184

REC IPES
GI F TS
OUR GLIT TERY
HOMEMADE

+ T I PS
G U M MY
CANDIES ARE
ALMOST
TOO PRE T T Y
TO E AT
P. 8 5

D E C 16 / J A N 17
 BONAPPETIT.COM

dec-jan
T H E H O L I DAY I SS U E

F E AT U R E S

108 136
SNOWED IN SUGAR RUSH!
Chef Ludo Lefebvre Whats black and
escapes with his white and red
family for Gruyre all over? This years
fondue, escargots, batch of nostalgic
and steak au poivre holiday cookies.
high up in the RECIPES BY ANNA POSEY
Sierra Nevadas.
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ 146
SUNNY SIDE UP
120 After you unwrap
NOSH IN THE those presents,
NEW YEAR come to chef Jessica
Smoked fish, vodka Koslows L.A.
in ice, rye bread, backyard for a chill
and, uh, caviar! Christmas Day brunch.
Thats how you BY CHRISTINE MUHLKE
ring in 2017 right.
BY AMIEL STANEK ON THE COVER
AND CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Boozy Gummy
126 Candies (for
CHRISTMAS recipe, see p. 105).
DELUXE Photograph by
Showstopping mains Michael Graydon
that will impress even + Nikole Herriott.
your toughest guests. Food styling by Susan
RECIPES BY
Spungen. Prop styling
ANDY BARAGHANI by Amy Wilson.
Ribbon illustration by
George Wylesol.

B I D FA R E W E L L

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
T O 2 016 W I T H
A FA N C Y F I S H
R O E PA R T Y.

P . 12 0
 B O N A P P T I T V O L U M E 61 N U M B E R 12

dec-jan
T H E H O L I DAY I SS U E

H O L I DAY S P E C I A L C O LU M N S

GIFTS SW E E T S
20
R.S.V.P.
27 85 Reader requests
GIFT GUIDE ALL TIED UP and an etiquette
This year weve got Wrap these jellies, guide for gift giving.
glorious upgrades chocolates, and 165
of kitchen essentials, cookies in some PREP SCHOOL
from copper sweet packaging. Affordable bubbly,
measuring cups all of the cookie
to a lightweight 92
TRUE COLORS tools, and much more.
cast-iron skillet.
Vibrant food dyes 174
go au naturel. BACK OF THE
CHEERS
BY JUNO D E MELO
RECIPES BY JULIA EVERIST
NAPKIN
53 Well, yes, Ryan
ON THE BUBBLE 94 Seacrest is busy
Sparkling cocktails HAVE YOUR on New Years Eve.
have all the fun. FRUITCAKE BY DAVID WALTERS
BY TALIA BAIOCCHI No dry loaves here.
56 IN EVERY ISSUE
PACK A WALLOP S E AS O N S 18 editors letter
READINGS
Who wants punch? 170 recipe index
BY TRISTAN WILLEY
66 170 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
58 THE LAST
LARGE AND EUROPEAN
IN CHARGE CHRISTMAS
Magnums are bigger, Marina OLoughlins
and bigger is better. oh-so-Euro
BY MARISSA A. ROSS English holiday.

60 82
GET THE PARTY THE SECOND
STARTED COMING OF THE
Were inviting crispy, SCHNECKEN
seedy crackers and a Julia Kramer discovers
bubbling, cheesy dip. the allure of a family
sticky bun recipe.
E AT S
96
69 CLEANS UP
MAIL MODELS REAL NICE
Brooks Headley
Goose, lamb, and
celebrates the least-
more, delivered
revered kitchen job.
right to your door.
BY ASHLEA HALPERN
POPPIN

77 BOT TLES FOR

ONEPOT T H I S S E A S O N S
WONDERS FESTIVE
Full house, full meal. COCKTAILS.

P. 5 3
80
HOLIDAY
ESCAPE
Yotam Ottolenghis
healthy-night-in soup.

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial ofces: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
 W H AT S

Y O U R H O L I D AY Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Publisher, Chief Revenue Ofcer
PAMELA DRUCKER MANN

D R I N K I N G Director, StrategyCreative Director ALEX GROSSMAN

& Operations BETTY WONG ORTIZ
Associate Publisher, Head of Marketing ERIC JOHNSON
Head of Revenue CRAIG KOSTELIC

ST RATEGY? Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON Senior National Director, Advertising & Brand Partnerships JORDANA PRANSKY

Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC

Features Editor KURT SOLLER

Senior Editors JULIA KRAMER, MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Associate Editor AMIEL STANEK
Contributing Editorial Assistant ASHLEY MASON
Editor at Large CHRISTINE MUHLKE
Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON
Senior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN
Designer ALEX TATUSIAN Junior Designer ROSIE NABEREZNY
Photo Director ALEX POLLACK
Deputy Photo Editor ELIZABETH JAIME Associate Photo Editor EMILY EISEN
Video Producer VINCENT CROSS Staff Photographer ALEX LAU
Photo Assistant LAURA MURRAY Contributing Food Stylist SUE LI
Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS
Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, RICK MARTINEZ, CHRIS MOROCCO
Senior Associate Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE
Contributing Assistant Food Editor AMELIA RAMPE
Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ
Design Production Associate KATE FENOGLIO
NEVER NOG
Associate Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEY
A N E G G . Copy Chief GREG ROBERTSON
Research Director CHRISTINE PENBERTHY
Special Projects Associate LILLI SHERMAN
Editorial Business Assistant SAMANTHA SIEGFRIED
Assistant to the Editor in Chief EMMA WARTZMAN
Editor, Bonappetit.com CAREY POLIS
Senior Web Editor ALEX BEGGS Associate Web Editor ELYSSA GOLDBERG
Assistant Web Editor ALEX DELANY Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN
Head of Product ERIC GILLIN Product Manager BRENDAN BRYANT
Engineering Manager MARK LINDERMAN Senior Software Engineer DANYLO BERKO
Software Engineers JUAN MIGUEL JAVIER, CHRISTOPHER LEBRON, ALAN SIEGLER
Associate Analytics Director BILAL SHAIKH Audience Development Manager JAMES CRENSHAW
Contributors BROOKS HEADLEY, REBECCA JURKEVICH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI,
MICKEY RAPKIN, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, MARISSA A. ROSS, BEN SCHOTT , ANDY WARD;
MARIELLE OLENTINE (VIDEO); ROXANNA BAER, MATT CARSON (TABLET);
MALLORY SCHULTZ (WEB); BRYNA JEANMARIE, BAO ONG (RESEARCH);
BRIAN CARROLL, MARLAINE GLICKSMAN, JANET STAFFORD (COPY)
Executive Director, Public Relations FREDERIKA BROOKFIELD
Associate Director, Public Relations NATE ERICKSON
National Advertising Director JEANNIE LIVESAY
Executive Director, Finance & Business Operations BARBRA PERLSTEIN
Executive Director, Insights & Strategy COURTNEY WARCO VERDIER
Executive Director, Marketing & Creative Strategy BREE M CKENNEY
ADVERTISING NEW YORK
Executive Director, Finance & New England MELISSA GOOLNICK
Executive Directors STEFANIE BERGER, FRANCESCA COIA
Director, Digital Operations MARY BETH DWYER
Digital Account Managers ISABEL KIERENCEW, ERICA STEINBERG, SEAN WALTER
Digital Strategist MICHELLE PERRICONE
Digital Sales Planners MELISSA RANDALL, LENA PERLMUTTER
Digital Campaign Managers KATE BUCKLEY, MELISSA EISEN
Associate Business Managers JACQUI SNYDER, JESSICA REINHARDT
Executive Assistant to the Publisher DANI ROSEN
Advertising Coordinator EMILY EFRAIMOV
Sales Assistants JUSTIN CAREY, CATHRYN MAHONEY,
KAITLYN MARLEY, TAYLOR M CKENNA, MARIAM RASTEGAR, NATASHA TREE
INTEGRATED MARKETING & INSIGHTS
Senior Integrated Marketing Director HAYLEY RUSSMAN
Insights Director HILLARY SMITH
Integrated Marketing Director DINA BIBLARZ
Associate Director, Integrated Marketing TARA MELVIN
Associate Director, Integrated Marketing ALEX HOPSON
Senior Managers, Integrated Marketing CHRISTIN D E MARIA, MARION BREWER
Integrated Marketing Managers NINA BOLKA, ADAM BROCK, EMILY CHAN
Associate Manager, Integrated Marketing NATALIE MERIN
Associate Manager, Insights KELLY QUACKENBUSH
Marketing Coordinators ANDREA PARDO, CATHERINE TOUHILL, NATALIA KUDRYK
Insights Associate Coordinator LINDSEY M CKENNA
CREATIVE SERVICES
Creative Director SARAH SALVATORIELLO S OM E T H I N G
Art Director PHUONG NGUYEN WA R M , S P I C E D ,
Senior Designer CORINNE VIANA
A N D S P I K E D .
Designer STEPHANIE STANLEY
Senior Producer JULIE SULLIVAN
Copywriter SARAH M CLELLAN
Special Events Manager JENNIFER CASSEL
Executive Chef MARY NOLAN
BRANCH OFFICES
Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTOR
Los Angeles MELISSA LEE, DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTOR
Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTOR
Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, ZMEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY
Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES Mexico ALCHEMIA

Artistic Director
ANNA WINTOUR

PUBLISHED BY COND NAST

A D R I N K I N H A N D
Chairman Emeritus S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR. I M M E D I AT E LY
Chairman CHARLES H. TOWNSEND A N D A LWAYS W I T H
President & Chief Executive Officer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR. F O O D ! P R E F E R A B LY
S OM E T H I N G S A LT Y
Chief Financial Ofcer DAVID E. GEITHNER
Chief Business Ofcer, President of Revenue, Cond Nast JAMES M. NORTON A N D C R U N C H Y.
EVPChief Digital Ofcer FRED SANTARPIA
Chief Human Resources Ofcer JOANN MURRAY
Chief Communications Ofcer CAMERON R. BLANCHARD
I F I T S YO U R Chief Technology Ofcer EDWARD CUDAHY
O F F I C E PA RT Y, EVPConsumer Marketing MONICA RAY
TA K E T H E DAY SVPBusiness Operations DAVID ORLIN
SVPManaging Director23 Stories JOSH STINCHCOMB
AFTER OFF SVPNetwork Sales & Partnerships, CN & Chief Revenue Ofcer, CN LISA VALENTINO
I N A DVA N C E . SVPFinancial Planning & Analysis SUZANNE REINHARDT
SVPStrategy23 Stories PADRAIG CONNOLLY
Those submitting
SVPAd Products & Monetization DAVID ADAMS manuscripts, photographs,
Senior Vice President, Licensing CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER artwork, or other materials
to Bon Apptit for
Senior Vice President, Research & Analytics STEPHANIE FRIED consideration should not
Senior Vice President, Digital Operations LARRY BAACH send originals unless
specically requested to do
SVPHuman Resources NICOLE ZUSSMAN so by Bon Apptit in writing.
General ManagerDigital MATTHEW STARKER Unsolicited manuscripts,
photographs, and other
submitted materials must be
COND NAST ENTERTAINMENT accompanied by a
self-addressed return
President DAWN OSTROFF envelope, postage prepaid.
EVP/General ManagerDigital Video JOY MARCUS , EVPChief Operating Ofcer SAHAR ELHABASHI However, Bon Apptit
is not responsible for
EVPMotion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER unsolicited submissions.
EVPAlternative TV JOE L ABRACIO, Executive Vice President, CN Studios AL EDGINGTON Subscription inquiries:
Please write to Bon Apptit,
SVPMarketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA
50037; call 800-765-9419
COND NAST INTERNATIONAL (515-243-3273 from
outside the U.S.A.); send
Chairman & Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE e-mail to subscriptions@
President NICHOLAS COLERIDGE bonappetit.com; or visit our
website, bonappetit.com.

Cond Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.

WWW.CONDENAST.COM
WWW.CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL.COM

1 6 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
editors letter
TENDER IS THE NIGHT
Oh man, that was the best New Years ever.
Thats my friend Alex talking. I texted her a few weeks back
becauselets just say I was struggling to recall some crucial
details from the monumental night in question.
It wasnt some raging bash, but a dinner party. And therein
lay the genius of it.
This was ten years ago. My wife, Simone, and I were living
in a one-bedroom Greenwich Village apartment. A few days
before New Years, we asked each other, What if we dont go
out this year? What if we dont schlep from party to party,
trying desperately to hail cabs on a 23-degree night?
Turns out we werent alone in our thinking. We made a few
calls and in no time we assembled a crew of ten. We had all
reached that age when staying in on New Years Eve was sud-
denly a lot more enticing than going out. And, boy, was that a
smart decision.
Heres what I do remember about the evening:
If we were going to throw a dinner party, we were going to
do it right. I pulled on a tuxedo that I had probably worn once
before in my life. My good friend Brett Martin recalls, a decade
later, wearing a tie to our apartment and what a novelty that
was. Simone wore this vintage gothic-y silk dress.
As the kids might say, we came correct.
Everyone showed up with Champagne and we jammed the
bottles into ice-filled buckets. Hors doeuvres? Cant for the life
of me remember. But I do know that guests arrived at 9 p.m.,
1 8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
Want the full
recipe for Adams
roast? Go to
bonappetit.com
/tenderloin
and for the next two and a half hours we popped bubbly, blasted
music, and played parlor games predicting events of the com-
ing year, like whether a certain aging celebrity would outlive
Keith Richards. (All these years later Keith is still with us; the
celeb in question, not so much.)
By 11:30 we were deliriously happy, warm and cozy, and rav-
enous. And thats when I set out what I still consider the absolute
perfect, fail-proof meal: obscenely buttery pured potatoes, sim-
ply sauted spinach with garlic, and a classic beef tenderloin
roasted to a medium-rare.
That tenderloin, the ultimate crowd-pleaser, couldnt be eas-
ier to prepare: I seasoned it generously with a mix of salt,
pepper, chopped rosemary, and smashed garlic. Before guests
arrived I cut the roast in two and seared it all over in a large
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.
cast-iron skillet until it was nicely browned and set it aside.
Shortly before we (finally) sat down, I roasted it at 250 until
about half an hour later it reached an interior temp of 120. I let
it rest a bit, then sliced and served it with lots of horseradish
sour cream sauce.
These days I dont know if I can handle a two-and-a-half-hour
cocktail hour, but I do know what Ill be serving for dinner this
New Years Eve.
A DA M R A P O P O R T
Editor in Chief
r.s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

about 5 minutes. Transfer to oven and

DEAR BON APPTIT, ON A RECENT VISIT TO DENVER, WE roast until an instant-read thermometer
STOPPED AT ROOT DOWN. I ORDERED THE PORK TENDERLOIN inserted into the thickest part of tenderloin
WITH GREEN COCONUT CURRY, AND I HAVENT STOPPED registers 130, 2025 minutes.
THINKING ABOUT THE DELICIOUS CREAMY SAUCE SINCE. Transfer to a cutting board; let rest
RO B E R T S O D E R S T RO M , Roc h es t e r, N Y at least 10 minutes before slicing.

S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY While meat

is cooking, heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large
GREEN CURRY 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest saucepan over medium. Cook shallot
PORK TENDERLOIN 1 14.5-oz. can unsweetened and garlic, stirring often, until softened,
4 SERVINGS Prepared curry paste is a coconut milk about 3 minutes. Add curry paste and
great shortcut ingredient; it carries a ton 1 Tbsp. agave nectar lime zest and cook, stirring constantly,
of flavor and has a very long shelf life. 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice until paste is slightly darkened in color
cup cilantro leaves, plus more and very fragrant, about 4 minutes.
T E N D E R LO I N for serving Add coconut milk, bring to a simmer,
cup soy sauce Unsalted, roasted pumpkin seeds and cook until reduced by half,
2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice (pepitas; for serving) 2025 minutes. Let curry mixture cool.
1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup Transfer curry mixture to a blender
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil T E N D E R LO I N Combine soy sauce, orange and add agave, lime juice, cup
1 pork tenderloin (about 1 lb.) juice, maple syrup, and sesame oil cilantro, and 2 Tbsp. water; blend until
Kosher salt in a large resealable plastic bag. Add very smooth. With motor running, add
1 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil tenderloin; close bag, pressing out air. remaining cup oil in a steady stream;
Chill, turning once, 412 hours. Remove blend until sauce is thick and emulsified.
S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY tenderloin from marinade and pat dry; Transfer to a small saucepan and heat
1 Tbsp. plus cup grapeseed discard marinade. Season lightly with salt. over medium just until warmed through.
or vegetable oil Preheat oven to 250. Heat grapeseed Serve pork over sauce topped with
1 medium shallot, chopped oil in a large ovenproof skillet over cilantro and pumpkin seeds.
1 garlic clove medium-high. Cook tenderloin, turning D O A H E A D : Sauce can be made
cup prepared green curry paste occasionally, until browned on all sides, 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.

2 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 * S U B M I SS I O N S B E C O M E T H E P R O P E R T Y O F B O N A P P T I T.
r.s.v.p.
THE CHEF SAYS
I cook this in a big
skillet for dinner parties and
use a smaller pan for lunch.
Crimping the edges makes it BEN SCHOTTS
stand up like a cup when its ETIQUETTE
ipped out of the pan. GUIDE
CAMERON EMIRALI,
chef, 8 Hoxton Square
On Giving & Getting
THE UNREDEEMED

P Are gift cards ever

a good idea?
Only for the stores.
Last year $1 billion
worth were lost down
the back of sofas or
filed into oblivion.
If you insist on giving
one, ensure its for
STAFF a store the recipient
PICK shops from.

CASH IN HAND

THE SHALLOT TARTE TATIN AT 8 HOXTON SQUARE P For service

providers (like my
IN LONDON BLEW MY MIND. THE SAUTED MUSHROOMS dog walker), is cash
AND GOOEY CHEESE WENT TOGETHER PERFECTLY. really the only gift?
E M I LY E I S E N , assoc ia t e pho t o e di t or Yes! But give it with a
(dog-themed) card.

NO MEANS NO
SHALLOT TARTE TATIN baking sheet; season with salt and
4 SERVINGS To make ahead, let the tart pepper. Roast until tender and browned P How do I convince
people I really, truly
cool in pan, then reheat over medium to in spots, 2025 minutes. Let cool. Remove mean no gifts?
soften glaze before inverting. any leathery outer layers.
Meanwhile, bring vinegar and sugar To demonstrate your
request is sincere
1 Tbsp. pine nuts to a simmer in a small skillet over medium- suggest a charity.
or chopped almonds low, swirling occasionally, until syrupy,
6 large shallots, peeled, halved about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 Tbsp. butter;
PA RT Y W H I N E
lengthwise remove from heat. Arrange shallots, cut
2 tsp. vegetable oil side up, in skillet, overlapping slightly P Is there anything
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper if needed and filling in any gaps. to take to a dinner
cup balsamic vinegar Roll out puff pastry on a lightly floured party besides wine?
1 tsp. sugar surface just to smooth any creases (if box Its baffling that
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided has 2 sheets of pastry, stack and gently wine is the go-to
1 package frozen puff roll out to adhere). Cut out a circle thats gift, since many
pastry, thawed about 1" larger than the bottom of the get nervous buying
it. Instead, give
All-purpose flour (for surface) skillet; prick in several places with a fork. exceptional examples
8 oz. mixed mushrooms (such as Drape pastry over shallots, tucking edges of everyday staples:
maitake, oyster, and/or shiitake), inside skillet. Bake until pastry is golden fine olive oil,
torn into bite-size pieces brown and puffed, 2530 minutes. Champagne vinegar,
1 garlic clove, smashed Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp. artisanal pasta,
3 oz. burrata, torn, or ricotta butter in a medium skillet over medium- fleur de sel, etc.
1 cup baby arugula high. Cook mushrooms and garlic, tossing
oz. Parmesan, shaved often, until mushrooms are tender and G O O D G R AC E

Olive oil and lemon wedge
(for serving)
Preheat oven to 400. Toast nuts on
a rimmed baking sheet until golden brown,
about 4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
Toss shallots and vegetable oil on same
browned, 58 minutes. Season with salt P What if I get a gift I
and pepper; set aside. hate or already have?
Let tart sit until pastry is cooled slightly, Smile; say thank-you.
510 minutes. Carefully invert onto a plate.
Top with burrata, mushrooms, arugula,
Have a dilemma? E-mail
Parmesan, and nuts. Drizzle with olive oil askba@bonappetit.com
and lemon juice and season with salt.

2 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
r.s.v.p.
THE CHEF SAYS
Raw vegetables
can contribute texture
and flavor to a dish.
At our restaurant, we use
kale to cut the richness
of this spicy sauce.
JAMES MARK,
chef, North

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (PORK TENDERLOIN, TARTE TATIN, SESAME NOODLES); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (SKILLET, KALE); BRUCE HUTCHISON (DOG).
DEAR BON APPTIT, THE SESAME NOODLE DISH
AT NORTH IN PROVIDENCE IS ONE OF MY FAVORITES.
IVE TRIED TO RECREATE IT AT HOME A THOUSAND
TIMES, BUT I JUST CANT GET IT RIGHT. PLEASE HELP!
E L I S E FA R I A , Nor t h Kings t ow n, RI

COLD SESAME NOODLES 2 10-oz. packages fresh ramen

WITH BROCCOLI AND KALE
4 SERVINGS Instead of deep-frying
broccoli, we used a high-heat roasting
method and swapped the restaurants
sesame brittle for toasted seeds.
Similar flavors; easier to make at home.
1 large head of broccoli,
cut into large florets with
some stalk attached
2 garlic cloves, 1 finely grated,
1 thinly sliced, divided
1 tsp. sambal oelek
noodles or two
3-oz. packages dried
Torn mint leaves and toasted
sesame seeds (for serving)
Preheat oven to 450. Toss broccoli
with grated garlic, sambal oelek,
1 Tbsp. vinegar, and cup oil
on a rimmed baking sheet; season
with salt and pepper. Roast, tossing
occasionally, until tender and
browned in spots, 2025 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk scallions, ginger,
sliced garlic, 1 tsp. salt, tsp. pepper,
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

1 Tbsp. plus cup sherry vinegar

or red wine vinegar, divided
cup vegetable oil, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
tsp. freshly ground black
pepper, plus more
3 scallions, green parts only, thinly
sliced, plus more for serving
1 3" piece ginger, peeled,
cut into 1" matchsticks
4 cups chopped Tuscan kale leaves
and remaining cup vinegar and
cup oil in a large bowl. Add kale;
toss to coat. Let sit at room temperature
at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Cook noodles according to package
directions. Drain; rinse under cold
water. Add noodles and warm broccoli
to kale and toss to coat. Divide among
bowls and top with mint, sesame seeds,
and more scallions.
 LI D AY
HO

L
S PE C IA

The New
Essentials
It used to be that
every home needed
a percolator and
some ne china.
Times have changed.
Here, our staff
picks for the
cutting-edge, super-
useful, gorgeous
gifts that food
lovers need now
m ar ket edi tor
M O N I C A K H E M S U R OV

CLIPS
$24 FOR 24
Are we really telling
you to give bag clips
for the holidays?
RIBBON ILLUSTRATION BY GEORGE WYLESOL

You bet. Theyre

indispensable
stronger than
bargain brands and
chic enough that
they wont seem out
of place holding a
stack of papers. Bet
you cant use just
one. food52.com

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T E D C AVA N AU G H D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 2 7
G
I
F
T
S

NORDIC WARE
JUBILEE
BUNDT PAN, $40
A great cake
never goes out of
fashion, but that
doesnt mean the
Bundt pan couldnt
use a makeover.
This geometric
pattern will make
any cake seem
downright futuristic.
wayfair.com

2 8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
G
I
F
T
S
CHOCOLATE PANET TONE, $50
Roy Shvartzapel bends the laws of physics
to make a panettone so good it reduced
our food editors to gasps and groans.
Worth the price. thisisfromroy.com
CHEFS TOWEL, $18
Spun from European linen thatll soften over
time, this machine-washable kitchen towel
also ties around your waist like a half apron.
snowehome.com
WALTER, $475
Use this ceramic dispenser to house a water
filter. Unlike that filtered pitcher we keep
in our fridge, this one is so stylish its worth
leaving on the counter. walterfilter.com
STAINLESS STEEL ICE PACK, $16
Your teenage niece doesnt want an ice pack
in her stocking. But those who get excited
about freezer organizing will appreciate this
sleek nontoxic option. food52.com
MEDIUM PINK CASSEROLE POT, $90
Oven- and dishwasher-safe, Workaday
Handmades 1.5-quart stoneware crock
is just what youll want for serving warm
holiday sides. workadayhandmade.com
TUNDRA 35, $300
Big enough to hold 20 beer cans, tough
enough to be certified bear resistant (a real
thing), this industry-best cooler will please
tailgaters and outdoorsy types alike. yeti.com
ASH AND STONEWARE BOWL, $60
Bring the rustic restaurant trend home
with a speckled stoneware bowl 6" in
diameter. This ones glazed with ash from
a pizza oven. shop.herriottgrace.com
GRIDDLE, $200
Laid over a stovetop, its surface becomes a
plancha for searing steaks or smash burgers.
Chilled, it doubles as a cold plate beneath
platters of fresh fruit. bakingsteel.com
BE HOME MEASURING CUPS, $50
New rule: All measuring cups should have the
numbers etched on the side. (Printed numbers
rub off within a few washes.) These copper
cups should last for years. rodales.com
G
I
F
T
S

LIQUID BODY
FLASK, $60
Consider this
a cool (and
functional) update
of Grandpas flask.
To form its juice-
box-like shape,
welded sheets of
stainless steel are
inflated using water
pressure. The result
is a quirky 6-oz.
sipper that slides
easily in and out of
your back pocket.
areaware.com

3 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 C ontinues on page 36
G
I
F
T
S

TORIBE KITCHEN SHEARS, $50 KURO CUBE, $21

NO. 8 FIELD SKILLET, $100 KORIKO WEIGHTED SHAKING TINS, $17

Frankly we cant imagine a
kitchen drawer without a set of
shears like this Japanese stainless-
steel pair. Theyre essential for
everything from snipping herbs to
trimming meats to cutting twine.
canoeonline.net
Put a lump of coal in someones
stockingseriously. This charcoal
cube purifies air and absorbs
odors in refrigerators (or cars or
closets, for that matter) with style.
Save the baking soda for baking.
carbonbeauty.com
Just like its storied competitors, this
cast-iron skillet is nonstick, no-frills,
and amazingly versatile. But an
innovative production process that
uses less metal keeps it markedly
lighter and easy to manage.
fieldcompany.com
A cocktail shaker for the aspiring
mixologist in your family (or
a good hint that youd like a
margarita). The reinforced bottom
helps the two halves form a tight
seal and separate more easily
than most. cocktailkingdom.com

3 6 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
G
I
F
T
S

THE BON APPTIT

ARTISAN GIFT SET, $85
Buy a friend a years Bon
Apptit subscriptionor
renew your own!and
not just because its the
best magazine out there
(at least thats what our
moms tell us). This special
combo subscription
comes with an exclusive
denim apron we
designed with Hedley &
Bennett, the L.A.
company that outfits the
top chefs in the business.
Youll also get to do
some good10 percent
of the purchase price
goes to charity: water.
Is it still self-promotion if
were really excited
about this one?
bonappetit.com/gift

PROP STYLING BY ALEX SILVA

3 8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
G
I
F
T
S

MINNERS CLASSIC
NICK & NORA
GLASSES,
$54 FOR SIX
For those who want
a cocktail glass
that isnt an angular,
guaranteed-to-spill
martini glass or
STACKING GLASSES, the now-ubiquitous
$12 EACH coupe, comes this
These stackable new (old) design,
glassesmade of the made famous in the
same hardy glass 30s and 40s. The
used to create test- elegant Nick & Nora
CAN GLASS, $4
tube beakersare a feels fresh and retro
at the same time. Glasses like these are
good fit for a bar cart. popping up in our
shopburkelman.com williams-sonoma.com
favorite coffee shops.
The shape echoes
a soda or beer can
(but also holds our
cold brew just fine,
thank you very much).
crateandbarrel.com
G
I
F
T
S

GFUSION PET TY
UTILITY KNIFE, $190
We find ourselves
reaching for a petty
knife as much as, if not
more often than, the
beloved chefs knife.
The 5" blade is agile
enough to trim delicate
veggies and sturdy
enough to bone out a
chicken. It strikes the
perfect balance
between power and
grace. Sharp, huh?
newwestknifeworks.com
G
I
F
T
S
JOHN JULIAN FOR MARCH
STONEWARE MUG, $35 EACH
A timeless mug just begging for a fireplace,
a hot tea, and a book. Fired at a super-high
temperature, its very durable. marchsf.com
SUNTORY WHISKY TOKI, $45
For the whiskey lover whos drank his way
through Kentucky, try Japanese whisky. This
blend from a pioneering Japanese distiller
is a gateway to that world. astorwines.com
MICHAEL VERHEYDEN VASE, $225
On the heels of our delicate bud vase
phase comes this 14"-tall statement vase
a hefty concrete vessel ideal for showing
off dramatic branches. marchsf.com
4 4 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
OT TOMATIC, $350
This automatic Chemex has temperature
control and a spray spout for even water
dispersion. Its pour-over for those who
like to hit snooze. chemexcoffeemaker.com
ESCALI ARTI 15 LB. MULTIPURPOSE
DIGITAL FOOD SCALE, $35
Weigh flour with precisiona must for
serious bakers. We love its big, easy-to-
read screen. bedbathandbeyond.com
WOLF TOASTER, $400
A toaster that browns breads evenly? That
can handle bagel halves and thin slices of
health bread? And has bold red knobs to
boot? Put a bow on it! subzero-wolf.com
WILD THYME FLOWERS, $11
Spark life into any spice rack with these
Greek thyme buds (that taste like a flowery
oregano). Try them in marinades or make
your own herbal tea. daphnisandchloe.com
CHEFS JACKET, $145
The team that makes aprons for La Vara in
NYC released this easy-moving jacket, ideal
for those who work at restaurants (and those
who eat at them). jonesofboerumhill.com
FRUITCAKE BAR, $10
Even those who feel meh about fruitcake
will be into these fruitcake-inspired candies
white or bittersweet chocolate enrobing
dried fruits and nuts. valerieconfections.com
G
I
F
T
S

STAGG POUR
OVER KET TLE,
$80
For the coffee
fanatic on your list
comes this slow-
pouring kettle with
a thermometer,
ensuring that her
cup of single-origin
brew turns out right
every time. fellow
products.com
G
I
F
T
S

FLAT SAUT SET, $29 FOR THREE KNOB SPICE GRINDER, $60

Wooden spoons and rubber
spatulas have met their match. Our
test kitchen uses these hardwood
scrapers for stirring onions, scraping
up browned bits, and more. The
beveled edge lets you really get into
corners. earlywooddesigns.com
Traditional knife blocks can dull
your blades over time as you
slide them in and out. That wont
be a problem with this wooden
magnetic wedge that holds blades
on either side without friction.
food52.com
Whole spices have a longer
shelf life than ground. Use the
detachable base of this modern
beech-wood grinder to catch
spices for easy measuring, or fill
it up with salt for an impromptu
pinch bowl. umbrashift.com
If you want to mix an aromatic
Mojito or julep, these heavy,
sleek solid-wood muddlers are
key to extracting essential oils
from herbs and fruits. Theyre long
enough to reach the bottom of
your tallest glass. mavensd.com

MAGNETIC WOOD KNIFE BLOCK, $120 FACTURE GOODS MUDDLER, $30 EACH
G
I
F
T
S

2S WOODFIRED
OVEN, $300
Charred Neapolitan-
style pizza at home?
For those who havent
quite gotten around
to building that
backyard pizza oven,
theres the low-profile
(just over 2') and
(relatively) low-cost
Uuni. It goes from
cold to a blistering
900 degrees in ten
minutes flat and runs
on environmentally
friendly (and easy-to-
store) compressed
wood pellets. uuni.net

PROP STYLING BY REBECCA BARTOSHESKY

5 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 LI D AY
HO

S PE C IA L

CRAN
ROYALE
P. 54

On the
Bubble
Four celebratory
cocktails that take
sparkle seriously
b y TA L I A B A I O C C H I
RIBBON ILLUSTRATIONS BY GEORGE WYLESOL

p h o t o g r a p h s b y M I C H A E L G R AY D O N + N I KO L E H E R R I O T T
food styling by SUE LI prop styling by KALEN KAMINSKI 53
 CHEERS / sparkling cocktails

S PA R K L I N G C R A N R OYA L E BUILD C H A M PA G N E
JULEP SYRUP Cook A SPRITZ COCKTAIL
Muddle 6 mint 6 thyme sprigs, Combine 1 oz. Combine 1 tsp.
leaves and oz. 1 cup fresh or Suze, 1 oz. club granulated sugar
simple syrup in frozen cranberries, soda, and 1 oz. or 1 sugar cube
a large goblet or cup sugar, and fresh orange juice and 35 dashes
julep cup. Add cup water in a in an ice-lled rocks bitters (such as
oz. cognac, 3 oz. small saucepan over glass. Stir gently to Angostura) in a
Champagne or dry low, swirling pan combine. Top with Champagne ute.
sparkling wine, occasionally, until 3 oz. Champagne Add a splash of
and 1 dash bitters sugar is dissolved or dry sparkling Champagne or
(such as Angostura). and cranberries wine; garnish with dry sparkling wine
Fill glass partway have released their an orange wheel and stir gently to
with crushed ice color, 1215 minutes and a sage sprig. combine. Pour in 4
and stir gently to (do not reduce Makes 1 oz. Champagne or
combine. Mound liquid). Strain into a dry sparkling wine,
more crushed ice heatproof measuring then garnish with a
on top and garnish glass; let cool (you long spiral lemon
with a mint sprig should have 4 oz.). zest. Makes 1
and a lemon twist. ASSEMBLY For each
Makes 1 cocktail, combine
1 oz. syrup, oz.
fresh lemon juice,
and oz. Campari
in an ice-lled
cocktail shaker.
Cover; shake
vigorously until
shaker is very cold, Skip the $$$
about 20 seconds. vintage bubbly for
Strain into a chilled cocktails. Go with
coupe glass; top with an affordable
3 oz. Champagne Champagne, cava,
or dry sparkling Prosecco, or other
wine; garnish with dry sparkler.
3 fresh cranberries
on a skewer.
Makes 4

5 4 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 CHEERS

UNDERTHE
MISTLETOE
PUNCH
P. 9 9

Pack a
Wallop
Punch your way
to a smashingly
good time
by T R I S TA N W I L L E Y

PUNCH MAKES the party.

Yes, the prime-rib roast
matters too, but no one ever
told an inappropriate joke
after eating meat. Punch is
also nothing if not practical:
Shaking individual cocktails
to-order is a chorefor
you and your guests. Punch
is the answer. Its so low-
maintenance youll forget its
even thereuntil your entire
guest list is gathered around
it. You could do the
traditional bowl-and-ladle
thing, but then you wouldnt
get to decorate your
dispenser all nice and pretty
(see Prep School, page 165,
for a few pointers). No
dispenser? Get one. We like
the Godinger Dublin Crystal
model ($70) from
bedbathandbeyond.com
(pictured). Just some advice:
This cranberry-vermouth-
sherry punch goes down
easy. Youve been warned.

5 6 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 CHEERS

Large and
T H E H O L I DAYS make
me feel extra generous, Champagne is

in Charge especially with my pours. the most common

While standard wine bottles wine in large format,
may be fine for evenings but a good wine
Whats better around the fire, they dont shop will usually
than a bottle of stock a few others.
cut it when Im trying to give Dont be too
wine? A bigger the gift of full glasses to my shy to ask!
bottle of wine family of 40 (and thats just
my dads side). Large-format
by M A R I S SA A . R O S S bottles are the best way
to get all your aunts feeling
good and still have some
left for yourself, but thats
only one perk of their size.
Large-format wines have
a lower percentage of air to
wine than standard bottles,
decreasing the risk of flaws.
But perhaps most important,
pouring wine from a large
format has the same effect
as putting on Mariah Careys
All I Want for Christmas
Is Youeveryones heart
bursts into confetti and the
festivities truly begin.

5 8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 CHEERS / snacks

Get the
Party
Started
Seedy, lighter-
than-air crackers.
Bubbly baked Crispy? Check.
cheese dip crowned Cheesy? Check.
Fancy looking but
with tangy pickled as easy to make
peppers. These as a PB&J? Check.
snacks are all These crackers
are gold.
it takes to kick off
a celebration
b y A N DY B A R AG H A N I

gently to adhere.
Brush with butter
and top with another
sheet, pressing gently
again; brush with
egg white. Sprinkle
half of cup
black and/or white
sesame seeds
and half of tsp.
smoked paprika
over phyllo; season
CHEESY with salt and pepper.
SESAME Scatter half of 2 oz.
PHYLLO BITES Gruyre, nely
Preheat oven to 375. grated, over top. Cut
Melt 4 Tbsp. into 2" squares. Bake
butter in a small crackers until golden
saucepan; let cool brown, 810 minutes.
slightly. Lightly beat Let cool on baking
1 room-temperature sheet 3 minutes
large egg white before serving. Using
in a small bowl. a fresh parchment-
Set out 6 sheets lined baking sheet,
thawed frozen repeat with remaining
phyllo pastry on a ingredients to make
work surface. Place a second batch.
1 sheet of phyllo on DO AHEAD:
a parchment-lined Crackers can be
baking sheet. Brush made 8 hours ahead.
lightly with butter; Store airtight at
top with another sheet room temperature.
of phyllo, pressing Makes about 84

6 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 CHEERS / snacks

This unholy
combo of melty
cheese and alliums
is so irresistible
youll probably burn
your mouth on
it twice. Beauty is
suffering.

BAKED
THREECHEESE
ONION DIP
WITH CHIVE AND
PEPERONCINI
P. 9 9

PICO
DE GALLO
VERDE
P. 9 9

Chances
are this will be
the only bowl of
fresh green things
anyone has been
served all month.
Virtue never tasted
so good.

6 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17

The Last European Christmas
With the United Kingdom going out on its own,
Marina OLoughlin finds a new place at the table
B
R O U G H T U P in Scotland,
with an Irish father and
Italian mother, Ive never
felt British Heinz 57
Varieties was the family
joke. And despite living
in England for years, its
painfully clear Im not English. The
UKs recent Brexit has left me feeling
more out on a limb. Who even am I? For
those of us who came up along with the
EU these past two decades, and who
have long been grateful for Englands
vibrant melting-pot heritage, the vote
is little short of jaw-dropping.
I always believed that my country
rejoiced in diversity, especially when it
came to eating. Even the traditional Brit-
ish Christmas dinner is a mongrel thing.
Theres turkey, of course, originally from
the Americas. Its trimmings: cranberry
sauce, also American; brussels sprouts
well, the clues in the name; bread sauce,
a carryover from medieval times and
none more English, but spiked with exotic
cloves. Christmas pudding, shimmering
with Sri Lankan cinnamon and reeling
from its thorough soaking in French
brandy. And roast spuds, obviously; each
year the mission to perfect them inten-
sified. How much rosemary? Olive oil or
goose fat? Eventually a mixture of the two
was declared potato perfection.
My family put its own spin on this
menu, and it was at Christmas that our
foreign roots came together in a joy-
ful collision. The meal kicked off with
brodo, homemade chicken broth that my
mother beefed up like a true Italian with
stock cubes. In its limpid depths bobbed
croutons, basically cubes of eggy French
toast, known forever as cretins. Noth-
ing came from supermarkets. All roasts
were ordered in advance from Vincents,
the local family butchers, a phrase Ive
always found a little sinister.
The least popular item was Dads
Irish spiced beef its meat crusted out-
side from a coating of weapons-grade
6 6 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
S E A S O N S R E A D I N G S
spicing: clove, nutmeg, mace, black pep-
per. The roast was lurid pink inside from
the virtually tasteless preserving ingre-
dient, saltpetera potentially poisonous
element used, among other things, for
gunpowder. This dish was eventually
christened Ralgex beef after the winter-
green-whiffy muscle-relief spray.
Wed pass round the after-dinner tor-
rone (Italian almond nougat, the most
tenaciously sticky item known to man)
andas a Scottish touchthe addictive
sugary fudge known as tablet. Occasion-
ally, Mum would make a torta Monteneg-
rina, a cake from her native La Spezia.
This was a complex construction of archi-
tectural intricacy: layers of alcohol-soaked
sponge interleaved with crema pastic-
cera, confectioners custard in chocolate
and vanilla, finished with Italian butter-
cream meringue. The idea of attacking
such a project still fills me with anxiety
to this day, but my mother carried it off
with unshowy aplomb. It was exquisite,
sultry, even better on subsequent days
when the custard stiffened and the sponge
collapsed under the weight of the booze.
My parents would serve all this to
various waifs and straysunlike todays
England, our doors were always
open. There were singers for
the Scottish Opera from Aus-
tralia and Russia, thousands of
miles from home, and religious-
maniac maiden godmothers who
imagined ecclesiastical skuldug-
gery from anyone wearing purple socks.
We were frequently up to 20 people at
the lion-footed oak table.
One year we decamped to a dilapi-
dated farm in the Tuscan countryside; we
could very easily, of coursethere was no
requirement for visas, something thats
now being threatened by a Europe thats
understandably provoked. These days,
with my father gone and my mother in no
way up to the labor required, we con-
gregate on the Isle of Bute in Scotland,
where one brother has an old farmhouse.
Many of our Pan-European traditions
remain: the clove-studded bread sauce,
the ancient recipe of stale loaves seethed
in milk flavored with bay and more cloves.
(This was something I found repugnant,
with its creamy, pasty consistency, until
one year I fell in love with it.) The brodo
with cretins, the vat of Nonnas pasta
saucea reductive description for some-
thing that takes all day to cookever-
bubbling for the children. But weve
never been tempted into replicating the
Ralgex beef, nor has anyone felt up to the
work required to make the Montenegrina.
Some things die; some things live on.
Brexitugly word, ugly situation
shines a light onto these family holidays
that helps me see them with new eyes.
As our current unelected government is
making some hugely alarming noises,
striking fear that we should name and
shame foreign workers and regulate
the number of students from overseas, it
makes me wonder: At what point during
genealogy does foreignness kick in?
Would my parents, in todays climate,
have even been allowed to stay? At the
time of writing, the insanely convoluted
mechanism to activate the actual sever-
ance hasnt been triggered, and
nobody, not least of which our
government, is clear on when, or
how, it will. It hangs over our
heads like a noose.
I dont know what a Brexit-
flavored Christmas would consist
of, stripped of its elements from else-
where. Ashes, I suspect. But the whole
thing has had at least one positive side
effect, a personal one. After years of not
knowing where I belong, not understand-
ing whether Im Guinness or Prosecco,
turkey and trimmings or torrone, I finally
know who I am. Whatever happens to
the rest of the UK, I amand will always
bea European.
Marina OLoughlin is the award-winning
restaurant critic for The Guardian.
 L I D AY
HO

S PE C IA L

Mail
Models
Thanks to the
Internet, you can
order fully
prepared heritage
meats from small
producers all over
the country. These
are the ones worth
cheating on your
butcher for
by ASHLEA HALPERN

SCHILTZ
FOODS WHOLE
SMOKED GOOSE
Schiltz, out of
South Dakota,
brines the birds
in brown sugar and
smokes them over
Already hickory chips.
smoked, you just Its decadentthink
need to heat duck confit meets
in a 350 oven pastrami. $82;
for an hour. schiltzfoods.com

69
 EATS / mail-order

Pat down with

olive oil,
rosemary, salt,
and pepper
before roasting
at 400 for
about an hour.

HERITAGE
FOODS USA
DORSET HORN
LEG OF LAMB
This meat from
Vermont arrives
uncooked; Dorset
Horn is richer than
other breeds, with
lots of marbling
inside and a grassy,
floral-sweet flavor.
$149; heritage
foodsusa.com

NORTHERN
WATERS
SMOKEHAUS
PORKETTA
An iconic Minnesota Fully cooked;
heat in a 425
gourmet market oven for about
rubs its Berkshire 40 minutes.
pork with tons
of parsley, garlic,
and fennel before
rolling and smoke -
roasting it. $65;
nwsmokehaus.com
 EATS / mail-order

PICERIE
BOULUD TOURTE
DE JAMBON
The flaky 12x5"
puff pastry contains
house -cured ham
in creamy
mushroom duxelles
with shallots.
Perfect for a
cocktail party. $99;
epicerieboulud.com

Warm in a
350 oven for
about
15 minutes.

7 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 EATS

One-Pot
Wonders
When the
in-laws show up
two days early
(We thought we
told you!), or
the kids come
Your white home with extra
rice called:
It wants to be
friends, these
first in line to soak low-investment,
up all that sweet,
salty, super-
high-return crowd
savory braising pleasers are your
liquid. ace in the hole
by C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

BRAISED
CHICKEN THIGHS
WITH SQUASH
AND MUSTARD
GREENS
P. 1 0 0

D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 7 7
 EATS / one -pot

Ladle
these briny
beans over some
fried bread, sprinkle
with feta, and
nobody will notice
that dinner is
meat-free.

NAVY BEAN
AND ESCAROLE
STEW WITH
FETA AND OLIVES
P. 1 0 0

7 8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
EATS
Holiday
THE BEGINNING
of the new year is the one
Escape time that I pass on a cheese
board. Hunks of Stilton
and great wedges of
How does Yotam cheddar along with crusty
Ottolenghi reset bread are such a feature
after a season of of the holiday season here
excess? With a in Britain. You can eat as
much cheese at the end of
brothy soup thats a meal as you typically
heavy on veg, would for an entire lunch! But
gluten-free, and come January, theres about
far from boring a week when I just cannot
face another cheese plate.
After this time of indulgence,
various recuperations are
required. A meal needs to
be assembled without going
shopping, for a start.
Leftover vegetables need to
ROOT
VEGETABLE
ZOODLE
SOUP WITH
BACON AND
BASIL OIL
P. 99
be used up, and the stocks
already in the freezer need
to be sought out. Meals
should provide comfort and
reassurance to both the body
and the bank account that
gentler times are ahead.
My answer to these needs
is a soup that does all this
while at the same time not
causing too much of a shock
to the system. Im a huge fan
of eating cold turkey but not
going cold turkey. So yes,
this soup is free of dairy and
gluten, and Ive restricted my
ingredients to things that are
always in my fridge in the
days after Christmas: carrots,
parsnips, turnips. (Feel free
to swap root vegetables in
or out, depending on what
you have around.) But I stir
in a basil-and-anchovy oil
that acts as an exciting little
avor bomb. And the broth
is imbued with salty bacon,
a caramelized connection
to excesses past.
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

The Second Coming of the Schnecken
Julia Kramer goes in search of her
great-grandmothers lost sticky bun recipe
I
W A S S I X years old when my
great-grandmother, Nano, died.
She was born in the small min-
ing town of Pittsburg, Kansas, to
immigrants from whats now
Lithuania, then moved to Spring-
field, Missouri, where my dad
grew up. For decades Ive heard my dad
talk about her schnecken, which she
baked for the Jewish high holidays. They
were like snowflakes, he told me. No
two were alike, even though they had the
same ingredients.
If my dad is to be believed, schnecken
are the ur-cinnamon buns: hockey puck
shaped dough spirals baked in pools of
butter and cinnamon sugar until the
exterior is so caramelized it crackles. But
my dads fascination is about more than
taste. This is a man whose only hobby is
researching the genealogy of our family,
and to him, the schnecken refer to a
Kramer family beyondbeforehis child-
hood. They are a link but also a
fluke: a yearly German-Jewish
tradition nestled among the fried
chicken and creamed-corn casse-
roles on which he was raised.
And yet, since Nanos death,
the family attitude toward her
schnecken recipe bordered on fatalist. In
2003 a friend of mine tried to make the
schnecken and failed, my aunt told me.
And hes been published in the New
Yorker. (Interpret at will.) Nanos recipe,
written on a note card preserved by my
aunt, was, as far as I could tell, inscruta-
ble. It called for 2 C warm potato water,
2 cubes yeastingredients I did not
even know how to find at a grocery store.
One line of the very brief instructions
simply read: Make the schnecken. And
of course, my aunt warned, there was the
problem of the schnecken spoon.
The measurements of the schnecken
recipe were written not in tablespoons or
teaspoons but in a unit Nano understood
as schnecken spoons. And at some point
late in her life, Nanos special metal
8 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
S E A S O N S R E A D I N G S
schnecken spoon went missing. The
schnecken, it is said by my father and his
two sisters gravely, were never the same.
Isnt there someone in the test kitchen
who could help you make the schnecken?
my dad has asked me monthly since
I started working at Bon Apptit. I finally
admitted that there was one person who
might be swayed to participate in a
schnecken project. A woman who baked
elaborate carrot cakes and deep-dish
apple pies on the weekends. Who fed a
fruitcake as though it were a child. A
genius recipe developer by the name of
Claire Saffitz, one of BAs food editors.
I casually mentioned my conundrum to
Claire, and she insisted that I send her the
recipe. A few weeks later my parents were
in town and came by to visit our test
kitchen. They looked on in amazement as
Claire pulled a tray of deep-golden buns
out of the oven. My mom couldnt stop
raving about the quantity of pecans that
Claire had used, claiming that
when Nano made them, she dot-
ted each one with a single nut.
My dad was speechless. He ate
three schnecken and thanked
Claire profusely.
I pressed my dad for the truth.
Did they actually taste the same?
He confessed that something wasnt
right. They should beharder. And Nano
would never have used that many pecans.
There was my dad in the test kitchen, eat-
ing schnecken for the first time in close to
three decades, but instead of a sense of
conclusion, the gulf between what the
schnecken tasted like now and how my
dad remembered them felt uncrossable.
Springfield, Missouri, has become a thing
of the past: Not a single relative of ours
still lives there. My dads childhood
appeared, to me, further away than ever.
I conferred with Claire. She made a few
adjustments to the recipe, and I decided it
was time to make the schnecken myself.
I started just as Nano had half a century
or so ago, by boiling a potato. I combined
the starchy water and the mash with yeast,
butter, sugar, and flour to create a sticky
dough. After it had doubled in size, I rolled
it out into a rectangle, brushed it with
melted butter, and dusted it with cinna-
mon sugar and a (restrained) sprinkle of
chopped pecans and golden raisins. I
rolled it all up into a long spiral and cut it
into 12 pieces. I had prepared the muffin
tins, placing what I imagined must be
a schnecken spoons worth of butter,
sugar, and cinnamon into each cup, plus
just one or two pecans out of respect to
Nano. Immediately after pulling the tin
from the oven, I inverted the pan, allowing
12 glossy, gooey schnecken to glide onto
the cooling rack. Just as my dad has
described it, no two were alike: Some were
more squat; some were more burnished.
In the course of this project, I used
every bowl in my comically small kitchen.
I started to wonder: Why did I care so
much about re-creating the schnecken
anyway? Was I hoping for my own fleeting
instant of schnecken-scented transcen-
dence? Did I really think the final product
was that amazing?
To answer that last question: No. But
maybe thats where Id gotten lost. Unlike
the recipes we test at BA, my goal in bak-
ing the schnecken wasnt to create some
best or otherwise canonical version of a
cinnamon roll. My obsession with the
schnecken was motivated by my (and
Claires) eagerness to take on involved
baking projects, but it stemmed from
something much more elemental. Yes, my
dad complained about the schneckens
less hard texture. But he was almost as
overjoyed by this whole process as he had
been the time he discovered a long-lost
relative in Israel. I had shared a piece of
my history with my colleagues. I had cod-
ified it for my own safekeeping. I had
continued the search for a Kramer family
beyondbeforethe one I knew.
For the Kramer family schnecken recipe,
go to bonappetit.com/schnecken
 LI D AY
H O

S PE C IA L

All Tied Up
Step 1: Make
a big batch
of stunning
confections.
Step 2: Wrap them
in the prettiest
packaging.
Step 3: Gift em
to everyone
you know
b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

Our sweet,
juicy jellies can
be layered together
in a rainbow of colors
and flavors. We walk
you through all of
the possibilities on
page 105.
FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.

BOOZY
GUMMY
CANDIES
P. 1 0 5

85
SWEE TS / edible gif ts

While the
chocolate is warm,
add toppings with
varying textures. We
like candied ginger,
crunchy pumpkin
seeds, and bee
pollen.

FREEFORM
CHOCOLATES
P. 1 0 2

FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.

SWEE TS / edible gif ts

SIMPLE
CHRISTMAS
COOKIES
P. 1 0 2

Get the
kids involved
with quirkier cookie
cutters; find cool cats,
lightning bolts, and
more at sweet
estelle.com.
 SWEE TS / edible gif ts

Send candies
in these luxe
containers
theyre gifts
in and of
themselves.

Worried about
meltage?
Cut parchment
squares to 6
slip between
sweets.

5
3

1 2 3 4 5 6
ACRYLIC C L E A R BOX E S GLOSSY BLACK ROUND TINS SQUARE SYURO
CANISTERS WITH BRUSHED COLLAPSIBLE WITH LIDS AC RYL I C B OX E S BOXES
These airtight GOLD LIDS GIFT BOXES Just a few gummies In smoky gray Stack up chocolates
containers show off Like jewelry A dark interior fit in these polished or clear, their in some Japanese
cookies you worked cases for all of those offsets the bright party favors in gold, rounded edges make keepsakes made of
so hard to decorate. gemlike boozy colors of our chic silver, black, and for a modern shiny brass, tin, or
$30 for a set of jellies. $5$13; treats. $4$20; white. $23$30 for candy dish. $10; copper. $28$120;
three; food52.com containerstore.com containerstore.com 24; papermart.com containerstore.com nalatanalata.com

9 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY DA N N Y K I M
 SWEE TS / cook like a pro

True Colors
In this age of from-
scratch everything,
pastry chefs are
Gentur si
replacing artificial com nim volum
food dyes with landi dita ece
prorp ore pre -
something a pers pedit
bit morenatural
by J U N O D E M E LO
rec i p e s b y J U L I A E V E R I S T

TURMERIC CABBAGE BEET RED

Natural dyes YELLOW BLUE FOOD DYE
work best in FOOD DYE FOOD DYE Bring 3 medium
royal icing Bring 4 tsp. ground Bring small head red beets, peeled,
(shown here) or
buttercream turmeric, cup of red cabbage, quartered, and
frosting, not cake sugar, and 2 cups coarsely chopped, 3 cups water to
batter. For more water to a boil and 3 cups water to a simmer in a small
tips, go to in a small saucepan a simmer in a medium saucepan over
bonappetit over medium-low; saucepan over medium-low; cook
.com/dyes cook, swirling pan medium-low; cook until beets have lost
occasionally, until until cabbage is soft their vibrant red color
liquid is reduced by and liquid is reduced and liquid is reduced
about half, 2530 by about a third, by about one-third,
minutes. Let dye 2025 minutes. 2530 minutes.
cool before using. Remove cabbage Remove beets
Makes about 1 cup with a slotted spoon. with a slotted spoon.
Add cup sugar Add cup sugar
to cabbage liquid to beet liquid and
and simmer, swirling simmer, swirling
pan occasionally, pan occasionally,
until very deep until very deep red
purple and reduced and reduced to
R E D N O . 40 and Blue to about 1 cup, about 1 cup, 1015
No. 1 arent invited to this 1015 minutes. minutes. Let dye
years cookie swap. These Let dye cool, then cool before using.
days our favorite bakeries stir in tsp. Makes about 1 cup
are skipping those artificial baking powder.
dyes in favor of homemade Makes about 1 cup
food colorings. At Smoke
Signals in Marshall, NC,
youll find Tara Jensens pies began making her own food
stenciled with roasted beet coloring to tint the frosting
and egg-yolk paste. In for baby-shower cakes.
FOR RESTAURANT INFORMATION, SEE SOURCEBOOK

Portland, OR, Kristen Murray Expectant mothers wanted

of BA Hot 10 winner
Murice puts pinkish-red
hibiscus tea in macarons.
And at Sea Biscuit Bakery in
Rockport, ME, Julia Everist
adds turmeric and red
cabbage to her icing (dont
worrythe small quantities
dont affect the taste).
Why use chemicals to
achieve what you can find in
nature? asks Everist, who
pink or blue, and it made
me cringe to use something
artificial. She also thinks
her vegetable pigments just
look better. Its hard to
control the color with store-
bought dyes, she says.
You end up with fire-engine
red or anemic pink. Natural
ones let you fine-tune. You
can get a dusty terra-cotta
or a robins-egg blue.

9 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 SWE E TS

How cool would

this look baked
in the geometric
pan from our
gift guide? See
page 28.

T H E K E Y to making a FRUITY RUM

good fruitcake is not to make BUNDT CAKE
a fruitcake. Forget about P. 10 2
that syrupy-sweet, hard-as-
a-brick loaf studded with
colors that dont even exist in
nature. Instead, start with
a straight-up delicious Bundt
cakethen add fruit. This
version begins with a riff on
a rum Bundt that my mom
made every year for her
work holiday party. I loved
this cake so much that when
I was ve, I started asking
for it for my birthday. (She

Have Your used imitation rum.) In

a nod to fruitcake, I soak
Fruitcake dried apricots and cherries
in (real) rum, infusing the
This decadent alcohol with flavor that
permeates the cake. A slice
Bundt cake goes beautifully with a cup of
defies the genres coffee at brunch or a glass
retro reputation of Champagne in the evening.
Its also great for a childs
b y R I C K M A RT I N EZ
birthday. (Just kidding!)

9 4 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17

Cleans Up Real Nice
Holiday feasts mean piles of dishes. Some cooks, like
Brooks Headley, find solace at the kitchen sink
I
L O V E D O I N G dishes. Always
have. As a housemate, as a boy-
friend, as a business owner.
Not too keen on putting the
air-dried plates away, but thats
a completely different skill
one that I have no desire, even
to this day, to acquire.
Leave me alone at my restaurant,
Superiority Burger, on a Tuesday when
we are closed to the public? Ill roast a
tray or two of russets and whip up a batch
of Marco Canoras two-ingredient gnocchi
for absolutely no reason except that I
want to. Ill make a colossal mess. And
later Ill do all the dishes in silence as the
tray of curvy wine-cork-size potato dump-
lings are safely hardening in the freezer,
soon to be dropped in Ziplocs and dis-
patched as post-service staff meals in the
weeks to come. But Ill never put the clean
dishes away. Ever. If the mound of pots
and pans crumples, it happens very late.
Or very early. The only audible witnesses
are the upstairs neighbors. Kablooey! In
a best-case scenario, my prep cooks and
sous-chef will arrive eager and enthusi-
astic Wednesday morning to be sucker
punched by a teetering Rube Goldberg
esque contraption that just barely held
the surface tension long enough to
remain upright overnight.
But the thing about doing dishes. Aye,
heres the rub. It requires a commitment,
FRANCY
An artist, effortless
in her ability to
completely turn a
MY TOP FIVE hillock of scorched
GREATEST aluminum into an
DISHWASHERS empty sink of truly
beautiful, gurgling,
OF ALL TIME, Enya-like soapy
IN NO waterglug glug
PARTICULAR swishglug glug
ORDER: swishsail away,
sail away.
9 6 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
S E A S O N S R E A D I N G S
a devotion, to getting the job done at any
cost. Dishwashing (often falsely and incor-
rectly viewed as a task relegated to the
bottom of the kitchen brigade) gives you
an intense sense of accomplishment. But
it also gives you a lot of time to think.
Man, a lot. And thats not always the eas-
iest thing to deal with.
Take, for example, an incident from
the beach-going months of this past year.
A print periodical (ahem, the same one
you are currently reading) claimed that
Superiority Burger was one of the 50 best
new restaurants in the country, a list
that would later be whittled down to ten.
Totally cool, yet weird for a number of
reasons. We dont have a public
bathroom. We sell no wine. All our
food is served on disposable paper
goods. It would seem to any logi-
cal person that our restaurant
would be completely disqualified
from such a contest.
Yet, as I hammered out a Denali of
crusty-mushroomed and celery-rooted
hotel pans during our dishwashers two-
week-long August vacation and literally
(in the true sense of the word) got all of
that stainless steel spic-and-span, I spent
the majority of that timethose hours
with an awful lot of time to thinkwell,
just wondering what would happen if we
made that final cut. Would we get expo-
nentially busier? Would our P&Ls mirac-
FAUSTINO DOM
Want 50 pounds Loved sweet
of alliums cooked potatoes, so much so
down into eight that his flesh turned
quarts of deeply slightly orange for a
caramelized onions bit, but a helluva
in a tilt skillet? And sanitation expert. It
whos gonna make was like no one in
sure that skillet is the group house had
so clean you could ever even used the
return it not just kitchen on his watch.
for store credit but Gleaming, spotless,
a full cash refund? transcendent.
ulously turn from red to black? Would a
supercool wealthy anarchist with a pen-
chant for vegetarian sandwiches drop a
big fat check on us so we could open up
eight more shops? Could I then afford to
hire a squadron of dishwashers with the
organizational skills of Martha Stewarts
assistants? Our social media captionist,
still lacking health insurance: Would she
get so pumped shed start writing even
better prose? I washed, and I thunk. It got
quite dark, then brightened up, then went
swirling back down into the air gap, post-
drain, and I fished out all of that creamed,
watery, vine-ripened goodness (by hand)
and chucked it into the closest trash can.
(If you havent guessed yet,
Superiority Burger didnt end
up making the cut.)
Thats why I pay my dish-
washer more than my cooks,
more than me. It takes skill and
some serious meditative Zen
to do that job. Because if I, the boss,
dont show up for work, its cool, the job
gets done, no sweat. If our dishwasher
cant make it in? Catastrophe, every time.
Complete chaos.
So this holiday season, as you are furi-
ously rubbing the animal or vegetable
(or mineral) fat away from those plastic
water cups that got carelessly dunked in
the same half-full sink as the turkey gib-
lets, remember the champions.
MELANIE CHRISTIAN
Not unlike myself, He spoke four
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK
she had no interest languages and
in putting away trained in mixed
the clean stuff from martial arts on
the rubber-coated his days off. He
wire rack on top declined to use the
of the Rubbermaid sidewalk, instead
mat. Broke many arriving to work
glass coffeepots walking in the bike
with her towers. lane. When he
And she didnt mopped, it was like
even drink coffee. performance art.
 RECIPES
CHEERS
Under-the-Mistletoe Punch
20 SERVINGS This recipe easily
scales down by half, or even all
the way to festive drinks for two.
S P I C E D SY R U P
1 cups raw sugar
3 Tbsp. allspice berries, cracked
2 Tbsp. whole cloves
2 3" cinnamon sticks
ASS E M B LY
1 750 ml bottle amontillado sherry
(preferably Lustau)
1 750 ml bottle dry vermouth
(preferably Dolin)
1 cups plus 1 Tbsp. cranberry
juice cocktail
1 cups plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Blood orange or navel orange
wheels, fir sprigs (optional),
cranberries, and cinnamon
sticks (for serving)
S P I C E D S Y R U P Bring raw sugar, allspice,
cloves, cinnamon, and 1 cups water
to a simmer in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Remove from heat and let
spices steep 10 minutes. Strain through
a fine-mesh sieve into a small measuring
glass or bowl (youll have 1 1 cups
syrup); let syrup cool. Cover and chill
until cold, at least 30 minutes.
D O A H E A D : Syrup can be made
1 month ahead. Keep chilled.
ASS E M B LY Stir spiced syrup, sherry,
vermouth, cranberry juice, and lemon juice
in a large pot or bowl.
If serving from a dispenser with a spigot,
line sides at the bottom with a row of
orange wheels and fill one-quarter full with
crushed ice to hold orange wheels against
sides. Create another layer of orange
wheels and add just enough ice to hold
them against sides. Repeat until dispenser
is full. Pour punch over ice and top with fir
sprigs, if desired. Serve punch in ice-filled
glasses garnished with cranberries,
cinnamon sticks, and orange wheels.
If serving in a punch bowl, add 4 cups
ice cubes to punch and stir until very cold,
about 1 minute. Remove ice with a slotted
spoon. Ladle into ice-filled glasses
garnished with cranberries, cinnamon
sticks, and orange wheels.
D O A H E A D : Punch (stirring in ice if
serving in a punch bowl) can be made
8 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
Baked Three-Cheese Onion
Dip with Chive and Peperoncini
8 SERVINGS When great dips get
together, its magic. This one boasts all
the beauty of a creamy onion dip
with the irresistible appeal of queso.
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt
8 oz. cream cheese,
room temperature
cup mayonnaise
2 tsp. cornstarch
4 oz. sharp white cheddar,
coarsely grated
(about 1 cup), divided
2 oz. Monterey Jack, coarsely
grated (about cup), divided
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
2 Tbsp. finely chopped peperoncini
Crackers and/or tortilla chips
(for serving)
Preheat oven to 375. Heat oil in a
medium skillet over medium. Cook onion,
stirring occasionally, until golden brown
and softened, 810 minutes; season
with salt. Let cool.
Pulse cream cheese and mayonnaise
in a food processor until smooth.
Toss cornstarch, cup cheddar, and
cup Monterey Jack in a medium bowl
to coat cheese. Mix in cream cheese
mixture and cooked onion; season with salt
and pepper. Scrape into a 1-qt. baking
dish and top with remaining cheddar
and Monterey Jack. Bake dip until golden
and bubbling, 2025 minutes. Let dip
cool 5 minutes, then top with chives and
peperoncini. Serve with crackers.
Pico de Gallo Verde
8 SERVINGS The lime juice and oil will
keep the avocado from turning brown,
but its a good idea to assemble this
right before you serve it.
4 medium Persian cucumbers,
finely chopped
1 avocado, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped,
plus cup finely
chopped celery leaves
2 scallions, green parts only,
thinly sliced
1 small poblano chile, seeds
removed, finely chopped
1 jalapeo, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely grated
cup finely chopped unsalted,
roasted pistachios
cup fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro
2 Tbsp. finely chopped mint
Olive oil (for drizzling)
Kosher salt
Tortilla chips or plantain chips
(for serving)
Toss cucumbers, avocado, celery and
celery leaves, scallions, poblano,
jalapeo, garlic, pistachios, lime juice,
cilantro, and mint in a large bowl.
(Mixture should be coated just enough to
look glossy.) Drizzle with oil, season
with salt, and toss again. Cover salsa and
chill 20 minutes before serving with chips.
EATS
Root Vegetable Zoodle Soup
with Bacon and Basil Oil
6 SERVINGS First of all, zoodle is a
made-up word for vegetables that have
been cut to look like noodles. Make this
vegetarian by substituting 8 oz. fresh
shiitake mushrooms in place of the bacon
and using a vegetable stock or water.
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
4 oz. hardwood-smoked bacon,
cut into " pieces
1 large red onion, halved through
root end, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
2 sprigs oregano
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
3 quarts low-sodium chicken broth
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 very large carrot, peeled,
spiralized using a medium blade
or cut into matchsticks
1 large parsnip, peeled, spiralized
using a medium blade or
cut into matchsticks
1 medium turnip, peeled,
spiralized using a medium blade
or cut into matchsticks
8 oz. brussels sprouts, trimmed,
thinly sliced
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets,
finely chopped (optional)
cup finely chopped basil
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large pot over
medium-high and cook bacon, stirring
occasionally, until brown and crisp,
57 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper
towels and let drain.
D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 9 9
 RECIPES
EATS CONTINUED
Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. fat in pot and
reduce heat to medium. Add onion and
cook, stirring occasionally, until browned
around the edges and softened, 810
minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring
constantly, until garlic is very fragrant,
about 1 minute. Return bacon to pot and
add oregano sprigs, thyme sprigs, bay
leaf, and broth. Bring soup to a simmer
and cook 15 minutes to allow flavors to
come together.
Taste soup and season with salt and
pepper; add carrot, parsnip, turnip,
and brussels sprouts and cook 3 minutes
(vegetables should be very al dente).
Remove from heat. Discard oregano
and thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Let
soup sit 5 minutes (vegetables will soften
a little more).
Meanwhile, combine anchovies (if
using), basil, lemon zest, and remaining
4 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl; season basil
oil with salt and pepper.
Divide soup among bowls; drizzle
with basil oil.
D O A H E A D : Soup can be made
3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
Navy Bean and Escarole
Stew with Feta and Olives
8 SERVINGS Theres no stock in this
wintry vegetarian stewit relies on the
starchy bean cooking liquid for its flavor
(which is a polite way of saying sorry,
but you cant use canned beans here
and get the same results).
1 head of garlic, cloves
separated, divided
6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided,
plus more for serving
1 medium onion, chopped
1 small fennel bulb, chopped
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes,
plus more for serving
2 bay leaves
2 cups dried navy beans,
soaked overnight, drained
8 oz. feta, preferably in brine,
brine reserved,
cheese crumbled
4 large sprigs basil,
plus leaves for serving
1 cup Castelvetrano olives,
pitted, torn
1 0 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
1 head of escarole, leaves
torn into 2" pieces
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
4 1"-thick slices country-style bread
Slice 1 garlic clove in half crosswise and
set aside; smash remaining garlic cloves
with the flat side of a chefs knife.
Heat 4 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven
or other heavy pot over medium. Cook
smashed garlic, stirring often, until golden,
about 5 minutes. Add onion and fennel
and season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring
often, until onion is translucent and fennel
and onion are browned around the
edges, 810 minutes. Add lemon zest,
rosemary, and tsp. red pepper flakes
and cook, stirring often, until rosemary is
very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add bay
leaves, beans, feta brine (if using;
anywhere between 1 cup is fine),
a couple generous pinches of salt, and
8 cups water and bring to a simmer.
Partially cover pot, reduce heat to low,
and gently simmer stew until beans are
creamy and tender all the way through,
6070 minutes.
Add basil sprigs and olives to stew,
then add escarole in batches, letting wilt
slightly before adding more; simmer just
until escarole is tender, about 3 minutes.
(If stew is too thick, add more water to
reach desired consistency.) Stir in lemon
juice; taste and season with more salt if
needed. Pluck out bay leaves; partially
cover pot and keep stew warm over low
while you make the toast.
Heat broiler. Drizzle 2 Tbsp. oil total
over both sides of bread and place on
a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt.
Broil until bread is golden and toasted,
about 2 minutes per side. Let cool slightly,
then rub with the cut sides of reserved
garlic clove.
To serve, slice toast in half and divide
among shallow bowls; ladle stew over.
Top with feta, basil leaves, and more red
pepper flakes and drizzle with oil.
D O A H E A D : Stew can be made 3 days
ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat
covered over low.
Braised Chicken Thighs with
Squash and Mustard Greens
8 SERVINGS Dont have an acorn squash?
Use butternut. Not into mustard greens?
Use kale, Swiss chard, or spinach.
4 lb. skin-on, bone-in chicken
thighs (about 12), patted dry
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
8 scallions, white and pale green
parts sliced into 1" pieces,
dark green parts thinly sliced
4 dried chiles de rbol
1 2" piece ginger, peeled,
thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
cup low-sodium soy sauce
3 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
2 cups low-sodium
chicken broth, divided
1 acorn squash, halved lengthwise,
seeds removed, sliced " thick
1 bunch mustard greens, tough
stems removed, leaves torn
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
Cooked white rice (for serving)
Lightly season chicken thighs all over with
salt and pepper. Heat vegetable oil in a
large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over
medium-high. Working in 2 batches and
pouring off all but 2 Tbsp. fat between
batches, cook chicken, skin side down,
until skin is browned and crisp, 810
minutes. Transfer to a plate, placing skin
side up (chicken will not be cooked
through at this point).
Cook white and pale green parts of
scallions, chiles, and ginger in same pot,
stirring often, until scallions and ginger are
golden, about 3 minutes. Add wine, bring
to a simmer, and cook until reduced to
about 3 Tbsp., 5 minutes. Add soy sauce,
brown sugar, sesame oil, and 1 cup broth
and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve
sugar. Return chicken to pot, placing
skin side up and overlapping if needed.
Partially cover pot, reduce heat, and
simmer until chicken is cooked through,
2530 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate.
Add squash and remaining 1 cup broth
to pot, pushing in chicken pieces so theyre
mostly submerged. Arrange greens on
top. Bring to a simmer, partially cover pot,
and cook until squash is barely fork-tender
and greens are wilted, 1012 minutes.
Uncover, increase heat to medium, and
continue to cook until liquid is reduced by
about two-thirds and has the consistency
of thin gravy, 1015 minutes.
Remove pot from heat and drizzle
vinegar over vegetables. Taste sauce; it
should be plenty salty, but season with
more salt if needed. Add chicken back to
pot, turning to coat in sauce, then scatter
dark green parts of scallions and sesame
seeds over top. Serve with rice.
D O A H E A D : Chicken can be braised
2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
Reheat covered over low.
 RECIPES
SWEE TS
Fruity Rum Bundt Cake
810 SERVINGS Flouring the fruit helps
keep it suspended throughout the batter,
and using a serrated knife guarantees
you wont squash or shred the slices.
cup chopped dried apricots
cup dried tart cherries
cup golden raisins
cup plus 2 Tbsp.
gold rum, divided
3 Tbsp. plus 3 cups all-purpose
flour, plus more for pan
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted
butter, room temperature,
plus more for pan
5 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. ground cloves
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 cups plus 2 Tbsp. (or more)
sour cream
2 cups raw sugar, plus more
for serving
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
7 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1 cup powdered sugar
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : 12-cup Bundt pan
Combine apricots, cherries, raisins,
and cup rum in a small bowl and let
sit 30 minutes to allow fruit to rehydrate.
Drain, reserving rum. Sprinkle fruit with
3 Tbsp. flour and toss to coat; set aside.
Preheat oven to 350. Thoroughly
butter pan, making sure to get into all the
curved or ridged places; dust pan
with flour (do this even if your pan has a
nonstick coating). Whisk baking powder,
salt, cloves, and 3 cups flour in a medium
bowl to combine. Whisk reserved rum,
oil, and 1 cups sour cream in another
medium bowl to combine.
Using an electric mixer on high speed,
beat 2 cups raw sugar and remaining
1 cup butter in a large bowl until light and
fluffy, about 4 minutes. Scrape in seeds
from vanilla bean; reserve pod for
another use. Add egg yolks and egg
one at a time, beating to blend after each
addition; beat until mixture is light
and very fluffy, about 4 minutes. Reduce
speed to low. Add dry ingredients in
3 additions, alternating with sour cream
mixture in 2 additions, beginning and
ending with dry ingredients. Fold in
reserved dried fruit. Scrape batter into
1 0 2 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
prepared pan; smooth top. Tap pan
firmly a few times on counter to force
batter into edges of pan.
Bake cake until golden brown and
a tester inserted into the center comes out
clean, 6070 minutes. Transfer pan
to a wire rack and let cake cool in pan
15 minutes. Invert cake onto a serving
plate; carefully remove pan and brush
warm cake with remaining 2 Tbsp. rum.
Let cool completely, about 3 hours.
Mix powdered sugar and remaining
2 Tbsp. sour cream in another small bowl,
thinning with more sour cream if desired
(the thinner the glaze, the further it will drip
down the sides of the cake), until smooth.
Drizzle glaze over cake, working along
the center of the top of the cake for even
coverage, and sprinkle with raw sugar.
Let sit 10 minutes for glaze to set before
slicing with a serrated knife.
D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked
1 day ahead. Do not glaze. Store loosely
covered at room temperature.
N O T E : To bake this cake in a 10-cup
Bundt pan, hold back 2 cups batter.
(It will make 8 cupcakes.) Cakes made
in decorative pans with fine details
will look better with powdered sugar
in lieu of the glaze.
Free-Form Chocolate Candies
MAKES ABOUT 30 Known as mendiants in
France, these adorned chocolate bites
are a holiday tradition. See Prep School,
page 168, for step-by-step visuals.
6 oz. semisweet or bittersweet
chocolate, melted, slightly cooled
Toppings as desired (such as pecan
halves; dried tart cherries; thinly
sliced dried figs; thinly sliced
candied ginger; puffed quinoa
or rice; salted, roasted pumpkin
seeds; bee pollen; flaky sea salt;
and/or demerara sugar)
Turn a rimmed baking sheet over and
place a sheet of parchment paper on top.
Spoon or pipe quarter-size mounds
of chocolate onto parchment, spacing
about 2" apart (you should have about
30). Using a small offset spatula or the
back of a spoon, spread outward in a
circular motion to make silver-dollar-size
disks. Top as desired. (You dont need
to use all the toppings on every disk.)
Chill until cold and set, 3035 minutes.
Carefully peel candies off of parchment
just before serving.
D O A H E A D : Candies can be made
4 days ahead. Keep chilled.
Simple Christmas Cookies
MAKES ABOUT 24 A super-easy, no-mixer-
needed cookie dough that doesnt dirty
any bowls and leaves plenty of time
for the fun stuffbaking, decorating,
and eating dough scraps, of course.
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter,
cut into pieces, chilled
cup granulated sugar
cup (packed) light brown sugar
2 large egg yolks
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. ground ginger
tsp. ground cardamom,
cloves, or nutmeg
tsp. baking powder
2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose
flour, plus more for surface
Colored sanding sugars or royal
icing (optional; for decorating)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Assorted
cookie cutters
Process butter in a food processor until
smooth. Add granulated sugar and brown
sugar and process until thoroughly blended
into butter, about 1 minute. Add egg yolks
and vanilla; process until mixture is smooth
and looks glossy, about 30 seconds. Add
salt, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, baking
powder, and 2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. flour;
pulse until dough comes together around
the blade. Turn out onto a work surface
and knead a couple of times to incorporate
any floury bits. Divide dough in half; pat
into two "-thick disks. Wrap in plastic and
chill until firm, 4560 minutes.
Let dough sit 5 minutes at room
temperature to soften slightly.
Preheat oven to 350. Working with
1 disk at a time, roll out dough on a lightly
floured surface to " thick. Punch out
cookies with cookie cutters and transfer
to parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing
at least 1" apart. Sprinkle with sanding
sugar, if using, and press in lightly to
adhere. Gather up scraps and reroll once.
Chill cookies on baking sheets until firm,
510 minutes, then bake until edges are
golden brown, 1218 minutes. Let cool
5 minutes on baking sheet; transfer to
a wire rack and let cool completely.
If using royal icing, decorate cooled
cookies and let dry 2 hours.
D O A H E A D : Dough can be made
1 month ahead; freeze instead of chilling.
Cookies can be baked 2 weeks ahead
(do not decorate with royal icing); place
in airtight container and freeze.
 RECIPES

SWEE TS CONTINUED

Boozy Grapefruit-Pomegranate
Gummy Candies
MAKES ABOUT 32 Left unadorned, these

look like precious gems, or they can be

transformed into sparkly crunchy treats
by tossing in coarse sugar before serving.
Gummy

G R A P E F R U I T L AY E R
cup fresh grapefruit juice
Logic
The base recipe for these
cup honey or light agave nectar candies makes two-tone
3 Tbsp. Campari pink-and-red jellies.
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice But you can sub in different
2 Tbsp. unflavored powdered gelatin liquids and liquors to
make the other pretty (and
P OM E G R A N AT E L AY E R tasty) combinations seen
on our cover and on p. 85.
cup pomegranate juice
Start with cup juice, tea,
cup honey or light agave nectar or coffee, plus 13 Tbsp.
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice spirit or cordial (to taste).
1 Tbsp. Grand Marnier If needed, sweeten
2 Tbsp. unflavored powdered gelatin mixture with up to cup
Sanding sugar honey or agave nectar,
(for serving; optional) add 12 Tbsp. fresh
lemon juice to brighten,
and then follow the recipe
G R A P E F R U I T L AY E R Combine grapefruit method (left). Replace the
juice, honey, Campari, and lemon juice in booze with extra juice
a small saucepan. Sprinkle gelatin evenly if kids are on the guest list.
over and let sit until gelatin is softened, Below, our favorite
1015 minutes. Cook over medium-low, flavorful hues:
stirring constantly, until gelatin is dissolved CLEAR
and mixture is translucent with no visible Coconut water
granules, about 4 minutes (do not boil). +
Clear rum
Strain into an 8 x 4 " loaf pan; chill
until firm, 3040 minutes. B RO W N
Cold-brew coffee
P OM E G R A N AT E L AY E R While grapefruit +
Amaretto
layer is chilling, combine pomegranate
juice, honey, lemon juice, and Grand ORANGE
Marnier in a small saucepan. Sprinkle Fresh orange juice
gelatin evenly over and let sit until +
Dry curaao
gelatin is softened, 10 15 minutes.
Cook over medium-low, stirring GOLD*
constantly, until gelatin is dissolved and Green mint tea
mixture is translucent with no visible +
Branca Menta
granules, about 4 minutes (do not boil).
Let mixture cool slightly, then strain over YELLOW
set grapefruit layer and cover with Green apple juice
plastic wrap. Chill gummy mixture until +
Limoncello
completely set, at least 3 hours.
Run a small offset spatula around GREEN*
sides of pan to loosen candy, then Lime juice
gently peel away candy from bottom +
Midori
(be careful not to tear it). Cut into 1"
cubes or punch out into desired shapes PURPLE

with canap or small cookie cutters. Red grape juice

+
Toss candies in sanding sugar, if Crme de cassis
desired, just before serving.
*Dont sugar the gold or
D O A H E A D : Candies can be made green gummies; the coating
4 days ahead. Keep chilled. Cut just will liquefy on contact.
before serving.
 by
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
photographs by
PEDEN + MUNK
STEAK AU
POIVRE
P. 115

10 9

The Los Angelesbased French-born chef is starring in
the new season of The Mind of a Chef for PBS, and a
second location of his fried chicken joint, LudoBird,
recently opened. Thats in addition to running Trois Mec
and Petit Trois, his acclaimed L.A. restaurants.
But up in the mountains above Lake Tahoe with his
wife of 17 years, Krissy, and their ve-year-old twins,
Rve and Luca, hes focused on the task at hand: cooking
the perfect steak au poivre. Ludo explains there is a right
way and a wrong way to cook steak, and his is right.
You make sure your ame is very high all the time, he
instructs, then splashes more cognac than seems advis-
able into the pan. Flames leap to the ceiling of the
wooden A-frame ski rental. He looks pleased.
Ludo, Krissy, and the kids have escaped the frenzy in
L.A. to spend the holidays skiing, cooking, and eating.
After a breakfast of crepes, Ludos preparing a French
feast: fondue, escargot, coq au vin, and that steak au
poivre. (Yes, hes showing off for the cameraand us.)
The kids have been in the snow and are hungry.
110
Its important for me to cook this food for my kids, to
give them the memory, he explains. This is the food I
was raised on and the food I like now. Krissy and Ludo
both grew up skiing with family over the holidayshe in
the French Alps, she in Colorado, where shes fromand
they want to pass that tradition to Luca and Rve.
This year Ludo is marking his 20th year of living and
cooking in the United Statesall of it in Los Angeles. But
dont let the tattoos fool youLudo is an old-school TO CL ASSIC STEAK AU P OIVRE (P. 115); LUDO PREPS
French chef to the core. He cut his teeth in the most
demanding kitchens in France. Thirty years ago we had
ABOVE: COGNAC ADDS FL AVOR (AND FL AMES)
CREPES (P. 118) AS SON LUCA SNEAKS A PEEK.
no choice but to get abused, no choice but to suffer, he
says with equal parts pride and remorse.
Despite this training, Ludo admits that time and kids
have softened his attitude in the kitchen. I try to be more
gentle. He cooks with Rve and Luca on many Sundays,
just as his mother did with him. We bake a cake or roast
something, most of the time chicken, he says.
The inuence of parenthood is on display in the food
hes cooking nowall French, yes, but with concessions
to his kids tastes and the ingredients available on a
mountainside. The cheese Luca is tearing into tiny pieces?
Its Babybel. The ham is Oscar Mayer. The supermarket
baguette is denitely pas bien cuit. He scans the ingredi-
ents and shrugs: When you go away with kids, its about
what they want to eat. Hes unconcerned since around
the holidays, Its about spending time with family.
Despite this laissez-faire attitude, there are hints of the
uncompromising and irrepressible French chef. Ludo
opens the fridge and pulls out butter to baste the steak.
Its French, and he slathers it on with abandon.
 CHEESE
FONDUE
WITH
BEER AND
BOURBON
P. 118
 MILK
CHOCOLATE
SAUCE
P. 119
 BASIC
CREPES
P. 118

SUZET TE
SAUCE
P. 119
 GOLDEN
POTATO CAKE

114
Escargot with
Garlic-Parsley Butter
4 SERVINGS Sadly, youre not going
to be able to waltz down to the corner
store and pick up escargots and shells.
We ordered Lefebvres brand of choice,
Saveurs, along with the shells, from
amazon.com. The dish is worth the wait.
1 cup (2 sticks) European-style
butter, room temperature
1 Tbsp. dry white wine
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of ground nutmeg
12 garlic cloves, very finely
chopped
1 large shallot, finely chopped
cup finely chopped parsley
24 large empty escargots shells
24 extra-large canned escargots,
preferably from Burgundy
Preheat oven to 450. Using an electric
mixer on medium, beat butter in a medium
bowl until smooth. With motor off, add
wine, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then beat
on medium until incorporated. Reduce
speed to low and add garlic, shallot,
and parsley; mix just until incorporated.
Transfer butter to a disposable pastry bag
or a resealable plastic bag and snip
off end (or 1 corner if using plastic bag).
Place shells in a single layer in a
shallow 2-qt. baking dish and pipe
about 2 tsp. garlic-parsley butter into
each. Tuck a snail inside each shell, then
pipe in more garlic-parsley butter to fill
shell and mound over top. Bake until
snails are sizzling and garlic in butter no
longer tastes raw, 1015 minutes.
D O A H E A D : Shells can be filled 1 day
ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room
temperature before baking.
Golden Potato Cake
4 SERVINGS Its not about the potatoes
its what you do to the potatoes. In this
case, precook them until theyre tender,
then dispatch clarified butter (which is
less likely to burn), heat, and time to help
them become their best selves.
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
or 6 Tbsp. ghee
2 lb. small russet potatoes, peeled,
very thinly sliced
Flaky sea salt
Freshly ground white or black
pepper
Preheat oven to 400. If using unsalted
butter, heat in a small saucepan over
medium, skimming off white foam that rises
to the surface, until butter is melted and
milk solids have settled to the bottom
of the pan. Spoon clear (clarified) butter
into a small bowl. Discard milk solids.
Heat 1 Tbsp. clarified butter (or ghee)
in a medium skillet, preferably ovenproof
nonstick or cast iron (you will need to
cover it; use a baking sheet if you dont
have a lid), over medium-high and add
half of potatoes, tossing to separate
slices and coat in butter. Cook, tossing
often, until some of the slices are
browned around the edges, about
5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
Repeat with another 1 Tbsp. butter and
remaining potatoes; transfer to same
bowl. Let cool slightly.
Arrange some potato slices in an
overlapping pattern in a single layer in
bottom of skillet. Season with salt and
pepper and drizzle with some of the
remaining clarified butter. Repeat with
remaining potatoes, building a layer at a
time, seasoning with salt and pepper and
drizzling with clarified butter as you go.
When you are finished layering the
potatoes, pour any remaining clarified
butter over top and cover skillet.
Cook potatoes over low heat until
barely tender, 1015 minutes. Uncover
skillet and transfer to oven. Bake until
potatoes are very tender in the middle
(if you have a cake tester, thats a good
way to check, or use the tip of a paring
knife) and browned and crisp around the
edges, 2530 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Slide a rubber spatula underneath
potato cake to loosen, then invert onto
a platter. Season with more salt.
D O A H E A D : Potato cake can be made
3 hours ahead. Leave in skillet at
room temperature. Reheat at 350 for
10 minutes before serving.
Steak au Poivre
4 SERVINGS When you flamb the
cognac, make sure your pan is really hot
and your eyebrows are out of the way.
2 1 "-thick boneless rib eyes
(about 14 oz. each)
5 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil,
divided
Kosher salt
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
1 large shallot, finely chopped
cup plus 2 Tbsp. cognac
1 cup heavy cream
2 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. green peppercorns in brine
4 garlic cloves, crushed
4 small sprigs rosemary; plus more
for serving (optional)
Rub steaks all over with 1 Tbsp. oil and
season generously with salt. Heat
2 Tbsp. oil and 1 Tbsp. butter in a medium
saucepan over medium-low. Cook shallot,
stirring often, until golden brown, 1015
minutes. Remove from heat and carefully
add cup cognac. Bring mixture to
a simmer over medium-low heat and
cook, stirring occasionally, until cognac
is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Stir
in cream and black pepper and bring
to a simmer. Cook, swirling occasionally,
until cream is slightly thickened, about
5 minutes; let cool slightly.
Transfer mixture to a blender and
blend until smooth (or use an immersion
blender directly in the pot). Add green
peppercorns and pulse just to break up
(do not blend completely). Return pepper
sauce to saucepan; season with salt.
Cover and set aside.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large
cast-iron skillet over high. Add steaks and
cook, occasionally lifting steaks to allow
hot oil to flow underneath, until a brown
crust forms underneath, about 4 minutes.
Turn steaks and cook until crust forms
on the other side and an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest part
registers 125 for medium-rare, about 4
minutes. Transfer steaks to a cutting board
and let rest 10 minutes. Reserve skillet.
Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. fat from skillet
and return to medium-high heat. Place
steaks, garlic, rosemary, and remaining
2 Tbsp. butter in skillet and cook, basting
steaks with butter and turning halfway
through, until butter is very fragrant and
golden brown, about 1 minute. Increase
heat to high. Lean safely away from pan,
add remaining 2 Tbsp. cognac, and
immediately tilt skillet toward flame to
ignite cognac (if you have an electric
stove or cognac doesnt ignite, its okay).
Cook, carefully shaking skillet, until flames
die out, about 30 seconds. Transfer
steaks back to cutting board and let rest
10 minutes.
While the steaks are resting, reheat
pepper sauce over medium-low heat,
stirring constantly, until warmed through.
Slice steak and spoon pepper sauce
over top. Garnish with more rosemary
sprigs if desired.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COQ AU VIN (P. 118); READY, SET, FAMILY SNOWBALL FIGHT!; ESCARGOT WITH
GARLICPARSLEY BUT TER (P. 115); RVE RISES AND SHINES DOWNSTAIRS FOR DADS CREPES.
 GARLIC
SOUP WITH
POTATOES
AND
POACHED
EGGS
P. 119
Coq au Vin with
Cocoa Powder
4 SERVINGS Youve heard it before:
You cant rush a good braise. Take your
time browning the chicken and mushrooms
and building the velvety sauce.
1 3 4-lb. chicken, cut into
8 pieces (legs and thighs
separated, breasts halved)
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, peeled, chopped
1 bunch thyme
2 bay leaves
1 750 ml bottle red wine, preferably
Cte du Rhne
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
5 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into "
pieces
8 oz. button mushrooms, halved
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
8 oz. pearl onions, peeled
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
Season chicken all over with salt and
pepper. Place in a large bowl and add
yellow onion, carrot, thyme, bay leaves,
and wine. Cover and chill, turning
chicken once or twice, at least 1 day
and up to 2 days.
Remove chicken from marinade
(do not discard) and pat dry with paper
towels; pluck off any aromatics still
stuck to chicken. Strain marinade through
a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl
and set infused wine and aromatics
aside separately.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil and 1 Tbsp. butter in a
large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over
medium. Add bacon and cook, stirring
often, until brown and crisp, 58 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a
medium bowl.
Arrange chicken, skin side down, in
a single layer in same pot and cook until
skin is browned, 810 minutes. Transfer
to a plate and arrange skin side up.
Pour off all but 3 Tbsp. fat from pot and
increase heat to medium-high; reserve
fat for another use. Add mushrooms and
cook, tossing often and adding a splash
of infused wine if bits stuck to bottom
of pot are getting too dark, until browned
and tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer
mushrooms to bowl with bacon.
If bottom of pot is dry, add a
tablespoon or so reserved fat and cook
reserved aromatics, stirring often, until
118
vegetables are soft and browned around
the edges, 810 minutes. Sprinkle flour
over top and cook, stirring, until flour is
no longer visible. Return chicken to pot,
arranging skin side up in a single layer,
and pour in reserved infused wine (it
should come just to the top of the chicken
pieces; add water to get it there if
needed). Bring liquid to a gentle simmer,
partially cover pot, and cook chicken until
an instant-read thermometer inserted into
the thickest part of breast registers 160,
3040 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp.
oil and 1 Tbsp. butter in a medium skillet
over medium. Add pearl onions, season
with salt, and cook, shaking skillet often,
until onions are browned all over, 810
minutes. Add water to barely cover onions
and partially cover skillet. Bring to a boil,
reduce heat, and simmer until onions
are tender all the way through, 1520
minutes; set aside.
Transfer chicken to a platter and tent
with foil. Strain braising liquid through a
fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl; discard
solids. Return liquid to pot and set over
medium heat. Whisk vinegar, cocoa, and
3 Tbsp. braising liquid in a small bowl until
smooth, then stir into braising liquid in pot.
Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring
occasionally, until sauce is slightly
thickened and silky smooth, 510 minutes.
Add pearl onions with cooking liquid and
reserved bacon and mushrooms and cook
until just heated through. Add chicken
back to pot.
Cheese Fondue with
Beer and Bourbon
4 SERVINGS Ah, Babybel cheese, the
fancy French chefs secret weapon
for fondueit keeps the molten mixture
from separating, and its unassuming
flavor lets the Gruyre shine.
2 garlic cloves, halved lengthwise
cup Belgian beer (such as Duvel)
2 cups dry white wine, divided
3 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 lb. Gruyre, coarsely grated
1 lb. Babybel cheese, grated
2 Tbsp. bourbon or brandy
tsp. baking soda
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
4 cups 1" pieces country-style
bread, preferably day-old
Assorted ham and salumi, pickles,
and crudits (for serving)
Rub inside of a large saucepan with cut
sides of garlic. Finely grate garlic into
saucepan; add beer and 1 cups wine
and bring to a boil over medium heat.
Whisk cornstarch and remaining cup
wine in a small bowl until no lumps
remain, then whisk into liquid in saucepan.
Bring to a boil, whisking constantly, then
reduce heat so mixture is at a very low
simmer and very gradually add Gruyre
and Babybel, whisking until smooth
(fully incorporate each batch of cheese
before adding more).
Whisk bourbon and baking soda in a
small bowl to combine, then whisk into
fondue, followed by lemon juice; season
with salt. Transfer to a fondue pot and
serve with bread, ham, salumi, pickles,
and crudits for dipping.
Basic Crepes
MAKES ABOUT 20 This makes a lot of
crepes. You can halve the recipe if that
makes more sense for you, or keep it
as is and have crepes two days in a row.
4 large eggs, room temperature
2 cups whole milk
cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
tsp. kosher salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
Suzette Sauce and Milk Chocolate
Sauce (see recipes), whipped
cream, and/or jam (for serving)
Blend eggs, milk, sugar, and vanilla in
a blender until smooth and frothy. Add
flour and salt and blend just to combine.
Cover batter and chill at least 1 hour.
Heat a medium nonstick skillet over
medium-high, then brush with butter. Ladle
about cup batter into skillet and swirl
to evenly coat bottom. Cook crepe until
bubbles form on surface and edges are
golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Slide
a spatula underneath crepe to loosen and
carefully flip. Cook on the other side until
a few brown spots appear, about
15 seconds, then transfer to a plate. Tent
with foil to keep warm while you cook
remaining crepes. Repeat with remaining
butter and batter.
Serve crepes with Suzette Sauce,
Milk Chocolate Sauce, whipped cream,
and/or jam alongside.
D O A H E A D : Batter can be made
1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Stir gently
to reincorporate before cooking.
 Suzette Sauce
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUPS Great on crepes,
regular pancakes, waffles, and French
toast. Maple syrup can sit this one out.
cup fresh orange juice
cup sugar
2 Tbsp. Grand Marnier or other
orange liqueur
6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
tsp. kosher salt
Bring orange juice, sugar, and Grand
Marnier to a simmer in a large skillet
over medium heat, stirring until sugar
is melted. Add butter a piece at a time,
whisking until incorporated before
adding more; stir in salt. Continue to
gently simmer, swirling sauce often,
until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
Serve warm.
Milk Chocolate Sauce
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUPS Use dark
chocolate for a less sweet finish.
4 oz. milk chocolate, finely chopped
tsp. kosher salt
cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room
temperature
Place chocolate and salt in a medium
heatproof bowl. Heat cream in a small
saucepan just until steaming (do not bring
to a boil) and pour over chocolate. Let sit
PROP STYLING BY KENDRA SMOOT. FOR PRODUCT INFO AND RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
until chocolate is melted, about 5 minutes.
Add butter and whisk until butter is melted
and incorporated and mixture is smooth.
Serve warm.
Garlic Soup with Potatoes
and Poached Eggs
4 SERVINGS Whack the garlic cloves
with the side of a chefs knife; the
papery skins will loosen from the cloves
and you can slip them right off.
2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more
for serving
4 Tbsp. salted butter, divided
3 heads of garlic, cloves peeled
1 large leek, halved lengthwise,
very thinly sliced, dark green
parts reserved separately
1 Tbsp. thyme leaves
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (about 2
large), peeled, cut into 1" pieces
4 cups (or more) low-sodium
chicken broth
2 Tbsp. crme frache or sour
cream, room temperature
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white or black
pepper
4 large eggs, room temperature
2 Tbsp. parsley leaves with
tender stems
Finely grated lemon zest
(for serving)
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil and 2 Tbsp. butter in a
large saucepan over medium. Add garlic,
white and pale green parts of leek, and
thyme and cook, stirring often, until garlic A little nesse goes a
is softened, about 5 minutes (reduce heat
long way, and Ludo knows
if garlic starts to brown). Add potatoes
and 4 cups broth, bring to a simmer, when to tone it down.
and cook until potatoes are very tender, In the kitchen, Its all
2530 minutes. Let cool slightly, then about being gentle,
add crme frache. he says. Case in point:
Transfer soup to a blender (or use an He fawns over poached
immersion blender directly in saucepan)
and blend until very smooth; season with
eggs like theyre kittens.
salt and pepper. Transfer soup back to
saucepan and set aside. Respect tradition:
Pour water into another large saucepan The chef doesnt go for
to come 4" up sides and bring to a boil, newfangled cooking
then reduce heat so water is at a gentle
techniques: No sous vide,
simmer. Crack an egg into a small bowl,
then gently slide egg into water. Repeat please! If youre going
with remaining eggs, waiting until whites to cook something, cook it.
are opaque before adding the next Over a ame.
one (about 30 seconds apart). Poach
until whites are set but yolks are still runny, Work with what youve
about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer eggs to paper towels as they
got: Tahoe ski rentals
are done; season with salt and pepper. arent known for their
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. butter in tricked-out kitchens. As
a medium saucepan over medium. Add long as I have a sharp
reserved dark green parts of leek and knife I can do anything.
2 Tbsp. water and cook, stirring often,
until leeks are softened and very bright
green, about 2 minutes. Transfer leek Make it a family affair:
mixture to a platter and top with parsley Get everyone involved in
leaves and lemon zest. preparing a holiday feast.
Gently reheat reserved soup over Simple tasks like shredding
medium-low, thinning with more broth if cheese, peeling carrots,
needed; divide among bowls. Carefully
place a poached egg and some leek
and stirring sauces
mixture in the center of each bowl of soup are perfect for the kids.
and drizzle with oil.
D O A H E A D : Soup (without eggs and Be true to yourself: Ludo
toppings) can be made 2 days ahead; doesnt cook to impress
cover and chill. Eggs can be poached
critics these days. His
1 day ahead; place in a bowl of ice
water, cover, and chill. Reheat gently in style has gotten simpler.
simmering water 1 minute just before Im a little bit redneck.
serving with soup. Im from Burgundy!
 BY AMIEL STANEK AND CLAIRE SAFFITZ

NOSH
IN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

THE
N EW
YEAR
Amateurs go out on New Years Eve. Real ballers invite their A-Team
over, spread the table corner-to-corner with all manner of Russian-
Jewish delicaciessmoked fish, pickles, proper caviar service, all the
rye breadsand keep the ice-cold vodka flowing into January
 The years
almost over
time to go big
at home
 Small glasses for
vodka keep shots
reasonable and
the night long.
If all you have are
random souvenir
shooters, consider
picking up
something with
a stem.
 THERES AN ART TO ASSEMBLING A TRULY MEMORABLE NOSH.
Its not about cooking so much as it is sourcingcurating, if you willa spread
of delicacies that celebrates abundance and variety and keeps guests at the
table long after the ball drops. There will be no courses, no full plates, just an
endless series of infinitely customizable bites, cold vodka, and increasingly
rowdy toasts. This isn t a sit-down dinner party; its a sit-down party.

1
THE VODKA
Setting down a bottle thats been
frozen in a block of ice is dramatic,
sure, but its also practical: It keeps
the spirit ice-cold the whole night,
which mellows any, er, harshness.
The one rule? Make sure you dont
run out. A crowd can easily burn
through four or five bottles over the
course of a night.
THE CAVIAR
2
You dont need a Cayman Islands
bank account to serve it. The reality is
that the insane prices of imported eggs
from name-checkable fishthink
osetra, etc.correspond to rarity not
flavor. So unless youre a Russian
FREEZE FRAME oligarch, fill out your spread with the
kind of affordable roes you can buy a
lot of (salmon, trout) and a sampling
Take an empty half- of domestic black varieties. Sourcing is
gallon cardboard milk
key; we like Petrossian, the storied
carton and rinse well.
Unfold the top so Parisian caviar house, which sells the
that it opens upright delicacies below on its website.
with straight sides.

Place full bottle

GET BOTH PICK ONE
of vodka in center of
carton and fill with
water just to the base SALMON ROE CHATALUGA
of the neck; freeze Orange and soft with PRESTIGE
overnight. sweet, juicy beads, this While its not technically
is the stuff you want to caviarit comes
Once block is frozen eat by the heaping from wild domestic
solid, peel off carton spoonful. Leftovers are paddlefish, a close
and discard. Wrap great on chicken eggs. cousin of the sturgeon
a towel around the 500 g, $124 this shiny gray-green
neck of the bottle and roe is earthy and
place in an ice TROUT ROE irresistibly buttery.
bucket or on a plate. Ruddier and smaller 125 g, $241
than that of salmon,
Want to dress up trout eggs are firm, CLASSIC
your ice block? Weve punchy, and easy TRANSMONTANUS
got tips for freezing to love, with a CAVIAR
garnishes right into it distinctly briny bite. Funny name, seriously
in Prep School, p. 168. 250 g, $65 savory. It comes from
farm-raised California
white sturgeon and
boasts a clean, nutty
flavor thats a dead
HOW TO DRINK IT

This isnt a frat party: Pour half ringer for pricey

or quarter shots. There needs to be imported osetra.
125 g, $241
a toast associated with each shot
and a bite of herring, rye bread, or
something fermented to follow.
Chef Vitaly Paley, Headwaters, Portland, OR

123
 Dolloping caviar
with mother-of-
pearl spoons
looks cool, but if
you dont have
them, dont
sweat. Silver is
the only true no-
no (it affects the
flavor), so wood,
stainless steel,
and even plastic
spoons work well.
 3
Potato Blinis
THE VEHICLES 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes,
Buttery blinis are the ideal caviar scrubbed
base, but theyre not your only option.
3 large egg yolks,
Other store-bought bread choicesthink
squares of chewy rye bread and seedy
room temperature
crackersprovide contrast and untether 1 large egg, room temperature
you from the kitchen. cup sour cream, room
temperature
cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. finely ground black pepper

4 THE ACCOUTREMENTS
The beauty of caviar service is customization: An array of
tsp. baking soda
tsp. ground nutmeg
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted,
slightly cooled
creamy, herby, acidic, and oniony toppings allows guests to
build their perfect bites. These garnishes work for all the fishy
things on the table, so the possibilities are endless. S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A food mill or
potato ricer

Preheat oven to 425. Prick potatoes

CHOPPED RED ONION, CAPERS,
SLICED RADISHES, LEMON WEDGES,
DILL, CRME FRACHE, CHOPPED rimmed baking sheet until very tender
HARDBOILED EGG YOLK AND WHITE* and a knife slides easily through flesh,
*Egg whites and yolks pressed separately through
a sieve are classic, but too fine a sieve will turn
the egg to mush. Chopping with a knife is faster
and gives you control over the finished texture.
PICKLED
Briny herring fillets
are the move. Jewish
appetizing stores
should stock the intense
(and delicious!) salt-
cured kind, but most
supermarkets will have
more approachable
vinegar-pickled fillets.
all over with a fork and bake on a
6070 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Reduce oven temperature to 200.
Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks, egg,
and sour cream in a medium bowl to
combine; set sour cream mixture aside.
Cut potatoes in half lengthwise
and scoop flesh from skins; discard
skins. Pass flesh through food mill
or ricer fitted with the small-hole disk
into a large bowl. Working quickly,
sprinkle flour, salt, pepper, baking
soda, and nutmeg over potatoes;
toss lightly with a fork to distribute
ingredients, fluff potatoes, and break
up any clumps. Make a well in
the center and pour in reserved sour
cream mixture. Whisk in a circular
motion, working from the center out to

5
If youre not into COLD SMOKED
smoky, fatty, full- Supple and rich, cold incorporate, just until smooth (it should
flavored fish, then smoked fish is the most look like a thick pancake batter).
this probably isnt luxe thing on the table Cover; let sit 10 minutes.
your ideal night. next to the caviar. You Heat a large skillet, preferably
cant go wrong with
A proper nosh
lox, but super-tender
nonstick or cast iron, over medium-
wants at least one sturgeon and sable are low. Brush skillet with a thin layer of
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

item from each the bacon of the sea. butter. Spoon scant tablespoonfuls
category, but more of batter into skillet, spacing about
is, of course, more. HOT SMOKED 1" apart. Cook blinis until undersides
THE CANNED
Sprats! Sardines!
Serving sturdy whole
fish like trout, whitefish,
and mackerel makes
are golden brown and surfaces look
matte and bubbles form on top,
FISH Oysters! All tasty, just
make sure that what
youre buying is packed
for an impressive
presentation. Peel back
about 90 seconds. Gently flip and
cook until other sides are golden
the skin to reveal the
in oil. Serve straight flaky flesh, and be sure
brown, about 1 minute. Transfer to a
from the tin. to watch for bones. wire rack set inside a rimmed baking
sheet and keep warm until ready to
serve (up to 1 hour before). Repeat
THE PICKLES You want bracing ferments around to balance all with remaining batter, wiping out
that richness. And trust us: Nothing chases a shot like a clove of fizzy skillet between batches and brushing
6 pickled garlic. Brined green tomatoes, half-sour cukes, and
sauerkraut are standard, but we wouldnt say no to some kimchi.
with more butter. Makes about 30
125

For all of us, the holidays
loom large. On the calendar.
In the heart. So we scale up the
meal to match the importance
of the day. A turkey always
seems substantial. A dry-aged,
bone-in rib roast is unfailingly
weighty. Every good ham has
heft. This stuff is large. No
matter the size of the family,
we cook big. We give these
meals more.
More time. We call the
butcher to reserve our roast
weeks before, requesting that
he trim it just so. We tear new
recipes months in advance.
We scout the markets to find
a bin of hulled chestnuts or
an ample supply of baby bok
choy. The holidays take root
in moments like these.
More skill. The paper-thin
slicing of the Granny Smiths,
the drying of the homemade
bread crumbs, the proper
brining of the bird.
More ambition, too. Menus
broaden and grow. My mother
treated every holiday meal as an
elaborate opportunity to place
unfamiliar foods in front of the
sometimes-scowling faces of
her three ungrateful sons. Roast
fennel, steamed kale, wild rice
and plums, cold turnip salad,
beet greens with baked apple.
And on the day in question?
More coats on the bed. More
cars in the driveway. More seats
at more tables. More cousins.
More noise. More faces at
the table. And there in front
of them, the grand production
of time, ambition, and love:
the holiday meal.
All that, of course. And more.
TO M C H I A R E L L A
D U C K T W O WAYS W I T H
CLEMENTINEFIG RELISH
8 SERVINGS The best way to tackle
this recipe is to braise the legs and make
the relish in advance, then cook the
breasts and crisp the legs on party night.
DUCK
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns,
lightly crushed
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds,
lightly crushed
1 Tbsp. fennel seeds, lightly crushed
8 duck legs (about 8 lb.),
excess fat trimmed, frenched
Kosher salt
4 duck breasts (about 3 lb.),
fat trimmed
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 medium leeks, white and pale
green parts only, chopped
12 sprigs thyme
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
2 cups dry white wine
R E L I S H A N D ASS E M B LY
2 clementines, very thinly
sliced crosswise (with peel),
seeds removed
1 cup dried black Mission figs,
halved
1 cups cognac or brandy
1 cup sugar
2 Tbsp. whole grain mustard
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or
red wine vinegar
D U C K Mix peppercorns, coriander
seeds, and fennel seeds in a small bowl.
Prick skin of duck legs all over with a
paring knife; season generously with salt.
Sprinkle duck legs with spice mixture,
pressing to adhere. Score fat of each duck
breast in a crosshatch pattern, spacing
" apart; season all over with salt. Divide
legs and breasts between 2 large rimmed
baking sheets. Let sit at room temperature
1 hour or chill uncovered up to 3 days.
If chilling, let duck legs sit at room
temperature 1 hour before braising.
Place a rack in lower third of oven;
preheat to 300. Heat oil in a large
wide Dutch oven or other heavy pot
over medium and cook leeks, stirring
occasionally, until softened and browned
around edges, 810 minutes. Add thyme
sprigs, garlic, and bay leaves and cook,
stirring occasionally, until fragrant and
garlic is slightly softened, about 2 minutes.
Add wine, bring to a boil, and simmer until
reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
Remove pot from heat and slip duck
legs, skin side down, into liquid (depending
on size of pan, they may overlap quite
a bitthis is okay!). Pour in water to come
three-quarters of the way up legs. Cover
pot and braise duck legs in oven until
submerged in their own fat, 12 hours.
Turn duck legs skin side up and
continue to braise (still covered) until
tender and the bones wiggle easily in
joints, 1 2 hours longer. Let legs cool in
braising liquid, then chill until fat rises to
the surface and solidifies, at least 2 hours.
D O A H E A D : Duck legs can be braised
2 days ahead. Keep chilled.
R E L I S H A N D ASS E M B LY Cook clementines,
figs, cognac, sugar, mustard, red pepper
flakes, and bay leaves in a medium
saucepan over medium heat, stirring
occasionally to dissolve sugar, until figs
absorb some liquid and mixture is syrupy,
1015 minutes. Let cool; remove bay leaves.
Stir in vinegar, then strain cup syrup
through a fine-mesh sieve into a small
bowl; set aside to use for glazing duck.
Set remaining relish aside for serving.
Let duck breasts sit until room
temperature, about 1 hour.
Place 2 duck breasts, skin side down,
in a large skillet; set over medium-low
heat and cook duck, occasionally
pouring excess fat from skillet into a bowl
(save it!), until skin is golden brown
and crisp, 1215 minutes. Turn duck over,
increase heat to medium, and cook on
other side 2 minutes. Transfer to a
cutting board. Wipe out skillet and let
cool down, then repeat with remaining
2 breasts. (If you have 2 large skillets,
by all means do all 4 breasts at once.)
Let rest at least 10 minutes before slicing.
Meanwhile, place a rack in upper third
of oven; preheat to 425. Remove duck
legs from braising liquid, brushing off any
seeds or fat clinging to surface. Place, skin
side up, on a wire rack set inside a foil-
lined rimmed baking sheet and lightly brush
with reserved glaze. Roast until golden
brown and skin is crisp, 1015 minutes.
Serve duck legs and sliced breasts
with reserved relish.
D O A H E A D : Relish can be made 2 days
ahead. Cover and chill strained glaze and
relish separately. Bring to room temperature
before using.
 PREVIOUS
SPREAD:
Harcourt Grand Vase
(as decanter),
price upon request;
us.baccarat.com.
Orleans wine glass
(far left),
$585 for six;
jungleeny.com
T H I S PAG E :
Mille Nuits decanter,
$890; Massna tumbler,
$155; us.baccarat.com
Flowers throughout
by Saipua
 OPPOSITE:
Savoy red wine
glass, $64 for two;
jungleeny.com.
Mille Nuits
dessert plate (top
right), $235;
us.baccarat.com
 Bottle coaster
with wood
insert, $140;
jungleeny.com.
Society fringe
napkin, $36;
abchome.com
R E V E R S E S E A R R I B E Y E R OA S T
W I T H F E N N E L A N D R O S E M A RY
12 SERVINGS Cutting the meat into two
smaller pieces reduces cooking time,
but its the roast first, brown later reverse
sear thats game-changing. See Prep
School, p.167, to learn more.
cup rosemary leaves
3 Tbsp. fennel pollen, or 2 Tbsp.
fennel seeds, finely ground
1 6-bone standing beef rib-eye roast
(1013 lb.), preferably dry-aged,
chine bone removed,
fat trimmed to " thick
6 garlic cloves, finely grated
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 oz. bacon, coarsely chopped
1 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter,
1 cup cut into pieces, cup
room temperature
1 large shallot, finely chopped
cup finely chopped chives
1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or
mortar and pestle
Working in 2 batches, scatter rosemary
over a paper towellined plate. Top
with another sheet of paper towel and
microwave on high 1 minute. Check
rosemary and continue to microwave in
20-second intervals, until dry and crisp.
Grind rosemary in spice mill or with
mortar and pestle to a powder. Transfer to
a small bowl and mix in fennel pollen.
Place roast, fat side down, on a cutting
board with a long side facing you. Using
a sharp slicing knife and long strokes,
cut roast into two 3-bone roasts. French rib
bones 1 " from tip of bones, if desired.
Score fat cap in a crosshatch pattern,
spacing cuts 1" apart. Rub roasts all over
with garlic, then coat with rosemary mixture.
Season generously with salt and pepper.
Place, fat cap up, on a rack, set inside
a roasting pan. Chill, uncovered, at least
8 hours and up to 1 day.
Let roasts sit at room temperature
2 hours for even roasting.
Place a rack in lower third of oven;
preheat to 225. Roast meat, rotating pan
once, until an instant-read thermometer
inserted into the thickest part of roasts
registers 125 for medium rare, or 130
for medium, 3 4 hours. Remove from
oven, tent with foil, and let rest 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook bacon in a small
saucepan over medium heat, stirring
occasionally, until brown and crisp,
810 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer bacon to a small bowl; reserve
for another use (its the fat youre after).
Add butter pieces to drippings in pan and
cook, stirring often, until mixture foams,
then browns, 58 minutes. Strain into
a medium nonreactive bowl. Immediately
stir in shallot; let cool (butter will have
set up but will still be soft). Using an
electric mixer on medium-high, add room-
temperature butter to bacon fat mixture
and beat until light and fluffy. Mix in chives
and vinegar; season bacon butter with
salt. Chill, stirring occasionally, at least
20 minutes (butter should be a little more
firm but still light and fluffy).
Move rack to upper third of oven;
increase oven temperature to 500. Roast
meat until deep brown and exterior is
crisp, 810 minutes. Serve rib-eye roast
with bacon butter.
D O A H E A D : Bacon butter mixture
(without chives and vinegar) can be made
3 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled.
Let soften slightly before adding chives
and vinegar.
S P I C Y TA M A R I N D A N D
H O N E Y G L A Z E D S P I R A L H A M
12 SERVINGS PLUS LEFTOVERS A sweet, sour,
and spicy take on the classic centerpiece
ham, and the leftovers will taste awesome
in a mini potato roll.
1 810-lb. shank-end, spiral-sliced,
bone-in ham
3 Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles,
seeds removed, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled ginger
cup tamarind concentrate
cup plus 1 Tbsp. honey
Kosher salt
cup dry red wine
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Often labeled
concentrate cooking tamarind, tamarind
concentrate can be found at Asian and
Thai markets, and online.
Let ham sit at room temperature 1 hour
for even baking.
Place a rack in lower third of oven;
preheat to 300. Wrap ham tightly in foil
and place on a wire rack set inside a
foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake until
an instant-read thermometer inserted
into the thickest part of ham, avoiding
the bone, registers 120, 1 2 hours.
Meanwhile, mix chiles, garlic, ginger,
tamarind, and cup honey in a small
bowl; season lightly with salt. Set cup
glaze aside for sauce.
Remove ham from oven and uncover.
Increase oven temperature to 450.
Brush ham with cup glaze and bake
10 minutes. Brush with another cup
glaze and bake until surface is crisp
and looks lacquered, 1015 minutes.
Remove from oven and tent with foil;
let ham rest 20 minutes before slicing.
Meanwhile, bring wine to a boil
in a small saucepan over medium heat;
cook until reduced by half, about
5 minutes. Whisk in reserved cup
glaze and remaining 1 Tbsp. honey.
Cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about
2 minutes. Add butter 1 piece at a time,
incorporating completely before adding
more, until sauce is glossy, about
3 minutes. Taste and season with salt.
Serve ham with sauce alongside.
D O A H E A D : Glaze can be made
1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring
to room temperature before using.
L A M B S H A N KS W I T H
P O M E G R A N AT E A N D WA L N U TS
8 SERVINGS Like any braised dish, this
lamb is better when made one day ahead.
6 lb. lamb shanks (68 shanks,
depending on size), trimmed
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1 tsp. ground cumin
tsp. ground cardamom
cup olive oil, divided
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
6 sprigs thyme
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
cup dry red wine
4 cups (or more) low-sodium
chicken broth
1 cup pomegranate juice
cup pomegranate molasses
2 cups walnuts, rinsed
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
Cooked polenta (for serving)
3 wide strips lemon zest, very thinly
sliced lengthwise
 I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Pomegranate
molasses, a thick pomegranate syrup,
can be found at Middle Eastern markets,
some supermarkets, and online.
Preheat oven to 350. Place lamb
shanks on a large rimmed baking sheet;
season generously with salt and pepper.
Mix cinnamon, turmeric, cumin, and
cardamom in a small bowl; massage
spice mixture into lamb. Let rest 1 hour
at room temperature or chill uncovered
up to 12 hours (the longer, the better).
If chilling, let shanks sit at room
temperature 1 hour for even roasting.
Heat cup oil in a large pot over
medium-high. Working in batches, cook
lamb shanks until brown on all sides,
1015 minutes. Transfer lamb to paper
towels to drain.
Wipe out pot and let cool slightly
so that vegetables dont burn. Heat
remaining cup oil in pot over medium.
Add onions, season with salt, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until golden and
softened, 810 minutes. Add thyme sprigs,
garlic, and bay leaves and cook, stirring
often, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Sprinkle flour over and stir vigorously to
evenly distribute. Cook, stirring often, until
flour is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add
wine; bring to a simmer and cook, stirring
often, until thickened, about 2 minutes.
Gradually stir in broth, pomegranate juice,
and pomegranate molasses. Bring to
a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally,
until flavors meld, about 5 minutes.
Arrange lamb shanks in a single layer
in a large roasting pan. Pour in onion
mixture and push lamb shanks down into
liquid (about three-quarters of lamb
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
shanks should be submerged; add more
broth if needed). Cover pan with foil and
cook lamb, turning occasionally, until
meat is fork-tender and almost falling off
the bone, 1 2 hours. Remove pan from
oven and let lamb rest, covered, in liquid
at least 30 minutes.
Transfer lamb to a platter and tent with
foil to keep warm. Strain braising liquid
through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium
saucepan; skim off fat from surface and
discard. Add walnuts to braising liquid
and bring to a simmer over medium-high.
Cook until reduced by one-third, 1520
minutes (sauce should be slightly thickened
and velvety). Add butter a piece at
a time, stirring after each addition until
incorporated before adding more; sauce
should look glossy. Return lamb to pot
and cook, stirring to coat, until heated
through. Taste and adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper.
Arrange lamb over polenta on a
platter and spoon walnuts and sauce
over; top with lemon zest.
D O A H E A D : Lamb shanks can be
braised 1 day ahead. Chill uncovered
until cold, then cover and keep chilled.
LO B S T E R F R A D I AV O LO
8 SERVINGS To keep lobsters alive in your
fridge for up to one day, pack in damp
newspaper. You can substitute eight frozen
tails; sear per recipe method, then use the
meat from four in place of the knuckles
and claws, and split the others for serving.
4 1 -lb. lobsters
cup (or more) olive oil, divided
Kosher salt
1 cup brandy
2 medium onions, chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled, chopped
2 medium fennel bulbs, chopped
8 garlic cloves, crushed
cup finely chopped drained
oil-packed Calabrian chiles
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes,
plus more for serving
cup tomato paste
2 cups dry white wine
4 28-oz. cans whole peeled
tomatoes, preferably San
Marzano, drained, pured
2 lb. spaghetti
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
cup finely chopped parsley
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Lemon wedges (for serving)
This first part might not be pleasant, but itll
be over quickly: Working with 1 lobster
at a time, place on a cutting board, belly
side down, with head facing you (freezing
them 810 minutes first will render them
fairly immobile). Insert a chefs knife where
the tail meets the head, and swiftly bisect
head lengthwise in one fell swoop (leave
tail intact). Using the back of a cleaver or
a lobster cracker, crack each claw on all
sides. Twist off tails and cut in half through
shells lengthwise. Remove any tomalley or
eggs (reserve if you like). Twist off knuckles
and claws, then separate knuckles from
claws using cleaver.
Heat cup oil in a wide Dutch oven or
heavy pot thats large enough to hold pasta
over medium-high. Season lobsters with
salt and, working in separate batches and
being careful not to overcrowd pot, sear
lobster pieces, turning occasionally and
adding more oil if pot looks dry, until shells
are bright red, about 4 minutes for knuckles,
claws, and tails; about 6 minutes for heads.
Transfer lobsters to a rimmed baking sheet;
let cool slightly. Remove pot from heat
and add brandy. Return to heat and cook,
scraping up browned bits, until smell of
alcohol is almost gone, about 2 minutes.
Transfer brandy mixture to a small bowl.
Pick lobster meat from knuckles and claws;
discard shells. Place in an airtight container
with tails; cover and chill until ready to use.
Set heads aside. Wipe out pot and reserve.
Working in batches, pulse onions,
carrots, and fennel separately in a food
processor until finely chopped; transfer
vegetables to a large bowl after each
is chopped. Heat remaining cup oil
in reserved pot over medium-high. Cook
vegetables, stirring occasionally, until
slightly softened, 810 minutes. Add
garlic, chiles, and 1 tsp. red pepper flakes
and cook, smashing garlic with a wooden
spoon and stirring occasionally, until
fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomato
paste, season with salt, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until slightly darkened, about
3 minutes. Add wine and reserved lobster
heads; bring to a simmer and cook, stirring
occasionally, until reduced by one-third,
about 2 minutes. Add tomato pure to
pot and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat
to medium and cook, stirring occasionally,
until sauce is slightly thickened, 1015
minutes. Discard lobster heads.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large
pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until very al dente. Drain,
reserving 3 cups pasta cooking liquid.
Add butter, chilled lobster meat, lobster
tails, pasta, reserved brandy mixture,
and 2 cups pasta cooking liquid to sauce.
Cook, tossing to combine and adding
more pasta cooking liquid as needed,
until sauce coats pasta. Because youre
working with a large amount of pasta
and sauce, this will take efforttoss using
a long sturdy spoon in each hand, and
make sure to get to the bottom of pot as
you go. Add parsley and lemon juice,
then transfer pasta to a platter, arranging
lobster tails on top. Sprinkle with red
pepper flakes and serve with lemon
wedges for squeezing over.
D O A H E A D : Lobsters can be prepared
6 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
 SH R
RU GA
!
SU

Recipes by ANNA POSEY

P h o t o g r a p h s b y M I C H A E L G R AY D O N + N I KO L E H E R R I O T T
 CHOCOLATE
COVERED
MARSHMALLOW
COOKIES
P . 14 3

FROM A NUTELL A RICH SPIN ON RICE KRISPIES TREATS TO

C H O C O L AT E C L O A K E D S T R AW B E R R Y M A R S H M A L L OW S , T H I S Y E A R S
B AT C H O F H O L I D AY C O O K I E S H A S A W H O L E N E W L O O K

137
GRAPEFRUIT
VANILLA
SHORTBREAD
P . 14 4
BLACK
AND
WHITE
H A LVA H
P . 14 4
 NUTELLA
BROWN BUT TER
CRISPIES
P . 14 4
CHOCOLATE
BLACKOUT
COOKIES
P . 14 5
 Perfect your
confections
with advice
from our
Test Kitchen.
See Prep
School, pp. 165
and 167.

SALTED BL ACK
LICORICE
CARAMELS
Salted Black Licorice
Caramels
MAKES 24 People who love black licorice
will flip for these assertively flavored
candies. Theyll be not-quite-black
without the food coloring but still very
cool looking.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
cup sugar
cup sweetened condensed milk
cup blackstrap (robust) molasses
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. anise (licorice) extract
10 drops black food
coloring (optional)
Flaky sea salt
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A candy
thermometer
Lightly coat an 8 x 4 " loaf pan with
nonstick spray and line with parchment
paper, leaving a 2" overhang on long
sides. Lightly coat parchment with
nonstick spray. Cook sugar, sweetened
condensed milk, molasses, butter, salt,
and 3 Tbsp. water in a medium saucepan
over medium heat, stirring with a
heatproof rubber spatula, until sugar is
dissolved, butter is melted, and mixture
is smooth. Fit saucepan with thermometer
and bring mixture to a boil, stirring
constantly and scraping bottom with
spatula to keep mixture from burning,
until thermometer registers 246. Remove
pan from heat and stir in anise extract
and food coloring, if using, then
immediately pour into prepared pan
and sprinkle with sea salt. Loosely cover
pan with plastic wrap and let sit until
caramel is cool and set, at least 2 hours.
Lift caramel out of pan using parchment
overhang. Peel away parchment and
cut caramel into a 6x4 grid to make
24 pieces total. Wrap individually in
waxed paper or parchment paper.
D O A H E A D : Caramels can be made
2 days ahead. Store at room temperature
in an airtight container.
Chocolate-Covered
Marshmallow Cookies
MAKES ABOUT 36 This ambitious
Mallomars-inspired recipe is a project:
Make the (wheat-free!) cookie base
and top with marshmallow on day one;
enrobe in chocolate on day two.
COOKIES
cup almond flour or meal
cup rice flour
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
room temperature
cup granulated sugar
cup powdered sugar
tsp. kosher salt
1 large egg yolk
M A R S H M A L LO W A N D ASS E M B LY
1 1.2-oz. bag freeze-
dried strawberries
1 envelope unflavored powdered
gelatin (about 2 tsp.)
2 large egg whites
tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. plus cup granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. light corn syrup
12 oz. semisweet or bittersweet
chocolate, chopped
2 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil
Pearl sugar and/or red sanding
sugar (for serving; optional)
Red luster dust
(for serving; optional)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A 1"1 "-diameter
cookie cutter; candy thermometer
C O O K I E S Whisk almond flour and rice
flour in a medium bowl. In the bowl of
a stand mixer, on medium, beat butter,
granulated sugar, powdered sugar, and
salt until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
Reduce speed to low and beat in egg
yolk, then dry ingredients.
Roll out dough between 2 sheets of
parchment paper to " thick. Using
parchment, slide dough onto a baking
sheet and chill until firm, 3040 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350. Peel away top
layer of parchment paper from dough
and punch out rounds with cutter; transfer
cookies to another parchment-lined large
baking sheet, spacing at least 1" apart.
(You should have 36 cookies; if desired,
gather scraps and save for another use.)
Bake cookies until edges are golden
but centers are still pale, 1012 minutes.
Let cool on baking sheets.
Line another rimmed baking sheet with
foil and set a wire rack inside. Transfer
cooled cookies to rack.
M A R S H M A L LO W A N D ASS E M B LY Pulse
strawberries in a food processor until
finely ground. Pass through a fine-mesh
sieve into a small bowl to remove larger
pieces; set strawberry powder aside.
Place cup cold water in a small
bowl and sprinkle gelatin over top; let sit
until gelatin is softened, 1015 minutes.
Beat egg whites, salt, and 2 tsp.
granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the whisk attachment
on medium-high speed to soft peaks.
Heat corn syrup, remaining cup
granulated sugar, and 3 Tbsp. water
in a small saucepan over medium-low,
stirring with a heatproof spatula until
sugar is dissolved. Fit saucepan with
thermometer and bring syrup to a boil;
cook, brushing down sides of saucepan
with a wet pastry brush to dissolve any
crystals, until thermometer registers
242. Working quickly through the next
few steps, immediately remove syrup
from heat and add gelatin mixture, stirring
with spatula just until melted. With mixer
on medium speed, gradually stream syrup
into egg whites, aiming for the space
between the sides of the bowl and the
whisk. Increase speed to high and
beat until marshmallow is very light, thick,
and glossy and the sides of the bowl
feel cool to the touch, 1012 minutes.
Beat in reserved strawberry powder.
Transfer marshmallow mixture to a
disposable pastry bag and snip a 1"
opening off the end (or use a resealable
plastic bag and cut off 1 corner). Position
end of piping bag " from surface
of cookie, holding bag perpendicular;
applying even pressure, begin slowly
piping (do not move the bag). Pipe until
marshmallow has expanded to the
diameter of the cookie, then slowly lift
the tip upward to create a soft peak.
(Imagine a tall Hersheys Kiss shape
about 2" high.) When all the cookies
have been topped with marshmallow,
chill uncovered on baking sheet
until marshmallow is set, 22 hours.
(Loosely cover at this point and chill
up to 12 hours if desired.)
Heat chocolate and oil in a heatproof
bowl set over a saucepan of barely
simmering water (do not let water touch
bottom of bowl), stirring until chocolate is
melted and incorporated. Let cool slightly.
Drizzle a level tablespoon of chocolate
mixture over each marshmallow cookie,
coating completely. Sprinkle with pearl
and/or sanding sugar if desired.
Once all cookies have been coated,
use a small offset spatula to nudge at the
base across the rack to remove any drips.
Chill until chocolate is set, at least 30
minutes. Decorate with luster dust if desired.
Grapefruit-Vanilla
Shortbread
MAKES 16 A few textured and vibrant
toppings gussy up a tender, buttery,
and ultrasimple shortbread.
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
room temperature, cut into
pieces, plus more for pan
1 Tbsp. finely grated grapefruit zest
1 tsp. vanilla extract
cup plus 1 cup powdered sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 Tbsp. fresh grapefruit juice
Himalayan pink salt, dried
hibiscus flowers, red sprinkles
or sanding sugar, dried rose
petals, and/or cracked
pink peppercorns
(for serving; optional)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A 9" springform pan
Lightly butter pan. Pulse grapefruit zest,
vanilla extract, cup butter, and cup
powdered sugar in a food processor
until smooth and homogenous. Add
flour and tsp. kosher salt; pulse just
to combine. Press dough evenly into
prepared pan, smoothing top with a
flat-bottomed glass or measuring cup.
Chill until firm, about 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350. Prick shortbread
all over with a fork 1"2" apart, and
bake until edges are golden and center
is pale but firm to the touch, 1518 minutes.
Remove band from pan and
immediately cut shortbread into 16
wedges. Let cool.
Whisk grapefruit juice, a pinch of
kosher salt, and remaining 1 cup
powdered sugar in a small bowl until
smooth. Spread a thin layer of icing over
shortbreads with a small offset spatula,
leaving a thin border of crust exposed.
Top as desired. Let sit 1015 minutes
to allow glaze to set. Retrace cut marks.
D O A H E A D : Dough can be pressed
into pan 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Black-and-White Halvah
MAKES ABOUT 16 Both types of tahini
should be roughly the same consistency
ideally pretty loose and pourable
which makes it easy to marble them. Most
black tahini will be great, but Roland
and Whole Foods 365 Organic were
the best of the white tahini we tested.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
cup white tahini
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 cups sugar, divided
cup black tahini
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A candy
thermometer
Lightly coat an 8 x4 " loaf pan with
nonstick spray and line with parchment
paper, leaving a 2" overhang on long
sides. Place a sheet of parchment paper
on work surface and lightly coat with
nonstick spray. Beat white tahini and
tsp. salt in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment on
low speed just until smooth.
Meanwhile, place cup sugar in a
small saucepan and remaining cup
sugar in another small saucepan. Add
cup water to each saucepan and set
both saucepans over low heat. Cook,
stirring with a rubber spatula to dissolve,
about 4 minutes. Keep 1 saucepan over
low and increase heat to medium-high for
other saucepan and fit with thermometer.
Cook syrup, brushing down sides of
saucepan with a wet pastry brush to
dissolve any crystals, until thermometer
registers 248, 710 minutes.
Immediately remove saucepan with
boiling syrup from heat. Increase mixer
speed to medium and gradually stream
syrup into white tahini, aiming for the
space between the sides of the bowl
and the paddle. Beat just until halvah
comes together in a smooth mass, less
than a minute. (Do not overmix or it
will be crumbly.) Working quickly, scrape
onto prepared parchment and flatten
with spatula until " thick. Invert a
medium bowl over halvah to keep warm.
Rinse any hardened sugar off
thermometer; clip to second saucepan.
Increase heat to medium-high and cook
syrup, brushing down sides of saucepan
with wet pastry brush, until thermometer
registers 248, about 4 minutes.
While the syrup is cooking, briefly beat
black tahini and remaining tsp. salt in
the same bowl of stand mixer (no need
to clean it out unless you have lots of
hardened sugar stuck around sides) until
smooth. Stream in syrup and mix just until
halvah comes together in a smooth mass.
Uncover white halvah (it should still
be warm) and scrape black halvah on
top; flatten to about the same shape as
the white halvah. Using the sides of the
parchment to lift edges, fold stacked
halvah in half and flatten slightly.
Repeat folding and flattening motions
45 times, rotating halvah as you work,
to create a marbled effect (be careful
not to work it too much or mixture will
be crumbly). Press into prepared pan.
Fold sides of parchment paper over top
of halvah and let cool, at least 3 hours.
Lift halvah out of pan using parchment
overhang. Peel away parchment;
cut halvah crosswise into "-thick slices.
D O A H E A D : Halvah can be made
3 days ahead. Leave in pan. Store tightly
wrapped at room temperature.
NutellaBrown
Butter Crispies
MAKES 24 For a smaller batch and an
easier time mixing the cereal, divide
this recipe in half (but use an 8x8" pan).
cup (1 sticks) unsalted butter,
plus more for pan
2 10.5-oz. bags mini marshmallows
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 cups Nutella
12 cups puffed rice cereal, divided
(from one 12-oz. box)
1 1.2-oz. bag freeze-dried
strawberries or
raspberries (optional)
1 tsp. red luster dust (optional)
cup powdered sugar
Lightly butter a 13x9" baking dish, then
line with parchment paper, leaving a
2" overhang on long sides. Lightly butter
parchment. Cook cup butter in a large
pot over medium heat, swirling, until butter
foams, then browns (be careful not to let
it burn), 57 minutes. Add marshmallows
and salt. Reduce heat to low and cook,
stirring constantly, until marshmallows
are melted and mixture is smooth, about
3 minutes. Add Nutella and stir until
completely incorporated into marshmallow
mixture, about 2 minutes.
Remove pot from heat and add half
of puffed rice to marshmallow mixture;
stir with a nonflexible heatproof spatula
or wooden spoon, scraping bottom of pot
and folding, until cereal is coated. Add
remaining cereal and fold until mixture
is homogenous. (Its a lot of cereal, so
youll need to exert some effort.) If mixture
is too stiff, heat over low while continuing
to fold in cereal. Scrape into prepared
pan; let cool slightly, then cover with
 a sheet of parchment paper. Press down
firmly to make an even, compact layer
(you want the top to be as flat as possible;
a smaller pan, like a loaf or an 8x8"
pan, works great for this). Cover crispies
loosely with plastic and let sit until cool,
about 2 hours.
Just before serving, using parchment
paper overhang, lift crispies out of pan
and place upside down on a cutting
board; remove parchment. Using a
serrated knife, trim about " from all sides
to make a squared-off rectangle, then
cut into a 6x4 grid to make 24 squares.
Place crispies on a wire rack, spacing
at least 1" apart.
To make half the crispies red, as
pictured, pulse freeze-dried strawberries
in a food processor until finely ground;
add luster dust and pulse just to combine.
Using a fine-mesh sieve, dust 12 squares
with strawberry powder, then, using
a dry, clean sieve, dust remaining
12 squares with powdered sugar. Or
feel free to dust all 24 squares with
powdered sugar instead.
D O A H E A D : Crispies can be made
1 day ahead. Leave in pan. Store tightly
wrapped at room temperature. Cut into
squares and coat just before serving.
Chocolate Blackout Cookies
MAKES ABOUT 24 We love the look
FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
of the homemade extra-long sprinkles
on these whoopie-pie-type cookies,
but they take a steady hand and a
wealth of patience to shape. Use any
store-bought sprinkle in their place.
SPRINKLES
1 large egg white
1 cups powdered sugar
COOKIES
4 oz. semisweet chocolate,
coarsely chopped
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp.
all-purpose flour
cup unsweetened cocoa
powder, preferably
Dutch process
tsp. baking powder
tsp. instant espresso powder
tsp. baking soda
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 cups (packed) dark brown sugar
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. kosher salt
I C I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
3 oz. semisweet chocolate,
coarsely chopped
cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. light corn syrup
tsp. kosher salt
cup powdered sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room
temperature, cut into pieces
S P R I N K L E S Whisk egg white in a medium
bowl just to loosen. Add powdered sugar
and tsp. water and whisk until smooth.
Mixture should be smooth, satiny, and
very thick. If mixture is too thick or gloppy,
whisk in another tsp. water. Transfer
to a disposable pastry bag and snip off
end of bag (or use a resealable plastic
bag and cut off 1 corner) to make a very
small opening.
Pipe icing in very thin, very straight lines
across a parchment-lined baking sheet,
spacing close together (if icing does not
squeeze out of bag easily, snip a slightly
larger opening). Keep piping until youve
covered the entire sheet of parchment
(discard leftover icing or save for another
use). Let sit at room temperature until
hardened, at least 8 hours and up to
1 day (to speed up drying, you can also
bake sprinkles in a 150 oven for 22
hours). Lift ends of parchment to break
sprinkles into various lengths, then gently
roll your fingers over top to loosen from
parchment paper.
D O A H E A D : Sprinkles can be
made 2 days ahead. Store airtight
at room temperature.
C O O K I E S Preheat oven to 350. Heat
chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl
set over a saucepan of barely simmering
water (do not let water touch bottom
of bowl), stirring until melted and mixture
is smooth. Let cool.
Meanwhile, sift flour, cocoa, baking
powder, espresso powder, and baking
soda in a medium bowl. Using an electric
mixer on medium-high speed, beat eggs,
brown sugar, vanilla, and salt in a large
bowl until thick and light, about 3 minutes.
Reduce speed to low and add chocolate
mixture; mix just to combine. Turn off mixer.
Add dry ingredients and pulse mixer on
low until no dry spots remain. If dough is
very soft, cover and chill until firm enough
to scoop, 1015 minutes.
Using a 1 oz. scoop (or a scant
cup), portion out dough and roll into
balls between your palms (if dough
becomes very sticky while rolling, chill
for a few minutes). Place balls on
2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing
at least 2" apart; flatten slightly. Bake
cookies, rotating baking sheets once,
until centers are puffed and edges are
just firm,1318 minutes. Let cookies
cool 20 minutes on baking sheets, then
peel away parchment and transfer to
a wire rack. Let cool completely.
D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked
1 day ahead. Store tightly wrapped
at room temperature.
I C I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Heat chocolate,
cream, corn syrup, and salt in a heatproof
bowl set over a saucepan of barely
simmering water (do not let water touch
bottom of bowl), stirring until chocolate
is melted and mixture is smooth. Let cool.
Whisk powdered sugar and vanilla into
chocolate mixture, then add butter 1 piece
at a time, whisking to incorporate fully
after each addition. Whisk until icing looks
smooth and glossy.
Using an offset spatula, spread
about 1 Tbsp. icing over each cookie
and top with sprinkles.
THE
COOKIE
MAVEN
An n a Posey is t he
p a st r y chef a nd
co-ow ner w it h her
husb a nd , D a v id
Posey of Elske,
w hich is sla t ed t o
op en t his mont h in
Chica g os West L oo p.
P rev iously t he p a st r y
chef a t The P ub lican
a nd P ub lica n Qua li t y
Mea t s, Posey is a ls o
a w or king illust ra t o r;
she d esig ned Elskes
w a llp a p er a nd menus.
Find more of her
cookies a nd a r t a t
a nna p osey a r t .com.
 SUNNY
l i f o r
a

n
c

i a
a
h

s
r i

a
s t m

SIDE UP
14 6
 JESSICA KOSLOW,
CHEF OF THE
L.A. BREAKFAST
INSTITUTION
SQIRL,SHOWS
US HOW TO
D O A H O L I DAY
BRUNCH RIGHT

by
CHRISTINE MUHLKE
photographs by
CLAIRE COTTRELL

HAZELNUT
AND BUCKWHEAT
FINANCIERS
WITH FIGS
P . 14 8

<Chef Jessica Koslow and

musician Sebastien Grainger

On Christmas, I can take a deep
breath and be fully aware of my life,
my friends, and really have a moment,
says Jessica Koslow, the chef and
owner of L.A.s favorite breakfast-all-
day spot, Sqirl.
In fact, shes created a way to
have two moments on Christmas. In
the morning, she opens gifts with her
boyfriend Ryans family. Then, after
people have spent time with their
families, they want to get away
and spend time with their friends.
So all of her pals from her Silverlake
neighborhood are invited to a non-
denominational post-present hang
she calls break-unch, not brunch.
Sweet, savory, and vaguely healthy
(greens!), its a low-stress way
of cooking on a day that Koslow
should really be cooked for.
How do you keep this easy when
you cook almost every day? Koslow
asks. And its a very real question.
She relies on her standbys, plus
some recipes in her new cookbook,
Everything I Want to Eat. Days
before, salmon is cured with beets,
and Koslow makes jamthe product
that launched the Sqirl empire. The
morning of, she turns out hazelnut-
buckwheat financiers, a very tall
quiche, shakshuka cooked in her
pizza oven, and a shreddy veg salad.
The guest list mixes Sqirl regulars
with friends shes made while walking
her dog, Mnk. Its a good look at
what Silverlake is about, Koslow says,
adding with a laugh, whats really
great is that no one else is a chef.
While she pours turmeric toddies,
pals chase their children around the
concrete-and-succulent-covered yard.
Koslow hangs with Sebastien Grainger,
the drummer of Death From Above
1979, who rents the other side of her
duplex. Twilight actress Elizabeth
Reaser is there with her dog, Luther,
who is Mnks best bud. The day
reaches into evening, naps are taken
in strollers, and friends gradually
walk the few minutes homean
unusual, lovely Los Angeles moment.
148
Hazelnut and Buckwheat
Financiers with Figs
MAKES 6 LARGE OR 12 SMALL These are
moist and nutty from the addition of
brown butter and hazelnuts; resting the
dough amplifies all of those flavors.
cup skin-on hazelnuts
1 cups powdered sugar
cup buckwheat flour
tsp. kosher salt
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
4 large egg whites
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
3 fresh or dried figs, cut lengthwise
into 6 wedges (optional)
Demerara or raw sugar
(for sprinkling)
Preheat oven to 350. Toast hazelnuts
on a large rimmed baking sheet until skins
are slightly darkened and split, 1215
minutes. Let cool, then bundle in a kitchen
towel and rub vigorously to remove skins
(there will definitely be some stubborn
pieces that refuse to come offdo what
you can). Transfer to a food processor and
pulse until finely ground. Whisk hazelnuts,
powdered sugar, buckwheat flour,
and salt in a medium bowl to combine.
Cook butter in a small saucepan over
medium heat until it foams, then browns
(be careful not to let it burn), 57 minutes.
Let cool slightly.
Whisk egg whites in a medium bowl
until foamy (youre not trying to create
volume; you just want to break them up),
then whisk into dry ingredients. Whisk
in brown butter. Cover and chill batter
until firm, at least 2 hours.
Reheat oven to 350. Generously
coat six 4-oz. fluted financier molds or
a standard 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick
spray. Divide batter among molds
(use about cup batter per mold, or
2 mounded Tbsp. if using a muffin pan).
Top with figs (if using) and sprinkle with
demerara sugar. Bake until tops are
browned and edges are firm, 2025
minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and
let financiers cool 10 minutes in pans before
turning out onto racks. Let cool completely.
D O A H E A D : Batter can be made
2 days ahead. Keep chilled.
Broccoli and Cheese Quiche
8 SERVINGS A remarkable quiche for
a few reasons: The dough is intentionally
generous so that it can be formed into
tall walls all around, and the filling is
jam-packed full of healthy greens. They
balance out the butter and cream, right?
CRUST
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour,
plus more for surface
11 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
1 Tbsp. olive oil
small shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 small head of broccoli
(about 8 oz.), halved lengthwise,
chopped (about 3 cups)
1 small bunch Swiss chard, ribs
and stems removed, leaves
coarsely torn (4 about cups)
4 oz. feta, crumbled (about 1 cup)
2 oz. sharp cheddar, grated
(about 1 cup)
6 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
1 cups heavy cream
1 cup half-and-half or heavy cream
or whole milk
3 Tbsp. chopped chives
1 tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A 9" springform pan
C R U S T Whisk salt and 2 cups flour in
a large bowl to combine. Work in butter
with your fingers until largest pieces are
pea-size. Drizzle in cup ice water and
rake with your fingers to combine. Turn
dough out onto a work surface and lightly
knead to work into a shaggy dough
(no dry spots should remain). Flatten into
a disk; wrap in plastic and chill until firm,
at least 2 hours and up to 2 days ahead.
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
to 350. Roll out dough on a lightly floured
surface to a 14" round. Transfer dough
to pan. Lift up edges and allow dough
to slump down into pan, then pat into
corners and up around the sides of pan.
Smooth out dough so it doesnt have
any creases or folds and trim to just below
the rim. (Save any scraps for patching.)
Freeze until very firm, about 20 minutes.
Line dough with 2 layers of overlapping
parchment paper and fill with pie weights
or dried beans (ideally right up to the rim;
pillage the pantry for old dried beans
and rice to get you there). Bake until crust
is golden brown all the way around edges
(peek below the parchment), 6075
minutes. Carefully remove parchment and
pie weights. If needed, patch any cracks
with reserved dough trimmings and bake
crust just until patches are opaque, about
5 minutes. Let crust cool.
BROCCOLI AND
CHEESE QUICHE
 P . 15 2
SALMON
BEETCURED

PLATTER BY PETER SHELDON CERAMICS

L E F T T O R I G H T , T O P T O B O T T O M : T H E B A C K YA R D ; A C T R E S S N I C O L E L A L I B E R T E ; G R E E N S H A K S H U K A ( P. 15 2 ) ;
A C T R E S S E L I Z A B E T H R E A S E R ; W I N T E R V E G S A L A D ( P . 15 2 ) ; G A R D E N E R R O N F I N L E Y ; A T U R M E R I C T O D D Y ;
MODEL ARIELLE SKYE; ARTIST HAMISH, WRITER ANI, AND LIL GRIFFIN ROBERTSON.

151
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Reduce oven heat
to 325. Heat oil in a large skillet over
medium. Cook shallot and garlic, stirring
occasionally, until softened, about
5 minutes. Add broccoli and cook, tossing
occasionally, until crisp-tender, about
5 minutes. Add Swiss chard leaves and
cook, tossing often, just until wilted, about
2 minutes. Let cool. Stir in feta and cheddar.
Whisk eggs, egg yolks, cream, and half-
and-half in a medium bowl just to combine.
Mix in chives and salt; season with pepper.
Scrape vegetable mixture into crust, then
carefully pour in egg mixture. Bake quiche
until filling is lightly browned and set across
the surface but slightly wobbly in the center
inch or two, 7590 minutes. Let quiche
cool in pan before unmolding and slicing.
D O A H E A D : Quiche can be baked
2 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Beet-Cured Salmon
8 SERVINGS Make it your thing. Serve
this vibrantly hued cured salmon with
an assortment of easily assembled herbs,
pickles, seedy breads, and schmears.
2 tsp. black peppercorns
2 tsp. coriander seeds
2 tsp. dill seeds
4 allspice berries
4 juniper berries
1 cup kosher salt
cup sugar
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 2-lb. skin-on, boneless salmon fillet
2 medium beets, trimmed,
coarsely grated
1 small bunch dill, chopped
1 1" piece ginger, peeled,
coarsely grated
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or
a mortar and pestle
Toast peppercorns, coriander and dill
seeds, allspice, and juniper berries in
a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing
often, until very fragrant, about 4 minutes.
Let cool, then finely grind in spice mill or
with mortar and pestle. Transfer to a small
bowl and mix in salt, sugar, and lemon zest.
Lay salmon, skin side down, on a large
sheet of parchment paper set on a large
rimmed baking sheet. Pack spice cure
on both sides of fish, pressing to adhere.
Toss beets, chopped dill, and ginger
in a medium bowl to combine; pack onto
both sides of fish. Fold sides of parchment
over salmon, then wrap tightly in plastic.
Set another baking sheet on top of salmon
and weight with three 28-oz. cans or the
15 2
equivalent in cookbooks or other things
you have in your kitchen. Chill 2 days.
Unwrap salmon and wipe off aromatics
and cure (dont rinse). Thinly slice to serve.
D O A H E A D : Salmon can be cured
3 days ahead. Rewrap after wiping off
aromatics and cure and chill.
Winter Salad with Brussels
Sprouts and Citrus
8 SERVINGS Koslow gets lots of texture
and a range of flavors out of the brussels
sprouts by prepping them three ways
leaves, raw slices, and sauted halves.
G R E E N H A R I SS A
1 serrano chile, seeds removed,
chopped
1 cup (packed) cilantro leaves
with tender stems
cup olive oil
tsp. ground caraway
tsp. ground cumin
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
1 lb. brussels sprouts
1 Tbsp. olive oil
6 small citrus (such as navel
or blood oranges or tangelos)
3 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar
2 tsp. poppy seeds
Kosher salt
1 cup fromage blanc or plain
whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 tsp. nigella seeds (optional)
G R E E N H A R I SS A Pure chile, cilantro,
oil, caraway, and cumin in a blender
until smooth; season with salt and pepper.
D O A H E A D : Harissa can be made
3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY Trim brussels
sprouts; halve lengthwise. Pluck off outer
green leaves and place in a large bowl.
Very thinly slice half of brussels and add
to bowl with leaves. Heat oil in a medium
skillet over medium-high. Cook remaining
brussels, tossing occasionally, until crisp-
tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl.
Trim ends from citrus; cut off peel and
white pith. Cut 3 citrus in half lengthwise,
then thinly slice crosswise. Working over
a bowl, cut along membranes of remaining
3 citrus to release segments. Squeeze
membranes and trim over bowl to release
juices. Whisk 3 Tbsp. juice, vinegar, and
poppy seeds in a small bowl; season
dressing with salt. Discard remaining juice.
Add citrus and dressing to bowl with
brussels sprouts and toss; season with salt.
To serve, spread fromage blanc over
a platter. Arrange salad on top and drizzle
with cup green harissa (save remaining
harissa to use on roasted veg or grilled
meat); sprinkle with nigella seeds, if using.
Green Shakshuka
8 SERVINGS Say that three times fast!
Watch closely toward the end of the
cooking time and remove from oven when
the eggs have plenty of wobble left in them.
tsp. caraway seeds
3 medium bunches green
Swiss chard, divided
Kosher salt
2 serrano chiles,
seeds removed, chopped
cup cilantro leaves
1 tsp. ground cumin
cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (SHAKSHUKA, QUICHE). PROP STYLING BY KIM FICARO. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. CASSEROLE DISH BY WORKADAY HANDMADE. FINANCIERS, SALMON, AND
QUICHE RECIPES ADAPTED FROM EVERYTHING I WANT TO EAT. COPYRIGHT 2016 BY JESSICA KOSLOW. PUBLISHED BY ABRAMS BOOKS. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
1 large onion, sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
8 large eggs
Harissa powder or Aleppo-style
pepper and coarsely chopped
dill (for serving)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or
a mortar and pestle
Preheat oven to 325. Toast caraway
seeds in a dry small skillet over medium
heat, tossing often, until fragrant, about
1 minute. Let cool; finely grind in spice
mill or with mortar and pestle.
Remove ribs and stems from 1 bunch
chard; discard. Blanch leaves in a large
pot of boiling salted water 10 seconds.
Immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water;
let cool. Drain and squeeze out excess
water. Coarsely chop; transfer to a blender.
Add chiles, cilantro, cumin, caraway, cup
oil, and 1 cup ice. Pure, adding more
ice if needed, until smooth; season with salt.
Trim tough stems from remaining chard;
separate leaves from ribs. Tear leaves into
large pieces; chop ribs into bite-size pieces.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet
over medium. Cook onion, stirring often,
until starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add
chard stems, season with salt and pepper,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp-
tender and onion is soft, 58 minutes.
Working in batches, add chard leaves,
letting wilt slightly before adding more;
cook, tossing often, until all leaves are
wilted, about 2 minutes. Pour in pure and
use a spoon to create 8 small wells; crack
an egg into each well. Sprinkle lightly with
salt and harissa powder. Bake until eggs
are just set, 2025 minutes. Top with dill.
 GREEN
SHAKSHUKA
prep school
FROM P. 56
PUNCHDRUNK
LOVE
A clear-glass dispenser layered
artfully with ice and garnishes
definitely makes for a boozy
spectacle. Heres how to do it.
CHRIS MOROCCO
1.
Place a layer of garnishes (citrus
slices are nice) inside the dispenser,
leaning pieces against the sides
where youd like them to stay.
2.
Add enough crushed ice (cubed
works too) to hold the garnishes
flush against the glass.
3.
Repeat the process, gradually
layering garnishes and ice, until
the dispenser is full. Pour punch
over and top off with more ice.
P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
T E C H N I Q U E S , T I P S , A N D M O R E F R OM T H E B O N A P P T I T T E S T K I T C H E N
FROM P. 143
PIPE
DOWN
Using a piping bag
can be challenging for
beginners, but these
tips make it much more
manageable. When
filling the cone, fold
down the upper third
of the bag and stand
it upright in a pint glass
or quart container
to stabilize (and allow
you to work with both
hands). Once its filled,
roll the sides back
up, gather, and twist
to close, then secure
with a rubber band. A piping bag
When youre piping, may be the
ideal tool for
always use two hands,
topping tiny
twisting the bag from shortbread
the top to push the filling cookies, but
down (like a tube of its also the
toothpaste). And before tidiest means
you squeeze, hover of dispensing
the tip directly over marshmallow
the surface without directly into
touching and apply your mouth.
even pressure, lifting
up gently at the end.
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
JAPPROVE! Gruet Brut
We love vintage French Champagne as much as the next guy, but were
not about to pay $50 a bottle for wine were pouring in holiday party
cocktails. Thats why we stock up on Gruet Brutits a crisp, dry, elegant
sparkler, the quality of which belies its sub-$20 price tag. Made by an
Old World Champagne producer in New Mexico, of all places, its our
workhorse bubbly both in the test kitchen and at home. C . M .
D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 1 6 5
prep school

FROM P. 143

SMART COOKIE
Achieving your loftiest baking aspirations may require a small arsenal
of equipment, but these relatively inexpensive tools will dramatically
cut down on your time, mess, and frustration in the kitchen. Below,
our desert-island gadgets and how we like to use them. C . S .

SMALL OFFSE T SPATULA PASTRY BRUSH

Only one tool will make transferring
cookies and spreading icing a total
breeze, and thats a small offset
spatula. The tiny drop between
the blade and handle keeps your
knuckles in the clear.
Always keep one of these around for
dabbing egg wash, removing excess
flour from dough, and washing down
the sides of a pot while making caramel.
Be sure to choose one with natural
bristles (synthetic will burn and kink).

BENCH SCRAPER CANDY THERMOME TER

Whether youre portioning dough
or simply clearing off your work
surface, youll find yourself reaching
for this tool again and again.
A stainless-steel one with a ruled
edge is particularly useful.
Unlike an instant-read, this comes
with a clip that anchors it to the sides
of a saucepan for constant gauging.
And its got clearly demarcated, easy-
to-read temperature linescrucial
for finicky caramels and candies.

FROM P. 134

Key Moment: The Reverse Sear

The perfect rib roast is crusty on the outside and uniformly rosy inside, with no
gray in between. Most cooks rst blast large cuts of meat with high heat
to brown them and then transfer to a low oven to slowly bring the internal
temperature up, but weve found that doing the opposite is much more
effective for large bone-in roasts. Subjecting the meat to searing heat means
that the outer edges dry out and go gray before the center hits 125, the ideal
medium-rare. Starting in a 225 oven gives you more control of the process and
means that as soon as you hit your target internal temp you can quickly brown
the meat in a 500 oven knowing that the inside is on point. R I C K M A RT I N E Z
prep school

FROM P. 123

CHILL AND
CHILLER
To make ice-encased
bottles of spirits even more
festive, were all about
adding garnishes to the
water before freezing,
especially when they go
with the spirits inside
think tequila with chiles,
lime wheels, and mint;
gin with cucumbers and
rosemary; and aquavit
with fennel fronds and
lemon. Rectangular milk
or O.J. cartons work
for most liquors, but for L E AV E I T T O C L E AV E R
wider bottles (looking at
you, Patrn), flat-bottom For cutting through lobsters, we trust a Chinese-style cleaver to get the job done.
gallon-size jugs are Its thick all the way to the tip, giving even the back end of the blade enough heft
perfect. AS H L E Y M AS O N to crack hard shells. But this bruiser is no one-trick pony. We use it for everything from
breaking down hard produce like pineapple to cutting through chicken bones, and its
wide surface is great for scraping cutting boards clean. Plus you dont have to get
precious with it the way you do with a nice chefs knife: Its budget-friendly and sharpens
easily. Dexter-Russell 8 in. Carbon Chinese Cleaver, $28; knifemerchant.com A . M .

FROM P. 100

Feta Go-Getta
The next time you crumble a block of feta over a Greek salad, dont
toss the cloudy brine left behind. That tangy, salty liquid has an
added funk from the cheesethink of it as liquid Parm rindand
can be used anytime you want a subtle avor boost. We like to add it
to the cooking liquid for pasta or beans, using it in a brine for chicken
parts bound for the fryer, or whisking it into salad dressings. C . S .

FROM P. 102

DECORATING
IN CIRCLES
Little chocolate mendiants may
look like a million dollar addition
to your cookie tray, but theyre
dead simple to make. The
important thing is to use good
quality chocolate and to be sure
that youre all set up before you
get started so you can work
cleanly. As far as toppings go, 1. 2. 3.
consider this the time to use Using a piping bag or spoon, place With an offset spatula or the Gently distribute desired toppings
up all the nearly empty bags quarter-size dollops of melted back of a spoon, spread chocolate among the mendiants, taking
of nuts, seeds, and dried fruit chocolate onto a parchment-lined out in a circular motion to care not to smear them. (Watch
in your pantry. A M I E L S TA N E K baking sheet, spacing 2" apart. create neat, even disks. your sleeves!) Chill until set.

1 6 8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
 FROM P. 58

Size Matters
A double bottlea.k.a.
a magnumhas plenty of
wow factor, but theres
a whole world of even larger-
format wines out there. Track
one of these down when you
want to roll up to the party with
the most impressive hostess gift
of all time. M A R I SSA A . R O SS

MAGNUM (1.5 L)

2 bottles of wine,
10 glasses

DOUBLE MAGNUM (3 L)

4 bottles of wine,
20 glasses

JEROBOAM (4.5 L)

6 bottles of wine,
30 glasses

IMPERIAL (6 L)

8 bottles of wine,
40 glasses
FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATIONS: BRUCE HUTCHISON (PUNCH DISPENSER, MENDIANTS);

SALMANAZAR (9 L)
12 bottles of wine,
60 glasses
CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (BRUT, BAKING TOOLS, FETA, WINES).

BALTHAZAR (12 L)

16 bottles of wine,
80 glasses

NEBUCHADNEZZAR (15 L)

20 bottles of wine,
100 glasses
recipe index A look inside
sourcebook
our Fruity SHOPPING LIST
Rum Bundt Cake
SNOWED IN pp. 108119
P. 94 P. 109 IRVING PLACE STUDIO
CAMPER DINNER PLATTER $90;
irvingplacestudio.com
P. 111 LE CREUSET FONDUE POT $300;
lecreuset.com
P. 112 IRVING PLACE STUDIO CAMPER
DINNER PLATE $72; irvingplacestudio.com
P. 116 LE CREUSET DUTCH OVEN $400;
lecreuset.com
P. 116 ELSIE GREEN RUSTIC FRENCH
CUTTING BOARD $110; elsiegreen.com
P. 116 FARIBAULT WOOLEN CHECK BLANKET
$110; bespoketruckee.com
P. 117 SARAH KERSTEN POTTERY LARGE
COVERED BOWL $150; sarahkersten.com

TRAVEL PLANNER
R.S.V.P. pp. 2024
8 HOXTON SQUARE 8 Hoxton Sq.,
London; +44-20-7729-4232;
8hoxtonsquare.com
NORTH 3 Luongo Sq., Providence;
COOK THE COVER SOUPS Coq au Vin with DESSERTS 401-421-1100; foodbynorth.com
Boozy Gummy Garlic Soup with Cocoa Powder p. 118 Black-and-White ROOT DOWN 1600 W. 33rd Ave.,
Candies p. 105 Potatoes and Duck Two Ways Halvah p. 144 Denver; 303-993-4200;
APPETIZERS Poached Eggs p. 119 with Clementine- Boozy Gummy rootdowndenver.com
Root Vegetable Fig Relish p. 128 Candies p. 105 HOLIDAY ESCAPE p. 80
Baked Three-Cheese VEGE TARIAN
Onion Dip with Chive Zoodle Soup Chocolate Blackout OTTOLENGHI 63 Ledbury Rd., London;
with Bacon and Cold Sesame Cookies p. 145 +44-20-7727-1121; ottolenghi.co.uk
and Peperoncini p. 99
Basil Oil p. 99 Noodles Chocolate-Covered TRUE COLORS p. 92
Cheese Fondue with Broccoli Marshmallow SEA BISCUIT BAKERY 67 Pascal Ave.,
with Beer and MAIN COURSES
and Kale p. 24 Cookies p. 143 Rockport, ME; 207-230-8103;
Bourbon p. 118 SEAFOOD seabiscuitbakery.me
Navy Bean and Free-Form Chocolate
Cheesy Sesame Lobster Fra Escarole Stew Candies p. 102 SMOKE SIGNALS 590 Barnard Rd.,
Phyllo Bites p. 60 Diavolo p. 135 with Feta and Olives Fruity Rum Bundt Marshall, NC; smokesignalsbaking.com
Escargot with Garlic- MEAT p. 100 Cake p. 102 MURICE 921 SW Oak St., Portland, OR;
Parsley Butter p. 115 Green Curry Pork Shallot Tarte Tatin Grapefruit-Vanilla 503-224-9921; mauricepdx.com
Pico de Gallo Tenderloin p. 20 p. 22 Shortbread p. 144 CLEANS UP REAL NICE p. 96

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
Lamb Shanks with Green Shakshuka SUPERIORITY BURGER 430 E. Ninth St.,NYC;
Verde p. 99 Hazelnut and
Pomegranate p. 152 Buckwheat 212-256-1192; superiorityburger.com
Potato Blinis p. 125
and Walnuts p. 134 VEGETABLES, Financiers with SNOWED IN pp. 108119
BEVERAGES SIDE DISHES Figs p. 148 LUDOBIRD Universal CityWalk, 100
Reverse Sear
Build a Spritz p. 54 Rib-Eye Roast with NutellaBrown Universal City Plaza, Universal City, CA
Golden Potato
Champagne Fennel and Cake p. 115 Butter Crispies PETIT TROIS 718 Highland Ave.,
Cocktail p. 54 Rosemary p. 134 p. 144 Los Angeles; petittrois.com
Winter Salad with
Spicy-Tamarind- Brussels Sprouts Salted Black TROIS MEC 716 Highland Ave.,
Cran Royale p. 54
and-Honey-Glazed and Citrus p. 152 Licorice Caramels Los Angeles; troismec.com
Sparkling Julep p. 54 p. 143
Spiral Ham p. 134 SUGAR RUSH! pp. 136145
Under-the-Mistletoe MISCELLANEOUS, Simple Christmas ELSKE 1350 W. Randolph St., Chicago;
Punch p. 99 Steak au Poivre CONDIMENTS Cookies p. 102 elskerestaurant.com
p. 115 Beet Red Food
BREAKFAST NOSH IN THE NEW YEAR pp. 120125
PASTA Dye p. 92 HEADWATERS 1001 SW Broadway,
Beet-Cured Lobster Fra Diavolo Cabbage Blue Portland, OR; 503-790-7752;
Salmon p. 152 p. 135 Food Dye p. 92 FOR NUTRITIONAL headwaterspdx.com
Broccoli and Cheese POULTRY Milk Chocolate INFO FOR THE
PETROSSIAN 182 W. 58th St., NYC;
Quiche p. 148 Sauce p. 119 RECIPES IN THIS
212-245-2214; petrossian.com
Braised Chicken ISSUE, GO TO
Basic Crepes p. 118 Thighs with Suzette Sauce p. 119 SUNNY SIDE UP pp. 146153
BONAPPETIT.COM
Green Shakshuka Squash and Mustard Turmeric Yellow /RECIPES SQIRL 720 N. Virgil Ave., No. 4,
p. 152 Greens p. 100 Food Dye p. 92 Los Angeles; 323-284-8147; sqirlla.com

BON APPTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2016 COND NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 61, NO. 12. Bon Apptit (ISSN 0006-
6990) is published monthly (except for a combined issue in December/January) by Cond Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Charles H. Townsend, Chairman; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Ofcer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Ofcer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Ofcer. Periodicals
postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing ofces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return
undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS
TO Bon Apptit, P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037-0613. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to Bon Apptit, P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037-0613, call
800-765-9419, or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Post Ofce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further
obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatised with your subscription, let us know. You will
receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Apptit Magazine, 1 World
Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please e-mail reprints@condenast.com or call Wrights Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit
us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Cond Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer
products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037-0613 or call 800-765-9419. BON APPTIT IS
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS,
AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS,
UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY BON APPTIT IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

17 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 17
BON APPTIT
Statement required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership,
Management and Circulation of BON APPTIT, published monthly
(12 issues), for October 1, 2016. Publication No. 504-750.
Annual subscription price $24.00.

1. Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center,

New York, NY 10007.
2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the
Publisher is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
3. The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editor and Director of
Strategy & Operations are: Publisher, Pamela Drucker Mann,
One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007;
Editor, Adam Rapoport, One World Trade Center, New York, NY
10007; Director of Strategy & Operations, Betty Wong Ortiz,
One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., published
through its Cond Nast division, One World Trade Center,
New York, New York 10007. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly
through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate
parent, Advance Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road,
Staten Island, New York 10305.
5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders
owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds,
mortgages or other securities are: None.
6. Extent and nature of circulation
Average No. Copies Single Issue
each issue during nearest to
preceding 12 months filing date

a. Total No. Copies 1,653,243 1,650,696

b. Paid Circulation

(1) Mailed Outside-County 1,301,861 1,304,778

Paid Subscriptions Stated
on PS Form 3541

(2) Mailed In-County Paid 0 0

Subscriptions Stated
on PS Form 3541

(3) Paid Distribution Outside 73,804 73,667

the Mails Including Sales
Through Dealers and Carriers,
Street Vendors, Counter
Sales, and Other Paid
Distribution Outside USPS

(4) Paid Distribution by 0 0
Other Classes of Mail
Through the USPS

c. Total Paid Distribution 1,375,665 1,378,445

d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution

(1) Free or Nominal Rate 119,183 120,759
Outside-County
Copies included on
PS Form 3541

(2) Free or Nominal Rate 0 0

In-County Copies included
on PS Form 3541

(3) Free or Nominal Rate 0 0

Copies Mailed
at Other Classes
Through the USPS

(4) Free or Nominal Rate 11,666 13,492

Distribution
Outside the Mail

e. Total Free or Nominal 130,849 134,251

Rate Distribution

f. Total Distribution 1,506,514 1,512,696

g. Copies Not Distributed 146,728 138,000

h. Total 1,653,243 1,650,696

i. Percent Paid 91.31% 91.13%

j. Paid Electronic Copies 35,401 30,435

k. Total Paid Print Copies 1,411,067 1,408,880

(line 15c) + Paid
Electronic Copies

l. Total Print Distribution 1,541,916 1,543,131

(line 15f) + Paid
Electronic Copies

m. Percent Paid 91.51% 91.30%

(Both Print & Electronic Copies)

7. I certify that all information furnished

on this form is true and complete.
(Signed) David E. Geithner,
Vice President and Treasurer
b.o.t.n.
B AC K O F T H E N A P K I N

Drawn in
Los Angeles on
October 4, 2016

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

R YA N S E A C R E S T
A gentle reminder to Ryan Seacrests pals: Hes booked solid on December 31. To this day, some of
my friends still text: Where should we go? says the host of ABCs New Years Rockin Eve. I keep telling
them, You should know I have to work! Seacrest honors a few NYE traditions the night of his marathon
broadcast, like hugging someone within arms reach when the ball drops (could be a crew member, could
be a pop star) and hitting Nobu Fifty Seven at 2 a.m. for a private postshow dinner with producers and
performers (We order the yellowtail and the rock shrimp tempura. As we say on the radio, Play us the hits.).
Given his unique end-of-year schedule, Seacrest covets the time he spends with his family the week before,
gathered around a traditional Swiss fondue set. We take our pots wherever we travel for Christmas, he
says. In South Africa, we rolled in with boxes of bowls and pots. One year we were on a boatwe even
brought the forks. To learn more about Seacrests fon-dos (his words!), see the napkin. DAV ID WALTE R S

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU