Sikkim. Tenzin C.

Tashi

If there is one single, solitary image that can capture the quintessence of Sikkim, it is
none other than the mighty Khangchendzonga. The mountain dominates Sikkim’s
cultural ethos and her very identity as indomitably and effortlessly as it straddles her
landscape. Locals worship the mountain as the abode of their guardian deity of the
eponymous name, Khangchendzonga or the mountain of five sacred treasures.
Khangchendzonga is an emanation of Kuvera or Namsey Dungmar, the one with the red
spear. In religious iconography the guardian deity Khangchendzonga or ‘Dzo-nga’ is
depicted as an awesome red-countenanced deity with a crown of flags and skulls and with
the mystical third eye emblazoned prominently on his forehead. He is dressed in
resplendent multi-hued brocade robes. His mount is the majestic green- and- white Snow
Lion and he holds aloft in left hand a ‘norbu’ or wish-fulfilling precious jewel and, in his
right hand, the ‘gyaltsen’ or the banner of victory.
So integral is Khangchendzonga to Sikkim that we have an entire festival dedicated to the
Worship of the Snowy Range. The Pang Lhabsol festival which is unique to Sikkim is
celebrated with great fanfare every September. Earlier when Sikkim was a kingdom,
Pang Lhabsol was celebrated as National Day at the Tsuklakhang Royal Chapel in
Gangtok.
People from all walks of life would congregate there to offer the first bounty of their
harvest to the giant effigies of Dzo-nga and Mahakala and then sit enthralled as the
magnificent pageantry of the masked dances would unfold in stunning visual splendour in
front of the chapel. Dzo-nga, or a monk dressed up as him rather, would make a dramatic
entrance along with his soldiers- the ‘Pangtoed’ warriors- in a colourful panoply of
intricate dance steps and ritual songs in praise of Dzo-nga.
It was Dzo-nga who in the guise of a swan helped our patron saint Lhatsun Chenpo find a
way into ‘Beyul Demajong’ the hidden valley of rice , what we know as Sikkim today.
History has it that in 1642 A.D. three wise lamas from Tibet found their way from the
west, south and north into Beyul Demajong. The three lamas- Lhatsun Namkha Jigme,
Ngadak Sempa Chenpo and Kathog Kuntu Zangpo- consecrated Phuntsog Namgyal the
first Denjong ‘Chogyal’ or the king who rules with righteousness
at Yuksom Norbughang in West Sikkim, in what is known as the ‘ Naljor Chezhi’ or the
meeting of the four yogic brothers.
The three lamas then set about building monasteries and establishing Buddhism in
Sikkim while the Chogyal consolidated his political position. Twelve generations of
Namgyals ruled the kingdom for 333 years from 1642 A.D. to 1975 A.D. when Sikkim
was formally inducted into the Indian Union as its 22nd state.
Since then, so much has changed, so much remains the same.
The simple stone throne on which the first Chogyal was crowned still stands in a shady
tranquil nook of Yuksom Norbughang, a silent sentinel which no wind of change can
touch while nearby, the formerly sleepy old hamlet of Pelling bustles righteously as the
modern tourist destination it has morphed into.
In Sikkim’s many old monasteries, young ‘Drachungs’ or monks still struggle to master
the ancient knowledge of Lord Buddha’s texts while red-cheeked school children skip to
their village schools to acquire a more modern-day knowledge which includes computer
education.
The Tsuklakhang courtyard in Gangtok no longer resonates with the clash of cymbals and
swirl of brocade robes during Pang Lhabsol but Rabongla in South Sikkim celebrated its
silver jubilee edition of the Pang Lhabsol in spectacular fashion a few years ago.
Down in the valley, the mighty river Teesta churns his way downhill to the plains as
tumultuously as he raced his lover, the sedate Rangeet in Lepcha folklore even as the
latest cars of every stable and every segment race along on Sikkim’s lifeline, the National
Highway 31A.
The world’s tallest statue of Guru Padmasambhava at Samdruptse in South Sikkim
proudly reaffirms Sikkim’s ancient status as Guru Rinpoche’s own land, while the
profusion of new temples, churches and mosques reflect her changing demographic
profile.
And yet so much of Sikkim remains quintessentially Buddhist. Buddhism was first
introduced to Sikkim by Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century. For a long time, it was
the state religion, as evidenced by nearly 200 imposing monasteries and Guru Lhakhangs.
These man-made institutions of the Buddhist faith in conjunction with the many sacred
natural caves and lakes that abound in Sikkim and also the many ‘gters’ or the sacred
treasures said to have been hidden liberally in the land by Guru Rinpoche compellingly
bring alive the Buddhist way of life so deeply entrenched in Sikkim’s soul. The Buddha’s
gentle religion is as omnipresent as the inevitable ‘tharchoks’ or prayer flags that dot
Sikkim’s landscape, releasing prayers for the well-being of all sentient beings on Earth as
they flutter on above in rows and rows of pristine white and sometimes green, red, blue
and yellow hues.
So intrinsic was the Buddhist faith to the Sikkim of yore that it was a tradition for each
family to send a son for a monastic education. But monasteries, most of which
commandeered a vantage point on a hill near a village, were not just the repositories of
the faith. They were also the hubs of Sikkimese art and the centre of each village’s
activities for most major events such as births, weddings, sickness and death necessarily
involve religious ceremonies performed by monks.
Sikkim’s vibrant cultural heritage finds exuberant expression in a plethora of festivals
and festivities that mark a bustling calendar. The different faiths have their own distinct
festivals. Yet it is not uncommon for the people of Sikkim to take part in each other’s
festivals, be it the Lepcha Tendong Lho Rum Faat, or the Bhutia harvest festival of
Losoong, or the typically Hindu Dasain with characteristic bonhomie.
Perhaps nowhere is the subtle intermingling of cultures more pronounced than in the
preponderance of the ‘khada’ or silk scarf in Sikkim. The practice of offering the khada is
now an almost subconscious action for her people, the simple silk swathe cutting across
all faiths in a single unifying gesture of respect.
Sikkim’s tiny size geographically is beguilingly deceptive of the profound diversity she
harbours close within her boundaries. The climate varies from sub-tropical heat to the
biting alpine cold, endowing Sikkim with an enviable bio-diversity and an unstinted
natural bounty. This translates into a real Eden replete with a profusion of flora, fauna.
and avifauna. Sikkim boasts of many birds and butterflies and over 4000 varieties of wild
flowers that run riot in a blaze of colour, including 600 varieties of orchids.
Interestingly, it was my grandfather Yap Tse Ten Tashi, Sikkim’s first native orchidarian,
amateur botanist and photographer who discovered Sikkim’s 601st orchid. He named it
‘Cymbidium Ebernum var Denjong Chogyal’ in honour of the twelfth Chogyal of
Sikkim, Palden Thondup Namgyal.
The ‘fairytale kingdom’ now consigned to the annals of history alone, Sikkim still
continues to intrigue the world as a mystical land over which the mighty Dzo-nga
fulminates protectively from his snow capped realm.
Be it the serious pilgrim or the camera toting city slicker who would see all, do all or the
weary at heart who seek a soul destination, Sikkim has so much to offer all her visitors.
Whether it is the increasingly popular home-stays where one can get a first-hand
experience of life with a rural Sikkim family, the trekking routes that traverse the land of
the mountain gods, the sight of dawn firing the already achingly beautiful Siniolchu peak
a mesmerizing shade of tawny gold, the flamboyance of the colourful festivals where
masked dancers whirl in the courtyard of a century old monastery, the local cuisine which
is a melting pot of diverse influences, butterflies and orchids vying to outshine each other
or the intricately created handicrafts, there’s something for everyone to savour and
remember long after the trip is over.
For the adventure seeker, there’s plenty to choose from. One could start easy, with a
culinary adventure, experimenting with our exotic ‘soucha’ or nettle soup and the
traditional ‘tongba’ of fermented millet beer that has most people red-faced and asking
for more. For the overtly physical types, Sikkim Tourism in association with Travel
Agents Association of Sikkim (TAAS) has some adrenaline-pumping activities lined up.
Choose from trekking though some fascinating trials that meander through hillsides
ablaze with the rhododendrons, to sharing a mug of Tibetan butter-tea with nomadic yak
herders on high alpine meadows, murmuring a prayer at a remote monastery or just
breathing in the pure mountain air. Trekking and camping gear can be hired from TAAS
members. But do remember Sikkim is big on ecotourism. Please do not litter our trails,
and leave only your footprints behind.
Travel agents can procure a Protected Area Permit for mountaineering enthusiasts who
would pit their wits against the Khangchendzonga and Singalila bulwarks. Jopuno and
Tinchenkhang peaks have also been opened up for mountaineers. However all
expeditions to Khangchendzonga from the Sikkim side have always stopped a few feet
shy of the summit in deference to the religious sentiments of the people.
White-water rafting on the Teesta and Rangeet rivers provides a dash of pure
exhilaration. These rivers are as feisty as they come, fed as they are by the melting snows
of glaciers from on high. The Teesta especially is a brooding green that defies definition,
a fathomless shade that changes from jade green to almost sage emerald at times.
Kayaking in fiberglass kayaks is another Teesta-centric thrill.
Mountain biking is being promoted in a big way lately, with a grueling international
challenge that traverses through several constituencies of Sikkim. Established biking
trails like Gangtok- Adampool-Rumtek-Lingdum-Ranka-Gangtok find many takers.
For some out of the ordinary adventure, nothing beats the yak safaris offered at Tso-mgo
and Dzongri. The gaily-caparisoned animals of the sure feet and bushy tails are a big
draw with tourists and locals alike.
For an altogether different Sikkim experience, Sikkim Tourism operates the hugely
popular helicopter mountain flights. The five-seater chopper flies different sorties such
has the 90 minute Khangchendzonga flight, the 70 minute Yumthang flight, the 60
minute West Sikkim flight and the 20 minute Gangtok flight. Cameras are allowed only
on the last two flights for defence and security reasons. Alternatively, you can charter the
chopper for a customized aerial joyride.
If the term ‘destination within a destination’ was coined for one place, it is Sikkim. There
is so much to see and do in each of the four districts Sikkim has been divided into for
administrative purposes.
The East District with its headquarters at Gangtok, the capital is the preferred first leg of
the Sikkim experience. Gangtok though getting a little claustrophobic over the years, is a
blend of old world charm and modern attractions. A walk through the historic bazaar that
has now been converted into a pedestrian-only mall, an hour or two imbibing the sights,
sounds and smells of the rebuilt Lall Bazaar where the villagers converge every Satruday
and Sunday to hawk their farm produce, a visit to the Government Institute of Cottage
Industries where you can buy thangkas, choktses and hand knotted carpets are a must do
on every tourist’s wish list.
Some popular day trips include a two-hour ride up to the beautiful Tso-mgo lake. The
lake is revered as sacred by locals and it is said the lamas can predict the future from the
colour of the lake. Indian nationals can travel further up to the historic 14,200 feet high
Nathula pass or the Pass of the Listening Ear on the India-China border. Once marred by
several skirmishes, the Nathula pass, now open for border trade, is a perpetually busy
place in the few months of trading.
Rumtek and Lingdum monasteries are also very popular with tourists who would take in
a bit of culture. The recently inaugurated Ban Jhakri Falls Park which is a theme park
centred around shamanistic rituals and traditions is turning out to be a major hit as well.
West Sikkim is shrouded in history and religion. The Buddhist circuit here makes for a
soul journey unreplicated anywhere else. Apart from Yuksom, West Sikkim is home to
Dubdi and Sangacholing, two of Sikkim’s oldest monasteries. Home too to Pemayangtse
(the Perfect Sublime Lotus) monastery, Sikkim’s premier monastery.
The epicenter of Sikkim is said to be the holy Tashiding gonpa. Lhatsun Chenpo built the
famous chorten of Tashiding, ‘Thongwa Rangdol’ which is so sacred that just one
glimpse of the stupa cleanses one of a lifetime of sins. Tashiding also hosts the annual
Bhumchu ceremony unique to Sikkim. This festival witnesses the opening of the copper
bhumpa or vase used by Guru Rinpoche himself. It contains the over 300 years old sacred
water, the volume of which is used to predict Sikkim’s fortunes for the coming year.
Every year some part of the water is distributed amongst the devotees who come from as
far as Bhutan and Nepal to partake of the holy water that has miraculous healing
properties and also in the belief they will not be reborn as a lower life form.
Khecheopalri, a lake so sacred that the birds themselves do not allow a single leaf to float
on its surface, is a soul destination. As is the Varsey rhododendron sanctuary. For
different reasons. One so tranquil, one so full of life and colour. Trekking enthusiasts will
also be spoilt for choice in West Sikkim.
If the West is steeped in religion and history, North Sikkim is mostly about alpine
splendours. Though to be fair, Kabi Longtsok where the Bhutia and Lepcha chieftains
swore blood brotherhood lies on the North Sikkim highway as do the three monasteries of
Phensang, Phodong and Labrang.
Yumthang at 11,800 feet is a most alluring destination, coming alive in spring in a
rainbow of colours of alpine flowers- primulae, rhododendrons and wildflowers-or
wearing a blanket of snow in winter. Beautiful both ways.
The natural sulphur-rich hot springs of Yume Samdong beats any man-made spa while
the Khangchendzonga National Park, one of the highest in the world, straddles a large
part of North Sikkim and is home to many exotic animals like the Snow Leopard, the
Tibetan Wildass and the Shapi.
Tholung is as famous for its historic monastery as it is for birding. Kishong Tso is a
relatively unexplored lake where paddy miraculously grows without human intervention.
Gurudongmar, the milky-white sacred lake revered by both Hindus and Buddhists, is the
jewel in the crown of North Sikkim and has many travelers gushing reams about its
haunting beauty.
South Sikkim, the smallest district boasts the worlds’ tallest statue of Guru Rinpoche at
Samdruptse. Tiny hamlets provide a great rural experience in the shadow of the Tendong
and Maenam Hills which legend has saved the Lepcha race during a cataclysmic flood.
Rabongla has reinvented itself, hosting both the Pang Lhabsol festival as well as another
annual festival with great gusto.
For all her diversity, Sikkim’s soul still lies in her villages. Largely untouched by the
vagaries of modern-day life, the rural people still lead a simple yet dignified life tending
to their ancestral plots and preserving the customs and traditions of an ancient hidden
land.
Some things in life can only be experienced, not reproduced. Come savour your Sikkim
experience!