Contents

1 Croatia 1
1.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.4.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.4.2 Terrain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.4.3 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.4.4 Holidays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.5.1 Entry requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.5.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.5.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.5.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.5.5 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.5.6 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.6.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.6.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.6.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.6.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.6.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.6.6 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.6.7 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.7 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.9.1 Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.9.2 Naturist resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.9.3 Medical tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.9.4 Croatia for the disabled . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.9.5 Lighthouses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

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1.10 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.10.1 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.10.2 ATMs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.10.3 Tipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.10.4 Tax-free shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.10.5 Natural cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.10.6 Croatian clothing designers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
1.11 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
1.12 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.13 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.14 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.15 Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.15.1 Volunteering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.16 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.17 Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.18 Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.19 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.19.1 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.19.2 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
1.19.3 Postal service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
1.19.4 Television, radio and printed media . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2 Samobor 14
2.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3 Central Croatia 15
3.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
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3.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.10 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

4 Karlovac 16
4.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.5.1 Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
4.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
4.10 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

5 Krapina 18
5.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
5.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
5.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
5.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
5.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
5.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
5.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
5.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
5.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
5.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
5.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

6 Krapinske Toplice 20
6.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
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6.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
6.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
6.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
6.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
6.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
6.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
6.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
6.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
6.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
6.7.2 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
6.8 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

7 Sisak 22
7.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
7.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
7.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
7.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
7.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
7.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
7.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
7.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
7.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
7.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
7.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
7.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
7.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
7.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

8 Varadin 26
8.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
8.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
8.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
8.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
8.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
8.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
8.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
8.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
8.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
8.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
8.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
8.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
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9 Vrbovec 29
9.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.5.1 Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
9.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

10 Zagreb 30
10.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
10.1.1 Tourist Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
10.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
10.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
10.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
10.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
10.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
10.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
10.3.1 Tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
10.3.2 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
10.3.3 Funicular . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
10.3.4 Trains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
10.3.5 Ticketing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
10.3.6 Zagreb Card . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
10.3.7 Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
10.3.8 Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
10.3.9 Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
10.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
10.4.1 Gornji Grad (Upper Town) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
10.4.2 Donji Grad (Lower Town) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
10.4.3 Northern Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
10.4.4 Novi Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
10.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
10.5.1 Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
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10.6 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
10.7 Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
10.8 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
10.8.1 Souvenirs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
10.8.2 Foreign books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
10.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
10.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
10.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
10.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
10.9.4 Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
10.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
10.10.1 Bars and pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
10.10.2 Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
10.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
10.11.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
10.11.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
10.11.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
10.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
10.12.1 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
10.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.14Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.14.1 Reading and Speaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.14.2 Visiting during summer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.14.3 Embassies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.15Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

11 Istria 49
11.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.5.2 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.5.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.5.4 By Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.6.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
11.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
11.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
CONTENTS vii

11.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

12 Brijuni 53
12.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.10.1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.10.2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.10.3 Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
12.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

13 Faana 54
13.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

14 Motovun 55
14.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
viii CONTENTS

14.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
14.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

15 Pore 57
15.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
15.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
15.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
15.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
15.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
15.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
15.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
15.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
15.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

16 Pula 59
16.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
16.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
16.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
16.2.2 By land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
16.2.3 By sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
16.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
16.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
16.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
16.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
16.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
16.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
16.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
16.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
16.9.2 Unclassied . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
16.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

17 Rovinj 63
17.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
17.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
17.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
17.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
17.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
17.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
CONTENTS ix

17.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
17.5.1 Rock climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
17.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
17.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
17.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

18 Umag 66
18.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
18.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
18.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
18.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
18.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
18.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
18.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
18.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.8.1 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.8.2 Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.8.3 Campsites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

19 Vrsar 69
19.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

20 Slavonia 70
20.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
20.2 Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
20.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
x CONTENTS

20.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
20.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
20.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
20.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
20.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
20.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
20.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
20.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
20.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
20.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

21 akovo 72
21.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
21.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

22 Liberland 73
22.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.2.6 By LSA assistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
22.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.11Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.12Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
CONTENTS xi

22.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.14Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.15Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
22.16Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

23 Osijek 75
23.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
23.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
23.2.1 By rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
23.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
23.2.3 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
23.2.4 By road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
23.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
23.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
23.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
23.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
23.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
23.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
23.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
23.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

24 idski Banovci 80
24.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
24.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
24.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
24.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

25 Slavonski Brod 82
25.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.1.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.1.4 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.1.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
xii CONTENTS

25.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
25.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
25.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
25.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
25.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
25.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83

26 Vukovar 84
26.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
26.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
26.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
26.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
26.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
26.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
26.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
26.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
26.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
26.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

27 Dalmatia 86
27.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
27.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
27.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
27.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
27.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
27.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
27.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
27.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
27.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
27.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
27.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
27.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

28 Krka National Park 88

28.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
28.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
28.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
28.1.3 Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
28.1.4 Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
28.1.5 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
CONTENTS xiii

28.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.4.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.4.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.4.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
28.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
28.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
28.6.1 Boat trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
28.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
28.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
28.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
28.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
28.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
28.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

29 Plitvice National Park 92

29.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
29.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
29.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
29.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
29.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
29.1.5 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.2.2 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.3.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
29.3.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.5.1 Walking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.5.2 Boating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.5.3 Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.5.4 Skiing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
29.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
29.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
29.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
29.9.1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
xiv CONTENTS

29.9.2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
29.9.3 Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
29.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
29.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

30 Dubrovnik-Neretva 98
30.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.2 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
30.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

31 Cavtat 99
31.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
31.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

32 Dubrovnik 100
32.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
32.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
32.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
32.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
32.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
32.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
32.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
32.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
32.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
32.3.2 Car rental . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
CONTENTS xv

32.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

32.4.1 Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
32.4.2 City walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
32.4.3 Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
32.4.4 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
32.4.5 Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
32.4.6 Other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
32.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
32.5.1 Sailing and boat trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.5.2 Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.5.3 Cable car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.6.1 Bicycle parts and service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
32.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
32.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
32.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
32.8.1 Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
32.8.2 Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
32.8.3 Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
32.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
32.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
32.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
32.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
32.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
32.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
32.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
32.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113

33 Klek 115
33.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
33.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
33.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
33.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
xvi CONTENTS

34 Komarna 117
34.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
34.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
34.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
34.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
34.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
34.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
34.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
34.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
34.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
34.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118

35 Korula 119
35.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.2 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.3 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.3.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.3.2 By ferry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.3.3 By water taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.3.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
35.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
35.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
35.5.1 Korula Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
35.5.2 Further Aeld . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
35.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
35.6.1 Beaches & Nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
35.6.2 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
35.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
35.7.1 Korula Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
35.7.2 Rest of Korula island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
35.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
35.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
35.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
35.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

36 Lumbarda 124
36.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
36.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
36.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
36.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
36.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
36.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
CONTENTS xvii

36.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

36.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
36.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125

37 Mljet 126
37.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
37.1.1 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
37.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
37.1.3 National Park entrance fee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
37.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
37.2.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
37.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
37.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
37.3.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
37.3.2 By bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
37.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
37.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
37.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
37.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
37.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
37.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
37.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
37.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

38 Orebi 129
38.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.2.4 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
38.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
38.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
38.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
38.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
38.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
38.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
38.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
38.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131

39 Ploe 132
xviii CONTENTS

39.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132

39.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.1.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
39.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132

40 Ston 133
40.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
40.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
40.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
40.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
40.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
40.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
40.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
40.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
40.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
40.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
40.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

41 Northern Dalmatia 135

41.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
41.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
41.2.1 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
41.2.2 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
41.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
41.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
41.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
41.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
41.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
41.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
41.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

42 Biograd na Moru 137

42.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
CONTENTS xix

42.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

42.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
42.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

43 Dugi Otok 138

43.1 Towns and villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
43.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
43.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
43.3.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.4.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.5.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
43.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
43.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
43.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
43.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
43.10.1 Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
43.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140

44 Kornati National Park 141

44.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
44.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
44.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
44.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
44.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.2.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.3 Fees/permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
44.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
44.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
44.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
xx CONTENTS

44.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
44.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
44.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143

45 Murter 144
45.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
45.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
45.2 Townships . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
45.3 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.4.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.4.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.4.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.8 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
45.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
45.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

46 Novalja 147
46.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
46.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
46.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
46.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
46.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
46.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
46.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
46.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
46.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
46.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
46.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
CONTENTS xxi

46.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
46.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

47 Pag (town) 150

47.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
47.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150

48 Paman 151
48.1 Towns and villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
48.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

49 Raanac 152
49.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
49.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152

50 Rtina 153
xxii CONTENTS

50.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

50.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
50.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

51 ibenik 154
51.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
51.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
51.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
51.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
51.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.2.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.3.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.3.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
51.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
51.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
51.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
51.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
51.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
51.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

52 Zadar 159
52.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
52.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
52.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
52.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
52.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
52.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
52.2.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
52.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
CONTENTS xxiii

52.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160

52.3.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
52.3.3 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
52.3.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
52.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
52.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
52.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
52.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
52.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
52.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
52.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
52.9.2 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
52.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
52.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164

53 Split-Dalmatia 165
53.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.2 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
53.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165

54 Baska Voda 166

54.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.4 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
54.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166

55 Bratu 167
55.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
55.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
xxiv CONTENTS

55.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
55.4 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
55.5 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
55.6 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167

56 Drvenik 169
56.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
56.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

57 Hvar 170
57.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
57.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
57.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
57.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
57.4.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
57.4.2 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
57.4.3 The arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
57.4.4 Hikes and walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
57.4.5 Scenery and nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
57.4.6 Religion and religious sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
57.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
57.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
57.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
57.7.1 Hvar Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
57.7.2 Pakleni Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
57.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
57.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
57.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174

58 Makarska 175
58.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
58.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
58.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
58.2.2 By ferry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
58.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
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58.3.1 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

58.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
58.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
58.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
58.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
58.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
58.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
58.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
58.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
58.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
58.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
58.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
58.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177

59 Maslinica 178
59.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
59.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178

60 Omi 179
60.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.1.3 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.1.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
60.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
60.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
60.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
60.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
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61 Promajna 181
61.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
61.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181

62 Solta 182
62.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
62.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
62.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
62.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
62.4.1 Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
62.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
62.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
62.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
62.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
62.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
62.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
62.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

63 Split 184
63.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
63.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
63.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
63.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
63.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
63.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
63.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
63.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
63.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
63.3.2 By bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
63.3.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
63.3.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
63.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
63.4.1 Diocletians Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
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63.4.2 Beyond the Diocletians Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

63.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
63.5.1 Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
63.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
63.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
63.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
63.8.1 Nightclubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
63.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
63.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
63.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
63.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
63.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
63.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
63.11.1 Internet access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
63.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193

64 Trogir 194
64.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
64.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
64.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
64.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
64.8.1 In the old part . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
64.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196

65 Vinisce 197
65.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
65.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
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65.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197

66 Vis 199
66.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
66.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
66.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
66.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
66.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
66.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
66.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
66.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
66.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
66.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201

67 Brac 202
67.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.6.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.6.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
67.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
67.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
67.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
67.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
67.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
67.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

68 Bol 204
68.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
68.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
68.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
68.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
68.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
68.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
68.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
68.7.1 Hostels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
68.7.2 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
68.7.3 Apartments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
CONTENTS xxix

68.8 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206

69 Milna 207
69.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
69.1.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
69.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
69.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
69.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
69.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
69.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
69.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
69.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
69.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
69.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208

70 Supetar 209
70.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
70.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
70.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210

71 Kvarner 211
71.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
71.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
71.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
71.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
71.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
71.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
71.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212

72 Mali Losinj 213

xxx CONTENTS

72.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

72.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.9 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
72.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

73 Rab 214
73.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
73.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
73.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
73.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
73.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
73.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
73.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
73.8 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
73.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215

74 Rijeka 216
74.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
74.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
74.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
74.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
74.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
74.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.2.5 By ship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.3.1 By foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.3.2 By public transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.3.3 By Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
74.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
74.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
74.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
74.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
74.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
74.10.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
CONTENTS xxxi

74.10.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

74.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

75 Senj 223
75.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.9.1 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
75.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

76 Cres 224
76.1 Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.2 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.3 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
76.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
76.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
76.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
76.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
76.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

77 Beli 226
77.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
77.9.1 Camping Brajdi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
xxxii CONTENTS

77.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
77.10.1 Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
77.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

78 Krk 228
78.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
78.2 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
78.3 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
78.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
78.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.5.2 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
78.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

79 Baka 230
79.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
79.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

80 Malinska 231
80.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.2.3 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
80.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
CONTENTS xxxiii

80.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232

80.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232

81 Njivice 233
81.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.1.3 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
81.9 Giong out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

82 Punat 234
82.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
82.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

83 Town Krk 235

83.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
83.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

84 Vrbnik 236
84.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
xxxiv CONTENTS

84.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
84.10Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
84.10.1 Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
84.10.2 Images . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
84.10.3 Content license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Chapter 1

Croatia

Croatia (Croatian: Hrvatska) is a Mediterranean coun-
try that bridges Central Europe and the Balkans. It is on
the eastern side of the Adriatic Sea, across from Italy on
the western side. It is bordered by Slovenia to the north-
west, Hungary to the north, Bosnia and Herzegovina to
the southeast, Serbia in the east, and Montenegro to the
south.
1.1 Regions
Sisak - largest river port, city on three rivers and a
city that has stopped the spread of the Turks in Eu-
rope in 1593, formerly Siscia
Slavonski Brod - a once important star-fort on the
Ottoman defensive line
Rijeka - Croatias largest and main port
Varadin - Croatias former Baroque capital
Zadar - biggest city of north-central Dalmatia with
rich history

1.3 Other destinations

Krka National Park river valley near ibenik
Island of Cres
Island of Hvar
Island of Bra
Island of Krk
Island of olta
Makarska on the Makarska Riviera
Map of Croatia
Plitvice National Park
There are three distinct areas of Croatia: Lowland Croa- umberak mountainous region that spans the bor-
tia (cr: Nizinska Hrvatska), Littoral Croatia (Primorska der between Slovenia and Croatia
Hrvatska) and Mountainous Croatia (Gorska Hrvatska)
and these can be neatly split into ve travel regions:
1.4 Understand
1.2 Cities
1.4.1 Climate
Zagreb - the capital and largest city
Northern Croatia has a temperate continental climate,
Dubrovnik - historic coastal city and UNESCO while the central and upland regions have a mountainous
World Heritage site climate. The entire Adriatic coast has a pleasant Mediter-
ranean climate. Spring and autumn are mild along the
Split - ancient port city with Roman ruins coast, while winter is cold and snowy in central and north-
Pula - biggest town in Istria with the Roman am- ern regions. The average temperature inland in January
phitheater (commonly called Arena) ranges from 10C to 5C; August 19C to 39C. The
average temperature at the seaside is higher: January 6C
Osijek - capital of Slavonia and an important city to 11C; August 21C to 39C.

1
2 CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

1.4.2 Terrain communist grip on power on the eve of the fall of com-
munism in Eastern Europe, the rst free elections were
It is geographically diverse with at agricultural plains held in Yugoslavia in almost 45 years. In these elections,
along the Hungarian border (Central European area), low nationalist options won power in all Yugoslav republics,
mountains and highlands near the Adriatic coastline, and which led to a rise in inter-ethnic tensions, culminating
islands. There are 1,246 islands; the largest ones are Krk when Croatia and Slovenia declared their independence
and Cres. The highest point is Dinara at 1,830 m. from Yugoslavia in 1991. This led to open war in newly
independent Croatia and later in Bosnia and Herzegov-
ina which declared its independence in 1992. The wars
1.4.3 History ended four years later, in 1995, with a decisive Croatian
victory in operation Storm, bringing peace to both coun-
The Croats settled in the region in the early 7th cen- tries. The anniversary of operation Storm is celebrated as
tury and formed two principalities: Croatia and Pan- Thanksgiving Day in Croatia every August 5.
nonia. The establishment of the Trpimirovi dynasty ca After a period of accelerated economic growth in the late
850 brought strengthening to the Dalmatian Croat Duchy, 1990s and 2000s Croatia joined NATO in 2009 and the
which together with the Pannonian principality became European Union in 2013. Croatia today is a functioning
a kingdom in 925 under King Tomislav. Independent liberal democracy, with a free market system and a robust
Croatian kingdom lasted until 1102 when Croatia, after a welfare state.
series of dynastic struggles entered into a personal union
with Hungary, with a Hungarian king ruling over both
countries. In 1526, after the Battle of Mohcs, where 1.4.4 Holidays
Hungary suered a catastrophic defeat against Ottoman
Turks, Croatia severed its relationship with Hungary and January 1: New Years Day
its parliament (Sabor) voted to form a new personal union
with the Habsburg Monarchy. Croatia remained an au- January 6: Epiphany
tonomous kingdom within the Hapsburg state (and later Easter (according to the Gregorian calendar)
Austria-Hungary) until the empires dissolution following
defeat in World War I. Corpus Christi (60 days after Easter)
In 1918, a short-lived State of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs May 1: International Workers Day
(carved out of south Slavic parts of Austria-Hungary)
joined the Kingdom of Serbia to form the Kingdom of June 22: Anti-Fascist Struggle Day
Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, later renamed Yugoslavia in June 25: Statehood Day
1929. The new state was unitarist in character, eras-
ing all historical borders within its new territorial divi- August 5: Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving
sion, which resulted in a strong movement for more au- Day and the Day of Croatian defenders
tonomy for Croatia. This was achieved in 1939, only
days before the start of World War II, when Croatia was August 15: Assumption of Mary
granted broad autonomy within Yugoslavia as Banovina October 8: Independence Day
of Croatia. When Germany and Italy attacked Yugoslavia
in 1941, the state was dissolved, parts of it annexed to December 25: Christmas
Germany and Italy, and puppet governments installed in
Croatia and Serbia. Almost immediately, a strong resis-
tance movement was formed, led by communist leader 1.5 Get in
Josip Broz Tito (an ethnic Croat), which gained broad
popular support. After the end of World War II, a new,
communist Yugoslavia was formed with Tito becoming
president for life. Tito ruled with a strong hand, using
political repression and secret police to quell any sepa-
ratist sentiments, with the ocial motto of the new coun-
try being Brotherhood and Union. Still, because Yu-
goslavia didn't belong to the Warsaw Pact, having broken
o political ties with the USSR in 1948, it was by far
the most open socialist country in Europe and its citizens
enjoyed more civil liberties and a higher living standard
than the rest of the Communist bloc. After Titos death in
1980, the weakening of political repression led to a period
of political instability. Faced with the rise of nationalist Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb
sentiment, a decade-long recession, and the weakening of
1.5. GET IN 3

Travel to/from any other country (Schengen or not)

from/to Croatia will (as of now) result in the normal
immigration checks, although customs checks will be
waived when travelling to/from another EU country.
Inquire with your travel agent or with the local embassy
or consulate of Croatia. Any person not covered by a visa
exemption will need to apply for a visa at a Croatian em-
bassy or consulate in advance. The application fee for a
short stay Croatian visa is 35.
More information about visa exemptions and the visa ap-
plication procedure is available at the website of the Croa-
tian Ministry of Foreign and European Aairs .
Croatia has 1244 islands

1.5.2 By plane
The only ights from outside Europe are from Tel Aviv
and Doha, and the occasional charter ight from Tokyo
and Seoul. If coming from North America, you will have
to transfer at a hub such as London or Frankfurt airport.

Croatia Airlines, the national carrier and mem-

ber of Star Alliance, ies to Amsterdam, Berlin,
Brussels, Dsseldorf, Frankfurt, London, Madrid,
Milan, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Prague, Tel Aviv,
Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Vienna, Zrich and - dur-
ing the tourist season - Manchester.

City of Hvar has average of 2726 hours of sunshine per year,
likewise many other Croatian towns on Adriatic coast. Croatia
is a land of urban culture which numbers more cities than any
other part of the Mediterranean
Dubrovnik is a city in Southern Dalmatia. Croatia has 20 UN-
ESCO heritage sites and treasures of tradition.
1.5.1 Entry requirements
Croatia is committed to implementing the Schengen
Agreement although it hasn't yet done so. For citizens
of the European Union (EU) or European Free Trade
Area (EFTA) (i.e. Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and
Switzerland), an ocially approved ID card (or a pass-
port) is sucient for entry. Other nationalities will gen-
erally require a passport for entry.
Adria Airways - Slovenian national carrier ies from
Ljubljana to Split and Dubrovnik (note: there are
no ights from Ljubljana to Zagreb as the two are
located close together and are around 2 hours by
car/train/bus)
Aer Lingus Dublin - Dubrovnik
Air Serbia ies from Belgrade to Dubrovnik, Pula
and Split in the summer
Austrian Airlines ies from Vienna to Zagreb, Split
and Dubrovnik
Alitalia ies from Milan Malpensa to Zagreb and
Split.
British Airways ies from London Gatwick to
Dubrovnik
CSA Czech Airlines - SkyTeam member; ies from
Prague to Zagreb all the year, and to Split during
summer.
Darwin Airline ies between Geneva and Dubrovnik
(Thursdays and Sundays) as well as Zrich and
Dubrovnik (Saturdays).
EasyJet has ights to the following destinations in
Croatia:
London Gatwick - Split
Nordica is ying from Tallinn to Dubrovnik.
4 CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

FlyBe operates routes between Dubrovnik and two
UK destinations Exeter and Birmingham.
GermanWings - cheap connection from Berlin,
Cologne, Stuttgart and Hamburg, to Zagreb, Split,
Zadar and Dubrovnik
KLM connects Amsterdam with Zagreb
Norwegian connects Oslo with Rijeka, Split and
Dubrovnik
Ryanair ies from Dublin and Karlsruhe-Baden to
Zadar.
Trieste (for Ryanair ights from London
Stansted). You can also use Venice Marco
Polo (for British Airways ights from the UK)
or Venice Treviso (Ryanair from Stanstead).
Ancona is also an option (Ryanair from
Stansted) for those who want to take ferry or
hydrofoil to Zadar and Split. Ryanair also ies
to Pescara which is a short drive away from
Ancona.
Some may decide to use Tivat Airport (in
Montenegro) which is within easy reach from
Dubrovnik.

Scandjet is a Scandinavian low fare airline that con- 1.5.3 By train

nects Sweden, Norway and Denmark with Croatia.
It ies from: The rail network connects all major Croatian cities, ex-
cept Dubrovnik (you can take a train to Split then take
Oslo to Split one of the frequent buses or the more scenic ferry to
Dubrovnik, the train station is at the pier). There are
Stockholm to Pula, Split and Dubrovnik
direct lines from Austria, Czech Republic, Switzerland,
Gothenburg to Zagreb, Pula, Zadar and Split Germany, Hungary (suspended due to immigrant cri-
Copenhagen to Pula, Split. sis), Slovenia, Italy, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia.
There are indirect lines from almost all other European
TAP Portugal is ying from Zagreb to Lisbon via countries.
Bologna three times a week (Wednesdays, Fridays, Tourists coming from or going to neighboring countries
Sundays). should note the following EuroCity and InterCity as well
as EuroNight railway lines:
Vueling, a Spanish low-cost carrier ies between
Dubrovnik and Barcelona.
EC Mimara": Frankfurt - Munich - Salzburg -
Wizz Air ies between Zagreb and London (Luton Ljubljana - Zagreb
Airport) IC Croatia": Vienna - Maribor - Zagreb, also by
EuroNight train

EN 414: Zurich - Zagreb - Beograd (can be booked

online with SBB or any other railway agency by
phone)

IC Adria": Budapest - Zagreb - Split (suspended

due to immigrant crisis, direct connection to Split
only during summer)

The German Railways (Deutsche Bahn) has a Europe

Sisak is a city in Central Croatia, 55 km from Zagreb.
Additionally you can use airports in neighboring
countries which are within few hours of reach from
Zagreb and Rijeka (apart from some of the listed
options in Italy):
Ljubljana (for EasyJet ights to London
Stansted or other Adria Airways ights)
Graz and Klagenfurt (for Ryanair ights from
London Stansted)
Special/Croatia, where they sell Munchen-Zagreb start-
ing at 39.
Note: While Croatia is covered on some Eurail passes,
sta at domestic ticket windows tend to have no idea
about validating the pass on the rst day of use. There
are recorded instances of sta saying that the conductor
would validate the pass, and the conductor simply treating
it as a regular ticket. Fortunately, the international ticket
sta (particularly in Zagreb) are aware of how to validate
the pass, and have been known to validate it retroactively
where necessary. They even ask for the details of the do-
mestic ticket seller who gave the wrong information.
The traveller is therefore recommended to have already
validated their Eurail pass on arrival in Croatia, or to have
1.6. GET AROUND 5

it validated at an international window even if the rst trip Dubrovnik and Split are the main destinations of in-
on it will be domestic. ternational buses from Bosnia and Hercegovina or
Montenegro, with daily buses traveling to cities such as
Sarajevo, Mostar and Kotor (some lines such as Split-
1.5.4 By car Mostar operate every few hours). Seasonal lines also ex-
tend through to Skopje from Dubrovnik. Border formal-
To enter Croatia, a drivers license, an automobile reg- ities on the buses are extremely ecient, and do not in-
istration card and vehicle insurance documents are re- volve leaving the bus (previous services from Dubrovnik
quired. If you need road assistance, you should dial 1987. to Kotor involved changing buses at the Croatian border).
The following speeds are permitted:
Osijek is a very big bus hub for international travel to
Hungary, Serbia and Bosnia in addition to its local buses,
50 km/h - within built-up areas
and the station is located conveniently next to the rail-
90 km/h - outside built-up areas way station. Many buses heading from Zagreb north into
Hungary or Austria will pass through Varadin.
110 km/h - on major motor routes
130 km/h - on motorways From Germany with azmatrans .
80 km/h - for motor vehicles with a caravan trailer
80 km/h - for buses and buses with a light trailer
1.5.6 By boat
Ferries are cheap and go regularly between various places
When driving in the rain, you should adjust speed to
by the coast. Although not the fastest, they are probably
conditions on wet roads. Driving with headlights is not
the best way to see the beautiful Croatian islands of the
obligatory during the day (during Daylight Savings Time;
Adriatic Sea.
it is obligatory during winter months). Use of mobile
phones while driving is not permitted. Maximum per- Jadrolinija is the main Croatian passenger shipping line
mitted amount of alcohol in blood is 0.05% (matching that maintains the largest number of regular international
neighboring Slovenia and Bosnia-Herzegovina) although and domestic ferry and shipping lines. The following in-
this has varied and was down to 0% until that was found ternational lines are serviced by car ferries:
to not be tenable in the country. Use of seat belts is oblig-
atory. Rijeka - Zadar - Split - Hvar - Korula -Dubrovnik
Hrvatski Auto Klub is the Croatian Automobile Club - Bari
dedicated to assisting drivers and promoting greater traf- Split - Ancona - Split
c security. Its site oers minute-by-minute updates, sta-
tus of national trac, weather, numerous maps and we- Korula - Hvar - Split - Ancona
bcams located all over Croatia. Content is available in
Croatian, English, German and Italian. Zadar - Ancona - Zadar
Zadar - Dugi otok - Ancona
1.5.5 By bus Dubrovnik - Bari - Dubrovnik

Very good network of buses once in the country - cheap Blue Line International also covers the international line:
and regular.
If you are coming from Italy there are two buses daily Split - Ancona - Split
from Venice leaving at 11AM and 1:45PM going to Is-
tria, with a nal stop in Pula. These are operated by two Venezia Lines has regular catamaran lines between
dierent bus companies, but you can buy tickets for both Venice and the Croatian cities of Pore, Pula, Rovinj and
buses at the A.T.V.O bus oce at the Venice bus station. Rabac.
The oce is in the bus station, but located outside on the
ground level across from where all the buses park. Both
buses pick up at spot b15. It is roughly a 5 hour bus ride,
with stops in Trieste and Rovinj. You can also pick up
1.6 Get around
the bus at the bus station in Mestre, fteen minutes after
the scheduled bus leaves Venice. Coming in from Trieste, 1.6.1 By plane
Italy is popular among Europeans, for Trieste is a Ryanair
destination. You cross the Italian-Slovenian border rst, National airline company Croatia Airlines connects ma-
followed by the Slovenian-Croatian border, but they are jor cities in Croatia to each other and foreign destinations.
very close to one another. Due to the comparatively short distances and relatively
6 CHAPTER 1. CROATIA
high hassle of air travel - especially when you travel with
luggage - domestic air travel is used mostly for getting
to end points - e.g., Zagreb to Dubrovnik (see map) and
vice-versa.
Another popular ight (available in the summer months
only) is between Split and Osijek, saving a long trip back
through Croatia, or alternatively through the middle of
Bosnia.
1.6.2 By train
Train travel is denitely improving in Croatia, with
money being spent on updating the aging infrastructure
and vehicles. Trains are clean and mostly on time.
Croatias rail network connects all major Croatian cities,
except Dubrovnik. If you want to visit Dubrovnik, you
will have to travel by train to Split, and then go on the
bus for Dubrovnik. Trains to Pula are actually connected
via Slovenia due to historical accident, though there are
designated connecting buses from Rijeka.
Rail is still the cheapest connection between inland and
coast, though not the most frequent. 160km/h tilting
trains that connect Zagreb with Split and other major
cities in Croatia such as Rijeka and Osijek have been in-
troduced, resulting in higher levels of comfort and sig-
nicantly faster journeys between cities (Zagreb-Split is
now 5.5h from 9, Osijek is now 3 when other trains take
around 4.5h). If you make a reservation early enough you
can get a substantial discount, or if you are a holder of an
ISIC card etc.
Information for the trains can be found on the Hrvatske
eljeznice - Croatian Railways site in Croatian and En-
glish has timetable and prices.
Tickets are not usually sold on board, except if you hap-
pen to get on the train on one of the few stations/stops
without ticket sales. However, only local trains stop on
such stations. In all other cases, a ticket bought on the
train will cost considerably more than the one bought out-
side the train.
1.6.3 By bus
A very comprehensive coach network connects all parts
of the country. Bus service between major cities (inter-
city lines) is quite frequent, as well as regional services.
The most frequent bus terminal in Croatia is Bus Termi-
nal Zagreb (in Croatian Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb).
Despite the recent improvements in the railway network,
buses are faster than trains for inter-city travel. See Bus
travel in the former Yugoslavia for more information.
Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb - Bus Terminal Zagreb,
timetable information, content in Croatian, English
CroatiaBus - bus company - timetable information,
prices, content in Croatian and English.
Autotrans Rijeka - bus company - timetable infor-
mation, prices, content in Croatian and English.
Autobusni promet Varadin - bus company -
timetable information, prices, content in Croatian,
English and German.
Contus - bus company - timetable information,
prices, content in Croatian and English.
Libertas Dubrovnik - bus terminal and company in-
formation in Dubrovnik, with international and do-
mestic information. Content mostly in Croatian.
1.6.4 By boat
Croatia is endowed with a beautiful coastline which is best
explored by ferry to access the hundreds of islands.
In many instances, the only way to get to the islands is by
ferry or catamaran. If you plan on using either you should
check these web sites because they have the regular ferry
and catamaran information.
Jadrolinija - Jadrolinija is the Croatian National
ferry company, and as well as routes operating from
the major cities to the islands, operate a ferry along
the Adriatic Coast from Rijeka to Dubrovnik (and
then across to Bari, Italy) calling at Split, Hvar, Ml-
jet and Korula. Check timetables as the schedules
are seasonal. The boats are large and have sleeping
facilities as the Rijeka-Split leg goes overnight.
SNAV is an Italian company connecting Split with
Ancona and Pescara. Check timetables as the
schedules are seasonal.
Azzura lines, is an Italian operator connecting
Dubrovnik with Bari Check timetables as the sched-
ules are seasonal.
Split Hvar taxi boat Taxi boat service that works
from 0-24H and can take you anywhere you want.
Yacht Charter in Croatia, a charter company with
one of the largest eets, situated in Split ACI Ma-
rina.
A Yacht Charter Croatia oers a variety of sailing
yachts, gulets and catamarans.
Antlos oers a selection of skippered yacht holidays
in Croatia, including Split, Hvar, Brac and the whole
of the Dalmatian Coast.
Navis Yacht Charter services are intended for those
who want to explore coast and hidden bays by sea
for one week or more.
1.6. GET AROUND 7

Europe Yachts Charter Europe Yachts Charter of- to cross a short portion of Bosnia-Herzegovina, so check
fers you chartering services in Croatia and some if you need a visa or other special requirements for en-
other Mediterranean countries. try into Bosnia (EU and US citizens don't need a visa).
Another major motorway is the A3, linking the Slove-
Croatia Cruise Cabin Charter Discover a completely nian border (not far from Zagreb) with eastern Croatia
new cruising experience that gives you the freedom and the Serbian border (120 km from Belgrade). The
to sail individually or in smaller groups. general speed limit on motorways is 130 km/h (81 mph).
Crewed Yacht Charter in CroatiaLion Queen char- You will probably encounter cars driving much faster, but
ter oers Gulet Cruises Croatia as one of the main following their example is of course highly unsafe.
specialist in this area. When exiting a toll motorway, ask the receipt at toll booth
if it is not given to you to be sure you do not get over-
If traveling as an individual or small group tour op- charged (you could receive along with the receipt some
erators like Med Experience oer individual spots unexpected change compared with the price you were
on a yacht trip down the coast. given verbally)
Map with Croatian yachting marinas There are 6 If an unknown person ashes their car lights at you it may
main regions where you can charter a yacht: Is- be a sign that they've recently passed a police unit doing
tria, Kvarner gulf, Zadar region, Sibenik region, speed limit checks. Ensure you are in compliance with
Split region and Dubrovnik. All of them all well- all the trac rules and regulations to avoid being stopped
communicated with Croatian airports. and ned.
Trying to nd a parking space near Croatias coastal old
Outside the summer months it is often dicult or impos- towns in the summer can be an exercise in futility. Even
sible to make a day trip to the more remote islands. This though prices range from the merely expensive 7 kn in
is because ferry schedules are made to suit commuters Split to the extortionate 30 kn per hour in Dubrovnik, the
who live on islands and travel to the mainland, not vice spaces ll up very quickly. However, away from the old
versa. towns, parking is convenient and often free at shopping
malls and large supermarkets, sports venues, near resi-
dential tower blocks and at restaurants (free for guests).
1.6.5 By car
Roads in Croatia are usually well maintained, but usually 1.6.6 By taxi
very narrow and full of curves. Some local roads in Istria
have been worn down to a smooth surface from regular You can use a taxi service by calling 970, or sometimes
wear and tear, and can be extremely slippery when wet. another number for a private company check individ-
Its dicult to nd a true highway with more than one lane ual city articles. The taxi usually comes within 10 to 15
per direction, the only exceptions being the ones connect- minutes from the call except in the busy summer season
ing Rijeka, Zagreb, Osijek, Zadar and Split. Speed limits where it depends on how much business they have. Croa-
are thus low (6090 km/h), and its not recommended to tian taxis are generally rather expensive.
drive faster (although most locals do), especially at night.
Be aware of animals crossing the road. In case you want You can also book the transportation in advance which
to overtake a slow vehicle on a narrow road, often the is great when you are in a hurry or have a larger num-
drivers in front of you will set the right yellow turning ber of people in need of transportation, or you just want
lights, and drive on the very right side, to sign the drivers everything organized in advance.
behind, that it is ok to overtake. But on your own risk. You can also prearrange a taxi service by E-mail in ad-
Renting a car is around the same price as in the EU (from vance to have even more comfort and to save money since
around 40). Almost all cars have a manual transmis- this taxi operators are cheaper than the regular taxi ser-
sion. Most rental agencies in the Balkans allow you to rent vice.
a car in one country and drive in the neighboring countries
however try to avoid a renting a car in Serbia and driving
1.6.7 By thumb
it into Croatia (or vice versa) in order to avoid negative
attention from nationalists. Hitchhiking is generally good. If you can get to a highway
On Croatian Motorways toll fees apply (and may be paid toll stop simply ask people to take you with them as they
in either kuna or euros). The A6 motorway between Za- open their windows to pay the toll. The toll collectors
greb and Rijeka was nished at the end of 2008, while usually won't mind. The tricky part, of course, is to get
the main motorway A1 from Zagreb to Dubrovnik is still to the toll stop. If you are in Zagreb and you are, like most
under construction (the current ending point is in Vr- people, heading south, take the bus 111 from the Savski
gorac, which is 70 km from Dubrovnik). Note that to most station in Zagreb and ask the bus driver where to get
reach southern Dalmatia including Dubrovnik, you need o to get to the toll stop. Next best place to ask people
8 CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

to pick you up are gas stations. And nally, just using the 1.9.1 Sailing
good old thumb will work too if everything else fails. On
some roads, hitchhiking is not permitted. Roads on which Sailing is a good way to see the coastal islands and net-
you cannot hitchhike are usually denoted by a sign with works of small archipelagos. Most charters leave from
the word 'autostop' crossed out ('autostop' is Croatian for Split or the surrounding area on the North or the South
'hitchhiking'). circuit, each oering its own pros and cons. A good way
is to book a package with a company at home, although
many Croatian companies also oer both bareboat and
crewed charters.
1.7 Talk Booking of a charter vessel is basically done in two parts.
Fifty percent of the charter price is paid right away, after
See also: Croatian phrasebook which the booking is conrmed. The other fty percent
of the charter fee is usually paid four weeks before the
charter date. Before the rst payment of the charter fee
The main language is Croatian, that is a Slavic language you should request to see the charter contract from the
which is very similar to Serbian and Bosnian . agency where you chartered a boat. Pay close attention to
Many Croatians can speak English to some level, but cancellation fees because many times if you cancel your
German and Italian are also very popular too (largely be- charter vacation you could lose the initial fty percent you
cause of the large annual inux of German and Italian already paid when you booked a charter so take a close
tourists). Elderly people will rarely speak English, al- look at that in the charter contract. After that you are set
though they may be able to converse in German or Italian. for a sailing vacation.
If you know Polish or Czech then these languages have When you arrive to marina where your chartered yacht
some similarities to Croatian. Some people might also is situated you need to do the check in (usually Satur-
speak French or Russian. Many older people can speak day around 16:00) and you have to do the shopping for
Russian but this has largely been supplanted by English the charter vacation. Don't neglect the groceries shop-
among the younger generations. ping because the sea is unpredictable and you don't want
to get stuck on the boat without anything to eat or drink.
You can do the shopping in a marina (although the prices
are much higher there) or you can order from yacht provi-
1.8 See sioning services who usually deliver the products to your
chartered yacht at no extra fee. This is convenient be-
Croatia has an impressive history, a fact that is best ex- cause it takes the load o you and the things you must do
plained through the vast array of sites worth visiting. when you arrive at the marina for your sailing holiday.
Most towns have an historical centre with its typical ar-
chitecture. There are dierences between the coast and
the continental part, so both areas are a must. The most 1.9.2 Naturist resorts
famous town is probably Dubrovnik, a prime example of
the coastal architecture, but by no means the only one Croatia was the rst country in Europe to start with the
worth visiting. Equally important is the capital and largest concept of commercial naturist resorts. According to
city, Zagreb, with a population of about 1 million. It is a some estimates about 15% of all tourists that visit the
modern city with all the modern features, yet it has a laid country are naturists or nudists (more than one million
back feel. In the east, in the region of Slavonia with its each year). There are more than 20 ocial naturist re-
regional capital Osijek and the war torn Vukovar are awe sorts as well as a very large number of the so-called free
inspiring. Scattered throughout the region are vineyards beaches which are unocial naturist beaches, sometimes
and wine cellars, most of which give tours and tastings. controlled and maintained by local tourist authorities. In
Throughout the country there are numerous cultural fact, you are likely to nd nudists on any beach outside of
venues that are worth seeing. Croatia has 7 UNESCO town centres. Naturist beaches in Croatia are marked as
protected sites, 8 national parks and 10 nature parks. FKK.
In total, the country has 444 protected areas. Beauti- The most popular nudist destinations are Pula, Hvar and
ful Adriatic sea stretches along 1,777 km (1,104 mi) of island Rab.
coastline, there are 1,246 islands to be seen making Croa-
tia an attractive nautical destination.
1.9.3 Medical tourism

Increasingly Croatia is becoming a popular place for

1.9 Do health tourism. A number of dental surgeries have ex-
perience in treating short term visitors to Croatia. Croa-
1.10. BUY 9

tian dentists study for 5 years in Zagreb or Rijeka. Har- Taxi drivers and hairdressers are often given tips by
monization of training with EU standards has begun, in rounding up the displayed price to the nearest multiple
preparation for Croatias accession. of 5 or 10 kuna.
A unique practice of tipping exists among the pensioners
who receive their pension via mail in rural settlements.
1.9.4 Croatia for the disabled They may leave any coinage to the postman who delivers
it as a sign of appreciation.
Facilities for the disabled are not as developed as else-
where, but there are exceptions to this and certain hotels,
camp sites and beaches have facilities for the disabled and
wheelchair access.
1.10.4 Tax-free shopping

1.9.5 Lighthouses If you buy goods worth more than 740 kuna you are en-
titled to a PDV (VAT) tax return when leaving the coun-
One of Croatias more wild holiday oers are the light- try. Note that this applies to all goods except petroleum
houses. Most of them are situated on a deserted coastline products. At point of purchase ask the sales person for
or in the open sea. The speciality of this is that you are a PDV-P form. Fill it out and have it stamped on the
able to cut yourself o from the rest of the world and take spot. On leaving Croatia the receipt will be veried by
the time to smell the roses. Sometimes the best way to the Croatian Customs service. A PDV refund in Kunas
relax is to take part in a Robinson Crusoe style holiday. can be obtained within six months, either at the same shop
Croatia has 11 rent-a-lighthouses along the Adriatic coast: where you bought the goods (in that case the tax will be
Savudrija, Sv. Ivan, Rt Zub, Porer, Veli Rat, Prisnjak, Sv. refunded to you immediately), or by posting the veried
Petar, Ploica, Suac, Struga and Palagrua. receipt back to the shop, together with the account num-
ber into which the refund should be paid. In this case the
refund is dealt with within 15 days of receipt of the claim.
There is another, much easier way to receive the refund.
1.10 Buy Buy your goods in shops with a CROATIA TAX-FREE
SHOPPING label. This label is displayed on the shops
1.10.1 Money entrance, usually next to the labels of credit and debit
cards this particular shop accepts. Using an international
Croatias ocial currency is the kuna, denoted by the coupon, refund is possible in all countries-members of the
symbol "kn" (ISO code: HRK). Although many tourist TAX-FREE international chain. In this case the service
business owners may accept euros, they are not legal ten- charge is deducted from the tax refund amount.
der in Croatia. Any amount of kuna you have left at the Croatia now uses the Global Blue system. They will do
end of your stay can be converted to euros at a local bank the refund and take a commission. You can do this at the
or exchange oce. airport or post it once you get home.
Prices are around 10% to 20% lower than most other
EU countries. Tourist destinations and articles are much
more expensive.
1.10.5 Natural cosmetics
1.10.2 ATMs
The ingredients used (herbs, olive oil, etc.) are grown
ATMs (in Croatian bankomat) are readily available in Croatia. In comparison to some world famous beauty
throughout Croatia. They will accept various Euro- products, Croatian natural cosmetics present real value
pean bank cards, credit cards (Diners Club, Euro- for the money.
card/MasterCard, Visa, American Express etc.) and Ulola manufacturers soaps, bath salts, body butters and
debit cards (Cirrus, Maestro, Visa electron etc.). Read more. Its all natural and comes in combinations like: or-
the labels/notices on the machine before using. ange and cinnamon, goats milk and almond oil, etc.
S-Atea manufacturers soaps, shower gels, body butter
1.10.3 Tipping and more. Seaweed, olive oil, rosemary and lavender are
some of their main ingredients.
Tipping is not particularly common, although it may oc- Brac ni sapuni (Brac quality soaps) manufacturers a
cur in restaurants and bars. Prices are usually already ad- wide range of natural soaps, the latest addition to their
justed upwards, and labour laws ensure a minimum wage bath line is Aurum Croaticum made from virgin olive oil
for all workers, therefore tipping is usually not expected. and thin leafs of 23 carat gold!
10
1.10.6 Croatian clothing designers
There are many Croatian designers and clothing special-
ists.
Etnobutik Mara (designs by Vesna Milkovi) oers a
range of really unique clothing and accessories inscribed
with glagoljica (glagolitic script; old Slavic alphabet).
Some of her designs are protected as Authentic Croatian
produce.
I-gle Fashion Studio by two female designers Nataa Mi-
haljiin i Martina Vrdoljak-Ranilovi. Their clothing is
sold in Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge (London).;
Nebo (Sky) is a fashion house that makes really nice,
funky clothes and shoes.
Nit (Thread) is denitely not widely known even among
Croats but is denitely worth visiting as they have some
funky and arty but serious clothing items that are value
for money.
Borovo is a well-priced and stylish shoe company which
makes everything from ip-ops to desert boots and high
heels.
1.11 Eat
Croatian cuisine is quite diverse so it is hard to say what
meal is most typically Croatian. In the eastern continen-
tal regions (Slavonija and Baranja) spicy sausage such as
kulen or kulenova seka is a must-try. obanac (shep-
herds stew) is a mixture of several dierent kinds of
meat with a lot of red spicy paprika. In Hrvatsko Zagorje
and Central Croatia pasta lled with cheese called trukli
is a famous delicacy (it is said that the best trukli in Croa-
tia is served in the Esplanade Hotel restaurant in Zagreb),
as is purica s mlincima (baked turkey with a special kind
of pastry). Sir i vrhnje (sour cream with cottage cheese)
can be bought fresh on the Zagreb main market Dolac.
Croats love a bit of oil and you will nd plenty of it in
piroka. In mountainous regions of Lika and Gorski Ko-
tar meals made of mushrooms, wild berries and wild meat
are very popular. One of typical dishes in Lika is po-
lice (oven-baked potatoes covered with bacon) and sev-
eral kinds of cheese (smoked cheese and kripavac).
The coastal region is well known for true delicacies
and soup manetra od bobi (Istria), Dalmatian prut and
paki sir (Pag-island cheese). Dishes made of fresh sh
and other products of the sea (calamari, octopus, crabs,
scampi) shouldn't be given a miss! Many places serve sh
delivered from the local sherman the night before - nd
out which ones!
Croatian cuisine has yet to come up with a Croatian fast
food representative. The market is dominated by glob-
ally ubiquitous hamburgers and pizzas but you will also
nd burek and "evapii imported from the medieval cheaper Spanish or Greek. Usually, asking the waiter for
Ottoman empire which stretched from Turkey to neigh-
CHAPTER 1. CROATIA
boring Bosnia. The latter two dishes are widely popular
in the entire South and Eastern Europe. Burek is a type
of cheese-pastry whereas evapii are seasoned minced
meat shaped in nger-size portions served in bread and
often covered with onions. Although denitely not a fast
meal (takes several hours to prepare) also foreign in ori-
gin is the so-called sarma or sauerkraut rolls lled with
minced meat and rice. For those coming back from night-
clubs at 4 or 5AM as is common in Croatia, it is popular
to go to the local bakery and get fresh bread, burek or
krafne (Croatian chocolate lled donuts) straight out of
the oven. Delicious! As far as fast food goes, who needs
it when you can buy delicious prsut during the day and
warm bread at night to compliment it. Most Croatians
generally look down at fast food.
Desserts: What it lacks in the fast food department Croa-
tia makes up with a myriad of desserts. Probably the most
famous is its delicious creamy cake called kremnite but
dierent kinds of gibanica, trudla and pita (similar to
strudel and pie) such as orehnjaa (walnut), makovnjaa
(poppy) or bunica (pumpkin and cheese) are also highly
recommended. Dubrovaka torta od skorupa is delicious
but hard to nd. Paprenjaci (pepper cookies) are said to
reect the Croatian tumultuous history because they com-
bine the harshness of the war periods (pepper) with the
natural beauties (honey). They can be bought in most sou-
venir shops though fresh-made are always a better choice.
Rapska torta (The Rab island cake) is made with almonds
and locally famous cherry liquor Maraschino. It should
be noted that this is hardly an exhaustive list and even a
casual glimpse in any Croatian cookbook is likely to be
worth the eort. Chocolate candy Bajadera is available
throughout shops in the country and along with Griotte
is one of the most famous products of the Croatian choco-
late industry.
An unavoidable ingredient in many meals prepared in
Croatia is Vegeta. It is a spice produced by Podravka.
Olives: a lot of people claim that Croatian olives and their
olive oil are the best in the world, which is not even well
known in Croatia and less worldwide. Many brands exist
and some of them have several world awards. Try to buy
olive oil from Istra (although oil from Dalmatia is also ex-
cellent) and choose only Croatian brands for olives (most
notable sms, few times awarded as the worlds best!). Try
to read the declaration before buying to ensure you are
buying Croatian olives and oil, since there are a lot of im-
ports (usually cheap products from Greece). All of this
can be found in most of the supermarkets, but you should
be really aware of the imports, most of the Croatian peo-
ple aren't experts and prefer cheaper products, so they
dominate. The olive oil is an irreplaceable ingredient in
the coastal cuisine, but you should be aware of the use of
cheaper, not Croatian, oil in restaurants because most of
the tourists don't notice the dierence so the restaurants
don't nd it protable to use excellent oil; they rather use
a better oil (and looking like an expert) helps, and soon
1.14. LEARN 11

he gets you a rst-class oil from a hidden place. 1.14 Learn

European Union citizens have the same status as Croa-
1.12 Drink tian citizens when applying to Croatian universities.
Full English-language courses in computer science and
Alcoholic: Rakija, a type of brandy which can be made medicine are available in Zagreb and Split.
of plum (ljivovica), grapes (loza), gs (smokovaa),
honey (medica) and many other types of fruit and aro-
matic herbs, is the main distilled beverage served in Croa- 1.15 Work
tia. Pelinkovac is a bitter herbal liquor popular in Central
Croatia, but is said to resemble cough-medicine in avor.
Famous Maraschino, a liquer avored with Marasca 1.15.1 Volunteering
cherries, which are grown around Zadar, Dalmatia.
Croatia is the destination of many worldwide volunteer
Croatia also produces a broad palette of high quality
organizations that send groups of volunteers throughout
wines (up to 700 wines with protected geographic ori-
the year to help with agriculture, community develop-
gin), beers and mineral water. On the coast people usu-
ment, education, animal welfare, and more. These pro-
ally serve bevanda with meals. Bevanda is heavy, richly
grams are put together by nonprots, community groups
avored red wine mixed with plain water. Its counterpart
and volunteers to help locals improve their economy and
in northern parts of Croatia is gemit. This term desig-
way of life. With rich cultural history and stunning coast-
nates dry, avored white wines mixed with mineral water.
line, Croatia is truly is the jewel of eastern Europe. If you
Two popular domestic beers are Karlovako and Ou- would like to travel to Croatia as a volunteer, visit these
jsko, but Velebitsko and Tomislav pivo have re- websites for volunteer programs, accommodations, travel
ceived a semi-cult status in the recent years. It is served dates, and tours.
only in some places in Zagreb and Croatia. Many well-
known European brands (Stella Artois, Becks, Carling,
Essential Croatia
Heineken and others) are made under license in Croatia.
Non-alcoholic: Mineral water, fruit juices, coee ISV Croatia
(espresso, Turkish or instant), tea, Cedevita (instant mul-
tivitamin drink), and drinkable yogurt. Sometimes al- Volunteers Centre Zagreb
though very rarely you may nd sok od bazge (elder-
ower juice) in the continental region. Worth trying!
Also, in Istria there is a drink called paareta and it is a 1.16 Stay safe
sparkling red drink with herbal extracts. Very sweet and
refreshing! In some parts of Istria (especially south) in
During summer make sure you use adequate SPF to pro-
local basements, you can try 'smrikva' - a non alcoholic
tect yourself from sunburn. There are no ozone holes over
refreshing drink made out of berries which grow on one
Croatia but its fairly easy to burn in the sun. If this hap-
sort of pine tree. The taste is a bit sour but very refresh-
pens make sure you get out of the sun, drink plenty of
ing.
uids and rehydrate your skin. The locals will often ad-
Alcoholic drinks can't be sold or served to anyone under vise covering the burnt spot with cold yogurt bought from
18, though this rule isn't strictly enforced. the supermarket.
In case of an emergency you can dial 112 - responsible
for dispatching all emergency services such as re depart-
1.13 Sleep ments, police, emergency medical assistance and moun-
tain rescue.
In Croatia there are 6 major types of accommodation:
Since the hostilities ended in 1995, there remain an esti-
mated 46.317 landmines in Croatia. However these are
Apartments
not to be found in areas visited by tourists. If you plan
Small private hotels to hike consult locals before you go. The mine suspected
areas are marked with 13.274 mine warning signs. Al-
Two- and three-star hotel resorts, for typical mass though mine are still problem for Croatia, it is highly un-
tourism likely you will spot any mineelds in Croatia today.
Five-star luxury hotels If you nd yourself in area that can be potential contam-
inated with mines, do not stray from marked roads or
Lighthouses
known safe areas. For further advice refer to Wikivoy-
Private islands ages war zone safety section.
12 CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

avoid drinking the home-made wine sold in relled plas-

tic jugs in many local farmers markets as it may cause
intestinal distress.

1.18 Respect
Keep in mind that the 1990s were marked by ethnic con-
ict and the bloody and brutal war in Croatia is still a
painful subject, but generally there should be no problem
if you approach that topic with respect. Visitors will nd
that domestic politics and European aairs are everyday
conversation subjects in Croatia.
A mine warning sign Visitors should avoid describing Croatia as a Balkan
country, as Croats prefer to think of their country as
Mediterranean and Central European, and some will take
Watch out for bura wind danger signs. The bura can be oence at the word Balkan. Geographically, southern
particularly strong in the Velebit area, where it can blow and coastal Croatia is part of the Balkans, while areas
up to 200 km/h and overturn lorries. However, if the wind north of the Sava and Kupa rivers are not.
is strong enough to pose a signicant danger to all traf- Socially, displays of aection among the younger genera-
c on a road section, that section will be closed. During tion are the same as Western European standards, but the
strong bura wind, avoid any activity on the sea. Accidents older generation (over 65) are still quite conservative.
caused by wind occurs every year and claim tourists lives
in Croatia. From sailing accidents to drownings due to When driving on rural roads, particularly when a driver
high water. has to pull in to allow you to pass, it is customary to wave
a thanks to the other driver by raising your hand from the
Avoid strip clubs at all costs. They are often run by steering wheel.
very shady characters, and often overcharge their guests.
Recent cases include foreigners who were charged 2000 Most Croats will respond to thank you with something
euros for a bottle of champagne. These clubs overcharge along the lines of It was nothing or not at all which is
their customers to the extreme, and their bouncers will equivalent to the English Don't mention it.
not have any mercy if you tell them you can't pay. You
will soon nd yourself in a local hospital. Using common
sense is essential, but due to the nature of the clubs this 1.19 Connect
may be in short supply, and you may be better advised
simply to steer well clear of these clubs. 1.19.1 Telephone
Abuse of LGBT people is possible in Croatia, so travelers
should avoid public displays of same-sex aection. Croatia uses the GSM 900/1800 system for mobile
phones. There are three providers, T-Mobile (also op-
erates the Bonbon prepaid brand), Vip (also operates the
Tomato prepaid brand) and Tele2. Over 98% of the coun-
1.17 Stay healthy trys area is covered. Since 2006 UMTS (3G) is available
as well, and as of 2013 also HSDPA and LTE. If you
No vaccinations are required when going to Croatia. have an unlocked phone, you can buy a prepaid SIM card
for 20 kn. There have been promotions in which SIM
If you're going camping or hiking in continental Croatia cards were given avay for free with newspapers (7 kn) and
during summer, you should be aware of ticks and tick-
sometimes even literally handed out on the street. GSM
carrying diseases such as encephalitis and lyme disease. phones bundled with T-Mobile or Vip prepaid SIM cards
Approximately 3 ticks in 1000 carry the virus.
can be found in post oces, grocery stores and kiosks at
In Eastern Slavonia (particularly around the Kopaki Rit varying prices.
near Osijek) wear long sleeves and take insect repellent. An alternative to using a mobile phone is Calling Cards
Tap water in Croatia is perfectly safe, and in some ar- which can be found in postal oces and kiosks, there are
eas considered the best in the world. However, you can two providers, Dencall and Hitme. You can buy cards
still choose from several brands of excellent bottled water from 25 kn.
(Jamnica being the most popular, and Jana, several times
Area Codes: When calling between cities (actually be-
awarded as the worlds best bottled water). tween counties) or from a mobile phone, you must dial
Though the water may be some of the best in the world, specic area codes: (area code)+(phone number)
1.19. CONNECT 13

Zagreb (01) Split (021) Rijeka (051) Dubrovnik (020)

ibenik/Knin (022) Zadar (023) Osijek (031) Vuko-
var (032) Virovitica (033) Poega (034) Slavonski Brod
(035) akovec (040) Varadin (042) Bjelovar (043) Sisak
(044) Karlovac (047) Koprivnica (048) Krapina (049) Is-
tria (052) Lika/Senj (053) Mobile phones (091) (092)
(095) (097) (098) or (099)

1.19.2 Internet
ADSL is common in Croatia. A 4 Mbit connection with
unlimited downloads costs 178 kn (24) per month via
T-Com and just 99 kn with some other providers like
Metronet or Iskon. Cable internet is available from B.net
with a wide range of speeds and prices.
Internet cafs are available in all major cities. They are
relatively cheap and reliable. A free Wi-Fi signal can be
found virtually in every city (cafs, restaurants, hotels,
some libraries, schools, colleges). Private unsecured net-
works have become uncommon.

1.19.3 Postal service

Croatias postal service is generally reliable, even if some-
times a bit slow. Every city and town has a post oce.
Here you can nd their exact locations, and here is the
price list (the prices change often).

1.19.4 Television, radio and printed media

HRT, the public television broadcaster, operates four
channels, while the commercial networks RTL and Nova
TV have two channels each. Foreign lms and series
are shown with sound in the original language (English,
Turkish, German, Italian...) and Croatian subtitles. Only
childrens programming is dubbed. Many hotels and pri-
vate apartments have some channels from other European
countries (mostly from Germany).
Radio stations that feature English-language pop/rock
music are HRT-HR 2, Otvoreni and Totalni. They all
have occasional trac reports, but only HR 2 trans-
lates them into English, German and Italian during the
summer. Other nationwide stations are HRT-HR 1
(news/features), HRT-HR 3 (mostly classical music),
Narodni (Croatian pop) and HKR (Catholic radio).
Newspapers and magazines from Germany, Austria,
Italy, France, the United Kingdom, Russia, Slovenia, Ser-
bia and other countries are available in Croatia. In Zagreb
and the northern coastal areas some foreign newspapers
arrive on the cover date, elsewhere they are late.
Chapter 2

Samobor

Samobor is 25km west of Zagreb, Croatia. The town has 2.2.3 By train
a population of 36,207, as of the 2001 census.
A train link will be reconnected to Samobor in 2010.

2.1 Understand
2.3 Get around

2.4 See

2.5 Do

2.6 Buy

2.7 Eat

2.8 Drink
Samobor main square
2.9 Sleep
Samobor is a picturesque medieval town with well pre-
Hotel Lavica, Ferde Livadica 5. 312-520 kuna.
served old lore and long tourist tradition. The prevailing
architecture is that of the Baroque period. The town is
also reputed to be the place where the best kremnite - Hotel Livadic, +385 1 3365 851. 62.
one of Croatias best known cakes - are made.
Samoborski Slapovi, Hamor 16, +385 1 3384
061.
2.2 Get in
Hotel Garni Samobor, +385 1 3366 970.

2.2.1 By car

Samobor is a short 20 minute drive from the Zagreb city

2.10 Connect
center. Take the A3 towards the Slovenian border.
2.11 Go next
2.2.2 By bus Zagreb
Samobor is accessible by bus from Zagreb. Buses leave Ljubljana, Slovenia
approximately every 15 minutes from rnomerec termi-
nal and every 30 minutes from Autobusni kolodvor (main
bus station) and Ljubljanica terminal.

14
Chapter 3

Central Croatia

Central Croatia is the north-central region of Croatia, 3.9 Drink

and location of the capital.

3.10 Stay safe

3.1 Cities
3.11 Go next
Zagreb

Karlovac

Krapina

Krapinske Toplice

Sisak

Varadin

Vrbovec, a small town near Zagreb

3.2 Other destinations

3.3 Understand

3.4 Get in

3.5 Get around

3.6 See

3.7 Do
In 2009 at the end of August, near the village of
Jagnjedovec - close to Koprivnica - the multicultural
festival Mnogo u Malom (a lot in a pot) is held in the
summer. See the site for the 2008 website.

3.8 Eat

15
Chapter 4

Karlovac

Karlovac is a city in the northwest Croatia, 45 km

southwest of Zagreb with a population of approximately
60,000.

4.1 Understand
The town is located at the junction of 4 rivers is stun-
ning. Almost everyone knows Karlovac as the city on
four rivers. In fact, only three ow through the very city
and the fourth, the river Dobra, is a bit on the outskirts -
Dobra. Of course, natives will talk about the fth river
the one made of beer. Dubovac Castle
The town plan is unique as the historic town center is in
the shape of a 6-point star and was constructed in the 16th Old Town Dubovac: a fort from the 15th century,
century as a fortication against the invading Turks dou- situated on one of the nearest hills. Not many activ-
ble of the back cush pink centre pocket. ities can be found there, but you will nd it natural,
also natural in uncommercial way. Great view of the
city. In summer some performances can be seen up
4.2 Get in there.

Rivers & Beaches: Korana, Mrenica, Kupa, Do-

4.2.1 By bus bra. In summer river banks are turning into shy
beaches and are great for whole day activities.
Buses and trains depart frequently from Zagreb (50 min-
utes)
4.5 Do
4.2.2 By car
Mountain Biking. Mountain biking is recom-
A trip by car on the A1/A6 takes only about 20 minutes mended. Lots of preserved trails all around the city
from Jadranski Bridge. and enthusiastic bikers who'll gladly guide you.

Swimming / Rafting / Kayaking. Great swimming

in summer months in Karlovac rivers Korana and
4.3 Get around near by Mrenica with rafting and kayaking.

The best way to get around is by bicycle.

4.5.1 Festivals
Karlovacki Dani Piva. end of August. Annual
4.4 See beer festival. The most crowded place at that time
of summer, with various folks around. You can grab
There are a few museums and a fortress on Dubovac hill a beer and pretzel and see if theres a music which
with great views of the town. suits you.

16
4.10. GO NEXT 17

Karlovac Piano Festival, e-mail: 1 Hostel Na putu, Trg bana Petra Zrinskog
karlovacpianofestival@gmail.com. Karlovac 17. 47000 Karlovac, +385 47296235, e-mail:
Piano Festival is typically held in mid-summer. info@hostelnaputu.com. Check-in: after 12:00pm,
It consists of piano lessons and master classes check-out: before 11:00am. Reception: 8am-
with renowned piano pedagogues, concerts and 10pm, Monday-Sunday. Newly opened (August
International Piano Competition. 2014) and rst hostel/backpacker style accommoda-
tion in the city centre. Owned by an Irish/Croatian
couple. Hostel Na putu currently has 20 beds in 5, 7
& 8 bed sized dorms and oers all the usual hostel
4.6 Buy extras: free linen, free wi, free tea & coee, fully
equipped kitchen, security lockers and large com-
There are not many shopping options, but there are many mon areas for socialising. 11-15. (updated Mar
grocery stores. 2015)

4.9.2 Mid-range
4.7 Eat
Hotel Carlstadt. $72-80.
4.8 Drink
Hotel Restaurant Zganjer, Jelai 41, +385 47
751 200.

4.9.3 Splurge
Hotel Europa, Banija 161, +385 47 609 666.
$128-136.

Hotel Korana Srakovcic. Directly on a lake. $147-

175.

4.10 Go next

Karlovako beer

Karlovac is the home of Croatias most famous brewery,

Karlovako, which is a must try.

4.9 Sleep

4.9.1 Budget

As in the case with most of Croatia, rooms are available

in private houses.
Chapter 5

Krapina

Krapina is a city in Central Croatia. 5.3 Get around

Getting around is not an issue you should be concerned
by. Krapina is a very small town and you can see all the
sights on foot. If you arrived by car you will have to pay
for parking in the city.

5.4 See

View on Krapina

5.1 Understand
Krapina is a small town in northern Croatia and also an
administrative and cultural centre of Krapinsko-zagorska
county. It is administrative centre of Krapinsko-zagorska
county located approximately 55 km from Zagreb, Croa-
tias capital. The city is rst mentioned in 1193 but has Reconstruction of the Neanderthal family at Hunjak hill
even longer history.
Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej Krapinskih Ne-
andertalaca) This is where you enter a time machine
5.2 Get in and go far back into the past. You will travel to Earths
history. Here you can nd out all about the anatomy, cul-
ture and the environment of the Neanderthal. The mu-
By train a railway connects Krapina and Zagreb. The
seum is located in situ, in other words, on the prehistoric
train ride takes from 1h 30 min up to 2 h depending on the
habitat. You will learn all about Dr. Kramberger, the
train category, half a dozen trains daily, most requiring a
man behind the epochal discovery. The museum has all
change of train in Zabok. The price is 40 kn ca 5 (one
sorts of multimedia content so its a great place to visit
way)
with your family (your kids will love every minute).
By bus the bus leaves from Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb
and the ride takes about 1h. It will cost you ca 50 kn (ca
7)
5.5 Do
By car it takes you ca 50 minutes if you use an A2
highway (exit Krapina) but it will cost you ca 10; other
route is on Zagorska magistrala (Zagreb-Zabok-Krapina). 5.6 Buy
It takes longer (ca 1h 15 min) but you don't pay toll.

18
5.11. GO NEXT 19

5.7 Eat

5.8 Drink

5.9 Sleep
Krapina doesnt have any hotel in the city. Nearest hotels
are in Krapinske Toplice, 15 km from Krapina.

5.10 Connect

5.11 Go next
Chapter 6
Krapinske Toplice
Krapinske Toplice is city the northwest Croatia, 45 km
northhwest of Zagreb, well known as one of the most pop-
ular thermal spas in this part of Europe.
6.1 Understand
Krapinske Toplice is well known for its thermal spas, sit-
uated in a quiet and beautiful valley surrounded by pic-
turesque hills of Croatian Zagorje. Croatian Zagorje is
settled in the north-west part of Croatia and belongs to
the middle part of Croatia. The region of Zagorje is
well known for its forests, springs and culinary delica-
cies. Zagorje is best known for one of the most signicant
world localities of Neanderthals, Hunjakovo, where
the remains of the Krapina prehistoric man are found.
Zagorje treasures numerous of historical stories and folk
legends but most of all has many thermal springs which
are known since the time when the Roman armies ruled
this territory.
Krapinske Toplice has 6th best thermal water in Europe.
In 2015. was opened the biggest indoor water park in
Croatia.
6.2 Get in
6.2.1 By bus
There are hourly or even half-hourly buses from Zagreb
throughout most of the day, the journey takes 50 minutes
and costs between 40 and 50 kuna.
6.2.2 By car
A trip by car on the motorway takes only about 10 min-
utes from exit Zabok, or 35 minutes from exit in Zagreb.
20
6.3 See
Water Park Aquae Vivae: new, the biggest water
park on over 18.000 m2 in Croatia with thermal wa-
ter
Kraneamus Krapina Neanderthal Museum: The
new museum is located near the world famous site of
the Krapina Neanderthals Hunjakovo in Krapina
(15 km from Krapinske Toplice). Size of 1200 m2,
this is one of the most modern museums in Croa-
tia and this part of Europe. You can expect an in-
teresting story about life and culture of the Nean-
derthal man in Krapina, numerous multimedia con-
tents and above all a unique architecture. Museum
is connected with the original founding site of the
Neanderthal man, on the Hunjakovo hill.
Museum The Old Village, Kumrovec: open air
museum situated in Kumrovec, 15 km from Krap-
inske Toplice in which there are presented crafts
and traditions of Croatian Zagorje between 19th and
20th century. The permanent exhibition of ethno-
graphic and historical exhibitions are: weaving, gin-
gerbread, pottery, blacksmith products and birth-
place of Josip Broz Tito.
Castle Veliki Tabor: near Desini - 20 km from
Krapinske Toplice - The rst tower was built in the
12th century, other towers were built in the 15th and
16th century, and todays look was achieved in the
1820. Most notable owners and inhabitants were the
Celjski and the Ratkaj counts and the great Croatian
painter Oton Ivekovi. Special feature of the castle
is a big well which is 31 meter deep and the big rustic
hall with halberds. UNESCO rated the castle in the
highest category of monuments. Today castle is a
museum with permanent collection.
Trakoan Castle: near Macelj, 35 km from Krap-
inske Toplice - Built in the 13th century and has
changed several owners. Through centuries, among
the owners were the Celjski counts, general Jan Vi-
tovac, Ivani Korvin and sub-governor Ivan Gyulay.
Sub-marshal Juraj V. Drakovi renewed the castle
and turned its environment into a romantic garden.
6.8. GO NEXT 21

Today the castle belongs to the Republic of Croatia

and its a museum with permanent collection.

6.4 Do

6.5 Eat

6.6 Drink

6.7 Sleep

6.7.1 Budget
As in the case with most of Croatia, rooms are available
in private houses.

6.7.2 Splurge
Hotel Villa Magdalena, Mirna ulica 1,
+38549233333, fax: +38549233345, e-mail:
info@villa-magdalena.net. Four stars hotel with
unique accommodation - thermal water in every
suite living room $147-175. (updated Jun 2015)

6.8 Go next
Chapter 7

Sisak

Victor Hugo

7.2 Get in
Sisak is a major hub of rail, roads, and river boating.

7.2.1 By train
Sisak is on Croatias main railway line, which travels from
Zidani Most in Slovenia to Zagreb and nally to Sisak,
terminating at the grand 1880s railway building at the bot-
tom edge of the centre of twon town. In addition to the
numerous train services operate each day to Zagreb (in-
cluding the new, high-speed tilt train which completes the
journey in around 35 min), there are services to Novska
and Rijeka. The Croatian Railways website has informa-
tion on train times and tickets. The railway station is be-
Sisak is a very important industrial and cultural city city ing renovated and modernised. Before the war there was
in Croatia. Its on three rivers: the Sava, Kupa and Odra. a railway line that ran from Sisak and Karlovac, but that
The Kupa ows through the old town. Sisak has about line was destroyed during the war.
50,000 inhabitants, with a metropolitan area of about
80,000.
7.2.2 By bus
You can take the bus from Zagreb, Petrinja, Kutina,
Karlovac, Munich, Frankfurt, and etc..
7.1 Understand
7.2.3 By car
Sisak is the biggest river port in Croatia. You can sail to
Sisak with the Victor Hugo boat that sails from Budapest, Main highways pass nearby to Sisak from Zagreb through
Novi Sad, Belgrade and Slavonski Brod. to Belgrade, which is 24 kilometers northeast of Sisak.

22
7.4. SEE 23

Highway A11, which is under construction, passes from century, within the walls remains horreum - barns,
Zagreb to Sisak and will in the future be extended to the built in the early 4th century.
border with Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Driving to Sisak is easy with good signposting from all
directions, and there is on-street as well as lot parking in
the town.

7.3 Get around

The whole city has 12 districts/blocks: Centar - South,
Centar - North, Centar - East, Centar - West, Zeleni
Brijeg, Zibel, Tomev put, Galdovo, eljezara, Vrbina,
Naselje, Viktorovac.
You can see a lot of bikes paths in the center of city, you
can easily use it.
Siscia in Situ
Taxis serve the whole city and have colours of city, green
and blue.

7.4 See

Old Bridge (Stari most), the rst wooden bridge on

the Kupa River was built in 1862, merged the Civil
and Military Sisak (left and right banks of the river
Kupa). In 1934 built the brick bridge, which be-
comes one of the symbols of the city, and the locals
call it the Old Bridge. This bridge is built from tra-
ditional materials Sisak, stone and brick.

Sisak historic ring, next to the building of Mali

Kaptol is set Sisak historic ring. Seven showcases,
which are located below the oor level, presented
the seven most important period multy-century his-
Inside of Fortress tory of the city of Sisak.

Promenade Slavo Striegl, the promenade is the

Old Fortress, the old town is a fortress from the
16th century. Under which took place the Battle of
Sisak on June 22nd 1593. The fort is a heritage site.
From the Old Town to the city of Sisak is approxi-
mately two kilometers by road or mile promenade.
Siscia in Situ, the archeological park Siscia '' in situ
'' - the remains of Roman architecture. Southwest-
ern walls with tower from the late 2nd - early 3rd
heart of the city, a place to hang out, talk, here you
can refresh yourself in one of the many cafes and
enjoy the view of the river. In the 18th century here
were located port facilities. A walk will encounter a
steam crane, near the Capitol building Mali. It is a
modernized river trac and replace manpower. The
combination of river and rail transport determine the
development of the city in the 20th century.
24
Mali Kaptol and the famous train
Mali Kaptol, is one of the oldest brick house was
built in the Baroque period in the late 18th century;
here is located Sisak jazz club, one of the most fa-
mous jazz clubs in the world in general. Mali Kaptol
away from the Old Bridge about 500 meters.
7.5 Do
Cathedral of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross,
cathedral of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross -
Church Diocese of Sisak, located at Ban Jelacic
Square, next to the archaeological park Siscia in
situ. The present church was built in the rst half
of the 18th century. On 05 December 2009, Pope
Benedict XVI, again founded Sisak Diocese under
Bishop Vlado Kosic, and their former parish church
of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross declared the
cathedral.
Veliki Kaptol, is one of the most valuable exam-
CHAPTER 7. SISAK
ples of architectural classicism in Sisak built 1830.g.
The building is 1839 performed the rst theater per-
formance in Croatian stokavian, Juran and Soja
Ivan Kukuljevic Sakcinski or Turks under Sisak.
Big Capitol is located on Ban Jelacic Square in the
vicinity of the Old Bridge. Since 2009, the seat of
the Diocese of Sisak.
House Lieberman, house with a beautiful wrought
iron is House Lieberman. It was built in 1856 and
was owned Sisak dealer Lieberman. It is the old-
est Sisak Jewish family that moved to the city in the
early 19th century. His fortune and reputation ac-
quired in the trade with grain.
Palace Grga Tuskan
Music School Fran Lhotka / Sisak Synagogue, in
the rst half of the 19th century Sisak grew from a
small village in an important trade center of Croa-
tian and attracts people from various parts of the
Habsburg Monarchy. The rst Jews in Sisak come
as merchants. Very fast becoming an important fac-
tor of economic development of the city and the syn-
agogue was built between 1862 and 1890, their spir-
itual center. After World War II the synagogue was
converted into a music school, which until now ex-
ists in this area.
Celtic Night, During the rst days of September,
when the moon is young, on the Promenade near
the Kupa River, a natural gathering venue of cit-
izens of Sisak and their guests, the Celtic Night
happens. All along the left bank of the Kupa, on
which the town centre abuts, between two bridges
of Sisak, thousands of people get together to proudly
revise a great history lesson in the open, on the river
which has always meant life for the town of Sisak. In
the glow of spotlights, walking with heroes, athletes,
and leaders, with rich cultural and gastronomic of-
fer, with playful laugh of a happy child..., with magic
potion served to us along the bank on the Prome-
nade by druids and sorceresses, there are pictures
on oats emerging, connected with owing candles,
accompanied by music and a voice which claries,
reminds and revives all that what is property and her-
itage of us all, each of the pictures being related to
a great historical event, each with its story and its
hero. Characters from books and legends, in their
costumes and very special, precious possession of
memory of the town of Sisak, in the light of the can-
dles tell the Celtic Night, that, what we are going
to leave to the coming generations: glorious history
of the town which has broken invaders, opposed the
powerful but also has left a lasting memorial in the
history of the Croatian people.
7.11. GO NEXT 25

7.6 Buy
There a numerous stores Mlin i Pekare, Konzum,
Lonia, Interspar, Kauand, Lidl, Billa, etc..

7.7 Eat
Mali Kaptol, resturant. +385 (0)44 521-232

7.8 Drink
You can drink on the promenade, Riva cae, Banana
cae, Zlatne godine etc..

7.9 Sleep
Hotel Panonija ***, the only big hotel in the
city, renovated in 2007, +385 (0)44 515 600,
fax: +385 (0)44 515 601, email: [], www.
hotel-panonija.hr

Rooms Sisak ****, modern rooms located on the

new promenade in the center, +385 (0)44 540 196

7.10 Connect

7.11 Go next
Chapter 8
Varadin
Varadin is one of the most important tourist centers of
northern Croatia. The old town fortication, the central
part of the town, numerous museums, galleries and col-
lections as well as the Varadin cemetery, protected as
a horticultural monument, represent the main tourist at-
tractions of this Central European Baroque town and an-
cient Croatian capital. Varadin is located on the right
bank of the Drava river in north-western Croatia, 79 km
north of Zagreb.
King Tomislav Square
8.1 Understand
Stari grad - Old City
The rst written reference to Varadin dates back to
1181, when the nearby thermal springs Varadinske
26
Toplice were mentioned by King Bela III in a legal docu-
ment.
In 1209 Varadin was declared a free royal borough by
the Croatian-Hungarian King Andrew II which allowed it
to develop into the economic and military centre of north-
ern Croatia. Due to the frequent Ottoman raids, the town
was structured defensively around the old fortress, thus
acquiring the shape of a typical medieval Wasserburg.
As early as the 13th century the Knights Hospitaller (in
Croatian Ivanovci) came to Varadin, where they built a
church and a monastery.
At the end of the 14th century the Varadin fortress
passed into the hands of the Earls of Celje. Over the fol-
lowing centuries Varadin had several owners, the most
inuential being Beatrice Frankopan, Margrave Juraj of
Brandenburg, who built the town hall; the last was Baron
Ivan Ungnad, who reinforced the existing fortication.
When at the end of the 16th century Count Toma Baka
Erddy became its owner, assuming the hereditary posi-
tion of Varadin prefect (upan), the fortress remained in
the ownership of his family until 1925.
In 1756, Ban Franjo Nadasdy chose Varadin as his of-
cial residence turning Varadin into the capital of all of
Croatia. It hosted Croatian Sabor and the Royal Croatian
Council founded by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria.
Reformation and the counter-reformation left a lasting
mark on Varadin. With the arrival of the Jesuits, the
school and the convent were founded. Furthermore, a
number of churches and monasteries were built in the
baroque style. As Varadin was the seat of many Croatian
noblemen in 1756 it became the administrative center of
Croatia. However, when the great re of 1776 destroyed
most of the town, administrative institutions moved back
to Zagreb.
By the 19th century Varadin had been completely re-
built and expanded. Crafts and commerce, and later the
manufacture of silk and bricks ourished resulting in the
creation of the towns theatre, music school, and re de-
partment.
8.3. GET AROUND
8.2 Get in
Due to its adventageous geographic location, the town is
easily accessible to many neighbouring countries.
8.2.1 By bus
Buses are very frequent from Zagreb and take around 90
minutes - check the timetables or the Zagreb Bus Sta-
tions website for times. Services into the neighbouring
areas are quite frequent, some going over the border into
Hungary. Buses also leave from other major Croatian
cities almost daily for Varadin. Online information for
buses to Varadin can be found at the Varadin Transit
website .
International departures (especially for Austria,
Germany, Hungary and beyond) often make a stop
in the town, and if there is a later bus that day, companies
normally honour a 'break of journey' to visit the town for
a few hours.
Note in Varadin that the bus station is located on the Gallery of Old and Contemporary Masters - Sermage Palace
western side of town, and the railway station is located on
the eastern side, with a distance of around 2km between.
8.2.2 By car
Those travelling from Graz in Austria should proceed to
Maribor taking the M3 road to Ptuj from which they can
cross into Croatia.
Travellers coming from Nagykanizsa or Budapest should
use the A4 motorway once they enter Croatia which con-
nects Varadin with the Hungarian border.
Travellers from Zagreb can use A4 motorway which will
take them to their destination in less than an hour.
8.2.3 By train
The most scenic and cheapest (but slowest) way to get to
Varadin from Zagreb is a local train (2h20) stopping at
every station between the two cities. The price of a return
ticket is 80kn (roughly 10 euros), with discounts for ISIC
card holders. Recently, the speed of the journey dramati-
cally improved with the addition of a faster (though more
expensive) alternative of the high-speed tilting train con-
nection operated by Hrvatske eljeznice (Croatian rail-
ways).
Train services also operate north to akovec and Ko-
privnica (with further connections to Slavonia and
Hungary), and there is a daily service to Split and to
Budapest in Hungary.
As of May 2008, the train station in Varadin was closed
for renovations. Trains still ran, but timetable information
and tickets needed to be purchased elsewhere.
27
8.3 Get around
8.4 See
Stari grad (Old city} is a beautiful medieval
fortress. Although its construction began in the 14th
century, it was greatly expanded in the 15th cen-
tury when the rounded towers that typify the Gothic
architecture of northern Croatia were added by the
Earl of Celje. In 1925 it was turned into Gradski
muzej (Town museum). Which houses paintings,
furniture, weapons and decorative objects important
for the Varadins history. In 1994, it was the rst
Croatian museum nominated for the European Mu-
seum of the Year Award. (Tuesdays - Fridays: 10
AM - 5 PM; Saturdays and Sundays: 10 AM - 1
PM; Closed on Mondays. +385 42 43-712, +385
42 212-918)
Galerija starih i novih majstora (Gallery of Old
and Contemporary Masters). Is hosted in the rococo-
style Sermage Palace built in 1759 and donated to
the museum by the City of akovec in 1947. The
gallerys holdings include over 3,000 pieces. Many
old masters works served as the basis of todays
permanent collection displaying 61 paintings from
the 15th to the end of the 19th century. The most
valuable pieces are those by Dutch masters from the
17th and 18th centuries as well as the portraits by
both local and naturalized masters: A. Moses, M.
Brodnik and M. Stroy. The gallery also holds works
by the famous Croatian contemporary masters: V.
Bei, Lj. Babi, R. Frange-Mihanovi, as well
as by a number of local painters and sculptors from
Hrvatsko zagorje and Meimurje. Particularly valu-
able are the collections of Miljenko Stani's and Ivo
Reeks works (Tuesdays - Fridays: 10 AM - 5 PM;
Saturdays and Sundays: 10 AM - 1 PM; Closed on
28
Mondays; Trg Miljenka Stancica 3; +385 42 214-
172).
Entomoloka zbirka (Entomological Collection). Is
located at the early Classicist Herzer Palace in the
center of the town. The rst collection was estab-
lished by Franjo pl. Koec (1882-1968), the local
high-school teacher and entomologist. He donated
his large natural scientic collections to the City of
Varadin in 1959. His work was, in the 1962-1980
period, continued by his daughter Ruica Koec.
Since 1903 some 50,000 specimens have been col-
lected. The collection also includes enlarged models
of certain insect species. Over the years, the hold-
ings have been expanded by entomological material
from the territory of northwestern Croatia. Its scien-
tically valuable collections, including several tens
of thousand specimens, bring testimony of natural
properties and environmental changes, thus consti-
tuting an inevitable source of information for the
elaboration of the Croatian fauna inventory (+385
42 213-491).
8.5 Do
8.6 Buy
There are numerous nice souvenirs for you to buy in
Varadin. It is best to buy them from hard working ar-
tisans that have their own corner in Varadin. The most
famous of them is a Hatter (Klobuar). Owner of a small
stand full of handcrafted hats has a nickname Herc and
its one of the most recognized man in town. Next to him
is a hard working Blacksmith who crafts lovely souvenirs
and next to him is a Tailor with tons of souvenir clothing.
8.7 Eat
Decent lunch can be found in Zlatne ruke (Golden hands).
Best place for pizza and pasta is Angelus, across the street
from the city park. One can nd delicious pizza in Re-
bus, about 10 km in Kuan (dirfections have to be added).
Zvonimir restaurant provides great pizzas and there are
many restaurants outside of Varazdin such as Cesljas on
Varazdin breg. McDonalds is i Vrazova street. Next to
the McDonalds there is Billy Kebab. The best kebap
can be found in Zagtrebaka, 50 m south of the post of-
ce, and Gajeva street (same oweners). One can get pizza
slices 30m from McDonalds.
There are numerous caes in the centre. Bars with R&B
music are Soho, Tiki Bar, Morgans Bar, Mea Culpa,
Rock Art Cae. Main stream alternatives can have a good
time in Lavra. One can enjoy a good beer and rock mu-
sic in Vienna, Cae Theatre (formerly known az Rogoz),
CHAPTER 8. VARADIN
Kult, Sax and Old City Pub. Vienna is across the road
from the town theatre, Cae Theatre is in the theatre, Kult
is 200 m from the rst two bars, Sax is next to McDon-
alds, Old City Pub is about 200 m from Stancic Square.
8.8 Sleep
Hotel Turist (Aleja kralja Zvonimira 1, 42000
Varadin; telephone +385 42 395-395). A 3-star ho-
tel with 46 single rooms, 58 twin rooms and 5 suites
of total capacity of some 100 beds. The suites and
the rooms are equipped with a bath, TV/SAT, tele-
phone and a mini bar.
Hotel La'Gus (Varadinski breg bb, 42204 Turin;
telephone +385 42 652-940). A 3-star hotel located
outside Varadin. It has 26 double rooms and 2
suites. There is a mini bar, a satellite TV set and
a direct telephone line in every room, plus a small
kitchen in all the suites.
Motel Garestin (Zagrebaka 34, 42000 Varadin;
telephone +385 42 214-314) - a new establishment
within a short walk from the bus station.
Pension Maltar (Preernova 1, 42000 Varadin;
telephone +385 42 311-100). Has 10 rooms (with
22 beds) so booking in advance is recommended.
The website is in Croatian.
8.9 Go next
Varadinske Toplice (Varadin Thermal Spa) is
located 12km to the south-east of Varadin. The
famous spa renowned for its warm sulphuric wa-
ter were established by the Romans in the 1st cen-
tury AD. These days it is a destination with a range
of modern indoor and outdoor pools. Varadinske
Toplice can be reached by bus from Varaidn. The
ride takes around half an hour.
Trakoscan Castle is a stunning 12th-century forti-
ed castle and one of the few from that period that
are still standing in Europe. A major reconstruction
was undertaken in early 19th century giving it a dis-
tinct neo-gothic look. It can be reached by bus from
Varadin (the bus fare costs 25KN).
Nagykanizsa in Hungary and Graz in Austria are
also just a short distance away.
Chapter 9

Vrbovec

Vrbovec is in Zagreb county, Croatia, 32km northeast of Castle of Patai.

Zagreb. The town has a population of 14,658, as of the
2001 census. Castle of Lovreina Grad.

Church of Saint Vitus.

9.1 Understand
Vrbovec is a born place of Ban Petar Zrinski, a Croatian 9.5 Do
hero from middle-age.
For all who would like to meet with typical way of Croa- NK Vrbovec Football. A member of third division
tian life, Vrbovec oers peaceful staying and feeling like of the Croatian Soccer League.
at home.
9.5.1 Festivals
9.2 Get in Kaj su jeli nai stari. June 15. Traditional festival
of cooking of old specialities from the past
9.2.1 By car

Well connected by the A4 highway, then by D28 express- 9.6 Buy

way, it takes only 25 minutes by car from Zagreb.

9.7 Eat
9.2.2 By train

It takes 35-45 minutes by train from main train station in

9.8 Drink
Zagreb.
9.9 Sleep
9.2.3 By bus
9.10 Connect
It takes 45 minutes by bus from main bus-station in
Zagreb.
9.11 Go next

9.3 Get around

9.4 See
Mausoleum of family De Piennes (in the local
cemetery).

Tower of Petar Zrinski.

29
Chapter 10
Zagreb
10.2.1 By plane
Flights
Ban Jelai Square
Zagreb is a city in Central Croatia and the capital of
Croatia.
10.1 Understand
Zagreb is a vibrant city of around 800,000 people
(metropolitan area: 1,200,000). The city boasts a charm-
ing medieval 'old city' with architecture and cobbled
streets reminiscent of Vienna, Budapest, Prague and
other Central-European capitals. In 2005 it was vis-
ited by over half a million tourists, mainly from Austria,
Germany and Italy.
10.1.1 Tourist Information
1 Turistiki informativni centar (Tourist Informa-
tion Centre - Ban Jelacic Square), Trg bana Josipa
Jelaia 11. Mo-Fr 8:30-21:00; Sa-Su 09:00-18:00.
(updated Sep 2016)
Other information points are located at the airport, bus
station, railway station and at the Lotrak Tower.
10.2 Get in
30
1 Franjo Tuman Airport (Zagreb International
Airport) (in the locality of Pleso in 17 Km south-east
from the city centre). (updated Sep 2016)
Croatia Airlines, the national carrier and member
of Star Alliance, ies to Amsterdam, Athens,
Barcelona, Brussels, Copenhagen, Dsseldorf,
Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Istanbul, London, Madrid,
Moscow, Munich, Paris, Podgorica, Pristina, Tel
Aviv, Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Vienna, Zurich.
Domestically, Croatia Airlines operates numerous
ights to Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Osijek (seasonal)
and Pula.
THY-Turkish Air Lines ies to/from Istanbul daily
Lufthansa ies several times a day to Munich and
Frankfurt, and low-cost carrier German Wings ies
to and from Cologne, Stuttgart, Hamburg and Berlin
(Schnefeld).
Austrian operates many ights to Vienna each day.
TAP Portugal ies from Zagreb to Lisbon three
times a week (Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays) via
Bologna in Italy.
Iberia operates ights to Madrid from Summer
2009.
SAS operates ights to Stockholm. - but this service
is currently suspended since mid-2009
Air France operates ights to Paris-Charles de
Galle.
Aeroot ies to Moscow.
yDubai ies to Dubai.
KLM ies to Amsterdam.
Air Serbia ies to Belgrade.
LOT ies to Warsaw (resumes 2 January 2016).
10.2. GET IN 31

Qatar Airlines ies to Doha. from the bus station towards the airport, the buses
are scheduled between 04:30 and 20:30. A journey
TradeAir ies to Osijek, Rijeka. takes approx. 30 min. Single 30 Kn; Return (on
Vueling ies to Barcelona (seasonal). day) 40 Kn. (updated Jan 2017)

AirFrance ies to Paris.

10.2.2 By bus
Air Transat ies to Toronto (begins 15 June 2016)
(seasonal). 1 Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb (Zagreb Bus Termi-
British Airways nal), Av. Marina Dria 4 (to the south-east of the
railway station - approximately 10 minutes walk, or
Brussels Airlines 3 stops by tram (lines 2 and 6)), +385 1 6112 789.
Timetable information and prices can be found at the
EL AL Israel Airlines AKZ website. Numerous Croatian and International
Emirates coach operators maintain scheduled lines covering
all major domestic and European cities. (updated
Eurowings Sep 2016)
Korean Air
International destinations are as far as London, Paris,
Monarch Rotterdam and Amsterdam, numerous cities in Germany,
Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Slovakia, Czech Repub-
Norwegian
lic, Slovenia, Hungary, many destinations in Bosnia
Sundor and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia.
Direct buses from Budapest, Hungary to Zagreb by
Swiss Eurobusways.

Neighboring airports in Rijeka, Ljubljana, Graz,
Klagenfurt and Trieste are serviced by low-cost carriers
and are often a viable alternative to travelling directly to
Zagreb. EasyJet ies to Rijeka, Ljubljana and Ryan Air
ies to Pula,Graz and Klagenfurt.
Left luggage (at the arrival terminal 106). 24/7.
For baggage up to 15 Kg: 5 Kn per piece per hour
up to 4 hour, afterwards 2.5 Kn; otherwise 10 Kn
per hour. (updated Sep 2016)

Airport facilities 10.2.3 By train

Restaurant, cafe, bars 1 Zagreb Glavni kolodvor (Main railway station)

(close to the main bus terminal). There are direct
Post services to major European cities such as Vienna
(6 hours), Budapest (6.5 hours, one way approx.
Bank, ATMs
9,000 HUF), Zurich, Munich, Salzburg, Ljubljana,
Limited Free Wi, or Paid access to the Internet (via Sarajevo (one-way ticket costs 59 BAM), Belgrade
terminal) as well as domestic services to all major towns (ex-
cept Dubrovnik). There is also an all-year-round
Numerous car renting outlets overnight train (with sleeping compartments) be-
Open 24 hours with 6 cots on the upper level outside tween Zagreb and Split (6 hours). (updated Sep
security if you need to sleep in the airport 2016)

As for the local destinations, then despite of introduction

Ground transportation to/from airport
of new tilting trains (up to 160 Km/h) connecting Za-
Pleso prijevoz (At the main bus station, airport greb with Split and other major cities in Croatia such as
buses leave from its northeast wing (toward the Varadin, Osijek and Poega. Trains are not everywhere
city)look for Croatia Airlines and Eurolines fast in the country. A journey to Split takes approx. 6
banners on the building.), +385 1 6331-982, e- hours while by bus it takes about 5 hours, while other
mail: plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr. Buses leave destinations along the coast practically are not reachable
the airport at 07:00 and every 30 minutes between by train.
08:00 and 20:00. Beyond these hours, there are Tourists coming from or going to neighbouring capitals
buses leaving for the bus station every time a Croa- should note the following EuroCity and InterCity as well
tia Airlines plane lands. In the opposite direction, as EuroNight railway lines:
32 CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

Those travelling from Italy can bypass the expensive mo-

Glavni kolodvor - Zagrebs Main Railway Station
EC Mimara": Frankfurt - Heidelberg - Stuttgart - ling more than 500 km (thats a return trip Zagreb-Zadar
Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb
EC Croatia": Vienna - Maribor - Zagreb, also by from Austrian border). You can nd a toll calculator here
EuroNight train
IC Kvarner": Budapest - Zagreb
torway toll in Slovenia by using the state route SS21
through Trieste, route E61 through Slovenia (in a bad
shape) and then A7 south to Rijeka, then Rijeka bypass,
then A6 east to Bosiljevo and A1 northeast to Zagreb.
Travellers heading from the south - Dalmatian coast
(Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik, ...) or from Montenegro - can
use the A1 highway, often combined with the state roads
D8 (by the coastline) and D1 (through the hinterland).
To use highways in Croatia you must pay a toll either in
Croatian national currency, the Kuna, or in Euro. One
may also pay by credit card- American Express, Diners,
MasterCard, Maestro or Visa cards. A third option is
to use the HAC Smart Card, which can reduce the cost
of travelling on the Croatian highways by 10-25%. It is
issued by Hrvatske Autoceste, but pays o only if travel-
or Zagreb-Serbia) or 250 km for a seasonal Smart Card
(a return trip Zagreb-Rijeka or two return trips to Zagreb
(click Calculator on the left navigation bar).

B Lisinski": Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb

10.3 Get around
B Zrichsee": Zurich - Innsbruck - Ljubljana - Za-
greb - Belgrade, also by EuroNight train ?'"`UNIQ--maplink-00000002-QINU`"'?
Map of Zagreb
EC Sava": Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb Zagreb has a well-developed and ecient public trans-
- Belgrade

The most of the services are operated by the Croatian

Railways. EuroNight trains can be booked via BB (Aus-
trian railways), DB (German railways) or SBB (Swiss
railways), or any other ticketing agency by phone.

10.2.4 By car
Almost all highways (motorway; autocesta in Croatian) in
Croatia start or end in Zagreb.
Travellers from Vienna can pass by Graz and Maribor and
then take the A2 highway upon entering Croatia. Mind
Zagreb Tram
the toll in Slovenia.
Travellers from Budapest can pass by Szkesfehrvr and
then use the Croatian A4 motorway. It also connects
Varadin. You will have to pay toll from shortly after
entering Croatia until shortly before reaching Zagreb.
Travellers heading from Serbia, Bulgaria, Macedonia,
Greece and Turkey can use the Croatian A3 motorway
to reach Zagreb.
Travellers heading from Ljubljana can use the A3.
Travellers coming from the west - Italy, as well as Rijeka
or Istria - can use the A7 motorway (near and bypass- Zagreb Bus
ing Rijeka), A6 motorway (Rijeka-Bosiljevo) and then
the A1 (Bosiljevo-Zagreb). port system that consists of trams, buses and trains.
10.3. GET AROUND 33

10.3.2 Bus
As for the buses, there are 138 day-time and 4 night lines.
ZET buses cover the area outside the city center, as well
as some neighboring towns that administratively belong to
Zagreb county. The buses use the same ticketing system
as the trams.

10.3.3 Funicular
A historic funicular railway (uspinjaa in Croatian), one
of the steepest and shortest in the world, operates between
the lower and upper towns with a travel time of just one
minute. Monthly, daily as well as single tram/bus ticket
can be used, otherwise there is a 4 kn ticket for a ride.
The funicular operates every 10 minutes, for a fee of 20
kn (in addition to regular tickets for everyone on board)
an immediate start can be purchased.

10.3.4 Trains
Trains operated by Croatian Railways (Hrvatske el-
jeznice) run every 15 minutes from east to west, connect-
Funicular Railway
ing the suburbs of Zagreb with the central railway station.
They are usually the quickest form of transport for those
coming from the areas of Zagreb far from the railway sta-
tion (Glavni kolodvor), or beyond the tram network.

10.3.5 Ticketing System

As of October 2013 (price list of 01-Oct-2013 in Croa-
tian), the price of a single one-zone ticket valid for 1.5
hours in one direction is 10 Kuna (~ 1.3 ), between mid-
night and 4 AM 15 Kuna. The dierent prices when buy-
ing at the driver or the kiosk or using the electronic ticket
(E-vrijednosna karta) have been removed. The ticket can
only be paid in the local currency Kuna. There is also
a day ticket (dnevna karta), valid until 4 AM of the next
Suburban Railway day, available at 30 Kuna (~ 4 ). For longer stays there
are tickets available for 3 (70 kn, ~ 9 ), 7 (150 kn, ~
20 ), 15 (200 kn, ~ 26 ) and 30 days (400 kn, ~ 52
). Buy a ticket and stamp it (insert it) in the little or-
10.3.1 Tram ange machine once you enter to validate. All single tick-
ets are transfer tickets valid in multiple vehicles travelling
in a single direction, so you won't need a new ticket when
The tram network (route map) operates 24 hours a day - switching trams and/or buses. Tari zone system exists,
from 4AM to 12AM there are 15 day-time lines (tram but only for townships and communities outside of Za-
lines 1-9, 11-15 and 17), and from 12AM to 4AM there greb city limits, all trams are in zone 1, as well as buses
are 4 night lines (tram lines 31-34) which cover most ofin the City of Zagreb. If you plan on taking more than
the day-time lines on a reduced (around 30-40 minute) two rides, buy a daily ticket.
frequency. Occasionally, buses replace trams on night
lines. Tram lines 1, 3, and 8 do not operate Saturdays,
Sundays and on public holidays. There are maps of the 10.3.6 Zagreb Card
tram lines on almost every stop, so if you know the near-
est stop to your destination you can simply gure out the Travelers who intend to visit many museums should con-
shortest trip while you're at the stop. sider buying the Zagreb Card . The card oers unlimited
34
travel on public transport in Zagreb, discounts at virtually
all of the citys museums, reduced prices at many restau-
rants, shops, and service providers and many other con-
cessions. As of September 2013, it costs 60 kuna (ap-
prox. 8) for 24 hours or 90 kuna (approx. 12) for 72
hours from the date and time entered on the card. Holders
of the card also receive a special booklet with a list of all
of the establishments and the discounts available to them.
The card can be purchased at any of Zagrebs Tourist In-
formation Centers, at the reception desks of the majority
of Zagrebs hotels, and ordered online (shipping cost is
added).
10.3.7 Bicycle
Since 01-Jun-2013 there are automated public bicycle
rental stations in Zagreb. It started with a three-month
pilot period during which approx. 50 bikes were avail-
able at 6 stations in the city centre: at the main train sta-
tion; in front of the Technical Museum at Savska Street;
at the intersection of Petrinjska and Amrueva; at the
intersection of Gundulieva and Varavska; in front of
the National University Library; at ubieva Street at the
green market on Kvaternik Square. The pilot was suc-
cessful, three more stations have already been added, one
of them in Novi Zagreb next to the Avenue Centar Mall
at the tram/bus stop museum of contemparary art (muzej
suvremene umjetnosti).
Payment can only be made with credit or debit cards
from VISA, MasterCard und Diners, in addition a mo-
bile phone (can also be foreign) is required. The regis-
tration at nextbike Zagreb is free, account activation re-
quires transferral of 79 kn (~ 11 ), which can be com-
pletely be used for bike rental. As of September 2013
there are two taris: In the standard tari, which does
not cost a monthly fee, per day the rst half hour is free
of charge, then each started hour costs 8 kn (~ 1,30 )
up to a maximum of 5 hours (including the free rst half
hour), a longer rental costs a at fee of 79 kn (~ 11 ) up
to a total of 24 hours. Warning: If a bike is not returned
to a station no longer than 24 hours after it was removed,
a late fee of 750 kn (~ 110 ) is charged! The nextbike
tari costs a monthly fee of 20 kn (~ 3 ), for that on
each rental process (even several times per day) the rst
30 minutes are free, the next up to 4.5 hours are only 4
kn (~ 0,60 ) each, and the at fee for rentals between 5
and 24 hours is reduced to 39 kn (~ 5,60 ). Even here
if the bike isn't returned after no more than 24 hours the
late fee of 750 kn (~ 110 ) is charged. A customer card
for easier rental (instead of using a smartphone app or
activation SMS) cost a one-time 20 kn (~3 ) fee.
10.3.8 Walks
Zagreb is a compact city and can be best explored by
walking. For the lower town (Donji Grad) the six squares
CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB
of Lenuci Horshoe and the Botanical Garden can be cov-
ered in about 2 - 3 hours of walking. This area is also
the home of Zagrebs major museums, galleries and the-
atres. The upper town (Gornji Grad) can also be covered
in about 2 - 3 hours of walking and includes the Cathe-
dral, St. Marks Church and Square and the Museum of
Broken Relationship.
10.3.9 Taxi
There are three taxi companies in Zagreb:
Radio Taxi Zagreb phone: 1777. Starting rates
as of January 2012 are xed at 9.90 kn (~1,25 ),
the price per kilometer is 4.90 kn/km (~0.7 /km),
waiting by the hour is 40 kn/h (~5,5 /h) and an ad-
ditional fee for luggage is charged (3 kn per piece
(0,4 per piece of luggage)). Taxis are readily
available at the Pleso international airport. Taxis are
obliged to have their taxi-meter on and you won't
fare well if you try to bargain.
Taxi Cammeo phone: 1212. Starting rate is HRK
15 (about 2) and includes 2 free kilometres. The
price for every next kilometre is 5 HRK (0,7). Due
to regulations, they are not able to pick up customers
at the Pleso Airport.
Ekotaxi phone: 060 77 77. Start 8.80 kn, 5 kn per
kilometre.
10.4 See
The city of Zagreb is mainly divided into two parts
Gornji grad (Upper Town) and Donji grad (Lower
Town). They are the cultural, religious, and commercial
hubs of Zagreb. These are where most of the restaurants,
bars and tourist sights are located. The Upper Town,
which is the medieval core of the city, developed as two
separate (and often warring) towns - Kaptol, the seat of
the Bishop (where the imposing Cathedral now stands),
and Gradec, the free town where tradesmen and artisans
lived (proclaimed by King Bela of Hungary in the 12th
century) merged in the 1770s to form the northern sec-
tion of historic Zagreb. Following this, the city expanded
south of todays Trg Bana Josipa Jelaia (Jelai Square)
to the railway station and the Sava River. Apart from
the two main parts the City of Zagreb extended both is
North - South and East - West. The Northern part con-
sists of the mountains and wilderness while the Southern
part extends beyond the River Sava and cosists of modern
Zagreb and is known as Novi Zagreb. So Zagreb can be
classied under four areas:
Upper Town (Gronji Grad)
10.4. SEE 35

St. Catherines Church

Zagreb Cathedral

Old Stone Gatel

mark of the city. The original cathedral dates back

to 1217 but the present structure dates back to 1906.
The chief architect was Hermann Boll. Free. (up-
dated Jul 2015)
1 St. Marks Square (Crkva sv. Marka) (St. Marks
Square). Located at the centre of St. Marks Square,
St. Marks Church is known for its colourful roof
tiles depicting the coat of arms of Croatia and Za-
St. Marks Church greb. St. Marks Church was constructed in 1499.
Free. (updated Jul 2015)
Lower Town (Donji Grad)
1 St. Catherines Church (Crkva sv. Katarine), St.
Northern Zagreb Catherines Square (Upper Town). Baroque style
church
New Zagreb (Novi Zagreb)
1 Old Town Gate, at the top of Radieva street (Up-
per Town). now a shrine to virgin Mary - the Ka-
10.4.1 Gornji Grad (Upper Town) menita vrata where you can light a candle and, as
the locals believe, your wish will be granted. Please
Churches and Religious Structures: be silent, even if just passing through the Gate. The
portrait of Mary is said to be sacred, because it is
1 Zagreb Cathedral (Kaptol). The Zagreb Cathe- the only thing that survived the large re. Near the
dral with its twin spires is the most well known land- Old Town Gate is the sculpture of St. George having
36 CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

Pavilion at Botanical Garden

Museum of Broken Relationship

Mimara Museum

Klovievi Dvori Galleryl

Archaeological Museum

Parks:

King Tomislavs Statue at King Tomislavs Squarel

slain the dragon. The other statue, him ghting the
dragon, is located on the Marshal Titos Square near
the Croatian National Theatre (roughly 1 km away).
1 Ribnjak Park (Next to Zagreb Cathedral, Kap-
tol). the Ribnjak is an English-style park complete
with exotic plants, sculptures, and a childrens play-
ground. The park was originally the site of Bishops
sh pond.
10.4. SEE
Art Pavilion
Grounded Sun
Croatian National Theatre
Entrance to Mirogoj cemetery
Museum of Contemporary Art
Museums: Most museums and historical sights close at
1PM on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday.
1 Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej
prekinutih veza), Sv. irila i Metoda 2,
+38514851021, e-mail: info@brokenships.com.
every day from 9AM to 9PM (from October till
May), during summer time from 9AM to 10:30PM
(from June till September). What remains after a
break-up? Museums permanent display is an op-
portunity to experience a unique emotional journey
through dozens of love leftovers collected from all
around the world. Museum is also the winner of
Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innova-
37
tive museum in Europe. Admission fee: 25kn.
1 Klovievi Dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovievi
Dvori), Jezuitski trg 4 (Upper town, close to funicu-
lar (uspinjaa) and stone gate (kamenita vrata). Bus
line 150 (except Sunday) from Trg bana Josipa Je-
laia, exit Kamenita vrata or Markov try; back to
Trg bana Josipa Jelaia enter at Katarinin trg.),
+385-1-485-1926. Tue-Fri 11:00-19:00, Mon
and holidays closed. This gallery in the old Je-
suit monastery with changing exhibitions introduces
Croatian and foreign cultural and artistic heritage
across all eras. In most exhibitions, photography
without ash is permitted. around 30 Kuna, varies
by exhibition. (updated Apr 2015)
38
Ariel View of Jarun Lake
Museums: Most museums and historical sights close at
1PM on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday.
Bundek Lake
10.4.2 Donji Grad (Lower Town)
Parks: Other city parks are connected in the Lenuci
Horseshoe, an unnished project of combining small
green squares and parks at the core of the center of the
town.
1 Strossmayer Square (Strossmayerov trg). Named
after Josip Juraj Strossmayer, politician and Roman
Catholic Bishop, the Strossmayer Square occupies
the central position of the eastern wing of the Lenuci
Horseshoe. (updated Jan 2017)
1 Zrinjevac Square (just south - east of the main
square). the park of the Academy (connecting the
Zrinjevac and Tomislav parks).
1 King Tomislav Square (Trg kralja Tomislava)
(south of Zrinjevac, just outside the main Train Sta-
tion). King Tomislav Square is the square over-
looking the main railway station (Glavni Kolodvor)
of Zagreb. Decorated with oor beds and foun-
tains and lined with trees it is dominated by a horse
mounted statue of King Tomislav. (updated Jan
2017)
1 Botanical Gardens (Botaniki vrt) (south of the
K. Tomislav Square, near the Hotel Esplanade),
CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB
+385 1-4844-002. (updated Jan 2017)
1 Maurani Square. The central square of the
western wing of Lenuci Horseshoe. It is named after
Croatian poet Ivan Maurani
1 Maruli Square. Maruli Square is the South
Western square of Lenuci Horseshoe. It houses the
Croatia State Archive. It also has a statue of Marko
Maruli.
1 Square of Maral Tito (Trg marala Tita). One
of the largest and greenest squares of Zagreb. It
is located on the North Western corner of Lenuci
Horseshoe. It has the Croatian National Theatre in
its centre.
1 Muzej Mimara (Mimara Museum), Trg
Franklina Delanoa Roosevelta 5, e-mail:
mimara@mimara.hr. Tue-Wed,Fri-Sat 10AM-
5PM; Thu 10AM-7PM; Sun 10AM-2PM. Houses
some 3,700 works of art donated by Ante Topi
Mimara. The collection comprises more than 1,500
exhibits dating from the prehistoric period up to the
20th century. Some of the most famous exhibits
include works by Lorenzetti, Raaello, Giorgione,
Veronese, Caravaggio, Canaletto, 60 paintings
by the Dutch masters Rembrandt, Van Goyen,
Ruisdael, 50 works by the Flemish masters Van der
Weyden, Bosch, Rubens, Van Dyck, more than 30
by the Spanish masters Velasquez, Murillo, Goya,
some 20 paintings by the German masters Holbein,
Liebermann, Leibl, some 30 paintings by the
English painters Gainsborough, Turner, Bonington
and more than 120 paintings by the French masters
Georges de la Tour, Boucher, Chardin, Delacroix,
Corot, Manet, Renoir, Degas.
1 Archaeological Museum (Arheoloki Muzej), Trg
Nikole ubia Zrinskog 19, +385 1-4873-101.
Possesses over 400,000 objects, not all of them be-
ing exhibited. The holdings include evidence of
Croatian presence in this area as well as rare samples
which have made the museum known to the whole
world. The most famous are the Egyptian collec-
tion, the Zagreb mummy and bandages with the old-
est Etruscan inscription in the world (Liber Linteus
Zagrabiensis), as well as the numismatic collection.
A part of the museum is set aside for the collection
of stone monuments dating back predominantly to
the Roman period. (updated Jan 2017)
1 Art Pavilion in Zagreb (Umjetniki paviljon u
zagrebu), Trg Kralja Tomislava 22 (tram stations
10.4. SEE 39

Glavni kolodvor (lines 2, 4, 6, 9, 13) or Zrinjevac
(lines 6, 13)), +385 1-487-6487, +385 1-484-
1070, e-mail: info@umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Tue-
Thu 11:00-20:00, Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-
20:00, Mon + holidays closed, closed between exhi-
bitions. Designed by the Hungarian architects Korb
and Giergl for the Millennium Exhibition 1896 in
Budepest, its iron frame was transported to Zagreb
after the exhibition, where the permanent pavillion
was built by the famous Viennese designers of the-
atres in Central Europe Hellmer and Fellmer. It is
a neo-classical exhibition complex and one of the
landmarks of the city center. The exhibitions are 10.4.3 Northern Zagreb
also held in the impressive Metrovi pavilion on
Trg rtava faizma. Current exhibition: Auguste 1 Maksimir Park & Zagreb Zoo (tram #7 if you
Rodin - Rodin in Metrovi's Zagreb (until 20-Sep-
2015), showing 55 large and small sculptures, 2
paintings and 10 scetches by Rodin and 10 early
photographs of Rodins work by then-famous pho-
tographers. Photography is not permitted by order
of the Rodin museum in Paris despite the fact that
Rodins work is now in the public domain. adults
40 Kn, reduced 30 Kn, family (2 adults, 2 children)
130 Kn. (updated May 2015)
model of the Sun, with 9 planets of the solar sys-
tem in their scaled size compared to this Sun. Mer-
cury is in Margaretska street, a couple of hundred
meters to the west, turn right after reaching Cvjetni
trg, you should see it on the wall to the right after
passing a dozen or so meters. Venus is on the pole
of the building with Hypo bank on the Ban Jelai
Square. Earth is in Varavska street to the left. For
other models, click the link of the sculpture above.
are coming from the Central Bus Station or trams #11
and #12 from the main square or the #4 of your com-
ing from the railway station). The biggest park in Za-
greb. Great place to chill out, drink coee, eat lunch
(picnic or at the parks restaurant) or take nice long
walks through the forest or by the small lakes. Good
for joggers, cyclists, also child and dog friendly. Of-
fers lake rowing. The 85-year old zoo has red pan-
das.

1 Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko Narodno

Kazalite), Trg Kralja Tomislava 22 (Located at the
centre of Marshal Tito Square), +385-1-4888 418,
e-mail: infocentar@hnk.hr. Croatian National The-
atre, Zagreb is located at the centre of Marshal Tito
Square. It is built in 1895. There are also Croatian
National Theatres in Split, Rijeka, Osijek, Varadin
and Zadar.
1 Moderna Galerija (Modern Gallery), Hebran-
gova 1. Comprises all relevant ne artists of the 19th
and 20th centuries.
People and Art House Lauba (Kua za ljude i
umjetnost Lauba), Prilaz baruna Filipovia 23a.
Every day from 3PM to 11PM. Presents works from
the Filip Trade Collection, a large private collection
of modern and contemporary Croatian art and cur-
rent artistic production.
1 Technical Museum (Tehniki muzej), Savska
cesta 18. http://tehnicki-muzej.hr/hr/muzej/
vrijeme/. Has a lot of technical inventions, re
engines, a cabinet of Nikola Tesla, a planetarium
and an underground mine. 20kn (cca. US$4, 3).
Street Architecture:
1 The Grounded Sun (Prizemljeno Sunce), Bogov-
ieva Street 6 (Head south from the Ban Jelai
square to the Dubrovnik hotel, then turn right into the
Bogovieva street. You can't miss it.). Prizemljeno
sunce by Ivan Koari is a 1971 sculpture, a 2 me-
ter wide bronze sphere, which represents the scale
1 Mirogoj Cemetery, +385 1-4696-700.
Mirogoj is the central cemetery of Zagreb. It was
opened in 1876 north of the city center. The mor-
tuary, the impressive and picturesque arcades with
the church of Christ the King (architect H. Boll,
1883-1914) make it one of the most impressive
cemeteries in the world. Here stand the tombs of
notable personalities (including that of basketball
hero Drazen Petrovic) who are relevant to Croatian
history. To arrive from the central square, go to
the nearby Cathedral and take bus number 106
(Kaptol - Mirogoj - Krematorij). The ride takes
approximately 10 minutes. Note: the Croatian Day
of the Dead is on November 1st. You may nd
the sight of hundreds of thousands of candles after
nightfall impressive and worth seeing, but you may
take note that on that day and a few preceding and
following days the cemetery will be very busy and
quite dierent from usual peaceful appearance; on
those days buses to the cemetery are very frequent
but crowded. (updated Jun 2015)
1 Medvednica and Medvedgrad. The imposing
mountain overlooking Zagreb (Medvednica) con-
tains a preserved fortress (Medvedgrad) and fasci-
nating views of the city. Being respectful in the
fort is a good idea, since it is the site of the Altar
of the Homeland memorial, dedicated to Croatian
soldiers who died in the Homeland war. There are
several historical festivals during the year, including
knights tournaments. (updated Jun 2015) (updated
Jul 2015)
40
10.4.4 Novi Zagreb
Lakes Zagreb has two very popular lakes:
1 Jarun (at the south part of the city. Tram #5
or #17). Jarun Lake is a recreational area based
around a large lake where locals go to relax, ex-
ercise - and party! The centerpiece of the area is
the actual lake itself, which is used for windsurf-
ing and has a large rowing section with spectator
stands. There are also shingle beaches surrounding
the water, alongside which are several bars that get
very busy during the weekends but are also nice for
a sunny lunchtime snack. All the bars there are con-
sidered 'fancy' places and usually play commercial
music.
1 Bundek. hosts horticultural shows, rework
festivals, workshops, concerts and music festivals
(mostly during the summer).
Museums:
1 Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Su-
vremene Umjetnosti), Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (South
of Bundek Lake), +385 1-6052-700, +385 1-
6052-701, +385 1-6052-798, e-mail: msu@msu.hr.
Follows and presents contemporary trends in ne
arts. 30 kuna. (updated Jan 2017)
1 Croatian Museum of Nave Art (Hrvatski Muzej
Naivne Umjetnosti), Sv. irila i Metoda 3. Houses
more than one thousand works belonging to Croat-
ian nave art.
10.5 Do
Strossmayerovo etalite. (eng. Strossmayers
walkway) In the summer, it is an outdoor scene for
painters, musicians and other artists oering food,
drinks, performances and concerts. Popular meet-
ing place for all ages, with a great view of the Lower
Town.
Snow Queen Trophy. Ladies Night Slalom : Za-
greb is the only capital in the world that hosts a Ski
World Cup race. The slalom event - known as the
Snow Queen Trophy (Snjena kraljica) - usually
takes place in January. It is the most expensive race
on the womens world cup tour and an exception-
ally popular sporting event in Croatia that attracts a
crowd of around 25 thousand people. As of 2007
best skiers in mens competition are also expected
to compete on Mount Sljeme that overlooks the city.
If you fail to secure your ticket, you can watch the
whole event on a giant screen in the Ban Jelai
Square.
CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB
10.5.1 Cinemas
Most English-language movies are subtitled, not
dubbed; only childrens movies are dubbed.
A ticket will cost you 20-33 HRK (2,7-4,4)
About 30 HRK is the combined price of a medium
popcorn and cola.
CineStar Zagreb, Branimirova 29, +385 1 46-
86-600 (ticket reservation). A multiplex cinema (13
screens) in the vicinity of the Sheraton Hotel. The
website is in Croatian, but can be understood using
a Croatian-English online dictionary.
CineStar Novi Zagreb, Avenue Mall, Avenija
Dubrovnik 16. A multiplex cinema (9 screens) in
the vicinity of the Museum of Contemporary Art.
CineStar Arena IMAX (the only IMAX movie
theatre in Croatia), Lanite 32 (west from Arena Za-
greb). Located in a large mall.
Cineplexx Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 11, +385 1
56-33-888. A multiplex cinema (5 screens) within
the Kaptol Shopping Center situated to the north of
the Cathedral.
Cineplexx City Center one East, Slavonska
Avenija 11D, +385 1 563-2400. A multiplex cin-
ema (7 screens) located on the east side of Zagreb.
Kino Europa, Varavska 3. - this cinema is located
in the city center.
Kino Croatia, Katanieva 3; +385 1 48-13-711.
Kino Jadran, Ilica 42; 062-100-100 (within Croa-
tia).
Kino Central, Petrinjska 4; 062-100-100 (within
Croatia).
Kino Tukanac. Showing much more than just
European lmography, alternative and older lms,
sometimes for free, usually costs about 10 HRK
(1.50)
10.6 Learn
The University of Zagreb combined with the Croatian
Heritage Foundation Matica Hrvatska oers compre-
hensive Croatian language courses for foreigners. The
courses occur in the fall and spring semesters along with
an intensive one month course in July. All courses cost
around 600. More information can be found by visiting
the Universitys website.
10.9. EAT 41

Many universities in Croatia accept a small group as in- 10.8.2 Foreign books
ternational students every year, who stay in dorms and
learn Croatian. Algoritam, Gajeva 1.
FER (Fakultet elektrotehnike i raunarstva, trans. Faculty
of Electrical Engineering and Computing) is a globally- Prol Megastore, Bogovieva 7.
appreciated school of computer related learning. It is part
of the University of Zagreb and accepts around ten inter-
national students a year. 10.9 Eat
Tobacco smoking is banned in all enclosed public spaces,
including restaurants and some (but not all) bars and
10.7 Work cafes. The smaller bars / cafes could opt (and some did)
to allow smoking.
For creative types, Croatia is occupied by some street per-
formers and many stands selling jewelery or other hand-
crafted products, so the populace has an open mind to 10.9.1 Budget
casually buying things from an interesting stand near the
main square or dropping a few coins into a musicians There are many take out, pizza-cut, sandwich bars and
case. fast foods around the city. Most are located in the
city center (main square - Ban Jelai and surrounding
blocks). There are also food chains such as the Mc-
Donalds, Daily Fresh, Mlinar, Pan Pek, and the
10.8 Buy preferred Dubravica. Sandwich prices around the city
varies from 10 to 20 kuna. You can also nd many kebabs
There are many small grocery stores around Croatia such and pancake-to-go places.
as Konzum and Diona. There you can buy most necessary
foods, hygiene products and items like cigarettes and al- American Doughnut, Teslina St. A sandwich bar
cohol. If you have a more specic need (like appliances, that also serves salads and deserts.
cutlery) or wish to go bulk shopping then try one of the
larger Konzums, Kauand or Mercator. Bread in Croatia
Baschiera 2, Selska cesta 215 (On the end of Savska
is sold unsliced and is generally inedible after the sec-
street and beginning of Horvaanski zavoj), +385
ond day of life, so if you don't eat bread much then ask
1 3698-999. Pizza.
for half a loaf pola. Most brands that you likely know
from home, like Nutella or M&Ms, can be found in the
larger stores but are rather expensive. Trying a domestic Bonita, Flower Square. Popular sandwich bar that
alternative or knock-o is not a bad idea. also serves pancakes and hot wine in the winter.

Zagreb also has designated areas, the singular being a

Colonia, Boidara Magovca 21 (In New Zagreb, in
platz, where you can buy and barter for clothes and
Mamutica), +385 1 6698-153. Pizza.
shoes as well as perfume, chocolate and souvenirs. Il-
legally imported cigarettes are also often sold for cheap
there (because of high importation taxes). Dvojka, Nova Ves 2 (On Kaptol close to Centar Kap-
tol), +385 1 4817-462, +385 1 4666-111. Pizza.

10.8.1 Souvenirs Gigi, Petrovaradinska 39, +385 1 3885-092. Be

sure to visit this pizzeria if you're going to the Jarun
Turistiki Informativni Centar, Trg bana Josipa lake.
Jelaia 11 (in the central squar). Sells everything
ranging from postcards and books to pottery and Karijola, Kranjevieva 7, +385 1 3667-044.
crystal Pizza.

Koykan World Food, Gajeva 8 (Go south from Trg

GEA Gallery, Radieva Street 35. a wide range of
souvenirs that are handmade in Croatia and are very
reasonably priced. Very knowledgeable sta.
Millennium, Radiceva 9 (o Jelacic square). Pot-
tery, crystal, costume jewelery, and other gifts.
Bana Josipa Jelaia square past the Dubrovnik hotel
until you reach Gajeva street (Ulica Ljudevita Gaja
Street=Gajeva Street)), +385 1 4827-223. Italian
piadinas, Japanese teriyaki sticks, oriental wraps,
Bubble tea from Taiwan and Japanese mochi cakes.
0-10USD.
42
Mamma Mia, Ilica 63, +385 1 4846-093. Pizza.
MOCA. Newly open at the main square serves great
and cheap fried, deep fried and baked potatoes with
a large variety of dips for takeout. 10 kuna.
Nocturno, Skalinska 4 (On Kaptol, between
Tkalieva street and Cathedral), +385 1
4813-394. Pizza.
Nova, Ilica 72/1. Vegetarian.
Oliva, Jarunska 5 (located at the Jarun near the
students hall Stjepan Radic at the Eastern part of
the volleyball center.), +385 1 3020 777, e-mail:
restoran.oliva@gmail.com. 11-24. Italian restau-
rant (pizza, pasta)
Pizza Cut Duck, Nikole Tesle 15. A pizza-slice
bar that also serves fresh tortillas with veggie and/or
meat lling.
Sandwich Bar Pingvin, Nikole Tesle 10 (on one of
the central streets, close to the Flower Square and Trg
Ban Jelcica), +385 1 48 11 446. Classic sandwich
bar with a wide menu and reasonably good mix of
languages. One of the most popular dishes is the
toplo/hladno (hot/cold), a grilled chicken and veg-
etables sandwich.
estica, Medulieva 6, +385 1 4846-248, +385 1
4846-562. Pizza.
Stara Sava, Savska cesta 208 (Close to rotor and
Mladost sports center), +385 1 3634-322. Ar-
guably the best pizzeria in Zagreb.
VegeHop, Vlaka 79. Closed Sunday. Vegetarian.
irafa, Maksimirska cesta 64. Cheap Mexican food
and drinks. Nice summer terrace.
10.9.2 Mid-range
1 Royal India, Kaptol, 27 (Located in Kaptol, 2
minutes walk from the Zagreb Cathedral), +385 1
4680 965, e-mail: royalindiazg@gmail.com. Serves
authentic Indian Dishes. (updated Jul 2015)
Asia, A. enoe 1, +385 1 48 41 218. 12AM-
12PM. Chinese restaurant
Caramba, Frankopanska 6. Mexican food.
CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB
Ivica i Marica, Tkalieva 70, +385 1 481 7321,
+385 1 482 8999. TuSu 12PM-11PM. Wonder-
ful food made only from natural ingredients, many
sourced locally. Oers traditional, lite, diabetic,
and organic cakes, ice creams and such.
Mali Medo, Tkalieva 36, +385 1 4929 613.
Another traditional Croatian restaurant. Lively at-
mosphere, youthful clientele, and all very aord-
able. Excellent evapii and gula, not to mention
superb beer. Mains: 2560 kuna.
Manzoku, Gajeva St. An excellent and so far only
Japanese take-out in Zagreb. Tasty but rather ex-
pensive.
Mex Cantina, Savska cesta 154, +385 1 6192-
156. Mexican food. Good service, great food, on
Mondays they oer live music by the best Croatian
mariachi band, Los Caballeros starting at 9PM.
1 Nishta Restaurant, Masarykova ul. 11, 10000,
Zagreb (Located in between Marshal Tito Square and
Octagon), +385 1 8897 444. 100% Vegetarian
food
Pivnica Medvedgrad, Samoborska cesta 217,
Boidara Adije 16, Tkalieva 36. Great food
and beer for reasonable prices. Make sure to try
'varkua' (4 HRK). 500ml beer: 12 HRK.
Restaurant Kvatric, Maksimirska 9, +385 1
2330 070. Croatian restaurant with very nice food
for a reasonable price. Has a nice terrance in the
back garden. Close to tramstop 'Kvaternikov Trg'.
10.9.3 Splurge
Boban, Gajeva 9. Italian food.
Feniks, Jurisiceva 19 (5 minutes walk from the Za-
grebs main square), +385 1-481 44 11. Mexican
food.
1 Le Bistro, Mihanovieva 1, +385 1 45 66 666.
Daily 8:30-23:00. A French restaurant within the
Regent Esplanade Hotel.
Panino, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), +385 1 46
69 013. Nice little restaurant with great service and
wonderful food. If you are into French and Istrian
style food you will probably love this place.
Restaurant Suhina, Dr. F. Tumana 1, Oreje
(near the Podsused bridge), +385 44 1 33 71 562.
An old family-run restaurant on the old Samobor
road that oers a variety of roasted food.
10.10. DRINK
Sreko, Vinogradska 135, +385 1 373 10 07. M- 10.10.1 Bars and pubs
Sa 12AM - 11PM, Su 12AM-6PM. A very romantic
little restaurant.
Takenoko, Nova Ves 11, in Kaptol Centar Shop-
ping Center (Centar Kaptol), +385 1 48 60 530.
Zagreb may not be synonymous with sushi restau-
rants, but this is one is superb. It is not cheap, but
sushi they make is incredible.
Velika Klet Obitelji Buni, 20km from central
Zagreb, +385 1 2781-132. A very popular place
that oers Croatian cuisine, live music on weekends,
a stable, sh pond and basketball courtyard.
10.9.4 Desserts
100% juice bar, Tkalieva 5 (in the center of Za-
greb. Down some stairs - look for the small sign).
Pricey but a good place to get a healthy snack or
fruit smoothie.
SladoMazo, Zelinska 7. A pancake restaurant with
a wide range of crazy both sweet and salty lling
ideas.
The Cookie Factory, Tkalieva 21 (Head north of
the large clock on the Ban Jelai square towards the
Dolac market, and turn left before the stairs. Head
into the Tkalieva street and when you see the statue
of Marija Juri Zagorka the Cookie Factory should be
to your left. You'll notice it by the decorated outside
with funny drawings.), +38599 4949400. 9AM
- 10PM. Homebaked American Sweets. Cookies,
brownies and bars, krispy treats, muns, cupcakes,
banana breads, scones, cobblers, biscotti, top notch
coee, smoothies, cakes and pies.
Torte i To, Nova Ves 11, second oor of the Kaptol
Centar. A great little cae oering the best cheese
cake in town, and other great cakes
Vincek, Ilica. Closed on Sundays.. The local, best
known ice cream and cake palace in town center.
Oers diet foods.
Konoba Didov San, Mletaka 11, Upper Town,
+385 14851154. The best atmosphere restaurant in
Zagreb with excellent food, unique menu, large por-
tions and great location!!
10.10 Drink
43
Many bars are located around Flover square (Cv-
jetni trg), the main square (Trg Bana Josipa Jelaia),
Preradovieva, Tkalieva, Radieva, Bogovieva, and
Gajeva streets.
Booksa, Martieva 14d. A cafe/bookshop/library
famous with local young intelectuals.
Harlekin, Tkalieva 50, +385 99 3864 720.
9AM- 02 a.m.. Cozy atmosphere, excellent English,
free Wi-Fi, delicious drinks, very reasonable prices,
great coee, DJ or live music on weekends.
Cica, Tkalieva. Bar mostly known for its great
and varied choice of the local schnappses (rakija).
Interesting always changing, gallery-like interior.
The whole bar is small but oers outdoor seating.
Very popular and crowded, brimming with young
business and student clientele.
Funk club, Tkalieva 52, +385 98 672 338.
11AM- 02 a.m.. Cafe / bar that oers various mu-
sic night programmes in the basement (mostly al-
ternative, dj-s, world music) and spacial backpacker
evenings. Very good atmosphere, lots of character,
cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent elec-
tronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house, dub-
step.
Golf, Preradovieva. Until 2AM. Popular golf-
themed cafe/bar.
KIC, Preradovieva. Oers free internet and cheap
international call center. Hosts a cinema with vari-
ous alternative movies.
Kino Gri, Juriieva. Newly re-decorated old cin-
ema. Hosts movies, festivals, music nights and Za-
grebs hipster crowd.
Krivi Put (Wrong Way), Savska 14.
Mali Medo, Tkalieva. Oers a good choice of
local beer and food. Indoors smoking prohibited.
Has a terrace facing Tkalieva street.
Melin, Tkalieva. A cheap bar brimming with
young people and students. Oers indoors, a roofed
terraced leveled seating and an open terrace facing
Tkalieva street. Known for crowds of people of-
ten drinking even around the bar, in the park and
playground in front of it.
Oliver Twist, Tkalieva. A choice of good Irish
beer with a great atmosphere. Big summer terrace
in front.
44
Cafe de Paris
Pivnica Medvedgrad.
Bar Plan B, Tkalieva 84, +385 14811285.
A cafe/wine bar/sports bar. Attracts a mix of lo-
cals and tourists. You can expect music from every
genre, and decade, from Jazz to Alternative/Indie.
Portal, Tkalieva. Next to Melin, oers same ser-
vice, the Portal and Melin crowds often mix at the
outdoors terraces.
Purgeraj, Park Ribnjak. A bar/club located in the
Ribnjak park in the city center. Oers mostly rock,
blues and alternative music. Daily happy hour when
you get two drinks for the price of one. Sometimes
hosts concerts. Popular with student crowd esp on
Thursdays when it hosts the newly popular take me
out evening oering a mix of indie and alternative
music. In the summer, outside Purgeraj, in the Rib-
njak park there are live concerts and various work-
shops oering summer fun under the name 'Park In
Zagreb'.
Tolkiens House, Opatovina. A small fantasy
cafe/bar for Tolkien lovers. Oers a variety of
beers, cider and hot drinks.
10.10.2 Clubs
Aquarius, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb (Jarun Lake).
Saturday night is drum'n'bass & dancehall music, Hostels
Friday is hip-hop/r'n'b night. Good concerts.
1 All 4 seasons Hostel, Gundulieva 50, e-mail:
BP Club, Nikole Tesle 7, +385-1 481 44 44. all4seasonszg@gmail.com. All 4 seasons is lovely,
Open daily from 10PM to 2AM. Jazz and blues
lovers should check it out.
Funk club, Tkalieva 52, +385 98 672 338. main city square. Dorm bed: 15 (115 kuna).
11AM-2AM. Very good atmosphere, lots of char-
acter, cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent
electronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house,
dubstep!
Jabuka, Jabukovac 28, +385 1-48 34 397. Cult
club for alternative, punk music. Cheap drinks
opened on weekends, often concerts of alternative
bands. Mostly visited on weekends, especially Fri-
days. Admission fee: 25 Kn.
KSET, Unska 3. A popular student club. Of-
fers various indie and alternative programmes ev-
ery night of the week. Indoors smoking prohib-
ited. Serves only beer and non alcoholic drinks. En-
trance prices from 10kn (students) to 45/60kn for
concerts..
CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB
Medika, Pierottijeva 11. A local alternative
club/legalized squat usually loaded with people dur-
ing weekends, playing various music genres until the
early morning. Best Croatian beers for 10 HRK.
Movara, Prisavlje. A local alternative club (rock,
punk, metal, indie)with various concerts and theme
nights/programmes. Sometimes hosts festivals,
young indie talent concerts, movie nights, exhibi-
tions etc.
SAX! - Klub hrvatskih glazbenika, Palmotieva
22/2, +385-1 48 72 836. A great place to enjoy
live music of a wide array of styles including blues,
jazz, rock and pop.
Sirup, Donje Svetice 40. Interesting interior and at-
mosphere. Good electronic music. A bit expensive
entrance fees, but worth seeing.
The Best, Jarunska 5 (out near the Jarun Lake com-
plex), +385 1 3011 943. Largest club in Zagreb.
Mainly dance style music.
The Jazz Club. Open daily. Jazz, blues, and funk
bands, often from other countries.
10.11 Sleep
10.11.1 Budget
unusual and pretty much artistic apartment-hostel
located just 10 minutes walking distance from the
strict center of Zagreb and the Ban Josip Jelai
Buzz Hostel. Furnished with modern, ikea furni-
ture. Also a location in Split. Dorm bed: 120 kuna.
1 Chillout Hostel Zagreb, Fra Andrije
Kaia Mioia 3b, +38514849605, e-mail:
info@chillout-hostel-zagreb.com. Check-in: 2PM,
check-out: 11AM. A brand new hostel in the city
centre, free linen, free towels, free wi, 0-24h bar
and reception Dorm bed: 97-127 kuna.
Dizzy Daisy Hostel Zagreb. Dorm bed: 100-150
kuna.
1 Fulir Hostel Zagreb. 2 rooms, including a 12-
bed dorm. Great place to meet people, but can be a
wait to use the bathroom.
10.11. SLEEP
Funk Lounge, Ivana Rendia 28b (From main train 10.11.2 Mid-range
station: Take a tram number 4 (direction Dubec),
and get o on the 7th station (Masiceva). Con-
tinue along Maksimirska street until you see 'Dublin
Pub' across the street on your left side, cross the
street and go behind 'Dublin' on the right side in
15 story building. Just by Mlinar bakery and hair
stylist is the entrance.), +385 1 555 2707, e-mail:
booking@funklounge.hr. Check-in: from 1PM,
check-out: until 11AM. dorm from: 13, private
from: 20.
1 Hobo Bear Hostel, Meduliceva 4. Check-in:
1400, check-out: 1100. A cozy hostel very near the
town center. There is a basement hang out lounge
with a TV, including cable and many DVDs, as well
as free (fast) internet and computers. The sta is
amazingly helpful and speak perfect English, the
beds are comfortable and come with free linens and
blankets, and there is also a well stocked kitchen fa- 1 Panorama Hotel Zagreb, Trg Kresimira osia
cility. Dorm bed: 105 kuna.
Hostel Carpe Diem, Milana Suaya 3. Dorm bed:
80 kuna.
Hostel Lika, Pamanska 17. Small and cozy hostel
a bit out of the city center. Dorm bed: 100 kuna.
Hostel Mali Mrak Zagreb, Dubicka 8. Dorm bed:
100 kuna.
Nokturno Hostel, Skalinska 2a. Free internet ac-
cess, free linens and towels. Dorm bed: 130 kuna;
Single: 200 kuna.
Logistics Youth Centre, Jakueveka 87, +385
1 6626 035. Logistic youth center, also works as
a regional information center. From the host, you
can get complete information about everything that
interests you. The space has 10 rooms, lobby with
replace, dining room, kitchen and a cinema hall,
where you can stream movies from your laptop. The
most interesting part is the terrace with space for
tents and 30 seats. Located further from downtown,
but the center has its own bus which runs as needed.
Parking for approximately 30 vehicles.
Old Town Zagreb Hostel, Dordiceva 24 (Ulica
Ignjata Dordica). Dorm bed: 100 kuna.
Palmers Lodge Zagreb, Branimirova 25 (300m
from the main train station, 700m from the main bus
station.). Dorm bed: 15 (115 kuna).
Ravnice Youth Hostel, I. Ravnice 38d.
45
1 Hotel Jgerhorn, Ilica 14, +385 1 48-33-877.
3-star hotel Founded in 1827, Hotel Jgerhorn is the
citys oldest standing hotel.
1 Arcotel Allegra, Branimirova 29 (300 meters
from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor)),
+385 1 46-96-000. 4-star hotel which is Zagrebs
rst lifestyle hotel. All rooms are spacious and air-
conditioned and feature mini bar, safe, internet con-
nection, bigscreen TV and DVD player. A very cool
touch are the free apples supplied in your room in a
very funky holder!
Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria, Petrinjska
71 (not far from the central square of Ban Jelai),
+385 1 48-08-900. 3-star hotel
9 (in the business district of Zagreb some 2.5 kilo-
meters away from the central railway station (Glavni
kolodvor)). 4-star hotel.
Hotel Aristos, Cebini 33, Buzin (in the vicinity of
the Zagreb airport at the southern gates of Zagreb, in
the Buzin commercial center), +385 1 66-95-900.
4-star hotel.
Hotel As, Zelengaj 2A (2.5 km north-west of the
railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 46-09-
111. 4-star hotel.
1 Hotel Central, Branimirova 3 (150 meters from
the railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 48-
41-122. 3-star hotel refurbished in 1996.
Hotel Dora, Trnjanska cesta 11 (behind the Lisinski
Music Hall (south of the main railway station - Glavni
kolodvor)), +385 1 63-11-900. 3 star hotel.
1 Hotel Dubrovnik, Gajeva 1 (overlooking Zagrebs
main square - Ban Jelai Square), +385 1 48-
63-500. 4-star hotel. Clean, centrally located, good
service. Some rooms are small.
1 Hotel Holiday (at the western entrance to Zagreb
not far from the Zagreb Fair), +385 1 34-96-621.
3-star hotel.
1 Hotel I, Remetineka cesta 106 (near the southern
entrance into Zagreb, south of the Sava and in the
vicinity of Zagreb Fair), +385 1 65-42-238. 3-
star hotel.
1 Hotel International, Miramarska 24 (several
hundred meters south of the central railway station),
+385 1 61-08-800. 3-star hotel.
46
1 Hotel Jadran, Vlaka 50 (in the city center some 10.11.3 Splurge
500 meters east of the Cathedral), +385 1 45-53-
777. 3-star hotel. There is a big shopping center
near-by - the Importanne Gallery.
Hotel Laguna, Kranjevieva 29 (near the Cibona
Business Tower), +385 1 30-47-000. 3-star hotel.
Hotel Phoenix, Sesvetska cesta 29 (in an eastern
suburb of Zagreb - Sesvete. It is located some 500 me-
ters from the motorway on the main road that leads
from Zagreb to Dugo Selo.), +385 1 20-06-333.
3-star hotel
Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb, Croatia
Palace Hotel
1 Palace Hotel, J.J. Strossmayer Square, +385 1
48-14-611. 4-star hotel. It was built in the Secession
style in 1891 and converted into a hotel in 1905. The
Arts Pavilion is 50 metres away.
CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB
1 Esplanade Zagreb, Mihanovieva 1 (just across
the central railway station), +385 1 45-66-666.
Built in 1925 for passengers of the famous Orient
Express train, which connected Paris and Istanbul.
If you can, check the Emerald Ballroom with its
soaring dome shaped roof. The hotel also includes
the Zinfandels Restaurant, Le Bistro and the Es-
planade 1925, the hotels lounge and cocktail bar.
1 Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, Kneza Borne 2, +385
1 45-53-535. Features air-conditioned rooms and
suites with classic furniture and marbled bathrooms.
It also includes King Tomislav Restaurant, Fontana
Restaurant, Piano Bar, Caf Imperial, 17 meeting
rooms and an 800-square-meter Grand Ballroom.
1 Westin Zagreb, Krnjavoga 1 (next to the Mi-
mara Museum and the Croatian National Theatre),
+385 1 48-92-000. The hotel was renovated in
2004. It features the legendary Heavenly Bed and
Heavenly Shower and probably oers the best view
in the city.
10.12 Connect
10.12.1 Internet
Art Internet Caee, Tkalieva 18, Art is an in-
ternet cafe bar, situated in the very center of Zagreb
(Tkalieva 18), just a few steps from the Ban Je-
lai square. In this modern and comfortable bar
you can enjoy a ne selection of beverages as well
as a large variety of computer services. Tel:+385 1
48 11 050. Open M-Su 08.00 - 23-00.
Aquarius net, Kralja Drislava 4.
Art Net Club, Preradovieva 25.
KIC, Preradovieva 5/1.
Klub SC,Savska 25.
Mama, Preradovieva 18, is one of the coolest and
cheapest cyber cafes in the city. They charge 10kn
(1.36E) per hour or you can pay by the minute.
Wireless connection, Skype, cool juices and cof-
fee are available. The place is run by Multimedia
institute , a nonprot organization working in the
elds of new media culture and digital technology,
so theres chance of meeting some of the local and
international cutting-edge artists or attending some
interesting program.
MMC Zagreb, Gajeva 17, MMC is an internet
point (Gaming & Surng & Call & Fax), situated
10.14. COPE 47

in the very center of Zagreb (Gajeva 17), just a few Also, avoid strip clubs at all costs. Zagreb is not famous
steps from the Ban Jelai square. Tel:+385 1 48 72 for such clubs and they are rare, however most of them
671. Open Mon-Sun 09.00 - 23-00. are often run by very shady characters, and often over-
charge their guests. Recent cases include foreigners that
Sublink, Teslina 12. were charged 2000 for a bottle of champagne. These
clubs overcharge their customers to the extreme, and their
Vip, Preradovi square 5. bouncers will not have any mercy if you tell them you are
unable to pay. You will soon nd yourself in a local hos-
Vip, Ibler square. pital. This not only applies to strip clubs in Zagreb, but
also all over Croatia.

10.13 Stay safe

As other cities in Croatia, Zagreb is very safe, but just
as anywhere else dark alleys, parks during the night, etc.
should generally be avoided, and common sense should
be followed. The chance of getting in trouble in Zagreb
is fairly low, especially in the center where most of the
hotels and restaurants are located, and for foreigners who
are in general respected and welcome. Visitors soon re-
alize that Zagreb is way safer than the vast majority of
other European capitals such as London, Paris, Vienna,
Rome, Budapest, etc.
Pickpocketing isn't a particularly common occurrence in
Zagreb, but you might be approached by beggars and sim-
ilar people on the street - ignore them and they will go
away.
Also, outbursts of homophobic behaviour have been
known to occur, so it is advisable for homosexual cou-
ples not to show aection when near large groups of bald
people or people that look like football hooligans. A les-
bian couple from UK was assaulted by an angry passenger
in a tram, and they suered minor injuries, and the per-
petrator was apprehended by the police. Watch out for
aggressive people like that one.
Park Ribnjak, located very close to the city centre, is safe
during daytime and worth visiting, especially for children.
However, it has recently become a night-time meeting 10.14.3 Embassies
place of alternative youngsters, and subculture violence
involving skinheads and similar violent young people
has occasionally occurred. Its best to steer clear of Rib-
njak after dark, which shouldn't be a problem because of
a lack of interesting content for most tourists anyway.
Further, if you are going out at night (especially on week-
ends) steer clear of any drunk and rowdy groups of young
people you might encounter in the street or night trams as
random beatings have been known to occur. It is not un-
common for such groups to start unprovoked attacks on
passersby, although they target mainly younger crowd and
teenagers. These are not common but they do happen oc-
casionally, and people have been killed by such attacks in
the past, so take precautions. It is advisable for men not
to wear overly pink clothes.
Avoid clubs which play what is known in Croatia as
Turbo-folk music. These clubs are often featured in the
local newspapers as violence erupts in them quite easily.
10.14 Cope
10.14.1 Reading and Speaking
Croatian children start learning a foreign language in pri-
mary school, and for the majority it is English, so younger
people can usually speak the language well enough, and
many older people know some. You may also try German
or Italian, as both are popular (for historical and cultural
reasons).
It is also advisable to learn a some basic Croatian words
and phrases - because Zagreb can be a vibrant, busy city, a
few basic molim (please), hvala (thanks) or oprostite (ex-
cuse me, pardon me, I'm sorry) will go a long way to avoid
being ignored by a busy local.
10.14.2 Visiting during summer
Summer time is traditionally time in Zagreb for mainte-
nance and road repairs. If you visit Zagreb at that time,
you should do some research on what streets are open and
what aren't and also be prepared to get stuck in trac
jams during rush hours.
Albania, Juriieva 2A, +385 1 481
0679, fax: +385 1 481 0682, e-mail:
embassy.zagreb@mfa.gov.al.
Australia, Centar Kaptol, 3rd Floor, +385
1 4891 200, fax: +385 1 4891 216, e-mail:
AustEmb.Zagreb@dfat.gov.au. Monday to Friday:
8:30 - 16:30, except for public holidays.
Austria, Radnika cesta 80, 9th Floor, +385 1-
488 1050, fax: +385 1-483 4461, e-mail: agram-
ob@bmeia.gv.at. Consulary department Mon-Fri
09:00 - 12:00.
Canada, Prilaz Gjure Deelia 4, +385 1
488 1200, fax: +385 1 488 1230, e-mail:
zagrb@international.gc.ca. Monday to Thursday:
10:00 - 12:00 and 13:00 - 15:00 Friday: 10:00 -
13:00.
48 CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

China, Mlinovi 132. Tues and Thurs: 09:00 - Sisak - a beautiful town at the intersection of 3 rivers
12:00. with long history. 50 km southeast of Zagreb, acces-
sible by fast train (about 30 min), and bus.
Finland, Miramarska 23, HR-10000 Zagreb,
+385 1 6312 080, fax: +385 1 6312 090, e-mail: Vrbovec - a town for all who would like to see the
sanomat.zag@formin.. Mo-Fr 9AM-11AM. typical way of Croatian life. 32 km northeast of Za-
greb, accessible by bus.
Germany, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, +385 1-
6300 100, +385 98-227 136 (Emergencies & also Karlovac - a stunning town at the intersection of 4
SMS), fax: +385 1-6155 536, from inside Germany rivers. 45 km southwest of Zagreb, accessible by
030/1817 67231. Mon-Fri 09:00 - 12:00 public ac- bus.
cess, oce hours Mon-Thu 07:45-17:00, Fri 07:45-
13:45.
Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Greece, Opatika 12, +385 1 4810444,
+385 989 228 848 (Emergencies), fax: +385 1
481 0419, e-mail: gremb.zgb@mfa.gr greece-
embassy@grembassy.hr, gremb.zgb@mfa.gr.
09:00 - 15:30.

Japan, Bokovieva 2, +385 1 4870 650, fax:

+385 1 4667 334. 08:30-12:00, 13:00-17:15.

Macedonia, Kralja Zvonimira 6/1, +385 1

457 2812, fax: +385 1 462 0369, e-mail:
zagreb@mfa.gov.mk.

Norway, Grand Centar Hektorovieva 2, +385

1 6273 800, fax: +385 1 62730 899, e-mail:
emb.zagreb@mfa.no. 08.30 16.00 Monday to Fri-
day (15. September- 14. May) and 08.30 15.00
(15. May - 14. September).

South Korea, Ksaverska cesta 111/A-B, +385-

(0)1-4821-282.

Switzerland, Bogovieva 3, +385

1-487 88 00, fax: +385 1-481 08
90, e-mail: vie.rkc@eda.admin.ch
zag.vertretung@eda.admin.ch,
vie.rkc@eda.admin.ch.

United Kingdom, Ivana Luia 4, +385 1 6009

100, fax: +385 1 6009 111. Mon-Thurs: 0830-
1700; Fri: 0830-1400.

United States, Ulica Thomasa Jeersona 2 (Buzin,

near the airport, bus lines 166, 229, 268 from Glavni
Kolodvor, stop Odra (the rst of the 3 Odra stops,
stop after Buzin)), +385 1-661-2200, +385 1-661-
2300 (Consular Services). 08:00 - 16:30.

10.15 Go next
Samobor - a picturesque medieval town with well
preserved old lore and long tourist tradition. 25 km
west of Zagreb, accessible by bus (~30 min distance
from Zagreb, ticket price ~20 HRK).
Chapter 11

Istria

Istria (Croatian: Istra) is the north-westernmost region Pula into an important administrative centre and build-
of Croatia. In a triangular shape, it is bordered in the ing villas, amphiteatres and temples. After the fall of the
north by Slovenia, east by the Kvarner region of Croatia Roman Empire, the inner land remained a feudal terri-
and on the south and west by the Adriatic Sea. tory occupied by Slavs, Frankish, Byzantines and nally
Austrian Habsburgs, while the coast fell under control
of the Republic of Venice in the 13th century. Inter-
11.1 Cities mittent combats were held between both powers until
the fall of Venice in 1797. Since that date, the Croat-
Buje ian population of Istria struggled for autonomy and were
severely repressed both by Austrians and Fascist Italy (af-
Motovun ter World War I), eventually ending with a revenge from
Yugoslav partisans after the World War II, forcing most
Pazin autochthonous ethnic Italians to leave. A small ethnic
Pore Italian community still lives in the coastal towns. Rel-
atively spared from the Yugoslav Wars, Istria is now a
Pula prosperous region. Latter years have seen a growing re-
gional sentiment and a reconciliation with its previously
Rovinj conictive Italian identity.
Umag The peninsula oers stark contrasts: the interior is very
unspoiled and mountainous with ancient walled cities
atop hills with surrounding fertile elds, whilst the coast
11.2 Other destinations has numerous beaches do not expect any sand in them,
though and stunning scenery of rocky walls plummet-
Beram ing into the sea. The Istrian coast is arguably the most
developed tourist destination in Croatia. Hordes of Ital-
Brijuni ian, German and French tourists enjoy package tourism
during the crowded high season.
Cape Kamenjak
Although Pula is the main town, according to population
Groznjan and culture, relatively rural Pazin is the administrative
centre of the peninsula.
Hum
Limski kanal
Vrsar
11.4 Talk
11.3 Understand
Croatian is the ocial and most common language, but in
these formerly Venetian lands Italian is nearly universally
Formerly part of the Venetian Empire, this region has understood. There is still an Italian ethnic community in
seen many empires such as Byzantine, Roman, Austro- many coastal towns. German is also very widely spoken.
Hungarian, and Yugoslavian (Communist). The cultural Most restaurants in the main town also have an English
legacy of Istria is thus very rich and diverse. speaker or two on sta. Some market sellers will initially
After defeating the Illyrian Histri tribe, the Romans set- address you in all four (Izvolite, Prego, Bitte, How can I
tled in the peninsula and left a large heritage, turning help you?").

49
50 CHAPTER 11. ISTRIA

11.5 Get in Brijuni (Brioni) Islands - private playground of Tito

including an international zoo, dinosaur footprints
Pula is the main transportation hub for Istria so most peo- and Roman and Byzantine ruins.
ple will arrive there if they are not driving. Some boat Hill-top villages of Groznjan and Motovun, popu-
lines arrive to Pore, too. lated by artist communities.

Magnicent frescoes of Our Lady of the Rocks

11.5.1 By bus chapel in Beram.

Buses run from Trieste in Italy, Zagreb and other major

cities to Pazin in the centre of Istria, and most to Pula in 11.6.1 Itineraries
the South.
Istria is a ne region to practise hiking and biking, as
much in the mountainous inland as in the coast.
11.5.2 By air The Southern end of Istria is arguably the best place for
biking. Ask for a bike map in Pula Tourist Oce, show-
Ryanair provides a connection London (Stansted) to Pula ing well-marked routes around the coast and in the Cape
three days a week, and Dublin Pula also. Scandjet con- Kamenjak.
nects Pula to Oslo, Copenhagen and Stockholm once a With diversity at the heart of Istria, youll delight in new
week (on Saturdays) during the summer. Eurowings also culinary experiences and reconnect with traditional a-
serves Pula. vors.

11.5.3 By train
11.7 Do
Trains run daily between Ljubljana in Slovenia and Pula,
and from Rijeka to Ljubljana. Unfortunately due to his- Visit Lovran, Istria, near Opatija, for the Days of
torical accident, the two train lines do not meet up despite Cherries Festival in June
some works having been commenced on a rail tunnel to Join the True Days festival in the Motovun/Buzet
link the two short distances. area in late September

Attend a music or folklore performance in the

11.5.4 By Boat unique atmosphere of the Pula Arena

Venezia Lines is a high speed ferry operator that oper-
ated its rst trip in May 2003. Operating in the North
Adriatic, Venezia Lines links the North Adriatics coasts
of Italy and Croatia. From May 2003 to October 2009,
Venezia Lines has carried more than 450.000 passengers
between Venice and the Northern Coast of Croatia. In
the North Adriatic Venezia Lines is currently utilising 2
vessels, San Frangisk and her sister vessel San Pawl, both
with a capacity of 310 passenger, They are currently de-
ployed on routes between Venice, Italy and the Croatian
ports of Mali Losinj, Porec, Pula, Rabac and Rovinj.
11.6 See
Roman structures in Pula, including the Arena and recognition.
Forum.
The old Venetian town of Rovinj.
St Euphrasius Basilica in Pore.
The many beaches along the coast.
Motovun Film Festival, Motovun (On the main
road between Buzet and Buje), +385 1 374 07 07.
Internationally-renowned lm festival in the hilltop
Northern town of Motovun.
Visit Groznjan and its jazz Festival
11.8 Eat
Istrian gastronomy is known by its huge diversity. Pasta,
gnocchi, risotto and polenta, as well as its high-quality
vegetables (which can be found, at a cheap price, in any
of the numerous open-air markets present in almost ev-
ery Istrian town), accompany main dishes, as an Italian
heritage. Especially, Istrian peppers have international
At the coast, fresh sh and seafood are a tradition.
Scampi is the favourite, together with squid and sole. In
the inland, air-cured ham (Prsut) and sausages are the
highlights.
But the gastronomic pearl is no doubt the trues. After
the beginning of the season, in late September, trues
11.8. EAT 51

can be found accompanying any dish and sauce. Espe- This version of the traditional dish jota, made from
cially recommended is pasta with trues. Also, olive oil sauerkraut and beans, diers from its Karst counterpart
with trues is a typical product of the region. in that it does not contain any potatoes. It is served with
Typical Istrian goodies white or yellow polenta, as a main course and in many
other ways.
Simple but tasty metra (minestrone), made from sea-
sonal vegetables, is still prepared nowadays. A character- Fritaja
istically Istrian minestrone is made from bobici (corn), This egg dish is a typical characteristic of Istrian cuisine.
fennel, barley, etc. All of these dishes are spiced with Fritaja species are very dierent. Selection and prepa-
pesto. It is the ingredients, and not just the our, that ration depends on the imagination, taste, and from what
makes Istrian dishes so thick. we have in the refrigerator. You can prepare fritaja with
Home-made pastas such as noodles, lasagne, macaroni, ham, bacon, asparagus, eggplant, mushrooms, trues,
bleki or posutice, and the very Istrian fusi, are used baby onions or other vegetables, or cheese.
in soups and side dishes. Fusi are oered as a starter or Piran salt
side dish and are prepared in various ways with sauces.
Piran salt, this precious product of the Seovelje Salina
Polenta and gnocchi have been prepared in Istrian homes Nature Park, is the result of restless nds, warm sun, and
for ages, but these dishes have their origins elsewhere.
the hardworking salt-pan workers. It is made manually,
Due to the plentiful sunlight and the vicinity of the sea, according to traditional methods dating back more than
vegetables, which are widely grown in Istria, have a very 700 years. In the past also Koper had soltfealds.
special taste and naturally, interesting local names. Vari- Khaki
ous vegetables, from verzot (Brussels sprouts) to ciko-
rija (radicchio), koroma-noi (fennel root), cuketi The homeland of khaki - golden apples is the East Asia.
(zucchini), mangold, melancani (eggplant), peas, and In Europe and the USA are khakis produced from the
kapus (cabbage), are used to prepare side dishes, with second half of the 19th century. In Europe it was brought
the obligatory olive oil and plenty of garlic. about in 1870, produced mainly by the Mediterranean
countries. The Slovenian Istria and Primorje started
Meat dishes (sh, mutton, poultry, beef) are well known growing khaki a little later, during the rst decades of
for their method of preparation, gvacat (squazzetto) is the last century. Most of the khakis is produced in the
a meat dish with sauce containing native Istrian spices. valley Strunjan. In Strunjan so each year in the rst week
Many dishes are prepared in a padela (a frying pan of November have Khaki Day, where visitors can taste
with a handle) or under a repnja (cover for cooking
various kinds of khakis, khaki spirit, khaki jam, various
over embers). These dishes are more commonly found khaki desserts (pies, krostate, cakes, tarts) and so on.
in the vicinity of Koper than in the town itself, but with
a little eort you will be able to nd excellent sh soup, The olive trees
marinade, or similar dishes even within the town itself. These ancient trees, which originate in the Mediter-
Despite some attempts to preserve and revive authen- ranean, can reach a respectable age. Olives were picked
tic Istrian cuisine, there is a tendency in Koper towards from wild olive trees in prehistoric times. Later they were
more modern culinary ideas, which oer the most varied ennobled and the ancient Greeks allegedly knew around
dishes, from sh, meat, pasta, and pizzas something for fteen species of olive trees. The oil produced was used
every pocket. for many purposes: food, lighting, worshipping the gods
Olive oil, which has been used in Istrian cuisine since the and as one of the more important trade goods. The Baby-
old days, has the most suitable ratio between saturated lonian code from 2500 BC includes regulations regarding
and unsaturated fat. It has a high percentage of oleic acid the olive oil trade. The Phoenicians and the Greeks even
and a suitable quantity of essential fatty acids. In the fruits had special ships for transporting amphorae containing
of the area, there are also sugars, cellulose, and minerals olive oil. Due to its increasing importance, the Romans
such as calcium, potassium, iron, and copper, which have planted olive trees all across their empire, wherever it was
a benecial eect on the veins, heart, and digestion. Bon able to grow. Olive trees have been growing in Istria since
apptit! the Roman times and even the most respected classes of
Roman society had olives on their menus including the
Tipical products from Istria imperial kitchen of Emperor Augustus. Slovenian Istria
Fig loaf is one of the northernmost regions where olive trees grow
This wonderful treat is made from ground dried gs, successfully. Olive oils from this region are undoubtedly
mixed with g or grape juice, shaped into a loaf and one of the best and they are known as oils with excep-
lightly rolled in our. Cut into slices, this is a delicious, tional aromatic and medicinal properties, mostly due to
healthy and natural snack without added sugar and preser- the special Mediterranean climate where they grow.
vatives. Asparagus
Istrian jota Wild asparagus or "paroga, is a characteristic Mediter-
52 CHAPTER 11. ISTRIA

ranean plant. It grows at the edge of the forests of Slove-

nian Istria and it grows up to one meter high. It is born
each year in the spring months from half of March to
half of May. An old istrian proverb says: April spareser,
Maio sareser (April of asparagus, May of cherries).
Lavender
The lavender is one of the plants that you immediately
associate with the Mediterranean. However, it can also
be found in an ornamental garden. We recognize it by its
dark blue or violet owers and a typical fragrance. It has
a relaxing and benecial action on the body. It is used as
a healing plant, because lavender owers are full of active
substances. The lavender is used to treat migraine, dizzi-
ness and atulence. In addition, lavender is also used for
decoration in bouquets of dried owers and potpuri. Be-
cause their fragrance dried owers are put in wardrobes
since drive away moths.

11.9 Drink
Istria is a land of vineyards. Wines are sweet and fruity,
with a wide variety of grapes present, such as white mal-
vasia, red teran and muscat. The most famous vineyard
area is Kalavojna, on the Eastern coast.
Regional liquor grappa is widely produced in here, with
several varieties available.

11.10 Stay safe

11.11 Go next
The hilly Cres island in the Gulf of Kvarner can be
reached by car ferry from Brestova.
Chapter 12

Brijuni

Brijuni is in the Istria region of Croatia. 12.5 See

12.1 Understand 12.6 Do

You can book excursions plus yachting, golf and diving
The Brijuni archipelago lies o Istria`s west coast, a 15
expeditions. The organized tour (160kn) passes Veliki
minute boat journey from Faana, just north of Pula.
Brijuni`s main sights on a little train with an accompany-
Most of the 14 islands are o-limits to the public. You
ing guide. It takes about 4 hours including the sea cross-
have to be a member of the world`s elite to get an invite
ing from Faana. Independent travellers can hire a bike
here. Luckily there is so much to see on the other two
or a little electric buggy.
you`re unlikely to feel hard done by.

12.1.1 History 12.7 Buy

Brijuni is preserved as an open-air time machine, record-
ing 5,000 years of human history and 150 million years 12.8 Eat
of prehistory when dinosaurs patrolled the islands. More
recently, the islands were used by Marshall Tito to con-
duct diplomacy and entertain visitors such as Queen Eliz-
12.9 Drink
abeth II, Princess Margaret and Elizabeth Taylor. The sa-
fari park today consists of many animals donated by these 12.10 Sleep
visitors, including Sony and Lanka, two Indian elephants
from Indira Gandhi.
12.10.1 Lodging

12.1.2 Landscape 12.10.2 Camping

Brijuni consists of hectares of well-maintained, green 12.10.3 Backcountry

parkland surrounded by the dazzling Adriatic and planted
with avenues of prehistoric-looking pines.
12.11 Stay safe
12.1.3 Flora and fauna 12.12 Go next
12.1.4 Climate

12.2 Get in

12.3 Fees/Permits

12.4 Get around

53
Chapter 13

Faana

Faana is a village in the Istria region, Croatia. As a
tourist destination its mostly known as transport hub for
boat trips to the popular Brijuni archipelago. However,
this shermens town with its small port is a pleasant place
itself too.
Open every day 10am-6pm. Authorized diving cen-
tre that organizes daily scuba dives and fun dives
in Brijuni National Park and also gives PADI scuba
diving courses. Brijunis seabed is a protected and
well preserved underwater area with rich ora and
fauna. (updated Nov 2015)

13.1 Understand
13.6 Buy
13.2 Get in
13.7 Eat
Faana lies on the regional road from Vodnjan to Pula.
13.8 Drink
13.3 Get around
13.9 Sleep
13.4 See
13.10 Connect

13.11 Go next

Parish church of St. Kosmas and Damian

13.5 Do
Hippocampus Diving Centre, inside the camp Bi
village (2km from Faana), +385 99 400 6922.

54
Chapter 14

Motovun

Motovun is a hilltop town in Istria.

14.1 Understand

Motovun

Views of the surrounds

14.3 Get around

14.4 See
The spectacular views from the town over the surrounding
countryside.

14.5 Do
Motovun

14.6 Buy
There are various little artisan shops scattered within the
town.

14.7 Eat
Region is known for trues which are served at the
restaurants in the town.

Town centre
14.8 Drink

14.2 Get in 14.9 Sleep

55
56 CHAPTER 14. MOTOVUN

14.10 Connect

14.11 Go next
Chapter 15

Pore

Pore (Italian: Parenzo) is on the Adriatic coast of

Croatia.

15.1 Get in

Euphrasian Basilica, interior

Euphrasian Basilica, exterior

Venezia Lines sail from Venice to Pore during the

summer months (AprilOctober). 15.3 See

Timetable : All departures from Venice are at 5:00pm - Euphrasian Basilica. A UNESCO World Heritage
Arrival at Porec 7h30pm Return from Porec to Venice at Site, rebuilt in the 6th century during the Byzantine
8h00 a.m. and Arrival in Venice 10h30 a.m. Empire.

Streets. its Decumanus and Cardo Maximus still

15.2 Get around have Roman structure original forms.

Pore is very small, and its almost impossible to get lost

in the town. There is a bus station, and taxi rank nearby if
you are staying at one of the many hotel/apartment com- 15.4 Do
plexes out of town. If you enter into the old town, which
is to the right from the bus station, you will see a tourist
oce (logo has blue i). The tourist oce will give you a 15.5 Buy
map of the area.

57
58 CHAPTER 15. PORE

15.6 Eat bar, # wellness contents, beauty center, cardio-

Ulixes, +385 52-451 132. Decumanus 2. This
cosy little restaurant was a surprise to nd in the
very touristy Pore. Theres the choice of dining in a
candlelit stone-clad interior outside in the sunny ter-
race. The service is very friendly and helpful (speak-
ing English, Italian, German and Croatian!). Be-
tween two people you can have a whole fresh sh,
with baked vegetables, quite simple but absolutely
delicious. Worth visiting this town just to eat here.
Prices are quite expensive for Croatia.
15.7 Drink
15.8 Sleep
Obala marala Tita, a street along the seacoast
Apartments Lanterna Vagriba, Porec, HR 52440.
A cluster of apartments about 15 km away from
Pore itself. Its cheap (54 a night for a four bed
apartment), but youll need a taxi to get into town (or
wait for the infrequent bus). The places themselves
are clean, with dining/living room, shower, balcony
and kitchen, there are a few restaurants and bars on
site plus a cheesy disco. Its mainly populated by 15.9 Go next
mainly German tourists with frightening hair and or-
ange tans.
Apartment Sunshine Porec. Self-catering apart- day to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. You can buy your
ment Sunshine Porec is located on the outskirts of tickets at the bus stations on the day of departure.
Porec, a 1.5 km from the sea and 3km from the cen-
ter of Porec. Apartment consists of one bedroom,
open-plan living room with fully equipped kitchen,
bathroom and a balcony with beautiful views over
Istrian countryside. Accommodates 2; daily prices
from 40.
gym, outdoor swimming pool and pool for chil-
dren, whirlpool, pebble beach 100 m from the hotel;
prices from 57 single room, 88 double room
Valamar Crystal Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. The
Valamar Crystal Hotel is family hotel, its open from
April to October. Info: 223 rooms / 453 beds, 6
oors; rooms: single, twin and triple rooms, twin
rooms with extra bed, quad rooms and suite; two
restaurants and bars; outdoor swimming pool and
swimming pool for children, whirlpool; beach 150
m from hotel; other: evening music, sport center,
tennis courts near, 2 meeting rooms, internet cor-
ner; price: from 72 twin room
Valamar Diamant Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. The
Valamar Diamant Hotel in Pore, is located in the
shade of green pine trees close to the sea, and is a ten
minute walk from the picturesque centre of Pore it-
self. The wide selection of food, spacious wellness
centre, imaginatively designed indoor and outdoor
pools, as well as the large number of sporting facil-
ities
Valamar Pinia Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. Pinia is
located directly on the sea, ten minutes walk from
Porecs ancient town centre. For families with chil-
dren and active holiday.
Valamar Rubin Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. Open
from April to October, 258 air-conditioned rooms /
483 beds, 9 oors, 2 lifts; single rooms, twin rooms
with extra beds, triple and family rooms; restau-
rant, bars; outdoor swimming pool and swimming
pool for children; beach 100 m from the hotel;
sport/entertainment center; prices starts from 40
single room, 56 twin room.
Buses leave from the towns bus station every couple of
hours to Pula and Rijeka. Buses leave about four times a

Valamar Club Tamaris. Valamar Club Tamaris

is located on the Lanterna peninsula surrounded by
Mediterranean vegetation, open from April to Oc-
tober, 390 rooms: single, twin and family rooms,
studio apartments; Valeta la carte restaurant,
restaurant and bar at the pool, cocktail-bar, lobby
Chapter 16

Pula

16.2.1 By plane

Pula has its own international airport with daily ights to

Zagreb, and direct services from many European cities
including Amsterdam, Edinburgh, London, Manchester,
Oslo, Vienna and Zurich. Ryanair operates direct ights
from London three times a week. Many ights to Pula
are charter rather than scheduled, while other ights are
seasonal (summer only).
There is a scheduled bus service from the bus station in
town to the airport. Buses are operated by Brioni and con-
nect to most major ights. The cost of a one-way ticket
Zlatna vrata is HRK25. A taxi from the bus station to the city should
be around HRK85 in the low season and much higher in
Pula (Italian Pola, Slovene Pulj) is a nice town at the tip the summer.
of the Istrian peninsula, Croatia. It is possible to also consider Rijeka Airport on the island
of Krk and Trieste Airport in nearby Italy to access Pula
as they are close by and oer ights to dierent destina-
16.1 Understand tions.
Buses from the Pula bus station to Pula airport leave at
Its history started about 3000 years ago when it was built the following times. The cost is HRK30. (last updated
by Illyrians. Romans occupied Istria in 177 B.C. After 6-Apr-2014)
the destruction of Western Roman empire, Istrian penin-
sula was devastated by Ostrogoths. Slavs came in Istria
during migration period in 7th century but mostly lived on 16.2.2 By land
countryside. At that time Pula was still inhabited mostly
by Italians. Landlords in Pula changed quite frequently in The large and modern bus station is on the edge of the 'old
middle ages from republic of Venice to Genoa to Illyrian town' district and is the hub of local, domestic and inter-
Provinces to AustriaHungary and many others. After national bus routes. There are direct buses from Zagreb,
second world war it has been part of Croatia. In that time Rijeka, Split, Trieste, Ljubljana, Belgrade and Venice.
Italians ed to mother Italy and Pula was inhabited by Online timetables are listed at and .
Croats. Although most of the population still consists of
Croats there are lots of quite big minorities in Pula such There is also a train station near the waterfront with ser-
as Serbs, Italians, Bosniaks and Slovenes. vices serving Istria and into Slovenia due to historical
circumstance rather than back towards the rest of Croa-
Most tourists visit in the summer months, with most tia (though a connecting coach service operates for ser-
tourist trips and restaurants closing between October and vices to Rijeka and Zagreb). Ticket prices, timetables
May. and other information are on the Croatian Railways web-
site.
Hitchhiking from Zagreb works very well. In Zagreb start
16.2 Get in from the petrol station after the Billa supermarket on
the southside of the Sava river. In Rijeka ask people to
Map of Pula drop you o at the little SOS stop after a pretty sharp right
bend of the motor way around Rijeka.

59
60
16.2.3 By sea
Hydrofoil services operate from the wharf both around
the Croatian coastline, and across to Venice. These are
pricey, though provide a quick journey and provide some
great views.
Venezia Lines ferry connects Pula with Venice. It runs
ve times a week, travel time is around 3h.
16.3 Get around
Forum
For local transport you can use the Taxi Service which has
gotten cheaper since January 2012. Theres a company
oering taxi services now for 15-20kn/5km. Search for
Taxi Cammeo on every phonebook, or hail one of their
vehicles down. Local, owner operated taxis are more ex-
pensive. Buses are known to be expensive (11kn per card,
per person, per ride), however, if you plan on using the
Pulapromet only, you should make yourself a BusCard.
The BusCard is a electromagnetic ticket that you can ll
with money and then use cheaper bus rides. The price of
a buscard is 30kn but they usually sell them for 70kn since
they are prelled with 40kn you can use on the bus. The
BusCard reduces drastically the price of the ride making
it a 6kn per hour on the city lines (lines 1 to 9). Also, up
to 5 people can use the same BusCard at the same mo-
ment, for the same bus. Also, the money on the BusCard
is forever, meaning you can save it for the next time you
come to Pula without fearing money loss.
If you want to take a small backpack with you on an Au-
totrans bus, rst ask the driver if this is OK before buy-
ing the ticket. Otherwise you might be refused entry on
the bus and your ticket will not be refunded, even if you
have bought it o the driver just 2 minutes earlier (the
Brioni company seems OK -onboard small backpacks are
allowed, but you have to insist.)
All buses have a luggage area. The service is charged
separately from the ticket and it usually costs 7kn. Ev-
ery ticket can be refunded at the ticket oce (a fee will
be charged). There should be no problem taking a small
backpack or a small suitcase on the bus as long as you can
CHAPTER 16. PULA
t it in the overhead compartment (which is rather small)
or under your seat/legs..
16.4 See
The Roman arena.
1 Arena (Roman amphitheatre). The 6th largest
surviving Roman amphitheatre. Towering over the
nearby buildings this huge structure was barely saved
from destruction several times during its life, mostly
by various Venetians with plans to take it to Venice
stone by stone as demonstration of the might of the
Venetian empire. Many stones were taken to build
houses and other structures around Pula, but fortu-
nately this practice was stopped before the whole
structure was destroyed. Entry gives you access to
wander the inside of the Colosseum and visit the
caverns beneath. The audio tour is very worthwhile.
HRK20.
1 The Forum. The Forum is the main square in
the centre of the city. The square is built on the site
of the ancient Roman forum. On the square there is
a city hall that was built in the 10th century (parts of
an old temple were used for the building as it can be
seen on the rear side of the hall) and the Temple of
August, from the rst century.
Archeology Museum (HRK12).
Zlatna vrata (Triumphal arch, 1st century
BC), Dvojna vrata (Twin gate, 2-3rd century),
Herkulova vrata (Hercules gate, 1st century BC).
St. Francis church and monastery, 14th century
Orthodox church, 6th century
Katel, a Castle from the 17th century features Is-
trian history museum
Malo rimsko kazalite, Little Roman theatre be-
hind the Archeology museum
16.6. BUY 61

Mornariko groblje, Sailors cemetery (1866. - 16.6 Buy

about 150 000 soldiers of Austro-Hungarian nations
were buried there) and Mornarika crkva, Sailors
Trues. Istria is famous for its trues and various
Church
true products.

16.5 Do Malvazija and Teran. Autochthonous Istrian wine

sorts.

Medica. A honey rakija ,

Biska. A rakija with mistletoe.

16.7 Eat

Restaurant Farabuto. Excellent light and delicious

slow food.

Restaurant Galeb. You won't nd this one in any

tourist guide, but everyone in the city knows the
View of marina in Verudela place: they serve best chevapchichi (minced meat,
2in long, 1/2in wide) in the city.

Visit Brijuni. Group of islands famous for their

Restaurant Gina. Excellent food in a unique setting
scenic beauty. They are a holiday resort and a Croa-
that combines elegance with history.
tian National Park. They were also setlement in ro-
man times and were part of Republic of Venice.
There is also now famous Tito (leader of former Yu- Restaurant Asterix. The best pizza in town. You
goslavia) residence. Boats go from small town near should try the Asterix pizza, which means you can
Pula named Faana . have a pizza divided into thirds, with a dierent set
of toppings (kinds of pizza) on each one.
Go on Fish picnic. You can take a walk through
local marina and check out timetables and prices. Pizzeria Bambino. Good quality pizza and grill.
Prices are usually around HRK250 (30) per per-
son.
Pizzeria Jupiter. Near Arena, the Roman am-
Visit Pula Film Festival takes place in the Arena, phitheatre - very good pizza.
18-25 Jul.
Restaurant El Pulari. A mexican restaurant.
Walk down the Sergijevaca street where are many
small shops, souvenir shops, bars and even sweet
Restaurant Biska.
shops.

Spend a whole day on beaches of Kamenjak , near

Premantura (8km from Pula). This peninsula is 16.8 Drink
southernmost point of Istria, and features stunning
landscapes and protected nature. Drinking is a pleasurable pastime in Croatia

Discover abandoned Austro-hungarian fortresses ,

constructed just before WWI, when Pula was most
fortied city in Europe. Some of those fortresses are 16.9 Sleep
hidden in the forests, and some are now occupied
by Pula residents for dierent purposes, including Tourist information can provide you with a list of accom-
Punta Christo, which operates as a summer club modation in Pula, although they will not make reserva-
and music festival venue . tions for you.
62 CHAPTER 16. PULA

16.9.1 Budget
1 Hostel Pipitrelo, Flaciusova 6 (na Rivi), +385
91 223-0769, e-mail: info@pipistrelo.com. Lo-
cated in the centre of Pula, close to the main town
square forum, the rooms are individual mini art gal-
leries and the whole hostel is a design project burst-
ing with spirit. 17-23.50.
1 Pula Art Hostel, Marulieva 41, +385 95 846-
6517. Small, family-run, newly refurbished art hos-
tel in the centre of Pula. This hostel oers 2 fully
equipped kitchens and beds for couples; grill on ter-
race; Free Wi-Fi; 24h access; Cable TV. 17-27.
calm part of Pula 150m from the sea and 3km from
the beach. The spacious swimming pool in situated
in our award winning garden (over 1500m2). Our
apartments feature: SAT TV, microwave owen, cof-
fee machine, and two apartments also oer a wash
machine and air condition. We also oer free of
charge the use of grill and bikes and a save place
Amteatar Hotel, Amteatarska (100m from the
Roman Amteatar and the Marina), +385
52375600. Small modern hotel with en suite, at
screen TV, A/C, free Wi-Fi and a top class restau-
rant. Conveniently situated for bus, rail and ferry,
just 12 minutes from the airport.

Youth Hostel. And youth camp. Not such a nice

looking place, but it is situated some ten meters from
the beach, so you can almost jump directly from
your bedroom right into the sea. (To get there, take
bus 2a from the city (3a to return) and get o at
Zlatne Stijene then follow the signs.)
16.9.2 Unclassied
Hotel Riviera (1-star). Fabulous looking hotel built
in 1907 for the high-ranking ocers in the Austro-
Hungarian army. Never properly refurbished since
then it is now showing its age, but structurally it is
impressive and looks oh-so-grand from the outside.
The rooms are currently decked out with 1960s/70s
ttings (orange bed covers, brown wooden pan-
elling, lime green phone), with the sparseness show-
ing the lack of funds for upkeep. Having said all that,
its clean, tidy, and comfortable. No doubt within a
few years someone will make the investment to bring
it back to its former glory. Quite expensive for its fa-
cilities.
16.10 Go next
National Park Brijuni - The beautiful Brijuni is-
lands (also referred to as Brioni) stretch alongside
the south-west coast of the Istrian peninsula. The
national park oers too many attractions for all of
them to be described here (dinosaur footprints, ar-
chaeological nds and sites, a little zoo, extremely
rich ora and fauna, beautiful beaches, a former re-
sort for European royals) so visit their website for
more information .
Rovinj, Rovigno
Pore, Parenzo
Gronjan, Grisignana
Motovun, Montona

Villa Mihaela. 3 apartments for 2-4 persons.Each

of the apartments has a parking lot, and is equipped
with air conditioner, SAT TV, and all other appli-
ances that will make your stay pleasant.

Apartments Alexandra & Erika, Kozada 12/a, t-

injan, Pula, +385 52 223505. Attractive apart-
ments in the proximity of the well known Brijuni Is-
lands national park. A quiet place in a family house,
built in 2004. in tinjan only a few kilometres away
from the centre of Pula. Air-con, SAT TV, fridge
with freezer, kitchen with all the accessories, cook-
ing stove (electricity+gas), washing machine, bal-
cony.

Apartments with Swimming pool Slivar (Apart-

ments pool Pula), Samagher 17 (veli vrh, Pula
North). Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. 3 mod-
ern fully equipped apartments for 2-6 persons in a
Chapter 17

Rovinj

Old town harbor

Rovinj

is to drive - the journey takes approximately 40 minutes.

Although cars are not permitted in the old town, Rovinj
is suciently small so that parking is available close to
most of the city. Prices are around 2 HRK per hour (the
park-o-meters accept only coins).
There are also buses from Central Pula.

17.2.2 By boat
Venezia Lines is a high speed ferry company in the North
Adriatic, linking Venice to the Istrian coast and in partic-
ular Rovinj. Departure (in season) every day at 5.00PM
View of Rovinj at sunset and arrival at 8.00PM.

Rovinj (Italian: Rovigno) is a city in Istria. The city is

ocially bilingual (Croatian and Italian). 17.3 Get around
The old town and the surrounding area are small, and are
17.1 Understand easily accessible on foot. Bicycle hire is quite inexpen-
sive in Rovinj and there are very good cycle tracks up
and down the coast.
17.2 Get in

17.2.1 By plane 17.4 See

Rovinj is served by Pula airport approximately 30 km The old town is best explored on foot. Worth seeing
south. The easiest way to reach Rovinj from the airport are the original entrance into the city, the Balbi Arch;

63
64
In the old town
the market at Valdibora; the cathedral of Sv. Euphemia;
the artists street of Grisia, described as Rovinjs Mont-
martre"; and the harbour in the centre of the town.
There are also taxi boats and excursions to St Katherines Be sure to carry cash, as not all places accept cards, and
Island, in the harbour.
17.5 Do
Walk around in the old town.
Climb the campanile of the cathedral of Sv Eu-
phemia in the middle of the old town.
Shop for trues, olive oil, seafood or fruit and veg-
etables in the open air market, between 7am and
4pm.
Cycle there are miles of cycle tracks to the south
through pine forest that follow the coast line. Cycle
Hire is relatively cheap for good quality bikes.
Swim right there, below the church you can clamber
over the rocks and take a dive in the Adriatic.
Rovinj Heritage Museum, Trg marsala Tita
11/52210 Rovinj, +385 52 816 720. 9am-3pm,
7pm-10pm (late opening, summer only). The Mu-
seum is housed in a Baroque palace that in the 17th
and18th century belonged to the Cali counts. It
was founded in 1954 by a group of artists from Rov-
inj with the intention of collecting and exhibiting
works of art. Today it serves as a town gallery and
as a place where its rich bank of works of art is per-
manently exhibited. 15.00 HRK.
17.5.1 Rock climbing
There is a big climbing area just half an hour by foot from
the city centre (follow signs to the Park Hotel, then 10
minutes further down the road).
CHAPTER 17. ROVINJ
There are several other climbing areas in the region, but
you need a car to get there:
Limski Canal
Dvigrad
17.6 Buy
The excellent market on Valdibora sells fresh sh straight
from the boat; trues and true oil; olive oil; plenty of
fresh fruit and vegetables.
17.7 Eat
in those which do, the feature is usually temporarily out
of order. Many establishments close over the winter.
Calisona, Trg Pignaton 1 (Opposite the museum).
Multilingual menu, with pizza, pasta, risotto, as
well as speciality meat and sh dishes. Reasonable
prices, excellent service. Sit and watch everyone
go by, located just away from the crowded seafront
squares. 40-120kn.
Neptun, Joakima Rakovca. 11am - 10pm. Quiet,
quirky restaurant specialising in seafood, pizzas and
veal cooked in the peka - a slow-cooking method us-
ing live coals and a long-handled pan. You need to
order two days in advance for this. main course 45-
120kn.
Lampo, Sv. Kria 22, Rovinj. Great restaurant with
nice waiters, the food is excellent and the view is
stunning. Make some fun with the waiters, they will
start to like you and serve you better. main course
45-120kn.
Basilica, Cesta za Valaltu-Lim 5 (Drive towards
camping Valalta, and pay attention to the right side of
the road, there will be a big sign that says Basilica). A
very good restaurant with excellent sta, the owner
is called Dominic, a very friendly guy that only ac-
cepts new waiters that have been to a hotel school.
So you can expect the waiters to clean everything
thats on the table, for example, if you extinguish one
cigarette in the ashtray, they will get a new ashtray
for you. The food is excellent and comes in good
amounts. You should denitely try the steak, be-
cause Dominic also owns a steakhouse in New York
and he uses the same recipe. main/high course 45-
200kn.
17.10. GO NEXT 65

17.8 Drink
Cocktail Bar Valentino, Rovinj. Fantastic loca-
tion by the sea with atmospheric under sea lighting
and seating on the rocks. Unfortunately heavy sales
pressure on arriving female customers to buy cham-
pagne, rude service and over priced chemical cock-
tails that havent seen fresh fruit.

17.9 Sleep
Villa Baron Gautsch (follow the signs to the
Park Hotel located in the same street), +385-52-
814042, fax: +385-52-840537. Nice guesthouse
with very friendly personal. Clean, small rooms,
single rooms available. Between 20 and 37 per
day and person including breakfast, depending on
the season.

17.10 Go next
Rovinj is well-placed for visiting the Limski Kanal (Lim
Canal), where the lm The Long Ships was shot. Excur-
sions can also be made to the Brijuni Islands National
Park, and to many of the other cities in Istria, such as
Pula, Novigrad, Porec, Pazin, and Opatija. A slightly
longer journey could take you to Rijeka; Izola or Piran
in Slovenia; or Trieste in Italy, all of which fall within the
ancient boundaries of Istria. There is a daily high-speed
ferry during the warmer months to Venice from the har-
bour in Rovinj. The ferry takes about 2 hours and takes
you to almost the centre of Venice.
Chapter 18

Umag

Umag is a town in Istria on the Adriatic coast of Croatia. 18.2 Get in

18.2.1 By plane
Trieste International Airport (45 km)

Airport Pula (65 km)

18.2.2 By train
Rail Station Pazin (35)

Rail Station Buzet (40)

18.2.3 By car
Panorama of Umag
From North:

Ljubljana -Kopar - Border Katel / Plovanija - Umag

18.1 Understand
From East:
Umag is a picturesque small Mediterranean town - har-
bour, the Croatian gate to Europe, the rst tourist des-
Zagreb - Rijeka - tunnel Uka -Buzet - Buje - Umag
tination you come across on arrival to the northern part
of the Adriatic coast. Umag has excellent road and air
connections with all large towns in the world (at only 50 From South:
nautical miles from the famous Venice!). It is located in
an attractive bay with one of the most prestigious ACI Pula - Vodnjan - Bale - Sv. Lovrec - Porec - Novigrad -
marinas awarded the Blue Flag. Its natural beauties, the Umag or Pula - Vodnjan - Bale - Sv. Lovrec - Baderna -
history and tradition of the old town of Umag and of the Viinada - Buje - Umag
surrounding Istrian area, a warm Mediterranean climate
with an abundance of sunshine during most months of
the year and high quality hotels, campsites, apartments 18.3 Get around
and bungalows make Umag an ideal vacation place for the
whole family. The history of Umag is exceptionally inter-
Arena in Pula
esting: In ancient times it was discovered by Roman aris-
tocracy who adopted it for their summer residence.The
town has preserved parts of the town walls and defence The Arena in Pula, the Roman amphitheatre is located in
towers, Renaissance and Baroque houses and churches, the centre of Pula. It was built in 1st century BC and took
the most famous among them being the parish church of its present form in 1st century when it could seat about
the Assumption of Virgin Mary and the church of St. 20,000 spectators. It served for gladiator ghts that took
Peregrine. Umag is a widely known site of the interna- place in it until 5th century.
tional ATP tennis tournament, which has been success-
fully organized since 1990. Brijuni Islands - national park

66
18.4. SEE 67

The Cretaceous Park with fossilized dinosaur foot-

prints, Byzantine castrum and the remains of Ro-
man villas, archaeological and natural-science col-
lection, the exhibition Josip Broz Tito on Bri-
juni, the Mausoleum of Kupelwieser family are
only some of the sights you should not miss. And
while walking along the islands you will be accom-
panied by numerous tame bird species, deer, mou-
ons and other big game.

Euphrasian Basilica part of the UNESCO

World Cultural Heritage

In the town of Pore, near Umag, there is one of the

most beautiful early Byzantine churches in Europe called
Euphrasian Basilica after the bishop of Pore who had
this marvellous three-nave church built over the site of
an older church. Of special interest are the impressive
mosaics over the apse of precious stones and mother-of-
pearl.

Motovun walls

The walls surrounding the small medieval hilltop town of Umag - the old town
Motovun present an invaluable cultural and historical her-
itage of Istria. The very well preserved old town core is Due to Umags stormy history the buildings from the Late
surrounded by impressive defence walls. Antiquity and Early Middle Ages were completely de-
stroyed. The present historical core has inherited the
Hum the smallest town in the world urban structure of the Middle Ages. There are numer-
ous reminders of that era: wall remains, Venetian villas
and above all, picturesque narrow streets. The one that
According to the Guinness Book of Records, with its 23
is best preserved is also the oldest one the west tower
inhabitants, Hum is the smallest town in the world. It is
now housing the Museum of Umag, keeper of a valuable
situated in the central part of Istria and famous for the
collection of archaeological artefacts found on the site of
Alley of the Glagolitic priests a unique memorial to the
the town of Umag.
old Croatian Glagolitic script.

Church of St. Peregrine

Lim Channel
Not far from Umag, on the Rosazzo promontory there is
It is a geo-morphological phenomenon with overgrown a small, very old Church of St. Peregrine. It was built by
canyon clis rising up to 150 m above sea level. With the inhabitants of Umag to mark the spot where, during
its narrow, 11 km long inlet it represents one of the most the Diocletian era.
beautiful landscapes in Istria.
Lighthouse in Savudrija
Nature Park Uka
The oldest lighthouse on the Adriatic Coast built in 1818,
36 m high with the light visible from the distance of 32
The Uka mountain and its highest peak Vojak at 1401
kilometres. The construction of the lighthouse is con-
m oering breathtaking 360 panoramic view over the
nected with a love story of Count Metternich, who al-
Istrian peninsula, north Adriatic islands, Gorski Kotar
though married, fell in love with a local girl and had the
mountains, Venice, Italian Alps...
lighthouse built to her honour.

Sipar Promontory
18.4 See
Between Savudrija and Umag during low tides a small 200
Old town of Umag m long and 50 m wide promontory and a pile of stones
68
rise from the sea: These are the only remains of the an- 18.8.2 Resorts
cient Castle of Sipar from the 5th century. The town of
Siparis existed here during the Roman era, a proof of this Meli Istrian Villas. The cape stretching far into
being the foundations of villas and houses, mosaics, mar-
ble, ceramic, urns and coins found in this location, all
dating from the era of Constantine and Valerius. Sipar
was totally plundered and destroyed in 876 by the Neret-
vian pirates led by the Ban Domagoj and never regained
its previous signicance.
Villa Tiola
A real paradise for divers! This luxury villa had its own
Roman spa, water cistern, huge dwelling quarters lav-
ishly decorated with mosaics on the oor and frescos on
the walls. The remains of a pier measuring 30 metres in
length and 6 metres wide are located in the sea near the
villa, while the remains of an enormous construction can
also be recognized, most likely a pool of another Roman
villa.
18.5 Do
18.6 Buy
18.7 Eat
18.8 Sleep
18.8.1 Hotels
Hotel Meli Coral. The rst 5 stars hotel in Istria.
Hotel Sol Umag. Elegance, details, style, relax-
ation...
Hotel Sol Garden Istra. The sport & family hotel
with an impressive water park.
Hotel Sol Aurora - All Inclusive. Impressive
natural surroundings and the interior provides the
warmest Mediterranean atmosphere.
Hotel Sipar. Waking up with a view of the open
sea and to the sound of waves.
Guest house - Komfor Adriatic. An unforgettable
view of the whole town of Umag and its surround-
ings.
Rooms for rent Moj Mir. The place where you can
be yourself, sheltered from the rest of the world.
CHAPTER 18. UMAG
the open sea, where the green arches the clearness of
the sea and the sun warms the beaches hidden from
the rest of the world.
Sol Amfora. Sol Amfora apartments are in the cen-
tre of the Stella Maris Resort, a breathtaking seaside
destination in Umag.
Sol Stella. The most beautiful croatian beach
Polynesia. The resort is bathed in sun and crystal-
clear sea, with a long beach at the very promontory.
Kanegra. Entertainment, games, contests, cock-
tails, DJ music all day long, dancing till dawn in a
new discotheque...
Savudrija. The tourist resort is located near the old-
est lighthouse on the Adriatic Coast from 1818, the
history of which hides a tragic love story of Count
Metternich of Austria.
18.8.3 Campsites
Campsite Park Umag. Campsite Park Umag is
one of the largest Mediterranean campsites.
Campsite Finida. Peaceful, intimate atmosphere
and secluded bays, providing a real experience of
nature.
Campsite Stella Maris. Modern campsite for fam-
ilies and individuals who enjoy active holidays and
nature.
Campsite Pineta. Protected from everyday noise,
in the atmosphere of a picturesque shermens vil-
lage.
Kanegra FKK. This naturist campsite oers natu-
ral holiday experience.
18.9 Connect
18.10 Go next
Chapter 19

Vrsar

Vrsar is a millennia-old little town in Istria. Vrsar used
to be a shermans village, now more famous as a family
tourist destination. Just o Vrsars coast lies one of the
most beautiful Istrian archipelagos with 18 uninhabited
islands.
19.1 Get in
19.2 Get around
business trip. Maistra features hotel Pineta and 6 re-
sorts in Vrsar(Belvedere, Petalon, Funtana, Riva, Natur-
ist park Koversada Villas and Naturist park Koversada
Apartments).
Camping Vrsar (Top campsites in Vrsar), Obala V.
Nazora 6, +385 52800200. Maistras campsites
are awarded as best campsites in Croatia. All camp-
sites are located near the sea and most of them also
oer swimming pools. Campsites in Vrsar: Valka-
nela, Porto Sole and Naturist park Koversada Camp-
site.

19.3 See
19.9 Connect
19.4 Do
19.10 Go next
19.5 Buy

19.6 Eat
Fancita, Dalmatinska 38. Beautiful bar and best
pizza in all of Istra. They deliver, and the locals par-
take in it often as well.

19.7 Drink

19.8 Sleep
Maistra Hotels & Resorts (Top Hotels & Resorts in
Vrsar), Obala V. Nazora 6, +38552800250. En-
ter the world of comfort, quality and style in Mais-
tra hotels and resorts in two beautiful and colorful
Mediterranean towns - Rovinj and Vrsar.

High-end accommodation, excellent service, the best

amenities and our experience and expertise create a per-
fect blend with the surrounding area, turning our ho-
tels and resorts into an ideal choice for a weekend get-
away, holiday, active or Wellness & Spa holiday or a

69
Chapter 20

Slavonia

Slavonia (Slavonija in Croatian) is the northeastern re- Sotin

gion of Croatia, bordering Hungary, Serbia, and Bosnia
and Herzegovina. (It should not be confused with the Paetin
nearby country of Slovenia.) Vera
Borovo
20.1 Cities Jagodnjak
Bradin
Belie
Markuica
Bizovac

akovo
20.3 Other destinations
Ilok

Osijek Nature park Kopaki rit

Poega Nature park Papuk

Liberland a piece of disputed land on the bank
Slavonski Brod
of the Danube, proclaimed by a Czech activist as
Topusko the Free Republic of Liberland

Vinkovci

Vukovar 20.4 Understand

upanja Slavonia is a distinct region in terms of ethnological fac-
tors in traditional music.
Valpovo

Beli Manastir
20.5 Get in
20.2 Villages 20.6 Get around
idski Banovci
20.7 See
Trpinja

Bobota The Kopaki Rit is the biggest natural wetlands in

Europe and the birdlife is spectacular. This enor-
Negoslavci mous nature park, located around 15km north of
Osijek where the Danube and Drava rivers ow into
Nijemci one another, is a great day out in the countryside -
Mirkovci though bring some insect repellent as the mosquitos
do bite!! There is no public transport to the park, so
Dalj take the local bus to Bilje and its a 2-3km walk.

70
20.12. GO NEXT 71

20.7.1 Itineraries
Stay in Osijek, the principal city of Slavonia and visit
all the sights and cities around.

20.8 Do

20.9 Eat

20.10 Drink

20.11 Stay safe

20.12 Go next
Chapter 21

akovo

akovo is a small city in Slavonia, eastern Croatia. 21.8 Sleep

21.9 Connect
21.1 Get in
The town is located on the railway line between Osijek 21.10 Go next
and Doboj in Bosnia, and close to the E73 Highway (also
known as the Pan-European corridor X).
By train: Osijek, Zagreb, Budapest and Sarajevo By bus:
good connections to Osijek, Zagreb, Vukovar, Slavonski
Brod, Belgrade, Tuzla, and weekly buses to Salzburg and
Zurich

21.2 Get around

Walk! Its a compact enough town and gives great oppor-
tunities to take in the sights on oer.

21.3 See
The large, imposing Cathedral

Training of the Lipizzaner horses on the edge of the

city (a great mornings viewing)

21.4 Do
Every year in July is the annual folk and embroidery
festival which attracts visitors from far and wide.

21.5 Buy

21.6 Eat

21.7 Drink

72
Chapter 22

Liberland

Liberland is a micronation at the eastern end of the towards Zmajevac (see By bus) or go by car straight into
Croatian region of Slavonia. Liberland.

22.2.2 By train
22.1 Understand
There are no railways in Liberland
Liberland, otherwise the Free Republic of Liberland
(Czech: Svobodn republika Liberland), is a self-
proclaimed micronation claiming a parcel of land on the 22.2.3 By car
western bank of the Danube river between Croatia and
Serbia, sharing a land border with the former. It is possible to reach Liberland by car as it is connected
The piece of land on which Liberland is situated (locally to Croatia by road. Please note that it was reported that
known as Gornja Siga or just Siga) is claimed by both roads are in bad condition, so it may not be possible to
Croatia and Serbia (the latter being much less aggressive reach Liberland by car in which case, you will be
in putting forth this claim), but according to other sources forced to continue by foot.
it constituted terra nullius (no ones land) prior to the
proclaimation of Liberland, and belonged to neither, due
to an obscure agreement made prior to the changes of
22.2.4 By bus
the course of the Danube. At 7 sq km (2.7 sq mi),
There is no regular bus connection to Liberland; however,
Gornja Siga is larger than the two smallest nations on
you can take a bus from Osijek to Zmajevac and then con-
earth, Vatican City and Monaco (in fact, Siga is only a
tinue by foot or by bike. Bus connections between Osijek
little smaller than three times the size of those two com-
and Zmajevac are very infrequent, though only twice
bined).
a week.

22.2 Get in 22.2.5 By boat

It is not guaranteed one will be able to cross the border as It is possible to reach Liberland by boat from Serbia by
crossing is often prevented by Croatian border guards, al- crossing Danube river. This is also believed to be the
though you can still try getting in as the border isn't clearly safest method.
marked and there is another way getting in from Serbia
by boat which is reported to be more convenient.
22.2.6 By LSA assistance
There are reports of people attempting to enter the area
being arrested by Croatian authorities. Its possible to arrange help from Liberland settlement as-
sociation (LSA), when crossing the border. To do so, you
must follow the following obligations: - Contact LSA;
22.2.1 By plane e-mail: info@liberlandsa.org, phone numbers: +385 99
841 6836, +381 64 4276428, +45 29714935 - Visit LSA
There is no airport in Liberland. However it is possible base camp in Serbia; From this Serbian village, Bezdan
to y to Osijek in Croatia as there is an airport serving di- can be reached by taking a road towards the Croatian vil-
rect ights from London twice a week, from Zagreb every lage Batina. The camp is located right before the Croatian
weekday, from Dubrovnik every Thursday and from Split border. Its about 3 kilometres from Bezdan. - After ar-
every Friday. Once you are in Osijek you can take the bus rival to LSA base camp you will be required to join LSA.

73
74 CHAPTER 22. LIBERLAND

This means that you will have to volunteer during your
stay.
Please note that LSA can't provide assistance to physi-
cally and mentally disabled persons. Persons without a
valid passport and medical insurance also won't be given
assistance.
22.10 Sleep
If you are going to sleep in Liberland, bring a sleeping
bag or tent. For LSA volunteers accommodation is pro-
vided in hotels in Serbia from 10 per person per night.
Citizens can use LSAs tents in Liberland.

22.3 Get around 22.11 Learn

The most convenient way to get around is by car or by 22.12 Work

foot.
LSA is currently looking for people with knowledge of
Serbo-Croatian, holders of driving and boating license
22.4 Talk and those who can contribute infrastructure. Contact
Liberland settlement association for more information.
Ocial languages in Liberland are Czech and English.
22.13 Stay safe
22.5 See As mentioned above, some travellers attempting to en-
ter the area are known to get detained and ned by the
There is not much to see in Liberland as the majority of Croatian authorities, on charges of violating the Croatian
the land is covered by forest. There are reported to be border regime and unpermitted entry to the border zone.
some abandoned chalets and small houses.

22.14 Stay healthy

22.6 Do
22.15 Respect
Nation building - Many who arrive by LSA assis-
tance will most likely do some maintenance and
building; otherwise, you can ask if any help is 22.16 Connect
needed
If you arrive by LSA free wi- is provided. LSA will also
assist with swapping to Croatian or Serbian SIM cards if
22.7 Buy needed.

The Liberland Settlement Association sells chilli sauces

and rakija (an alcoholic drink of the Balkans) made out
of products grown in Liberland.

22.8 Eat
If arriving with LSA, food will be provided free of charge;
otherwise, bring your own food.

22.9 Drink
If arriving with LSA, drinks will be provided free of
charge, including alcohol. If you arrive on your own,
bring your own drinks.
Chapter 23

Osijek

23.2.1 By rail

Rail services to Osijek terminate at the grand 1880s rail-

way building at the bottom edge of the central town. In
addition to the numerous train services operate each day
to Zagreb (including the new, high-speed tilt train which
completes the journey in around 3 hours), there are ser-
vices to Koprivnica and Rijeka as well as other local ser-
vices within Croatia to places like Slavonski Brod and
akovo. The Croatian Railways has information on train
times and tickets. The railway station is being renovated
and modernised. There are daily connections with places
in the city area. There are also daily connections to Bizo-
Central square of Osijek (Trg Ante Starcevica)
vac spa.

Osijek is a city in Eastern Croatia. It is an important

transport hub and the principal city of Slavonia. 23.2.2 By bus

The bus station adjoins the train station and oers inter-
national as well as domestic services. Some of the many
destinations on oer include Vukovar, akovo, Novi Sad,
23.1 Understand Belgrade, Pecs and Tuzla. Timetables, tickets and infor-
mation are easily accessible. Panturist is the major bus
operator out of Osijek and has listings of domestic and
Due to its important location near the junction of the international bus travel - click on the vozni red icon. Cen-
Drava and Danube rivers, this large and prosperous town tral bus station is renovating and it will become the biggest
(the fourth largest city in Croatia with a population one in south-eastern Europe. Bus companies Panturist,
around 120,000) bore much of the brunt of the recent Polet, APP, Croatiatrans and many other smaller com-
conict in the 1990s. Many ne buildings have been re- panies are daily connecting the city with all parts of the
stored to their former glory, though do not be surprised to country.
see some scars still remaining. Some buildings still have
bullet holes or shrapnel markings in them, though like the
local economy, the town is mostly back to where it was in 23.2.3 By plane
pre-war days. Osijek is the largest city and the economic
and the cultural centre of the eastern Croatian region of
In summer months, there are ights with Croatia Air-
Slavonia, as well as the administrative center of Osijek-
lines from the Adriatic coast from Split and Dubrovnik
Baranja county. to Osijek Airport (located some distance from the city).
This can be very useful to save back-tracking through to
Zagreb once again, or the very mountainous and windy
journey through Bosnia. Buses and taxis connect the air-
23.2 Get in port with the city center and hotels. There is also a sec-
ondary airport, used exclusively for sport and private y-
ing purposes (Sport Airport epin). It is also used for
Osijek is the major rail and road hub for all forms of exhibitions. When Pope John Paul II visited Croatia, this
transport in eastern Croatia. was the place where the service was held. The annual

75
76 CHAPTER 23. OSIJEK

car-show is also held at this airport. city to traverse by foot with few hills.
There is now an international service by Germanwings
to Cologne and other German cities. Ryanair has started
servicing ights to the United Kingdom and Germany. 23.4 See
Egyptian Lotus Air is starting services in summer 2009.,
connecting the city with the city of Hurghada. Kino Europa. - modernist architecture

Kino Urania. - secessionist architecture

23.2.4 By road
Europska Avenija (Europe Avenue). magnicent
Main highways pass nearby to Osijek from Zagreb
secession style buildings
through to Belgrade (Beograd), and the pan-European
corridor Vc from Budapest through to Sarajevo will see a
new motorway added to the Croatian network, construc-
tion to be completed by 2010.
Highway A5 or Slavonika was opened 17.04.2009. It con-
nects Osijek with the A3 highway which runs from Za-
greb to the Serbian border.
Driving to Osijek is easy with good signposting from all
directions, and there is on-street as well as lot parking in
the town.

23.3 Get around

Osijek is divided into two main regions - the upper town
(focusing on the city square, Trg Ante Starcevic), and
Tvra, the preserved fortress town to the east of the town
centre along the Drava River. The whole city has 12 dis-
tricts/blocks: Upper Town, Lower Town, Fortress, New
Town, South 1, South 2, Green Field, Retfala, New Ret-
fala, Industrial District, Tvrdjavica and The Left Coast.
Osijek has a tram system dating back to 1884, and the
three main lines connect the railway station, town square,
Tvra, industrial district, all city borders (tickets can be
bought from the driver, or you can purchase a BUTRA-
universal bus/tram card for unlimited riding). The net-
work is currently being completely overhauled and more
than doubled in length, and the citys old trams are being
modernized. Local buses ll the gaps where the trams
Co-cathedral of St.Peter and St.Paul
do not run and are quite frequent. A map of the local
transport system can be found on the Tourist Boards web-
site. . You can also experience the ride with the oldest Tvra is the self-contained 18th-century Haps-
tram in Europe, which has been renovated for sightsee- burg defensive fortress just east of the city cen-
ing tours. Buses are riding cca every 10-15 minutes in tre. This immaculately-preserved baroque military
the city area, and every 20-25 minutes those which are compound, designed by Maximillian de Gosseau
connecting the settlements around the city (Tenja, Sarvas, in 1721, contains many ne buildings to view by
Visnjevac, Josipovac, Cepin, Vladislavci, Bilje, Darda, day, and at night becomes the hotspot with bars and
Bizovac, Nemetin, Bijelo Brdo). clubs. Luckily there was no damage during the re-
There are numerous bicycling routes all around the city, cent conict to the site, ensuring great viewing and
such as Donji grad-Bilje, Jug II.-Industrijska etvrt, and photos. Tvra is based around the main square,
so on. Trg Svetog Trojstva, and the Museum of Slavonia
is located here with artefacts throughout history as
Taxis are serving the line within the main railway sta- early as Roman times. There are also situated high
tion/airport to the city center. schools, and university of Osijek. On the main
Otherwise, it is fairly straightforward and well-designed square is also Archeological museum, and Music
23.5. DO
school. Fortress is also the place for a good night-life
with numerous bars, discos and restaurants.
Co-Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul This is
the tallest church in Croatia and has a spire of
90m. The Co-Cathedral was planned by Josip Ju-
raj Strossmayer, and the internal stonework is by re-
nouned Austrian sculptor Hauser. The church con-
tains many stunning stained glass windows and a
large, ne-sounding pipe organ constructed by the
Walcher rm of Linz, Austria. Co-Cathedral is of-
ten place for big concerts of classical and religious
music.
Croatian National Theatre, Zupanijska Ul. A
beautiful building designed in 1886 and severely
damaged in the recent conict. A painstaking
restoration has restored it to its former glory, though
shortly afterwards a McDonalds restaurant opened
up on the ground oor. Shows, concerts and opera
are performed weekly.
Promenada is located along the banks of the Drava
River and is a pleasant walk past the marina, cafes,
and parklands. In the Winter port are also many
bars, and the second tallest building in the city, Ho-
tel Osijek (4 star hotel)
Pejacevic Castle is located on the edge of the Upper
Town and on the entrance to Retfala district. Part of
the castle is owned by Little siters of St. Mary, and
they will be delighted to show you the whole castle
and around it. Do not be afraid of the dog in the
yard, which is a pet of the nuns. There are around
10 sisters in the convent, with few candidates.
The Municipal Park of King Petar Kreimir IV
and the Tomislav Park date from the beginning of
the 20th century, and are protected national land-
marks. They are excellent place for a relaxing break
after walking around the city.
Church of St. Roch is a little church in the Upper
Town, and it is the rst Catholic church built after
Ottoman Empire ruled the city.
Church of St. Michael is the second biggest church
in the city, built in high baroque and royal style, by
models from Vienna and Budapest. Priest lives right
next door, and he will proudly take you inside the
church, and explain everything about the past, style,
and some interesting facts about the church. On the
square in the front of the church can be seen traces
where was before over hundred years ago a Muslim
mosque.
Water Gate the only remained entrance to the
Fortress from Habsburg Empire times. Near the
77
Gate is a path to the Fortress walls which are sur-
rounding 3/4 of the Fortress
City Area Administration Palace is situated just
across the street from the Croatian National Theatre,
quite near the main city square.
Zoo, Sjevernodravska obala 1, +385 31 285234,
fax: +385 31 214784, e-mail: info@zoo-osijek.hr.
9AM-5PM, tickets stop being sold at 4PM. The
largest zoo park in Croatia, with lots of species of
animals.
23.5 Do
Visit the Franciscan monastery of St. Cross, situ-
ated in Tvrdja (Fortress). Franciscan monks will be
delighted to show you the beautiful church, with in-
terior decorated in high baroque style. They can
also take you to see the rich monastery library.
Franciscans are very, very polite and they will help
you if you have any questions, not only about the
monastery, also about the city.
There are numerous shops and mall centres across
the city, such as Esseker Centre, Emezetta, Iper-
coop, Kauand, Interspar, Mercator etc. Company
Konzum has shops and market centres all around the
city, and it is really easy to notice them.
Go with a bicycle on a route from Osijek to vil-
lage Bilje (cca 10km from Osijek), and explore the
beauty of golden elds and green forests. NB! Pay
attention on Mine eld signs, and do not go in the
forests on your own.
Visit numerous festivals in the city: Osijek Cul-
tural Summer; Autumn in Tvrdja; Osijek Beer Fes-
tival; UFO - Urban Fest Osijek; Kristfest; Festival
of Tamburitza music
If you would like to see some excellent folk dance
shows, there are two very good folk ensembles hold-
ing concerts around not only the city and coun-
try, also in the world. HKUD Osijek 1862. and
HKUD Zeljeznicar are one of the best folk en-
sembles in the country.
Visit the open market place, right in the centre of
the city. Explore the thrilling feeling while walk-
ing through a mass of people, sounds of oers to
buy something, two grandmas arguing whose stu
is more better, sexier or with high quality.
Visit the factory of chocolate Kandit which is one
of the biggest in the country, and it is well known
for the rich and full taste of candies and chocolate
78
In summer time, refreshment can be found in the
open-air swimming pools on a river beach called Co-
pacabana, or Kopika. And the best thing is, it is free.
If you prefer closed swimming pools, there are also
City pools, in the southern district of the city.
Osijek has one of the best night-life in the country. or kulen (spicy sausages). Going out to eat in restaurants
Discos and bars are open during the day and night. in Osijek is often far better value than in other large Croa-
23.6 Buy
Handmade ethno souvenirs can be bought in a little
shop Rukotvorine not far from the Croatian Na-
tional Theatre. Antiquity shops and souvenirs shops
are all around the city
There are several traditional instrument shops
around the city
Traditional table cloths can be found on the city mar-
ket for a very low and reasonable price
CD and computer shops are also situated around the
city
Clothes and shoes can be both in numerous shops
around the city. For example: Mango, Castello,
S.Oliver, WGW, New Yorker, Beneton, Armani,
Esseker Centre, NAMA, and several underground
shops, under the main city square
Fresh and delicious food can be found on every
open-air market place
23.7 Eat
Numerous pizzerias all around the city. Ones with a
special atmosphere are El Paso in the Winter Port,
and Galija on the upper coast of the river Drava
Traditional food restaurants are situated mostly in
the Fortress
Fresh bread and burek can be bought in every sin-
gle bakery. Every single street has at least one bak-
ery
Leganini, Sv. L.B. Mandia 31, 31000 Osijek,
+385-31 29 74 99. Open 08:00-22:00, Sunday:
Closed. Lega means pal in the Osijek dialect.
The motto of this friendly caf is Try something
new, meaning a sandwich wrap instead of evapi
or pljeskavica. The at bread is made to order, then
wrapped around your choice of meats, sauces and
fresh vegetables. Located on the way into town on
the route from akovo highway, this is a good place
for a quick bite if youre hungry after a long drive.
They also deliver.
CHAPTER 23. OSIJEK
The specialty of Slavonia is undoubtably food.
With culinary inuences from all directions, and a love
of spicy food, Osijek has many great restaurants serving
traditional Croatian cuisine. Two specialties of the area
include riblji paprikas (sh stew with hand-made noodles)
tian cities, though for those who insist on self-catering
there is a supermarket and an open-air market between
the town square and railway station.
23.8 Drink
Matrix Bar (Fortress)
Q Club (Fortress)
Strossmayer (Strossmayer Street)
Kavana Waldinger (Zupanijska Street)
Patrick Pub (Fortress)
Luna (Fortress)
Big Ben (Fortress)
Oxygen bar
S.Co.Bar formerly known as famous Voodoo bar
Old Bridge Pub (Fortress)
Bastion (Fortress)
Vinoteka Vinita (Strossmayer Street)
Osijek has the oldest beer brewery in Croatia, which
was founded in year 1687. Brewery is producing not
only beer, but also non-alcoholic drinks.
Price of one beer is cca 1.5-1.75 Euro (10-13 kuna)
per bottle (0.5l). In every bar is a big menu of beers,
domestic and imported ones.
Bars and discos serve various drinks, from wines,
whiskeys, traditional rakija, cocktails and etc.
No age limit for bars or discos. Only for night-clubs
23.9 Sleep
Hotel Drava, I.F.Gundulia 25a 31000, Osijek,
+385 31 250-500.
Hotel Osijek, amaka 4, +385 31 230 333, fax:
+385 31 230 444, e-mail: info@hotelosijek.hr. Ho-
tel Osijek has got 140 rooms, and 7 apartments. The
hotel is located on the river bank of the Drava river
in the center of the city.
23.10. GO NEXT 79

Hotel Waldinger, upanijska ul. 8, Tel: +385

31 250 450 (Fax: +385 31 250 453, E-mail:
info@waldinger.hr) .

Hotel Central, Trg A. Starevia 6, +385 31 283

399, fax: +385 31 283 891, e-mail: info@hotel-
central-os.hr. Hotel Central is located at the central
square of the city.

Zoo Hotel, Tvravica, +385 31 22 99 22,

fax: +385 31 22 99 11, e-mail: zoo-hotel@zoo-
hotel.com. As stated by the name the Zoo Hotel is
located at the Osijek Zoo.

Hotel Villa Ariston, Kaieva 6, +385 Kopaki Rit

31 251-351, fax: +385 31 251-350, e-mail:
ariston.d.o.o@os.t-com.hr. Hotel Ariston is located
The town of Vukovar is less than an hour away and
close to the bus and railwaystation.
buses leave very regularly (almost every hour, 7 days
a week). This town was completely blown up in the
Hotel Villa Sveti Rok, +385 31 310 490, fax:
recent conict due to being on the border of Croatia
+385 31 310 499. Sv. Roka 13.
and Serbia and having a mixed-ethnic population,
and provides the visitor with a fascinating (if not
Hotel Mursa, B. Kaia 2/a, +385 31 207 640.
sobering) view on the war.
Hotel Millenium, Kralja Petra Svacica 12, +385 31
53 13 30 akovo and its enormous Cathedral are a half-hour
to the south of Osijek. Besides the beautiful Cathe-
Hotel Silver, Martina Divalta 84, +385 31 58 25 35 dral which completely dominates the town, there are
Lipizzaner horses being trained just on the edge of
Guesthouse Maksimilian, Franjevacka the city (a great mornings viewing), and every year
12 - Fortress/Tvrdja, +385 31 497 567, in July is the annual folk and embroidery festival
www.maksimilian.hr. Good value for the price. which attracts visitors from far and wide.

Pansion Regina, Zupanijska 6, Osijek - City The Kopaki Rit is the biggest natural wetlands in
Centre, Tel. +385 31 202 203 Fax. +385 31 202 Europe and the birdlife is spectacular. This enor-
030 mous nature park, located around 15km north of
Osijek where the Danube and Drava rivers ow into
Youth Hostel Tufna, Franje Kuhaa 10/I, one another, is a great day out in the countryside -
though bring some insect repellent as the mosquitos
1 slavonika, postanska 26,josipovac, +385 95 do bite!! There is no public transport to the park, so
88 44 111, e-mail: slavonikasmjestaj@gmail.com. take the local bus to Bilje and its a 2-3km walk.
Rent cheap whole house with many free services:
Bikes y rods computer in every room wi in-
ternet table-tenis darts solar shower chairs for sun
grill (broiler, kettle, spit) parasol large table for a
terrace various board games (chess, cards, jumbo,
monopoly ...) vegetables (gratis basket ecologically
grown vegetables from our greenhouses, in season)
Badminton...

23.10 Go next
There are natural thermal spas just to the west of
Osijek in the town of Bizovac. They provide much
better value than spas closer to Zagreb or Varazdin,
and see fewer tourists. The spa is easily accessible
by train or bus.
Chapter 24

idski Banovci

The only problem is considerable unemployment and

poverty of the villagers. Reason is still visible discrim-
ination of Serbian minority by the regional authorities.
However, as time goes on, things are slowly going in a
positive direction.
Banovci is one of the few places in Croatia that has re-
tained its street names from the period of communist Yu-
goslavia. This was done at the express request of the vil-
lagers. For this reason, the name of the main street still
bears the name of former Yugoslav President Josip Broz
Tito, while other streets are named by prominent mem-
bers of the anti-fascist movement during World War II.
The best time to visit is spring when climatic conditions
are favorable. Summer in this area have a big prob-
lem with mosquitoes, which do not transmit diseases, but
idski Banovci is a small village in Syrmia (eastern they are real temptations. The doctor and mobile library
Croatia), 10 miles south of the Danube River and near comes to Banovci once a week. Zip code of village is 32
the border with Serbia. Today most of the population are 247, mail order just in business days.
Serbian members of the Orthodox faith. A sizable Ger-
man minority that lived in the village before World War II
mostly moved to Austria at the end of the war. Here you
still can experience the traditional lifestyle of the Serbian
minority in Croatia which has been maintained despite
the modern way of life.
24.2 Get in

24.1 Understand Banovci is well connected with regional centers.

Plane. Through the international airport Nikola Tesla
Every year on the Orthodox Christmas Eve (January 6), in Belgrade (Serbia) and continue with bus (2 hours), or
residents in the churchyard fallen bonre. In this occa- through regional airport in Osijek (Croatia) and continue
sion locals takes oak tree from the surrounding and make with bus (1 hour).
the ritual re. These nights the locals remember their old Train. Banovci is on the railway line between Zagreb
Slavic religion and symbolically conrm Christianity.
and Belgrade, and all local trains stop at the local railway
In the rest part of year, villagers are organized around the station. International trains stop at 8 km away Tovarnik
celebration of New Years, Womens Day, the day labor, (Croatia) or 20 km away Vinkovci (Croatia). Railways is
on the occasion of the end of the school year, important the main route between Western Europe and the Middle
religious holidays etc. East.
There are active and the football club, pensioners club, the Bus. Banovci are connected by direct lines with
Protestant community and the Womens Caucus, which Vinkovci, Vukovar, Osijek, Belgrade and id.
also periodically organizes public events. Car. Banovci is ten miles north of highway Zagreb-
What describes life in Banovci it might be described as Belgrade. Regional roads have been repaired and are in
living on a human scale. People are extremely friendly good condition. Some local roads are not in the best con-
and hospitable. Crime can be said not to exist in Banovci. dition.

80
24.11. GO NEXT 81

24.3 Get around

Bicycle. You can visit nearby places on a bike. If you
don't bring your own bike, you can always ask a local to
lend one to you. He will probably give you a bike if you
convince him of your good intentions.
By foot. You can walk to two nearby villages that are
within the 0.5 and 1 mile.

24.4 See
The baroque Orthodox church dedicated to St. Petka.
The church was built in the nineteenth century and was
recently restored. Best time to visit is for Sunday morning
worship when the church will surely be open. The church
is open for all important saints, and can be opened at
any other time by arrangement with the priest in id town
(Serbia).
There is an old mill, old local railway station, the old rail-
way route and houses built in traditional Pannonian style.

24.5 Do

24.6 Buy
There is only one shop that is satisfactory equipped.

24.7 Eat
Try dierent kinds of dried pork, homemade cakes and
organically grown fruits and vegetables freshly picked.
You should try an alcoholic plum brandy called Rakija.
Search for Balkan specialties such as pies, cheese, meat,
potatoes, baklava, sarma.

24.8 Drink

24.9 Sleep
Banovci not a tourist destination and hotel accommoda-
tion can be found only in the surrounding towns.

24.10 Connect

24.11 Go next
Chapter 25

Slavonski Brod

Slavonski Brod is a city in Slavonia located on the north Subotica (Serbia) and many cities in Bosnia. Direct lines
bank of the Sava river. Its sister city Bosanski Brod lies are also available to and from many German, Swiss and
on the south bank, over the State border in Bosnia and Austrian cities: Munich, Vienna, Graz, Zurich (daily),
Herzegovina. Stuttgart, Cologne, Dsseldorf (twice a week). Buses are
operated by Croatian bus companies and are reasonably
reliable.
25.1 Get in
25.1.4 By plane
25.1.1 By car
Slavonski Brod is the largest city in Croatia without an
Slavonski Brod lies along the A3 motorway (Autocesta) international airport. The closest major airports are Za-
Zagreb-Slavonski Brod-Belgrade, which has been reno- greb and Belgrade. Osijek airport (approx. 100 km
vated which is an important route between South-East- away) operates seasonal ights by Croatia airlines to Split
and Western Europe. The Autocesta is a toll-road and Dubrovnik and recently, German Wings ights from
Other roads connect city to Pcs (Hungary), Osijek and Cologne/Bonn are also scheduled.
Sarajevo.
25.1.5 By boat
Hitch-hiking
Although river Sava is suitable for sailing, it is currently
You can hitch-hike onto the highway at the gas stations only used for freight trac. However, ambitious projects
on either side of the road in Brod or before the toll booth. are under way which would include tourist boats from
other cities on the Sava river.

25.1.2 By train
From Zagreb: Trains run several times per day. The or-
dinary fast train travels about 2 hours 30 minutes. Tilting
Intercity train Slavonia is one of the best trains in Croatia,
with seats of European standards, travels slightly over 2
hours and complimentary coee is served on board. The
dierence in price compared to a regular intercity train
is negligible (approx. 7 kunas = 1 euro), but the seats are
often hard to get in the last minute on weekends. The
passenger trains also run several times a day, but travel
signicantly longer and are not reliable.
From Belgrade: Direct lines from Belgrade are available
(travel time approx. 3,5 hours). However, there is an
option of changing trains at Vinkovci.
25.1.3 By bus
Several services operate to Slavonski Brod from any ma-
jor Croatian city, as well as from Belgrade, Novi Sad,
25.2 Get around
25.3 See
The Franciscan Monastery
The Brod Fortress
25.4 Do
Poloj is a sand beach on the Sava river, situated
about 5-10 minutes drive from the city center. Lo-
cals swim in the river, but it is an imperative to re-
main cautious while being in the river, as this is a
large and fast river. Greatest caution is advised to
people who have no experience with swimming in
rivers.The beach was not used for many years dur-
ing and after the war and is now being renovated.

82
25.9. GO NEXT 83

The ambitious plan includes many sport grounds, a and Osijek, famous for one of the largest and most beauti-
restaurant and a bar. ful cathedrals in South Central Europe. Vinkovci, Vuko-
var - twin cities north-east of Slavonski Brod. Papuk - a
Motorijada (Motor fest) is an annual bikers gather- hill 60 km nothwest of Slavonski Brod, a nature park and
ing which takes place on a weekend around the day a popular recreational destination. Kopaki Rit - a nature
of the city (15th May). The fest lasts for two nights park famous for its bird life located at the conuence of
(Friday and Saturday) and gathers many biker clubs Drava and Danube rivers. -
from Croatia, Bosnia and other European countries.
The line-up consists of one very popular Croatian
rock band per night and a number of Croatian demo
bands. The accompanying events include a mix of
international activities (such as mechanical bull rid-
ing) with a feel of Slavonian village gathering (tents
with beer and food). The event takes place on Poloj,
a beach on the Save river.

Take a walk in the hills of Vinogorje, just north of

the Autocesta, for example to Sjeme Panj Umjetnost
ivot.

25.5 Buy

25.6 Eat

25.7 Drink
Even though it is not a 7-day-per-week party destination,
city scene becomes wild and vibrant on a clear Saturday,
especially during holidays. The reason is a large num-
ber of students from Zagreb and Osijek and a large num-
ber of people who emigrated from city, who regularly re-
turn to city for holidays. Currently the most popular clubs
include Iguana, Alfa and Navigator, which play modern
clubbing music and oer a range of drinks at arguably
the lowest prices found in a major city in Croatia. For
instance, a glass of juice-vodka would cost approx. 2 eu-
ros in Slavonski Brod and almost 4 in a club in Zagreb or
on the Adriatic. Clubs usually work to 3 am, when the
crowds usually move to Rupa (a rock club), Pivnica or
Cezar. Other clubs are also available and their popularity
varies. It is best to ask any young person in the street on
a Saturday night about in places at the moment.
Slavonski Brod also hosts two large turbo folk clubs:
Navalis and Cezar (folk section).

25.8 Sleep

25.9 Go next
Osijek - the largest city in the Slavonia region is a beau-
tiful old city and an important cultural centre in Croatia.
akovo - a smaller city half way between Slavonski Brod
Chapter 26

Vukovar

Vukovar, The Hero Town is a city in Slavonia (eastern
Croatia) along the Danube River. Although the city has
a long cultural history, today it is most noted for its fate
during the war in the early 1990s in the former Yugoslavia
and often called The Hero Town. It has been last and
the only town in the Europe completely devastated since
WWII. The Siege of Vukovar is famous among military
analysts as 2,000 self-organized Croatian civilians and
volunteers from all around the Croatia defended the town
for 3 months against 40,000 heavy armed Serbian soldiers
and 110 tanks, resulting in a pyrrhic Serbian victory. The
city was defended up to the last street and therefore it was
a modern model of a Stalingrad battle.
around 3 miles north from the main area of Vukovar.
There is a daily direct train to Zagreb at 3PM from Za-
greb Central Station and returns 6AM from Vukovar.
By bicycle: Vukovar lies on the EuroVelo VI route be-
tween Osijek and Ilok.
By car: Highways lead to Vukovar from all directions.
26.3 Get around
The town is best explored on foot. All the main areas of
interest are within a short walk of each other.

26.1 Understand 26.4 See

The city has long had a highly mixed population of dier- The war damage is still very obvious throughout most of
ent ethnicities, including large numbers of ethnic Croats the city.
and Serbs. As a result it suered greatly during the war Hospital: The hospital in Vukovar is the same one used
between the Croats and the Serb-dominated Yugoslav during the siege of the city. Make sure to act politely and
National Army in the early 1990s. The three-month siege respectfully because after the Fall of Vukovar, the Ser-
of the city in 1991 and the subsequent occupation by bian army dragged all wounded people (including chil-
Serbia destroyed or damaged much of the citys infras- dren) and massacred them at the Ovara site, making
tructure and resulted in a massacre of Croatian popula- this building a living UN critic as UN forces located out-
tion. As a result, it is dicult to nd employment, and side the hospital did nothing to prevent it. The above-
much of the population has left; around 30,000 still re- ground portion of the hospital has been restored into a
main. Those who remain in the city live together nonvi- typical modern facility, but the basement area (which was
olently, although there is still animosity between ethnic the only part of the hospital used during the siege due to
groups. Today, it`s a living war and massacre monument. the continuous shelling of the above-ground parts of the
hospital) has been made into a museum. The museum is
very well-designed and gives a chilling feel of what the
26.2 Get in hospital was like during the siege. While you're in the
hospital, if you're lucky you may see Dr. Vesna Bosanac,
who was the hospital director during the war and still
Consider traveling to Osijek by train or air, then proceed- works there and is regarded as something of a national
ing to Vukovar (an hours drive). hero in Croatia because she saved many lives.
By bus: The city has direct bus connections with Osijek Tank Graveyard Street: A location of one of a greatest
(approximately every hour), Zagreb (numerous times a battles in Europe. In the time of a siege Serbian army,
day), Ilok and Vinkovci, and daily to Sombor and Novi equipped with 110 tanks tried a breakthrough with tanks
Sad in Vojvodina (Serbia). There are also seasonal buses against a lightly armed Croatians led by national hero
to the Dalmatian coast and cities in Germany. Blago Zadro, but it resulted in a greatest tank destruction
By train: Infrequent trains operate to Vukovar from site ever, with tanks mostly being destroyed on many un-
Osijek and Vinkovci. The station, Borovo-naselje, is conventional ways . Today, although rebuilt it still gives

84
26.6. BUY 85

an unexplaineable chilling feel of a battle, and one tank 26.6 Buy

is left as a memorial.
Museum: The museum in Vukovar placed in the baroque 26.7 Eat
Eltz castle, is horribly damaged from the war, but it is still
in use, and there are plans to reconstruct the museum in
2009. Aside from the war damage, the museum has var- Local specialities are based around smoked pork meat
ious exhibits to see. Many of the pieces are archaeolog- and freshwater sh.
ical artifacts, including a right-footed ceramic shoe from Smoked meat : Be sure to try unka (smoked ham), kulen
several thousand years ago (Vuedol culture) that the mu- and vargl (check Wikipedia for details).
seum sta seem to be particularly proud of. The museum
Fish dishes : The Danube area in Croatia has very strong
also periodically exhibits paintings from the Bauer col-
tradition in shing and sh based dishes. Be sure to try
lection which is considered one of the more signicant
the spicy sh soup which is very common in Slavonia. But
collections of Croatian modern art.
also try to get your hands on some smoked catsh stakes
Ovara massacre site: The Ovara eld is a short drive or arani u raljama (carp baked in wooden forks over
from the main area of Vukovar. After the fall of the city an open ame) which are more traditional to the Danube
to the Serb-dominated Yugoslav National Army, the Serb subregion of Slavonia and Sriem.
soldiers gathered 200 of the hospitals doctors and injured
Other dishes : obanac and paprika (meat stews)
patients and massacred them in the Ovara eld. Today
at the massacre site there is a memorial and a nearby mu- Local cuisine tends to be very spicy due to extensive use of
seum. red paprika, so if you don't like hot food ask in restaurants
to make your food less spicy.
Cemetery: The cemetery has the graves of many who
died during and after the siege. At the center of the Cakes and sweets : Theres a funny thing called poderane
cemetery is a memorial statue. The statue has a symbolic gae (Torn underpants) which are made from pancake-
ame at its center, and the stones present the image of the like dough and are sweetened with sugar or honey. There
Christian cross facing outward in all directions. While are numerous cakes and pies indigenous for the region but
walking among the graves, there are several interesting they can rarely be found in restaurants. Its best to ask
things to consider: Graves labeled 'Hravtski Branitelj' are the locals, people are very friendly and very hedonistic in
the graves of untrained volunteers who helped defend the regards to food so they might just invite you for a treat.
city. People who died after November 18 were usually
tortured to death. There are also many graves where you
can see that an entire family died on the same day. 26.8 Drink
Crkva Sv. Filipa i Jakova: This is the main Catholic
cathedral in the city. It is the 3rd longest church in Croa- . Try the local beer, Vukovarsko pivo.
tia and also has the 3rd most signicant library in Croatia
with several books (incanabulae) from the 15th century.
It was horribly damaged during the war. There have been 26.9 Sleep
slight reconstructions since the war (Namely, a simple
roof was added in order to keep out the rain. The church There are hotels in Vukovar; however, they are somewhat
also has a new organ.), although the cathedral is gener- expensive. You may choose to visit Vukovar as a day trip
ally the same as it was in 1998. The walls of the church and then sleep in a nearby city such as Osijek.
still bear many holes from mortar shells and grenades, and
there is still grati that was left by the Serb soldiers, in-
cluding images of Orthodox Christian crosses and a slo-
gan that translates into English as God forgives. Serbs 26.10 Go next
don't. If you have extra time and money, you may want
to hire a Croatian translator and arrange a visit with the Osijek and Novi Sad are about an hours travel away.
priest, as he is extremely knowledgeable about Vukovar,
the siege, and what occurred at the cathedral during the
siege. As it is placed on a hill over the Vukovar centre it
has a great lookout over the city and the Danube river.

26.5 Do
Walk the streets. Its as moving as visiting any war mu-
seum!
Chapter 27

Dalmatia

Dalmatia is the southern coastal region of Croatia on the

Adriatic Sea.

27.1 Regions
Northern Dalmatia lots of small islands and deep,
connected inland, comprising the counties of Zadar
and Sibenik-Knin

Split-Dalmatia the county of central Dalmatia,

with several bigger islands, mountain ranges close
to the coast, and rivieras such as Makarska Riviera,
with some sandy beaches in addition to long pebbly
beaches Lakes in Dalmatia

Dubrovnik-Neretva the county of southern Dal-

Bra
matia, a narrow strip of land around Dubrovnik,
with weak connection to inland (Herzegovina, in an- Hvar
other country Bosnia and Herzegovina)
Korula
Mljet
27.2 Cities
Murter
Dubrovnik historic Pearl of the Adriatic, one Pasman
of the tourist highlights of the Mediterranean
Vis
Makarska the main beach resort town on the
Makarska Riviera
27.4 Understand
Omi old city

ibenik city with famous cathedral Many inhabitants of Dalmatia are zealous Catholics and
they don't mind to brag. So don't be surprised if out of
Split historic city with famous centre and Roman the blue someone is waving a crucix in your face talking
palace about eternal res etc.
Trogir historic town and harbour

Zadar ancient city with Medieval churches and 27.5 Get in

Roman remains
Most travelers come in through highway A1 Zagreb-Split-
Ravca (next to Ploce and heading Dubrovnik). The high-
27.3 Other destinations way is modern, fast and safe.
Split and Dubrovnik have international airports and sea-
Islands: ports.

86
27.12. GO NEXT 87

27.6 Get around

27.7 See
Dogs called Dalmatians

27.8 Do
Dalmatia Trekking (Unique adventure and activ-
ity holiday agency specializing in walking, trekking,
photographic holidays in Dalmatia - Croatia), Gun-
dulieva 22, Split Croatia, +385958173156. Ex-
plore Croatian islands, mountains and coastline.
Full service - Professional guides - Culinary Special-
ities

Active Holidays d.o.o (Activity and adventure travel

expert in Croatia, since 1989), Knezova Kacica
Omis. First travel agency specialized in activity
travel. Dierent travel options that will satisfy all
age groups.
Meridien Ten, Obala Ivana Zajca 7, 21000 Split,
+38521388951. Bike and active travel. Rent a
bike or take on of our self guided bike tours and
travel Dalmatian coast on bike. Great hybrid, road
and tandem bikes available.

27.9 Eat

27.10 Drink

27.11 Stay safe

27.12 Go next
Chapter 28

Krka National Park

Krka National Park is one of the Croatian national 28.1.1 History

parks, named after the river Krka that it encloses.
Krka National Park is the seventh national park in Croatia
and was proclaimed a national park in 1985.
28.1 Understand
28.1.2 Landscape

28.1.3 Flora

The Krka National Park belongs to the Southern Eu-

ropean (Mediterranean and sub-Mediterranean) region.
Due to its special position and the mosaic distribution of
various types of habitats, it is characterized by exception-
ally rich and varied ora and fauna. Eight hundred and
sixty species and subspecies of plants have been identied
within the territory of the Krka National Park, including
several endemic Illyrian-Adriatic species.

Krka river
28.1.4 Fauna

Eighteen species of sh inhabit the Krka River, among

which ten are endemic, making the Krka a natural land-
mark of the highest category. Brown trout and Dalmatian
Barbelgudgeon are a couple of sh that can be found in
the ecosystem. Patches of reeds, lakes formed along part
of the river and swamped meadows abound in amphibians
and birds, while thickets and stone quarries are home to
reptiles.
The abundance of various species of birds (222), the
structure of the bird communities and the great signi-
cance of the Krka for spring and autumn migrations make
it among the ornithologically most valuable regions of Eu-
rope. There are numerous carnivorous birds in the area,
View towards the former hydroelectric power plant notable ones are: Osprey, Short-toed Eagle, Golden Ea-
gle, Bonellis Eagle, Lanner Falcon and the Peregrine Fal-
The park is located along the middle-lower course of the con. Other birds of interest are Eurasian Eagle-owl, Eu-
Krka River in central Dalmatia, in ibenik-Knin county, ropean Bee-eater and Grion Vulture.
downstream Miljevci area, and just a few kilometers Among the mammals, there are 18 species of bats, which
northeast of the city of ibenik. It was formed to protect are generally endangered or near extinction in the rest of
the Krka River and is intended primarily for scientic, Europe, Long-ngered Bat, the Daubentons Bat, and the
cultural, educational, recreational, and tourism activities. threatened European Otter.

88
28.3. FEES/PERMITS 89

28.1.5 Climate provides a shuttle service from there down to the wa-
terfalls at Skradinski buk. Out of season cars are al-
lowed to descend down up to the parking lot near the
28.2 Get in Skradinski buk. (updated Oct 2016)

1 Roki slap. For a waterfall and tripper boats

to Krka monastery, and fortresses of Troenj and
Neven. (updated Sep 2016)

1 Burnum. For the archeological site of Burnum.

(updated Sep 2016)

1 Kistanje. For Krka Monastery and tripper boats

to Roki slap waterfall and fortresses of Troenj and
Neven. (updated Sep 2016)
The Krka river and a bridge at the parks border

28.3 Fees/Permits
28.2.1 By bus
1 Nacionalni park Krka (Krka National Park),
1 Skradin (by intercity buses from ibenik, Zadar, ibenska ulica, Skradin. Jun-Aug 08:00-20:00;
Split, Zagreb (some also make a stop at the Plitvice May, Sep 08:00-19:00; Apr, 1-15 Oct 08:00-18:00;
Lakes National Park) or by regional buses from Mar, 15-31 Oct 09:00-17:00; Nov-Feb 09:00-
ibenik (see for Skradin in upanijski vozni red 16:00;. Price Jul-Aug 150 HRK; Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct
schedules), then take a parks ferry). Perhaps thats 110 HRK; Nov-Mar 30 HRK. (updated Sep 2016)
a better option than Lozovac as Skradin itself is a
nice-looking town and a trip to the park will include
a short journey by a ferry. (updated Oct 2016) 28.4 Get around
Lozovac (by a city (zone II) and regional buses from
ibenik. Its worth checking if the bus stops right at 28.4.1 On foot
the parks entrance otherwise you'd need to walk 1.5
km from the main road to there). NB: out of season The core of the park, Skradinski buk in particular, is easy
there is no public transportation from Lozovac down to be explored on foot.
to the parks waterfalls. (updated Oct 2016)
28.4.2 By boat
28.2.2 By car
1 Skradin ferry. Apr-Oct; Mar-Nov depends on
weather. Parks ferries run between town of Skradin
and the pier at the 1 Skradinski buk entrance. The
boats run every hour from 08:00 (09:00 late autumn
or early spring) till 18:00 in summer (nishing ear-
lier other times). Returns are scheduled at 30 min.
past every hour. The last departure from Skradinski
buk is 1.5 hour later than the last boat from Skradin.
Free no ticket is required. (updated Sep 2016)

Tripper boats to Visovac, Roki slap, Krka

monastery and the Troenj fortress (see #Boat trips).

Boats Stinice - Visovac - Remeti (see #Boat trips).

Remains of a Roman amphitheatre at Burnum

28.4.3 By bus
1 Lozovac. The main entrance for tourist groups Shuttle bus between Lozovac entrance (see above)
and individuals traveling by car. In season the park and Skradinski buk (see below).
90 CHAPTER 28. KRKA NATIONAL PARK

28.5 See 28.6 Do

Skradinski buk
Visovac island

1 Swim. In the lower lake at the Skradinski buk.

Despite being ocially designated swimming area
it doesn't have anything arranged for that: no chang-
ing booths, nothing to safe go down, so be prepared.
Otherwise thats apparently a wonderful experience.
NB: Swimming only is allowed at this designated
place. (updated Sep 2016)
Hike the trails
Cycle the cycling trails, but bear in mind that cycling
is not permitted on the walking trails

Map of the Skradinski buk site

28.6.1 Boat trips

1 Skradinski buk (Skradin waterfall). Considered

the major attraction of the park. It is a pleasant cas-
cade of lakes and waterfalls which is close to the
both main entrances. (updated Sep 2016)

1 Visovac (by a trip boat from Skradinski buk, also

by boat from nearby villages Stinice and Remeti).
Its a beautiful island with a Franciscan monastery on
it. The monastery is a place of pilgrimage. (updated
Sep 2016)

1 Roki slap (waterfall cascade). (updated Sep

2016)

1 Oziana peina (cave) (close to Roki slap). (up-

dated Sep 2016)

1 Manastir Krka (Krka Monastery) (close to village

of Kistanje). (updated Sep 2016)

1 Burnum archaeological site. Remains of Roman Roki Slap (waterfall)

amphitheatre and some other excavations. (updated
Sep 2016) Apr-Oct only:

1 Burnum - Manojlovac waterfalls. (updated Sep Skradinski buk Visovac island. 2 hours, includ-
2016) ing 1/2 hour at Visovac 100 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)
28.11. STAY SAFE 91

Skradinski buk Visovac island Roki slap. 4 28.11 Stay safe

hours, including 1/2 hour at Visovac, 1 hour sight-
seeing of Roki slap 130 Kn. (updated Sep 2016) Its prohibited to wander and swim in the river. Bbesides
its dangerous per se it also destroys fragile travertine (cal-
Stinice Visovac. Mo-Sa 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, cium carbonate) structures at the rivers bottom and wa-
13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00; Su 9:30, 10:00, 10:30, terfalls rapids.
12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00. 35 min, Visovac (30
min) 50 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)
28.12 Go next
Remeti Visovac. Mo-Sa 9:45, 10:45, 11:45,
12:45, 13:45, 14:45, 15:45; Su 9:45, 10:15, 10:45,
12:15, 13:15, 14:15, 15:15. 35 min, Visovac (30
min) 50 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

Roki slap - Krka monastery - Troenj - Neven.

2.5 hours, Krka monastery (30 min) and view from
the boat of Troenj and Neven fortresses. 100 Kn.
(updated Sep 2016)

28.7 Buy
Yachts on the river Krka on their way towards ibenik after vis-
Souvenir shops at the both sides of Skradinski buk and at iting the park
the entrance at Lozovac.

ibenik
28.8 Eat Knin

1 Buet Kalikua (at the south side of Skradinski And nearby towns:
buk waterfalls). The location is very touristy. Qual-
ity of food and service is rather moderate, but the Scradin - see the local tourist oce for further in-
setting is magnicent: at the site of an old mill next formation
to a small waterfall which used to feed the mill. (up-
dated Oct 2016) Drni

1 Buet Stari mlin (Next to Skradinski buk en-

trance). (updated Oct 2016)

1 Kristijan agrotourism (close to the boat pier

at Roki Slap). (updated Oct 2016)

28.9 Drink
There is no nightlife in the park.

28.10 Sleep
There is no accommodation inside the park, but there
are plenty of options for accommodation in the town of
Skradin and village of Lozovac, and there is also a hotel
close to the Roki slap.
Chapter 29

Plitvice National Park

Turquoise-colored lakes

Nacionalni park Plitvika jezera (The Plitvice Lakes

National Park) in Croatia is considered to be one of the
most beautiful natural sights in Europe. Due to its beauty
and signicance, this system of 16 interlinked lakes and
a large forest complex around it were set aside as a na-
tional park in 1949. In 1979 the park was inscribed on
the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Large Water Fall, near Lower Lakes

29.1.1 History

Humans have inhabited the Plitvice Lakes area for thou-

sands of years. It has been settled in turn by Illyri-
ans, Thracians, Celts, Japods, Romans, Avars, Slavs and
Turks. In 1528 the area fell to the Ottomans before be-
ing retaken by the Austrian Empire 150 years later. The
Austrians subsequently incorporated it into their Military
Frontier and, in addition to the native Croats who already
Galovac Lake inhabited the region, Serbs who had ed Ottoman repres-
sion settled there.[citation needed]
The Plitvice Lakes had became a major tourist attraction
in the late 19th century. The rst hotel was built there
29.1 Understand in 1896, and as early as 1893 it already had a conserva-
tion committee - the predecessor of todays national park

92
29.1. UNDERSTAND 93

authority. In 1949 the communist government of Yu- distinctive feature. The lakes are separated by natural
goslavia nationalized the lakes and made them a national dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of
park. The park was inscribed on the UNESCO World moss, algae and bacteria. The encrusted plants and bac-
Heritage List in 1979 in recognition of its outstanding teria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine
natural beauty, and the undisturbed production of traver- barriers which grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year.
tine (tu) through chemical and biological action. The lakes are renowned for their distinctive colours, rang-
The park soon became one of Yugoslavias most popular ing from azure to green, grey or blue. The colours change
tourist attractions. However, in March 1991 it became constantly depending on the quantity of minerals or or-
the scene of the Plitvice Lakes incident - the rst armed ganisms in the water and the angle of sunlight.
confrontation of the Croatian War of Independence that The lakes are divided into the 12 Upper Lakes (Gornja
resulted in fatalities. The park was held by forces of the jezera) and the four Lower Lakes.
Republic of Serbian Krajina during the conict and suf-
fered some damage in the process, with hotels and other
facilities being used as barracks. At auto-camp Grabo- 29.1.3 Flora and fauna
vac there was massacre of civilians (three children) by the
Yugoslav Army in September of 1991[1]. It was retaken The Plitvice Lakes national park is heavily forested,
by the Croatian Army in August 1995 during Operation mainly with beech, spruce, and r trees, and features a
Storm, which ended the Croatian war. mixture of Alpine and Mediterranean vegetation. It has
The war led UNESCO to add the park to its List of World a notably wide variety of plant communities, due to its
Heritage in Danger. Due to the economic importance of range of microclimates, diering soils and varying levels
the park, the Croatian government made it a priority for of altitude.
its de-mining eorts, and in December 1998 UNESCO The area is also home to an extremely wide variety of an-
recognised the parks newly mine-free status by remov- imal and bird species. Rare fauna such as the European
ing it from the list of endangered sites. However, the sur- brown bear, wolf, eagle, owl, lynx, wild cat and capercail-
rounding Plitvice municipality outside the park boundary lie can be found there, along with many more common
still has some problems with mine contamination. species. At least 126 species of birds have been recorded
there, of which 70 have been recorded as breeding there.

29.1.2 Landscape
29.1.4 Climate

Walkway leading into the forest

The lakes are situated on the eponymous Plitvice plateau, Fish in Galovac Lake
between the mountains of Lika Pljeevica (Gornja
Pljeevica peak 1,640 m), Mala Kapela (Seliki Vrh peak The area knows a mountainous land climate, with hot
at 1,280 m) and Medveak (884 m). The sixteen lakes summers and cold winters. Although generally cooler
are separated into an upper and lower cluster formed by than coastal Croatia because of its altitude, sunny days
runo from the mountains, descending from an altitude in summer get very hot with temperatures up to 35C.
of 636 m to 503 m over a distance of some eight km, As there are few opportunities to buy refreshments in the
aligned in a south-north direction. The lakes collectively park, visitors should bring plenty of water along for re-
cover an area of about two km, with the water exiting hydration. In the evening, occasional thunderstorms can
from the lowest lake to form the Korana River. unleash large amounts of rain in a short time, so make
The Plitvice Lakes lie in a basin of karstic rock, mainly sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast to avoid be-
dolomite and limestone, which has given rise to their most ing surprised by heavy rain in the absence of shelter. The
94 CHAPTER 29. PLITVICE NATIONAL PARK

many calm streams in the park may quickly transform into Zadar bus at 5pm, a taxi driver will be waiting 15 minutes
wild water torrents, so stay away from the water in case early to attract customers, and when arriving at Zadar, if
of heavy rain. your are going to take the ferry, the driver might leave
In winter, heavy snowfall can be expected, enabling the you near the pier.
Mukinje Ski Resort to operate from December to early
March. Fog is common in the morning and can occur
very locally, making driving up and down the often nar-
row roads in the park hazardous. 29.3 Get around

29.1.5 Tourist information

Nacionalni park Plitvika jezera, Josipa Jovia
19, Znanstveno - struni centar Dr. Ivo Pevalek,
HR 53231 Plitvika jezera, +385 53 751 015,
e-mail: info@np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. 07:00-20:00.
Aug 180 HRK; Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct 110 HRK; Nov-
Mar 55 HRK; 2 days cards 90, 180, 280 HRK re-
spectively; discounts for students (an ISIC student
card is required) and children; tickets sold at the
both entrances and they are also valid for parks in-
ternal buses and ferries. (updated Aug 2016)

Cascades of Plitvice
29.2 Get in

29.2.1 By bus
29.3.1 On foot
Some buses from Zagreb (83 HRK) and Zadar or Split
take a route along the road which passes by the park en-
The paths near the entrance of the park are extremely well
trances. Ask the driver beforehand to make a stop at the
maintained and it is a relatively short walk (about 1 hour)
either park entrances: 1 entrance 1 or 1 entrance 2.
around the nearest lake.
Among the other direct connections are Biograd na Moru,
Vodice, ibenik, Primoten, Trogir and even Novalja (is- Paths, mostly made of wooden planks or gravel, will take
land of Pag). Also there is a direct bus connection to the you through the whole park. In most places they are wide,
Krka National Park. but since the park is extremely well visited they can feel
very crowded during the day. The park have made some
Keep in mind that buses in Croatia often do not run on
dierent routes through the park so it is easy to choose
time. They can come early or late, and either way they
how much you want to or have time to see. A walk from
stop only long enough to pick up riders and then continue
one end of the park to the other normally takes around 4h,
on their way. Especially in a place like Plitvice, which
but due to the unique views the park oers it is a shame
is quite a distance from other stops on a bus route. So
to be in a hurry. Take your time and enjoy it. As told
get to the bus stop early and plan on waiting for awhile.
elsewhere both buses and boats are free so it is possible
Bus schedules are usually posted at the tickets oce at the
to plan a walk zig-zagging up or down the lakes and the
both of the entrances, but bear in mind that they may not
many waterfalls, and then not have to walk back the same
reect seasonal changes.
way.
Many of the paths can be used by disabled persons, but
29.2.2 By taxi since there is a few steps here and there is some height
dierences between the lower and the upper lakes it will
Taxi drivers will await near the bus stations and will of- take a strong helper to get around with a wheelchair.
fer to drive for the same price of the bus ticket if around
10 persons are willing to take the taxi. It costs the same,
takes an hour less and most probably they wouldn't charge
for the extra baggage (The bus service charges extra). If 29.3.2 By boat
the taxi driver is kind enough, he will also provide some-
thing like a tour guide and will leave you close enough to 2 lines of small electric ferries connect far banks of the
your destination. If for example you are waiting for the Jezero Kozjak, a bigger lake close to the entrance #2.
29.6. BUY 95

29.3.3 By bus ing shoes are required. Not recommended for chil-
dren. (updated Aug 2016)
2 shuttle bus lines run along the lakes (which are useful
to take you up hills and to the entrances).
Tip: If you arrive at the same time as a big group, walk
The costs these buses and ferries are included into the one of the very well established routes in reverse. You'll
entrance ticket. probably be walking uphill for most of the trek, but you'll
probably not see another person for a few hours.
NB: Walking trails through the park, most of which are
29.4 See along the shores of the numerous lakes, are rarely steep.
However, expect to climb a substantial fraction of your
Plitvice Lakes National Park is perhaps the most beauti- visit, and especially in the hot summer months this can
ful natural wonder in Croatia. In addition to the numerous quickly lead to dehydration. Few opportunities to buy
waterfalls, a bevy of wildlife can be seen, including sh, drinks are available in the park, and the drinks sold at
frogs and a variety of bird species. Special attractions at stands are expensive, so visitors are advised to bring the
Plitvice include the Veliki Splat, a 100 foot waterfall sur- necessary water along with them into the park. Between
rounded by nearby boulders to which tourists have access. 1 and 2 liter of water per person per day is advised. A
There is also a large waterfall complex that can be access hiking backpack is essential to comfortably carry water
via a cave in the surrounding rock face. over long distances.

29.5.2 Boating
29.5 Do
1 Plitvika Jezera Boat Rental, Plitvika Jezera
The main attraction is obviously the hiking and walking National Park. 09:00-19:00. Rental service for
in the area. Keep in mind that swimming is not allowed wooden rowing boats, 60 kn per hour. Visitors
anywhere in the park. can explore Kozjak lake and its numerous waterfalls
from the water front. Fresh water snakes can often
be found sunbathing on tree trunks along the water.
29.5.1 Walking Note that it is not allowed to swim or sh in the Na-
tional Park. Although it is possible to cross Kozjak
1 Upper Lakes, Plitvika Jezera National Park. A lake, the boats must be returned to the pier where
series of smaller lakes and waterfall cascades be- they are rented. (updated Aug 2016)
tween Proscansko lake and Kozjak lake. Numerous
walking trails lead visitors around the lakes. The
lakes can be reached from Entrance 2 by crossing
29.5.3 Hiking
Kozjak lake with a ferry, which is included in the
admission fee. Alternatively, a shuttle bus can be
A few hiking trails are described at parks web page and
taken to the highest lake and then descended back to
their yers.
the ferry terminal by foot to avoid the climb. There
are good indications of walking trails in the park, so
a map is not necessary. (updated Aug 2016)
29.5.4 Skiing
1 Lower Lakes, Plitvika Jezera National Park. A
series of lakes below Kozjak lake, carved out in a 1 Ski Center Mukinje, Mukinje 55, Plitvika Jez-
canyon. Walking trails lead visitors around and over era. In winter, the Ski Center of Mukinje is open,
the lakes. The Lower Lakes can be reached from oering skiers 3 slopes with a total length of 1 km.
Entrance 1, or from Entrance 2 after traversing Koz- Primarily targeted at beginners, the lift is located in
jak lake by ferry, which is included in the admission the center of the town. Ski equipment can be rented
fee of the park. The largest waterfall (Veliki Slap) locally. (updated Aug 2016)
can be found near Kaluderovac lake. (updated Aug
2016)

1 upljara cave, Plitvika Jezera National Park. A 29.6 Buy

cave system between Gavanovac lake and Kalud-
erovac lake. Stairs are carved out into the rocks, al-
lowing visitors to ascend up to the canyon ridges, or
descend down to the hiking trails along the water-
front. The stairs are moist and steep, so good walk-
Numerous souvenir shops can be found near the entrances
of the park. Caution is advised however, as many over-
priced souvenirs sold as authentic hand crafts from
Croatia are in reality made in China.
96 CHAPTER 29. PLITVICE NATIONAL PARK

1 Robni Centar, D1, 53231, Plitvika Jezera,

+385 53 751 099. 09:00-20:00. Supermarket sell-
ing a variety of drinks, cooled and uncooled. The
most common bottled water of Croatia is JANA,
available as mineral water or in many avored ver-
sions. Around 5 - 10 kn per bottle. (updated Aug
2016)

29.7 Eat
The park itself oers few opportunities to buy food, with
the exception of food stalls and restaurants around the Water, water everywhere
entrances and ferry terminals. A large picnic area can
also be found near the ferry terminals. All restaurants are
managed by the park authority, and the food quality they
29.9.1 Lodging
serve is low compared to the prices they typically charge.
Several large hotels have been built near Entrance 2 of
Restaurants in the numerous hotels at the park entrances
the park. These largely cater to middle or high class Eu-
suer the same problem. Visitors are advised to bring
ropean tourists. Expect to pay very high prices for the
their own food into the park if possible (and of course,
luxury of spending the night close to the park entrance.
take the trash out as well!). The neighboring villages of-
fer better eating opportunities, but require a short walk Alternatively, private house and apartment owners in the
from the park entrances. nearby villages of Mukinje and Jezerce, both on walking
distance from Entrance 2, oer rooms for better prices.
A local specialty are pancakes, which are typically served
In addition, visitors will have the chance to explore the
with Nutella or ground walnuts. Prices between 15 and
lifestyle of rural Croatia and meet with local inhabitants.
25 kn. Most restaurants or konobas have them on their
OpenStreetMap provides an overview of private guest
menu in the desert or snack section.
houses and apartments in the area.

1 Bistro Vunica, Mukinje 55, 53231, Plitvika 1 Guesthouse Bor, Mukinje 59, 53231, Plitvika
Jezera, +385 51 751 282. 07:00-22:00. Mid- Jezera. A small guest house in the center of Muk-
range restaurant in the center of Mukinje, on a 15 inje, next to the skiing facilities and the only bistro
minute walk from park entrance 2. Large selection of the town. 80. (updated Aug 2016)
of fresh pizzas for 60 - 90 kn. The largest pizza size
is meant for 2 to 3 people. Indoor and outdoor seat- 1 Miric Inn, Jezerce 18, 53231, Plitvika Jezera. A
ing available. (updated Aug 2016) small inn, oering mid-range lodging. A bus con-
nection leads to the entrances of the park. (updated
1 Robni Centar, D1, 53231, Plitvika Jezera, Aug 2016)
+385 53 751 099. 09:00-20:00. Supermarket sell-
ing drinks, energy bars, croissants and local pastries
for breakfast or lunch, or bread and a wide variety 29.9.2 Camping
of toppings. Fair prices. Conveniently located on
the shortcut path leading from Mukinje to Entrance There is also a camping site in the nearby town, mostly
2 of the park. (updated Aug 2016) used by people visiting the park. Facilities are ne, good
clean toilets, a small shop, and a couple of dining places.
Camping can be made wherever you want; it is possible
29.8 Drink to choose a place between the trees, or a cosy hole in the
hills or a more open place with a magnicent view.

Nightlife none
1 Cvetkovic Camping, Cvetkovic, D429, Mukinje,
Plitvicka Jezera. Camp site 10 minutes from the
park entrance. A bus stop at the main road takes
29.9 Sleep guests to the park entrance. (updated Aug 2016)

There is a travel agency at the entrance to the park. From As long as you are staying at the camping site, your ticket
here, you can organize for a homestay. There are nu- to the park can be renewed for free at the information
merous locals who will rent bedrooms in their house and oce. Its a good way to spend more time at the park
provide food for a competitive price. and visit it outside the busier hours. Parking at the park
29.11. GO NEXT 97

is free, but if you don't want to drive the camping site

arranges buses to and from the park in the main season.

29.9.3 Backcountry
The National Park is a restricted area, limiting the oppor-
tunities for backcountry lodging. Firewood gathering and
campres are prohibited, just like shing and berry gath-
ering. In addition, areas outside the National Park bound-
aries may still be contaminated with land mines left over
from the Croatian Independence War, making it danger-
ous to wander into the forests and leave the marked roads.

29.10 Stay safe

Its worth noting that this area is one of the only remaining
regions of Europe where bears roam. It would probably
more interesting than dangerous to see a bear, but were
you to surprise a mother and her cub because you did not
expect to see bears at all, you could be in danger. A lone
bear is more frightened of you than you are of it. Yell
and bang something that makes loud noises, and the bear
will almost always run o. Bears can run and climb faster
than you can, and running signals prey, so dont run.

29.11 Go next
Zadar, a port city and destination of many of the
long distance coaches traveling through the Plitvice
area.

Rijeka, the largest city in the Kvarner region.

Split, the second largest city of Croatia and home to
another UNESCO Heritage site, Diocletians Palace.
Chapter 30

Dubrovnik-Neretva

Dubrovnik-Neretva is the southern portion of Dalmatia
and the southernmost county of Croatia. It consists of
a narrow strip of land along the coast, the long Peljesac
peninsula and a number of islands. The coastal strip is
not contiguous it is split in two by a 9 km stretch of
Herzegovina, part of the country of Bosnia and Herze-
govina, around the town of Neum.
30.1 Cities
and seasonal ights from many more European
cities.
30.5 Get around
Driving between the northern and southern portions of
the county requires passing through Neum in Bosnia and
Herzegovina. Sometimes your passport will be checked,
sometimes not.

Dubrovnik historic Pearl of the Adriatic, one of

the tourist highlights of the Mediterranean, and seat 30.6 See
of the county
Cavtat town south of Dubrovnik founded by the
Greeks in the fourth century BCE
30.7 Do
Klek tourist village in the north
30.8 Eat
Komarna tourist village in the north
Lumbarda village on the island of Korula 30.9 Drink
Metkovic second largest town, in the north
Orebi port town on Peljesac peninsula 30.10 Stay safe
Ploe port town in the north
30.11 Go next
Ston village at the base of the Peljeac peninsula

30.2 Islands
Korula the most populated island on the Croatian
Adriatic coast
Mljet part is a national park

30.3 Understand

30.4 Get in
Dubrovnik Airport has year-round ights from
Frankfurt, London, Paris, Rome, Zagreb and Zurich

98
Chapter 31

Cavtat

Cavtat is a Croatian city with a long history. Founded by 31.6 Buy

the Greeks in the fourth century BC under the name of
Epidauros, after the city of the Peloponnese.
31.7 Eat
31.1 Understand 31.8 Drink
The town changed its name to Epidaurum when it came
under Roman rule in 228 BC. During the civil war be- 31.9 Sleep
tween Julius Caesar and Pompey lined up in favor of the
rst and was besieged by Octavius, but was saved by the Hotel Croatia, Frankopanska 10, +385 20
arrival of the consul. Later became a Roman colony and 475 777, fax: +385 20 475 793, e-mail:
was occupied during the Gothic Wars from the eet sent reservations@hoteli-croatia.hr. High standard 5*
by Justinian. hotel overlooking Cavtat and the coast. Wireless in-
When the city was sacked by the Slavs and Avars just ternet throughout.
before the 614, people took refuge on an island nearby
which later united with the mainland, gave rise to the city
of Dubrovnik. From that moment Cavtat was always un- 31.10 Connect
der the control of powerful neighbour. The modern Croa-
tian name for the city reveals the ancient origin and the
link with Dubrovnik: Cavtat is a derived from Civitas Ve- 31.11 Go next
tus, the name by which the Dubrovnikans called their old
city.
Today Cavtat is a popular tourist destination, with many
hotels and private homes that rent rooms and apartments.
The seafront is lled with shops and restaurants.

31.2 Get in
Dubrovnik Airport is much closer to Cavtat than
it is to Dubrovnik.
A ferry boat connects the town to neighboring Mlini
and Dubrovnik.

31.3 Get around

31.4 See

31.5 Do

99
Chapter 32
Dubrovnik
The Old Harbour at Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is an old city on the Adriatic Sea coast in the
extreme south of Croatia. It is one of the most promi-
nent tourist resorts of the Mediterranean, a seaport and
the centre of the Dubrovnik-Neretva County. Its popu-
lation is about 43,000 in 2011. Dubrovnik is nicknamed
Pearl of the Adriatic and is listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
Dubrovnik within Croatia
100
32.1 Understand
The city of Dubrovnik (Latin: Ragusa) was built on mar-
itime trade. In the Middle Ages it became the only city-
state in the Adriatic to rival Venice. Supported by its
wealth and skilled diplomacy, the city achieved a remark-
able level of development during the 15th and 16th cen-
turies. Furthermore, Dubrovnik was one of the centres
of the development of the Croatian language and litera-
ture, home to many notable poets, playwrights, painters,
mathematicians, physicists and other scholars.
Today Dubrovnik is the proudest feather in Croatia's
tourist cap, an elite destination and one of the most beau-
tiful towns in the Mediterranean. Dubrovnik used to be
an independent republic, surviving mostly on trade. It
managed to survive many centuries, with constant threats
to its territory, particularly from the mighty Ottoman Em-
pire and Venice. As early as the 19th century, it was
discovered by celebrities as a place to be seen. George
Bernard Shaw once said that those who seek paradise on
Earth should come to Dubrovnik and nd it. Royalty,
presidents and diplomats have all favored the city. The
late Pope John Paul II was a fan of Dubrovnik and was
even made an honorary citizen. Out of the 23 top luxury
hotels in Croatia in 2010, 13 were located in Dubrovnik.
Dubrovnik is steeped in stunning architecture and sculp-
tural detail, and boasts spectacular churches, monaster-
ies, museums, and fountains. A multitude of typical
towns and excursions include: The Elaphiti Islands, the
attractive town of Cavtat,the Konavle valley, Mljet Is-
land, Korula Island, Ston and Peljesac Peninsula. The
neighbouring towns of Kotor and Perast in Montenegro
or Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina also make for in-
triguing day trips.
32.2 Get in
32.2.1 By plane
Dubrovnik airport (IATA: DBV) is about 20 km to the
south of the city.
The following airlines operate ights to/from Dubrovnik
32.2. GET IN 101

kn. Going to the airport a bus aims to leave the main

bus station 2 hr before each international ight, and costs
35 kn. Departure times are also displayed in the tourist
information oce at Pile Gate. The bus passes close to
the Old Town en route to the airport and you can board
this bus at the bus stop on Petra Kresimira 4 just above
the Old Town, by the lower cable car station. Make sure
you wave furiously otherwise the driver may not stop.

32.2.2 By train

There is no train to Dubrovnik. A narrow gauge line used

Bokar Fortress to link Dubrovnik to Sarajevo but was closed in 1976.
The closest rail station is at Ploe, less than 2 hr by bus
Airport: from Dubrovnik. From there, you can connect to trains
Aer Lingus (Dublin-seasonal), Aeroot (Moscow - to Mostar and Sarajevo. Trains to points north can be
seasonal), Air Berlin (Munich-seasonal, Stuttgart- boarded at Split, a 4 hr bus ride from Dubrovnik.
seasonal), Air Serbia (Belgrade-seasonal), Austrian
Airlines (Vienna), B&H Airlines (Sarajevo-seasonal),
Bmibaby (East Midlands-seasonal), British Air- 32.2.3 By car
ways (London-Gatwick-seasonal), Croatia Airlines
(Amsterdam, Athens, Belgrade-seasonal, Dsseldorf, The trip from Split along the coastal road (Jadranska
Frankfurt, London-Gatwick, Munich, Paris-Charles magistrala or D8) is a beautiful scenic journey through
de Gaulle, Pula, Rome-Fiumicino, Split, Tel Aviv, small, quaint villages and other tourist destinations. Just
Vienna, Zagreb, Zrich), DanubeWings (Bratislava), know that in the summer months the trip is likely to take
EasyJet (Berlin-Schnefeld-seasonal, London Gatwick- several hours longer than anticipated. What looks like a
seasonal), Geneva-seasonal, Liverpool-seasonal, London short trip on a map can take 6 hr.
Gatwick-seasonal, Milan-Malpensa-seasonal, Paris- A much faster way of simply getting from Split to
Orly-seasonal), Estonian Air (Tallinn), Finnair Dubrovnik by car is to take the A1 highway to Ploe and
(Helsinki), Flybe (Birmingham-seasonal, Exeter- then continue via Opuzen and Neum to Dubrovnik.
seasonal, Southampton-seasonal), Germanwings
(Berlin-Schnefeld, Cologne/Bonn, Hamburg),
Iberia Airlines (Madrid-seasonal), Iberia oper- 32.2.4 By bus
ated by Air Nostrum (Valencia-seasonal), Israir
(Tel Aviv - seasonal), Jetairy (Brussels-seasonal), The main bus station is in Kantag, near Port Gruz and
Jet2.com (Belfast-seasonal, Edinburgh-seasonal, the Tudjman bridge, 2.5 km northwest of the Old Town.
Leeds-seasonal, Manchester-seasonal), Lufthansa Local bus 7 operates between this station and Babin kuk,
(Munich), Luxair (Luxembourg), Monarch Airlines and bus 1 serves Old Town.
(London-Gatwick-seasonal, Birmingham-seasonal,
Manchester-seasonal), Norwegian Air Shuttle (Bergen, Direct buses run to/from Zagreb (205-234 kn, 11 hr, 7
Oslo-Gardermoen, Stavanger, Stockholm-Arlanda, daily), Korula (100 kn, 3 hr, 1 daily), Mostar (100 kn, 3
Trondheim, Warsaw),Tarom (Bucharest - Henri hr, 2 daily), Orebic (100 kn, 2.5 hr, 1 daily), Rijeka (400
Coanda, seasonal) Thomson Airways (London Gatwick, kn, 12 hr, 3 daily), Sarajevo (160 kn, 5 hr, 1 daily), Split
London-Luton, Manchester-seasonal), Turkish Airlines (100-150 kn, 4.5 hr, 14 daily), Zadar (200 kn, 8 hr, 7
(Istanbul-seasonal), Vueling (Barcelona-seasonal), daily). In the high season, there is also a daily bus leaving
Wizzair (London-Luton-seasonal) at 11AM going to the Montenegro cities of Herceg Novi,
Bar, Kotor, and Budva. And at 15h to Prijedor and Banja
The exact list of destinations and airlines, especially the Luka (10h) in Bosnia. A one-way trip to Budva costs 128
low-cost ones, changes each year, but there is always a kn, or 15. The return tickets are much cheaper and ad-
year-round service to/from Zagreb and seasonal sched- visable, just look out for the choice of the bus company.
uled and charter ights to/from many other airports in
Europe. When coming by bus from Split or cities further north,
police ocers may board the bus and you may be
asked for a valid identity document when crossing the
Airport bus transfers Croatia Airlines operates buses Neum corridor which belongs to Bosnia and Herzegov-
between the airport and the main bus station in Kantag ina. While the bus companies list trip duration of approx.
(45 kn, 45 min), which is 2.5 km northwest of the Old 4 hr, be prepared for a ride of closer to 5.5-6 hr, including
Town. Taxis from the airport to the centre will cost 320 Bosnian border checks.
102 CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK

When travelling into Montenegro and the Airport sit on
the right hand side (not behind driver) for best views, and
vice-versa for the return. Travelling to Bosnia, sit on the
left hand side (behind the driver) for best views.
A departure listing for the international bus station is
available at the website of the city bus operator. Further
details can be found online
From Bari in Italy. The dull engine vibration or
the swaying of the boat from high winds are likely to
keep you awake. Cabins are strongly recommended.
Although you can sit comfortably enough inside with
the cheaper deck pass, interior temperature is 16C
or below and makes for a chilly night even in the
height of summer.

On all intercity buses you pay a separate fee of 2 or 10

kn to the driver for luggage. So keep some change ready.

32.2.5 By boat 32.3 Get around

?'"`UNIQ--maplink-00000000-QINU`"'?
Map of Dubrovnik
The Old Town can be comparatively dicult to navigate

St. John Fortress

Cruise ships

Many cruise ships come to this port of call, typically

docking at the Port of Dubrovnik (Port Gruz) across
from the main bus station, 2.5 km northwest of the
walled old town. The easiest and cheapest way to get
from the main bus station to the Old Town is by us-
ing the local buses number 1, 1A and 1B, which cir-
culate almost constantly. Some cruise ships anchor
oshore just east of the Old Town and tender the
passengers directly into the Old Port. In 2010 over
900,000 cruise ship passengers visited Dubrovnik.

Ferries
Stradun

Jadrolinija
From Rijeka Ferries run up and down the coast.
Calling at Split, Stari Grad, Korula and Sobra on
the way. Journey time is up to 20 hr, so consider
getting a cabin. The restaurant serves up some de-
cent food at surprisingly reasonable prices, but bear
in mind that the +23% tax is not included on the
menu. While the journey is scenic there is nothing
in the way of entertainment. Come prepared with
a good book or just sit on the deck and watch the
Adriatic Sea go by. This is more than enough enter-
tainment for an afternoon.
on rst appearances, as it really is a warren of little streets.
There are however signs at the entrances to many of these
streets advertising what businesses, shops, restaurants and
accommodation are to be found in that direction.
That being said, some of these signs appear to be either
intentionally misleading or woefully out of date. For ex-
ample, there is no oce of any bus company within the
Old Town, despite what the signs may say.
The city is completely pedestrianised and easily small
enough to get around on foot, some of the streets are a
little steep though.
32.4. SEE
32.3.1 By bus
If you are not staying in Old Town, its relatively simple
get there by bus, as just about every one leads to the Old
Town. However, it might be advisable to get a timetable
just in case. It costs 12 kn (just over 1.5) for tickets
bought at any kiosk,or 15 kn bought on the bus; ticket
valid for 1 hr. At selected kiosks (including the interna-
tional bus station) you can purchase a day pass for 30 kn.
This pass is valid for 24 hr of unlimited travel on the city
bus network, starting from the rst validation. The easiest
way to get from the Main Bus Station to the Old Town is
by using the (mostly modern and air-con equipped) buses
number 1, 1A and 1B, which circulate almost constantly.
These buses can be boarded from the bus stop just outside
the Main Bus Station. Apart from this, there is another
bus service which comes inside the bus station and drops
you directly at the Old Town. Schedules are available at
the information counter of the Main Bus Station.
32.3.2 Car rental
A Marker Car Rental (Airport Shuttle Service
Dubrovnik), Svetog Djurdja 6-Pile Gate-Old Town,
+385 91 739 75 45, fax: +385 20 418 730, e-mail:
info@carhiredubrovnik.com. Airport transfers, car,
motorbike and scooter rental. From 32 per day.
Kompas Rent a Car, Kardinala Stepinca 52,
+385 20 436 541, fax: +385 20 436 571, e-mail:
reservations@kompasrent.hr.
EasyRent, Uz glavicu 7, +385 98 1952 114, fax:
+385 20 773 953, e-mail: info@dubrovnik-airport-
carhire.com. Cars from 22 per day.
Airport and City Transfer
Cheap Dubrovnik Tours
32.4 See
Dubrovnik was heavily bombed in late 1991 during the
Croatian War of Independence (part of a series of wars in
the region). Almost all of the damage has been repaired;
however, if you look closely around the old town, mortar
damage in the cobblestone streets and bullet marks in the
stone houses are visible.
32.4.1 Old Town
Rolands Column (in front of the Bell Tower). A
slender stone ag sta of the legendary knight. Also
known as Orlandos Column. Ever since its foun-
dation in 1950, the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is
103
ocially opened by raising a ag carrying the citys
motto Libertus on Orlandos sta.
Bell Tower (after the Ploe entrance to the city). On
top of the tower are the famous 'Zelenci' (The Green
Ones), bronze statues which strike the gigantic bell
every hour. They have been recently replaced with
copies and the originals are in the atrium of the
Sponza Palace.
Sponza Palace (West of the Bell Tower). Gothic
Renaissance palace, one of the few buildings that
has maintained its form from before the catastrophic
1667 earthquake. Hosts historic archives. Memorial
room of defenders. Open 10:00-22:00. 20 kn
Rectors Palace, Pred dvorom 1, +385 20 321
437. Formerly the palace of the Major Council, now
houses a museum dedicated to the citys history.
War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6. Open 09:00-
21:00. An exhibition centre of war and conict pho-
tography. Exhibits change during the season. Stun-
ning images by world renowned photo journalists.
1 Pile Gate (Vrata od Pila), at the western end of
the Placa Thoroughfare (Stradun) (Old town). A
convenient starting place for your stroll through the
Old Town is the Pile Gate. Before entering the Old
Town, Fort Lovrjenac, the rst among many sites
worth seeing in Dubrovnik, provides a good view of
the Old Town and its wall.
Placa Stradun (Old town). The Stradun (Placa) is
the central street of the city of Dubrovnik and is the
place where the old city comes to life. During the
day, explore the shades of the perpendicular streets
and alleys on its sides, and during the night, take
walks up and down the Stradun with an ice-cream
in hand. The uniform Baroque architecture of the
houses in Placa, with shops on the street level and
their 'knee-like' entrances, got its present-day form
in the restoration of the City taking place after the
disastrous earthquake in 1667, when a large number
of luxurious Gothic and Renaissance palaces had
been destroyed. The architectural design of Placa
reveals eective solutions and the business sense of
the Dubrovnik Republic in those dicult times. To-
day, Placa is still the shopping centre and venue of
major events.
Big Onofrios Fountain. In the western (Pile) en-
trance of the old town, The fountain stairs are nowa-
days a favourite meeting place for local youth and
where both the tourists and pigeons take rest and re-
fresh themselves with cool water.
104 CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK

Old Port. The eastern part of the Old Town of Bokar Fort is situated on the seaward of City Walls. It was
Dubrovnik; some cruise ship passengers are ten- designed by Florentine architect Michelozzi in the 15th
dered to the Old Port. century.
Hours: 08:00-19:00 summer, 10:00-15:00 winter, daily.
Fort Lovrijenac. 9:00-17:30. The monumental Entrance fee to the walls: 120 kn for adults, 30 kn for
fort rises above 37 m high rock. It changed roles children and 30 kn for students with a valid student card.
in the course of history. The main purpose of its
construction was defence, and the main idea was to
protect the freedom of Dubrovnik. Not much re- 32.4.3 Churches
mains in the way of historical artefacts but the fort
gives spectacular views back upon the walled city. Franciscan Monastery, Placa 2, +385 20 321
30kn, or free by showing your City Walls ticket. 410. 09:00-18:00.. This beautiful monastery with
Baroque Church, houses a Romanesque cloister and
the third oldest pharmacy in the world.
Aquarium. 08:00-21:00. 30 kn.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin

1 Visia Dubrovnik 5D Theatrum, Poljana Paska
Milievia 4 (in the Convent of St. Clare, on the
right side at the beginning of Stradun through Pile
gate), +385 20 324-714, fax: +385 20 324-714, e-
mail: info@visiadubrovnik.com. 09:00-20:00. Vir-
tual reality technology guides visitors to Dubrovnik
through the history and cultural features of the city
and wider Croatia.
Mary, Kneza Damjana Jude 1, +385 20 323 459.
M-Sa 08:00-20:00, Su 11:00-17:30. This impres-
sive building is in the Poljana Marin Dri. Sup-
posedly, the original church was built with money
donated by Richard the Lionhearted who survived
shipwreck on his way home from the Third Crusade.
The current Roman Baroque cathedral dates from
the 18th Century.

32.4.2 City walls Church of Saint Blaise (Crkva Svetog Vlaha).

Baroque Church dedicated to the citys patron saint.
Walk on the walls around the old town, great views. It
is highly recommended to visit the walls during the early
morning hours or the late afternoon hours during mid-
summer months as it can become hot.
Dubrovnik is surrounded by City Walls which are 2 km
long and for which it is famous all around the world.
Through the history City Walls were protection from the
enemy, today Dubrovnik City Walls brings the visitors
from the whole world who want to see this city- museum.
There are 3 entrances to the City Walls: on Stradun by the
Pile gate, by fort Saint Johns and at the Customs House
gate.
Within the City Walls you will see Fort Minceta and Fort
St. Johns on the south-eastern side. Also, within the City
Walls are Fort Lawrence at Pile and Fort Revelin at Ploce.
The main entrance to the City Walls is by the Inner Pile
Gates.
Minceta Fort is one of the most beautiful cultural attrac-
tions in Dubrovnik. It is situated on the northwest side of
the city inside the City Walls. It was built according to
the design of Renaissance builder Juraj Dalmatinac. St.
Lukes Tower you can see walking along the landward side
of City Walls up to Ploce Gate. St. Lukes Tower has pro-
tected the entrance to the Dubrovnik harbour throughout
the history of the city.
Inside the Church of St. Ignatius
St Johns Fort was constructed in 16th century and it is
really worth of visiting- on its ground oor you can visit
the Aquarium, and on rst and second oor you can visit Church of St. Ignatius and the Jesuit College
Maritime Museum. (more about it at the end of the page). (On an elevated square close to the southern edge of
32.4. SEE
the Old Town). Mass held in English daily at 11:00
in the summer.. Ornate Jesuit church, approached
via a romantic baroque staircase modelled on the
Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). Built between 1667
and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most
Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the
Ges in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits.
Dominican Monastery. Open 09:00-18:00. This
is an exceptionally valuable historic complex, which,
besides its religious purpose, also represents the im-
portant artistic treasury of ancient Dubrovnik.
Church of St. Sebastian (by the Ploe gate). 15th-
century church built by the Ploe gate since St. Se-
bastian is the saint protector against plague.
Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons
[Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona]. Built from
1865-1877, stands behind impressive wrought iron
gates. Houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine
and Cretan. Museum next to church has extensive
icon collection. Church admission: free; Museum
admission 5-10 kn.
32.4.4 Museums
Some museums oer a discount ticket if you visit more
than one museum. For example its 40 kn for the Rectors
Palace, 45 kn for Rectors Palace and Ethnographic mu-
seum, and 50 kn for Rectors Palace, Ethnographic mu-
seum and Maritime museum. You can use these tickets
on multiple days.
Bukovac House (Kua Bukovac), Bukoveva 5,
Cavtat, +385 20 478 646. 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00-
20:00, Sun 16:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Includes
works by Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the
most famous modern Croatian painters. Part of the
house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young
artists.
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Priro-
doslovni muzej), Androvieva 1, +385 20 324
888. 09:00-16:00, closed Sa-Su. The collection
of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens dates back to
1872 and may not appeal to everyone.
Franciscan Monastery Museum, Placa 2. 09:00-
18:00. Houses artifacts from one of the worlds old-
est pharmacies. 30 kn.
Sigurata Convent Museum, Od Sigurate 13,
+385 20 321 467. Upon request. Entry: 10 kn. 32.4.5
Synagogue and Jewish Museum, Zudioska 5,
+385 20 321 028. 10:00-15:00. This originally
105
Sephardic Synagogue is supposed to be the second-
oldest still in use synagogue in Europe today. A
permanent Jewish community here was founded at
the end of the 15th century following the expulsions
from Portugal and Spain. The Jewish Ghetto was es-
tablished in 1546 on Jewish Street in the old town of
Dubrovnik. The community ourished and included
respected doctors, merchants and state representa-
tives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom,
but there were some restrictions on their activities
at certain points in history. The synagogue is tiny
and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly
painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum con-
tains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside
information on the history of the Jewish community
in Dubrovnik.
Dominican Monastery Museum, Sv. Domina 4,
+385 20 321 423. 09:00-18:00. Paintings and
artifacts from Dubrovniks past. Entry: 20 kn.
The Sponza Palace Museum (Museum of the
State Archives). Entry: 20 kn.
The Rector`s Palace Museum, Pred dvorom 1,
+385 20 321 437. 09:00-18:00. Artifacts, paint-
ings and furniture dating back from the time of the
Dubrovnik Republic. Entry: 40 kn.
The Treasury of Cathedral, Kneza Damjana Jude
1, +385 20 323 459. 09:00-18:00. The Treasury
has 138 reliquaries which are carried around the city
during the Feast of St Blaise. Entry: 15 kn.
Maritime Museum, In St. John Fortress, +385
20 323 904. 09:00-18:00. Considering how vital
sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the
Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the citys most
important museums. Entry: 40 kn.
Home of Marin Dri, iroka 7, +385 20
420 490. M-Sa 09:00-13:00 and by appointment.
Memorial house of Marin Dri, a famous 16th-
century Croatian playwright from Dubrovnik.
The Etnographic Museum (Rupe Granary), Od
Rupa 3, +385 20 323 013. 09:00-18:00. Built in
1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the
exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiri-
tual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes
and textiles give the best avour of the region where
folk culture is still celebrated. Entry: 40 kn.
Beaches
Lapad Beach. A car free, sandy beach area on the
Lapad Peninsula, approximately 3.5 km from the old
106 CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK

Take the new renovated cable car and you will

get from Down station to Mountain Sr in less
than 4 min. Round trip ticket 120 kn.
Go by car via Bosanka village. Follow
Jadranska cesta (D8) towards Mlini and drive
past Dubrovnik. Turn left to Bosanka village
and follow the road up the hill. There is also
the bus number 17 from Pile to Bosanka.
Timetable: http://libertasdubrovnik.com/
wp-content/uploads/gradski.pdf

Visit the Fortress Lovrijenac. It was an essential

fortication for defense of the city from both ground
Banje Beach and the Old Town and sea attacks. In order to prevent mutiny by the
commander of the fortress, the walls facing the city
are only 60 cm thick compared to those exposed to
town, where you can relax in the shade of the numer- enemy re which were 12 m thick. Above the en-
ous trees. At the end of a long pedestrianised street trance to the fortress is an inscription that says Non
full of cafe bars and restaurants you will see many bene pro toto libertas venditur auro which trans-
popular pebble beaches known as Lapad beaches. lates to Freedom is not sold for all the gold in the
These beaches are really beautiful and well used. world.
Lapad is denitely one of the most beautiful parts
of Dubrovnik and you really must visit it. If you
take the headland path to the right hand side of La-
pad beach, as you look at the Adriatic, you can walk 32.5 Do
along a charming little coast path with small con-
crete 'beaches and ladders into the sea. These were
put in during the Tito era and are ideal for one or
two sunbathers. Walking further along is an excel-
lent local sh restaurant - ideal for ending the day.
The walk back is not particularly well lit, but per-
fectly safe.

Banje Beach (near the Old Town). A well located

pebble beach. Theres a concessioned part with an
entrance fee, but also a public part which is always
livelier and more relaxed. Great way to beat the
heat in the middle of the town. Amazing view to
city walls, Old Town Dubrovnik and the island of
Lokrum. Beach volleyball, mini football or water View of the City
polo. You can also enjoy lying on deck chair and
having a drink.
Cli Jumping @ Cafe Bua. See listing for Cafe
Bua in the Drinks section.
32.4.6 Other
Stradun. Take a walk and enjoy a drink at a cafe Lazareti, Frana Supila 8 (Ploce, just out side of the
on the main thoroughfare of the old town. east entrance to the Old town), +385 20 324 633,
e-mail: arl@du.htnet.hr. Old quarantine hospital
Mount Sr, For a great view of the town. There serves as a cultural centre for concerts, exhibitions,
is a fortress on top which contains a small museum workshops, theater, lm, night clubs and literature.
describing its history. There are several ways up: The concert hall/bar is a very cozy place with a de-
cent sound system. Gallery Galeriya Tutunplok is
Walk up the winding footpath to the fortress open daily 12:00-21:00. Films and theater show-
and large cross on the hilltop 400 m above ings range from 20-40 kn Concerts cost 40-100 kn.
Dubrovnik. Walking up from the old town A nightclub is open here from 10:00-16:00 and will
takes about 90 min. The path is quite rocky cost you about 30 kn. Gathers a mostly alternative
so use suitable footwear. crowd.
32.5. DO
1 imad hotel, Za Karmenom 1. for free. Swim
in the Adriatic Sea below the old wall. In the har-
bour of the old town, go all around (right) along the
wall, beyond the aquarium and there is a pier and
some rocks where you can cool down on a hot sum-
mer day. Avoid stepping on sea urchins, which are
commonly found on rocks in the sea water around
Dubrovnik, especially if you are wearing no shoes.
These are mostly found in clear water and are easy
to spot.
32.5.1 Sailing and boat trips
Dubrovnik is an excellent starting point for exploring
southern Adriatic coast primarily Elaphite islands, Ko-
rula, Peljeac and Mljet. There are many charter agen-
cies where you can charter a sailing or motor yacht which
are based in Dubrovnik. Majority of them operate from
ACI marina Dubrovnik (4240,3 N 1807,6 E) which
is based in Komolac about two nautical miles away from
the entrance to the port Gruz, and only 6 kilometres away
from the old town. It is open throughout the whole year.
AYachtCharterDubrovnik.com operates from
Komolac and oers a unique selection of yachts and
other type of sailboats great for a family vacation.
Dubrovnik is characterized by Mediterranean climate and
generally light NW winds, making a yacht charter holi-
day very popular with couples with younger children and
less experienced skippers and crews. A strong north wind
known as the Bora is more usual during autumn and win-
ter.
When you charter a yacht through charter agency and ar-
rive to designated marina there are a few things that need
to be done. The most important thing is the yacht check
in (usually Saturday around 16:00). Take your time doing
yacht check in. Familiarise yourself with the chartered 32.5.3 Cable car
yacht and with the yacht equipment.
The rule of thumb is the more time you take for the yacht
check in, the less time you will need for the yacht check
out. After that you have to do the shopping for the charter
vacation.
Don't neglect the grocery shopping because the sea is un-
predictable and you don't want to get stuck on the boat
without anything to eat or drink. You can do the shopping
in a marina however the prices are usually much higher
there, or you can order from yacht provisioning services
who usually deliver the products to the marina at no extra
fee.
Marina in Dubrovnik, . The only ma-
rina in Dubrovnik (formally in Komo-
lac city) designed for sailing yachts and
touristic catamarans, which start cruises
in Dubrovnik. It is about 5 km from
107
the city centre of Dubrovnik, in Rijeka
Dubrovacka.
In Jam Yacht Supply, . Online provi-
sioning catalog where you can order from
a large selection of groceries and other
products months in advance and every-
thing you order awaits for you in the ma-
rina. This is convenient because it takes
the load of you and the things you must
do when you arrive at the marina for your
sailing holiday.
Lokrum, Take a ferry to the Island of Lokrum
which houses a monastery, a fort with great views of
Dubrovnik, botanical gardens and a naturist beach.
Preserved as a nature park this small island is reach-
able in 10 min in boat-time from the old city port.
It oers unparalleled serenity, beauty and peace.
32.5.2 Festivals
Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Music and theatre
festival held since 1949 from 10 July to 25 Au-
gust. Famous nationwide for its exquisite selection
of drama, plays and concert of chamber music with
more than 2,000 artists from 30 countries during 47
days of festival. Be sure to book in advance and
don't miss a chance to see some of the open-air per-
formances.
Libertas Film Festival. Film festival held from
August 2530.
Dubrovnik Cable Car, Petra Kreimira 4. bb,
20000 Dubrovnik (The easiest way to come to the ca-
ble car is from the Old Town of Dubrovnik. On the
northern side of the town there is Bua Street which
leads you towards the exit from the city walls. From
there you need to keep climbing towards the reman
station. Once you are at the reman station, you need
to cross the street on your right hand side and keep
going straight. After few moments you will see ca-
ble car station on your right hand side.). 9:00-24:00.
The original cable car was bombed during the con-
icts and closed in 1991. It reopened to the public
for the rst time on 10 July 2010. The view of the
Old City will rival that found on any postcard. There
is a small shop at the top and Restaurant Panorama
with new outside terraces, restaurant with best view.
Directions to the Cable Car are dicult to nd in
the Old City. 120 kn round trip.
108 CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK

32.6 Buy 32.6.1 Bicycle parts and service

Somewhat surprisingly, some car parts shops in the

Dubrovnik area sell bicycles; they are easy to notice, as
new bikes are standing outside in front of the shop. These
shops may also carry some bicycle accessories and spare
parts, but they don't do any bicycle repair. As of 2014,
there was no real (full-time) bicycle shop in town; there
was one person (Toni Kera, see below) who works as a
bicycle mechanic in his spare time, in a shed next to his
apartment building, while holding a day job elsewhere.

Toni Kera, metar za bicikle, P. Zorania 1 (ask

at the garage), +385 20 436-776. This is not a
regular bicycle repair shop, however the operator of
this local garage oers a service.

32.7 Eat

A lane with tourist shops in Dubrovnik

There are many local artisans who specialize in domestic

crafts. Popular purchases include: handmade tablecloths,
linens and napkins. Many merchants claim that the neck-
tie was invented in Croatia. Another local specialty is
little dolls dressed in local garb.
The Pharmacy, at the Franciscan Monastery creates
hand creams and other toiletries based on ancient recipes.
The pharmacy is one of the oldest in this part of Europe.
It has been operating from the time of its foundation to Sponza Palace (Paac Sponza)
the present day.
While wandering around the Old Town, you will come There is a wide range of restaurants in the Old Town,
across many shops that sell Croatian goods such as wine mostly oering a very similar menu of local seafood and
and textiles. some meat dishes. The cuisine may not be very imagina-
tive, but it is usually of good quality and very fresh.
If you have transport there is a Lidl (German discount
supermarket) 5 km east of the Old Town near the village Restaurants can be crudely separated into (slightly)
of ibaa - this is where the locals shop to avoid steep cheaper tourist-trap places, and more expensive but rst
Dubrovnik prices. class gastronomic restaurants. There are a few pizze-
rias, mostly wood-red and quite acceptable. The Kra
Magnolika, Marina Getaldiceva 7 (3rd St. to the chocolate sold at stores is delicious. Remember that
right in the Old Town), +385 98 195 4040. Small Dubrovnik, more so than the rest of Croatia, is well aware
gallery with unconventional art and cool jewellery of its status as a tourist hot-spot. Rents for restaurant
design. premises are high and consequently the prices on the
menus reect this.
Clara Stones Jewellery Store, Naljeskoviceva 8 Note that in the o peak season of NovemberMarch
(5th street to the left of Stradun if you go from Pile nearly all the top-end restaurants close, leaving only a
Gate), +385 20 321706. Unique handmade adri- handful of desperate tourist trap enterprises operating and
atic coral, pearl and gems jewellery with certifcate still charging high prices. You can however still eat well
of authenticity. and discounts can be negotiated.
32.7. EAT 109

Dubrovnik cuisine is characteristically not very spicy and
is famous for traditionalism. Many popular meals are
characteristic of Dubrovnik such as zelena menestra (it
is the name for many sorts of cabbages and other vegeta-
bles with meat), the meat dish paticada and the famous
caramel-based dessert dubrovaka rozata.
Since Dubrovnik restaurants are quite popular, many
mid-range and high-end establishments provide the op-
tion of online reservation. English-language menus are
found everywhere.
32.7.1 Budget
Kuk with good pizza and very good Mexican
food/specialities. 40 kn for a normal 30 cm pizza;
50-80 kn for delicious Mexican food/specialities.
Spaghetteria Toni, Nikole Bozidarevica 14,
+385 20 323-134. A small Italian style restaurant in
the old town with outdoor seating providing a wide
variety of pasta.
Taj Mahal (within the old city). Oers a variety of
Bosnian/Eastern cuisine such as Cevapcici u lepinji,
baklava and tufahi. The wait can be quite long, and
vegetarian options are often sold out.

Foodstus to prepare your own meals can be bought at
Zoro, Ulica od Pua 7 (in the heart of Old Town). 07:00-
23:00. .
La Luna, Andrije Hebranga 60, +385 20 419
736. 09:00-24:00. Large portions. Really good
pizza with fresh ingredients. Best to have a medium
pizza for 1 person or large if you are really hungry -
a large can be split in half for not that hungry cou-
ples. Only pizza is served before 17:00, for pasta or
other dishes you will have to wait until 17:00. 45
kn/medium pizza.
Lady Pipi (from Pile Gate second street on left right
at the top of the steps). Worth the climb for magnif-
icent views over the old town from the restaurants
terrace and presumably taking its name from an an-
cient water feature just outside the restaurant (not
for the prudish). Grilled sh with vegetables 110 kn,
grilled chicken with fries about 70 kn, salads etc. Be
prepared to wait for a table with a terrace view as is
very popular with locals - alternatively arrive before
8 in the evening to avoid the busiest times. Beware
of wasps.

Lokanda Peskarija, Na ponti bb, +385 20 324

32.7.2 Mid-range
750. Traditional Dalmatian appetizers and meals,
you get your meal in a large black shermans style
pot.

Mea Culpa, iroka Street. One of the best pizzerias

on what is becoming a 'pizza street'. Go for pizza or
a coee and brandy and exchange banter with the
sta. 70 kn/pizza+bottle of water.

Nishta, Prijeko 30 (At the top of the rst set of

stairs on Palmotieva, which is the 3rd street on the
left when walking from Pile gate), +385 92 218
8612. Dubrovniks rst and only vegetarian restau-
rant, with vegan and gluten free options available
upon request.

Pekara Zlatno Zrno patisserie, Petra Kresimira

(outside the city walls near the re station), +385
20 412153. Nice patisserie / bakery that stays open
late. Expensive, but cheaper than those within the
city walls.

Poklisar, Ribarnica 1 (in the old harbour), +385

20 322176. Limited but good menu, including pizza
and some very enjoyable live piano music.

Pizzeria Scala, Mata Vodopia 3 (near Tommys

supermarket), +385 91 412-5110. 08:00-24:00. Street dining in Dubrovnik
A very nice pizzeria between Lapad and Babin
110 CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK

Arka, Gundulieva poljana (in the Old Town). Dal-

matian cuisine in an excellent location. Has some
good vegetarian options. The baked moussaka es-
pecially is worth a try.

Domino Steak House, Od Domina 6, +385 20

323 103. One of the best for a variety of ways
of serving steak. Also serves traditional Dalmatian
fare.

Dubravka 1836 (welcome@dubravka1836.hr), Br- Old City of Dubrovnik

salje 1 (Pile Gate, Brsalje Sq at entrance to the Old
Town.), +385 20 426 319. Variety of pizzas, meat
and seafood dishes, quality domestic and foreign variety of fruits. Examples include ljivovica, made from
wines, cocktails, homemade ice cream and desserts. plums, loza, made from grapes, and orahovica, made with
Pizza 60 kn, mains 70-160 kn, dessert 30 kn.. walnuts. All are quite strong.
There are many excellent local wines from both the Pel-
Konoba Atlantic, Kardinala Stepinca 42, +385 jeac Peninsula and Konavle and it is often less expen-
20 435 726. Tasty Italian food and inexpensive sive than soft drinks like Coca Cola. However, be careful
wine. Try the lobster and prawn ravioli. when purchasing wine from unlicensed dealers. Though
the price is very attractive with some being as low as 10
*Marco Polo, Lucarica 6 (near St. Blaise church), kn or 1.5 per litre it can sometimes be of low quality.
+385 99 801 45 66. 10-24. Good traditional food served Croatian beer is also good and popular, though none is
in a small outdoor courtyard. Really nice restaurant with made in the Dubrovnik region.
dierent types of food.

Proto, iroka Ulica (Old Town). Good seafood. 32.8.1 Cafes

There are numerous cafes throughout the Old Town and
32.7.3 Splurge the entire city with prices varying according to the loca-
tion (particularly, those located on the Stradun are by far
Gils Cuisine & Pop Lounge, Sv. Dominika bb
the most expensive but you are paying for the ambiance
(Near the Ploce gate), +385 20 32 2222, fax: +358
and people-watching as well). Most cafes serve a wide
20 32 2220, e-mail: info@gilsdubrovnik.com. A
variety of drinks all day.
new and rather over the top venue located in the Old
town of Dubrovnik with stunning views of the old
harbour. The restaurant oers ultra modern French 32.8.2 Bars
cuisine and a wine and digestive cellar. A lounge
bar has fresh cocktails and funky DJ music. 500 Walk towards the sea from Stradun near the Ploce gate,
kn/person. and you'll hit a tiny square with outdoor seating by 4 or 5
dierent pubs, with live music playing, and large cocktail
Nautika, Brsalje 3 (just outside the Pile gate to the pitchers with very low alcohol content.
Old City, on the waterfront), +385 20 44 25 26.
Great views of the sea and Old City. Pay attention
Cafe Bua, Iza Mura (Follow a sign that says cold
to the menu prices which switch from Kuna to Euro
drinks and enter through a hole in the wall on the
throughout. Try the 17 euro Mediterranean Lunch
south side of the Old Town. Just wander up the stairs
special; otherwise start at 200 kn.
(on the right side of Stradun coming from Pile gate),
until you hit the city walls, and then walk all the way
Porat Restaurant & Terrace (Restaurant in Hilton
down.). The tables and chairs are set out on the
Imperial Dubrovnik hotel), Marijana Blazica 2,
side of the cli and the beers are served in bottles
+385 20 320-320. Spacious terrace, just outside the
and plastic cups. You can sunbathe on the rocks or
Pile gate. Oers international and Croatian cuisine.
do some cli-diving but do watch for rocks below.
This is lovely in the evening, when the sun is setting
and you gaze over at island of Lokrum. Eclectic
32.8 Drink chilled out music plays unobtrusively in the back-
ground. There isnt much in the way of shelter apart
The most popular hard alcohol in Croatia is home made from some palm leaves so Bua wont open in bad
rakija. This is a very strong distilled drink made from a weather. Higher price range.
32.9. SLEEP
Casablanca (On one of the streets to the left of
Stradun walking from the Pile gate). Look for ash-
ing red and blue lights. This is an interesting, slightly
bizarre bar with seating outside on the city stairs,
techno music, and may have erotic dancing.
D'vino Wine Bar, Palmoticeva 4a (Coming from
Pile Gate they are on the third street o of Stradun
on the left.), +385 20 321 223. D'Vino Wine
Bar has a selection of over 100 ne domestic and
imported wine available by the glass, bottle, and in
tasting servings. Largest selection of wines by the
glass in Dubrovnik with a very intimate, romantic
atmosphere, which is a change of pace from other
bars in the city.
Nonenina, Pred Dvorom 4, +385 91 333 0601.
Chill music lls this lounge bar at night, making it a
great place to unwind after a full day of sightseeing.
32.8.3 Clubs
Capitano, Pile. Various kinds of music from studio
54 to Croatian music. Low prices.
EastWest, Frana Supila bb (At the Banje beach
at the Ploce gate), +385 20 412 220, e-mail:
info@ew-dubrovnik.com. Beach club and night
club. In the day you can have drinks in the lounge
chairs, at night you can party in the nightclub.
Amazing view, various kinds of music, popular Djs
and beautiful atmosphere. Free entrance until mid-
night..
Factory, Put Republike (Gruz, 1 km from the cen-
tre. Bus station is situated just 20 m from the Club.).
Various kinds of music, many popular singers and
DJs.
Klub Orlando, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41 (5 min
walk along Branitelja Dubrovnika from the old
towns Pile Gate. At number 41, on the left, there is
a dark car park, belonging to the old hospital . Walk
into it, turn right, pass a small building, then ascend
a lot of steps.), +385 20 312 674. Dingy club,
predominantly metal but seems to cater for anything
deemed alternative. Cheap drink prices with occa-
sional international touring acts, denitely in the mi-
nority as a tourist here.
Latino Club Fuego, Brsalje b.b., Pile (just outside
the Pile gate). From May to October open every day
from 11:00-06:00. During the rest of the year it is
open on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays 11:00-
18:00. Usual 18-25 touristy bunch, and the music
is commercial RnB, house, dance, pop and techno.
Entry 40 kn per person with 1 drink included.
111
Lazareti (on the eastern entrance of the Old Town,
by the Ploce gate). house and techno music.
32.9 Sleep
Private rooms are a good option for those on a budget,
starting from around 10 per person for comfort and pri-
vacy exceeding those of hostels. The downside is that
they may be far from the Old Town, so make sure you
check the location. Owners letting out these rooms ac-
cost buses at the bus station, so you can ask around and
even bargain a little.
32.9.1 Budget
Camping Solitudo (Catch bus #7 from the main bus
station (every hour) directly or take bus #1 to the Old
Town Pile station and change to bus 6 (6 and 7, di-
rection: 'Babin Kuk')). 400 m walk to two beaches.
2 people in a tent: 200 kn.
Hostel Marker Dubrovnik-Old Town (in Old
Town-Pile Beach, 25 m from sea), +385 91 739
75 45, e-mail: apartmentslovrijenac@yahoo.com.
Marko the owner is a friendly and obliging guy with
a local philosophic attitude. He also oers holiday-
apartments with their own kitchen and private bath-
room. 15-40 per person.
Hostel Villa Micika Dubrovnik, Mata Vodopica
12 (in Lapad, 200 m walk to the beach. Take Bus
#6 from Pile or the bus station to Lapad post oce),
+385 20 437 332, e-mail: info@vilamicika.hr.
Funky, clean, character rooms, dorms, big shared
terrace. Free Internet with WiFi. All rooms have
TV with local and international channels, air-con
and bathrooms with shower cabin and WC. 15 low
season-38 high season.
1 Guest House Letizia, Radnicka St, ura Basar-
ieka 30 (in Gruz above the main city port. Go to
the Barcelys Hotel and then after hotel 20 m turn
on uphill street on left. A few steps above you will
nd the guest house), +385 98 9841801, e-mail:
guest.house.petrusic@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00,
check-out: 10:00. Free WiFi, a garden and a shared
terrace looking out to Gru Bay. Bright rooms with
wooden oors, some have a private balcony. Stone
barbecue on the terrace. Guests can also cook in a
shared open-plan kitchen, a dining table for 6 is pro-
vided, no extra charge is levied for those services.
35-40/ room.
Dubrovnik Backpackers Club, Mostarska 2d,
+385 20 435 375, e-mail: caravanica@gmail.com.
112
Awarded as best hostel in Croatia. Home turned into
a backpackers hot spot. Family run with location on
Lapad, popular after its beaches and green parks but
still just 10 min ride from old town and crowds. No
booking fee for booking through their website.
Youth Hostel Dubrovnik, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (20
min walk from the Old Town), +385 20 423 241.
Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 10:00. 82 beds. The
atmosphere leaves something to be desired, but its
usually lled with interesting people up for a chat on
the balcony. Dorm bed: 16.70.
32.9.2 Mid-range
Hotel Adriatic Dubrovnik, Masarykov put
9 (at the foot of Petka Hill, by the Adri-
atic Sea), +385 20 433 609, e-mail:
sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com. Check-in:
14:00, check-out: 11:00. Park and sea view rooms.
The city centre is reachable by bus.
Hotel Komodor, Masarykov put 5, La-
pad Bay, +385 20 433 673, e-mail:
sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.com. Check-
in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Swimming pool,
complimentary breakfast, free parking for hotel
guests and free WIFI in public spaces.
Hotel Neptun Dubrovnik, Kardinala Stepinca 31,
+385 20 440 100, fax: +385 20 440 200, e-mail:
sales@importanneresort.com. Renovated in 2008.
9-story tower with 79 rooms and 12 family suites,
all have air-con, a balcony with sea-view and free
WiFi.
Hotel Lero, Iva Vojnovica 14 (15 min walk from
Old Town), +385 20 341 333, fax: +385 20 332
123, e-mail: sales@hotel-lero.hr. Check-in: noon,
check-out: noon. Recently renovated city hotel with
155 contemporary designed rooms. Sea views and
equipped with regular three star amenities with air-
con. Free parking, free WiFi.
Hotel Petka, Obala Stjepana Radica 38 (in the Port
of Gruz), +385 20 410 500. Convenient for island
hopping. Clean air-con rooms, restaurant.
Hotel Splendid, Masarykov put 10, +385 20 433
633, e-mail: sales_splendid@hotelimaestral.com.
Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Hotel Splendid
is situated in a Mediterranean garden on a pebble
beach in Dubrovniks Lapad Bay.It oers free park-
ing for hotel guests, complimentary breakfast, free
wi- in public spaces.
CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK
Hotel Vis, Masarykov put 4, +385 20 433 605,
e-mail: sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com. Check-in:
14:00, check-out: 11:00. Hotel Vis is situated
on a pebble beach in Dubrovniks Lapad Bay.It
oers parking for hotel guests, complimentary
breakfast,wi- in public spaces.
Pension Stankovich, Matije Gubca 15 (at the en-
trance of Old Town), +385 98 182 7338.
Dubrovnik b&b, Frana Supila 1 (at the entrance of
Old Town), +385 91 201 55 91.
32.9.3 Splurge
Ariston Hotel, Kardinala Stepinca 31, +385
20 440 100, fax: +385 20 440 200, e-mail:
sales@importanneresort.com. 115 luxury sea and
garden view rooms a few miles from the Old Town
of Dubrovnik right along the Adriatic Sea.
Grand Villa Argentina, Frana Supila 14 (near the
Old Town), +385 20 475 777, fax: +385 20 440
533, e-mail: reservations@gva.hr.
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, Marijana Blaia 2,
+385 20 320 320. 5 star hotel near the entrance
of the Old Town and overlooking the ancient city
walls and fortresses. It was built in 1895 and has
139 rooms and 8 suites.
Hotel Bellevue, Pera ingrije 7 (1 km from Old
Town.), +385 20 330-300, fax: +385 20 330-100.
5 star hotel on a clitop overlooking the Adriatic, 93
rooms on 5 levels. Rooms have a modern nautical
themed decor with wooden ooring. Private beach,
spa and sauna.
Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, Masarykov put 20 (4.5
km from Old Town), +385 20 430 777. 5 star
hotel on a Lapad peninsula, below the park of little
Petka woods and with a view to the Elaphite islands.
Hotel Excelsior, F. Supila 12, +385 20 35 33 53.
5 star hotel of 146 bedrooms and 18 suites. Built in
1913 and completely renovated in 1998 overlooking
the Old City. Walking distance to the beaches and
Old City 2,000 kn.
Hotel Uvala, Masarykov put 6, La-
pad Bay, +385 20 433 608, e-mail:
sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com. Check-in:
14:00, check-out: 11:00. Conference and spa
facilities, swimming pools, parking for hotel guests
and WiFi in public spaces.
32.13. GO NEXT
Pucic Palace, Ulica Od Puca 1 (in the middle of the
Old Town across from Gundulic Square), +385 20
326 200, fax: +385 20 326 223. 19 room 5 star
hotel.
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik
Sun Gardens, Na moru 1, +385 20
361 500, fax: +385 2036 1503, e-mail:
reservations.dubrovnik@radissonblu.com. 5
star beachside resort, 15 km from the centre of
Dubrovnik.
32.10 Stay safe
Dubrovnik is a very safe city, though the usual pre-
cautions should be taken to protect yourself from
pick-pocketing.
The streets in the old town can be quite slippery as
they've been smoothed down for centuries by people
walking over them.
Stay legal
When entering a port, it is international protocol to
hoist a ag, meaning Ready for inspection by Cus-
toms.
In Croatia you must always have your headlights on
while operating a motor vehicle including all cars,
motorbikes and scooters during winter daylight sav-
ings time. Headlights are no longer required during
the day in the summer months, although many mo-
torists still leave them turned on.
32.11 Connect
Internet cafes
In Dubrovnik internet cafes are plentiful. Rates are gen-
erally 25 kn/hr.
Dubrovnik Travel Corner, Obala Stjepana Radica
40, +385 20 492 313, fax: +385 20 492 314, e-
mail: info@dubrovnik-travelcorner.com. Summer
08:00-22:00, winter: 09:00-15:00. You can book
tours, go online, leave your luggage or make inter-
national calls.
32.12 Cope
Hrvatski Autoklub, If you are stranded, have car
troubles, or need help contact HAK, +385 1 987.
113
ATMs, Keep in mind that there are few ATMs out-
side the Old Town.
Laundry
Most private accommodation do not oer laundry facili-
ties. If you are staying awhile and are looking for some-
where to wash your clothes then you might require a self-
service laundry
1 Sanja & Rosies Launderette Dubrovnik, Put
Od Bosanke 2 (Ploce Gate, just outside east entrance
to the Old Town), +385 99 254 6959. 09:00-
21:00. Self-service laundromat. Washing and dry-
ing machines are available. 50HRK.
1 Laundry SPIN Dubrovnik, Ulica Iza Grada
(Buza Gate, just outside), +385 98 170 1433.
08:00-21:00. Self-service laundromat. Washing
and drying machines are available. 50HRK.
Bites
32.13 Go next
Many destinations in Croatia can be accessed from
Dubrovnik with popular attractions including Split
and the Plitvice Lakes National Park as well as the
capital, Zagreb which is approximately a 10 hr drive
away (six hours if you travel outside the tourist sea-
son and take the new highway). Check out the
timetables at libertas Dubrovnik.
A popular shopping destination for locals, Neum in
Herzegovina (Bosnia and Herzegovina) oers many
cheap goods for frugal travellers. Buses heading be-
tween Split and Dubrovnik will often stop for a short
while here to collect various supplies.
Montenegro Daily buses operates from Dubrovnik
through to Kotor, Budva or Herceg Novi.
Ston is known for oysters and old salt ponds still in
use and the longest stone wall in Europe (5 km long).
Trsteno 15 century summer residence with renais-
sance garden.
Mostar in Bosnia is about 3 hr away by bus, and
makes for a good two day trip. The city has a much
stronger Turkish feel as opposed to Dubrovniks Ital-
ian.
Sarajevo is worth visiting as it is considered by some
as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.
114 CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK

A boat trip to the Elaphiti Islands (Koloep, ipan,

Lopud) is well worth while, with plenty of places to
swim, sh or relax.

Meugorje Visit the Shrine of Meugorje for a reli-

gious experience.

Mljet island. Green island with lakes and monaster-

ies.

Go on a wine tasting tour to Peljeac peninsula

Chapter 33

Klek

Klek is a village in Croatia, on the Dalmatian Coast. 33.5 Do

Above Klek, there is a mountain, Smrdelj, where one can
33.1 Understand climb up and see an excellent view of klek and neigh-
boring villages. Take a swim in the clear waters and try
your luck at shing! Snorkeling is a fun activity, you can
33.2 Get in nd sea urchins, sea cucumbers, crabs, and various sh.
There is a great outdoor pizzeria with a marble facade
with a great view of the beach and hosts live music.
The nearest airport is the Dubrovnik airport, which is an
hour and a half drive from Klek.

33.6 Buy
33.3 Get around
There are various souvenirs, a great buy is croatian laven-
der oil, which smells fantastic and wards o bugs. Ston,
Everything in Klek is walking distance, as it is a small, a nearby town has a sea salt renery, where you can buy
touristic village. the local sea salt.

33.4 See 33.7 Eat

There are lots of great pizzerias and fast food places, but
if a sit-down dinner is what you're after, skolj is a sea side
restaurant with excellent lignje, or squid. The Hotel Plaza
restaurant has an excellent restaurant on the beach with a
great selection of fresh seafood and an attentive sta.
Breakfast should always start o with a trip to either
of the bakeries, either one just 20 meters from the
beach. Bakeries have savoury breakfast specialties, such
as slance- delicious rolls with a salt topping. or pretzels,
or pite- phyllo dough stued with anything from cheese
to meat or potatoes. For a sweet breakfast treat, Krofne,
or doughnuts are the way to go.

View to the sea

There is a beautiful beach with white pebble with peo-
ple watching and paddle boats. Private beaches are a ten
minute walk away, or walk along the beach until you reach
an uninhabited area. There are tennis courts and a few
waterfront cafes. The ancient Konoba Kula was once a fa-
mous :"discoteka, or nightclub. Now a crumbling tower,
it is worth a look.
33.8 Drink
There plenty of cafes with local croatian beers- such as
karlovacko. bars also serve stronger drinks,including a
croatian specialty, orahnjaca, is a walnut liqueur which is
sweet and a great digestif, there is the bitter pelinkovac,
and rakija as well.

115
116 CHAPTER 33. KLEK

33.9 Sleep
There are many local apartments. Local people rent out
their apartments for tourists and you typically have your
own balcony, kitchen, bathroom, and multiple bedrooms.
There are also rooms rented out and a hotel.

Hotel Plaza.

33.10 Connect

33.11 Go next
Chapter 34
Komarna
Komarna is a village in Southern Dalmatia, Croatia.
Komarna, Croatia
34.1 Get in
By plane
Dubrovnik Airport is about 90 km south of Komarna.
From April to October, there are many direct ights
into Dubrovnik from all major European, UK and Ire-
land cities. Check Dubrovnik for more information
about ights. From Dubrovnik airport take direction
Dubrovnik. Pass Dubrovnik and continue on the main
road that runs along the coast direction Split. Komarna
is on the main road, just 70 km north of Dubrovnik. On
the main road, there is a sign indicating left turn into Ko-
marna.
Split Airport is located about 130 km north of Ko-
marna. From Split airport you can either take scenic
road that runs along the coast, direction Dubrovnik, or
take highway A1 direction Dubrovnik. Taking the high-
way will certainly be better choice during the summer
days, because the old road runs through busy villages
along the coast. Take highway A1 direction Dubrovnik,
get o the highway on junction Ravca. Take direction Vr-
gorac, Dubrovnik. Komarna is 65 km far from the high-
way junction Ravca, direction Dubrovnik.
117
34.2 Get around
Komarna is a little village, so the best way to get around
is on foot.
34.3 See
Komarna is a great base for sightseeing. Dubrovnik,
Ston, Peljesac peninsula, islands Brac, Hvar, Mljet nad
Korcula, Mostar, Medjugorje are all within one hour
drive from Komarna.
Archaeological Museum Narona is located in vil-
lage Vid, 25 km far from Komarna. This is the rst
in site museum, built on the archeological site it-
self. You can see remains of Augusteum - antic tem-
ple consecrated to emperor Augustus, dating from
10 B.C. Beside the temple, there are 16 monumen-
tal statues of emperor, his family and other powerful
Romans. The statue of Augustus is almost 3 m tall.
The Ornithological collection in Metkovi is one
of the greatest collection of its kind in Europe.
You can see over 340 stued birds who frequented
area of Neretva Valley. Neretva Valley was once a
swamp and this collection is a testimony to former
richness of the life in Neretva. Many of those birds,
do not come any more to Neretva Valley due to the
soil improvements, and they can only be seen in this
ornithological collection.
Slivno and Smrdan grad are ruins of villages in the
hills above Komarna. Those villages are today aban-
doned, but many local people still cultivate olive
trees there. From Komarna you can hike all the way
to Slivno and Smrdan Grad. The views over Pelje-
sac Bay are amazing.
34.4 Do
Swimming is the main activity while in Komarna.
118
Calm Adriatic sea
Hiking is another popular activity in Komarna.
There are many abandoned villages in the hills
around Komarna. Walking paths are clear and in-
dicated.
Speed boat ride if you have a proper licence can be
a great day out.
Motor boat ride can take you o to secluded
beaches in the bays and islands around Komarna.
Ladja Marathon. An amateur sport competition
of traditional vessels from Lower Neretva River held
since 1998 on second Saturday of August.
34.5 Buy
34.6 Eat
In Komarna there are two restaurants and one pizzeria.
One restaurant oers wide variety of dishes, while the
other restaurant being run by the local sherman and his
family oers mainly seafood. The prices are fair. There
are many restaurant in the area of Komarna. Restaurant
Duda i Mate in village Vid oers, among other dishes,
local specialities - eels and frogs! Ston is particularly fa-
mous for its oysters.
Restaurant Villa Bili, Komarna 26, . Serves variety
of meat and sh dishes.
Restaurant Djuda & Mate, in Vid, Metkovic, . A
restaurant located in village Vid, right by the river
Norin. Guests can choose among the variety of tra-
ditional Neretva dishes. Dishes are based on home-
grown organic food, specialties are prepared accord-
ing to the original Neretva recipes, and the most fa-
mous are eel and frog stew (brodetto), eels on the spit
and fried frogs. Warm and cold dishes can be served
on the traditional boats that will take you through
channels of Norin rivier.
CHAPTER 34. KOMARNA
34.7 Drink
34.8 Sleep
There is one small hotel and many apartments available in
Komarna. The hotel Villa Bili has both rooms and apart-
ments with one or two bedrooms. Many of the private
apartments may be rented through a Danish travel agency
Komarna Rejser who runs a site in English, Danish and
German.
Villa Dorida, +385 52 462 002. Komarna 98,
Apartment Tedo, +45 2349 5880.
Apartment Komarna (Komarna).
Apartmani Deak, +385 91 186 47 95. Nine
apartments.
34.9 Connect
34.10 Go next
Go shopping in Neum in Bosnia, only 8 km away.
Most of the products are cheaper than in Croatia due
to lower tax.
Embark on Neretva River Safari and taste local spe-
cialities aboard traditional Neretva boat.
Ston is famous for its fortication walls dating
from the 14th century, when Ston became part of
Dubrovnik republic. At 5.5 km long, and with 40
towers and 5 fortresses, they are the longest forti-
cation walls built in Europe. While there, taste the
famous Ston oysters.
If you are a wine lover, don't miss wine tasting tour
on Peljesac peninsula.
Visit Mostar in Bosnia with its Turkish houses and
UNESCO-protected Old Bridge.
Visit Catholic shrine Medugorje.
Mljet island is considered the greenest Croatian is-
land.
Old town Dubrovnik is not to be missed. It is an
hours drive away.
Chapter 35

Korula

Korula (pronounced 'KOR-chu-la') is an island in the
Adriatic Sea, in Southern Dalmatia, near Dubrovnik. Ac-
cording to some sources, Marco Polo may have been born
here.
35.1 Understand
Korula is also the name of the eastern-most town on the
island. Another town is Vela Luka, 43 km in the west, from Split Take the Jadrolinija ferry to Vela Luka (60kn
from where many ferries go. There are many small vil-
lages, including Blato, Smokvica, ara, Pupnat, rnovo,
Lumbarda and Raie all worth visiting if you have more
time to spend.
Korula is the most populated island in the Adriatic. It has
very good facilities for cycling with lots of small tracks
with spectacular view. Cycling on Korula is developing
fast since the island has a very mild winter therefore all
seasons are ideal for cycling.
35.2 Talk
Croatian is the local language, but English is spoken at
most restaurants, internet cafes, tourist information cen- from Bari, Italy 12 hours, (Marko Polo ferry)
ters and travel agencies. Italian is also widely understood,
especially among the elderly. Some people also speak from Hvar Take the Jadrolinija catamaran to Korula
German.
35.3 Get in
the ferry to Korula (it goes at 8:30 and at 17:30
costs: per person 5/ car 25/ motorcycle 10/
camping-bus 40). The camp is situated 500m
from there. Alternatively you can take the A1 to
Ploe, the D8 to Mali Ston and then cross Peljeac
to Orebi.
35.3.2 By ferry
per person; this ferry also takes cars), then take a bus
to Korula Town. Alternatively, take the Jadrolinija
catamaran directly to Korula town (one daily ser-
vice leaving Split at 17:00 and arriving in Korula
Town at 20:00, 80kn per person).
from Dubrovnik Take the Marko Polo (Jadrolinja)
ferry to Korula (80 kn).
from Dubrovnik Libertas bus to Orebi (14:15 every
day except Sunday) then passenger ferry from Ore-
bi to Korula (15 kn).
from Rijeka 10 hours, overnight (Marko Polo ferry),
210Kn
town (one daily service leaving Hvar at 18:45 and
arriving in Korula Town at 20:00, 50kn per per-
son, tickets available at the 'Pelegrini' travel agency
in Hvar next to the pier)

35.3.1 By car 35.3.3 By water taxi

From Dubrovnik Follow the coastal road (E65/D8) in If arriving on Orebi you can get yourself a ride on one
direction Split. Then you drive on the peninsula of the water taxis, or order a speed taxi boat that will get
Peljeac until Orebi. In Orebi you either take the you across the canal in under 7 minutes (Water express -
ferry to Domine (3 km east of Korula town) or water taxi service) 098 757043
leave your car and take a passenger-only ferry to Ko-
rula itself. The ferry goes every hour, except in the
night between 24-4 o clock. 35.3.4 By bus
From Split Follow the coastal road (E65/D8) in direc- From Zagreb There is a direct bus to Korula, which
tion Dubrovnik about 100 km. In Drvenik you take takes 10 hours.

119
120
From Dubrovnik There is a daily coach which takes
around 3 hours. Alternatively, you can take a
minibus run by Korkyra Info Travel Agency
which takes around 2 hours (150kn per person)
and picks you up directly from where you are stay-
ing in Dubrovnik. The minibus can take you from
Dubrovnik Airport to Korula for 225kn per per-
son. Korkyra can arrange a private transfer between
Dubrovnik and Korula if you prefer at 1050kn (per
vehicle) and can organise a stop en route on the Pel-
jeac peninsula at a winery in Potomje, a seafood
restaurant or Ston, the site of the second longest wall
in the world after the Great Wall of China.
From Belgrade There is a direct service all the way
from the capital of Serbia, normally three times a
week, during the summer season (late Juneearly
September).
From Sarajevo The Bosnian capital also has buses to
Korula.
35.4 Get around
Korula town is small enough to walk everywhere. The
layout of the town is quite simple, with a single avenue
as the spine bisecting the old town, and smaller roads
branching from this central avenue toward the sea. A
pedestrian avenue circles the old town as well.
It is possible to travel between towns on the island by bus,
car or taxi, and some taxi drivers will give guided tours
of the island.
There are a couple internal bus routes connecting Korula
town to other towns on Korula island. The Korula town
bus station is at the southeast corner of the Old Town.
to Zrnovo, Pupnat, Blato and Vela Luka Buses
depart Korula town bus station between 06:45 to
20:00: MSa 68 times daily (depending on sea-
son), just 3 times on Sunday. Check schedule for
date-specic schedule. Takes 1 hour and costs 43
kn to cross the entire island to Vela Luka.
to Lombarda or Car Ferry Terminal, approxi-
mately hourly from 07:0018:45 MSa, just 4 times
from 10:0018:45 on Sunday. Check schedule for 35.5.2 Further Aeld
date-specic schedule. Takes 15 minutes and costs
25 kn.
Bike rentals are available in old town. If you intend to cy-
cle between towns, ask for route recommendations when
renting: they may recommend lesser-known Napoleonic
roads and other trails that are both easier and safer for
bikers than the main trans-island highway.
If visiting coastal villages its best done with a water-taxi
since Korula has a big archipelago with many small is-
CHAPTER 35. KORULA
lands well worth seeing (Water-express water taxi service
098 757043).
35.5 See
35.5.1 Korula Old Town
Korulas Old Town is small and can be seen pretty thor-
oughly in a few hours.
1 St Marks Cathedral Tower (Cathedral Sveti
Marko) (center of Korula town). The bell tower,
while not particularly tall on its own, sits at the high-
est point of Korulas old town and oers spectacu-
lar views of the citys red-tile roofs and of ships in
the blue water. Better than the Marco Polo tower,
which is shorter. Steps only, no elevator. To visit
the interior of the cathedral is a separate admission
fee and nothing special. 20 kn for tower, 20 kn for
cathedral interior. (updated Oct 2016)
1 Marco Polos House (Kua Marka Pola), ul.
Depolo. AprJun and SepOct 09:0015:00, Jul
Aug 09:0021:00. Tourists can visit what the town
claims is the birthplace of famed explorer Marco
Polo (Venice, Constantinople, and Korula all claim
this; Marco Polos House was built at least a cen-
tury after he died!) 20 kn. (updated Sep 2016)
1 Town Museum Korula (Gradski muzej Ko-
rula), Trg. Sv. Marka (facing Saint Marks cathe-
dral), +385 20 711 420, e-mail: info@gm-
korcula.com. JanMar OctDec 10:0013:00,
AprJun 10:0014:00, JulSep 09:00-21:00, closed
Sundays. Good overview of the islands and towns
history: Includes exhibits on limestone carving, Ko-
rulas shipbuilding industry, and an example mer-
chants house from old times. Ask how to use your
smartphone as a free audio guide. Outside, in the
square, notice the limestone post with chains that
used to be used to punish criminals. 20 kn, children
under 14 free. (updated Sep 2016)
1 Cypress-lined stairway on Sveti Antun Hill, in
the Sveti Antun suburb of Korula (25 minutes walk
or 5 minutes drive from Korula old town). Climb an
avenue of 102 steps, lined with regal cypress trees,
to reach the hilltop chapel of Sveti Atun. Entrance
to the chapel itself is usually locked but windows al-
low you to clearly look into the interior at all hours.
Views from the hilltop are good, but the cypress
staircase is really the highlight of this destination.
free. (updated Sep 2016)
35.7. EAT 121

1 Big Cave (Vela Spila), Vela Luka. (updated at each other with real swords: sparks y and some-
Oct 2016) times a dancer gets hurt but they nevertheless stick
it out because the dance is so tightly choreographed.
Almost as impressive is the woman who narrates the
35.6 Do story before the show uently in ve dierent lan-
guages. 100 kn. (updated Oct 2016)
35.6.1 Beaches & Nature
Korkyra Baroque Festival, In various buildings in
If you are the relaxed traveler looking for a quiet getaway, Korula town.. An annual series of concerts show-
its possible to soak up the sun on some of Croatias most casing a selection of Europes leading ensembles and
beautiful beaches. Some of the beaches on the island are soloists specialized in Baroque music. Ten or so
quite liberal, with fully nude sunbathers. evening concerts are held over a period of two weeks
in early September (317 September 2016) along
It is important to recognize that most of Croatias beaches
with a series of supporting events. Along with the
are quite rocky, so it is imperative to wear the correct
festivals high artistic credentials the event also pro-
footwear. If you plan to swim, wear shoes or swim ns in
motes the richness of Korulas cultural monuments
the waterthere are many sea urchins!
and the whole town as a unique architectural trea-
The beaches on Korula oer gorgeous views of the sure. (updated Jun 2016)
karstic coastal ranges. One can see the nearby coastal
village of Orebi as well. There are two sandy beaches
on Korula, just to the east of the village of Lumbarda,
one on the north coast and one on the south coast at the
35.7 Eat
narrowest point on the island.
There are plenty of restaurants on the island, ranging from
traditional Adriatic fare to Italian inuences.
Rent a kayak (theres a booth at the beach on the
west side of old town) Don't leave Korula without trying local dishes such as
brodet (sh stew), paticada (Dalmatian stewed beef),
Rent or buy a snorkel, mask, and swim ns and go rnovski makaruni (beef with thin, long pieces of pasta)
snorkeling around the island. Or, rent the kayak and pogaice (baked scones). In addition, peka is a deli-
and snorkel set and go paddle to some of the islands cious Dalmatian dish of meat and vegetables slow-cooked
around Korula and snorkel there! Recommended is in the replace; you can nd it at local restaurants, but
the southeast coast of Badija islandthere is a nice you usually must call in the order a day in advance since
small beach for your kayak and some lovely snorke- it takes a long time to prepare.
ling. Local desserts include klaun (shortbread pastry lled
with chopped nuts), cukarin (cookies), and prikle (deep-
Local shops oer bike rentals (9-12 Euro/day) if you fried dough, popular throughout southern Dalmatia).
choose to ride around the island.

1 Koje Rock Formations (Follow signs to Zrnovo. 35.7.1 Korula Old Town
Continue straight through Brdo; the road turns to
gravel.). High up, in the interior of the island, is
this nature preserve of massive limestone rock for-
mations and chasms. Its a bit tricky and a lot of
fun to climb on them. No equipment needed except
good shoes. Legend tells of fairies living here. Free.
(updated Oct 2016)
35.6.2 Culture
There are two nightclubs.
Moreka Sword Dance (inquire at tourist booths for
location). Fridays in summer 21:00. Moreka is
sword dance that stages a battle over the fate of a
young maiden. Korula is the only place where this
formerly Moorish dance remains in the world, and
Korulans take it seriously! About 16 guys really go
Konoba Maslina, Korula Old Town (As you en-
ter the Old Town, heading northwards, turn right af-
ter going up the steps to the Great Land Gate (Velki
Revelin)), +385 91 517 7420. This eatery serves
simple, yet delicious local food, such as paticada
(Dalmatian stewed beef) and pogaice (deep-fried
dough), at very reasonable prices (50-60kn for a
main dish). The portions are very generous and the
service is amazingly friendly. Its menu mainly con-
sists of meat dishes, not seafood. Drinks are around
10-15kn (for example, 15kn for 0,5l of beer). Don't
miss out on the homemade local style cakes for
desert (15kn for one portion).
Konoba Adio Mare, Sv. Roka 2, Korula Old
Town, +385 (0) 20 711253 and 098 243845.
Delicious and reasonably priced Dalmatian cuisine.
122 CHAPTER 35. KORULA

The outdoor terrace is often full of tourists. English Grk is only grown and made around Lumbarda (a
and German spoken. village 7 km from Korula Town). You won't nd it
in stores; nicer restaurants will have it. Otherwise,
Konoba Marinero, Korula Old Town your best bet is to follow signs for any of the Grk
vineyards on the main road on either side of Lum-
barda. Pride in this local grape is so intense that
Konoba Mareta, Korula Old Town
all the winemakers here produce quality wine. Its
worth the hunt!
Restaurant Kanaveli, Korula Old Town - Sveta
Barbara 12, tel: (020) 711800, 711078 Because the grk vine has only female owers, the plavac
mali grape (literally, little blue) is usually planted
nearby to pollinate nearby grk. Although the adjacent
35.7.2 Rest of Korula island
Peljeac Peninsula is more famous for plavac mali, Ko-
Fishermans Evenings (Ribarska Veer) (check rula vineyards produce good plavac mali red wines too.
with the tourist oce for exact schedule and loca-
tions). The towns of Brna (some Fridays), Lom- Vinum Bonum (on Punta Jurana, a small side-
barda (Saturdays), and Vela Luka (Sundays) all host street just west of the harbor, Korula town). This
summertime outdoor block parties focused around small winebar is a great place to sample all the local
local cuisine and tradition. For 5060kn you can get wines and liquors. Knowledgeable and helpful sta.
a big plate of a variety of fresh sh from local sher- Tapas. 830kn for a glass of wine. (updated Sep
men. You can also buy local desserts and maybe see 2016)
some traditional dance. Free admission. (updated
Sep 2016)
35.9 Sleep
Restaurant Fresh - Kod Kina Liburna
Kaleta booking centre. Right in the middle of
Restaurant Grubinjac - Grubinjac, Zrnovo, Island town, across Old Town main gate, oers it all:
of Korula rooms, apartments, transfers, excursions, the lot.
Friendly young sta will take good care of you.
Konoba Malta - Sveti Antun
Camping Kamp Kalac. 20 min walking from Ko-
rula town, directly at the beach. There is a small
Konoba Mijo, Pupnatska Luka, +385 98 168 taxi boat between the harbour of Korula and the
5047. Campsite/Hotel, operating twice an hour, for 10 Kn.

Restoran Planjak, Korula - Plokata 19. travnja
1921 tel: (020) 711015, 711202
Pizzeria Cinciculjak, Nova Riva - (020) 715822
Marco Polo Mistique, Restaurant and Cafe, Nova
Riva
Buet Tramonto, Korula - Ismaelli 12, tel : 098
1921048
Konoba Mate, Pupnat, Korula Island
35.8 Drink
Hostel Dragans Den is located 1015 minutes
from Korula town centre and a short walk away
from sandy beaches. The hotel is well-suited for a
couple or a larger group. Equipped with en-suite
bathrooms and kitchens. There is free Internet ac-
cess as well and a swimming pool. The owner, Dra-
gan, oers frequent free lifts in his minibus if you
want to travel to Korula town, cli jumping, or the
beach.
Marias Place is right in the center of town, steps
from the cathedral. It has three double rooms with
ensuite bathrooms, wi, and a refrigerator. It is a
good, nice, clean, quiet place for the budget traveler.
Rooms from 20-35 Euro/person/night, depending
on the season.

Korula is best known for its two dry white wines, grk and
poip, which are not grown anywhere else in the world: 35.10 Stay safe
Poip is a light-bodied dry white wine from Be very cautious about renting boats if you would like to
Smokvica and ara in the middle of the island. spend time travelling between the small islands around the
35.11. GO NEXT 123

coast. Some of these boats are not well maintained and

if you have little experience, you could easily suer an
engine failure. In this case you will need to be rescued by
the company and this may take a long time, wasting your
time and potentially putting you in danger as you drift!
At least one of these companies (Korkyra Info) will not
refund you fully in the case that this happens, despite the
fact that this is a relatively common occurrence.

35.11 Go next
Mljet (pronounced 'mil-yet') is one of nine Croatian
National Parks. It is the greenest island in the Adri-
atic, with two salt lakes and a small island with a
monastery on the big lake. A perfect getaway to get
in touch with nature, Mljet is a must see if you visit
the Dubrovnik county. Day trip excursions to Mljet
from Korula are organised by many travel agencies.

Mediterano Travel Agency can provide a re-

turn boat journey between Korula Town and
Mljet or an excursion including a guide.
Korkyra Info Travel Agency oers an excur-
sion (with a guide and including the National
Park entrance fee) for 420kn.
Korula Adventures oers an excursion
to Mljet by luxury yacht (guide, lunch,
snorkelling gear and National Park entrance fee
included) for 525kn per person.

Orebi (pronounced 'O-re-bich') is just a twenty

minute ferry ride away. It is a picturesque coastal
village with lovely beaches and fantastic views of
the Adriatic. Ferries depart Korula Town multi-
ple times per day, depending on season. In Orebi,
tourists can sample local crafts and Adriatic cuisine.
The restaurants oer a seafront atmosphere and the
best octopus salad you ever tasted!
Chapter 36

Lumbarda

Lumbarda is a village on the island of Korula in the 36.5 Buy

Dalmatia region of Croatia.
Food and drinks are available at Konzum in village center
and Studenac (cheaper one) just 150 meters towards with
36.1 Get in main road from the village center. Tisak kiosk at center
during the summer season oers a great variety of news-
papers and magazines from all over the world as well as
36.2 Get around call-cards and other. Souvenirs available at Pelorus travel
and souvenirs shop 100 meters from center towards the
36.3 See harbour.

36.4 Do
36.6 Eat
Neilson Active Holidays. Have a beach club and
yacht base which oers windsurng, dinghy sailing, Lina Restaurant oers la carte menus, board meals, buf-
mountain biking and yachting. Their prices usually fet breakfast, dinner and supper, 3 menus oered. There
include accommodation and ights from the UK, is a Dalmatian evening held once a week, where we oer
though it is possible to arrange a stay without inclu- Dalmatian music and gastronomic specialities. There is
sive ights. also a dancing evening on the restaurant terrace once a
week, from July 1st until September 1st. Newly opened
Pelorus travel & rental agency. A small travel pizzeria Lina, next to the restaurant Lina, oers wide
agency located about 100 meters from the village range of excellent bakers oven pizzas. More is small fam-
center oer equipment rental and excursions. Rent a ily run restaurant located just on sea level. Daily fresh sh
kayak (200 kn per day for a TriYak). Rent a snorkel, and seafood, meat specialty from grill, one of the very
mask, and swim ns (25 kn/day or 110 kn/week) and best places servicewise.
go snorkeling around the island. Or, rent the kayak
and snorkel set and go paddle to some of the 14 is-
lands in front or Lumbarda and snorkel there! Rec-
ommended is the southeast coast of Barija island 36.7 Drink
there is a nice small beach for your kayak and some
lovely snorkeling.
There are four bars in Lumbarda.
Rent a bicycle (7-12 Euro/day) and ride around the
island.
Maestral - spacious, used to be restaurant for older
Excursion to Mljet is organised daily. Mljet is the and local crowd.
greenest island in the Adriatic, has one of nine Croa-
tian national parks, two salt lakes and a small island
Mot calmer caf with good ice-cream and nice lit-
with a monastery on the big lake. A perfect getaway
tle terrace.
to get in touch with nature, Mljet is a must see if you
visit the Dubrovnik county. You can also get a re-
turn trip to Mljet by a speed boat it takes cca. 30-35 Aqua used to be the hip place on the island, now a
minutes to get to Mljet (250kn return trip) or with younger crowd hang out.
old-style wooden boat (it takes cca 90 minutes and
cost about 200 kn). Birex new cocktail bar at the village marina.

124
36.9. GO NEXT 125

36.8 Sleep
There are two hotels in Lumbarda: Hotel Lumbarda (3
star) and Hotel Borik (2 star). There are also Lina Apart-
ments and numerous apartments in private accommoda-
tion.

36.9 Go next
Chapter 37

Mljet

37.1.1 Landscape
Over 72% of the island of 388 square miles is forest.
The islands geological structure consists of limestone and
dolomite forming ridges, crests and slopes. A few depres-
sions on the island of Mljet are below sea level and are
known as blatine (mud-lakes) or slatine (salt-lakes).
During the rain seasons all blatine are lled with water,
and they turn to brackish during dry seasons.

37.1.2 Climate
The climate is Mediterranean; an average air temperature
convent in January is 48F (9C) and in July about 75F (24C).

37.1.3 National Park entrance fee

Otok Mljet (pronounced 'mil-yet') , in Southern
Dalmatia, is one of the larger islands in o the coast of
Southern Croatia. Although many people live on the is-
land (mainly in the port of Sobra on the east end), the
west end port of Polae holds the entrance to the national
park of Mljet. This park includes an inland sea and an-
other small island nested within it, and is a must-see for
visitors.
There is an entrance fee of 125kn per person to enter
the Mljet National Park. If you are joining an excursion
organised by a travel agency to Mljet, it may not include
this entrance fee, so make sure you check before booking.
37.2 Get in

37.2.1 By boat
Sobra (east-end) and Polae (west-end) serve as ferry
ports for the island.
37.1 Understand
From Dubrovnik
Mljet was originally one of the Roman possessions (in-
deed, Polae means palace and holds some Roman ru- The Nona Ana catamaran operates twice daily from
ins). Over the course of history, the isle traded hands Dubrovnik to Sobra and Polae on Mljet island. Tick-
with the rest of the Balkans (to the Ottomans, the Austro- ets are 54kn one way per person. Polae is nearer the
Hungarians, etc.) It was even promised to Italy at one National Park than Sobra.
point in the early 20th century. Once the Kingdom of
the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes was declared, the Island From the Peljeac peninsula
became part of that group.
Ancient Greeks called the island Melita, or honey, There is car ferry operating ve times a day between
which over the centuries evolved to become the Slavic Prapratno on the Peljeac peninsula and the port of Sobra
name, Mljet. on Mljet island.

126
37.4. SEE 127

From Split 37.3.2 By bike

There is car ferry from Split on Saturday and speed boat Mountain bikes can be rented in Pomena and Polae.
from Lastovo on Tuesday and Thursday. This is a good way to get to and explore the National Park.
However due to the islands size, topography, and road
From Korula conditions, its not realistic to expect to also explore the
central and eastern parts of the island by bike from the
west end.
From Korula you can get to Sobra on Mljet island by car
ferry operated by Jadrolinija on Mondays and Fridays.
The ferry leaves Korula Town at 2pm and arrives at So-
bra at 4:15pm. Note that Sobra is some distance from 37.4 See
the National Park, which is located on the western side
of Mljet island. Alternatively, join a day trip excursion Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet). The
from Korula organised by a travel agency: two lakes (jezera) and the monastery on the island
in the middle of the large lake (veliki jezera). Boats
Kantun Tours organises an excursion to Mljet by leave for the monastery every hour or so, check the
speed boat (the journey is around 30 minutes one- timetables within the national park. The monastery
way) for 250kn per person return (not including the was previously a hotel until it was damaged in 1991
90kn entrance fee to the National Park). and now houses a cute restaurant called Melita.
90kn. (updated Sep 2016)
Mediterano Travel Agency can provide a return
boat journey between Korula Town and Mljet for Saplunara beaches (Start at Saplunara Bay then
180kn per person or an excursion (including a guide work your way to Blace beach). There are three
and the National Park entrance fee) for 360kn per sandy beaches within Saplunara, starting with the
person. bay itself. The bay is slightly overlooked, but as
you work through, you eventually got to Blace beach
Korkyra Info Travel Agency oers an excursion which is 1/2 mile long and secluded among stones of
(with a guide and including the National Park en- Mljet southern shores. This hidden bay and beach
trance fee) for 350kn per person. is surrounded by pine trees, faces South and looks
like a lagoon. The entrance from the sea to Blace
Korula Adventures oers an excursion to Mljet
beach is only 8 metres wide so the sea water inside
by luxury yacht (guide, lunch, snorkelling gear and
the lagoon gets very warm and is possible to swim
National Park entrance fee included) for 450kn per
here even at the times when sea water outside is still
person.
cold and not suitable for swimming. Because of its
isolated location, Blace Beach and Bay is popular
37.2.2 By plane among naturist and nudists too. Out of season, a lot
of debris collects on the beach and is not cleaned
The island of Mljet has no airport. Dubrovnik Airport on making it signicantly less appealing.
the mainland provides the main international connection
for the island.
37.5 Do
37.3 Get around Swim around, snorkel and try to nd the large mussels
(about 2 feet long) in the smaller lake (malo jezero).
37.3.1 By car
X-Dream, Polace 8 (Directly on the sea, close to the
There is only one major road on the island which runs harbour), +385998092244. 8-22. Local com-
through or near most cities. The road is paved, but con- pany for bicycle and kayak rental. They have a good
dition is only fair. Speed limit is usually 40 kph. For most service and very professional sta. 100 Kuna. There
of its length, the road has long uphill or downhill includes. is a whole number of similar companies along the
coast street in Polace.
If you come without a car, you can rent one at several
local agencies: Rappel or Swim to Odysseus / Ulysseys Cave,
Odysseuss cave is situated under the village of
MiniBrum has a rental oce at the Sobra ferry ter- Babino Polje. (Pull over on the road parallel to
minal. They rent a variety of small, often cutely dec- Babino Polje then its a 20 minute walk towards the
orated, cars. In our case, a small diesel Fiat for two south coast from there.). A large egg shaped cave in
days was about 120 plus fuel. the rocky coastline, accessed by a 30 metre tunnel
128
used as a harbour by local shermen. Legend has
it that Odysseus found his shelter here after surviv-
ing a shipwreck, hence the name. He supposedly
was shipwrecked here and due to the beauty of the
islands nature and his love for the nymph Calipso,
Odysseus stayed on the island for 7 years. When the
sun gets to the highest point, the water illuminates
in a fantastic way. Theres also some gravity defy-
ing, quite amusing grati around the rocks. There
are two entrances: one from the seaside (swimming)
and the other one from on high (rappelling). As you
walk along the path towards the cave, look out for
the cute road sign painting on the rocks! Once you're
near the cave, its a natural beauty and popular for
rappelling. Free.
Follow the hiking trail up to Veliki Grad, the highest
mountain of Mljet (ca. 500m). The trail starts in
Babino Polje.
37.6 Buy
37.7 Eat
There are several places to eat out in Pomena, around the
harbour. Most appear to cater to the yachting fraternity
and specialise in very fresh sh; live seafood are kept in
tanks next to each restaurant. Theres also a great restau-
rant between the harbour and the hotel. It looks like its
a private house but with a large barbecue area built on,
and it does excellent barbecued sh. Besides that, there
are several restaurants in villages Polae, Soline and in
Babine kue. There is also restaurant on the island of St.
Mary.
37.8 Drink
Theres not a lot of nightlife in Pomena; the hotel has Saturday, and with car ferry from Sobra on Monday,
an inside bar with a cheesy band, and an outside shack Wednesday and Saturday. There is speed boat from So-
that sells drink. Its best for a quiet getaway rather than a bra and Polae to island Lastovo on Tuesday and Thurs-
party!
Vila Mungos, Sobra 35, +38520745224, e-mail:
komar.d.o.o@du.t-com.hr.
37.9 Sleep
Bourbon Hostel and Rooms Polace, Polace 8,
+385 99 8092244. In the centre of the National
Park Mljet, only 5m from the beach and only 150m
from the main ferry port.
CHAPTER 37. MLJET
Hotel Odisej (In the centre of the National Park Ml-
jet), +385 20 475 777, fax: +385 20 475 973, e-
mail: info@hotelodisej.hr. Overpriced, dilapidated
hotel with a perfect location. Could be fantastic, but
seems to have barely been touched since the seven-
ties, complacent with being the only hotel on the is-
land and within the National Park. There may not
be many places on the island that advertise online,
but there is plenty of accommodation on the island,
no doubt cheaper and better than this.
Stermasi, Saplunara 2, Maranovici (Go to Saplu-
nara on the far east of the island and fol-
low the big signs!), +385 20746179, e-mail:
astrit.stermasi1@du.t-com.hr. Check-in: 15:00,
check-out: 10:00. Accommodation on the far east
of the island near the warm waters of Blace beach.
Run by the Stermasi family, who seem to be expand-
ing the number of places, each room has a personal
touch to the decoration and with the excellent restau-
rant attached, its a place to stay to explore a dier-
ent side to the island. 40-75.
Vila Mungos, Sobra 35, +38520745224, e-mail:
komar.d.o.o@du.t-com.hr.
37.10 Stay safe
37.11 Go next
On summer days speed boat goes from the port of Sobra
to Dubrovnik every day at 6:15AM (Tuesday and Thurs-
day at 6:00) and at 17:35. From port of Polae speed boat
goes every day at 4:55PM From Sobra car ferry goes ev-
ery day to Prapratno (peninsula Peljeac) at 6:00, 9AM
and at 12:00, 16:00, 19PM (on Sunday and holiday goes
at 10AMn not at 9:00).
With speed boat you can also go to island Korula from
Polae and Sobra on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and
day.
To Split you can go from Sobra with car ferry on Saturday.
Chapter 38

Orebi

Orebi is a port town in Dalmatia.

38.1 Understand

38.2 Get in

38.2.1 By car

It is 67 kilometres from the main coastal Split-Dubrovnik

road (the scenic Adriatic Highway), 227 km from Split
and 113 km from Dubrovnik. Alternative from Split is
A1 motorway towards Rave and Ploe (then it is 248
km from Split to Orebi). There is ferry service from
Ploe to Trpanj (on Peljeac peninsula), which can be
38.2.4 By air
used to shorten car driving from Split (to 136 i.e. 157
The nearest airports are in Dubrovnik and Split. For more
km) and enjoy 50 minutes of sailing in beautiful scenery.
information visit Dubrovnik Airport or Split Airport
For timetable and prices of ferry service visit Jadrolinija.

38.2.2 By bus 38.3 Get around

There are regular, scheduled bus services from The easiest way to navigate this small town is by foot. The
Dubrovnik, Split and Zagreb. For timetable and older part of the town straddles the coastline and a very
prices visit Central Bus Station Dubrovnik, Bus Station pleasant walk connects the main beach at Trstenica (on
Split or Zagreb Bus Station. the Dubrovnik side of Orebi) to the main ferry terminal.
For a faster moving, the option is to hire bicycle or scooter
in one of the tourist agencies.
38.2.3 By boat There are three main daily connections to Korula:

Jadrolinijas (Croatias national ferry company) Rijeka -

1. Car ferry (also takes foot passengers), which leaves
Dubrovnik service stops in nearby Korula (this line also
you at port Domine, approximately 3-4 kms from
serves Split, Stari Grad (island Hvar) and Mljet). There
Korula old town - this is more suited to mo-
are also high-speed ferry services to Korula from Split
torists/cyclists.
(stops in Hvar) and Dubrovnik. From Korula there is
a short hop over to Orebi by car ferry, passenger ferry 2. Passenger ferry, which leaves you directly at Korula
or taxi boat (latter driving from June to September). For old town.
timetable and prices for ferry service visit Jadrolinija and
for high-speed services Krilo and Gv-line. Information 3. Taxi boat (from June to September), which also
about taxi boats one can get on the spot in ports. Usually leaves you in Korula old town.
they drive all day long. They take only passengers (some
take bicycles too) and have acceptable prices (12 kunas Prices for passengers are same in all three options (12
or 1,5 euro per person). kunas or cca 1,5 euro).

129
130
There is a local bus service throughout the peninsula
with buses to Lovite and Trpanj as well as services to
Dubrovnik & Zagreb.
38.4 See
Franciscan monastery (great panoramic view) -
you can drive or hike to the monastery. To get there,
follow the Viganj/Loviste road out of Orebic (at the
western side of the town) and at the Hotel Villa
Julija, take the small road to the right - this is clearly
sign-posted. Please be aware that the incline the en-
tire length of this road is steep and careful driving
is advised. However, the view from the monastery
really is breathtaking. If you are going this far, you
should enquire about eating at Panorama (read more
in Eat section).
Karmen
Mount Eliah (Sveti Ilija) 961 m
Gornja Nakovana
Donja Nakovana with Nakovana cave
Old captains houses
Drinking fountains
Maritime museum at promenade.
38.5 Do
Boat excursions. Beside trip to Korula city (de-
scribed in section Get around), there are numer-
ous dierent options for boat excursions. Speci-
cally, there are prearranged trips and, on the other
side, there are arrangements in which one can hire
boat for a half or full day trip or even for hour or
two. These arrangements can include sailing around
or visiting one or more islands or islets in Korula
archipelago (has 19 of them). Then they can include
swimming in the crystal blue sea around islands or
in Lumbarda, village on Korula island with beauti-
ful sandy beaches. If one chooses prearranged ex- 38.8 Drink
cursion, it can be organized without or with food
(sh picnics), and if one chooses to arrange his trip Famous Dinga and Postup (red) wine, Travarica (tradi-
by himself, there is option to enjoy meal with nice tional Brandy with herbs)
atmosphere in restaurant on Stupe island or in one
of the restaurants in Lumbarda. For more informa-
tion on islands and islets of Korula archipelago visit
koji For more information about excursions ask in
tourist agencies or go to Luica (Little harbor) and
arrange your trip directly with taxi boat drivers.
CHAPTER 38. OREBI
Wind surng in nearby Kuite (Perna) and Viganj
Wine tasting
Biking. For information about cycling possibilities
around Orebi see Cycling paths section in Tourist
routes Orebi
Hillwalking. Hillwalkers can tackle the majestic
Mount Ilija and be rewarded with stunning panora-
mas from its peak. There are numerous marked
paths starting in Orebi, Viganj and Kuite. For
more information and map see Orebi - Hiking and
mountain paths section at Tourist routes Orebi
Watersports
Sailing
Scuba diving. For information about diving in Ore-
bi area read Diving section in Tourist routes Orebi
. In Orebi there is Scuba diving center Adriatic . In
Trstenik (25 km from Orebi) there is Diving center
S 57. Sites have information about center, service,
locations for diving and prices.
38.6 Buy
Regional wines, spirits and olive oil.
38.7 Eat
Amfora (at promenade, seaview).
Petica (In Orebi Harbour). A very nice fast food
Panorama (nearby Franciscan monastery). This
rustic konoba (restaurant) serves up traditional Dal-
matian dishes including prsut (ham) and cheeses,
large casseroles served under the bell (you will
need to order these in advance as they need to be
cooked for several hours in advance under the em-
bers of a large open re) and true dishes (the pasta
dish is a real treat). The view (as the name of the
restaurant suggests) is spectacular.
Meteor. 07-24.
Best.
X2. 07-24.
38.11. GO NEXT 131

Luica, Franjo Tuman shore. 08-01. works only

in season
Bubamara. 07-24.

Zona. 07-24.
Palomino, Franjo Tuman shore.

38.9 Sleep
Tourism is one of the towns most important indus-
tries and there is a plethora of accommodation available.
Many locals rent out rooms (sobe) in their homes or full
apartments. Most of this accommodation is within a short
walking distance of the towns beaches and you will see
signs outside accommodation advertising rooms or apart-
ments. Do not be afraid to bargain! There are also many
well-equipped camp sites in and around the town which
also cater to camper vans. Orebic is also home to a num-
ber of hotels including the

Apartments Helena, A.Tina Ujevia 1, comfort-

able, 330 ft from next beach

Hotel Indijan, kvar 2, 20250 Orebi, +385

20 714 555, fax: +385 20 714 567, e-mail:
indijan@indijan.hr.

Villa Antonio is an imposing guesthouse located in

Postup (famous for its red wine) only a 5 minute
drive from Orebic. Villa Antonio has exceptional
views across the Peljesac Channel to the island of
Korcula, as well as stunning views of Mount Il-
ija. Perched among rows of vines, it also features
a large swimming pool (completed in 2009) and a
full evening buet dinner.

Apartments Jakov, Kerina 7, +385 915329638.

Newly renovated, old stone house, two apartments,
one for up to four persons and one for two persons.

Hotel Adriatic, etalite Kneza Domagoja 8,

+385 20 714 488.

38.10 Connect

38.11 Go next
Day trips to Korula (15 min.), Hvar, Mljet, Dubrovnik
(1.5-2 hrs), Split (3 hrs), Narona/Vid, Mostar or Sara-
jevo. If you want to nd out what Napoleon searched
for, or what were the words of Jacques Cousteau when he
dived in these waters, you are gonna have to come and
check it out.
Chapter 39

Ploe

Ploe is a town on the Adriatic coast just north of the Be aware that the train from Sarajevo might have delays
Neretva River delta in the Dubrovnik-Neretva County of so you won't always be in time for a connection you plan.
Dalmatia.

39.1.3 By boat
39.1 Get in With Jadronlinija to/from Trpanj on the Peljeac penin-
sula, one hour.
Ploce has a population of approximately 6,500 inhabi-
tants. It is a notable seaport. The most important fea-
ture of town is his natural position through the valley of
the Neretva River, which connects the central areas of
39.2 Get around
neighboring Bosnia and Herzegovina with the Adriatic
Sea. Town is situated in approximately half of distance 39.3 See
between Split and Dubrovnik on the part of the road traf-
c along the Adriatic coast.
It is also worth to mention that near the town are Bacina 39.4 Do
Lakes, located along the branches of the mountain of
Biokovo. This commercial port is a great jumping-o point
for tours to the old city of Mostar in Bosnia.

39.1.1 By train
39.5 Buy
Trains from Sarajevo to Ploe:

07:00, arriving in Ploe at 11:00, via Mostar at 39.6 Eat

09:30

18:18, arriving in Ploe at 22:06, via Mostar at 39.7 Drink

20:40
39.8 Sleep
for valid timetable look at http://www.hznet.hr/timetable,
at bahn.de this connection was not found
39.9 Go next
39.1.2 By bus
Buses from Dubrovnik to Ploe run regularly from
Dubrovnik (2-2h). Every hour, day & night, so you
should have no problem nding one. Some info is here
(note they are from Dubrovnik!) but there are more
buses.
To Split you need some two hours.
To Mostar its two, to Sarajevo its four hours by bus, which
runs approx four times a day.

132
Chapter 40

Ston

Ston is a town in Dalmatia, Croatia. 40.2 Get in

You can book an excursion from Dubrovnik.

40.3 Get around

40.4 See

Panorama of Ston

40.1 Understand

In order to know Peljeac as an unique and historical

entity, it is best to start with Stonska Prevlaka (Ston
Isthmus), the single connection with the mainland. Re-
cessed among hills, it extends 1.5 km between the south-
ern and northern coasts. Archaeological nds here show
that Mediterranean and Balkan cultural groups were both
present, and in prehistory an exchange of goods took
place by land and sea. This area has attracted streams
of men and merchants from the mountainous interior and
the open Adriatic Sea. The Tabula Peutingeriana, the rst
geographical map of the Adriatic from ancient Rome,
shows a fort at this locations with the name of Turris
A section of the old defensive wall in Ston
Stagni. Approaching from land, Roman walls can be seen
near Zamaslina. Part of an Illyrian defensive strategy was
the hill-fort at Humac, which controlled all of Maloston- A monumental defensive system, the largest fortica-
ski Zaljev (Mali Ston bay). It was the guardfort of this tion and urban achievements in Europe at the time.
small area, a desired location since ancient times due to Dubrovnik invested huge sums of money and employed
its sheltered position and natural features of this basin that the many builders. During the rst thirty years, the de-
include exceptional maritime and cultural qualities (now fensive walls, the longest in Europe, were built from one
a protected preserve). side of the peninsula to the other.

133
134 CHAPTER 40. STON

40.5 Do

40.6 Buy

40.7 Eat
Bakus. Ston. Excellent seafood.
Tavern Bota Sare. Is located on the waterfront of
Mali Ston. Restaurant oers variety of seafood, but
when in Ston you have to eat oysters. Oysters of Ston
are particularly famous.
Vila Koruna Apartman and rooms,
+38520754999, fax: +38520754642. Mali
Ston. Enjoy oyster delicacies that are cultivated in
Bay of Mali Ston.

40.8 Drink

40.9 Sleep
Vila Koruna Apartman and rooms,
+38520754999, fax: +38520754642. Mali Ston.
Located at Mali Ston on the peninsula of Peljeac,
along the sea, only 50 km away from Dubrovnik.
It has 6 luxurious rooms and 2 fully furnished
apartments (TV-SAT, phone, air-conditioning).
Maximum capacity is 21 beds, together with a
restaurant with capacity of 300 seats (indoors &
outdoors), banquet hall all airconditioned and
summer terrace. It is a comfortable villa suitable
for seminars, work meetings, promotions etc.

40.10 Connect

40.11 Go next
Chapter 41

Northern Dalmatia

Northern Dalmatia is a coastal region in Croatia. It 41.2 Other destinations

is famous for its striking scenery, truly breathtaking na-
tional parks, and many beautiful and unspoilt islands. It
is home to several exceptionally beautiful and historic
41.2.1 Islands
coastal cities and towns. Many of these destinations are
traditional and picture-postcard. It has much to oer as Ugljan
a holiday destination, but is not so prone to the extreme
tourist inuxes that Southern Dalmatia experiences. It Paman
consists of the two counties of Zadar and Sibenik-Knin.
Dugi Otok

41.1 Cities Kornat

Murter
Zadar largest city in the region and the seat of
Zadar county. It is a regional transport hub from
which most parts of the region can be reached
whether by railroad, bus or ferry. The city features 41.2.2 Parks
a beautiful Old Town with many old buildings and
34 churches for visitors to admire. The city is par- Krka National Park
ticularly beautiful during the summer months when
many restaurants oer al fresco dining in the various Kornati National Park
courtyards and squares. Almost all of the Dalmatian
islands can be reached from the port, which oer a Telaica Nature Park
whole other aspect to the regions appeal.
ibenik medieval town 80 Km (45 miles) south
of Zadar and the seat of Sibenik-Knin county. It 41.3 Understand
is perched on a gentle hill and is very close to the
Krka Falls and Kornati island group, perhaps the
Turistika zajednica Zadarske upanije (Zadar
best-known Croatian archipelago.
region tourist board). (updated Sep 2016)
Biograd na Moru a popular tourist town between
Zadar and ibenik Turistika zajednica ibensko-Kninske u-
panije (Tourist Board County ibenik-Knin).
Nin small town a short distance north of Zadar. (updated Sep 2016)
It has a small cluster of historic buildings on a small
island away from the predominantly residential parts
of the town. Nin is well situated for access to the
island of Pag with its beautiful sandy beaches. Nin 41.4 Talk
also has a large stretching sandy beach of its own,
about half a mile away from the historic core. The language of the region is Croatian. As the area is not
Novigrad. A beautiful village located some 20 miles particularly touristy, there is a marked dierence in the
east of Zadar. number of people who can speak other languages such as
English, German and French. Therefore it is advisable to
Knin the former capital of the medieval Kingdom take a small phrase book or just learn some basic phrases
of Croatia. that may help.

135
136 CHAPTER 41. NORTHERN DALMATIA

41.5 Get in
The main point of access to the region for most foreigners
is Zadar International airport, several miles north of the
main city. You can travel from the airport to the main
city bus/train station for a cheap fare from directly outside
the front of the main terminal building. Then again, it is
possible to hire a car from the airport which will give you
much more exibility.

41.6 Get around

Buses are clean, ecient and punctual in Croatia. In fact,
many locals regularly use public transport instead of driv-
ing. Of course, though, car hire will allow you to be more
exible however may work out more expending depend-
ing on your travel plans. Buses run regularly around the
local area and buses run to Zagreb, the capital, and many
other larger Croatian cities from the central bus station.
A train line also runs south toward Split and Dubrovnik.

41.7 See
Zadars Old Town. Take an afternoon out to relax
and experience a traditional Adriatic City. Relax in
the cafs and restaurants, visit the many museums
and art galleries, climb the tower of the cathedral or
just take a dip in the sea. Alternatively, take a low-
cost ferry out to one of the beautiful islands from the
port right next to the Old Town.

41.8 Do

41.9 Go next
Chapter 42

Biograd na Moru

Biograd na Moru is a small, tourist city in Dalmatia, Hotel Bolero.

Croatia near Zadar.
Hotel Ilirija.

42.1 Understand 42.10 Go next

Turistika zajednica grada Biograd na Moru
Kornati National Park (archipelago) excursions.
(Biograd Tourist Board). (updated Sep 2016)
Prices around 200 HRK (on some boats unlimited
water and wine for free).

42.2 Get in Krka National Park about 55 km away.

ibenik city (about 50 km). 20 km away from Krka.

Small bus station is located in a city center. There are
several buses from Zadar (17 HRK, September 2009). Zadar city (30 km).

Split city (136 km). Trogir is also worth visiting and

is located only 28 km from Split.
42.3 Get around
One can go to Pasman Island by ferry (11 HRK, Septem-
ber 2009).

42.4 See

42.5 Do

42.6 Buy

42.7 Eat
Pizzeria Cocolino

42.8 Drink

42.9 Sleep
There are many private accommodations as well as some
hotels.

137
Chapter 43

Dugi Otok

Dugi Otok (Croatian for Long island) is the seventh Savar - Known for its picturesque church at the tip
largest island in the Adriatic Sea, part of Croatia. It is of a small peninsula, the cave Strana Pe and stone
located o the Dalmatian coast, west of Zadar. quarries.

Brbinj - Surrounded by thick olive groves. Brbinj

lies between Jaz and Luina bays. At the other,
43.1 Towns and villages Western, shore of the island there is the Bay of
Brbiica surrounded by high clis with numerous
caves scattered among them.

Dragove - Known for Veli al, a sandy beach across

the Meanj island.

Boava - Surrounded by pine forests. Boava is a

popular tourist destination. A selection of accom-
modation options is available there. The village is
overlooking a sheltered bay with various shing and
pleasure boats moored there.

Soline - a small village at the head of a big Luka

Chapel of Sveti Rok in Sali Soliica bay at the north of the island.

Veli Rat - Located in the Cuna bay (part of the Luka

Soliica) at the northern end of the island.

Veruni - For Saharun, a white sandy beach sur-

rounded by pine forests and considered the most
beautiful on the island. The nearby bay Pantera
(also part of the Luka Soliica) is popular among
the dives because of a ship wreck.

43.2 Other destinations

Sali, old harbour
Sali - The biggest settlement of the island. Its name
comes from the nearby salt pans. The village is the
gate to the Telaica Nature Park.
Telaica Nature Park is a bay located in the south-
eastern part of the island and has been declared a
nature park in 1988. Here span 25 small beaches on
nearly 70 km of coastline and the salt lake of Mir,
arguably known for its therapeutic qualities.

Zaglav

man
43.3 Understand
Luka - Sandwiched between the mountain Vela Dugi Otok is one of the less touristy islands in Croatia and
Straa, the highest peak on the island, and the bay as such oers beautiful landscapes and unspoiled nature.
of Boka. Luka is known for its therapeutic muds. All the villages are located on the side facing inland.

138
43.6. SEE 139

The island is 45 km long and up to 5 km wide and is

crossed by a single paved road that runs throughout its
length from north to south. Vela Straa with its 338 m is
the highest peak of the island.

43.3.1 Tourist information

In Sali

1 Turistika Zajednica Dugi Otok (Tourist union

Dugi Otok), Obala Petra Lorinja bb, Sali, +385
23 377 094, e-mail: tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr. (updated
view from the lighthouse in Veli Rat
Oct 2016)

In Boava 1 Strana pe. A cave between Savar and Luka. In

Turistika Zajednica mjesta Boava (Tourist as-
sociation Boava), +385 23 377 607, e-mail:
tzmbozava@gmail.com. (updated Oct 2016)
1904 it was visited by Austro-Hungarian Emperor
Franz Joseph. (updated Oct 2016)
1 Crkva Sv. Pelegrina (Church of St. Peregrine). A
pre-Romanesque church at an islet connected Savar.
(updated Oct 2016)

43.4 Get in 1 Svetite Male Gospe (Sanctuary of the Nativity of

Virgin Mary). a pilgrimage destination at the mount
43.4.1 By boat Dumbovica, close to Dragove. (updated Oct 2016)

Jadrolinja vehicle ferries from Zadar to Brbinj 1 Saljsko Polje. over 700 years old olive groves.
(twice a day in low season, 3 times a day in high According to a local legend the trees were planted
season) and Boava (calling at islands of Rivanj and by the Greeks more than 2000 years ago. (updated
Sestrunj) Oct 2016)

G&V Line passenger ferries from Zadar to Sali and Roman ruins
Zaglav (some calling at the island of I)

43.5 Get around

43.5.1 By bus

Local buses Brbinj - Boava - Veli Rat, Sali - Zaglav - Luka

and some fewer connections between Brbinj and Sali

43.5.2 By car

If traveling by car note that the only gas station on the A submarine pen close to Dragove
island is at Zaglav.

Submarine pens which were built for the

43.6 See
1 Veli Rat. A picturesque cape with an old light-
house. The lighthouse (42m high) is in operation
for more than 150 years. Inside there are two apart-
ments which could be rented. (updated Oct 2016)
Yugoslav Peoples Army. They were carved inside
a natural hill and is now abandoned and freely ac-
cessible from sea or by foot. A couple of them
could be found at the inlets on the north and south of
Dragove, yet another one in approx. 2.5 km north-
west of Boava.
140 CHAPTER 43. DUGI OTOK

43.7 Do
Yearly festival Saljske Uzance in Sali over the
weekend prior to the feast of the Assumption (15
August)

43.8 Eat

43.9 Drink

43.10 Stay safe

43.10.1 Cope
The only ATM on the island is in Sali (next to the Tommy
supermarket). Nevertheless, the money could be ex-
changed at every post oce there.

43.11 Go next
Zadar
Kornati islands
Chapter 44

Kornati National Park

Nacionalni park Kornati (Kornati National Park),

Butina 2, Murter, +385 22 435740, e-mail:
kornati@np-kornati.hr. (updated Oct 2016)

Passages between the Kornati islands Landscape at the island of Kornat

It is one of the Croatian national parks. The parks terri-

tory includes the area around the Donji Kornati (Lower The uniqueness of archipelago is that its area is densely
Kornati) a group of westernly islands (including the populated by bigger and smaller islands, so the passages
biggest one Kornat) of the Kornati archipelago, which between them are sometimes almost like a maze among
is located in the northern part of Dalmatia, south from the rocks.
Zadar and west from ibenik, in the ibenik-Knin county. From the neighboring island of Pasman and Dugi Otok,
the archipelago is separated by straits, and from the island
of Murter by the bay of Murtersko more (Murters sea).
44.1 Understand Two-thirds of the park is occupied by the island of Kornat
- the largest one in the archipelago with an area of more
The name of the archipelago is the plural form of the than 32 km. The length of the island - 25 km, the width
name of the largest island, called Kornat (Italian: isola is about 2.5.
Incoronata). There are no permanent settlements in
Kornati. Simple houses in various small bays such as
Vrulje, Kravjaica, Lavsa and others are used by main- 44.1.3 Flora and fauna
land landowners as temporary shelters. Most of the land
owners are from the island of Murter and Dugi Otok. Despite the semi-desert appearance of a large part of the
islands, ora and fauna of the archipelago is rich both on
the land and underwater. There are 537 species of plants
44.1.1 History there, with trees are mostly represented by pines and olive
trees.
In 1980 the area was declared a national park.
In addition to a variety of rodents, snakes, lizards, in-
sects, fauna of the island is presented by martens, squir-
44.1.2 Landscape rels, and birds, the most notable of which were owls, fal-
cons, kestrels, buzzards and cormorants.
The park includes 89 islands with a total area of 50 square The seabed consists of reefs of dierent shapes, rich of
kilometers and a coastline exceeding 238 km. The total coral, pearl shells and shellsh. The waters are rich of
area of the park with the sea area - 220 square kilometers. sh.

141
142
44.1.4 Climate
The average monthly temperature for January is 7.3 C
(45.1 F), in July it is 23.9 C (75.0 F); the average sea
temperature in winter is 14 to 15 C (57 to 59 F) and in
summer 22.8 C (73.0 F).
44.2 Get in
Kornatian crowns
44.5 See
A tripper boat in Kornati
44.2.1 By boat
The only way to visit the park is by boat:
By organised day-trips from Zadar, ibenik, Murter
and other tourist locations around
By private or chartered boats
44.3 Fees/permits
Visiting the park is paid on per boat basis. For organised
trips the entrance fee is included into a price of a trip.
If visiting by a own or chartered boat then tickets could
be either bought at some tourist agency outside the park,
alternatively the parks rangers are issuing tickets in situ,
but bear in mind that this way you'd pay twofolds of the
outside price.
For more details check the links Ticket prices and fees 44.6 Do
and Spots of comission ticket sales at the bottom of Useful
information page at the parks ocial site. The park is popular with boaters, divers, wildlife enthu-
siasts and even cyclists.
44.4 Get around
Between the islands only by boat.
CHAPTER 44. KORNATI NATIONAL PARK
Krune (Crowns). A geological phenomenon: a
rock, growing out of the sea. Reach up to 100 me-
ters as in the underwater part, and in the freeboard.
Hiking on the crowns is prohibited! (updated Oct
2016)
1 Magazinova krila. A at limestone plateau on
the island of Kornat, inclined at an angle of 40. (up-
dated Oct 2016)
1 Tureta. Ruins of a Byzantine fortress at the Ko-
rnat island, just opposite the island Levrnaka. The
oldest building at the archipelagos dating from the
VI century. (updated Oct 2016)
1 Crkva Gospe od Tarca (church of Our Lady of
Tarac). A modest late Romanesque church. Here
also can be seen remains of an early Christian three-
nave Byzantine basilica. (updated Oct 2016)
1 Crkvica na Pikeri (church at the island of Pik-
era). (updated Oct 2016)
Ilirske gradine. Remains of Illyrian settlements are
located on several islands of the archipelago. (up-
dated Oct 2016)
1 Mana (island of Mana). Quite a curiosity as there
in the late 50s was a movie shooting location. Some
remains to the stone decorations still can be seen
there. (updated Oct 2016)
Swim in the islands bays
Hike the islands, but be respectful
Dive, but follow the rules
44.11. STAY SAFE 143

park. For details check the Accommodations page at the

parks web side.

44.11 Stay safe

The closest ambulances are located in the island of Murter
or in Sali (Dugi Otok).

44.12 Go next
Sali and other locations on Dugi Otok
Remains of the cinema decorations at the island of Mana
Telaica Nature Park is often combined with Ko-
rnati into the same organised day trip
44.7 Buy
Zadar
A small convenience shop is located in the on the Marina
Pikera on the islet of Vela Panitula. Its closed out of
season.

44.8 Eat

A konoba at the bay of Vrulje

There are a few restaurants scattered among the bays and

the islands. The most of the restaurants there are open
only in season.

44.9 Drink
Refreshments could be bought at the head of the bay Mir.

44.10 Sleep
Camping is only allowed at the authorised locations
(Ravno, akan, Levrnaka).
A few private accommodations could be found inside the
Chapter 45
Murter
Murter (Morter or Mortero in Italian) is an island in
the Croatian part of the Adriatic sea, located in central
Dalmatia. A small village on the north-western part of
the island also bears the name.
45.1 Understand
The island is populated by around ve thousand people,
with two thousand of them living in the village of Murter.
The island lies in the northwest part of the ibenik
archipelago and is separated from the mainland by a 20
m wide sea canal at Tisno. The canal is spanned by a 37
m draw-bridge. The island covers an area of about 18.7
km, and the highest point is the peak of Radu at 125 m
above sea level.
The southwestern coastline is predominantly of steep
slopes divided by many sandy coves. The island has an
assortment of both sandy and rocky beaches.
45.1.1 Tourist information
Turistika zajednica opine Murter-Kornati,
Rudina bb, Murter, +385 22 434 995, e-mail:
info@tz-murter.hr. (updated Oct 2016)
Turistika zajednica Betina, Trg na moru 2,
Betina, +385 22 436 522, e-mail: tz-betina@hi.t-
com.hr. (updated Oct 2016)
Turistika zajednica opine Tisno, Istona gomil-
ica 1A, Tisno, +385 22 438 604, e-mail: info@tz-
tisno.hr. (updated Oct 2016)
Turistika zajednica Jezera, Put Zaratia 3, Jez-
era, +385 22 439 120, e-mail: turisticka-
zajednica-jezera@si.htnet.hr. (updated Oct 2016)
45.2 Townships
Murter is the biggest and oldest settlement, the three other
settlements on the island are Betina, Jezera and Tisno.
144
Murter was named in 1715 and carries the same
name as the island. It oers hotels, homestays con-
dominiums, marinas, nice quiet beaches, numerous
restaurants and taverns. The township also has many
sports facilities providing for tennis, basketball, ve-
a-side football and water sports. In the April the
regatta Murter-Kornati helps start o the season.
More traditional celebrations are St. Roko annually
on 16 August and Nativity of the Virgin Mary on 8
September. The static population of around 2000
swells fourfold in the peak tourism season. The town
has bank facilities, a health clinic, pharmacy, auto-
mobile repair shops, scuba diving shops, an open air
cinema and marina facilities in Hramina bay.
Tisno was rst mentioned in 1474. It is split in two
halves by a narrow straight. A long quay has been
built along the narrowest part of it and a moveable
bridge there connects the island with the mainland.
There are a few shops in the town. Tisno has be-
come an important religious centre due to pilgrim-
ages to Our Lady of Caravaggio, frequented by be-
lievers from ibenik and Zadar.
Betina, on the northeastern side of the island near
Murter, is considered to be one of the most beauti-
ful places in the Adriatic with notable architectural
attractions. The historical central part of Betina
is built on the eastern slopes of Cape Arti, at the
northern opening to the Murter passage. In Zdrae
bay there is a marina and shipyard and a local beach.
Betina has nearly 100 small family-run shipyards
with a tradition of strong hand-built and long-lasting
traditional wooden boats.
Jezera is the smallest settlement on the island and
spreads around the sheltered bay on the southeast
side of the island. Its centre is on the north side
of the bay. ACI marina at Jezera is situated on the
south side of the bay. Jezera is a central Dalma-
tian shing centre and the site of the holiday village
Lovia, situated in Lovia bay to the northwest
of Jezera.
45.6. SEE 145

45.3 History 45.6 See

The island has been populated for nearly two millennia. St. Michaels church, St. Rocks chapel, and
An Illyria (Ancient Roman) settlement known as Co- the church of Our Lady of Gradina are the oldest
lentum has been found near Betina. Documents from churches on the island.
In 1293 indicate that Murter was called Villa Magna'
meaning 'the big village'. During the 13th century there The local graveyard, with historic early Croatian
were two documented settlements on the island; Jezera graves is situated on the Gradina cape.
and Veliko selo, Srima (now Murter). Betina and Tisno
Remains of Roman buildings, including the remains
were most likely built around the beginning of the 15th
of the antique settlement at Colentum. Visit the foot
century, during the time of conict with the Ottoman Em-
of the Gradine elevation, at Hramina cove and else-
pire. The population of the island increased during that
where.
time as refugees ed from the Turks.
Beaches, quality accommodation and supporting services
make Murter an ideal tourist destination and accordingly 45.7 Do
the island has a history as a popular regional destination.
Slanica cove, said to be the most beautiful beach of
the ibenik Riviera.
45.4 Get in
Murter had a military base built on it during World
45.4.1 By bus War II, with tunnels bored deep inside the island.
Some locals believe the site is haunted.
Regional buses from Tribunj, Vodice, ibenik
There are 3 marinas on the island
Daily buses to Zadar, Rijeka, Zagreb and various
destinations along the coast.
45.8 Buy
45.4.2 By plane
The population of Murter traditionally deal with agricul-
The closest airports are in Split and Zadar. ture and shing and are well known for these skills, as
well as being producers of excellent olive oil.
For Split airport it would be more reasonable to get to
Trogir straight from the airport (instead of Split proper),
then take a bus from there.
45.9 Eat
45.4.3 By car
45.10 Drink
Cross the bridge at Tisno. All four towns on the island
are readily accessible by road using a private car. 45.11 Sleep
1 Podizni most u Tisnome (Moveable bridge
Murter oers various accommodation including hotels,
in Tisno). 15 May-14 Sep 09:00-09:30, 17:00-
homestays and condominiums.
17:30;15 Sep-14 May M W F 09:00-09:30. The is-
land is connected with the mainland by a moveable
bridge. In season they open the bridge twice a day Hotel Colentum, Put Slanice bb, +385 22
for 1/2 hour to pass through the boats. Out of season 431100, fax: +385 22 435255, e-mail: info@hotel-
the bridge is opened only 3 times a week. (updated colentum.hr. A modern hotel of 98 rooms. Several
Nov 2016) terraces look over the Kornati archipelago and the
sea. Open from April to October. Open-air swim-
ming pool, AC, central heating, TV, private parking,
45.5 Get around onsite restaurant, dogs are permitted

Hotel Stomorin, Put gradine bb (Located in the

45.5.1 By bus marina Hramina), +385 22 434 411, fax: +385
22 435 242, e-mail: info@marina-hramina.hr. 10
Regional buses also connect the major settlements rooms and 36 beds. Each room has a view of the
on the island to each other. marina and the sea. All rooms have A/C and a TV.
146 CHAPTER 45. MURTER

Heartofdalmatia.com (Apartments in Murter),

Mehanova 6, 22243, +385 98 331 421. 120 apart-
ments in Murter for rent.

45.12 Connect
See Croatia#Telephone
Emergency services

Emergency: 112

Police: 92
Fire Brigade: 93

Ambulance 94

45.13 Go next
Kornati National Park

Vodice
Prvi

ibenik

Zadar
Krka National Park

Dugi Otok and Telaica Nature Park

Vransko lake

Split, international airport, ferry terminal and har-

bour
Chapter 46
Novalja
Novalja is a city on the island of Pag.
46.1 Understand
With approximately 3,350 inhabitants, Novalja was
known as a popular family resort due to its pristine
beaches and clean sea, but recently it has been nicknamed
The Croatian Ibiza. Reason behind that is the beach
Zre, declared as the #1 spot in Croatia, with its numer-
ous clubs popular among Croatian celebrities and auent
youth.
46.2 Get in
46.2.1 By car
If coming from north or Zagreb, take the A1 highway and
follow the direction Split. The highway has two major
tunnels, Mala Kapela and Sveti Rok, both over 5 kilome-
ters long. In tourist season, delays are often in front of
the tunnels, so be patient, but don't worry, Croatias tun-
nels are among the safest in Europe. When you pass the
tunnel Sveti Rok and the Maslenica bridge, look out for
Pag/Novalja exit. Follow the signs saying Novalja or Pag.
If you're coming from Istria, you can use the A1 high-
way, but use the D8 (better known as Adriatic Highway -
Jadranska magistrala on Croatian) and follow the sign to
Pag (50 km after Senj). You can use the ferry or drive 60
km south and access it via bridge. Listen to HRT-HR1
or HRT-HR2 (the only dierence is that the second one
plays more up-to-date music) because every hour trac
information is given in English, German and Italian.
46.2.2 By bus
There are several bus lines from Zagreb or inland to No-
valja, but some of them operate only in tourist season.
However, Zadar is 60 km away from Novalja, and its con-
nected to it via bus. Here you can nd buses to Novalja
from other cities Bus in Croatia Gajac is a planned apartment community 2 kilometers
147
46.2.3 By boat
There is a catamaran line between Novalja and Rijeka.
Its very fast (2.5 hours) and very comfortable.
46.3 Get around
Although 99% of the visitors use a car, you can walk
around downtown due to its small and tight streets and
a large pedestrian zone. Scooters are also very popular,
and the city has a rental service with fair prices. Quads
are also popular since there are many unpaved country
roads to test your o-road skills. If you still decide to use
a car around downtown, parking fees are a bit pricey but
there is always a place to park, specially near the beach-
front. Public transport consists of three beach shuttles
which are actually open minivans that connect downtown,
Gajac and Zre for a 10 kn (1.5 euro) ticket. There is
also a rent-a-car and three gas stations. If you're lucky
enough to have your own boat, this is also an excellent
way to explore around since there are many hidden bays
and beaches.
46.4 See
Novalja is a small city, and everything important is in the
three main streets, all well connected, so you won't nd
any addresses here.
The Roman aqueduct. It was manually chiseled out in
solid rock and is 1042 m long, about 60 cm wide and
its height varies. There are 9 ventilation holes along its
route and the highest is at 44 m above the level of sea.
Aqueduct provided with drinkable water the locality and
various artisan workshops situated in it as well as ships
stopping by. For many centuries it was out of function and
was rediscovered in the 19th century. At the beginning of
the 20th century it was again used for three short periods.
Nowadays the aqueduct can be visited in about 150 m
length and local authorities constantly work on its further
revitalization.
148 CHAPTER 46. NOVALJA

away from Novalja. It has a long beachfront sidewalk Novalja.

ideal for jogging or walking, scenic parks for relax and
picnic, and very clean beaches. Its also very quiet so its
ideal for families.
46.6 Buy
Stara Novalja is an old bay village 3 kilometer away from
Novalja. Features a public (but often overcrowded) beach
The promenade in Novalja, or Riva, has small stands with
and many private accommodation. A great number of
souvenirs and similar stu, as well as many fast food
real estate development is in Stara Novalja, but be careful,
stands and few cafes. The city itself has few shops pro-
prices are often sky high. Sometimes, during the strong
viding everything for a decent vacation, and they are all
Adriatic wind bura, car ferries operate through a port just
located downtown. Novalis is the biggest, and it even has
at the end of Stara Novalja (just follow the road direction
a scooter dealership. Fish market provides daily fresh
north, it gets you straight there) but this occurs rarely. The
sh, but in order to buy it, you have to get up early be-
western part of the bay is unpopulated so there are many
cause most of it is sold by 9AM. Three large supermarkets
small beaches accessible only via boat which are great if
(Kerum, Hiper Novalis and Kastelo) are located in the
you enjoy nudism.
entrance to the city. Newsstands are located everywhere,
Zre is a beach located 2 kilometers from Novalja, right with drug stores and postal oces. A special blend of
across the crossing for mentioned Gajac. It features three cheese is the symbol of the island, so dont forget to try it
main clubs, Papaya, Aquarious, Noa, Kalypso and Eu- (especially if youre planing to buy it, since it has a unique
phoria. During the day its a normal beach with many taste and its quite pricey).
things to do (bungee jumping, jet ski...) The party starts
somewhere after 3PM, with the so-called After beach
party, which can include foam and other themed parties.
Then, after midnight, it gets out of control. As mentioned 46.7 Eat
above, Zre enjoys high media coverage so its popular
among Croatian celebrities, and many Croatian popular Lamb from the island of Pag is a nationwide specialty,
singers open the summer season right there. The clubs so dont forget to try it. The city has many restaurants
host internationally acclaimed DJs, and many electronic with fair prices, and also many fast food stands. Pags
and house music events are held there. The beach has its sheep cheese is worldwide famous and delicious specialty
own parking lot, but avoid it if you can, because it can get which has won lots of gold medals for top quality and
extremely crowded. If possible, walk to the beach or use with modern cheese factory its processed and delivered
the shuttle. There is really no rule when does the party to many countries, but because of limited production its
end, but all-day partying is not unusual. price is little higher cca 30 to 35 eur/kg. Wine produc-
tion is an oldest profession and you can nd best quality
Caska is a beach a bit smaller than Zre, but more suit-
white (called Zutica) and rose and its taste is unique and
able for families. Basically, the two beaches are in the
comparable to French vines. There is a Boskinac bottled
same bay and you can walk from one to another if you
product of good and tasty wine. Don't need to mention
don't mind the sharp rocks bordering them. There is also
best quality sh and best sh restaurants on the island.
an urban legend about ruins below the sea surface near
Caska but no one has ever seen anything yet, although
some claim that the top of the lighthouse is still visible
when the sea level is low. 46.8 Drink
Lounge bar Cocomo is the rst stop in the city, and dont
46.5 Do go to Zre beach before going there. Except Cocomo,
there is a small street full of bars and cafes if the over-
crowded lounge bar isn't your thing.
Besides party, Novalja and its surroundings oer interest-
ing sights. Beach Ruica in the village Metajna is a prime
example. It gives a feeling of being in a canyon, and it has
crystal clear water and pristine sand. Look for other hid- 46.9 Sleep
den beaches (they often have a sign) but be careful, most
of the roads leading to them are in poor condition. North There are lots of 3- and 4-star hotels such as Hotel
of Novalja is a small village of Lun, great for getting away Boskinac, Loza, Liburnija, Hotel Villa Palcic and Hotel
from the party hustle. Luna, but the majority of accommodation resorts lie in
http://www.ZrceNovalja.com: Things to do, nightlife, private accommodation in high-class apartments in No-
events on Zrce Beach, summer program with all the par- valja and surrounding nice villages which are more suit-
ties and festivals, where to go out, where to eat, places able for a family vacation. There are also agencies with
to stay. All you need to know to plan your holidays in complete accommodation service for the guests.
46.13. GO NEXT 149

46.9.1 Budget
Camping Strasko, +385053661226. Cheap
camping with beach access. There is also a place
to rent tents if needed.

46.9.2 Mid-range
1 Villa Margareta Novalja, Matice hrvatske 18,
+385 53 661 101. Red, green and blue apartments.
Free Internet access.

46.9.3 Splurge

46.10 Connect
The city features many pay-phones, and the cell phone
signal coverage is excellent. There is a Wi-Fi enabled bar
right near the center called Gaudino. There are lots of
cyber-internet cafes as Harpun, but its highly overpriced
(20-30 kn - 3-4 euro for an hour)

46.11 Stay safe

Novalja has a reputation of being a very safe city, how-
ever, party lifestyle has its consequences. First of all, drug
presence on the beach Zre is extremely high, so the po-
lice often patrols around there. Because of the beachs
high reputation and fame in Croatia, many young people
who cannot aord to stay in Novalja come for a weekend
and sleep in the car, drink in the car and then go to party.
Picking a ght is possible with them, so dont respond to
provocations. Conservative Croatian public often refers
to Novalja as the Sodom and Gomorrah of Croatia. Pub-
lic sex is a common thing, so don't be surprised. Condom
vending machines are located around the beach, so feel
free to use them. But in general Novalja is safe place and
top tourist destination with respectful and most hospitable
inhabitants which will make you return to this location
again and again.

46.12 Cope

46.13 Go next
Pag (town)
Chapter 47

Pag (town)

Pag is a town on the island of the same name in Dalmatia. 47.10 Connect

47.11 Go next
47.1 Understand
Novalja

47.2 Get in

47.3 Get around

47.4 See

47.5 Do

47.6 Buy

47.7 Eat

Eat the delicious Pag lamb. The lambs of the island of

Pag eat a diet of sage, rosemary and lavender and, as a
result, the taste is mild and avorful.
The island is also famous for its Pag cheese.

47.8 Drink

47.9 Sleep

Hotel Tony is a about a 10-minute drive from the

center of the City of Pag. It is a clean, friendly hotel
with an excellent restaurant. Make sure to have a
shot of the house schnapps if you go there.

Bokinac, kopaljska ulica 220, +385 53 663

500, e-mail: info@boskinac.com. Hotel, restaurant
and winery. (updated Mar 2016)

150
Chapter 48

Paman

Paman is an island with a surface area of 60 square kilo- 48.7 Do

meters, separated from the mainland by the Pasman chan-
nel, which is strewn all over with many islets.
48.8 Eat
48.1 Towns and villages 48.9 Drink
Kraj
Paman
48.10 Stay safe
Mali Paman Con Sole, Travel agencyCon Sole in Tkon.
Mrljane
Banj 48.11 Go next
Neviane
Cimera
drelac

48.2 Other destinations

48.3 Understand

48.4 Get in
Pasman is connected to the mainland by the Biograd-
Tkon ferry line, and by bridge over the Zdrelac strait
with the island of Ugljan, with which it shares similar veg-
etation. The sea currents in the strait change course every
six hours, making the sea water here the cleanest in the
Adriatic.

48.5 Get around

48.6 See
The Franciscan Monastery of St. Dujam in Kraj.
The Benedictine Monastery of St. Kuzma and
Damjan on Mt. Cokovac.

151
Chapter 49

Raanac

Razanac is a typical Dalmatian shermens village and 49.9 Sleep

small harbour on the coast of the southern part of the
Velebit Channel, 24 km northeast of Zadar. Chief oc-
cupations are farming, livestock breeding, shing and
tourism. The coast is poorly indented and chiey bare
from the cape of Debela Nozica in the north-west to the
cove of Bokulja in the south-east. In front of the village
are low and bare islets of Razanac Veli, Razanac Mali and
Donji Skolj.
49.1 Understand
Rent a Tent, Raanac x58 (Zadar-Raanac). Fully
equipped tents. The dimensions of the tents are
300X405 cm with an outside tent of 300X155 cm,
height of 205 cm, in 100 % waterproof materials.
Can be used by a maximum of 4 people. The bed-
room is separated from other parts of the tent. It
presents one extra tent which can be closed from all
sides. There is a kitchen space and eating area. The
oor of the tent is made of wood. In front of the tent
there is a space with roof, for a table and 4 chairs.
10-19.

49.2 Get in
49.10 Connect
Razanac is located on the local road, branching o from
the main road (M29). ambulance: 65 11 11 emergency: 94 police: 92 remen:
93 croatian auto-club: 987 center for informations: 985
post (23248): 65 16 70

49.3 Get around

49.11 Go next
49.4 See
On Sibenicka Glavica, south of the village, are the ru-
ins of an Illyrian hill-fort. Medieval settlements emerged
during the period of Turkish-Venetian wars (16th and
17th c.). The harbour features the remains of a forti-
cation from the 16th century.

49.5 Do

49.6 Buy

49.7 Eat

49.8 Drink

152
Chapter 50

Rtina

Rtina is a town in the Dalmatia region of Croatia. 50.10 Connect

50.11 Go next
50.1 Understand

This part of Dalmatia is well known for its strong wind

that blows in the winter. That is why the climate is one
of the healthiest in Europe (especially for the people with
respiratory diseases).
Around 500 people live in Rtina. During summer there
is 5000 and more people arrived as tourists. Place is very
quiet and calm so it is perfect for good and trouble free
vacation. Local people are very polite and welcome to
outsiders. Tourist business is growing each season which
improves look of the place.

50.2 Get in

50.3 Get around

50.4 See

50.5 Do

50.6 Buy

50.7 Eat

50.8 Drink

50.9 Sleep

Villa Saga, Rtina 183 (Zadar-Pag),

+38598272187. Check-in: 2PM, check-out:
10AM. Private holiday house with 8 beds. 80.

153
Chapter 51

ibenik

51.1.1 Tourist information

1 Turistiko informativni centar (Tourist Infor-

mation Centre), Obala palih omladinaca 3, +385
22 214 448. (updated Oct 2016)

1 Turistika zajednica grada ibenika (ibenik

Tourist Board), Fausta Vrania 18, +385 22 212
075, e-mail: tz-sibenik@si.t-com.hr. (updated Sep
2016)

Turistika zajednica ibensko-Kninske u-

panije (Tourist board of ibenikKnin County),
View over Cathedral of St. James and the bay of ibenik Fra Nikole Ruia bb, +385 22 219 072, e-mail:
info@sibenikregion.com. (updated Oct 2016)
ibenik is a city (pop. ~37,000) in ibenik-Knin County,
in northern Dalmatia, Croatia.
51.2 Get in

51.1 Understand

ibenik is most famous for Saint James Cathedral, which

is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. A trademark of
the city is the traditional ibenik hat, coloured orange and
black, also the citys colours. 16th century polymath and
bishop Faust Vrani, known as one of the inventors of
parachute and perhaps the rst man who used it, was born
here and lived here. Famous basketball player Draen
Petrovi, and Maksim Mrvica, a piano player, were born
here.
ibenik was mentioned for the rst time under its present
name in 1066 in a Charter of the Croatian King Petar
Kreimir IV. For a period of time, it was a seat of the ibeniks harbour side
Croatian King. For that reason, ibenik is also called
Kreimirov grad (Kreimirs city). It is the oldest na- ?'"`UNIQ--maplink-00000002-QINU`"'?
tive Croatian town on the eastern shores of the Adriatic Map of ibenik
sea. You can see the statue of King Petar Kreimir IV be-
tween the park and the beginning of the promenade along
the sea. ibenik was for almost 300 years under Vene-
tian rule, and then in Austro-Hungary, Yugoslavia and - 51.2.1 By plane
nally, Croatia. It was a very important town in Venetian-
Turkish wars and it was a frontier of the western civiliza- Airports of Split and Zadar are quite close to the city
tion an Christianity. (approx. 1h by bus).

154
51.4. SEE 155

For Split airport it would be more reasonable to get to

Trogir straight from the airport (instead of Split proper),
then take a bus from there.

51.2.2 By bus
1 Autobusni kolodvor ibenik (Bus station).
07:00-22:00. ibenik is well connected by bus with
Croatia, surrounding countries and Central Europe
(Dortmund, Ljubljana...). Left luggage service is
available. (updated Sep 2016)

In the city
51.2.3 By boat
1 Trajektno pristanite (Ferry quay). Local ferries 51.3.3 By car
are operating from the port to Kaprije, Prvic Luka,
Sepurine, Vodice, Zirje and Zlarin. (updated Sep If you come by car, theres a large parking place on the
2016) very central square Poljana, as well as there is one with
700 spots when you enter the town northbound.
For long distance destination, like Rijeka, Dubrovnik or
Ancona and Bari, check ports of Split and Zadar.
51.4 See
51.2.4 By train
1 Kolodvor ibenik (Railway station), Fra Jeron-
ima Milete 24. Mo-Fr 07:00-10:50 13:10-20:20, Sa
06:20-10:50, Su 06:20-10:50 15:50-20:20. ibenik
is connected to the Croatian railway network by
ibenik-Perkovi line. From Perkovi there are some
connections to Split and Zagreb. Unfortunately the
trains are quite slow there and the current schedule
renders it virtually useless for a traveler. (updated
Sep 2016)

At the centre of the old town

51.2.5 By car
Venetian rule left ibenik with four beautiful fortresses:
Take A1 highway Zagreb-Split and turn o at ibenik St. Michael, St. John, ubiaevac and St. Nicholas. Old
junction. part of the town, full of churches, old noblemen palaces
and typical Dalmatian stone houses centuries old is very
interesting. Town walls are also well preserved. One of
51.3 Get around the most interesting sights is medieval monastery garden.

51.3.1 On foot 1 Katedrala sv. Jakova (Cathedral of St. James

Everywhere in the city is within walking distance. From
bus station to the old city centre it takes only ve minutes
to walk. You can get to all sights on foot, and the furthest
are within half an hour walk.
51.3.2 By bus
If you want to go to the outskirts of the city (for in-
stance to the Dalmare shopping centre), you can take
a public bus. Bus transport in ibenik is operated by
Autotransport ibenik and 3 smaller private companies.
or Cathedral of St. Jacob), Trg Republike Hrvatske
1. 9:30-18:30. This basilica is considered as one
of the major attraction in the city. It is on the UN-
ESCO World Heritage list. Construction started in
1431, and it was not nished until 1536 due to Turk-
ish wars. Several successive architects built it com-
pletely in stone in the 15th and 16th centuries, both
in Gothic and in Renaissance style. The interlock-
ing stone slabs of the Cathedrals roof were dam-
aged when the city was shelled by Serbian forces in
1991. The damage has since been repaired. It has
a beautiful baptistery worth seeing it, and the cu-
riosity is it has been built with stone only, without
156
Cathedral of St. James
Crkva sv. Barbare
any kind of binder. Another one is 72 human heads
carved in stone on the external part which belong to
unknown individuals, passers-by, sailors, merchants
and peasants who posed as the cathedral was being
built. Statues of Adam and Eve are also curious;
Adam is covering his breasts, and Eve is covering
not her breasts, but her stomach. 15 kn. (up-
dated Oct 2016)
1 Gradska vijenica (Old city hall). Formerly
known as Plathei Communis, it was built from 1533-
1536. (updated Sep 2016)
1 Crkva sv. Barbare (Church of Saint Barbara).
A beautiful small church dating from the 15th cen-
CHAPTER 51. IBENIK
tury with an asymmetric facade with a clock. Now
it houses the Muzej crkvene umjetnosti (Museum of
Church Art). (updated Oct 2016)
1 Biskupska palaa (Bishops Palace). (1439-1441)
(updated Sep 2016)
1 Kneeva palaa (Dukes Palace). (updated Sep
2016)
1 etiri bunara (4 draw-wells), Palih omladinaca 2
(up the steps from the Cathedral square for the square
itself and down the steps enter the former reservoir),
+385 98 341 175. It is an underground com-
plex of water reservoirs, built in the 15th century
for citys water supply. Now its a multimedia exhi-
bition center Bunari - Tajne ibenika (Bunari - Se-
crets of Sibenik). The reservoirs are now dry and
decorated as a museum/gallery and a cafe. It has 7
sections: (ibeniks treasure, food and drink, ship-
wrecks around ibenik, persons from the past etc.).
Concerts, stand-up comedy shows etc. often take
place at the cafe. Very interesting spot. May-Oct
15 Kn; Nov-Apr 10 Kn.
1 Crkva i smostan sv. Frane (Church and
monastery of St. Francis), Trg Nikole Tomaszea 1
(at the eastern edge of the old town). Dating from
the 16th century (updated Oct 2016)
1 Perivoj Roberta Visianija (Park of Roberto de
Visiani). A nicely decorated little park with foun-
tains dedicated to Roberto de Visiani botanist,
poet and philosopher who was born in ibenik (up-
dated Oct 2016)
1 Srednjovjekovni vrt sv.Lovre (Medieval garden
of the monastery St. Laurence), Sv. Lovre (take
the Don Krste Stoia street, then 6th turn right),
+385 22 212 515, e-mail: cromovens@si.t-com.hr.
8-23h. Extremely rare medieval monastery garden,
restaurated in 2007 by Dragutin Ki, who won a mil-
lenium Flora award in Japan in 2000. Won the rst
prize at school gardens contest in Croatia. It con-
tains various plants, especially those used in phar-
macy and as spices. It has a quiet cafe, where you
can quietly enjoy the view to the ibeniks old part
and the sea, the atmosphere and the odor. Only for
guided groups 15 kn, check with Cromovens Tourist
Agency.
1 Tvrava sv. Mihovila (St. Michaels fortress).
Ruins of the 13th century now converted into a sum-
mer stage. Its an empty shell inside, but views onto
surrounding city and the bay are quite promising. 20
Kn. (updated Sep 2016)
51.7. EAT
51.5 Do
Take a swim! Beaches around ibenik (Solaris,
abori, Grebatica, Brodarica, Jadrija, Srima...)
are extremely clean and fun (although sea in ibenik
bay itself isn't very clean). You must try the beach
game of picigin, an invention of nearby city of Split's
youth. All you need is shallow, sandy or not so stony
beach, small ball and company. The aim is to hold
a ball as much as you can up in the air, and you're
allowed to use all body parts.
1 Walk or cycle along the Kanal sv. Ante. (up-
dated Sep 2016)
The annual ibenik International Childrens Fes-
tival (Meunarodni Djeji Festival), founded in
1958, takes place every summer in the theater or the
stage between the Cathedral and City hall, as well
as on the streets and squares. Its a great fun, tickets
are bargain, and there are a lot of events for adults
as well.
In late summer traditional Dalmatian Chanson
Evenings are held. Its worth the visit, but tickets
are expensive and there are few of them.
Take a trip to Vodice (Hacienda) or Primoten
(Aurora) night clubs. It takes around 15 minutes
to Vodice and half an hour to Primoten by car.
Fortress of St. Michael. The Fortress of St.
Michael is located at a height of 70m above the sea
behind the old city agglomeration. Great view of
city of Sibenik, Sibenik Bay and channel.
51.6 Buy
Old city hall
157
Typical hat
Take a walk along the Kalelarga (ocially King
Tomislavs street) and visit its shops, squares and
cafes.
Buy a CD with traditional Dalmatian klapa singing
on it. Klapa is a choir which uses mostly just
voice and a few instruments, and they are typical for
ibenik.
Nearby islands Krapanj and Zlarin are famous for
their sponge industry (Krapanj) and coral diving and
coral cottage industry (Zlarin), which goes back to
17th century. Coral jewelery and sponge sou-
venirs are aordable and original.
Traditional ibeniks orange and black cap is
towns most famous and most recognizable brand,
but it can get expensive (more than 20 ), so just
buy a mini replica.
Olive oil and dry gs are also very qualitative and
you can bring them home.
There are also antiquities fairs around the town, so
look for them. If you visit ibenik in late Septem-
ber, you'll get inside Medieval festival, where you
can buy almost everything linked to medieval.
You can also visit the Dalmare shopping mall. It is
located in the southern outskirts of ibenik, along
the road to Split. It includes many clothes shops of
major European chains, a large Konzum supermar-
ket and a 24-hour McDonalds restaurant.
51.7 Eat
Kike Pizzeria in the ancient part of the city is worth a
visit.
51.8 Drink
158 CHAPTER 51. IBENIK

At a local bar

51.9 Sleep
Unfortunately, and surprisingly as well, private accom-
modation in Sibenik is not as popular as it is in the other
cities of Croatia. Few are willing to open their houses to
the travellers and no or only a few sobe (room) signs can
be seen at the doors.

Evas home (Zadarska 37) however, which is located

in the upper part of the old city, is an alternative
with a clean room and good price. Ask assistance to
locate.
A hostel Indigo is in the old part of the city.

51.10 Go next
Krka National Park is perhaps somewhat lowlier
than the famous Plitvice Lakes National Park, but
still is well worth a visit. The park is full of breath-
taking scenery of waterfalls, ora, fauna as well as
historical and archaeological remains.

Kornati National Park is famous for its numerous

islands and its undersea.

Telaica Nature Park just next to Kornati

Zadar

Split
Chapter 52

Zadar

Narodni trg (Peoples Square)

Bells of Zadar Bell Tower

52.1 Understand

In 2016 Zadar won a contest for the European Best Des-

tination.

52.1.1 Tourist information

St. Donats church 1 Turistika zajednica Grada Zadara (Tourist In-

formation Centre), Mihovila Klaia 1. (updated Aug
2016)

52.2 Get in

52.2.1 By plane

1 Zrana luka Zadar (Zadar Airport IATA: ZAD)

View of Zadar Town and Adratic Sea from Zadar Bell Tower
Zadar is a city in northern Dalmatia, Croatia.
(12 Km east of the centre). The airport shares its air-
eld with military. It used to be a civic road crossing
its taxi lanes, so the trac was regulated by lifting
gates, but it doesn't seem the case anymore. Nev-
ertheless its an international airport with ights by
Croatia Airlines, Eurowings, Ryanair, and few oth-
ers; various charters in season. (updated Aug 2016)

159
160 CHAPTER 52. ZADAR

Ground transportation

Airport shuttle. The bus runs to the citys bus sta-

tion and then continues up to the bus hub at the old
town. 25 Kn. (updated Aug 2016)

Buses run to the Central bus station and Old town from
Zadar airport terminal. These buses are clean, comfort-
able and ecient. Buses run in conjunction with arriving
ights. Therefore they will run more frequently during
weekdays than at weekends, as more ights are arriving
at the airport. However, at weekends it is still possible to
catch a bus. The airport bus costs 25 kuna. Jardolinja Ferry
You can also rent a car at Zadar airport. There are mul-
tiple car rental companies.
1 Local ferries, Liburnska obala. Zadar is a hub
For taxi or pre-booked transfers are also available. for local boats and hydrofoils in Northern Dalmatia.
Services run to and from Olib, Mali Losinj, Ugljan,
Dugi Otok, Premuda and others. Timetables and
52.2.2 By bus prices are available online from Jadrolinija. (up-
dated Aug 2016)
1 Autobusni kolodvor Zadar (Bus station), +385
23 211555. 05:30-22:00. Frequent buses run to and
from Zagreb (3h 30 min), Rijeka (change for Trieste
in Italy), Pula, Sibenik, Split and on to Dubrovnik, 52.3 Get around
some services to destination in Germany. In the sea-
son daily buses to Banja Luka in Bosnia and Herze-
govina. (updated Aug 2016)

Left luggage. Storage is available at the station. HRK

3.00 per hour. (updated Aug 2016)
About half the buses for Zagreb pass through the stunning
Plitvice National Park.

52.2.3 By train
1 Kolodvor Zadar (Railway station), Ante Stare-
via 3. Mo-Fr 07:10-14:40. A few slow trains a day
run to Knin and connects with trains for Zagreb (5,5
hours or 8,5 with overnight trains) and Split (3.5 hr). A rowing boat ferry at the entrance of the harbour
(updated Aug 2016)

Said that, virtually nobody uses this train to get to these

cities. Train to Knin is just of one carriage with no A/C 52.3.1 On foot
and can be quite uncomfortable, however the scenery is
beautiful and will leave you in wonder at the numerous The centre is easy enough to get around on foot. To reach
stations which appear to be in the middle of nowhere. the bus and train stations or Youth Hostel you will proba-
bly need to catch one of the frequent local buses, which
are the only form of public transportation.
52.2.4 By boat
1 Long distance ferries, Istarska obala. Jadrolinja 52.3.2 By bus
runs large ferries every few days up and down the
coast between Dubrovnik and Rijeka, stopping o at Liburnija. Provides local bus services in the city.
ports including Zadar and islands on the way. They Buses are relatively new and well maintained. Single
also run almost daily ferries in summer to and from ride ticket 10 Kn (valid 50 min.); Double ride: 16
Ancona, Italy. (updated Aug 2016) Kn. (updated Sep 2016)
52.4. SEE 161

Virtually all the routes have a stop at the Autobusni kolod-

vor (Bus station). In the newer part of the city there is an-
other popular bus stop: 1 Mala Pota stop at the a post
oce at the crossroads of Ul. Josipa Jurja Strossmayera
and Ul. Stjepana Radia.
Single tickets can be bought either at the driver or at
Liburnija kiosk at a bus stop. Double ride tickets, sold
individually or bound into a carnet of 10 (so for 20 rides)
are available at newsstand (Tisak) kiosks.
NB: Buses are usually scheduled from early morning
(05:30 - 06:30) and nishing just before the midnight,
so plan your trips accordingly.

St. Marys Church

52.3.3 By taxi
The main taxi ranks in Zadar are located at the following
locations:

Autobusni kolodvor (Bus station)

Ferry quay at the Liburnska obala in the old town
(near the bus stop), tel. +385 (0)23 251 400
Obala kneza Branimira at the opposite end of the
bridge across the Jazine bay

52.3.4 By boat
1 Zadarski barkajoli (Rowing boat ferry) (Liburn- Kopnena Vrata (Land Gate)
ska obala 5 - Lukobran aka iga (Breakwater)),
+385 95 802 6134. 06:30-23:00. A small rowing
boat makes regular trips between the old town and
the breakwater at the other side of the harbour. The
boat is 10.5 meters long, 1.76 m wide, capacity: 10
passengers. These days its mostly a tourist attrac-
tion. 5 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

52.4 See

Sea Organ

Walk around the atmospheric streets of the old town, lo-

cated on the peninsula. There are 34 old churches situated
on the peninsula, and all of them with a very rich history.
The oldest is St. Simeon (Sv. ime).

1 Crkva svetog Donata (Church of Saint Dona-

tus). The church is one of the best preserved pre-
Romanesque buildings in the world. It is pretty dif-
cult to miss, as it has become the most recognizable
Zadar University symbol of Zadar. The church is no longer in use for
religious ceremonies, and today is a museum. It also
162
Pozdrav Suncu
holds a series of classical music concerts every sum-
mer. (updated Jan 2016)
1 Katedrala sv. Stoije (Zadar Cathedral or Cathe-
dral of St. Anastasia). In the cathedral there is an
impressive organ that was nearly destroyed in the last
war. Climb up the bell tower for a nice view over the
city. (updated Jan 2016)
1 St. Mary & St. Simeon. St. Mary also houses
a museum of antique religious relics and artifacts.
(updated Jan 2016)
1 Sveuilite u Zadru (University of Zadar). The
university in its current modern form was founded
in 2002, but originally it was founded 1396, which
makes it the oldest university in Croatia, and one of
the oldest universities in Europe. (updated Jul 2015)
1 Forum Romana (Roman Forum). Remains of
The Roman Forum - One of the best preserves Ro-
man Forums in existence. This is a common place
for locals to stroll, sit down among the ruins and en-
joy a nice summer day. free. (updated Jan 2016)
1 Kopnena Vrata (Land Gate). Historic entrance
gate to the city, built to a design by the Venetian ar-
chitect Michele Sanmicheli in 1543. Free. (updated
Apr 2017)
1 Morske orgulje (Sea Organ). This man-made or-
gan works with the motion of the waves and 35 pipes
to create a musical soundscape. A favorite for locals
and tourists alike, and accompanied by a light dis-
play that creates visualisations of the sounds being
produced by the organ. free. (updated Jul 2015)
1 Pozdrav Suncu (Greeting to the Sun). This mon-
ument of a 22 meter diameter circle made of 300
multi layered glass plate. It represents the sun.
There are 8 similar proportionate (in size and dis-
tance) representing the 8 planets. The circles are
illuminated during the night. free. (updated Jan
2016)
CHAPTER 52. ZADAR
1 Arheoloki Muzej (Archaeological Museum), Trg
Opatice ike, 23000, +385 23 250 516. Houses
artifacts that testify to Zadars long and rich history.
(updated Apr 2017)
1 Muzej antikog stakla (Museum of Ancient
Glass), Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 1, +385-23
36 38 33. Covers the history of glass, from early
glass jewelry and decorative items, to Roman era
amphorae and bottles, up to contemporary glass art.
Live glass blowing demonstrations are also given be-
fore 16:00. 10-30 kn. (updated Aug 2016)
1 Muzej Iluzija (Museum of Illusions), Poljana Ze-
maljskog Odbora 2, +385 23 316 803, e-mail:
zadar@muzejiluzija.hr. A collection of interactive
installations and optical illusions. 40-60 kn. (up-
dated Aug 2016)
52.5 Do
Relax in one of the cafes and enjoy the city, the sun,
and the people.
Swim, Take a dip in the beautiful clear waters. Its
quite common to see people sunbathing and swim-
ming along virtually the entire coast of Zadar. The
most popular beaches are:
Kolovare, Situated close to the city cen-
tre, a favorite for locals.
Borik, A massive hotel complex host-
ing numerous activities such as parasail-
ing, water slides and other activities.
Vitrenjak, Located close to Zadars sail-
ing club, Uskok. A beach frequented by
mostly families. In the nearby sailing
club you can nd a lovely open terrace
cafe oering refreshments and food.
Walk, Take a stroll along the paved seafront on a
summer evening for one of the best sunsets in Eu-
rope and listen to the relaxing sounds of the rather
original 'sea organ' set into the harbour wall.
Sail, If you wish to spend your holidays on a yacht
charter, Zadar has a lot to oer.The best season for
sailing is early summer with good S/SE winds in
May and June, while the winds during July and Au-
gust are generally calmer. Summer temperatures are
between 26 to 30C in average and the sea temper-
ature is about 25C.
52.8. DRINK
Adventure Driven Vacations, Zadar Airport,
+385912539025, e-mail: contact@adv.hr. 08:00-
20:00. Provides skydiving, sea kayaking and rock
climbing tours in the Zadar area. (updated Jan
2017)
52.6 Buy
Zadar has 2 major shopping areas: the old town with its
numerous shops, and the Votarnica commercial district.
1 Petar Zoranic, Knezova ubia Bribirskih 10.
General purpose book store, a good place to nd
tourist guides. (updated Aug 2016)
1 University Book Store, Ul. Ruera Bokovia 5,
+385 23 200 555. Book store of the university,
oering a decent selection of Croatian, English and
international literature. Tourist guides for Croatia
available for 100 kn. (updated Aug 2016)
52.7 Eat
1 2Ribara (Dva Ribara), Ul. Blaa Jurjeva 1,
+385 23 213 445. 11:00-23:00. Small restaurant in
the historic center of Zadar, 5 min. walk from the
Roman Forum. Decent food for a fair price. (up-
dated Aug 2016)
1 Hungry Eyes (Gladne Oi), Sutomiska 3, +385
23 213 992, e-mail: gladneoci265@gmail.com.
10:00-01:00. Specialized in grilled meat and sh.
Large portions, fast service, competitive prices.
Suitable for large groups and lunch or dinner with
kids. Outside the old town, reachable by public
transport (bus 8 Diklo - Kolodvor). (updated Aug
2016)
1 Mijo, Ul. Tina Ujevia 28, +385 23 332 728.
Italian restaurant specialized in sea food, pizzas and
pasta. Outside the old town, but close to a Borik. A
romantic restaurant oering dining inside and out-
side, great for couples but not for families with kids.
Large portions for fair prices. (updated Aug 2016)
1 Papica, Veslaka ul. 2, +385 23 312 957. Spe-
cializes in quality burgers served with fries, but with 52.9.2 Splurge
a Mediterranean avor. Quick service, no-nonsense.
Suitable for families with kids. Easily reachable by
public transport (bus 8 direction Diklo). (updated
Aug 2016)
1 Kornat, Liburnska Obala 6, +385 23 254
501. Upscale Croatian Mediterranean cuisine, high
prices. Making a reservation is necessary. Next to a
busy road, so not recommendable if you're looking
to dine outside.
163
52.8 Drink
1 Cocktail Bar Mango, Kreimirova
Obala 12, +385 (0)91 734 0769, e-mail:
mangozadar@gmail.com. Lounge bar with a view
over the bay. Large selection of alcoholic and
non-alcoholic drinks. Comes to life in the early
evening, only during the busy summer months.
(updated Aug 2016)
The Garden, +385 23 254509. Bedemi zadarskih
pobuna, ]. A fancy open bar with a lovely view
over the harbour, opened by UB40 drummer James
Brown. The Garden also hosts an annual electronic
music festival.
The Arsenal, +385 23 253 820. Trg tri Bunara.
A 17th century. Venetian Naval Warehouse, now a
cool Restaurant-Bar-Club.
52.9 Sleep
52.9.1 Budget
Hotel Kolovare. The only hotel close to the city
center.
Youth Hostel, The Obala kneza Trpimira 78 (5 km
from the city centre by the marina in Borik. Take
buses 5 or 8), +385 23 331145. Friendly.
Hotel Adriatic (On the beach Biograd 30 km south
of Zadar), +385 23 383556. 3 star designer hotel,
great pool.
Hostel Ljepotica, Obala kneza Branimira 10A
(right across the foot bridge, close to the city center),
+385 23-224-840. friendly
1 Villa Nico, Kreimirova Obala 138, +385 23
337 540, e-mail: villa.nico.zadar@gmail.com. A
small family run hotel and restaurant at the sea side,
halfway between Borik and Diklo. Bus stop of line
8 is 50 m away from the hotel. Fair prices, friendly
service. (updated Aug 2016)
1 Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa, Falkensteiner Hotels
& Residences Punta Skala, +385 23 500 901, e-
mail: iadera@falkensteiner.com. Falkensteiner Ho-
tel &Spa is a ve star hotel, located north of Zadar
in Punta Salka peninsula. (updated Jul 2015)
1 Hotel Niko, Obala kneza Domagoja 98, HR-
23000 Zadar, +385 23 337 880, e-mail:
hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr. Hotel Niko is located 3.5
164 CHAPTER 52. ZADAR

km from Zadar city centre. It oers a panoramic

view of the old town of Zadar. It has 15 stylish and
comfortable rooms. (updated Jul 2015)

1 Hotel Bastion, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13,

HR-23000 Zadar, +385 23 49 49 50, e-mail:
info@hotel-bastion.hr. Hotel Bastion is a boutique
hotel, built on the remains of a medieval fortress.
Hotel Bastion has 28 rooms, including 5 suites. (up-
dated Jul 2015)

52.10 Connect
Free Wi. Is deployed at the centre of the city.
SSID: Grad_Zadar_Free (updated Sep 2016)

52.11 Go next
Dugi Otok for its beautiful landscape, salt lake and
donkeys at the Telaica Nature Park
ibenik for the World Heritage listed Cathedral of
St. Jacob
Krka National Park where you can explore the
breathtaking scenery and swim close to the water-
falls

Kornati National Park a national park, numbering

more than 80 islands where you can nd peace and
quiet
Hike and climb in the Paklenica National Park

Visit the stunning waterfalls and lakes of the Plitvice

National Park
Chapter 53

Split-Dalmatia

Split-Dalmatia is the county of central Dalmatia in Hvar the longest (approx. 68 Km) island in Croatia
Croatia. It consists of a narrow strip along the coast of the
Adriatic Sea, an elevated hinterland, and islands. There Solta
are several rivieras along the coast. Vis
The Makarska Riviera, with a sunny climate and some
sandy beaches, in addition to the pebble beaches that are
usual in Croatia, is a popular destination. It is 60 km long, 53.3 Understand
stretching from Brela in the north-west to Gradac in the
south-east. The Biokovo mountain range towers above
the coast. 53.4 Get in
Split Airport has year-round ights from Cologne/Bonn,
53.1 Cities Frankfurt, London, Munich, Stuttgart and Zagreb and
seasonal ights from many more European cities.
Split historic city with famous centre and Roman
palace; county seat
53.5 Get around
Omi old town
Ruskamen excursion destination
53.6 See
Trogir historic town and harbour
Vinisce small town 53.7 Do

Makarska Riviera 53.8 Eat

Makarska the main beach resort town on the
Makarska Riviera 53.9 Drink
Baska Voda
Bratu
53.10 Stay safe
Brela
53.11 Go next
Drvenik
Promajna
Gradac

53.2 Islands
Brac the largest island in Dalmatia, with numerous
settlements

165
Chapter 54

Baska Voda

54.7 Eat

54.8 Drink

54.9 Go next

View of Baska Voda

Baska Voda is in Croatia, between Split and Makarska.

54.1 Get in

54.2 Get around

54.3 See
Museums

Churches

54.4 Sleep
Hotel Croatia, Iza Palaca bb, +385 21 695 900,
e-mail: croatia@orvas.hr. Check-in: from 4PM,
check-out: 10AM. In the centre in front of the small
yachting port. 18 rooms, bed & breakfast service.
200 meters from the beach. From 28.

54.5 Do

54.6 Buy

166
Chapter 55

Bratu

Bratus is a village in Split-Dalmatia (Central Dalmatia),
Croatia, close to the city of Makarska. Its a small shing
and tourist village with less than 50 inhabitants outside the
holiday season. Close to the main tourist hub Makarska,
Bratus has managed to preserve its original atmosphere
of a small shing community.
But Makarska is accessible within a 1h walk along the
shore, too. Also, after a 10min walk north you reach
Promajna, a tourist and shing village slightly larger than
Bratus with a market, grocery shops and a couple of
restaurants.

55.3 Do
Bratus has a small, charming beach promenade with a
small shop, a cafe and a restaurant.
Swimming is possible there and along the path towards
Makarska. In Makarska you can visit the nice old town
and harbor. Ferries leave for Brac and Hvar.
The Biokovo mountain range boasts various challenging
hikes and a scenic drive all the way to the top of Sveti
Jure, highest peak (1700m).

Bratus, Croatia
55.4 Eat
Bratus is a perfect place for families and people looking
for a small, calm village at the Croatian coast o the main Konoba Bratu. Excellent sh-restaurant, which
tourist places. It is also a great base for active holidays in oers several rst- and extra-class sh-dishes.
the Biokovo mountains.

55.5 Drink
55.1 Get in
There is a small beach bar Sahara at the south end of the
Get by ferry, plane, train or car to Split, 50km north of
promenade. For real nightlife you have to go to Makarska
Bratus. Drive along the coastal highway from Split to
Makarska. Get o the main road at Kravica, 5km before
Makarska. Bratus lies below Kravica at the waterfront.
There regular regional bus connections from Split to 55.6 Sleep
Makarska. Get o at Kravica and walk down to Bratus in
10 min. There is no hotel in Bratus. Accommodation is available
in private holiday apartments. Especially o season you
can ask the locals about space available, but during the
55.2 Get around high season it is good to book ahead.

Best way to get around is by car. Bus lines connect with Akrap Family (de/en). Oers private accommo-
Makarska and Split. dations.

167
168 CHAPTER 55. BRATU

Apartmani Milka Bero, Bratu 31, +385 21

621137, e-mail: milka.beros@gmail.com. private
accommodation

Apartment Buntic.
Chapter 56

Drvenik

Drvenik is situated between Split to Dubrovnik (Dalma-

tia), 24 km south-east from Makarska. Drvenik lays in
two bays (Gornja vala and Donja vala).

56.1 Get in
With the ferry from Suuraj, Hvar-island .

56.2 Get around

56.3 See

56.4 Do

56.5 Buy

56.6 Eat

56.7 Drink

56.8 Sleep
Apartmani Gabric, ivogoe Blato 34.

56.9 Go next

169
Chapter 57
Hvar
Fortress
Hvar is an island o the coast of Croatia.
The main square of Hvar
Gently rolling hills painted a brilliant purple by the fer-
tile owers, lush vineyards nestling at the foot of ragged
mountains, gorgeous beaches with tiny inlets and se-
cluded coves, luscious restaurants, boutiques, and a vi-
brant nightlife amidst the medieval streets of Hvar Town
are just a few of the treats to enjoy on this dream of an
island.
Imposing fortications hover above the uid blend of grey
stone and orange cascading roofs. The remains of walls
built by a long list of invaders descend towards the wide
promenade edging the brilliant blue sea and the quaint
170
shing harbor. Marble streets reveal one of the largest
squares in Dalmatia, Trg Sveti Stjepana as well as the
prized Cathedral of St. Stjepan and the Renaissance the-
atre.
Hvar Town may be the most stunning town on the island
but Stari Grad, the oldest city in Croatia, and Jelsa, as
well as a smattering of small villages, dotting the coast or
nestled in the lush interior are well worth a visit.
57.1 Understand
The town of Hvar
Island Hvar and especially 1 Hvar town and the neigh-
boring historical town of 1 Stari Grad are among the
most popular destinations in the Adriatic.
The area of Starogradsko polje (Stari Grad Plain) is an dis-
tinctive example of agricultural development by the an-
cient Greek colonists who settled on the island in the 4th
century BC. For this reason this area is included in the
World Heritage List
During the season (May to September) it can be very
busy, especially during August when large numbers of
Italians visit. Hvar was relatively cheap, without an exten-
sive tourist infrastructure, and it attracted a lot of young
people. However, this is changing as large ve star ho-
tels are being built and the standard of living in Croatia
is rising.
57.3. GET AROUND 171

Another view of the town of Hvar and the harbour

57.3 Get around

Buses meet the car ferries at Stari Grad and run to various
destinations such as Hvar town. Don't take taxis from the
ferry port, they're a rip-o.
You can easily rent a car for about 350 kuna a day if you
Narrow streets in Stari Grad wish to explore other parts of the island. The rental agen-
cies have rm policy of a minimum of one day rental (no
hourly rentals). You can also rent a scooter or moped
57.2 Get in for about 250 kuna a day. There are hourly rates for the
mopeds and scooters. The roads on hvar can be steep
and windy and there are no guard rails, so be careful es-
By either car ferry (approx. 2h), arriving near Stari pecially if riding a rented moped which is old and has
Grad or fast ferry (a hydrofoil) (approx 1h) to Hvar already done tens of thousands miles.
City from Split, services operated by Jadrolinija. Keep in mind that there are only 2 petrol stations on the
Buses operate to bring people to and from the ferry island: in the town of Hvar and near Jelsa. From Securaj
through the island (12 kn to Starigrad, 25 kn to Hvar to the nearest petrol station on the island is approx 50 km.
City (April 2009)). Note that as buses ll, late-
coming passengers are often required to stand in the There is a convenient water taxi that will take you directly
aisles during the entire bus journey. from Stari Grad harbour to the ferry for 15 Kuna.

Jadrolinija also brings you from Hvar town to Vela

Luka (Korula) and to the island Lastovo, and from
Suuraj in the east of Hvar to Drvenik (mainland).
57.4 See

57.4.1 History
Blueline operates fast ferries from Hvar town to
Split. The car ferries run most regularly (approxi-
mately three per day and more during the high sea- The Town Square in Hvar is among the most beautiful and
son (May to September) and call at Stari Grad. The the largest in Croatia. The square measures 4500 square
meters, and the town has developed around this square,
fast ferries run less frequently but also operate to and
from Hvar town. There are also ferries to other des- starting north of the square in the 13th century and then
tinations, most notably Italy. circling to the south of the square in the 15th century.
There is also a fortress at the top of the hill with walls
that encompass parts of the city. Its an easy walk, al-
Dalmatia-express is providing 24h taxi boat ser- though uphill, to the fortress...its worth the trek however
vice to the island, either from the city of Split or because of the wonderful views you have of the harbor
from the airport and vice versa. Service is available and surrounding areas. Don't forget to bring your cam-
also in heavy seas and during rain. ++385 (0)99 eras. There is a small eatery in the middle of the fortress
20 099 20 where you can purchase drinks and snacks.
172
The fortress
Vrboska, a settlement on the north coast of the island
57.4.2 Architecture
The Cathedral of St. Stephen dominates one end of the
Town Square, and was built during the 16th and 17th
centuries. The bell tower of this cathedral is four-stories
high, with each level more elaborately decorated than the
last. The cathedral was built over a previously existing
cathedral that was destroyed by the Turks. Parts of this
older cathedral can be seen inside the church, but most of
the interior was rebuilt.
57.4.3 The arts
Unique ceramics decorated with spiral ornaments in red,
yellow, brown, and white were found at a Neolithic arche-
ological site, Grapeva pilja, near Hvar Town. Since
such ornaments and engraving methods have only been
found on the island of Hvar, archeologists have named
this kind of Neolithic art hvarska kultura (Hvars Cul-
ture). The island of Hvar also has the tradition of making
lace, but from the threads of agava leaves. Nuns from the
Benedictine monastery in Hvar are masters of this unique
craft.
CHAPTER 57. HVAR
57.4.4 Hikes and walks
Take a water taxi to the nearby Pakleni archipelago,
where secluded strands of white sand, hiking trails and
pine groves await. Or hike for 2 hours along the Hvars
southern clis from Dubovica to the winery of Zlatan
Otok for a late lunch, a swim and a boat ride return to
Hvar Town.
57.4.5 Scenery and nature
One visitor describes Hvar as beautiful, crystal-clear
blue sea, big green hills, clean air and lots of old stone.
At sundown a stroll up old lanes from the square in Hvar
Town leads up to another lane which, high above the oth-
ers is extremely attractive and shouldnt be missed.
57.4.6 Religion and religious sites
The Bishops Treasury, adjacent to the cathedral, con-
tains silver vessels, embroidered Mass robes, numerous
Madonnas, icons dating from the 13th century, and an
elaborately carved sarcophagus.
57.5 Do
Rent a boat (5 horse power) for about 350 kuna a day and
explore the Pakleni Islands on your own. You can rent
boats right in the main square in Hvar town. The islands
are very close and make for an amazing adventure. Take
a picinic or a bottle of wine. The boat can be anchored
anywhere around the islands or tied to the rocks.
Rent a scooter for 250 kuna a day and go around the is-
land. There is lots to see and many interesting stopping
points.
There are also frequent water taxi that go the Pakleni Is-
lands that run every half hour or so.
Climb up to the panjola Fortress. Enjoy the magnif-
icent view of Hvar town and the Pakleni Islands, and
pick up Italian radio on your mobile phone or main lo-
cal Megamix Radio Hvar radio station .
Go dancing at Carpe Diem. This is not to be missed. The
djs are usually on the international circuit and the energy
is high.
HVAR Adventure, Obala bb (behind the The-
atre/Arsenal building on the main Square), +385
91 1543072. Oers sailing, sea kayaking, hiking,
rock climbing, cycling.
Adventure park Hvar Jelsa (Paint-
ball Hvar Jelsa), Jelsa Hvar (Near Hotel
Fontana Jelsa), +385 98 1723932, e-mail:
adventure.park.hvar.jelsa@gmail.com. Great
57.8. DRINK
things to do for families, stag party, kids,
groups of friends and more.Oers Paint-
ball,splatmaster,cageball,beach volleyball, bad-
minton,human table football, archery, boccie,giant
boxing (updated Feb 2016)
57.6 Buy
Lavender elds on Hvar
Hvar is known for its lavender, you can see it blooming
in the summer over large areas. Don't forget to purchase
bunches of lavender or lavender oils in beautifully painted
glass bottles the lingering fragrances will remind you of
the lovely time you spent on the island of Hvar.
Made in Hvar, Pjaca (at the main square), +385
21 718 438. 9-24. contemporary art and craft
gallery presenting local art as well as artist in resi-
dence concept. Moderate prices and high aesthetic
standards, unique and interested. Also, open all
year.
57.7 Eat
The local grilled squid with olive oil is wonderful, as is
the cucumber salad.
Guesthouse Novak, Jurja Novaka 9.
57.7.1 Hvar Town
Restoran Antonio, Burak 3, Zdrilca (island of
Zdrilca, rent a boat in Hvar town to get here), +385
21741485, e-mail: info@antonio-patak.com. Great
seafood and a good view over the bay 100 Kn.
The Golden Shell (With the port behind you and
the main square in front of you, head left past the
church and the restaurant is a small doorway down
an alley on the right.). Just o the main square near
the main arrival port of Hvar is the Golden Shell,
a small restaurant recommended as the best by the
173
Town
locals. The eating area is outdoors under a lovely
vine roof, and if you are lucky you may be oered a
measure of the home brewed g brandy. Be careful,
its extremely strong but the locals recommend one
a day to keep you healthy. The delicious national
dish of Croatia is available, rabbit in g sauce, and
the rabbit and potato with peanut sauce is also highly
recommended.
57.7.2 Pakleni Islands
Tonci, Sveti Klement, Vlaka, +385 21 742480, e-
mail: perinam@yahoo.com. Beautiful little restau-
rant in a garden of g and mandarin trees. They
make their own wine from the vineyards next to the
restaurants, the sh they catch in the nearby water.
If you order a desert of fresh gs, they will pluck
them from the trees around you HRK 100.
57.8 Drink
Carpe Diem, At the end of the riva (At the end of
the riva on the right side). Its all big cushions, sofas,
hammocks and mood lighting. Drinks leave some-
thing to be desired. Its a real shame, because its the
perfect spot to drink cocktails, but they make them
with avoured syrups instead of fresh fruit, and they
all taste like bubble-gum.
Prsuta Tri (on the narrow street just behind
the main square), +385 98 9696193, e-mail:
vimales@inet.hr. Good vine bar, has cheese, olive,
and prosciutto
Teraca, Placa (On the long terrace above the main
square). Friendly small bar with an amazing view
over the square and harbour 25 kuna beers, drinks
for 18 kuna.
174 CHAPTER 57. HVAR

57.9 Sleep e-mail: emilio.curin@st.t-com.hr. Check-out: 14.

Very clean and nice apartments with bathrooms and
At every ferry arrival, a bunch of people oering private balconies. The top oor balcony has an amazing
accommodation will show up. view over Hvar and the Pakleni Islands. 30.

Apartmani Grgievi (robigrg@gmail.com), Vi- APRTMENTS Hackl, +385 21 741514, e-mail:

tarnja, Jelsa, +385 977 942 942. Check-in: vakejsn@gmail.com. Nice quiet place.
14PM, check-out: 10AM. Welcoming house in
Jelsa, 30m from the sea, low prices. 5 apartments 1 Lukas Lodge (call Luka for a pickup), +385
(2+1, 4+2, 4+3 persons), ground or rst oor. Nice 917 347 230. Check-out: 1100. Nice location away
mediterranean garden, balcony or terrace for guests, from the noise, but within easy walking distance of
WiFi, grill, pets welcome. from 12. beaches, restaurants, main promenade. 120 kuna
per night.
Anna, Buzolic Tonci & Anna Glavica bb, +385
Vila Julie (Villa Julie Vip Apartment), Bukainka bb,
917303517, e-mail: anna.buzolic@hotmail.com.
+385 21 717916, e-mail: jedrahvar@gmail.com.
Check-out: 10AM. Friendly and clean apartment
Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 10AM. Nice villa with
just up the steps from the main square. 200 Kuna
stunning view, swimming pool and air conditioning.
per person.
1 Villa Pepi (Bodlovic), Ivana Vucetica 16 (South
Apartments and Pension, +385 21 773 250, along coast line), +385 21 741 183. Check-in:
e-mail: apartmentslavic@yahoo.com. Two air- 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Apartments for 2 to 4 per-
con double room apartments, one air-con studio- sons, direct sea view, 20 m from sea. 20-35 e.
apartment, and two rooms. 35 (studio apartment).
Apartments Blaskovic (in the vicinity of the beach),
+385 98 265 434. Nice view. Has a seawater pool
Apartments Bibi, +385 21 741 683, e-mail: and tness room.
hvar.cro@gmail.com. Ten minutes walk from cen-
ter of town and 20 meters from the sea.
57.10 Go next
Apartments Komazin, +385 91 601 9712, e-
mail: apartmani.komazin@gmail.com. Nice seav-
iew apartments for 2, 3, 4 and 5 persons.

Aparthotel Pharia, +385 21 735 393, e-mail:

info@orvas-hotels.com.

Guesthouse Huljic, Jelsa bb, +385 91 1543072,

e-mail: veselka@hvar-4u.com. Great location in
very centre of Jelsa on Hvar island. Nice clean
rooms with private bathrooms.

Kuca Soa, +385 911 18 12 74. Dates back more

than 400 years and is traditionally constructed from
local stone. It is a spacious two oor apartment in
quiet surroundings, located in the historic centre of
Harbour in Stari Grad
Hvar Town.
The beautiful, unspoilt and popular naturist islands of
Apartment Modric (Stone house Modric), Donja Jerolim and Stipanska are accessible by taxi-boat from
banda b.b. (Sucuraj), +385 98 921 04 32, e-mail: Hvar town square. As of August 2010, the main beaches
apartment-modric@sucuraj.com. Check-in: 2PM, of the island are used predominantly by clothed bathers
check-out: 10AM. Accommodation for 4-5 persons (the majority of island visitors), while the small rocky
in old stone completely renovated house, 20m from coves are used by a mix of clothed and naturist bathers.
sea. The available apartment takes the rst oor and
the attic; 70m2 large. 60-90/day per apartment.

Apartments Curin, Antica urin, Sv. Katarina

bb, Hvar Town directions=, +385 21 741-676,
Chapter 58

Makarska

Makarska is the main beach resort town along the 58.4 See
Makarska Riviera in Croatia, south of Split. Behind the
city the impressive Biokovo mountain range rises up to You can take a scenic walk around the peninsula, the ma-
1,700 m (5,575 ft) within a few kilometres from the sea. rina, and the main square. The peninsula area in par-
ticular is scenic, relaxing, and some parts are not too
crowded. Be warned that nude sunbathers like to relax
58.1 Understand on the southern side of the peninsula.

Makarska is on the picturesque Croatian coast. It is rec-

ommended to visit from April until October. For younger
people July and August. If you want take a rest with
no crowd on the beach then September is a good time.
Makarska is a good place to stay rather than visiting on a
day trip.
58.2 Get in
58.2.1 By bus
Regular regional bus service connects Makarska to
Split, Dubrovnik, and other cities in the broader re-
gion.
In the season (June-August) there is a direct night
connection to Banja Luka and Gradiska in the north
of Bosnia.
58.5 Do
Parasailing
Rafting and kayaking. About a half-hour drive
from Makarska, you can go rafting or kayaking
along the Cetina River. The river is generally calm,
although there are a few fast places, and one section
is particularly dangerous. There is a tour agency that
oers guided trips down the river. If you decide to
go, look for the cave that was used by Marshal Titos
Partisans to hide from the Nazis during World War
II.
Trekking. The mountains directly behind the city
have decent hiking trails. The area is scenic and
not too crowded, and you can get a good view of
Makarska if you hike high enough. Be sure to stay
on the trails and be aware that there is a species of
poisonous snake that lives in the area.

58.2.2 By ferry Nature Park Biokovo. The mountain that rises

right out of the sea, behind Makarska, with its
There is a ferry to Sumartin on Brac-island; travel- peaks and lookout points that aord unforgettable
ling time is around 30 min. panoramic views onto the Makarska Riviera and the
area around Biokovo. Biokovo is unique not only for
its position, but also for its geomorphology and its
biological diversity, which are the main reasons for
58.3 Get around Mt Biokovo having been proclaimed a nature park
in 1981. You can walk on foot into the mountains
58.3.1 By taxi behind Makarska, however if you want to reach the
best mountainous areas you will need to drive to the
In Makarska there is no single large taxi company, but ocial park itself. There are excellent hiking op-
many small operators provide a service with one or two portunities in the park, although sometimes the fog
cars. The taxi usually comes within 10 to 15 min from makes it dicult to have a good view of the sur-
the call. roundings.

175
176 CHAPTER 58. MAKARSKA

Kotiina Botanical Garden, a part of the Nature 58.8 Drink

park Biokovo that covers an area of 16.5 ha over the
village of Kotiina. According to the intentions of There are bars and cafes along the main strip of the beach.
its founder, Fra Jure Radi, the Biokovo vegetation, Most of the best dance clubs are concentrated around the
preserved in its original state, enables visitors to get marina.
to know the unique wild plant life of the area.
During the high tourist season (July to September), the
Grotta and the Deep are two popular dance bars that have
been built into a natural cave along the sea.
58.6 Buy
Grotta. Closed during the o-season. Bar and
At the southern end of the beach (near the peninsula), dance club in a sea-side grotto.
there is an outdoor market area. There you can buy sou-
venirs, beach gear, and food. In this area are other simple
but fun attractions such as trampolines to jump on. Deep. Closed during the o-season. Bar and dance
club in a sea-side grotto.
There are also several well-stocked supermarkets in town,
including a branch of the German discounter Lidl.
58.9 Sleep
58.7 Eat 58.9.1 Budget
There are many restaurants along the beach and in the Hostel Makarska, Prvosvibanjska 15 (city center),
main square area. +385 95 9077176. Check-in: noon, check-out:
10AM. First backpackers hostel in Makarska. It is
Citrus. in a safe, clean and quiet neighborhood. Nice and
peaceful, with friendly atmosphere. It is run by a
traveller who can give you all info you need about
Evo.
Croatia. 100kn.

Ivo.
58.9.2 Mid-range
Jenny.
Villa Buljubasic, Put Pozara 11b, 21300
Makarska, +385 95 80 80 364, e-mail:
Jez. apartment.makarska@gmail.com. Ten suites,
all equipped with air conditioning, TV/satellite,
Kalelarga. WiFi, bathroom, fridge, balcony and grill area, 350
m from beach, with parking. 40-80.
Mondo. Grilled meats.
Apartments Gabric, ivogoe Blato 34 HR-21
329 Igrane Hrvatska, +385 98 257 853, +385
Osejava. For sh.
21 628 741, e-mail: ivgabr@yahoo.com. Two 60-
65 m apartments, A/C, 2 double bedrooms (dou-
Roma, Corner of Metrovia and Molizanskih ble beds), 4+2, living room with sofa bed/couch,
Hrvata, +385 21 690900. Good if you're tired bathroom (shower+toilet) 50 m from beach, satellite
of the atmosphere along the beach and in the main TV, kitchen, refrigerator, dining area, cooker-oven
square. Relaxed but still classy enough for a decent (electric), with parking. 40-80.
dinner or a date.
Apartments Podgora, Ivana Metrovia 13,
Riva. Good for sh. +385 21625417, e-mail: franko.sapunaric1@st.t-
com.hr. Two 75 m 2 bedroom-double beds, 3 WC,
Susvid. Meat plates. apartments near the sea. Satellite TV, A/C, heating,
grill, kitchen, parking, phone, towels and bed-sheets
provided balconies, sea views.
Veza, +385 989895758. Traditional Croatian
peka, phone orders.
Vila Ventus, Molizanskih Hrvata 18A, +385 91
Bistro Herc. 5665374, e-mail: info@makarska24.net. 2 rooms
58.12. GO NEXT 177

with use of kitchen, 2 apartments with own kitchen, 58.12 Go next

2 double rooms, all with A/C, only 5 min walk from
the beach. 25-90. The bus station is on Starevia street near the intersec-
tion with Zvonimira street. It can connect you to many
Villa Kapulica, etalite Franje Tumana 13a (next nearby cities.
to the beach on the promenade), +385 21 695-
080. Five apartments and one room with balconies Dubrovnik (160 km)
and terrace overlooking the beach, which is only 5
m away 40-85. Split (60 km)
Island Brac (1 hr by boat)
Villa Jarak, Kralja Kreimira 108 (Between Hotel
Hvar (1 hr by boat)
Dalmacija and Hotel Biokovka), +385 21 615-
083, e-mail: reservations@jarak.org. Apartments Biokovo mountain (1.30 hr)
and rooms with balconies close to the beach; all
rooms with AC, bathroom, satellite TV, free WiFi, NP Krka (2 hr)
and kitchen. 40-50.
Nereva river (1 hr)

Cetina river For canyoning and rafting (30 km)

58.9.3 Splurge
Makarska Riviera 66 km of beaches:

58.10 Stay safe Brela

B.Voda
On the beach in Makarska, there are white beach chairs
stacked along the beach. Although there is no sign to indi- Tucepi
cate that there is a charge to use these beach chairs, occa- Podgora
sionally a money collector will come to demand that you Igrane
pay for using the chair. However, the money collectors
are vague about what you owe and how long you're paying Mala Duba
for. They may also swindle you because they don't give Zaostrog
receipts, so if another money collector comes along, you Drvenik
can't prove that you paid. If you refuse to pay the collec-
tor, he may threaten to call the police, but they don't seem Gradac
to actually do so. Just tell in English that you thought the
chairs belong to the hotel and that you thought they are
included in hotel price.

58.11 Connect
Phone The city area code is 021 (Croatia area codes)

Internet There are several internet cafes in town.

They're very close to the main town square and are within
a 45-second walk of each other. All of them charge 24
kuna/hr. Matrix seems to be more willing to sometimes
spontaneously charge you less than what you owe.

Internet Club Setup 20 m from main square.

Internet Club Flex Directly on Kalelarga Street

Matrix On a small street o of Kalelarga. Look for

a sign saying internet.
Chapter 59

Maslinica

Maslinica village situated in the bay west coast of the 59.3 Get around
island of Solta. Its characterized by beautiful scenery,
making it the picturesque cove and pinewood in the south-
ern side and the immediate surroundings with deep, well- 59.4 See
protected cove eulom and archipelago of seven islands.
The largest among them was raised in a V-VI centuries 59.5 Do
old Christian church with a monastery, of which up to
now of remains. The natural meaning of Maslinica com-
plete historical landscape architectural and environmen- 59.6 Buy
tal values of baroque castle and picturesque vernacular
houses.
59.7 Eat
Maslinica was made 1703rd When an aristocratic fam-
ily Marchi asked from a Venetian governor approval for a
new settlement and build a castle with towers for defense 59.8 Drink
of frequent pirate attacks. The castle is now converted
into an attractive and well-known restaurant Conte Al-
berti. 59.9 Sleep
Today Maslinica very attractive for tourists who want
complete peace during day and night. Castle Martinis Marchi. Now a luxury hotel with
marina for about 60 boats

59.10 Connect

59.11 Go next

Castle Martinis Marchi

59.1 Understand

59.2 Get in
Ferries and boats line do not come here, so it is connected
with Split through Roga.

178
Chapter 60

Omi

Omi is an old city located on the Adriatic Coast in 60.3 See

Dalmatia, Croatia.
Visit the historic churches of Omi

60.1 Get in Fortresses Mirabella and Fortica

Beautiful city beach (Velika Plaza)

60.1.1 By plane
The city museum and harbour
Take a ight to Split Airport and then get a bus to Omi.

60.4 Do
60.1.2 By bus
Listen to the Festival of Dalmatian Klapas
You can use services from frequent buses that come
in and go from Split, Makarska, Sibenik, Dubrovnik,
Participate in summertime activities the Fishing
Rijeka, Mostar. Local bus line 60 departs from Sukoian-
Nights, Crazy Dives and Pirates Nights
ska bus terminal in Split every 30 minutes. A one-way
ticket to Omi costs 20 kuna (available in bus), while a
round-trip ticket costs 31 kuna and can be bought only at Take a trip up to the canyon of Cetina
kiosks.
Go rafting on the beautiful river Cetina

60.1.3 By taxi Take a ferry trips to the islands of Brac and Hvar

There is taxi-van service that can be used from Split and Go and visit the city of Makarska, Split, Solin and
Makarska. Trogir and enjoy the beauty of old architecture .

60.1.4 By boat Visit surrounding places (Nemira, Stanici, Lokva,

Duce, Dugi Rat)
There is a ferry service from Ancona, Italy. Take a ferry
to the Port of Split and then use the bus to get to Omi. Go to the basketball, soccer, and water polo games
There are local boats that run several times a day from
Islands of Brac, Hvar, Korula and Vis. Take them to Do canyoning in Zadvarje (30 km from Omis)
Split and then use the bus or taxi service to get to Omi.

60.5 Buy
60.2 Get around
Traditional folklore clothes
You can get around the city by car, local taxi and bus
Omi post cards
service, or tourist trolley. You can also rent a bike or
moped from tourist agencies. However most people nd Handmade sculptures with city symbols
it suciently comfortable to get around on foot, because
Omi is relatively small city. Traditional Croatian schnaps

179
180 CHAPTER 60. OMI

60.6 Eat
Try Dalmatinski Prsut-Dalmatian smoked ham
(ham smoked and dry on specic way)

Fritule and Krostule (home made cookies)

Jela ispod peke (meals prepared in the traditional

way at the local restaurants)

Local sea-food specialties

Restaurant Puljiz old town: fresh sh, lobsters,

steaks, not expensive, long tradition, terrace, always
fresh food.

60.7 Drink
Rakija: hard alcohol made either from grapes or
plums

Prosek: sweet liquor

60.8 Sleep
There are apartments for rent located all over the
city that are relatively inexpensive.

60.9 Go next
Ruskamen
Chapter 61

Promajna

Promajna is a village on the Makarska Riviera in Split- 61.7 Eat

Dalmatia, Croatia. It lies along a beautiful beach; the set-
tlement provides very good opportunities for peaceful va-
cations and pleasant walks. The coastal promenade leads 61.8 Drink
to the nearby Baska Voda.
61.9 Sleep
61.1 Understand 61.10 Connect
The name of the place was rst used in 1674. A large
number of archeological nds indicate human presence 61.11 Go next
in these parts since 2nd century BC, although no remains
of a settlement have been found.
Promajna is located 4 km south from Baska Voda and
6 km northwest of Makarska. A larger part of the set-
tlement lies below the slopes of the Biokovo mountain,
along the old coastal road. In recent times, due to the
development of tourism, the village started to expand to-
ward the coast. Present inhabitants of Promajna, about
230 of them, are descendants of families which moved
near the sea from villages Bast and Podgora. Today the
inhabitants of Promajna are mostly engaged in agricul-
ture, shing and tourism.

61.2 Get in

61.3 Get around

61.4 See

61.5 Do
Entertainment programs are organized during the tourist
season.

61.6 Buy

181
Chapter 62

Solta

Solta is an island in the Split-Dalmatia county of Croatia, Sv. Gospa Lurdska u Grohotama
just to the west of the much larger island of Brac. Both
are near the city of Split on the mainland. Sv. Mihovil u Grohotama

Sv. Martin u D. Selu

62.1 Understand Sv. Jelena u D. Selu

Sv. Gospe od Kadalora

olta belongs to the middle Dalmatian islands. It lies in
the central part of the Adriatic Sea, near its eastern coast. Sv. Tereze u Rogau
In the northwest olta is 360km away from the coast of
Marunska lagoon (the most drawn in part of the Adriatic), Sv. Nikole u Maslinici
while from the Strait of Otranto (the border between the
Adriatic and the Mediterranean Sea) in the southeast it
is 390 km. olta is 185km from the Italian coast and Gradac Village
10.7km from the Croatian mainland (Uranjica). It is 15
km (9 nautical miles) from Split. - prehistoric hill-fort
olta is 19 km long (from the promontory Livka in the
east of the island opened on Bra to the promontory Mirine west of Donje Selo
Obinuki bok in the west). The largest width is from
the peninsula Rata in the eastern part of Neujam to the remains of villae rusticae
peninsula in the western part of the cove of Senj and it is
4.9 km. The islands coastline is 73.1 km long. Beside remains of the walls from antiquity near Donje Selo
the main island, olta also consists of 7 islets outside the locality Pod Mihovil
west port of Maslinica.

Grohote Village
62.2 Get in covers of ancient sarcophagi in front of the parish
church
62.3 Get around a part of an ancient sarcophagus in the parish house

old Christian sarcophagus in an old eld

62.4 See
remains of an old Christian basilica
62.4.1 Churches
baptismal font of a basilica and other remains
Sv. Nikole u Stomorskoj
chapel in the wall
Bogorodice u Neujmu

Gospe od Bori u G. Selu Roga Village

Sv. Ivan u G. Selu Banje - capital from the late antiquity period

Sv. Stjepan u Grohotama remains of villae rusticae

182
62.11. GO NEXT 183

Neujam Village

ancient grawe
ruins of sv. Petra

memorial house Marka Marulia

Stipanska Village

remains of an old Christian basilica

Gornje Selo Village

remains of a building from the late antiquity period

cover of an ancient sarcophagus locality Stomorija

Sv. Jele

old Christian sarcophagus

Maslinica Villare

the castle of the Marchi family from 1706. godine

http://www.martinis-marchi.com

62.5 Do

62.6 Buy

62.7 Eat

62.8 Drink

62.9 Sleep
The tourist community every summer season organises
a contest for the best decorated and arranged apartment,
house lot and a village. The main purpose of this is to
stimulate and encourage competition between the owners
of apartments and houses but also of the villagers so that
the whole island of olta can greet its guests as graciously
as possible. Every year as a prize the best get diplomas
so if you see such a diploma in the house youre staying
in be sure that the owner did his best to welcome you!

62.10 Connect

62.11 Go next
Chapter 63

Split

Split is a city in Central Dalmatia, Croatia, and the seat January or early February. If you nd yourself in Split
of the Split-Dalmatia county. The city was originally on a day with signicant snowfall, expect serious trac
built around the Diocletian palace (a palace/fort built for disruption.
the retired Roman emperor Diocletian) where the locals
sought refuge centuries ago. Wandering the historic cen-
tre of Split you can still clearly see the Roman walls,
squares, and temples.

63.1 Understand

Split, view from the hill Marjan

Because of its ideal climate, with 2,800 hours of sunlight

each year, local people have a few nicknames for Split:
The most beautiful city in the world and Mediterranean
ower. Many famous Croatian sports people were born
in Split, so locals often nicknamed their city The sporti-
est city in the world. The most popular sport institution
is the football club Hajduk. Large portions of the city
are painted with the clubs colors and logo. This is done
by Torcida, the oldest supporters group in Europe, estab-
lished in 1950. Besides the bell tower of St. Duje, the
symbols of city are the Dalmatian dog and a donkey. Lo-
63.1.1 Tourist information
cals have a high regard for the donkey because of its past
indispensable place in eld work and transport across the 1 TIC Riva (Tourist Information Centre), Obala
Dalmatian mountains. Hrv. narodnog preporoda 9. (updated Aug 2016)
Winters in Split are generally mild, with temperatures
above 0C, but despite the popular saying that the city
experiences snowfall once every 30 years, there is actu- 1 TIC Peristil (Tourist Information Centre), Peristil
ally at least one snowy day nearly every winter, usually in bb (at a tiny former chapel). (updated Aug 2016)

184
63.2. GET IN 185

Bus #37 (the stop is just outside of the airport walk

through the parking lot straight south. The nearest
stop is for direction towards Trogir. The stop towards
Split is at the other side of the road). This bus runs
between Split and Trogir mostly every 30 min. In
Split the line terminates at the bus hub Sukoian ,
which is a bit out of the centre and the port. So,
here you'd change to bus 9 or 10, or just walk about
a kilometre along the major road that runs by the bus
stop (stops for buses 9 and 10 are also by this road).
You can download a printable schedule. It takes 50
min. to reach Split and 10 min. -- Trogir. Singe
Diocletians Palace, reconstruction of the original appearance to Split 17 Kn; to Trogir 13 Kn (tickets are bought
from the bus driver). (updated Aug 2016)
63.2 Get in Taxi (just outside the terminal). It was advised to
check the price before a ride (about 30 min to Split).
63.2.1 By plane Approx. price to Split 200-300 kn; to Trogir 100
Kn. (updated Aug 2016)
1 Zrana luka Split (Split Airport IATA: SPU) (ap-
prox. 25 km west of Split, 5 km east of Trogir). It is, There are also plenty of options for pre-booked transfers.
after Zagreb Airport, the most important in Croa- A ride to the city centre could cost about 32 EUR.
tia. Scheduled services y to major European cities,
with summer charter ights from more. The airport
is about 25 km west from Split, near the city of Tro-
63.2.2 By bus
gir. It has free WiFi internet. (updated Aug 2016)
Split main bus station is located at the eastern end of Riva,
close to the port:
Flights to and from Belgrade, Serbia were reintroduced in
June 2012 after a 21-year hiatus. As of July there are four 1 Autobusni kolodvor Split (AK Split). Frequent
ights per week. As expected, there is massive demand buses run to and from Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Sibenik,
for these planes, so book with Croatia Airlines or Jat Air- Zadar, Rijeka etc. There are also regular buses to
ways well in advance in order to get a cheaper ticket. If and from Mostar and Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herze-
you are seated next to the window, you can catch a mag- govina) (210 kn), Belgrade (Serbia), Trieste (Italy)
nicent glimpse of Sarajevo from 21,000 feet. and major cities of Germany and Austria and even
Hungary. You can get detailed information on its
web site about departure and arrival times. (updated
Ground transportation Aug 2016)

Pleso prijevoz (Shuttle bus to Split) (from the termi- In the summer season there are more lines than o-
nal exit follow to the left to the bus stop; from the city season, for example in JuneJuly-August, daily night
departures are from the main bus station AK Split, buses to Banja Luka and Gradiska, north of Bosnia, as
platform No.1), +385 21 203-119. The service well as buses to Ni, Serbia twice a week.
run by the Pleso prijevoz. A journey lasts approx
1/2 hour. Bus departures from Split are scheduled On most intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage. This
(check for Airport shuttle bus) between 05:00-19:00 fee of about 0.5-1 per piece of luggage is paid to
with interval 30-60 min. From the airport depar- the driver upon boarding. Some drivers are rather picky
tures are scheduled to 20-30 min. after arrival of a about being paid in exact change in the correct currency
regular ight (even if a plane is delayed). So beware (sometimes a local currency, at other instances requesting
if you're ying by a charter ight! 30 Kn. (updated to be paid in Euros) and sometimes also refuse to be paid
Aug 2016) in too small coins. So keep some change ready.
For destinations around Split-Dalmatia County (Splitsko-
Shuttle to Trogir and Marine Katela. As per dalmatinska upanija) like Trogir and Solin check the bus
information at their web site Pleso prijevoz also pro- hub Sukoian.
vides shuttle services to Trogir and Marine Katela.
20 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)
63.2.3 By boat
Prijevoz putnika ele. Apr-Sep. Seasonal shuttles
to/from Split main bus station. 30 Kn. (updated Aug 1 Passenger port. Long distance ferries run three
2016) times a week across the Adriatic to and from Ancona
186 CHAPTER 63. SPLIT

and Pescara (Italy). There is also a large ferry that

runs twice a week up and down the coast between
Dubrovnik and Rijeka, stopping o at a couple of
islands along the way. Split is the main hub for local
boats and hydrofoils in Central Dalmatia. Several a
day run to and from Brac, Hvar, Solta, Vis, Korula
and Lastovo. (updated Aug 2016)

The maijor operators here are:

Jadrolinija. State-owned sea shipping company.

They have regular lines connecting the Croatian
shore to its islands and with Italy.

SNAV. Italian sea shipping company with ferries harbour, bus terminal, and train station
from Ancona to and from Split. Tickets starting at
30 for a single crossing without cabin.
63.3.1 By bus
Blue Line International. Sea shipping company
that operates between Croatia and Italy.
Public transit is organized by Promet. Most of the city
buses in Split are new, but some are very old and dilapi-
63.2.4 By train dated.

1 Kolodvor Split (Railway station), Domagojeva

obala 9 (at the port, 400m from the city centre). 1 Kolodvor Sukoian. It is the main hub for lo-
06:15-22:15. Trains run between Split and Za- cal buses as well as for destinations around Split-
greb, Split and Perkovi (where you can change for Dalmatia county (Splitsko-dalmatinska upanija)
ibenik). Timetables can be found from Croatian like Trogir and Solin. (updated Aug 2016)
Railways website. Trains are generally slower than
buses in Croatia, the price is approximately similar.
Left luggage lockers are available at the station. (up- Tickets. Are available at kiosks across the city or from
dated Aug 2016) a bus driver (only single-journey). Tickets must be vali-
dated on board by a yellow machine or given to the driver
Split train station is right in the city centre, it is a few for validation. Single 9 Kn (from a bus driver 11 Kn),
minutes walk from the port and from the old town. Ex- Double journey ticket (Pojedinana karta za dva puto-
pect very friendly grannies to be waiting with signs saying vanja) - 18 Kn, Set of double journey ticket starting from
Sobe (rooms) at all arrivals and they will jump on any- 5 - 17 Kn each ticket; Monthly ticket ('mjesena pokazna
one with a backpack. The train station is rather basic, karta') - 290 Kn. (updated Aug 2016)
because train travel is not much used to Split.
Trains to Perkovi run through a picturesque val-
ley/village of Primorski Dolac depart 5 times a day and
stop in every station taking 1 hr exactly to do the journey. 63.3.2 By bike
This is a very picturesque journey to make, and although
Perkovi is simply a collection of houses you could get Rent a bike and enjoy beautiful biking along Splits wa-
o and have a coee or go for a walk in the hills before terfront (Riva), continue to Marjan hill (approximately 7
returning to Split. Connecting Trains leave Perkovi for km), climb to the top of the hill for great view on the
ibenik several times a day, and should be marked on the Split town and surrounding islands. You can bike to the
timetable in Split station. east side, along the coast to nearby village of Stobrec. An-
other great option from Split is to take a day tour to nearby
islands of Solta, Brac, Hvar or Vis. You can take the bike
63.3 Get around on a regular ferry (they leave approximately every cou-
ple of hours in the summer season) and bike along quite
?'"`UNIQ--maplink-00000003-QINU`"'? roads and charming villages, explore great beaches and
Map of Split restaurants and return in the evening to Split!
Central Split is quite compact and most sights can be Older but rideable mountain bikes are available for 15
easily seen and best experienced on foot, but there are kn/hour (March 2012) at the northern entrance to Mar-
frequent local buses to outlying attractions and the airport. jan hill (near Mandalinski put).
63.4. SEE 187

63.3.3 By boat

Speed taxi boat is an excellent solution for fast trans-

portation of passengers on whole Adriatic. Said service
is available trough Dalmatia-express for direct transporta-
tion from airport Split to Split Riva or from Split Riva to
Dalmatia islands.
If you don't know how to sail, there are a few compa-
nies that oer skippered charters in the area. If you
are seeking something aordable, Antlos enables you to
book boat holidays with local Skippers that oer trips
around Splits coastline and visits to the neighbouring is-
lands and if you're looking for something upmarket, there Papalic mansion
are many superyacht charter agencies such as Burgess
Yachts, Navis Yacht Charter and Camper and Nichol-
63.4.1 Diocletians Palace
sons.
UNESCO World Heritage site The historic centre of Split
is built around the remains of this Roman palace. You
63.3.4 By train only need to wander around to experience it but you
can also pay to visit the excavated remains of the base-
It is a little known fact that there is a local suburban rail- ment of the palace. The palace has well preserved main
way service between Split and Katel Stari at the shore of streets cardo and decumanus. Roman palace is enriched
Katelanski Zaljev (Kastelanski bay). with some gothic and reinassance buildings which makes
a perfect match. Palace has 4 monumental gates Porta
Aurea (Zlatna vrata, Golden gate), Porta Argenta (Sre-
brna vrata, Silver gate), Porta Ferrea (eljezna vrata, Iron
63.4 See gate) and Porta Aenea (Mjedena vrata). It is probably the
best preserved Roman palace in the world.

1 Peristylium (Peristil square). Main square of Dio-

cletians palace with well preserved Roman architec-
ture.

1 Katedrala sv. Duje (St. Dujes cathedral). Orig-

inally built around 305 AD as a mausoleum of
Roman emperor Diocletians (the oldest cathedral
building in the world). Cathedral is also a very beau-
tiful mixture of Roman temple and Catholic church.
It also has a beautiful belltower which provides you
a great panoramic view of Split, nearby islands and
Marjan hill.

Peristil 1 Jupiter temple (Cathedrals baptistry). Ancient

Roman temple which became St. Johns church. 5
Kn.

1 Getski vrtal, Ul. Dominisova. is the smallest

park in Split, situated in the Diocletians palace at
the Dominisova street (Marko Antonio De Dominis
street). In that park are beautiful traditional Dalma-
tian tiramolas. During the summer these are full of
clothes drying in the sunshine. In every guidebook
about Split you have pictures from the Getski vrtal.
It is the location of a 500 yr old stone house which
was destroyed during World War II.

Sphinx Two original Egyptian sphinxes- One is located

on Peristil square, and the other in front of Jupiters
188
temple or St. Johns church. They were brought
from Egypt by Roman emperor Diocletian.
63.4.2 Beyond the Diocletians Palace
Riva is the main city promenade. Since 2007. Riva
has a new, modern appearance, which isn't up to the
taste of some who used to its authentic look.
Marjan - a hill situated on the west of Split. Marjan
is an oasis for many people who look for a natural
stress relief, a great place for long walks, jogging,
and bike rides. Marjans peak, Telegrin is 174 m
high and gives a wonderful panoramic view of Split.
South clis are popular within alpine climbers. St.
Nicholas church is situated on the east of Marjan,
on its south side are beautiful St. Jeronimus church
and Gospe od Betlema church (Madonna of Betle-
hem). House building is strictly forbidden in order
to save Marjan - the lungs of Split.
Varo - one of the oldest parts of town. A place
where lived most of the city peasants and shermen.
Charming streets and beautiful small houses.
Galerija Metrovi. The gallery contains works of
Ivan Metrovi, famous Croatian sculptor.
Archaeological Museum. The oldest museum in
Croatia (1820), about 20 min walk north of the old
town (entry 20 kn). Many artifacts and monuments
from Roman colonies Salona and Narona.
Old graveyards. Sustipan and old Jewish cemetery
63.5 Do
Riva
CHAPTER 63. SPLIT
1 Split city beach (Continue south past the bussta-
tion, follow the road which goes by the tracks, and
from the bridge over the tracks you can take a stairs
down to the beach.). If you have a longer stop-over
in Split, just 5 mins south of the passenger terminal
and the train and bus stations lies Splits city beach
where you can take a plunge in the Adriatic. free.
Sunbathe and swim on the beach at Bavice. To
reach this beach walk south along the waterfront
from the bus station and then follow the road that
crosses the railway line. There are many cafes and
places to eat ice cream. This is certainly not the best
beach in Croatia (it is packed solid most of summer),
but it will give you a feeling of 'real' Croatia as the
vast majority of people who go there are from Split.
There are also beaches around hill Marjan. Most
popular are Katelet, Kajuni and beautiful pine for-
est beach Bene. On Bene beach there is a restaurant
and a recreation centre. Bus No. 12 travels there.
Climb the campanile bell tower next to the palace
mausoleum. The stairs cling to the inside of the
tower, and in places the steps cross the large open
window spaces. The ascent is certainly not for those
with vertigo, but the views from the top are mar-
velous. It costs only 10 kn to go up the bell tower.
The historic core of Split with Diocletian palace is
among the rst urban complexes to enter the list of
the UNESCO world heritage in year 1979. Most
probably this one of a kind Imperial Palace was built
from 298-305 AD and is one of the most signicant
original structures of the period mostly because so
much of it has been preserved. Later this Palace
contributed to the broadening of the town because
as the city evolved beyond its walls. The unique sub-
structure halls were newley explored and each year
more of them are opened to the public. Some have
fascinating artefacts on display. May - Oct 10AM-
12 noon-7PM (?). Nov-Apr, opens at 11AM, dura-
tion 90 min. In English language. Starts in front of
the tourist info centre, please arrive 15 min before
tour is due to commence.
Snorkelling Experience. Snorkelling and diving
Experience by boat from Split harbour. Licenced
PADI diving center.
Green Market (Pazar). Splits Pazar is the place
to go for a variety of wares such as fruits and veg-
gies, clothing and other odds and ends. Lots of local
colour and excitement.
Picigin, Bavice. Traditional beach game with a
small ball (Bavice beach). In summer every year
there is a world championship in picigin.
63.5. DO
Grgur Ninski. It is said that if you touch the big toe The majority of sailing charters start from the city of
of the statue and make a wish your wish will come Split. There are many charter agencies where you can
true.
Bike tour, +385 21 388951, e-mail: Zenta or marina Spinut. There are also many charter
active@meridien.hr. Day tour with hybrid, agencies based in marina Kastela which is based in the
road or e-bike. Explore the old town of Split and vicinity of Split.
Marjan hill. You can also just rent a bike (some
also available at northern entrance to Marjan hill)
and explore the city on your own.
Poljud stadium. Poljud stadium known to locals
as Poljudska Ljepotica (Poljud Beauty)is a sec- Saturday around 4PM). Take your time doing yacht check
ond largest stadium in Croatia and has a capacity
of 36,000 people. The stadium was originally con-
structed by the Yugoslavian government as part of
the facilities for the 1979 Mediterranean Games and
was ocially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was
avowed fan of the team who play their home games
in Poljud HNK Hajduk Split. By far the most im-
portant and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a ded-
icated fanbase around the world has followed Haj-
duk throughout the teams history. There are numer-
ous anecdotes about Hajduk never played without at
least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Tor-
cida. It is the oldest supporters group in Europe. If
you are going to visit some match do not go on north
part, which is the cheapest one, that part is reserved
for Torcida.
Sea Kayaking & Snorkelling in
Split, +385 98408123, e-mail:
given2yadventures@gmail.com. Sea kayak-
ing tours with snorkelling and cli jumping in
Split. Explore Split in the unique way from the sea.
(updated Oct 2016)
Seabob. Explore some beaches above or below wa-
ter with a SEABOB.
Rock Climbing, DWS and cli
jumping, 0038598408123, e-mail:
given2yadventures@gmail.com. With over
400 bolted rock climbing routes in Split area
climbers of all age and experience can take part in
rock climbing adventure created for everyone who
wants to have thrill of climbing rocks. Marjan Hill
is situated at the peninsula in the middle of Split
with the beautiful limestone clis and more than 80
routes on the climbing area with the stunning view
of the surrounding islands. Special touch to the tour
is the opportunity to climb around churches and
hermit settlements dated back to the 15th century.
(updated Apr 2017)
63.5.1 Sailing
There are lots of companies running boats, such as Bus-
about, Topdeck and Contiki.
189
charter a sailing or motor yacht which are based in Split.
Most of them operate from ACI marina Split, marina
When you charter a yacht through a charter agency and
arrive to the designated marina there are a few things that
need to be done.
The most important thing is the yacht check in (usually
in. Familiarise yourself with the chartered yacht and with
the yacht equipment. The rule of thumb is the more time
you take for the yacht check in, the less time you will need
for the yacht check out.
After that you have to do the shopping for the charter
vacation. Don't neglect the groceries shopping because
the sea is unpredictable and you don't want to get stuck on
the boat without sucient provisions of food and drink.
You can do the shopping in a marina although the prices
are usually much higher there, or you can order from
yacht provisioning services who usually deliver the prod-
ucts to the marina at no extra fee. In Jam Yacht Supply
oer an online provisioning catalogue and you can or-
der from a large selection of groceries and other products
months in advance, everything you order awaits for you
at the marina.
Daily boat tours, +385 95 6129 500. Daily boat
tours from Split to Hvar, Brac and other attractions
such as Blue Cave, Green Cave and more. (updated
Sep 2016)
Daily sailing tours, +385 21 717 813, e-mail:
info@hvar-adventure.com. Daily sailing tours from
Split to Brac, Hvar and other nearby destinations.
(updated Sep 2016)
Yacht charter Split, Roga, +385 1 4882 209,
e-mail: info@sailingeurope.com. 08h-19h. One of
the most popular yacht charter spots, Split is consid-
ered by many to be the starting point to any explo-
ration route of the central Dalmatian coast.
(updated Sep 2016)
Speed boat tours from Split, Obala
Lazareta 1, +3859777447417, e-mail:
info@bluecavetour.com. 07am - 11pm. Best
way to visit more than 1 island in a day. Starting
from the strict city center- waterfront promenade
Riva"- Right in front of the Diocletian Palaces
southern basements entrance. Day speed boat tour
to the Blue cave, Hvar island, Bra island & Vis
island. (updated Sep 2016)
Yachting ACI Marina in Split, Uvala Baluni
8 HR-21000 Split, +385 21 398-599, e-mail:
190
splito@aci.hr. 08h-19h. ACI Marina in Split
is located on the left side of the bay in Split.
It is purposed for touristic sailing yachts and
motorboats not longer than 20 metres. Bigger
boats and gullets are not allowed to anchor there -
they should stay in main Split harbour. Marina is
equipped with parking places, small market. GPS
coordinates for sailors: N 43 30' 155 E 16 25' 801.
63.6 Buy
1 Pazar, Stari Pazar 2. Green market with perfect ranging from the romantic to the vibrant. It isnt dicult
fruit, vegetables and more. The best time to visit the to enjoy superb food and wine in a classical environment
market is Saturday morning.
1 Ribarnica, Obrov 2. Fish market.
1 Marmontova. Shopping street in the centre.
Prol, Algoritam and VBZ. Bookshops with some
English-language titles.
Shopping malls
City Center One, Vukovarska 207. daily 9AM-
9PM, cinema and cae bars 9AM-11PM. Opened
in 2010. 3 oors (5 garage levels) and Cineplexx
cinema.
Joker Put Brodarice 6. Opened in 2007. 50 shops
on 4 oors with Tommy supermarket, DM, Hervis
sports shop, Deichmann and a McDonalds. 15-20
min walk from the city center with buses stopping
near the front of the centre. There is a cinema on the
rst oor. The top oor has tness club, restaurant
and a sky bar with an outdoor swimming pool.
63.7 Eat
The most famous local delicates is Soparnik. It orig-
inates from nearby Poljica region (formerly known as
Poljika Republika or Republic of Poljica in the Middle
Ages). It is a dough lled with chard and baked in the
replace. On top comes olive oil and garlic. You can nd
it on Pazar (green market).
Italian inuences dominate on Croatias coast, amongst
the best are; Risotto with tender white scampi or black
calamari, a dish beloved by all Croatians. A wide selec-
tion of salumi, magnicent Istrian and Dalmatian hams
(Dalmatinski prut - comparable to Parma or Speck)
and cheese from the island of Pag, are well worth trying,
as are the large varieties of excellent Croatian wines and
beers.
CHAPTER 63. SPLIT
Do not miss Dalmatian paticada s njokama (Gnocchi).
Please note; in a world suocating under the weight of
processed foods, Croatias coastal cuisine is unique in that
most of its produce is organic.
evapi or evapii (diminutive), are small grilled rolls
of minced beef, pork, or lamb, or a combination of any of
these three. Usually served with chopped onions, Kajmak
(similar to clotted cream) or Ajvar (a relish made from
bell peppers, aubergines, garlic and chilli). evapi are
traditional Bosnian dish and they are popular across the
Balkans.
Splits eateries are to be found in a variety of settings,
with good friends and/or family.
Plenty of fast food joints between the Old Town and the
bus station.
Nostromo, Kraj Svete Marije 10 (just o Marmon-
tova). Good seafood and salad in a rather smoky
ambience with friendly service. Main dish 60-200
kn.
Picaferaj, Popovica 2 (a block W from Trg Repub-
like). Varied menu, a couple of outside tables Main
dish 55-150 kn.
Cetina, Radunica 16, +385 21 482 243. Var-
ied menu including local specialities, good value,
friendly service (English spoken), no credit cards.
Main dish 50-100 kn.
Kod Joze, Sredmanuska 4, +385 21 347 397.
The traditional family-run konoba serves tasty
dishes in style. Prices very reasonable considering
the quality and atmosphere. Mains 50-120 kn.
Panchos, Nepotova 3. Good Mexican place in the
land of cevapcici. Sta is friendly, the place is nice,
but a bit small. Mains 20-40 kn.
Buet Picaferaj, popovica 2. Small side street
restaurant run by a young married couple, incred-
ible food at a very fair price. Pasta with prawns and
mussels is 70 kn.
Fino Friko, ulia dvori 2. Because of its proxim-
ity to school, this bakery always has fresh and tasty
food.
Mala kua, Domovinskog rata 27d, Put rula 39.
daily 9AM-12 midnight. Fast food with delicious
marinated chicken grill sandwich (20 kn).
Popaj, Pojianska b.b., etalite Ivana Metro-
via b.b.. Mo-Th winter 8AM-12 midnight, sum-
mer 8AM-1AM, Fr-Sa winter 8AM-1PM, summer
63.9. SLEEP
8AM-2PM, Su winter 3PM-12 midnight, summer
3PM-1AM. The most popular fast food in Split with
great pizzeta (small pizza, 10 kn) and very big ham
sandwich (14 kn).
Hajduk, Matoia 4. The best ice cream in town
with big selection of avours. Yogurt icecreams 7
kn.
Pizzeria Bakra, Radovanova 2. 10AM-11PM.
Denitely one of the best Pizza in town, baked on
replace.
Biser Orijenta, Bihaka 2a (top oor of Lavevi
building). 11:30AM-midnight. Good European
Chinese cuisine. Not too popular among the lo-
cals, but the prices are fair and the service is friendly.
Mains 50-70 kn, duck and seafood dishes up to 120
kn.
1 Konoba Marjan, Senjska, 1, +385 98
9346848. Risottos, pasticada (marinaded veal
cooked in sauce), and excellent sh. Prices are very
reasonable and the sta very friendly. English spo-
ken.
Fife, Trumbiceva obala 11 (across the bay from the
ferry terminal). Lively and busy restaurant with
lots of seating and deliciously large Croatian dishes.
Mains 40-80 kn.
1 Kod Snge Vanevropske Zviri, Ulica Kraj Sve- There are many clubs on Bavice beach.
tog Ivana 2 (Inside Diocletians Palace, inbetween
Jupiters temple and Peristil), +385 99 443 8666.
A Konoba/Trattoria. Good Dalmatian speciali-
ties: Paticada, Paki sir, etc... Also propose good
seafood catch of the day, but sometime unavailable.
Seems to be operated by a single familly: The wait-
ers knows very well the menu! Paticada for 150 kn.
(updated Aug 2016)
63.8 Drink
Dalmatia is well known for its world class wines, but
when in Split it is a must to try soda drinks called Pipi
and Orela, produced by local beverage manufacturer
Dalmacijavino.
Lots of outdoor cafs are to be found along the Riva
seafront.
St Riva (Riva seafront). Has an upper story that
overlooks the promenade. 20 kn a pint.
Shook, Mihovilova sirina 4 (In the heart of Old
Town). Chill out cafe/bar with electronic beat in a
busy passageway. 15 kn a pint.
191
Gaga Bar (tucked away in a corner, just o Narodni
Trg). Cosy atmosphere, long list of cocktails, latin
music. Ask for a bill, because one round is 100 kn,
and then second one (the same one) may be 150 kn.
Atmosphere is nice, but the waiters are not. More
tourists than locals. Pint 20 kn, cocktails 20-35 kn.
Tonik Juice Bar, Ban Mladenova 5 (one block west
of Rivas end). Fresh made juices, smoothies and
coee. Smoothie 30 kn.
1 Buet Picaferaj, Popovica 2. A small restaurant
on a side street that serves fresh seafood dishes. Run
by a young married couple. Pasta with fresh prawns
and mussels is 70 kn (about 11).
1 Na kantunu, Dominisova 9 (within the Diocletian
palace). After 3 rounds waiter will bring traditional
rakija with honey (medica)-nice and strong. Sup-
porters of Hajduk Split are there, so when there is
a match in Split it may become too crowded. It is
probable the smallest bar in Split with just 8 tables
inside in a 15 m space. Great atmosphere and a
cappuccino is 8 kn. In front of the cafe bar there
are few tables where you can sit if the weather is
nice. Karlovako beer only 12 kn (about 1.7) a
pint, Velebitsko beer is 15 kn a pint.
63.8.1 Nightclubs
Imperium restaurant & lounge bar, Gat Sv Duje
bb (ferry terminal), +385 21 338 555. Nice high-
end interior with acceptable prices and spectacu-
lar view of old town of Split. House music, world
known DJs and parties.
OHara, Uvala Zenta 3. Rock and pop music on
two oors.
Vanilla Club, Poljudsko etalite b.b.. Fancy place
by the swimming pool with popular domestic and
foreign music.
1 Hemingway Bar, VIII Mediteranskih igara 5. Ex-
tremely fancy club.
1 Quasimodo, Gundulieva 26. Rock and under-
ground music. Mostly full with local alternatives.
63.9 Sleep
There is a wide variety of private accommodation avail-
able in Split, as well as a few hostels. Some of the best
192 CHAPTER 63. SPLIT

prices can probably be obtained by going to the bus sta- 63.9.2 Mid-range
tion or ferry terminal and haggling with the many people
there oering accommodation - even fairly late at night, 63.9.3 Splurge
there are still many people oering beds.
Guesthouse Vrlic, Drieva 7, +385 99 2152
352. US$76-125.
63.9.1 Budget
Hostels Hotel Atrium, Domovinskog rata 49a, +385 21
20 0000.
Adria Hostel, Bajnice (near the main coastal road
between Split and Omis, about 12 km south of Split.
Hotel Dalmina, Kopilica 5, +385 21 35 00 00.
Take bus #60 or contact the hostel to arrange pickup),
+49 177 7368595, +385 21 873028, e-mail:
info@hostel-adria.com. Check-in: 11:00, check- Hotel Globo, Lovretska 18, +385 21 481 111.
out: 09:30. Right next to the Adriatic Sea. Dorm US$140-228.
bed: around 15-25; bed in private room: 18-28.
Hotel Luxe (Hotel Luxe Split), Kralja Zvonimira 6,
Als Place, Petra Kruia 10 (inside the city walls), +385 21 314 444. US$110-221.
+385 98 918 2923, e-mail: info@hostelsplit.com.
A great hostel (and the rst in Split) run by a British
expat named Al, a guy who is passionate about travel Hotel Park, Hatzeov perivoj 3, +385 21 406 400.
and wants his guests to get the most from their stay
in Split. He even goes out for a beer with guests Hotel Peristil, Poljana kraljice Jelene 1, +385 21
sometimes. The hostel is in an 800-year old stone 329 070.
house inside the city walls, small and cozy with only
12 beds in 2 ensuite rooms. There is also kitchen Hotel San Antonio, Grljevacka 30, Podstrana (7
(for guests), and common area, A/C, and laundry. km towards Dubrovnik, on the right hand side,
Dorm bed: 110-130 kn. right on the beach), +385 21 336 111, e-mail:
info@hotel-sanantonio.com. 54 rooms and 3 suites.
CroParadise Split Hostel, Culica Dvori 31. LCD 48-95.
televisions and computers with free internet access
in every room. Dorm bed: From 70 kn.
Hotel Vestibul Palace, Iza vestibula 4, +385 21
Guesthouse Split, Lovretska 1 (next to the arche- 329 329. US$175-263.
ological museum). Free WiFi, private rooms avail-
able dorm bed 13-18.. Le Mridien Lav, Grljevacka, 2A, Podstrana,
+385 21 500 500.
Hostel Split Mediterranean House, Vukasoviceva
21, +385 98 987 1312. The hostel has been built
Marmont, Zadarska 13, +385 21 308 060.
into an old stone house just outside of the historical
US$359.
centre. Free wi. Dorm bed: 80 kn (low season).

Old Town Hostel, Dominisova 3, +385 91 920
1539, e-mail: info@oldtownsplit.com. Check-in:
1PM, check-out: 12PM. Free wi, 1 shared com-
puter, at screen TV with a collection of movies.
Pletkovic Hostel, Poljana Kneza Trpmira 1.
Silver Central Hostel, 1 Kralja Tomislava. Dorm
bed: 110-180 kn.
SilverGate Hostel, Hrvojeva 6 (A 5 min walk from
the train/bus/ferry terminals), +385 21 322 857,
e-mail: silvergatehostel@gmail.com.
Situs Hostel, Starevieva 3. Dorm bed: 110-150
kn.
Radisson Blu, Put Trstenika 19, +385 21 303
030. 68-171.
Villa Varos Hotel Split, Miljenka Smoje 1, +385
21 483 469. US$75-114.
Rva Apartments, Alijesijeva 6, +385 914 45
45 43, e-mail: info@riva-apartments.com. On
the 'Riva' waterfront promenade with south-facing
views of Split Bay.
63.10 Stay safe
Do not go to striptease bars because they are a tourist trap.
63.12. GO NEXT 193

Dentist you ask for it, they are quite exible as most people
are in Split. A return ferry ticket should cost about
Split-Dent Dental treatment, visitors to the city are 70 kn and has no time restrictions within the same
welcome. day.

Krka National Park - one of eight national parks

63.11 Connect
63.11.1 Internet access
There are internet cafs in the old centre of the city
Internet club Net Com P. Grgura Ninskog 9, . In-
ternet and international calls.
Smokvina Travel Majstora Jurja 3.
There are several more Internet cafs by the harbour just
north of the train station. One provides Ubuntu Linux.
DenCall internet-Split, +385 21 345 014, e-
mail: domagojeva@dencro.net. 8AM-11PM. 17
computers, connection speed: 1,5 Mbit, printing
b/w, camera to CD/usb transfer, call centre, inter-
national calling cards, rent-a-bike, luggage storage.
in Croatia. Enjoy in beautiful waterfalls and visit old
monastery on the island Visovac.
Omi - this little town is situated on the mouth of
Cetina river and its magnicent canyon. It is ideal
place for rafting and canyoning.
Horse Club - in village called Donje Ogorje you can
ride a horse in the nature. It will cost you 100 kn (13
) for one hour. There is also an option for riding
and sleeping in the nature for several days.
Makarska - a popular resort town with beautiful
beaches, 60 km southeast of Split. Frequent buses
(price 40-50 kn one way).
Bosnia and Herzegovina - possible day trips by
regular scheduled bus include Mostar, Meugorje,
Livno, Bugojno, Ljubuki, Travnik and even Zenica.

There is free internet via WiFi in the Peoples Square next

to the Lacoste store. Search for Split Hotspot

63.12 Go next
Salona - ancient Roman colony, one of the biggest
towns of Roman Empire. It had a population of
nearly 60,000 people. It was a capital of Roman
province Dalmatia. Well preserved amphitheater,
theater, basilica, cemetery and many other Roman
buildings. Situated near town of Solin, 10-20 min
bus ride from Split.

Hvar - A day trip by boat to this island is well worth

the eort. Boats leave ve times a day in peak sea-
son (JulyAugust), three times a day outside this pe-
riod (a single trip cost about 42 kn to Stari Grad
on Hvar). Hvar town is small but extremely attrac-
tive, with numerous large yachts moored in the har-
bour. If using the left luggage service ensure you
thoroughly check the prices and conditions of use.

Bra - An alternative could be the boat to the island

of Bra which is just the other side of the water.
Boats leave up to 10 times daily and it takes you 1
hr to Supetar. The last ferry back to Split leaves at
10:45PM. Try renting a bike or scooter for exploring
the island. When renting, take into account that the
rental service normally closes rather early but when
Chapter 64

Trogir

Trogir is a historic town and harbour on the Adriatic

coast in Croatia, with a population of approximately
13,000. Today it is part of the greater Split metropolitan
area or conurbation which numbers over 400,000 inhab-
itants.

64.1 Understand
Trogir is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as it is one
of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. It is a
fascinating place to just wander and also contains a range
of accommodation. At present the town is undergoing
considerably redevelopment, but it far from fully devel-
oped and you will still nd run down or even abandoned
houses. It is denitely worth the day trip from Split.

1 Turistika zajednica Grada Trogira (Tourist

Board Of Town Trogir), Trg Ivana Pavla II br.1. (up-
dated Aug 2016)

64.2 Get in
church tower in the middle
64.2.1 By plane
Split Airport is just 5 km east from the town. There are a
few options to reach Trogir from the airport or vise versa:

Bus #37 (Trogir-Split) (departs from the east side

of the bus station). A journey takes about 10 min.
Buses are scheduled every 20 minutes during the day
and every 30 minutes in the evening and on Sundays.
13 Kn. (updated Oct 2016)
Taxi (in Trogir the closest 1 taxi rank is located
across the road at the west side of the bus station).
about 100 kn, but its worth checking with the driver
beforehand. (updated Oct 2016)
Friendly local. If going to the airport from Trogir
bus station then some local might oer you a lift for View from tower
even a half of the ocial price, but of course this
option would be not quite ocial. About 50 Kn.
(updated Oct 2016)

194
64.5. DO
64.2.2 By bus
1 Autobusni kolodvor Trogir (Bus station). The
station is a hub for local, regional and intercity buses.
Regional bus #37 connects Trogir with the city of
Split and the airport and Katela a chain of set-
tlements along the Katelanski Bay. (updated Aug
2016)
64.2.3 By car
Trogir is in about 25 km (30 minutes by car) from the
centre of Split.
64.3 Get around
harbour front
The old part of Trogir occupies an island which you can
walk around in about 20 minutes.
For those who are eager to venture somewhere out of the
town there are a number car rental options.
64.4 See
Trogir is a jewel of a town encased in 15th-century walls.
Tiny medieval streets wind through the enchanting town
revealing hidden restaurants and eye-catching galleries.
A wide seaside promenade snakes around the town, cul-
minating in a charming port full of sailboats waiting to
take you to the islands of Drvenik Mali and Drvenik
Veli with their pristine sand beaches and secluded coves.
Stretching out from the main land of Trogir to either side
is an innite number of beautiful beaches as well. A
pleasing blend of Romanesque and Renaissance architec-
ture. Trogir is a delightful little town that is conveniently
located to explore Central Dalmatia.
1 Crkva sv. Lovre (St. Lawrence Church). Fa-
mous for its spectacular carved portal it is a former
195
cathedral of Trogir. It is also known as St. Johns
Cathedral (Sveti Ivan) after bishop John, who died
in 1111. (updated Aug 2016)
1 Knezev dvor. a 15th-century town hall (updated
Aug 2016)
1 Katel Kamerlengo (Kamerlengo Castle) (at the
waterfront). This tiny 14th century fortress was
build to control access to the harbor and the bay of
Kastela. . You walk on top of the walls and go to
the top of the big tower and enjoy the view over the
town 15 Kn.
64.5 Do
Explore stunning beaches, spectacular islands with
lavender-covered hills, small medieval and renaissance
towns and Roman ruins characterize the intriguing strip
of land that comprises Central Dalmatia. Warm Dalma-
tian hospitality and cheer is sure to capture your soul as
you explore the quaint towns and old shing ports.
In Poljica you can take peaceful evening walks free of
modern day noise. In the village you can nd a restau-
rant, shop and cafe bar. Peaceful place for leisure time on
the reach of attractive destinations (Trogir, Split, ibenik,
etc.).
64.6 Eat
Mirkec Pizzaria, Budislaviceva 15 (At the har-
bour). Good food at reasonable prices 60 kuna.
The End, Matije Gupca 10 (in the middle of the
old part), +385 21 88 42 84. Charming restau-
rant occupying the end of a very narrow street in
the old part. Croation/Italian food, mostly seafood
HRK 80.
64.7 Drink
64.8 Sleep
Apartments Hrabar, Put dragulina 19d (150 me-
ters west from the small bridge, turn right (north)
and drive for another 400m.), +385 91 5041736.
Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Well presented
rst oor 1 or 2 bedroom spacious and modern
apartments 500m away from the centre. The air con-
ditioned apartments are fully equipped and comfort-
ably furnished, with internet connection, satellite tv
and a large South facing balcony. Access to a shared
garden complete with furniture and barbecue, and
private parking. From 50.
196 CHAPTER 64. TROGIR

Apartment Hrabar Longo, Gospe kraj mora,

+385 20 435 555. Check-in: 14.00, check-out:
10.00. 65 + 20 m2. It is for 4-6 persons. 45-
112/night.

64.8.1 In the old part

Palace Derossi, Hrvatskih Muenika 1 (close to bus
station), +385 21881 241. From HRK 600.

Roso, Ribarska 21 (close to the waterfront), +385

91 7243148, e-mail: maja_roso@yahoo.com. Nice
and clean in good location. Ensuite bathrooms and
air conditioned. HRK 250.

Hostel Trogir, Trg Sv. Jakova 7 (Across the bridge

to the Island of Ciovo.), +385 91 579 2190, e-
mail: hosteltrogir@yahoo.com. From 14.

64.9 Go next
Split Just a short drive away, visitors may explore
this intriguing city with its busy commercial port,
residential houses, shops and restaurants all rising
from the incredible ruins of Diocletians Palace.

Solin with its Roman ruins are also just a short

drive away from Trogir and make an extraordinary
day trip.
Island Hvar and Pakleni Islands

Vis and Bisevo Islands

Green and Blue Caves

Stiniva Bay
Chapter 65

Vinisce

Vinisce is a small city in Dalmatia, Croatia. Situated in Souvenirs from Vinisce and Croatia.
a beautiful cove between Primosten and Trogir. Most
of the inhabitants are occupied with agriculture, shing
and tourism. The place is famous for its numerous small 65.5 Eat
bays apt for bathing, for its pebble and stone beaches,
promenade along the shore, clean air, virginal nature.
Dalmatinski Prsut-Dalmatian smoked ham (ham
The coastline near the place is famous for its underwa-
smoked and dried in a specic way)
ter world which can be interesting for spear-shing lovers
and divers. Jela ispod peke (traditional Croatian meals)

Local see-food specialties

65.1 Get in
65.6 Drink
65.1.1 By plane
Rakija: hard alcohol made either from grapes or
Take a ight to the Split airport and then take a bus service
plums
or rent a car to get to Vinisce.
Prosek: sweet liquor
65.1.2 By bus Dalmatian home made wines

You can use services from frequent buses that come

in and go from Split, Makarska, Sibenik, Dubrovnik, 65.7 Sleep
Rijeka.
Apartment Orlic, +385 21 394449, e-mail:
info@gajeta.info. Apartment 500m from the center
65.2 Get around of Vinisce for 6-8 persons and only 40 m from the
beach. Nicely furnished, with SAT-TV, DVD, bar-
You can get around the city by car or a bicycle. becue and pier for boat. Three bedrooms, balcony
and secured parking place.

Vinisce, +385 958572527. Private accommoda-

65.3 Do tion in Vinsce.

Swim and dive on beautiful and clean beaches Apartment Cicak,In rst line from the coast, open
view to the sea. +385 981870985, [meilto:ivona.
Go and visit the city of Split, Solin and Trogir and ducic@gmail.com] Looking forward to Your visit!
enjoy the beauty of old architecture

Discover nearby beaches

65.8 Connect

65.4 Buy 65.9 Go next

Post cards Pizzeria, Restaurants and Coee place

197
198 CHAPTER 65. VINISCE

Drive to Trogir or Split for nightlife activities, discos

and theaters.
Visit the most famous discotheque Aurora (in pri-
mosten)
Chapter 66

Vis

Vis is one of the Dalmatian islands in Croatia. bike for 24h. Taxis are available in the parking lots of the
two main towns, English is sometime not spoken, so be
prepared. A 10 km return ride on day time costs about
66.1 Get in 300 kuna.
Many companies organizes excursion with their boats.
The island can be reached by ferry from Split. The jour- Typically tours leave in the morning around 9AM or ac-
ney takes around 2 hours and 30 minutes and costs about cording to weather conditions. Taxi boat service is more
45 Kune. You'll arrive at the port of Vis. dicult to nd and more expensive.

66.2 Get around 66.3 See

The island has good roads, an inheritance of the previous The island is plenty of superb beaches. Most of them are
status of the island as militar base. The main road goes peaceful even in full season. In general the seafront is not
all around the island for about 30 km. Other roads cutting so exploited and looks really natural.
the island in the middle exists as well.

Pebble beach at Srebrena beach

A Dalmatian road
On the south coast, close to the village of Rukavac, near
Vis is a small coastal town and you could easily walk ev-the city of Milna, there is Srebrena beach or the Silver
erywhere. You can go to Komia at the northern bay by beach. This is a stunning white pebbled beach, which
bus (15-20 mins, 20 Kune). Regular bus service connects certainly deserves a visit. In the inner part of the bay
Vis harbour to Komiza, this is scheduled according to thethere is the part of Srebrena covered with pebbles. This
departures and arrival time of the ferry from the main part is typically more crowded, while the rocky part is just
land. Departure from Komiza are typically one houre be- few meters away and look outside the bay and is certainly
fore the scheduled departure of the ferry from Vis. The much more peaceful. You can nd bars, and restaurant
bus leaves Vis few minutes later the ferry arrival. at ten minutes walking from the beach, close to the place
There are rental service for cars, scooters and bikes. where you have to leave your car.
Prices as of August 2009 are 500 kuna to rent a car for One of the most extraordinary and stunning inlets in the
4h, 350 kuna to rent a scooter for 24h and 150 to rent a Adriatic is Stiniva bay on north of the island of Vis. The

199
200 CHAPTER 66. VIS

Kamenica beach
Srebrena beach
66.4 Do
beach is not accessible by car and you have to walk a dif-
cult and steep path for about 30 minutes. 66.5 Buy
Stoncica bay is located about 6km from the city of Vis
on the north eastern shore of the island of Vis. It is prob- 66.6 Eat
ably the most popular beach among young people. There
you can nd a nice kiosk with ice creams and refresh- Food on the island can be really cheap compared to many
ments, a cosy restaurant and a beach volley playground. western european countries. Pizza is rather popular but
The beach can be crowded in full season. It is probably do not expect to eat the same thing you nd in its home-
the best beach in the island as far as concerns facilities.land. However the Italian inuence in the food is rather
Nice beach are also at walking distance from the town of strong and you can be surprised by some pizza you can
Komiza. Most notably the beach of Kamenica. There nd on the island.
you can nd a nice bay with pebbles and a cosy atmo-
sphere due to the Acquarius bar that on day time runs just Limoncello, Vis, +385 91 110 0312. The restau-
few meters away from the seafront. No food is served, but rant has its tables in a charming garden plenty of
you can nd all kinds of refreshments. a Mediterranean mood. Fish is excellent and the
dishes cooked on wooden re are so tasty that is dif-
cult to tell. The choice is also good compared to
other places on the island. A must.

Kantun, 16, Biskupa Mihe Pusica, Vis, +385 91

371 1306. Very popular restaurant with the atmo-
sphere of a sherman house. Very good for occa-
sions. Reservation needed.

Barba, 00385(0)21713742. Nice restaurant in

Komiza with food cooked on wooden re.

Jastozera, +385 91 543 6422. Pricey lobster

Kamenica beach near Komiza
Going further south from Kamenica you can nd a nudist
beach.
NW from the center of the town of Komiza there is the
main beach of Komiza. There you can nd many facil-
ities like a bar and a restaurant. Really close by there is
the diving center of the town. The beach is covered with
pebbles and is typically rather crowded for the local stan-
dards.
house in the town of Komiza.
Bako, 4, Gunduliceva, Komiza, 098 577994.
Very cosy place in the town of Komiza. Food is
quite good, prices are in the averace. The terrace
is really nice, so close to the sea that you can really
feel it.
Plaza. is one of the best, and cheapest!, pizzeria
in the town of Komiza. It is located in the town of
Komiza near the hotel and the main beach. Prices
are around 70 kuna for a meal and the food is rather
good.
66.10. GO NEXT 201

1 Dionis, Matije Gupca 1, 21480 Vis, +385

21 711 963, toll-free: +385 21 711 126, e-mail:
dionis@dionis.hr. serves great Italian and Dalma-
tian food at reasonable prices. Try the calamari
risotto! main dishes around 8-12. (updated Aug
2016)
Kolderaj, Ante Starcevica 2, Vis. is a small bakery
at the coast where you can get coee and tea as well.

66.7 Drink

66.8 Sleep
Apartments are available in the town of Vis and Komiza,
and in houses on the seafront. Prices are about 350 kuna
for a 1 bedroom aprtment in full season.

66.9 Connect

66.10 Go next
Chapter 67

Brac

Bra is an island in the Adriatic Sea, in the Split-Dalmatia 67.4 Talk

county of Croatia, near the city of Split. It is the largest
island in Dalmatia and has a population of 14,000. Each townlet and village on the Bra island has its own
In landscape, Bra is similar to its well known neighbor dialect but many people speak English, German or Italian,
Hvar, with its rolling hills, pine and g trees, isolated especially if working in tourism.
bays and clear water. Bra has two larger towns, Bol and
Supetar.
67.5 Get in
67.1 Cities Ferries sail from Split to Supetar (50 min), and
Makarska to Sumartin (30 min) timetable. A
catamaran (passengers only) runs from the island of
Hvar to Bol.

Bol Airport has seasonal and charter ights.

67.6 Get around

67.6.1 By bus
All the major destinations on the island are covered by the
bus services run by Autotrans company.

67.6.2 By car
Town of Bol
In almost every place, it is possible to rent cars, scooters
also quads and bicycles to explore the island.
Supetar

Bol
67.7 See
The charming village of Milna
1 Pustinja Blaca (Blaca hermitage) (Either by car
Pucisca to Dragovoda then hike down the path or by boat to
Uvala Blaca then hike up the rather steep hill). Tu-Su
The beautiful Bobovia na Moru 08:00-17:00. A former monastery originating from
1551, now a museum run by two brothers. In the
2007 the hermitage was included in the UNESCO
67.2 Other destinations World Heritage Tentative List. guided tour 40 Kn.
(updated Oct 2016)

67.3 Understand 1 Vidova gora. It is the highest mountain of all

Adriatic islands. It has a great view to the Zlatni Rat

202
67.10. DRINK 203

67.10 Drink
Bra is famous for its wines, the most famous is Bolski
Plavac. Spirits made of grapes with herbs.

67.11 Sleep

67.12 Stay safe

67.13 Go next
Blaca hermitage

beach, place Bol and islands Hvar and Vis. (updated

Oct 2016)

Recommend to visit Dragons cave near village Mur-

vica on the south side of island.

Dominican monastery in Bol has a great collection

prehistoric items, amphoras and numismatic collec-
tion.

Museum of the island in the village krip.

67.8 Do

Murvica beach

Visit many pebble beaches and private coves, diving,

kitesurng and windsurng in Bol.

67.9 Eat
Try Bra dishes of domestic lamb (vitalac) and famous
Bra cheese.
Chapter 68

Bol

Bol is a town on the island of Brac in Dalmatia. Situated
in a secluded place on the southern coast of the island,
Bol is the oldest town of Brac and one of the most famous
seaside resorts of the Adriatic.
68.1 Get in
island and one set of trac lights! Buses take tourists
and locals alike around the island or you could hire a
car/scooter to explore.
Once you are in Bol everything is within walking distance,
just make sure you have a good pair of at shoes as the
town is set on a hill!

68.3 See
Bol has some beautiful historic buildings including the
ancient monastery and houses built by the Venetian rulers.
The main thing to see is the idyllic views at every turn.
If you are feeling active, Vidova Gora, the highest point
on the island, is just behind Bol and gives fabulous views
across the Dalmatian coast.

68.4 Do

Bol Harbour

The most common way to get to Bol is by boat from Split

Harbour, which is easily reached on the frequent buses
from Split Airport (40 mins). There is a direct catama-
ran from Split once a day at 4PM (1 hour), every day of
the year. Alternatively, take the car ferry from Split to
Supetar on the other side of the island (approx 1 hour,
services hourly in season), and then take the bus to Bol
(approx 40 mins). Check for the timetable of the buses.
If you take ferry later in the evening you will have to take
taxi since there are no buses after 7PM. For the correct
bus timetable check local agencies before arrival.
In high season there are ights to the airport on Brac Is- Zlatni Rat
land itself which is less than 10 km from Bol, these tend
to come from Zagreb early on a Saturday morning.
Enjoy diving, windsurng, water sports (tubes and
banana) and Bol beaches.
68.2 Get around
Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape) is a triangle beach that
Brac is a small island - it takes about 40 mins to drive has trees in its middle. When you stand in the won-
from north to south, there is one roundabout on the whole derful water on one of the sides of the beach you

204
68.7. SLEEP 205

will see basically only the trees, the sea... and the 68.7.2 Hotels
sky. Perhaps the most beautiful beach in Croatia.
Bluesun hotels & resorts. 3 and 4 star hotels. Ela-
phusa, Borak and Bonaca.
Play tennis on one of 26 beautifully-situated clay
tennis courts, with mountains behind and seaviews
in the front. Zlatni rat beach resort. 4 star resort just few me-
ters from Zlatni rat beach.
Bol is famous as ideal spot for the windsurng and
kitesurng. Sport centers in Bol provide courses 68.7.3 Apartments
with experienced instructors as well as the rent of
the equipment. 1 Bol apartments, +385 98 286600, e-mail:
holiday@bolcroatia.com. Check-in: 16:00, check-
out: 10:00. Bol Apartments on best locations in
68.5 Eat Bol. Only newly refurbished and luxury apartments
on oer. Also villas with swimming pool. 75.
Bol has a great selection of reasonably priced restaurants Apartments Buljan Bol. Only 200 m from cen-
and cafe-bars. For 8-10 kuna (around 1 or 1 Euro), you tre with private parking and barbecue. Apartments
can have a cappuccino in a cafe-bar on the waterfront and have terrace with sea view, SAT TV, air condition
watch the world go by for as long as you want. You might and microwave oven.
see Bernie Ecclestone arrive on his yacht or catch Goran
Ivanisevic wandering around (he has a house nearby). Zlatni Bol apartments. 9 luxury apartments for 2
The old wine cellar (Podrum) is a beautiful venue for cou- to 4 persons. Each apartment is equipped with air
ples and large groups alike when you would prefer to eat conditioner, SAT TV, and all other appliances that
indoors, or try Maza and Topolino for squid pizza (50 will make your stay pleasant. Only 500m from the
kuna, around 6). In the restaurants in Bol you can try house is Zlatni rat beach and centre is 300m away.
famous island brac lamb as well as the fresh sh that lo-
Apartment Santamaria. Two double bedroom
cal sherman bring everyday on the market.
apartment benets from a well-stocked kitchen and
living room with a sofa bed, satellite TV, private bal-
cony, air conditioning, parking and fabulous triple
68.6 Drink aspect sea-views. There is a supermarket only 100m
away and 2 restaurants within 50m. Both the Zlatni
Bols numerous cafe-bars are open early till late, so you Rat beach and the centre are only 10 minutes walk
can drink beer or coee from 6AM to midnight. There away.
are two excellent open-air cocktail bars, one halfway be-
Bol apartments. Are built with attention to detail
tween the town and the beach, so you can top up on your
to create an attractive ambient. Each apartment has
way home, and Varaderos, right in the centre of town,
separate entrance, seaside view, air conditioning and
which serves a great array of well-known drinks. In sum-
top quality furnishings, with sat TV, DVD, music
mer there is a house DJ and a great vibe.
plus jacuzzi, gym and sauna at disposal.

Alpeza Bol apartments. 4 double bedroom apart-

68.7 Sleep
Bol has plenty of accommodation to oer. From luxury
hotels to hostels to simple and nice private rooms.
68.7.1 Hostels
Funky Donkey Hostel, Domovinskog
Rata 62, +385 91 341 6848, e-mail:
funkydonkeyhostel@gmail.com. Check-in: 14.00,
check-out: 12.00. 8 minutes away from the bus
station and the ferry port. Only a 15 minute walk
to the famous Zlatni Rat beach. Free WiFi, free
Internet access, no lockout, 24 hour access, large
terrace, BBQ area, and multiple kitchen facilities.
ments and 5 one bedroom apartments. All apart-
ments are fully equipped and private parking place
is secured for all guests. Each apartment has air con-
dition, sat TV and free WLAN internet.
Apartments Kristian, Ivana Gundulica 14.
Check-in: noon, check-out: 10AM. Five apart-
ments which are fully equipped including air
conditioner and satellite TV. Every apartment has
its own parking space and free wireless internet
connection. 200m from sea and close to beach
Zlatni rat.
Studio Zlatni rat. In small and quiet residential
area near Borak beach and hotels Borak and Ela-
phusa. Everything is in walking distance, centre,
beaches, tennis, market, cocktail bar Bolero. You
206 CHAPTER 68. BOL

have your own parking place. Zlatni rat studio 24m2

is elegantly furnished in modern style and equipped
with A/C, sat-TV and private parking.

Villa Oliva. Is luxury villa with 4 separated apart-

ments accommodating up to 10 people. Villa is lo-
cated in private olive grove with pool and private
parking. Close to beaches and tennis center.

1 Sea Pearl apartments (Sea Pearl Bol apart-

ments), Rai 9, +385 98 286600, e-mail:
holiday@bolcroatia.com. Bol Apartments are new
apartments that arebuilt in 2016, actually a house in
center of Bol was rebuilt into four 4* apartments.
Its location is the one to wish for. In the heart of
Bol, just meters away from sea, 10 meters to closest
beach and with stunning view. 50. (updated Mar
2017)

68.8 Go next
Bol oers many dierent types of transport for hire when
you are ready to explore: cycles, scooters, quad bikes,
cars, and boats. You can easily explore some of the other
towns on Brac island or hop over to Hvar, a major desti-
nation in its own right on the island facing Bol. A day trip
to Split is highly recommended, to explore the fascinating
architecture or just go shopping.
Chapter 69

Milna

Milna is a small town on the island of Brac. 69.1.1 By boat

The ferries to the island are operated by Jadrolinia. While
there is no car ferry directly to Milna, car ferries arrive to
Supetar from Split and to Sumartin from Makarska.
Additionally, a passenger catamaran connects Milna with
Split and Hvar (one connection daily in the main summer
season).

69.2 Get around

As Milna is a rather small place, you can walk everywhere
on foot. For more distant trips it is possible to rent a car,
a scooter or a mountain bike:

Car rental eRentaCar, Milna, Riva bb, +358 99

3000 131. During the main tourist season in sum-
mer it is recommended to book in advance.

69.3 See
A small old town with the harbor, which is quite big for a
town that small. Lots of stone. The harbor is also where
it is where all is happening.

Church and the Port of Milna

69.1 Get in
Milna
Buses run several times a day from Supetar, the village
where the ferry docks. Unfortunately, they stop in the
late afternoon or early evening -- even in summer!, so you
must rent a scooter or car, or take a taxi. 69.4 Do
A car rental will let you explore the island and reach idyl-
lic beaches. Relax at the harbor

207
208 CHAPTER 69. MILNA

Go to nearby beaches. It is worth walking for the

beach out of town, beyond the Marina. It is also
possible to relax in the shadow of pine trees there.
Further on, where the dirt road replaces the asphalt
one, the beach becomes more rocky and wild. Nice
beaches are also south of Milna, for example in 1
Osibova bay.
Hike or cycle along the shore or inland on small
roads between the olive groves
Visit the small galleries
Walk through the old streets of this village
Take beautiful photos of old stone houses, sky and
sea
Listen to music on summer evenings
Large international 1 marina attracts boaters.

69.5 Buy
Vino, port wine, Karlovacko, fresh sh and the best cafe
lattes East of Italy! Fresh produce market daily. Home
made wine and brandy.

69.6 Eat
1 Restaurant Plaza. 8:00-23:00. As a part of the
Illyrian apartment resort, the restaurants terrace is
located directly at the beach shaded by a pine for-
est. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners in the Mediter-
ranean style (including tasty pizza) are oered by
friendly sta.

69.7 Drink

69.8 Sleep
For renting of a local apartments you can contact the local
tourist information or some of the locals rent out their
apartments in the summer.

Serenity Retreat. Glorious harbor views from gor-

geous stone apartments on hill in old town; terraces;
barbeque; garden. 30 seconds from the harbour.
Milna-born host.

69.9 Connect

69.10 Go next
Chapter 70
Supetar
Supetar is the main city of the island of Bra, Croatia.
This lively town with 3062 people living in it is famous
for its architecture, past and cultural tradition. Due to its
long, beautiful gravel and sand beaches surrounded with
pine woods, and for its crystal blue sea it has acquired a
reputation as a wonderful bathing resort.
70.1 Get in
Theres a ferry from Split which takes approx 50 min. In
July and August there are 14 departures per day in each
direction, while in winter there are fewer.
Speed taxi boat service 0-24h +385 98 702 250.
Adriatic-Express
70.2 Get around
The city itself is very compact and can be explored en-
tirely on foot.
70.3 See
70.4 Do
Bathe in the beautiful sea!
70.5 Buy
Supetar has many souvenir shops, a large Lidl supermar-
ket and several smaller general stores.
70.6 Eat
Restaurant Punta, Punta 1, +385 21 631 507
209
Restaurant Jastog, Bana Josipa Jelacica 7, +385
21 631 486
Restaurant Vrilo, Hrv.velikana bb
Tavern Vinotoka, Ignjata Joba 6, +385 21 630 969
Tavern Lukin, Porat 32, +385 21 630 683
Bistro Palute, Porat 4, +385 21 631 730
Pizzeria Roso, Put Vela luke bb, +385 21 630 352
Pizzeria Mario, Porat bb, +385 21 631 155
Cheapest snack: burek from one of the bakeries.
70.7 Drink
Cae-bar Barbara, Porat 17, +385 98 225 321
Cae-bar Ben Quick, Vlacica 19, +385 21 630
541
Cae-bar Mondo, Put Vele Luke bb, +385 98 9520
493
XXL Club, Put Vele Luke bb
Mistiq Disco Club, Put Vele Luke bb, +385 21 631
011
70.8 Sleep
Villa Kuzmanic, +385 21 394449, e-mail:
info@gajeta.info. Apartments 500m from the cen-
tre for 4, 5 and 6 persons, newly decorated, with
SAT-TV, air condition, washing machine and bar-
becue. Two bedrooms, terrace and secured parking
place.
Apartment Barhanovic, +385 21 631464.
House is within only 5-10 minutes walking dis-
tance from the town center, shops, restaurants and
beaches. The apartment is located on the ground
oor with 2 double bedrooms, kitchen, dining area,
210 CHAPTER 70. SUPETAR

living area and bathroom providing accommodation

for up to 4 people.

Hostels

Funky Donkey Hostel, Polanda 20, +385 21

630937, e-mail: funkydonkeyhostel@gmail.com.
Check-in: 15.00, check-out: 12.00. Less than 10
minutes away from the main ferry port. Free WiFi,
free Internet access, no lockout, 24 hour access,
backpack sized lockers, terraces, BBQ area, kitchen
facilities, at screen TV with a large collection of
movies, large common room and only 5 minute walk
to Lidl supermarket.

70.9 Connect

70.10 Go next
Chapter 71

Kvarner

Kvarner and Highlands is a region of Croatia including Cres

the seashore and highlands north of Dalmatia and con-
Krk
nects Istria with the rest of Croatia.
Rab
Pag A popular for its beaches destination
71.1 Regions
Loinj
Unije

71.2 Cities
Rijeka - the largest city and port in Kvarner
Opatija - just west of Rijeka, a former playground
of the rich and famous with old, boutique hotels and
concrete beaches
Crikvenica - a small shermans town in the area of
the old roman military station Ad Turres
Baka - town on Krk island
Mali Losinj - town on Losinj island
Senj town on Adriatic coast
Delnice - central town of Gorski kotar (Highlands)
Fuine - tourist town in Gorski kotar (Highlands)

71.3 Other destinations

National parks:

Plitvice National Park

Gulf of Kvarner and islands

The Kvarner (Primorje-Gorski Kotar County) is divided

into two regions - the mainland area (focusing on Rijeka), 71.4 Understand
and the islands located within the Gulf of Kvarner.
71.5 Talk
Gorski Kotar Highlands with Delnice as center of
highlands. Croatian. Italian and German may be understood due to
close proximity to these countries and the high level of
Islands: visitors in summer months.

211
212 CHAPTER 71. KVARNER

71.6 Get in
All forms of transport meet in Rijeka. Trains operate
from Zagreb, Ljubljana, Vienna, Munich and Budapest
daily to Rijeka. There is a large bus terminal to do-
mestic and international destinations such as Dubrovnik,
Split, Trieste, Belgrade and Sarajevo. International ferry
services operate to Bari in Italy via Split, Korcula and
Dubrovnik.
Highways also connect in Rijeka heading North (towards
Slovenia), west (towards Istria) and east (towards Za-
greb).
There is an international airport located on the island of
Krk which operates primarily in the summer months.

71.7 Get around

71.8 See

71.9 Do

71.10 Eat

71.11 Drink

71.12 Stay safe

71.13 Go next
Chapter 72

Mali Losinj

Mali Loinj is a town on the island of Loinj, Croatia.

Despite its name its the biggest town on the island.

72.1 Understand

72.2 Get in

72.3 Get around

72.4 See

72.5 Do

72.6 Eat

72.7 Drink

72.8 Sleep
Youth Hostel Veli Loinj, Kaciol 4, 51551 Veli
Loinj (behind restaurant Mozart in the harbour),
+385 51 236 234. Check-out: 10am. The only
Hostelling International hostel on the island. It is lo-
cated in Veli Loinj, a 10 minutes bus ride from Mali
Loinj (where ferries and catamarans reach the is-
land). Friendly sta. Price includes breakfast. Free
internet.

72.9 Stay safe

72.10 Go next

213
Chapter 73

Rab

Rab (Italian Arbe) is an island and a town of the same

name in Kvarner.

73.1 Understand
Rab is just o the northern coast of Croatia in the Adri-
atic Sea, today in the Primorje-Gorski Kotar county. The
island was the frontier between Liburnia and Dalmatia.
Rab is one of the most popular islands in the north Adria,
with the town as beautiful as Dubrovnik, and green woods
as in NP Mljet. After Opatija, Rab was one of the rst
vacation and wellness oases in the Kvarner archipelago
region, also known as the pioneer of the nudism. Rab of-
fers everything necessary for a great holiday -- friendly
people, good facilities, nice climate and great beaches.

73.2 Get in
By ferry

Rab can be accessed by ferry from Valbiska on island Krk Church of Saint Christopher
and from Stinica near Jablanac on mainland.

73.5 Do
By plane

European Coastal Airlines drive few hydroplane connec-

tions with Rab from Rijeka, Zadar, Split and Mali Loinj.
Schedule.
By Bus
Direct bus line from Rijeka trough Senj is connecting is-
land Rab with mainland.

73.3 Get around

73.4 See
Lopar beach
Old Town, Rab Town, 771064. 3. 0.

214
73.9. GO NEXT 215

73.6 Eat

73.7 Drink

73.8 Stay safe

73.9 Go next
Chapter 74

Rijeka

Rijeka (literally River) is a city in Kvarner Bay, a north-
ern inlet of the Adriatic Sea in Croatia. It is the principal
seaport of the country. It has 128,735 inhabitants (2011)
with the greater city area reaching up to 200,000, and is
Croatia's third largest city.
74.1 Understand
which saved most of the survivors from the Titanic, was
heading from New York to Rijeka, and most of the crew
on the ship was Croatian. Thanks to that, one of life-
belts from the Titanic is preserved in the Rijeka Naval
Museum.
Unfortunately, Rijeka was also the rst fascist state in
the world, before Mussolinis Italy or Hitlers Reich. A
mixture of fascism, anarchism and elements or dadaism
was the basis for the constitution of Reggenza Italiana del
Carnaro (Italian Regency of Kvarner), short lived state
created in 1919, after a coup d'etat of Italian war veter-
ans led by Gabriele D'Annunzio, often called the pioneer
of fascism. To make it more awkward, this unusual state
was the rst international state that recognized Lenins
USSR.
On the bright side, from 1920 to 1924, Rijeka was an
independent neutral state. A status very similar to the
later status of Gdansk provided Rijeka with independence
and neutrality. The ocial language in the Free State of
Rijeka were Croatian, Italian and Hungarian, in order to
provide maximum care for all minorities in the city.

Panorama of Rijeka with river Rjeina

The city of Rijeka is a unique cosmopolitan city with a

very turbulent history, especially during the 20th century.
For instance, Rijeka was ruled by eight dierent countries
between 1918 and 1991, so theoretically, a citizen of Ri-
jeka born in 1917 could have had eight dierent passports
without ever leaving the city limits. Such rapid changes
of events led to a strong local identity for the city.
Rijeka is a major Croatian port, in the very heart of
Kvarner Gulf. Because of its location, Rijeka is a cross-
roads of land and sea routes, connected with the rest of
the world by air, bus, train and ship lines. Despite often Square on the bridge over the river Rjeina
being described as a predominantly industrial and port
city, Rijeka is an interesting city with beautiful architec-
Woodrow Wilson, President of United States, recom-
ture of mostly secession style, a good choice of museumsmended Rijeka in 1919 as a head of the League of Na-
and quality night-life. tions. After Second World War, Rijeka was one of candi-
In the beginning of the 20th century, Rijeka was one of dates for hosting the headquarters of the United Nations.
the main European ports and had weekly passenger ser- The idea was to reintroduce Independent State of Rijeka
vice to and from New York. The famous ship Carpathia, as a special United Nations neutral state.

216
74.2. GET IN
Modern Rijeka is actually made from two original cities
that were separated by river Rjeina. On the west was Fi-
ume or Rijeka and on the east Suak, the rival counterpart
of Rijeka mostly inhabited by Croatians and most of the
19th and early 20th century under Yugoslavian or Croat-
ian administrative rule. Those two cities were merged in
1945. To symbolically connect the city, a wide pedestrian
bridge was built in front of Hotel Kontinental which was
turned into a square. Most of the people are not aware
that there is actually a river under this wide square. It is
popular place for meeting and socializing, especially for
the younger generations.
With coming to Rijeka, you are joining to the list of peo-
ple together with Che Guevara, James Joyce, Franz Liszt,
Dora Maar, Enrico Caruso, Benito Mussolini, Gabriele
D'Annunzio, Josip Jelai, Bobby Fischer, Saddam Hu-
sein, Gamal Abdel Nasser, Johnny Weissmueller, Pope
John Paul II and many others that have been in Rijeka
before.
Rijeka airport terminal
74.2 Get in
74.2.1 By car
Travellers heading from Zagreb (185 km) should take the
A1 to Bosiljevo and then take the A6 to Rijeka. The A6 is
a 4-6 lane motorway over hilly terrain with many tunnels,
bridges and viaducts.
Travellers from Trieste (76 km) should take A7 upon en-
tering Croatia at Pasjak or Rupa border crossing.
Travellers from Split (380 km) can take A1 to uta Lokva
and then proceed via Senj and Crikvenica to Rijeka, or
A1 north to Bosiljevo and then A6 to Rijeka.
74.2.2 By plane
Rijeka airport is situated on the nearby island of Krk,
around 35 km from the Rijeka city center.
217
Air Baltic connects Rijeka with Riga, Copenhagen,
Moscow and Helsinki.
Air Berlin connects Rijeka to Berlin.
Arkia connects Rijeka to Tel Aviv.
Croatia Airlines connects Rijeka to London and
Munich.
Czech Airlines connects Rijeka with Kosice.
Germanwings connects Rijeka with Hamburg,
Bonn/Cologne, Berlin, Stuttgart and Dusseldorf.
Sky Work connects Rijeka with Bern.
Nordic Aviation Group connects Rijeka to Tallinn.
Norwegian connects Rijeka with Oslo.
Ryanair connects Rijeka to Stockholm, London and
Charleroi.
Trade Air connects Rijeka to Split, Dubrovnik,
Osijek and Zagreb.
Bus shuttle from Rijeka Airport to city is operated by
Autotrans. Price for a ride from Rijeka to Airport is 50
kn. See schedule here.
There are regular bus services from Rijeka into Zagreb
Airport for connections there. The Croatia Airlines web-
site has more information.
From Airport Rijeka to city it is possible to come with
ocial Rijeka Airport Taxi Transfer Service. All infor-
mation you can take on the ocial website.
74.2.3 By train
Rijeka has been an important railhead since its early days
as one of the major ports of the Austro-Hungarian Em-
pire, and is connected with direct services to capital of
Croatia, (Zagreb, from where you can take direct trains
to other major cities in Croatia. There are also twice daily
services to Ljubljana in Slovenia, with evening train con-
tinuing to Munich and one train via Zagreb each day to
Budapest. During the summer there is also connection
to Budapest trough Ljubljana. Services to Pula by train
are possible, though as the two cities are not connected in
Croatia by rail (the connection is now in Slovenia), a des-
ignated bus is timed to take you that part of the journey.
There are no direct connection to southern Croatia, but
it is possible to get to Split From Rijeka with changing
the train in Ogulin. Journey is long (around 11 hours) but
since there is possibility for overnight train, it is not bad
option as well. It is possible to travel to Pula by train, with
a bus connection from train station to Lupoglav, from
where you take a train to Pula. Bus is provided by Croa-
tian Railways and you need to buy just one ticket.
218
The Railway station is in Kreimirova Street, at the north-
ern edge of the town area. It is 5 minutes walk from bus
station. Information on rail services is available on the
information counter, or on the telephone +385 60 333-
44-44. You can buy tickets or make reservations at the
station ticket-oce (+385 51 21-33-33). The railway sta-
tion has a luggage lockers open from 9AM to 9PM, ans is
charged 15 kn. There is also a tourism information oce
in the station building, but is open odd hours - although
there is a large map at the front of the station building.
There is also an ATM at the station.
The Croatian Railways website contains good informa-
tion on train times and prices, and there is also some infor-
mation for travel Rijeka-Ljubljana on the Slovenian Rail-
ways site.
74.2.4 By bus
Rijeka is connected by bus with bigger cities in Croatia,
Slovenia, Italy and elsewhere in Europe. The busy bus
terminal is in the city center at the foot of the imposing
Capuchin church, on Trg abica. You can nd good in-
formation on timetable and fares at the Autotrans website
or in their oce (which also sells tickets), at abica 1 or
by telephone +385 (0)60 30-20-10. Tickets purchased
through companys website are 5% cheaper. There is a
left-luggage oce next to the newspaper and cigarette
stand, open from 5:30AM till 10:30PM (the latest of all
the transport modes in Rijeka). Luggage safekeeping is
charged 9 kn. Eurobusways operates a direct Budapest-
Rijeka Bus line.
74.2.5 By ship
As one of the largest ports of the Austro-Hungarian em-
pire, and the largest port in Croatia, ships play an impor-
tant role in the life of Rijeka.
Of best use to travellers from Rijeka is the Jadrolinija
ferry service. The state-owned company operates small
fast vessels to the nearby islands. Until 20133. there was
as well large car-carrying ferries down the Adriatic Coast
to Split and Dubrovnik, but they were canceled. Possible
reintroduction of the line is for summer 2016. The pas- 74.5 See
senger terminal is in the city center, and on the waterfront
just near the Jadrolinija oce building (where one buys The best way to see Rijekas Cultural and historical mon-
tickets on the ground oor) is a left-luggage oce. uments is to follow the tourist path that gathers all of the
74.3 Get around
74.3.1 By foot
Most of Rijeka is accessible on foot, and trac is actually Rijeka mobile application, for smart phones and GPS
banned on Korzo in the heart of the city.
CHAPTER 74. RIJEKA
74.3.2 By public transport
For those that are further away from the city or tired, an
ecient local bus network operates operating in a single-
direction, circular movement around the central city area,
and fanning out in all directions. Buses #2 and #8, to
Trsat, are probably the most useful for tourists, and a good
alternative to the 561 stair climb to the top of the hill.
74.3.3 By Taxi
Rijeka has a cheap and well organized Taxi service, they
will get you anywhere in the city for approximately 10
or less. In the centre of the town there are three taxi ter-
minals, at the Bus station, tel. +385 51 335 138; in the
Matije Gupca Street, tel. +385 51 335 417, at the railway
station, tel. +385 51 332 893 and there is also a taxi van
available.
Taxi Rijeka tel: +385 91 516 5236
Taxi Cammeo tel: +385 51 313 313
Taxi Adria tel. +385 51 301 301
VIP car service tel. +385 91 11 555 60
JAM Transfer. Taxi usually comes within 10 to 15
minutes from the call except in busy summer season
where it depends on how much business they have.
Online booking available.
74.4 Talk
Besides Croatian, Italian is de facto semi-ocial and fea-
tured on many signs in the city. Most natives of Rijeka
understand it well and some speak it uently. Older native
citizens speak their own dialect of Italian language - Fiu-
mani, named after the Italian name for the city - Fiume.
English is widely understood and spoken by younger peo-
ple and hotel/restaurant sta. Some people also know
some German.
most important sights for this town and its history. Most
of them are accessible by foot, as they are mostly located
in or near the city centre, but to see Trsat Castle you will
need to take a short car/bus ride. Other option, the more
adventurous one, is to climb 561 Trsat stairs that lead
from city centre to Trsat. The Trsat Castle is worth the ef-
fort. Also, a helpful travel companion is free AdriaGuide
navigation.
74.5. SEE
Yellow cock on city tower and palace Wohinz on Korzo street
Trsat Castle represents a strategically embossed
gazebo on a hill 138 meters above sea level that dom-
inates Rijeka. As a parochial centre it was men-
tioned for the rst time in 1288. Trsat Castle is
one of the oldest fortications on the Croatian Coast,
where the characteristics of the early medieval town
construction have been preserved. Today Trsat Cas-
tle, beside the souvenir shop and the coee shop, is
enriched with new facilities gallery space where art
exhibitions are held as well as open-air summer con-
certs and theatre performances, fashion shows and
literary evenings.
City Tower, a symbol of Rijeka and a good example
of a typical round tower access-point, which leads
into the fortied town. Today it dominates the cen-
tral part of Korzo and is often used as a meeting
place for local people.
The Our Lady of Trsat Sanctuary is the largest
centre of pilgrimage in western Croatia. It is famous
for its numerous concessions and for the pilgrimages
by numerous believers throughout the year, and es-
pecially on the Assumption of Mary holiday.
No supermarket can replace the charm of the per-
sonal contact with the vendor or the excitement of
the unpredictable purchase at the main City market
Placa. The harmonious compound of two pavil-
ions and a Fish market building where, in the morn-
ing hours, the real Rijeka can be experienced.
Torpedo launching ramp The launching ramp
from 1930s is an item belonging to the closed tor-
pedo production factory. It is proof of the techni-
cal inventive of Rijeka during this period and at the
same time is an important world landmark of indus-
trial heritage.
For other cultural and historical monuments of Ri-
jeka such as The Governors Palace, St. Vitus
Cathedral, Molo Longo, The Old Gateway or
Roman Arch, Capuchin church of Our Lady of
219
Lourdes and many other interesting places visit the
pages of Rijeka Tourist Board.
Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc
Museums, collections and exhibitions Rijeka is a city
with an unusual, turbulent past. The best places to dis-
cover the whole story on Rijeka are its museums, among
its rich collections and exhibitions.
Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croa-
tian Littoral Located in the beautiful Governors
Palace building, it preserves a large part of Rijekas
history and maritime tradition. Besides its continu-
ous ethnographic exhibition, visit our collection of
furniture and portraits of people from Rijekas pub-
lic life.
Natural History Museum. Besides the botanical
garden, the museum is a multimedia centre with an
aquarium containing species from the Adriatic Sea.
Besides sh, sharks and sea rays, the museum also
conserves species of insects, reptiles, birds and am-
phibians. Ideal entertainment for both children and
adults.
Rijeka City Museum The museum includes eleven
collections: ne arts, arts & crafts, numismatics,
valuable objects, medals, arms from the Second
World War and from the Croatian War of Indepen-
dence, a collection of theatre and lm material, phi-
lately, photography, press and technical collections.
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum. The
museum collects works of art by Rijeka artists from
19th century and both Croatian and foreign artists
from 20th and 21st centuries.
Peek & Poke - Museum of old computers. In
this continuous exhibition over 1000 expositions are
exhibited from around the world and from Croatian
computer history. Located in an area of three hun-
dred square meters, in the centre of Rijeka it is the
largest exhibition of its kind in this part of Europe.
220
The St. Vitus Cathedral Sacral Collection The
collection is located in an attractive location, in
a gallery above the internal part and above the
churchs altar, whilst the thesaurus is located in the
atrium of the Cathedrals locale. The sacral Jesuits
heritage collection includes some very rare expo-
nents.
Thesaurus and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsats
Sanctuary. The monastery treasury holds works of
extraordinary esthetic and material value, paintings,
reliquaries, lamps, chalices, ecclesiastical robes,
while the Chapel of Votive Gifts houses gifts dating
from the 19th century up to date.
Memorial Library and the Maurani-Brli-
Rui Collection. The library and Maurani-
Brli-Rui collection are located at Peine, in Ri-
jeka inside the villa of the famous Rijekas family,
Rui.
Permanent Glagolitic Alphabet Exhibition. A
permanent exhibition has been collocated in the Ri-
jeka University Library known as Glagoljica in
which the Glagolitic written and printed heritage has
been presented, especially that of the north Adriatic
area where the rst Croatian (Glagolitic) books were
printed.
74.6 Do
Korzo, main pedestrian street in Rijeka
CHAPTER 74. RIJEKA
Theatres Should you wish to go to the theatre, you
can choose from those suitable for adults or for chil-
dren, go either at the Croatian National theatre or at
one of Rijekas smaller independent theatres. When
it comes to cinema], no-one can dispute taste in
Rijeka you can nd art cinema and multiplex.
For those who like to be active while they travel
and maybe want to shed a bit of sweat here are a
few recommendations:
Kantrida pools. Complex of ve newly fur-
nished pools, located by the sea with an amaz-
ing view over the nearby islands and Istria.
If you miss the adrenaline, some ten kilome-
ters from Rijeka is an auto-moto track Grob-
nik where you can try your riding skills or
watch how the professionals do it.
Diving around the coast of Rijeka. The
Adriatic has one of the most indented coasts
in Europe and its northern part is especially at-
tractive for divers who like to dive on the un-
derwater clis. The area oers various div-
ing conditions both for beginners and for ad-
vanced divers. Besides the extremely clear
sea and wealth of underwater life, underwater
clis with gorgonian corals and caves can be
found here as well as ship wrecks.
For nature lovers, the ones that like to walk, watch
the stars or just lie on the beach, there are many
places to indulge in such activities:
Astronomical Centre Rijeka. Learn about
the stars in this unique astronomy centre both
in Croatia and abroad. Besides sky objects,
from Sveti Kri hill, where it is located, a beau-
tiful view extends over the Rijeka Bay and
mountain hinterland.
Rijekas beaches. Rijeka has the beach for
everyones taste and thanks to the Mediter-
ranean climate, the bathing season begins in
spring and lasts until late autumn. With re-
gard to the city location, Rijekas beaches are
located to the far east and to the far western
parts of the city, and you can choose your fa-
vorite large and noisy or small and secluded,
pebbly, concrete, rocky, hidden... City buses
drive to all beaches and there is free car park-
ing close to all of them.
Parks and promenades. Nature lovers and
more active visitors can discover the city in a
dierent way by researching Rijekas prom-
enades by the sea, urban or forest areas, and for
those less active, parks are the best option for
taking a break during a walk around Rijeka.
74.10. SLEEP
74.7 Buy
Rijekas main market Placa No supermarket can
replace the charm of the personal contact with the
vendor or the excitement of the unpredictable pur-
chase at the main Rijeka market Placa. The har-
monious compound of two pavilions and a Fish mar-
ket building where, in the morning hours, the real
Rijeka can be experienced.
Shopping in the city centre most shops are open
from 8am until 8pm, Saturdays and Sundays usually
until 1pm. There are several 24/7 stores, and if you
need cigarettes or newspapers after 8pm they can be
bought at the kiosk that works all night, at the main
bus station, abica. You can purchase all that you
need in one of the larger commercial centers in Ri-
jeka, the biggest one is Tower Center Rijeka, while
Zapadni Trgovaki Centar is the newest.
Souvenir shops authentic souvenirs can be bought
at the Tourist Information Centre, two Rijekas gal-
leries that have received the Authentic from Ri-
jeka and Special quality labels Mala galerija
Bruketa and Galerija Art, Zeleno i plavo (Green and
Blue) autochthonous products shop, La Mamma
Delicije on Trsat, and Bazilisk Souvenir Shop lo-
cated in the very centre of Trsat Castle. Rijeka also
has an online souvenir web shop.
74.8 Eat
Restaurants. There are numerous restaurants of-
fering domestic and international food. Try some of
their local sh specialties and also meat and vegetar-
ian dishes as well as exotic specialties. If you didnt
walk into one of the more exclusive restraints in Ri-
jeka, such as Zlatna koljka, Kamov or Municipium, 74.10.1 Budget
you will nd the prices to be mostly moderate.
Taverns. Experience the relaxed atmosphere of Ri-
jekas taverns which in a typical local environment
will oer you their specialties at moderate prices.
Pizzerias and fast food - there are also many fast-
food restaurants, some of them open 24 hours, such
as abica on the main bus station abica and Food
City on the Korzo promenade.
74.9 Drink
Wherever you go in Rijeka, you will nd a place to drink
and relax. There are hundreds of bars and cafes across the
city. There are three ships docked in the harbor (city cen-
ter) with bars, casino, and a night club Arca Fiumana,
Marina club and Club Nina2.
221
Club Palach One of the oldest clubs in Rijeka, with
3 bars, 4 oors, one small free cinema room, gallery
for young artists and comic book store, its also one
of the most interesting cafs/clubs in Rijeka.
Stereo dvorana The centre of Rijekas urban cul-
ture. The program includes and bonds urban life and
multiculturalism with maybe the best conditions in
Croatia for concerts and events.
Caf bar Karolina a coee bar located by the sea
with a large terrace and a view of the boats in the
Port of Rijeka. In the evening hours coee drinking
is replaced by music and dancing.
Cukarikafe bar works with the same intensity
during the day and during the evening. It is special
for its creative furnishings, relaxing music and at-
mosphere which also moves on two terraces during
the warmer weather.
Pepe Rosso Bar is a tavern, but not a totally con-
ventional one with tango and salsa nights, a variety
of promotions from wine to books, exhibitions and
performances, entertainment with DJs or live music.
Caf bar Nad urom is located on the last oor of
the Korzo shopping centre, with a view over Rijekas
rooftops and the Korzo, during the day oers re-
freshments and relaxation after shopping and during
the weekend there is live music.
complete list of coee shops and clubs. The in
Rijeka can be found on Rijeka Tourist Board web
page.
74.10 Sleep
Rijeka Youth Hostel. Is located around a hundred
meters from the sea, in one of the most beautiful
locations of the city, at Peine, just 5 minutes by
bus from the city centre (it will take you 15 minutes
on foot).
Lounge Hostel Carnevale. A modernly furnished
hostel located in Jadranski Square, in the centre of
the city of Rijeka, the very heart of the pedestrian
zone on the Korzo, the citys main promenade.
Hostel Aston Located at Rijekas bus station itself
and is only one minutes walk away from the main
Korzo promenade. All rooms have a view over the
Capuchin Church and close by are all important fa-
cilities and a large number of night clubs.
Hostel Ana. Can be found in the very heart of Ri-
jeka, on the waterfront in the port.
222 CHAPTER 74. RIJEKA

Kantrida hostelery is located 5 kilometers from
the centre of Rijeka, on the main road leading to
Opatija. It belongs to the semi-opened category
type. It is mainly used by the employees and sub-
contractors of the 3. Maj shipyard and vacant rooms
are also oered to passers-by.
Campsite Preluk. Is situated in a small pine and
laurel forest next to the sea and a pebbly beach. It
is in Preluk, serviced by bus no. 32 which goes to
Opatija and is 2 km. from the centre of Opatija. The
capacity of the camp is for 500 people.
74.10.2 Mid-range
Grand Hotel Bonavia. The 125 old and completely
refurbished 4-star hotel located in the very heart of
Rijeka. First class accommodation consists of 114
air-conditioned rooms, six suites and a presidential
suite and has its own car park and garage.
Best Western Hotel Jadran. Is a four-star estab-
lishment located by the sea. It was reopened in De-
cember 2005 after thorough reconstruction. It has
66 single and double bedrooms. Every room is air-
conditioned, and has a satellite TV and radio, direct
telephone line, Internet connection, safe and mini-
bar.
Hotel Continental. A three star hotel built in 1888
with 37 double bedrooms, 1 single bedroom and 4
hotel suits on two oors. All rooms are equipped
with a TV and a direct telephone line, while the ac-
cess to the Internet is possible via modem, using the
telephone connection port in the room. A complete
warm breakfast in included in the price of approxi-
mately 400 HRK (57) per night for a single.
Hotel Neboder. Renovated in 2007, this 14-story
hotel is part of the complex of the Croatian Cultural
Centre. The best part about the hotel is the amazing
view of the eastern part of the Istrian peninsula and
Uka, Opatija, Rijeka, the small towns of Kostrena
and Kraljevica and the island of Krk.
Korula, and Bari in Italy. Since there are rumors
to reintroduce this line in 2016, keep in mind this
wonderful option for trans-Croatian coastline jour-
ney. Journey time was up to twenty hours, so getting
a cabin is highly recommended. On the boat, the
restaurant serves up some decent food at surprisingly
reasonable prices, but bear in mind that the 23% tax
is not included on the menu. There is nothing in
the way of entertainment, so bring some entertain-
ing company or a good book.
Islands of Rab, Pag, Losinj, Cres, Susak, Unije
and Ilovik also can be reached by daily catamarans,
which leave Rijeka at afternoon. One-way prices for
adults are up to 60 kn, depending on destination.
Buses are available to:
Krk (50 kn)
Ljubljana, Slovenia (120 kn)
Pula (92 kn)
Trieste, Italy (60 kn)
Zagreb (from 45 kn up to 130 kn)
Zadar (180 kn)
other Croatian and international destinations.
Trains are available to:
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Vienna, Austria
Zagreb (103 kn).

74.11 Go next
Opatija, once the secluded seaside resort of the rich
and famous, is just a short 20-minute bus ride along
the coast from Rijeka. Bus #32 departs frequently.
It is a great place to go swimming. There are many
ne restaurants and hotels (both of which seem to be
lacking in Rijeka). Try to get a table at Le Mandrac
in Volosko harbour, it is one of the nest restaurants
in Croatia.

Until 2014, there was possibility to travel by

Jadrolinija Ferry to Dubrovnik, Split, Stari Grad,
Chapter 75

Senj

Senj is a town with a population of around 8,000 on the
Adriatic coast of Kvarner region of Croatia.
75.1 Understand
book ahead or arrive early to take the shady places.
The sea is suitable for swimming and shing. There
is a diving station which oers scuba-diving courses
and kayak rental. Small bar with wireless internet
(5 EUR) is located in the camp. Price: 2 person + 1
tent + 1 car: appr. 120Kn

75.2 Get in
75.10 Connect
75.3 Get around
75.11 Go next
75.4 See Plitvice National Park is about 100 km away, that is
about 2 hours of driving.
75.5 Do

75.6 Buy

75.7 Eat

75.8 Drink

75.9 Sleep

75.9.1 Camping
Camp Skver is located in the centre of Senj, right
next to the coast. Since its a coastal location, only
non-shady places are available. It comprises a tradi-
tional tavern, decorated in the old style of the littoral
region, oering national sh specialities. There is a
little harbour for small boats and powerboats besides
the camp. Price: 2 person + 1 tent + 1 car: appr.
120Kn

Camp Uja. Is positioned 4 kilometers south of

Senj on the Adriatic Highway. It is located in a cove
with a beach surrounded by beautiful greenery for
tents, caravan houses, vans, campers and cars. The
camp is rather small, holds 45 camping positions, so

223
Chapter 76

Cres

Cres is a Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea. 76.4 Get in

Cres can be reached by Jadrolinijas car ferry from the
island of Krk (Valbiska-Merag route) or from the Istrian
76.1 Towns peninsula (Brestova-Porozina route).
For the sake of orientation, here are some rough distances
From north to south: for those who prefer coming by car:
Braislava - 520 km, Budapest - 530 km, Ljubljana - 165
Beli km, Milano - 520 km, Munich - 560 km, Prague - 860
km, Vienna - 555 km, Zagreb - 185 km
Cres Losinj island, which is road-connected to Cres island at
Osor town, has an airport.
Lubenice

Osor 76.5 Get around

The island is really hilly which means the roads are curvy
and sometimes as narrow as one path. If driving, be pre-
76.2 Understand pared for slow trac and careful maneuvers on the ser-
pentines.
The island of Cres is the biggest island in the Adriatic and
A massive work eort is taking place on the main road, it
is located in the northern part of the Gulf of Kvarner. Itsis being widened and is being brought further away from
southern part is connected to the island of Loinj by a the clis, the road is also cutting out dangerous turns and
trestle bridge. other threats to drivers. It is also keeping trucks and cars
Cres is a hilly island, 66 km long and ranging in width away from Lake Vrana, to keep it clean.
from 2 to 12 km. The islands coastline, 248 km long, is
indented; its western and southern parts have a plenty of
bays and pebbly beaches while the northern and eastern 76.6 See
parts are characterized by steep and rough rocks.
Lambs, grion vulture.
The fresh water lake of Vrana deserves attention as an
unusual natural phenomenon. It is one of the deepest
fresh water lakes in Eastern Europe, going down 76 me- Beli
ters at its deepest point (below sea-level!). It supplies
drinking water for the populations of Cres and Loinj is-
lands. Therefore, it is very highly guarded and illegal to 76.7 Do
swim and sh in.
Watersports.

Scuba diving.
76.3 Talk
Hiking - there are designated hiking routes starting
Croatian from Eko-centar in Beli.

224
76.12. GO NEXT 225

Cycling - Cres is renowned for the demanding ups-

and-downs.

76.8 Eat
Seafood, lamb, olive oil, cherries.

76.9 Drink

76.10 Sleep
Apartments Erdelja, Melin II 31, Cres, HR 51557,
+385-51-571328. The apartment house Apart-
mani Erdelja is located next to a pine grove on the
beach and is a ten-minute walk from the old centre
of Cres. You can enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of
the cosy house, spend time on the beautiful terraces
or have a barbecue in the garden. Between 14 and
27 per person per night, depending on the season.

76.11 Stay safe

76.12 Go next
Chapter 77
Beli
Beli is a village in Cres island.
77.1 Understand
Beli is one of the oldest settlements on Cres which used
to play a prominent role in the past. A settlement organ-
ised like an acropolis, Beli is situated on a 130m high hill
above the north-eastern coast of the island, on the site of
a prehistoric hill-fort. Today it is a closely-built village
with narrow stone-clad streets.
77.2 Get in
From the main road of Cres island there is a 7 km long
narrow curvy road leading to Beli, sometimes as narrow
as one path. If driving, be prepared for slow trac and
careful maneuvers on the serpentines.
Excursion boats arrive at the port of Beli.
77.3 Get around
The port of Beli, the beach and the camping is located at
the bottom of the hill of Beli. It can be reached with a few
minutes drive (good brakes are essential for this road!) or
1015 minutes walk.
77.4 See
The village has a wonderful setting on the top of the hill.
Narrow streets, small houses give it a real Mediterranean
feel.
77.5 Do
Watersports.
Scubadiving. http://www.diving-beli.com/
226
Eko Centar Caput Insulae works the integral protection
of Eurasian Grion Vultures, organizes exhibitions and
organizes eco-tourism programmes. They oer seven
hiking routes around Beli.
77.6 Buy
77.7 Eat
There are two restaurants in Beli
Restaurant Tramontana is located on top of the
hill, in the Pansion.
Restaurant Beli. Is located at the corner where
the road starts down to the beach. It oers domestic
food.
77.8 Drink
The buet at the beach oers drinks, sandwiches and ice-
cream until late.
77.9 Sleep
Many rooms and apartments are available for rent: more
in the village on the hill-top and a few also next to the
beach.
Pansion Tramontana http://www.beli-tramontana.
com/ It has a restaurant.
Guest house http://www.cres-beli.com/
77.9.1 Camping Brajdi
One-star but cozy camping, small in size so ideal for fam-
ilies.Located right next to the beach. Very basic shop, and
a buet nearby.
77.11. GO NEXT 227

77.10 Connect

77.10.1 Post
Beli has a Post Oce opening Mon-Fri 9-12AM. Stamps,
phonecards etc.

77.11 Go next
Chapter 78

Krk

Krk is a Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea. is a petrochemical plant and natural gas storages, near the
city of Omialj, while the rest of the island is highly ori-
ented on tourism. Strict environmental measures and a
78.1 Cities hidden location make industry on the island almost invis-
ible to visitors. And besides, Krk has very clean sea and
air.
Omialj
Krk has many dierent landscapes. The north-east part
Njivice of the island is almost bare because of the strong wind
Malinska called bura, while the western part abounds with greenery
and gentle bays. Inland, rocky hills alternate with fertile
Town Krk elds. This sort of relief favorably provides for the cul-
tivation of grapes and the production of the well-known
Punat wine Vrbnika lahtina.
Baka If you can't visit the island Krk during the summer, come
in spring or autumn. If the weather is nice, you can have
Vrbnik a swim in the sea in June, September and October. There
are some brave souls who swim from April to November.
Dobrinj
Beside swimming, spring and autumn attracts many visi-
ilo tors interested in outdoor activities, since there are beauti-
ful trekking and cycling paths all around the island, with
Klimno some stunning views of surrounding islands and moun-
tains.
iii

Soline

Porat 78.3 Talk

Vrh Croatian is ocial, but many local people also speak Ital-
Glavotok ian, English and German.

Vantaii
78.2 Understand
The golden island, as the island of Krk has been called
since ancient times, is the nearest island to western Eu-
rope. Its not considered an island so much anymore be-
cause it has been connected with the mainland since 1980
by a 1400m-long bridge made of reinforced concrete.
Krk has approximately 16,500 year round inhabitants in
seventy dierent settlements.
Krk is one of rare examples of successful integration of
industry with tourism. On the northern part of the island
78.4 Get in
You can reach Krk by land, sea and by air because there
is also an airport (Rijeka airport) which can handle large
and small planes. The island doesn't have a railway. The
nearest railway station is in Rijeka, only 30 km from Krk.
There are daily trains to and from Slovenia with connec-
tions to Austria, Germany and Hungary. Rijeka also has
daily coach lines which connects all European points such
as Munich, Zrich, Trieste, etc. Island Krk has well-
indented coast which attracts many sailors, due to many
safe bays of the island accessible in your own boat. You
can leave your boat during the winter in Marina Punat

228
78.8. EAT 229

or in other marinas oering dry storage. For the sake of 78.8 Eat
orientation, here are some rough distances for those who
prefer coming by car: Cheese, domestic prosciutto (prut), seafood, barbecued
Mnchen ~ 600 km, Wien ~ 500 km, Budapest ~ 600 km, lamb
Praha ~ 800 km, Bratislava ~ 600 km, Trieste ~ 100 km,
Milano ~ 550 km, Ljubljana ~ 150 km, Zagreb ~ 200 km
78.9 Drink
78.5 Get around Domestic vine Vrbnika lahtina

78.5.1 By bus - great dining in Malinska

There is a bus public transport mostly operated by

Autotrans. Connections are more frequent on western 78.10 Stay safe
bound cities on the island: Omialj, Malinska, Njivice
and Town Krk. The best way to get around is by car. Krk
Krk is very safe place. Besides occasional pick-
is a diverse island and it is worth exploring. It is possible
pocketing, crimes are almost non-existent on the island.
to hire a car, kayak, a scooter or a bicycle on the island.
If you go inland, be aware of potentially poisonous snakes
like viper. Higher boots are advisable.
78.5.2 Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is very easy on island Krk, since most of the 78.11 Go next
people on the island are hitchhiker friendly because of
expensive bus ticket and bad connections within the cities.
Just standing on the main road which is going trough the
island with your thumb up probably will get you ride in
no time.
More information on Hitchwiki.

78.6 See
In the woods, lovers of nature and hunting can come
across the fox, roe-buck, wild cat and marten while
there are also some birds like the snipe, wild duck,
grion vulture and several other types.

On the island Krk there are several dozen marked

tourist paths which lead through the woods and by
the sea shore. There are printed guides available at
any tourist oce. The underwater world around the
island of Krk is very interesting, and there are sev-
eral local and international diving clubs. You can
get a diving licence at the local harbor masters of-
ce. You need to present your passport, your diving
qualication and pay a fee. To ll bottles you need
to contact one of the diving clubs.

78.7 Do
Of all the summer recreation sports, the most in-
teresting ones are watersports. Those particularly
attractive are kite-surng, paragliding, waterskiing
and jet skis.
Chapter 79

Baka

Baka is situated in the valley of the same name at the

very southeast of the island of Krk in Croatia. The bet
known feature of the area is its 1800 meters long peb-
ble beach, the longest, and the largest one on part of the
Adriatic sea. Of historical and cultural monuments we
can mention the church of St. Lucija eith the Baanska
ploa.

79.1 Get in
From the Krk Bridge follow the signposts for Krk town
and then for Baska, which is around 45 km from the
bridge. If you are driving be careful when passing Ob-
zova, the highest part of the Krk island as the road is very
narrow and has very sharp bends.

79.2 Get around

79.3 See

79.4 Do

79.5 Buy

79.6 Eat

79.7 Drink

79.8 Sleep

79.9 Go next

230
Chapter 80

Malinska

80.2.2 By bus

Autotrans, Rijeka based bus company runs sixteen buses

daily from Rijeka to Malinska for 50 kn one way (76 kn
return). With same buses Malinska is connected with
other destionations on island Krk as well as Mali Loinj
and Cres.

80.2.3 On foot

Beautiful seaside path from Njivice to Malinska called

Rajska cesta is great way to come to Malinska simply by
foot. It is one of the most popular walking path on whole
Adria Hotel in Port of Malinska. island Krk. Walk from Njivice to Malinska is about 6-7
km long and takes around one and half hour. Take enough
of water with yourself since there are only forest, rocks
Malinska is a little picturesque town on the north-west
and sea on the way.
side of the island of Krk in Croatia. Malinska abounds
in vegetation, coves and beaches which are known by
the crystally clear adriatic sea. Climatic conditions are
ideal; for it is protected from a strong winds, especially 80.3 Get around
in winter. Malinska has mild winters and warm summers
and thats the reason why it has been visited by numerous Malinska doesn't have any public transport, since city is
guests for over a century. small enough that you can get everywhere by foot within
half an hour of walking.
During the summer months it is possible to rent a bike,
scooter or quad bike on Lukobran, place where most of
80.1 Understand the boats are coming. Price for a half/day renting is 70
kn. Full price list .
Malinska was an old shing village and port for wood ex-
portation until the beginning of the 20th century, when it
started to develop into a tourism destination rst, as a
favorite retreat of Viennese nobility and later, as a . The
80.4 See
name Malinska has its origins in the 15th century, and it
is related to the water-mill that was built in the village and 80.5 Do
was important for the whole island of Krk.

80.6 Buy
80.2 Get in
80.7 Eat
80.2.1 By car
80.8 Drink
Over the bridge from Mainland (toll fee).

231
232 CHAPTER 80. MALINSKA

80.9 Sleep
Apartments Novakovi, Nikole Tesle 20 (Malin-
ska), +385 51 859 637.
Apartments Ravli, Branka Fuia 30 A (Malin-
ska), +385 51 859 897.

80.10 Go next
Chapter 81

Njivice

Njivice is a town in Croatia. It was once a small sher- 81.5 Buy

mens village and is now a famous tourist centre today.
They have a long tradition of private accommodation.
The vegetation extends to the very sea and all the coast 81.6 Eat
is one the large beach.
81.7 Drink
81.1 Get in
81.8 Sleep
81.1.1 By car
Apartmani Kalini, Gromaine 24, 51512 Njivice,
Over the bridge from the Mainland (toll fee). Croatia + 385 51 847 147

1 Anna Tours d.o.o. (Croatia Dream Holidays),

Primorska cesta b.b., +385 51846165, e-mail:
81.1.2 By bus info@annatours.hr. Check-in: 14:00, check-out:
10:00. Holiday rentals in Croatia. . (updated Dec
Autotrans, a Rijeka-based bus company, runs fourteen 2016)
buses daily from Rijeka to Njivice for 46 kn one way (82
kn return but if you buy return ticket to Malinska, the
price is 76 kn, because of tari borders). With the same
buses Njivice is connected with other destinations on Krk
81.9 Giong out
Island as well as Mali Loinj and Cres.
Cae bars: Columbo, Dundo

81.1.3 On foot

The beautiful seaside path from Njivice to Malinska

called Rajska cesta is a great way to come to Malin-
ska on foot. It is one of the most popular walking paths
on Krk. The walk from Njivice to Malinska is about 6-
7 km long and takes around one and half hours. Take
enough water with yourself since you will pass nothing
but forests, rocks and sea on the way.

81.2 Get around

81.3 See

81.4 Do
Swimming, sunbathing, drinking in the evening

233
Chapter 82

Punat

82.5 Buy

82.6 Eat
Punat has a range of restaurants for every taste. It is espe-
cially worth going to one of the sh restaurants, however
a special tip is to eat in a konoba - a traditional rustic
taverna usually featuring an open-hearth replace. Apart
from sh, it is recommended to try the island delicacy -
urlice. A type of home-made pasta prepared with beef
goulash. A good konoba in Punat is Konoba Sidro along
View of Punat and the Island of Koljun
the Punat promenade.

Punat lies on the eastern coast of the bay of Punat on

the island of Krk in Croatia. It is well protected against 82.7 Drink
storm, as well as the whole bay of Punat. In the bay of
Punat there is a well known marina. In the middle of the There are three popular places to go out, each with dif-
bay of Punat there is a little island called Koljun, famous ferent kind of music.
for a Franciscan monastery and ethnographic and sacral
museum collections. In the port, there is a small cafe Piccolo which
has recently been renovated and hosts evenings with
bands such as Boduli that play mostly Croatian pop-
ular songs, Dalmatian romantic tunes or traditional
songs from continental Croatia that make you want
82.1 Get in to dance. They are multitalented musicians that sing
in harmony at the same time playing on traditional
Croatian instruments.
82.2 Get around
Onix is a bar on the coast on the way to the beach
that has a proper club-feel in the summer and hosts
82.3 See bigger concerts,ranging from Croatian pop music to
DJ events to turbo folk.
Cinema, a cafe in the centre of town hosting mostly
82.4 Do DJ sets with a bit more hard-core music.

Punat has a long tradition of shing and this is immedi-

ately obvious as one visits the port of Punat in the sum- 82.8 Sleep
mer, bustling with boats of dierent shapes and sizes.
Fishing is no longer reserved just for the locals, tourists
may join on one of the shing trips and also enjoy a de-
82.9 Go next
licious dinner made on board from the fresh catch. The
owners of the boats Zlatopruica and Lenica oer this
unique experience.

234
Chapter 83

Town Krk

The Town Krk is the administrative and political centre 83.7 Drink
of the island of Krk in Croatia. Old town is inside the
town walls built in Roman times and in the middle ages. Bacchus Wine Restaurant in the old town: All sorts of
dierent wines plus excellent food, the best and cheapest
food you can nd in the old town. Enter Soto Boterije
83.1 Get in through a small gate in the city wall behind the tower to
enjoy cheap drinks and sitting on the rocks of the coast.
The bridge allows buses to travel from many points Casa del Padrone on the main quay promenade: Wide
around Croatia (including daily buses from/to Zagreb and selection of cocktails and coees on the terrace right at
Rijeka) to access the town. the seafront, protruding out of the quay promenade al-
Otherwise you can y into Rijeka Airport nearby, or just most like a boat. Also oers gorgeous cakes and ice-
drive across the bridge. cream. Beautiful settings with plush cushioned chairs.

There is a bus service from Rijeka to Krk town.[[]]

83.8 Sleep
83.2 Get around Theres a youth hostel in KRK . It is pretty run down
though and you cannot lock the toilet and shower doors!
By foot! All within walking distance, and gives you time The location is excellent though and you won't get a
to explore everything. cheaper bed. One night in a 3-4 bedroom dorm is around
117 plus tax and a registration fee so it sets you back
about 150 Kuna. The place used to be for over 55 people,
83.3 See the owner has had registered it for 24 guests only so you
currently will nd half of the rooms locked and taped up
by the tax oce.
The town Krk has numerous historical and cultural mon-
uments
Aurea International (Aurea Krk), Vrsanska 26/L,
51500 Krk (On the right hand side as you start to de-
The 3-aisle romanesque cathedral - XII century.
scend into Krk Town Center), +385 51 221-777,
The remnants of the Roman baths - II century. e-mail: aurea@aurea-krk.hr. Locally based agency
oering wide choice of apartment accommodation
Frankopan Castle. with more than 400 apartments on their books. Sta
speaks English, German, Italian and Croatian. Out-
side the main tourist season it is possible to nd ac-
83.4 Do commodation by just turning up at the agency al-
though it is advisable to pre-book in the high season.

83.5 Buy
83.9 Go next
83.6 Eat
Bacchhus Wine Restaurant: Best food and at super low
prices. Located in the old city, just ask your way there.

235
Chapter 84

Vrbnik

Vrbnik is a picturesque town on high cli above the sea.

It is a place of good wine Vrbnika lahtina.

84.1 Get in
From the Krk bridge follow the signs for Baska. After
about 30 Km you will see signposts for Vrbnik.

84.2 Get around

On foot! Vrbnik is hilltop town with small narrow streets
not suitable for cars.

84.3 See

84.4 Do

84.5 Buy
Vrbnika lahtina wine. It is grown on the elds around
Vrbnik and it is one of the best white wines in Croatia.

84.6 Eat

84.7 Drink

84.8 Sleep
Go to a man called Osipic. Everybody knows him in
town. Hes a sherman and rents out apartments to
tourists. Denitely the best place to stay and should not
miss his famous grilled sh.

84.9 Go next

236
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Zagreb Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zagreb?oldid=3179040 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2,
Sertmann, Petertzgerald, Dguillaume, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Elgaard, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en)
Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en)
DorganBot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Valtteri, (WT-en) Panos, (WT-en) Roundtheworld,
(WT-en) Rouge, (WT-en) Cohsoldboy, (WT-en) Quirk, (WT-en) Hscholz, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, (WT-en) Mark
Richards, (WT-en) Patkica, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Ptbennett, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Steppenfox, (WT-en) Euroman, (WT-
en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Bowman20, (WT-en) Userfriendly, (WT-en) Londonpommie, (WT-en) Dciboci, (WT-en) Martin, (WT-en) Shallot,
(WT-en) SpeedyGonsales, (WT-en) Mattw, (WT-en) Loonytoon, (WT-en) Ignoramus, (WT-en) Nokturno, (WT-en) Squirrel, (WT-en)
Joeyz100, (WT-en) Matejuska, (WT-en) Boba, (WT-en) ALEXANDAARON, (WT-en) Hutchence, (WT-en) TajneGria, Thehelpfulbot,
Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Querent, The Anomebot2, Xaneris, LilHelpa, JuliasTravels, Andrewssi2, Traveler100, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones,
CarsracBot, Ex13, Bill-on-the-Hill, Texugo, AbrahamWhistler, WOSlinker, Druzhnik, Rangan Datta Wiki, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot,
PrinceGloria, SteveRBot, Zeljko.lipin, Wrh2Bot, Irn, Flip666, Matroc, Addbot, Gagravarr, Shugal, Uhkabu, Memberx0, Vadp, Shinae
Hyun, Ivi104, Doubleplusje, D.Nino and Anonymous: 238
Istria Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istria?oldid=3170582 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Shaundd,
Vidimian, Pashley, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Celticevergreen, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Ohsimone,
(WT-en) Lacerta, (WT-en) Erl, (WT-en) Silversurf, (WT-en) Nicetta, (WT-en) GhanaGirl, (WT-en) Davx75, (WT-en) Ancorreas, Ym-
blanter, Ikan Kekek, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, Dave.Dunford, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, PrinceGloria, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot,
Bonaca11 and Anonymous: 21
Brijuni Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Brijuni?oldid=2882856 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, (WT-en) Episteme,
(WT-en) Kateromanovich, (WT-en) Ohsimone, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Massimo Tel, CarsracBot, Voll, Traveler100bot,
Addbot, Bonaca11 and Anonymous: 1
Faana Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Fa%C5%BEana?oldid=2882899 Contributors: K7L, Ikan Kekek, JuliasTravels, Trav-
eler100, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Bonaca11 and Anonymous: 1
238 CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK

Motovun Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Motovun?oldid=2294893 Contributors: LtPowers, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, The

Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
Pore Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pore%C4%8D?oldid=3136163 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, Petertzgerald, Ypsilon, Lt-
Powers, Shaundd, Saqib, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Hot Coee, (WT-en) Brixtonian,
(WT-en) Nicetta, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot,
Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 13
Pula Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pula?oldid=3166821 Contributors: Wrh2, Guaka~enwikivoyage, Sertmann, Petertzgerald,
Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-
en) Hot Coee, (WT-en) Simone, (WT-en) Bujatt, (WT-en) RJK, (WT-en) Ertw23, (WT-en) Jriddell, (WT-en) Ohsimone, (WT-en)
Lacerta, (WT-en) Ewiepert, (WT-en) I-am-neuron, (WT-en) Davx75, (WT-en) Innkeeper, Ikan Kekek, Berthold Werner, The Anomebot2,
Marek69, JuliasTravels, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, Handrian, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot,
Addbot, 118.93nzp, Portalko, Bonaca11, D.Nino and Anonymous: 53
Rovinj Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rovinj?oldid=3136807 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Globe-trotter,
Jnich99, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Ertw23, (WT-en) Ohsimone, (WT-en) Erl, (WT-en) Nicetta,
(WT-en) Lumosca, (WT-en) StefanoC, (WT-en) Rovinj, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Sapphire, Trav-
eler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Flip666, Addbot and Anonymous: 19
Umag Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Umag?oldid=2420213 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, LtPowers, (WT-
en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Davx75, (WT-en) Gile, The Anomebot2, JuliasTravels, CarsracBot, Texugo, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 6
Vrsar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vrsar?oldid=2853422 Contributors: Wrh2, Jc8136, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Lumosca,
The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, SamoaBot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 3
Slavonia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Slavonia?oldid=3116464 Contributors: Petertzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-
trotter, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Peymora, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, CarsracBot,
Texugo, ', Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 7
akovo Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C4%90akovo?oldid=3139741 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Peymora,
Koavf, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
Liberland Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Liberland?oldid=3045264 Contributors: Vidimian, Ikan Kekek, Pigsonthewing, An-
drewssi2, Traveler100, Hkjacksonhk, T.seppelt, Kren98, Williamliweb and Anonymous: 2
Osijek Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Osijek?oldid=3135616 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Petertzgerald, Yp-
silon, LtPowers, AlasdairW, Vidimian, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Bknight009, The Anomebot2,
LilHelpa, CarsracBot, Filelakeshoe, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Andrejmlinarevic and Anony-
mous: 33
idski Banovci Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C5%A0idski_Banovci?oldid=3047332 Contributors: Nurg, Traveler100,
WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 3
Slavonski Brod Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Slavonski_Brod?oldid=3137478 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Cacahuate, Ei-
land, (WT-en) Edmontonenthusiast, (WT-en) Smt101, (WT-en) Peymora, The Anomebot2, Filelakeshoe, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and
Anonymous: 4
Vukovar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vukovar?oldid=2959789 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Vidimian,
K7L, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Bknight009, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Sumones bot, Texugo,
WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 12
Dalmatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dalmatia?oldid=3112615 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpa-
tokal, Petertzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Cacahuate, Xltel, Elgaard, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite,
(WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Ilkirk, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Primecoordinator, (WT-en)
Airin, (WT-en) Pz-engl, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Planik, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Matulini, (WT-en) Orebic,
(WT-en) Vjuresko, (WT-en) Leor, (WT-en) Andro251, Ikan Kekek, NJR ZA, BAICAN XXX, Primecoordinator, Andyrom75, Texugo,
Voll, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, YiFeiBot, Jay10split and Anonymous: 51
Krka National Park Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krka_National_Park?oldid=3065523 Contributors: Ypsilon, Ikan Kekek,
Traveler100, YaniStroeckx, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Lkcl it, Addbot, Vadp and Anonymous: 1
Plitvice National Park Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Plitvice_Lakes_National_Park?oldid=3063470 Contributors: Sertmann,
Pbsouthwood, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Globe-trotter, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Brendio,
(WT-en) Davidx, (WT-en) Alf1052, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) HappyV, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones,
Texugo, Rangan Datta Wiki, Traveler100bot, Vrkach, SteveRBot, Addbot, Vadp, ArticCynda and Anonymous: 23
Dubrovnik-Neretva Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dubrovnik-Neretva?oldid=3076739 Contributors: Ypsilon, Eiland, Nurg,
Texugo, Traveler100bot and Addbot
Cavtat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cavtat?oldid=2869217 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Petertzgerald, Jc8136, LtPowers,
Nurg, Davidbstanley, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) TravelStoreMaker.com, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Trav-
eler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 10
Dubrovnik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dubrovnik?oldid=3144068 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage,
Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Petertzgerald, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Shaundd,
Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Jonboy, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, Kulmalukko, Nurg, Vmenkov, RegentsPark, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-
en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk,
(WT-en) Andrew C. Bowman, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Titania, (WT-en) Roundthe-
world, (WT-en) Primecoordinator, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Candacedriskell, (WT-en) Jbradfor, (WT-en) WikiTravelMaster, (WT-en)
Chinzh, (WT-en) Pz-engl, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Travelboy, (WT-en) VolkovBot, (WT-en) Aburda, (WT-en) EinarKramer, (WT-en)
Mtaussig, (WT-en) Vkw, (WT-en) Mku, (WT-en) Brixtonian, (WT-en) Salvadors, (WT-en) KerriWare, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Real-
wahl, (WT-en) Mariobonacic, (WT-en) Patrickr, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Maxpietzsch, (WT-en) JMac82,
84.10. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 239

(WT-en) Welmu, (WT-en) Vserbu, (WT-en) Milenium, (WT-en) Kiso, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Matulini, (WT-en) Thewanderer, (WT-
en) Asterix22, (WT-en) Kilekiller, (WT-en) Chigra, (WT-en) Tjasonbrown, (WT-en) Zorro666, (WT-en) Spacekat, (WT-en) Msmodla,
(WT-en) Kasnije, (WT-en) Buttery, (WT-en) Dino, (WT-en) Brettarenz, (WT-en) Ltune, (WT-en) Rrumora, (WT-en) Buttery services,
(WT-en) Miryana, (WT-en) Croatica, (WT-en) Tomo du, (WT-en) Butteryservices, (WT-en) Majaz, (WT-en) Ma0sm, (WT-en) Xdream,
(WT-en) Kaushal, (WT-en) Bryankeith, (WT-en) Danio, (WT-en) Dubrovnikhotels, (WT-en) Pshotts, (WT-en) Superapartments, Ajrad-
datz, Ikan Kekek, Felix505, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumones bot, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Nicholasjf21,
WOSlinker, Andy Farrell, Druzhnik, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Kitoglaw,
Uhkabu, Drat70, IonutBizau, Seagull123, Gerald.monday1 and Anonymous: 539
Klek Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Klek?oldid=2955386 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Inas, Globe-trotter, Nurg, (WT-en)
Gnomee, (WT-en) Tua89481, Traveler100, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Ikiper and Anonymous: 2
Komarna Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Komarna?oldid=3133072 Contributors: Sertmann, LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-
en) Matulini, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 4
Korula Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kor%C4%8Dula?oldid=3133103 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Petertzgerald, Jc8136,
LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-
en) Jakeseems, (WT-en) Johan Jnsson, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) JMac82, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Gorilla
Jones, CarsracBot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Doubleplusje and Anonymous: 31
Lumbarda Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lumbarda?oldid=3134025 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, Nurg, (WT-en)
Tatatabot, (WT-en) Maroje, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 5
Mljet Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mljet?oldid=3153747 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Petertzgerald, LtPowers, Nurg,
ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) SnappyHip, (WT-en) Jakeseems, (WT-en) JMac82, (WT-en) TravelStore-
Maker.com, (WT-en) Ma0sm, (WT-en) Kaheksija, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Trav-
eler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, N1n0, Doubleplusje, Blacksad and Anonymous: 15
Orebi Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Orebi%C4%87?oldid=3135587 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Eiland,
Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Quahadi, (WT-en) Orebic, (WT-en) OrebicTouristBoard,
Mey2008, The Anome, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 17
Ploe Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Plo%C4%8De?oldid=3136108 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Elgaard, Eiland, Nurg,
ClausHansen, (WT-en) Skeleton Jack of Salem, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Brettarenz, The Anome, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Trav-
eler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 7
Ston Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ston?oldid=3137966 Contributors: LtPowers, AlasdairW, Elgaard, Eiland, Nurg, (WT-en)
Orebic, (WT-en) Chene Beck, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot
and Anonymous: 4
Northern Dalmatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Northern_Dalmatia?oldid=3087425 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Nurg,
Texugo, Rangan Datta Wiki, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Ibaman, YiFeiBot, Vadp and Anonymous: 1
Biograd na Moru Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Biograd_na_Moru?oldid=3129049 Contributors: LtPowers, Nurg, (WT-en)
Zergu, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Gorilla Jones, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Smokestack Basilisk, Vadp and Anonymous: 1
Dugi Otok Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dugi_Otok?oldid=3112686 Contributors: Wrh2Bot and Vadp
Kornati National Park Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kornati_National_Park?oldid=3068950 Contributors: Vadp
Murter Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Murter?oldid=3083421 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Xltel, Saqib, Nurg, (WT-en)
Murter, Mey2008, Felix505, Stratoprutser, The Anomebot2, Marek69, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Vadp
and Anonymous: 1
Novalja Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Novalja?oldid=2998399 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Globe-
trotter, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) FatboyShrek,
Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Gregor.bobovnik and Anonymous: 26
Pag (town) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pag_(town)?oldid=2959746 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen,
Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5
Paman Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pa%C5%A1man?oldid=3135857 Contributors: LtPowers, Ravikiran r, Nurg,
ClausHansen, (WT-en) Vjuresko, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Vadp
and Anonymous: 5
Raanac Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ra%C5%BEanac?oldid=2294870 Contributors: LtPowers, Inas, Nurg, (WT-en) Huttite,
(WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Planik, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
Rtina Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rtina?oldid=3135503 Contributors: LtPowers, Inas, Nurg, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en)
Planik, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Gingibash and Anonymous: 1
ibenik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C5%A0ibenik?oldid=3143112 Contributors: Sertmann, Petertzgerald, Ypsilon, Lt-
Powers, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-
en) Hot Coee, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, (WT-en) HappyV, Ikan Kekek, The
Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Andrewssi2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Vadp
and Anonymous: 21
Zadar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zadar?oldid=3177019 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Ypsilon,
LtPowers, Vidimian, Nurg, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Nzpcmad,
(WT-en) Hot Coee, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) 219 106 25 99,
(WT-en) Planik, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Aloyscius, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Majaz, (WT-en) Bdolicki, (WT-en) Brimful45, (WT-
en) Beg, (WT-en) Jandrinov, (WT-en) Nepomuk, Ikan Kekek, Felix505, Sissssou, Stratoprutser, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69,
Traveler100, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Voll, WOSlinker, Rangan Datta Wiki, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Metal-
travel666, Kitoglaw, AntonBryl, WhatamIdoing, Vadp, Rubbish computer, Devsaini138, Gingibash, Gdssd3, ArticCynda and Anonymous:
42
240 CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK

Split-Dalmatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Split-Dalmatia?oldid=3116614 Contributors: Wrh2, Petertzgerald, Ypsilon,

Nurg, Ikan Kekek, Traveler100, Andyrom75, Voll, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 2
Baska Voda Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Baska_Voda?oldid=3041486 Contributors: Wrh2, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, El-
gaard, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Themanwhowouldbeking, (WT-en) Eric Bauman, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) .. , The
Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Curtaintoad, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 5
Bratu Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bratu%C5%A1?oldid=2739640 Contributors: Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-
en) Episteme, (WT-en) Contrela, (WT-en) Ghostgirl, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot,
Matroc and Anonymous: 8
Drvenik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Drvenik?oldid=2402153 Contributors: LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Maj,
(WT-en) Eiland, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5
Hvar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Hvar?oldid=3132251 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peter-
tzgerald, Jc8136, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en)
Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Johan Jnsson, (WT-
en) Mtaussig, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) Riggwelter, (WT-en) Ertw23, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Ewiepert,
(WT-en) Marin, (WT-en) Nimmersatt, (WT-en) Leut, (WT-en) Androjk, (WT-en) 9aplus, (WT-en) Panasonik, (WT-en) Vese, (WT-en)
Er dalmata, (WT-en) Ecijabv, Mey2008, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumones bot, EvanProdromou, Go-
rilla Jones, Andyrom75, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Eosrei, Matroc, Addbot, Vadp,
Hvarpoint and Anonymous: 82
Makarska Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Makarska?oldid=3180130 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Dguillaume, Lt-
Powers, Vidimian, Inas, Globe-trotter, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmese-
days, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Hot Coee, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Contrela, (WT-en)
Bknight009, (WT-en) Iksnigo, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Leor, (WT-en) Majaz, (WT-en) Bsumic, (WT-en) Ijujnovic, Ikan Kekek, Fe-
lix505, .. , The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Gorilla Jones, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc,
Addbot, Ground Zero and Anonymous: 42
Maslinica Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Maslinica?oldid=2348424 Contributors: Wrh2, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Lt-
Powers, Nurg, K7L, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2
Omi Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Omi%C5%A1?oldid=3171267 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, LtPowers,
Pashley, Nurg, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Andrew C. Bowman, (WT-en) HappyV, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones,
CarsracBot, Sapphire, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 23
Promajna Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Promajna?oldid=2960031 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, (WT-en) Iju-
jnovic, Texugo, Inasbot and Traveler100bot
Solta Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Solta?oldid=2628426 Contributors: Wrh2, Jc8136, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Nurg, (WT-en) Lik,
Traveler100, CarsracBot, Seligne, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Tol84lo, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 1
Split Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Split?oldid=3177415 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sert-
mann, Jpatokal, Petertzgerald, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Xltel, Elgaard,
Saqib, Eiland, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Episteme,
(WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Mari-
naK, (WT-en) SnappyHip, (WT-en) Quirk, (WT-en) Mariusm98, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) Local
hero, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Trajektman, (WT-en) Andro251, (WT-en) Kasnije, (WT-en)
Majaz, (WT-en) Vese, (WT-en) Axisfrontier, (WT-en) Goran st, (WT-en) Beg, (WT-en) Nkedzo, (WT-en) Maj100r, (WT-en) Internetst,
(WT-en) Split-rent, (WT-en) Tony-st, (WT-en) Spaleto, (WT-en) Andro, (WT-en) Zblace, (WT-en) Tcorrea, Ikan Kekek, Felix505, Penarc,
Jeanot, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, JuliasTravels, Andrewssi2, Sumones bot, EvanProdromou, Tiimta, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker,
Druzhnik, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, B. oleracea, Addbot, Kitoglaw, Madaiono,
AntonBryl, Vadp, Croatia~enwikivoyage, Kubakar, Doubleplusje, Jay10split, Openwatercroatia and Anonymous: 211
Trogir Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Trogir?oldid=3138709 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, Lt-
Powers, Inas, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-
en) Airin, (WT-en) Mtaussig, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) Johnfkoen, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Maj100r, (WT-en) Grigori,
Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Wrh2Bot, Addbot,
Vadp and Anonymous: 33
Vinisce Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vinisce?oldid=3139074 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Pashley, Nurg, Jnich99, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Ivona123, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Trav-
eler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 4
Vis Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vis?oldid=3041906 Contributors: Stefan2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Nurg, Stefan2bot, (WT-en)
Katharinah, (WT-en) Tonio hr, Ikan Kekek, Jeanot, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot,
Danapit, SteveRBot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 6
Brac Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bra%C4%8D?oldid=3063695 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Petertzgerald, Jc8136, Dguil-
laume, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-
en) Eiland, (WT-en) Ksanto, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Maxpietzsch, (WT-en) Jacey100, (WT-en) Ibolka, This, that and the
other, Ikan Kekek, Penarc, Stratoprutser, The Anomebot2, Denny, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Danapit,
SteveRBot, Lkcl it, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 18
Bol Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bol?oldid=3159169 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Petertzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers,
Inas, Jonboy, Cacahuate, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en)
Marin0110, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Swanseacat, (WT-en) Alen, (WT-en) Kisber, (WT-en) Hhenjak, (WT-en) Ksanto, (WT-
en) Adriatic.express, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Denny, Marek69, Traveler100, Texugo, Nicholasjf21, Trav-
eler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 42
Milna Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Milna?oldid=3134679 Contributors: Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPowers, (WT-en) Maxpiet-
zsch, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 5
84.10. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 241

Supetar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Supetar?oldid=3138041 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Dguillaume,

LtPowers, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Rein N., (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Jacey100, This,
that and the other, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 11
Kvarner Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kvarner?oldid=3113543 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, (WT-
en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Gorilla Jones,
CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Vadp and Anonymous: 10
Mali Losinj Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mali_Lo%C5%A1inj?oldid=3113810 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Nurg,
ClausHansen, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 4
Rab Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rab?oldid=3032677 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, ClausHansen, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-
en) Airin, (WT-en) Dciboci, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Sumones bot, Gorilla Jones, Bokaal, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot,
Addbot, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 7
Rijeka Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rijeka?oldid=3144313 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2,
Jpatokal, Petertzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, RegentsPark, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en)
Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Hot Coee, (WT-en) George Furimidad, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Paul
Richter, (WT-en) Brixtonian, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Powella, (WT-en) Silversurf, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Eleonora Rebecca,
(WT-en) Taxirijeka, (WT-en) RijekaTouristBoard, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumones bot, CarsracBot,
Bill-on-the-Hill, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Nonja Business, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Hobbitschuster, CommonsDelinker,
Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 44
Senj Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Senj?oldid=3137257 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Bujatt, The Anomebot2,
Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
Cres Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cres?oldid=2943940 Contributors: Wrh2, Dguillaume, LtPowers, ClausHansen, (WT-en)
Burmesedays, (WT-en) Bujatt, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, CarsracBot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous:
6
Beli Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Beli?oldid=3128879 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Bujatt, The
Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 1
Krk Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krk?oldid=3133170 Contributors: Wrh2, Petertzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Tsandell,
(WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en) Johnfkoen, (WT-en) Souvenir, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA,
LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumones bot, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Hrbackpacker
and Anonymous: 14
Baka Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ba%C5%A1ka?oldid=2948747 Contributors: Wrh2, Petertzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en)
Z-kalinic, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, A.Bernhard and Anonymous: 2
Malinska Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Malinska?oldid=3134278 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en) Proa,
Ikan Kekek, Vhorvat, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 2
Njivice Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Njivice?oldid=3151096 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Inas, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en)
Proa, Ikan Kekek, LilHelpa, Traveler100, Texugo, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 7
Punat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Punat?oldid=2452062 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Shaundd, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Z-
kalinic, (WT-en) Souvenir, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
Town Krk Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Town_Krk?oldid=2407865 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-
en) Souvenir, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5
Vrbnik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vrbnik?oldid=2408096 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Nigger poop, (WT-en) Z-kalinic,
The Anome, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, EvanProdromou, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2

84.10.2 Images
File:2011_Dubrownik,_Fort_w._Jana.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d9/2011_Dubrownik%2C_
Fort_%C5%9Bw._Jana.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Marcin Konsek
File:2011_Dubrownik,_Paac_Sponza_(01).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1f/2011_Dubrownik%
2C_Pa%C5%82ac_Sponza_%2801%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Marcin Konsek
File:Adria_Hotel_in_Port_of_Malinska.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cb/Adria_Hotel_in_Port_
of_Malinska.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Malinska mul Original artist: ronibaric
File:Ambox_warning_red.svg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Ambox_warning_pn.svg License: Public
domain Contributors: Own work based on File:Circle-style-warning.svg by Carelesshx Original artist: penubag
File:Amphitheatre,_Burnum_legionary_camp,_Dalmatia_(10379905305).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/
commons/3/3e/Amphitheatre%2C_Burnum_legionary_camp%2C_Dalmatia_%2810379905305%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0
Contributors: Amphitheatre, Burnum legionary camp, Dalmatia Original artist: Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany
File:Archeological_museum_Zagreb.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e7/Archeological_museum_
Zagreb.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV
File:BOL_BRAC.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/BOL_BRAC.JPG License: Public domain Con-
tributors: Own work Original artist: Kelovy
File:Bar_Life_in_Sibenik_-_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Bar_Life_in_Sibenik_-_
Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Adam Jones Adam63
File:Baska_Voda-2011.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/dc/Baska_Voda-2011.jpg License: CC BY-SA
3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Leonid Dzhepko - User: (WT-shared) .. at wts wikivoyage
242 CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK

File:Bokar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fb/Bokar.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own

work Original artist: (WT-en) Chigra at English Wikivoyage
File:Bratus_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/Bratus_Croatia.jpg License: Public domain
Contributors: Own work Original artist: (WT-en) Contrela at English Wikivoyage
File:Bundek_20150307_DSC_0108.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/82/Bundek_20150307_DSC_
0108.JPG License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Branko Radovanovi
File:Bus_Zagreb_(1).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ef/Bus_Zagreb_%281%29.jpg License: CC BY-
SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Suradnik13
File:CHURCH_OF_ST._ROCHE,_SPLIT,_CROATIA.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/
CHURCH_OF_ST._ROCHE%2C_SPLIT%2C_CROATIA.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist:
JERRYE AND ROY KLOTZ MD
File:Casco_viejo_de_Dubrovnik,_Croacia,_2014-04-14,_DD_04.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/
b4/Casco_viejo_de_Dubrovnik%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-14%2C_DD_04.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Orig-
inal artist: Diego Delso
File:Cathdrale-Saint-Jacques-Sibenik-2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/Cath%C3%
A9drale-Saint-Jacques-Sibenik-2.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: No machine-readable source provided. Own work
assumed (based on copyright claims). Original artist: No machine-readable author provided. Vyskocil~commonswiki assumed (based on
copyright claims).
File:Cathdrale-Saint-Jacques.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e7/Cath%C3%
A9drale-Saint-Jacques.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ?
File:Church_and_the_Port_of_Milna,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Church_and_
the_Port_of_Milna%2C_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Church and the Port of Milna, Croatia Original artist:
Alex Proimos
File:Church_of_St._Donat_in_Late_Afternoon_Light_-_Zadar_-_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/
commons/4/4a/Church_of_St._Donat_in_Late_Afternoon_Light_-_Zadar_-_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own
work Original artist: Adam Jones Adam63
File:Ciganka_beach_Rab.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5e/Ciganka_beach_Rab.jpg License: CC
BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: originally posted to Flickr as ciganka beach,island of rab (HR) Original artist: Otmar Lichtenwrther
File:City_Hall_sibenik.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/54/City_Hall_sibenik.JPG License: CC-BY-
SA-3.0 Contributors: ibenik, Croatia Original artist: Lacen
File:City_walls_of_Ston0008.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/City_walls_of_Ston0008.jpg License:
Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Anto (<a href='//commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User_talk:Quahadi' title='User
talk:Quahadi'>talk</a>) 13:24, 9 March 2009 (UTC)
File:Croatia_-_Dubrovnik.PNG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d5/Croatia_-_Dubrovnik.PNG License:
Public domain Contributors: own work based on PD map Original artist: edited by M.Minderhoud
File:Croatia_BW_2014-10-08_11-19-37.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Croatia_BW_
2014-10-08_11-19-37.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold Werner
File:Croatia_Fazana_2014-10-11_13-05-40.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Croatia_Fazana_
2014-10-11_13-05-40.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold Werner
File:Croatia_Porec_Euphrasius_Basilika_BW_2014-10-08_10-47-48.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/
commons/b/bf/Croatia_Porec_Euphrasius_Basilika_BW_2014-10-08_10-47-48.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work
Original artist: Berthold Werner
File:Croatia_Pula_Amphitheatre_2014-10-11_11-04-27.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/24/
Croatia_Pula_Amphitheatre_2014-10-11_11-04-27.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold
Werner
File:Croatia_Regions_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Croatia_Regions_map.png License:
CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work based on the UN Map of Croatia and OpenStreetMap Original artist: Burmesedays
File:Croatian_National_Theatre_Zagreb_1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Croatian_National_
Theatre_Zagreb_1.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV
File:DalmatiaLake.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/30/DalmatiaLake.jpg License: CC BY-SA 1.0 Con-
tributors: http://wikitravel.org/en/File:DalmatiaLake.jpg Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - (WT-en) Elgaard at English Wikivoyage
File:Diocletian{}s_Palace_(original_appearance).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/16/Diocletian%
27s_Palace_%28original_appearance%29.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: http://www.civilization.org.uk/decline-and-fall/
diocletian Original artist: Ernest Hbrard (recoloured by DIREKTOR)
File:Diocletians_Palace,_Split_(11908116224).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3f/Diocletians_
Palace%2C_Split_%2811908116224%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Diocletians Palace, Split Original artist: Carole
Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany
File:Dubovac_Castle_in_Karlovac11,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/Dubovac_Castle_
in_Karlovac11%2C_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Bearcro
File:Dubrovnik1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/56/Dubrovnik1.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contrib-
utors: self-taken by Greenweasel in engl. Wiki Original artist: Greenweasel
File:Dubrovnik1bqw.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Dubrovnik1bqw.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0
Contributors: Own work Original artist: Baoqingwang
84.10. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 243

File:DubrovnikBeach.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/DubrovnikBeach.jpg License: GFDL Con-

tributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage
File:DubrovnikStradun2008.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0d/DubrovnikStradun2008.jpg License:
CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Elgaard
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244 CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK

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84.10. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 245

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246 CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK

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84.10. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 247

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(<a href='//commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg' class='image'><img alt='OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg'
src='https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg/20px-OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg'
width='20' height='20' srcset='https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg/
30px-OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg 1.5x, https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg/
40px-OldManonPhotoshop1850.jpg 2x' data-le-width='1052' data-le-height='1052' /></a><a href='//commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/
User:Romanceor' title='User:Romanceor'> </a>Romanceor [parlons-en] ).
248 CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK

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data-le-width='1052' data-le-height='1052' /></a><a href='//commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Romanceor' title='User:Romanceor'>
</a>Romanceor [parlons-en] ).

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