Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, suitable Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with for competent DIY experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience mechanic mechanic or professional
Specifications
General
Type Manual, five forward speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on all
forward speeds
Designation:
1124 cc and 1360 cc models MA
1580 cc and larger-engined models BE3
Transmission code:
H1A (1124 cc) and KDY (1360 cc) engines CB 04 or CB 60
HDZ (11 24 cc) engine CB 06 or CB 62
K2D (1360 cc) engine CB 05 or CB 61
KDX (1360 cc) engine CB 60
B4A and BDY (1580 cc) engines CJ 84
D6E and DKZ (1905 cc) engines CJ 85
LFZ (1761 cc) engine CL 34 or CJ 84
RFX (1998 cc 8-valve) engine CL 35 or CJ 85
RFY (1998 cc 16-valve) engine CL 46
Note: Refer to Chapter 2 for further information on engine code identification
Ratios (typical)
Transmission code CB:
1st 3.417 : 1
2nd 1.810 : 1
3rd 1.276 : 1
4th 0.975 : 1
5th 0.767 : 1
Reverse 3.583 : 1
Final drive 4.286 : 1
Transmission codes CJ and CL:
1st 3.455 : 1
2nd 1.850 : 1
3rd 1.360 : 1
4th 1.069 : 1
5th 0.865 : 1
Reverse 3.333 : 1
Final drive 3.750 : 1
Lubrication
Recommended oil Total transmission BV 75/80W
Capacity 2.0 litres
Recommended gearchange linkage grease Esso Norva 275 or Total Multis G6
7A•2 Manual transmission
Since the synchro-hubs are splined to the cones are formed on the mating faces of the
output shaft, this locks the pinion to the shaft, baulk rings and gear pinions.
1 General information so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure 5 Two different manual transmission units
that gear-changing can be made quickly and are used on the models covered in this
1 The transmission is contained in a cast- quietly, a synchro-mesh system is fitted to all manual; 1124 cc and 1360 cc models have
aluminium alloy casing bolted to the engine's forward gears, consisting of baulk rings and the "MA" transmission, whereas 1580 cc and
left-hand end, and consists of the gearbox spring-loaded fingers, as well as the gear larger-engined models are fitted with the
and final drive differential - often called a pinions and synchro-hubs. The synchro-mesh "BE3" unit.
transaxle.
2 Drive is transmitted from the crankshaft via
the clutch to the input shaft, which has a
splined extension to accept the clutch friction
plate, and rotates in sealed ball-bearings.
From the input shaft, drive is transmitted to
the output shaft, which rotates in a roller
bearing at its right-hand end, and a sealed
ball-bearing at its left-hand end. From the
output shaft, the drive is transmitted to the
differential crownwheel, which rotates with
the differential case and planetary gears, thus
driving the sun gears and driveshafts. The
rotation of the planetary gears on their shaft
allows the inner roadwheel to rotate at a
slower speed than the outer roadwheel when
the car is cornering.
3 The input and output shafts are arranged
side by side, parallel to the crankshaft and
driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are
in constant mesh. In the neutral position, the
output shaft gear pinions rotate freely, so that
drive cannot be transmitted to the
crownwheel (see illustration).
4 Gear selection is via a floor-mounted lever
and selector rod mechanism. The selector rod
causes the appropriate selector fork to move
its respective synchro-sleeve along the shaft,
to lock the gear pinion to the synchro-hub. 1.1 Cutaway view of the BE3 manual transmission
Manual transmission 7A•3
2.5 Gearchange linkage link rod specified lengths 3.2 Transmission selector lever
arrangement - 1124 cc and 1360 cc
1 260.5 ± 1 mm 2 106 ± 1 mm 3 106.5 ± 1 mm
models. Selector rod pivot bolt (arrowed)
given are the distances between the centre housing, then remove the bracket and lever
2 Gearchange linkage - general points of the link rod balljoints, and not the assembly from the transmission.
information and adjustment total length of the rod. 4 Inspect all the linkage components for
6 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the signs of wear or damage, paying particular
1 If a stiff, sloppy or imprecise gearchange locknut, then carefully lever the relevant link attention to the selector lever balljoint, and
leads you to suspect that a fault exists within rod off its balljoint on the transmission unit. renew worn components as necessary. If
the linkage, first dismantle it completely, and Turn the end of the rod until the specified necessary, remove the gearchange lever as
check it for wear or damage as described in distance between the link rod balljoint centres follows.
Section 3. Reassemble it, applying a smear of is obtained, then press the disconnected end 5 Where a leather gaiter is fitted to the lever,
the special grease to all bearing surfaces. of the rod firmly back onto its balljoint and carefully prise the gearchange lever trim panel
securely tighten the link rod locknut. out from the centre console, then release the
2 If this does not cure the fault, the car should
be examined by an expert, as the fault must 7 Once all link rod lengths are correctly set, pop fastener and velcro strip, and remove the
lie within the transmission itself. There is no check that all gears can be selected, and that gaiter. Where a rubber gaiter is fitted, pull the
adjustment as such in the linkage. the gearchange lever returns properly to its knob from the gearchange lever. Prise the
3 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models, correct at-rest (neutral) position. gearchange lever trim panel out from the
note that, while the length of the link rods can centre console and remove the gaiter;
be altered as described below, this is for initial 3 Gearchange linkage - alternatively, undo the two retaining screws
setting-up only, and is not intended to provide securing the small centre console to the floor,
removal and refitting
a form of compensation for wear. If the link and remove the gaiter and console assembly
rods have been renewed, or if the length of from the vehicle (as applicable). Undo the four
the originals is incorrect, adjust them as Removal retaining nuts, then lower the gearchange
follows. lever out of position and remove it from
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
underneath the vehicle (see illustrations).
Link rod adjustment - 1580 cc and the front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. 6 Peel back the lower gaiter from the base of
larger-engined models the gearchange lever, then disengage the
4 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up 1124 cc and 1360 cc models lever mounting plate, and slide the upper
the front of the vehicle and support it on axle 2 Slacken and remove the nut and washer, gaiter up the lever to gain access to the
stands. Access to the link rods is poor, but then withdraw the pivot bolt from each end of gearchange lever pivot ball. Examine the lever
they can be reached both from above and the selector rod. Disengage the rod from components for signs of wear or damage,
below the vehicle. gearchange lever and selector lever, and paying particular attention to the rubber
5 Working in (or under) the engine remove it from underneath the vehicle (see gaiters, and renew components as necessary.
compartment, measure the length of each link illustration). The lever can be separated from its baseplate
rod, and compare this to the length specified 3 Undo the two nuts securing the selector after the retaining ring has been undipped
(see illustration). Note the measurements lever mounting bracket to the transmission (see illustrations).
3.5a Slacken and remove the four 3.5b . . . then remove the gearchange lever 3.6a Peel back the lower gaiter . . .
retaining nuts . . . from underneath the vehicle
7A•4 Manual transmission
4.8b . . . and tap it into position using a 4.22 Removing the input shaft seal from 4.25a Fit a new O-ring/gasket (as
tubular drift the guide sleeve applicable)...
abuts its locating shoulder. If the seal was type and amount of fluid/oil, and check the shaft's seal rubbing surface for signs of burrs,
supplied with a plastic protector sleeve, leave level using the information given in Chapter 1. scratches or other damage, which may have
this in position until the driveshaft has been caused the seal to fail in the first place. It may
Left-hand seal be possible to polish away minor faults of this
refitted (see illustrations).
9 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft splines, 16 Pull the swivel hub assembly outwards sort using fine abrasive paper; however, more
then apply a thin film of grease to the oil seal and withdraw the driveshaft inner constant serious defects will require the renewal of the
lips and to the driveshaft inner end splines. velocity joint from the transmission, taking input shaft. Ensure that the input shaft is clean
care not to damage the driveshaft oil seal. and greased, to protect the seal lips on
10 Slide the dust seal into position on the
Support the driveshaft, to avoid damaging the refitting.
end of the shaft, ensuring that its flat surface
constant velocity joints or gaiters. 24 Dip the new seal in clean oil, and fit it to
is facing the transmission.
11 Carefully locate the inner driveshaft 17 Renew the oil seal as described above in the guide sleeve.
splines with those of the differential sun gear, paragraphs 7 to 9. 25 Fit a new O-ring or gasket (as applicable)
taking care not to damage the oil seal, then 18 Carefully locate the inner constant to the rear of the guide sleeve, then carefully
align the intermediate bearing with its velocity joint splines with those of the slide the sleeve into position over the input
mounting bracket, and push the driveshaft differential sun gear, taking care not to shaft. Refit the retaining bolts and tighten
fully into position. If necessary, use a soft- damage the oil seal, and push the driveshaft them to the specified torque setting (see
faced mallet to tap the outer race of the fully into position. Where fitted, remove the illustrations).
bearing into position in the mounting bracket. plastic protector from the oil seal. 26 Take the opportunity to inspect the clutch
12 Ensure the intermediate bearing is 19 Carry out the operations described above components if not already done (Chapter 6).
correctly seated, then rotate its retaining bolts in paragraphs 13 to 15. Finally, refit the transmission as described in
back through 90° so that their offset heads Section 7.
Input shaft oil seal
are resting against the bearing outer race, and
tighten the retaining nuts to the specified 20 Remove the transmission as described in Selector shaft oil seal
torque. Remove the plastic seal protector Section 7. 1124 cc and 1360 cc models
(where supplied), and slide the dust seal tight 21 Undo the three bolts securing the clutch
27 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, to renew
up against the oil seal. release bearing guide sleeve in position, and
the selector shaft seal, the transmission must
slide the guide off the input shaft, along with
13 Align the balljoint with the lower arm, and be dismantled. This task should therefore be
its O-ring or gasket (as applicable). Recover
fit the three retaining bolts. Fit new retaining entrusted to a Citroen dealer or transmission
any shims or thrustwashers which have stuck
nuts to the bolts, and tighten them to the specialist.
to the rear of the guide sleeve, and refit them
specified torque setting.
14 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
to the input shaft. 1580 cc and larger-engined models
vehicle to the ground and tighten the 22 Carefully lever the oil seal out of the guide 28 Park the car on level ground, apply the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver (see handbrake, then jack up the front of the
illustration). vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove
15 Refill the transmission with the specified
23 Before fitting a new seal, check the input the left-hand front roadwheel, and unclip the
access cover from the centre of the wheel
arch liner.
29 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver,
lever the link rod balljoint off the transmission
selector shaft, and disconnect the link rod.
30 Carefully prise the selector shaft seal out
of the housing, and slide it off the end of the
shaft (see illustrations).
31 Before fitting a new seal, check the
selector shaft's seal rubbing surface for signs
of burrs, scratches or other damage, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place. It may be possible to polish away minor
faults of this sort using fine abrasive paper;
4.25b . . . refit the guide sleeve over the 4.25c . . . and secure it in position with its however, more serious defects will require the
input s h a f t . . . three retaining bolts renewal of the selector shaft.
7A•6 Manual transmission
4.30a On 1580 cc and larger-engined 4.30b . . . then slide the seal off the shaft
models, use a large flat-bladed 5.4 Disconnecting the wiring connector
screwdriver to prise the selector shaft seal from the reversing light switch (arrowed)
out of position . . .
may be necessary to remove the air intake pin, and disconnect the cable from the
32 Apply a smear of grease to the new seal's duct(s) as described in the relevant Part of speedometer drive. Where necessary,
outer edge and sealing lip, then carefully slide Chapter 4. It may also be necessary to disconnect the wiring connector from the
the seal along the selector rod. Press the seal remove the metal plate from the top of the speedometer drive.
fully into position in the transmission housing. transmission; the plate is retained by one of 3 Slacken and remove the retaining bolt,
33 Reconnect the link rod to the selector the transmission to engine unit bolts, and by a along with the heat shield (where fitted), and
shaft, ensuring that its balljoint is pressed second bolt securing the plate to the top of withdraw the speedometer drive and driven
firmly onto the shaft. Lower the car to the the transmission housing. pinion assembly from the transmission
ground. 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then housing, along with its O-ring (see
unscrew it from the transmission casing along illustrations).
5 Reversing light switch - with its sealing washer (see illustration). 4 If necessary, the pinion can be slid out of
testing, removal and refitting the housing, and the oil seal can be removed
Refitting
from the top of the housing. Examine the
5 Fit a new sealing washer to the switch, then pinion for signs of damage, and renew if
Testing screw it back into position in the top of the necessary. Renew the housing O-ring as a
transmission housing and tighten it to the matter of course.
1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a
specified torque setting. Reconnect the wiring 5 If the driven pinion is worn or damaged,
plunger-type switch that is screwed into the
connector, and test the operation of the also examine the drive pinion in the
top of the transmission casing. If a fault
circuit. Refit any components removed for transmission housing for similar signs.
develops in the circuit, first ensure that the
access. 6 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, to renew
circuit fuse has not blown.
2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring the drive pinion, the transmission unit must be
connector, and use a multimeter (set to the 6 Speedometer drive - dismantled and the differential gear removed.
resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test This task should therefore be entrusted to a
removal and refitting
circuit to check that there is continuity Citroen dealer or a transmission specialist.
between the switch terminals only when 7 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models, to
reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, Removal remove the drive pinion, first disengage the
and there are no obvious breaks or other right-hand driveshaft from the transmission,
1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and handbrake, then jack up the front of the car as described in paragraphs 1 to 7 of Section
must be renewed. 4. Undo the three retaining bolts, and remove
and support it on axle stands. The the speedometer drive housing from the
Removal speedometer drive is situated on the rear of transmission, along with its O-ring. Remove
the transmission housing, next to the inner the drive pinion from the differential gear, and
3 On some 1580 cc and larger-engined end of the right-hand driveshaft.
models, to improve access to the switch, it 2 Pull out the speedometer cable retaining recover any adjustment shims from the gear
(see illustrations).
6.7b . . . and remove the housing, O-ring 6.8 On refitting, ensure the drive pinion 7.3a Undo the four retaining bolts . . .
and drive pinion from the transmission dogs are correctly engaged with the gear
(shown with transmission removed for slots (arrowed)
clarity)
7.10a On models with power steering, 7.10b . . . and free the power steering pipe
undo the retaining nuts . . . 7.11 On 1580 cc and larger-engined
from its mountings on the underside of the models, remove the flywheel lower cover
transmission plate
undo the retaining bolts, and remove the 15 To release the left-hand driveshaft inner
flywheel lower cover plate (where fitted) from 18 Slacken and remove the centre nut and
constant velocity joint from the transmission,
the transmission (see illustration). washer from the left-hand engine/
pull the swivel hub assembly outwards and
12 Withdraw the rubber retaining pin, transmission mounting. Undo the two bolts
withdraw the joint from transmission, taking
disconnect the speedometer cable from the securing the mounting bracket assembly to
great care not to damage the driveshaft oil
drive housing, and free it from any relevant the vehicle body, and remove the mounting
seal. Support the driveshaft, to avoid
retaining clips (see illustrations). bracket assembly (see illustrations).
damaging the constant velocity joints or
13 Slacken and remove the three nuts gaiters. 19 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, undo the
securing the balljoint to the left-hand lower three retaining nuts and remove the mounting
16 Place a jack with a block of wood beneath plate from the top of the transmission.
suspension arm, then withdraw the bolts and the engine, to take the weight of the engine.
free the balljoint from the arm. Discard the 20 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models,
Alternatively, attach a couple of lifting eyes to
nuts - new ones must be used on refitting. slide the spacer off the mounting stud, then
the engine, and fit a hoist or support bar to
Repeat the procedure on the right-hand side. unscrew the stud from the top of the
take the engine weight.
14 Release the inner end of the right-hand transmission housing and remove it along
17 Place a jack and block of wood beneath with its washer. If the mounting stud is tight, a
driveshaft from the transmission, as described the transmission, and raise the jack to take
in paragraphs 4 to 6 of Section 4. universal stud extractor can be used to
the weight of the transmission. unscrew it (see illustrations).
7.12a Withdraw the rubber retaining pin 7.12b . . . and disconnect the speedometer
(arrowed)... 7.18a Remove the centre nut and washer
cable from the transmission - from the left-hand mounting . . .
BE3 transmission shown
7.21a On models with a "pull-type" clutch, 7.21 b . . . then remove the clutch release 7.21c . . . and make an alignment mark
withdraw the retaining pin . . . lever... between the release fork shaft and
transmission housing (arrowed)
21 On models with a "pull-type" clutch the car (see illustration). Remove the locating This will ensure that the release fork and
release mechanism (see Chapter 6), tap out dowels from the transmission or engine if they bearing will engage correctly as the
the retaining pin or unscrew the retaining bolt are loose, and keep them in a safe place. transmission is refitted to the engine. If
(as applicable) and remove the clutch release 25 On models with a "pull-type" clutch, make the bearing and fork are correctly
lever from the top of the release fork shaft. a second alignment mark on the transmission engaged, the mark on the shaft should be
This is necessary to allow the fork shaft to housing, marking the relative position of the aligned with the original mark made on
rotate freely, to disengage from the release release fork mark after removal, noting the the transmission housing. Ensure the
bearing as the transmission is pulled away angle at which the release fork is positioned release fork and bearing are correctly
from the engine. Make an alignment mark (see illustration 7.26a). This mark can then engaged before bolting the
across the centre of the clutch release fork be used to position the release fork before transmission onto the engine.
shaft using a scriber, paint or similar, and refitting, to ensure that the fork correctly (d) On 1580 cc and larger-engined models,
mark its position relative to the transmission engages with the clutch release bearing as the apply thread-locking fluid to the left-hand
housing (see illustrations). Undo the transmission is installed. engine/transmission mounting stud
retaining bolts, and remove the clutch cable threads, prior to refitting it to the
bracket from the top of the transmission Refitting transmission (see illustration). Tighten
housing. the stud to the specified torque.
26 The transmission is refitted by a reversal
22 With the jack positioned beneath the of the removal procedure, bearing in mind the
transmission taking the weight, slacken and following points:
remove the remaining bolts securing the (a) Apply a little high-melting-point grease to
transmission housing to the engine. Note the the splines of the transmission input shaft.
correct fitted positions of each bolt, and the Do not apply too much, otherwise there is
necessary brackets, as they are removed, to a possibility of the grease contaminating
use as a reference on refitting. Make a final the clutch friction plate.
check that all components have been (b) Ensure the locating dowels are correctly
disconnected, and are positioned clear of the positioned prior to installation.
transmission so that they will not hinder the (c) On models with a "pull-type" clutch,
removal procedure. before refitting, position the clutch release
23 With the bolts removed, move the trolley bearing so that its HAUT mark is at the
jack and transmission to the left, to free it from top, and the BAS mark is at the bottom,
its locating dowels. and align the release fork shaft mark with
24 Once the transmission is free, lower the the second mark made on the 7.24 Removing the transmission from the
jack and manoeuvre the unit out from under transmission housing (see illustrations). vehicle
(e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified must be precisely measured and, if internal and external circlip pliers, bearing
torque (where given). necessary, changed by selecting shims and pullers, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches,
(f) Renew the driveshaft oil seals and refit spacers. Internal transmission components a dial test indicator, and possibly a hydraulic
the driveshafts to the transmission, using are also often difficult to obtain, and in many press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench
the information given in Section 4. instances, extremely expensive. Because of and a vice will be required.
(g) On completion, refill the transmission with this, if the transmission develops a fault or During dismantling of the transmission,
the specified type and quantity of becomes noisy, the best course of action is to make careful notes of how each component is
lubricant, as described in Chapter 1. have the unit overhauled by a specialist fitted, to make reassembly easier and more
repairer, or to obtain an exchange accurate.
reconditioned unit. Before dismantling the transmission, it will
8 Manual transmission Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the help if you have some idea what area is
overhaul - general information more experienced mechanic to overhaul the malfunctioning. Certain problems can be
transmission, provided the special tools are closely related to specific areas in the
Overhauling a manual transmission unit is a available, and the job is done in a deliberate transmission, which can make component
difficult and involved job for the DIY home step-by-step manner, so that nothing is examination and replacement easier. Refer to
mechanic. In addition to dismantling and overlooked. the Fault finding Section at the end of this
reassembling many small parts, clearances The tools necessary for an overhaul include manual for more information.