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WHOs tribute
Can stem cells treat to women
hypertension?
A P R I L 2 01 4 2
T he recent development of low-cost in vitro tube. Any resulting embryo is examined under a
fertilization (IVF) programs may expand ac- microscope before transfer.
cess to infertility treatment not only in resource- In a proof-of-principle study of IVF patients
poor countries, but also in the developed world. aged <36 years with at least eight oocytes avail-
One innovative program, developed at the able for fertilization, the low-cost culture method
University of Colorado Boulder (UC-Boulder), resulted in similar rates of fertilization and em-
US, reduces the cost of IVF to just around USD bryo cleavage compared with conventional IVF
250 per cycle. culture systems. [European Society of Human
The researchers made this possible by sim- Reproduction and Embryology 2013 Annual
plifying the entire procedure of IVF, using gener- Meeting, abstract 14]
ic fertility drugs and basic laboratory equipment Importantly, the ongoing pregnancy rate was
that can fit inside a shoebox, explained Profes- 30.4 percent similar to rates achieved in con-
sor Gab Kovacs of Monash IVF and Monash ventional IVF programs. According to the re-
University, Melbourne, Australia. Kovacs was searchers, this means infertility care may now
speaking during the 19th World Congress on be universally accessible.
Controversies in Obstetrics, Gynecology & In- In June 2013, Australias largest infertility
fertility (COGI) held recently in Macau. treatment provider launched low-cost IVF clinics
Using two test tubes and inexpensive chemi- in low-income suburbs of Sydney, Melbourne
cals, the UC-Boulder researchers developed a and Brisbane, providing IVF treatment with
low-cost embryo culture method that can gen- minimal stimulation and monitoring. This was
erate conditions very similar to what others are followed by another treatment provider, who
generating with a USD 60,000 incubator. launched a low-intervention IVF service with
In the first test tube, citric acid and sodium electronic interface with patients.
bicarbonate are used to prepare a solution con- While the success rates may be lower with
taining carbon dioxide, which creates the ideal these models, they offer affordable IVF services
conditions for fertilization, he explained. This to patients who would otherwise have struggled
is then piped into the second test tube, where to access the full service, said Kovacs.
A P R I L 2 01 4 3
C hinas tuberculosis (TB) control policies ally recommended DOTS strategy in 13 prov-
are being credited for leading to a marked inces containing half the population.
reduction in the prevalence of the disease in the Two national surveys on the prevalence of
country by over a half in the past 20 years. TB were conducted in 1990, and in 2000, when
A recently published study, involving a the program was rolled out across the country.
20-year-long analysis of Chinas national survey Over that decade, it was found that the number
data, has indicated a drop in TB prevalence from of TB cases was reduced by about 30 percent
170 to 59 per 100,000 people. [Lancet 2014. in the areas where the DOTS program was im-
doi:10.1016/S0140-6736(13)62639-2] plemented. Nationally however, the number of
The fall follows a scale-up of the directly ob- cases dropped by just 19 percent.
served treatment short-course (DOTS) strategy Most recently, a survey of TB prevalence was
from half the population when it was first intro- conducted in 2010 to explore the impact, if any,
duced in the 1990s, to the entire country after of the introduction of the DOTS program nation-
2000. wide. Around 253,000 individuals aged 15 years
One of the key global TB targets set by the and above took part in the survey and the results
Stop TB Partnership aims to reduce tuberculo- showed a drop of 57 percent, with 70 percent of
sis prevalence by 50 percent between 1990 and the total reduction in smear-positive prevalence
2015. This study in China is the first to show the (78 of 111 cases per 100,000 population) taking
feasibility of achieving such a target, and Chi- place after 2000. Of these, 87 percent were cas-
na achieved this 5 years earlier than the target es already diagnosed with TB prior to the survey,
date, said Dr. Yu Wang, study leader, Chinese with the number of cases treated using the DOTS
Center for Disease Control and Prevention, strategy increasing from 15 percent in 2000, to 66
based in Beijing, China. Huge improvements in percent in 2010. These cases also contributed to
TB treatment, driven by a major shift in treatment a reduction in the percentage of treatment default
from hospitals to local public health centers im- (from 43 percent to 22 percent; p<0.0001) and
plementing the DOTS strategy, were largely re- retreatment cases (from 84 percent to 31 per-
sponsible for this success. cent; p<0.0001).
China is one of the largest contributors to the The DOTS program has been much more
global TB pandemic, with 1 million new cases effective in reducing the prevalence of tubercu-
each year, accounting for 11 percent of all new losis in known cases than in new cases, wrote
A P R I L 2 01 4 4
T he uptake of e-cigarette use by nicotine have had some success, they now appear to
consumers in the US and Europe over the be unraveling.
past 5-7 years has been nothing short of re- Major media outlets in the US and Europe
markable. Millions of people in these markets have begun to cast their nets wider in terms of
have now switched from smoking to vaping. who they interview for e-cigarette stories and
However, not everyone is happy, convinced have provided better, more balanced coverage
or willing to accept this new development of this hotly contested topic. Could it really be
and well-funded public relations campaigns that health reporters (and even the general pub-
have sprung up attempting to persuade pol- lic) are becoming increasingly skeptical about
icy-makers, the media and the public that the possible hazards of e-cigarettes? It does
e-cigarettes should be regulated or banned seem that some have begun to question the sci-
because they are harmful or a gateway to entific credibility of negative e-cigarette-related
tobacco smoking. While these campaigns studies.
A P R I L 2 01 4 FORUM 6
Jennifer Abel took a swipe at US policy makers What does common sense tell us?
and legislators who have lobbied or voted for While many opponents of e-cigarettes may
bans or regulation of e-cigarettes, suggesting be prone to fear, others have been guided by
that such behavior is spurned on by magical be- simple bias or a lack of information.
liefs.[http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news/ Vested interests (a list of which would be be-
magical-beliefs-spawn-e-cig-bans-030514.html] yond the scope of this article) are a likely driver
She described a historical precedent for re- for many. Many industries and institutions rely
sistance to new technology. Primitive peoples on nicotine consumers to continue using the
who relied on magic rather than science to ex- more harmful, combustible tobacco products.
plain how the world works often believed in what Others appear to possess an ideological dislike
is known as sympathetic magic the idea that of smokers so strong that they would prefer the
if item A looks like item B, that means A either status quo to remain, ie, for cigarettes to retain
shares Bs traits or gives you actual power over their harmful nature.
B, wrote Abel. However, there is no escaping new technol-
And belief in sympathetic magic appears to ogy. What is needed therefore are rational poli-
be enjoying a renaissance among those who cies informed by a scientific evidence-based ap-
oppose e-cigarettes or e-cigs, basically on the proach, rather than agenda-driven ideological
grounds that a battery-operated metal tube emit- beliefs.
ting water vapor looks like a burning tobacco cig-
arette emitting cancerous smoke... she added. Greg Town, Managing Editor
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 8
U
ltimately, biosimilars are there
to benefit patients and healthcare In China alone, the biosimilar market is worth USD 670
million
providers by reducing costs and
ercept, for example, was launched in China in
delivering biologic therapy
2006, 5 years before the reference product be-
to more patients
came available.
With biosimilars accounting for 40 percent of Costing on average 60 percent less than the
Chinas recombinant biologic product sales, the reference biologics, these domestic biosimilars
country has seen a compound annual growth are attractive treatment options for a growing
rate of 25-30 percent in the industry over the last number of Chinese patients with rheumatoid
10 years. arthritis, psoriasis, inflammatory bowel disease
This growth was led by a group of domes- and cancer.
tic products, said Kudrin. In fact, the first Targeted therapies for cancer, for example,
biosimilars made in China were approved and are unaffordable to many patients in China as
launched even before the reference biologics some of the reference products cost more than
entered the Chinese market. Biosimilar etan- the average annual income of urban employ-
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 9
within a partnership, as well as one that occurs in Dominguez warned that these gender-specific
a larger social and relational context, said study findings should be interpreted with caution due
author Dr. Sari M. van Anders of the University to the small sample size of women partners and
of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan, US, and col- time lapse between the postpartum period and
leagues. the collection of data.
While most studies on postpartum sexu- This small caveat notwithstanding, the study
ality focus on the birth mother, few if any have provides a clearer window in which to view the
examined the role of sexuality in the mothers postpartum sexuality of co-parents, how postpar-
partner and whether this in turn influences the tum sexuality may vary between partners gen-
birth mothers perception of her own sexuality, der, and the idiosyncratic changes in sexual ac-
said Dr. Juan Dominguez, principal investigator tivity that follow parturition, added Dominguez.
of the Neuroendocrinology and Motivation Lab at These findings will be a source of information for
the University of Texas at Austins Department of health professionals who counsel mothers after
Psychology. birth.
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 12
With the development of new treatments, In spite of these known risk factors for SCD
many patients with sickle cell disease are now mortality, Klings said there is no standardized
surviving long enough to develop pulmonary approach for patient treatment and follow-up.
hypertension, with an estimated prevalence of Among the recommendations, the guidelines
6 to 11 percent, said Associate Professor Eliza- recommend hydroxyurea as first-line therapy
beth S. Klings of the Boston University School for SCD patients with increased mortality risk.
of Medicine and ATS guideline committee chair. Chronic transfusions were a less preferable al-
[Am J Respir Crit Care Med 189:6;727-740] ternative for patients who were not candidates
The panel of researchers advised that right for hydroxyurea.
heart catheterization (RHC) was the most reli- Most patients with confirmed PH were also
able way to diagnose PH. Doppler echocardiog- not likely candidates for targeted pulmonary ar-
raphy is a less invasive test but it has only 25 terial hypertension therapy, unlike SCD patients
percent positive predictive value for moderate with other mortality risk factors, and clinicians
tricuspid regurgitant jet velocity (TRV), although should opt instead for a trial of a prostanoid or
it can be used to confirm diagnosis in conjunc- an endothelin receptor antagonist.
tion with other tests. We need to continue our research efforts
A review of related literature showed that into this disease and its management to under-
elevated TRV and increased serum N-terminal stand what the optimal treatment regimen for
pro-brain natriuretic peptide (NT-pro-BNP) levels these patients is, Klings said. Most of our cur-
are also independent risk factors for mortality in rent recommendations are limited by a lack of
SCD patients. large-scale clinical trials in this population.
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 14
such as when putting on their shoes or socks, remained low. [J Am Cardiol 2014;2:24-31]
said Professor Jennifer Thibodeau from the Uni- Our findings confirmed what we have been
versity of Texas Southwestern Medical Center in seeing in our patients, said Thibodeau. These
Dallas, Texas, US. Some patients thought they patients had too much fluid in their bodies, caus-
were short of breath because they were out of ing elevated right and left ventricular filling pres-
shape or overweight. sures. When they bent forward, these pressures
To determine the frequency and hemody- increased even more.
namic correlates of bendopnea with heart fail- Accurate assessment of hemodynamic sta-
ure, Thibodeau and colleagues assessed 102 tus is critical to the proper treatment of heart
adult patients with systolic heart failure referred failure. Bendopnea may be useful for physicians
to a cath lab unit for right heart catheterization who are not adept at estimating jugular venous
between June 2010 and May 2012. Approxi- pressure, said Thibodeau. She however cau-
mately one-third (n=29) of the study cohort tioned that bendopnea is not a risk factor for
had bendopnea, with median time to onset of heart failure, rather a symptom that patients are
8 seconds. Patients with bendopnea had higher becoming sicker and may need to adjust their
supine right atrial pressure (RAP, p=0.001) and medications or treatment.
pulmonary capillary wedge pressure (PCWP, As the current study consisted only of pa-
p=0.0004) and lower pulmonary artery oxygen tients referred for right-heart catheterization, ad-
saturation and cardiac index (CI) compared with ditional studies are warranted to determine the
those without bendopnea. RAP and PCWP fur- prevalence of bendopnea in the general heart
ther increased with bending, but cardiac index failure population, the investigators said.
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 15
B
y 2035, one in 10 of the worlds
population will have diabetes
unless there is radical change.
People in urban areas will be
particularly vulnerable. Socially
Diabetes affects 382 million people globally.
and economically, this diabetes
epidemic will be very costly. a healthy and supportive environment not only
for people living with diabetes, but also those at
In order for a city to be labeled diabetes risk of developing the disease.
aware, it would need to show that its public ser- Speaking about the prevalence of diabe-
vices and businesses are committed to creating tes and its effects, Dr. Petra Wilson, CEO, IDF,
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 19
said: By 2035, one in 10 of the worlds popu- Providing people with mobile information on
lation will have diabetes unless there is radical healthier places to eat, shop and exercise in cit-
change. People in urban areas will be partic- ies is the first step toward making the healthy
ularly vulnerable. Socially and economically, choice the easy choice. Information is the key
this diabetes epidemic will be very costly. It to enabling healthy choices, said Mr. Brian
is important that we find new ways of work- OConnor, chair of the ECHAlliance, when asked
ing across all sectors to provide people with about the new partnership.
targeted information on healthier lifestyle op- Diabetes is a disease that affects some 382
tions. million people worldwide, or 8.3 percent of the
Some ways in which a city can become dia- global population [International Diabetes Feder-
betes aware are by providing its residents with ation, IDF Diabetes Atlas, 6th edn. Brussels, Bel-
important lifestyle tools such as the nutritional gium: International Diabetes Federation, 2013.
information of restaurants or by ensuring that all http://www.idf.org/diabetesatlas]. It is predicted
green spaces such as parks are safe and acces- that this number will rise to 592 million by the
sible for exercise. year 2035.
A P R I L 2 01 4 N E WS 20
months of therapy: adjusted HR 0.52, 95% CI percutaneous coronary intervention on re-hospitalization for acute
0.290.92, p=0.02; 15 months of therapy: ad- coronary syndrome. BMC Cardiovascular Disorders 2014;14:21
A P R I L 2 01 4 R E S E A R C H R E V I E WS 23
35 percent between 2004 and 2010 (adjusted female sex workers before and after implementation of harm
odds ratio [OR] 0.65; 95% CI 0.411.03, p=0.07), reduction programs in a high drug-using area of China. PLOS One
global population, it is estimated to have caused COPD has no cure yet, but its symptoms are
the death of 3 million people in 2011. [WHO, pharmacological manageable and its progres-
Fact Sheet N 310, July 2013] sion can be delayed. [GOLD Report, updated
Smoking tobacco is the most common and version 2013]
best-studied risk factor for the development of The major treatment goals are to relieve
COPD. Other contributing factors, such as air symptoms, manage stable COPD with associ-
pollution from biomass fuels and poorly vent- ated illnesses, improve the exercise tolerance
ed cooking fires, are thought to play a smaller and prevent and treat acute exacerbations.
role [GOLD Report, updated version 2013]. It [Am J Respir Crit Care Med 2007;176:532-555].
is important to remember however that non- Treatment options may include supplemental
smokers are also affected by the disease as oxygen, corticosteroids and long-term antibiot-
shown in different epidemiologic studies [Chest ics. However, inhaled bronchodilators, includ-
2011;139:752-763, Am J Med 2005;118:1364- ing long-acting muscarinic antagonists (LAMAs)
1372]. are the cornerstone of the pharmacological
COPD results from several pathological pro- therapy. LAMAs seem to have a positive impact
cesses interacting on a complex background of on prevention and control of symptoms, sever-
genetic determinants, lung growth, and environ- ity and rate of exacerbations, quality of life, and
mental stimuli. [Lancet 2012;379:1341-1351] exercise capacity [Ther Clin Risk Manag 2013;9:
Inflammation is the respiratory tracts normal 341-353]. Therefore they are recognized as first-
reaction to the inhalation of irritants. However, line maintenance therapy in COPD. Before the
the physiological response seems to be differ- approval of glycopyrronium bromide, tiotropium
ent in individuals who develop COPD. In those was the only LAMA approved for the manage-
patients, a chronic amplified inflammatory reac- ment of COPD. [GOLD Report, updated version
tion with increased numbers of specific immune 2013, N Engl J Med 2010;362:1407-1416]
cells can be found in the airways, lung paren-
chyma and pulmonary vasculature [Lancet Glycopyrronium bromide
2004;364:709-721]. The persistent inflammation Pharmacology and pharmacodynamics
causes fibrosis and narrowing of the small air- Glycopyrronium bromide is a synthetic qua-
ways (obstructive bronchiolitis) and destruction ternary ammonium compound belonging to the
of the lung parenchyma (emphysema). These LAMA drug class.
alterations lead to air trapping and progressive The drug acts as a competitive antagonist
poor airflow causing dyspnea and other symp- by binding to muscarinic receptors in bronchial
toms of COPD. In general, the inflammatory and smooth muscle and thereby inhibiting acetyl-
structural changes in the airways increase with choline-induced bronchoconstriction. The mol-
disease severity and persist also on smoking ecule binds with different affinities to all five sub-
cessation. types of the muscarinic receptor (M1M5). [Int J
A P R I L 2 01 4 DR U G P R O F I L E 26
receiving glycopyrronium bromide or tiotro- The results from the pivotal GLOW trials sug-
pium compared with those receiving placebo gest that NVA237 is safe and well tolerated.
(p<0.001). These differences were maintained [Ther Clin Risk Manag 2013;9:341-353, BMC
at 12 months, though lung function declined in Pulmonary Medicine 2014;14:4]. The adverse
all groups. effects of NVA237 are typical of an inhaled an-
Compared with placebo, glycopyrronium bro- timuscarinic agent, the most common being
mide produced significant improvements in dys- dry mouth, nasopharyngitis, insomnia and gas-
pnea and health status and significantly reduced troenteritis. Like other anticholinergic drugs,
the risk of moderate-to-severe COPD exacerba- NVA237 should be used with caution in patients
tions (p=0.001) and the use of rescue medica- with narrow-angle glaucoma or urinary reten-
tion (p=0.039). Glycopyrronium bromide and tion. [Seebri Breezhaler Product Monograph,
tiotropium were comparable for all outcomes vs Novartis, 12/2013]
placebo. [Eur Respir J 2012;40:1106-1114]
Glycopyrronium bromide significantly in- Future directions
creased mean cycling exercise time and im- There is a growing focus on a strategy of
proved leg discomfort and exertional breath- maximal bronchodilation in patients with COPD,
lessness compared with placebo in the smaller since a single bronchodilator may not be ad-
GLOW 3 trial, which involved 108 patients. [Int J equate for many individuals. At the present
COPD 2012;7:503-551]. time, more studies are needed to clarity when
The GLOW 5 study recently compared gly- to initiate a combination therapy of drugs from
copyrronium bromide with tiotropium in 657 pa- different classes. However, there is growing evi-
tients with moderate-to-severe COPD. After 12 dence that combination therapies of LAMAs and
weeks, both treatments showed similar efficacy long-acting beta2-agonists (LABAs) are more
and safety, but a faster onset of action on the efficacious in improving trough FEV1, dyspnea,
first day was seen with glycopyrronium bromide. quality of life, and use of rescue medication than
[BMC Pulmonary Medicine 2014;14:4] these agents used alone. [Ther Clin Risk Man-
ag 2013;9:341-353, Respir Med 2010;104:995-
Dosing and adverse effects 1004]
The recommended dosage of glycopyrroni- At the present time, there are several new
um bromide (NVA237) is the once-daily inhala- LABA/LAMA combinations in development
tion of the content of one 50 g capsule using and being studied for use in the management
a suitable inhaler. [Seebri Breezhaler Product of COPD. [Expert Rev Respir Med 2012;6:285-
Monograph, Novartis, 12/2013] 299]
A P R I L 2 01 4 CO N F E R E N C E COV E R AG E 28
Effective hypertension management not cost much but will significantly help control
Several barriers affect the management of the blood pressure. Based on Japans experi-
hypertension. One of these is the high incidence ence, decreasing the daily salt intake from 26
of cough with angiotensin-converting enzyme grams to 12 grams per day reduced the systolic
inhibitors (ACEi) among Asians, compared to blood pressure by 18mmHg in both genders.
Caucasians, Blacks or Hispanics. In China, the Stroke rates were also reduce by 83 percent.
incidence of cough can be as high as 50 per- [APSH Workshop, 2007]
cent, said Castillo. There is a direct relationship between stroke
Managing hypertension in a low-resource mortality rate and the level of sodium measured
setting is also a challenge as the society has to by urinary excretion as grams of salt per day. Its
address an ideal control strategy. This is a chal- not only for stroke but CHD events and all-cause
lenge... when the resources are scarce, we have mortality [which] can be significantly reduced
to be able to identify those who are high-risk to by salt intake, said Castillo.
develop complications so that we can prioritize The Japanese approach is doable, noted
treatment of these patients, said the speaker. Castillo, but it requires time. The integrative ap-
Simple risk assessment tools are be- proach include intensive and sustained public
ing developed and may help identify high education, food delivery system, refrigeration,
risk patients without the need for expen- exposure to global eating habits, and provision
sive laboratory tests. This way, patients for low-salt alternatives. [APSH Workshop, 2007]
who need treatment can be identified and Eighty-percent of a persons salt intake
prioritized. comes from packaged and restaurant food and
The 24-hour ambulatory blood pressure mon- only about 10 percent comes from the salt add-
itoring may also not be feasible in low-resource ed during cooking. Castillo said that the Food
settings where there are problematic cases of and Drug Administration (FDA Philippines) can
hypertension. As an alternative, Castillo sug- try to require manufacturers to indicate on their
gested the use of home blood pressure moni- product labels the amount of sodium. This way,
toring. This can be done by two consecutive consumers can have informed choice.
seated measurements at least 1 minute apart The polypill may also benefit patients with
using either a manual or a digital sphygmoma- hypertension. These are safe, inexpensive and
nometer. The blood pressure reading can be easily dispensed, requiring minimal follow-up.
taken twice daily for a week. This monitoring will This is one tool that companies with scarce fi-
help the physician arrive at the average blood nancial resources can utilize. [Using submaxi-
pressure, ruling out white coat hypertension in mal doses of a few antihypertensives] might be
the process. better than maximizing the dose of one antihy-
The control of salt intake was described by pertensive drug and that can favorably impact
Castillo as one important intervention which will the decreased coronary hearts disease events
A P R I L 2 01 4 CO N F E R E N C E COV E R AG E 30
and strokes in hypertensive patients, said Cas- ease burden caused by hypertension and relat-
tillo. ed complications. There must be strong political
The multifaceted preventative and treatment and social will as well as population interven-
programs for hypertension control include inten- tion. Patients must be treated holistically for car-
sified lifestyle interventions, reduction of salt in- diovascular risk reduction.
take by 50 percent, increased potassium intake, Castillo encouraged physicians to become
decreased saturated fat intake and increased facilitators for change, playing an active role in
physical activity. Aside from individual patient integrating multisectoral strategy for individual,
education, Castillo stressed the importance of community and population control of hyperten-
involving the community and its leaders, the sion.
food industry and the law-making bodies. We may not be able to solve the entire prob-
lem completely by ourselves but we can take
A vision for Asia Pacific the initiative to serve as the catalyst, to move
The vision of the Asia Pacific Society of everyone to rally behind the cause and goal
Hypertension is to decrease the prevalence of of controlling hypertension in the population,
hypertension and significantly reduce the dis- concluded Castillo.
A P R I L 2 01 4 CO N F E R E N C E COV E R AG E 31
The FREE MIMS app delivers critical prescribing information, medical news
and CME articles as well as clinical calculators essential to physicians daily
practice needs.
With MIMS available across multiple platforms and devices, you can now easily
and conveniently find the most up-to-date and relevant drug information you
need anytime, anywhere.
other heart disease. Daytime BP, on the other blood pressure, such as during pregnancy or
hand, had superior predictive value for hemor- in the presence of diabetes and metabolic syn-
rhagic stroke. drome, when complications can occur at lower
Still, people do not develop cardiovascular levels of elevated blood pressure.
damage at the same rate, Morgan said. With all the variations and problems asso-
Some people will have very high blood pres- ciated with blood pressure, let alone the prob-
sure and never get complications. Others with lems and inaccuracies in measurement, I am
relatively normal blood pressure might develop amazed that we have been so successful in
left ventricular heart disease. altering the lives of the people that we treat,
Certain conditions can cause changes in Morgan said.
A P R I L 2 01 4 CO N F E R E N C E COV E R AG E 39
score the need for change. Most of this work is On this International Womens Day, let me
unsupported, unrecognized and unpaid. thank these women for a level of dedication
Polio is on the verge of eradication, largely that can improve the world in a permanent
thanks to the millions of women from vacci- way.
nators to administrators to medical doctors and
mothers who have made vaccination and pro- Source: WHO [Available at: www.who.int/mediacentre/news/state-
Penhnot just people on holiday, but peo- explains the Khmer Rouge regime though
ple investing in property and new business- the eyes of a young girl.
es, working for NGOs, and quite a number Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, better
teaching English. A lot of Cambodians, too, known simply as S-21, is the first stop. It was
seem to be doing very well out of the boom a school before the Khmer Rouge took con-
times in the city. However, a huge wealth dis- trol of Cambodia in 1975. It was converted
parity is obvious. There are poor street kids into a notorious prison which housed 20,000
and people living in extreme poverty on the people. Only seven survived. The rooms dis-
streets, alongside huge numbers of very luxu- play rows upon rows of photos of the victims
rious cars. Range Rover must love Cambo- who were sent here. It is harrowing to look
dia; I have never seen so many of them in into their unblinking faces, and especially to
one place. consider the number of children sent there
This is a city vibrant with contrasts old for political crimes who faced a terrible end
and new, young and old, rich and poor, the to their lives.
packed backstreets crammed around the Tours will usually then drive you out to the
wide French boulevards. And it is never Killing Fields, about 15km from the city cen-
more apparent than when considering the ter. This site houses a memorial, museum
promise of the city in the present and the and a skull-filled stupa which commemorate
horrors of its past. the people who died there, and in the 308
As a tourist and really, as a human being, other mass grave sites that have been found
one of the main things to do in Phnom Penh across Cambodia. An audio tour is available,
is to find out more about the Khmer Rouge. and recommended to get a better under-
Youll be offered tours from every tuk-tuk standing of what happened there.
driver, and at any hotel or guesthouse you The tour ends with the same warning as
stay at. The Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, the museum at Auschwitz; this memorials
was responsible for a horrific genocide they purpose is to remind people of what hap-
inflicted on their own people. In the 4 years pened so they can ensure it doesnt happen
from 1975 to 1979, it is estimated that 2 mil- again. They are both worth visiting. Much
lion people were killed, out of a total popula- like visiting World War II concentration camp
tion of 8 million. Two main sites that chronicle memorials, though, these visits will leave
this atrocity are the Killing Fields and S-21, a you contemplating the terrible things we do
prison. Both of these are museums and me- to each other.
morials. A good read prior to visiting is First However, if that doesnt appeal there is a
They Killed my Father, by Loung Ung, which lot more to Phnom Penh today than these
A P R I L 2 01 4 A F TE R H O U R S 48
tragic reminders. There is a lot to see of its fluenced options too. These can range from
ancient history. Visit the Royal Palace where street carts to fine dining, all at very reason-
the king still resides. It is filled with temples, able prices. New restaurants, bars and cof-
including the extravagant Silver Pagoda, fee shops are opening constantly. A must
decorated with 5 tons of silver and Italian try is baguette served with pate and a few
marble. It is a very tranquil place to spend a pickles. They are available all over town from
few hours away from the bustle of the streets little shops or vendors.
outside. A stroll down the river front will lead The impressive central market is a huge
you to the National Museum which is set in 1930s Art Deco dome structure, and well
lovely gardens and inside a sandstone build- worth a visit. It houses organized rows of a
ing, built in 1917 in the Khmer style. wide range of goods, from fish to furniture.
Sisowath Quay on the Tonle Sap riverfront You may also wish to pop across to the Rus-
is great for an evening amble. Grab a drink sian market for a shopping and bartering ad-
at the iconic Foreign Correspondents Club, venture.
especially popular during their happy hour Phnom Penh is a rapidly changing city.
between 5pm and 7pm. There is some great While there are obvious problems from pov-
food available nearby too. A mix of Khmer, erty to traffic snarls visitors will take plenty
Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian, with nu- away from the sheer energy of the place and
merous Western and especially French-in- the positive attitude of its people.
A P R I L 2 01 4 H U MO R 49
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ISSN 1608-5086