish with a sprig of mint and
This potato salad is my favourite pick- butter 25g serve in a shallow serving dish along with
me-up and the perfect antidote for brown sugar 4 tsp (try Tate & Lyle cucumber sticks or pita bread.
cheerless days. It also tastes very good available at gourmet stores) QPER SERVING 120.5 kcals, protein 4.15g,
without the goats cheese. You could spring onions 2, nely chopped carbs 5.73g, fat 8.9g, sat fat 1.15g, fibre
also add some artichokes if you wish. raisins 2 tbsp, soaked in water 0.60g, salt 0.1g
eat in
modern veggie
butter 4 tbsp + extra for greasing,
INGREDIENT softened
TIP The recipe all-purpose flour 1 cup + extra for
on the blog does dusting
not use ginger sugar 1/2 cup + extra for sprinkling
and golden egg 1 or egg replacer powderr 2 tsp
syrup, but I nd baking powder 1/2 tsp
the syrup adds baking soda a pinch
moisture and buttermilk 1/2 cup
gives the cake salt a pinch
a lot of texture. golden syrup orr honey 2 tbsp
If you do not ginger 1/2 tsp, grated
have pears, you pears 2, peeled and thinly sliced
could make
this cake with QPrepare an 8-inch iron skillet by
apples or even rubbing it with butter and dusting with
strawberries. If our. If you dont have an iron skillet,
youre a strict use a 9-inch baking pan. Pre-heat the
vegetarian, oven to 180C. In a bowl, beat the
substitue 1 egg butter and sugar together till pale and
with 2 tsp of uffy. Add the egg/ egg replacer, and
Organs Egg beat once again.
Replacer powder. QIn a separate bowl, sift the our,
Peruvian-style
y cheese and chillies until soft. baking powder and baking soda.
dip with sliced potatoes QPut this mixture in a blender along Add this to the egg mixture, and
Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY with feta cheese, milk, biscuits, salt incorporate the buttermilk. Combine
and pepper. Pour the remaining oil everything.
The original recipe calls for yellow slowly, with the blender running. You QAdd the salt, golden syrup or honey
potatoes and yellow chillies in Peru, should get a thick, creamy sauce. and ginger, and mix well. Pour the
but since neither is easily available, Ive Season with salt and pepper, and let it batter in the prepared skillet (or baking
come up with my own version of this cool at room temperature. pan) and spread the pear slices over
wonderful dish. The dip can also be QLay the potatoes in a single layer it like a fan. Sprinkle it with sugar and
used as a filling for jacket potatoes. on a at platter and top them with bake in the oven for 35-40 minutes.
the cheese sauce. Once cooked, let it cool. Serve in
vegetable oil 50ml QGarnish with sliced black olives and wedges with unsweetened clotted
yellow bell peppers 4, cubed into 1cm parsley, and serve with some rocket cream.
pieces leaves or lettuce. QPER SERVING 820.5 kcals, protein
onions 2, nely chopped QPER SERVING 830 kcals, protein 11.95g, carbs 138.2g, fat 26.55g, sat fat
garlic cloves 2, minced 20.25g, carbs 100.75g, fat 40.45g, sat 15.9g, fibre 7.15g, salt 0.5g
red chillies 2, deseeded and nely fat 11.9g, fibre 12g, salt 0.4g
chopped
feta 100g Pear skillet cake
k 1 cup
milk Serves 4 Q1 hour 10 minutes
Monaco biscuits 6 Q EASY EXCLUSIVE! The super chef returns
salt and pepperr to season GOOD FOOD
READER OFFER!
potatoes 4, boiled, peeled and sliced One of my favourite food blogs is
into 12cm thick discs Always with Butterr not only are the Visit bit.ly/1568Gdx on
rocket or lettuce leaves to serve pictures great, but the name too is ipkart.com to avail of a
after my heart. I read it often, not so 30 per cent discount on DIVA GREEN
A vegetarian Cookbook
THE GARNISH much for the recipes themselves as Ritu Dalmias Diva Green:
black olives 8-10, sliced for the general content; it is really A Vegetarian Cookbookk, Ritu Dalmia
y a handful, roughly chopped
parsley beautifully written and makes me feel published by Hachette
warm inside. This recipe is inspired by India. Offer valid until Photographs by
A N S H I K A VA R M A

QIn a frying pan, heat a tablespoon of one of the posts by Julie Marie Craig, 30th June 2013.
oil and saut the peppers, onions, garlic creator of Always with Butter.

60 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
modern veggie
ter curr
h i
Lig

es
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling SARAH BIRKS Food styling CAROL TENNANT
Slu

l
rfu
rp

aw ou
ay lav
on
the tlyf
n
new rillia
b
wav
e of c se yet
urriesthe low on grea
yre

Thai red chicken curry


eat
eat in
week
weekend
kennd
Thai red chicken curry
Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY

Half-fat coconut milk, lots of vegetables


and lean chicken breast cut the fat.

half-fat coconut milk 400ml


Thai red curry paste 2-3 tbsp (try Blue
Elephant available at gourmet stores)
French beans 100g, halved lengthways
baby corn 100g, halved lengthways
chicken breasts 2 skinless, sliced
cherry tomatoes 150g
salt to season
steamed rice to serve

QHeat 2 tbsp of coconut milk in a wok.


Add the paste and cook for 3-4 minutes.
Add the rest of the coconut milk and
simmer for a minute. Add the beans and
baby corn and simmer for 2 minutes,
then add the chicken and tomatoes,
and cook until the chicken is tender and
tomatoes just burst. Season to taste.
Serve with steamed rice.
Q PER SERVING 170 kcals, protein 17.1g,
carbs 4.8g, fat 9.1g, sat fat 6.5g, fibre
2.2g, salt 0.4g

Lighter Massaman
curry
Serves 4 Q1 hour 10 minutes
Q MODERATELY EASY
THE CURRY QTo make the curry paste, heat a
This creamy Thai curry has half the unsalted peanuts 25g, roasted small frying pan and drop in all the
fat with all the aromatic flavour. Using rapeseed oil 2 tsp (try La Palisse seeds and cloves. Dry-roast over a
skinless chicken and light coconut milk available at gourmet stores) medium heat, shaking the pan often,
Recipe ANGELA NILSEN Photograph JONATHAN KENNEDY Styling JO HARRIS Food styling SARA BUENFELD

helps reduce the fat, while rapeseed oil shallots 6-7, halved for 1-2 minutes to release their avours
lowers the level of saturated fat. cinnamon stick k 1, broken into half until they start popping in the pan.
light coconut milk 400ml Mix in the chillies, then grind nely
THE CURRY PASTE chicken breasts 500g skinless, using a pestle and mortar or a spice
coriander seeds 1 tbsp boneless, cut into bite-sized pieces grinder. Set aside.
cumin seeds 2 tsp sweet potatoes 200g, cut into QHeat the oil in the same pan. Tip in
cardamom pods 5, seeds only 2 1/2cm chunks the shallots and garlic, and fry over a
cloves 3 French beans 175g, stem ends medium heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring
dried chillies 1/2 tsp, crushed trimmed occasionally, until a rich golden brown.
rapeseed oil 2 tsp (try La Palisse fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available Stir in the ground spices and stir-fry for
available at gourmet stores) at gourmet stores) 1 minute. Spoon into a processor with
shallots 100g, nely chopped tamarind paste 2 tsp (try Mothers the ginger, lemongrass and coconut
garlic cloves 3, nely chopped Recipe available at gourmet stores) milk. Blitz until it is smooth, then stir in
ginger a 2 1/2cm piece, nely grated chicken stock 75ml the black pepper.
lemongrass stalk k 1, ends and outside salt to season QTo make the curry, heat the oil in
layer removed, nely chopped coriander and Thai basil leaves to a large saut pan, tip in the shallots
light coconut milk 6 tbsp garnish and fry over a medium heat, turning
black pepperr 1/4 tsp, ground peanuts a small handful, to garnish occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 63


salt to season
steamed rice to serve
lime 1, halved

QPut the curry paste and coconut


cream in a pan and cook over a low
heat until it starts to bubble. Add the
milk slowly and bring to a simmer. Add
the pumpkin and cook for 5 minutes
then add the broccoli and mushrooms
and cook for 2 minutes.
QFinally, add the cherry tomatoes.
Check if the pumpkin is tender and
then season with sh sauce. Season to
taste. Serve with steamed rice a wedge
of lime on the side.
Q PER SERVING 148 kcals, protein 10g,
carbs 18.2g, fat 4.5g, sat fat 2.8g, fibre
3.8g, salt 1.1g

Keralan prawns
Serves 2 Q20 minutes Q EASY

Tomatoes make a good low-fat base;


then use low-fat yoghurt to add
creaminess.

onion 1 small, nely chopped


oil 1 tsp
they are browned all over and scattered with the coriander, Thai basil turmeric powder 1 tsp
softened. Remove and set aside. Put and peanuts. garlic cloves 2, crushed
the cinnamon stick and curry paste in Q PER SERVING 348 kcals, protein ginger a 2cm piece, grated
the saut pan and cook for 1 minute. 36.4g, carbs 18g, fat 15.8 g, sat fat 1.5g, dried red chilli 1, crumbled
Pour in 100ml of the coconut milk. fibre 4.4g, sugar 8.3g, salt 1.1g tomatoes 400g, chopped
Let it bubble for 2 minutes, stirring raw prawns 200g, peeled
occasionally, until it resembles a thick Veggie Thai red curry yoghurt 1 tbsp
paste. Tip in the chicken and stir-fry in Serves 2 Q30 minutes Q EASY salt to season
the paste over a slightly high heat for
6-8 minutes or until cooked. Coconut cream is the fatty culprit in QPut the onion in a pan with the oil
QMeanwhile, steam the sweet potato most Thai curries. To keep the flavour and fry gently for 5 minutes or until
for 8-10 minutes and the beans for but cut the fat, use just a tablespoon it starts to soften. Add the turmeric
about 5 minutes. Remove the pan of coconut cream and make up the powder, garlic, ginger and red chilli and
of chicken from the heat and stir in liquid with skimmed milk. Use soya milk cook for a few minutes until a rough,
the remaining coconut milk, the sh instead of skimmed milk if you prefer. fragrant paste is formed. Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JENNIFER JOYCE

sauce, tamarind paste and stock. Lay QAdd the tomatoes and simmer for
the sweet potatoes and shallots in red Thai curry paste 1 tbsp (try Blue 10 minutes, adding a splash of water
the curry and warm through gently Elephant available at gourmet stores) if required. Blend half the curry in a
over a very low heat overheating coconut cream 1 tbsp (try Real Thai mixer and add to the other half. Stir
may cause the coconut milk to curdle. available at gourmet stores) in the prawns and cook until they turn
If you need to thin the sauce slightly, skimmed milk 300ml opaque. Season to taste. Serve with
stir in 1-2 spoons of water. Remove the pumpkin 1/4, peeled, seeded and cubed rice or naan, topped with a dollop of
cinnamon. Season to taste. broccoli 1/2 head, cut into orets yoghurt.
QLay a bunch of the beans to one side button mushrooms 6, quartered Q PER SERVING 153 kcals, protein
of each serving bowl. Spoon the curry cherry tomatoes 6 21.3g, carbs 10.3g, fat 3.2g, sat fat 0.5g,
over one end of the beans and serve fish sauce to season (optional) fibre 2.6g, salt 0.78g

64 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JENNIFER JOYCE
weekend
eat in
and set aside. You will only be using
half of this paste, the rest can be chilled
for a couple of days, or frozen for up to
a month.
QFor the curry, heat the oil in a non-
stick saut pan, stir in half the curry
paste, then stir-fry for 1 minute. Pour
two-thirds of the coconut milk into the
pan. Let it bubble away for 4-5 minutes,
stirring now and then, until reduced
and thickened slightly.
QTip in the chicken, then stir-fry for
1-2 minutes until no longer pink. Stir
in the sh sauce and sugar, then pour
in the rest of the coconut milk to give
a thinnish, creamy sauce. Lower the
heat, add the lime leaves, then simmer
for 5 minutes to gently nish cooking
the chicken. Can be frozen at this point
for up to 1 month.
QWhile the chicken simmers, steam
the peas and beans for a couple
of minutes. Season to taste. Serve
the curry in bowls with some of the
vegetables piled on top (serve the
Thai green THE CURRY rest separately) along with the spring
chicken curry sunflower oil 1 tbsp onions and the rest of the coriander
Serves 4 Q55 minutes Q EASY coconut milk 400ml leaves. Serve with a bowl of Thai
chicken breasts 3, boneless, skinless, fragrant rice and lime wedges for
In this recipe, the amount of oil, cut into bite-size pieces squeezing over.
salt and sugar is reduced to make it fish sauce 2 tsp (try Ayam available at Q PER SERVING 487 kcals, protein 35g,
healthier. Moreover, the curry paste gourmet stores) carbs 55g, fat 16 g, sat fat 10g, fibre 2g,
is homemade it boosts flavour and light brown sugar 1/2 tsp (try Tate & sugar 4g, salt 0.96g
eliminates the need for salt, as well as Lyle available at gourmet stores)
the need for using as much fish sauce lime leaves 4
and sugar. snap peas 100g, thinly sliced Vietnamese sh curry
lengthways Serves 4 Q20 minutes Q EASY
THE CURRY PASTE green beans 100g, halved lengthways
coriander 20g, stalks and leaves salt to season Poaching fish for a curry works just
separated as well as frying the pieces first, and
shallots 2, nely chopped TO SERVE ginger, chilli, garlic and lime add as
lemongrass 1 stalk, nely chopped spring onions 2, nely shredded much flavour. Use fish sauce as a
garlic cloves 2, nely chopped Thai fragrant rice 250g, cooked (try seasoning to control your salt intake.
fresh root ginger 1cm piece, nely Real Thai available at gourmet stores)
chopped lime wedges to serve white fish fillet (rawas or basa) 400g,
Recipe ANGELA NILSEN Photograph JONATHAN KENNEDY

hot green chillies 3 small, nely skinless, cut into big chunks
chopped QFor the curry paste, nely chop the green chilli 1, nely sliced
green chilli 1 medium, nely chopped coriander stalks and put them into a ginger 1cm piece, grated
basil leaves a small handful small food processor with the shallots, garlic clove 1, nely sliced
cumin powder 1/2 tsp lemongrass, garlic and ginger. Pulse chicken or fish stock, 200ml
coriander powder 1/2 tsp until as smooth as you can get it. Add limes 2, 1 juiced + 1 halved
black pepper 1/4 tsp the chillies, basil, three quarters of the coriander a bunch, nely chopped
kaffir lime leaves 1 tsp, chopped coriander leaves, the ground cumin, fish sauce to season (try Ayam
lime juice 1 tbsp coriander, pepper, lime leaves and lime available at gourmet stores)
sunflower oil 1 tsp juice, then pulse again. Mix in the oil salt to season

66 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
weekend
rice vermicelli 150g, cooked
following packet instructions (try Real
Thai available at gourmet stores)

QPut the sh cubes with the chilli,


ginger and garlic in a large pan.
Add the stock and bring gently to a
simmer then add the juice of 1 lime.
As soon as the sh turns opaque, stir
in the coriander and season with sh
sauce. Season to taste. Spoon over
bowls of rice noodles and serve extra
lime to squeeze over.
Q PER SERVING 112 kcals, protein
19.9g, carbs 5.8g, fat 1.2g, sat
fat 0.1g, fibre 0.3g, salt 1.03g
Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JENNIFER JOYCE
One-pot
p Moroccan
chicken
Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY

This North African chicken casserole is


low in fat, packed with vegetables and
flavoured with harissa.

chicken breasts 4, skinless


cumin powder 1 tsp
black pepper a pinch, ground
olive oil 1 tbsp
onion 1, nely sliced
cherry tomatoes 400g, halved
harissa paste 2 tbsp (try Al Fez available
at gourmet stores)
honey y 1 tbsp
zucchini 2 medium, thickly sliced
chickpeas 400g, boiled and drained
salt to season

QSeason the chicken breasts all over


with the cumin and black pepper. Heat the
oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook the
chicken with the onion for 4 minutes. Turn
the chicken over and cook for a further
3 minutes. Stir the onions around the
chicken as they cook.
QTip the tomatoes and 250ml water into
the pan and stir in the harissa, honey,
zucchini and chickpeas. Bring to a gentle
simmer and cook for about 7-8 minutes
until the chicken is tender and the sauce
has thickened slightly. Season to taste and
serve immediately with pita bread or rice.
Q PER SERVING 293 kcals, protein 36g,
carbs 22g, fat 6g, sat fat 1g, fibre 4g, sugar
10g, salt 0.9g
Lamb with tomato, lemon 1, juiced
cumin and mustard salt to season
seeds corianderr to serve With a convenient list of healthy
ingredients and quick cooking time,
Serves 4 Q2 hours Q EASY
this dish is a great way to introduce
QPure the garlic, ginger, chillies and
exotic flavours. I hadnt used harissa
garlic cloves 3, peeled onion together in a food processor. Heat paste before and was initially
gingerr 3cm piece, peeled and chopped the oil in a casserole. Brown the lamb apprehensive, but the honey-harissa
Recipe JUSTINE PATTERSON Photograph JON WHITAKER

green chillies 3, roughly chopped and scoop out. Fry the spices in the combination works beautifully.
onion 1 large, roughly chopped same pan for 2 minutes then add the Increase the quantity of the harissa
oil 2 tbsp onion pure and cook for 3-4 minutes. or honey, depending on whether you
want the chicken to have more bite. I
lean lamb leg 600g, trimmed of fat Add the lamb with the tomatoes and
swapped the zucchini for carrots and
black mustard seeds 2 tsp, toasted stock. Stir, cover and cook for 1 hour.
a fistful of peas to add more crunch.
cumin seeds 3 tsp, toasted Season to taste. Stir in the lemon juice Yashasvini Kumarr is a corporate
cloves 2, ground and coriander before serving. lawyer based in Delhi and blogs
turmeric powderr 1 tsp Q PER SERVING 368 kcals, protein 49g, about food at forthereluctantchef.
tomatoes 400g, chopped carbs 8g, fat 17g, sat fat 6g, fibre 2g, blogspot.in.
chicken stock k 200ml salt 0.5g

68 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Recipe LULU GRIMES Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JENNIFER JOYCE
weekend
eat in
Turning over

a new leaf
H
brilliantly zesty flavour trip
R ci
Rec pe
pess CH
CHEF
EF
F AL
LE
EX GA
GARE
RES
RE
ES Ph
Phot
o og
otogra
raph
rap s RI
ph RITA
ITA
TAM
M BA
B NE
NERJ
RJ
JEE
EE

Pla go
Pla gooong (p
on pra
awn
w sal alad
alad
ad withitth
lemo
lem ng
mo ngra
rass
ass ro
r asstteed ch
hil
illi
li
past
pa s e an
st and
d lime)) (rre
lime eci
c pe on p 76 76)
6)
eat in
entertaining

Thai salads are


very versatile,
and can be made
from almost
anything - veggies,
herbs, fruits, meat
and seafood. A
great Thai salad
should perfectly
blend spicy, sour,
salty and sweet
flavours. The key
to its taste is the
dressing, including
a number of vital
ingredients
chilli, garlic, lemon
or lime, fish sauce,
and palm sugar.
- Chef Alex Gares,
Executive Chef, Four Seasons
Resort Koh Samui, Thailand
Yam lamut (local
green mango salad
with curry paste and
roasted coconut)
(recipe on p 76)
eat in
entertaining

Yam pla meuk


(grilled squid salad)
(recipe on p 76)
Yam Som O Gai (pomelo
and chicken salad)
Serves 2 Q30 minutes Q EASY

This pucker-worthy salad is a surefire


winner at any gathering. The pomelo
gives it an exotic feel and the fried
shallots, chicken and dried shrimp
offer a variety of textures and flavour
contrasts to the sweet pomelo.

Recipe CHEF PIRUN PUMICOME, FOUR


SEASONS RESORT, CHIANG MAI
GOOD
FOOD pomelo or grapefruit 2-4 pieces,
peeled and de-veined
STAR chicken breasts 2, cooked and
RECIPE shredded
cashewnuts 2, roasted and crushed
dried shrimp or shrimp powder 4
pieces, chopped
coconut 2 tbsp, grated

THE SWEET CHILLI SAUCE


lime juice 2 tbsp
fish sauce 2 tbsp (try Ayam available
at gourmet stores)
palm sugar 2 tbsp
Thai sweet chilli paste 2 tbsp (try Real
Thai available at gourmet stores)

THE GARNISH
red chillies 2, deep-fried
shallots 2-4, deep-fried
kaffir lime leaves 2, julienned
mint a few sprigs
lettuce leaves a few

QRemove the outer skin of the pomelo


and place the plump kernels on a
plate. Prepare the sweet chilli sauce by
mixing all the ingredients together in a
bowl. Stir well.
QAdd the chicken, cashewnuts, dried
shrimp and grated coconut. Add the
pomelo and mix well. Place the pomelo
salad on a plate. Top with red chillies,
shallots and kafr lime leaves. Garnish
with the mint and lettuce leaves.
QPER SERVING 333 kcals, protein
30.6g, carbs 43.6g, fat 3.8g, sat fat 1.3g,
fibre 1.1g, salt 1.3g

74 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat in
entertaining
Sea bass ceviche with
passionfruit, lime,
sweet green mango and
coriander dressing
Serves 2 Q15 minutes + refrigeration
Q EASY

This is a refreshing and balanced


ceviche, similar to a tartare, but made
with lime juice and passion fruit. The
passionfruit adds a sweet and tangy
touch while chilli, ginger and garlic
deliver spice.

sea bass 160g, cubed


sweet green mangoes 3 tbsp, diced

THE DRESSING
passionfruit pure 3 tbsp (try Ponthier
available at gourmet stores)
passionfruit 1, esh scooped out (try
Offerings available at gourmet stores)
fresh lime juice 2 tbsp
shallots 1 tsp, chopped
garlic cloves 1 tsp, chopped
ginger 1 tsp, chopped
coriander 1 tsp, chopped REALLY
REALLY
chillies 1/2 tsp, chopped EASY
salt a pinch
sugar 1 tsp

QTo make the dressing, mix all the


ingredients and refrigerate until cool.
Then spoon it over the sea bass and
garnish with diced green mangoes.
QPER SERVING 219.5 kcals, protein
12.25g, carbs 42g, fat 0.8g, sat fat 0.2g,
fibre 6.25g, salt 3.9g

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 75


eat in
entertaining

Pla goong (prawn REALLY Yam lamut (local green Yam pla meuk (grilled
salad with lemongrass, REALLY
QUICK
mango salad with squid salad)
roasted chilli paste and curry paste and roasted Serves 2 Q25 minutes Q EASY
lime) coconut)
Serves 2 Q15 minutes Q EASY Serves 2 Q15 minutes Q EASY A richly textured salad, this sour and
spicy creation contains grilled squid
This simple salad of blanched prawns, A flavourful, lightly sour and spicy salad dressed with Thai seafood sauce, fresh
roasted chilli paste, lime juice and herbs made with lamut, a mango variety from celery stalks, wild rocket and peanuts.
is packed with sour and spicy flavours. southern Thailand, and a dressing of
red chilli paste and green mango to add squid 70g
prawns 10, deveined a dash of heat. You can substitute the celery 2 tbsp, chopped
Thai roasted chilli paste 2 tbsp lamut with any local, sour green mango spring onions 1 tbsp, chopped
(see recipe below) instead. rocket leaves a handful
sugar 1 tbsp
lime juice 2 tbsp green mangoes (lamut) 100g THE DRESSING
shallots 4 tbsp red curry paste 1 tsp (try Blue lime juice 2 tbsp
spring onions 1 tbsp Elephant available at gourmet stores) fish sauce 2 tbsp (try Ayam available
lemongrass 1 1/2 tbsp, sliced shallots 2 tbsp, chopped at gourmet stores)
mint a handful soy sauce 2 tbsp palm sugar 2 tbsp
red chillies 1-2, sliced palm sugar 1 tbsp coriander root 1 tsp
coconut 1 1/2 tbsp, grated and roasted red chillies 4, 2 small and 2 large
QBlanch the prawns for 15 seconds. peanuts 1 tbsp, roasted and ground
Prepare the dressing by mixing the QThinly slice the green mangoes and
chilli paste, sugar and lime juice. In a mix with the rest of ingredients in a QTo make the dressing, mix the lime
bowl, mix the shallots, spring onions, bowl. Serve immediately. juice, sh sauce, palm sugar, coriander
lemongrass, mint and chillies, then QPER SERVING 79.5 kcals, protein root and the chillies. Blend well and add
add the prawns and toss well with the 1.30g, carbs 17.85g, fat 0.8g, sat fat the roasted peanuts. Keep aside.
dressing. Serve. 0.7g, fibre 1.1g, salt 0.8g QGrill the squid, mix it with the celery,
QPER SERVING217 kcals, protein 16.9g, spring onions, rocket and then toss
carbs 29.6g, fat 3.5g, sat fat none, fibre with the dressing. Serve.
0.3g, salt 0.2g QPER SERVING 178 kcals, protein 13.7g,
carbs 16.2g, fat 6.1g, sat fat 0.7g, fibre
Thai roasted chilli paste 1.9g, salt 1.6g
Makes 200g Q35 minutes Q EASY Recipe AMIT PAMNANI

Roast 10 whole dried chillies in a pan until they turn slightly black. Remove and let them cool. In the same
pan roast 10 whole unpeeled shallots and 10 unpeeled garlic cloves until brown. Deseed the chillies
and break them with your hands. Peel the garlic and shallots. Blend the chillies, shallots, garlic, 3 tbsp
tamarind water, 1 tbsp soya sauce, 3 tbsp brown sugar, 1 tsp salt and 1/4 cup olive oil to a coarse
paste. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a pan, add the paste and bring to a boil. Cool. Store in a bottle, it will last for
a month in the refrigerator.

76 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


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healthy makeovers

HIGH-CAL gone
HEALTHY
Discover new ways to lighten your favourite
comfort foods for guilt-free indulgence
Recipes and food styling ANGELA NILSEN
Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling RACHEL JUKES

VEG IT
with Nutrelas
soya granules
instead of the
lamb mince
Shepherds pie Burgers
Serves 4 Q1 hour 50 minutes Q EASY Serves 4 Q1 hour 5 minutes Q EASY

THE FILLING The patties can be made a day ahead;


rapeseed oil 1 tbsp (try La Palisse stack the burgers between pieces of
available at gourmet stores) greaseproof paper to stop them from
onion 1, chopped sticking, wrap in cling-film then chill
thyme 3-4 sprigs until ready to cook.
carrots 2, diced
lean minced lamb 250g THE BURGERS
plain flour 1 tbsp lean beef or lamb mince 400g
vegetable stock 350ml spring onions 5, nely chopped
tomatoes 225g, chopped carrots 140g, nely grated
tomato pure 1 tbsp garlic cloves 2, nely chopped
Puy lentils 400g, boiled and drained dijon mustard 2 tsp (try Roland
worcestershire sauce 1 tsp (try available at gourmet stores)
American Garden available at gourmet tarragon 1 tbsp, chopped
stores) egg 1 medium, beaten
salt and pepper to season salt and pepper to season
until light and uffy. Season to taste. multigrain bread buns 4, split into half
THE TOPPING Heat the oven to 200C. rapeseed oil 1 1/2 tsp, for brushing (try
potatoes 650g, roughly chopped QSpoon the meat into a 1.5 litre dish La Palisse available at gourmet stores)
sweet potatoes 250g, roughly and remove the thyme sprigs. Top with watercress or arugula leaves 25g
chopped the mash and smooth over with a knife.
half-fat crme frache or hung curd Use a fork to create a ridged pattern on THE ROASTED PEPPER SALSA
2 tbsp (try President available at top. Place the dish on a baking sheet red peppers 2 large, halved lengthways
gourmet stores) and bake for about 20-25 minutes and deseeded
semi-skimmed milk 1 cup until piping hot and the lling starts cherry tomatoes 100g, halved
to bubble around the edges. If the top lime juice 2 tsp
QHeat the oil in a large, deep saut is not brown enough, pop it under the chives or garlic shoots 2 tsp, snipped
pan. Tip in the onion and thyme sprigs grill for 5 minutes or until the mash is red onion 1/4 small, thinly sliced
and fry for 2-3 minutes. Then add crisp and golden. Let it sit for about crushed chillies a pinch
the carrots and fry together for 5-8 5 minutes and then serve. pepper a pinch, to taste
minutes, stirring occasionally until Q PER SERVING 429 kcals, protein 22g, salt to taste (optional)
the vegetables start to brown. Stir in carbs 63g, fat 12g, sat fat 4g, fibre 11g,
the mince to break it down. Fry for 1-2 sugar 15g, salt 0.91g QTip the mince into a bowl with the
minutes until no longer pink. Stir in spring onions, grated carrot, garlic,
the our, scraping the bottom of the WHY ITS HEALTHIER mustard, tarragon and egg. Mix well
pan in case the meat sticks, then cook Q Uses rapeseed oil for frying. using a fork. Season well, then divide
for another 1-2 minutes. Pour in the Q Reduces the fat by using lean the mixture into 4 parts. Flatten each
stock and stir until thickened. Stir in mince. piece with your hands into a 10cm
the tomatoes, tomato pure, lentils Q Increases the bre and cuts down round, about 2cm thick a similar
and worcestershire sauce and season. the fat by substituting half the width to the buns. Chill for about
Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, amount of meat for lentils. 30 minutes.
for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Q Boosts the vegetable content by QMeanwhile, heat the oven to 200C.
QMeanwhile, prepare the topping. adding carrots and tomatoes. Lay the peppers, cut sides down, on a
Drop all the potatoes into a large pan Q Combines regular potatoes with non-stick baking sheet. Roast for 35
of boiling water. Bring back to the boil, sweet potatoes in the topping as minutes until the skins are charred,
then simmer for 12-15 minutes or until they are packed with beta-carotene. laying the tomatoes next to them,
they are tender. Drain in a colander Q Uses semi-skimmed milk and cut-side up, for the nal 3 minutes just
then tip back into the pan. Mash with a half-fat crme frache in the mash to soften. Remove and immediately
masher or, briey, with an electric hand to reduce the fat and saturated fat. transfer the peppers to a bowl and
mixer until smooth. Beat in the crme cover with cling-lm. Leave for 5-10
frache and milk with a wooden spoon minutes until cool enough to handle.

78 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JO HARRIS
healthy makeovers
eat in
Peel off the pepper skins, chop the
peppers and tip them back into the
bowl to join any juices there. Chop the
tomatoes and stir into the peppers
with the lime juice, chives, onion and
chillies. Taste and add a grind of pepper
if needed. Set aside.
QHeat a griddle pan, or cook the
burgers on the barbecue. Lay the cut
sides of the buns on the griddle and
cook until marked with the griddle bars.
Brush each burger on one side with
some rapeseed oil. Place on the hot
griddle, oiled side down. Cook dont
move them or they may stick for 5
minutes. Brush the unoiled side with
the rest of the oil, then turn and cook
for another 5 minutes. (For well done,
add an extra 1-2 minutes to each side.)
QRemove and let the burgers rest
for 2-3 minutes. Drizzle a little of the
pepper juices over the bottom of
each bun to moisten, lay on some
watercress, top with a burger, then a
spoonful of the salsa, spooning over
some more of the juices. Sandwich
together with the tops of the buns.
PER SERVING 405 kcals, protein 32g,
carbs 37g, fat 15.4g, sat fat 5g, fibre 5g,
sugar 10g, salt 1.44g
Macaroni cheese just coming to a boil. Remove from the
WHY ITS HEALTHIER Serves 4 Q1 hour 10 minutes heat, sprinkle in the crushed chillies
Q Reduces fat by using lean mince Q EASY and leave to infuse.
and bulking the mixture out with QGet everything else ready. Coarsely
grated carrot. semi-skimmed milk 550ml grate both cheeses, keeping them
Q Keeps oil meant for cooking to a cornflour 25g separate. Mix a handful of the cheddar
minimum by brushing it onto the English mustard powder 1 heaped into the breadcrumbs with pepper.
burgers. tsp (try Colmans available at gourmet Thickly slice the medium tomatoes and
Q Reduces the salt by avouring stores) halve the cherry. Finely slice the spring
with mustard, garlic and tarragon. garlic clove 1 large, nely chopped onions. Heat the oven to 190C.
Q Improves the nutritional value by crushed dried chillies a generous QBring a pan of salted water up to the
upping the vegetables and vitamin pinch boil, tip in the macaroni, give it a stir
C content incorporates carrot in cheddar 140g so it doesnt stick, then cook for about
the burgers, uses red peppers and parmesan 25g 6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in
tomatoes in the salsa, and replaces fresh breadcrumbs 25g the spring onions and cook for another
regular lettuce with watercress. salt and pepper to season 2 minutes. Meanwhile, make the sauce.
Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN

Q Eliminates creamy dressings and medium tomatoes and cherry Stir the cornour mix into the warm
uses a fresh, juicy salsa instead. tomatoes 450g milk. Return the pan to the heat,
Q Ups bre by using multigrain buns. spring onions a bunch, ends trimmed then bring to the boil, stirring, until
macaroni 200g thickened and smooth. Remove from
low-fat buttermilk 150ml the heat and stir in the parmesan, most
of the remaining cheddar and some
QMix 3 tbsp of milk with the cornour pepper to taste. Stir in the buttermilk.
and mustard and set aside. Heat the QTip the macaroni and spring onions
rest of the milk with the garlic until into a colander, drain, then hold under

80 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


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a hot tap to keep it separate. Drain well,
then stir into the sauce. Pour into an WHY ITS HEALTHIER
ovenproof dish. Lay the tomatoes over Q A serving of classic macaroni cheese contains 821
the top then scatter over the cheesy kcals and 43g fat (26g of which is saturated fat) and
breadcrumbs, the rest of the cheese 1.98g salt. This version contains 503 kcals and 19g fat
and a grating of pepper. Bake for about (11g saturated fat) and 1.15g salt.
15 minutes until starting to bubble Q Reduces the fat by making butter-less sauce, using
around the edges. Grill for about less of cheddar, combined with parmesan to maintain
5 minutes until the top is crisp and well avour and substituting some of the milk for low-fat
browned. Let it sit for a few minutes buttermilk.
before serving. Q Reduces the salt by using less cheese and adding
Q PER SERVING 503 kcals, protein 26g, garlic, mustard and spring onions as avour enhancers.
carbs 62g, fat 19g, sat fat 11g, fibre 3g, Q Ups the vitamin C content by topping with tomatoes.
sugar 14g, salt 1.15g
Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling LISA HARRISON

Lighter chocolate tart


(recipe overleaf)
Lighter chocolate tart pastry a at edge, and then leave until Lighter lemon
Makes 8 slices Q1 hour completely cold. drizzle cake
Q MODERATELY EASY QTo make the lling, put the chocolate Makes 12 slices Q1 hour 10 minutes
in a large bowl that will t over a pan Q EASY
THE PASTRY of simmering water without touching
plain flour 140g + extra for dusting it. Mix the cocoa, coffee and vanilla rapeseed oil 75ml + extra for greasing
butter 50g, cubed with the milk. Pour over the chocolate. (try La Palisse available at gourmet
cocoa powder 2 tsp Sit the bowl over a pan of gently stores)
icing sugar 1 tbsp (try Bluebird simmering water, stir, then immediately self-raising flour 175g
available at gourmet stores) remove pan from the heat, with the baking powder 1 1/2 tsp
rapeseed oil 1 tbsp (try La Palisse bowl of chocolate still over the water, almonds 50g, ground
available at gourmet stores) stirring occasionally, to check when polenta 50g (try Valsugana available at
egg yolk 1 medium melted. Stir the melted chocolate gourmet stores)
half-fat crme frache to serve it will be quite thick. Stir in 2 tbsp lemons 2, zested
(optional) boiling water and the chocolate will golden caster sugar 140g (try Tate &
immediately thin down and become Lyle available at gourmet stores)
THE FILLING silky smooth. Take the bowl off the pan eggs 2 large
dark chocolate 100g, very nely and leave to cool slightly. yoghurt 225g
chopped (try Morde or Valrhona QWhisk the egg whites to stiff peaks,
available at gourmet stores) then whisk in the sugar until thick and THE LEMON SYRUP
cocoa powder 1 tbsp + extra 1/2 tsp for glossy. Fold the crme frache into the caster sugar 85g (try Tate & Lyle
sifting cooled chocolate. Fold one-third of the available at gourmet stores)
coffee granules 3/4 tsp egg whites into the chocolate mixture lemon juice 5 tbsp
vanilla essence 1/2 tsp using a large metal spoon, then very
semi-skimmed milk 2 tbsp gently fold in the remaining whites, a QHeat the oven to 180C. Lightly oil a
egg whites 2 medium third at a time, until evenly mixed in. 20cm round x 5cm deep cake tin and
dark muscovado sugar 2 tbsp (try Remove the pastry case from the tin line the base with baking parchment. For
Waitrose available at gourmet stores) and place on a serving plate. Spoon the cake, put the our, baking powder,
half-fat crme frache 85g (try the lling into the case, then spread ground almonds and polenta in a large
President available at gourmet stores) out gently and evenly. Chill for about mixing bowl. Stir in the lemon zest and
3 hours, or overnight, before serving. sugar, then make a dip in the centre.
QTip the our into a mixing bowl and Serve with a sifting of cocoa and half- Beat the eggs in a bowl, then stir in the
remove 2 tsp (the cocoa will replace it fat crme frache, if you like. yoghurt. Tip this mixture along with
later). Add the butter and rub into the Q PER SERVING 243 kcals, protein the oil into the dip, then briey and
our until the mixture resembles ne 4.4g, carbs 25.8g, fat 13.4g, sat fat 7.3g, gently stir with a large metal spoon so
breadcrumbs. Sift in the cocoa and fibre 1.3g, sugar 13.7g, salt 0.3g everything is just combined, without
icing sugar, then, using a round-bladed overmixing.
knife, stir in the oil, egg yolk and 1 1/2-2 WHY ITS HEALTHIER QSpoon the mixture into the tin and
tbsp cold water, until the dough comes Q Reduces fat by two-thirds with level the top. Bake for 40 minutes or
together. Gently gather into a ball, then the use of half-fat crme fraiche until a skewer inserted into the centre of
roll out on a lightly oured surface, and semi-skimmed milk. the cake comes out clean. Cover loosely
big enough to t a 20cm round x Q Egg whites up the protein with foil for the nal 5-10 minutes if it
3.5cm-deep loose-bottomed tin. Ease content. starts to brown too quickly.
the pastry into the tin, leaving a slight QWhile the cake cooks, make the
overhang. Lightly prick the base with a lemon syrup. Tip the caster sugar into
fork, then chill for about 10 minutes. a small saucepan with the lemon juice
QHeat the oven to 190C. Sit the tin on and 75ml water. Heat over a medium
a baking sheet. Line the pastry with foil ame, stirring occasionally, until the
and ll with baking beans. Blind-bake sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat, boil
for 15 minutes or until set. Carefully for 4 minutes until slightly reduced and
lift out the beans and paper, then bake syrupy, then remove from the heat.
the pastry case for another 10 minutes QRemove the cake from the oven and
or until the base is cooked. Remove, let it cool briey in the tin. While it is still
carefully trim off the overhanging warm, turn it out of the tin, peel off the
pastry with a sharp knife, to give the lining paper and sit the cake on a wire

82 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


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rack set over a baking tray or similar. Use
a skewer to make lots of small holes all
over the top of the cake. Slowly spoon
over half the lemon syrup and let it soak
in. Spoon over the rest in the same way,
brushing the edges and sides of the cake
too with the last of the syrup.
Q PER SERVING 243 kcals, protein 4.7g,
carbs 35.4g, fat 10.2g, sat fat 1.4g, fibre
0.9g, sugar 21.5g, salt 0.34g

WHY ITS HEALTHIER


Q Eliminates butter completely and
replaces it with a combination of
yoghurt and rapeseed oil.
Q Mixes in ground almonds to
lighten and moisten, and bulked out
with polenta, which intensies the
texture and colour.
Q Fewer eggs required since the
yoghurt and oil mix is used.
Q Reduces the sugar.
Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN
Eggless treats
Dont eat eggs? These OMG, good desserts will ensure you dont miss out on the
decadent stuff anymore
Recipes and photographs DEEBA RAJPAL

Baileys ice cream sundae


(recipe on p 92)
eat in
show off

There was a time


when my heart
sank if I had to do
an eggless dessert.
The options
seemed so limited.
Happily, now
the possibilities
seem endless. You
can rustle up a
gorgeous chocolate
salami roll or a
Baileys ice cream
sundae in a matter
of minutes. For the
more adventurous,
a quark mousse
(made with
homemade quark
cheese) is sure to
delight. Here are
some delicious
options, bake
as well as no-
bake, to get you
sweet talking this
season!
- Deeba Rajpal, author,
passionateaboutbaking.com

Chocolate praline tart


(recipe on p 92)

MAY 2013 BBC GoodFood 85


QRoll out on a lightly oured surface
and cut into circles to line the petite
tart tins. Blind bake at 180C for about
20 minutes, until light golden brown.
You could make the cases in a mufn
pan in case you dont have individual
tartlet tins.
QFor the whipped mascarpone, place
all the ingredients in a large bowl and
whip on high speed until thick and
mousse-like, about 5 minutes. Taste
and adjust the sugar if required.
QPlace whipped cream into a pastry
bag tted with a star nozzle and pipe
into the baked shortcrust shells. Try
and pipe the cream just before serving
or the pastry might soften up a bit. It
tastes good both ways though. If you
decide to assemble ahead, make sure
you refrigerate the tartlets. Top with
fruit of your choice and serve chilled.
QPER SERVING 336 kcals, protein
3.53g, carbs 35.77g, fat 19.8g, sat fat
11.33g, fibre 2.1g, salt none

Plum Fro Yo
Makes approximately 1 litre Q20
minutes + freezing Q EASY

Guilt free, sweet, tangy, refreshing and


colourful, its always nice to have this
in the freezer to banish the summer
heat. Be warned, this frozen yoghurt is
addictive!
Mascarpone fruit mascarpone 150g, chilled (try Impero REALLY
REALLY
tartlets available at gourmet stores) plums 650g chopped, skin-on QUICK
Serves 4-6 Q45 minutes + chilling powdered sugar 30-45g, as per taste vanilla sugar 200g
Q MODERATELY EASY lime 1, zested Kirsch or any cherry liqueur 1 tbsp
lime juice 1 tsp (available at liquor stores)
Summer means colourful, refreshing seasonal fruits (use strawberries, hung yoghurt 200g, drained, chilled in
fruit berries, stone fruit and tropical peaches, cherries, kiwi, cape the freezer for 2-3 hours
fruit. Use this basic recipe to dress up gooseberries, etc) diced, to garnish
the tartlets as you fancy. Fresh herbs QToss the plums with the sugar and
like basil, thyme and mint are a nice QTo make the pastry, sift the our and kirsch and stand at room temperature
addition to the chopped fruit. salt into a large bowl, add the butter for 5 minutes.
and rub in with your ngertips until the QTransfer to a food processor with the
THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY mixture resembles ne breadcrumbs. remaining ingredients and pulse until
plain flour 100g Alternatively, run the our and butter smooth. Taste and adjust the sugar if
salt a pinch in a food processor until you get a required.
unsalted butter 50g, chilled and breadcrumb-like mix. QFreeze in an ice cream maker
cubed QStir in 1 tbsp of chilled water at a time according to the manufacturers
ice cold water 1-2 tbsp, or as required to make a rm dough. Turn out the dough instructions.
onto a lightly oured surface, and knead QPER SERVING 163 kcals, protein
THE WHIPPED MASCARPONE briey to bring together. Wrap in cling- 2.31g, carbs 35.04g, fat 2.75g, sat fat
rich whipping cream 100g, chilled lm and chill for at least 30 minutes. 1.98g, fibre 1.11g, salt none

86 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


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EQUIPMENT
UIPMENT TIP

You can mmake this


withou
without an ice cream
m
maker too. Place the
mixture in the freezer
and give it a good stir
every hour to break
down the crystals.
Once it begins to set,
freeze overnight.
Chocolate salami rolls
Serves 6 Q30 minutes + freezing
Q MODERATELY EASY

This is an absolute winner. Make sure


you use good quality ingredients to
bring out the beauty of this simple roll.
Experiment with nuts of your choice
and add a few raisins, candied peels
and candied ginger if you like.

dark chocolate 250g, chopped


(try Morde or Valrhona available at
gourmet stores)
unsalted butter 75g (try President
available at gourmet stores)
digestive biscuits 125g, broken into
small pieces
walnuts 50g, roasted and chopped
pistachios 50g, chopped
strong coffee 15ml
powdered sugar for dusting

QMelt the chocolate and butter for


1 minute in a microwave-proof bowl.
Lemongrass-infused with your ngers and steep in the Mix well and cool. (If the chocolate
lime posset cream for about 1-2 hours. Add the hasnt melted, repeat for 30 second
Serves 4 Q30 minutes + steeping sugar and lime zest and simmer while intervals).
Q EASY the cream bubbles gently on the sides QStir in the remaining ingredients and
for about 5-7 minutes; dont let it come make sure they are uniformly mixed.
This is a simple, tangy and creamy to a boil. Stir constantly. Cover and refrigerate till slightly set,
summer dessert that uses only a QTake off the heat and whisk in the yet mouldable.
few ingredients. You can skip the lime juice and salt. The cream will QTransfer to sheets of cling-lm and
lemongrass if you cant find it. It still thicken and begin to clobber a bit. roll into two salami shaped rolls 2
tastes delicious! Whisk gently until smooth, cool for inches wide, and 7 inches long. Twist
5 minutes, then whisk again. Repeat. the sides like a sweet wrapper. Chill
lemongrass 2 stalks, bruised QOnce the cream is smooth, about until rm, about 1-2 hours.
cream 500g (try Amul available at 10 minutes, pour into ramekins and QRemove from the cling-lm and roll
grocery stores) cool until it reaches room temperature. in powdered sugar. Brush off the excess
granulated sugar 120g Cover and chill for 4 hours until set, or sugar and slice with a sharp serrated
limes 2, zested overnight. Garnish with a wedge of lime knife. Store at room temperature in a
REALLY
lime juice 30ml REALLY and serve chilled. cool place.
salt a pinch EASY QPER SERVING 249.25 kcals, protein QPER SERVING 469.83 kcals, protein
4.38g, carbs 46.53g, fat 8.3g, sat fat 7.42g, carbs 44.6g, fat 34.43g, sat fat
QBruise the stalk of the lemongrass 4.13g, fibre 0.95g, salt 0.1g 15.33g, fibre 5.07g, salt none

88 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


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and butter in a large steel bowl and
place it on top of a saucepan of
simmering water. Keep stirring at
regular intervals until the lling is well
combined and glossy. Strain through
a sieve for a smoother lling.
QCool for about 15-30 minutes,
then pour into two shells. Stir in the
marmalade and pour the remaining
mixture into two separate tart
tins. Top the plain ones with sliced
strawberries, and the marmalade one
with candied peels. Refrigerate to set.
QPER SERVING 498.25 kcals, protein
6.68g, carbs 48.83g, fat 35.28g, sat
fat 18.85g, fibre 2.75g, salt 0.1g

Quark and peach


mousse
Serves 4 Q20 minutes QEASY

low-fat cream 300g, chilled


powdered sugar 50g
fresh peaches 500g, halved, skinned
and diced (Alternatively you can use
Del Montes tinned peach available at
gourmet stores)
pistachios 25g, sliced

QMake quark cheese at home by


following the recipe on p 146. Place
the quark, cream and sugar in a large
bowl. With an electric hand beater,
whip on high speed until thick and
mousse-like, about 5 minutes. Adjust
sugar if required.
QLayer the bottoms of 4 glasses
Dark chocolate tarts dark chocolate 200g, chopped with chopped peaches and a
Serves 4 Q45 minutes + cooling (try Morde or Valrhona available at sprinkling of pistachios. Divide half
Q MODERATELY EASY gourmet stores) INGREDIENT the mousse between the glasses.
unsalted butter 40g TIP Layer with chopped peaches and
Sweet and simple, these no-bake bitter orange marmalade 1 tbsp (try You can make pistachios.
chocolate tarts are sure to indulge your Mackays Seville Orange Marmalade this mousse QDollop the remaining mousse
inner child. Easy to make ahead and available at gourmet stores) with other between the glasses. Top with a
fun to eat, they are a hit with kids and candied peel, strawberries or oranges seasonal fruit few pieces of chopped peaches and
adults alike. Add a bit of Grand Marnier to garnish like strawberries, slivered pistachios.
to the orange filling for some extra mangoes, QPER SERVING 625.25 kcals, protein
wickedness if you like. QTo make the base, run the digestive cherries, apricots 30.13g, carbs 58.83g, fat 32.18g, sat
biscuits in a food processor until nely etc. Fresh gs or fat 16.35g, fibre 2.58g, salt 0.5g
THE BASE crumbled. Mix in the melted butter and pears poached
digestive biscuits 125g press the mixture into the base and up gently in port
butter 50g, melted and cooled the sides of 4 loose-bottom tart tins, or wine and cooled
one 17-inch tin. Chill for 30 minutes. also make for
THE FILLING QMeanwhile make the lling using a delicious pairing.
low-fat cream 300g double boiler. Put the cream, chocolate

90 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


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Crush a few pieces


of peaches in the
layering if you like.
Cover and chill
for about an hour.
This can be made
a day ahead.
eat in
show off
low-fat cream 300g
unsalted butter 40g

QTo make the pastry, sift the


our and salt into a large bowl,
add the butter and rub in with
your ngertips until the mixture
resembles ne breadcrumbs.
Alternatively, run the our and
butter in a food processor until you
get a breadcrumb-like mix.
QAdd 1 tbsp of chilled water at a
time to make a rm dough. Turn
out the dough onto a lightly oured
Baileys ice cream QPlace a shot of Baileys Irish Cream surface, and knead briey to bring
sundae each in 4 sundae glasses or ice cream together. Wrap in cling-lm and chill
Serves 4 Q20 minutes Q EASY bowls. Top with a scoop of vanilla ice for at least 30 minutes. Roll out
cream, drizzled with warm caramel on a lightly oured surface to line
Few desserts can match the appeal of sauce and praline. a baking tin. Blind bake at 180C
a sundae. A perfect end to a meal, it QRepeat with another scoop of vanilla for about 25-30 minutes, until light
brings together different flavours and ice cream, warm sauce and praline. golden brown. Cool completely
textures in one hearty mix. A shot of Serve immediately. before lling.
Irish cream at the bottom completes QPER SERVING 604 kcals, protein QTo make the praline, place the
the experience. For a non-alcoholic 9.48g, carbs 83.33g, fat 24.5g, sat fat butter in a saucepan with the
version, skip the Irish cream and serve 11g, fibre 1.55g, salt 0.1g almonds and roast for a few minutes
with a simple salted caramel sauce. until fragrant. Add the sugar and stir
Chocolate praline tart continuously until the sugar melts,
Baileys Irish Cream 120ml Serves 6 Q45 minutes + baking + coats the nuts, and turns golden
vanilla or coffee ice cream 500g chilling Q MODERATELY EASY brown. Make sure it doesnt burn.
praline or roasted nuts 50g, chopped QTurn onto a tray lined with
A deep dark chocolate filling in a classic parchment paper immediately
THE CARAMEL SAUCE shortcrust tart gets more delicious and spread carefully with an offset
granulated sugar 200g with the addition of almond praline bits. spatula. Cool completely. Chop into INGREDIENT
water 60ml You can always double the praline as small pieces once cool. The praline TIP
Irish whiskey 50ml (try Jameson extra helpings make handy ice cream can be made ahead and stored in an QDont stretch
available at liquor stores) toppers. You could make the pastry airtight container in a cool place. the pastry else it
low-fat cream 75g tart, which freezes well, ahead as well. QMake the lling using a double- will shrink while
sea salt 1/4 tsp (try Roland available at boiler. Place all the ingredients baking. Ensure
gourmet stores) THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY together in a large steel bowl that it isnt torn
plain flour 225g + extra for dusting and place it over a saucepan of from anywhere
QTo make the caramel sauce, place the salt a pinch simmering water. Keep stirring otherwise the
sugar and water in a heavy-bottom pan unsalted butter 100g, chilled and at regular intervals until well ganache could
and bring to a boil. Stir until the sugar cubed (try President available at combined. Whisk well to make it leak through.
has dissolved. Boil without stirring until gourmet stores) smooth and glossy. Cool for about QAdd as little
the syrup begins to turn golden brown. ice cold water 3-4 tbsp, or as required 30 minutes. cold water as
Continue to boil for a few more minutes QIn order to assemble the tart, possible. Excess
until you get a deep golden caramel THE PRALINE scatter some praline over the base water will result
colour. Swirl the saucepan occasionally salted butter 30g of the tart shell. Pour the slightly in hard pastry.
to ensure the sugar doesnt burn. almonds 100g, chopped cooled ganache over the praline and Make sure the
QTake off the heat and gently pour sugar 100g gently spread with a butter knife. butter and water
in the whiskey, cream and salt. Do it Scatter more praline over the top are chilled. If the
carefully as the mixture may splutter THE FILLING and refrigerate until set. weather is really
and harden up. Return the pan to a dark chocolate 200g, nely chopped QPER SERVING 614.5 kcals, protein hot, try and chill
low heat and simmer, stirring until the (try Morde or Valrhona available at 11.4g, carbs 64.22g, fat 39.03g, sat the our too.
sauce melts and is smooth. gourmet stores) fat 19.68g, fibre 4.08g, salt 0.1g

92 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out Organic cafs on trial, plus Aoi's Chicken Donburi with
Teriyaki Sauce to try at home

IN THIS ISSUE
7Organic cafs reviewed, p 94
A patron enjoys a 7Pro vs Punter at Kolkata's The Flying Monk, p 102
cup of tea at Vinay 7Off the Eaten Track at Vinay Health Home, p 104
Health Home in
Mumbai p 104 7Aoi's Chicken Donburi with Teriyaki Sauce, p 107
On trial
Organic cafs
What are your restaurant options for an all-natural meal minus additives and preservatives?
We put five organic cafs to our taste test

HOW WE DID IT Although more and more restaurants in India are turning towards organic produce in keeping with international
trends, even today very few eateries can actually claim to be completely organic. We chose ve cafs that attempt to adhere to the philosophy of
serving natural, light and wholesome dishes using at least a few certied organic ingredients. The menus at these establishments lean towards lighter,
caf fare rather than restaurant-style dishes.

7 TATTVA
ART &
Looking for a restaurant that serves
healthy, gourmet dishes made with
authentic, organic ingredients? You
refreshing and light yet wholesome.
In the Whole Wheat Pasta with Lentil
Bolognese, sabut masoor dal is cooked
Left: The
Pranatattva
salad at
FRESH wont nd a better bet than Tattva - Art
& Fresh Organic Kitchen. They take
in vegetable stock before being tossed
with red wine vinegar and some
Tattva Art &
Fresh Organic
ORGANIC their commitment to serve healthy veggies, and topped with cheese. This Kitchen is made
KITCHEN, food seriously enough to refrain from
putting pakodas and pizzas on the
dish is a little dry and needs more
sauce. It can also do with more avour.
with lettuce,
mulberries and
New Delhi menu. Instead, the well thought out walnuts; Facing
menu offers plenty of choice in terms QBESTSELLERS page: Tattvas
of drinks, soups, starters, mains and Tattvas Real Caesar Salad, Cous welcoming,
desserts all of it healthy and organic! Cous Platter, Trivikrama Kebab Platter, home-style
While the description of the food Sorghum Millet Pesto Pilaf entrance
makes it sound almost medicinal, it QPROVENANCE
certainly does not taste so. All ingredients are sourced from
Tucked away in the alleys of Hauz certied organic stores. Most vegetables
Khas Village, this restaurant is difficult and pulses come from Navdanya;
to stumble upon. The dcor follows a some grains from Ahana Organic in
predominantly white theme with an Delhi and walnuts from Himjoli in
eclectic mix of beanbags, lamps and Uttarakhand. The handmade cows
cushions lending splashes of colour. milk cheeses are from Pondicherry.
The furniture is made of recycled QGO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?
and reused materials to create a Most of the desserts are not available
comfortable environment with a lower due to the lack of fresh ingredients, so
carbon footprint. go for the starters. The Summer Salsa
First, we are served a deliciously has thin and crunchy ragi crisps served
peppery hummus along with bread with mango salsa and salsa verde.
sticks that are, in fact, thinly cut sticks Seasoned with salt and lemon juice and
Photographs SAURABH SISODIA

of toasted multigrain bread. Our millet tempered with tiny black jakhiya seeds
main has millet grains tossed with (a hill spice that looks like mustard),
pomegranate and pumpkin seeds the mango salsa is sweet and slightly
with a light vinaigrette dressing. The tangy. The cooling jakhiya balances out
millet tastes like quinoa, but the grains the heat of the mango. The salsa verde
are bigger and harder. The dish is made with parsley, basil, garlic, lemon

94 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out
restaurant spy
7CAF,
juice and olive oil has a slightly bitter
aftertaste. KALA GHODA
Both the salads we try are made
with fresh and crunchy ingredients.
Mumbai
Tattvas Real Caesar has crunchy Ever since it opened its doors in
iceberg lettuce, crushed walnuts and Mumbais heritage arts district, Kala
croutons made of multigrain bread Ghoda, four years ago, Kala Ghoda
tossed in a creamy dressing made of Caf has acquired a cult following.
very soft paneer, honey and lemon At any time of day, you will nd the
juice. The sweet beetroot slices in the cafs six tables occupied by locals
Beetroot Salad are sprinkled with who ock for the excellent coffee or
pumpkin seeds and served on beetroot out-of-towners looking for a spot of with the sparsely seasoned laal maat
leaves that taste like rocket or purple quiet. More like a cosy nook than a relieving the denseness of the cheese.
lettuce, providing a nice contrast. full-edged eatery, Kala Ghoda Caf However, the accompanying tomato
QWHAT TO DRINK makes up for its lack of space with salsa has an unpleasant avour, and
The extensive choice of drinks includes clever architectural touches. has us reaching for wholegrain mustard
organic drinks, health shots and organic The cafs dening feature is an instead. The BLT sandwich made with
teas served both hot and cold. The ample skylight on the ceiling that the cafs signature multigrain bread
pomegranate juice is mildly herbed and oods it with light. Combined with is a tad under salted. But the sparse
very refreshing. The basil shot is slightly the white walls, it creates an illusion of mayonnaise dressing allows the good
sweet and rejuvenating. space. A narrow staircase leads up to a quality bacon rashers to shine through.
QINSIDER TIP Clockwise mezzanine level with just one low table
If you nd the vast choice of healthy from top: The and deep-set chairs that are great for QBESTSELLERS
dishes overwhelming, opt for the furniture at cosy conversation but not so much for KGC Chefs Salad, Rocket, Fruit &
ve-course set menu that includes a Tattva is made eating. The careful climb required to Honey Salad, BLT Sandwich
salad, soup, grain-based main, side and using recycled ascend the staircase further slows down QPROVENANCE
dessert along with a complimentary material; Kala the pace of service, which while polite Although not 100 per cent organic, a
shot and drink. It is well-priced and Ghoda Caf is and friendly, tends to suffer when the signicant number of certied organic
allows you to sample a range of dishes. renowned for caf is full. ingredients are used. Some vegetables
QDETAILS its breakfast A smattering of salads and are procured from organic growers,
Tattva - Art & Fresh Organic Kitchen, spread; To sandwiches forms the mainstay of and some organic cheeses are sourced
T 71, Green View Street, Aurobindo encourage the fairly concise menu, which also from Auroville and Kodaikanal, while
Marg, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi. cycling, those includes small bites such as cookies, the rest are bought locally. The dark,
Timings: Daily 12 noon 10 pm. Tel: who ride to Kala cheese straws and toast and desserts. unrened sugar on every table is made
+91 8860244640. Starters from ` 345; Ghoda Caf The selection of dishes on the menu from organic jaggery.
mains from ` 525; desserts from ` 245. on Sundays has remained fairly constant since QGO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?
get free tea 2009, with a few recent additions such Given that weve never had a salad
Quality: 9/10 or coffee; The as pot pies and quiches. here that we didnt like, wed say,
Atmosphere: 8/10 cafs egg Our generous wedge of Mushroom, pick starters over pud. The KGC
Provenance: 9/10 sandwich Broccoli and Cheddar Quiche arrives Chefs Salad, available in small as
Choice: 9/10 contains hot off the oven accompanied with well as large portions, is uplifted by
Value: 8/10 mayonnaise, wilted laal maat and tomato salsa. the excellent quality of its ingredients.
Total: 43/50 boiled eggs and Allaying our fears of it being too Not overwhelmed by the mustard
Shibani Bawa alfalfa sprouts eggy, the quiche is balanced in taste vinaigrette, the salad is a riot of

96 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out
restaurant spy
textures, laden with crunchy sprouts,
grated carrots, lettuce and cherry
tomatoes with a blob of feta for an
indulgent touch. Fried almonds add
depth of avour to this incredibly
refreshing bowlful. The waffles with
melted butter and honey look spongy
but sadly fail the taste test. They are
overwhelmingly eggy and also too thin
at the centre, sinking under the weight
of the delicious organic honey, served
in a chilled glass carafe. However, the
moist carrot cake and the ginger cake
served with clotted cream are very
popular. A slice of either would make
the perfect accompaniment to a latte.
QWHAT TO DRINK
Beverages include a range of organic
coffees and teas sourced from estates
in south India and a variety of healthy
fruit-and vegetable-based coolers.
But our vote, especially in the gloomy
monsoon months, goes to the standout
coffee. Made with a blend of Arabica
and Robusta beans ground in-house,
our cappuccino is crisp yet not too
bitter and richly fragrant. It pairs
particularly well with the square of dark
chocolate that it is served with.
QINSIDER TIP
No meal at Kala Ghoda Caf is
complete without sampling a toasted
slice of the unctuous multigrain bread
baked in-house. Made with organic
wholewheat and white our with bajra,
jowar, oats and oat bran added for
extra avour and nutrition, this is our
favourite loaf in Mumbai. But since it
contains no preservatives, it tends to get
crumbly within a couple of days.
QDETAILS
10, Ropewalk Lane, Kala Ghoda,
Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 2263 3866.
Timings: Daily 9 am 11 pm.
Snacks from ` 30; salads from ` 150;
sandwiches from ` 130; desserts from
` 105.

Quality: 7/10
Choice: 6/10
Provenance: 8/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Value: 7/10
Total: 35/50
Vidya Balachander

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 97


7THE GREY
GARDEN,
New Delhi
The ambience of The Grey Garden
lives up to its name. Narrow, winding
stairs lead up to a tiny, open-air terrace
garden on the third oor in Hauz Khas
Village. Verdant planters hanging off
a grey wall make up for the lack of
greenery. The muddy oor, eclectic
seating and lights remind us of a Goan
shack. However, instead of the sea,
one overlooks the Hauz Khas Lake.
The menu is as esoteric as the dcor,
with Japanese-style starters alongside
Moroccan or Kerala-inspired mains.
We start with a delicate salad, a
mix of ricotta, spinach, herbs and nashi
or Chinese pear. The crunchy walnut
caramel makes up for the too subtle
dressing. Although the menu mentions
puffed amaranth, we cant nd any
in our salad. Instead, there are some
dehydrated cherry tomatoes that add a
textural element, but not much by way
of taste.
The pizzas are delicious. Sliced into
little rectangles, one pizza is substantial
enough to be shared. The almond
pesto, olive, chilli and purple spinach
pizza is packed with avour. The fairly
thin crust is topped with a delicious
tomato sauce, but you can taste all the
individual ingredients with none of
them overpowering the others.
The Lamb Tagine is served with cous
cous. The three bony pieces of meat are
tough and the curry is too sweet. We
send it back and request for the Mango
Prawn Curry with rice. Predictably,
this curry is also sweet but a lot more
palatable than the lamb. The coconut
milk makes it rather rich and thick to
spoon over the accompanying rice.

QBESTSELLERS
Pizzas, bento boxes, desserts and
Photographs SAURABH SISODIA

specials of the day


QPROVENANCE
Most ingredients are bought from
Delhis INA market. Some vegetables
The terrace seating at
The Grey Garden overlooks are procured from an organic farm in
the Hauz Khas Lake Gurgaon. If a particular ingredient is
eat out
restaurant spy
out of stock then the recipe is altered to
use something else at hand.
QGO FOR STARTERS OR PUD?
7GREEN
THEORY,
Despite the limited choice available for
both, we suggest you go for the starters
Bengaluru
as the desserts are a tad too sweet. The Located in what used to be a bungalow
Japanese style Chicken Karage has on narrow, canopy-covered Convent
deep-fried pieces of succulent boneless Road, Green Theory has been
chicken, marinated in soy, ginger around since June 2011. It is one of
and garlic. Crunchy on the outside the rst exclusively vegetarian-and
and juicy within, this preparation vegan-friendly, organic restaurants
is avourful on its own and doesnt in Bengaluru to serve global cuisine.
really require the accompanying honey The outdoor section has our vote over
mustard dip. The other options include the air-conditioned indoors because
Zucchini Fritters and Lotus Crisps it has the relaxed, cosy feel of an old
with tzatziki and the Lamb Skewers Zucchini Fritters Bengaluru house with bamboo blinds
with pomegranate ketchup. The Peanut and Lotus Crisps and a mango tree with plenty of low
Butter Chocolate Mousse is supposed with Tzatziki hanging fruit. The waitstaff are gentle
to have honey and caramel ginger and pleasant mannered but need to
but it really tastes like very sweet, rich be more tuned in to the needs of the
chocolate mousse without any hint guests. The low, Japanese-style outdoor
of ginger. The Banoffee Pie comes seating may not be suited to everyones
with a thick, crumbly base that is the comfort. For a small caf, the menu is
only saving grace since the cream far quite vast, covering a variety of drinks,
outweighs the banana and toffee in starters, salads, mains, burgers and
terms of proportion. desserts. The dishes are from around
QWHAT TO DRINK the world right from Hungarian
The Grey Garden serves a range of goulash to Irish boxty.
mocktails, coffee, beer and wine. We try The Succotash Salad is full of
the Watermelon Rosemary Lemonade crunchy, fresh vegetables in a mustard-
that tastes neither of rosemary nor thyme dressing. The avours are fresh
of lemonade but is instead like a and bold, especially because the herbs
refreshingly sweet watermelon juice. are freshly picked from the pots in the
QINSIDER TIP restaurant. The Grilled Tofu Burger
Ask for the bento box even if the menu avoured with teriyaki sauce is a little
does not mention it. Including three lacking in avour, but the dish is
salads, brown rice and a choice of fresh and generously portioned. The
main (which fall under starters on the The Grey Garden has Hungarian Goulash we order with
menu), it is a well-priced meal at ` 420 an eclectic vibe a side of pasta is mouthwateringly
for the vegetarian and ` 520 for the delicious but on the spicy side. The
non-vegetarian option. It is also a good Piizz
zzas
as
as at Th
The Gr
G ey
ey pasta, however, is perfectly al dente and
takeaway option. Gard
Garden
rd en are
e sli
lice
ced
ced in
i to
to avoured impeccably.
re
ect
ctan
angl
g es
gles
QDETAILS
18 A, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi. QBESTSELLERS
Timings: 11am 11pm. Tel: +91 11 Zucchini Cream Soup, Roasted
2651 6450. Starters from ` 350; mains Vegetable Salad in Pesto Cream, Pesto
from ` 450; desserts from ` 300. Theory Pizza, Irish Vegetable Boxty
QPROVENANCE
Quality: 7/10 Although the restaurant doesnt claim
Atmosphere: 6/10 to be 100 per cent organic, the aim
Provenance: 5/10 is to serve fresh and organic food
Choice: 6/10 as far as possible. Organic pulses,
Value: 7/10 lentils, tomatoes, potatoes and some
Total: 31/50 other seasonal vegetables are sourced
Shibani Bawa from a local agro-farm. The organic

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 99


Clockwise
from left:
Green Theorys
Chilled Oreo
7LUMIERE,
Bengaluru
cheesecake; Lumiere occupies one half of an entire
The signature oor with the other half taken up by
Theory Sprouts an organic store by the same company.
Salad; Green Airy and spacious, the restaurant
Theorys cosy features cane and bamboo furniture.
outdoor section; The tables are inlaid with interesting
The airy and shell and bamboo patterns and
ingredients used in the restaurant spacious layout drawings. Low-lit but not so feebly as
are certied. Herbs are grown on the of Lumiere to make it difficult to read the menu,
premises. the atmosphere is one of warmth and
QGO FOR STARTERS OR PUD? comfort.
Go for the starters. The Nachos and The menu is fairly extensive, spread
the Cheese Potato Croquettes seem to QINSIDER TIP across north and south Indian and
be popular choices among the young Two off menu special drinks worth Continental cuisines with equal choice
crowd. We love the Broccoli Rolls with trying are the green iced tea and aam for vegetarians and non-vegetarians.
Chilli Dip. These are fried to perfection panna, made from raw mangoes from A brief explanation of the restaurants
and stuffed with fresh green broccoli the trees in their courtyard. If youre organic philosophy proves illuminating.
and mozzarella cheese. If youd rather in a hurry, the executive lunch menu The restaurant is 100 per cent organic;
stay off the fried stuff, choose the Roast comprising a soup, starter and main, is in case a certain ingredient is not
Vegetable Skewers. Their most popular a good option. The menu is available available, an alternate organic substitute
dessert is the Chilled Oreo Cheesecake, during weekdays and costs is found or the dish is not served
with an Oreo crust and a very light ` 399, inclusive of taxes. altogether. The restaurant also aims to
body made with cream and cream QDETAILS promote healthy eating, so the menu
cheese, which is quick to melt on a hot Green Theory, 15 Convent Road, Off features no deep-fried items.
summer afternoon. But the cheesecake Residency Road, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 For palates used to rich restaurant
is of a much smaller size than a regular 8861 435956. Timings: 11 am 11 food, Lumiere will come as a shock.
portion. pm. Starters from ` 130; mains from The food could even seem tasteless
QWHAT TO DRINK ` 230; drinks from ` 70. greentheory.in since it doesnt contain heavy fat,
The menu features smoothies, healthy spices, preservatives or additives. The
drinks, fresh juices, organic teas and Quality: 7/10 Tomato Soup, for instance, is closer
coffees.You must try the cucumber- Atmosphere: 7/10 to rasam in consistency and contains
cumin juice or the tomato-watermelon Provenance: 7/10 tulsi in place of basil. But the unusual
combination, which is especially Choice: 7/10 combination works, tingling and
refreshing in the summer. The carrot- Value: 7/10 cleansing the palate in preparation
ginger juice seems to be another Total: 35/50 for the meal. The Mixed Veg Curry is
favourite. Nandita Iyer not creamy or smooth but a bit round

100 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out
restaurant spy
around the edges instead. However, the
taste of each of the vegetables (such as
beans, carrot and capsicum) and the
black pepper seasoning comes through.
The free-range chicken used in the
Chettinad Chicken Curry tastes fresh
and the curry is refreshingly grease free
but nowhere near as ery as it should
be. The roti to mop up the chicken with
is a bit rough on the palate but thats
probably because the atta is made of
unsifted wholegrain wheat. Both the
appam and neer dosa are thicker than
normal but uffy and soft, with the
dosa almost melting in the mouth.
As a result, at the end of a
substantial meal, there is none of the
heaviness that weighs you down after
dining at a regular restaurant.

QBESTSELLERS
Garden Salad, Chicken Kebab, paneer
dishes
QPROVENANCE
All the produce used in the restaurant
is organic. Some of the vegetables
and greens come from Lumieres
organic farms, while the rest are
sourced from organic producers who
are either certied or vetted by the
management. Poultry is also reared
in-house. The organic milk is procured
from Akshayakalpa, an organic dairy is rather small. While tasty, the kul
in Tiptur, 150 km away. This is also and carrot halwa that we try are not
retailed at the organic store attached to exceptional.
the restaurant. QWHAT TO DRINK
QGO FOR STARTERS OR PUD? All beverages are organic, including
Denitely starters, for the sheer variety tea, coffee, fruit and vegetable juices,
of dishes as well as the freshness of the lassi, buttermilk and the wheatgrass
ingredients. For instance, the Veg Seekh shot, which is a bit of an acquired taste.
Kabab might taste a bit dry at rst The jackfruit and celery welcome drink
because it contains very little fat. But we are served is refreshing, with the
combined with a tasty mint dip, it is sweetness of the jackfruit broken by the Outer Ring Road, Doddanekundi, Clockwise from
transformed. Having been steamed in sharp avour of the celery. Marathahalli, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 top: Some of
lettuce leaves instead of banana leaves QINSIDER TIP 6534 1133. Timings 12 noon 4 pm; the produce
since the restaurant has run out of the The kitchen is happy to tailor and 7 pm 11 pm. Starters from ` 175; used in Lumiere
latter, the Banana Leaf Steamed Fish modify dishes and even make off-menu mains from ` 275; desserts from ` 175. is grown on
is not as fragrant as we expect it to be. items but only with available organic their own
But the lettuce adds a crunchy texture ingredients. For instance, you could Quality: 8/10 organic farm;
to the thick marinade in which the sh request for a Chinese dish but it would Choice: 7/10 The tomato
is cooked. The Grilled Fish Chunks are come minus ajinomoto and soya sauce. Provenance: 10/10 soup with tulsi
highly recommended mildly seasoned The restaurant also serves an elaborate Atmosphere: 7/10 in place of basil;
and grilled to perfection, the spices lunch buffet spread for ` 449. Value: 8/10 Fluffy appams
dont mask the inherent avour of QDETAILS Total: 40/50 at Lumiere
the sh. In contrast, the dessert menu 27/7, Sri Kote Ashirwad Towers, Anita Rao-Kashi

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 101


vs
Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about a restaurant as a food pro who might
be recognised and get special treatment? Good Food reader Chabi Agarwal and food columnist
Shaun Kenworthy offer their individual takes on The Flying Monk in Kolkata

THE RESTAURANT THE PRO FIRST IMPRESSIONS THE SERVICE


With blacked-out windows, its Very prompt. But as
easy to give the restaurant a miss we are among the rst
and drive past in the daytime diners, the service
as there really is nothing that tends to get a little over
stands out except for a board attentive. We are offered
that reads mystic avours of both the tasting menu
Shaun Kenworthy the Orient. We nd it easier to and the la carte options,
is a chef, restaurant spot in the evening. The setting is from which we choose the
consultant and travel dimly lit and cosy with a bold red latter. Our salad arrives
and food columnist glass wall at the rear end of the quickly but thereafter, as
based in Kolkata. restaurant. The dcor is simple the restaurant starts to
with comfortable seating and I ll up, the service starts
hear strains of contemporary jazz to wane. The chef himself
in the background. comes over to take our
main course order. Its
THE FLYING MONK nice to see female service
Nestled in Kolkatas Woodburn Park, The Flying staff, something you
Monk specialises in the cuisines of China, Japan, rarely see outside of the
Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore and Korea. Quirky ve stars in the city.
paintings inspired by geometrical Chinese puzzles
called tangram adorn the walls at this sprawling
ne dining restaurant. The vast menu offers a THE PUNTER Located in one of the prime The service staff at the
range of delicacies that go well beyond standard areas of the city, this Oriental restaurant is made up of
Oriental fare. Notable dishes include Crispy Duck restaurant looks quite simple and experienced and relatively
Salad, Grilled Asparagus and Prawn with Chilli unpretentious. Unassuming but newer people. The trained
Oyster Sauce and Stone Baked Tofu Asparagus welcoming, the well-lit space may staff members are well
Steak. Signature dishes include Aromatic Crispy not catch your attention but has a informed and forthcoming
Duck and Prawn and Crab Meat with Almond pleasant vibe. It could have had a with suggestions while the
Flakes. more upmarket feel though. The relatively inexperienced
Chabi Agarwal is a tables are cluttered due to a lack of ones have problems with
QThe Flying Monk, 234/3A, FMC Fortuna Kolkata-based graphic space. They could be more spaced knowledge about the
Building, AJC Bose Road, Kolkata. Tel: + 91 33 designer who enjoys out. menu as well as service
40011414. Daily 12.30 pm 3.30 pm and 6.30 pm eating out, reading and standards. One of them
11 pm. Average spend for two: ` 2,000. photography. even spilled food while
serving. Overall the service
Pushy table turning? No is prompt but sometimes
Regular water offered? Yes not up to the mark.
Veggie options? Plenty of choice

102 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out
restaura
ant reviews

Christmas cake with Lamb Dumpling in Asian


Ginseng Blueberry Tea wood-smoked BBQ Sauce Kolkata Bekti in Chilli Mustard sauce

THE FOOD THE VERDICT THE BILL


The Rocket and Seaweed Salad with Japanese Pickled Plum Dressing is good A noteworthy entrant Kenworthys meal for two
but not really true to what is described on the menu. There is indeed rocket, to the Kolkata foodie including two entres, three
wakame (edible seaweed) and agar strands, which make up around 20 per cent landscape! Kolkata main courses, two desserts and
of the salad. The dressing is slightly sweet and has an unexplainable tang to it. doesnt have too many half a bottle of Indian wine was
A delicious Lotus Leaf Wrapped Steamed Kolkata Bekti follows, which is listed places that are trying ` 3,460 excluding taxes.
under the dim sum section. The sh is steamed to perfection with soy, ginger, to push the envelope.
basil and chilli. It is delicious in its simplicity. Our Norwegian Salmon in Burnt Besides, this is one of FOOD: 7/10
Lotus Leaf is served on a charcoal grill and smells deliciously smoky. Sadly, the only standalone ATMOSPHERE: 4/10
the salmon is seasoned with little more than salt and pepper. The lemon garlic restaurants where SERVICE: 6/10
butter mentioned on the menu does not exist, although the sh is cooked youll get to sample sea
perfectly. The Double Cooked Crispy Duck with Hoisin Butter comes with a scallops. When we leave, TOTAL: 17/30
resin-like, rich hoisin butter glaze, perfect against the crisp crunch of the duck the restaurant is packed
skin. The accompanying Japanese teppanyaki garlic rice is sticky with lots of with customers in the GO AGAIN?
chopped chives and fried garlic. waiting area. Sundays 100 per cent.
My dining companion cajoles me into ordering dessert. The Muddy should be off limits for
Pineapple is disappointing. The compound chocolate used translates into a couples looking for a
crumbly chocolate dessert on top of chopped pineapple. The Trio of Sorbets quiet evening; there are
are refreshing and not too sweet. We try the Japanese Pink Ginger, Basil and too many kids!
Red Chilli and Orange and Lemon that has a slightly bitter aftertaste.

At rst glance we feel this newly opened restaurant has the potential to be one The service and the Agarwals meal for two
of the ner Oriental restaurants in the city. The extensive and diverse menu overall experience need including three entres and
manages to strike a balance between authentic and experimental food. The to be improved. However, three main courses was ` 2,020
restaurant is yet to receive a full-time alcohol licence (currently available only it is good value for excluding taxes.
on weekends), which can be a bit of a spoiler. Sadly, we nd that the food looks money as the prices are
and smells better than it tastes. The avours would have worked better had fairly reasonable and the FOOD: 7/10
they been more authentic and subtle. The veggies used in the Vietnamese portions rather generous. ATMOSPHERE: 7/10
Fresh Rice Paper Rolls are perfectly diced and the chilli peanut sauce is SERVICE: 6/10
pleasing to the palate. The Grilled Asparagus and Prawn with Chilli Oyster
Sauce has perfectly cooked prawns and lip smacking charred asparagus. The TOTAL: 20/30
only letdown of the dish is the over-peppered sauce. What strikes us the most
about our next dish, the Stone Baked Tofu Asparagus Steak, is the presentation GO AGAIN?
of the dish the tofu comes perched on top of a hot lava stone. But we nd Yes. I would denitely like to go
it quite difcult to be pick the bland tofu off the stone. However, the again.
spicy Sichuan Noodles more than make up for the avourless tofu. Want to review a restaurant?
For a chance to become Good Foods
The biggest let down of our meal is unexpectedly the Norwegian
next punter, email a 200-word review
Salmon in Burnt Lotus Leaf. Considering it is one of the costliest items of any restaurant youve visited,
on the menu, we are disappointed to nd our salmon overcooked. with the heading Pro vs Punter, to
It is worth noting however, that this is one of the few standalone bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in with your
contact details. You could be the
restaurants in Kolkata to serve duck. lucky one!

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 103


Snack central
Vinay Health Home
Over the last 73 years, Vinay Health Home has scripted an incredible success story with
its wholesome yet no-frills Maharashtrian offerings
Words VIDYA BALACHANDER Photographs SANJIV VALSAN

Vinay Health Home


attracts a steady stream of
customers through the day

I
ts rather unusual for a several restaurants as casualties, Vinay when you consider that it offers the
restaurateur in Mumbai but Health Home, the restaurant Tembe very antithesis of fancy food. For the
Chandrashekhar Tembe co-owns with his brother Anil, has not most part, the menu includes no-
is a content man. He has agged in popularity since it opened nonsense Maharashtrian snacks perfect
no complaints not against the way back in 1940. If anything, loyal for a quick meal on the go sabudana
authorities, not against his employees customers have spread the gospel of its wada, thalipith, poha, usal and misal pav.
and most certainly not against his authentic Maharashtrian-style fare far Even though contemporary tastes have
customers. By his own admission, fate beyond the bustling bylanes of Girgaon been accommodated with the inclusion
has been extraordinarily kind to him. the heart of the old city and of sandwiches and milkshakes, the fame
Even though Mumbais cityscape has welcomed new followers into the fold. of the restaurant still rests squarely
changed astonishingly, with spiralling The runaway success of the on the timeless classics introduced by
real estate and labour costs claiming restaurant is particularly remarkable Tembes father Ramkrishna Vishnu

104 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out
off the eaten track
Tembe when he started the restaurant. seven tables, and until 1975 the wait
Being from a Brahmin family, the staff didnt wear uniforms. Then, as
selection of dishes was kept purely to this day, the weekly holiday was on
vegetarian a legacy that continues to Wednesday. Wednesday falls right
this day. between the Sunday that has gone
Although wholesome and by and the Sunday that is to come.
comforting, Vinay Health Homes For both customers and employees,
dishes dont exactly meet present-day Wednesday is a feel-good day,
denitions of health food. Whether explains Tembe. Gradually, when Chandrashekhar Tembe
it is the golden, crispy-fried sabudana the restaurants fortunes began to (centre) has helmed the
restaurant since 1972
wada or the potato-laden poha, the look up, Ramkrishna Tembe bought
dishes are a carb lovers delight. So over the rented premise where the
how did the restaurant come to acquire restaurant is located. In 1972, when
its association with good health? The Chandrashekhar was 23 and his
answer can be found in a humorous brother a few years younger, they
anecdote that involves the senior became partners in the business. Part
Tembe, a Marathi novelist and gym of the reason they took the plunge was
equipment. to improve their matrimonial prospects:
When Ramkrishna Tembe set out When marriage proposals came,
in the food business, he wanted to do instead of saying I was sitting in the
so on his own terms. Since the family restaurant, it sounded better to say I
already owned an eatery called Tembe was a partner, Tembe recalls candidly.
Vishranti Gruh, he wanted to give Over the years, the restaurant
his venture an all-new identity, one has expanded to a 2,200-square-feet
not associated with his family name. property that includes a parcel counter
The kothimbir wadi, Puneri
Tembes father was fond of reading misal and sabudana wada
are must tries
novels by Marathi writer Nasi Phadke. In
his novels there was a character called Patrons enjoying
a quick yet
Vinay. Tembe senior decided to name the wholesome meal

restaurant after him. To lend the name


additional heft, he called it a health home
My father was fond of reading novels adjacent to the restaurant, a separate
by a Marathi writer called Narayan air-conditioned section and a small
Sitaram (Nasi) Phadke, explains hall that can be rented out for private
Chandrashekhar Tembe. In his celebrations. Having been renovated
novels, there was a character called several times, most recently in 2003,
Vinay and my father decided to name the restaurant wears a bright, scrubbed-
the restaurant after him. To lend clean look. If you pause to take a look,
the name additional heft, he called it you will notice that the glass wall that
a health home. Over the years, the offers a peek into the air-conditioned The eye-catching exterior
of Vinay Health Home
name has been a source of amusement
for the family. A lady once wrote to
me from Aurangabad saying her son Top 5 dishes to try
wants to join a gymnasium, recounts 7 Puneri misal
Tembe. She wanted to buy dumbbells 7 Sabudana wada
from us!
7 Thalipith
Back when it rst began, Vinay
7 Shengdana usal
Health Home was considerably smaller
than it is now. The 500-square feet 7 Piyush
restaurant could accommodate just
eat out
off the eaten track
Kothimbir wadi is a popular item Batata wadas
ready to be fried

Snacks at Vinay Health Home


pair brilliantly with tea

section is printed with Marathi words. Whether its the kothimbir wadi, small businesses tightly nestled together
These serve as especially apt adjectives squares of coriander-ecked besan WHAT have opened up to change. A few years
to describe the food: garma garam our deep-fried until golden brown WE ago, the rst multi-storied residential
(hot), taaze (fresh) and tikhat (spicy), or the thalipith savoury, palm-sized LIKE tower in the area sprung up as a vertical
among other things. atbreads made with a mix of ours counterpoint to the mostly squat
No matter how busy the day may most traditional snacks served at Apart from skyline. Although Vinay Health Homes
be, orders always arrive at your table Vinay Health Home have a discernible the Puneri clientele includes wealthy residents of
swiftly and warm off the fryer or pan. though not overwhelming sweetness. misal and the the area, the prices remain surprisingly
This freshness is Vinay Health Homes The reason? Although ours is a sabudana wada, affordable, with the thalipith costing
trademark it elevates otherwise Maharashtrian restaurant, 70 per cent its worth trying just ` 35 and the Puneri misal ` 75.
commonplace snacks like sabudana of our customers are Gujarati and the rajgira puri The costliest item on the menu still
wada by several notches and makes Rajasthani and they found the food too paired with the comes in at under ` 100. Tembe is
them worth coming back for. At Vinay, spicy, says Tembe. We have reduced restaurants reluctant to discuss numbers, but even
the sabudana wada, a starchy breakfast the spiciness of our dishes on popular excellent as a visitor to the restaurant, its hard
speciality made of sago and mashed demand. To cater to this clientele, the garlic chutney not to notice that business is brisk at all
potatoes, is deep fried to a crisp. When menu has also expanded to include Jain that provides times. Although Tembe counts a long
you use your spoon to cleave into the dishes. Apart from regular dishes, Vinay a hit of heat list of famous names among his regular
butterscotch brown wadas, they yield Health Home also offers a special without being customers, he says he has never sought
with an audible crunch. The mildly upvaas (fasting) menu available only on overpowering. publicity for his restaurant, preferring
sweet wadas pair perfectly with the bland Saturdays. This menu opens a window Also try the to rely on the time-honoured word-of-
potato and peanut curry they are served into little-known specialities of the piyush, a thick mouth route. Even when we renovated
with. While Puneri misal is best known Kokanastha Brahmin community such and creamy the restaurant in 2003, we didnt call
as a ery lentil curry with generous as rajgira puri, a nutty, slightly gritty drink that is a any politicians or celebrities, he says.
lashings of masala, the version served puri made of rajgira or amaranth our, cross between We inaugurated it with the regular
at Vinay Health Home is far tamer shengdana usal, a avour-packed curry shrikhand and customers who come here. This
yet unique and avourful. Neither too made with boiled peanuts and khamang lassi, best down-to-earth approach to food has
oily nor too dry, the misal has sprouts kakdi, a crunchy cucumber salad with slurped up with served as the ticket to the restaurants
cooked till soft yet not mushy topped nely diced cucumbers, powdered a fat straw. success.
with cooked, beaten rice akes or poha; peanuts and chillies with a tempering of Address: Jawahar Mansion,
crunchy farsaan and nely chopped cumin and mustard seeds. Dr BA Jaikar Marg, Charni Road,
onions, in a savoury curry with an In the last 72 years, the historic, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 2208 1211.
underpinning of chilli heat. narrow lanes of Girgaon bustling with Thursday to Tuesday 7 am-10 pm.

106 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat out
restaurant recipe
Mumbais newest casual dining
eatery Aoi offers Japanese fare
with a twist. Origami-crafted birds
and quirky Manga murals adorn
the interiors. The experimental
yet unpretentious menu boasts
dishes such as gyoza (dumplings),
Stewed Beef in Red Pepper
Miso Sauce, Sushi Rice Risotto
with Brandy-flavoured Newberg
Prawns and Bento boxes. Also
on offer are a variety of sushi
like Crab Sushi with Japanese
Mayonnaise and Chives, and Blue
Cheese and Asparagus Sushi.

Signature dish
Aoi
salt and pepper to taste
Chef Mitesh Rangras shares his recipe
for this hearty Japanese meal in a bowl
QThirty minutes before serving,
sugar a pinch cook the rice in a rice cooker, pot or a
light soy sauce 2 tsp pressure cooker with water and rice
soft boiled eggs 2, sliced vinegar seasoning (the idea is to not
drain the water). Make a dressing for
THE STICKY RICE the pickled carrots with rice vinegar,
Japanese sticky rice 150g sugar and salt. Marinate the carrots
water (or vegetable stock) 300ml well with the dressing and refrigerate
salt to taste for an hour.
Grilled chicken donburi rice vinegar 25ml QMake the teriyaki sauce by sauting
with teriyaki sauce the ginger in sesame oil. Add the
Serves 2 Q30 minutes + marinating THE PICKLED CARROTS teriyaki sauce and red miso paste and
Q MODERATELY EASY rice vinegar 200ml cook for 2-3 minutes. Add water, salt,
sugar 150g pepper and adjust consistency. You can
Donburi is a Japanese rice dish with salt 1 tsp also add chopped red chilli. Grill or
meat or veggies cooked and served carrots 80-100g, thinly sliced pan-fry the chicken for 7-8 minutes on
on top of the rice or cooked together. lengthways each side or until cooked. Slice it thinly.
If you dont have Japanese rice you QIn the meantime, heat olive oil in a
can substitute it with any other short- THE TERIYAKI SAUCE pan. Add the diced vegetables. Add the
grained glutinous rice. ginger 1 tsp rmer vegetables like carrots at the
sesame oil 10ml start and the softer ones like pok choy
chicken breast 200g EXCLUSIVE! teriyaki sauce 150ml at the end. Toss for 2-3 minutes. Add
teriyaki sauce 50ml Step-by-step recipe red miso paste 2 tsp salt, sugar, pepper, light soya sauce and
basil 5-6 leaves, chopped Watch this signature salt and pepper to taste toss for 2 more minutes.
garlic 1 tsp, chopped dish come alive on QTo assemble, take a at bowl or a
ginger 1/2 tsp, chopped video! Details QA day before, marinate the chicken pasta plate. Place the cooked rice and
oil 20ml on p 11 breast with teriyaki sauce, chopped all the other prepared components on
mixed vegetables (carrot, broccoli, garlic and ginger and refrigerate top. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds
corn, pok choy, zucchini) 30g each, overnight. Remove the chicken from (black and white) and serve hot with
diced the refrigerator and keep aside. extra soy sauce and the teriyaki sauce.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 107


eat away
Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip!
IN THIS ISSUE
7Eat like a local: Singapore, p 110
7A culinary guide to Manali, p 116
7Budget and Blowout guide to Cape Town, p 121
7Postcard from Chennai, p 122

There's no better place


to try smelly durian
than Singapore p 115
eat like a local
Singapore
At the crossroads of several Asian cultures, Singapore is a food-obsessed city that offers
the most incredible culinary experiences
Words and photographs ALEX SANCHEZ

U
pon my arrival in ethnicities was so embedded in the pre-
Singapore, something existing cultural patchwork that it was MENU FOR 4
feels amiss. Ive heard difficult to identify a singular cultural 7 Laksa flan
near legendary accounts identity for the new city-state. It is this 7 Lobster fried rice
of its culinary treasures just waiting incredible ethnic diversity that makes 7 Steamed grouper with
to be discovered, but where are Singaporean cuisine so fascinating,
special coral sauce
they? Sleek, modern buildings and and, above all, so delicious.
immaculate roads stretch on for miles, Today, Singapore is a thriving 7 Passionfruit and
greenery and blue skies abound. Still, cosmopolitan city. Well known for David Ansted is citronella jelly
there is no sign of the food Mecca I was its strict policies, efficiency, and the Executive
promised. I sit quietly in the taxi, my cleanliness, it has garnered an unfair Chef at St Regis, Laksa an
eyes wide and appetite strong, when reputation for being a sterile city. But Singapore Serves 4 Q1 hour 15 minutes
I suddenly tune in to the driver. I look beyond the more supercial QA LITTLE EFFORT
love when you take a bit of raw durian qualities of this city and you will
and mix it with a little of the frozen encounter one of the most vibrant THE LAKSA PASTE
durian! He is muttering to himself, food cultures on the planet. Ask ve white onions 5, chopped
professing his love for durian, a fruit people to tell you the best place to get macademia nuts 6 (try Mac Farms
with tropical undertones and a putrid black pepper crab and expect to get available at gourmet stores)
aroma. I realise then that the only way ve different answers, all of which shrimp paste 40g (try Lee Kum Kee
to penetrate the depths of Singapores lead you to the best crab youll ever available at gourmet stores)
fabled food culture is through its food- taste. Enquire about the best place in fresh turmeric 1-inch piece, peeled and
loving people. town for laksa (a spicy seafood noodle sliced
Strategically perched on the soup with a rich coconut broth) and garlic cloves 10, chopped
southernmost tip of Malaysia, youre sure to stir up a controversy. dried chillies 8, soaked to soften
Singapore became a vital trading post From the most well-travelled individual dried shrimp 3 tsp, soaked in warm
to the British nearly 200 years ago and right down to the local, everyone you water and drained
has since been considered one of the counter in Singapore is likely to have an coriander 10 sprigs
most signicant ports in the East. By impressive knowledge and appreciation galangal 80g, peeled and sliced
opening itself to merchants from Asia for food. salt 2 tsp
and beyond, Singapore underwent The best way to immerse yourself
a cultural transformation, resulting into the local food is to sit down at a THE FLAN
in the crosspollination of Chinese, hawker centre. Hawker centres (large chicken stock 600ml
Malay, Peranakan (descendents of 15th open-air complexes housing food coconut milk 200ml
Century Chinese immigrants), Indian, stalls) rst came about as a way for the lemongrass 2 stalks, white part only,
Indonesian, and European inuences. Singaporean government to control crushed
When Singapore became independent the food safety and sanitation of street coriander 100g
of Malaysia in 1965, each of these food vendors. It was an ingenious way eggs 3

110 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat away
singapore

Photograph PICTURENET/CORBIS
Photograph SHREYA GUPTA

Skyscrapers mark the


Laksa flan skyline of Singapore

328 Katong Laksa is a great Steamed grouper with


place for authentic laksa special coral sauce
THE COCONUT EMULSION oyster sauce 80g
prawn stock 200ml eggs 6
coriander 50g white rice 600g, cooked, chilled and
lemongrass 1 stalk, outer layers dried
removed, chopped chicken powder to taste(try Knorrs
coconut cream 250ml (try Blue available at grocery stores)
Elephant available at gourmet stores) light soy sauce to taste (try Blue
Dragon available at gourmet stores)
TO FINISH white pepper to taste
prawns 4 medium, peeled and cooked spring onions 8, nely chopped, to
garnish
Smelly durian evokes strong
reactions from people QTo make the laksa paste, place all
the ingredients into a food processor QLightly marinate the lobster with
and grind until smooth. salt for 30 minutes, then dredge in a
to not only control and improve the quality of street food QHeat 3 tbsp oil over medium-high light coating of cornour.
but also create a unique, low-cost dining experience for the heat and add the paste, cooking until QHeat the oil in a wok until it is very
public. Each stall specialises in only one or two dishes but dark and fragrant, approximately 5 hot. With the lobster in a strainer,
the deceptively simple food has been rened and perfected minutes. Preheat the oven to 175C. place it quickly in the hot oil, remove
over time. Look for staples like laksa, Hainanese curry rice, For the an, combine all ingredients and drain on a clean paper towel.
Hainese chicken and rice, sh head curry, chicken and prawn in a blender, blend until smooth and QBoil the carrots and asparagus in a
satays, oyster omelettes, fried carrot cake, roti prata, and black strain through a ne sieve. Distribute pot for 2 minutes and remove.
pepper crab. the an base evenly between 4 QIn a wok or large saut pan, add
But Singapores great food is by no means limited to its heatproof bowls, and place them in a 4 tbsp of the lobster oil. Once the
hawker centres. One trip to the Marina Bay Sands and it deep baking dish. oil is heated, add oyster sauce, eggs
becomes amply evident that Singapore is on par with the QFill the baking dish with hot water, and white rice, and stir-fry until well
worlds greatest food destinations. The culinary roster there about 1/2-inch up the sides of the mixed. Add lobster meat, asparagus,
reads like an all-star team: Guy Savoy, Mario Batali, Wolfgang bowls, and cover with silver foil. and carrots, and mix well. Season
Puck, Daniel Boulud, Tetsuya Wakuda and more. If ne QBake for 45 minutes or until they with chicken powder, light soy sauce
dining isnt your thing, casual restaurants offering high quality are soft like tofu and a toothpick and white pepper to taste. Garnish
food are scattered throughout the city. Regardless of what inserted into the centre should come with spring onions and serve.
youre after, Singapore rarely, if ever, disappoints the food- away clean.
loving traveller. QTo make the emulsion, boil the Steamed grouper
prawn stock with the Vietnamese with special coral
coriander and lemongrass for 15 sauce
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE minutes to infuse the avours. Serves 4 Q30 minutes + marinating
QSingapore boasts one of the worlds cleanest, Remove from the heat and add the QEASY
quickest, and most efcient public transportation coconut cream. Blend with a hand
services. Known as SMRT, or Singapore Mass Rapid blender before serving to get a light grouper 4, about 160g each
Transit, this service uses a network of buses, trains, and frothy consistency. salt to taste
light rails to get you to virtually any corner of the city QServe the ans warm and garnish sugar to taste
within minutes. A Singapore Tourist Pass is available with 1 medium prawn and a few chicken powder 1 tsp (try Knorrs
at SIN$10 (roughly ` 440) per day, which allows you spoonfuls of the coconut emulsion. available at grocery stores)
unlimited access to any bus, train, or light rail within the crabmeat 80g (try Bumblebee
city limits. (thesingaporetouristpass.com.sg) Lobster fried rice available at gourmet stores)
QThe Marina Bay Sands (marinabaysands.com), Serves 4 Q25 minutes + marinating carrots 20g, nely chopped
which opened in June 2010, is a massive complex QEASY broccoli florets 500g, steamed +
containing a mall, an ice skating rink, a museum, a 20g, nely chopped
casino, seven celebrity chef-owned restaurants, and lobster tail meat 800g, diced chicken stock 400ml
a 2,561-room hotel topped off with a 340 metre-long (available fresh at your local sh egg whites 2, beaten
SkyPark. Head down there around sunset, grab a drink market) white pepper 1/4 tsp
at Ku De Ta atop the 57th oor, and soak in the view. salt to taste + extra for marinating cornstarch 2 tsp mixed with cold
Or treat yourself to one of the ne restaurants on offer cornflour for dusting water 1 tsp
before catching STOMP, a brilliant rhythmic experience oil 1l ginger 20g, sliced, fried crisp
straight from Broadway. carrot 60g, diced prosciutto 20g, chopped and fried
asparagus 60g, diced until crisp

112 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat away
singapore

Lobster fried rice Passionfruit and citronella jelly

Hawker centres are the best way to


sample Singapores local specialities
QMarinate the grouper llets with a
dash of salt, sugar, and chicken powder
for 30 minutes.
QSteam the llets for 5 minutes and
keep warm until serving. Place the
crabmeat, carrot, and 20g broccoli in
a pot, cover with water, and boil for 2
minutes. Remove from heat and drain
the water.
QIn a wok, add the stock, eggs,
crabmeat, carrot, broccoli, white
pepper, and cornstarch slurry. Bring to
the boil and pour over the llets.
QBreak the fried ginger and fried

Photograph DEAN CONGER/CORBIS


prosciutto into small bits, place over
the llets and serve with steamed
Satay is a must-try street food broccoli.
staple of Singapore
Passionfruit and
citronella jelly
Serves 4 Q15 minutes + boiling +
overnight refrigerating QEASY
MINI-GUIDETO SINGAPORE
EAT fresh passionfruit 60g, seeds and
QBrasserie Les Saveurs (stregissingapore. Singapore. I recommend 328 Katong Laksa, juice
com/brasserielessaveurs) is a gem hidden a ne example of laksa, striking the perfect
within the St. Regis hotel. Enter the opulent balance between coconut, chilli heat and pure THE CITRONELLA JELLY
dining room, sit down to the signature sea minerality. (53 E Coast Rd. Tel: +65 9021 pandan leaves 60g
St. Regis Connoisseur Dinner (`(` 3,800 2384) lemon leaves 20g
per person), and allow the talented Chef QLau Pa Sat (18 Rafes Quay. Tel: +65 lemongrass 60g, tough outer layers
Alexandre Lozachmeur, disciple of Alain 6220 2138) is one of the citys nest hawker removed, chopped
Ducasse, to guide you through an experience centres. Go at night when the entire street waterr 600ml
on par with the great 3-star Michelin is blocked off to trafc and becomes home sugarr 75g
temples of France. Lozachmeur is a fanatic to some of the best satay in the city. Order a agar agar 1g
when it comes to produce, all of which is cold Tiger, and watch as masters of the grill gelatin 3g
painstakingly sourced at its peak. The sh is battle it out for top honours.
own in directly off the coasts of France and QBoil the pandan leaves, lemon
New Zealand and arrives to your plate the SLEEP leaves and lemongrass in water for
same day. QThe St. Regis Singapore (stregissingapore. 90 minutes, covered.
QFor a lesson in the wonders of simplicity, com) strikes the perfect balance between QStrain the mixture to retain only
head to Mario Batalis Singapore outpost of luxury, comfort and personality. Sure, theyve the liquid and add the sugar, agar
Osteria Mozza (2 Bayfront Avenue, B1-42/46, got all the amenities to compete with any agar and gelatin. Stir well and strain
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore. of the worlds nest ve-star properties again through a ne sieve to avoid any
Tel: +65 6688 8522). In partnership with (personalised butler service, an award-wining lumps.
Chef Nancy Silverton (of La Brea Bakery, spa, an innity pool, a eet of Bentleys, and QPour the mixture into a tray and
Los Angeles) and famed restaurateur a pillow menu with 16 options), but they also refrigerate overnight.
Joe Bastianich, Chef Batali has helped to have a story. Enter the Astor bar, and youre QTo serve, cut the jelly into cubes and
create one of the nest Italian restaurants immediately transported to New Yorks place in chilled serving bowls. Top up
in Singapore. Add to that a convivial 5th Ave, circa 1904. Rooms from ` 29,000 with fresh passionfruit.
atmosphere and friendly staff, and youve got onwards.
a no-brainer for a great night out. QCentrally located, Hotel 1929 (hotel1929.
QThe ongoing debate over who serves up com) is an efcient boutique hotel on the
the best laksa in Singapore might never end. outskirts of Chinatown, which provides a
Thankfully, this cutthroat competition has clean room and a solid breakfast. Rooms from
resulted in some of the most delicious food in ` 3,500 onwards.
eat away
singapore
MENU DECODER
LAKSA A Also referred to as Curry
Laksa, the most well-known version
of this Peranakan speciality is a rich,
spicy coconut-based soup with thick,
broken rice noodles, cockles, prawns,
Vietnamese coriander, and samball chilli
paste.
CHAR KWAY TEOW Most often found
in hawker centres, this is a stir-fry
comprising at rice noodles, Chinese
sausage, cockles, beansprouts, pork fat
and prawns.
Laksa curry
XIAO LONG BAO Sometimes referred
to as a soup dumpling, though not
Photograph SONA BAHADUR

considered a dumpling in Chinese


culture, this is a delicate steamed bun
with a silken wrapper and a avourful
lling typically consisting of minced
pork. What distinguishes the buns?
They are lled with a gelatinous,
concentrated stock that turns liquid
when steamed, creating the soup-like
effect within the bun.
SATAY Y Marinated chicken, beef,
mutton, duck, pork, or prawns,
skewered and grilled. They are
typically no more than a couple of bites Its worth trying durian
while youre in Singapore An open-air food court
per skewer. It is served with a fragrant
peanut dipping sauce.
HOKKIEN MEE Unique to Singapore, MUST-BUY
it is a rich seafood noodle dish in which SINGAPORE SLING MEMORABILIA A The allure and history of the famous Singapore Sling has
the noodles are rst fried in oil and a far surpassed the actual quality of the drink but thats done little to stop tourists from dropping
fragrant shrimp broth, then stir-fried the hefty SIN$26 for the privilege of slurping one down. Luckily, you can get equal enjoyment
with shrimp, slices of pork, lime, and from the many Singapore Sling souvenirs available in the Rafes gift shop.
spring onion. PRIMA TASTE SAUCE KITS Prima Taste makes excellent kits that can be used at home to
replicate any of the delicious food you taste while in Singapore. Their laksa and char kway teow
Photograph KAREN ANAND

Try Kaya jam kits are particularly good.


at La Kun CHINESE DRIED SEAFOOD Dried seafood is an essential component of traditional Chinese
Kaya Taste, a cookery and can be found at a very high quality in Singapore. Look for dried cuttlesh, scallops,
local chain of
cafs abalone and sea cucumber.
UNIQUE CUTLERY Chinatown is full of all sorts of great, inexpensive kitchen utensils
and gadgets. The coolest thing I came across was a set of bowls specially designed to hold
chopsticks!
SINGAPORE KAYA Kaya, which means rich in Malay, is a local jam made from eggs, coconut
milk, sugar and pandan leaves. It tastes best spread over toast.
TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDICINE Eastern medicine relies heavily on the use of tonics and
tinctures made of roots, herbs, woods and other extracts to promote and sustain good health.
High-quality ginseng is hard to come by but available in abundance in Singapore.

GETTING THERE
IndiGo Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and Jet Airways all operate direct ights from Mumbai,
Delhi and Chennai. Rates start at ` 19,000 for a return ticket. Indian nationals are required
to obtain a tourist visa before entering Singapore. Visit singapore.visahq.in for step-by-step
instructions. A tourist visa costs roughly ` 2,000 including travel agency fees.
EAT7DO7SHOP7SLEEP

City on the plate


Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA

Manali
With its dizzying array of culinary delights including Chinjabi trout
cool Manali is a travel-worthy destination for the food minded
Words ANISA NARIMAN

O
ne of Indias most Tel: +91 9816699663) offers great Left, from top:
popular hill stations, vegetarian pizzas, especially the A steep climb
Manali offers much delicious Four Cheese Pizza (` 350). up Old Manali;
more than just dizzying Walk to Pizza Olive (Tel: +91 A shepherd
heights and chilly weather all year 9816191541) in Old Manali for their with his herd
round. Travellers often use it as a pit scrumptious Pesto and Sundried of goats on the
stop to reach higher planes like the Tomato pizza. If youre a meat end, road leading
Rohtang Pass the gateway to Lahaul you can opt for ham and salami to the Jana
Valley and Spiti Valley. The infamous toppings. Visit Il Forno (Hadimba falls; Misri
hash trail is another draw that brings Temple Road; Tel: +91 9816922481) khumani is one
hippies from all over the world, while for delectable Italian fare. Set in a of the locally
the picturesque snow peaks attract 100-year-old Himachali home in cultivated fruits
ocks of honeymooners. Adventure the midst of a lush garden, this al Facing page:
Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA

junkies can try their hand at just about fresco caf is perfect for warm, sunny Martins, a
anything here from hang gliding to lunches. The cosy wooden interiors family-run
rock climbing and skiing. are straight out of a Hansel and Gretel eatery, is
Geographically, Manali is divided story. Due to a dispute, Roberta, the surrounded by
into two parts the new town, which Italian proprietor of the restaurant, no a garden and
includes the crowded and touristy longer runs the place. Even though apple orchards
Mall Road, and Old Manali, which the food tastes the same, it isnt certain
attracts a mix of foreigners and young how long the restaurant will be able to
travellers. Despite being overburdened sustain itself without her. Until it does,
by tourists, especially during the peak try their wonderful pizzas; the Mutton
summer season, Manali has a magic to Spezzatino, a heart-warming stew to
it that makes it hard not to return. But get you through the cold walk home;
what really sets it apart from other hill Mushroom Lasagna, and of course, the
stations is the smorgasbord of exciting Fiammetta a gooey chocolate dessert
cuisines. Who would imagine that you that is truly decadent.
could eat everything from Korean to It would be futile to visit Manali
Italian at an altitude of 6,398 feet? and not get your hands on some local
Photograph ANISA NARIMAN

river trout. Johnsons Caf and


EAT Bar (Circuit House Road; Tel: +91
Almost every pizza kitchen in Manali 1902 253764) not to be confused
is equipped with a wood-red oven. with Johnsons Lodge next door is
Casa Bella Vista (Log Huts Road; a beautiful spot for lunch. Grab one
MAY 2013
Photograph ANISA NARIMAN
local knowledge
eat away

BBC GoodFood 117


Photograph ANISA NARIMAN
Photograph ANISA NARIMAN
Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA

Photograph ANISA NARIMAN


of the tables set in the garden, while Clockwise
munching on one of the many trout from top: The
options. Here you can get your trout Himalayan
baked, fried or even curried (` 350- Store on Mall
400). Make sure you save room for Road sells
warm waffles with maple syrup and locally produced with Toasted Almonds (` 350) a contained in the oozing chocolate. For
hot fudge sauce (` 200). Although organic honey; beautifully grilled, aky piece of sh a more sophisticated vibe, visit Open
Johnsons is an old favourite, your Johnsons Caf with crispy brown skin. Round off your Hand Caf (openhand.in), which
loyalty might be swayed after you bite offers charming meal with warm Baby Chocolate Cake offers good quality coffee too.
into a delicious morsel at the newly al fresco dining; (` 220) and the Pain Perdu. Lazy Dog (Manu Temple Road;
opened La Plage Manali, which Warm waffles A trip to the hills wouldnt be Tel: +91 1902 254277) is a log cabin
offers among the best meals youll with maple complete without a steaming bowl of in the woods that doubles as an al
eat in Manali. Located in an isolated syrup and fudge momos and soup. Head to the famous fresco restaurant by the river, kitted out
patch on Club House road, dining in sauce are a Chopsticks on Mall Road to get with a replace and a full bar. Despite
the garden with uninterrupted views favourite at your x of Tibetan and Chinese food. being located in Old Manali, it attracts
of the mountains is a treat. The eatery Johnsons Caf They do a nice crispy trout here too a discerning mix of travellers and
is set in a house with high ceilings Chinjabi-style with garlic sauce. Apart families. Try the Warm Collision Salad
and mismatched furniture that only from the usual fare, their muesli for (` 230) with a glass of wine (` 230).
adds to its charm. As far as the food breakfast is a wholesome start to the day. For a more youthful vibe, the lively
is concerned, everything is absolutely For an evening cuppa, try Dylans Hangout is just a walk up the slope.
mouthwatering, from the Chicken Roasted and Toasted (dylanscoffee. The quieter, more tranquil outskirts
Liver Pt with Onion Jam (` 250) com), which not only serves a variety of of Manali have a lot on offer for
and the House Smoked Trout (` 280) coffees from French press to Turkish, adventurous foodies. A 10-minute drive
to the Pumpkin Ravioli (` 280) and but also the most divine chocolate from Manali is the village of Vashisht.
Goats Cheese Puffs (` 300). The pice chip cookies (` 30 each). Insist on a Some of the best Korean food in the
de rsistance, however, is the Trout freshly baked one because the magic is country is available at the humble A1,

118 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat away
y
local knowledgee
tucked away on a path to the left of the
temples, run by the owner Michele and
his Korean wife. While Michele plays
the entertaining host, his wife cooks
up a storm in the kitchen. The pork is
a must-have, which you can cook on
a big hot plate placed on your table.
A generous portion of surprisingly
good quality pork is accompanied
by vegetables and a bunch of small
snacks, in true Korean fashion. The
red rice veggie sushi is quite tasty too.
Step out on to the balcony for a truly
breathtaking view of the valley. For
dinner, head to Rose Garden Caf
(Tel: +91 9818443904) a romantic

Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA


spot replete with wooden benches and
candlelight. Owners Namita and Shiva
Keshavan are the most gracious hosts.
Keshavans Italian mother is around
a lot to supervise the kitchen, and its
her recipes you nd scattered on the
menu. Ingredients are organically Top: The
sourced as much as possible, and they workshop at
keep returning to Italy to stock up on Himalayan
other goodies. Their wood-red oven Dairy. Right:
guarantees delicious pizzas; try their Patrons
Salami Pizza and Pizza Vegetariana enjoying the
(` 200-300). They even rustle up
(` Sunday brunch
homemade pastas (` (` 250-250) and at Martins
grills ((`` 400-500). The Chocolate
Salami dessert made of chocolate

Photograph ANISA NARIMAN


biscuits and nuts is delicious.
As you turn towards Vashisht on the
road leading to Rohtang, about 1.5km
before Bhang is the perfect place to
grab a bite before ascending to higher
planes. Phuntsok Garden Caf is
run by a husband-wife duo that serves old, but the Roast Leg of Lamb a chicken) is perfectly juicy with crispy
delicious food such as chicken and (` 350), Grilled Trout with Watermelon
(` and well-seasoned skin, and must be
mushroom rstis, momos and thukpa. (` 325) or Purda Biryani (` 250-
Salsa (` ordered a day or two in advance. Other
They even make their own noodles. 350) show years beyond that. Anubhav must-haves include the Smoked Trout
Drop by during the day as they tend to and his parents believe in growing their (` 300) and Salami Pizza. Be sure
(`
run out of food by the evening. own vegetables and herbs, and what to book your slice of delicious Apple
If you are contemplating a trek in they cannot, they procure from local Strudel before it is sold out.
the forests, stop at The Seo Bakers farmers to ensure sustainability and
located on Club House road. The freshness (try the homegrown Fresh DO
burgers ((`` 25-35) and banana caramel Garden Salad for ` 175). His mother Head to Jana Falls for some
cake ((`` 35) make for the perfect Madhu makes her own jams and adventure and dont bother packing
packed lunch. pickles. (Tel: + 91 8826174197) a tiffin bacause Mani Rams serves
En route to Naggar sits the year old Head to family-run Martins a unique vegetarian lunch made of
The Fat Plate. This family-run gem for a laidback Sunday brunch. It is local delicacies such as ferns, morels
allows you to dine in a lush garden surrounded by a owering garden, (in February and March) and other
overlooking rivers and peaks. Chef apple orchards and mountains. The mushrooms and vegetables indigenous
Anubhav Gorung may be just 25 years special Smoked Chicken ((`` 500 for half to the area.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 119


eat away
Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA
local knowledge

Photograph NISHANT SINGH


Word on the street is a new organic clean and have attached bathrooms.
store and caf is opening this summer, The rooms fall into three categories
in Prini Nulla, on Naggar Road, standard (` 880), family (` 1,600) and
that goes by the name of Manali superior (` 1,300). The cosy caf at
Organics. The husband-wife team will Drifters serves hearty, no-fuss food
be selling locally produced and sourced exactly what you would crave on a cold
Photograph ZORAWAR SHUKLA

goods such as coffees, jams and breads. Manali night.


So hop over for a cup of coffee and a If you want a change from standard
chat with the warm and gracious hosts, accommodation but on a budget,
Chetana and Siddhartha. (Tel: +91 head to Manali Tree Cottages
9687678025) (manalitreehousecottages.com). Book
A couple of stores sell organic the one-tree cottage (` 3,000) well in
Located halfway in Haripur is Clockwise honey on Mall Road in New Manali, advance. Though the room is basic,
Rainbow Trout Farm, where trout from top: Trout such as the Himalayan Store (Tel: it is spacious with glass windows,
farming is a full-time activity. The farm farming is a +91 1902 252858) and Honey Nut. offering a 360 degree panoramic view
also houses a restaurant where you can popular activity However, on the way to Naggar, there of the surroundings. Dont forget
have your ll of fresh trout cooked in in Manali; Tiny are a few beekeepers along the road, to feed the squirrels that show up at
every imaginable way, from pan-fried stores dot the selling honey straight from its source. your window. (Tel: +91 9816078765)
to tandoori. road leading Somewhere between Kullu and Manali
to the Jana SLEEP lies Neeralaya (neeralaya.com),
SHOP falls; Drifters Located on Circuit House Road, surrounded by forests and orchards on
Located on the way to Jana farms, Inn is popular Baikunth Magnolia Resort two sides and the mighty Beas on the
Himalayan Dairy is a tiny gourmet among budget (baikunth.com) offers a luxurious other. Book yourself into one of these
shop run by Naresh Mahant in the travellers stay. The resort boasts 10 exquisitely traditional stone cottages furnished
little village of Jagat Sukh. Since it furnished, spacious rooms with private with modern elegance, and you can
isnt on the usual tourist radar, it balconies overlooking lush lawns and laze around on the verandahs during
would be wise to call in advance snow-clad mountain peaks. They the day and enjoy bonres at night. The
(Tel: +91 9816053607) for a visit. have various packages depending on resort offers delicious, home-cooked
This store-cum-workshop revolves how many meals you want to include, food prepared using produce from its
around cheese they make their own ranging from ` 5,720 to ` 9,620. gardens, and freshly caught trout from
asiago, a cows milk cheese, which is If your pockets are sewed a little the river. It is also a great place to try
well worth the buy along with their tight, head to the top of Old Manali to local Himachali food all you have to
scamorza. You can also get your hands Drifters Inn (Tel: +91 9805033127) do is ask. During peak season, cottages
on gourmet delights like miso paste the all-time favourite haunt of range from ` 9,450 to ` 16,150.
and Greek olives. backpackers. The rooms are basic but (Tel: +91 9625065125)

120 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


eat away
city break

BUDGET and BLOWOUT guide to Discover Cape Dutch

Cape Town
food, frolic on pristine
beaches and sip on

Photograph courtesy SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM


some wine in Cape
Town. Chock-full of
lively jazz cafs,
At the cusp of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, Cape Town chic restaurants and
is a treasure trove of eclectic cuisines pulsating clubs, this
multicultural Mother
Words NEETI MEHRA
City has heaps to offer

BUDGET BLOWOUT
7Snug in bohemian Long Street, the Rcaff serves 7Cape Towns rst Grand Chef Peter
Italian coffee and light bites. Try the Aromatic Thai Tempelhoffs menus celebrate local
LUNCH

OUSE
Photograph courtesy THE TEST KITCHE

Chicken, a coconut and coriander curry served on produce at The Greenhouse. Opt

HE GREENH
jasmine rice (R75) and Omelette Sarmie Sandwich for a four-course menu that includes

EE
E
(R36). 7Order the slow-cooked breast and pan-seared an assortment of tomatoes, beetroot

c tesy THE
loin of lamb, with white bean hummus and ewes milk gnocchi with highveld cepes, a Cape
labnehh (R160) at The Test Kitchen. End the meal with

h cour
Malay tomato and herb dal and a

cou
co
a selection of South African cheese, served with apple

aph
rraph
Photograph
raspberry, basil and lemon mousse.

grap
ra
a
chutney (R80). (thetestkitchen.co.za) (R465) (collectionmcgrath.com)

7Try The Baron of Bree, a Portuguese roll stuffed 7Try the superlative tasting menu at
with brie, caramelised onions and cherry tomatoes La Colombe. The meal commences with
DINNER

(R55) at Alexander Bar & Caf or choose between champagne poached oyster followed by

LOMBE
MBE
an assorted canap platter (R55) and a cheese and

LOMB
miso-cured scallops with soy caviar; foie
charcuterie platter (R105). (alexanderbar.co.za) 7

C L
Photograph JESSE KRAMER

gras served with smoked quail breast

A CO
LA
Savour Cape Malay while enjoying live performances and a scented lavender brioche; karoo

yL
tesssy
ourte
at Marcos African Place. Try Umngqusho, a Xhosa lamb loin and poached stone fruit on

ccour
ph coo
family staple, made from corn kernels and beans (R30). honey, honey cake and more (R625,

Photograph
ph
(marcosafricanplace.co.za) excluding wine). (constantia-uitsig.com)

7The Firemans Arms was established in 1864 as 7Quaff down Caf Caprices
a watering hole for seafarers and is perfect to down signature cocktail, Namaste, prepared
Photograph courtesy CAF CAPRICE

beers while catching a rugby match. Make sure you using vanilla-infused black tequila
DRINK

Photograph courtesy TJING TJING

order one of the 14 beers on tap. (remansarms. with thyme honey and fresh grapefruit
co.za) 7Located along the party stretch, Longmarket juice served on the rocks (R58) or the
Street, Tjing Tjing Rooftop Barr is popular with locals in-house spin on Long Island Iced
and tourists alike. Chill out with the quirky Jelly Baby Tea the potent Victoria Road Iced Tea
(R42) or the zingy Harajuku Girl cocktails (R48). It (R65) with a plate of nachos (R99).
boasts an extensive wine selection too. (tjingtjing.co.za) (cafecaprice.co.za)
Photograph courtesy SOUTHERN SUN WATERFRONT

7Located at walking distance from V&A Waterfront, 7The stunning boutique hotel, Cape
the spacious Southern Sun Waterfront Cape Town Grace, is perched on its own private
GRAC HOTEL
HOTEL

offers lovely views of the Table Mountain. It has an quay in the heart of the V&A Waterfront.
tessy CAPE GRACE H

authentic South African restaurant,Yizani, where you Feast at its acclaimed Signal Restaurant
can savour local delicacies. Doubles from R1,850. serving inventive Cape cuisine using
(tsogosunhotels.com) 7Located in the heart of the
u tesy

local produce and relax in the Cape


city centre, The Fritz Hotel is a three-star hotel with
raph cour
ur

Grace Spa that offers a sweeping view


graph

only 13 rooms that exude an intimate, Victorian charm.


grap
ra
t gra

of the Marina. Doubles from R5,788.


Doubles from R700. (fritzhotel.co.za)
to
Photo

(capegrace.com)

7Grab the Gatsby, a street-side speciality a foot-long 7Honest Chocolate is handmade


Photograph courtesy HONEST CHOCOLATEHOTEL
Photograph courtesy NEETI MEHRA
MUST DO

sandwich with llings such as steak, polony sausages, from unroasted organic Ecuadorian
calamari and even desi pickle at takeaways across the cacao. It is free of dairy and processed
city. Try the Gatsby at Miriams Kitchen. Prices start sugar. Try the 72 per cent organic cacao
from R58.(101, St. Georges Mall) 7Indulge in slab sprinkled with Ghanaian pepper,
delectable gourmet food at the V&A Market on the with a hint of chilli (R42)or the bite-
Wharf. Sample Cape Malay cuisine, nibble on cheese sized macadamia nut butter cups with
and sip coffee, at prices suiting every pocket. Open organic cold-pressed coconut oil and
from Wednesday to Sunday. (marketonthewharf.co.za) agave (R15). (honestchocolate.co.za)

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 121


Postcard from
Photograph courtesy
WALTER BIBIKOW/
JAI/CORBIS
Chennai
Once regarded as conservative, Chennai 2013 is chock-full of bold and
eclectic flavours from around the world. Karen Anand marvels at the
citys stunning new culinary avatar
Words KAREN ANAND

I
used to visit Chennai quite applicable across Tamil Nadu has not free-owing cocktails. Everyone eats
often about 10 years ago and changed in the last decade that of early and parties hard till late. Willows
although there was excitement not serving alcohol in the city. This can Bar upstairs is packed post-dinner
about new tastes and avours only be done in a hotel; no standalone with the citys slick set. The breakfast
then, Chennaiites still remained a restaurant is allowed to serve alcohol. at Seasonal Tastes the next morning
conservative lot with deep roots in I check in for the rst night at the is impressive, with their trademark
tradition. In those days The Park had new Westin Chennai Velachery (Tel: + international spread, but what is
just opened in Nungambakkam in 91 44 22553366) in an area known as Food writer, more comforting is their exceedingly
the heart of the city with a snazzy, Guindy, about half an hour away from entrepreneur competent south Indian fare and
theatre-style all-day dining restaurant the city centre but only 20 minutes and gourmet, chutneys.
along with the Leather Bar. It gave from the airport. Most of the new Karen Anand I spend the next two nights at
new meaning to hospitality in the luxury hotels in Chennai seem to be has journeyed the ITC Grand Chola (Tel: +91 44
city. On my return this month, I nd in this area. The hotel overlooks the across 22200000). Strange as it sounds, I
several ve-star hotels have opened, Guindy National Park. It is still very the world need a map to nd my way around
bringing a new face to luxury and conveniently located off Anna Salai, writing about this palace-like structure. There is
dining. I also notice the mushrooming the arterial road that leads you into gastronomy. no exaggeration in the hotels name
of homegrown talent in the form town. Restaurant launch parties are it is sprawling and exceeds my
of trendy bistros, cafs and modest big in Chennai and this one is no less, expectations. There is nothing like
eateries. But what is really refreshing with dancers, a band, lavish buffets and this in the country so far a private
in the midst of this new potboiler of VIP entrance resembling the Mysore
culinary excitement is that the old palace; miles and miles of Italian
south Indian dining halls and messes marble; and stone pillars carved in the
remain completely untouched, holding Mahabalipuram temple style. Going by
on rmly to their integrity and loyal its size and banqueting capacity (with
clientele. One strange rule a gigantic, pillarless ballroom no less),
it is destined for huge conventions in
the region and presumably top-notch
weddings as well. The rooms are
stunning and the Kaya Kalp spa makes
me feel I am in a Roman catacomb.
As food goes, they have also
brought a completely new look, feel
and menu to Pan Asian. Spanning
several Asian cuisines with specialised
chefs for each one, led by Chef
Vikramjit Roy, the 22-course tasting
menu is quite unbelievable. The hirame
eat
eat away
ay
posttcar
rd
d

lo
ook
o s lil ke Graand d Cho hola la is pu pullllliningg
out
ou ut alll th thee sttop ops
ps to est s abablilil sh its tsel
elff as
el
t e de
th deststtin
inat a io
at ionn fo
forr not not on
no nlyy gre r at
Indi
In dian
di an foo ood, d, butt als lso o gr greaeatt gl
ea glob
ob bal
al
dini
di ning
ni n as we
ng welll.
Neextt doo or tto o the Gra randn Cho
nd h la
is the
h und nder e stat
er sttat
ated
ed and d veerry el e eg gan
antt
Park
Pa r Hya
rk yatt ttt Chenn
henn
he nnai ai (Te Tel: l +91
l: 91 44
7 77
71 712
1 34 34). ). I vissiti theeirr ag gsh
ship ip
p
u uz
us uzukukir
uk irri (o
(orr th
thin
in
nly sliice
ced d sa
sash
sh
shim
himmi)i),, th
he rest
re stau
st a ra
au rant n , th
nt he FlFlyi
Flyiying ng Ele lephph han nt,t,
h us
ho u e smsmok oked
ok edd sal
almo
mon,
mo n,, bakked d Alaask skanan wh hic
ichh re
remi mind
mi ndds me mor oree off New w
kiing cra rabb le
legg aan
nd ththee stteeaame
med d duduck
ck m ntio
me nttio
ion
n that
th
hat aftf err the
he mes esme
meri
me risi
rising
si ng
g York
Yo rk thahan n su ubub rb rban
a Che
an h nn nnai aaii. It
I is a
caarp paca ci
cio wi
cio with ora
with r ng
ngee ic
icee an
andd poponz
nzu
nz u exxpeeri
rien
ence
en cee at Pa
Pan n As
Asiaian
ia n thhe dadayy be
b fo
fore
ree, buuzzz ining,
g,, mul ultitist
ti stor
st orrie
o i d pl p acacee wi with thh a lot ot
jeelll y ar
aree ou
outts
tstaand
dining.
g The
g. h rer s muc u h on my pal alat
atee is
at i quuiitee sat
atia
iate
ia tteed. Befforre I of raz
of a zm matataz a z an
az and d exexot ottiicc, sp spea eake
eake keasasy-
as y-
y-
offffererr for thee gou ourm
rmmetet vegegetetar
etaria
ar iaan to
too.o.. leeav
ave,
e, I qui
uickckly
ckly droropp in at Ot O tiimo
mo,, with
wiith s yl
st y e co cock
ckta
ck taililils.
ta s. I leaarn tha hatt th hiss sty ylel
T an
Th nkf
k ul
ully
lyy, th
t e reest
stau
aura
au r nts
ra ntts ar
a e spspre
read
re add thhe go
g rg
rgeo
eous
eo us Romoman ann chef
hef Ma
he Mass ssim
ss im
mo off coco ktk ai
aill wawass de deve
eve
velo
lo
ope p d du duri ring
ri n thee
ng
acro
ac ross
ro ss two oo ors witi hi
hin
n on ne arreaea of at the helelm.
m The foo
m. oodd lo
look okss te
ok terr
rri
rr icc
i P oh
Pr hib
ibit
itio
itio
on erra in i New ewY Yor ork. k.T
k. The h
fo
ocu
cus wa
cus wass on exo xoti tic look
ti
tic look
lo okin ing
in g drdrin in
nkss
that
th
hat masske k d th t e al alco
co
ohoh l, whi hich
ich led
The Flying Elephant reminds me more of New Cloc
Cl ockw
oc kwisise
e fr
from
o
om to theh birrth of co cockckta
ck tailililss lilike
ta ke the Ol Old d
York than suburban Chennai. It is a buzzing, fa
acing
cing
ci g pagage:e
e: Fash
Fa sshhione
io
oned
need
d (su sugagar,
ga r, rye and n lem mon o pee e l
multistoried place with a lot of razzmatazz and The
Th e over
ov er icee), Fr
er Fren ench
en chh 75 5 (dr dryy gi gin, n, lem
n, mon o
Kaapa ale
lees
eshw
es hwwar
ararar juic
ju icee an
ic nd su suga garr sy
ga syrurup
ru p to topp pp ped d wit ithh
exotic, speakeasy-style cocktails. This cocktail
temp
te
emple
mple in Ch Chen
C enna
en nnai;
n ii;;
na ch
hamampa pagn
pa gne)
gn e) and d SiSide
de Car ar (ccog gnanac, c,,
style was developed during the Prohibition era Rooya
yall Ve
V ga a offffer
es
er Coin
C
Co intr
intr
trea
eau
ea u an a d le lemo
mon
mo n ju j ic ice)e , wh
e) hicch
in New York. The focus was on exotic looking a no
nove
v l ta
ve take
ke on beca
be caame the he dee ning
ning
ni ng coc
ng coc ockt
cktai
kttaai
aill off the he
drinks that masked the alcohol Indi
In dian
d an
an vegetari
eget
eg etar
et arria
a ian
n era.
er a The
a. h at
atrirics
ri css asi sidde,, th
de t e ffo ood is pr pret etty
et ty
fo
oodd; ThThee Fl
Flyi
ying
ying g eaat.
gr
gre t I hav avee an n ama m zi zing ngly
ng ly simpl
immpl plee di d sh
Ellep
e hahantnt is th
the e off Per
Perruvia
uvian
ian gr g eeen as aspap ra
pa ragu g sw
gu with th
thee ho
th hotetel.
te l I pop
l. p int
ntoo Ca
Caff Mer erca cara
ca ra to with
wi th woo
ood-
od-r
od rededd piz izza
zas
zaas an
nd a st stun
unnnining
ng g talk
ta ko off th
the
he to
ttown
wn;;
w
wn truffl
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JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 123


GEORG ROTH/CORBIS
Photograph courtesy HANS

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124 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


masterclass In this section
7Jo
7John Paul
Jo
Carm
arm
rmonas
COOK LIKE A PRO prawn
wn
nccannelloni
mastercla
cla
class
Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills
p 126
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

7Home-made quark
ark
cheese
p 130

7Rohan Jelkie on
Chardonnay wines
p 131

DIGITAL
KITCHEN SCALE
If baaking is considered a science,
the wweighing scale deserves to be
righ
ht up there with the oven and the
stannd mixer. Those arrogant enough
to foollow recipes with inaccurate
meaasurements and instinct-driven
adddition often yield disastrous
resuults. At Good Food d, we strongly
belieeve precise measurements are
impperative to baking so we were
deligghted to nd this sleek digital
scale, a practical and essential
adddition to the larder. This scale
commes with a detachable measuring
bowwl, an easy-to-read LCD display
andd simple controls. We weighed
bothh liquids and dry foods in grams
andd millilitres up to a maximum
capaacity of 5kg and 600ml. Easy to
cleaan, energy efficient and with a
highh precision strain gauge sensor
thatt indicates weight overload, the
scale is a sleek and valuable addition
to anny kitchen.
Photogrph 123 RF /GTRANQUILLITY

Try y the Nova Digital Kitchen


Weiighing Scale available at
naa aptol.com and cookware
storres such as Premsons,

PROVED Mu
New
umbai and Shaam di Hatti,
w Delhi, ` 1,999 onwards.
AP
JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 125
JOHN PAUL CARMONAS
Masterclass
Chef John Paul Carmona, Executive Chef of 3mile Corp, San Francisco and visiting chef
at The Table, Mumbai, makes step-by-step prawn cannelloni
Recipe JOHN PAUL CARMONA Photographs VIKAS MUNIPALLE

Prawn cannelloni with


roasted vegetables and
crispy chickpeas
Serves 4 Q 1 hour + roasting
Q A LITTLE EFFORT

tiger prawns 8, heads removed with the


shell on
wooden skewers 8
basil leaves 20

THE PRAWN CANNELLONI


prawns 500g, de-shelled, deveined and
cut into 1/4-inch chunks
egg yolk 1
saffron a pinch
salt 1 tsp
cream 300g
spinach leaves 8 large, stems removed
and blanched

THE CHICKPEA FRITTERS


chickpeas 300g, dry
olive oil 1/2 cup
water 1/2 cup
chilli sauce 2 tbsp
eggs 2
garlic cloves 2, grated
lime 1, zest only
salt 1 tsp
chickpea flour (besan) to coat
vegetable oil 1l, for deep frying

THE ROASTED VEGETABLES AND JUS


zucchini 250g, cut into 1-inch pieces
white onion 500g, peeled and cut into
1-inch pieces
eggplant 125g, cut into 1-inch pieces
olive oil 1 tbsp
tomatoes 500g

C L U SIVE P red peppers 250g, roasted and peeled

EX BY-STE garlic cloves 60g, peeled

STEP-ECIPE
saffron 1/8 tsp
salt to taste
R thyme leaves 1 tbsp, chopped

126 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


To make the prawn cannelloni, combine On a clear surface, lay out a long strip of Squeeze out an even tube of the prawn
1 the prawn, egg yolk, saffron, and salt in
2 plastic wrap and smooth it out with a dry
3 mousse.
a blender. While the machine is running, towel to remove any air bubbles. Place
slowly stream in the cream until you the spinach leaves in the centre of the
are left with a smooth paste. Place the sheet.
mousse into a piping bag for later use.

Roll the plastic over the spinach. Roll it into a tight tube, secured by the Tie off the ends. Steam the cannelloni for
4 5 cling lm. Carefully shape it into a long
6 10 minutes.
tube-shaped cannelloni.

Cut 4 2-inch pieces and set aside. Put the chickpeas into a blender with the Shape the mixture into balls, coat in the
7 8 water and olive oil until the mix is coarse
9 our and deep fry at 180C until crisp.
and chunky. Empty the mixture into a
mixing bowl. Add chilli sauce, eggs, garlic,
lime zest, and salt.

128 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


masterclass
chef skills

To make the vegetables, pre-heat the oven Combine the roasted vegetables and Line a colander set over a bowl with
10 to 190C. Toss the onions, zucchini, and 11 tomatoes with the peppers and garlic,
12 muslin cloth, empty the vegetables into
eggplant with 1 tbsp oil, put on a roasting put into an ovenproof baking dish and the colander, and place a plate on top.
tray and cook until brown. Repeat the wrap it tightly with silver foil. Return the Allow the vegetables to strain in the
process for the tomatoes, then remove vegetables to the oven for 3 hours. refrigerator overnight.
their skins. Lower the oven to 150C.

To make the roasted vegetable jus, Coarsely chop the strained, roasted Insert the wooden skewer lengthwise
13 remove the juices from the refrigerator,
14 vegetables and season with salt. Add
15 through the prawns tail to prevent it
add the saffron and reduce by 1/3 in a thyme and heat. from curling when it cooks.
saucepot. Season with salt to taste.

Blanch the prawn in boiling, salted water To plate, place a spoonful of the chopped Place the cannelloni alongside the
16 for 45 seconds and then remove the
17 vegetables on the bottom of a large
18 fritters. Add the prawns on top and
shells and the skewers. serving dish. Arrange 5 chickpea fritters garnish with basil leaves. Pour the hot
on top of the vegetables. roasted vegetable jus before serving.

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 129


masterclass
diy

QUARK CHEESE
Try this cant fail recipe for homemade quark cheese. Delicious yet really easy
Recipe and photograph DEEBA RAJPAL

Quark cheese k 1l
full-cream milk Place the sieve over a basin. Pour the
Makes 500g Q 10 minutes + resting cultured buttermilkk 250ml curds and whey into the strainer. Bring
QEASY the tea towel together so that it covers
QTo make the quark cheese, bring the the quark. Tie the edges. Place the
Traditional, creamy and vegetarian milk to a boil, and allow it to come to entire draining apparatus in the fridge.
quark is fresh cheese made from cows room temperature. Stir the buttermilk QAllow this to drain in the fridge
milk, which is moist and white. It has a into the milk. Cover the container and overnight, or for 24 hours. Drained
light taste and a smooth texture. Quark keep in a warm place. Allow the culture quark should have a consistency
simply means curd in German and to proceed for 24 hours. similar to soured cream, but with a
the cheese is said to date from the Iron QDampen a clean tea towel or slightly more sour taste.
Age. Quark can be made from whole, cheesecloth and use it to line a sieve.
skimmed or semi-skimmed milk or even
buttermilk. Soft and moist, like a cross
Make
Make aa quark
quark
between yoghurt and fromage frais, it
and
and peach
peach mousse
mousse
should taste lemon-fresh. using
using this
this cheese.
cheese.
For
For the
the recipe,
recipe, turn
turn
to
topp106.
90.
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10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE

re
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an ece the . No gs
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p
Chardonnays

th sti ck pul ut.


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Wine expert Rohan Jelkies pick of crisp and cool Chardonnays

m k
T
Rohan Jelkie is he Chardonnay is Patz and Hall Chardonnay 2009 Maison Louis Latour Pouilly-
Senior Manager, considered the noble (` 5,652, available at Reliance Mart and
(` Fuisse 2010 (` (` 4,210, available at
Beverage Education grape of Burgundy and Natures Basket, Mumbai) T3 arrival terminal at Delhi airport)
and Training at Champagne in France Full-bodied with a complex, layered This wine is replete with hints of
Tulleeho!, Indias where it is used to produce some of nish, this Chardonnay has an delicious white fruits and light buttery
premium beverage
the most renowned still and sparkling interesting mix of aromas such as ripe notes. A touch of peppermint on the
consultancy
wines respectively. This classic white pear, apple, spice and nutmeg. Try it palate adds to the wonderful nish.
organisation. An
wine grape whose name means a with a meen molee on a bed of rice. Pair it with pumpkin risotto.
avid traveller and a
trained wines and place of thistles in Latin traces its
spirits educator, he heritage to the Middle Ages.
has also conducted As a varietal, the Chardonnay
wine programmes in is versatile it can be made into
Sri Lanka and the different styles of wines including Tapestry Chardonnay 2010 (` ( 3,026, Castello Banfi Fontanelle
Middle East. still or sparkling, dry or fruity, light available at Reliance Mart and Natures Chardonnay 2010 (` ( 3,760, available
or full-bodied. The grape itself Basket outlets across India) at House of Spirits, Delhi)
hardly displays any character of its With aromas of apricot and pear and A blend of toasty, spicy oak aromas
own. The qualities you nd in your hints of grapefruit and lime towards the with avours like pear and citrus, this
favourite glass of Chardonnay are a nish, this Australian wine pairs well Chardonnay from Tuscany has a long
function of the terroirr (soil and climate with kadhai paneer and subz biryani. nish. Pair with grilled pork chops.
conditions) it comes from or the wine
making practices used to produce
it. Chardonnays from warm climate
areas tend to have higher levels of
alcohol, feel fuller on the palate and Champagne Phillipe Gonet, Brut, Benziger Carneros Chardonnay 2009
have hints of fruits like mangoes Blanc de Blanc (`(` 6,500, available at (` 2,891, available at Reliance Mart and
(`
or ripe bananas. Another aroma or Ganpati Wines, Gurgaon) Natures Basket, Mumbai)
avour found in Chardonnay wines, This wine has hints of apple blossom, With aromas of fragrant honeysuckle
particular from the New World wine green apple, stone and a touch of and pineapple, this medium-bodied
countries, is that of butter or hazelnut toasted raisin bread. It has a creamy, Chardonnay pairs well with spaghetti
which lends the wines a creamy rened texture and a modest nish. or fettucine with leek sauce and clams.
mouthful at the nish.
In the past half century this
grape has seen a surge in popularity,
especially in the New World, with
California emerging as a major Fratelli Chardonnay 2012 (` (` 695 Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards
producer of Chardonnays. By the onwards, available at leading wine Chardonnay 2010 (` (` 4,596, available
early 90s, every second glass of stores in Mumbai and Delhi) at Reliance Mart, Mumbai)
wine being ordered in the US was With aromas of tart apple, sugar This wine has aromas of lime, gs,
probably Chardonnay. Ironically, at melon and lemon chiffon, this wine has hazelnuts and apricots on the nose
the same time, wine acionados who buttery notes on the nish. Try it with with a zesty structure. Pair with baked
had begun tiring of drinking mediocre malai tikka or bharwan tandoori aloo. vegetables in a peppered creamy sauce
sauce.
Chardonnays that had ooded the
market began looking for ABC
Anything but Chardonnay!

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 131


Amadora
The desire to eat world-class ice cream in India drove Deepak Suresh to
start Amadora, a brand of all-natural gourmet ice cream in Chennai last
year. He shares with us the journey his venture has taken since
As told to VIDYA BALACHANDER Photographs VINAY ARAVIND

I
come from a software But the avours we have developed are
background and until recently, the result of long hours in the kitchen. HOW ETHICAL IS
I was helping companies cut Amadora is unique because we make AMADORA?
down their carbon emissions our ice cream mix from scratch. We Organic: While not certied
and trade in carbon credits. In 2010, I dont buy it from a dairy farm, which organic, Amadora ice creams and
did an MBA in Madrid, during which gives us complete control over quality. sorbets are completely natural
time I fell in love with food and wine. I We dont use eggs in our ice cream, and dont involve the use of any
have always loved great food but while and it is free of essence, avouring or additives or colouring. Since they
living in Madrid, I began to think about colouring. All our fruits are bought are made fresh in small quantities
dabbling in it professionally. from the local market once a week. every week, they dont contain
When I would travel to India every We buy our milk from various preservatives either.
other year, I was always disappointed local distributors in Tamil Nadu Local: By sourcing all the
by the quality of the ice cream in our and Karnataka who conform to the ingredients from local suppliers
country. Ice cream is a very unique highest quality standards. The single or those in neighbouring states,
product because it has a lot of emotion origin lter coffee for our lter coffee Amadora aims to keep the
attached to it, across countries, cultures ice cream is from Badra Estate in business as locally centred as
and age groups. We all remember Chikmagalur. Our honey comes from possible. The milk and cream are
where our mum or dad took us for ice Karnataka and the peanut butter from procured from local milkmen.
cream as kids. In 2011, I thought it Kerala. Supporting local businesses not
was about time there was an Indian ice only elevates the quality of local food Starting out with six or seven
cream that was just as good as anything but also provides them an incentive to avours in the rst few months, we
abroad. So I moved back and decided innovate. now have 12 to 15 a week. We make
about 120 litres of ice cream every six
Ice cream is unique because it has a lot of emotion days. Our avours change every week.
attached to it across countries, cultures and age We keep four to ve avours constant
as have we realised that people keep
groups. We all remember where our mum or dad took coming back for their old favourites.
us for ice cream as kids So our salted butter caramel, chocolate
brownie, lter coffee and vanilla
to start an artisanal gourmet ice cream avours are perennials. In addition to
brand made with local products in FLAVOURS these, we have three sorbets and a few
new avours every week.
small batches. The focus would be on
5 Bean Vanilla 7 Mamis Filter Coffee
quality and giving the customer an We didnt really go out and ask
unforgettable experience. After a few 7Salted Butter Caramel 7Jasmine people what they liked. We make
months of learning and experimenting, Tea & Chocolate Trufe 7Peanut ice creams that we like and believe
Amadora Gourmet Ice Cream & Butter Jelly 7Dark Chocolate that customers pay us to make those
Sorbet opened up in March 2012. decisions for them. When we make
To learn more about the art of
7 Sugarcane Sorbet 7 Grape Sorbet ice cream, we dont make it to work in
making ice cream, I did a couple of Amadora Gourmet Ice Cream & Sorbet, 23, Third India. Our ice cream is of the quality
courses in the United States, which Street, Wallace Garden, Nungambakkam, Chennai. that if you took our store anywhere else
were focused on the science of mixing Tel: +91 44 42323482. in the world, it would work. Dont take
milk and cream, scooping and so on. our word for it, come and try some!

132 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


top producer
ice cream

Deepak Suresh with one


of Amadoras ever-changing
ice cream flavours
Recipe index 7 VEGETARIAN 7READY UNDER 30 MINUTES 7LOW FAT

STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUPS SIDES AND SAUCES


7777126 Chickpea fritters 777756 Baba ghanoush
7777 56 Glass noodles, 777714 Beetroot dip
asparagus and 777792 Caramel sauce
papaya salad 777766 Green curry paste
7777 45 Greek salad wraps 777758 Jordanian-style
7777 14 Methi crackers labneh
7777 48 Mexican bean salad 7777110 Laksa paste
7777 38 Smoky black bean 777782 Lemon syrup
chilli soup with lime 777762 Lime and coriander
yoghurt dressing
7777 22 Soy tuna with 777777 Massaman curry
wasabi mash paste
7777 58 Warm caramelised 777792 Praline
potato and onion 777778 Roasted pepper
salad salsa
777786 Shortcrust pastry
MAINS 777714 Spinach dip
Egg 777774 Sweet chilli sauce
7777 33 Brown rice stir-fry 777776 Thai roast chilli
with coriander paste
omelette
Meat DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS AND
7777 42 Braised Italian BAKING
sausages with soft 77777 Apple and
polenta cinnamon cake
7777 78 Burgers 777792 Baileys ice cream
7777 68 Lamb with tomato, sundae
cumin and mustard 777736 Gulabi kheer
seeds 777782 Lighter chocolate
7777 78 Shepherds pie tart
Poultry 777782 Lighter lemon
7777107 Grilled chicken drizzle cake
donburi with teriyaki
sauce
86 7777114 Passionfruit and
citronella jelly
7777 63 Lighter Massaman 777760 Pear skillet cake
curry 126 Prawn cannelloni 777786 Plum fro yo
777745 Favourite pasta
7777 40 One-pot chicken with roasted salad
with orzo and dill vegetables and JAIN
777750 Flatbread pizzas
7777 68 One-pot Moroccan crispy chickpeas 777792 Chocolate praline
777729 Fettucine with laal
chicken 7777 22 Salmon with wasabi tart
maat, blue cheese
7777 63 Thai red chicken mayo 777788 Chocolate salami
and walnuts
curry 7777 75 Sea bass ceviche rolls
777752 Italian stuffed
7777 66 Thai green chicken with passionfruit, 777790 Dark chocolate
courgettes
curry lime, sweet green tarts
777780 Macaroni cheese
mango and 777714 Flaxseed crackers
Fish and seafood 777756 Papaya curry
coriander dressing 777788 Lemongrass-
7777 22 Avocado prawns in 777760 Peruvian-style
7777 22 Soy tuna with infused lime posset
wasabi dressing cheese dip with sliced
wasabi mash 777786 Mascarpone fruit
7777 47 Crab-stuffed potatoes
avocadoes 7777112 Steamed grouper tartlets
777722 Pumpkin and porcini
with special coral 777714 Oatmeal crackers
7777 40 Coconut and open ravioli
sauce 777790 Quark and peach
coriander sh 777745 Spicy couscous salad
777766 Vietnamese sh mousse
7777 46 Garlicky prawns with 777742 Tricolour salad pizza
curry 7777130 Quark cheese
sherry 777744 Veggie shepherds
777750 Vietnamese prawn 777714 Quinoa crackers
7777 48 Grilled salmon tacos salad pie with sweet potato 777714 Ragi crackers
with chipotle lime 777722 Wasabi salmon with mash
yoghurt cucumber salad 777764 Veggie Thai red DRINKS
Photograph DEEBA RAJPAL

7777 64 Keralan prawns 777776 Yam pla meuk curry 777724 Lemon casa rita
7777110 Laksa an 777774 Yam som o gai 777738 Warm pumpkin and 777735 Grown-up limeade
7777112 Lobster fried rice Vegetarian quinoa salad with 777735 Melon spritzers
7777 52 Oaty sh and prawn 777745 Bulgur and broad sesame soy 777735 Peach punch
gratins bean salad with dressing
777776 Pla goong zesty dressing 777776 Yam lamut

134 BBC GoodFood JUNE 2013


Shop talk Where to find everything from wasabi to walnuts

AHMEDABAD Flanders Dairy The Cheese Ball Gourmet Gallery Reliance Fresh
Organic Haus 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24653789
27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road,
Regent Park
Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi
Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road,
Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road,
Law Garden Tel: +91 33 23818510 Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road,
Fortune Gourmet
Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 79 26445593 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Tel: +91 22 26743750
Vasant Kunj MUMBAI
BENGALURU Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Country of Origin Framroze Court, Phalke Road,
Dadar (E)
Foodhall Gogias Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Tel: +91 22 24155017
MG Mall, Trinity 280, Main road, INA Market Road, Malabar Hill
Sant
Ulsoor Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 Tel: +91 22 23642221 Shop Number 1, Sahina
Foodworld Gourmet Dolce Vita Apartments, Pali Market,
INA Market
301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Bandra (W)
village, Bannerghatta Main Road Dilli Haat Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Tel: +91 22 40060020
Tel: +91 80 32466586 Lower Parel Spencers HyperMarket
Le Marche
Gourmet Food World Tel: +91 22 24964307 1406A/28A, Malad (W)
58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,
No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, Tel: +91 22 42686130
Near Priya Cinema Food Bazaar
MG Road Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Innity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Tel: +91 80 41474789 Spencers Hyper Market,
Masters Bakers Road, Andheri (W)
Ground Floor, Located in
Natures Basket G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Tel: +91 22 67583090 Inorbit Mall, Malad (W)
#755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next Centre, Ashok Vihar Foodhall Tel: +91 9823485988
to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Palladium, High Street Phoenix,
Tel: +91 80 41317401 Modern Bazaar Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel PUNE
Sorbet The gourmet food store 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Tel: +91 22 30264581 Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd
No 287, Varthur Road, Vasant Vihar B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment
Gourmet West Tel: +91 20 26052883
Siddapura, Whiteeld Tel: +91 11 41669777 Westside, Army and Navy Building,
Tel: +91 80 28543245 Natures Basket
Natures Basket 148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda
Ground oor, D /15, Tel: +91 22 66360499 Mansur Ali Tower,
3, Galaxy Society,
CHENNAI Between BP Petrol Pump Max Mueller Lane,
Hypercity
Amma Nana and Defence Colony. Flyover Near AXIS Bank,
Tel: +91 11 46698777 Ground Floor, Malad (W)
Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Dhole Patil Road
Tel: +91 22 40501300
Hotel, Nandanam  46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Tel: +91 20 26160540
Tel: +91 44 24350596 Ground oor & basement
Tel: +91 11 40571919
Lallu & brothers
Shop no 1&2, Pali Market,
Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal
Aundh
Mercado Tel: +91 20 25889530
Palkit Impex Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill,
No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra
C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Bandra (W) Providore
Colony, Besant Nagar
Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437 Tel: +91 22 26409295 GF 104, Anand Park, Baner
Tel: +91 44 28173965
Natures Basket Road, Aundh
Nuts n Spices Passion Cheese
Tel: +91 20 65601551
New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Select Citywalk Mall,
District Centre, Saket
227, Samarth Vaibhav Building,
Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Nungambakkam Shop No 1, Princeton Flair,
Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 Tel: +91 11 40599916 Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W)
Lane No 8, Koregaon Park
Pigpo Tel: +91 22 26300766
Tel: +91 20 66077193
HYDERABAD 9 Jor Bagh Market Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani
Gardens, Powai Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Natures Basket Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930 G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie
Urmila Towers, Road No. 10, Tel: +91 22 25707706
Steak House Tel: +91 20 26806933
Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills 13/8 Jor Bagh Market 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara
Road, Juhu
Tel: +91 40 23355399 Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129 Gourmet Websites
Tel: +91 22 26117893 Delicious Now
The French Farmer
NEW DELHI Tel: Call Roger Langbour Plot no. 29, 56 Hill Road, Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26425050
deliciousnow.com
A- Mart +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701 Farm2kitchen
A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8
Yamato Ya The Japanese Store
Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple ,
Warden Road, Mahalaxmi
farm2kitchen.com
Tel: +91 11 26789999 Foodesto
B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, Tel: +91 22 23526775
Ahuja Vegetable Store Near Deer Park foodesto.com
Shop no.- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 41650164 Patel stores Foodzig
Tel: +91 11 24644116 Near Mehboob Studio, foodzig.com
GURGAON Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Gourmet Company
Allied Fruits and Florists
Kims Mart Tel: +91 22 26558909
58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road gourmetco.in
Tel: +91 11 24642509 DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Ratna stores Houseproud
Tel: +91 124 2562189 Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road, houseproud.in
Ashok General Store
Natures Basket Opposite Union Park, Chembur Local Banya
113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat,
S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Tel: +91 22 25203389 localbanya.com
INA Market
Ambience Island, NH-8 Regal Plus Olive Tree Trading
Tel: +91 11 24617561
Tel: +91 124 4665753 1, Lourdes Haven,
Dubden Green olivetreetrading.com
10/A, Pali Naka, Pesca Fresh
4-A, Near Electric Sub Station, KOLKATA Bandra (W) pescafresh.com
Shahpur Jat Afraa Deli
Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/ Zansaar
Tel: +91 11 32905310, City Centre, Salt Lake
26465070 zansaar.com
+91 9810131343 Tel: +91 33 23581111

JUNE 2013 BBC GoodFood 135


good food loves
Indian drupes

berry, berry wicked


Pucker-w
worthy phalsas and jamuns are the true stars of an Indian summer. They taste every bit as
wicked as they look
Wo
ord
rdss VI
VIDY
D A BA
DY BALA
BALA
LACH
C AN
CH NDE
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RPPh
hottog
ogra
raph
raph
hs AN
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O P NE
N GI
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RITA
TAM
TAM BA
B NERJ
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ERJ
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E

Fram
Fra RF/
amess 123RF
R HAR BAL
IHAR
HA
F/ IH
H AI N, 123RF
BALAIKI
AIKI 23R DRE REMIN
ERE
EY ER
23 / ANDREY
ANDREY
Summ
Su mmer
mm er heerral
alds
ds the
ds he arr rrivval of a nu numb mberr of ex
mb xci
c titing
ng loccal fru rui
uitits
its If Apr prilill bel
elon
ongs
on gs to ma mang ng goe
oess anand Ma Mayy to o watterrm meelo onnss, Ju une n bring gs
inncl
c ud
udin in
ng tth
he ta r ph
tart
rt halalsa
sa...ThT iss tin
Th nyy,, deeep-p-w
wiinee hue
w ued be berrrrrry wiwith ha it wit ithh th
t e brreaeaththle
th less
sss antic
nticcip
nt ipattio
i n for
fo
or ob blo
long
ng and nd eesshy h ja amu
muns n th hat
at
slig
sl ig
gh htttly
ly fur
u ryy pee eel mamake kess a eet
ke eetin
e eettin
ing g ap
a pep arran
a ccee on st s reeett car a ts
ts for jus u ta stai
st ain n evevererryt
y hi
hing
ng
n g in thei
thheiir wake
wake
wa k wit ith th
ith thei
eirr ma
maje jest
je s ic
st ic deeep pu purp r lele co ololouurr.
few
fe w weweek e so
ek off sum
umme mer ev e erry yyeear ar. With
Wi th
h an as asse
seerti
rttiv
ive pepers rssona
onnalitty th that
a per
at e fe
fect
c lyy mat
ct a chcheseess the
heir ir bri r llliant
iaan ntt toon ne,
e,
Etym
Et ym mololog
og
o giccaalllyy kno nown wn n by th he nanamem Gr
me G ewia
ew
wiaa asi siat
iat a, ph
a iicca, phalallsa
a loo
o ks k jamu
ja m ns ev
mu evok
o e st
ok stro
ro
ong rea eactccttio
ions
ns fror m ev ver
e yyoone wh hoo triies th heem.
m
liike a ber erry
ry.. Bu
ry Butt iti is in fac actt a drupdrup
dr upe, e the sciien
e, e ti tic
c ter
c e m us used ed
d to de descrsccri
ribee
ribe Jaamu
m n,, or o Syyzy z gi gium
um cu ummin ni,
i is thhe ffrrui
u t of a ow wererini g tr
in tree
tree
e and n is
f ui
fr u tsts thathaat ha
have a eshy esshyy exter xtterrio
iorr co ove
veriring
ringg a har a d pit piit orr sto tone
nee at ththee knnow own n by y sev
ever
eral
er all othther nam
ther mes inc n luudidingng ja
j mbmbul ul,, Ja
ul Javav plu
va lum,
um m,, Mallab abaraarr
ceentre
nttre
re. He Henc e ph
ncce, p al alsa as acactu tual
allly
y hav a e mo more r in co
re c mm mono wit ith
h ap
aprriico otst, p um
pl m and so on on. LiL ke k ph phalalsa
al lsa
as, jja
amu
muns
muns n arre al also
so drupe ru
upep s bu b t th theieirr larglaarg
r e,,
pllum
p ums, s,, pea
each
ches
ch es and nd che herr rrrrie
iess thhana wit ith
h bl
blue
uebe
ue berr
be rrie
rr iiees an nd sttra r wb
wber errrriies
e. o lo
ob long
ng g seeedsds havve a raw, raaw,
w, veg gettal
al tasste thaat is not too ple leas
assanant.t
M st com
Mo ommo mo onl
nly av avai aila
ai labl
la b e in
bl n nor orthth
h Ind diai and d Guj ujar
a at
ar at,, phhaallsa
s s Avai
Av a laable
ai blle in
n mos ostt pa
p rt rtss of
of thee cou unt
ntry by la
ntry latetee May and d Jun ne,, we
aree ex
ar extr trem
tr emmel
ely fr
ely frag
agilili e an
ag nd te tend
end
nd to pe perir shh withi
ithiin a feew ho hour urss of
ur o being eiing g lo ve jamu
ove jamu
ja m ns n foforr thei
th
heirr r rm, br
rm, b ou
ouss e
eshshh tha
hatt is
i swe weet ett wheen th thee fr frui uits
ui
pluc
pl uccke
ked d. Thi
d.
d.T hiss is
i wh hyy theyheey ra r re
rely
ly makke thei th
heirr wa
wayy to o sup
uper errma
mark r et
rk ets
ts and
annd riipe
p n an and d taartt wheen th t ey hav avenent
en t matturured
edd fulullylyy. Bu
Butt tht e un uniq ique
iq uee
r main
re maain a qui uint
ntes
nt esse
sent
se ntia
nt iaal stre
sttrereet
e sna
et n ck alo long
ng wit ith h im
imlili an nd beer, ea eate
teen frfres
essh qual
qu i y off ja
a it
al j muns
muunsn th tha
hatat pol o ar
arisises
ises
es opiini
no on ns is
i theh irr str tran
ange
an gely lyy add ddic icctitive
v
ve
w th a spr
wi priin
nkl
klin
ing
in g ofof ka kala la
a nam mak to co ompm o ou und (an nd ba b la lancnce)
nc e) th
e) heeirr a tr
as t in nge
g nccy th thata dri
at r ese out u the ton ongugue,
gu e wh
e, hiilee als
lso o co
c mp mpel e lil ng
el g you o to
sw weeet- t so our
ur ava ou
our. r.W Whe h n yo y u bi b tete int
nto o a ph hal
a sa a, itts asastrt in
tr nge
gent
nt tasstee k ep eat
ke a in
i g them
th
heemm. Al A th hou
o gh h ja
jamumun
mu n e
endn s enjo
nd enjo
en joyy ea e titnngg the fru ruit
uit as is is
co
coat
oat
a s an nd drd ie
iess yo
yourur pal alat
aatte th he vev ryr rea easo
son
so n we we rel elis
issh it.
ish itt. Th
The
he cr c un
unch chyy
ch with
wi th just
th usst a dadash
ash h of sa saltl to ta
lt t me thee asttring riin
nggency
ency
en cy,, th he frufrui
fr uitss arree als lso o usu ed d
gree
gr eeen seeed
een d is al
also
so edibl
so diiblle.e Butt wheen mi m xed wi w th sug ugar
arr and d mad a e in intoto to
o makke pr presser
erve
rve
vess,
s, jam
ams aan
ams nd sher
sh
herrbe
b ts
ts..
a sh
s errbet,bet, the
be he fruruitit lososes
seess its ast strri
ring
n en e cycy andn taakkes on a plea pleaasasantnt, tang
nt
nt, taangy
ng gy Jamu
Ja muns ar a e sas id to h haaveve sev ever
eral
er a meed dic
icinnalal prro ope
pert
ert
rtie
iees th they
ey are r
qu uallit
i y that
th
hat
at is espe
esspe
p cial
ciiala ly suiite tedd to the h sw weelt
l er
erin
iin
ng su summmm merr mon o th hs.. annti ti-i
- n
-i nam am
mma mato t ry
to ry and effeect c ivve in
in reggulu at
atinin
ng ho horm
horm mon onee sy syst stem
st emms an nd
Apar
Ap art fr
ar f omm havvin ing g a co c ol effeect c on th he bo
body dy,, ph
dy p allsa is i a ricch sso our
urce
ce reeliliev
evvinng skkiin n proroblblem
bl ems.
em s. But ut they
heey arre bebesst
st kn noownw fo orr theheirirr abibililility
tyy to
of vitam
itamin
it am
min n C, wh hicich in
ich i tur urn n en nab bleless ir
iron
onn abs
b ororpt p io
pt on.. It is i con o siside
deereredd lo
owweer bl b oo od susugagaar leevev lsl , wh
whic ich
ic h is whyhy theheyy ara e co onsn iiddere ed d parrttiicu c lalarlrlyy
rl
vita
vi taal fo
forr he
heart
arrt heeala th h. Al
A l th he momorre re reaasonsoon too see eekk ou outt this
th
hisis tarrt frfrui
uit. beenec
neec
iaal foforr di
diab
diab beteticcss..

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