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ETROPOLE,
NORTHUMBERLAND AVENUE
AXD
"Wliiteliall ."Place, Xrafalg:ar Square,
LONDON, ENGLAND,
IS ONE OF THE
LARGEST IN EUROPE,
itains all that Modern Improvements can
lie Comfort and Convenience of Guest
GRAND HOTEL,
PARIS. 12 Boulevard des^Oapucines, PARIS.
CONCERT DIIsrN~ERS
8 francs Wine Included.
At 6.30 o'clock, :
The CAVES DU GRAXn HOTEL (Wine-Cellars). at 12 Boulevard des Capucines. under the
Hotel, constitute one of the largi>Mand most reliable wine trades in Paris. The very l)e>t wines
of noted cmx. and «t verv "moderate rates, are delivered in quantities of from one bottle to
all
casks, in Paris, Europe, and America. The Comiiauy bottle wine at purchasers' residences.
THE LANGHAM HOTEL,
Portland Place, London, W.
The Hotef is built on a gravel soil, and all the water used is from an Artesian
Well on the premises.
N. B. —
The precautions against fire are all that human forethought
can devise. Four experienced firemen are on duty day and night, and
a patent electric fire-alarm enables a visitor or servant to call the fire-
men immediately, as it indicates in all parts of the building simul-
taneously the instant an accident occurs, and where it takes place.
All the corridors and staircases are fire-proof, and there are six exits
from the Hotel.
British and Foreign Railway Tickets may he procured in the Hotel,
and passages hooked and luggage forwarded to all parts
of the Globe-CAYGILL & CO., Agents.
The "Langliam" Special Omnibuses are available for the conveyance of
visitors and their luggage to and from the various Metropolitan Railway Stations,
erature and the finest illustrations with Harper's Young People has won the
information about the latest fashions, approval of parents and the hearts of
methods of household adornment, and their children. Xo pleasanter or surer
all those minor arts that make home at- antidote to sensational juvenile literature
tractive. It weekly spreads before the could be placed in the hands of youthful
eye a tempting feast of stories, poems, readers than this popular journal for
sparkling essays, and art illustrations, boys and girls. Pictures, the work of
a constant variety of beautifully en- the foremost artists and engravers, lav-
graved fashion-plates and pattern-sheets, ishly illustrate its pages; and it is as at-
and by aiding ladies to do their own tractive as fine paper and skilful print-
dressmaking saves many times the cost ing can make it. There is nothing cheap
of its subscription. about it but its price.
HARPER'S HAND-BOOK
FOR
TRAYELLEES IN EUROPE
AND THE EAST:
BEING A GUIDE THROUGH
YOLUIME I.
LONDON -.-Vf. J. ADAMS & SONS, 59 FLEET STREET.-SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, & CO.
Goodbak.— /Jowff, Tiale.
Florence,
Frankfort, Universal Reisk-Buebac— T'lVina, Gkkold & Co.— Berlin, Ksvzv. & Co.
1885.
The Author of "Harper's Hand-books" wishes to inform all Hotel-keepers
that favorable notices of their houses can not be obtained by purchase; that
complaints of dishonesty or inattention, properly substantiated, wiW cause their
houses to be stricken from the list of good establishments.
—
Favors from Travelers. Although the Author of "Harpti's Hand-books" has
made arrangements to keep it as perfect as possible, and purposes devoting his
time to tliat purpose, he would still be under many obligations to Travelers if they
personally note any inaccuracies or omissions, and transmit them to him, at 13
Avenue du liois de Boulogne, Talis.
STACK ANNEX
mis
V, TO
W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE.
PREFACE
TO THE TWENTY. FOUKTil YEAR.
is not compiled from hearsay and books which are out of date, and of no possible
use to the traveler, but prepared by the author every year from his personal expe-
rience up to the moment of going to press, his time in Europe being wholly devoted
to that purpose. The greater portion of these volumes is entirely new, and dis-
tinct from the last year's edition, while the residue has been revised and corrected
up to the present moment.
To travel without a guide-book in any part of Europe is utterly impossible ; a
man without one being like a ship at sea without a compass dragged round — the
country by a courier, and touching only at such points as it is the courier's interest
to touch. You should purchase guide-books or remain at home.
The great objection to foreign guide-books is their number. To make the tour
of Europe (even a short one of a few months), the traveler has formerly been com-
pelled to purchase some twenty-five or thirty volumes if published in the English
language, at a cost of sixty or seventy dollars, and suffer the inconvenience of
carrying some twenty-five pounds of extra baggage, and over one hundred vol-
umes if in the French language, one house alone in Paris publishing one
hundred and twenty volumes. As the majority of American travelers do not re-
main over six months on the Continent, they dislike to be compelled to carry
about a small library, when with the aid of a good Railway Guide and the present
Tolumes all tlieir wants may be supplied.
The intention of the a\ithor of " Harper's Hand-books " is to give a distinct and clear
description of the best manner of visiting the principal cities and leading places of
interest in France, Germany, Austria, Russia, Turkey, Italy, Egypt, Syria, Palestine,
Switzerland, Tyrol, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Spain, Great Britain, and Ireland;
to give the modes and cost of traveling the difterent routes by land and water, and
which lines are to be preferred ; the precautions to be taken to insure comfort and
security ; names and charges of the leading hotels ; the most responsible houses from
viii PREFACE.
which to make purchases ; all the items in reference to the transportation of bag-
gage, and the innumerable number of small charges which tend to swell the ac-
For fall Particulars of Routes, Historical Sketches, Excursions, small Cities, Towns,
Places of Interest, etc., see General Index at the End of this Volume.
THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS TO THE PRINCIPAL
CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN GREAT BRITAIN AND THE CON-
TINENTS OF ASIA, AFRICA, AND EUKOPE 34
92; Giant's Causewav, 98; Routes between Ireland and Great Britain, 100. .S'cof-
Zand, 101-182.— Glas-ow, 109; Perth, 133; Aberdeen, 135; Stirling, 13S; Edinhur<rh,
152. England and Walen, lS.']-290— London, 1S4; Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill,
212; Windsor, 217; Greenwich, 21S Woolwich, 217 = 8 Brighton, Portsmouth, and
; ;
broke and the Welsh Counties, 273-2S0 London to Salisbury, Dartmouth, and ;
ham, 287; London to Epsom '(Derby Races), 287 London to Ramsgate aud"Mar- ;
gate, 2S8.
FRANCE 291
London to Calais and Paris, 294 ; London to Dieppe, Rouen, and Paris, 294 ; Routes
from Paris, 294, 295; Calais, 296; Boulogne, 2'.»G; Diopi)e, 300; Paris, 301-370 ; Ver-
sailles, 377-.3S0 Fontainebieau, 380-382; Rouen, 3S7; Havre, 391 Paris to
; ; Cher-
bourg, 392-397 Paris to Brest, 397-407 Orleans, 402; Nantes, 405; Poitiers, 407;
; ;
Cogjiac, 410; Bordeaux, 412; Pan, 438-440; Limoges and Bourges, 444; Vichy. 449;
Lyons, 454; Dijcm, 4.^8 Burgundy Wines, 458-466 Marseilles, 471 Algeria, 473;
; ; ;
Nice, 474 Epernay, 481 Champagne Wines, 481-489 Paris to Cologne, 496.
; ; ;
BELGIUM 501
Brussels, 505-511; Waterloo, 511; Malines, 512; Maliues to Antwerp, 518 •, Aut-
werp, 513-515 Ghent, 518; Bruges, 520; Ostend, 521.
;
As our nation is emphatically one of travelers, and as the number is yearly in-
creasing, the proportion to other nations is to an extent far beyond the belief of the
casual observer. For instance, the author has seen at one time sitting in the court-
yard of the Grand Hotel, Paris, twenty-nine Americans, five Frenchmen, three
Fnglishmen, and one Russian he has seen at the Mediterranean Hotel, in Jeru-
;
salem, thirteen Americans, one Englishman, two Frenchmen, and three Spaniards
and at the " New" Hotel, at Cairo, over one half of the visitors were Americans ;
and what wonder, when the elements, air, fire, and water, answer to our call, to
transport us from shore to shore in from seven to ten days.
It behooves us to travel with other stores besides our purse and passport. ''A
man must carry knowledge with him if he would bring knowledge home." Ev-
ery body has now an excuse to travel if rich, to enjoy
: if poor, to retrench ;
room, supper, and bed, at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence half-
penny. "Who would embroil their philosophy for it ? For Heaven's sake and your
own, jiay
it
—
pay it, Avith both hands open I"
Wherever you are, it is best to fall into the manners and customs of the place
itmay be inconvenient, but it is less so than running counter to them. Those
who have their own way (the cost is generally more than it is worth) are cei-
tain that every body them this leads them to quarrel with their
is tiying to defeat ;
dinner, dispute their and proceed on their journey with the conviction that
bills,
they are much injured rather than most unreasonable people. Every person pre-
paring to travel should try to make some acquaintance with the language of the
country through which he is about to pass. This is the best preparation for a jour-
ney ; it will prove equal to a doubly-filled purse. He should also become as well
acquainted as possible with the history of the people, reading the best works de-.
scriptive of the country, become familiar with its cuiTcncy, and t/iint in jrancs,
pauls, and piastres instead of dollars and cents. As regards baggage, the author
would say, in opi)osition to most writers, who advise against it, clout crawp your-
selfforwant of baggage ; the few dollars charged for extra luggage will be more
than compensated for by having every thing that you may want and when your, ;
wardrobe has been pulled to pieces by custom-house officers, it will not require
hours to repack it before you can close your trunks.
Be certain to have every thing done in respect to baggage, et cetera, and more
particularly your hotel hill, before the last moment, thereby avoiding the excite-
ment of setting out in a great hurry, with the possibility of forgetting something of
importance. The author has found great advantage, where he intended leaving in
the morning, in liaving his bill the night previous.
Fees^ though often impositions, are the most profitably-spent money during a toin-.
The amount of " solid comfort" often procured tor the vahie of a shilling is amazing.
Avoid, if possible, carrying sealed letters, or executing commissions for friends,
as the chances are it will place contraband goods in your care, which, for yourself
and others, should always be avoided. You would do well also to avoid guides as
much as possible, unless you are with ladies; then it would be advisable to have
them. By wandering about, and trusting to your own observations, you will be-
come much more readily acquainted with places, and your impressions will be
stronger. The best and quickest method of obtaining a correct idea of a place is,
on your arrival, to ascend some eminence, take your map of the city, or a valet de
place you have no map, and get all your bearings, note down the most remark-
if
able places, then drive around them after that, go into the matter in detail. By
;
this method you will leave the city in a week with a better knowledge of it than if
Money.
The safest and most convenient method of carrying money abroad to meet your
expenses is in the form o^ circular letters of credit^ which are issued in New York
;
and as peace of mind is very necessary to the traveler, be certain you obtain such
letters from bankers whose credit stands so high that their names are honored at
Paris and Damascus, at Cairo and Vienna, with the same confidence as in New
York, The houses we recommend to the traveler are the Bank of Montreal,
No. 49 Wall Street, and Messrs. Brown Brothers & Co., No. 59 Wall Street.
Tliese houses issue letters to bankers
all over Europe, Asia, and Afiica.
Passports.
The most disagreeable of all the annoyances of traveling is that of being obliged
to carry passports. Those persons who have traveled much in America, and know
they can go from San Francisco to Portland without any one having the right to
question either their identity or movements, naturally feel galled at being obliged
to tell every official where they are going. Then if, by accident, there should be
any informalitv in the vise, stop where you are until it is rectified See that you I
sentatives abroad charge a like amount in gold for the same. The possession of a
passport is obUgatoiy on the Franco- Spanish frontier, and may, through personal
or international difficulties, or enforcement of Socialist laws, be of advantage at
any time.
To Obtain a Passport.
By addressing E. C. Marshall, U. S. Passport Agent, Room 132, U. S. Court and
P.-O. Building, N.Y., travelers can obtain their passports, properly mounted on linen
xvi INTRODUCTION.
bound in morocco cases, with extra leaves to receive the vis^s when the passport
proper is full, and have their names distinctly lettered in gold on the cover all of ;
which is absolutely necessar}', as the paper on which the passport is printed is liable
to be destroyed by the fi'equent opening.
Accompanying the commission, the following documents will be necessary:
Age
Stature
Forehead (high or low)
Eyes (color)
Nose (large or small)
Mouth (do.)
Chin (round or long)
Hair (color)
Complexion (florid or sallow)
State of )
^^•
County of |
I, , do swear that I was born in ,
State of ^
^^'
County of |
I, , do swear that I am acquainted with the above named
and with the facts above stated by him, and
, that the same are
true to the best of my knowledge and belief.
,s^.^.^^ry~^^s^^
Sworn to before me, this >
'
? Int. Rev. I day of ,188—, S
support, protect, and defend the Constitution and Government of the United States
against all enemies, whether domestic or foreign, and tliat I will bear true faith,
allegiance, and loyalty to the same, any ordinance, resolution, or law of any State,
Convention, or Legirlature to the contrary notwithstanding ; and, farther, that I
do this with a full determination, pledge, and purpose, without any mental reserva-
tion or evasion whatsoev^cr; and, fartlier, that I will well and faithfully perform
all the duties which may be required of me by law ; So help me God.
^'^yy^.^^r.^^.^
Sworn to and subscribed before me,
^
We would now impress two things strongly on the traveler never give your :
passport up when you can help it and always be sure that it is "era re^/e."
I
There is one general rule respecting passports in Europe To leave one place for :
another, you must first be identified by your own consul, and obtain his vise then ;
you can obtain the vise of the representative of the state to which you wish to pro-
ceed you then obtain the police vise, that you are at liberty to leave the city or
;
country. In many places the police vise is not required; and as it depends en-
tirelyupon the political state of the country at the time, it is not necessary here to
state what country or city does or does not require it. Your consul can always
give you the requisite information.
On arriving at New York, we presume the traveler will wish to stop at one of
the best hotels in the city. The Brevoort, situated in Fifth Avenue near Washing-
ton Place, has for many years maintained its reputation for being one of the very
best in the city. It is conducted on the European plan.
The Hodman House is also a first-class establishment, situated on Fifth Avenue
in front of jNIadison Square. It is conducted on the European plan.
The Brunswick Hotel is a fine establishment, situated on Fifth Avenue, and
kept on the European plan.
Gentlemen travelers unaccompanied by ladies will find most elegant apartments
and a capital cuisine at Delmonico^s, corner of Fifth Avenue and Twenty-sixth
Street, one of the most central and elegant positions in the city.
In case travelers are saihng from or arriving at Boston, they will find the Hotel
Brunswick one of the very best in the United States.
INTRODUCTION.
The Passage.
The " White Star Line'*'' of Royal Mail Transatlantic Steamships is composed
of magnificent steamers, all of about the same dimensions, and built in seven water-
tight and fire-proof compartments. The speed attained is unsuipassed in average
by any vessels afloat, that of the "Britannic " (from 1874 to 1879) being of eight days
and eight hours from New York to Queenstown. The cabin accommodation is
situated where the noise and motion are least ; the conveniences for general com-
fort, and the lighting, ventilating, warming, and sanitary arrangements are all of
the most effective description. Offices: New York, R. J. Cortis, 37 Broadway;
Liverpool, Ismay, Imrie, & Co., 10 Water Street; London, Ismay, Imrie, & Co., 34
Leadenhall Street; Boston, C. L. Bartlett & Co., 115 State Street; Philadelphia,
Barritt & Cattell, /.I Merchants' Exchange ;
Queenstown, James Scott & Co. ;
The Liverpool and Great Western Steam-ship Company, or Guion's line of steam-
ers, are ships of the very best chass, fitted up in the most luxurious style, and
commanded by the most experienced seamen. All travelers who have crossed in
them speak in the most enthusiastic terms of their comforts.
Tlie North German Lloyds steam-ship line^ running to Bremen, and stopping at
Southampton and Havre, is a popular mode of communication direct to Germany.
The vessels are large, comfortable, and ably commanded, and the pleasure tourist,
who may be eitlier going to Germany direct, or who desires to spend a few days on
the Isle of Wight or in the south of England, will do well to take passage by this
line instead of going roundabout to Liverpool. The steamer Elbe which made the
passage from Southampton to New York five consecutive times in eight days, is,
The "National" line of steamers, sailing twice weekly from New York to Liver-
pool and London, and vice versa, is composed of some of the largest, most power-
ful, and elegant steamers that cross the Atlantic. The follo^\^ing instructions to
their commanders is a guarantee of their safety :
"The commanders, while using every diligence to secure a speedy voyage, are
prohibited from running any risk whatever that might result in accident to their
ships. They must ever bear in mind that the safety of the ships, and the lives and
property on board, is to be the ruling principle that shall govern them in the navi-
gation of their ships, and no supposed gain in expedition, or saving of time on
the voyage, is to be purchased at the risk of accident. The company desires to
establish and maintain the reputation of the steamers for safety, and expects such
expedition on their voyages as is consistent with safe navigation." Offices, 69 —
Broadway, New York 23 Water Street, Liverpool 7 Rue Scribe, Paris and
; ; ;
commence their excursions in Scotland and work up to London will find it to their
advantage to take these ships, as they sail direct to Glasgow. This company has
also established a regular Mediterranean line, sailing fortnightly from Genoa, Leg-
horn, and Naples, and weekly from Palermo and Messina; also from Spanish ports
direct to New York. The advantage to travelers by these lines is inestimable, as
they can return from their travels direct^ bringing or shipping their works of art
or other purchases with great safety and at low rates. The agents are Henderson
Brothers, No. 7 Bowling Green, New York; Henderson Brothers, 47 Union Street,
Glasgow ; and Roubier & Broomhead, 3 Rue Scribe, Paris.
The Invian, Union, Cunard, and Allan are also good lines.
ATLAlj:
"> r
INTRODUCTION.
France.
Names. Offices. Where stationed Compens'n.
L. r. ^lorton Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen.. Paris $17,500.
J. E. Brulatour Secretary of Legation Paris 2,625.
Henri Vignaud Assistant Sec'y of Legation.. Paris 2,000.
George Walker Consul-General Paris 6,000.
K, MHooper
. Consul
C. Roosevelt Consul Bordeaux 2,500.
Consul La Rochelle
B. F. Peixotto Consul Lvons 2,500.
E. S. Nadal Consul Nantes 1,000.
John B. Glover Consul Havre 3,000.
Th. Wilson Consul Nice 1,500.
Adolph Gouverneur Gill.... Consul Rheims Fees.
Horace A. Taylor Consul Marseilles $2,500.
England.
James Russell Lowell Envoy Extr. and ]\Iin. Plen. .London $17,500.
W. J. Hoppin Secretary of Legation London 2,625.
Heiny White Assistant Sec'y of Legation. .London 2,000.
Adam Badean Consul-General London 6,000.
S. B. Packar.l Consul Liverpool 6,000.
Edward E. Lane Consul Tunstall 2,500.
G. Thompson Consul Sontliampton 1,000.
C. B. Webster Consul Sheffield 2,500.
Albert D. Shaw Consul Manchester 3,000.
Alfred V. Dockery Consul Leeds 2,000.
J. Farrett
'.
Consul Bristol 1,500.
H. Fox Consul Plymouth Fees.
Howard Fox Consul Falmouth Fees.
Robinson Locke Consul Newcastle $1,500.
Evan R. Jones Consul Cardiff 2,000.
.Wilson King Consul Birmingham 2,500.
Scotland.
Bret Harte '..Consul Glasgow $3,000.
W. B. Wells Consul Dundee 2,000.
J. r. Robeson Consul Leith 2,000.
Ireland.
A. B. Wood Consul Belfast $2,500.
E. P. Brooks Consul Cork 2,000.
B. H. Barrows Consul Dublin 2,000.
Arthur Livermore Consul Londonderry Fees.
xxii INTRODUCTION.
Malta.
Names. OflBces. Where stationed. Compens'iL
n. Ruggles Consul Valetta Fees,
Gibraltar.
Austria.
Russia.
German Empire.
A. A, Sargent Envoy Extr, and Min.Plen..Berlin $17,500.
Chapman Coleman Secretary of Legation Berlin 2,625.
Frederick V. S. Crosby Sec'd. Secretary of LegationBevlin 2,000,
M, S. Brewer Consul-General Berlin 4,000,
Alfred E. Lee Consul-General Frankfort 3,000.
George E. Bullock Consul Cologne 2,000.
G. F. Lincoln Consul Aix-la-Chapelle....Fees,
J.M.Wilson Consul Bremen $2,500.
Herman Keifer Consul Stettin 1,000.
Th. Canisius Commercial Agent Geesteraunde Fees,
J. W. Harper Consul Munich $1,500.
G. H. Horstman Consul Nuremberg 2,000.
Max Obermaver Consular Agent Augsburg Fees.
Joseph T. Mason Consul ....Dresden $2,500,
Jas. T. Du Bois Consul Leipsic 2,000,
J. L. Parish Consul Chemnitz 2,000.
J.M, Bayley Consul Hamburg 2,500.
William C, Fox Consul Brunswick Fees,
Charles Einstein Consul Stuttgart $2,500.
Spain.
Italy.
Denmarh.
J. P. "Wickersham Charge d' Affaires Copenhagen $5,000.
H. B. Ryder Consul Copenhagen 1,500.
H. C. Carey Consul Elsinore
Netherlands.
W. L. Davton Minister Resident The Hague $7,500.
W. B. Wells Consul Rotterdam 2,000.
David Eckstein Consul Rotterdam 1,500.
Belgluin.
Portugal.
J. M. Francis Minister Resident Lisbon $7,500.
H. W. Diman Consul Lisbon 2,000.
A. Dockery Consul Oporto
Thomas B. Reid Consul Funchal 1,500.
Roumania.
Fulton Paul Consul-General Bucharest $3,000.
SicitzerJand.
Greece.
De Witt T. Reiily Consul Athens $<2,500.
E. Hancock Consul Patras 1,000.
Egypt.
C.M. Salvago Consular Agent Alexandria $3,000.
Simon Wolf Agent and Consul-General.. Cairo 4,000.
China.
John Russell Young Envoy Extr. and Min. Plen.. Peking $12,000.
Chester H. Holcombe Secy Legat. and Interpreter.Peking 5,000.
Owen N. Denny Consul-General Shanghai 5,000.
Japan.
John A. Bingham En voy Extr. and Min. Plen.. Yedo $12,000.
Durham W. Stevens Secretary of Legation Yedo 2,500.
T. P. Van Buren Consul Yokoliama 4,400.
Thomas B. Van Buren Consul-General Kanagawn 4,000.
A. C. Jones Consul Nagasaki 3,000.
Julius Stahel •
Consul Osaka and Hiogo. 3,000.
SKELETON TOURS.
The time occupied and the approximate cost.
Of course the cost of traveling depends on the style of living ; but without wines
it should not average over $6 per day, devoting sufficient time to see each place
properly.
FIRST TOUR.
Suppose you have only three months' time and $700. You pay in going from
New York by some steamers $260, and by cheaper lines, both ways,
to Liverpool
$150. This would leave you $550 by going on one line, and $440 by going on the
otlier, or nearly $8 per day to spend for the balance of the time if you should go
by the cheap line. The best disposition of your time would be this : Ten days to
Paris. From Paris to Vienna, Austria, by the way of Cologne, Dusseldorf, Min-
den, Brunswick, Hanover, Berlin, Dresden, and Prague. From Vienna to Paris
by the way of Trieste, Venice, Padua, Verona, Milan, Genoa, and Marseilles, occu-
pying thirty days, which, with the ten days in Paris, and ten or eleven crossing the
Atlantic, would make fifty days, leaving thirty days to visit England, Ireland, and
INTRODUCTION. xxv
Scotland ; or, since the railroad has been finished from Munich to Vienna, instead
of returning by the way of Trieste and Venice, take tlie road from Vienna to Stras-
bourg, via Linz, Salsburg, Munich, Augsburg, Ulm, Stuttgart, Carlsruhe, and Ba-
den- Jiaden. Both trips should be made, if possible. From Munich an excursion
should be made to Innspruck, the capital of the Tyrol. The railroad is now finish-
ed. An additional ten days would take you through Belgium and Holland, viz. :
two days to Brussels, one to the field of Waterloo, two in Antwerp, one in Bottei-
dam, one at tlie Hague, and two at Amsterdam, connecting with the jjrevioub k; e
near Dusseldorf. This is sufticient time.
SECOND TOUR.
Suppose you have yb?<r months to spend. Take the same route as described in
the first, and, starting at Milan, via Parm:i, Modena, and Boiogna, taking two
days, three days at Florence, eight at Rome, live at Naples, and three at Palermo
—in all, with the time occupied on the steamer, thirty days.
This route will cost about $200 extra.
THIRD TOUR.
If you have five months to spend, instead of returning direct to Paris by the
way of Marseilles, you may spend thirty days very profitably by returning via Tu-
rin, over Mount Cenis, Geneva, Chamouni, Lake Geneva, Lausanne, Vevay, Ville-
neuve, INLartigny, Leukerbad, the Gemmi Pass, Interlachen, Berne, Lucenie, Zurich,
Schaffhausen, Lake Constance, Bregenz, Innspruck, Munich, Stuttgart, Bruchsal,
back to Baden-Baden thence to Heidelberg, Frankfort, Mayence, Wiesbaden,
;
FOURTH TOUR.
Travelers who intend spending one year abroad, and wish to make the ascent of
the Nile, "r/o" Syria and the Holy Land, Constantinople and Greece, will require
season in that country, and is the only one you can spend there without interfering
with a more important portion of your trip, as there is only one season to ascend
the Nile, and we do not wish to retrace any portion of the route —two weeks in
Paris, six weeks in Switzerland, Bavaria, Wurtemburg, the Tvrol. the cities on the
Vol. I.— B
xxvi INTRODUCTION.
Ehine, and the German watering-places ; that brings us to the first of September.
Then Belgium, Holland, Prussia, Saxony, Bohemia, and Austria to Vienna. From
Vienna to Trieste, cross the Adriatic to Venice, through Italy to Naples, occupy-
ing two and a half months.
On the middle of November we leave Naples for Palermo, Messina, and Alexan-
dria, arriving at Cairo about the first of December. After spending two weeks en-
joying the mild and balmy atmosphere of the resting-place of the Pharaohs, we pro-
ceed lip the Nile to the Second Cataract, -which excursion generally occupies two
months if in small boats. Steamers now make the ascent of the Nile. On return-
ing to Cairo the first of March, having made a trip to Suez, to visit the spot whence
the Children of Israel crossed the Red Sea, we pass through the Suez Canal, take
steamer for Jaffa, spending the month of March and first week in April visiting Je-
rusalem, Dead Sea, Jericho, and the Jordan traveling through the centre of
tlie ;
Syria, via the Lake of Galilee, to Damascus from Damascus to the ruins of Baal-
;
bec, thence to Beyront, where we again take steamer for Constantinople, passing
Tripoli, Latakia. Alexandretta, Rhodes, vSmyrna, and the Dardanelles, or by anoth-
er route — more direct — stopj^ing at Cyprus, Rhodes, and Smyrna ; from Constan-
tinople to Marseilles via Athens, ari-iving in Paris about the first of May.
FIFTH TOUR.
Should you not wish to return to Paris or London after your long absence, you
may take steamer at Marseilles for Barcelona, then to Madrid by rail, making the
same trip described in our tour througli Spain. This trip will occupy nearly two
months. This tour should not cost you over $350 extra. These estimates are
based on first-class rates and a liberal expenditure.
Experience has shown, when traveling abroad, that while on railway cai-s and
steamers first class, the expenses are about $10 per day ; second class, $7 — that
is, traveling about twelve hours per day ; if day and night, nearly double. This
rule will apply as well when crossing the Atlantic on some lines. If you remain
a long time in a cheap country, you may make your expenses average $3 50 or
$4- per day ; for instance : A tour of one year, spending three weeks on the Nile,
two months in the Holy Land, may be made for $2120 ; viz. :
Continent, occupying two and a lialf months, viz. : via London, Cologne, Basle,
Lucerne, Gothard Pas?, Lake Maggiore, Milan, Venice, Trieste, Vienna, Prague,
St.
In addition to the above tours, we wish to call attention to the fact that the same may
be made at a great reduction in price by availing one's self of special arrangements
made by the Cook Tourist Agency, 371 Strand, London, with the different, railroad
and steamboat companies of Great Britain and on the Continent. You can travel alone
with your own family or party, or join a party of strangers all at the same price.
This firm takes or sends all its people first class, and stops at first-class hotels, and
certainly for one third less the cost to a traveler than traveling on his own account.
The coupons for the different countries are printed in English, with the French,
German, and Italian on the opposite page, obviating the necessity of the com-ier
in translating, many of the employes in all the hotels speaking English.
It is absolutely necessary, when traveling in Europe by railway, to be at the sta-
tion full fifteen minutes before the starting-time, in order to get your ticket, as well
as to attend to your baggage, see it checked, or placed on the oars. The quantity
of luggage you can take inside the car depends on whether you are first class or
to visit the classic grounds of the Bard of Avon, to sit in the high-backed chair, in
the chimney-corner where he courted the lovely daughter of old Dame Hathaway,
or stand on that simple stone under which lie his mortal remains in the parish
church of Stratford-upon-Avon ; some may have time and taste for all, some for
only one ; we will consequently describe the most prominent routes in a direct line,
or nearly so, asking the traveler to examine his map on arriving at each stopping-
place, find in the index the names of places of importance in the vicinity, read them
carefully, then diverge or continue as his tastes or time may dictate.
In Great Britain most of the routes are commenced from London, as you may
enter the British Isles at Queenstown, Glasgow, Liverpool, Southampton, New
Haven, Dover, Folkstone, or Harwich ; at whichever point you enter you have
only to reverse the route to London, then commence from that capital.
THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FRO)! LONDON TO THE PUINCIPAl
PORTS, CITIES, AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN EUROPE,
ASIA, AFRICA, AND AMERICA.
nel, Bologna, and Brindisi from Brindisi ; via Harwich, Rotterdam, and Oberhausen;
\)\ till! sle.uners of the I'luiiisiilar and Ori- I time, 35 hours fare, $21. ;
terdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and London to Bordejux, via Paris time, 26 ;
taken on the French and North Italian lines. LMudon to Brunswick, Germany, via Har-
Sleeping-herth for entire distance, 618 25. wich (daily) time, 29 hours fare, $17 50.
; ;
Brindisi may be reached via Ostend, London to Brussels (twice a day), via Os-
Brussels, Cologne, Munich, and Bologna, tend time, 9| h. fare, $12. Or via Har-
; ;
at an additional cost of $8 and one more wicli and Antwerp time, 17 h. fare, $6 25. ; ;
(Great Eastern Kaihvay) and steamer to m. ; fare, $7 50. Channel trip time, 1^ h. ;
Rotterdam (daily) time, 18 hours fare, $9. ; ; London to Calcutta, viu the Suez Canal
London to Antwerp, via Harwich (this (monthly) ; fare, $275.
route is highly recommendable), whence London to the Cape of Good Llope (every
by boat direct time, 14 hours fare, 6G 50.
; ; two weeks) fare, $157. ;
Trieste, 5 days 8 h., via the Austrian London to Christiania, via Cologne, Min-
Lloyd's steamers, which generally leave den, Haml)urg, and Kiel time. 4 days ;
Trieste every Saturday at 2 P.5I., change fare, $41 50. Or steamer from London to
steamers at Syra, and arrive at Athens Hamburg, thence to Altona and Kiel
Tuesday morning. This is considered the time, 4 days fare, $23 50. Or by steam-
;
London to Basle, via Calais, Amiens, wich, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Emerich, and
Laon, and Belfort, in 20 hours fare, ; Oberhausen time, 20 hours fare, $14 25.
; ;
$27 25. Or via Harwich and Rotterdam ; And via Rott.n-dam fare. $13 25. :
time, 33 hours fare, $20 15. ; Lx>ndon to Lake Como (daily), via Paris,
London to Belfast, via Dublin time, ; Strasbourg, Basle, Lucerne, St. Gothard
16 h. 40 m. fare, £3 5*'. Gd. Via Greenore
; Tunnel, Bellinzona, and Lugano time, 31 ;
hours ; Also via Harwich, Co- Marseilles, Genoa, and Spezzia time, 42
fare, 6o-i. ;
logne, in 34 hours; fare, 02". Also via hours; fare, $44 44. Also via Harwich,
Frankfort, Stuttgart, Ulm, and Friedrichs- Rotterdam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich,
hafen ; time, 49 hours fare, $35 50. and the Brenner Pass ; fare, $49 39.
;
hagen by rail time, 46 hours fare, $38 50. via Paris and Strasbourg time, 22 hours
; ; ;
;
Or via Hamburg by steamer direct, Al- fare, $29 25. Or via Harwich, Rotterdam
tona, Kiel, and Korsor time, 4 days or Antwei*p, and Cologne
; fare. $23 07. ;
seilles, and Beyrout, steamers weekly from (express): fare, $27 50. Or via Dieppe
Marseilles time, 13 days; fare, 8163. and Newhaven time, 32 hours (actual
; ;
steamers to Beyrout, and diligence to Da- Paris, Marseilles, and Nice (daily) time, ;
mascus time, 15 days fiire about the 30 hours fare, $29 50. Or via Dieppe
; ; ;
same as the other route. and NeAvhaven time, 36 hours fare, $22. '
; ;
London to Dantzic, via Cologne and Ber- London to Gibraltar (weekly), by steam-
lin (daily) time, 52 hours: fare, 844 50. ers from Liverpool fare, $47.
; ;
London to Diejype (daily), via Newha- London to Glasgotc,hy London and North-
ven time, 7| hours fare, $4 50.
; ;
western Railway and Cal. Railway, in 10|
London to Dover, several times dail}' hours. (See Routes 62, 84, 88.)
time (express), 1 h. 45 m. fire, £1. London to Gottenburg, Sweden (weekly)
;
fare, 825. Or lia Rotterdam b}- steamer, London to Hamburg (daily), via Harwich
rail to Oberhausen, in 40 hours fare, $28. and Rotterdam time, 28 hours fare, $19.
; ; ;
London to Dublin, from Euston Station by Via Ostend, Cologne, and Hanover (daily)
London and Northwestern Railway, in 11 time, 31 hours fare, $30. Or by steamer ;
h. 5m. f;ire. £3. (See Route 87 and' p. 217.) direct time, 40 hours fare, $10.
; ; ;
time, 30 hours fare, $7 50. Or via Har- Or via Ostend, Brussels, and Cologne
;
I
wich and Rotterdam, in 22 hours fare, time, 27 hours fare, $25 50. ;
:
$12 26. Or via Calais and Aix-la-Cha- London to Havre (daily), via Southamp-
pelle time, 22 hours
; fare, $19. ton time, 10 h. 30 m. fare, $6 75.
; ; ;
London to Edinburgh, twice each day London to Heidelberg, via Calais and Do-
time, 12 hours. ver, Paris and Strasbourg (daily) time, ;
London to Florence (daily), via Paris, 28 hours fare, $30. Or via Calais, Brus- ;
30
TO THE PRINCIPAL PORTS, CITIES, PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC.
sels, Cologne, and Mayence time, 2G h. ; Mont Cenis Tunnel, Turin, and Genoa
I
Fiankfort; time, 25 hours; fare, $22. Paris, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Cid-
i
Lo7idon to Hong Kong, via Calais and luad-Real, and Badajoz (daily); time, 3
Dover, Paris, Marseilles, Suez Canal, days, 8 h. fare, $69 20. Or via steamer ;
Point de Galle, and Singapore (weekly) from Southampton, in 3^ days fare, $42.
; I
;
time, i>S days fare, $492 50. ; Tendon to Lirerpool, from Euston Station
j
and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Munich, Route 84. From Paddington, by G. W. R'y,
Rosenheim, and Kufstein ; time, 40 hours in 5 h. 25 m. fare, £1 9s. (Oxford, Leam- ;
Lloyd's) to Jaffa, by diligence from Jaffa Or via Dieppe and Newhaven, Paris, Muhl-
to Jerusalem time, 14 days. Or via house, and Basle ; time, 36 h. fare, $21 50.
; ;
Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, Messina, Alex- London to Lyons, France, via Calais and
andretta, and Beyrout by the Messageries Dover time, 21 hours fare, $28. Or via ; ;
Maritimes' steamers from Marseilles (the Newhaven and Dieppe, Paris and Macon ;
cost by this route is somewhat higher) time, 28 hours fare, $20 50. I
London to Kiel (daily), via Harwich, Rot- times each month) time, 7 days fare, $96. ; ;
terdam, and Hamburg time, 34 hours London to Madrid, via Calais and Dover,
; ;
I
Frankfort, and Gemunden time, 26 hours London to Malaga, via Calais and Dover,
;
and Dover, Paris, Dijon, Dole, and Pont- disturbed state (its normal condition), the
'
London to Leghorn, via Calais and Do- London to Mayence, via Calais and Do-
ver, Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, Nice, Genoa, ver, Brussels ; time, 23 hours ; fare, $21.
and Spezzia time, if steamer is taken Via Harwich and Rotterdam (daily) time,
;
;
London to JJodtna, Italy (daily), via Cal- Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen time,
via ;
ais and Dover, Paris, Culoz, Turin, Ales- 11|^ hours fare, $8 25. Or via Southamp- ;
sandria, Piacenza, and Parma time, 40 ; ton and Havre time, 19J hours fare, ; ;
Calais and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Stutt- London to Pesth, via Calais and. Dover,
gart, in 3G hours fare, $37. Via Newha-
; Paris, Munich, and Vienna (daily); time,
ven and Dieppe in 42 hours fare, $29 50. ; 56 h. 20 m. (express); fare, $55 25.
Loruhn to Naples, via Calais and Dover, London to Prague (daily), via Calais and
Paris, Macon, Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Dover, Brussels, Cologne, Leipzig, and
and Foggia (daily) time, 59 hours fare,; ; Dresden time, 46 hours fare, $39 45.
; ;
$58 14. Or by the St. Gothard in 44 h., London to the Rhine. (The Rhine is very
via Milan fare, about the same. Steamers
; tame below Cologne, and not much better
ma}' be taken at Marseilles direct to Na- above Mayence. During the season June —
ples. Or, instead of taking the Brindisi to October —
take steamer at Cologne or
route via Ancona and Foggia, the route Bonn, and leave at Mayence.) To Cologne,
via Bologna, Florence, and Perugia ma}' via Harwich and Rotterdam, $11 75. To
be taken time a little longer; fare about
; Cologne, via Calais and Dover, Brussels,
the same. If from Austria, the Austrian Liege, Verviers ; time, 19 hours; fare, $18.
Lloyd's steamers from Trieste to Ancona London to Rome, via Harwich, Rotter-
(sailing weekly) thence by rail to Naples
; dam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the
via Foligino and Rome, or via Foggia. Brenner Pass ; fare, $52 75.
If via Dieppe and Newhaven from London and LjOndon to Rome (daily), via Calais
to Paris, the fare will be $50 64 Gothard Tunnel, and
; time, Dover, Lucerne, St.
65 hours. Milan, in 38 h. fare, $52 50. (See Route ;
London to Naples, via Harwich, Rotter- 34, Vol. III.) By Marseilles and Nice, 52
dam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the h. 33 m. fare, $55 16. Or via Calais, Paris, ;
steamer to Ostend (daily) time, 7 hours London to Schlangenbad, via Calais, Co-
;
;
via Calais and Dover, Paris, Mont Cenis, hours fare, $20 75. ;
Bologna, Foggia, and Naples. Then by London to Spa, via Ostend, Brussels,
steamer to Palermo in 18 hours time, 77 Liege, Verviers, and Pepinster time, 14 h.
;
;
and Dieppe, Paris, and Naples time, 84 London to St. Morltz, Switzerland, vvi
;
London to St. Petersburg (daily), via Cal- London to Warsato (daily), via Calais and
ais and Dover, Cologne, Berlin, Warsaw, Dover,Brussels, Cologne, Berlin, and Brom-
and Kigi time, 6-4 h. 20 m. (express) fare, berg; time, 41 hours; fare, $44.
: ;
$;67 50. Also by steamer to Hamburg, London to Wisbaden (daily), via Har-
railway to Lubeck, thence by steamer to wich time, 27 hours; fare, $15 75. Or
;
St. Petersburg, in G days fare, about 6'45. via Calais and Dover, Brui>sels, Liege, Ver-
;
London to Stuttgart^ via Harwich time, viers, and Cologne time (by rail from
; ;
31^ hours fare, 821 25. Via Ostend, -Brus- Cologne), 24 hours fare, $20 75.
; If by ;
dam or Antwerp, Cologne, Munich, and the $30 85. Or via Newhaven and Dieppe
Brenner l*ass faro, $47 32. ; time, 35 hours fare, $23 35. ;
London to Trieste, via Calais, Brussels, All the above fares are iiret class. If
Cologne, Mayence, Nuremberg, Eegens- traveling second class, the fare averages
burg, Linz, and Trieste time, 64 hours about twenty-five per cent, less the time
; ;
40 m. fare. 665.
; and doubling the amount, the traveling
London to Turin, via Calais and Dover, cost from the United States to any of the
Paris, Mont Cenis, and Susa time, 84 above-mentioned places will be ascertained.
;
London to Vichfj (dail}'), via Calais and via the Su?z Canal, every Thur.sday for
Dovor. Paris; time, 24 hours (four hours the INIediterranean and Bombay; every
in Paris) fare, $23 25.
; Or via Newhaven second Thursday for Cej-lon, Madras, Cal-
and Dieppe, Paris time, 30 hours fare, cutta, Clwna, Japan, Australia, and New
; ;
and Dover, Paris, Strasbourg, Stuttgart, and from Brindisi every Monday, to
and Munich time, 48 hours fare, $4'J 75. Alexandria, Aiden, and Bombay.
; ;
Tlip above calcnlati'iis are based on tlie ordinary rate of t>pecd by express trains.
Vou I.— B 2
THE BEST km MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS TO THE PRINCIPAL
CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN GREAT BRITAIN AND
The time is by the quickest trains and Paris to Amiens, France, via Creil ; time,
steamers, and the fares frst class. The 2 h. 40 m,
83 20. ; fare,
second class averages about twenty-five Paris to Amsterdam, via Amiens, Lille,
per cent. less. First class is always pref- Mons, Brussels, Rotterdam, and the Hague
erable if the traveler can afford it, the sec- time, 12 h. 50 m. fare, $12 10. ;
ond never being equal in comfort. Paris to Ancona, Italy, v^ia Dijon, Ma-
By referring to the Index at the end of con, Culoz, Mont Cenis, Turin, and Bo-
this volume, the names of places men- logna time, 33 h. 40 m.
;
fare, $32 28. ;
tioned in the different routes will be found. Paris to A ntwerp (two departures dail}'),
Paris to Adelshurg (cave of), Austria, t*2a via Amiens, Lille, Mons, and Brussels
Strasbourg, Stuttgart, Munich,yienna, and time, 8 h. 48 m. fare, $9 5G. ;
Gratz ; or cross the Brenner Pass from Paris to Aries, France, via Dijon, Macon,
Munich via Kufstein, lunspruck, Verona, and Lyons time, 17 h. 50 m. fare, $19 10.
; ;
and Vevay; time, 17 hours 30 m. fare, ers, the traveler stops at the is^lands of
;
ures daily), via Creil, Compiegne, Terg- every other week to Piraeus (Athens)
nier, St.Quentin, Maubcuge,Charleroi, Xa- time, 7 d. 4 h. (46 h. 45 m, to Brindisi);
mur, and Liege; time, 10 h. 15 m. fare, fare, $81 50. Direct via Marseilles (every
;
Paris to Air-Ies-Bains, France (two de- Paiis to Augsburg, Bavaria (two depart-
partures daily), via Fontainebleau, Melun, ures dail}-), via Chalons, Nancy, Stras-
Dijon, Bcaune, jiacon, Amberieu, and Cu- bourg, Carlsruhe, Bruchsal Junction, and
loz; time, 13 h. 29 m. fare, .^14 40.
; Stuttgart time, 22 h. 50 m. fare, $21 50.
; ;
Paris to Algiers, via Dijon, Lyons, Mar- Paris to Baden, Switzerland, via Bel-
seilles, and Barcelona time to Marseilles, fort, Muhlhouse, Basle, and Olten time,17
; ;
16 hours, and via the Messageries Mari- hours fare, $14 50. ;
P.M. Friday, the traveler will have six Paris to Bagnerres de Bigorre (P^'re-
hours in Marseilles before the sailing of nees), via Orleans, Tours, Poitiers, Angon-
the steamer fare to Marseilles, $21 50.
; leme, Bordeaux, and Tarbes time, 19 h. ;
34
THE BEST A.NU MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS.
35 tn. fare, $21. (The waters of this place nis, Bologna, Brindisi, Alexandria, and
;
are very efficacious in cases of gout.) Suez (every other week) time, 18 days ;
;
Paris to Bo.mherg, Gcrmsiny via Cologne, time, 15 hours fare, $12 37.
^ ;
Coblentz, Mayence, Frankfort, and Wurz- Paris to Bordeaux, via Orleans, Tours,
burg; time, 24 h, 30 m. and Poitiers time, 9 h. 40 m. fare, $14 40. ; ;
Pans to Barcelona, via Bordeaux, Ba- Paris to Bormio, via Belfort, Basle, Zu-
yonne, Pampeluna, and Saragossa time, rich, Coire, Samaden, and Sirano time, 43
; ;
Paris to Basle,' via Belfort and Muhl- Patis to Boulogne, via Creil and Amiens
house time, 10 1). 35 m. fare, $12 80.
;
time, 4 h. 40 m.
; fare, $6 25. ;
Paris to Z/a//«, England, r/a London and Paris to Brcgenz, Tyrol, via Belfort,MuhI-
Reading time, 14 hours fare, $17 25.
; house, Basle, Zurich, and Romanshorn
;
and 10 h. 20 m. night train fare, $10 90. PaiHs to Brienz, via Berne, Thun, and
;
Magdeburg time, 24 h. 20 m.
;
fare, $16 20. ;
rusalem (Austrian Lloyd's) time. 15 days Paris to Bruges, via Brussels time, 8 h.
; ;
Paris to Bex, Switzerland, via Dijon, Paris to Brunswick; Germany, via Co-
Dole, Pontarlier, Lausanne, and Vevay logne, Hamm, Minden, and Hanover; time,
;
jon, Macon, and Geneva time and fare Paris to Brussels, via INIons and Mau-
;
Paris to Bcyrout, via Macon, Mont Ce- Pans to Bucharest, Roumania, via Stras-
nis, Bologna, Brindisi, Corfu, Zante, Syra, bourg, Stuttgart, Munich, Vienna, Lem-
Smj'rna, Rhodes, and Cyprus time, 14 berg, Jassy, and Galatz
; or via Munich, ;
Bordeaux, and Bayonne time, IG h.4U m. fare, changeable, but about 358 frs.
;
nis, Brindisi, to Alexandria, rail to Suez, Paris to Colico, Italy, on Lake Como,
and via the Peninsular and Oriental steam- tia Belfort, Muhlhouse, Basle, Zurich,
ers to Point de Galle time, 26 days fare, ; ; Coire, thence by diligence to Splugen, and
$378. Chiavenna by the Via Mala ; whole time,
Paris to Cambridge, England, via Cal- 44 hours fare, $24 SO.
; The time from
ais, Dover, and London time, 14 hours ;
;
Coire by diligence is 21 hours.
fare, S17. Paris to Cologne, via Namur, Liege, and
Paris to Cannes, via Dijon, Lyons, Mar- Aix-la-Chapelle time, 11 h. 5 m. ; fare, ;
50 m. fare, 828.
; h. 29 m. fare, $2 06. ;
Paris to Cai-lshad, via Carlsruhe and U Im Paris to Constantinople, via Vienna and
time, 37 h. 40 m. fare, $31 40
;
cheaper Varna, whence —
by Imperial and Royal Dan-
and longer by Nuremberg or Bamberg. ube steamers 103 h. fare, $90 the quick- ; ; —
Paris to Carlsruhe, via Strasbourg and est and cheapest route to Constantinople.
Baden-Baden; time, 14 h. 30m.; fare, $15 40. Paris to Constantinople, via Macon, Mont
Paris to Cassel, via Nancy, Strasbourg, Cenis, Bologna, Brindisi, Corfu, and Syra,
Heidelberg, and Frankfort time, 22 h. 30 by the Austrian Lloyd's steamers from
;
Paris to Ceite, via Orleans, Tours, Bor- Paris to Copenhagen, via Cologne, Han-
deaux, Agen, Toulouse, Carcassonne, and over, Hamburg, and Kiel time, 38 h. 40 ;
Paris to Chalons sur Marne, via Eper- Pans to Cordova, Spain, via Bordeaux,
nay time, 4 hours fare, $4 25.
; ; Bayonne, and Madrid time, 51 h. 40 m. ;
Paris to Chamounix, via Dijon, Macon, quicker route is via Calais, London, Ban-
and Geneva. By rail to Geneva, thence gor, and Dublin, but double the expense. '
Paris to Charlerd, via Compiegne and ampton, and steamer from Southampton
St. Quentin time, 5 h. 40 m. fare, $6 50. to Cowes time, 14 hours
; ; fare, $6 25. ; ;
Paris to Chats^corth, England, via Cal- PaHsto Craco?/?,t"{a Cologne, Dresden, and !
ais and Dover, London, Derby, and Rows- Breslau time, 43 h. 10 m. fare, $38 50. ; ;
I
80 h. 20 m. fare, $48 70. Or by steamer Said, Jaffa, and Bey rout about the same
; ;
Paris to Clarens, Switzerland, via Ma- Paris to Damascus, via ISIont Cenis, Bo-
con, Geneva, Lausanne, and Yevay time, logna, Brindisi, and Beyrout; time, 15 days;;
86
TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC.
Paris to the Dardanelles, via Mont Cenis, Paris to Epernay, via Chateau-Thierry ;
Bologna, Brindisi, Zante, Syra, and Smyr- time, 3 hours fare, $4 25. ;
Paris to Dresden, via Cologne, Hanover, Paris to Frankfort, via Pagny, Bingen,
Magdeburg, and Leipzig time, 28 hours ; and Mayence, in 15f hours fare, 85 frs. ;
Paris to Dusseldorf, via St. Quentin, Paris to Freybi/rg, Switzerland, ria Di-
Liege, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Neuss time, ; jon, Dole, and Pontarlier; time, 16 hours;
12 hours fare, $11 27. ; fare, $14 15.
Paris to Eaux Bonnes, via Orleans, Paris to Geneva, via Dijon, Macon, and
Tours, Bordeaux, and Pau time, 21 h. ; Culoz two trains daily.
; An express
50 m. fare, $21 85.
; leaves Paris at 7.13 P.M., arriving at
Diligences leave Pau daily for Eaux Geneva at 6.55 A.M. in 11 h. 42 ni. this — ;
Bologna, Brindisi, and Austrian Lloyd's Palis to Genoa, via Macon. Lyons,
steamers time, 5 d. 12 h. fare, $75 50.
; ; Avignon, Marseilles, Toulon, Nice, Men-
Paris to Eisenach, via Strasbourg, Frank- tone, and Vintimiglia time, 31 h. 30 m. :
fort, and Bebra time, 25 hours fare,; ; fare, $31. Or via Macon, Culoz, Mont
$24 80. Cenis, Turin, and Alessandria time, 36 ;
Paris to Emerich, via Namur, Liege, Co- hours fare, $25 25.
;
Paris to Ems, via Namur, Liege, Aix- 20 hours (6 by diligence from Geneva):
la-Chapelle, Cologne, and Coblentz time, ; fare, $19 80 (coupe, $4 40 banquette or ;
Paris to the Hague, via Mons, Brussels, Paris to Jerez, via Orleans, Tours, Bor-
and Antwerp time, 12 h. 56 m. fare, $11.
; ; deaux, Bayonne, Madrid, Cordova, and
Paris to Hamburg, via Namur, Liege, Seville time, 60 hours fare, $45 10.
; ;
Colofrne,and Hanover time, 23 hours ; Perm to Jerusalem, via Mont Cenis, An-
fare, 112 fr.40 c. cona, Brindisi, Zante, Alexandria, Port
Paris to Hanover, via Namur, Liege, Co- Said, and Jafta time, 7 d. 10 h, ;fare, ;
Paris to Hamburg, via Nancy, Stras- Paris to Kingstotvn, Ireland, ina Calais,
bourg, Heidelberg, and Frankfort time, ; Dover, London, Chester, and Holyhead;
19 h. 15 m. fare, $17 40. ; time, 20 h. 45 m. fare, $29 50. ;
Paris to Hong Kong, India, via Macon, Paris to Kissingen, Bavaria, via Nancy,
Mont Cenis, Turin, Bologna, Ancona, Brin- Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Frankfort, and
disi, Austrian Lloyd's steamers to Alex- Wurzburg time, 22 h. 20 m. fare $23 45. ;
;
touch at Bombay, Point de Galle, Madras, Paris to Lausanne, via Dijon, Dole,
|
Calcutta, Penang, Singapore, and Batavia. Pontarlier, and Neufchatel time, 1 6 hours ;
38
TO THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PLACES OF INTEREST, ETC.
Paris to Leipzig, via Cologne, Hanover, seilles, Toulon, and Nice ; time, 24 h. 20 na.
and Magdeburg; time,24 hours; fare,$22 60. fare, $27 40.
Paris to Paris to Messina, via Dijon, Lyons, and
Leukerbad, Switzerland, via Di-
jon, Dole, Lausanne, and Sierre (carriage Marseilles.
12 miles from Sierre) time, 2G hours fare, Pai-is to Milan, via Macon, Mont Cenis,
; ;
Paris to Lisbon, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Cologne time, 17 h. 45 m. fare, $15 80. ; ;
Baj'onne, Madrid, Manzanares, and Bada- Paris to Modane, via Macon, Culoz, and
joz time, GO hours
; fare, $59. Chambery time, 17 h. 10 m. fare, $17 87.
; ; ;
Paris to Liverpool, via Calais, Dover, Paris to Modena, via Macon, Mont Ce-
and London time, 18 hours fare, $23.
; nis, Turin, and Piacenza
; time, 27 hours ;
;
time, 8|- hours fare, 70 fr. Via Dieppe seilles, Toulon, and Nice time, 23 h. 50
;
;
liead, and D ublin time, 28 h. 20 m. fare, $31. Bordeaux, Toulouse, and Narbonne
; ; time, ;
Palis to Madrid, via Orleans, Bordeaux, and Smolensk time, 82 hours fare, 374 ; ;
Bavonne, and Burgos time, 36 hours fare, frs. Via Berlin and "Warsaw; time, 87
; ;
$36 15. hours fare, 391 frs. Via Berlin and Wilna ;
Parti to Magdeburg, via Namur, Liege, time, 82 hours fare, 369 frs. ;
Cologne, Minden, and Hanover time, Paris to Munich, via Strasbourg and ;
Paris to Malaga, Spain, via Orleans, Paris to Namur, Belgium, via Creil, St.
Bordeaux, Bavonne, Madrid, and Cordo- Quentin, and Maubeuge time, 6 h. 35 m. ;
Paris to Manchester, via Calais, London, Paris to Xantes, via Orleans, Tours,
Rugby, and Crewe time, 16 hours fare, Saumur, and Angers time, 8 h. 21 m.
; ; ;
Paris to Marseilles, via Dijon, Macon, Paris to Neufchatel, via Dijon, Dole,
and Lyons time, 15 hours fare, $21 25. and Pontarlier time, 11 h. 50 m. fare,
; ; ; ;
Paris to Mayence, via Liege, Cologne, Paris to Nimes, via Dijon, Macon, Ly- j
Bonn, Coblcntz, and Bingen time, 17 h. ons, and Tarascon time, 15 h. 26 ra. fare,
; I
; ;
Paris to Mechlin, via Mons, Maubeuge, Paris to Novara, via Macon, Mont Cenis,
and Brussels time, 7 hours fare, $7 75. and Turin time, 23 h. 20 m. fare, $22 80.
; ; ; ;
Paris to Mentone, via Dijon, Lyons, Mar- Paris to Nuremberg, via Strasbourg,Carls-
39
THE BEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTES FROM PARIS
ruhe, and Crailsheim ; time, 21 hours ; fare, Turin, Bologna, and Florence time, 35 ;
Mainz, and Wurzburg time, 21 h. fare, ; ; Paris to Poitiers, via Orleans and Tours
115 fr. 35 c. Or more direct via Cologne, time, 6 h.8m. ; fare, $8 10.
Frankfort, and Wurzburg time, 24 hours ; Paris to Prague, via Strasbourg, Carls-
fare, $20 40. ruhe, Crailsheim, Nuremberg, Schwan-
Paris to Oherhausen, via Namur, Liege, dorf, and Furth ; time, 33 hours; fare,
Cologne, and Dusseldorf; time, 13 hours; $31 60.
fare, $13. Paris to Preshurg, via Nancy, Stras-
Paris to Olten, via Troyes, Chaumont, bourg, Stuttgart, Munich, and Salzburg ;
Belfort, and Basle ; time, 15 h. 50 m. ; fare, time, 38 hours fare, $36 97. ;
Dover, and London time, 12 hours fare, Pa7'is to the Rhine, via Liege and Aix-
; ;
Turin, Melun, Bergamo, and Verona; time, Paris to Riga, Russia, via Cologne, Ber-
23 h. 35 ra. fare, $28 06.
; lin, Eydtkuhnen, and Dunabourg time, ;
nis, Bologna, Foggia, and Naples, and Paris to Rochefort (sur Mer), via Or-
steamer to Palermo in 18 hours time, 65 leans, Tours, and Poitiers time, 11 h. 51
; ;
Paris to Pamplona, Spain, via Orleans, Paris to Romanshorn, via Belfort, Muhl-
Bordeaux, Bayonne, and Alsasua time, house, Basle, and Zurich time, 19 h. 20 ; ;
Paris to Parma, via Mont Cenis, Turin, Paris to Rome, via Macon, Mont Cenis,
and Alessandria time, 26 hours fare, Turin, Alexandria, and Genoa time, 41 h.
; ; ;
Pans to Pau, via Orleans, Bordeaux, Paris to Rotterdam,, via Mons, Brussels,
and Dax time, 16 h. 23 m. fare, $20 16.
; ; and Antwerp time, 12f h. ; fare, 62 frs. ;
Paris to Pembroke, via Calais, London, Paris Rouen, via Mantes time, 2 h.
to ;
Chaumont, Belfort, Basle, Zurich, and Ra- Paris to Salzburg, via Nancy, Stras-
gatz time, 23 h. 10 m. fare, $18 80.
; ; bourg, Carlsruhe, and Munich time, 28 ;
Diligence from Eltville (1 h. 5 miles) in Paris to Suez, via Macon, Mont Cenis,
;
Paris to Schwalbach, via Namur, Liege, time, 6 days fare, $90. By the Message- ;
Cologne, and Eltville (2| h. diligence) ties Maritimes' steamers, sailing from Mar-
time, 18 hours fare, 6^16 3-1. ;
seilles, the time is longer and more ex-
Paris to Shanghai, via Macon, Mont Ce- pensive.
nis, Bologna, Brindisi, Alexandria, Suez, Paris to Thun, via Dijon, Dole, Pontar-
Bombay, iMadras, Calcutta, Singapore, Ba- lier, and Berne ; time, 15 h. 45 ra. fare, ;
fare, $515. Passengers take the Aus- Paris to Toledo, via Orleans, Bordeaux,
trian Lloyd's steamers to Alexandria then Bayonne, and ^ladrid ; time, 39 hours ;
Paris to Spa, via Liege time, 8 h. 27 Paris to Tvulon, via Dijon, Lyons, and
;
m. fare, $8 95.
; Marseilles time, 19 hours fare, $22 81. ; ;
Paris to Spezzia, via Lyons, Marseilles, Paris to Tuurs, via Bretigny, Chateau-
Nice, and Genoa. dun, and Vendomc time, 5 h. 39 m. fare, ; ;
Palis to Straiford-on-Avon, via Cal lis, Paris to Trieste, via Mont Cenis, !Milan,
Dover, and London time, 16 hours fare. and Venice time, 39 hours fare, $36 20.
; : ; ;
m. fare, 89 fr. 45 c.
;
Strasbourg, and Stuttgart time, 21 h. ;
Belfort, Lausanne, Vevay, and Martigny, Paris to Utrecht, via Mons, Brussels,
time, 30 hours fare, $21. ; Antwerp, and Rotterdam time,14 h. 10m.; ;
gence), $21 60. A carriage, with two hours fare, $89 80. Or via Messina, the
;
horses, four places, from Coire, will cost Dardanelles, and Constantinople, by the
$25. The diligence fare is $3 50 each Messageries !Maritimes' steamers from Mar-
iplace. seilles time, 8 days fare, $101 20. The
; ;
Paris to St. Petersburg, via Cologne, Ber- steamers of the Danube Steam Navigation
lin, Dirschau, Konigsberg, and Vilna Company do not run during the winter.
time, 69 hours fare, 322 frs. jNIixcd ticket,
; Paris to Venice, via ]Macon, Mont Cenis,
first class to Cologne and second to St. Milan, and Verona time, 31 h. 55 ni. ;
;
Paris toVevay, via Dijon, Dole, Pontar- Carlsruhe, and Limbach ; time, 33 h. 45 m.
lier, and Lausanne time, 16 hours fare,
; ;
fare, 182 fr. 45 c.
81-i 30. Paris to Zurich, via Belfort, Basle, and
Paris to Vicenza, via Macon, Mont Cenis, Brugg time, 13 h. 50 m. fare, $15 70.
; ;
Turin, Milan, and Verona; time, 8 h. 41m.; The above fares, corrected down to the
fare,829 23. spring of 1882, are contained in no other
Paris to Vichy, via Fontainebleau, Ne- guide-book extant. The time is calculated
mours. Nevers, and St. Germain de Fosses; at the ordinary express speed. Some seasons
time, 8 h. 3-i m. fare, $8 95.
; extraordinary quick trains run on several
Paris to Vienna, via Nancy, Strasbourg, of the lines, -which may modify the time.
42
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.
History. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] GOVERXMEKT.
The history of England is already too of Lords and Commons. The House of
familiar to the enlightened mind to render Lords consists of peers, whose and
titles
it necessar}'' to enter into it at length
; but seats are hereditar\', also bishops and arch-
as it is the intention to prelude each coun- bishops, and Scottish peers elected for the
try with some few historical remarks, the duration of the Parliament. According to
rule will be applicable here also. the Royal Calendar of 1869, the House of
The present mixed population of the Lords was composed of 5 peers of the blood
British Isles has been the result of the dif- royal, 21 dukes, 22 marquises, 132 earls, 31
ferent nations who have successively be- viscounts, 205 barons, 16 Scottish peers, 28
come their conquerors. The universal Irish peers, elected for life, 28 bishops and
opinion of all ancient ^\Titers is that the archbishops —
in all, 518 members. The
first inhabitants were some wandering Lord Chancellor, by virtue of his office, is
tribes of Gauls, who followed the religion president of the chamber. The House of
of the Druids, and polluted their worship Commons is composed of members elected
by the practice of human sacrifice. At by certain classes of the population, and
the time of the invasion of the Romans, is similar to our House of Representatives.
they found the same language and the same It numbers 658 members 493 from En-
:
form of government as existed among the gland and Wales, 105 from Ireland, and 60
Celts of the Continent. The Romans who from Scotland. The House of Commons
landed at Deal, under Julius C:esar, in the votes all supplies of money, but all laws
year 55 B.C., were succeeded by the Sax- must have the consent of both houses.
ons, afterward by the Danes under Canute, The President or Speaker of the House of
the Xormans under William the Conquer- Commons is elected at the opening of each
or in lOGG, The original Celts mostly in- Parliament. The Cabinet or Ministry is
habit the Higlilands of Scotland, Wales, generally formed of the leading members
and a greater portion of Ireland the An- of the majority in both Houses of Parlia-
;
glo-Saxon race, of Germanic descent, be- ment, the Premier or First Lord of the
tween whom and the former the leading Treasury, Secretaries of the Home Office,
distinction now exists, inhabit the Low- Foreign Office, etc. The House of Lords
lands of Scotland and the whole of En- is the highest court of justice in the king-
j
gland. The island first became familiar dom, which is the same as the Court of
!
to the Romans by the Gaelic name of Al- Appeals. Next in order is the High Court
bin, by which name only is it known among of Chancery, which is presided over bv the
the Gaels of Scotland. Lord High Chancellor. Three inferior
The population of Great Britain and Ire- courts succeed these, over which preside
land was estimated in 1881 at 35,246,502. Yice-Chancollors, then Master of the Rolls,
Its manufactures and commerce are une- then the three Tribunals of Commercial
qualed by any country in the world. Lan- Law, viz.. Queen's Bench, Exchequer, and
cashire contains many very extensive cot- Common Pleas,
ton-mills, employing a great number of Lender Augustine the Christian religion
hands. Its manufactures of wool and iron made rapid progress, and although all forms
are also very large. The iron-works where of worship are tolerated, the Protestant
the ore is reduced into metal are situated Episcopal Church, or Church of England,
in Staffordshire, but the iron manufacture is the government form, under the direc-
has its chief seat in Birmingham. Shef- tion of two archbishops and twcntj'-six
field is chiefly celebrated for its cutlery, bishops. The seats of the two archbishops
and London for its silver-plated goods. are Canterbury and York. The establish-
"Wool reigns supreme in Yorkshire and ed Church of Scotland is Presln'terian.
the west of England. The form of gov- There are also followers of the Church of
ernment is a limited monarchy, the suc- England in both Scotland and Ireland, al-
cession to the throne hereditary. The though in tlie latter the Koman Catholic
legislative power is shared by the Houses religion predominates.
43
Dominions. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] Productions.
The British Islands comprise in all near- The vegetable productions of the Brit-
ly five thousand. Most of them, however, ish Islands are those which belong to the
are uninhabited rocks. The two principal north temperate zone. Wheat can be culti-
islands —England, Scotland, and Wales, vated as far north as the fifty-eighth paral-
—
and Ireland contain about 116,339 square lel, beyond which line only barley, rye,
miles the first mentioned 83,82G, and Ire- and oats come to perfection. In the south-
;
land 32,513. The other members of the ern portion of England, the elm, beech,
British archipelago, viz., the Shetland Isl- maple, and chestnut attain the highest
ands, the Orkney Islands, the Hebrides, state of perfection while to the north, in
;
Isle of Man, Isle of Anglesey, Scilly Isl- rich abundance, may be found the oak,
ands, Isle of Wight, and the Channel Isl- birch, elm, alder, hazel, yew, willow, asli,
ands, consisting of Jersey, Guernsey, Al- and blackthorn. In Scotland, the alder,
derney, and Sark, which form a belt par- birch, poplar, Scotch fir, and mountain ash
allel to the coast of France, make the ag- are the principal productions.
gregate 121,115 square miles, with a pop- The carnivorous order of quadrupeds,
ulation in 1881 at 35,246,562. The popu- such as the wolf, bear, and wild boar, do
lation of the empire, however, including its not exist in the British Islands. The fox,
dependencies in various portions of the which is preserved for hunting, is quite
globe, amounts in all to 237,392,003—the rare, and the badger and otter have almost
population of India alone amounting to disappeared. The wild cat, however, ma\'
1*J3,259,589, other colonies and possessions, be found both in the north of England and
in the vicinity of 12,000.000. There is no Ireland. There are also some of the wild
country in Europe whose population in- ox still remaining, which, wnth other rumi-
creases so rapidly as that of Great Britain nating animals, such as the red deer, the
and Ireland. During the last 58 years the roebuck, and the fallow deer, may be seen
United States alone received over 5,000,000 in some of the parks of the nobility.
of its inhabitants, all other countries about The birds of Great Britain are verj' nu-
3,000,000. The annual emigration to the merous, comprising nearly half the entire
United States is now about 200,000. species found in Europe. The principal
The British Islands are surrounded by game birds are the grouse, partridge, wood-
offsets of the Atlantic Ocean. Between the cock, snipe, and pheasant, while the war-
main-land on the east is the North Sea bling tribe consists of the nightingale,
farther south the German Ocean, which di- thrush, blackbird, skylark, linnet, gold-
vides England from the Low Countries to finch, and wren.
;
The birds of prey are
the south of which is the English Chan- confined to falcon, ha v.k, golden eagle, and
'
Edinburgh, Duke of Saxe, Count of Ulster same rate as traveling in the United States,
and of Kent, born August 6, 18-44, Captain and about forty per cent, cheaper than
in the Roj-al Navy; married, January traveling first class on the Continent.
23, 1874, to Maria Alexandrovna, Grand- Great Britain had the first railway in
Duchess, daughter of the Emperor of all the world, viz., 38 miles, opened in 1825,
the Russias, Alexander II., by whom he increased in 1830 to 86 miles. It had at
has one prince, born October 15, 1874, at the end of 1871 15,288 miles. The United
Buckingham Palace, London. States had opened in 1827 three miles, and
5. Princess Ilelene Auguste Victoria, at the end of 1871 62,647, or nearly equal
Duchess of Saxe, born May 24, 1846 mar- to all of Europe combined, which had at
;
ried July 5, 1866, to Christian, Prince of the end of 1871 09,546 miles open for traffic.
Schleswig- Holstein - Sonderbourg- Augus-
tenbourg.
6. Princess Louise Caroline Alberts,
Duchess of Saxe, born March 18, 1848; IRELAND.
married March 22, 1871, to John Douglas We would most decidedly recommend
Sutherland, Marquis of Lome, eldest son travelers who intend visiting Ireland and
of the Duke of Arg^ide. Scotland to disembark at Queenstown, the
7. Prince Arthur AVilliam Patrick Al- harbor of Cork, visit the celebrated lakes
bert, Duke of Saxe, born May 1, 1850, of Killarney, and go north through Dub-
Lieutenafit of Engineers. lin, Belfast, and Coleraine, cross the North
8. Prince Leopold George Duncan Al- Channel to Glasgow, visit the principal
bert, Duke of Saxe, born April 7, 1853. places in Scotland, and then work up to
9. Princess Beatrice Maria Victoria Feo- London, visiting the principal objects of
dore, Duchess of Saxe, born April 14, 1857. interest on their way. "We advise this
—
course for two reasons first, there is noth-
THE AliMY. ing they will find on the Continent more
The regular troops in the United King- lovely or picturesque than the beautiful
dom and Colonies amount to about 135,000 lakes of Killarney, or, indeed, we may
men and 15,000 horses, and those in India say, the whole south and west of Ireland,
to 63,000. while there is little on the Continent that
The militia amount to 134,000 men, the can compare with Scottish scenery, which
yeomani^ (cavalry) to 15,000, and the corps ought to be visited and, second, if this,
;
of volunteers to 199,000. There is also a route be taken, it will save time and ex-
body of men under military organization pense, and insure the trip's being made,
called pensioners. In Ireland there is a as, nine times out of ten, travelers intend-
corps of police under militarj' organization, ing to visit Ireland and Scotland never get
consisting of 13,000 men with 400 horses. there if they proceed direct to the Conti-
nent they alwa^^s intend coming back by
:
THE NAVY. Ireland, but never do. The trip is one the
The effective force of the British Navy is tourist will never regret, and a hast}- tour
383 vessels, of these 40 are iron-clads of !
of the principal places in Ireland may be
different classes, and 60,000 men. Con- ! made in ten days. Presuming the travel-
tinual changes, howevev, are being made. er will adopt this course, we will commence
our description of Great Britain and Ireland
THE KAILWATS. with Ireland.
Railroads will be found in nearly every
direction in Great Britain, and the beauties ROUTES.
of the country ma}' be seen without leaving 1. Qucenstouvi to Cork, and excursions in
this highway. First-class railway travel- the vicinity, p. 50.
ing has for many years been higher than 2.Cork to Bantry, via, Bandon, p. 53.
in other countries, but the Grand Midland, 3.Cork to Kenmare and Killorvc?/, via
on Januarv 1, 1875, reduced the price to Macroon, p. 54.
46
Routes. [GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.] RCCTES.
4. Cork io the Lakes ofKillarney^ by rail, 24. Dublin to Sligo, via Mullingar, Car-
via Mallow Junction, p. 55. rick, and Boyle, p. 88.
5. Cork to Yourjhnl and Blachcater River 25. Sligo to Londonderry, vi(i Ballyshan-
to Fervioy, and return via Mallow, p. 55. non, Donegal, and Strabane, p. 88.
6. Killarney with its Excursions, and Tra- 26. Dublin to Ballyshannon, via Mul-
lee, p. 59. lingar, Cavan, Clones, and Enniskillen, p.
7. Cork to Limerick, ma Kilmallock, p. 90.
62. 27. Dublin io Londonderry, via Mullin-
8. Limerick to Tralee, by steamer down gar, Clones, Omagh, and Strabane, p. 91.
the Lower Shannon, via Beigh, Foynes, 28. Dublin to Belfast, via Drogheda and
Glin, Tarbert, and Kilrush, p. Gi. Dundalk, p. 91.
9. Limerick to Waterford, via Limerick 29. Dublin to Kingstown, and excursions
Junction, Tipperary, and Clonmel, p. G5. in the vicinity, p. 93.
10. Cork to Dublin, via Mallow, Kilmal- 30. Dundalk to Enniskillen, via Castle-
lock, Maryborough, and Kildare, p. G7. Blayney and Clones, p. 94.
11. Waterford io Dublin, via Kilkenny 31. Belfast to Londonderry, via Antrim
and Maryborough, p. 71. and Coleraine (branch to Portrush and
12. Wexford to Dublin, via Carlow and Giant's Causeway), p. 94.
Kildare, p. 73. 32. Be fast to Enniskillen, via Portadown,
13. Wexford to Diiblin, via Arklow and Armagh, and Clones, p. 95.
"NVicklow, p. 74. 33. Newry io Belfast, via Rostrever, New-
14. Cork to Wexford, p. 77. castle, and Downpatrick, p. 95.
15. Lime7'ick to Boyle, via Ennis, Tuam, 34. Drogheda to Belfast, via Navan, Kells,
Dunmore, and Castlereagh, p. 78. and Oldcastle, p. 97.
Limerick to Dublin, via Roscrea, Mary-
16. 35. Coleraine to Belfast, by the Great
borough, and Kildare, p. 79. Coast Road, via the Giant's Causeway and
17. Limerick to A thlone, via Lough Derg Ballycastle, p. 98.
and the River Shannon, p. 80. any importance are
All the routes of
18. Killarney to Kenmare, ina Yalentia, given above. To make them all will oc-
and Waterville, p. 81. cupy two months. A ten days' trip would
19. Dublin to Gahcay, via Mullingar, Ath- be landing at Queenstown, Cork and ex-
lone, and Ballinasloe, p. 82. cursions. Blarney, Youghal, Killarney by
20. Galway to Clifden, via Oughterard rail, excursions, rail to Dublin, Belfast,
and Ballinahinch, p. 83. the Giant's Causeway, Londonderry, and
21. Dublin io ire5//jor^,i'mMullingar, Ath- steamer to Glasgow.
lone, Roscommon, Castlereagh, and Castle- After reading a description of the differ-
bar, p. 84. ent objects of interest described in the
22. Westport to Galway, via Ballinrobe " Guide," the traveler will decide what he
and Headford, p. 86. prefers to see, and will know the length of
23. Westport io Leenane aTvi the Killery, time he wishes to devote to this interesting
p. 87, country,
4U
Geography. [IRELAND.] Geography.
The island of Ireland is, from point to [
Howth Head, Ben-
Point, Cahore Point,
point. 300 miles long by 200 wide on three
;
more Head, and Bengore Head. Not far
sides —
the north, west, and south —
it is from the last is the GianVs Causeway, of
:
bounded by the waters of the Atlantic, and world-wide fame, an immense promontory
on the east by the Irish Sea, which commu- formed of huge pile? of prismatic columns,
i
nicates with the Atlantic on the northeast arranged with a most perfect regularity
by the North Channel (separating Scotland side by side, and projecting more than a
«nd Ireland), 14 miles wide, and on the thousand feet into the sea.
southeast by St. George's Channel (sepa- The word lough in Ireland, like that of
]
:rating Ireland and Wales), 70 miles wide, loch in Scotland, is applied equally to salt-
|
The island possesses an area of about water inlets or to inland lakes. Of the
32,513 square miles, which presents mostly former, the principal ones on the northern
'
a level surface, the mountains being con- coast are Loughs Foyle and Swilly on the ;
fined to regions near the coasts. A great western coast, Donegal Bay, Clew Bay, Gal-
plain stretches from Galway Bay on the west waj-Bay, the Shannon's Mouth, DingleBay,
to Dublin Bay on the east, extending north- Kenmare Bay, and Bantry Bay; on the
,
ward as far as Lough Neagh, and south- south, the harbors of Cork and Waterford,
j
ward nearly to the borders of Waterford. A the former being capable of navigation by
large portion of this plain is composed of ships of the largest size and on the east,
,
;
bog-land, which is very extensive in Ire- Dublin, Dundalk, andDundrum Bays, and
land, covering about 12,500 square miles, Strangford and Belfast Loughs.
or nearly two fifths of the entire surface of No country in Europe possesses so large
the island. These bogs are of two kinds an area of fresh-water lakes, in proportion
the red and fibrous, or the black and com- to its size, as Ireland. Lough Neagh, in
—
pact and are readily susceptible of drain- the province of Ulster, is one of the three
age, as they lie in every case at some level largest in Europe, and has an area of over
above the elevation of the sea. The red 90,000 acres. The other principal lakes
bogs are the most numerous, and are found are the Corrib, Erne, Allen, Ree, Derg,
for the greater part in the central plain ;Mask, and Killarney. The last-named,
!
they are capable of being reclaimed for cul- situated in the mountains of Kerry, are
tivation, and now furnish an abundance of three in number, an Tapper, Lower, and
peat, the fuel mostly used by the people Middle Lake, covering an area of about
of Ireland. I GOOO acres, and are highly celebrated for
The mountains of Ireland, instead of form- their picturesque scenery.
ing continuous chains, stand in detached Rivers. —The principal river in Ireland,
groups at difl^erent parts of the coast, sep- as well as the largest in the United King-
arating the interior plain from the sea. dom, is the Shannon, which measures from
None of these reach to any great height, its source in the. County of Cavan, at a
the highest (Macgillicuddy's Reeks, Lake , height of 315 feet above the level of the
Killarney) attaining only an altitude of sea, to its mouth, a distance of 221 miles,
3-113 feet. They maj' be divided into six passing on its course through the lakes Al-
groups three on the eastern coast, the
: i
len, Ree, and Derg. It has been made nav-
mountains of Wicklow, Mourne, and An- ^
igable from Lough Allen to the sea, 213
trim on the northwest, the mountains of
; miles, by means of a few artificial cuts, one
Donegal on the west, the mountains of of which was made to avoid the rapids of
'
ris Head, Achill Head, Slyne Head, Loop Bandon, Lee, Blackwater, Barrow, and
Head, KeiTv Head, Dunmore Head, Mizen Suir. Of these the Barrow ranks second in
Head, Cape Clear, Carnsore Point, Greenore length and importance the Liffeyj upon
;
48
•l
r:^¥
Climate. [IRELAND]. CONVEY.VNCES.
which Dublin stands, is not navigable the except witli the greatest care and atten-
:
Athy, a distance of sixty miles, and the years, and is governed by a lord-lieutenant
latter as far as Clonniel, forty miles up the appointed by the Crown of England. Its
stream. situation, both financially and commercial-
Minerals. —
Although coal occurs in many ly, has greatly improved during the last
parts of Ireland, it is comparatively little fifteen j-^ears.
worked, being of inferior quality to that Linen is now the staple manufacture of
found in Scotland and England, and the Ireland, and, together with the well-known
principal towns being consequently sup- Irish poplins, is produced in large quanti-
plied from those countries. Peat, as before ties for foreign use. Woolens, silks, cot-
stated, is the exclusive fuel of the laboring tons, muslin, gloves, paper, and glass are
population. Iron is to be found in man}' also manufactured to a greater or less ex-
places, but is not worked, owing to the tent.
scarcity of coal while the produce of the
; Ireland is becoming well supplied with
copper and lead mines, in the counties of rai. roads, there being some twenty lines in
Cork, Kerry, and Watarford, is not consid- full operation, extending from the extreme
erable. Granite, marble, and slate also oc- north and south, and east and west. In
cur to somo extent. I ever}' direction not taken by railroads,
Mineral springs are not numerous, but good jaunting-cars may be procured at the
j
may be found at Mallow, the water of which rate of twelve cents per mile for a single
I
is saline ;at Castle Connell, near Limer- person, or sixteen cents for two. The roads
,
ick, clialybeate ;and at Swanlinbar and arc all very fine, and, to the honor of the
Lucan, sulphurous. country, no tolls. The jaunting-cars are
Climate. —
The climate of Ireland is much mostly made for the accommodation of four
!
more moist than that of England, and the persons, but there are larger ones which
temperature has a more equal sway, the serve as stage-coaches. In procuring seats,
j
extremes of heat and cold being confined be particular to inform yourself from what
I
within narrower limits. The air is at all quarter the wind is blowing, as these con-
j
times filled with moisture, Avhile the aver- veyances are uncovered, and. should the
I
age number of days upon which rain falls weather be cold or rainy, you may prefer
is greater than in any country in Europe sitting with your back to the wind. A thin
(208 days annually). The beautiful ver- water-proof coat and apron are very req-
dant aspect for which Ireland is so cele- uisite on these occasions also a strap with
;
brated is the result of tins humidity, which which to attach A-ourself to the car during
is caused by the insul-.ir situation of the the night in case you should fall asleep.
country, as well as by the prevalence of We would most decidedly recommend
westerly winds, which sweep over the isl- travelers who intend visiting Ireland and
and during three fourths of the 3'ear, leav- Scotland to disembark at Queenstown, the
ing on their way the vapors of the Atlan- harbor of Cork, visiting the celebrated lakes
tic with which they are charged. of Killarney and the wild scener}" of Con-
Ireland was formerly covered with ex- nemara. then going north through Dulv-
tensive forests, traces of which may still be lin, Belfast, and Coleraine, cross the Chan-
found in the numerous bogs, where whole nel to Glasgow, visit the principal places
trunks of trees are often discovered. These in Scotland, and afterward work up to Lon-
forests, however, have now almost entire- don, visiting the principal objects of inter-
ly been cut down, and wood is compara- est on their way.
tively scarce. Plants and animals are After being landed by the tug which
mostly similar to those found in Great meets the steamer to take off passengers
Britain, but fruits, such as peaches, grapes, and mails, proceed at once to the railway
etc., do not ripen as in other countries, for Cork — —
only twelve miles distant and
Vol. I.— C 49
QUEEXSTOWN. [IRELAND.] Cork.
go to the Imperial Hotel. Trains leave da and Cloyne, where travelers who have
Queenstown for Cork about every hour; time to spare can visit the Castle of Rostel-
time, 20 m. lan, the fonner residence of the princely
O'Briens, marquesses of Thomond. In the
Queenstown was formerly called the "Cove modern residence, which is beautifully sit-
of Cork," but its name was changed in uated at the eastern end of the harbor, is
honor of Queen Victoria, who landed here kept the ancient sword of the famous Bri-
when making her visit to Ireland in 1849. an Boroihme, who was an ancestor of the
Population 10,340. It is six miles dis- O'Briens. The grounds are very beauti-
tant from Cork, for which city it forms one ful, and visitors are freely admitted. A
of the linest harbors in the United King- visit should be made to Castle Mary., the
dom, or even in the world. The entire residence of Mr. Longfield, where may be
navies of Europe could float in it with seen one of those Druidical remains pe-
complete protection from the weather on culiar to Ireland, and known as " Crom-
everv side. The entrance is admirably lechs," supposed by some to have been used
defended by two forts, one on either side as sepulchral monuments, and by others
of the channel. There is also the West- for sacrificial purposes. There ^re two
moreland Fort on Spike's Island, which cromlechs on this estate the larger one is
:
contains a convict prison ; the inmates, a stone fifteen feet long, eight broad, and
numbering nearly one thousand, are kept three thick, one end resting on the ground
continually at work on the forts. An or- and the other supported by t>vo upright
der from the governor is required by trav- stones ; the smaller one is of a triangular
elers wishing to visit the island. Rocky shape, and of the same inclination. It is
Island contains the gunpowder, ten thou- supposetl the inclined position was given
sand barrels of which arc kept in cham- that the blood of the victims slain upon
bers excavated out of the solid rock. An them might run oflF freely. There are
order from the commandant of ordnance some to be seen in Wales, and, as in Ire-
^s required to visit this island. Hawlbow- land, they are generally seen near the sea.
Vme Island contains a tank capable of Cloyne., about one mile from Castle Ma-
lioldin^ five thousand tuns of fresh water. ry, is noted for its ancient cathedral of the
No order necessary here. The harbor of ]4th century, and its round tower, one of
Cork is noted principally for its beautiful the antiquities of Ireland, which was used
scenory, and the town is becoming quite for the double purpose of a belfry and for
important as a watering-place on account safet}' and defense. The height of this
of the salubrity and equality' of the climate. tower is one hundred feet, but the embat-
The harbor is also celebrated for the num- tlements, which are ten feet high, are mod-
ber of regattas Avhich take place annualh^ ern.
The splendid In man line of steamers are
arriving and departing four times a week
ROUTE No. 1.
for New York. To the west of the town Qaeenstowrt. to Cork, and excursions in tJie
there is a beautiful promenade formed from vicinity.
a substantial quay erected in 1848. It was The distance from Queenstown to Cork
into this harbor that Admiral Drake, of the is twelve miles, and may be performed
British navy, retreated when chased by the either direct by rail, or by steamer, call-
Spaniards; then into ''Drake's Pool," up ing at Monkstown, Passage, and Blackrock.
a creek called Crosshaven, where he was so The distance may be done ity rail in twen-
effectually hidden that the Spaniards, after ty minutes, while the steamer requires an
several days' search, gave him up in de- hour. As the railroad runs parallel with
spair, thinking he must have reached the and near the river, no
advantages of scen-
Channel again by magic. ery are lost by taking the quicker route.
Steamers leave Queenstown several times Corh is a city of ancient origin, dating
per day for Cork. Although the scenery back to the ninth century, when the Danes
is very beautiful on the river, we advise invaded and held it in possession until it
taking the cars, which leave nearly every was taken by the English imder Henry II.
hour for Cork. in the twelfth century. It was then under
Steamers sail three times a day to Agha- the rule of Dermot M'
Car thy, prince of
50
CORtC
Cork. [IRELAND.] Cork.
Desmond. For several centuries the in- church. The Church of the Tlohj Trinity is
vaders were greatly harassed by the neigh- a handsome Gothic luiilding, interesting
boring chiefs, and in theii- turn retaliated from the fact that it was fuunck'd by Father
on the surrounding country. During the Mathew,the temperance apostle, whose vis-
wars of the Protectorate, 1G49, Cork took it to the United States many of our travel-
the side of the ill-fated Charles, but was ers must remember, and whom all must
surprised and captured. The cruelties then revere, not only for the good he has done
perpetrated by Cromwell upon the poor in his native country, but also in our own.
citizens are almost unparalleled in the an- (We have noticed in traveling through Ire-
nals of warfare. It was again besieged for land that the most careful drivers, and
five davs bv Marlborough in the reign of those in whom their emplf)yers have the
William III. i^raatest coniidence, are disciples of Father
IMathew, and have drank neither ale nor
spirits for twenty j'ears.) The church con-
Cork contains at the present time 78,642 tains a finely-stained glass window, as a
inhabitants. The principal hotel, and the memorial to Daniel O'Connell. A fine
best in the south of Ireland, is the Im- monument has recently been erected to
2)erial, finely conducted by a\Ir. Curry. Father Mathew in St. Patrick Street. The
Attached to the house are the City Read- interior of the Roman Catholic church of
ing-rooms, to which visitors at the ho- St. ^far^/'s is very beautiful. There is also
tel are freely admitted. The city is situ- a church built in honor of St. Patrick. The
ated on both banks of the River Lee, which Citi/ Jail and County Prison are both very
is crossed by nine bridges, all of mod- fine buildings, the former built of limestone
ern construction and elegant architecture. and the latter of red sandstone. On the
The principal streets and suburbs are well southern side of the Lee, on a fine, eleva-
paved and lighted, but the back and nar- ted position, is situated the l)eautiful build-
—
row streets are generally in a poor condi- ing built for Queen's College seen to an ad-
tion. It was formerly the second city in vantage on the way to visit Blarney Castle.
Ireland in size and commerce, but Belfast Cork, if it had not its Victoria Park of
novi' takes that place. There arc no man- 140 acres, would, in a great measure, be
ufactures of importance in Cork, but its supplied with one by its contiguity to the
breweries, distilleries, tanneries, and found- Groves of Blarney, and its lovely surround-
cries do a large business, while its expert ings. The citizens also have a very beau-
to England of corn, provisions, and live- tifulwalk bordering the river, called the
stock is considerable. A large business in Mardyke, which is about one mile long, and
the butter-trade is also carried on. The shaded by fine elm-trees, whicli form a
principal public buildings of Cork are the beautiful arch overhead; when lighted at
small cathedral church of St. Finbar, which night, itpresents a very charming appear-
is unworthy the reputation of Cork, with ance. It was in Cork that "William Penn
the exception of the tower, which is an- became a convert to Quakerism. He was
cient. It was built in 1735. It is, how- visiting the city on business relating to his
ever, soon to be replaced by a new cathe- father's property when he was converted.
dral. Near it are the bishop's palace, and Cork must ever be a place of great resort
cemetery. At the Avestern end of the Grand to travelers, if only, for its contiguity to
Parade is the court-house, which is much Blarney Castle and the "Groves of Blar-
admired for its graceful appearance. The ney," which arc situated some six miles
Church of St. Anne is remarkable for its from the city. There are two roads by
magnificent position, commanding as it which to reach the castle in addition to the
d(X!s a fine view of the whole city. Its bells railway but as the last sets you down
;
are one of the " lions'' of the city. Its ap- over a mile from the castle, we would ad-
pearance is very picturesque and very droll, vise taking a carriage or car from the Im-
one side built of difi'erent colored stone from perial Hotel, and drive by the Sunday's
the other. It is built in stories. James II. Well Road and Blarney Lane, which winds
heard mass here during his residence in nearly all the way along the banks of the
Cork. On the northern side of the river lovely silver Lee, embracingcx(iuisito view/
there is a verv beautiful PreshA terian of Queen's College, the beautiful L'rounif
51
Blarney. [IRELAND.] Blarney.
of Blackrock. and richly clothed heights of ;
but in former ages the peasantrj' firmly
Glenmire. Distance five miles price of a :
believed in its virtue, and the word " Blar-
car, 3s. Qd. Do not allow your driver to ney" has become of world-wide celebrity.
return by the short and much less pleasing The "Groves of Blarn^-." which adjoin
route of Blackpool and the northern sub- the castle, are still very beautiful. It is
urbs. Carriages may be hired from Mr. said they were formerly adorned with stat-
Curry, Imperial Hotel. The noted cas- and bridges al-
ues, grottoes, fountains, ;
tle of Blarney was long the residence of the though these have disappeared, we still
younger branch of the royal race of M'Car- have the
thy, by whom it Avas erected in the 15th " r; ravel-walk? there
century. The ruins consist of a dungeon For specubition
120 feet high, with other lower remains less And conversation." .
massive, but still so strong as to have ren- Croker, in his "Songs of Ireland, " wrote
dered it impregnable before the introduc- of them thus :
ney Stone," which is said to endow the per- The old woman who has charge of the
son who kisses it with such persuasive castle, and the old man who unlocks the
eloquence, such an irresistible wheedling beauties of the "Groves," each expect a
tongue, that no lady can resist him hence shilling ;
sixpence to the woman at the
;
C n-ihi fort'is mi fori ftcif, 1-146;" but, for from the bottom of the lake to graze on the
the accommodation of travelers, as this bordering pastures Blarney Castle is the !
stone is mostly inaccessible, there is anoth- property of Sir G. Colthurst, M.P., and is
er kept on the floor of the first apartment freely opened to the public.
you enter, which you will be assured has About two miles from the castle is the
the same virtue as the other we think, in celebrated hydropathic establishment of
:
this one respect the guide may be implicit- Dr. Barter, where the first of the Turkish
ly believed! Iv is very difficult to tell Baths, now to be found in all parts of
whence came the reputation of this stone, Great Britain, was erected in 1844.
52
KiNSALE. [IRELAND.] BAtCi^OX.
above the other on the slope of Compass cient bridge, composed of several small
Hill, giving the place a very pretty ap- arches, crosses the river leading to Bally-
pearance from a little distance. It is a money. Proceeding along the banks of
place of considerable historic importance, the river, tlirough scenery of unsurpassed
being one of the oldest towns in Ireland. loveliners, we pass the Castle of Bullina-
Population G-101. During the wars of the carrig, a former stronghold of the O'Hur-
Protectorate it was one of the first to de- leys, reduced to its present ruined condi-
clare in favor of Cromwell, and was su!)- tion in the time of Cromwell. The in-
sequently the scene of several important terior contains some curious carvings and
engagements. At the beginning of the inscriptions,
seventeenth century it was held f( r some Dunmamvay (population 2044) is a thriv-
time by a force of Spaniards, who landed ing village, lying at the foot of the hills
here to aid the insurgents, and who were which separate the Bandon valley from that
expelled with the greatest difficulty. Al- of the Lee, The railroad now ends here,
mo.->t nothing remains of the old walls and but will eventually extend to Drimoleague,
fortifications; on the -western side of the seven miles nearer to Bantry. At the pres-
harbor stand the ruins of the old fortress ent time cars and coaches, in connection
of Castlennpack and of Ringrove Castle, with the company, run from here to Ban-
the seat of the De Courcys. To the south try. The road passes over bleak and bar-
of the town, at the extremity of a promon- ren country utterly uninteresting to the
tory which projects three miles into tlie traveler, until passing through a deep
sea, stands the light-house, 243 feet high, gorge the Bay of Bantry suddenly uursts
which is one of the first object-^ seen by our upon his view. At the iie-.d of the ba^
countrymen on arriving at Qiieenstown. lies the town, while facing it stands WhiiUly
The li;:ht from here is visible in clear Island^ crowned with an imposing fort:
53
Bantrt. [IRELAND.] Macbook.
Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the Cahir long the struggle, for which he was hung
!
This bay has twice been selected by the Seven miles more we pass the ruins of
i
Frencli for their descents on the Irish Mashanaglas Castle, built by Owen M'Le-
j
coast once in 1689, -when an engagement viney, and one mile more to Macroon, the
:
|
took place here between the French fleet terminus of the railway. Population 3193.
and Admiral Herbert, ending to the ad- The Queen's Hotel is the best. The town is
j
vantage of the former and again in 1796, prettily situated in the valley of the Sallur.e.
; :
when they appeared off the coast with a Its only object of attraction is its castle,
^
fleet manned bv 15.000 men, but which was which must be highly interesting to all
dispersed b}' a severe storm. Pennsylvanians as being the birthplace of
— j
Bantry. Hotels, Zarenm'5 and Godson's. Admiral Penn, father of William Penn, who
(The coach stops at the first of these was born inside its walls. It was erected in
bouses.) Population 2421. the reign of King John, and was destroyed
The town is small, and contains little several times in the 17th century. The
of interest, unless we except Seacourt, the distance from Macrcon to Killarney by
j
seat of the Earl of Bantry, a very beauti- Kenmare direct is fifty miles, and to Ban-
ful place, which should be visited if you try by Inchigeela thirty-four. Before ar-
have time. The ruins of a Franciscan riving at the lakes of Inchigeela we pass,
;
friary, founded by an O'Sullivan in 1466, on our left, the Castle Masters, one of the
:
may be seen within the demesne, together strongholds of the O'Learys. The lakes
with the extensive cemetery- attached. of Inchigeela are formed by the expansion
of the River Lee, and present a panorama
of most lovely scenery. On an island in
one of these lakes is a ruin called the Her-
mitage of St. Finnbar, where there is a
holy well, which in former times was held
in high reverence by the inhabitants, and
was a place of pilgrimage for the peasant-
ry, who believed its waters were a sure
cure for all the that flesh is heir to.
ills
enters the charming valley of GlengarifF, the ruins of Mourne Abbey, near the village
so justly admired by travelers. Giengariff of Ballinamona, and soon reacli the town
is the name of an indentation of coast in of Mallou- (population 416o), formerly a wa-
the northwestern part of liantry Bay, and tering-place of considerable notoriety. It is
of a small river of wluch this harbor is the situated on the left bank of the Blackwa-
mouth. Aday or two might easily be ter River, and is clean and well built, the
spent in the town (Hotels, Roijal and Ban- medieval aspect of building predominating.
try Arms) for the better enjoyment of the There is a good spa-house, library, and read-
beauties of the surrounding country-. Glen- ing-room. This town formed part of the
gariff Castle, the property of K. II. White, territory of the Earl of Desmond, and was
Esq., should by all means be visited the — granted b}' Queen Elizabeth to Sir D. Nor-
grounds l)eing freely opened to travelers. reys after the earl's attainder. The castle
Cromwell's Bridge, erected hy the Protect- is a modern Elizabethan edifice, situated on
or when in pursuit of the O'Sullivans, is a the bank of the Blackwater River, near the
very interesting ruin, standing on the old east end of the town. The square tower,
Bearhaven road. the onh' remaining portion of the old for-
Tiie road from Glengariff to Kenmare tress, stands within the grounds.
(population 1205) is mostly cut through the At Mallow the Killarney Junction Rail-
solid rock, and is noted for its wild and rug- way turns off to the right, passing at a short
ged beauty distance 16 miles. The town is
; distance the ruins of Dromanecn Castle ^
entered by a beautiful suspension bridge 470 farther on to the left stands another ruin
feet in length. Principal hotel, Lansdncne crowning the summit of Gazabo Hill, while
Arms. Kenmare is a small, neat town be- at Kanturk we pass an unfinished castle
longing to the Marquis of Lansdowne good ;
commenced by tlie Macarthys during the
salmon-fishing may be had in the vicinity. reign of Elizabeth. Its building was inter-
The views on the road from here to Kil- rupted by order of the Queen, on the ground
larney (20 miles) may be truly styled most that it might prove detrimental to the state.
magnificent at the highest point on the
; The train next enters the glen formed by
way the view embraces the three lakes
'
ROUTE No. 4.
Jo Lisn^.ore and Fernioy by post-car, and at of it to jMr. Boyle, author and philosopher,
Fcrmoy taking the train to Mallow Junc- in 1602. From this Boyle, who was cre-
tion, and thence to Cork. ated Earl of Cork, was descended the lady
The situation of Youghal, on the side of who married the fourth Duke of Devon-
a hill overlooking the mouth of the Black- shire, and who inherited all the estates, so
water, is exceedingly beautiful and pictur- tliat the present owner of Chatsworth, the
esque. Population 6081. The town (^De- most beautiful residence in England, is also
vonshire Arms) contains several objects of the owner of this delightful district.
interest to the traveler, among others the Youghal has greatly improved during
house occupied by Sir NN'alter Raleigh when the last ten years. New buildings have
living here as magistrate in 1588, and the in many places replaced most dilapidated
Collegiate Church of St. Mary, one of the predecessors, and every attempt is being
many ancient religious foundations abound- made for infusing commercial activity, and
ing in this neighborhood. This church, for transforming the toAvn into an attract-
founded in the loth century, is situated ive watering-place, for which it already pos-
on the side of a precipitous slope thickly sesses, in the shape of a natural resource, a
overgrown with trees, on the summit of good sandy beach excellently adapted to
which a portion of the ancient walls of the sea-bathing.
town are still standing, surmounted b}' five Those fond of inspecting antiquities
of the cannon formerly belonging to the should make an excursion to Ardmore, five
old fort of Youghal. The church, although miles distant from Youghal, before proceed-
small, is very beautiful ; it is built in the ing up the Blackwater. These antiquities
early pointed style of architecture, and in consist of a round tOAver, cathedral, oratory,
the form of a Latin cross. It contains sev- church, and well, all bearing the name of
eral curious monuments, coffin-lids bearing St. Decian — a missionary born in the be-
Norman -French inscriptions, and in the ginning of the 6th century of noble family
north aisle a peculiar wooden cradle, where who founded here a seminary for the pur-
the sword of the corporation was formerly pose of diffusing Christianity far and wide,
placed. In this aisle may also be seen the and Avhose influence is said to have soon
tomb and recumbent figure of Thomas, extended over all parts of Ireland. The
eighth Earl of Desmond, Lord-deputy of most ancient part of the cathedral is tho
Ireland, who founded in 1464 " Our Lady's choir, which is separated from the nave bj'
College of Youghal," situated by the side a beautiful pointed arch. In the interior
of the church. Of this building there is are two Ogham stones, discovered in 1854
hardly a remainir j vestige, a new house -55, on one of which is the inscription,
having been built on the site in 1782. Both " Lughndh died on the sea on a day he
college and church were desecrated in 1579 was a -fishing, and is entombed in the
Vjy the rebellious Earl of Desmond. grave's sanctuary."
1 he Warden's House, celebrated as the In the church-yard stands a round tow-
residence of Sir Walter Raleigh (1588-80), er of five stories, ninety feet in height. At
and where he entertained Spenser Avhile the top are four windows facing the cardi-
that poet was preparing his " Faerie nal points the bell which hung here is said
:
Queene " for publication, is situated to the to have been heard at a distance of eight
north of the church it is built in the old miles, so strong was its tone.
;
Tavo skel-
English style of architecture, and dates from etons were discovered at the base of this
the 15th century. Some of the room.s are tower during some excavations, Avhich haa
56
Cl ACKWATER. [IRELAND.] LlSMORK
led to the belief that the round towers were I many deeds of cruelty were enacted :a
{generally used as places of seimlture. St. I
large hole may still lie seen through which
Declan's Oratory is the most ancient of all i the victims of tlie castles owner were
the buildings ; it is a small hut fourteen
^
thrown into the river. After passing Vil-
feet long, with side walls projecting a little ,
lierston, we arrive at Dromana, the seat
beyond the roof. The lintel of the door- |
of Lord de Decies. Behind the modern
way, now blocked up by eartli, is formed mansion are the remains of a fine old cas-
of a single stone. St. Declan's Well is sit- tle, another of the residences of the once
uated on a steep cliff overhanging the sea. powerful Desmonds. Here the cherry-tree
At the festival of St. Dcclan, held on the was first introduced from the Canary Isles
24th of July, the peasantry tiock here from by Sir Walter Raleigh, and the death of
[
all parts of the neighborhood, and perform tlie famous Countess of Desmond (who
penance by creeping under a huge Ijoulder i
presented a petition to James I. at the En-
called St. Declan's stone, by which act they [
glish court when 140 years of age) was oc-
are supposed to benefit their physical health casioned by a fall from the branch of one
as well as their spiritual condition. of these trees (?). Climbing cherrj'-trees
Ardmore is reached by crossing the riv- seems to be rather a juvenile amusement
er at Ferry Point from Youghal, and there for an old lady of 140 but the story is in
;
passes unde' an immense timber bridge, the on the north bank of the river, and a few
largest of its kind in Ireland. It crosses days might well be spent here (Po?f(rs\<?),
the river about a mile and a half from the if the traveler have plenty of leisure. rof>-
town, and is upheld by fifty-seven sets of ulation 152G. Four miles from the town
piers ; its length is 1787 feet, which, with a is the Trapjjist Convent of Melleray, an
causeway 1500 feet long with which it is con- order of ]\Iount St. Bernard. The build-
nected, makes a total of 3287 feet. AVe next ing, although a plain one in exterior, being
pass on the left the ruins cf Khincrew Ab- built of stones picked up by the monks on
bey, situated on the summit of a hill bear- the surrounding e>tate,C(int;iins a fine chap-
ing the same name. This abbey was found- el, with a beautiful stained-glass window.
ed by Kaymond Ic Gros, and was once a A large tract of barren land, granted to
preceptory of Templars. The view from the brotherhood by Sir R. Keane, whose
here is delightful. Farther on we notice seat, Cappoquin House, lies in the immedi«
the ruins of Temjile ]Michael Castle, dating ate neighborhood, has been entirely re-
from the 14th century, and reduced to its claimed by the labors of the mi nks, who
present dilapidated condition by the forces succeed in feeding and clothing themselves
of Cromwell. We next pass Ballinatry, the from the produce, and also in admini^tel-
be.uitiful modern residence of the Hon. C. ing largely to the wants of the poor of the
Smyth in the grounds are the ruins of the
; vicinit}'. The rule of perfect silence is al-
Alibey of INIolano, founded in the Gth cent- lowed to be broken by one of the monks
ury, said to contain the remains of Ray- in favor of visitors, who are always mott
mond le Ciros,the companion of Strongbow. politely received.
Among some fine paintings possessed by From Cappoquin to Lismore the route :.s
Mr. Smyth, one of great interest is a full- performed by mail-car, through most beau-
length portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh, by tiful scenery, in about three quarters of an
Zucch.M-o. After passing Cherrymount, hour. The cars leave at 10.45 A.M. and
I,ougl;tane, ami Clashmore House, the last 5.15 P.M., on week days only.
the property of tlie Earl of Huntingdon, wo LisDiore, one of the most ancient towns
reach the ruins of Strancally Castle, one of Ireland, contains a population of I'.MG.
of tile many strongholds of the Desmonds. It was the seat of one of the four uni-
They stand on a cliff rising almost perpen- versities existing in Ireland in the 7tl.
dicularly out of the water, with a cavern century, which was destroyed by the Scan-
underneath (laid bare when the castle was dinavians, after repeated attacks, in 830,
blown up by order of the English govern- when the collegiate buildings were plun-
ment), formerly used as a prison, where dered and burned. A
fortress was erected
'Vol. !._(' 2 57
Fermoy. [IRELAND.] MiTCHELLSTOWN.
hereby King John in 1185, -which afterward moy, and occupying both banks of the
I
became and remained the residence of the river, are the park and plantations of Cas-
;
bishops of the diocese imtil 1589, when it tle Hyde, within which the ruins of Cregg
|
was granted to Sir A^'alte^ Kaleigh. It be- Castle may be seen. Convamore, the seat
i
came the property of the Duke of Devon- of the Earl of Listowel, lies five miles from
shire (by marriage) in 1753, together with Fermoy on the north bank of the river;
\
the other estates of the Earl of Cork. the park contains the ruins of Ballyhooley
The castle, mostly built by the second ,
Castle, once a fortress of the Roches. Glan-
Earl of Cork, stands on the summit of a j
worth Castle, the ancient seat of the Roches,
cliflF overlooking the Blackwater, and is is situated on a rocky eminence overlooking
j
shown to visitors by the housekeeper on the Funcheon, and close by the village of
sending in their cards. The interior of ! Glanworth. The road to this village from
the castle is most beautifully decorated, Fermoy runs through the beautiful valley
and the views from the Avindows very fine, of the Funcheon, and passes a curious al-
especially from the tapestried room, called tar of the Druids, called the Hag's Bed.
after James II., when that monarch was A holy well is situated under the walls of
entertained in 1690, and when, on entering Glanworth Castle, while not far distant are
the room, he started back affrighted at the the remains of a Dominican abbey found-
view of the great depth at which the river !
the gateway of the castle, and under the i famous stalactite caverns. The distance
jirchway two spaces are visible, made to \
to Mitchellstown is eight miles, and from
accommodate two horsemen, who mounted \
there to the caverns seven miles. The
guard in ancient times in front of the first caves bear the same name as the town,
doorway, giving it the name of Riding from their having formed part of the same
House. A fine bridge, erected by the late estate until 1851. The road from Fermoy
Duke of Devonshire, crosses the Blackwa- crosses the valley of the Funcheon and
ter just below the castle ;near to it stands passes over the Kilworth Hills. The vil-
the cathedral, approached from the town lage of Kilworth forms part of the Moore
through a beautiful avenue of trees. This Park estate, within which lie the ruins of
building, restored by the Earl of Cork in Cloghlea Castle. The ruins of Caherdriney
1663, has since had many additions, and is Castle, placed on the summit of the Kil-
well worth a visit. The stained windows worth Hills, are seen for some time before
of the choir, the oak carvings, and the Nor- reaching Mitchellstown.
man arch which forms the entrance, arc all Mitchellsfoini, situated in a most beauti-
vf^ry fine. ful countrs", and surrounded by mountain
The distance from Lismore to Fermoy ranges, was formerly the property of the
may be performed by rail in three quarters Earl of Kingston. Population 2743. It
of an hour. contains the finest modern castle in Ireland,
Fermoy lies about 20 miles to the north- built in 1823. The interior will be shown
east of Cork, and 17 miles from Mallow to any visitor sending in his card, while
Junction, and contains 7388 inhabitants. admission to the park may be obtained by
It is a flourishing town, mostly situated on application at the gate.
the southern bank of the Blackwater, and The road to the caves runs through the
is one of the largest military stations in long valley formed by the Galtee ]Mount-
Ireland. This prosperity is chiefly owing ains on the north, and the Kilworth and
to a Mr. Anderson, a barrack contractor, Knockmeledown Mountains on the south,
who built here two barracks on the north and passes through the village of Kilbo-
side of the river, capable of accommodating henny. A mile farther on is the Mountain
8000 men, as Avell as a hotel, a military Lodge, formei'ly belonging to the Earl of
school, and several houses. The Black- Kingston, but now, together with its rich
water is crossed here by a fine stone bridge plantation, the property of the Irish Land
supported b}'^ 13 arches, also planned by Company. The caves are situated in two
Mr. Anderson. About a mile above Fer- small, round hills of gray limestone; in
58
THE LAKES or KtlXATi yEY
i r,
KlLLARNEY. [IRELAND.] KlLLARNEV.
the most westerly of these is the old cave,
now seldom visited, but known for many
years before the discovery of the larger and
more interesting one in Ib'od. 'I'he entrance
to the new cave lies midway up the more
eastern hill at a i)ul)lic-house, about a mile
;
Gap of Dunloe is one of the most celebrated Tore, or Middle Lake, the most beautiful.
places in Ireland. It is a narrow and Thackeray, in his Irish Sketch-look, says,
gloomy defile, four miles in length, through Avhen asked about the Tore Lake, " When
which you must either walk or ride on there, Ave agreed that it Avas more beautiful
horseback, the carriage-road ending at the than the large lake, of which it is not one
entrance to the pass. Huge masses of over- fourth the size ; then, when
came back, Ave
hanging rock darken the course of a small Ave said No, the large lake is the most
'
stream, called the Roe, which traverses the beautiful;' and so, at eA-ery point we stoj)-
whole distance of the gap. At different ped at. Ave determined that that peculiar
points small cannon are fired off by the na- spot Avas the prettiest in the Avhole lake.
tives, which produce a fine effect. As pow- The fact is, and I don't care to OAvn it, tlioy
der costs something, a small fee is expected. are too handsome. As for a mancoming
At some points the height of the surround- from his desk in London or Dublin, and
ing rocks (Macgillicudd3''s Reeks) is 3414 seeing the whole lakes in a day, he is an
feet, and a greater portion of the pass is ass for his p:iins. A child doing a sum in
through a chasm, the precipitous rocks ris- addition might as well read the Avliole mul-
ing on either hand over two thousand feet. tiplication table and fancy he had it by
The Roe, during its downward course, ex- heart."
pands into several small lakes, into one of After passing M'Carthy's Island (so
which the author of the Colleen Bawn threw called from the fact that one of tlie Ir.st
his heroine. Emerging from the pass, Ave chiefs of that race took refuge here) and
come in sight of the gloomy amphitheatre Arbutus Island, the largest in the L'jiper
called the Black Valley, Avhich, Kohl saj's, Lake, Avhere the beautiful arbutus-tree, in-
" had there been at the bottom, among the digenous to Killarney, grows to perfection,
rugged masses of black rock, some smoke Ave enter a long strip of AA^ater, called the
and flame instead of water, we might have Long Range, Avhich is nearly five miles in
imagined we were looking into the entrance length, and connects the Upper with the
ofthe infernal regions." Followingtheroad iliddle of Tore Lake, and Avhich present:;
which winds down the mountain, we arrive some Ijeautiful scenery. After passing
at the Hon. Mr. Herbert's cottage, where Coleman's Eye, a curious promontory, wc
your boat is in waiting. Previous to en- arrive at tho E.igle's Nest, a rugged, pre-
tering the grounds a toll is exacted at cipitous rock, OA'or one thousand feet high,
the gate double if you take your horse
;
remarkable for its fine echo, Avhich the
through. Be careful you are not torn to boatmen Avill awaken for tlio amusement
])ieces by l)eggars, guides, and other nui- of the traveler. About a milo farther avc
sances, which infest this spot. The author, arrive at the antiquated structure called
at the time of his last visit here, had his the Old Weir Bridge, under Avhich the boat
leg nearly broken by a kicking horse, is carried by the current with remarkable
which his owner stood in the pathway be- velocitA''. We
noAV an-ivo in still water v^
cause he could not hire hini to us for two a most lovely spot, called the Meeting of
shillings when we Avere already mounted the Waters, Avhere the picturesque Dinish
on one for Avhich Ave had paid fiA'e. Un- Island divides the stream. This spot is
fortunately, our stick broke at the first blow said to have been Avarmh' admired by Sir
over the scoundrel's head. Embarking on Walter Scott Avhen he A'isited the lakes.
board the boat, the traveler has now an op- On Dinish Island there is a fine cottage,
portunity of refreshing liimself by a lunch, Avhere arrangements may be made before
which should be sent bj"^ the boat, while you leave the hotel for dinner to be serA'ed
the oarsmen pull liim doAvn the Upper Lake, awaiting your arriA'al. The shores of the
which is tAvo and a half miles in length. ^Middle Lake are covered Avith beautiful
This lake is considered by mauA"^ as the trees, Passin-' und^r tne Unckcen Bridge,
60
KlLLAHNEY. [IRELAND.] KiLLARNEY.
Ave enter Lough Leane, or Lesser Lake, be seen the tomb of ]M' Car thy More ; also
which miles long by three
is five broad. that of O'Donoghue More. A fee is expect-
It contains some thirt}' islands, the princi- —
ed by the custodian perhaps a shilling for
pal of which arc Ross, Rabbit, ami Innis- a party. The mansion of 31 r. Herbert, a
fallen. These are all very bciiutiful, but short distance from the abbey, is a beautiful
the last named surpassingly lovely.
is It building, in the Elizabethan style of archi-
is covered with the ruins of an ancient ab- tecture. The grounds are very tastefully ar-
bey, supposed to have been founded by St. ranged, through which tu'^ traveler will pro-
Finian in (300. It was on this i.-land the ceed in making the tour to tue Tore water-
c?L'!>iat:'d ''Annals of Inuisfallcn," now fall, which is situated between the Tore and
in the Bodleian Library, I>Ln;^land, were Mangerton Mountains. This is u very fine
conijjosed. Every variety of scenery one cascade, formed by different streams of wa-
could wish for may be found in this small ter issuing from the sides of the Clanger-
island — the magnificent oak, in all its ton Mountain, which unite a short distance
luxuriant growth, beautifi'.l glades, and aljove the fall, and, bounding over a ledge
velvet lawns. The poet I^Ioovc fully ap- of rocks, fall nearly perpendicularly a dis-
preciated the spot tance of sixty feet into a chasm most pict-
uresquely clothed on either side with bjau-
''Sweet InnisfalU'u, faro thco v.-cll.
Mav calm aud sinislunc lonj; l)u thine tiful firs. On your way from or going to
lliw fair thou art let others tell, Muckross, drive through the grounds of the
While but to feel how fair In; mine. Earl of Kenmare (visitors at the different
" Sweet lanis^fallen, long shall dwell hotels have this privilege) to Ross Island
In memory'd dream that niinny r-mile
Which o'er thes on that evening fell and Castle. This island is situated on the
When first I saw thy fairy isle." eastern shore of the lake, and can hardly
About a mile and a half from Innisfal- be called an island, as it is separated from
the main land l)y a dike not over twelve
len, near the base of the mountains called
the Toomies, a path leads to O'Sullivan's feet wide. It is planted with beautiful
Cascade, which consists of two distinct trees and intersected with lovely walks.
falls ; the highest is about twent}' feet, the The views of the lakes from some points
second nearly the same. Beneath an over- on this island are as lovely as ever eye
hanging rock over the lowest basin is a rested upon. We understand Mr. Barney
small grotto, with a seat in the rock, whence Williams, the comedian, of New York, of-
the view of the fall is particularly beauti- fered the Earl of Kenmare fifty thousand
ful. Retracing our steps to the boat, we dollars for two acros on this inland, but was
visit thaBay of Glena, from which point refused. If we were the carl we would
the view of the lake is truly charming. not take five times fifty for it. It would
Lady Kenmare has here a lovely little cot- really be difficult to find a more heavenly
tage, and close by there is another, where spot. A drive may now be taken to the
the salmon of Lough Leane, broiled over ruins of Aghadoe, which is one of the fin.- st
an arbutus fire, or roasted on skewers, group of ruins in Ireland they consi>t of
;
may be tasted in all its perfection. The a cathedral, ruined tower, and castk', the
arbutus wood gives a peculiar liavor and latter inclosed by a fosse and ramparts.
aroma to the fish. The town of Killarney contains about
About three miles from the Victoria Ho- 7000 inhabitants, and derives its sole im-
tel are the ruins of Muckross Abbey, which portance and celebrity from its immediate
was founded in 1440. They are situated in proximity to the lakes. It was formerly
the grounds of the Hon. Mr, Herbert, who noted for its uncleanliness, but of late years
is member of Parliament for this county. it has much improved in that respect. The
The cloisters of the abbey surmount a new cathedral is a very handsome build-
court-yard, in the midst of which stands ing, with fine stained-glass windows.
an immense yew-tree of great ago, and Tourists fond of steep ascents should
measuring twelve feet in circumference. not neglect the view to be obtained from
In the church are the tombs of many of Carrantual, one of the range called Macgil-
Ireland's greatest chiefs, and several of licuddy's Reeks, and the highest mountain
the kings of Munster arc said to have been in Ireland, rising to an elevation of o414
buried liere. In the centre of the choir may feet. This excursion will require a wholo
61
Tralee. [IRELAND.] BUTTEVANT.
day, and should not be attempted without land, and contains 9506 inhabitants (1871).
a guide (to be obtained at Dunloe, price Hotel, BlennerJiasset Arms. There is lit-
3s. 6'i.). Although there arc several routes tlehere to interest the traveler, unless we
to the top, the one generally selected is except the ancient church of Batass, built
from the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe; of red sandstone, which would afford some
and as the ascent must be made on foot, it pleasure to the arcbajologist.
would be as well to decide before starting
on the return route, and have a car or boat
in waiting to reach the hotel. The return
may be made either by tlie Dunloe and
the summit is somewhere between seven Cork to Limerick, via Kilmallock. Time,
and eight miles. After passing Drumrourk 4 hours 45 minutes.
Hill in the ascent (which should also be This route has already been described
visited for the fine view it commands of as far as Mallow (see Route No. 4).
the Lower Lake), we reach the Devil's Seven miles from Mallow Junction the
Punch Bowl, a sequestered lake, situated train, after passing Castletown-Roche, con-
at an elevation of 2206 feet. High cliffs taining a ruined castle, the ancient seat of
shut in on three sides this piece of water, the Roches, reaches Buttevant, formerly
which is said to contain no fish, and never called Bothon, from the cry " Boutez en
to freeze. The stream which flow^s from used by David de Barry when urg-
avant,''''
it forms in the lower part of its course ing on his men in a conflict with the
the Tore Cascade, and certain!}^ abounds M'Carthys. Population 1756. Among
in excellent trout. About a mile from j
the interesting objects to be seen in this
these falls the summit of the mountain is town we notice the Franciscan abbey,
reached. founded by David de Barry, lord chief
Descending the mountain to about a justice of Ireland, in the 13th century.
mile below the lake, and turning to the The nave and choir alone remain; in a
right, we enter Glenacapput, a rock}' pass chapel opening out from the former lie
between Mangerton and Strompa. This the remains of the Barrys, Butlers, and
glen is two miles in length, and contains Fitzgeralds. Notice also in the town a
three small lakes the scenery is most
; square tow^er, all that remains of a castle
grand, but it should never be visited with- '
ed by the railroad, which, leaving behind supposed to belong to the reign of Edward
the rich and luxuriant plains of the Gold- '
contains many antiquities to interest the chamber, and covered with large flags.
traveler. Population 1152. Although Here also is a cromlech with four sup-
this town is supposed to have existed at a ports, and two very curious circular forts.
very early date, and derives its name from On an island in the lake, and connected
St. Molach. who founded a church here in with the mainland by a causeway, are the
the seventh century, it did not receive a ruins of a castle, formerly a fortress of the
charter until the reign of Edward III. It Geraldines.
was then surrounded by fortifications, At Limerick Junction, 10 miles from
which, after undergoingsevcral sieges,were Knocklong, a branch of the Great Western
63
Limerick. [lEELAND.] ASKEATON.
town was settled by the Danes in the 9th in a fair state of preservation. To the
century, who remained its possessors un- north of the town stands the Franciscan
til their final overthrow by the Irish under abbey built by the Fitzgeralds in the 15th
Brian Boroihme in 1014. Immediately centur}-. The cloisters, inclosed on each
after they were expelled the town became side b}' pointed arches, Avith columns richly
the residence of the kings of Thomond up sculptured, are very beautiful and in good
to the Anglo-Norman invasion. The cas- preservation. Tiie parish church of As-
tle, which wasbuilt by King John, is of keaton, dating from the 13th century, was
immense strength, and some of the towers once a commandery of the Knights Tem-
of the walls which still exist show traces plars.
of numerous sieges. Returning to our route, wc pass the
G4
Adare. [IRELAND.] TiPPERARY
mouth of the River Fergus, which enters known melody has rendered this island
the Shannon nearly opposite lieit^h, and famous.
eight miles farther on we arrive at Foynes. Kilrush, 22 miles from the mouth of the
The railway from Limerick to Foynes Shannon, is a thriving town with 4424 in-
passes through the town of .1 (/are, which habitants. Hotel, Vandeleur Arms. From
contains the ruins of three abbej's, as well here an excursion may be made b}- boat
as those of an ancient castie. This castle to Scattery Island, also to a stalactite cave
was built to command the River Maige, a two miles down the bay to Loop Head.
tributary of the Shannon, on which the A Danish rath is also to be seen in the
town of Adare is situated it was the prop-
; neighborhood of the town.
erty of the Earls of Desmond, and owes Kilkee, 8i- miles from Kilrush, is a fash-
"Jts destruction to the rebellion of 1G41. ionable watering-place, situated at the head
The Franciscan abbey, now used as the of Moore's Bay, and protected by the Dug-
parish church, was founded by the seventh gerna Rocks. Most beautiful walks may
Earl of Kildare. The Abbe}' of the Holy be taken here in both directions, where
Trinity, founded by the first Earl of Kil- the traveler may have his fill of wild cliflf
dare, was converted into a Roman Catho- scenery and raging waves. From the
lic chapel by the late Earl of Dunraven. light-house at Loop Head a grand pano-
Within the demesne of tlie last-mentioned rama stretches out, which will fully repay
Earl (Adare Abbey, on the opposite side all those who undertake the ascent. To
of the Maige) are the ruins of the Augus- reach Tralee the traveler must return to
tine abbey founded early in the 14th cen- Tarbert, and there take the mail-car,
tury by the first Earl of Kildare. These which leaves Tarbert at 7.39 A.^L, reach-
ruins are roofless but whole, are in a good ing Tralee at 11.25 A.M., passing on the
/:tate of preservation, and the cloisters of route through Lhtowel. This is a small
Gothic architecture nearly entire. town, situated on the banks of the Feale,
The passage of the steamer from Foynes containing ivy- covered ruins of an old
to Kilrush occupies about three hours, castle which was the last stronghold to
tlirough lovely scenery, and past numer- lurrender to the forces of Elizabeth dur-
ous small and verdant islands Iving dotted ing the Desmond rebellion.
over the surface of the river, which widens Tralee, 17 miles from Listowel. (Sea
here into the appearance of a small lake. Route No. G.)
The river again narrows as the steamer
approaches Glin, the next landing-place,
near which stands the castle of the Knights
of Glyn, owned by that familj' during the
last 700 3'ears. The siege of this castle by
Sir George Carew in the reign of Eliza-
beth, and during the rebellion of the Earl
of Desmond, is justly celebrated. Unfor-
tunately for the besieged, the conflict end-
ed in the destruction of the Knight of Glyn ROUTE No. 9.
but 715 inhabitants. The channel is de- Tipperarrj is only three miles distant
fended l)y a battery built upon a small isl- from Limerick Junction. The town, which
and in the bay. In crossing from here to contains 5G38 inhabitants (1871), is situ-
Kilrush a most beautiful view of the sea ated in one of the most fertile districts
may be obtained. Scattery Island is passed of Ireland, but its inhabitants are noted
—
on the way it is crowned with one of the , for their restless and revolutionary spirit.
finest round towers in Ireland, 120 feet in !
There are few remains of antiquity to be
height there are also some ecclesiastical
; ! seen here, although the town dates from the
remains, among others an oratory said to ,
time of King John all traces of the castle
;
been very great, and has given to Mr. Bian- 2J miles wide, is well lighted by two lead-
,
coni not only a large private fortune, but ing lights at Duncannon, a red light on
the respect and good wishes of all his coun- Dunmore Pier, and by a fixed light, 139
trymen, as well as a name which Avill be in- feet above the sea, on Hook Tower. The
scribed as a benefactor in bis country's an- quays, where vessels of 800 tons can dis-
nals. charge, are among the finest in the United
Clonmel is a place of considerable antiq- Kingdom. The exports are principally ag-
uitj', and is believed to have been built be- ricultural.
fore the Danish invasion. It is situated An excursion should be made from Wa-
on both sides of the River Suir, and on Long terford to the ruins of Dunbrody Abbey,
and Muire Islands, which are connected situated five miles down the estuary, near
Avith the mainland by three bridges. Of the mouth of the Barrow, and reached by
the ancient castles and fortifications only the steamers running between Waterford
ruins are to be seen, caused h\ Cromwell's and Ross, daily (Sunday excepted) at 4
66
J
Cashel. [IRELAND.] Templemobe.
P.M. This abbey was founded in 1182 excusing himself before the king, he said he
by Henry de Montmorency, a relative of would not have committed the act had he
Strongbow. These ruins, amoiiL^ the most known the bishop was not in the cathedral.
very fine, as is also the stone filigree work Before reaching Thurles, the next sta-
of the west door. Near the abbey stands tion, we pass on the right the ruins of Ifolif
Dunbrody Castle, dating from the time of Cross Abbey, founded in 1182 by Donagh
Henry II. O'Brien, and deriving its name from the
to London (direct route from
Waterford possession of a piece of the true cross, pre-
South of Ireland), in 17f hrs. boat daily ; sented to Donagh O'Brien, grandson of
to New Milford, in 8^ hrs. ; thence by Great Brian Boroihme, by Pope Pascal. This relic
Western Railway to London., in 8 hrs. fare,
; remained in the abbey until the Reforma-
£2 Gs. (See p. 100.) tion, being set in gold and adorned with
gems, and then passed into the possession
of the Ormond family, to whom the abbey
and its valuable estates were granted for
the annual sum of £15. The building con-
sists of a choir, nave, transepts, and tower;
ROUTE No. 10. the last is supported on pointed arches,
Cork to Dublin, via Mallow, KilmallocTc, with a groined roof of Ijeautiful workman-
Maryborough, and Kildare. Time, 6 h. ship. The choir contains two interesting
4 min. (mail) fare, £1 12s.
;
shrines one of these, situated on the south
;
For description of this route as far as side of the high altar, is emblazoned with
Limerick Junction, see Route No. 4 from the arms of England and France, and of
Cork to Mallow, and Route No. 7 from the Fitzgeralds and Butlers, and is sup-
Mallow to Limerick Junction. posed to be the tomb of tlie daughter of the
Three miles beyond Limerick Junction Earl of Kildare, wife of the fourth Earl of
the train passes tlie Dundrum demesne, Ormond. The other shrine, supported by
the seat of Lord Hawarden, famous for its rows of fluted spiral columns, is believed to
deer. This park covers 2400 acres, and have been the receptacle of the fragment
is one of the largest private parks in Ire- of the cross already mentioned. The tran-
land. Goold's-cross Station is next reached, septs are both divided into two chapels,
whence it is a drive of five miles to Cashel, adorned with tombs and monuments. The
formerly the residence of the kings of Mun- baptismal font stands in the north transept.
ster, and a place of considerable interest in At Thurles, 87 miles from Dublin, the
an historical point of view, as well as for ruins of an ancient monastery founded in
its peculiar ruins, situated on a high rock 1300 may be seen.
which rises some 300 feet above the mod- This town is the scat of numerous col-
ern town. A church was founded here in leges and schools maintained by Roman
the time of St. Patrick it was also made
; Catholics it also possesses a handsome ca-
;
into a stronghold in the days of Brian 13or- thedral. The keep of the old castle, erect-
oihme. Donald O'Brien, king of Limer- ed in the 12th century, still guards the
ick, paid homage here to Henry II. during bridge crossing the Suir.
his invasion of Ireland, and Edward the Templemore owes its origin to the Knights
Bruce here held a Parliament. The build- Templars, a part of one of whose preceji-
ings on the rock are a castle and a group tories now forms an entrance into the Pri-
of ecclesiastical buildings, consisting of a ory, the seat of Sir J. Carden. The ruins
cathedral, a monastery, a church, and some of Loughmore Castle, formerly the seat of
towers. The cathedral was burned in the the Purcells, may also be seen at Temple-
15th century by the Earl of Kildare, who more.
I
passes the Rock of Dunamase, on whose here in 1675. It occupies the site of a
summit stand the ruins of Strongbow's cas- Priory of the Knights Hospitallers, found-
tle, devoted to destruction by Cromwell. ed by Earl Strongbow in 1174. From here
"VVe next reach Marijhorough, so named we soon reach the Dublin Terminus of the
after Queen Mary, and Portarlington, near Great Southern and Western Railway, sit-
which Emo Park, the seat of the Earl of uated in the western part of the city near
Portarlington, is situated. After leaving King's Bridge, and close to the entrance
Portarlington the line crosses the Barrow of Phoenix Park.
b}- means of an iron viaduct 500 feet long, Dublin is very beautifully situated on
and reaches Monastereven, the next sta- the banks of the Liffey, and contains a
tion, which derives its name from an ab- population of 338,579. There are two very
bey founded here in the 7th century by fine hotels in Dublin, viz., the Shelbourne
St!^ Even. This abbey exercised for a and Gresham. The Shelhowvie is a new
long time the privileges of a sanctuary, house, splendidly situated on St. Stephen's
and first belonged to the hereditary chiefs Green, finely furnished and admirably
of the MacEgans. After passing through managed by Mrs. Jury (widow of the late
various hands, it is now the property of the Mr. Jury, well known to American travel-
Marquis of Drogheda, and is called Moore ers) it is a favorite hotel in Ireland. The
;
Abbey. Six miles farther on we reach Gresham is also a first-class house, and
Klldare, thirty miles from Dublin. Pop- admirably managed by Mr. Walter Hol-
ulation 1333. Here a branch line runs der.
off to "Waterford through Kilkenny. Kil- Dublin is the metropolis of the island,
dare abounds in ecclesiastical antiquities. and is distinguished by the magnificence
Of the ruined cathedral, the chapel of St. of its public buildings, and by its numer-
Bridget alone remains. This chapel was ous splendid residences : it is justly regard-
called the Fire House, as here was pre- ed, in external appearance, as one of the
served the inextinguishable fire mentioned finest cities in Europe. The city was con-
by Cambrensis, which was "maintained qiiered by the English under Richard
by nuns day and night during a thou- Strongbow in 1169. Hour}- II. held his
sand years." Close to the church stands first court here in 1172, and in 1210 King
a round tower 110 feet high, whose orig- John held a court, when the first bridge
inal conical top has been replaced by a was thrown across the Liffe}'. It was be-
Gothic "battlement. Between Kildare and sieged by J>dward Bruce in 131G, when he
Newbridge we pass the Curragh, an ex- was repulsed with great loss likewise by;
tensive plain containing 4858 acres, Avhere Henry YIII. with the same effect. Dub-
horse-races take place twice a 3'ear. This lin is the seat of a Protestant University,
was once an extensive forest ; it is now styled Trinity College, which dates its
the seat of one of the chief military en- foundation from the time of Queen Eliza-
campments in Ireland. After leaving New- beth. There are, besides, academies and
bridge we pass on the right the ruins of other institutions for the culture of science,
Old Collin Abbey, founded in 3202, while literature, and the fine arts. The amount
on the opposite side the Hill of Allen may of the commerce of Dublin is considerable.
be seen rising 300 feet above a bog bear- Both foreign and coasting trade are exten-
ing the same name. We next reach Straf- sively carried on. As the mouth of the
fan, passing the village and hill of Onghter- Liffey is so obstructed by sand-banks that
ard the latter, 438 feet high, is crowned
;
large vessels can not reach the city, an ad-
by the ruins of a round tower and other mirable harbor has been constructed at
ecclesiastical remains. Celbridge Abbey Kingston, six miles from the city, with
liesnear the station of Hazelhatch this; I
which it is connected by railway.
was formerly the residence of Vanessa, one The princip?! objects of attraction in
of Swift's loves. Clondalkin, four and a Dublin are, first, the Castle, the official res-
half miles from Dublin, containing one of idence of the lord-lieutenant since the reign
the most perfect round towers to be seen of Elizabeth, at which time it was devoted
in Ireland, next passed.
is to this use its beautiful chapel, built of
:
Before reaching Dublin we pass tlie niil- Irish limestone and oak, is particularly
itarv hospital of Kilmainham, established worthy of notice. Its elegantlv stained
68
J DU B L I N
V_^
^
DUBLIX. [IRELAND.] Dublin.
glass windows contain the arms of all the veneration by its citizens. Pilgrims came
diflferent lord-lieutenants most admirably from far and near to worship before it, and
executed. The music one hears here ev- while in Dublin enjoyed the right of sanc-
ery Sunday forenoon is excellent. The tuary. It was in this church that tlie Lit-
different state apartments may be visited urgy was first read in Ireland in the En-
at all times, unless during the season, glish language in 1553 mass was again
;
when occupied by the vicero}-, who gives performed, and continued for six j-ears, by
here levees attended l)y all the elite of order of Queen iMary, when the Reformed
Dublin. Try to visit the court-yard of the service took its place. Travelers remain-
Castle in the forenoon during the time the ing in Dublin during Sunday will do weli
band plays. to visit the Cathedral, where the}' will hear
On our way to the Castle, a visit should some delightful music from a full choir.
l)e made to the Bank of Ireland in Collego St. Patrick's Cathedral.— This structure,
Green, formerh'- the Irish House of Parlia- dear to all Irishmen, was erected about the
ment, and decidedly the finest building in close of the 12th century. The original
Dublin, if not in Ireland. It was com- liuilding, however, antedates this by many
pleted in 1787, at a cost of $500,000. The hundred A^ears in fact, it is affirmed that
;
House of Lords remains the same as when St. Patrick erected a place of worship here,
finished, with the exception that a statue which was the site of tire well where he
of George III. now stands where formerly originally baptized his converts. There
the throne stood. There are two fine are numerous monuments in the interior
tapestries, representing the Battle of the of this cathedral : that of Boyle, earl of
Boyne Water and the Siege of Derry. Cork, is particularly deserving of notice.
The House of Commons is used to-day as The earl and liis lady are represented sur-
the Teller's Olfice. Orders are freely given rounded by sixteen of their children con- :
by the secretary of the bank for admission tiguous to this monument are two marl)le
to see the operation of printing the bank- which cover the resting-places of
slal)s,
notes. The General Post-ofiice, on Sack- Dean Swift and Mrs. Johnston, the "Stel-
ville Street, is also another fine building la" of his poetry. The Lady Chapel was
which should be examined. formerly used as the chapter-house for the
Immediatvly opposite the Bank is Triyi- Knights of St. Patrick. The principal otiier
ity College, founded by Queen Elizabeth, churches are St. George's, St. Michan's, St.
from which have emanated some of the Audeon's, St. Andrew's, and St.Werburg's.
greatest wits of modern times. It covers The Four Courts, so called on account of
an area of nearly thirty acres, and con- the object for which it was erected, viz., the
tains a library of nearly 20,000 volumes, Courts of Queen's Bench, Common Pleas,
and many valuable manuscripts. The mu- Chancery, and Exchequer, is a magnificent
seum is rich in interesting relics, among and extensive structure, which cost over
which is the harp of Brian Boroihme, and one million of dollars. The river front
the charter-horn of King O'Kavanagh. is 450 feet long, and has a fine portico of
Near the library is the Fellows' Garden, six Corinthian columns supporting a pedi-
in which is situated the ^Magnetic Observa- ment surmounted by a statue of Moses,
tory, the first ever established of the kind. with figures of Justice and Mercy on either
The students of Trinity College number hand. The building is crowned by a mag-
about 1400. nificent dome, under which is the grand
Christ's Church Cathedral, or' the Cathe- hall, 64 feet in diameter, lighted by a fig-
dral of the Holy Trinity, was erected in ure of Truth holding a torch in her hand.
the 11th century. It is built in the form From this hall, which in term time is the
of a cross. In the interior is a monument great resort of lawyers, doors lead into the
said to be that of Strongbow. This church four different courts. Over the entrances
was formerly the repository of many val- are four pictures worthy of notice first,:
uable relics, destroj^ed by the citizens in James abolishing the Brehon laws, Hen-
I.
the IGth century, among others the staff of ry II. granting a charter to the inhabit-
St. Patrick ;it also contained the sacred ants, John signing the Magna Charta, and
shrine of St. Culie, stolen from the Welsh William the Conqueror establishing courts
by the people of Dublin, and held in high i
of justice. In addition to the Four Courts,
69
Dublin. [IRELAND.] DuBLIly.
there are two Avings which contain other ers, and fountains, such as you
see in Cen-
smaller courts and offices. tral Park, Avhich Ave think, in years, Avhen
The Custom-house is, externally consid- the trees obtain sufficient growth, Avill Ije
ered, the finest building in Dul:»lin. It far superior to any thing in the world.
Avas erected at an expense of two and a The principal object of interest in the Phoe-
half millions of dollars, and occupied ten nix Park is the Wellington Testimonial. It
years in building. Over the portico, which is a massiA'e obelisk, placed on a granite
is composed of Doric columns, are colossal pedestal, on Avhich are Avritten Che A'arious
statues of Xavi-'ation, "Wealth, Commerce, victories gainedby England's greatest war-
and Industry. On the tympanum is a rior. about 200 feet in height, and
It is
fculpture representing the Union of En- cost $100,000. The vice-regal lodge of
gland and Ii-eland. On the north side of the lord-lieutenant is situated in the Park,
the building is a portico nearh'- similar, and near it are the Zoological Gardens.
with figures of Europe, Asia, Africa, and They are quite extensive, and, though not
America. The Avliole building is surmount- well filled,the collection is varied.
ed by a dome, on which is a colossal statue A Ausit should be made to the Botanic
of Hope. Seen from every side, the Cus- Gardens at Glasnevin, about two miles from
tom-house is a very beautiful building. Dublin, near Avhich is the Cemetery, con-
The Exchange, in Dame Street, is also de- taining numerous fine monuments, among
serving of a visit. others those of Daniel O'Connell and Cur-
Nelson's 2fonument, which stands in the ran. They are both of massive granite, the
centre of Sackville Street, is a beautiful former one hundred and sixty feet high,
testimonial erected by the Irish admirers surmounted b)^ a cross eiglit feet in height.
of that hero. The pedestal is of granite, Poplin is fast assuming an important
thirty feet high, bearing the names of Nel- place among
the products of Ireland, the
son's different victories. The Doric col- Irish Poplin having now a world-Avide rep-
umn is seventy feet in height, and is sur- utation. Few tourists leave Dublin Avith-
mounted by a fine statue of the hero, erect- out supplying themselves with some of
ed by Thomas Kirk, thirteen feet in height, these beautiful fabrics, Avhich many con-
which stands on another pedestal. Nelson sider impossible to be surpassed by the
is represented leaning against the capstan products of France or Italy.
of a ship. A magnificent view of the city In Lower Sackville Street, No. 15, is the
and surrounding countrA^ may be had from merchant tailoring establishment of Sam-
the summit. Afee of sixpence is demand- uel McComas & Son. where travelers may
ed for permission to ascend. procure clothing in the first style of fash-
The Irish Xational Gallenj contains some ion and at most reasonable prices. Their
fine paintings and sculpture. It is situated assortment of fashionable Avoolens is large
on the north side of Leinster LaAvn, and and select, consisting of English, Scotch,
Avas opened in 18G4. On the opposite side French, and Irish manufactures.
of the square Ls the Museum of Xatureil A fine statue of the Liberator, Daniel
History. O'Connell, in Lower Sackville Street, close
The Royal Irish A cademy should also be to the bridge, was unveiled in 1882.
visited. A member's introduction is nec-
to American travelers, don't expect to find should he not be crossing the channel from
a Central Park of Ncav York, a Bois de Kingstown (six miles from Dublin), he had
Boulogne of Paris, or a Cascine of Florence. better make an excursion to that town,
The portion open to the public is 1300 acres which is the harbor of Dublin, and from
in extent, and contains many magnificent which steamers are arriving and departing
trees and fine carriage-driA' es, but no diver- several times each day to England, Scot-
sity of scenery, beautiful lakes, walks, llow- land, and Wales. (See Koutc No. 29.)
70
KiNGSTOAVN. [IRELAND.] Route No. 11.
entirely artificial, and is one of the finest Cork; time, 5 hrs. (mail); fare, £1 125.
in the kingdom its cost was two and a (Route 10);
;
to Waterford ; time, 4 hrs.;
half millions of dollars. The railway runs fare, £1 25. Ad. (Route 11) ;— <o Killarney;
along the pier, where passengers may time, 6 h. 4 m. ;— ?<? Wexford; time, 4J hrs.
change immediately to the sailing packet, (Route 13).
under shelter during stormy weather. The
principal hotels are the Royal and Anglesea
Arms. A
most interesting excursion of
three days may be made by continuing on
to Bray, a watering-place of very modem
construction, Enniskerry, the Dargle, the
Seven Churches, Vale of Avoca, and Wick-
low. For particulars of this excursion, see
Route No. 13.
An excursion should also be made to the
Hill of Howth, an elevated promontory at
the northern entrance to Dublin harbor.
It rises nearly 600 feet above the level of
the sea. Its castle, abbey, and college are
well worth a visit. The castle is the fam-
il}' seat of the Lawrences, who have held it
most religiously kept imtil a recent period. ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, founded by Do-
There is a painting in the castle which il- nagh M'Gilla-Patrick, Prince of Ossurv.
71
Kilkenny. [IRELAND.] Kells.
They combine the Anglo - Xorman and bly that of Lady Alice Kettell in 1325.
Gothic styles of architecture. The tomb Congreve, Swift, and Farquhar were ed-
of the founder, ornamented with two re- ucated at Kilkenny in the college found-
cumbent figures, lies opposite the high al- ed by Pierce Butler, Earl of Ormond, and
tar. This abbey was at one time one of afterward made a ro^'al college by King
the finest and richest monastic institutions James.
in Ireland. The lands extended over 1500 An excursion may be made from Kil-
acres, while the buildings themselves cov- kenny to Callan and Kells, to visit two in-
ered an area of three acres. At the disso- teresting ruins. Callan, 10 miles distant,
lution this was granted to the Earl of Or- was formerly a walled town of some im-
mond. portance. The Friary, founded bv Sir
The town oi Kilkenny contains a popula- James Butler in the 15th century, is a long
tion of 12,710 inhabitants, showing a grad- aisled building, the choir of which is used
ual decrease. In 1841 it contained 20,625, as the parish church.
and in '51, 14,174. The " roving blades " The town oi Kells, built by one of Strong-
of Kilkenny evidently know where they bow's retainers, contains the ruins of a verj'
are best cared for, and the emigration to interesting priory, founded by Sir Geoffrey
the United States is large and regular. de Monte Morisco in the 12th centur3\ The
The principal attraction is Ormond Castle, building consisted of two courts, separated
the princel}' mansion of the Butlers, Avhose by a high wall, with a strong tower at each,
ancestors purchased it from the Pembroke and b}' a small branch of the King's River.
family in 1319: it was stormed by Crom- The southern court, 400 feet square, con-
well in 1650, and a breach effected, but the tained no buildings, while in the second
besiegers were ever}' time repulsed ; the were situated the church, cloister, and
townspeople, however, proving traitors, I
abodes of the monks. The whole building
and admitting the besiegers into the cit}', j
has more of a military than an ecclesiastic-
Sir Walter Butler, who was in command, j
al appearance. About three miles south of
deeming a longer resistance useless, and to i
the priory stands the round tower of Kil-
save the unnecessary effusion of blood, sur- I
ree, 96 feet in height, the conical top of
rendered. The greater portion of the cas- which has disappeared in the vicinity is a
:
tle is modern, and at present not only con- stone cross erected to commemorate an at-
veys the idea of strength, but of comfort. tempt made by Neill Callan, a king of Ire-
It is the residence of the Marquis of Or- land, to save a retainer from drowning, by
mond, and contains a fine picture-gallery. which he lost his own life. It was this oc-
The Cathedral of St. Canice is one of currence which gave the name of King's
the most interesting buildings in Ireland. River to the stream which flows past this
Among the numerous monuments it con- spot.
tains is one to the Countess of Ormond, Returning to Kilkennj-, and resuming
Avife of the eighth earl. She was an Ama- our route, we pass through tha stations of
zon, and lived in the style of Rob Roy, Ballyragget, Attanagh, and Abbeylix be-
levjnng black-mail on her less powerful fore reaching Marvborough. From here
neighbors. Adjoining the cathedral is a the route to Dublin through Kildare has
round tower, 108 feet in height, and 47 feet already been described. (See Route No.,
in circumference at the base ; the door is 10.)
about nine feet from the ground, and the
windows are wider than in most round
towers. Kilkenny abounds in ruins of
much interest, and several da\'s may be
veiy pleasantly spent here.
St. John's, or the parish church, former-
ly an abbey dating from the 13th century,
is called the Lantern of Ireland, owing to
its numerous beautiful windows. Another
object of interest is Black Abbey, also of
the 13th century. Kilkenny has been the
scene of several trials for witchcraft, nota-
79
VTexford. [IRELAND.] Carlow.
ulation,and is believed to havt* been peo-
ROUTE No. 12. pled by Stronguow v.ith colonists from
Wexford to Dublin, via Carlow and Kil- Wales. Towers and fortified houses abound,
dare. \
there being about 60 to be seen within an
This is not the shortest or most direct : area of 40,000 acres.
route from Wexford, but may be taken by Another trip might be made from Wex-
those desirous of visiting Carlow. By rail ford to Fethurd, a small fishing-vill;ige,
from Wexford to liagenalstown, and thence about 25 miles distant, situated on tlie west
to Carlow. Kildare, and Dublin. Time, shore of Bannow Bay, whence a visit may
5 hours 20 minutes fare, llrst class, from
;
j
be made to Tintern Al)bey. This abbey
Bageualstown to Dublin, 12s. 9c/. was founded by the Earl of Pembroke, son-
\Vz3-ford is situated on the side of a liill in-law of Strongbow, in the year 1200, and
sverlookint^ the estuary of the Slancy and was peopled and named after a similar es-
Wexford Haven, and contains a population tablishment in Monmouthshire. It wat
of 12,077. Hotel, White's. The harbor, erected in payment of a vow made by the
although eight miles in length and three earl when in danger of shipwreck, by which
in breadth, can only be entered by ships he swore to found an abbey on the spot
of 200 tons' burden, owing to the existence where he should be landed in safety. The
of a bar at the mouth. Steamers leave here demesne of Tintern was granted by Queen
weekly for Bristol, also for Liverpool, which E :abeth to the Colclough famil}', who
i
is 171 miles distant. Wexford was one of still retain the estate, and whose mansion
the first and most important maritime set- was formed from the chancel, so that little
tlements of the Danes, and was also chosen of the abbey now remains but the tower.
'
Fitzgerald, brother of the Earl of Kildare, the scene of a most blood.v massacre com-
but retaken in ten days by Sir Edward mitted by the insurgents, whose main force
Poynings ; again, in 1534, Lord Thomas was encamped here, on the inhabitants of
Fitzgerald obtained possession, after re- the town. About 400 persons were taken
nouncing his allegiance to Henry VIII. prisoners, and after being confined in an old
and in 1642 the building was bombarded by windmill on the summit of Vinegar Hill,
a division of Ireton's army. Nothing now were finally put to death with pikes. Of
remains but two towers with their connect- the old Franciscan abbey, a single tower
ing wall, owing to an attempt made by a isalone standing.
phvsician in 1814 to decrease the thickness Eight miles north of Enniscorthy we
of the walls of the castle, the site of which reach Ferns, once the capital of the king-
he had chosen for a lunatic asylum the ; dom of Leinster, and a place of very great
gunpowder employed worked so very effect- antiquity, which suffered much from the in-
ively that almost no walls were left to tell cursions of the Danes. A monastery was
their tale of ancient times. founded here in the year 598 by St. Eden,
The Roman Catholic Cathedral of Car- the site of which is now occupied by a mod-
low is a with a tower 150 feet
fine building, ern cathedral, erected in 1816. Almost ad-
in height, and containing a very good mon- joining this church are the ruins of an Au-
ument erected to the memory of Bishop gustinian abbey founded by Dermot Mac-
Doyle. A college for Roman Catholic stu- Morrogh in the 12th century a tower of ;
dents adjoins the church. two stories, covered with moss and ivy, is
Coarse woolen cloth is largely manufact- all that now remains standing. The Epis-
ured at Carlow. copal Palace, built by Thomas Ram in 1630,
The first station after leaving Carlow is adjoins the cathedral. The founder, being
Mageney, three miles from v.hich Castle- of very advanced age, caused the following
derinot, once the residence of the royal Der- inscription to be placed above the porch
mots, is situated of the ancient splendor,
;
'This liou3e Earn built for his succeeding
nothing now remains but an old tower. The brothers :
town was sacked by Bruce in 131G. The Thus sheep bear wool, not for themselves,
but others."
ruins of a Franciscan abbey, founded by
the Earl of Kildare in the 13th century, are The castle, situated on the summit of the
also to be seen here. Athy (population hilloverlooking the town, was dismantled
4510) is passed about 15 miles before reach- in the war of 1641 by the Parliamentary
ing Kildare. For the remainder of this forces one of the round towers, contain-
;
route from Kildare to Dublin, sec Route ing a chapel with groined roof, is still in a
No. 10. '
good state of preservation.
Passing through Camolin and Gorey, we
reach Arldow (population 5178). Hotel,
Kinsela's. This town, situated on the sea-
coast 42 miles from Wexford, is prevented
from assuming an important position as a
sea-port by the occurrence of a sand-bar
similar to the one obstructing the naviga-
tion of the Liffey. The inhabitants are
chiefly supported by the herring and oys-
ter fisheries, or by the produce
of the cop-
ROUTE No. 13. per and lead mines in the valley of the
Wexford to Dublin, via Arhhw and Wick- Avoca, which is brought here to be ship-
low. Time, 3 h. 55 m. ped by a tramroad. This town once boast-
After leaving Wexford (see Route No. ed a castle and a monastery of the for- ;
12), the first place of interest on the line of mer, built by the Ormond family, a por-
railway is Enniscorih?/, a pretty town, situ- tion of a tower is alone standing.
ated on the side of a steep hill on the right The road between Arklow and Wicklow
bank of the Slane}', with an old castle, ow- contains little of interest.
ing its origin to Raymond le Gros. Dur- WicUow
(population 3448). This tcrrn
ing the rebellion of 1708, Enniscorthy was was one of the earliest maritime stations
74
Devii/s Glen. [IRELAND.] Glkndalough.
of the Danes. The castle, begun in the founded here in the 7th century by St.
12th century and finished in the 14th, stood Kevin, around which other Ijuildings soon
on a promontory near the town, on wliich rose and that the city was early a place
;
the remains of a tower may still be seen. of importance is proved by the frequent
The town itself is particularly uninterest- attacks made upon it l)y the Danes in the
ing. Newrath Bndge is situated on the 9th century. After being almost entirely
road from ^Mcklow to Bray, in the centre reduced to ashes in 1020, it was rebuilt only
of what is called the Garden of Wicklow. to encounter another form of destructicn
Should the traveler have time, it would be in a flood, 1177, while in 1308 it was burn-
aa well to give up the railway here and ed to the ground by the English invading
continue his journey to Bray by car, pass- army, and never rebuilt. Chief among
ing through places which he would other- the ruins is the round tower, built of gran-
wise visit by carriage from the latter place. ite and slate, and almost perfect in its pres-
Hunter's Hotel, situated on the bank of ervation. The top having been torn off
the Vartrcy, two miles from the station of in a storm at the beginning of the present
Newrath Bridge, is a convenient point century, its height does not now exceed
from which to make the neighboring ex- 110 feet. St. Kevin's Oratory, or Kitch-
cursions. In the immediate vicinity is en, as it is commonly called, is the most
Eosanna, an estate belonging to the neph- perfect of the ruins a small building
; it is
ew of Mrs. Tighe, authoress of " Psyche." 22 feet longby 15 wide, containing a bro-
The first excursion should be made by ken cross brought here from Derrybaron,
car to the Devil's Gle?i, a wild and narrow a neighboring estate, where fragments of
pass a mile and a half in length, through [
ruins lie scattered in every direction. The
which the Vartrey takes its course, foam- [
abbey is situated on this estate
here the ;
ufacture ; the town is situated on a hill are of very small dimensions. St. Kevin's
crowned by a handsome Gothic church, j
Bed is a cavity in the face of the precipice
from which a fine view is obtained of the j
that rises above the Upper Lake, and is
valley of the Avoca, next crossed by the 1
reached by a narrow ledge along the cliff,
tourist in order to reach Castle Howard. to the foot of which travelers desiring to
|
Near the castle is the celebrated Meeting make the ascent are conveyed in a boat.
of the Waters described by Moore, the spot Here, according to tradition, St. Kevin
on which the poet is said to have sat being took refuge from the importunities of a
marked by a slab and a group of ever- l)lue-eyed Kathleen, who, in her devotion
greens. The traveler may return to Rath- |
to the saint, begged to be his slave, lie
drum through Glenmalure, another beauti- j
at his feet, and do penance with him for
ful pass, with a fine waterfall. A mile and j
his sins and her own. She even followed
a half from Drumgotf Inn, which is situ- him was hurled
to this lonely cave, but
ated at one end of the glen, are the ruins of for her painsby the indignant saint into
Glendaloiiffh, or the Seven Churches, reach- the lake below. jMoore commemordtei
ed by a road across the mountain ridge be- this legend in the following lines:
tween Glenmalure and the adjacent valley.
These ruins are situated on the borders of •By that lake whose gloomy shore
two lakes, in the midst of a lonely valley, t^ky-lark never warbles o'er,
and are all that now remain of what was Where the cliflf hangs high and steep
Young Saint Kevin stole to sleep.
once a good-sized city as well as a famous 'Here, at lea.^t,' he cnlnily s.-xid,
seat of learning. A monasterv was first '
Woman ne'er shall finl mv b 'fl.'
Glendalough. [IRELAND.] Brat.
To this rocky, wild retreat derives its name from the stream which
And wlien moining met his view, foams between its hills, and which forms at
Her wild glances met it too.
Ah your saints have cruel hearts
I
one place a fine fall, only to be seen at the
Sternly from his bed he starts, bottom of the glen, owing to the dense
And with rude, repul ive shock. foliage which grows on either side. A
Hurls her from the beetling rock.
glorious view ma}'^ be obtained from the
*• Glendalough, thy gloomy wave Lover's Leap, a high rock covered with
Soon was gentle Kathleen's grave moss, Avhich projects across the glen. A
Soon the saint (\et, ah too late)
!
short drive from here brings the tourist
Felt her love, and mourned her fate.
When he said, lieaven rest her soul,'
' to Poirersconrt, granted to the AVingfield
Kound the lake light mu-ic stole; family by James I. A permit from Lord
And her L-host was seen to glide. Powerscourt's agent, living at Enniskerry,
Smiling, o'er the fatal tide."
is necessary in order to visit the grounds.
The walls of the cave are covered with Here the chief attraction is a cascade 100
the names or initials of those who have un- feet in height, which in dry weather is lit-
dertaken the ascent, among
others that of tle more than a silver thread falling along
Sir Walter Scott, who came
here in 1825. the face of the rock, but. after rains in-
Near the village of Annamoe, which ad- creases to a very fine fall, lleturning to
joins Glendalough Park, are the ruins of the carriage, the drive is continued along
the ancient residence of the O'Tooles, kings the Ennislierry road to the Bray Lakes,
of Wicklow. which lie in the midst of the Kippure
Returning to the line of railway which Mountains, and which are renowned for
we left at Newrath Bridge, we continue tlieirwuld and beautiful scenery. On the
our route to Kilcool Station, near which road back to Bray the traveler passes Hol-
are situated the beautiful demesnes of lyhrook, the estate and mansion of Sir G.
Mount Kennedy, Glendarragh, and Alta- F. J. Hodson, who has kindly opened them
don, as well as the Glen of Dunran. This to the public. His house was once the
residence of " Robin Adair," whose drink-
I
along the base of Carrignamuclv. and runs ing-cup and harp are to be seen in the old
almost parallel with the high-road. From oak hall. Bray Head, half an hour's drive
Kilcool to Delgany the line runs along from here, is a remarkable promontory, 807
ledges of rocks or through tunnels and deep feet in height, and very easy of ascent.
cuttings, until, at a little distance from Here a most extensive view may be ob-
the station, the Hydropathic Establish- tained, of which we advise the traveler to
ment, situated on an eminence overlook- returning to Bray.
profit before
ing the town, attracts the attention. Al- j
The Glen of the Downs, five miles from
though the Glen of the Downs lies quite !
Bray, should next be visited. Kibiid-
near Dalgany. it had better be visited on derry the seat of the Earl of Meatli, is
an excursion from Bray. passed on the way. This w^as formerly a
76
\r\y Head. [IRELAND.] New Rosa
outer hall tilled with armor, contain a gen- 6 hrs. 50 min. Waterford to Wexford, by
;
—
three fortresses Cratloe, Castle Donnell,
I
was closed up in the 14th century, when a
and Cratloe-kul. Farther on, at the mouth j
new doorway was placed in the south wall.
of the Bunratty Eiver. is the old castle of i
The round tower is believed to be the
Bunratty, which serves as a police bar- !
work of Gobhan Saer,who built the Glen-
rack, formerly belonging to the Earls of dalough and Antrim towers. It dates, like
Thomond. After passing several stations, the church, from the 7th century, and is
we an-ive at remarkable for leaning some 17 feet out of
Quin, a small town possessing one of ,
the perpendicular. The doorway is 26 feet
the finest as well as best-preserved abbeys from the ground.
in Ireland. This building dates from '
ing but the chancel now remains, contain- to Lough Gara, with a table-stone tifteen
ing a most beautiful triumphal arch. The feet in length, and eleven feet in width,
west door is a very tine specimen of an- formerlj' supported by five pillars.
cient Norman work. The cathedral is now
used as a parish church. The Cross of
Tuam is made, like the cathedral, of red
sandstone. On the base are inscriptions
in memory of Turlough O'Connor, King of
Connaught, and of O'Hoisin, tlie abbot,
'i'his cross was at one time broken into
three pijces, which were possessed b\' dif-
ferent persons. The Roman Catholic Ca-
thedral, of modern construction, is a very
line building. ROUTE No. 16.
From Tuam we take a car to Dunmore, Limerick to Dublin, via Eoscrea, Mary-
the road passing through most monotonous horough, and Kildare^ by rail. Time, 5 hrs.
scenery, only relieved by views of the 20 m. fare, £1 25.
;
Boyle River. Hotel, Monsons. Popula- I Rosse, so famous in the world of science for
tion 3161. The river is here crossed by I
his improvements in the telescope. Permis-
three bridges, on one of which is a pedes- sion is freely granted to visitors desiring to
trian statue of William III. The princi- see the telescopes belonging to the earl. The
pal attraction of the town is the ruins of •
town is situated on Canacor River, and is
an abbey of Gothic architecture founded neat and well built in the principal square
;
preservation, and in the porter's lodge the ground. Close to this is an ancient cross,
names of some of Cromwell's soldiers arc and a monumental stone, called the shrine
still to be found carved upon the doors. of St. Cronan, on Avhich a r,^ presentation
M'Dermot, King of Moylough, was buried of the crucifixion is sculptured. The old
in the abbey in the 12th century. The Franciscan abbfy, founded in the loth
bridge adjoining these ruins is believed to j
century, has been incorporated in the Ro-
be of as groat antiquity as the abbey itself. man Catholic church.
KiLLALOE. [IRELAND.] Clonmacnoise.
ty minutes the latter place, passing on our ing which there are many traditions. Here
route through an extremely fertile country. a monastery was founded by St. Cairnin in
Castle Connell derives its name from an old the 7th century, but later was destroyed,
castle, situated on a rock overhanging the together with its churches, by the Danes.
river, which was built here by the O'Briens The buildings Avere afterward reconstruct-
at an early period. The ruins consist of ed by Brian Boroimhe, King of Munster,
some crumbling walls, overgrown with ivy, in 1027. The round tower, 80 feet in height,
and part of a tower the keep was blown
; dates from the 10th century, and was the
up by order of the Prince of Hesse, after a residence of St. Cosgrath, an anchorite,
siege in which the Irish partisans of James called "the Miserable."
II. held out against him. This castle was The steamer llrst stops at Dntminur,
once the residence of the renowned Brian where the ruins of a former stronghold of
Boru, Avhose grandson was murdered here the O'Briens are to be seen. Above WiL
by the Prince of Thomond. At Castle liamstoum, the next station, where pike and
Connell the rapids of the Shannon may be perch will be found in abundance by an-
seen in all their grandeur for a quarter
; glers, the lake growsnarrower.and its shores,
of a mile this river, which above the rap- indented by numerous creeks, increase in
ids is 300 yards wide and 40 feet deep, is beauty. After passing the ruins of Castle
almost a cataract, pouring over huge rocks Terr}' glass on the right, Ave reach those of
and stones with wonderful force, and some- Castle Portumna, destroyed by fire in 1826,
what resembling the rapids of the St. Law- which are situated at the outlet of the lake.
rence. Portumn'i is the next station. Here the
O'Brien's Bridge is crossed a few mo- ruins of an ancient Dominican monastery
ments after leaving Castle Connell of the
; are to be seen. After passing Banagber,
oriuinal structure but little now remains : near which stands the ruined castle of
it was partly destroyed in 1556 by the Earl Garrv and the Grand Canal, we approach
of Ormond, and has since undergone fre- Mount Shannon, and see on an island to the
quent repairs. right the celebrated ruins of Clonmacnoise,
Killaloe is the last station on our railway of which Dr. Rodenburg gives the follow-
journey, and the point from which we em- ing description
Athlone. [IRELAND.] Lough C urbane.
"Close to the shore stands Clonmac-
noise, one of the most remarkable ruins in
this island of the saints. The banks rise
here slightly, and on the grass-clad mound
stand two round towers, ruins of churches,
and a cemeten,'. On the first hillock are
the sunken walls of an old ecclesiastical
building on another hill is the great round
: ,
ROUTE No. 18.
the mound of the great round tower to the Ross Bay the road runs along the edge of
second the ground is covered with upright the cliffs which form the base of Drung
gravestones, among which stands a ruin, Mountain fur a distance of several miles,
St. Kieran's Church, where the saint him- and commands a fine view over Dingle Bay
self is said to be buried. The wonder of and the mountains on its opposite side.
Clonmacnoise is St. Kieran's Stone, a cross Turning inland and passing through Cahir-
of rare Ijeauty, covered with sacred images. civeen, we reach Reenard Point, and take
A wall surrounds the holy spot, which is to the ferry for Valentia Island, two miles and
this day the scene of many pilgrimages and '.
remains are to be seen. Several miles Dublin Gahcay, via Miillingar, Aih-
to
from "VVaterville we pass Derrynane, the lone, and Ballinasloe, by rail. Time, 5 hrs.
seat of the OConnell family, beautifully fare, £1 3s. 8d.
situated on the margin of a creek, and sur- The Continental system of coupons for
|
rounded by mountains. Farther on we the round has been adopted by the Mid-
j
reach Cove, from which place Staigne Foii land Great Western Railway, and at a rea=
may be visited, one of the most wonderful sonable cost the whole of the grand and
of the antiquarian remains to be seen in wild scenery of Connemara, the Isle of
Ireland. It is a circular stone inclosure, Achill, Sligo, and other interesting locali-
;
ually decreasing to the top, where they are serve Killarney for the winding up of their
'
five feet two inches in thickness; within trip ere re-embarking for America.
this wall are two small chambers. Leavmg Dublin b}- the Midland Great
Wilde thus describes the interior : Western Railway, we pass near Clonsilla
"Around the interior of the wall arc ar- Station the Observatory of the Dublin Uni-
ranged ten sets of stairs, the highest reach- versity, to be seen on the left, while on the
ing nearly to the full height of the wall, right stand the ruins of Castleknock, built
and the secondary flight being about half during the reign of Henrj' II. by Hugh
that much. Each step is two feet wide, Tj-rrell this building was captured by
;
and the lower flights project within the Bruce in 1316, and again by Colonel Monk
circle of the higher. The}' had two nar- in 1642. After leaving Lucan, the line
row platforms, on which its warders or de- crosses the valley of the Rye by means of
fenders stood. Although larger forts of an embankment 100 feet in height, and
this kind are known in Ireland, nothing so reaches Leixlij), where the towers of a cas-
perfect in the construction of the staircases tle erected by Adam Fitz -Hereford, one
encircling the interior is to be found, with of the Anglo-Norman conquerors, are still
the exception of Dunmohr, in the middle to be seen. The cascade formed by the
island of Arran. A date of 2000 years can LifFey, called the Salmon Leap, is near
not be considered too old for this monu- Leixlip.
ment, which is still in a state of great pres- Fifteen miles from Dublin we pass May-
ervation, and only to be equaled by those nooth, where may be seen the fine buildings
in Arran, which, however, do not evince so of the Royal College of St. Patrick, which,
much care in their design and construction. after long debate in the British Parliament
What may have been the original Irish during the present reign, was permanently
name of 'Staigne Fort,' which is quite a endovred for the education of live hundred
modern appellation, has not yet been de- priests. None but those destined for the
termined." priesthood can enter here, and the course
Pfeturning to our car, we pass through of study requires eight years. The most
Sneem, a small village at the mouth of a conspicuous object seen on the arrival at
river of the same name, prettily embosom- the station is the tower of the castle of Kil-
ed in the midst of mountains. From here dare, erected in the fifteenth centurj^. It
the road crosses the Blackwater, and con- is at present the property of the Duke of
tinues along the right bank of the Ken- Leinster. and will well repay a visit.
mare River imtil it reaches the town of the From Fern's Lock the line passes through
same name. the dreary Bog of Allen to Enfield, whence
Kenmare (see Route No. 3). there is little of importance until we reach
MulUvgar. Population 6103. This is a large
assize town, carrying on an important trade
in butter, frieze, and wool it; is also fa-
mous for its annual horse-fair. At Mul-
lingar the traveler loses sight of the Royal
Canal, which so far runs parallel with the
82
Athlone. [IRELAND.] OUGIITERARIA
railway, but here turns off toward Long- conspicuousl}' before our countrymen a few
ford. years since as the terminus of the "Lever"
Ten miles from Mullingar wc arrive at line of steaincrs, running between Now
Athlone (see Route Xo. 17), noted principal- York and Ireland. Travelers, before leav-
ly fur its siege in 1G91, when the army of ing (iahvay, should visit the quarter called
William III. hurled against its walls and Gladdagh, which is exclusively occupisd
castles over twelve thousand cannon-balls. by a peculiar set of people, mostly fishor-
This town is an important military station, r.ien,who never mix nor intermarry with
containing barracks for two thousand men, the other inhabitants. They have a chiaf
and Mfteen thousand stand of aims. Wc among themselves, who decides all dis-
next reach Bullinasloe, a town of consider- putes, and who receives the title of Kin^
al)le size, containing some 4G19 inhabitants, of the Gladdagh. A
little farther wcst-
and renowned for its annual great cattle- Avard of this place a beautiful view of the
fair, which is attended by people from all bay and islands of Arran may be had.
parts of Europe. At Kilconnel, six miles These islands, celebrated by the poet
farther on, are the ruins of a Franciscan Moore — '"Oh, Arranmore, loved Arran-
monastery, founded in the fifteenth cen- more" —maybe visited by boats from Gal-
tury. After leaving Woodlmm, once a place way, Avhich go every few days. Tourists
of importance, but now only remarkable visiting Connemara generally make Gal-
for its antiquities, the mountains of Con- way their starting-point. Three or four
nemara come in view on the right. days or a week may
be very pleasantly
Atkenry is next i-eached, a place renown- spent in this delightful district, where pub-
ed in Irish history for the many desperate lic cars in connection with the railway
encounters between the English and Irish run through the finest part of the scenery,
forces which have here taken place. Popu- enabling those holding coupon tickets to
lation 1199. The castle, dating from the return to Dublin by rail from Westport,
thirteenth century, is admirabh'- preserved, Ballina, or SUgo.
as well as a Dominican abbey, which is Public cars leave Kilkee daily for Mil-
one of the linest ruins in Ireland. townmalbay. Cliffs of Moher, Lisdoonvar-
Passing on the left the ruined Castle Dor- na, and Bally vaughan, en route between
rydonnell, we now obtain a fine view of Killarney and Connemara. The Midland
Galwaij, the capital of the west of Ireland, Great Western tickets, Xos. 3 and 4, are
and the fifth city of Ireland in point of pop- available from Broadstone for Kilkee Cir-
ulation and commerce. Attached to the cular Tour.
railway station there is a fine hotel. Gal-
Avay contained in 18G1 a population of 1G,418
inhabitants ; in 1871, 13,184, being a fall-
ing off in ten years of over three thousand.
The town is situated on the bay of the same
name, wiiere the western lakes of Ireland ROUTE Xo. 20.
pour out their surplus waters. The city Galway CUfden, via Ovghierard and
to
owes considerable of its importance to its Ballinahinch, by mail-car. Time, 7 hrs. 30
commerce with Spain, and its intercourse min. fare, 85.
;
with that country may be seen iji every A stage-car leaves Galway every morn-
direction, not only in the architecture of ing to perform this route, which extends
the houses and appearance of the streets, through a fertile and well-cultivated coun-
but in the natives one sees on every side
: try as far as Moycullen. From here ex-
dark eyes and dark hair, and black eyes tensive views are to be obtained of Lough
and }ellow hair are by no means of rare Carrib and of Ross promontory. Five miles
occurrence. The principal public build- from Moycullen a natural limestone arch
ings are the Queen's College, Custom- is passed, which crosses a stream flowing
House, Chamber of Commerce, Royal In- under the walls of Aghanure Castle this :
stitution, Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, I is the ancient seat of the O'Flahertys, whose
some monasteries and nunneries. There modern mansion is passed just before reach-
are also several l)reweries, distilleries, and ing OughterarJ.
j
numerous founderies. Galway was brought I This is a small village, situated on the
83
Clifden. [IRELAND.] ROUXDSTOXE.
Clifden, beautifully situated at the head Dublin Westport, via Mullingar, Ath-
to
of .rdbear Bay, contains 1313 inhabitants. lone, Roscommon, Castlereagh, and Castle-
Hotels, Carr-''s and Hart's. It is a pretty, bar, by rail. Time, 6 hrs. 38 niin. fare, £1
;
Harpers Hand-Book
^
—-^
Roscommon. [IRELAND.] Westport
Castle may be visited. This is believed I ditch, much defaced, and measures about
to have existed as a fortress of the Danes j
IIG feet in diameter. Here are small cir-
as early as the 9th century. It afterward 1
cular mounds, which cover sepulchral
belonged to the O'Connors until the 13th ]
chambers, built of stone, without any ce-
century, when it was taken by the English. !
ment, and filled with unburned bt nes. Out-
Weld describes the castle as being built side the cemetery is the monument of Da-
in the form of a letter P, the tail of which thi,-with a pillar of red sandstone.
formed the banqueting-hall, and the upper j
Nothing of importance is now passed un-
part the keep. Ballymurry is the next til we reach Castlehar, a place containing
tality, prowess, and renown the exaltcr of the ing, -while the sea-bathing is unexception-
;
clerical orders and men of science a worthy : able. A considerable trade is carried on
materies of a king of Ireland, for his nobility, in corn and provisions. There is a court-
personal shape, heroism, wisdom, clemency, and
house, several banks, breweries, and distil-
truth, died, after the victory of [extreme] unc-
tion and penance, in the monastery of Roscom- leries, together with wharves and wiire-
mon, wlrch he himself had granted to God and houses, and all the adjuncts of a thriving
that ordt-r."
town. In the neighborhood of the town is
In the monument the king is crowned the beautiful estate of the Marquis of Sli-
and dressed in his robe of state the tomb ; go, to whi(A visitors are freely admitted.
was originally divided into compartments,
in which stood figures mailed and armed
many of these are now
to be seen strewn
in tlie burial-place. In the northern tran-
sept is an aisle, from which it is separated
by round and massive pillars supporting
four pointed arches.
At Donamon, the next station, the line
crosses the Suck, and, continuing along
the stream, passes Ballymoe, and arrives at
Castlereagh (see Route No. 15). Here the
ancient circular cemetery of Cruachan may
be visited. It is surrounded bv a stone
Ballinrobe. [IRELAND.] Headford.
No. 21) for Galway, and takes the direction tunately still retain an example in the
of the Triangle, a name given to the place "Cross of Cong," to be seen in the Roj'al
where roads branch off, on the right to Irish Academy, Dublin. The cross is two
Killery and Lough Mask, and on the left and a half feet high, of silver, washed with
to Castlebar. From Clone, reached after gold, richly chased, and studded with pre-
crossing the river connecting Loughs Na- cious stones. from the early part
It dates
corralea and Nagaltia, we obtain our first of the 12th century, and bears on its edges
view of Lough Mask, a lake ten miles in Latin and Gaelic inscriptions, giving the
length by four in breadth, dotted -with nu- name of the king in whose reign it was
merous islands. We
are now in a perfect made (Turlough O'Connor), that of a con-
network of lakes and rivers. Crossing the temporary Church dignitary, as well as of
small stream which connects the waters the artist, who was an Irishman. It was
of Loughs Cloon and Mask, we reach Kil- made to contain a portion of the true
keeran, and continue our drive along a small cross, which was placed in a central crys-
peninsula running between the latter lake tal surrounded by gold. The tracery is of
and Lough Carra to Ballinrobe. This small a style similar to the stone decorations of
town situated on the Robe, about two
is the period, and chiefly represents animals
miles above its entrance into Lough Mask. of various grotesque forms.
The scenery in the vicinity is very beau- In the neighborhood of Cong is a re-
tiful. Not far from Ballinrobe stands a markable natural curiosity in the shape
ruined castle of the O'Connors, built on a of a cavern, called the Pigeon Hole, from
small island in Lough Mask, and destroyed Avhich a view may be obtained of the sub-
in 1586 by Sir Richard Bingham. There terranean river which connects Lough
are about twenty islands on the lake, on Mask with Lough Corrib. This river, four
the largest of which, called Inismaan, are miles in length, has apparently only a
the remains of a fort believed to have been course of three quarters of a mile, the re-
built by the King of Connaught, who Avas mainder being underground, and onh^ seen
slain in battle with the people of Ulster or heard at rare intervals. The entrance
in 537. Here also are some ruins of a to the Hole is covered with ferns and moss-
small but beautiful abbey. On the eastern es, which increase the darkness in the in-
shore of the lake opposite this island stand terior with the assistance of a guide, a
;
the ruins of an ancient stronghold of the flight of steps cut in the rock is descended,
Burkes. Here the country is flat and cul- and a platform reached, from which, when
tivated, but on the western shore the lake the eye has become accustomed to the
is bounded by mountains, highest among darkness, the river may be seen. A bunch
which rises Farmnanure, 2218 feet. From of straw is generally lighted, and allowed
Ballinrobe we continue our route to Cong, to float along the stream to show the dif-
passing on our way the ruined mansion ferent windings of its course. There are
of the Lords Kilmaine. Cong Abbey was several other and smaller openings lead-
founded as early as the 7th century, al- ing to this river, in one of which, called
though no remains are now to be seen of the Horse's Discovery, there are stalactites.
more ancient date than the 12th or 13th Continuing our route from Cong, we
century. Of
these the gateway is per- cross the OwenduflT, near the ruins of Ross
haps the The architecture is
finest part. Abbey, and reach Headford, a small town
of the decorated Norman style, and bears belonging to Mr. St. George, whose resi-
evidence to the splendor which once exist- dence is in the vicinity. Mr. St. George is
ed here. This was the place to which also the owner of Ross Abbe}'^, which is
Roderick O'Connor, the last of the Irish one of the largest and most beautiful build-
monarchs, retired after his numerous de- ings of the kind in Ireland, dating from
feats, and lived for fifteen yenYS a life of the 15th centur^^ Here the domestic ar-
entire seclusion, dying in 1198. His ashes rangements of the monks are to be studied
86
Clare-Galway. [IRELAND.] Salrock.
in greater detail than in any other of the a distance often miles, strongly resembling
many ruined abbeys. a Norwegian fiord. The following descrip-
After leaving Headford, -vve pass Cregg tion is given by !Mr.A\'illis :
way River, and contains the ruins of a beau- mountains seem to vie with each other
tiful abbey, and an ivy-covered tower or which shall catch and keep your attention
keep of a castle, built by the De Burghs in most. Northward the Fenamore Mount-
the loth century. The abbey dates from ains, the Partree range to the east, Maum-
the 13th century, and was built by John turk to the south a little more to the south-
;
Cogan, a descendant of one of the compan- west the Twelve Pins then a little more
;
ions of Strongbow, The church consists to the west Renvyle Mountain, and to the
of nave, choir, and transepts, with beauti- north of that again the monarch of the
ful intersecting arches supporting a grace- whole amphitheatre, cloud-capped Mewl-
ful tower of three stories, each lighted by rea."
a small square window. A portion of the A boat may be engaged at Leenane to
abbey has been restored, and is now used row the length of the Killery, turning at
by some monks of the order to which the the entrance into the Little Killery, at the
building originally belonged. head of which is Salroch. From the Pass
From here the road continues through of Salrock, which, according to tradition,
a desolate-looking district until we reach was formed by the struggles of St. Roc
Galway. (See Koute No. 19.) (who had been chained while asleep by the
devil, but who nevertheless made his way
through the heart of the mountain b}' his
miraculous exertions), a most glorious pan-
orama spreads before the eye, stretching
over the Killerv and portions of the At-
lantic, with here and there a verdant isl-
and. A car should be sent from Leenane
to meet the tourist at Salrock, who may
then return by the wild and beautiful glen
of Lough Fee.
ROUTE No. 23. From Leenane a road diverges to Tuam,
WestpoH to Leenane and the Killery, by via Maum and Cong, and another runs in
mail-car. Twenty miles. the direction of Galwaj.
This drive is one of the most beautiful
and interesting to be taken in Ireland.
The road follows the course of the Erive,
through dark ravines and precipitous glens,
where the river forms a succession of cas-
cades and rapids most lovely to behold.
Croagh Patrick, a mountain 2510 feet high,
is a conspicuous object in the landscape.
Before reaching Leenane, the road runs
around the head of tlie Killery, a name
given to an arm of the sea, which runs in-
land to the verv heart of the mountains for
8>
Longford. [IRELAND.] KAGHLY.
Island, are some interesting ecclesiastfcal
ROUTE No. 24. ruins ; wooded hills rise on every side, in
Dublin to Sligo, viaMullingar, Carrick. some places abruptly, in others sloping
and Boyle, bv rail. Time, 5 lirs. 40 min. gently down to the water's edge, and af-
fare, £1 55. 2d. fording every variety of scenery to delight
For this route as far as Mullingar, see the lover of nature's beauties.
Route No. 19, by the Midland Great "S^'est- A greater portion of the lake belongs to
ern Railway. At Mullingar a branch line the estate of Hazlewood, the seat of Mr.
strikes off to Sligo, on which Longford is W^'une. From Knocknarea, an isolated
the first station of importance. Edge worths- limestone hill rising 1078 feet on the west
town, passed eight miles before reaching of Sligo, a tine view may be obtained over
Longford, derives its name from the Edge- land and sea a large tumulus is to be seen
;
is next reached (see Route No. 15). Forty Sligo to Londonderry, via Ballyshannon,
minutes' ride now brings us to Sligo, situ- j
Donegal, andStrabane, by mail-car, lOhours
ated on the Bay of Sligo, and containing a j
to Strabane, thence by rail to LondondeiTy.
population of 9340. It is the most impor- Sligo (see Route No. 24). The road from
tant town in the west of Ireland, after Gal- t
Sligo runs between the sea and a range of
way, and, although not remarkable for its mountains, and after crossing the Elsinore
cleanliness, possesses good quays, large promontory reaches Drumcliff, where por-
warehouses and market -houses, together I
tions of a round tower are to be seen, as
with several breweries and a large distill- well as two ancient crosses, all that now
GXY. Hotel, Imperial. The River Gar- remain of a monastery founded here in 590
voge, by means of which the waters of j
b}' St. Colomb. A road leads off from here
Lough Gill enter the bay, runs through the to the left toward Lissadill and Raghly.
town. In the portion of the town which Lissadill is the seat of Sir Robert Gore
belonged to the late Lord Palmerston are Booth, the residence of whose ancestors,
situated the carefully preserved ruins of a Ardtermon Castle, stands nearer to Ragh-
splendid abbey founded in the 14th century ly. The coast along here presents a scene
by Maurice Fitzgerald. Notice here a of great desolation, owing to the drifting
carved -stone window above the altar, as sands, which have gradually covered hun-
well as a monument, in good preservation, dreds of fertile acres, and in which the ru-
of one of the O'Connors; on this the in- ins of an ancient church and many habita-
ccriptions are still legible. One of Sligo's tions now stand imbedded. Of late years
cliief attractions to travelers is its contig- only some endeavors have been made to
uit}" with one of the loveliest lakes in Ire- check the progress of this devastation.
land, viz.. Lough Gill. The lake is best Near Raghly is a singular deep cavity
reached bj- taking a boat up the River Gar- called the Pigeon-hole, into which the sea
voge it is live miles in length, and about
: rushes with great force at high tides by
one and a half in breadth, with numerous means of several subterranean channels.
islands, on the largest of Avhich, Church Regaining the main route, the traveler see?
88
BUNDORAN. [IRELAND.] Strabaxe
about four miles off Streedagh Point the Ballintra a locality called the Pullins,
is
island of Inismurray, on which are some where the Ballintra Kiver cuts througli a
ecclesiastical ruins of great antiquity in- bed of solid limestone to a depth of thirty
closed in a stone fort. to forty feet, and flows for a considerable
Cliffony, belonging to the estate of the distance through this narrow fissure, some-
late Lord Palmerston, is next reached. times disappearing in caves, and only bound-
Here the care taken by that noljleman in ing forth into scenes of gi-eater grandeur
improving the condition of his tenants -will and magnificence.
be immediately remarked, there being an Donerjdl is a small town situated at the
air of comfort and cleanliness often found head of Donegal Bay, and at the mouth of
wanting on other estates. From here the the River Esk. Little trade is carried on
Toad hugs the coast as far as Bundoran. here, owing to numerous shoals in the har-
This is a favorite {dace of summer resort bor. Here the ruined castle of the O'Don-
for the people of Enniskillen ; it is beauti- nolls is the principal object of interest.
fulh^ situated on the shores of Donegal It is now the property of the Earl of Ar-
Bay, the of which present many nat-
cliffs ran. Near the river are also the remains
ural beauties, having been worn by the ac- of a Franciscan abbey, founded by Hugh
tion of the sea into most extraordinary Roe, son of O'DonnelJ, in 1474. Here the
forms the most noticeable of these is the
; famous '"Annals of the Four Masters,"'
Fairy Bridge, consisting of a single arch sometimes known as the "Annals of Don-
twenty -four feet in span, most perfectly egal," were compiled.
formed, and entirely without support. An excursion may be made from here
Ballyshannon, four miles distant, is situ- to Kilhjbegs, a small sea-port, containing
ated on a steep hill overlooking the Erne, some slight vestiges of an ancient church
which is here crossed by a bridge of sixteen and castle. The driv3 to this town is very
arches at a short distance above the celebra- beautiful.
ted falls of Salmon Leap. The height of the Continuing our route to Strabane, the
cliff over which the river falls is thirty road takes us through the Gap of Barnes-
feet —
ten feet above high water. Here the more, a magnificent mountain pass, past
salmon, which drop down the river in Au- Lough Mourne and its castle, to Ballybofey
gust and September, return in the spring and Stranolar, the latter place being con-
months. " This can only be accomplished nected with Strabane by the Finn Valley
by an ascent of the fall at Ballyshannon. Railroad.
Traps are laid in different parts of the fall, Strabane is town of 4G15 inhab-
a small
with funnel-shaped entrances, into which itants, Mourne, near its
situated on the
the salmon swim, and are preserved until junction with the Finn, and belonging to
required for the market intervals are also
; the Marquis of Abercorn. Hotel, A bercom
left between the traps, through which the A rms. Flax is raised here in large quan-
fish reach the top of the fall b}'' a spring tities, and the town contains one of the
of at least fourteen feet in height, though best linen markets in the north of Ireland.
it is at low water that the scene of leaping Trade is carried on by means of a short
is displayed with the greatest activitv." canal running to the navigable portion of
Wright. the Foyle. Although a clean and well-
Of the Castle of Ballyshannon few traces built place, there is little to detain the trav-
now remain numerous Danish raths may
; eler on his route to Londonderry, which is
be seen, however, in the northern part of reached from here by rail in forty minutes.
the town, in the parish of Kilbarron. To Londonderry, which contiiins a popula-
the northwest are the ruins of Kilbarron tion of 20,51'J inhabitants, is beautifully
Castle, situated on a precipitous rock over- situated on the west bank of the River
looking the sea. This was an ancient Foyle, five miles distant above its entrance
stronghold of the O'Clerys, so renowned into Lough Foyle. Principal hotels. Im-
in history, science, and poetry. The lead- perial and Commercial. The city is well
er of the illustrious Four Masters was built, lighted, and paved. In the centre
Father Michael O'Cler}'-, of this family. is a square called Diamond, from each side
From
here to Donegal the route is dreary of which a handsome street leads to the
and uninteresting. Near the village of four principal gates of the citv. The sub-
89
Londonderry. [IRELAND.] Enniskillen.
Yihich it withstood the siege of King Time, 7 hrs. 12 min. fare, £1 Q>s.
,
;
ant nobleman— Earl of Mount Alexander Cavan is reached by a branch line of the
—that on a certain day all the Protestants Midland Great Western Railway iu 1 hr.
in Ireland were to be murdered by the 45 min. from Mullingar. This is a small
Catholics, in accordance with an oath they town containing 3389 inhabitants, with but
had all taken, and that a captain's com- little to interest the traveler. Clones is an
mission would be the reward of the party ancient town, situated on a steep hill, at
|
that murdered him^ he gave the alarm, the foot of which lie the ruins of an abbey
which spread to Derry. While the be- dating from the 6th centur}'. Here also
'
wildei-ed citizens ran through the strests, is a round tower, minus its top, with a
j
some dozen of the apprentice-boys seized roughly built exterior, but of smooth lime-
the keys, and just as Lord Antrim's troops stone in the interior. On the summit of
reached the Ferry Gate, drew it up, with the hill is a line church, situated on the
some slight resistance from the guard. market-place, and an ancient cross in rath-
I
They sustained the siege for 105 days, and er good preservation, called the " Cross of
were reduced to the extremity of eating Clones." Population 2150.
dogs and rats. A boom was placed across EnnisJiillen, one of the prettiest places in
the river to prevent supplies from reach- Ireland, is next reached. It is the county
ing there. One of the supply friLrates, town of Fermanagh (population 6152), and
;
"dashed with giant strength against the Erne. Hotels, Imperial and White Hart.
j
barrier, and broke it in two, but from the This town has a thriving, business-like ap-
[
violence of the shock rebounded and ran pearance not often seen in Ireland it con-
,
upon the river's bank. The satisfaction sists principalh' of one long street, with
j
of the eneni}' Avas displayed by an instan- clean, well-built houses, and possesses, be-
taneous burst of tumultuous joy. They sides the usual buildings of a countj^ town,
ran with disorder to the shore, prepared to the Royal School of Portora, founded hy
j
board her, when the vessel, firing a broad- Charles I., and two small forts. Cutlery
i
side, was extricated b}' the shock, and and straw plait are the principal manufact-
j
floated out nobly into the deep again." It ures, in which a considerable trade is car-
j
is said over 2000 died by famine during ried on by means of a railway, communica-
the siege. The principal buildings are the tion with the sea being obstructed b}' the
Cathedral and Bishop's Palace. The for- Falls of Ballyshannon, which occur be-
;
mer is a handsome Gothic edifice, from the tweon the lower lake and Donegal Bay.
top of which is obtained a fine view of the The banners borne b}^ the people of En-
;
city and the surrounding country. The niskillen at the Battle of the Boyne are
,
Cathedral contains the colors taken at the preserved in the town -hall. From the
j
siege of Derr}- also a handsome monument summit of a hill above the railway sta-
,
to Bishop Knox. The chief ornament of tion, on which stands a column erected in
the city is the fluted column erected to the memory of Sir Lowry Cole, a fine view of
memory of its heroic defender, Rev. George the town and island may be obtained.
Walker. Enniskillen is a good point from which
Steamers to Glasgow, 5 times weekly; to make the tour of Loughs Erne, Avhich
time, one night fare, 125. 6J.
; may be done either b}"^ steamer, boat, or by
Londonderry to BeJfast, by rail, in 3 h. stage-car from here to Ballj^shannon. The
25 m. ;
to London, via Holyhead, in 18|^ River Erne first rises in Lough Gowna,
hrs.; fare, £3 10s. \—to Dublin^ in bj hrs. and, passing through Lough Oughter, ex-
(Route 27). pands some miles below Belturbet into a
large sheet of water called the Upper Lake.
90
1
1
Devekish Island, [IRELAND.] Kewtowx-Stewart,
Here the scenery rather tame, until
is Dublin to MuUingar (see Route No. 19).
at Belleisle the waters again take the form Mullingar to Clones (see Route No. 26).
of a river, and flow for ten miles through Armaf/h, passed on tlie road from Port-
a most lovely country, their course inter- adown to Clones, is a cathedral city, cele-
rupted by numerous small and verdant brated in ancient times, but with little now
islands, of which the lake contains over to show in proof of that celebrity. A
one hundred. From Enniskillen the Low- church was founded here by St, Patrick
er Lake extends about twenty miles in a in the 5th century, around which a city
westerly direction, until, just before reach- quickly grew, only to be subjected to num-
ing Belleek, the waters are again contract- berless misfortunes after being repeated-
:
ed into a narrow space, and fall from a ly plundered and burned by the Danes, it
height of fourteen feet, from which point was set on fire by O'Neil, a native chief-
to Ballyshannon the river forms a series tain, in 1566, when the church was com-
of rapids. pletely destroyed. The city is prettily
The largest and most interesting isle of situated on the sides of a steep hill, on the
the Erne archipelago is Devenish Island, summit of which stands the Cathedral, a
containing about eighty acres of land. I
cruciform church with a low tower, former-
Here stand the ruins of two churches at- j
ly surmounted by a spire. Armagh is the
tributed to St. Molaisse, who lived in the county town, and contains about 89i6 in-
Cth century. Of these, the upper church habitants.
or abbey is in much the best state of Oinagh, the county town of Tyrone, and
preservation and, having been frequently
; containing 3661 inhabitants, is situated on
plundered by tlie Danes, it was probably a steep hill overlooking the railway it :
rebuilt in the 12th century. the lower Of contains little that need detain the travel-
church only a portion of the walls remain. er. From here to Strabane the railway
In its vicinity is a small stone-roofed build- follows the course of the River Strule,
ing called the Cell of St. Molaisse, which passing on tlie left bank Xewtown- Stewart,
strongly resembles St. Kevin's Kitchen at j
formerh^ an important military' station,
Glendalough. A
round tower, seventy with the name of Lislas. It was granted
feet high, stands in the northern part of by Charles I. to Sir William Stewart, from
the island. The door is situated nine feet whom modern name is derived. A
its
from the ground, and is reached by three i
house isshown in the main street in
still
steps made in the stones it is lighted bj'
;
j
which James II. slept on his way to Lon-
the usual four windows, with a keystone donderry, after which the town was burned
ornamented with grotesque heads above by his order, and not rebuilt until 1722.
each. The conical roof has been restored. Near the town, on the summit of a hill,
The drive from Enniskillen to Bally- stands an old ruin called Harry Ivery's
shannon runs through scenery as lovely as castle.
any to be seen in the world, and, should For the continuation of this route from
time permit, we would advise proceeding Strabane to Londonderry, see Route No.
by car to Ballyshannon instead of by rail.
Ballyshannon (see Route No, 25).
antly situated on the River Boyne, and I in the north of Ireland, forms the staple of
contains ncarlj' 15,000 inhabitants. Im- Drogheda. The Earl of Desmond, Lord
perial Hotel the best. There is but little Chief Justice of Ireland, was beheaded here
to detain the traveler here, if we except in 1467 for kindness shown toward the
the ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary d'Urso Irish people.
and the abbey of the Dominicans even ; A visit (if stopping at Drogheda) should
these are difficult to see from their position. be made to Mellifont Abbey, distance five
The spinning of flax is now the principal miles, and Monastcrloice, six miles distant.
occupation of the inhabitants. The River The round tower of this last dates from the
Boyne is here crossed by a magnificent 9th centurj'. There are some fine antique
bridge, from which a fine view may be crosses here, the largest of which is twen-
had.' ty-seven feet high, and contains a Gaelic
The Boj'ne is celebrated in history, the inscription concerning Muredach, a king of
banks being the battle-ground where the Ireland who died in 531.
forces of James II. and those of his son- Wenext approach Bundalk, a manufact-
in-law, William, Prince of Orange, met uring town of 11,327 inhabitants. Its prin-
July 1st, 1690. The engagement is known cipal trade is in flax and corn. Arthur''
as the " Battle of the Bojme." The forces Hotel the best. Dundalk is noted foi- the
were equall}' divided, 30,000 on a side. sieges it sustained from Edward Bruce in
The prince was the victor. James fled to I
1316, from the O'Neils, and from Lord In-
France, and the victory secured to the coun- 1 chiquin in 1640. Edward Bruce was here
try liberty, law, and religion. The brave i
crowned king of Ireland. He resided in
Duke of Schomberg, who commanded the j
Dundalk for two years, and was killed
prince's forces, was killed on the field near the town in an engagement with the
I
see the monument erected to his memory. : English. After Scotland had gained her
Kohl says " James displayed but little
: : independence at Bannockburn, the Irish
courage in this memorable battle. He invited Edward, brother of Robert Bruce,
abandoned the field even before the bat- to take possession of the crown of Ireland.
tle was decided, and made a ride of un- He was the monarch, and Dundalk was
last
exampled rapidity through Ireland. In a the last town
in Ireland where a monarch
few hours he reached the castle of Dublin, was crowned. The town has a fine park,
and on the following day he rode to Wa- and Dundalk House and grounds, the resi-
terford, a distance of 100 miles. Xever- dence of Lord Roden, are open to visitors.
theless, James sought to throw the blame Fift^'-eight miles more and we arrive at
of the whole defeat on the Irish. On ar- Belfast, the metropolis of the north of Ire-
riving at the castle of Dublin, he met the land. Different from most cities of Ire-
Lady Tyrconnel, a woman of ready wit, to land, shows a continued increase in pop-
it
the Irish, can run very fast, it must be 1871 it amounted to 174,394.
owned.' 'In this, as in every other re- Hotel Imperial, one of the best in Irel md,
spect, your majesty surpasses them, for and best in Belfast, ably conducted by Mr.
you have won the race,' " w^as the merited Jury, the proprietor.
rebuke of the lady. The day after the bat-
tle Drogheda opened its gates to the En- The whole city of Belfast, whose popu-
glish army. It is one of the many towns lation and prosperity have so rapidly in-
which experienced the rigor of Cromwell's creased, stands on the territory of the Mar-
r.everitj^ during the merciless campaign of quis of Donegal, to whose ancestors it was
1G50, nearty the entire garrison, wdth great awarded by James I. Avhen Belfost was a
numbers of the inhabitants, having been small village, and formerly returned that
put to the sword after a successful siege. nobleman a million and a half of dollars
One hundred of the inhabitants having per annum. Belfast is a great seat of both
taken shelter in St. Peter's Church steeple. linen and cotton manufactures. It pos-
Cromwell ordered it to be fired, and burned sesses a large foreign trade, as well as ex-
them up. The slaughter was continued tensive intercourse with the ports of the
for five days. Scotch and English coast, especially with
The linen trade, which is very extensive Liverpool, to which it sends great quantir
92
Belfast. [IRELAND.] Oave Hill.
ties of cattle and agricultural produce. ment to visit is that of Mr. 3Iichael An-
The city has a cheerful aspect the streets drews, at Ardoyne, about one mile out of
:
are wide and -well paved, and the houses the city. The whole establishment may
mostly of brick, and well built, Belfast be seen between 10 and 12 and 3 and 5 ev-
contains an important collegiate establish- ery day of the week. Here many of the
ment, entitled the Belfast Academical In- first families in Europe have their coats of
stitution, and is also the seat of the queen's arms drawn and woven in their napkins,
colleges. One of the most elegant edifices table-cloths, etc. The proprietor allows
in the town, finished in the Italian style, no gratuity to be received by the persons
is that which contains the offices of the showing the establishment.
harbor commissioners it has a fine clock-
: Travelers should also extend their visit
tower, and the whole building is construct- to Cave Hill, about two miles, whence a
ed of cut stone. The first Bible that was most glorious panoramic view may be ob-
ever printed in Ireland was published at tained of the surrounding country. The
—
Belfast the printing of this volume did hill takes its name from three caves, which
not occur, however, until 1794; no print- may be seen on its perpendicular face. On
ing-press was brought here until 169G, Ire- its summit is an earthwork, which Avas one
land being far behind even liussia in this of the strongholds of Brian M'Art, whose
respect. The puljlic buildings are mostly clan was exterminated in the reign of
of modest appearance. The Commercial Queen Elizabeth.
Buildings contain handsome reading- Belfast to London, via Fleetwood; time,
rooms, well furnished with newspapers. 18^ h.; fare, £2 os. ;— to Liverpool ; time,
The Bank of Belfast presents in its stjde 141 h. fare, 16s. •,—to Manchester; time,
;
of architecture a mixture of Doric and Co- 14 h. 25 m. fare, 185. ;—to Leeds ; time,
;
rinthian, and is quite attractive in its ap- 17 h. 5 m. fare, £1 35. Qd. ;—to Birming-
;
pearance. The First Presbyterian Meet- ham; fare, £1 ds. time, 16 h. 20 m. (sea ;
of ten Doric columns, Avith an elaliorate Liverpool; time, lb\ h. fare, £1 to Mem- ;
;
balustrade, renders the exterior worthy of chester; time, 16 h. 40 m. fare, £1 35. ;—to ;
The Belfast Museum contains a large col- (sea passage, 7^^ h.). Dep. 5 P.M.
lection of Irish antiquities, and the build- Belfast to London, via Kingstou-n and
ing is rich in design and execution. The Holyhead ; time, 15^ h. fare, £3 55. 6d. ;
sesses many advantages over the latter. Lublin to and ejrcursions in the
Kingstoicn,
The flax-mills of Belfast are perhaps the vicinity, by rail. Time, 30 minutes f;ire, I5. ;
most interesting sights in the city one of; Trains run every half hour between
each kind should be visited, that is, those Westland Row and Kingstown from 6
worked by steam and by hand. The lar- A.M. until 11.30 P.M., stopping at Boot-
gest steam-mill is that of the ^Messrs. Mul- erstown, Blackrock. Seapoint, and Salt-
hoUand, who, it is said, directly and indi- hill. For description of the seaport of
rectly, emplo}' twenty -five thousand men ;
Dublin, see Route No. 10.
but the finest linen and damask is only Kingstou-n to Holyhead, by boat, in 4 J h.
made by hand, and the process of forming fare, 125.
and weaving the different patterns is de- Mail boats leave at 7 A.:M. and 7.15 P.IM.
cidedly interesting. The best establish- (see Holyhead, Route 87).
93
Castle-Blayxey. [IRELAND.] COLERAIXE.
Dundalk to EfmisJciUen, via Castk-Blayney ish Islands, and onlv surpassed in size by
and Clones, by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 30 min. that of Geneva in Switzerland, and Lado-
;
the entire extent of Lough Muckno and quered or settled, it was permitted to the
its prettj" islands, and is charmingly plant- person Avho should first touch the ground
ed, beeches and walnuts predominating. that he should be its chief. O'Neil, who
The ruins of an ancient castle are to be was one of the party that first approached
j
seen on one of the islands in the lake. Bal- the shore, cut off his hand and threw it on
]
hjhay, a small town situated in a valley, the bank, thereby first touching the ground,
'
and principally engaged in the linen trade, and from this individual sprung the royal
is reached after skirting the base of several race. The waters of Lough Xeagh are cel-
hills. Passing through Xewbliss, the Riv- ebrated for their healing of scrofulous dis-
er Finn is crossed, from -which point to eases, and for their petrifying properties,
Clones the line runs through a most beau- requiring but a few years to turn wood
tiful tract of country. For description of into stone.
Clones, and route from Clones t6 Enniskil- Thirty-six miles more, and we reach Co/e-
len, see Route No. 26. raine, which contains 6399 inhabitants. It
is a place of great antiquity, but there is
nothing of interest to be seen. Here trav-
elers to the Giant's Causeway change cars
1 for Portrush, Avhich is but 20 minutes dis-
tant from Coleraine. Carriages ma}- be
had at the station or hotel to convey tour-
ists to the Causeway. (See Route No. 35.)
Coleraine is beautifully situated on the
River Bann, which is noted for its fine trout
and salmon fishing; this is best obtained
ROUTE No. 31. between Kilrea and Toom, Avhere the river
Belfast to Londond-erry^via Antrim and makes a fall OA^er a ledge of rocks thirteen
Coleraine (branch to Portrush and Giant's '
ler}'. Twelve miles, and we arrive at An- j ruined stronghold of the O'Doughertvs.
94
Magilugan. [IRELAND.] Caledon,
The following description is given by- ! I., the grounds of which are open to the
Mr. Fraser of MagiUirjun : " A singular public.
combination of picturesque beauty and j
Between Lisburn and Moira the line
grandeur presents itself at Magilligan. passes the Maze, a common where the Hills-
Here the cliffs, every where striliing, in- borough races are run. Moira once boast-
crease in altitude, and the pastoral banks '
ed a round tower sixty feet in height, which
which they cap are here much more varied has unfortunately fallen to the ground.
by verdant knolls, sylvan dells, and ter- ! Near it stand the remains of an old church,
raced platforms. High on one of the lat- Lurgau is the last station before reaching
ter, with several cottages, stands the church Portddown, an important railway junction,
of Magilligan, one of the most singularly whence the Dublin and Belfast, Clones,
and romantically situated of all our sacred Ulster, and Dungannon lines all radiate.
edifices. Overhung by the towering cliffs, This town is situated on the Bann, and
and looking across the sandy plain, suc- contains about G735 inhabitants, who carry
ceeded by an arm of t-^e sea, and termi- on an extensive trade in linen and agri-
nated by the lofty mountains of Inishowen, cultural products.
few situations are better calculated to ex- Arrnar/h is reached in thirty minutes
cite emotions allied to devotional feelings from Portadown. (See Route No. 27.)
— the feelings in unison with all around." situated on the
Killyleacjh, beautifully
At Bellarena, the first station on the shores of Lough Strangford, is renown-
main line after Magilligan, the cliff scenery ed as being the birthplace of Sir Hans
ends, and the road passes through verdant Sloane, the founder of the British Museum.
pastures, many of which have been re- On the summit of a hill, back of this town,
claimed from the encroachments of the stands an ancient castle, dating from the
sea. From Culmore the line runs along reign of King John, which has been beau-
the banks of the Foyle until it reaches tifully restored. Caledon. formerly known
Londonderry, already described in Route by the name of Kennard, where in the sev-
No. 25. enteenth century Sir Phelini O'Xeil made
his head-quarters, and defended for several
years the County of Tyrone from the in-
vading English, is the next station. Glass-
lough is passed before reaching 3Ionaghan,
a modern town, containing little to interest
the traveler. Smithborough is the last
station at which the line stops before reach-
ing Clones. For remainder of this route,
see Route No. 26.
95
Newky. [IRELAND.] DUNDRUM.
lieved to date from very ancient times, as lingford Bay presenting the appearance of
an abbey was erected here by Mannie an extensive lake surrounded by woods
MacLoughlin, King of Ireland, in 1157, of and hills. Pretty villas and country-seats
which no traces now remain. Hotels, line the road. On the beach, near Drum-
Victoria and Newry Arms. The town is sisk, stands an obelisk, erected to the mem-
situated on the Newrj'^ River, a few miles ory of General Ross, slain in the battle of
above Carlingford Bay the older portion
; Baltimore, 1814.
stands on the eastern side, in the Count}' Rostrevor is a lovely watering-place, shel-
of Down, and is built on a hill, upon which tered by high hills and shady woods. Here
the streets rise one above the other. The once stood the ancient castle of Rory iPGen-
modern part of the town is situated on the nis, who owned this territory, and in regard
opposite side of the river, in the County of to which Sir Walter Scott wVote the follow-
Armagh, and is connected with the other ing lines
by four stone bridges. The appearance
from a distance is very picturesque, but on "Ah! Clandehoy !thy friendly floor
Slieve-Donard's oak shall light no mora;
nearer approach the beauties fade, and the Nor Owen's harp, beside the blaze.
town may be found rather dull and unin- Tell maiden's love or hero's praise
teresting. Dean Swift gives the following The mantling brambles hide thy hearth,
Centre of hospitable mirth
description of the place :
!
" High church, low steeple, " All undistinguished in the glade
Dirty streets, and proud people." Their sire's glad home is prostrate laid;
Tlieir vassals wander wide and far
The port of Newry is capable of admit- Serve foreign lords in distant war.
And now the strantrers' sons enjoy
ting vessels of 1000 tons, which can not, The lovely woods of (Jlandeboy 1"
however, go farther than Warrenpoint. six
miles from the town those drawing onl}^
; Continuing on our route by car to Down=
fifteen feet of water can reach Newry by Patrick, we pass (15 miles from Newr}')
means of the ship canal. A
considerable Mourne Park, seat of the Earl of Kilmorey,
trade is carried on with England, America, in the grounds of which rises Knockchree,
and the Baltic, and corn and provisions are 1013 feet high, on the summit of which is
largely exported. Steamers ^\y from here an observator3^ Crossing the White Wa-
to Liverpool, 153 miles. The town con- ter, we reach a road leading to Greencas-
tains several fine modern churches there ; tle Point, where stands a massive square
is also a rath, which would interest the tower, erected by the Anglo-Norman bar-
antiquary, situated near Crown Bridge it ons to protect the entrance of Carlingford
;
is surrounded by a ditch 600 feet in cir- Lough. From here we continue to Kilkeel,
cumference. Population 13,397. an unimportant town of some 1100 inhab-
Leaving Newry from Dublin Bridge or itants, and proceed along the coast on a
Edward Street Stations on our way to War- narrow strip of land separating the Mourne
renpoint, Ave pass, four and a half miles. Mountains and the sea until we reach New-
Narrow "Water, where a low rock protrudes castle, situated at the base of Slieve-Do-
into the river, on which is situated an old nard. Yiot^X, Annesley Arms. Population
castle, commanding completely the en- 691. This is a good bathing-place, some-
trance to Newry. It consists of a square times called the Scarborough of Ireland
battlemented tower, believed to have been it possesses a celebrated Spa, about half a
built by the Duke of Ormond in 1663. It mile from the town, on a hill-side adjoining
is the property of Mr. Roger Hall, whose the grounds of Donard Lodge, belonging to
modern Elizabethan mansion stands to the the Earl of Annesley, which are freelj' open-
I'ight of the old castle. ed to the public. The ascent of Slieve-Do-
Warrenpoint, the port of Newry, is a nard, the highest of the Mourne Mountains,
pretty modern town, much frequented for may be made from the Spa Well, The height
bathing purposes. On the opposite side is 2796 feet. Dundrum is passed five miles
of the bay lies the village of Omeath. The on our route from Newcastle, This is a
drive from Warrenpoint to Rostrevor is of small village situated on Dundrum Bay,
unequaled beautv, there being a combina- overlooking which are the keep and out-
tion of mountain and coast scener}',and Car- works of an ancient castle, supposed to have
96
DOWNPATRICK. [IRELAND.] Navan.
been erected by a De Courcy in the 14th 'Waters of Life,' or, as some call it, the
century it was first held b}^ the Templars, Well of Forgetfulness." Beyond the wells,
:
and then passed into the possession of the on the hill of Slieve-na-griddle, is a curious
M'Gennis clan, once so powerful in this Druidical ring, which will interest the an-
part of Ireland. A ruined mansion, dat- tiquary.
ing from the 16th century', stands near
the castle.
From here the direct road to Downpat-
and a half, strikes inland,
rick, eight miles
passing through the village of Clough,
where a single tower of a once powerful
castle now stands.
Doionpatrick is a town of very ancient
wells) "are four in number. The Bodv the round tower of Donaghmore, the ruin-
Well, or Well of Sins, the Limb Well, the ed castles of Scurloughstown and Liscar-
Eye Well, and the Well of Life. If they tion,and the castle and church of Athlum-
pay a fee, they can go into the first, in ney. Near the last-named place a curi-
which they are accommodated with a place ous subterranean passage was discovered
to undress if not, they must go to the during the construction of the railwav
; it :
Limb Well, in which case they have to un- is divided into two branches, each ending
dress before the multitude, and repair in a in a small circular chamber. About four
state of nudity to the well, into which they miles from Trim is Dangan Castk, a place
!
plunge promiscuously. Having thus wash- of considerable interest to the traveler, fid
ed away their sins at the expense of their being the birthplace or early home ©f Wel-
modesty, tliey repair to the Eye Well, to lington and Wellesley. After leaving Na-
wash away the impediments to their spirit- van, the railway turns fiom the Boyne and
:
ual vision after which they partake of the follows the course of the Blackwater.
;
|
Vol. I.-E 97
Kelr3. riRELAND.] Giant's Causeway.
Kelts, ten miles from Navan, was known rive at the Castle of Dunluce, which is con-
as early as the sixth centun', when a mon- sidered one of the most picturesque ruins
aster}' was founded here by St. Columba in the United Kingdom.
;
It stands upon
this was plundered and burned by Dermot an isolated rock 100 feet above the level of
M'Murrough in 1155, and rebuilt by Hugh the sea, and is connected with the main-
de Lacy the following year no traces of this land b}' one of the most narrow bridges one
;
Coleraine to Belfast by the Great Coast mon and trout are delicious.
Road, via the Giant's Causeway. Nearly two miles farther we arrive at
Coleraine is reached from Belfast by the the Giant's Causeway^ the most remarkable
Belfast and Northern Railway (see Route natural curiosity in the country. This ba-
No. 31). Travelers change cars here for saltic promontory, which projects upward
Porirush, the stopping-place for visitors to of a thousand feet into the sea, consists of
the Giant's Causeway, and where one can huge piles of prismatic columns arrant^ed
not only spend days, but weeks to ad- side by side with perfect uniformity. One
vantage. The best hotel in Portrush is might imagine them to be the work of in-
the Antrim Arms, which is one of the best genious artificers, and it is questionable
kept and most reasonable houses not only whether the art of man could rival the nice-
in Ireland, but in the United Kingdom. ty with which each piece is fitted to the
From here travelers make the excursions other. We shall not attempt a scientific
to Dunluce Castle and the Giant's Cause- description of the peculiar formation of this
way. There is a good stable attached to Causeway, nor have we the time nor room
the hotel, where carriages, horses, or jaunt- to embody the theories of the different
in g-cars may be engaged at reasonable learned writers on the subject, few of whom
prices. agree, and none of whose statements are
Portrush is situated on a bold headland, more satisfactory than the romantic stories
with a deep bay on either side, and imme- told by the guide who accompanies you.
diately opposite it is the group of rocky isl- It is said by some leisurely disposed indi-
ands called the Skerries, which form a fine vidual, who has taken the time and pains
breakwater for the harbor. It is an ad- to count them, that we walk over the
mirable bathing-place, and, since the op*^-- heads of some 4000 columns, all beautifully
ing r ? i,he railway, a place of considerable cut and polished, commencing with the tri-
activity. j
angular, or three-sided, and ending with
About two miler from Portrush we ar- I
the nonagon, or nine-sided. Among the
98
Giant's Causeway. [IRELAND.] Rathlin Island.
numerous fabulous objects of interest nothing loth to do, seeing that at that time
which the guide will point out, notice the living in Scotland was none of the best,
Amphitheatre Gateway, Chimney -tops, and every body knows that Ireland was
Pulpit, and Giant's Well, where, if you always the richest country in the world.
drink some of the water (especially if you Since the death of the giants, the Cause-
mix it with "mountain dew," sold there by way, Vjcing no longer wanted, has sunk un-
an old man), and at the same time make a der the sea, only leaving a portion visible
wish, it will surely be verified within the here, a little at the island of Kathlin, and
year. Notice also the Giant's Grandmoth- the portals of the grand gate on StafFa."
er, who was petrified for having three bus- There being no public conveyance from
tinds at the same time. the Causeway, the traveler must take a
Previous to landing at the Causeway, car to follow the coast road, crossing the
j'ou will betaken in a boat to see the caves promontory to Dunseverick, where stand
which lie under the rocks along the coast. a few remains of a once powerful castle be-
[Notice the tariff for boats and guides longing to the M'Quillans. After passing
which is hung up at the hotel, and pay ac- the village of Ballintry, we reach a sin-
cordingly. The boatmen expect a small gular chasm, sixty feet in width, which
fee extra, especially should it be a rough separates the island of Carrick-a-Rede from
day.] The principal cave, and one into the shore. This is spanned by a rude
which the boat can be safely rowed, is bridge, formed of two cables, four feet
Portcoon. It is about half a mile distant apart, upon which planks are lashed to
from the Causewa3\ Into this the sea form a footway : the whole is situated
rushes and recedes with a fearful noise, about 100 feet above the level of the sea,
and the boat is sometimes carried to near- and is provided with hand-ropes, by means
1}' the top of the cave, which is 45 feet of which the peasantry cross fearlessly in
high its length is 350 feet. The Dunker-
: all weathers, often carrying heavy burdens.
ry Cave is over 600 feet long, and about 70 A fine cave in the cliff is passed before
feet high above low water. Its entrance reaching Kenbane Head, on which stand
resembles a Gothic arch, and the rise and the remains of a small castle. Ballycastle.,
fall of the swell is much greater than in three miles farther, contains the remains
the Portcoon Cave, but much more regu- of a stronghold built in 1(509 by M'Don-
lar, owing to its greater depth, and to a nell of Dunluce. From the promontory
nervous person the slow and gradual rising of Fairhead, beyond Ballycastle, an exten-
to the roof is rather exciting. There are sive view may be obtained of the scenery
numerous other caves, which will be point- of Murtough Bay, and including Riithlin
ed out to the traveler as he is rowed past. Island ai:d a part of the coast of Scotland.
One of the former guides at the Causeway Rathlin Islaad is seldom visited, owing
gave the origin of the Causeway in this to the difficulty of effecting a landing dur-
wise: ing westerly gales, which so often prevail
"The giant, Fin M'Coul, in the neiglaborhood.
was the cham-- It possesses, never-
pion of Ireland, and felt very much ag- theless, some very interesting remains,
grieved at the insolent boasting of a cer- among others Bruce's Castle, where Rob-
tain Caledonian giant, who offered to beat ert Bruce long remained concealed, and
all who came before him, and even dared where the celebrated episode of the spider
to tell Fin that if it weren't for the wetting and the web took place.
of himself, he would swim over and give Near Cushendun, the next place on our
him a drubbing. Fin at last applied to Glendun is spanned
route, the valley of
the king, who, not perhaps daring to ques- by a beneath which, at a dis-
fine viaduct,
tion the doings of such a mighty man, gave tance of 80 feet, the Arve Dun or Brown
him leave to construct a causeway right to River takes its course. The ruins of an
Scotland, on Avhich the Scot walked over ancient fortification are to be seen at Cush-
and fought the Irishman. Fin turned out endall. Here Ossian, the Gaelic Homer,
victor and with an amount of generos- is supposed to have been born. Farther
;
ity quite becoming his Hibernian descent, on we reach Glengariff, a small village sit-
kindly allowed hie former rival to marry uated on one end of Red Bay, at the base
and settle in Ireland, which the Scot was of u glen bearing the same name. Here
99
Routes. [IRELAND.] Routes.
we reach the prettiest part of our route, the by rail ; whole time, 17 h. 45 m. ; fare, first
scener}' of the bay, with its surrounding class, £2 6s. (daily service).
being picturesque in the extreme.
cliffs, Cork to New Milford, Mondays,"W"ednes-
At the entrance of one of the glens that days, and Fridays, about 12 hours. From
break the line of cliffs is the ruin of an New Milford to London, 8 h. 5 m. (daily).
ancient church, containing a tombstone, Fare, first class, single ticket, £2 8s.
whose inscription marks the spot as the Cork London, via Bristol, in 27^ hrs.
to
great Shane O'Neil.
last i-esting-place of the fare, £2 Passage, 24 hrs. rail, 3J hrs.
2s. 6d. ;
Passing Garron Point, where a fine view Cork to Glasgow, stopping at Waterford ;
of the coast of Scotland may be obtained, time, 35 hours fare, 17s. 6J.=$4 37^.
;
and the adjoining rock of Drummaii, crown- Cork to London (the mail route), via Dub-
ed by a fort, we reach Cairnlough, a small lin and Holyhead, the quickest, most lux-
village which has lately assumed some- urious, and most expensive route express ;
same name, and contains something less £3. Passengers leave Dublin (Westland
than 1000 inhabitants. The castle of the Row) for the Packet Pier at Kingstown at
M'Donnell family, Earls of Antrim, stands 6.45 A.M. and 7.30 P.M. The train runs
on the opposite side of the river which pass- directly alongside the packets, which are
es the town it is a modernized building
: probabh^ the tmest eraploA-ed on any Chan-
— something of an architectural curiosity nel route. These are four in number,
and the beauty of its situation, as well as named after the four Irish provinces Ul- :
the magnificence of its deer-park, will well ster, Connaught, Leinster, and Munster; they
repay a visit. The road from here to are so wide and spacious, and move so
Lame runs close to the sea, skirting the swiftly through the water, that but little
Lallagh Brae cliffs, past the ruined castle motion is felt in ordinary weather. The
of the Prince of Breffny. provisions supplied on board are excellent,
At Larne a considerable trade is carried and the attendance good. Fare from Kings-
on in lime, while cotton goods and canvas town to Holyhead, 125. time, 4 J h. The ;
are manufactured to some extent. Near railway carriages are here also brought
the town stands the ruins of OlderfJeet alongside the packet, and transfer effected
Castle, where Bruce landed in 1315 with rapidly (Sleeping-cars, see p. 217).
6000 men, bent upon the invasion of Ire- Dublin to Liverpool, by steamer, four
land. A Druidical altar and rocking-stone times a week; fare, 135. 6d.=^3 37|^ dis- ;
are amongthe interesting antiquities to tance, 138 miles time the advertisements
; —
be seen near the town. The road now fol- say 9 hours, it took the editor 15 This !
lows along the shore of Lough Larne, past line's steamers leave No. 1 Northwall, Dub-
tlie village of Glynn and its ancient lin, and Trafalgar Dock, Liverpool.
church, to Ballycarry and Kilroot. The Lublin to Glasgow, nearly every day
latter place Avas once the parish of Dean fare, 155.=$3 75 time, 15 hours distance, ; ;
Swift. A
short drive from here brings the 223 miles. These steamers call at Greenock.
traveler to Carrickfergus, Avhence he may Dublin to Bristol; fare, £1 45.=$6 time, ;
Circular Tours through Scotland on this tour Stirling, Crieff, from which :
have been arranged by the Caledonian Drummond Castle and its famous gardens
Railway^ giving the time occupied and the may be visited Comrie, St. Fillans, Loch
;
whole expense, with the privilege of break- Earn, along the shore of which the coach
ing the journey at any place on the route. runs about seven miles Ben ^'oirlich (3300 ;
It will be well if the traveler procure the feet). Glen Ogle, tlie Kyber Pass of Scot-
company's time-table book, issued gratis. land Killin, Finlanrig, the mausoleum of
;
We will suppose the tourist's starting-point the Breadalbane family Ben Lawers (3984 ;
is Edinburgh. (The time and expense are feet), guides for the ascent may be ob-
about the same from Glasgow. Tickets tained at Lawers Inn Loch Tay, along ;
available during season.) the shore of which the coach travels about
sixteen miles Kenmore, Taymouth Cas-
;
Lochearnhead. Leave Lochearnhead b}' Time, 2 days fare, from Edinburgh and re-
;
coach at 12.5 P.M. arrive at Crieff, 4.20 turn, £1 155. (Coachman's fees on the Tro-
;
P.M. Leave Crieff by railway at 5.50 ar- sachs and Inversnaid coaches not included.)
;
Passengers going via Callander will ob- to Crieff, 10 A.M. coach to Lochearnhead ;
tain a good view of Ben Ledi (2882 feet), Station, 2.55 P.M. Leave Lochearnhead
the Pass of Leny, Loch Lubnaig, on the Station, 3.42 P.M. railway to Crianlarich, ;
opposite shore of which the chapel of St. 4.29 P.M. Leave Crianlarich next day
Bride will be seen (see Sir "Walter Scott's by coach at 11 A.M. arrive at Ardlui, ;
"Lady of the Lake"), thence past the 12.30 P.5I. by steamer to Inversnaid, 1.50
;
Rob Roy (parties may visit the spot by steamer (Loch Katrine) to Trosachs, 4.25
asking the railway guard to put them down P.]M. Trosachs to Callander by coach, at
;
or take them up at King's House Station). 5.30 P.M. Leave Callander by "rail at 7.30
At Lochearnhead Station tourists join the P.M., and arrive at Edinburgh at 9.55 P.M.
coach, and immediately after starting Glen The following are the places of interest
—
Ogle is seen a wild and narrow defile on this tour Stirling, Crieff, from which
;
;
Ben Voirlich (3300 feet). Loch Earn, along Drummond Castle and gardens may be
the shores of which the coach passes fur visited Comrie, St. Fillans, Loch F2arn,
;
seven miles St. Fillans, Comrie, and Crieff. along which the coach travels seven miles ;
;
From Crieff, Drummond Castle and its Ben Voirlich (3300 feet), Glen Ogle, Glen
famous gardens may be visited. Dochart, and tlie ruins of Dochart Castle,
where Bruce first took refuge after his de-
CIRCULAR TOUR No. 2. feat bj' McDougal of Lorn Ben More ;
Loch Fjirn and Loch Tay. Time, 2 days (3843 feet), guides for the ascent of which
fare from Edinburgh and return, £1 l\s. 9t/., may be obtained at the Crianlarich Hotel
including coachman's fees. Leave Edin- Glen Falloch, Loch Lomond, Ben Lomond
burgh at 7.35 A.M. railway to Crieff, 10 (3192 feet). Loch Katrine, Ben Venue (2386
:
A.M. coach to Lochearnhead Station, 2.55 feet). Loch Achray, Brig of Turk, Loch Ve-
;
101
[CIRCULAR TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND.]
Leave Edinburgh at 7.30 A.M. railway to and Ben Ledi can all be seen. The Tro-
;
Greenock, 10.45 A.M. by steamer to Ar- sachs may be visited by breaking the
;
rochat (Loch Long), 1.20 P.M. coach to journey at Callander, but this is not in-
;
On this tour travelers will obtain a good Loch Gail, Inverary, Dalmally,
Tyndrum,
view of the Clyde, Loch Long, Loch Lo- Callander, and Stirling. Time, 2 days
mond, and Ben Lomond, pass through Glen fare, 335. Leave Edinburgh, 7.30 A.M.
Ealloch by coach to Ben More (3843 feet), railway to Greenock, 10.50 A.M. steam- ;
steamer " Colomba" or " lona" on the Loch Dalmally, Oban, Bal-
Goil, Inverary,
Clyde, through the Kyles of Bute and Loch lachuUsh, and Gkncoe. Time, 3 days fare, ;
chan at its northern end, is not surpassed to Lochgoilhead, 12.30 P.M. Leave Loch-
forits grandeurin Scotland; Dalmally, with goilhead by coach to St. Catharines, 3
its famous ruin of Kilchurn Castle, will well P.M. Inverary Ferry, 3.30.
;
Leave Inver-
repay a visit, and tourists may break the ar}' by coach, 4 P.M. arrive at Dalmally
;
journey to Crianlarich to ascend Ben More at 6.40 P.M. Leave Dalmally next day
(3843 feet), guides for which may be ob- at 1.30 P.M. by coach, and arrive at Oban
tained at Crianlarich Hotel Loch Tay, ; at 5 P.M. Leave Oban next morning at
Loch Earn, Loch Lubnaig, the Braes of 5 A.M. ; steamer to Ballachulish, 7 A.M.
Balquhidder (the burial-place of Rob Roy), Leave Ballachulish at 7.45 A.M. coach to
;
102
[CIRCULAR TOURS THROUGH SCOTLAND.]
Tyndrum, 2 P.M. ; railway to Edinburgh, next day at 10.45 A.M. by coach to Stro-
6.25P.M. nachlacher, 11.45 A.M. steamer on Loch ;
and Dalmally as Tour No. 6. From l3al- Callander, 3 P.M. Leave Callander at 3.45
malh' the coach runs around the base of P.M. railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M.
;
Ben Cruachan and the head of Loch Awe This tour embraces some of the finest
(another good view of Kilchurn Castle is scenery in Stirling, Dumbarton, and Ar-
lierc obtained : tourists wishing to ascend gj'leshire. Most of the places of interest
IJcn Cruachan, 3670 feet, procure a may may be found noted in Tour No. 3.
guide for this purpose at Taynuilt Hotel),
and on through the Brander Pass (scene CIRCULAR TOUR No. 9.
of Sir Walter Scott's " Highland Wid- Ohan. Time, 2 da3'S ; fare, 44*. Zd.
ow "), and along the shores of Loch Etive Leave Edinburgh at 6.30 A.M. railway ;
lish, and through Glencoe, fumed for its of Bute and Crian Canal to Oban, 5 P.M.
wild grandeur thence per rail from Tyn-
; Leave Oban by coach, 8.10 A.M. arrive ;
drum, between which place and Callander at Tyndrum 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum
is Loch Dochart, with the ruins of Dochart at 2 P.M. railway to Edinburgh, 6.25
;
Hotel, and on the way will pass Coircha- Awe, obtaining a good view of the ruins
orach, the birthplace of Rob Roy. Ben of Kilchuni Castle thence past Dalmally,
;
Lawers may be visited by breaking the Glenorchy, and Tyndrum between Tyn- ;
journey at Killin, and the Trosachs b}"^ drum and Callander is Loch Dochart, with
breaking the journey at Callander ; but the ruins of Dochart Castle, where Bruce
the coupons ft)r this tour do not include first took refuge after his defeat b3- McDou-
the necessary fares for these diversions. gal of Lorn Loch Tay, Loch Earn, and
;
Observe " Note" in Route No. 6. Loch Lubnaig, on the opposite shore of
which is seen the chapel of St. Bride (see
CIRCULAR TOUR No. 8.
the "Lady of the Lake''), (jlen Dochart,
Loch Loch Lomond,
Goil, Inverari/, Glencoe, Glen Ogle, one of the wildest in Scot-
Trosachs, Callander, and Stirling. Time, 3 land, the Braes of Balquhidder, where
days fare, 355. (not including coachman's
; Rob Roy is buried (parties may visit the
fees on Trosachs and Inversnaid coaches). spot by arranging with the railway guard
Leave Edinburgh at 7.30 A.M. railway ; to set them down or take them up at
to Greenock, 10.50 steamer to Lochgoil-
; King's House Station) the Pass of Leny,
;
not include the necessary fares for these Leave Banavie next dav at 8 A.M. ar- ;
William, 8 P.M. Leave Fort William next Glasgow, via Perth, Forres, Pitlochrie, and
morning at 5.30 A.M. by coach to Tyn-
; Dunkeld, Perth and Stirling may be vis-
drum, 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum at 2 ited, and the railway passes through the
P.M.; railway to Edinburgh, G.25 P.M. famous Pass of Killiecrankie.
This tour embraces most of the scenery Passengers may break the journey at
descrii)ed in Tour No. 9 but passengers,
; Oban and and lona, or at Bal-
visit StafFa
instead of traveling by coach between lachulish and visit Glencoe.
Oban and Tyndrum, proceed to Fort Will-
iam by steamer, and return to Tyndrum, CIRCULAR TOUR No. 13.
via Glencoe, or vice versa.For objects of Callander, Trosachs, Loch Lomond, Invera-
interest passed during the remainder of ry, Loch Awe, Dalmally, Chan, Fort Wil-
the tour, see Route No. 9. liam, Glencoe, and Tyndrum. Time, 4 days ;
days; fare, 74s. 6c7. Leave Edinburgh, 8.35 nachlacher (on Lake Katrine), 12.15 P.M.
A.M. railway to Tyndrum, 1.15 P.M.
; coach to Inversnaid, 1.20 P.M. Invers- ;
coach from Tyndrum, 1.30 P.M. arrive at naid to Tarbet (on Loch Lomond), 2 P.M.
;
Oban 7 P.M. Leave Oban next day at Leave Tarbet next day by coach at 10.30
5 P.M. by steamer arrive at Banavie 8.20 A.M.; arrive at Oban 8.30 P.M.
; Leave
P.M. Leave Banavie at 8 A.M. through Oban next dav at 7.45 A.M. steamer to ;
the Caledonian Canal to Inverness at 4.45 Ballachulish,l P.M. to Fort William, 2 P.M. ;
P.M. Leave Inverness next day by rail, Leave Fort AVilliam at 5.30 A.M. coach ;
6.30 A.M. arrive at Aberdeen li.50 A.M. to Tyndrum, 1.45 P.M. Leave Tyndrum,
;
Leave at 12.23 P.M. by railway arrive 2 P.M. railway to Edinburgh, 6.25 P.M.
; ;
54. Loch Lomond to Glencoe, p. 144. 68. Edinburgh to Dundee and St. Andrews,
55. Dunkeld to Crieff, via Aberfeldy, Ken- via Dunfermline, p. 177.
more (Taymouth Castle, the residence of 69. Perth to Montrose, via Dundee, p. 178.
the Marquis of Breadalbane), Killin, and 70. Glasgow or Oban to Portree (Island of
Lochearnhead, p. 145. Skye), Gairloch, Auchnasheen, and Invtr~
56. Inverary to Oban, by Loch Awe, p. ness (a new and magnificent route), p.
47. 180.
57. Glasgow to the Island of Skye, Gair- 71. Oban to Loch Scavaig and Coolin
loch, and Stornoway (on the Island of mils, p. 181.
Vol. I.—E 2 105
Geography. [SCOTLAND.] History.
Scotland is the northern division of the seventeen in breadth, and is the most high-
island of Great Britain, and yvas the Cale- ly cultivated land in Scotland; it forms
donia of the Romans, that is, that portion the eastern termination of the Highlands,
which lies north of the Firths of Forth and and is rich in crops of barley and other
Clyde, from which name the inhabitants grain.
were called Caledonians, afterward changed The islands of Scotland are one of the
to Picts. The surface of Scotland is the principal features of the countrj^, occupy-
most varied and irregular of any countrj^ ing as they do nearly a seventh of its ter-
in Europe. The mainland consists of ritory they are divided into four groups
;
twenty- six thousand one hundred and the Hebrides, or Western Islands, the Ork-
twenty-one square miles, with nearly five ney Islands, the Shetland Islands, and the
hundred square miles of fresh-water lakes. islands of the Firth of Clyde. The Hebrides
Added to this, the area of the Shetland Isl- are divided into Inner and Outer Hebrides.
ands, 880 square miles, the Hebrides, 2580, Those adjacent to the mainland, such as
the Orkneys, 440, and the islands in the Skye, Mull, Islay, and Jura, are designated
Firth of Clyde, 165, make a total of 30,686 as the Inner, and those situated to the west
square miles. About one third of the land of the channel of the Minsh, and which
is arable, and is divided into Highlands form a continuous group, such as Lewis,
and Lowlands. The former includes the Harris, North Uist, South Uist, and Ben-
Hebrides, Orkney, and Shetland Islands, becula, are called the Outer. The most
with the most northern counties. The Low- westerly, 180 miles from the nearest land,
lands, although comparatively level, em- is Rockall, which is uninhabited.
brace considerable mountainous country, The Orkney Islands are divided from the
and are only low when compared with the mainland by the Firth of Pentland they ;
northern portion. The climate of Scotland are sixty-seven in number. The principal
is very variable by reason of its seaward are Pomona, North and South Ronaldsha,
exposure, but neither its cold nor heat is so and Hoy over half of them are uninhab-
;
tries. The most celebrated of the mount- The Shetland Islands number over one
ains of Scotland is the chain situated in hundred the principal are Mainland, Yell,
;
the Highlands called the Grampian, Avhich Fetlar, Whalsay, and Unst. About fifty
commences near Loch Etive in Argyleshire, of these are inhabited.
and terminates near the mouth of the Dee The Islands in the Firth of Clyde are Ar-
on the eastern coast. The highest mount- ran (the property of the Duke of Hamil-
ain is Ben Nevis, separated from the Gram- ton), Bute, Great and Little Cumbray, and
pians only by the moor of Rannoch. It is Ailsa.
4406 feet above the level of the sea. The Scotland is rich in coal and iron the
;
principal rivers are the Forth, Tay, Tweed, coal-fields cover a surface of one thousand
Spey, and Clyde. The Tweed, toward its square miles, and are especially rich in the
debouche, forms the boundar}^ between En- neighborhood of Glasgow, where iron ship-
gland and Scotland. The most celebrated building is carried on to a great extent,
of the Scottish lakes are Lochs Lomond, nearly all the ships buUt for Great Brit-
Etive, Long, Fyne, Awe, Lochy, Eil, Ness, ain being constructed on the Clyde, as well
and Katrine, not forgetting the lovely lit- as many for foreign markets. The linen
tle lake of Oich on the way to Inverness, and cotton manufactures of Scotland are
which for Alpine grandeur and sylvan also very extensive.
beauty isunsurpassed in Europe. The population, according to the census
The chain of the Grampian Mountains of 1881, was 3,734,370.
stretches across Scotland in the direction of
east and west, the eastern range terminating
in a long and narrow plain before it arrives The original inhabitants of Scotland be-
at the North Sea ; this plain, which takes longed without doubt to the Celtic race.
a southwest direction, is called Strathmore, The earliest authentic information given is
has a total length of about eighty miles b}'^ by Tacitus, who recorded the campaigns of
106
History. [SCOTLAND.] History.
Agricola, which were commenced A.D. 78. conquer the Caledonians, building his im-
It took two campaigns to subdue that por- mense wall close to Hadrian's, from the
tion of Scotland which lies south of the Solway to the Tyne, known as the "\\'all
Firths of Forth and Clyde. In A.D. 80 of Severus, showing by that fact how hope-
the same general occupied the third year less he thought the task of conquering the
of his campaign in laying waste the Cale- Caledonians ; and few people can boa^t
donian territory as far as the River Tay such noble resistance to retain the liberty
his fourth summer was occupied in settling of their country.
the parts overrun. There is no question but that the Picts
In the sixth year of Agricola's cam- and Caledonians were the same people.
paigning he went north of the Forth with In A.D. 114 the Romans sent a legion
the Ninth Legion, which was nearly anni- from Gaul to aid the Britons against the
hilated by the Caledonians. Caledonian Picts. Four years later the
In A.D. 84 the whole Roman fleet was Romans left South Britain, after an ag-
sent north to plunder the country, preceded gression in the land of Gaul which lasted
by the army. The Caledonians united un- 330 years.
der their king, and the terrible battle of The Irish Scots made the first permanent
"Mons Grampius" was fought; but al- settlement in Scotland under Fergus McEre
though the Romans were the victors, their in A.D. 50G, erroneously stated 503. There
victory gave them no fruits, and they re- was no permanent settlement of the Irish
tired to winter-quarters in Perthshire. Scots in Caledonia previous to the departure
The following year the Emperor Domi- of the Romans in A.D. 410.
tian recalled Agricola, appointing Trebel- For several centuries the Picts and
lius his successor,under whom the Romans Scots governed Scotland, until they became
lost allthey had acquired in Caledonia. united, in A.D. 843, under the single head
In A.D. 120 the Emperor Hadrian came of a Scottish king, Kenneth McAlpin, as
to Britain, and attempted to regain the lost Kenneth I. The Scottish prince did not
territory, but was unsuccessful, and ended obtain the united crown by right of con-
in building an extensive turf wall from quest, as the Pictish nation was the more
the Solway Firth to the River Tyne, a dis- powerful of the two, but by peaceable suc-
tance of eighty miles, known as Hadrian's cession, as King James I. obtained the
Wall, which became the Caledonian bound- throne of England. Kenneth thus became
ary. Twenty years later, A.D. 140, Lol- the veritable first king of Scotland. Scotch
lius Urbicus, a general under Antonine, historians count before this prince sixty-six
gained some further advantage, and built kings, the first of which was named Fer-
another wall, called the Wall of Antonine, gus, who was supposed to have reigned 350
which extended from the Firth of Forth to B.C. but the existence of these kings is
;
subdued, and, according to writers of the ing of Ninian in A.D. 414 to the Southern
times, failed to keep their promises, defend- Picts is the earliest that can be relied
ing their brethren near the north and upon. In A.D. 431 Pope Celestine sent
Bouth of the Forth, the Roman general Palladius to Ireland as bishop of the Scots
having to obtain peace b}' large sums of believing in Christ. In the eleventh cent-
mone3\ ury, under the reign of ^Malcolm III., who
In the year A.D. 207 the Emperor Sev- had espoused a Saxon princess, numerous
erus entered Caledonia to reduce and con- Saxons, flying from the rule of William
quer it. After a year of harassing war- the Conqueror, sought refuge in Scotland.
fare, inwhich over 50,000 Roman soldiers In the year 1286, on the death of Alex-
perished, a treaty was entered into with ander III., the ancient line became ex-
the Caledonians, by which they agreed to tinct, and after numerous revolutions,
j-ielda part of their territory for the pur- during which Baliol and Bruce fout!;ht
pose of getting rid of the Romans. The for the crown, the last finally triumplied
emperor retired from a fruitless eftort to in 1307. During the time of these domes'
107
History. [SCOTLAND.] Sovereigns,
Portree, and to the isles of Staffu and lona, Glasgoio and its surroundings.
returning to Oban thesame day then ; Glasgow, the commercial capital of Scot-
via Glencoe back to Loch Eie, Fort Wil- land, finely situated on the Kiver Clyde, at
liam, Loch Lochy, and Ness to Inverness, the head of navigation, contains 511,532 in-
returning by the highland railway (an ad- i
habitants. Hotels, St. Enoch, Caledonian.
mirably managed road) by Blair- Athol, !
The chief portion of Glasgow lies on the
through the famous Pass of Killiecrankie, north bank of the Clyde, which is crossed
unsurpassed for beauty, Dunkold, Perth, by five fine bridges, and lined with mag-
Lakes Katrine and Lomond, and we vent- nificent quays. The navigation of this
ure to affirm that in the ten days which it ! river, formerly impeded by many obstruc-
will take more will be seen to satisfy the tions, has of late been so mucli improved
traveler, and at less expense, than the by dredging (steam-vessels being continu-
!
same time spent in any other part of Eu- ally kept at work for that purpose) that
'
rope. The variations of this route we will vessels of one thousand tons' burden can
1
point out when we describe it. Travelers reach the city. To show the great increase
I
from all parts of the world are much in- of trade, the custom duties levied in 1800
I
debted to the enterprise and capital of one were about four thousand dollars now ;
of a well-known Glasgow firm. Mr. David they are about four millions one thon- —
MacBrayne has opened up the beauties of sand times increased in seventy-four years
I
Scotland's lovely lakes and islands, and a Before our revolution in 177G, tobacco was
I
fleet of fast-sailing, elegant steamers be- the great trade, and the wealthv inhab'
t
109'
Glasgow. [SCOTLAND.] Glasgow.
itants were styled the "tobacco lords." memory of John Knox, the great reformer.
This business being interrupted on account It is situated on the highest elevation of
of the war, the citizens turned their atten- the grounds, and the statue of him whom
tion to cotton, -when soon the "cotton Scotland delights to honor, placed on the
lords" eclipsed the "tobacco lords." At top of a fine Doric column, looks down upon
present the iron lords reign supreme, as a the tombs of many of the great who are
trip down the Clyde will rapidly convince buried around it. The grounds of the
every one, hundreds of iron vessels, in all Necropolis, with its gravel-walks, trees,
stages of advancement, surrounding you shrubbery, and flowers, have more the ap-
on every hand. In 1830 there were forty pearance of a magnificent garden than that
thousand tons of iron used in Glasgow; of a resting-place for the dead.
now the amount is probably one million. The Cathedral was erected in the 12th
Glasgow was the cradle of steam naviga- century by John Achaius, bishop of Glas-
tion, and the first steamer in Europe was gow. It originall}^ consisted of three
launched here in 1812, Henry Bell being churches. It is in the form of a Latin
the projector. James Watt, a native of cross, of the pure Gothic stjde. The nave
Glasgow, in 17G3, first applied steam as a is 156 feet long and 62 wide. The organ-
motive power, a monument to whom was screen is particularly deserving of notice
erected in St. George's Square. for its beautiful carving.
GlasgOAV is noted for the quantity and The choir, the part now used for wor-
purity of its supply of fresh water, brought ship, is 97 feet in length and 60 wide, and
through tunnels, aqueducts, and reservoirs the large eastern window contains beauti-
from the classic Loch Katrine, a distance ful specimens of stained glass. The Lady
of thirty-four miles. The suppty is equal Chapel and Chapter-house, which adjoin
to twenty-four million gallons daily. A the Cathedral, are both deserving of no-
novel institution has lately been establish- tice. The architectural beautj'^ of the for-
ed in Glasgow by one of her many public mer is most exquisite. Visit the three dif-
philanthropists with great success, viz., a ferent crypts under the church, intended as
Great Western Cooking De-put, the object of a place of interment for the magnates of
which is to provide cheap food for the —
the Cathedral, and is worthy for purity
working-classes. This depot, with its nu- of style, for grace and magnificence — to
merous branches, supplies good substantial become the resting-place of emperors.
breakfasts for threepence (six cents), and There are numerous other churches in
a dinner, consisting of soup, meat, potatoes, Glasgow, among which are worth}'- of no-
and pudding, for fourpence halfpenny, tice Old College Church, St. John's Par-
equivalent to nine cents of our money. ish Church, St. Andrew's Parish Church,
Here is a city importing food from us, and St. Andrew's Eoman Catholic Cathedral,
supplying it to its working-men in good St. Mar^'^'s Episcopal Chapel, Lansdowne
condition, good breakfasts and dinners, for Church, etc., etc. The Anderson University
fifteen cents per day Where are our
! was founded by Dr. John Anderson in
New York philanthropists 7 The origina- 1795. This is one of the principal educa-
tor of this institution is Mr. Thomas Cor- tional establishments in the city.
bett, whose name we lend our efforts in The Royal Exchange, situated in the
handing down to posterit}'. centre of Exchange Square, is perhaps the
The first and most prominent object to finest building in Glasgow. It is built in
be seen in Glasgow is the Cathedral, which the Corinthian order of architecture, and is
we think ranks next to Westminster in the surmounted by a noble campanile, whence
kingdom, and is certainly equal to the far- a beautiful view of the city may be ob-
famed Salisbury Cathedral for purity of tained. The principal apartment is the
style. It is situated in a most picturesque News-room, which is beautifully decorated.
position, partly surmounted by an old This structure cost the city two hundred
church-3^ard called the Necropolis, the finest and fifty thousand dollars, and is one of
cemetery in the city, which rises in ter- which every citizen should feel proud. In
races in the background, and contains some front of the Exchange stands an eques-
very beautiful monuments, the most con- trian statue of the Duke of Wellington. It
spicuous of which is that erected to the is executed in bronze by Marochetti, and
110
GLASGOW
i^
Glasgow. [SCOTLAND.] Glasgow.
to the city by Archibald M'Lellan, who in- trait of the late Lord Provost Stewart the ;
high, and costing $1,500,000. Carlyle I side, where her hopes were permanently
all
was once Rector here. The library, con-
[
crushed. The " Queen's Seat," on the top
sisting of 100,000 volumes, is situated on , of Catlin Hill, may be seen, where it is
the northern side ; also the Hunterian Mn- \
said the unfortunate Mary witnessed the
seum, containing a fine collection of ana- : defeat of her forces.
tomical preparations, coins, MSS., and pict- Trains leave Glasgow daily for Edin-
ures. burgh, Loch Lomond, Stirling, London,
Nearl}^ adjoining the park are the Bo- Liverpool, Ayr, Dumfries, Carlisle, Perth,
tanic Gardens. Then- situation on the Aberdeen, and Dundee.
banks of the Kelvin is most delightful, Steamers sail daily in summer for Oban,
|
the important battle of Langside was Glasgoiv to Bothwell Castle, Hamilton Pal-
fought, in which the hopes of Mary Queen ace, Lanark, and the Falls of the Clyde.
of Scots were crushed by the troops of the This lovely excursion can be made com-
Regent Murray. fortabh' in one da}' by taking the Caledo-
In St. Vincent Place there is an eques- nian Railway, getting out at Blantyre Sta-
trian statue of Queen Victoria by INIaro- tion, crossing the suspension bridge over
chetti, erected to commemorate her visit to the Ch'de to Bothwell Castle, and thence to
Glasgow in 1849. Bothwell Bridge, through the Duke of
INIany of the streets of Glasgow are filled Hamilton's grounds to the palace there ;
tain, Sir Andrew IMurray, who was the rent hurries along with fearful rapidity-
first to join the hero Wallace, and the last through a chasm not more than 14 feet in
to leave him. After Murray was outlawed, width. Half a mile below this is the prin-
Edward I. bestowed it on the Earl of Pem- cipal fall, called Corra Linn here the wa- ;
broke, who commanded the English forces ter makes three distinct leaps, in all about
in Scotland. After the expulsion of the 85 feet. Opposite is a pavilion fitted up
English, it was bestowed b}' Bruce on his witli mirrors, which give the falls a very
brother-in-law IVIurray, and passed after interesting appearance. There are numer-
that time, through various hands, to the ous other romantic and historical places of
'
p]arl of Bothwell, on whose attainder, in importance in the vicinity, which the local
—
\
the reign of Queen Mary, it reverted to the guides will point out many of them apoc-
j
in fact, gems and relics of great value meet Glasgow to Rolhsay and A rran, via Dum-
your eye in every direction. There are barton Castle, Jlelensburg, Greenock, and
some 2000 pictures, including Reubens's, Dunoon.
Leonardo da Vinci's, Titian's, Rembrandt's, Hit is not the traveler's intention to visit
Vandyke's, Guido's, Carlo Dolci's, and Cor- the Castle of Dumbarton on the route to or
reggio's. Among the relics are the ring from Loch Lomond, it would be better per-
given by Queen Mary to Lord John Ham- haps to take the railway from Glasgow, and
ilton also her cabinet and jewel-case
; then the steamer from Dumbarton, as some-
the gun with which Bothwell shot the Re- times there is a most disagreeable odor aris-
gent Murray the traveling-chest of Napo-
; ing from the water. Four or five trains
leon a magnificent table, made of Sevres
; leave daily. There are steamers twice a
china, presented to the present duchess by day from Glasgow or Greenock to Rothesay.
the Empress Eugenie, etc., etc. Should you not have entered Scotland by
To the Motherwell Station is two miles, the Clyde, by all means take the steamer
where we take the cars to Lanark, which at Glasgow, as the immense number of
is historically noted as being the place iron ships in difterent stages of construc-
whence Wallace set out on the glorious tion which one passes between Glasgow and
expedition of freeing his native country Greenock are well worth seeing. The dis-
a statue of the hero decorates the entrance tance is twenty miles. Passing in suc-
to the parish church. cession the Napier Dock, where the Cunard
The Falls of the Clyde are two miles dis- steamers receive their engines the Thom-
;
113
[SCOTLAND.] Greekock.
sons' yard,from which Mr. D, MacBrayne'a that time governor of the castle. Queen
fleetwere launched then Robert Napier
; Mary was conveyed here from France while
& Sons' and other j-ards, where many of yet an infant Charles I. and Oliver Crom-
;
the Inman and other magnificent ships well have successively occupied it Queen
;
to visit Dumbarton Castle must land. From which do not stop at Greenock ascend direct
this prosperous village the Forth and Clyde to Glasgow. Notice on a low neck of land
Canal commences, which cuts the isthmus, the Castle of Newark, the property of the
and connects the Firth of Forth with the Shaw-Stewart family.
Firth of Clyde. It is thirty-eight miles in Greenock contains a population of 57,138.
length, includes thirtv-nine locks, and fol- Principal hotel. Tontine. This is a thriving
lows the line of the Roman Wall. This sea-port ; over 100 steamers per day touch
wall was rebuilt by Lollius Urbicus, under at its docks. Ship-building, iron-works,
the Emperor Antonine, b}' whose name it cotton and wool spinning are its principal
was called but it was originally built by
; industries. There is but little here to de-
Agricola in A.D. 81, and was the most tain the traveler, although its position is
northerly of the four walls erected hy the one of surpassing beauty. Its streets are
Romans to protect themselves from the in- narrow, and not particularly clean. The
cursions of the warlike Picts. It is said principal objects of attraction are its Cus-
that on this wall St. Patrick's father was tom-house, Mariners' Asylum, and Watt
employed under the Romans. Below Bow- Monument, erected to commemorate the
ling is the ivy-covered Castle of Dunglass, birthplace of the great engineer. It is a
in front of which stands a small obelisk Gothic building, containing a statue by
erected to the memory of Henry Bell, who Chantrey, raised by public subscription
first introduced steam navigation into Great also a library presented by his son. The
Britain. His first attempt was the "Com- town is well supplied with water from a
et," a steamer of three-horse power, which reservoir about six miles distant. The wa-
was launched in 1812. ter is made to drive numerous mills on its
Dumhart.on Castle is now seen, rising way to the city. The citizens are indebted
nearly 600 feet above the level of the" river for this, as well as for the Well Pcerk, near
— that is, the mound on which the castle- the station, to the munificence of the Shaw-
buildings are located, for Dumbarton is not Stewart famil}-. Mar}^ Campbell, Burns's
a castle in the sense in which we generally " Highland Mary," is buried in the church-
mean a castle, but a stronghold in the yard of the old church.
shape of a hill, on the summit of which are Steamers run from Greenock in every
located different buildings —
barracks, ar- direction. Rail to Glasgow eighteen times
mory, governor's bouse, etc. The armory each day. Distance twenty- two and a
contains the two-handed sword of the hero half miles. The watering-places of Gou-
Wallace, and was also at one time the place rock, Inverkip, and Wemyss Bay are far-
of his confinement. It was held for Ed- ther down the river.
ward I. for four years by Sir John Mon- Jlelensburg, a very pleasant and cheer-
teith, the betrayer of Wallace, who was at ful watering-place, much in favor with the
114
DUNOOX. [SCOTLAND.] Largs.
Douglas. It was garrisoned by the troops I er from Islay or the coach to Campbell-
116
ARDRISHArG. [SCOTLAND.] Oban.
town, for both of which places there is dailt/ rates the islands of Jura and Scarba. Here
\
communication (a'a Tarbet and Loch Fyne) is situated the famous whirlpool spoken of
during the year. Overlooking this town is ;
by Campbell, Scott, Leyden, and others,
a tine old castle built by Koljert the Bruce, i
the Isles," represents Bruco making this threading our way through numerous isl-
passage. ands, such as Seil, Easdale, Shuna, Luing,
etc., noted for tlieir fine state, and mostly
" Ever the breeze blows merrily,
But galley plows no more the sea,
tlie
belonging to the Marquis of Breadalbane,
Lest,rounding wild CJantyre, they meet one of the largest land proprietors in Scot-
The Southern foeman'a watchful fleet. land, we enter Kerrera Sound. On the isl-
They held unwonted way
Up Tarbet's western lake they bore, and of the same name, which forms a nat-
Tiien dragged their bark the isthmus o'er. ural breakwater to the harbor of Oban, may
As far as Kilmaconnel's shore, be seen Gillean Castle, once the residence
Upon the eastern bay." of the Macleans. We now enter the love-
Loch Fyne, through which we now pass, ly harbor of Ohan. Best hotel, Gi-eat West-
is noted for its herring tishery. The tish ern, than which a finer does not exist in
are highly prized, more for their fine flavor Scotland the cuisine is unexceptionable,
;
than for their size or fiitness. and the view from its windows most glorious.
Travelers now land at the village of Oban is one of the most healthy and
Ardrisha/g, which is situated at the south- pleasant summer retreats in the High-
eastern terminus of the Crinan Canal (ho- lands, and during the summer months is
tel, R<yynl\ and, walking a few hundred filled with travelers coming from Glas-
yards, enter an elegant and roomy canal gow, from Inverness, and other places, who
steamer, a splendid barge, which cleaves make this the starting-point for 8tatla,Iona,
her way through the limpid element in the and other excursions. The Free Church
midst of most charming and novel scen- of Ohan is a very pretty building it was ;
ery. The sensation is delightful and de- erected at the expense of the Marquis of
cidedly novel. The canal contains fifteen Breadalbane.
locks in all, but our barge passes through The steamers run to StafFa and lona
but nine, the Avhole distance being nine daily except Sundays. Be particular and
miles, saving sixty-nine in not having to make this excursion the first fine day.
double the ^MuU of Cantyre. Should the day, after arriving, turn out
Notice, after passing the last lock, and bad, visit instead the castles of Dunolly
before arriving at the village of Crinan, and Dunstaffnage.
away to the right the beautiful mansion of The niins of Dunolhj Castle are situated
Poltalloch, which was built by its owner, upon a bold and precipitous rock which
Mr. Malcolm, at a cost of over $500,000. overhangs Loch Etive, and is about half a
The estate extends in some directions near- mile distant from Oban, Apart from the
ly forty miles. To the left, after joining wildly beautiful appearance of the ruins,
the splendid saloon steamer "Chevalier "at the view from their summit is the most
Crinan, on the Jura Sound, is Downie House, glorious on which our gaze ever rested
where Thomas Campbell, the poet, lived in inlets, baA's. lochs, and islands surround
his younger days in the capacity of tutor. you on every side, with every variety of
We now pass through. Loch Craigneish, surface, from wildly bleak to softly fair.
which is studded with beautiful, pictur- Dunolly Castle was in former times the
esque, and verdant isles, during which time stronghold of the Lords of Lorn, and is
a very fine dinner is served on board at the now in possession of Admiral ^IcDougal, a
remarkably low rate of '2s. Cul. After cross- lineal descendant of that ancient family,
ing Jura Sound, to your left may be seen whose modern an^l modest mansion stands
the Strait of Corrivreckan, which sepa- immediately behind the castle.
117
DUNSTAFFNAGE. [SCOTLAND.] DuNSTAFFNAGE.
That part of the castle in the best state the East, and said to be the same on
is
ladder. (We wonder it is not put in some first brought from Spain, and placed on
state of preservation. A very slight ex- the Hill of Tara, where the kings of Ireland
pense would not only prevent it from tum- were installed thence it was removed to
;
bling to pieces, but -svould admit visitors Dunstaffnage, and from Dunstaffnage to
to the top, from Avhich they are now ex- 1 Scone by Kenneth II. The ceremony of
cluded, we suppose, on account of the dan- installation in Ireland was performed by a
ger in reaching it.) But one may rest Druidical priest, Avho repeated in ancient
perfectly satislied reclining for hours on Irish-Gaelic a rhyme which has been trans-
the mossy surface of the court-yard, seven lated thus
hundred feet above the level of the sea, "Consider, Scot, where'er you find this stone,
and gaze on the enchanting sight around If fates fail not, there fixt must be your home."
it. In one corner of the court-yard is a This prophecy was supposed to have been
cage, where for twenty years a noble eagle when James VI. of Scotland suc-
fulfilled
was chained. He was a source of particu- ceeded to the throne of England, and was
lar interest to the family as well as to vis- crowned on the old Dunstaffnage stone.
itors from abroad. The poet Wordsworth, It is at the present time fixed to the bot-
when he visited Oban in 1831, composed tom of the coronation-chair at Westmin-
some verses suggested by the appearance ster, and the sovereigns of England are
of this king of birds. A few years since, crowned on it at the present day. Dun-
I
some scoundrels who had gained admit- staffnage was in possession of the Lords of
tance to the ruins set some dogs upon the Lorn when it was captured by Robert the
—
poor caged prisoner and killed him not, Bruce. In the early part of the fifteenth
however, before his assailants had shared century the castle was granted to an an-
a similar fate. Before reaching Dunolly cestor of the family of Campbells, who hold
Castle from Oban, notice a huge, isolated possession of it to-day.
mass of stone which rises abruptly from tlie Steamers leave Oban daily for Glasgow
shore, and has the appearance of an invert- by the Crinan Canal for Inverness by
;
says it was to this stone that the hero Fin- mornings to the island of Lewis daily for ;
gal chained his faithful dog Bran. To Staffa and lona during the season. On
open the gate of the castle you must pro- Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays for
cure the key from the woman Avho keeps Portree (island of Skye) and Gairloch.
the lodge, to whom you pay a small fee, Also every Tuesday morning for Loch
and return the key. Scavaig and Coolin Hills. Coaches leave
Returning from Dunolly Castle, unless Oban daily for Inverar}- by Connel Ferry,
fond of long walks, the traveler had better Taynuilt, Pass of Awe, and Dalmally. To
take a carriage to make the excursion to Loch Lomond through Dalmally,Tyndrum,
Dunstaffnage, which is a long three miles. and Inverarnan. Also to Ardrishaig by
The castle is situated near the foot of Loch Lochs Nell and Feochan.
Etive, a beautiful position, and commands
a magnificent prospect. It was in ancient
times the seat of Scottish royalt}', and is
still a proud and beautiful ruin. It is sup-
posed to have been erected by Celtic chief-
tains after the expulsion of the North-
men. DunstatFnage is noted, in a histor-
ical point of view, for having preserved
for a long time the Palladium of Scotland
— the celebrated stone of Dunstaffnage,
on which the earl}' Scottish king? sat
when they were crowned. According to
tradition, this stone was first brought f^om
118
DuART Castle. [SCOTLAND.] Ardtornish Castle.
in some measure on that cause, no man has
ROUTE
j
No. 40.
j
a right to expose his wife, in consequence
From Ohan to the islands of Staffa and j
of an ordinary domestic disagreement, upon
lona. Ordinary time, 12 hours, which in- a wave-washed rock, with the proljability
cludes an hours stay at Staffa the same ; of her catching cold in the first place, and
at lona. Fare, £1=65. The steamer the certainty of being drowned in the sec-
" Pioneer," of Mr. David MacBrayne's ond but some accounts say she had twice
;
line, leaves tlie dock at Oban each morn- attempted her husband's life, and so as-
ing at 8 A.M. during the summer season. suredly she deserved to be most severely
Should the weather be roujxh, it is impos- reprimanded. Be this as it may, Lauch-
sible to land at Staffa, and the excursion lan carried tiie lady to the rock in ques-
may be disagreeal)le ; whereas nothing can tion, where he left her at low water, no
be more pleasant and delightful than this doubt desiring that at high water she would
trip in agreeable weather. Be particular be seen no more. However, it so chanced
therefore to notice the state of affairs on that her cries, 'piercing the night's dull
the morning after j'our arrival at Oban, ear,' were lieard by some passing fisher-
and act accordingly if the time be disa-
;
men, who, subduing their fear of water-
greeable, make the excursions in the vi- witches, or thinking that they had at last
cinity of Oban, but be certain you wait for caught a mermaid, secured the fair one,
good weather for Staffa. The course of the and conveyed her to her own people, to
steamer round the "dark Mull'' and whom, of course, she told her version of
through its '"
mighty sound"
determinedis the story, ^^'e forget what legal steps
by the If from the
direction of the wind. were taken (a warrant passed for
slioriff's
north or northeast, we pass through the little in those days, at least at Mull), but
Sound of Kerrera, and first visit lona, then considerable feudal disorders ensued in
Staffa if in a contrary direction, we pass
; consequence, and the Laird of Duart was
through the Sound of AIull, and visit Staffa eventually assassinated in bed one night
first. The latter being the ordinary course, (in Edinburgh) by Sir John Campbell, of
although not the one taken by the author, Calder, the brother of the bathed lady.
we will describe it in that order. We hope this was the means of reconciling
Notice, on the right, as we leave the har- all parties."
bor, the magnificent position of Dunolly On our right we pass Ardtornish Castle,
Castle ; then, farther up the loch, that of in a situation most wild and beautiful. It
Dunstaffnage. Passing Lismore Island was in former times one of the principal
on the right (where the Koman Catholics strong-holds of the Lords of the Isles dur-
formerly had a large seminar}'' for training ing their highest pitch of independence.
their priests), we near the shore of Mull, It was here that Sir Walter Scott laid the
at the most prominent point of which stands early scenes of the Lord of the Isles :
Duart Castle^ in ancient times the strong- " i'.eneath tlip ctstle'r; sheltering le?
hold of the M'Leans, and guarding the They :*taiil their cour:?e in quiet sea.
Sound of Mull. Here lived the "tyrant Hewn in the rock a passage there
of the strait;" and nearly opposite is the Sought the dark fortress by a stair
So straight, so high, so ste-^p,
Lady Rock, Avhere the tyrant M'Lean With peasant's staff one valiant hand
placed his wife, the incident upon which Might well the dizzy path have niann'rl
Joanna Baillie founded her drama of the 'Gainst hundreds armed with spear and branfl,
And plunged them in the deep."
Famihj Lofjni'L and the poet Campbell his
poem of Glengara. Professor Wilson's The steamer now enters the harbor of
brother describes the incident in his " Voy- Tobermor\'. the princijval village in Mull,
age Around the Coast of Scotland and the near which is the ancient castle of Drum-
:"
Isles Jin, one of the former possessions of the
" Lauchlan Cattanach M'Lean, of Duart, Lairds of Coll. Seven miles farther we
had married a daughter of Archibald, sec- pass, on tlic left, the Castle of Minparrt/,
ond Earl of Argyle, witli whom it may be which "o'crawed the woodland and the
presumed he lived on bad terms. What- waste," and was formerly a residence of the
ever may have been the cause, although 3Iac-Ians, a sept of the Macdonalds, who
the character of the act alluded to depends were descended from the Lords of the Isles.
119
Staff A. [SCOTLAND.] loXA.
We are now in sight of thefamed Staffa, with various hues of green, red, and gold;
passing on our left the islands Ulva and and then the wild but mellow moan of each
Gometra, both of -which are skirted -with successive surge, as it rolls everlastingly
basaltic columns regular as those of StafFa. over the ends of the lower pillars, can not
There is a magnificent cave at Ulva, sixty fail to fill the traveler with admiration and
feet square and thirty in height. awe at this most wondrous of the works of
Staffa is situated about eight miles from Nature,
the western shore of Mull, is about two " Where, as to shame the temples deck'd
miles in circumference, and was unknown By of earthly architect,
skill
to the scientific world before the year 1772, Ratine seems, would raise
lierself, it
hardy and skillful (it is very seldom that Thy humble powers that stately shrine
Task'd high and hard— but witness mine."
the sea is so smooth as to allow boats to be
rowed into Fingal's Cave), we pass over a There are numerous other caves in dif-
rugged causeway formed of truncated col- ferent parts of the island, the principal of
umns, passing on our left a conical island Avhich are Mackinnon's Cave, Boat Cave,
of basaltic pillars, about thirty feet high, Clam-shell Cave, etc., etc. ; but the steam-
which appear to great advantage in low er remains merel}' long enough to visit the
water: this is called the Herdsman. As principal, which is Fingal's. The popular
we proceed round the projecting part of tradition among the natives is that Fingal
the cliff (after making the descent of a (who Avas the father of Ossian), or Fin
rugged stairway one hundred feet long), M'Coul, the giant, built the cave.
the pillars over which Ave walk gradually From the mouth of the cave, lona, or the
increase in magnitude and proportion the "Blessed Isle," may be seen at a distance
;
ends of the columns vary from twelve to of some seven miles, to which we now pro-
thirty-six inches. The way to the interior ceed. The steamer comes to anchor in
is most precarious, and many persons dread front of the village of lona, Avhich consists
to make the trial. Iv is not so difficult as of some forty or fifty thatched cottages.
it appears, Vnit you must have considerable The landing is rather difficult, as it is im-
pluck to enter into the innermost recesses possible to build permanent wharves, the
of the cave half way may be done with winter's storms invariably breaking them
;
comparative safety. Here you can stand up. On landing, the traveler is beset Avith
and gaze "with undisturbed reverence on groups of children offering for sale shells
the effect of those proportions, where the and pebbles. This is an old custom, as
almighty hand that made the worlds, the pilgrims and traA'elers in\^ariably carry
Sovereign Architect, has deigned to work aAvay some relic of the isle. Avhich in for-
as if with human art." mer times Avere considered charms against
This most magnificent temple of Na- all manner of diseases. lona is first knoAvn
ture's architecture is 'iL'O feet long, 66 feet in history as the spot chosen by Columba
high at mean tide, 42 feet wide at the mouth as his head-quarters for the purpose of con-
of the cave, and 22 at the inner extrem- A-erting Northern Britain to Christianity,
ity. Its sides are columnar, and nearly and here he landed Avith tweU'e other saints
perpendicular; the countless columns are (having arrived from Ireland in an open
beautifully jointed and most symmetrical boat) in the year 568. Tytler says that by
throughout. The ends of the columns, the courage, zeal, and ability of this great
which form the gallery overhead, are beau- and good man, the greater portion of the
tifully irregular, and tinted bv the light Pictish dominions was converted to the
120
lONA. [SCOTLAND.] Glencob.
Christian faith. lie died in the 77th year the most modern of all the ruins, but has
of his age, "a man not less distinguished no connection with the other monastic in-
b}-- his zeal or activity in the dissemination stitutions of the island the style of archi-
;
of the Gospel, than by simplicity of man- tecture is Norman, and probably dates back
ners, sweetness of temper, and holiness of to about the middle of the 13th centurj'.
life." The island became so reputed for The tombstone of the last prioress, the
its sanctity that it obtained preference in Princess Anna, is still in a fine state of
Scotland over all other l)urial-places. For- preservation. Boats may be hired in lona
tv Scottish kings alone -were buried at convey parties to Staffa.
to
lona, two Irish kings, one French king, Return to Oban by the southern co:ist
and two Norwegian princes. Here Dun- of Mull, the whole length of which contains
can I. and his murderer, Macbeth, were most interesting sights in the matter of sin-
both interred. lona was also called Icolme- gular rocky formations.
kill ; and Shakspeare makes Rosse ask, Travelers wishing to make the tour to
"Where is Duncan^s body? the island of Skye will find two fine steam-
Marchilf. Carried to Colme-kill, ers of Mr. David MacBrayne sailing daily
Tlie sacred store-lioiise of his predeces- for Portree and Stornoway, on the distant
sor.<,
island of Lewis; they leave Oban about
Aud guardian of their bones."
seven in the morning, and arrive at Portree
Tradition also stated that lona's island
th'^same evening, and at Stornoway the
alone should be saved during the next del-
following morning.
uge.
" Seven yeai-j; before the end of the world
A deluge shall drown the nations.
The sea at one tide shall cover Ireland
And the green-headed Islay, but Colunibo's isle
Shall swim above the flood."
Lord <'f ths Isles, whose 1 fiy name ness via Caledonian Canal, Route No. 43).
A thousand bards have given to fame, The steamer passes on up Loch Linnhe, one
'J'he mate of monarchs, and allied
of Scotland's most beautiful lakes, enters
On equal terms with England's pride."
Loch Lcven, and lands its passengers at
Near this stands St.Martin s Cross, a Ballachulish, where there is a fine hotel.
beautiful specimen of antique carving Here the traveler takes coach for Glencoe,
this isabout the only perfect specimen of which excels ever}' glen in Scotland in the
the 360 similar crosses that once adorned dreary magnificence of its scenery, and
the island. Jfaclean's Cross is another line here, it is said, the famed Ossian was born,
specimen, which the visitor will notice on and lived on the banks of the wild but
his way from the Nunnery (the first ruin lovely Cona, which rushes through part
visited) to the Cathedral. The Nunnery is of the glen. [Passengers mav continue
Vol. I.— F 121
Glen'coe. [SCOTLAND.] Glencc.
through this gkn by stage to Loch Lo- rymple, afterward Earl of Stair, secretary
mond, returning to Glasgow, by booking of state for Scotland, and to the powerful
their names at Oban ; or to Tyndrum Earl of Breadalbane, whose lands the Glen-
from Ballachulish, in 6 hrs, 15 mia. fare, coe men had plundered, and whose plans for
;
power to receive it. Sympathizing, how- kindest entertainment. Till the 13th of
ever, with the distress of the old chieftain,
'
ty. !
liam to Inverary with such eagerness that, ner at the chieftain's house, and was in-
though the road lay within half a mile of Macdonald, while in the
stantl}' admitted.
his own
house, he stepped not aside to visit and giving orders
act of dressing himself,
his ftimily. But the way to Inverary lay for refreshments to be procured for his vis-
through almost impassable mountains, the itors, was shot dead at his own bedside.
season was extremely rigorous, and the His aged wife had already dressed, but she
whole country was covered with snow. In was stripped naked by the soldiers, who
consequence of these obstructions, the ill- tore the rings off her fingers with their
f.ited chief did not reach Inverary till aft- teeth. The slaughter now became general,
er the prescribed time had elapsed. The and neither age nor sex was spared. In
sheriff, however, in the circumstances of one place nine persons, as they sat enjoy-
the case, yielding to the importunities and ing themselves at table, were butchered
even tears of Macdonald, administered to by the soldiers. At the hamlet where
him the oath of allegiance, and sent off an Glenlyon had his own quarters, nine men,
express to the Privy Council certifying the including his landlord, were bound by the
fact, and explaining the cause of the delay. soldiers, and then shot one by one. Thirty-
" But Macdonald had unfortunately ren- eight persons in all were massacred by the
dered himself obnoxious to Sir John Dal- troops, and several who fled to the mount-
122
Glasgow to Inveraky. [SCOTLAND.] Inveeary.
ains perished by famine and the inclemenc : the Clan Macfarlanc. From this point to
of the season. Those Avho escaped owed Inverary, a distance of twenty miles, the
their lives to a tempestuous night. Lieu- scenery is beautiful
; six miles is through
tenant-Colonel Hamilton, who had re- the desolate glen of Glencroe, passing Loch
ceived the charge of the execution from j
Restal, and through the lonely valley of
the secretarj' of state, was on his march Glenkinglas to Cairndow Inn thence
;
rock, and separated from the hill behind it This is one of the most important ex-
a wall twenty-five feet high and sixteen
1»3' cursions from GlasgoAv, the birthplace of
broad its situation is one of surpassing
;
Scotland's favorite, Robert Burns. The
loveliness. The outlet of the canal is at whole can be w^ell done in one day, leaving
Muirtown Quay, one mile and a half from by the early train in the morning, and re-
Inverness. turning by the last train at night ; but, if
We now arrive at Inverness, the capital not pressed for time, two or three dajs may
of the Highlands. The principal hotels well be spent in visiting the dift^"erent lo-
are the Caledonian, Railway, and Union. calities. The distance is 40 miles from
The population of Inverness is about Glasgow by rail, and there is a very good
15, COO. There is nothing of importance to hotel at A}T, the King's A rms. Four miles
be seen in the town, which is of great an- from Glasgow we notice the ruins oiCrook-
tiquity. The streets are clean, and the ston Castle, situated on an eminence on the
houses are well built. The River Ness, on banks of the White Hart it was formerly ;
both sides of which the town is built, is the property of the Stuarts of Lennox,
crossed by a fine suspension bridge. St. and was inhabited b}^ Queen Mars'- when
Andreic''s Cathedral is a modern Gothic Darnley was paying her his addresses.
building, the towers not yet finished. There Seven miles from Glasgow w^e pass
is also an Academy, well conducted. On through the town of Paisley, noted for its
an eminence in the southeastern part of the cotton, silk, plaids, and Canton-crape shawl
town stood a castle built by Malcolm, son manufactories. It contains a population
of the murdered Duncan. He it was Avho of 50,000. The Abbey Church is w^ell
destroyed the castle which formerly stood worth a visit. A short distance from Pais-
here, where it is supposed that Macbeth ley, on the left, we pass the celebrated Oak
murdered his father. James I. held a Par- of Elderslie, under which Wallace hid from
liament here, at which nearly all the Scot- the Englisli forces. At Kilwinning Junc-
tish chiefs gave in their allegiance. The tion, a short distance farther, may be seen
castle was blown up in 1746 by the troops the ruins of Kihoinning Priory, founded
of Prince Charles Stuart. The shipping in 1140 b}'- Hugh de Morville. Freema-
of Inverness is quite considerable, the ton- sonr}^ was first introduced into Scotland
nage of the port being over ten thousand. by the founders and builders of this priory,
One of the principal excursions from the and it was for many centuries the parent-
cit}' is to Craig -Phadric, a vitrified fort, lodge of that order on the island.
whicli lies about a mile to the Avest. Amer- Four miles and a half from Kilwinning
ican travelers should endeavor to be at In- the town oi Irvine is reached. It contains
verness about the 20th of September, when a population of 7000. Hotel, King's A rms.
the meeting of the clans takes place. The This was the birthplace of Montgomery,
Highland games are very interesting, and the poet, and the residence of the Mont-
several days are spent in this amusement. gomerys, Earls of Eglinton. It Avas also
Steamers every day to Oban. Raihvay the temporary residence of Burns, who was
daily for Perth also for Aberdeen, via El-
;
here occupied in the flax-dressing business.
gin to Lewis, via Stroma Ferry to Thurso
; ; Robert Bruce here surrendered to the En-
and Wick. glish army under Percy.
Twenty miles from Glasgow^ we pass Eg-
linton Castle, the seat of the Montgomer}'
family, w ho came from Normandy with Wil-
liam the Conqueror. One of the famil}',
Sir Hugh jMontgomery, took prisoner the
famous Hotspur HenrA' Percy. The fam-
ily were raised to the peerage in the fif-
teenth century.
A short distance from Irvine, standing"
on an elevated position on the left, is the
ROUTE No. 44. ancient castle of Dimdonald, which gives
Glasgow to Ayr and Girvan (the land of the title of earl to the family of Cochrane.
Burns), via Paisley and Troon. It was formerly the property of Robert
126
Troon. [SCOTLAND.] Ayr.
11. of Scotland, who died here in 1390. snuff-box made from the wood of Alloway
The property, with the exception of the Kirk, and the Bible which he gave to his
castle, is now in the possession of the Earl Highland Mary, The monument itself is
of t^glinton that and five roods of land are
: made in imitation of that of Lvf icratcs at
still retained by Lord Dundonald. Athens. It is about 60 feet high, surround-
A short distance from the castle are the ed by nine Corinthian columns 30 feet high,
remains of an ancient church dedicated to supporting a cupola which is surmounted
the Virgin, where it is said James IV. uni- by a gilt tripod. The whole structure is
formly made an offering of fourteen shil- of fine white freestone, and presents a vcrv
lings. chaste and classical appearance. The cel-
Four and a half miles from Irvine is the ebrated statues of Tarn O'Shanter and Sou-
village of Troon. Hotel, Portland. Pop- tar Johnnie, by Thom of Ayr, are placed in
ulation 2525. This is a thriving sea-port a grotto within the grounds belonging to
town, being the principal shipping-port of the monument. The scener}' is equal, in
A3^rshirc. It is much visited as a water- richness and variety, to any in Scotland ;
ing-place by the citizens of Kilmarnock, to while the interest attached to the banks of
which town it is connected by a branch the Doon, the spot where Burns composed
railway. "Man was made to mourn," the "Braes
Passing FuUarton House, the seat of the of Ballochmyle," and the junction of the
Duke of Portland, six miles from Troon Ayr with the Lugar, all serve to make this
the handsome town of Ayr is reached. vicinity peculiarly attractive. It is a re-
Hotel, Kings Arms. markable circumstance that Burns is the
Ayr is a sea-port town of 18,000 inhab- only case on record where the genius of a
itants. It is divided by the River Ayr single man has made the language of his
into two parts, Wallacetown and Newtown. country classical.
The river is crossed by the " twa brigs," A
few yards from the "auld haunted
immortalized by Burns. On the site of kirk" is the "auld brig," which figures so
the tower where Wallace was confined, a prominently in Tam O'Shanter, and close
Gothic structure, 115 feet high, was erect- by a very neat hotel, which is of great
ed in 18;}5 it is called the " Wallace Tow-
: service to tourists, and where one would
er." In front there is a statue of the hero be satisfied to spend weeks. Notice, in the
at the top are the clock and bells of the garden between the old and new bridge,
old dungeon steeple. Two miles from the beautiful grotto studded with shells,
Ayr is the cottage, divided into two rooms, which serves to heighten the natural beau-
where the poet Bums was born, Jan. 25th, ties of the place.
175U. About two miles from this we reach Eleven miles east of Ayr, on the Dum-
" AUo^vay's aulil haunted kirk," fries and Glasgow Railroad (see Route No.
62) is the town of Mauchline, the scene of
which, having become immortalized by
the "Holy Fair" and "Jolly Beggars."
Burns in his "Tarn O'Shanter,'' as well
Posie Nancie's cottage in the town is also
as being the burial-place of his father and
pointed out.
mother, and in the immediate vicinit}- of
From !Mauchline to Montgomery is three
the poet's own monument, has become an
miles. It was here, amid the woods, the
object of great interest. The modern mon-
property of W. Patterson, Esq., that Bums
uments in the kirk-yard are now very nu-
wrote his exquisite poem
merous. A short distance to the west is *' :
in beautiful order by a ]Mr. Auld, who lives O' my sweet Ilighlan' Mary."
in a pretty cottage between the kirk and The present mansion of CoiUfidd was the
"Auld Brig." In a room on the ground " Castle o" Montgomery," at that time the
floor of the monument are numerous rel- residence of Colonel Hugh ^Montgomery,
ics of the late poet : one of his portraits, a since Earl of Egliuton. Here Highland
127
Montgomery Castle. [SCOTLAJSD.J AiLSA Craig.
Mary lived in the capacity of dairymaid, A visit should be made to the ruins of
and Avben Burns wrote the above verses Greenan Castle, about half an hour from
he was engaged to be married to her. Pre- Ayr, Five miles farther, in the direction
vious to that event taking place, jNIary de- of Girvan, stand the ruins oi Dunure Castle^
termined to pay a visit to her friends in the first family seat of the Kennedys, who
Argyleshire and on a bright May Sunday
;
were ennobled in 1466, and in 1510 attain-
morn, each standing on a difterent side of ed the dignity of Earls of Cassilis. Colzean
a small burn, they bathed their hands in Castle, the present mansion of this family,
the water, and, holding a Bible between the head of which was created Marquis of
them, swore eternal constancy. They were Ailsa in 1831, is one of the most imposing
destined never to meet again. Mary, in structures in Scotland it is situated en an
;
returning from the visit to her parents, fell imposing cliff which overhangs the sea,
sick and died at Greenock, and was bur- and pi-esents a magnificent range of castel-
ied in the Old Church grave-yard. This lated masses, covering a large extent, and
was the purest and most fervent love of conveying an idea of strength, dignity,
Burns's life, and its sequence created an and taste.
immense impression on his mind, and gave Immediately underneath the castle are
rise to some of the most touching verses the Coves of Colzean, according to tradi-
he ever wrote. On the anniversary of tion a favorite haunt of fairies, and men-
Mary's death he wrote, at Ellisland,the no- tioned in Burns's "Halloween."
blest of all his ballads, " Mary in Heaven
:"
A few miles south of Colzean stands
Turnberry Castle, forraerlj' a residence of
" Thou liugering star with lessening ray, the Earls of Carrick, who stood first in tha
That lov'st to greet the early morn,
land before the daj^s of the Kennedys. In
Again thou usherest in the day
My Mary from my soul was torn. 1271 Kobert Bruce married the widow of
the Earl of Carrick, from which unioa
"• O Maiy !dear departed shade !
sprung Eobert Bruce, King of Scotland,
Where is thy place of blissful rest ?
See'stthou thy lover lowly laid ? who was born in this castle. The appeal'-
Hear'st thou the groans that rend his ance from the sea of Turnberry Castle i
bieast ?" most grand and imposing ; it is one ol
the royal palaces of Scotland. It is now
Coilsfield is supposed to derive its name the property of the Marquis of Ailsa.
from " Auld King Coil," who was slain in Girvan Station, the terminus of the rail,
this district by Fergus, one of Scotland's way from Glasgow through Ayr, is a towi«
kings. of 5000 inhabitants. Hotel, Kin fj's Arms.
Space will not permit the mentioning of There is nothing of importance to be seen
the hundred spots in this neighborhood in the town. Excursions can be made
which Eurns's songs have made immortal. from here to Ailsa Craig, a distance of ten
His admirers in the United States are miles. This huge rock, whicli rises out of
innumerable the sea 1103 feet, is two miles in circum-
ference, and is inhabited by but one hu-
"We come in one tumultuous tide man family. The summit is crowned by
One surge of wild emotion—
As crowding through the Firth of Clyde the ruins of a tower. It is the property
Rolls in the Western Ocean. of the Marquis of Ailsa, who takes from it
" We love him, not for sweetest song. his title of British peer.
Though never tone so tender ;
land, is situated in a pleasant \alley, and Inverness to Ulck and Thurso, via Ding'
the waters contain considerable sulphuret- wall and Hclvisdale.
3d hydrogen gas, also saline ingredients, For description of route to Dingwall, see
which give them a high repute. Excur- Route No. 45. Railway to Wick, 7 hours
sions are often made from this point to Ben =
fare, <£1 3*-. $5 75. 'Time to Thurso, S
Wyvis, 3415 feet high, distance ten miles. hrs. 40 min. ;fare, £1 2s. =^'o 50. This
To the Falls of Jiorjie, distant about five railway was finished in 1874. Turning to
miles, is a pleasant drive. The fivll is form- the north at Diugwall, the road passes
ed by the river which issues from Loch along the shore of Cromarty Firth, close
Garve. to Fowlis Castle, the seat of the Munrofam-
Quitting the valley of Pefferv, and cn- ilv, the head of the clan.
VoL. I.— F2 129
EVAKTOX. [SCOTLAND.] Wick.
At Evanton, situated on the Ugly Burn, : of the Firth Skelbo Castle maybe seen. This
•n-hich flows out of Loch Glass, there is a was the former residence of the Sutherland
most interesting cataract, although mostly family. About a mile from the hotel is
invisible, the channel being too small for situated the present magnificent residence
the quantity of water which passes for of the Duke of Sutherland, Z';/?i?-oW« Castle.
nearly two miles of its course, plunging The grounds are perfectly charming, and
through a fissure in the rock nearly two '
hundred feet deep, creating the most wild the absence of the duke's family^ The
and mysterious subterranean sounds im- castle was founded by Robert, second Earl
aginable. At the mouth of the stream is of Sutherland, in 1097, whence its name
Balcony House, built on the foundations of Dunrobin but the additions and restora-
;
an ancient castle belonging to the Earls tions since that time have been many, and
of Ross. Eight miles farther Invergorden I
it isnow one of the most commodious pal-
is reached. Hotel, Commercicd. This is j
aces in Scotland. The entrance-hall is
quite a flourishing little sea-port. To the i
very beautiful it is lined with Avhite pol-
;
west may be seen the ruins of Invergorden ished stone, and hung with banners. The
Castce, burned down in 1804 ; to the east, ;
state rooms, especially prepared for her
Tarbat House, the residence of tha Mar- '
from a fine bridge which here spans a con- are caught here annually. The town is
tracted portion of the Dornoch Firth, In- situated at the head of a small bay, on the
vercarron is reached. It was here that north side of the Wick Water. The her-
Montrose met his final defeat in 1650, when ring-fishing commences in July and ends
at the head of King Charles's troops, in September, and on a fine summer's
Lairg Station, about a mile and a half morning the view from the shore of over
from the village, is situated on Loch Shin, one thousand boats like flies upon a polished
a lake noted for its fine trout. The fish- mirror is quite delightful. The romance
ing is good here in every direction. of the herring-fishing is much dissipated
Golspie. Hotel, Sutherland Arms. A on an examination of hundreds of gutting-
pleasant village situated at the northern troughs, or small wooden sheds, which
shore of the Dornoch Firth. It consists surround the harbor. These are filled with
of one long street. On the southern shore women, who, in a singular costume, cover-
130
John O'Groat's. [SCOTLAND.] Thurso.
ed with blood and scales, gut and clean the there must have been nine servants, nine
fish as fast as they are carried from the soups, nine fishes, etc., etc.]
boats. About one mile and a half to the ea.st is
In addition to the trade carried on by Duncansby Head, the most northerly prom-
coasting sm:icks, steamers from London, ontoiy of Scotland. Passing Btirrogill Cas-
Hull, and Aberdeen touch here regularly. tle, one of the seats of the Earl of Caith-
There are numerous ruins of old castles ness, and Scarskerry, a village owned by
in the vicinity which may be visited with the same earl, the population of which are
interest. occupied in manufacturing paving stones,
Returning to Georgemas Junction, which we arrive at Dunnet village, paved Avith
we passed coming to Wick, we continue on the Caithness tiags. Then the village of
toward the north, and in half an hour ar- Murkle to
rive at Thurso. Thurso. Hotel, Royal. This town is
[A walking excursion may be made to finely situated on the hanks of the River
Thurso by John O'Groat's House, distance Thurso. It contains 2500 inhabitants, who
thirty-seven miles; eighteen from Wick. are mostly occupied, like those of Scars-
Passing through the village ofRelss, seven kerry, in the manufacture of the Caith-
miles and a half, where there is a pictur- ness paving-stones. It boasts of consider-
esque castle belonging to the McLeay able antiquity, and was formerly the prin-
family, and Freshtvick Castle, the property cipal trading-port between Scotland and
of the Mowatts, thence to John 0^ Groat's the Scandinavian kingdom. East of the
House is about one mile and a half. This town stands Thurso Castle, the seat of the
house, of world-wide reputation as the Sinclair family, and in the same direction,
most northerly habitation in Great Britain, nearer the coast, may be seen Harold's
might do very well for a picnic party at Tower, erected over his tomb. He was at
the present writing (1875), as it consists one time owner of the Shetland Islands,
solely of some grass-covered mounds but ; Caithness, and one half of the Orkneys.
it is really surprising that some canny Scot He was killed in 1190, in combat with his
never thought of keeping the house up — namesake, Harold the Wicked.
Yankee would have made a fortune out of To the northwest are the ruins of Scrab-
its notoriety, as a house of entertainment stet Castle, once the residence of the Bish-
during the season. There are numerous ops of Caithness.
answers given to the queries who was John Inverness to Stornoway. Railway to Ding-
O'Groat? and whence the name.' Some wall (see Route No. 45). From Dingwall
say he was a poor ferr^^-man, who for a mail-coaches start three times each week
groat conveyed passengers to the island of to Ullapool, passing the Falls of Strome.
Stroma, in Pentland P'irth. The groat was From Ullapool to Stornoway, steamer four
a coin, issued in the time of Edward III., times per week.
of the value of fourpence, and called groat,
or great, because previous to that date the
English had no larger silver coin than one
penny. Other historians say that John
was the descendant of a Hollander, Do
Groot, who several centuries since settled
in this vicinity, and that yearly he, with
eight of his cousins, celebrated the memors-
of some ancestor, and that on each occa-
sion quarrels arose as to who should take
precedence, until finally John invented a
method of settling the difficulty. He con- ROUTE No. 47.
structed a room with nine sides, each con- Inverness to Perth, via Blair-Athol. the
taining a door with a banqueting-table to Pass of Killiecrankie, and Dunkeld. By
correspond, that all might enter at the railway. Time 9 hrs. ; fare, £1 4*. = $6.
same time, and all preside at the head of About four miles from Inverness Ciillo-
the table. It must have been a very ex- den Station is passed, about one mile from
tensive and expensive establishment, as Culloden Moor, wliere, on the IGth of April,
LSI
CuLLODEN Moor. [SCOTLAND]. DUNKELD.
1746, the celebrated battle of Culloden Avas the Grant family, and Castle Grant, with
fought, and the Highland army under its surroundings of magnificent trees, is
of the railway, and the starting-point to visited what many think the pearl of all
Lochs Katrine, Vennachar, and Achray. the Scottish lakes, exceeding all the oth-
Coaches start three times each day during ers both in variety, extent, and splendor.
the season to Loch Katrine. Steamers in At every point of view the landscape is
correspondence. Do not stop at Callan- particularly picturesque and beautiful.
dar. There is a fine hotel on the Lake. The steamers which take passengers
To the southwest notice the celebrated from Inversnaid to Balloch, at the foot of
Mountain of Ben Lodi, which rises to the the lake, stop at Tarbet. This, perhaps,
height of 2381 feet. A magnificent view is the most lovely spot on the entire lake
is obtained from the bridge which cross- charming —islands, verdant meadows, soft
es the River Teith wnthin a short distance and sylvan" beauty on every hand. Pas-
of your hotel. Coaches leave on the arri- sengers are landed here for Arrochar, at
val of the train ever}' morning for the the head of Loch Lo*lg, which is separated
Trosachs, a distance of eight and a half from Loch Lomond by a narrow neck of
miles, passing along the northern border land, whence they may be conveyed by
of Loch Vennachar. Two miles from Cal- steamer to Glasgow, or by coach to Inver-
lander we reach "Coilantogle Ford," ren- ar}' via Glencoe. Nearly opposite Tarbet
dered historical by Sir Walter Scott. This is a cliflf called Rob Roy's Prison, where
was the spot to which Roderick Dhu prom- that noted chieftain formerly kept his pris-
ised to conduct Fitz-James in safety and, oners confined until tlieir ransom was paid.
;
having discharged his obligation of host It is said that he let them down from the
to that knight, he challenged him to mor- top of the clifF by a rope, and there kept
tal combat them until they had made up their minds
'• And here his course tlie cliieftain stayed, about their ransom. At the head of the
Threw down his target and his plaid, lake stands Balloch Castle, once the strong-
And to the Lowland warrior said,
' Bold Saxon, to his promise just, hold of the Lenox family. The cars start
Yich-Alpine has discliarged his trust. fro^i the town of Balloch for Glasgow on
Now man to man, and steel to steel, the arrival of the boat.
A chieftain's vengeance thou shalt feel. At Tarbet there is a first-class house,
See here, vantageless I stand,
all
Armed, like thyself, with single brand; Tarbet Hotel, admirably managed by its
For this is Coilantogle Ford, proprietor, Mr. Macpherson. It has prob-
"
And tliou must keep thee with tliy sword.' ably the finest situation on the lake, and
It isfrom the lovely Loch A^ennachar that is most centrally placed for making excur-
Glasgow is in part supplied with pure Ava' sions.
ter. It is about five miles in length, and
contains about 900 square acres of water.
Hence to Loch Katrine the glen receives
the nameof Trosachs. wliich means bris-
tled territor3\ This end of Loch Katrine
is perhaps one of the most lovely spots in ROUTE No. 49.
Scotland. Here you take a small steamer, Inverness to Perth, via Elgin, Macduff,
and soon leave the sylvan beauty of the and Aberdeen. Time, 8 hrs. 45 min.
lower end of the lake for the rugged alpine For description of Nairn and Forres, see
grandeur of the upper. The lake is about Route No. 45.
nine miles long, and the steamer occupies Thirteen miles from Forres the town of
about one hour in making the passage. E!gin is reached. (Tliere are numerous fino
Tourists find coaches waiting for them on old ruins passed.) Hotel. Gordon Arms.
the arrival of the steamer at Stronachlach- This is the principal town in Moray-
er, which convey them over a fine road to shire, and contains 7500 inhabitants. It
Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond. The beauty is finely situated on the banks of the Los-
of this place has been immortalized by sie, and contains the ruins of the most
Wordsvrorth in his "Highland Girl:" stately ecclesiastical edifice in Scotland.
" The lake, the hay, the waterfall, The Elgin Cathedral Avas founded l)y the
And thee, the spirit of them all." Bishop of Moray in 1223. The building
The praises of the beauty of Loch Lo- is double-towered, and is in most elegant
mond are on the lips of every one who has proportions. It was burned down by
,134
Fochabers. [SCOTLAND.] Aberdeen.
Alexander Stewart, natural son of Robert the splendid residence of the Earl of Fife.
'
II., called the " Wolf of Badenoch," on the It contains numerous portraits of members
occasion of the Feast of St. Botolph. It of the family hy old masters, such as Van-
was again restored, and in 1538 the cen- dyke, Velasquez, etc., also by Sir Joshua
tral steeple built but thirty years later the Reynolds, and others of a more modern
;
purpose of raising funds to carry on the ference, and with the house can be visited
•war, and in 1640 the General Assembly on stated days of the week; these days
ordered the complete demolition of the in- may be ascertained at the hotel.
terior. The Chapter- house is now the On the road to Portsoy, about five miles
part in the best state of preservation. from Banft', is situated the ruins of the
There is a monument in the church to Castle of Bnyne, formerly the seat of the
the Duke of Albany, beheaded in 1481. Elphinstones. }
mile west of the town, is a monument to tains an old church, once the property of
the last Duke of Gordon, who died in 183G. the Knights Templars. It was in this
The burial-place of the family is in the village that the first blood was shed in the
south aisle of the old cathedral. civil war of Scotland.
An excursion should be made from Elgin Passing Auchterless Station, yvh^r a may
to riuscardlne Abbey, a distance of six be seen Tolly Castle, now a farm-house,
miles. formerly the seat of the Barclay family,
Another to Fochaberc. Hotels, Rich- Fyi'ie Station is reached. Here stands
mond and Gordon Arms. This is an ap- Fyvie Castle, situated on the eastern bank
pendage to the Castle of Gordon, and is a of the River Ythans. It is in an excellent
quiet, pleasant village. At its eastern end state of preservation, and belongs to the
there a fine educational establishment
is family of Gordon of Fyvie. It dates from
founded by a Mrs. Milne, who made a large the 13th century but was restored by the
;
fortune in New Orleans. Close to the Earl of Dunfermline about the beginning
town is Gordim Castle, the princely seat of of the 17th.
the Duke of Richmond. The castle is a Passing Inveramsay Junction, the di-
large building of 510 feet frontage, four rect route to Keith and Inverness, we ar-
stories in height, situated in a fine park rive at Aberdeen, which contains a popula-
of 1300 acres. It was formerly the seat tion of 88,125. Hotels, Roynl Douglas,
of the Dukes of Gordon, but their title be- Northern, and ImpeHal. Its principal man-
came extinct in 183G, and it is now the ufactures are cotton, fiax, wool, and iron.
property of the Duke of Richmond. Ship-building is carried on to a considera-
keith Junction Station. A
small town ble extent, and the Aberdeen clippers vie
situated on the banks of the Isla. It con- with the Baltimore in their reputation.
tains a very pretty Catholic chapel, which This is the principal city in the north of
holds a painting, used as an altir-piece, Scotland, and ranks next to Edinburgh
representing the incredulity of Thomas. and Glasgow in general importance. It
It was presented to the chapel by Charles is finely situatetlat the mouth of the River
X., King of France. Dee. near its confluence with the German
A
road from Keith connects with the Ocean, and is chiefly I>uilt of granite, which
main Caledonian line. is the local stone. The harbor not having
Banff. Hotel, Fife Arms. town of A sufficient capacity for its extensive trade,
considerable importance, finely situated at new and extensive works, including a
the mouth of the River Deveron. containing breakwater, are now in course of erection
7500 inhabitants. It contains several pub- to obviate that difficulty.
lic buildings, and Banff a modern
Cas'Ie, The River Doe is spanned by a fine old
structure, the residence of Earl of Sea-
tlie bridge, built in the early part of the six-
field, built on the site of an ancient castle teenth century, which was the scene of
in which the kings of Scotland resided many struggles during the civil war in
when visiting the place. In the imme- Scotland. Aberdeen was granted a char-
diate vicinity, near INIacduff, is Duff House, ter bv William the Lion as carlv as 1178,
135
Aberdeen. [SCOTLAND.] Banchory.
but previous to that time was a place of are nearh' all that remain of the original
considerable importance. college.
The principal buildings are the town and " Balgownie's Brig," immortalized by
county buildings, including a Music-hall: Byron in his tenth canto of Don Juan,
the}' are in the modern Gothic style, and stands about a mile from Old Aberdeen.
verj-^ handsome. The Trades-Hall is also It consists of a single Gothic arch, resting
a tine granite building, containing por- on a rock at each side, and said to have
by Jameson.
traits been built by King Eobert I. (?) Notwith-
The East and West Churches are worthj' standing its age, it has withstood all the
of a visit between the two there is a tower
; I
modern floods Avhich have swept all other
and transept of an antique church of the , bridges away.
12th century. 1
No. 68 Broad Street, in New Aberdeen,
At the upper end of Castle Street stands is shown where Byron as a boy lived with
the Don. It is noted for its old cathedral are twelve feet thick. It has been re-
and college. The first was founded in stored, and is at present occupied by a
1396, and dedicated to St. Machar. It member of the Irvine famil}-. The Ir-
consists of a nave flanked by two towers. vines of Drum are of considerable antiqui-
The choir seems never to have been fin- ty. Passing Crathes Station, from a mass
ished, and nothing remains of the transepts of sloping woodland the fine old castle of
but the foundation, having been crushed Crathes is visible (the seat of Sir James
by the fall of the central spire, which had Home Burnett), we aiTive at
been undermined by Cromwell's soldiers. Banchory, a picturesque village, situated
A south of the cathedral stands
little at the junction of the Feugh with the Dee.
King's founded in 1-19-4, in the
College, Hotel, Burnett A rms. Those fond of trout-
reign of James III., by the Bishop of Aber- fishing should make an excui'sion up the
deen. It is now united with Mareschal Feugh River, where trout abound.
College, the two forming the University of Four miles farther, and Glassal Station
Aberdeen. The chapel and ancient tower is passed, a little to the north of the Hill of
136
LUMPHANAN. [SCOTLAND.] Balmoral Castlk
Fure, where Mary Queen of Scots witness- "• Slmdes of the dead, have I not heard your voices
l;ie on the niglitrolliny breath of the gale ?
ed the battle of Corrichie in 15C2, where Surely the soul of tlie liero rejoices.
Moray and Huntly fought, ending in the And rides on the wind o'er his own Highland
defeat of the latter, who was slain, and with vale.
whom the power of the house of Gordon Round Loch na Gar while the stonny mist
gathers,
departed. Winter presides in his cold icy car
Passing Torpkin^s Station, two miles to Clouds there encircle the fomi of my fathers;
the right of which is the village oi Kincar- They dwell in the tempests of dark Loch na
— —
dine O'Xeil hotel, Gordon Arms much fre-
Gar."
quented in summer by invalids for its fine The mountain is 3800 feet above the level
bracing air, we arrive atLumpkanan, close to of the sea, and if the ascent is made from
which are the remains of an ancient fortifica- Ballater, a guide should be taken from the
tion, called the "Peel-bog." It is an earthen hotel. The ascent is generally made, how-
mound, about one hundred and twenty feet ever, from Braemar.
in diameter and fifteen in height, surround- Seven miles farther, on theleft bank of
ed by a dike, six feet high and ten thick, the Dee, Ahergeldie Castle is passed. This is
made to retain the water from the small generally occupied by the Prince of Wales
brook Lumphanan. A castle is supposed when visiting Scotland.
to have stood on the mound. It is thought Next we arrive at Balmoral Castle, -winch.
by some writers that Macbeth made his is the Scottish summer residence of Queen
last stand here, and farther on is MacbeiJis Victoria, and is rich in deer - stalking,
Cairn, marking the spot where, according grouse - shooting, the best of fishing, and
to tradition, he was wounded or slain by every kind of Highland game. The prop-
Macduff when fleeing from his castle of erty', most of which was formerly the pos-
side of the Dee is Ballatrich, where Byron , bridge across the river at Balmoral.
spent some time when a child. The scen- The ascent of Benabourd is a favorite
ery created a lasting impression on the excursion of her majesty, from whence
I
his mother lived is still pointed out. Beyond Crathie there is a cairn to com-
The road now passes an obelisk erected memorate the marriage of the Princess
to the memory of Farquharson of Jlonal- Alice, and another of the Princess Roj-al.
tric, then the Pannanich" Wells, a hydro- Near the river there is a small mound cov-
pathic establishment, and arrives at ered with firs, called Cairn-na-cuinihnue.
Ballater. Hotel, InvercauklA rms. This In former times it was the habit of the
town is finely situated in a most healthy clan Farquharsons, on the eve of any war-
position, in the vicinity of numerous min- like expedition, for each man to deposit a
eral vrell:^, whose traditional virtues are as stone, and on their return to remove them.
old as the country, and are much resorted The stones which remained exhibited the
to during the summer. The amusements number of the clan which had been slain.
of the place are numerous, salmon and trout Passengers and horses stop for refresh-
fishing (one must pay a tritie for the priv- ments at Inver Inn.
ilege) and mountain excursions. The prin- Crossing the bridge at Invercauld, the
cipal are to iNIorven (•28.*0 feet) and Loch- view from which is very charming, the
nagar, to the top of which is distant twelve road winds round the foot of Craig-Cluny,
miles from Ballater, and which Byron has a peak of solid granite, covered with pines
rendered famous and overhanging the road. At some dis-
137
Castleton of Braemar. [SCOTLAND.] Stirling.
tance up the mountain there are the foun- of ponj^ $4, guide $1 25. The carriage
dation -walls of an old castle called the road is good up to the River Geldy, after
"Laird of Cluny's Charter Chest," cer- crossing which the Earl of Fife's residence
tainly in a most unassailable position. The (Bainoch Lodge) is passed, and the road
valley now expands, and Invsrcaidd House, becomes a bridle-path through Glen Tilt,
Mith its beautiful domain, comes in sight, a steep and narrow pass, as if the rocks
passing which we arrive at had been split asunder to let the small
Castleton of Braemar. \lote\s, Fisher's stream (the Tariff) run through it.
Twenty -one miles from Braemar and
'
tion of the Cluny and Dee, 1200 feet above His forest here covers over one hundred
the level of the sea, consequently the air is thousand acres, and is said to contain fif-
of a pure and bracing quality. The place teen thousand head of red deer. When
is almost entirely encircled with mountains, the Prince and Princess of Wales were here
but up to their summits clothed in green. in 1872, three thousand of them were driven
The surrounding country is one vast deer- together for their examination.
forest, owned by the Farquharsons of In- There is a good road from this point to
vercauld, Lord Skene, Her Majesty the Blair-Athol, passing numerous pretty falls
Queen, and the Duke of Athol. and cascades on the way.
The excursions from Braemar are nu- Blair-Athol (see Route No. 47).
merous, and the traveler can spend weeks
in making them. Braemar Castle can not Braemar to Blairgoicrie. Route 50, B. —
make much boast as regards its beauty it ; —
This is the most direct route back to
was probably built fur a barrack to keep Edinburgh. Coaches run every day to
—
the Highlanders in check, and has only Blairgowrie distance thirty -five miles
been used for that purpose. from whence there is a branch railway to
Coaches leave Braemar daily for the the Perth and Montrose line.
station at Ballater. Every other day fur Private caiTiages may be obtained from
Blairgowrie and Dunkeld, and, unless the the hotel proprietors either at Blairgowrie
traveler wish to make a pedestrian tour, or at Braemar.
he had better take one of the two routes for The road passes over one of the Grampian
the purpose of visiting other scenes. ranges, and is a very interesting route, as
From Braemar (o A viemore. by the Linn far as scenery is concerned, but there is
of Dee, Wells of Bee, and the Larig Rue nothing special to describe.
Pass. This is a distance of thirty- five
miles and as there are no houses of en-
;
the other buildings, it includes the old pal- Underneath the outer wall of the castle
ace built by James V. and the Parliament there is a narrow precipitous road, which
House. Tiie castle is now used as a bar- leads from the town, called "Ballangeich,"
rack for the soldiers. One of the most in- signifying " windy pass," It was by this
teresting rooms is that called the Douglas name that James V. was known in the lo-
Room, in which William, Earl of Douglas, cality Avhen making his nocturnal visits
was assassinated by James II. This haugh- for business or for pleasure.
ty noble, having, in conjunction with the "An adventure, which had nearly cost
Earls of Ross and Crawford, conspired James have taken place
his life, is said to
against the king, was invited by that mon- at the village of Cramond, near Edinburgh,
arch to Stirling, with the king's word of where he had rendered his addresses ac-
safe-conduct. While in this room, James ceptable to a pretty girl of the lower rank.
tried to persuade liim to abandon his evil Four or five persons, whether relations or
intentions, which Douglas refused to do, lovers of his mistress is uncertain, beset
when the king, becoming incensed at his the disguised monarch as he returned from
stubboi-nness, stal)I)ed him to the heart his rendezvous. Naturally gallant, and
the attendants, entering, threw his body an admirable master of his weapon, the
out of the window. In the chapel of the king took post on the liigh and narrow
castle ]Mary was crowned Queen of Scots. bridge over the Almond River, and defend-
Her son, James VI., was also baptized here. ed himself bravely witii his sword. A
peas-
From the heights of Stirling no less than ant, who was thrashing in a neighboring
twelve battle-fields are in sight, on one of barn, came out upon the noise, and, whether
which Bruce secured the independence of moved by compassion or by natural gal-
Scotland by the great battle of Bannock- lantry, took the weaker side, and laid about
burn in 1.814. William "\^'a^aoe also with his flail so effectually as to disperse
achieved a great victory over the English the assailants, well thrashed, even accord-
in 1287. Stirling was the birthplace of ing to the letter. He then conducted the
James and V.. and was a favorite resi-
II. king into his barn, where his guest re-
dence of James VI., Avho was crowned in (piested a basin and towel, to remove the
the old church in the town, the famous re- stains of the broil. This being procured
former, John Knox, pi'eaching the corona- with difiiculty, James employed himself in
tion sermon. The tield of Bannockbmm, learning what was the summit of his de-
where Robert de Bruce, with 30,000 sol- liverer's earthly wishes, and found that
diers, vanquished the English army of they were bounded by the desire of pos-
100,000, is one of the "lions" of the vicin- sessing, in property, the farm of Braehead,
ity. upon which he labored as a bondsman.
The valley between the Grayfriars' The lands chanced to belong to the Crown,
Church and the Castle, now used as a and James directed him to come to the
cemeter}' and public garden, was in olden Palace of Ilolyrood, and inquire for the
times the tournament ground, and from the Gudeman (i. c. farmer) of Ballangeich, a
" Ladies Rock," wliere the noble dames of name by which he was known in his ex-
former times ui^nessed the sports, the best cursions, and which answered to II Bon-
position is now obtained to view the de- docani of Haroun Alraschid. He present-
lightful surroundings. ed himself accordingly, and found with
The Grampian ^Mountains are in full due astonishment that he had saved his
view conspicuous are the peaks of Ben monarch's life, and that he was to be grat-
:
Lomond, Ben Ledi, and Ben Venue, while ified with a crown charter of the lands of
139
JSCOTLAND.J Kinross.
head, who still possesses the estate which cause the water, surging from one side to
was given appeared at a the other, produces a noise like that of a
to his ancestor,
solemn festival, and offered his majesty mill in motion. A walk of two miles
water from a silver ewer." A statue of should be taken to the "Caldron Linn,"
!
Robert Bruce, by A. Cnn-ie, was erected where the whole body of the Devon pre-
j
on the esplanade in front of the castle in cipitates itself through a deep gap, making
i
1877. I
two falls, the last of which is forty -four
Leaving Stirling, pass the town of
we feet deep.
Alva, containing 4300 inhabitants, noted We
now arrive at Kinross. Hotels, *S'(/^
for its tartan manufactories. Notice on utation and KlrklancVs. The town is noted
an eminence to the east of the town Alva mostly visited on ac-
for its cutler}'-, but is
House, the residence of Mr. Johnstone. The count of its contiguity to "Lochleven Cas-
mansion dates from the reign of Charles tle." Loch Leven is from eight to ten miles
II., and the grounds are very beautiful. in circumference, and is about two miles
Passing Tillicoultrie, beautifull}'^ situated I
in width at the western end, narrowing to-
on the Devon River, also devoted to the j
ward the east. On the western side are
manufactory^ of tartans, we arrive at :
four small islands, the principal of which
Dollar. Hotel, Ccistle Camphell. very A is Castle Island. Here are the remains of
pretty village, whence excursions are made the old castle where Queen Mar}' was im-
to Castle Campbell, one mUe distant. This ;
prisoned for eleven months, after her sur-
romantic ruin is situated on the top of a render at Carbery Hill in 1567, and whence
high and almost inaccessible rock, the base I
she effected her escape. The kej^s of the
of v/hich is surrounded by dark foliage and castle, throAvn into the lake on the night of
two rushing streams, one of which is called her departure, were found by a native of
the "Water of Care,"' the other the "Burn Kinross three centuries later, and were pre-
of Sorrow,"' while the castle itself, up to sented b}' him to the Earl of Morton. Her
1493, was called the "Castle of Gloom," gaoler Mas a former mistress of James V.,
and the valley "Dolour," now Dollar — I
the head of Loch Lomond, in which case "The Earls of Menteith, yon must know,
he will take the steamer at Balloch. Or, had a castle, situated upon an island in tho
if going to Loch Menteith to visit " Queen lake, or loch, as it is called, of the same
Mary's Bower," or to Aberfoyle, where name. But though this residence, which
Bailie Nicol Jarvic went to meet Rob Roy, occupied almost the whole of the islet,
in botli cases he will stop at Port of Men- upon which its ruins still exist, was a
teith Station, the nearest point to the lake. strong and safe place of abode, and adapt-
The
rivers Clyde and Forth are connect- ed accordingly to such perilous times, it
ed the Junction Railway, over which we
l)y had this inconvenience, that the stables
now pass. On the left bank of the Forth and other domestic offices were construct-
are the Gargunnock Hills, where the En- ed on the banks of the lake, and were,
glish forces had their fort to protect them therefore, in some sort defenseless.
against the attack of Wallace. " It happened upon a time that there
Thirteen miles from Stirling and Men- was to be a great entertainment in the
teith is reached here carriages can be
: castle, and a number of the Grahams were
hired to visit Lake Menteith, four miles dis- assembled. The occasion, it is said, was a
tant. Hotel, Loch Menteith, where boats marriage in the family. To prepare for
can be hired to visit the two small islands this feast, much provision was got read}',
in the centre of the lake these are call-
: and in particular a great deal of poultry
ed Inch- Machome, or the "Isle of Rest," had been collected. While the feast was
and Talla, or "Enrl's Isle. The former preparing, an unhappy chance brought
contains the ruins of the Priory of Inchmac- Donald of the Hammer to the side of the
home, where Queen ^laxj resided during lake, returning at the head of a band of
the invasion of the English in 15-17, before hungry followers, whom he was conduct-
A
[
she went to France. little garden is ing homeward to the West Highlands, aft-
shown on the island called "Queen Mary's er some of his usual excursions into Stir-
Bower," which it is said she kept herself, j
lingshire. Seeing so much good victuals
The monastery, the architecture of which i
read}', and being possessed of an excellent
is in the Early English style, was erected bj'- appetite, the Western Highlanders neither
the monks of the Augustine order. The only !
asked questions nor waited for an invita-
portion which remains is the tower arch, tion, but devoured all the provisions that
j
two arches of the nave, and part of the had been prepared for the Grahams, and
choir. In the chancel are the tomb of the then went on their way rejoicing, through
founder, and the recumbent monument of the difficult and dangerous path wliich
two figures, male and female, supposed leads from the banks of the Lake Menteith
from the shield to be Walter Stuart, younger through the mountains to the side of Loch
brother of the Steward of Scotland, and his Katrine.
wife, a sister of the Countess of Menteith. " The Grahams were filled with the
The knight is in full armor, with legs cross- highest indignation. The company who
ed, and the arm of the female affectionately were assembled at the castle of Menteith,
wound around his neck. This monument headed by the earl himself, hastily took
of tenderness seems to have been respected to their boats, and, disembarking on the
by all ages, as it is the best preserved of northern side of the lake, pursued with all
all. The island is now the property of the speed tho marauders and their leader.
Duke of Montrose. They came up with Donald's party in the
The smaller island of Talla contains the gorge of a pass, near a rock called Craig-
remains of the castle of the Grahams, Earls Vad, or the Wolfs Cliff. The battle then
111
Aberfoyle. [SCOTLAND.] Dunblane.
Donald, favored by darkness, escaped with Stirling to Oban^ via Dunblane^ Callander
a single attendant. The Grahams obtain- (the Grave of Rob Roy), and Tyndrum
ed, from the cause of the quarrel, the nick- (the Land of Rob Roy).
name of Gramoch-an-Garrigh, or Grahams From Stirling to Callander b}' rail in 45
of the Hens." minutes. Thence to Loch Lomond by
Five miles from Loch Menteith is Aber- coach (see Route No. 48). Steamer to
foyle. Hotel, Bailie Nicol Jarvie. This Ardlin, thence by coach to Oban in eight
is the scene of so many incidents in Scott's hours. If the traveler has made Route
novel of Rob Roy that lovers of that great No. 48, then he had better continue by rail
novelist will be delighted to visit it. It is from Callander to Tyndrum, and thence
romantically situated at the junction of b}' coach to Oban, in six hours. Fare
the Forth and Duchray rivers. It was from Tyndrum to Oban, $3 50.
here that Frank Osbaldeston and the bailie Leaving Stirling by the Perth Railway,
went to meet Rob Roy. and passing Abbey Craig, on which stands
A short distance farther is Loch Ard, a the monument erected to the hero Wallace,
very beautiful little lake, on which there the interesting village of the Bridge of
is a small island, Diindochil, with the Allan is reached. Hotels, Queen's and Roy-
ruins of a castle built by the Duke of Al- al. This is a popular watering-place,
bany, uncle to James I. At the northern three miles from Stirling, which derives
end the River Ledard falls into the lake, its name from the River Allan, which flows
forming two pretty waterfalls. On the through the village. It is noted for the
eastern side the encounter between Helen beauty of its scener\', its salubrious cli-
Macgregor and the king's troops took place. mate, and the mineral springs of Airthrey,
The distance to Loch Lomond from the the waters of which arc collected in cis-
eastern end of the lake is six miles there
; terns formed in an old copper mine. The
is only a foot-path to Rowardennan. grounds and spa are the property of Lord
Returning to Station Menteith, and con- Abercromby, who has erected a handsome
tinuing our route toward Glasgow, Balfron well-house, with a billiard-room, reading-
is passed. This town is handsomely sit- room, and bowling-green attached. The
uated on the Endrick River, which flows waters are chiefly beneficial in skin dis-
intoLoch Lomond. The Glasgow Water- eases, stomach complaints, and aftections
works are here crossed, which convey the of the liver. In the vicinity of the town
water used in Glasgow from Loch Katrine. stands the seat of Lord Abercromby, Airth-
Drymtn, near which is Buchanan House, rey Castle. Admittance to the grounds
the seat of the Duke of Montrose; then every Thursday. Also Keir, the residence
Strathhlane, the seat of the earl of the of Sir William Stirling Maxwell. The
same name; between which and MUnr/avie park is very beautiful, and the house con-
is situated the Mugdock Reservoir, which tains some fine paintings. Three miles
lies311 feet above the sea level it contains
: from the Bridge of Allan is Dunblane. Ho-
200,000,000 gallons of water, which is con- tel, Dunblane^ finely situated on the left
veyed into Glasgow by seven pipes. bank of the Allan. Here is a magnificent
Passing Kilmaronock and Jamestown, cathedral, founded by King David I. in
j5a7foc^ is reached. Hotel, 5a?/ocA. Trav- 1140. The choir the onlv part in repair,
is
elers going up Loch Lomond take steamer and is used as the parish church the arch-
;
here, or, if continuing on to Glasgow, itectural beauty of the nave is greatly ad-
changecars. Time to Glasgow, oOminutes. mired, also the western window. The site
of the battle of Sheriffmuir lies two miles
northeast of Dunblane. This battle took
place in 1715 between the Highland clans
under the Earl of Mar and the ro3\al troops
under the Duke of Argyle. The battle
was indecisive, and is forcibly descrilied in
the old song
142
DOONE. [SCOTLAND.] Ardlix.
"Some say that we wan, Continuing the roate from Douno, the
Some say that they wan, road passes the celebrated Braes of Doune,
And some say that iiane wan at a', man; and enters into that locality with which
But o' ae thin^ I'm sure,
That at .Slieriffmuir all readers of tiie " Lady of the Lake 'must
A battle therewas that I saw, man; be thoroughly conversant in fact, for this
;
An' we ran, an' they ran, route it is the best guide-book extant. We
An' tliey ran, an' we ran,
An' we ran, an' tliey ran awa', man." are now near Clan-Alpine's outmost guard,
where Koderick Dhu challenged Fitz-
A large block of whinstcne stands on the James to single combat, and over this
field, inclosed in an iron grating; it is ground Fitz-James and his followers pass-
called the" Gathering Stone of the Clans," ed to Stirling, bearing the wounded hero
and here the Highlanders are said to have prisoner
sharpened their dirks before the l)attle. "They dash'd that rapid torrent tlir.iUgh,
Doune eight miles from Stirling, and
is And up Carhonie's hill they flew ;
contains a fine castle, which was a favorite Still at the gallop prick'd tiie kniglit,
His merry-men loUow'd as tliey inight.
resort of Queen Mary and Darnley. This
Along thv banks, swift Teith they ride,
!
is one of the largest baronial ruins in Scot- And in the race they mock thy tide
land; the walls are forty feet in height Torry and Lendrick now are pa.-t,
and ten feet in thickness. From the tow- And Deanstuun lies behind them cast;
They rise, the baiinei'd towers of Donne,
er a fine view may be obtained. In 17-15
They sink in distant woodland soon ;
this castle was in the possession of the Blair-Diummond sees tiie hoof strike fire,
Pretender Prince Charles, and here he had They sweep like breeze through Ochtertyre;
Tliey mark, just glance, and disappear
his prisoners confined that he had taken
The lofty brow of ancient Keir;
at Falkirk, among whom was Home, the Tliey bathe their coursers' sweltering side?,
author of " Douglas." Dark Forth! amid thy sluggish tides,
" The poet had in his own mind a large And on the oppo-ing slioie take ground,
With plash, with scramble, and with bjund.
stock of that romantic and enthusiastic Kight-hand they leave thy cliffs, Craig-Forth,
spirit of adventure which he has d3scribed And soon tlie bulwark of the North,
as animating the youthful hero of his Gray Stirling, with her towers and town,
Upon their fleet career look'd down."
drama. He inspired his companions with
and when every attempt at
his sentiments, We now pass LanHck Castle^ tlicn Cam-
open force was deemed hopeless, they re- biismore, where Sir Walter Scott resided
solved to twist their bedclothes into ropes, when a youth, and, crossing the Keltie, are
and thus to descend. Four persons, with in the land of the Highlanders.
Home himself, reached the ground in safe- Callander, described in Route No. 48.
ty. But the rope broke with the fifth, Coach to Loch Katrine ; steatner to
who was a tall, lusty man. The sixth Stronachlachar, where coaches are wait-
was Thomas Barrow, a brave young En- ing to convey passengers to Inversnaid, on
glishman, a particular friend of Home's. Loch Lomond, a distance of five miles.
Determined to take the risk, even in such Then steamers to
unfavorable circumstances, Barrow com- Ardlhi, where coaches are taken through
mitted himself to the broken rope, slid Glen Falloch to Crianlarich Hotel, where
down on it as far as it could assist him, coaches are mot from Taymouth and Kil-
and then let himself drop. His friends lin. Or, instead of passing over Lakes
Iteneath succeeded in breaking his fall. Katrine and Lomond, the traveler can
Nevertheless he dislocated his ankle, and continue by rail to Crianlarich in 1 hr.
had several of his ribs broken. His com- 50 min., visiting the " Braes of Balquhii-
panions, however, were able to bear him der," where Bob Roy is buried.
oflf in safety. The Highlanders next morn- After leaving Callander, and proceeding
ing sought ibr their prisoners with great through the romantic Pass of Leny, the
activity. An old gentleman told the au- road passes along the shore of Loch Lub-
thor he remembered seeing the command- nniff, bounded on one side bv the steep de-
er Stewart, clivity of Ben Ledi, and on the other bj' a
* Bloody with spurring, fiery red with hast',' flat bank, which heightens the effect of the
riding furiously through the country" in bold front of Craig-na-Coilig at the angu-
quest of the fugitives." Waverley (note). lar point of the lake.
143
Strathire. [SCOTLAND.] Tyndrum.
Strathire^ at the head of the lake, has
two small hotels, a place of considerable ROUTE No. 54.
resort for anglersand pedestrians. Loch Lomond to Glencoe and Fort Will"
Two miles farther is King's House Station, iam, via Ardlin, Tyndrum, Inveroran, and
where parties wishing to visit the grave Kinffs House.
of Rob Koy can make arrangements -with This route may be made from Edinburgh
the raihvay guard. Two miles up the or Glasgow in the following manner From :
valley, in a church-yard near an old roof- Edinburgh by rail, via Stirling, Callander,
ivy-covered church, are the graves Killin Station, to Tyndrum time, 4 hrs.
less, —
ofRob Roy Macgregor, Helen Macgregor, 40 min. thence by coach via Inveroran
;
and their eldest son, Colin. Some say and Glencoe to Ballachulish, in 5 hrs.
that the slab on the left is the grave of 30 min., and to Fort William in 7 hrs. Or,
Hamish, another son, and that Helen is leaving Glasgow at 7.40 A.M. for Balloch ;
not buried here. On one of the tombs thence by steamer to Ardlin, on Locli Lo-
(they all lie together) the pine - tree is mond. Coach to Tj'ndrum in 2 hrs.
torn up by the roots, and there is a sword thence to Fort William in 7 Fare,
hrs-.
at the junction of the roads from Inverary, a pool after sunset, then bound with ropes
Tyndrum, and the head of Loch Lomond. in a mystic knot, and laid down all night
The road from Dalmally now crosses the on the site of the old church of St, Fillan.
Orchy, then the portion of Glen Strae which If the ropes were unfastened in the morn-
is the head-quarters of the clan Macgregor, ing, the patient was supposed to have re-
and winding around the base of Ben Cru- covered. They were generally found free
achan, arrives at Taynuilt, where there is — that is, dead. This mode of treatment
a very fiur hotel, and a good centre from lasted up to the close of the last century.
which to make excursions, the principal Crossing the River Dochart, near which
of which, the ascent of Ben Cruachan, is " King's Field," where Bruce, after hav-
which not only from its height (3670 feet), ing been defeated by Lord Pembroke at
but its position in the centre of so many ob- Methen, was attacked by Lord Lorn, grand-
jects of historical and scenic interest, makes son of Red Comyn, whom Bruce had killed
it one of the finest excursions in Scotland. at Dumfries. Three of Lorn's followers
From its granite summit may be seen the made a combined attack upon Bruce, and
lovely harbor of Oban, with the islands of were all slain b^' that accomplished swords-
Skye and Jura, and the mountains of Mull, man. In his death-struggle one of the as-
while Ben Nevis, Ben Lomond, Ben Law- sailants clutched the mantle of Bruce, who
ers, the Lochs of Awe, Etive, and Fyne, was compelled to leave it in his hands
with numerous smaller sheets of water, and the brooch by which it was fastened
make up a view scarcely equaled and is still preserved as a trophy in Dunolh^
is a road through Glen Lyon to Taymouth, numerous mineral wells in the vicinity,
we arrive at the Bridge of Urchcvj^ near which have acquired considerable celeb-
which, on the right, are the remains of rity. There is also a large hydropathic
Auchalladtr Castle on Loch Tulla, also a establishment situated on Knock Hill, a
shooting-lodge (Ardvrecknish) of the Mar- short distance from the town, from whence
quis of Breadalbane. there is a magnificent view. Notice near
Inveroran is now reached, where there the Town Hall an antique cross, also the
is a small hotel, and where the privilege iron pillory.
of good fishing may be secured. The A excursion can be made to Toma-
fine
coaches now make a long ascent through on the banks of the
chastle, a hill situated
the droar}^ Deer Forest of Blackmount, the Earn, about three miles from the town.
property of the Marquis of Breadalbane, On the summit of the hill there is a granite
but rented i^y the Earl of Dudley for monument to Sir David Baird. The hill
,•^25,000 per annum. Passing King's Tfouse isappi'oached by a lovely walk along the
and Iduifedh, tlic valley of Glencoe is en-
- 1 banks of the river, called " Lady Mary's
tered. For description, see Route No. 41. Green Walk."
The most interesting excursion, how-
ever, is that to Drummond Castle, now the
p"pperty of Lady Willoughby d'Eresby,
tl; original seat of the noble family of
Drummond, Earls of Perth. The entrance
of the avenue is two miles from Crieff, but
the magnificent avenue of beech - trees
which conducts to the castle is over one
mile long. In front of the castle lies a
terraced flower-garden, which is one of
ROUTE No. 55. the most elegant in the United Kingdom.
Dunkeld to Aherfeldy, Tay-
Crieff^ via Three miles f om Crieff, on the Amulrec
mouth, Killin, Lochearnhead, and Comrie. road, is Moniie Castle, surrounded by some
Or reversing this route, in case the trav- fine old trees, some of which are nearly
eler should be at Edinburgh or Glasgow twenty feet in circumference.
viz., making a two days' trip at a cost of Leaving Crieff for Comrie, which is six
$8 50, including coachmen's fees. miles distant, the River Turrett is crossed,
Leaving Edinburgh at G.30 A.M. during at the mouth of Avhich, on the north bank
the season (it would be well to inquire at of the River Earn, at the junction of Glen
the Caledonian Railway-office, as the hour ,
Lednoch and Glen Artney — and by some
may be changed), arriving at Crieff at supposed to be the site of the famous bat-
10.25. Leave Crieff by coach at 10.35, tle between the Caledonian prince Galga-
arriving at Lochearnhead Station at 3 cus and the Roman general Agricola
P.M. Leave at G.48 by rail,and arrive at j
close to the village, stands Comrie House,
Killin Station Hotel at'^8 P.M. Next day the seat of Sir D. Dundas and on Dun-;
privilege of breaking the journey at any ble." Farther down are the Falls of the
point he pleases. Lednoch, the waters of which form the
Crieff. Hotels, Drummond Arms, Sfetc- " Devil's Caldron.'' On the opposite
art's, and Royal. This town is known for bank of the River Earn lie Aberuchil Cas-
its fresh and invigorating air, and is conse- tle and the handsome modern residence of
quently in high repute among tourists, who Sir David Dundas. Higher up the river
make it a head-quarters for their numerous is the Hill of Dun Fillan it is here that
:
tel, 1 hr. 20 miu. Scotland, being 3984 feet above the level of
Lochearnhead. Hotel, Dayton's. Loch the sea, and most rich in its botanical prod-
Earn is about seven miles long, and of such ucts. The ascent can be most conven-
great depth that it has never been known iently made from Lawers Inn, occupying
to freeze. At the eastern end is a small about two hours. There is a ferry across
islet covered with wood and mounds of the lake at this point.
stones, said to be the remains of a strong- Seven miles from Lawers we pass the
hold belonging to a desperate clan of ban- lodge and kitchen- garden of Taymoufk
ditti — —
the Neishes who were continually Castle, and near the shore there is a small
committing depredations on the neigh- island in the lake, where are the scant re-
boring clans, especially that of the Mac- mains of a celeVjrated priory erected by
nabs. Alexander I. of Scotland over the remains
The chief of the clan Macnab hav- of his wife Sybilla, daughter of Henry I.
ing sent his servants into the Lowlands of England.
for provisions, they were wa3'laid bj' the The nuns were in the habit of going ia
Keishes on their return, and the booty car- procession to the parish church on the an-
ried olF to the island, which so irritated niversary of her death, and this event in
the Macnab that he sent a party of the time became a fair-day, which is still kept
clan, headed by his son, with instructions in Kenmore, and called "Feill nam ban
to exterminate them the party landed on
; naomdh," or the Market of the Holy Wom-
the island in the dead of night, surprised en.
the outlaws, and put them all to the sword, Kenmore. Hotel, Breadalbane Arms.
returning the same night with one of the This is a small collection of houses clus-
robber's heads, and in commemoration of tered around the principal entrance to Tay-
this event assumed for their crest a bloody mouth Castle, the princely mansion of the
bead with the motto "Dreadnought," This Marquis of Breadalbane, a descendant of
clan at one time Avere owners of ail the one of the most ancient houses in Scotland,
eountr}' around, now absorbed by the Bread- and one of the richest and most extensive
albanes. They emigrated to British Amer- landed proprietors in the United Kingdom.
ica, and many of our readers may remem- The castle, which is not shown at the pres-
ber that during the invasion of Canada it ent time, is constructed of slate stone, four
was the head of this clan who sent the stories in height, with round corner towers,
steamer Caroline over the Falls of Niagara. surmounted by a central pavilion, with two
From Lochearnhead Station to Killin wings projecting from the main building.
Station In^ rail in twenty minutes. Omni- The entrance-hall and staircase are very
bus to Killin Hotel, and the Bridge of Lochy beautiful. The original castle was erected
Hotel. This pretty village is situated on by Sir Colin Campbell in 1580, and was
the banks of the rushing Dochart, which formerly called Balloch the present castle;
here encircles two islands, one of which, was erected in 1801, and the west wing add-
covered with beautiful ancient pine-trees, ed in 1842. The picture-gallery contains
is still the cemetery of the Macnabs. some of the best historical portraits and
About one and a half miles from Killin pictures in Scotland but the great charms
;
?t:inds Finlarig Castle, the ancient seat of of the castle are its pleasure-grounds and
til? Breadalbane family, now entirely over- surrounding scenery, where eveiy thing is
grown with ivy and surrounded by majes- combined to create beauty, grandeur, and
tic and venerable trees. The family burial freshness. Admission to the grounds from
vault adjoins the ruin it is consequently 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4 fee, one shilling
:
—
called the cradle and the grave of that an- each person. It is customary to give one
cient house, Avhose property now extends shilling to the dairymaid. The time oc-
146
Aberfeldy. [SCOTLAND.] KiLCHURN CaSTLK.
cupied is nearly one and a half hours. If
traveling -with a private carriage, it had
ROUTE No. 56.
better be sent forward to the Museum and Inverary to Oban by Loch Awe. Invera-
Fort to meet you. From this point the best ry is described in Route No. 42.
view i>f the castle and grounds may be Should the traveler be at Glasgow, and
had, and it was here that (^ueen Victo- wish to make this tour, he can leave there
ria descended from her carriage to obtain at 10 A.M., arriving at Lochgoilhead at
a last glimpse of the enchanting land- 1 P.M. Railway to Greenoch, steamer
scapes which she alludes to in her journal, to Lochgoilhead, thence by coach to St.
" Leaves from the Journal of Our Life in Catharine's in two hours, and cross Loch
the Highlands:"' Fyne to Inverary in twenty minutes, ar-
" We got out and looked from this riving at 3.30 P.M. Taking the coach at
height down upon the house below, the 9 A.M. the following day, via Cladich Pier,
mist having cleared away sufficiently to Dalmally, and Tyndrum, he will arrive at
show us every thing and then unknown,
; Oban at'? P.M.
—
quite in private, I gazed not without deep Passing up the valley of Glen Aray,
emotion —
on the scene of our reception which is splendidly wooded with the finest
twenty years ago by dear Lord Breadal- specimens of trees in Scotland, numerous
bane, in a princely style, not to be equal- waterfalls are met on tlie Aray, which
ed in grandeur and poetic effect. we follow up the glen until we reach its
" Albert and I were then only twenty- summit, when Loch Awe in all its beau-
three, young and happy how many are ty bursts upon the view, surrounded by
:
gone that wei-e with us." bleak and rugged mountains, the highest
Six miles from Kenmore and we arrive of which is Ben Cruachcm, which rises to a
at Aherfddy. Hotel, Breadalbane Arms. height of 3400 feet above the level of the sea.
This village is situated at the junction Descending toward Cladich. where there
of the Tay and ^Moness, the former of is a very fair hotel, a favorite spot for
which is crossed by one of General Wade's sportsmen —
trout, wild duck, and wood-
bridges, near which is Moness House and cock are to be found in abundance. Boats
the Falls of Aberfeldy, or Moness, describ- may be had to visit numerous places of in-
ed by Bums terest in the vicinity, the principal of which
" The braes ascend, like lofty wa's. are Inishail, Irtish Chond., Blairgour, Ard-
The foamy stream deep roaring fa's, honnel Castle., and the Pass of Atce. On
O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaw3, Innis Fraoch are the ruins of an ancient
Tlie birks of Aberfeldy.
castle of the MacNaughtons. Another fa-
The hoaiy cliffs are crown'd wi' flowers,
White o'er the linn the burnie ponrs, vorite spot for sportsmen is Port Sonachan,
And rising, weets wi' misty showers about three miles from Cladicli. Follow-
The Birks of Aberfeldy."
ing the eastern bank of Loch Awe, the
The highest fall is about fifty feet, and coach stops for a short time near a monu-
is two miles up the glen the others are ment erected
; to Duncan Ban ^Maclntj-re,
merely a series of cascades. A fee of one a Gaelic poet.
shilling and sixpence is necessary to open We now pass Kilrhum Castle, situated
the gate to view them. in a meadow near the lake —
it appears as
Dalmally. For description of this place, heaved to the surface hy volcanic agencies,
and the rest of the route to Oban, see Route and had been finally built upon by Nature's
No. 53. Architect.
One of the sights of the island is the
cave of " Uamh Fhraing," where «11 the
inhabitants were suffocated by the clan
MacLeod. It seems that some young men
of the clan MacLeod landed at the island
ROUTE No. 57. of Eigg, where they were hospitably re-
Glasgow Island of Shye and Storna-
to the ceived by the Macdonalds, but having taken
way (on the Island of Lewis'). too much freedom with the 3'oung women,
The swift steamers of Mr. D. MacBrajme's or offered them some insult, they were
fleet will transport the travelers to Oban bound hand and foot and cast adrift in
as described in Route No. 39 leaving Glas-
; an open boat; fortunately the winds and
gow Mondays and Thurs-
or Greenock on waves landed them at Skye, and the Laird
days. At Oban slower steamers, carrying MacLeod made a descent at Eigg with a
goods and passengers, leave twice a week large bod}' of his clan to avenge the insult.
for Stornoway, passing through the Sound The inhabitants concealed themselves in
of Mull, and calling at Tobermory, Crairj- this cave,and could not be found the Mac-
;
nure, Loch Aline. Salen, Arisaig, Armadale Leod had embarked on board his boats,
(Isle of Skve), Glenelg, Balmaccarra, Kyle- after doing what damage he could, when
akin, Broadford, and Portree. suddenly a man was espied on the shore
From Glasgow to Stornoway fare, £1 ; the force again landed, and tracked the
125. =88. Return tickets, £2 85. =$12. footsteps of the man to the mouth of the
Glasgow to Kyleakin (Island of Skye) cave, which they surrounded, summoning
fare, £1 7s. =^6 75. Glasgow to Portree the inhabitants to surrender and deliver up
(Island of Skye); fare, = 87 50.
£1 10s. the authors of the insult. This they re-
Return tickets, $11 05. fused the MacLeod then, stopping up all
;
Leaving Oban Tuesday morning, about outlets to the cave, built an immense fire
6 P.M., on Friday morning at 7 A.M., and of fern and turf at its mouth, which was
proceeding through the Sound of Mull, the maintained until the entire population was
steamer stops at Tobermory, on the Island suffocated.
of Mull. Hotel, Mull. This is the only The steamer now approaches the shores
village on the island, and contains some of Skye, which present a beautiful appear-
1500 inhabitants. The name of the place ance, the Cuchullin Hills and Blaven filling
signifies " St. Marj^'s Well." It is situ- up the background, stopping at Armadale,
ated in a well-protected bay. The place on the Sound of Slcat, near which is the Cas-
was founded in 1788 bj' the British Fish- tle of Armnddle. the seat of Lord Macdon-
ing Company. Close to the village is ald, the largest landholder in Skj^e, and the
Drumfin Castle, one of the ancient posses- head of the clan. The castle is situated
sions of the Laird of Col. There is very on a slope rising up from the shore, in a
good fishing in the vicinity of the hotel verj' fine position. Napoleon's marshal
permission must be obtained. Macdonald, although born in France, was
Arisaig. See Poute No. 43. a descendant of this clan he was made ;
Passing on our left the small island of General of Division at the age of thirtj^,
Ifuck, on which there is nothing of inter- was created Marshal at the battle of Wa-
est, the steamer generally stops off the isl- gram, with the title of Due de Tarente, and
and of Eigg, of most remarkable geological died in 1831, Grand Chancellor of the Le-
construction. Near its centre there is a gion of Honor.
most singular mountain, the top of which The steamer next touches at the Tillage
overlies a forest of petrified trees, in form of Glenelg, on the mainland the surround-
:
of construction like Fingal's Cave, on the ing bay is very fine, abounding in grand
Giant's Causeway. Geologists say that an and picturesque scenery on both sides. At
extensive pine forest once existed in some Glenelg notice the ruins of a barrack built
nameless land, had been swept to sea, en- by the English government to maintain
tombed in the bottom of the ocean, had been order aiaong tbe clans. Passing through
148
L'^x R-m
Kyleakin. [SCOTLAND.] Falkikk.
where the from Edinburgh to he loaded a great wagon with hay but in
direct line '
Stirling joins the line from Glasgow. Four the wagon he placed eight strong men,
miles farther and Linlithgow is reached. well armed, lying flat on their breasts, and
Principal hotel, Star and Garter. Popula- covered over with hay, so that they could
I
seventeen miles from Edinburgh, The stoutest and bravest of his servants to be
chief object of interest here is the palace, the driver, who carried at his belt a strong
part of which was first built by Edward I., axe or hatchet. In this way Binnock ap-
who passed a winter here. j
preached the castle early in the morning
"
and the watchman, who only saw two men,
Of the palaces so fair
all
Built for the royal dwelling, Binnock being one of them, with a cart of
In Scotland, far beyond compare hay, which they expected, opened the gates
Linlithgow is excelling. and raised up the portcullis, to permit them
And in its park in genial June
How sweet the merry linnet's tune."
to enter the castle. But as soon as the
cart had gotten under the gateway, Bin-
It was taken and destroyed by Bruce in nock made a sign to his servant, who with
1307, but -was rebuilt during the minority his axe suddenly cut asunder the soam,
of David IL It is a very picturesque '
at Solway Moss. On being told of her all!' and, drawing the sword which he had
birth, he replied, " Is it so ?" and, thinking under his country habit, he killed the por-
of the alliance that had placed a Stuart on ter. The armed men then jumped up from
the throne Then God's will be done. It
'
' under the ha}' where they lav concealed,
came with a lass, and it will go with a lass ;" and rushed on the English guard. The
and, turning his face to the wall, died. Englishmen tried to shut the gates, but
One side of the square is occupied by the they could not, because the cart of hay re-
chapel. Notice the ruins of the fountain mained in the gateway, and prevented the
in the centre of the quadrangle. folding - doors from being closed. The
The palace was still in a fair state of portcullis was also let fall, but the grating
preservation until 1746, when it was occu- was caught on the cart, and so could not
pied V)y General Hawley's troops the night drop to the ground. The men who were
after their defeat at Falkirk. On leaving, I
in ambush near the gate, hearing the en,',
the}^ set fire to it. }
'
Call all, call all !'
ran to assist those who
Sir Walter Scott, in his "Tales of a had leaped out from among the hay the ;
Grandfather," describes how the castle was : castle was taken, and all the Englishmen
taken from the English : made prisoners. King Robert re-
killed or
"The garrison warded Binnock by bestowing on him an
was supplied with hay
by a neighboring rustic, of the name of estate, which his posterity long afterward
Binnock or Binning, who favored the in- enjoyed. The Binnings of Wallyford, de-
terests of Bruce. Binnock had been or- scended from that person, still bear in their
dered by the English governor to furnish coat armorial a wain loaded with hay, with
"
some cart-loads of hay, of which the}' were the motto, Virtute doloque.' '
in want. He promised to bring it accord- The church,' standing between the pal-
ingly but the night before he drove the ace and the town, was dedicated by David
;
hay to the castle he stationed a party of I. to the archangel Michael, whose image
his friends, as well armed as possible, near may be seen at the southwest angle, and
the entrance, where they could not be seen is one of the finest specimens of Gothic
by the garrison, and gave them directions architecture to be seen in Scotland. No-
that they should come to his assistance as tice the beautiful flamboyant window in
soon as they should hear him cry a signal, St. Catharine's Chapel. It was here that
which was to be —
Call all, call all Then the apparition was seen by James IV.,
'
!
'
150
Newliston. [SCOTLAND.] Edinburgh.
Notice in front of the Town House the Edinburgh and Excursions in the Vicinity.
the great Field-Marshal Stair, who it is said days also from 7 to 9 P.^I.
planted the trees on his estate to repre- Botanic Gardens— Daily, from G A.M. to
sent the position of the troops at the bat- 6 P.:\I. On Saturdays till 8 P.M. Free.
tle of Dettingen, which he commanded un- Bui-ns's Monument, with Bust and Relics
der George II. A remarkable instance of of the Poet— Daily, from 10 to 7 Winter, ;
vised and directed the massacre of their National Gallery— Open daily from 10
ancestors." to 5, free. On Thursdays and Fridays,
A short distance from Newliston is the from 10 to 4, 6d. Saturday evening, 7 to
Tillage of Kirkliston, where there is a fine 9, free.
yld Romanesque church, the burial-]dacc Kelson's Monument, from the top of which
of the Earl of Stair. Passing Ratho Junc- —
there is a magnificent view Daily, 8 A.^f.
tion, where there is a bi'anch railway which ! till dusk, 3(7.
uated on two ridges of hills within two in 1514, and was formerly one of the most
miles of the Firth of Forth, and contains admired relics in the Tower of London.
228,19!' inhabitants; and with its port or It was restored to this castle in 1829 by
suburb, Leith, 210,777, The population George IV., after remaining in the Tower
just one hundred years ago (1775), includ- a century and a half. The public build-
ing Leith, was only 57,195. The princi- ings are very chaste in their design, and
pal hotel, and one of the most popular in the general architecture of the city impos-
Scotland, is the Royal, beautifully situated ing and picturesque. Edinburgh is said
on Princes Street, opposite the Walter to resemble Athens, and, in fact, has been
Scott monument Donald Macgregor, pro-
; termed by many writers the " Modern
prietor. The best cuisine and best service Athens." The principal street of Edin-
in the city. burgh is Princes Street : here most of the
Edinburgh, for its size, is one of the most hotels are located, and also the elegant
imposing, intei-csting, and magnificent cit- monument to Sir Walter Scott, designed
ies in Europe. Through its centre a deep, by George M. Kemp, who died before hav-
wild, and rocky ravine extends, dividing ing completed the structure. It is 200 feet
the city into the old and new town. This high, and has 287 steps leading to the top of
ravine, which was once the great deformity the gallery. The statues in the niches are
of the city, has been converted into beauti- taken from the different works of the great
ful gardens, and is crossed at two different writer statue of Prince Charles (from
:
places by a spacious bridge and an earthen Waverley) Meg Merrilies (from Guy Man-
;
mound. On the summit of a ti*emendous nering), representing her breaking the sap-
152
J ED N <^
I
b' U R G
^
Edinburgh. [SCOTLAND.] Edinburgh.
A large marble statue of Sir Walter, and Kunic inscription: "Jri rasti stain nftir
at his side his pet dog Bevis, is placed un- Jlialm Fadur sir; Guth hiidbi ant flans.''''
der the canopy of the monument. Under The translation of which is, "Ari erected
the foundation stone is located a plate this stone for Hialm, his father: God help
l)earing the following inscription by Lord his soul."
Jeffrey The Register House, used as a depos-
itory for public records, at the east end of
'^This graven plate,
deposited in the base of a votive buildiiii^
Princes Street, forms a square of 200 feet,
on the fifteenth day of Aupiisr, in the year uf and contains 100 apartments, where the
Christ 1S40, public business is transacted, and is sur-
and never likely to j^ee the light again
till all the surrounding structures are crumbled
mounted by a dome 200 feet in height. In
to dust front of the building is an equestrian statue
by the decay of time, or by human or elemental of the Duke of Wellington, by John Steele,
violence, The offices of the Inland Revenue
K.S.A.
may then testify to a distant posterity that
his countrymen began on tliat day are located on Waterloo Place. The build-
to raise an etfigy and architectural monument ings on this street are much admired the:
to the memory of Sir Walter Sc )tt, Bart., style of architecture light, chaste, and at-
whose admirable writings were theu allowe I
tractive.
to have given more delight and suggested better
feeling LTpon the left of the stairway leading to
to a larger class of readers in eveiy rank of Calton Hill stands the monument erected
society
to Dugald Stewart, designed l>y Mr. Play-
than those of any other author.
with the exception of Shakspeaic aluiie ;
fair; near it is the Observatory. On the
and which were therefore thought likely to be summit of the hill Nelson's Monument is
remembered located, and from this point Burns's Monu-
long after this act of gratitude,
on the part of the first generation of his admirers, ment is visible, also the Jail, the valley
should be forgotten." at Holvrood. Arthur's Seat, Lanmiermoor,
and Pentland Hills.
The Xational Picture-gallery^ founded Near Nelson's Monument is the National
by Prince Aliiert in 1850, and completed Monument erected to the memory of the
in 18.34, is of the Greek-Ionic order, and heroes of Waterloo. It was intended as
was designed by AV. and C. Playfair. an imitation of the Parthenon, but was
The galleries entered from the east por- never finished, owing t.> a want of funds.
tico are assigned to the lioyal Scottish In Calton church -yard is a monumental
Academy's Annual Exhiliition of the works tower erected to the memory of the histo-
of living artists. Open from February to rian, David Hume.
—
Ma}' admission, one sliilling. The west St. Giles's Cathedral, named after the
gallery contains the permanent collection protecting saint of Ivlinburgli, retains much
of the Academy. nl<o a line collection of the of its ancient tiothic work, and its irregular
works of the lic.-t English, Scotch, and Eu- appearance renders it attractive, and bears
ropean artists. Admission dailv, from 10 comparison with many of the line.-t speci-
to 5. mens of this style of architecture. The
The Royal In.4Uii'io:i is situated on the first mention made of it is in 1350, by a
mound which fronts on Hanover Street. charter of David II. In 1446 it became a
It is of the Doric order, and it also was de- collegiate church, and contained forty al-
signed by Playfair. The Central School tirs. It was in this church, in 1G03, that
of the RoyaJ. Scottish Academy of Pa' nt my. James VI. delivered his farewell address
Sculpture, and Architecture is carried on previous to his departure for England, when
in this building. In the same premises about to take possession of tlie crown. Dur-
is the Statue (Jallery (which contains a ing the Reformation it was made to accom-
valuable collection of casts from the an- modate four places of worship. Part of it
tique) and the Antiquarian Museum. To was used as a ]>rison, part for the police
Vol. L— G 2 153
Edixburgh. [SCOTLAND.] Edinburgh,
court, part for the chambers of the town ment House, where the meetings
I
of the
clerk. The partat the south end of the Supreme Court occur, has been recently
transept, used as the " Old Kirk," was the renovated the great hall, with its finely
;
scene of a most amusing incident in 1637, arched roof of carved oak, serves as a prom-
which gave much popularity to the second enade for the members of the court when
Reformation. A
rather choleric " green- not engaged in carrying on their cases.
wife," Jenny Geddes, had brought her stool At the north end of the hall is a statue of
with her to church on the memorable day Duncan Forbes, of Culloden, by Rouhiliac.
on which the obnoxious Liturgy of Laud was It has the following inscription on the ped-
to be introduced into Scotland b}' author- estal " Duncano Forbes, de Culloden, su-
:
ity. The Bishop of Edinburgh had just premte in civilibus curia: praesidi judici in-
asked the dean to read " the Collect for tegerrimo civi optimo priscae virtutis viro
the day," when Jenny exclaimed, " Colic, facultas juridica libens possint anno post
said? the de'il colic the wame o' ye; wud obitum quinto."' The Adcocaies" Library
ye say mass at ray lug?" and she lifted up is rich in printed volumes, amounting to
her stool and sent it flying at the dean's 150,000 ; also a valuable collection of Scot-
head. The stool is now preserved in the tish poetr}', 400 volumes and 1700 MSS. :
Antiquarian !}.Iu5eum, and Dr. M'Crie says This one of the five libraries that are
is
it was well for the de.\n that he had learn- entitled to a cop}^ of every new work that
ed to "jouk," or the consequences might is published in Great Britain. The office
have been serious. of librarian has always been filled by dis-
The University ofEdinburgh, founded by tinguished men and able scholars, and the
James VL, is a hne educational establish- custom is still continued, the office being
ment, having a library containing 130,000 now filled by a person experienced as a
volumes, and a museum rich in objects of liniruist and otherwise very talented. One
natural history. The Rayal College of Sur- of the finest ornaments of the city is Vic-
geons, a handsome Grecian edifice, and the toria Hall, with its noble spire, which rises
new Medical School, should be visited. to the lieight of "241 feet. On the north of
The museum is in front of the building Lawnmarket is Lady Stairs' Close, the al-
visitors are admitted by an order from a ley in which is Walter
laid the scene of Sir
Fellow by application at the door. The Scott's romance, " My Aunt ^largaret's
Barclay and Bell collections are well worth Mirror." Over the door, which figures
a visit. One of the most attractive feat- conspicuously in the story, is a coat of
ures of the city is the George IV. Bridge; arms, and the legend " Fear the Lord and
and the Grayfriars' church-yard, formerly depart from evil.''
the .garden belonging to the monaster}' of The next most important memorial of
the Grayfriars, and now used as a ceme- Scotland's ancient splendor is the remains
tery, is interesting from the fact of many of the palace of Hulyrood. It was a mag-
of Scotland's most distinguished men be- nificent building in former days. Both
ing interred there. The largest square in palace and abbey are open to the public
the old town is George's, where were locat- every day except Sunday on Saturday, :
ed the principal residences of the nobility. ; free other days by ticket price six- —
St. Andrew's Square is the principal busi- pence. This palace is the ancient resi-
ness portion of the city ui the centre is
: dence of Scottish royalty, and owes its
the Melville Monument. On the north- foundation to the miraculous deliverance
west corner is located the house where Lord of David I., who, while hunting in an ad-
Brougham was born, and on the southwest joining forest, was attacked by an infuri-
corner the residence of David Hume. ated stag, when suddenly a fier^' cross ap-
In the centre of Parliament Square stands peared in the sky which frightened the an-
the equestrian statue of Charles II, consid- imal the king then founded the abbey to
, ;
ered a fine piece of statuary. Here may be commemorate his deliverance in the year
seen a slab let into the pavement with the 1128. The most interesting rooms in the
letters J. K, This is the burial-place of palace are those last occupied by the un-
John Knox, the great Reformer, The place fortunate Mary her bedchamber remains ;
is considered a part of the cemetery of St. in the same state as when she left it and ;
Giles's Church, which stands near. Parlia- the cabinet where her secretary and favor-
154
Edinburgh, . [SCOTLAND.] Edikburgh.
where once stood the altar before which scription, '' Lvfe GodabvfaU, and ye nycht-
'
the beautiful Mary and the next nearest hour as yiselfy He died here November
heir to the English crown, Henry Darn- 24, 1572, in the sixtj'-seventh year of his
ley, were united. In the picture-gallery age.
are some frightfully executed portraits of St. Mary's Cathedral, designed by Sir
over one hundred of Scotland's kings, evi- Gilbert Scott, is also worth a visit.
dentl}' painted by the same hand, and from One of the sights of Edinburgh is Hal-
imagination. In this hall Prince Charles kerston's Wynd, the house of Allan Ram-
held his levees and balls while his arnn' say, the bookseller and poet.
was encamped at Arthur's Seat, Lord Canongate Tolhooth and Court Ilo'se,
Darnley's rooms, with a portrait, are shown with its projecting clock over the entrance,
on the same floor. is a fine specimen of the Scottish architect-
Holyrood CJiapel is all that remains of ure of the 16th century. It was built in
Holyrood Abbey, or Abbey of the Holy 1591. Over the entrance are the arms of
Cross. Its style is an elegant illustra- the once independent burg of Canongate,
tion of the transition of the Norman into with the motto, " Sic itur ad astra.'' Not
the Gothic architecture. It has been the very appropriate to a place of confinement.
scene of many interesting historical events. At the east end of the building notice an
Charles I. was here crowned king of Scot- old stone pillar to which scolds and slan-
land, James II., James III., and Queen derers were fastened by an iron collar.
Mary and Darnley were man-ied at its al- Canongate Church was erected in 1688 ;
tar. The last time mass was said at its it stands at the east of the jail and back
land's kings, who were buried within the i l)er were Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart,
church, were desecrated by the mob in Dr. Adam Ferguson, David x\.llen, and the
1688 and it is now extremely difficult to
; poet Robert Ferguson. This latter died
know for a certainty whose bones are there I
at the early age of twenty-three. When
and whose are not of those who were in- Burns visited Edinburgh in 1786, his first
terred within its hoh' precincts. Rizzio, by visit was to the grave of his elder broth-
'
'
the command of the queen, was first inter- er in the Muses ;" he was affected even to
red in the royal vault, but was afterward tears, and from the first money he received
removed to another part of the chapel. from the publication of his poems he erect-
The Palace Stables have been handsome- ed a monument to the memorj' of his broth-
ly restored, and in front a very beautiful er poet. On its face he had engraved the
fountain has been erected. On its site following touching inscription
formerl}^ stood a statue of the queen, erect- '' Nq sculptured marble liero No pompous lay
! I
While some repairs v\ere being made here ty feet high, surmounted by a unicorn. It
in 1789, a most exquisite inlaid dagger was formerly stood upon an octagon base, fif-
found sticking in the roof. teen feet high and sixteen in diameter,
155
Edinburgh. [SCOTLAND.] Edinburgh.
from which in olden times the royal edicts in the arts and manufactures, showing
were read. It was removed in 175G to the their progress from the earliest ages. The
estate of Lord Somerville at Drum, and specimens of raw material are exceedingU'
erected on his lawn, the tovra council hav- interesting. The ground-floor is principal-
ing tnought it encumbered the street,which ly occupied by the materials used for the
was a mere pretext. construction of houses.
Sir Walter Scott indignantly spoke of its The Geological collection is large, and
ramoval embraces that made by the celebrated
"Dun-Edin's Croes, a pillar'd stone,
Hugh Miller.
Kose on a turret octagon The School of A rts, founded in 1821, is
(But now is razed that monument one of the best institutions in the king-
Whence roj-al edict rang, dom. It stands immediately opposite the
And voice of t^cotland's law was sent
In glorious trumpet clang). Museum of Science and Art.
O be his tomb as lead to lead
I Grayfriars' Church and Church-yard. Old
Upon its dull destroyer's head Grayfriars' Church was erected in 1612;
A minstrel's malison is said."
but in 1718, being used at the time as the
It is erected nearly on the same spot town powder-magazine, it was blown up.
within the railings of St. Giles's Church, It was here that the National Covenant
and Sir Walter's sph-it is appeased. The was first signed in 1638. The cliurch has
city is indebted to David Laing, LL.D., since been restored. The interest is, how-
and James Drummoud, R.S.A., for its res- ever, centred in the church-yard, where the
toration. dust of the different leaders of separate
The Xew Post-office, at the east end of factions rests forever. Here also lie the
Princes Street, should be visited. It is remains of Allan Ramsay, the Scottish
a very handsome building, in the modern poet, George Buchanan, the Latin poet,
Italian style. The corner-stone was laid Robertson, the historian. Dr. Black, the
by the Prince Consort, October 23, 1861 great chemist and philosopher, and others.
and the work, which was designed by Rob- The most interesting monument in the
ert Matheson, has been admirably carried church-yard is the ^lartyrs' Monument,
out. The Register office is immediately op- which contains the following inscription
posite. "From May most noble
27, 1661, that the
On North College Street stands the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to the
Museum of Science and Art, a handsome 17th of Februan-, 1688, that Mr. James
building, erected at the expense of the gov- Renwick suflfered, were one way or other
ernment from designs of Captain Fowke, murdered and destroyed for the same cause
R.E. The comer- stone of the building about eighteen thousand, of whom were
was laid by the Prince Consort in 1861 executed at Edinburgh about one hundred
the museum was opened under the auspices of noblemen, gentlemen, ministers, and
of the Duke of Edinburgh, May, 1866. It others, noble martyrs for Jesus Christ."
is four hundred feet long by two hundred On the north side of the same grounds
wide, and is built of stone, iron, and glass. is the monument of Sir George Mackenzie,
The architecture is of the Venetian char- the king's advocate during this time ot per-
acter, and the columns and pilasters of red secution, who secured the title of "Bloody
stone have a very pretty effect on the white Mackenzie "
from Davie Deans, who said,
surface. " He will be kenned by the name of Bloody
The Natural History collection is sit- Mackenzie so long as there's a Scot's
uated in the east wing. There is suspend- tongue to speak the word." Not long
ed from the ceiling of the gallery probably since it used to be the test of a boy's cour-
ihc largest skeleton of a whale that has age to cry after nightfall in the keyhole
ever been preserved. Its length is nearly of the tomb
eighty feet. The whale was found float-
"Bluidy Mackenzie, come oot if ye daur;
ing at the mouth of the Firth, in 1829, by Lift the sneck, and draw the bar."
some fishermen from Dunbar. The speci-
mens of birds amount to ten thousand. But they never waited to see if Mackenzie
The galleries contain well - arranged responded to their threat.
specimens of the principal materials used A few minutes' walk from Gravfriars,
156
Edinburgh. [SCOTLAND.] Leith.
and the gate of HerioVs ITospital is reach- the other resembling some time-worn
[
tion ;
in the city; it was finished in 1G(J0, and observed as the slender rill which escapes
owes its existence to Gt-orf^e H'.'rlot, jew- unheard and scarce seen from the fountain
eler to James VI. Its oliject is the main- of his patron saint. The city resembles
tenance and education of fatherless boys, the busy temple where the modern Comus
or bo3'S whose parents are in indigent cir- and IMammon hold their court, and thou-
cumstances. The management is vested sands sacrifice ease, independence, and vir-
in the town council and clergy of the tue itself at their shrine the misty and
;
city. Orders to see it can be obtained at lonely mountain seems as a throne to the
the Secretar^^'s office, Itoyal Exchange, majestic but terrible genius of feudal times,
High Street. when the same divinities dispersed coronets
Donaldson's Hospital is a magnificent and domains to those who had heads to de-
structure, built from designs by Playfair, vise and arms to execute bold enterprises,"
and erected in the Tudor style of archi- The hill is supposed to have taken its
tecture. It is a quadrangular building, two name from the British Pnnce Arthur, who
hundred and seventy feet long on either gained a victory over tlie Saxons in the
side. It was endowed and built for the neighborhood in the sixth century.
education of two hundred poor boj'S and From this proceed to Calton Hill (already
girls by James Donaldson, an Edinburgh described), and note the contrast.
printer, who bequeathed over one million George Street will soon display a row of
of dollars for that purpose. The building very fine monuments. At the intersection
is situated in such a conspicuous position of Hanover Street there is now a statue of
that travelers can not fail to see it on ar- George IV,, and of William Pitt at Pitt
riving and departing from the city. Street, both by Chantrey in the centre of
;
The hospitals of Edinburgh are most Charlotte Square have lately been erected
numerous ;charity is one of the first and the national monument to the Prince Con-
greatest of the virtues of its citizens. sort, and one to Dr. Chalmers, both by
There are, in addition to those already' Steele, an artist who has acquired a fine
named, Stewart's Hospital, Watson's Hos- reputation.
pital, and the Orphan Hospital. Excursions in the ricinify o/ Edinburgh:
to Leith, Newh'iven, and Grcnton. Trains
One of the first things the traveler start every half-hour. There are also om-
should do on arriving at Edinburgh is to nibuses and tramway cars.
take a drive over the winding road around Leith, the sea -port of Edinburgh, and
Arthurs Seat, called the Queen's Drive. most important naval station on the east
South of Holyrood is the Queen's Park coast of Scotland, is about a mile and a
and Salisbury CraiV/5, whence a magnificent half from the centre of the city. There is
vie>v may be had. Ascending up Radical here a splendid graving dock, which cost
Road, so called from the political principles 8400,000; also a floating dock. One mile
of the workmen employed in its construc- west of Leith is the elegant Granton Pier,
tion in 1821, we arrive at Arthur's Seat, a constructed recently by the Duke of liuc-
massive mountain over eight hundred feet cleuch; also a fine harbor and breakwa-
high. It has the outline of a recumbent ter. The North British Riulway trains
lion, and is a beautiful object in the sur- here cross for Fife and the North. The
roundings of the city of Edinburgh. Sir luggage trains are run into vessels covered
AValter Scott describes it in his "Chron- with rails. Between Granton and Edin-
icles of the Canongate:" burgh is the Koj'al Botanic Garden and
" A nobler contrast there can hardly exist the Edinburgh Cemetery, which is laid out
than that of the huge city, dark with tlie wnth much taste. Near here is St. Mary's,
smoke of ages, and groaning with the vari- the neatest church in the citv.
ous sounds of active industry or idle revel, t
and the loftj' and craggy hill, silent and sol- Opposite Leith is Burntisland, where trains
itary as the grave one exhibiting the full are waiting to convey passengers on the
;
tide of existence, pressing and precipit;iting arrival of the steamer to Elie, Anstruther,
j
itself forward with the force of an inunda- St. Andrew's, and Dundee. Burntisland is a
i
157
Hawthorxden. [SCOTLAND.] Dalkeith Palace,
favorite -watering-place for the citizens of I
suits of armor. There is a tradition that
Edinburgh, and contains 3300 inhabitants. immediately preceding the death of any
Hotel, Forth. of the Lords of Roslin this chapel appeared
Perhaps the most interesting and lovely in flames this tradition is exquisitely de-
:
of all the excursions in the vicinity of Ed- scribed by Sir Walter Scott in his ballad
inburgh is that to Hmcthornden, Roslin Cas- of Rosabelle. Two miles from Roslin is
tle and Chapel and Dalkeith Palace. As the town of Dalkeith, at the extremity of
the days on Avhich each of these places is j
which is its palace, which is shown in the
open are liable to change, inform yourself absence of the family on Wednesdays and
by inquiring at your hotel what day you I
Saturdays. It is the residence of the Duke
can see them all. A carriage had better of Buccleuch, The palace is a large square
be taken from the city, although one can structure, surrounded by a magnificent park,
reach all the places h\ rail. The train : through Avhich the North and South Esk
might be taken from Waverley Bridge to flow, uniting close to the mansion. The
Hawthornden station, and return from Eos- property belonged to the Graham family
lin by the Edinburgh and Roslin coach. until the 14th century, but was granted to
Dalkeith Palace, the farthest point, is only Sir William Douglas in 1369, on the pay-
nine miles from the city. ment of a pair of white gloves or a silver
Hawthornden -was the lovely residence penny to the king on the Feast of Pente-
of the poet Drummond, the intimate friend cost. The Earl of Morton, a descendant
of Shakespeare and Jonson, and is now in- of Sir William Douglas, in the reiirn of
habited by his lineal descendant. It is Queen Mary made this stronghold his
considered by all •\\Titers one of the most head -quarters. At this time, owing to
lovely spots in Scotland it is situated on
;
its strength, acquired the name of the
it
such a manner that he had no hope to rival Erlinhtrgh to Beruick, Melrose, Ah-
i-ia
it, when he immediately struck him a death- hotsford, Dryhiirgh, Kelso, and Coldstream.
blow with a hammer. The Barons of Ros- iVIelrose Abbev, Abbotsford (former res-
lin, up to the time of James VI., were all idence of Sir Walter Scott), and the Abbey
interred beneath the chapel in complete I
of Dryburgh (Sir Walter's burial - place),
158
Melrose. [SCOTLAND.] Melrose Abbey.
are generally visited from Edinburgh, as many of the best architects of the world
they can all be seen comfortably in one have received their inspirations. The Al>
day. bey was founded In' David L in 1136, but
This is considered one of the most in-
teresting excursions in Scotland. Ormight
it was not completed until ten years later,
be l)etter to take these places on your way when it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
to London, should you first have visited The first monlis who settled here belonged
Glasgow, Ayr, etc. Or, should you be to the Cistercian order, and were given to
comin.!^ to Edinburgh, first stop one night pastoral and agricultural pursuits. Their
at Melrose, sending your baggage on to the life was simple and frugal, but in course of
capital, to the Hotel Royal. You will find time they must have degenerated, as an old
accommodations at the George Ho- song says
first-rate
which is conducted by Mr. Menzies
tel,
''The monks of Melro?e made fat kail
pay no attention to railway officials, who On Fridays when they fasted
are paid for endeavoring to make you And wanted neither beef nor ale
As land's their neebours lasted."
change your plans he keeps conveyances
:
for making the excursions to Abbotsford The Abbey is now all in ruins, with the ex-
and Dryburgh at fixed prices. The day ception of the church, yet its ornaments
before you arrive drop him a line, and he and edges are as sharp and fine as when
will have conveyances at the station to newly cut. The church is in the form of
meet you. a Latin cross, with a central tower eighty-
Leave Edinburgh by the 10.15 train. four feet high, the choir and transept be-
Time to Melrose, 1 hr. 10 min. ing the best preserved. The principal en-
Three miles from Edinburgh Portobello trance is by a beautiful Gothic door in the
is passed, then CHchton Castle on the east south transept, over which is an exquisite
and Borthwick Castle on the west. Queen window twenty-four feet in height and six-
Mary retreated to the latter a few weeks teen in breadth, the stone-work being per-
after her marriage with Both well. Pass- fect. Over this window are niches which
ing Galashiels, which is an industrious formerly contained figures of the Saviour
town, and the principal seat of tweed-cloth and Apostles, and beneath the window an
manufacture in Scotland-, we arrive at image of John the Bapti^-t looking upward.
Melrose, a small town containing 1150 in- The buttresses and pinnacles contain
habitants. Principal hotel, The George, ad- forms of musicians and plants sculptured in
mirably conducted by Mr. Menzies, who a most exquisite manner. In the southern
will supply you with carriage and horses. wall are eight beautiful windows sixteen
Notice the Cross which stands in the Mar- feet high, the tracery of which is of the
Ket-place, with the royal arms of Scotland most elegant and beautiful description but ;
on the top. Order a carriage for Abbots- the grandest object is the great east win-
ford and Dryburgh, and while it is getting dow, thirty -seven feet high and sixteen
ready visit the ruins of Melrose Abbey. feet broad, with beautiful light tracery and
The usual tariff to Abbotsford and back tall, slender shafts, only eight inches thick,
is Is. (id. To Dryburgh and back, via of which Sir Walter Scott says
Bemerside Hill, IO5. 6^/., and sixpence a
''Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand
mile for the driver. Abbotsford lying to 'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand
the east and Dryburgh to the west of Mel- In many a freakish knot had twined
rose, the visitor has to retrace his steps.
Then framed a spell when tlie work was done.
And changed the willow-wreaths to stone."
There are numerous handsome and in-
teresting drives which can be made from Notice the roof of the high altar it is re- —
Melrose if tlie traveler have time. From markably beantiful. In the centre is a
;
Melrose to Selkirk and Newark, returning sitting figure supporting Christ on the
\
on the south side of the Yarrow, 2(5 miles cross, with numerous other figures, while
'
159
Abbotsfohd. [SCOTLAND.] Dryburgh abbey.
over them are carved in a most exquisite shoes,and gaiters. In a niche at the up.
stj^le. per end of the room is placed the marble
Observe the floors of the choir and bust of Sir AValter taken by Chantrey in
chancel here lie the remains of many a
: 1820. The study, which contains a few
gallant knight. At the high altar Alex- volumes of reference, remains nearly as
ander II. was buried. On its south side is ! the poet left it. Abbotsford is closed to
the grave of St. Waldevus, also James, sec- j
visitorsduring the winter months. During
ond Earl of Douglas, who fell at Ofterburn, the remainder of the j-ear they are admitted
and William Douglas, "The Dark Knight daily from 12 A.M. to 6 P.M"^, except Sun-
of Liddesdale." The heart of Kobert the days, There is no fixed charge for ad-
Bruce is said to have been interred liere, mission to the house, but a shilling for a
when his friend Douglas had made an in- single individual, and two and sixpence for
effectual attempt to carry it to the Holj- a party, is about the usual fee.
Land. }
Darnick Tower, on the wa}' to ^lelrose,
A flat, mossy stone is pointed out as the should be visited there is a curious mu-
:
grave of the famous wizard Michael Scott, seum of relics of border 1: >tory.
whose magic books were buried with him, ,
Dryhurgh A hbey is one of the most pict-
and whose funeral is described by the monk uresque ruins in Scotland it Avas founded
:
:"
in the '• Lay of the Last Minstrel j
by Hugh de INIorville. Constable of Scot-
"I buried him on St. Micliael's niirh", I
land, during the reign of David I., 1150.
Wlien the bell tolled one, uu 1 the moon w:i3
I
The resident monks were Prcmonstraten-
bright sians from Alnwick. It was burned by the
And I dug his chamber amoajj the dead
Where the floor of the chancjl was stained
English in 1322, and again in 1545. James
witli red, Stuart, of the Darnley famil}' was its last
I
be admired, but the name of the genius mer proprietors on the mother's side. Sir
that once inhabited it is fresh in the mem- Walter Scott was buried here, at his par-
ory of every individual who spaaks the ticular request, on the 26th of September,
English language, and must remain so for 1832. His wife's tomb is on his left, but
ages, Abbotsford is now the property of they are both covered by one massive slab
Mr. Hope Scott, who married Sir Walter's of granite, shaped so as to seem two al-
granddaughter. Ths principal apartments tar tombs. The simple inscription on the
in the house are the armory, hung with tombstone of the poet is in these words
nearly every kind of weapon. The draw- '• i^ir
Walter Scott, Baronet.
ing-room is a spacious apartment, rich- Died :jeptember 21, A.D. 1S32."
ly furnished in cedar and carved ebony His eldest son. Colonel Sir Walter Scott, lies
most of the contents were presented by on his right, while at his feet lie the remains
George IV. to the poet. The dining-room of Mr, Lockhart, his son-in-law, friend, and
contains many handsome portraits and biographer. The nave of the church, which
pictures, one of which is the head of Mary was 190 feet long, must have been very
Queen of Scots on a charger Cromwell, ; beautiful. Nearly every spot of the church,
Charles II., etc. The library contains a with the exception of St, Mary's Aisle, is
choice collection of 20.000 volumes. In a covered with living green. An open rail-
small closet off the study is a case con- ing in front protects the monuments, at the
taining the last clothes Sir Walter wore same time giving every facility to inspect
white hat, plaid pantaloons, striped vest, them. Of the Monastery the chapter-house
160
Jedburgh. [SCOTLAND.] Floors C^vstle.
alone remains intact, although of greater was repeatedly burned and pillaged by the
I
antiquity than the church. 1 English. The old castle stood on the site
Among tlie places shown to visitors is a of the present jail, and was surrendered to
cell devoted to torture. A hole is cut in the England at one time as security for the
stone wall into this the prisoner's hand
: ransom of William the Lion. It was also
was wedged with wood, tlie hole being a favorite residence of tlie Scottish mon-
so placed that the victim could neither archs from David I. to Alexander III.
stand nor sit, but must remain on his In the lower part of the town the old
knees. In another of the cells Sir Walter mansion is still shown where Queen Mary
Scott tells us the Nun of Dryburgh took up lay sick for several weeks, her life being
her abode, never quitting it until nightfall, despaired of. She had come to Jedburgh
when she went in search of food, having to hold the assizes, and having heard that
made a vow that she would never look Botliwell had been wounded in an encount-
upon the sun again until her lover's re- er with a notorious freebooter, named John
turn. She kept her word but he never
; Elliot, and was lying ill at Hermitage Cas-
returned, having fallen in the war of 1745. tle, a distance of twenty miles, she rode
The court-yard, with the tree in the centre, there and back the same da}-, forty miles,
reminds one much of Muckross Abbey. No- and was in consequence thrown into a vio-
tice opposite the entrance an old yew-^ree, lent fever.
planted the same time the Abbey was built. The Abbey is the principal object of at-
At the time of the dissolution of the re- traction it was founded In' David I., and
:
ligious houses the Diyburgh estates were were at one time very powerful.
its al)bots
granted to the Earl of Mar, from whose It sufferedmuch during the English wars,
descendants it was purchased by the Earl when Scotland was invaded by Edward I.
of Buchan. The ruins now stand in the and III. At the time of the Reformation
grounds of Dryburgh House, the property !
the lands were bestowed upon Sir Andrew
of the Hon. Mr. Erskine. For admission Kerr, with the title of Lord Jedburgh, and
apply at the lodge. The charge for show- they are now in the possession of a de-
ing the ruins is one shilling for a party scendant, the Marquis of Lothian. The
of three or under ; over that, sixpence north transept, which is entire, is appro-
each. The ruins of the house where Ralph priated as a burial-place for that noble-
and Ebenezer Erskine, fatliers of the Se- \
man's family.
cession Church, passed their boyhood, are An excursion should be made up the Jed
also shown inside the grounds. River a short distance, if staying a da}- at
On an adjoining hill may be seen the Jedburgh. Near by are Bon jed ward and
colossal statue of Sir William Wallace, Mount Teviot, seats of the Marquis of
twenty -two feet high, erected by the late Lothian, and Hartrigge, the mansion of
Earl of Buchan. There is also a handsome Lord Chancellor Campbell also Ferni-
;
suspension bridge across the river, con- hurst, formerly a strong fortress, now a
structed by the same nobleman. From farm-house.
the ferry it is three miles to SeMrk, a Returning to Roxburgh Junction, a short
dull town with little to see. There is a distance from Kelso (ten minutes) notice
statue of Sir Walter Scott, and one of on the loft Floors Castle, the seat of the
Mungo Park, who was a native of the shire. Duke of Roxburgh. Admission only on
From ]Melrose to Roxburgh Junction Wednesdays. Permits given at Kelso at
time, 25 minutes. Here there is a branch the Branch Bank of Scotland. The castle
road to Jedburgh in 25 minutes. iscomparatively modern, dating from 171S,
Jedburgh is the county town of Roxburgh- and is very beautiful. A holly- bush in
sliire. Hotels, Harrow and Spread Eagle. the park marks the spot where James II.
The town contains o700 inhabitants. It was killed while besieging ^o.rjMr«7A Castle.
is situated on the River Jed, and has the This last is situated on the other side of
appearance, as it is, of a place of great an- the Tweed, one mile and a quarter from
tiquity. It was at one time of much im- Kelso. There is very little of its ruins
portance, and defended by a castle of great now to be seen, although at one time it was
strength, with many towers. It was often a fortress of considerable extent and im-
the rendezvous of the Scottish armies, and portance.
161
Kelso. [SCOTLAND.] Coldstream,
Kelso. Hotels, Cross Keys and Queens ant, the Duke of Roxburgh, still holds
Head. Population 4700. This town is possession.
beautifully situated on the banks of tlie A visit should be paid to the Museum,
which is open on Mondays, Wednesdays,
Tweed, and comprises four principal streets,
and Fridays.
with a large square, or market-place, in the
centre. The Town Hall occupies a place in A short distance below the town is Rose^
the square it was erected in 1816, and has bank, a small house on the banks of the
;
a tower from whence bells ring the chimes Tweed, where Sir Walter Scott used to live
and the curfew. The houses are all well when a boy, and at Kelso his first produc-
built, and the residents seem happy and tions were printed. He evidently under-
comfortable. The environs are most beau- stood the people here well, as he says of
tiful, and have been the subject of numer- their religious feelings
ous poets' praise
'' The Kelso men slank all away
"Bosom'd in woods wheve mighty rivers run, They liked not mucli to hymn nor pray;
Kelso's fair vale expauds before the sun; Nor like they 't much unto this day."
Its rising downs iu vernal beauty swell,
And fringed with hazel winds each flowery dell. The Tweed is by a hand-
here crossed
Green spangled plains to dimpled lawns succeed, som-e bridge, to Ednam House.
which leads
And T( rape rises on the banks of Tweed.
Blue o'er the river Kelso's shadow lies, From Kelso to Berwick, 1 hr. 45 min.
And copse-clad isles amid the waters rise.'' Passing Warh [where is situated Wark
Castle, celebrated in border history as one
The ruins of the Ahhey are among the of the strongest of the frontier fortress-
most magnificent in Scotland, and the es. It was defended b}' the Countess of
church is an elegant specimen of the Ro- Salisbury against David II., who had laid
manesque style, verging into the Pointed. siege to it, which he was compelled to raise,
The Abbey was founded by David I. in Edward III., arriving soon after, fell in
1128 but it was nearly half a centur}^ be-
;
love with the castle's beautiful defender.
fore it was finished. King David's eldest It is now the property of Lady Waterford.
son, Henry, Earl of Northumberland, was Wark Church is deserving a visit], we ar-
buried here in 1162. rive at Coldstream (one mile from the sta-
The monks were of the Order of the tion). Hotel, Newcastle Arms. Popula-
Benedictines, who, being first established tion 2450. It was in this town that Gen-
in France, at Tiron, were called Tironenses. eral Monk
raised a regiment in 1660 to as-
They were first settled at Selkirk, near sist at the restoration of Charles II. It
King David's palace, but when he became was named the Coldstream Guards, and has
king by the death of his brother he re- ever since retained that denomination. It
moved the convent to Kelso, that being isone of the most celebrated regiments in
nearest the royal palace, or castle, of Rox- the British Arm}-.
burgh. Kelso suffered greatly during the In consequence of its proximity to En-
wars between England and Scotland on gland, Coldstream has, like Gretna Green,
account of its contiguity to the English been celebrated for the runaway matches
frontier. It was several times destroyed and irregular marriages that have taken
b}' fire, and again restored but it owes
; place there. Several Lord Chancellors of
its present reduced condition to the Earl England were married here, Lord Brough-
of Hertford, who laid it waste by fire in am among the nimiber.
1545. Near Coldstream is the ford of the Tweed
After the Reformation it was for a while where the English and Scotch armies cross-
used as a kirk, and patched up with vulgar ed when making their inroads into each
masonrs' and Avhitewash but during the
; other's countr}'. The river is now crossed
present century this has all been removed, by a fine bridge erected in 1766.
and it has been much strengthened in good Four miles from Coldstream is Swinton
taste by its present owner. The Earl of j
House, the seat of the Swinton family, re-
Pothwell having been attainted for high- nowned in Scotch histor3^ The estate,
treason in 1592, the estates, which in- j
with the exception of two short periods,
elude Kelso Abbey, were conferred on Sir has remained in the same family since the
j
Bemoick- on -Tweed. Hotel, Red Lion. site of the former magnificent palace of the
(See p. 16G.) Setons, for many centuries Earls of Win-
toun or Lords of Seton. The fifth Lord Se-
ton was a great friend and warm adherent
of Mary Queen of Scots, who wished to pro-
mote him to an earldom, which he declined.
The last earl was attainted on account
of the rebellion of 1715, when every thing
he possessed was sold and later the famous
;
and. within sight, Coalstoun House, the seat the court-yard of this castle
of the Earl of Dalhousie. ''
Knox. j
To heard the lion in his den ? a Douglas ia his
hall ?
Five miles south of Gifford is Tester And hop'st thou then unscathed to go ?
j
The old castle stands on a small peninsula, Up, warders, ho let the portcullis fall.'
!
stream, whose bed is above the level of the On prcjecting rock they rose.
.1
The floor to pave, the aich to round, Aiound were lodgings fit and fair
There never toiled a mortal arm — An 1 to>\crs of vaiious fonn,
It all was wrought by Avord and charm." "Which on the court projected far
Marvdon. And broke its lines quadrangular.
Here was square keep, there tun-et high,
Or pinnacle that sought the sky,
Drera Junction. A branch railway, five AVlience oft the Avarder could de.=cry
miles long, leads to North Berwich. Hotel, The gathering ocean stoim."
Royal. This town is finely situated on the
Firth of Forth, and is a favorite resort dur- The piers of the old drawbridge are still
ing the summer for bathing, on account of to be seen, but the principal entrance has
its fine beach. The principal occupation been broken up, and the northern walls
of the inhabitants is herring-fishing. About appear as if they would soon tumble down.
three miles south of the town rises the con- After Douglas, Earl of Angus, was ban-
ical hill called Xorth Beruick Law. It is ished in 1526, the castle held out against
about 600 feet high, from the summit of James V. The castle was eventually de-
which there is a magnificent view stroyed by General Monk. At the com-
mencement of the 18th century' the Duke
''•
And now whr n close at hand she saw
of Douglas sold the estate to Sir Hugh Dal-
>ior:h BerTsrick's tower and lofty Law."
rymple, in whose descendants' possession it
An excursion should be made to Bass still remains.
Bock, two miles from the shore (if the Returning to Drem Junction, Ave pass
''
weather is pleasant). This most singular the ruins of Dirleton Castle, near which is
rock rises 400 feet out of the water. It is ,
Athelstane, Avhere Home, the author of
remarkable for the immense quantity of " Douglas,'' was minister, and Avhence he
sea-fowl which inhabit it, especially solan was expelled for writing that work. Some
geese, v.hich are shot for their feathers. distance to the right is Ilailes Castle, where
There was formerly a castle on the rock, Queen iNIarv spent a portion of her honey-
where prisoners Avere confined during the ;
moon witii Bothwell.
wars with England. Boats niaj- be hired Linton Station, near which is Tipnng-
at Canty Bay, one and a half miles from ham House, the seat of the Earl of Hadding-
Berwick. Fare, six shillings for a party. ton ; and five miles beyond is Belhaven,
The object of coming to Xorth Berwick from Avhich Lord Belhaven takes his title
is mostly to visit the ruins f the famous
( thence to
Castle of Tantallon, the stronghold of the Dunbar. Hotel, aS'^. George, near the sta-
Douglas family. tion. Population 3050. This town was
j
Every reader of Scott's "Marmion" created a royal burgh by David II., on ac-
must remember the celebrated parting in- i count of the celebrated defense made by
164
Castle of Dunbar. [SCOTLAND.] Fast Castle.
its castle the command of
when under ' to Melrose, Earlston, anu Newton St. Bos-
Black Agnes, Countess of jMarch, against well.
an Knglish army under the Earl of Salis- j
Three and a half miles in the direction
bury. The siege lasted six weeks, when I
of Dunse is Coldinfjham, so remarkable for
the English were compelled to abandon [
the ruins of its priory, celebrated in border
the attempt to take the castle. history. It is said to have been estab-
The Castle of Dunbar is of great antiq- lished by St. Abb at the commencement
uity. It was bestowed as early as 1072 !
of the seventh centur}'. St. Abb was a
on Patrick, Earl of Northumberland, by nun, Ebba, who fled from the Prince of
Malcolm Canmore, and remained in pos- Northumbria, who wished to marrj^ her:
session of that family until 1-134. Edward having been miraculously saved by the
I
II. fled hither after his defeat at Bannock- rising of the tide, she founded a nunnery,
burn. In 1567 Queen Mary gave the and became its first abbess. In the ninth
keeping of this important fortress to Both- century the nunnery was attacked by the
well, and here she twice sought refuge, Danes, and the nuns, to save themselves
once after the murder of Eizzio, and again j
from violation, cut oft' their noses and lips,
after her escape from Borthwick Castle, when the Danes, in revenge, burned the
whence as a page she accompanied Both-
I
battleswere fought, in both of which the On those the wall was to inclose
Alive within the tomb."
Scots were defeated ; viz., in 129G, when
Edward defeated Baliol, and on the 3d of
I. About two miles northeast from Cold-
September, 1G51, when Cromwell defeated ingham is the celebrated promontory call-
General David Leslie, on which occasion ed St. Abb's Head, one side of which is oc-
ten thousand prisoners were taken by the cupied as a light-house on the other are
;
which Cromwell used as his head-quarters been contending with flitting clouds, now
;
before the battle of Dunbar. shone out, and gave them a view of the
I
stands Dunr/las House, built on the site of projecting clifl'that beetled on the German
an old castle which was originally the Ocean. On three sides the rock was pre-
,
stronghold of the Earls of Home, and still cipitous on the fourth, which was that
:
gives one of its titles to that f^imih*. It toward the land, it had been originally
was destroyed in IGIO by the explosion of fenced by an artificial ditch and draw-
the powder magazine, on which occasion bridge, but the latter was broken down
the Earl of Haddington and numerous per- and ruinous, and the former had been in
sons of distinction were killed. part filled up, so as to allow^ passage for a
five miles farther is lieston Junction, horseman into the narrow court-yard, en-
M'hcucc there is a direct road via Dunse circled on two sides with low offices and
I
IGa
Berwick-ox-Tweed. [SCOTLAND.] Mauchline.
sombrous and heavy sound of the billows, London, 342 miles. Time, 8 and 9 hours
Buccessively dashing against the rocky fare, first class, £3 = 815.
beach, at a profound distance, was to the
ear what the landscape was to the eye —
symbol of unvaried and monotonous mel-
ancholy, not unmingled with horror."
This castle was at one time the strong-
hold of the Home family; afterward it
came into the possession of Logan of Restal-
rig, who was implicated in the Gowrie con-
spiracy. After his death, his body was ex-
humed and tried for high-treason, and found ROUTE No. 62.
guilty, when all his possessions were for- Glasgow to Carlisle, via Kilmarnoclc and
feited. Dumfries. Distance, 125 miles fare, 135.
;
Seven miles farther the ruins of Lam- 3c?. =:$3 31 ; time, 5 hrs. 30 min.
berton Kirk are passed. It was here, in To Dairy Junction. See Route No. 44.
1503, that the marriage by proxy between The first place of importance is
James IV. and Margaret, daughter of Hen- Kilmarnock. Hotel, George. Popula-
Ty VII., took place, which was the origin tion 23,000. This is one of the principal
of the union of the two kingdoms. The towns in Ayrshire, and is noted for its
ceremony took place later at Holyrood, in manufactures of carpets, shawls, and boots
Edinburgh. and shoes. It is also noted from the fact
It was here that the toll-gate keeper I
that the first poems published by Robert
performed the marriage ceremony for run- Burns were puldished in this town, and
away couples, as at Gretna Green. here resided his warmest and dearest
Before arriving at Berwick, the railway friends. Railway to Troon, nine miles;
passes over a magnificent structure built to Ayr, fifteen miles. One mile from Kil-
over the River Tweed from the castle hill '
of William Bums, his father, he removed panion and biographer) lived here. His
with his brothel', mother, and family to father was Lord Auchinleck, a Judge of
3fossgiel, a farm that he and his brother Sessions.
Gilbert had taken, situated aljout one mile Continuing on the route to Dumfries,
north of Mauchline. Here he lived from in five minutes OH Cummick Junction is
the age of twenty-five to twenty-eight, and passed, near which is Dumfr'us House, one
here he wrote his principal poems. The of the scats of the Marquis of Bute.
farm consisted of one hundred and twelve Fifteen miles fartlier is Sanquhar, for-
acres; but Burns only nominally worked merly a place of considerable importance.
upon it. It is said in Mauchline that he In the 17th century the citizens, who were
was " fond of his toddy," and was a " wick- mostly Covenanters, renounced their alle-
ed de'il," and his reputation was getting giance to the king, declaring war against
ver}' bad ; in fact, he was on the point of him. To the south of the town may be seen
leaving the country for the West Indies, the ruins of an old castle. Two miles hence
when the hastily prepared Kilmarnock is Elliock, the liirtliplace of the " Admir-
edition of his poems commenced to attract able Crichton," so called on account of his
such attention that he was advised to go to universal accomplishments.
Edinburgh and superintend another and Passing through a tunnel over four thou-
completer edition. He did so, and burst sand feet long, and then over a magnificent
forth on the literary world a star of the viaduct, Carron Bridf/e is reached two ;
first magnitude. While in Mauchline he miles from which is Morton Castle, situ-
fell in love with Jean Armour, the daugh- ated on the margin of a deep vale. It was
ter of a stone-mason ;and after great diffi- founded at the commencement of the 11th
culty, and much opposition on the part of century by De !Morville, and was in the
her relatives, they were maiTied in the old when his property'' was
possession of Baliol
Mauchline Castle, the house where Burns's confiscated. Bruce made a grant of it to
friend Gavin Hamilton lived. The house the Regent Murray, who lived here during
up the lane, beyond the Whiteford Arms the reign of David II. It again passed
Inn, is pointed out as Mrs. Burns's resi- into the possession of the Douglas family,
dence before her marriage. The church whence they took the title of Earl of Mor-
and church-yard are the principal oljjects ton. It is now the property of the Duke
of interest in the town. The church-yard of Buccleuch.
is the scene of the " Holy Fair," and op- Three miles from Carron Bridge is Thorns
posite is the cottage of " Posie Nansie," hill Station. (Tiie town isabout a mile
where the "Jolly Beggars " held forth. from the station.) Hotel, Buccleuch Arms.
For a description of the " Braes of Bal- A rather neat little place. Thornliill Sta-
lochmyle " (distant two miles from Mauch- tion is Drumhinrig Cas-
also the station for
line), and other localities of Burns, see tle, the principal seat of the Duke of Buc-
naces here belonging to the Bairds. Three tains numerous charming walks, on one
miles from the junction, on the same road, ! of which is Tibbers Castle, reduced to ruins
is Lugar, near which, at Aird's Moss, is the
[
b}' Bruce in 1311, and supposed to be of
scene of a battle between the Royalists and 1 Roman origin.
Covenanters. An obelisk has been erected The monuments of the Queensberry fam-
to Richard Cameron, one of the leaders. : ily are contained in the church of Duris-
Three miles from tlie station is Auchin- I
deer.
lech House, the residence of the Boswell Three and a half miles from Thornhill
family. James Boswell (Johnson's com- I is Closehurn Station, near which is Closeburn
1G7
Dumfries. [SCOTLAND.] Sweetheart Abbey.
Castle, an ancient seat of the Kirkpatrick of his than by any other reason. The
life
family. The Empress Eugenie is mater- house is shown in Avhich he lived, after he
nally descended from this family. Near gave up the farm at Ellisland, for eighteen
the station is the Wallace School, one of the months, when following his avocation of
best in Scotland. exciseman it is situated at the bottom
;
Crossing the Eiver Nith at Auldgirth of Bank Street. Also the one where he
Station by a handsome bridge, we arrive at spent the last three years of his life, and
Dalstcinton, near Holyrood Station (where where he died, July 21, 1796, in Bums
once stood an abbey, founded by Devorgil- Street. His widow lived in the same dwell-
la Baliol). This was formerly the residence ing for thirty years after his death, and
of the Millers, and Patrick Miller, as early survived him thirty -eight years. The
as 1788, made the experiment of propelling house is kept as nearly as possible in the
a small steamer by steam on the adjoining same state as when occupied by the poet.
lake. The steamer is still to be seen in the The monument erected to the memory of
park. Burns is situated in the old church-yard
Three miles farther and we arrive at of St. Michael's Church. It was built by
Dumfries. Hotels, Queensherry and King's public subscription, and consists of a Gre-
Arms. This town is situated on the left cian temple, containing a sculpture by
bank of the River Nith, and contains 15,500 Turnarelli, representing the genius of Scot-
inhabitants. Its principal commerce is in land investing Burns with her inspiring
cattle and sheep, with considerable manu- mantle. Burns was originally buried at
factories of woolens and tweeds. About the northern corner of the church-yard, but
the beginning of the 12th century it be- there not being sufiicient room to erect the
came a royal burgh. Nearly a century monument there, his body was removed
later Devorgilla erected a monastery for nineteen years later to the present site of
Franciscan friars, and built a bridge across the mausoleum.
theNith forthe purpose of endowing by toll- There are several veiy interesting ex-
age the religious institution. This bridge, cursions in the vicinity of Dumfries.
which is considered the oldest in Scotland, Lincluden Abbey, situated one mile and
consisted originally of thirteen arches, only a half from Dumfries, close to Lincluden
six of which now remain. A new bridge House. The abbey was originall}' a con-
was erected in 1795, and only foot - passen- vent for Benedictine nuns, but owing to the
gers now cross the old one. On the site of immorality of its inmates it was suppressed
Grayfriars' Church formerly stood the cas- by Archibald, Earl of Bothwell, and after-
tle erected by Edward I. It was in the ward became a college. The roofless chap-
church of the monastery that Red Comyn el, which exhibits some traces of beautifully
stood when murdered by Bruce. Comyn carved work, contains a monument to Mar-
was brother-in-law of Bruce, also his rival garet, Countess of Douglas, daughter of
for the crown of Scotland; but being de- Robert III.
tected in holding treasonable correspond- Eight miles south of Dumfries is situated
ence with the English king, Bruce and Neic or Sweetheart A bbey, so called from its
some friends hurried to Dumfries to de- being the repositor}' of the heart of John
mand an explanation. The meeting took Baliol. The abbey was founded by his
place in the church before the high altar. wife Devorgilla in 1275, for the monks of
Bruce accused him of falsehood and treach- the Cistercian order. After her husband's
ery, and high words having followed, Bruce death, she carried his heart at all times in
stabbed him to the heart in a fit of passion, her bosom, and requested that it should be
and hurrying from the church met his buried with her, which was done, and she
friend, the head of the Kirkpatricks, say- was herself buried here. The tower of the
ing, "I doubt I have slain Comyn." abbey is almost perfect. The style is the
"You doubt," said Kirkpatrick; "I'll Early English, but the windows are pointed.
make sure;" and went in and finished The church was cruciform in shape; the
the bloody work. main arches are nearly all perfect.
Dumfries is better known to-day by the On the opposite or east side of the river,
English-speaking world as the place where nine miles from Dumfries, on the shore of
the poet Robert Burns spent the last years the Solway Firth, is situated Caerlaverock
ICS
Rdthwell Station. [SCOTLAND.] Carstairs Junction.
Castle^ a most interesting and picturesque gling village, with a small roadside inn of
structure. It was for a longtime the chief world-wide notoriety as a favorite temjjle
seat of the Maxwells, Eurls of Nithsdale, in of Hymen owing to the difference bet'.veen
:
whose family it still remains. It was be- the marriage laws of Scotland and England,
sioi^ed and taken in 1:500 hy Edward I. in any one could here legally perform the
]icrson, and thirteen years afterward re- marriage ceremony. A to!)acconi<t for
taken by Bruce. It was destroyed by the many years performed the rites, and on
Earl of Sussex in 1570, and restored the hundreds of occasions was closing his book
following century. Its principal feature when the sound of the swift pursuers was
is one of the round towers of the triangle, heard in the distance, just in time to be toe
called Murdoch's Tower, on account of late. Since 185G these marriages have been
Murdoch, Duke of Albany, having been suppressed br Act of Parliament.
confined in it previous to his execution at Carlisle. See "England."
Stirling.
Over the arch of the entrance gate is the
crest of the Maxwells, with the motto, '•
I
tant Runic production in Great Britain. In Edinburgh to Carlisle (direct), via Cale-
the church-yard there is a tomb to a Mr. donian liailicay. This route is not con-
Young, who lived about the middle of the sidered so interesting as the "Waverley
IGth centurj^, and died leaving thirty-one Route ' (Route No. G5, vlu Melrose, Selkirk,
—
children all by the same wife. and Hawick), there being no considerable
About one mile to the west is Comlangan place on the line, but there are many of
surrounded by an extensive forest,
Castle, secondary importance. The distance is 101
formerlvthe residence of the Earls of Mans- miles ; time by express, 2 hrs. 25 min. or-
;
is Kinmont House, one of the seats of the A few miles from Edinburgh, on the
Marquis of Queensberry, Annan is reached. right, Dalmahmj Park is reached. This is
Hotel, Queensbern/ Arms. Population 3200. the seat of the Earl of Morton. Among
The town is situated on the left bank of the curiosities of the mansion are the keys
the River Annan, which empties into the of Lochleven Castle, found in the lake after
Solway Firth just below the town. It was the escape of Queen Mary.
created a royal burg by King Robert At the Kirkneirton Junction is Calder
Bruce, and ranks as one of the most an- House, the seat of Lord Torphichen, finely
cient towns in Scotland. Hugh Clapper- situated on the banks of the !Marieston
ton, the celebrated African traveler, was a Water. A room is here shown where John
native of this place. It was here that Ba- Knox first administered the Iloly Com*
liol summoned the barons to meet him aft- munion in the Protestant manner.
er he had been crowned at Scone, when he Passing Carstairs Junction, supposed to
was surprised by Douglas at the head of a have been a Roman station, Carstairs
large cavalry force, and was obliged to fly House, a fine modern mansion, situated be-
for his life on a bare-backed horse and un- tween the station and the River Clyde, i§
attended. visible. It contains some fine pictures by
At the junction of the Dumfries and ancient and modern masters. At Syming-
the Caledonian Railwa}^ on Sark River, the ton Junction a branch line diverges to Pee-
boundarv-line between England and Scot- bles and Melrose near it may be seen the
;
land, is situated Gretna Green, a small strag- ruined tower of Lamington, a part of the
VoL. I.-H 169
Abixgton Station. [SCOTLAND.] LOCKERBT.
possessions of the wife of Sir William Wal- One of the loveliest excursions is that to
lace, whomarried the heiress of Lamington. Loch Skene, St. Mary's Loch, and Yarrow
It was here that Robert Burns left the fol- by the " Gray Mare's Tail," and Craigie-
lowing epigram on a seat in the church, bnrn, through the vale of Moffat's Water.
where the proceedings did not seem to take The house of Craigieburn is alluded to in
his fancy one of Burns's songs
"•"As caald a -wind as e^-er blew ; "• Sweet fa's the eve on Craigieburn,
A ctiulder kirk, and in 't but few; And blithe awakes the mciTow ;
As caiild a minister's e'er spak But a' the pride o' spring's retm-ii
Ye'll a' be het ere I come back.'* Can j-ield me nanght but soitow.'*
Passing ALington Station^ situated at Loch Skene, from which issues the wa^
the junction of the Clyde and Glengonner, Gray Mare's Tail, is about one
terfall of the
on the right may be seen the seat of Sir mile long and nearly one half wide. The
Edward Colebrook. This is considered an cataract is one of the highest and finest ia
excellent locality for fishing. Gold mines Scotland (200 feet). Sir Walter Scott gives
were worked here about the middle of the a glowing description of both this and the
IGth century. lake in his second canto of "^Marmion :"
Three miles farther the village of Craw- *•''
Tliere eagles scream from isle to shore;
ford is passed, close to which stands the Down all the rocks the torrents roar
O'er the black waves incessant driven.
ruins of Lindsay Tower, formerly the seat
Dark mists infect the summer heaven.
of the Earls of Crawford. Through the rude barriers of the lake.
'Winding through the Lowther Hills, Away its hurrj'ing waters break,
from which the Rivers Clyde, Tweed, and Faster and whiter dash and curl,
Till down yon dark abyss they hurL
Annan take their rise, we pass near Beat- Rises the fog-smoke white as snow,
tock Station the ruins oi Auchencass Castle^ 'I'hnnders tl)e viewless stream below,
once the stronghold of tlie Regent Murray. Driving, as if condemned to lave
Some demon's subterranean cave,
Two miles from Beattock Station, by i
"Who, prison'd by endianter's spell,
omnibus, is the dull but interesting town I
Shakes the dark rock with groan and yelL
• * * * *
•ofMoffat. 'Rot&l, A nnandale Arms. It is I
smell and taste of the water are in the high- Passing Wamphray and Nethercleugh
j
est degree disagreeable. The mountains Stations, Lockerby is reached. This place
in the vicinit}' are the highest in Scotland is noted for its sheep and cattle fairs, which
I
drives in the neighljorhood are exceedingly 1 Johnstones. There is a branch road hence
interesting, one of which is to the DeHVs to Dumfries, fifteen miles distant. Trav-
Beef Tub, a semicircular hollow of great elers returning from Edinburgh, who have
depth,where the River Annan takes it rise. not visited Dumfries, should change cars
Six miles from Moffat are the interesting j
here.
ruins of Lochivood Tower, an ancient resi- I
Four miles from the station of Locker-
dence of the Johnstones of Annandale. It by, near Lochmaden Station, was the lurth-
I
was built about the 14th centurA' but was ; place (by some disputed) of Robert Bruce.
aestroyed in 1585 bj' the INIaxwells, who j
The castle in which he was born was pull-
witli the Johnstones embroiled the peace ed down, and a larger one erected on a
of the country for many years, each party small peninsula east of Castle Loch. Noth-
claiming the wardenship of the Western j
ing now remains but a pile of rubbish.
Marches. I
Ecclefechan SUit'on, near which Carlyle
170
Craigmillar Castle. [SCOTLAND.] Peebles
town isthe Chambers Institute, an old res- To level with the dust a noble horde,
A brothei hood of trees
idence of the Queensberry family, restored Leaving an ancient dome and towers like these,
-with much taste, and converted into a pub- Beggared and outraged."
lic institution, containing a library of
10,000 volumes, galleries filled with casts The late earl, the new heir, immediately
from the antique, a museum well stocked replanted the avenue and other portions
with objects of interest. It contains a of the demense.
large hall, with portraits of James I., Queen Passing Horshw^ Castle, then CardTona
Victoria, and of the donor, Mr. William Station, in five minutes Innerleithen is
was a great friend of Wallace, who with Edinburgh to Carlisle, via Melrose, New-
Comyn, in 1302, defeated on Koslin Moor ton St. BosioelVs and Hawick,
Junction,
three divisions of the English army on the known as the "Waverley Route," on ac-
same day. The estates came by marriage count of its passing through the districts
into possession of the Earls of Tweeddale, associated with the writings of Sir Walter
or their ancestors. The second earl, who Scott. Time, express, 3 hrs. 15 min. ; fare,
declared for Charles II., held out longer 17s. =84 25.
here against Cromwell than any other The principal objects of interest on this
stronghold of the Forth, It was afterward route are described as far as Newton St.
purchased by the Duke of Queensberry, Bosicell's Junction in Route No. 60.
in Avhose family it remained until the The village of Newton is prettily sit-
death of the last duke, or " Old Q.," as he uated at the foot of the EUdon Hills. Ac-
was politely called, in 1810. This noble- cording to tradition, these three hills were
man, to spite the Earl of Wemyss, his heir formerly in one, but were changed in a
of entail, had the beautiful woods cut
all single night by his satanic majesty at the
down, among which was a magnificent av- request of the wizard Michael Scott, No-
enue of old trees by which the castle was ticeon a commanding height Eildon Hall,
approached, which action called down the one of the Duke of Buccleuch's numerous
indignation nf the poet Wordsworth : seats.
lr2
Hawick. [SCOTLAND.] Hermitage Castle,
Close by is the village of Lessuden: one "That bold chief who Henry's power defied,
True to his country, as a traitor died.
of the principal sheep markets in the south Yon mouldering cairns by ancient huntera
of Scotland was held here. placed,
About two miles from St. Boswell's, Where blends the meadow with the marshy
waste,
beautifully situated on the banks of the
Mark where the gallant warriors lie."
river, is Mertoun House, the seat of Lord
Polwarth. Armstrong was a kind of freebooter, who
Thirteen miles farther, and the prosper- levied contributions on all English trad-
ous manufacturin-; town of Hawick is ers he never, under any pretext, inter-
;
strong, of border notoriety. He was broth- cruel knight confined Sir Alexander I»am-
er to the chief of the clan Armstrong sav. of Dalhousie, in a vault below a gran-
17;-
Dalbeattie, [SCOTLAND.] DtTNDESNNAll.
ary for the purpose of starving him to death er with the promise of a ladleful of gold;
it is said he lived many days on grains of and when the traitor demanded payment,
wheat that had fallen through the chinks the earl caused the gold to be melted and
of the floor. It was in riding to this castle poured down his throat.
to see Bothwell that Queen Mary caught A little farther to the south is Gelsten
a cold that laid her up with a fever. Castle, a more modem structure, belong-
Fifteen miles from Steel Eoad Station is ing to the Douglas family.
Ridding's Junction Station^ whence there is An excursion should be made from Cas-
a branch line to Langholm and Eshdale. tle Douglas to Kirkcudbright. A
railway
Four miles farther the Gretna, Annan, and has been opened, and the time occupied is
Dumfries Pvoad branches off to the right thirty minutes.
and passing Lineside Station, ten miles [^Kirkcudbright, so called from " Kirk of
brings us to Cuthbert," contains a population of 2500.
Carlisle. See England (Index). It is well built on the Eiver Dee, and on
the principal street may be seen the ruins
of Castle McLellan, formerly Lords of Kirk-
cudbright.
About one mile distant is St. Mary^s Isle,
the seat of the Earls of Selkirk. Here
that bold and intrepid mariner, Paul Jones,
made a descent for the purpose of carrying
off the earl, but fortunately for him he was
absent at the time. Paul Jones was a
Scotchman, but, becoming disgusted with
ROUTE No. 66. the cruelties committed by the English on
Dumfries Stranraer and PortpatricTc.
to the Anglo-American prisoners, he took
Although the distance is only 80^ miles, sides with the Americans, and during the
on account of the single track the time "War for Independence made many success-
occupied by this route is 4 hrs. 30 min.; ful raids on the coast of England. In
fare, 1-ls. =$3
50 (changeable). 1778, at Whitehaven, in Cumberland, in
The place of any importance on the
first face of the fort, he entered the harbor and
route is Dalbeattie, situated in the valley carried off several merchant vessels ; and
of the Urr. It contains a population of in 1779, with a single vessel, he forced two
2000, which is principally employed in the English frigates to surrender. He visited
celebrated granite-quarries and paper-mills. France after this heroic combat, and was
All the granite for the Thames embank- received with immense enthusiasm. He
ment was procured from Dalbeattie. Six died in Paris in 1792.
miles farther we arrive at Castle Douglas. An excursion should be made to Dun-
Hotel, Douglas Arms. This neatly built drennan Abbey, about six miles from Kirk-
town is situated near the margin of Loch cudbright. The abbey is situated in a
Carlingwark, a very pretty lake, studded \evy pretty position at the head of a small
with islands. About one mile distant, on valley near the sea. The ruins, as they
the Island of Dee, is Threnve Castle, one of now stand, have been repaired at govern-
the old strongholds of the Douglases. The ment expense but the repairs came too
;
remains consist of a large square tower of late, as nearly every part of the abbey has
great strength, surrounded by a wall, and disappeared. The north and south wallo
throe round towers. Over the gateway of the chancel and transepts, with the en-
notice a projecting block of granite, called trance to the chapter- house, still exist.
" the hanging stone," of which the Doug- In the north transept there is a monument
lases Mere wont to boast that "the hang- to Alan. Lord of Galloway, said to be a
ing stone of Threave never wanted its tas- grandson of the founder.
sel I" Interesting object to daily visitors
! Dundrennan was the last place in which
Threave Castle has been the scene of many Queen Mary slept in Scotland previous to
a blood}'^ tragedy among the number was
; putting her life into the hands of Elizabeth
the murder of Sir Patrick McLellan. The in 1568, and the spot whers she embarked
Earl of Douglas bribed Sir Patrick's ward- is pointed out, and called Port Mary.
171
Gatehouse. [SCOTLAND.] PORTPATEICK.
ray Stewart. It is built of granite, and of North Britain who turned from their
the gardens and grounds are of exceeding idols to worship the true God owed their
beauty.] conversion to the bishop Ninian. He
Continuin;:; our route from Castle Doug- here built a church in the fourth century,
las, ue pass New Galloway Station^ distant to which kings and queens, churchmen
from the town five miles. On the way and warriors, made pilgrimages. James
thither Kenmure Castle is passed. This is IV. of Scotland often made a visit to the
a scat of the Gordon family. The title of shrine of St. Ninian twice a year, travel-
Kenmure was created by Charles I., but ing the whole distance from Edinburgh on
was forfeited in 1716, the last possessor foot. Nothing remains of the church, and
having been executed for high-treason. very little of the prior}-, built in the twelfth
The town is pleasantly situated on the century. What little there is is in the
River Ken, and contains 4500 inhabitants. Early English style.
Fas!i'iag Palnure Station, seventeen miles i
Two miles from the town there is a cave,
from New Galloway, and continuing up called St. Ninian's, on the rocky wall of
the valley of the Cree four miles, Newton ^
which a cross is carved.]
Stewart Station is reached. This is a [
Between Newton Stewart there is noth-
town of 2500 inhabitants, originally the ing of importance until Stranraer is reach-
residence of the Bishops of Galloway. It ed, with the exception of Castle Kenned}',
contains a line educational establishment, i
which had bettor be visited from Stran-
called the Evart lustitute, founded by a raer. WoiaX^, King's Arms axiiS. George. Tliis
gentleman of that name. i sea-ix)rt town contains 6UU0 inhabitants.
There is a fine excursion from this town It is situated at the head of Loch Kyan,
to a lovely little lake called Loch Trool. but contains nothing of imjwrtance to the
It nearly surrounded b)-- mountains,
is traveler. There arc numerous gentle-
some of them rising to a height of three men's seats in the vicinity which would
thousand feet. It is quite narrow, and be interesting to visit. Three piilcs from
about two miles long. The English force the town are the ruins of Castle Kenned//,
at one time was near being routed b}' erected iu tlie sixteenth century. This
Bruce' s men rolling down large stones castle was formerly the seat of the power-
trom the mountains. Lord Galloway has ful Earls of Cassilis, but is now the prop-
a veiy pretty residence on the lake. erty of tlie Earl of Stair, The earl's pres-
[There is an interesting excursion from ent seat is about a mile distant. It was
Newton Stewart by coach to Whithorn, finished in 1871, and is called Inch Castle,
twenty-one milss distant, passing Wigtoini, It is erected on an eminence commanding
a very pretty town, a short distance west a fine view of two lakes and the old Castle
of which is the village of Bladenoch, cele- Kennedy. The grounds of Inch Castle
brated throughout Scotland for its whisky. and Castle Kennedy are open to the pub-
Across the river are the ruins of Baldoon, lic on WednesdaA'S and Saturdays.
a seat of the Dunbars. Here occurred the Seven miles and a half west of Stranraer
circumstances upon which the "Bride of ,
is Porfpatrick; the nearest point to the
Lammerraoor" is founded. The bride- Irish coast. Nearly one million of dollars
groom was David Dundas, and the bride were spent on its liarbor for the purpose
the daughter of Lord Stair. Soon after of a mail-service to Donaghadec, but it has
their marriage she stabbed her husband, been discontinued. Half a mile from Port-
while laboring under the malady that kill- patrick are the ruins of the Castle of Dun-
ed her. Continuing through the village skev.
of A'»V^•m?^erand Garlieston, whence a steam-
er sails weekly to Liverpool, and where the
Earl of Galloway has a fine seat, Wkit-
hom is reached. This town, which contains
1600 inhabitants, is well known from the
175
Bannockburn. [SCOTLAND.] St. Niniaks.
via the battlefield of Bannockburn, or via peded that the superior force of the En-
Queensftrry and Dunftrmline. Time, 1 hx. glish was of little avail. In the rear of
20min. fare, 65. = $! 60.
; the Scottish army there was a hill, behind
For description of Linlithgow and Fal- which Bruce had ;:,tationed his baggage,
kirk, see Eoute No. 58. under the charge of " gillies," or servants,
At Larbert the line for Glasgow is left, ,
and camp-followers. At the moment the
and the road passes Kinaird, the residence English line was wavering, the sudden ap-
of the great Abyssinian traveler (Bruce), pearance of these followers (furnished with
who, after having passed through all the such weapons as they could most easily
dangers of travel in the interior of Africa, i
find) on the summit of the hill had the as-
met his death by falling down while hand- \
pect of a new armj' fresh on the field.
ing a lady to her carriage. \
Confusion immediately spread in the En-
Passing through the remains of Tor- glish ranks, and, as if seized with a panic,
wood where Sir William Wallace
forest, 1
they fled in every direction.
escaped from his enemies and found shelter I The loss of the English, in addition to
in a tree, we
arrive at i their prisoners,was over 10,000 men, that
Bannochbui-n^ noted for the famous bat- of the Scots 4000.
tle fought in its neighborhood. This im- ;
About a mile from the field of battle the
portant event took place June 2-i, 1314. Earl ofGloucester, nephew of King Edward,
The English army was composed of 100,000 made a stand, and fell gallantly at the head
men, under Edward IL, and the Scottish of his own military tenants in trying to
army of .30,000, commanded by King Rob- stop the flight.
ert the Bruce. Edward Bruce command- The hill on which the camp followers
ed the right wing, Randolph, Earl of Mo- appeared has since been called "Gillies
ray, the left, and the centre was led by , Hill."
Sir James Douglas and Walter Stewart, I The village of St. JVinians, to which
the Bruce's son-in-law, while King Robert Bruce's left wing extended, was occupied
himself commanded the reserves. The by the troops of the Pretender in 1745. The
spot where his roA-al standard was pitched church was used as a powder-magazine,
was called the Borestone: a portion of this and was blown up.
stone, in which the standard was stuck, This locality (some three miles to the
surrounded by a frame-work of iron to west) is also celebrated for the battle of
protect itfrom that pest of travelers, Sauchieburn, at which James III. was de-
relic -hunters, who in a century would feated and slain. The nobles of Scotland,
leave nothing to be seen by their descend- becoming dissatisfied with the government
ants, may still bo seen on an eminence of the king, rose in rebellion, and drew the
called " Brocks Brae," southwest of St. young Prince James, afterward James
Ninians. IV., into the plot. The king gave them
The English army at the time were ad- battle, and was defeated, the number against
vancing to the relief of Stirling Castle, him being much superior. The king, flying
which Bruce was besieging consequently from the field, was thrown from his horse,
;
he had choice of ground, and well did he which became frightened at a woman with
use it. The Scottish army extended in a a water-pitcher he was carried into Bea, ;
northeasterly direction from the Bannock ton's Mill, close to the village of Milton,
Brook to the village of St. Ninians. The in a state of unconsciousness. On recover-
ground was so rugged and broken that his ing he called for a priest, Avhen one of his
right was perfectly protected. His left pursuers, who had just entered, exclaimed,
was protected by digging pits across the ''I am a priest," and stabbed him to the
small peninsula between the brook and heart. His son, James IV., always felt
Milton Bog. These pits were covered such deep remorse for his conduct that it
with brushwood and green sods. Stakes is said, to do penance for his act, he wore a
also were driven in, and spikes scattered heavy iron belt, adding a few ounces to its
around to lame the horses. The flanks be- weight eveiy year as long as he lived.
\
17G
DCNFKRMLIXF. [SCOTLAND.] Falkland.
The prince was but fifteen years of age cipally devotod the manufacture of
to
when he joined in the plot against his fa- linen. The chief object of interest is the
ther. Abbey, founded. by ^lalcolm IIL in 1075.
Stirling^ see Eoute No. 51. Here the illustrious King Robert the Bruce
was interred in 1829, directly in front of
the high altar. Eight kings, five queens,
six princes, and two princesses of Scotland
repose within its walls. Besides the al>-
bey, there are other antiquities of interest
—
at Dunfermline the ruins of the palace in
which David IL, son of Kobert the Bruce,
was bom. Pilchard IL of England burned
it in 1385. It was again restored, and
Mary Queen of Scots lived here in 15G1.
The palace was also the birthplace of Charles
I. and of his sister Elizabeth, afterward
ROUTE No. 68. Queen of Bohemia.
Edinburgh to Dundee and St. Andrews, Dunfermline Abbey succeeded lona as
via Dunfermline. the burying-place of the monarchs of Scot-
The distance to Dunfermline had better land, ^Macbeth being the last buried in that
be made by caiTiage or coach, which leaves distant isle.
Edinburgh three times each day to South Only a portion of the Tower of Malcolm
Queensferry. To North Queensferry, across Kenmore remains standing in it was born
:
the Firth of Forth, two miles, steamers Maude, Malcolm Kenniore's daughter, wife
nearly every hour, thence to Dunfermline, of Henry L of England, whose body was
[
and Dunfermline is reached. Hotels, Xew continues on to Perth, and the St. Andrew s
and Jioi/al. Tliis interesting town, in ancient and Dundee line, passing through a finely
times the residence of the Scottish kings, wooded country, arrives at Cupar, the coun-
contains 15,000 inhabitants, who are prin- tv town of Fife, containing 5100 inhabit-
Vol. L—HH 177
Leuchaks Junction. [SCOTLAND.] RossiE Priory.
ants. Hotel, Royal. Although an ancient church founded by Bishop Wishart in the
town, there is nothing of importance to be 13th century.
seen the ruins of its ancient castle have
: Returning to Leuchars Junction, the road
been torn down, and on its site the Madras continues on to Dundee, crossing the great
Academy built. Tay Railway bridge, one of the most mag-
A short distance from the town there is nilicent undertakings in Europe. Instead
^
Avhere the line branches off to St. Andrews. and forty-five feet apart: the cost was
The village of Leuchars possesses some ex- e;l,750,000. In the middle it is 130 feet
j
The origin of St. Andrews, originally Perth toMontrose, via Dundee and Ar-
called Muckross, is unknown it was for-
; broath. Fare, 95. =^$2 25.
merly the seat of the primate of Scotland, For description of Perth, see Route No.47.
and was a place of great importance. The Railwa}' to Dundee in one hour. The
town abounds in curious houses and an- distance is diversified by numerous beauti-
tique monuments. On the west stands an ful country-seats. Three miles from Perth
antique portal unimpaired, and on the east is Kinfauns Castle, the seat of Lord Grey.
of the town is the Cathedral. This build- On the opposite bank of the Tay are the
ing was founded in 1159 by Bishop Arnold, ruins of Elcho Castle, the property cf the
but not completed until 1318. It was 350 Earl of Wem^'ss.
feet in length and 65 in breadth. It was Errol Park, an elegant modern mansion,
pulled down by the mob, excited against once the seat of the Earls of Errol, is sit-
idolatrv by a sermon of John Knox, the uated in the midst of beautiful grounds.
Reformer. Near the cathedral are the chap- On the left is the Castle of Fingask, the
el and tower of St. Regulus the former in
; seat of the Threipland family, which con-
ruins, the latter entire. The tower is 108 tains numerous relics of the Stuarts, whose
feet in height, and commands a delightful cause it warmly advocated both in 1715
view. The castle of St. Andrew stands and 1745. Some distance to the north may
on the northeast of the city, overlooking be seen the celebrated Dunsinane Hill, the
the sea, and is a ver\' picturesque ruin it ; site of the castle mentioned in Macbeth.
was demolished in 1547. James III. was It overlooks the " Birnam Wood " in the
bom here. vicinity of Dunkeld.
St.Leonard's College was founded at the Passing Inchture Station, some distance
commencement of the 16th century it con- ; north of which is Rossie Priory, the seat of
some interesting monuments.
tains Lord Kinnaird,a modern house, command-
The Madras College is a fine modern ing a ^\nQ view of the surrounding country',
structure erected in 1833. It is a juvenile es- and containing a collection of ancient and
tablishment, and averages nearly one thou- modern paintings.
sand pupils. Opposite this is an ancient A few miles farther east is Castle Hunt-
178
DUXDEE. [SCOTLAND.] Forfar.
hj,erected by Patrick, first Earl of King- There are two public parks, of no special
horn —
the same who built Glamis Castle. interest —
one of which was the gift of Sir
While in the Glamis family it was called David Baxter, a citizen of Dundee.
Castle Lyon. Passing Lonqfurgan and In- Steamers run daily to Perth, a most in-
vergowrie, and the seats of Lord Grey and teresting means of communication also to
;
the Earl of Campcrdown, the town oi Dun- Edinburgh, Newcastle, and London. Kail-
dec is reached. way to Edinburgh, Perth, and Stirling.
The city of Dundee is finely situated on Passing Droughty Ferry Junction, to the
the north side of the Firth of Tay, and con- right of which stand the ruins oi Droughty
tains 118.974 inhabitants (census of 1871). Castle, three miles from Arbroath, Panmure,
It is the third city in Scotland in point of the seat of the Earl of Dalhousie, is seen on
population and commercial wealth. Prin- the right.
cipal Hotels, Royal, Tower, and Eriiish. A rbroath. Hotels, A Ibion and White Hart.
Dundee is a place of great antiquity, of This is a well-built commercial sea-port,
which there are numerous proofs, and of con- containing 20,000 inhabitants. Its princi-
siderable historic note in the history of Scot- pal productions are coarse linen canvas and
land. It was taken by the English in 1296, sail-cloth. During the reign of King John
and retaken by Sir William Wallace in a charter was given to its monastery and
1297 taken again by Edward L, and re-
;
citizens, giving the peculiar right to trade
captured by Sir Edward Bruce. It was be- with every part of England, London ex-
siegedand burned by the Marquis of Mon- cepted, without taxation. In 1320 the Scot-
and again by General Monk, one of
trose, tish ncoility met here and drew up a re-
Cromwell's generals, in 1651, who, when he monstrance addressed to the Pope against
entered it, niercilessly butchered 200 women the claims made by Edward II. on the Scot-
and and 800 of the inhabitants, in- tish sovereignty.
children,
cluding the governor, Lumsden. Man}' of The Abbey of Arbroath, or Aberbrothock,
the Royalists of great wealth had fled with was founded by William the Lion in 1178,
their propeity to this strong city, and the and dedicated to Thomas b. Becket the re- :
plunder it is said was immense. mains are few and very fragmentary, as
Dundee is one of the principal seats of the municipal authorities were formerly in
linen manufacture in the kingdom, 25,000 the habit of selling the stones for building
of its inhabitants being occupied in that material. The grave of William the Lion
business but its greatest specialty is the is pointed out before the high altar.
; The
manufacture oi Jute carpeting. This is a Chapter-house is the most perfect part, and
substance something resembling hemp, but contains a portion of a monument with the
is the fibre of the jute, an Indian plant, and feet of a figure resting on a lion.
is made into coarse carpet^?, mats, sacking, The Abbots of Arbroath were custodians
and various objects. of the sacred banner of St.Colomlta.
The Z>ods, Victoria, King William, Grey, On the route to Montrose, Forfar can be
and Camperdown, are the principal objects visited by diverging a little to the left at
of interest in the city. Guthrie Junction.
Opposite the end of Union Street rises The coast route to Montrose, distant 16
the Old Steeple of St. Mary's Church, 156 miles, can be made by carriage, although
feet high, and one o. che most interesting there is nothing of importance to be seen.
towers in Scotland. The church was erect- Forfar, seven miles from the junction, is
ed in the l-lth century by David, Earl of the county town and a place of great antiq-
Huntingdon, after his return from the Holy uity, containing 12,600 inhabitants. Hotel,
Wars. The tower was much damaged by County Arms. It once possessed a castle,
Monk, but it has since been repaired. the residence of Malcolm Canmorc. The
The ascent of Dundee Law, a hill in the town was noted in former times for the
vicinity of the town, over 500 feet high, number of old women executed as witches.
should be made to obtain a splendid view Salem was nothing to it. In the county hall
of the locality. may be seen an instrument called "The
A
visit should be paid to the ^lessrs. Witches' Bridle,' which was placed on the
Baxter's Spinning-mills, the largest in the heads of the miserable victims to prevent
city ; they are e.xceedingly interesting. their cries being heard. A hollow to the
179
Brechix. [SCOTLAND.] DUNNOTTAR.
north of the town is called " The Witches' isolated rock may be seen the ruins of the
Howe." To the east of the town are the I
Castleof Dunnottar, the ancient seat of the
ruins of the Priory of Restennet. I
Keiths. It is separated from the land by
Six miles by rail, on the road toward a deep chasm, approached only by a path
Perth, is Glamis Castle, the seat of the i
winding around the rock, which in former
Earl of Strathmore. Admission to visitors j
days rendered it almost impregnable. It
on Fridays (see Route No. 47). Sixteen was taken, however, from the English in
miles from Forfar is the Bri<1ge of Dun 1296 by Sir William Wallace. It was again
Station and Junction.'^\\\encei there is a road captured by Edward III. in 1336, although
to Brechin. Hotel, Commercial. This flour- at this period it was simply a rock with a
ishing town, situated on the banks of the church built on the summit. The castle
South Esk, contains 8000 inhabitants. In was built b}' Sir "\^'illiam Keith toward the
former times it possessed an Abbey of Cul- close of the 14th centur\-. During the wars
dees. On the edge of a bank descending of the Commonwealth the Scottish regalia
to the river may be seen all that remains were kept here the garrison, reduced by
;
of its ancient church. It has been modern- famine, were obliged to surrender the re- ;
ized and destroyed. Adjoining the church galia, however, had previously been carried
is the Round Tower, 85 feet high, with an off by Mrs. Granger, wife of the minister
octagonal spire 25 feet more, displaying a of the parish.
model of symmetry and elegance. Brechin It was in the church-yard of Dunnottar
Castle, the ancient seat of the Maule family, that Sir Walter Scott met " Old Mortal-
stands on a precipitous rock in the vicinity ity " (Peter Patterson).
of the town. It underwent a siege during Dunnottar during the reign of Charles
the invasion of Edward I. in 1303, and onl}' ,
II. was used as a prison for confining the
surrendered when its brave governor. Sir Covenanters.
Thomas Maule, was killed. It is still in
the possession of the Maule famih', the Earl
of Dalhousie being the head.
At Dubion Junction, a small branch road
leads to Jfo7itrose, an interesting town, con-
taining 14,584 inhabitants. Hotels, Star
and White Horse. It was here that Sir
William Wallace landed when coming from
France to raise his standard in defense of
his country in 1303. It was here also that
the Chevalier St. George embarked for
ROUTE No. 70,
France in 1715, and Montrose was also the A KEW AND MOST IXTERESTIXG ROUTE.
head-quarters of the Ro^-alists in 1745. It From Glasgow or Oban to Sou7id of MuU,
was the birthplace of the Marquis of Mon- , Syhe, Galrloch, Auchnasheen, and Inverness,
trose, who was born in 1612 it was also the
;
returning through the Caledonian Canal to
liirthplace of Sir Robert Peel and Joseph Oban. Glasgow to Oban, see Route No.
Hume, whose statues may be seen in High 39.
Street. The principal public buildings are A swift steamer leaves Oban on Tuesdays,
the Town-Hall and the parish and Episco- Thursday's, and Saturdays during the sum-
pal churches. The South Esk is here mer months at 7 A.M., arriving at Portree
crossed by a fine suspension bridge. (Isle of Skye) at 5 P.M., and Gairloch at
There is a small branch railway from 7 P.M., Avhere passengers remain for the
Montrose to Bertie, on the shore road to night, and proceed the following morning
Stonehaven, which is distant ten miles. by coach to Auchnasheen, thence by train
Bervie was made a royal burgh by David to Inverness. The same steamer returns
IV., and was the birthplace of Coutts the from Gairloch the following morning at 7
banker. A.M., calling at Portree, and arriving at
Between Montrose and Aberdeen is situ- Oban at 7.30 P.M. Fare, from Oban to
town of Stonehaven. Hotel, Com-
ated the Portree, 205. =
65 from Oban to Gairloch,
;
The route from Glasgow to Oban is de- The following Xew Trip was inaugurat-
scribed in Route No. 39. From Oban to ed during the summer of 1874, and is high-
Gairloch, see Koute No. 57. ly spoken of by tourists.
Gairloch, handsomely situated at the From Oban Loch Scavaig for the Co(>-
to
At Slathdale, seven miles from Gairloch, wild grandeur of Scavaig, the eerie silence
the lake is at its widest, and from this point of Corruisk, and the gloomy majesty of the
to Kinloch Eice the scenery is most grand. Coolin Hills have been made accessible to
In the immediate vicinity are the mountains the tourist, so as to allow him to return to
of Ben Sleoch and Ben Each — the latter Oban the following day.
a magnificent object of white quartz, the " Starting at seven o'clock in the morn-
former rising in almost a straight line from ing, the steamer threads its way westward
tlie water's edge to the height of 4000 feet. through the Sound of 3Iull. To the right,
Guides may be obtained at the hotel at Tal- when opposite Duart Castle, a most mag-
ladale (anew first-class establishment re- nificentview of Loch Linnhe is obtained.
cently erected by Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, j
From eye can travel as far
this point the
and from which numerous excursions can j
north as Corran Ferry, scanning in the
be made). !
foreground the long green island of Lis-
Auchnasheen, a station on the railway '
scription, see Koute No. 45. For descrip- slopes of Appin and the Braes of Lochaber,
tion of route from Inverness to Oban, see culminating in the massive shoulders of
Route No. 43. Ben Nevis; and in the northwest the long,
181
Loch Scavaig. [SCOTLAND.] Loch Corruisk.
bare, grimly fissured sides of Morven. On to hold perpetual sway. Loch Corruisk is
rounding Ardnamurchan Point, the steam- four miles long by one mile broad, but the
er runs northward to Skye. On the horizon mountains on all sides rise with such sheer
to the west are seen the long flat islands of abruptness that one is led to suppose its
Coll and Tyree. area is much less than it really is. As a
'
Muck we pass on our left, and steer close
' rule the hillsides are utterly unscalable,
under the shadow of the Scuir of Eigg, be- and even the most manageable parts can
tween that island and the heavy mist-cov- onlj^ be attempted by the daring foot and the
ered shoulders of Rum, until we enter the steady head. Here at certain timc«r; of the
dark and silent waters of Scavaig. Loch year the eerie shriek of the eagle may be
Lishart and Loch Slappin, with the sub- !
heard but save for this appropriate cry,
:
stantial shoulders of Ben Blaveu at the and the light hissing treble of innumerable
northern extremity of the latter, we pass streams as they dash wildly down the
on our right. Before us lies the small and riven faces of the hills, there is no other
desolate island of Soa, like a weird spectre sound. After lingering meditatively for a
in the lonely loch and beyond, immediate-
; time on its shores, we rejoin the steamer,
ly before us, an abrupt boundary -line of and return to Oban after a day's sail of the
irregular hills, which grow in altitude and j
most delightful kind. It is no flattery to
savage grandeur as they retreat inland, say that the intelligent enjoyment of the
closes the picture, and impresses the mind day was immensely enhanced b}' the ex-
with solemn awe. Those who would see treme courtesy of the ofiicers on board."
the Cooliu Hills in their most picturesque It was on the shore of Locli Corruisk
aspect should do so from Loch Scavaig. that the Lord of the Isles and Bruce met
From this point, says a popular writer, Cormack Doil and his companions. It is
'the entire group of the Coolins is dis- evident there has been no change in the
played, with its spiral peaks and serrated I
savage grandeur of the surroundings since
projections, flanked on the right bv the I
that time :
huge, ruddy, conical ridge of Blaven. " Barely human eye has known
When seen in sharp relief against a clear A scene so stern as that dread lake,
sky, or in theirmore characteristic aspect, dark ledg(3 of barren stone.
AV'itli its
Seems that primeval earthquake's sway
with their summits shrouded in white roll- Hath rent a strange and shattered way
ing mists, rising and falling in the deep, Tiuongh the rude bosom of the hill
dark fissures, now enveloping and now un- And that each naked precipice,
Sable ravine, and dark abj'ss,
veiling the lofty pinnacles, reflecting hues
Tells of the outrage still.
of lurid purple from their moist and gleam- The wildest glen but this can show
—
ing surfaces these romantic hills present Some touch of nature's genial glow;
varieties of coloring such as no pencil can And heath-bells bud in deep Glencoe,
And copse in Cruchen Ben
delineate, and exhibit a spectacle of alpine —
But here above, around, below,
magnificence and stern sublimity unrival- On mountain or in glen
ed by the mountain scenery of any other No tree nor shrub, noi- plant nor flower,
Nor aught of vegetative power
part of the British Islands.' In a few min-
The weaiy eye may ken,
utes we are at the head of the loch. At For all is rocks at random thrown,
this point we are landed, and after a stift' Black waves.bare crags,and banks of stone
walk of less than a mile we come with a
As if were here denied
The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew,
bewildering surprise upon Loch Corruislc, That clothe with many a varied hue
lying gloomily in its grim amphitheatre The bleakest mountain-side."
of hills. Here silence and solitude seem SiK Walter Scott.
182
£ y 5 fe\ X. I C: /•>^ i^~ r-
c
Routes. [ENGLAND.] Routes,
For history and description, see p. 45. 89. The English Lake District, p. 252.
90. Lancaster to Carlisle (by the western
coast), via Ulverston, Whitehaven, and
ROUTES. Marj'port, p. 259.
72. London and Environs, including the 91. Carlisle to Newcastle, via Haltwhistle
Crystal Palace at Sydenham, Windsor Cas- and Hexham, p. 261.
tle, Richmond, Hampton Court, Greenwich, 92. Lancaster to Leeds, via Skipton, p.
Duhvich, p. 184. 262.
73. London to Bntjhton, Portsmouth, and 93. Sheffield to Lancaster, Penistone, Hud-
the Lsleof WigJd (description of Isle of dersfield, Halifax, and Bradford, p. 263.
Wight), p. 218. 94. London to Great Malvern, via Ox-
74. London to Hastings, via Chiselhurst ford and Worcester, p. 264.
and Tun bridge Wells, p. 226. 95. Londm to Penzance, via Reading,
75. L.ondon to Paris, via Tunhridge and Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Torquay, Dartmouth,
Folkestone, p. 227 'i. and Plymouth, p. 267.
70. London to Dove?; via Chatham and 96. Bristol to Birmingham, via Glouces-
Canterbury, p. 228. ter, Cheltenham, and Worcester, p. 271.
77. London to Norwich and Yarmouth, 97. Bristol to Chester and Liverpool, via
via Chelmsford, Colchester, and Ipswich Gloucester, Hereford, Shrewsbury, and
(direct route to Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Chester, p. 272.
the Rhine, via Harwich), p. 230. 98. Bristol to New Milford (for Cork and
78. London to Norwich and Wells, via Vi'aterford), via Newport, Cardiff, Siainsea,
Cambridge and Ely, p. 232. Caermarthen (Tenby, Pembroke), p. 273.
79. London to Hull, via Huntingdon, Pe- 99. Sicansea to Chester, via Merthyr Tyd-
terborough, Newark, Doncaster, and Selby, vil, Brecon, Builth, Llanidloes, Oswestry,
p. 233. and Rhuabon, p. 276..
80. London to Scarborough, via Bedford, 100. Bangor to Chester, via Caernarvon,
Leicester, Derby, Sheffield, and York, p. Barmouth, Dolgelly, Bala, Corwen, and
234. Rhuabon, p. 277.
81. Derby to Nottingham and Lincoln, p. 101. Aberysticlth to Caermarthen, via
236. Lampeter, p. 279.
82. Sheffield to Great Grimsby, via Gains- 102. Sicansea to Shrewsbury, via Llan-
borough, p. 237. dovery and Craven Arms, p. 280.
83. London to Edinburgh, via Berwick- 103. Newport (Wales) to Hereford, via
upon-Tweed, through Doncaster, Leeds, Pontypool and Abergavenny, p. 280.
Durham, and Newcastle, p. 238. 104. London to Basingstoke, Salisbury,
84. London to Liverpool and Manchester, and Exeter, p. 281.
via Rugby, Stafford, and Crewe, p. 239. 105. Exeter to BamstapU and Ilfracombe,
85. London to LAverpool,via Reading, Ox- via Eggsford, p. 285.
ford, Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon, War- 106. London to Dorchester and Weymouth,
wick, Birmingham, Shrewsbury, Chester, via Basingstoke, Winchester, and South-
and Birkenhead, p. 242. ampton, p. 285.
8G. Derhj to Manchester, via Ambergate, 107. London to Portsmouth, via Syden-
Rowsley (Chatsworth Station), Buxton, ham (Cryst:il Palace), Epsom (Derby
and Stockport, p. 246. races), Horsham, and Ford (to the Isle of
87. London to Dublin, via Rugby, Tam- Wight), p. 287.
worth, Crewe, Chester, Bangor, and H0I3-- 108. London A) Pamsgate and Margate,
hca<l. p. 248. via Chatham, p. 288.
.SS. Liverpool to Carlisle, via Preston, Lan- 109. Bath to Weymouth, via Frome, p.
caster, Kendal, and Penrith, p. 250. 288.
183
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
(1881) 3,814,571 in the metropolitan area. ing is known of it previous to that time.
In 1851 the population numbered 2.362,- In the time of Nero it bore the dignity of
—
000 over a million and a half increase in a Roman colony. During the last 800
twenty-live years. The present increase years it has suffered much from fire and
is 44,000 per annum, or a birth every pestilence. Its police regulations are ad-
twelve minutes. The city covers an ex- mirable, and it is considered to-day one of
tent of one hundred and forty square miles, the best-governed cities in the world. Lon-
or fourteen miles long and ten broad. don is particularly distinguished by the air
360,000 houses are occupied by the popu- of business which pervades its streets, es-
lation, and the cost of food is supposed to pecially in the "City." The West End
be 8800,000 per day and, although the
; has more the air of Paris, St. Petersburg,
climate of London is by no means pleasant, and other capitals. The streets are most-
its sanitar\' advantages over other capitals ly wide, clean, and well paved, the houses
are remarkable. According to statistics, plain and substantial, the architecture of
out of every thousand inhabitants 24 die j
the clubs and public buildings substantial
annually in London, while in Berlin 26, I
and elegant. The most fashionable por-
Paris 28', St. Petersburg 41, and Vienna 49 I
tion of London is the West End, and here,
die annually out of the same number of the ; as we have said, reside the aristocracy of
population. England (that is, during the season, which
The British metropolis lies principally lasts from February to August).
on the north bank of the Thames, in the
count}' of Middlesex. A
large portion,
however, is situated within the county of
Surrj', on the south bank of the Thames,
and 45 miles above that river's mouth.
The portion of this vast metropolis which
bears the name of " the City" is situated
on the north bank of tlie Thames, between
the Tower and Temple Bar, and was for-
merly surrounded by walls. The other HOTELS.
divisions are Westminster, Marylebone,
The LangJiam, Metropole, Midland Grand,
Finsbury, Lambeth, Tower Hamlets, Chel-
A lexandra, St. James, Bi istol.
sea, and Soiithwark. In addition to these
" The Langham " isa beautiful house in
parliamentary divisions, London has nu-
merous social divisions, the centre of which Portland Place, at the head of Regent
is Temple Bar. The commercial centre is i
Street, and has been for many years a
184
1
SKETCH PLAN OF LONDON
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
opened in 1885, and unsurpassed for com- Lodgings are, on an average, twenty-
fort, elegance, convenience, and all modern five per cent, cheaper than in Paris, al-
requirements. though ever}' thing depends on the lo-
j
houses in the United Kingdom, is situated always find furnished houses at the West
in a most healthy centre of fashionable End. Among the best restaurants are
London, at Hyde Park Corner. The rate "Verrey's," Regent Street; ''The Bur-
of charges is moderate. lington," Regent Street; ''The Holbom,"
The St. James Hotel, in Piccadilly, has 218 High Holbom ; "The Criterion,"
for many years been a favorite stopping- :
Piccadilly; "
James's Hall," Regent
St,
place for Americans. Its position, close to Street; "The Bristol," at the Hotel Bris-
the park, and still central, could hardly I tol, Burlington Gardens (the best tub e
have been improved upon. I
d'hute \\\ London); the "Cafe Royal,"
The Bnstol Hotel is finely conducted by Regent Street; "The Gaiety;"' finally,
Mr. Diette, and celebrated for its restaur-
is " Simpson's," undeniably the best place in
rant. It enjoys one of the best situations London for a good, substantial joint dinner
in London, being in the Burlington Gar- ;
(large dining-room for ladies on first floor).
dens, in close proximity to Bond and Re- j
The other best restaurants for ladies are
gent Streets, near Piccadilly, It is fur- "Verrey's," "The Bristol,'' and "Conti-
nished in Continental style, with every nental," When making excursions or
possible comfort first-rate cuisine and ex.
; dining in the suburbs, the houses of high
cellent wines. repute are the "Star and Garter," Rich-~^
mond the "Ship" and "Trafalgar,"
;
free.
Greemiich Hospital, GreenAvich, from 10
summer and 10 to 3 in -ninter Mon-
to 7 in ;
to 3. Paintings.
Guy's Hospital, St.Thomas Street ; stu-
dents' introduction.
Hampton Corurt Palace, everv day except
I'iigUs that the Traveler should see, witn the '
,
—
Town. 10 and 4 by ticket, on application at the
;
Antiquarian Society, Somerset House; Lord Great Chamberlain's Office, near Vic-
by
letters to the Secretary. toria Tower.
Apsley House, by order from the Duke Hyde Park and Rotten Row, from 12 to ""
^British Museum, Great Russell Street, Kensington Gardens. Band plays Tues- ^^
—
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from .
.
daA's and Fridays, between 5.30 and 6.30,
10 to 4. (See New Reading-room.) May and June.
" Buckingham Palace, Royal Stable, and Kensington Museum, open daily from 10
Picture-gallery ; order from the Lord Cham- to 4, and from 7 to 10 Monday and Tues- ..^^^
berlain's Office, and for the Stables, to the day evenings. Free on Mondays, Tues-
Clerk of the Mews. days, and Saturdays on other days, six-
;
pence. '
Chelsea Hospital and Chelsea Royal Mil- toons of Raphael, the Vernon and Sheep-
itary Asyhim, on application. shanks galleries of paintings.
ChisicicTc Horticultural Gardem, open dai- Kew Botanical Gardens, from 1 to 8 in
ly ; order from member. summer, and 1 to 4 in winter, and from 2
Christ's Hospital, Newgate Street ; by on Sundays free. ;
'
genu's order. ;
^^
morning. {
ed a tasting order.''
" Sydenham, daily; from
Crystal Palace, London Missionaries' Museum, Tuesday,
I
Custom-house and Coal Exchange, Lower Mansion House, 1\ to ?j; small fee to the
Thames Street. attendant (when Lord ]Mayor is absent).
1
Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Old Kent Road Metropolitan Cattk -market, Smithfield;
I
^
free. i
earlv in the mo-nin;.
186
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
Mint, Tower Hill, 11 to 3 free order ; ; Tussaud's Wax Exhibition, open day and^
from the Master of the Mint. evening. Go in the evening, 7 to 10 one ;
American Legation. j
chapel, sixpence.
Private Galleries, for entrance to which, I
Westminster Hall (close to the Abbey).
apply by letter to the proprietors Bridge- : I Windsor Castle, free Mondaj^s, Tues-
;
water Gallery, St. James's, Duke of Suther- days, Thursdays, and Fridays from April
;
Baring's collection. I
days, sixpence other woek-tlaj's, one shil-
;
Soane's Museum, every Thursda}** and travel over the routes we are about to de-
Fiiday in April, May, and June, and on scribe. Secure a seat near the driver, who
Tuesdays, b}- application, from February will, especially if his memory be refreshed
to August. with a small fee, point out the different ob-
j
Society of Arts, John Street, Adelphi jects of interest or take a Hansom by the ;
free ;daily, except Wednesday. hour, with an intelligent valet de place ; or,
j
St. Bartholomeic' s Museum, Picture-gal- ing the different omnibus routes. Start-
lery, and Hospital. ing from Charing Cross, the architectural
St. George's Hospital, medical student's and fine-art centre of the West End. the tow-
order. ers of Westminster Palace and the houses
j
St. James's Park and Palace, daily by of Parliament on your right, the National
;
application to the Clerk of the Mews. Gallery on your left, the beautiful club-
^^ St. Raid's Cathedral, daily, Sundays ex- houses of Pall Mall in your rear, with Nel-
cepted. Area free vaults, gallery, ball, son, in Itronze. looking down upon you from
;
etc., in all, three shillings and twopence. a height of lllO feet, you proceed along
Thames Tunnel. Go by steamer to Wap- the Strand, passing Somerset House,
ping, then by rail througli the Tunnel to through the site of Temple Bar, which
London Bridge. marked the city's limits, on the west
I
cial centre, the Exchange, in front of Avhich ment Street to Waterloo Place, to Pall
stands an equestrian statue of the Duke of Mall, the great club and social centre of
"Wellington, the Mansion House, the resi- London ; St. James's Street, past St.
dence of the Lord Mayor, Bank, etc. ; down Jam.es's Palace and Marlborough House to
King William Street to London Bridge, Buckingham Palace, to Hyde Park Corner,
passing in view of the beautiful monument to Cumberland Gate or Marble Arch. Pri-
erected to commemorate the great fire vate carriages only can enter the Park:
;
then King William's statue. London cabs and hacknej^ coaches are not permit-
Bridge, from 9 to 11 A.M., is one of the ted entrance. Oxford Street to Regent
greatest sights of the capital. In the im- Street, and down Regent (the fashionable
[
mediate vicinit}'^ hundreds of steamers are shopping street) to the starting-point, Char-
j
clerks, and others fur the city, amid a fear- Next drive to the Southwestern Rail-
ful din of ringing bells, steam-whistles, way Station, and take the train for Rich-
shouting carmen and omnibus conductors, mond or Hampton Court, returning by
while the bridge itself is one mass of mov- the Thames in a boat to Greenwich. This
ing passengers and vehicles. On your left will be a most interesting excursion, es-
is Billingsgate (who has not heard of that pecially if you find a comparatively intel-
famous fish-market.'); next the Custom- ligent boatman to explain the different
house, then the Tower of London, below sights on the banks of the winding river.
which are St. Catharine's Docks, then the
HINTS TO TRAVELERS,
'
on all coal landed. On the left, or upper closed on Sunday devote that day to the ;
mongers' Hall, belonging to one of the rich- Beware of a London mob the pickpock- ;
est London corporations. Cross the bridge, ets arc not only expert, but dangerous.
and continue to the Elephant and Castle, In driving, take the left-hand side in
I
;
his orders; the Admiralty; Westminster leave them yourself, with your card, or
Hall, the Law Courts of England West- send them by a messenger.
; The proper
minster Abbey, where England's kings and hour to make calls is from four to six.
queens have been crowned, from Edward The usual dinner-hour is from six to
the Confessor to the present time, and eight. Ladies are handed to the table, but
j
where many of them lie buried. Here, \\e\cr from it, in England.
I
188
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
The cabs and cab-fares of London are a afterward, C*. (jd. Single horse, carriage.
subject in Avhich, in common with those of and coachman, two hours, 8*. M. ;each
other large cities, all travelers take a spe- hour afterward, ?>s. %d.
cial interest. The horses, as a general To and from theatre or receptions, IO5
thing, are better tlkan those of Pari?, and 6(7. to 145. In excursions to the country,
make better time, even when going by the twenty-five per cent, should be added to
aour, and are infinitely superior to those the above prices.
of New York. But the price is higher than In directing letters, parcels, etc., be care-
that of Paris ; we can
not compare it with ful to mention the postal district, of Avhich
any thing in New
York, as there every there are ten. viz.. North, South, East, West.
thing public in the shape of horse-flesh is NorthAvestern, Southwestern, Northeast-
a delusion and a snare, if we except the ern, Southeastern, Western Central, East-
omnibus and horse-car. ern Central. These districts are usually
There are two species of public conve}'- represented bv the initial letters N., S., E.,
ance in London —
the '"Four-wheeler^ and W., N. W., S. W., N. E., S. E., W. C, E.
''Hansom."' The former holds four persons, C. as, London, N.
; ; London, E. C.
the latter (named after the inventor) two. As there are thirty-seven King Streets,
The price of the Hansom is two shillings thirty-five Charles Streets, and twenty-
and sixpence, and the Four-wheeler two nine John Streets in the city, note the par-
shillings the hour two miles and under, one
; ticular street thus: Charles Street., St.
shilling; every mile additional, sixpence. James's; King Street, Covent Garden, 11'. C,
If, when taking a cab, you do not mention etc.
that you tiike it by the hour, the driver will As a matter of course, omnibuses run in
charge you the distance rates, and sixpence nearh- every direction, but ladies rarely
for every quarter of an hour you stop. use them. An entirely diflferent class of
After 8 o'clock in the evening and up to people occup}' the inside from that which
6 o'clock in the morning, the driver is not occupies the Broadway omnibus, althougli
compelled to drive you by the hour. they are much patronized by business men
When more than two persons are con- going to and coming from the city.
veyed in the same cab, an additional six- If at any extreme point in the city,
pence is paid for each person for the whole and wishing to go to another, you can
time. save both time and expense by taking
An ordinary amount of baggage can be the Underground or Metropolitan Rail-
taken free of charge, if onlj- one or two way, which runs nearly round the city
persons are in the cab if more, twopence (see map).
; Although an underground
is charged for every package carried out- railroad, it is by no means disagreeable,
side. but rather the contrary the cars are ;
A
"//frnsom" will always convey j'ou comfortable, with no smoke, the engines
with greater speed than a '^Four-wheeler,^'' using coke and condensing their steam.
especially if an extra fee be promised. Trains, starting at the houses of Parlin-
In case of any attempt at extortion on ment, stop at St. James's Park ; Victo-
the part of the driver, you can compel him ria Station ; Slonne Square ; South Ken-
to drive you to the nearest police-court, or sinfjfon ; Brompton ; High Street ; Noitinq
i
station if the court be closed. Hill Gate ; Queen's Road ; Baysioater ; Pad-
I
A driver can not be compelled to drive dingfon, the Great Western station, where
over four miles per hour unless paid extra. you take the trains for Liverpool, North
j
Try to kcop supplied with change; the and South Wales, West of England, Mid-
I
The ch;.rge for private carriages varies [Street, to Madame Tussaud's Exhibition;
189
^ONUON. [ENGLAND.] London.
Poi'tland Road ; Gotoer Street Road ; King's vices in everj' style to suit all tastes and
Cross; Farringdon Street Junction; Alders- purposes. The principal hall is a won-
fjate^near the Post-office and St. Paul's der of architecture, the light, being let in
Cathedral Moongate, near the Bank, Ex- through a thick tesselated roof, falling with
;
change, Lombard Street, and the banking equal radiance on every side, and rendering
section of the city. the view agreeable and at first inexplica-
Having reached the "City" under the ble. The finest glasses have the clearness
houses and sewers, return b}' the railroad and ring of crystal, and the cutting, by a
thrown over the houses, and twice over the new invention (the property of the house),
river, from the Cannon Street Station to is most beautiful and artistic. The show-
Charing Cross, occupying the short space room is at 100 Oxford St.
often minutes. This is the most expedi-
tious mode of reaching the city or return-
ing from it.
The Messengers or Commissioners of
London consist of a corps of wounded sol-
diers of unexceptionable character, all of
whom have lost some limb in the service
of their countrv'. Thej'- are to be trusted
on all occasions. Their legal fare is, for
half a mile, twopence one mile, or more
;
are regulations for morning and evening of William III., contained only 26 acres;
bathing "posted" at various places. A Queen Anne added 30 more, and Queen
verj' pretty little Italian garden, contain- Caroline ."00. The pleasure-grounds are
ing statuary, fountains, etc.,has been open to the public, on foot only carriages
:
formed at the head of the Serpentine, ren- are never permitted to enter. A fine band
dering it much more attractive along its
; plays at certain hours here during the sea-
bank, on the north, is the Ladies: Mile, a son.
celebrated carriage-drive. A stone bridge aS7. Jameses Park, situated near the pal-
of five large arches and two of smaller di- ace of the same name, was greatly improved
mensions, erected in 1826, at the western b^ !lenrv VIII., who drained the grounds,
extremity, gives access to the gardens of aiivl added to their beauty in various ways ;
Kensington Palace. Near the southeast still greater improvements, however, were
entrance of the park, close to Apsle}' House, made by Charles II,. and the 3f(iU formed,
stands, on an elevated pedestal, tlie colos- which was devoted to the game of ball.
sal bronze statue of Achilles, weighing This park covers over 90 acres in the cen-
:
thirty tons, executed by Westmacott at a tre is a lovely sheet of water, dotted with
'iost of £10,000, cast from cannon captured little islands, and upon its surface glide
•t the battles of Waterloo and Salamanca, along the graceful swan and water-fowls
erected to the " Duke of Wellington and the bridge across this sheet of water was
his companions in arms by their country- erected in 1857, The music of birds and
women." The Marble Arch, which was the fragrance of flowers delight the visitor
removed from the front of Buckingham j
on every side. The avenues form most
Palace, forms the northeast entrance to the I
agreeable and shady promenades, being
park, at the end of Oxford Street. fine A j
bordered by lofty trees and flowering
series of arches and balustrades, from the shrubs. The park can be entered from
designs of Decimus Burton, form an at- about nine or ten different points, at each
tractive feature at the southeast entrance j
of which the Queen's Guard are stationed,
to the park. The Great Exhibition Build- j
doing constant duty. The Parade, or large
ing of 1851, now the Crystal Palace at Syd- graveled space, presents quite a military
I
enham, formerly stood on Hyde Park, op- appearance in the morning at ten o'clock,
posite Prince's Gate. To the left of this j
at which time about eight hundred men are
gate, as 3''ou enter the park, stands the mustered as body-guards for the day. At
National Monument to the Prince Consort, !
the nortli end of the parade is a piece of
a Gothic structure 115 feet high, designed Turkish ordnance of immense size, brought
by G. G. Scott. The canopy rests on a from Alexandria, in Egypt; and on the
structure or base of Irish granite 130 feet south side is a vast mortar, which was used
square. At the four corners are four mar- in Spain during the Peninsular War, and is
ble groups representing Europe, Asia, Af- said to send a bomb-shell with great force
rica, and America. The granite columns about four nules. At the entrance to the
which support the canopy are from the Isle park from >\'aterloo Place is a broad flight
r>f jNIull. Above the groups representing of steps, surmounted by a lofty column, in
the four quarters of the globe are four oth- ;
commemoration of the late Duke of York.
er groups representing Agriculture, Man- Some of the drives in this park are con
ufactures, Commerce, and Engineering. lined chiefly to the aristocracy. The sur-
Dn the basement are numerous life-size ,
rounding buildings are lofty and very hand*
figures representing different notables in I Bome, among which are St. James's Palace,
Vol. I.— 191
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
Marlborough House, and Buckingham Pal- four hundred and sevent^'-.two acres, orna*
I
ace. On the opposite side liom Bucking- mented with sculptures, flowers, lakes, and
ham Palace are tliree of the principal pub- pretty villas. It derives its name from
lic offices— the Horse Guards, Admiralty', the Prince Regent, afterward George IV..
and Treasury. On the southern side of by whom it was designed, in 1812. It con-
\
the park is t^e celebrated Bird-cage Walk, tains a botanical garden, around Avhich
>vhich derived its name from being former- there is a fine drive also around the whole ;
ly appropriated entirely to the merr^' song- park, nearly two miles in extent. To the
sters, -whose sweet matins enchanted the north of the park lie the famous Zoological
visitor in his early rambles. On the north Gardens, owned by the Zoological Society
side, in addition to St. James's Palace, there of London, founded in 1826. This collec-
IS Marlborough House, the town residence tion is the finest in the kingdom. Among
of the Prince of Wales Green Park, Staf-
;
nearly' two thousand specimens are a pair
Itrd House, residence of the Duke of Suth- of hippopotami, presented b}' the Viceroy
erland ; Carlton Ride, and Carlton House of Eg}-pt. The collection of reptiles, mon-
Terrace. This park is noted for numer- keys, and birds is very large. The sea-
ous historical events. Charles I. walked bear and elephant calf are two of the prin-
through it, surrounded by soldiers, from cipal objects of attraction. The lions and
his palace (St. James's) to Whitehall to be tigers are fed at 4 o'clock P.M. During
executed ; Sir Robert Peel was thrown the summer the Life Guards band plays at
-
\
from his carriage and killed on Constitu- 4 in the afternoon. Sunday is the fashion-
'
tion Hill, at the upper end and Queen able day, but then you can only enter with
;
Victoria was nearly assassinated at three members' tickets, which are easily pro-
dififerent times near the same place. cured at' the hotels. On Monday the ad-
Green Park may be called a continuation mission is sixpence on all other days, one :
of St. James's ; it is situated between the shilling. To the north of the Zoological
last-named and Piccadilly, connected with Gardens lies Primrose Hill, noAv laid out in
Hyde Park by Constitution Walk, formerly walks and public gardens : an interesting
the king's coach-road to Kensington. It view may be had from its summit.
is smaller than St. James's Park, covering Batiersea Park is a comparative!}- new
i
only 60 acres. Some very elegant mansions park, situated on the right bank of the
i
are situated on this park Bridgewater Thames, immediately opposite the Chelsea
:
j
House, the residence of the Earl of Elles- Hospital, and is reached h\ a most grace-
;
mere ; Spencer House, residence of Earl ful and elegant suspension bridge, erected
Spencer; Stafford House (corner of Green in 1858. Ten years ago the site of this
and St. James's). This is one of the finest park was a marshy field, below the level of
private houses in England, and cost nearly the river, but one and a half million dol-
j
one and a half million of dollars. At the lars have made it a most lovely spot for
'
upper end (Hyde Park Corner) is an im- the denizens of this quarter of the cit}'.
I
mense equestrian statue of the late Duke It contains one hundred and eighty-five
(if Wellington. On the opposite side of acres, four of which are devoted to a siih-
the street (Piccadilly) is Apslcy House, Tropical Garden. It was here the Duke
residence of the late and present duke. of AVcllington fought his famous duel with
Victcrm Park, Bethnal Green, contains Lord Winchelsea.
two hundred and sixty-five acres. It is Finsbury Pai'k, formerly Hornsey Wood,
situated in the northeast part of London, contains one hundred and twenty acres.
.ind was begun during the reign of Queen This was commenced in 1867.
Victoria. The grounds are tastefully laid Souihwark Park contains sixty -two
out with flower-beds, shady walks, and acres.
small lakes. In the centre of a pretty Richmond Park, Kew Gardens, and Green--
sheet of water rises a beautiful fountain of vich Park will be treated under the " En-
Gothic architecture, designed l)y Mr. Dar- '
virons of London."
b5'?hire, and erected at the private expense i Kennington Park or Common is also a
ofMissBurdettCoutts, Its cost was about pleasure-ground of some importance. I(
$25,000. j
Avas here the celebrated Chartists' meet
Eegenfs Park, a delightful 8pot, covering !
ings were held in 1848.
192
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
squares, remarkable either for the monu- principal members of the British aristoc-
ments they contain or for their noted build- racy. On the north resides the Marquis
ings. The principal are of Bristol the Wyndham Club is also to
;
Trafalfjar Square, built between 1830 the north, and the back front of the hand-
and 1850, the centre of which is ornament- some Junior Carleton is at the south. On
ed with granite fountains. On the north the east arc the residences of Earl De Grey,
side is the National Gallery of Paintings ;
Earl of Falmouth, Earl of Derb}'^, Bishop
on the south stands Nelson's Monument of London, and the Duke of Norfolk.
and Landseer's lions. On one side of the George III. was also born at the southeast
monument may be seen General Have- corner. On the west is Litchtield House,
iock's statue on the other, that of Sir
; the Army and Navy Clulj, the residences
Charles Napier, Corresponding with these, of the Bishop of Winchester, Sir William
on the northern corner is the equestrian j
Wynn, and the Duke of Cleveland.
statue of George IV. by Chantrey, and at I Hanover Square, built between 1720 and
the northwest corner a base waiting for a 1730. On the southern side is a bronze
hero to be bom. statue of ^^'illiam Pitt hy Chantrey. Lady
In front of Nelson's Monument, at the Mary Wortley ^lontaguc formerly lived
head of Whitehall Street, stands the eques- and died in a house on the southern side.
trian statue of Charles I. by Le Sueur this : St. George's Church, noted for all the fash-
is on the spot where once stood Queen ionable marriages which occur in London,
Eleanor's Cross, the place of execution of is situated on this square. The Duke of
the Regicides. A
short distance farther Wellington gave away many of the brides.
down Charles himself was beheaded. On the northern side are tlie Royal Agri-
Belgrave Square, built between 1826 and cultural Society of England, the Zoological
1833, on land belonging to the Marquis of Society, and the residence of the Earl of
Westminster. The houses are uniform Ilarewood and on the west the Royal
;
and rather handsome, adorned in front Academy' of Music, the Oriental Club, and
with large Corintliian columns. On the the residence of the Earl of Lucan.
northern side lives the Duke of Bedford Berkeley Square was built between 1730
and Earl of Burtington on the east, the
; and 1740. On the south is situated Lans-
Duke of Montrose at the southeast corner,
; downe House, the residence m
the Mar-
the Earl of Sefton and on the west. Sir
; quis of Lansdowne, which contained a pic-
Roderick Murchison. ture and sculpture gallery. On the east
Grosvenor Square was built between is situated the house No. 11, in which Hor-
1720 and 1730, mostly by Sir Richard Gros- ace Walpole died also the residence of the
;
venor, who erected a statue to George I., Earl of Balcarras. On the west are the
since removed. The houses are large and mansions of the Earl of Haddington and
handsome. The Earl of Wilton lives on the Earl of Powis. In this last the cele-
the eastern side, the Earl of Shaftesbury brated Lord Clive died.
and Duchess of Cleveland on the west, and Cavendish Square was built between 1730
the IMarquis of Exeter, Marquis of Ayles- and 1760. It contains the equestrian st-atue
bury, and Earl of Ilarrowby on the south. of the Duke of Cumberland, and a statue
Portman Square, built between 1790 and of Lord George Bentinck. On the west is
1800. surrounded bv handsome resi-
It is Harcourt House, the residence of the Duke
dences. On the
south are the mansions of of Portland. On the south is Holies Street,
Lord Leigh and the Earl of Cardigan. Aat in No. 10 of which Lord Byron was born.
the northwest corner notice a detached Sofio Square, built between 1670 and
house :it was here that the celebrated 1690. It contains a statue of Charles II.
Blue -stocking, ^Slrs. ^Montagu, gave her The whole of the southern side was orig-
Mav-day dinners to the chimney-sweep inally occupied by ^Monmouth House. On
boys of London. the west is the Soho Bazar and the man-
St. James's Square, built between 1070 sion of Sir Joseph Banks.
and 1690. In this square is situated the Bloomshurtf Square, built between 1670
bronze equestrian statue of William III. and 1715. It contains a statue of C. J.
fey Bacon. The handsome mansions sur- Fox by Westmacott. On the eastern side
193
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
formeri3' stood the mansion of Lord Mans- Making the cirde of their rei»n complete—
The.-^e suns of empire, where they rise tiiey set,"
field, destroyed in the riots of 1780 and on ;
the northern side was formerly situated the Here the royal coronations have take^
Bedford House. place since the time of Edward the Con-
Leicester Square^ built between 1670 and fessor up to the present time, with great
1690. This squarethe great centre of
is pomp and magnificence and. even thougU
;
French refugees. On
the east is the Al- the ceremony had been performed else.
hambra ; also the Sabloniere Hotel, in part where, it was thought necessary to repeat
of which Hogarth formerly lived on the ; it at Westminster, in the presence of all the
St. James's Park, stands a Doric pillar of and the twelve Patriarchs the arms of ;
granite, surmounted by a statue in bronze King Sebert, King Edward the Confessor,
of the Duke of York' It is 124 feet in Queen Elizaljeth, King George II., and
height. A fine view is obtained from the Dean Wilcocks, Bishop of Rochester. The
summit. south, or marigold -window, of stained glass,
One of the most conspicuous monuments designed by Messrs, Ward and Nixon in
in the cit}' is situated on Fish Street Hill, 1847, represents different subjects from the
It is a Doric column over 200 feet in height, Old Testament, incidents in the life of the
designed by Sir Christopher Wren. It was Redeemer, and the word "Jehovah" sur-
erected to commemorate the " Great Fire" rounded by angels. The north, or rose
in London. The pedestal was sculptured window, is commemorative of our Savior,
by Cil)ber. On the summit is an imitation the twelve apostles, and the four Evangel-
of a blazing sun. ists. Near the Abbey stood the sanctuarj-,
Westminster Abbey. — used in former times as a place of refuge
"Tliat antique pile behold, for criminals, Edward V, was born here ;
Where royal heads receive the sacred gold his heart-broken mother sought refuge in
It gives them crowns, and does tlieu* ashes
this place for herself and her son Richard
kee))
There made like gods, like mortals there they from the persecutions of his cruel uncle.
sleep, Wc will enter at the Poets' Corner (south
194
LONDOV. [ENGLAND.] London
transept), and notice a few of the monu- Thomson, author of the Seasons: John
ments which are the most reinarlvaljle. Gay; Dickens, buried June 14, 1'^yO; Mrs.
MiUo7i^ bu.st and tablet, witii a lyre around Pritchard tiie actress, and others. The
which is entwined a serpent holding an monuments to Chaucer, Spenser, and Dray-
apple. With what admiration wc look ton were erected at the expense of Anne
upon the author of Paradise Lost, and Pembroke that of Cowley by George, ;
lind ourselves lost in the beauties of his duke of Buckingham and that of Prior, ;
worlvs. tShukspeare, full-length stiitue, lean- with the inscription, by himself You will
iuij; against a pillar, with the crowned be conducted by a guide through the jirin-
heads of C^ueen Elizabeth, Henry V., and ci|jal chapels, for which you are taxed six-
Kichard IL 11 ow much sadness it awak- pence the admission to the nave and tran-;
ens in the mind to think of such talent iiav- septs is free during Divine service, and be-
ing passed forever to "that undiscovered tween the hours of twelve and three in win-
country from whose bourn no traveler re- ter, and four and six in summer.
turns!" The first chapel is that of .SV. Benedict,
All Iiail, gri>at master! grave sir, liail ; I come but is not shown. It was dedicated to St.
To answer thy best plesusiire
: be it to tiy, Benedict, a native of Italy, founder of the
To swim, to dive into the fire,
to ride Benedictines and of the monastery at Cas-
On the curled clouds to thy strong bidding task
Ariel and all his quality.
;
—
Tempest^ Act I.
sino. The principal monuments are those
of the Countess of Hertford and Simon
Freckiick Handel, monument with full- Langham, archbishop of Canterbury'. The
length statue, organ, and music scrolls he : second, or Chapel of St. Edmund, contains
needs no more enduring fame than being some fine tombs of monumental brass the :
the author of the magnificent oratorio of the principal are those of William de A^alence,
IMessiah. Robert Southe//, tablet and bust earl of Pembroke Duchess of Suffolk,
;
but little ornament is required commemo- mother of Lady Jane Grey Lady Kussell;
rative of the poet whose impressive and John, earl of Cornwall, son of Edward II.
elegant style will endure while memory and Duchess of Gloucester. Chapel of -Sf^
lives. Abnihani Coidey, urn surrounded by Nicholas. —
The monuments in this chapel
a wreath distinguished and admired for
: wliicli are most attractive are Winifred,
his elegant scholarsliip and ability as a marchioness of Winchester; Duchess of
writer. Geoffrey Chaucer, antiquated altar Northumberland; Anne, duchess of Som-
tomb with Gothic canopy. John iJryden, erset mother of Queen Jane Seymour ;
;
bust, erected by Sheffield, diikc of Buck- Lady Jane Cliftbrd INIildred, Avife of Lord
;
ingham. Samuel Butler^ author of Hudi- Burleigh Lady Cecil, monument erected
;
bras, bust witli masks. Ben Jonson, tablet by her husband. Sir Kichard Cecil. Chajiel
with medallion, masks of ComedyandTrag- of Hinry VII., in the south aisle. A magx —
edy. Maiiheiv Prior, sarcophagus with bust, nificent tomb in memory of Mary Queen
surmounted by infants, statues of Thalia of Scots, the beautiful yet unfortunate
and History. Michael Drayton, white mar- queen. Montague, earl of Sandwich, lies
ble slab witii bust, erected by Countess of buried here. Altar tomb to Margaret Beau-
Dorset. Thomas Campbell, poet and found- fort, countess of Kichnuind and mother of
er of the London University. Duke of Henr}' VII. George, first Luke of Albe-
A rrjyle, statue of Fame attired in Roman marle, full-length statue. Lady Catharine
costume also statues of Pallas and Elo-
; '\>'alpole, statue —
esteemed for her many
quence, the Genius of Liberty in bas-relief, virtues ; remarkable for her beauty, wit,
with cornucopia and Magna Charta this : and love of the arts. In the nave is a
monument was executed Ity Eoubiliac. and splendid monument, with figures in gilt
il is said that Canova was particularly brass, to George duke of Bucking-
Villiers,
struck witli the beauty of the statue of ham, and same
his wife Catharine; in the
Eloquence, upon which he gazed for some vault the remains of Mary, duchess of
length of time with Avonder and admiration. Buckingham, are interred. John Sheffield,
David Garrick, monument representing duke of Buckingham, effigy in a Boman
Comedy and Tragedy. Here also are in- i
habit, and at his feet his dudicss, Catha-
terred the remains of Addison, Sheridan, rine, weeping. Among the other tombs
Beaumont Sjyenser, Nicholas Roice, James
, !
are those of Duke de ^lontpensier and
195
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
of Denmark; Henry, prince of Wales. The] of Richard II. and his queen, Anne. Henry
Chapel of Henry YII. is richly ornamented III., Henry Y., Edward III. and his queen,
—here the knights of the Order of Bath Philippa, and Queen Eleanor. Here are
were formerlv installed — the Richmond also the two coronation chairs used at the
who defe;Ued Richard III. of the battle of coronation of the sovereigns of Great Brit-
;
Bosworth Fiald, and who, by his marriage, ain. One of them, with a stone seat, known
',
united the rival houses of York and Lan- formerly in Scotland as Jacob's Pillow, was
;
caster. The white and red roses here show brought from that country by Edward I.
j
tered by a flight of steps. In the centre crushed the Bourbon lilies on the Heights of
of the chapel is situated its leading feature, Abraham at Quebec. In the noi'th transept
the monument of Henry and his queen. the monuments most conspicuous are those
Beneath the nave lie the remains of George of John Philip Kemble, in the character of
II. and his queen, and, although lying in Cato Marquis of Londonderry, whosg' cel-
l
;
different coffins, they may be said to repose ebrated public career is deeply recorded in
in the same, as the inner side of each was history, and whose memory is particularly
removed by the king's request. The tomljs cherished by the people of Ireland, Avho
of royalty in this chapel are very numer- will never forget the statesman of the
ous, including James I., Charles II., etc. legislative union William, earl of Mans-
;
In the Chapel of St. Paul the leading monu- field, V, ith the statues of Justice and Wis-
ments are those of James Watt, the cele- dom A\'illiam Pitt, earl of Chatham, with
[
;
brated engineer Sir Thomas Bromley, the figures of Prudence and Fortitude,
'•
lord chancellor of England, and one of the Peace and Neptune at the base, resting on
judges of Mary Queen of Scots and Lord a dolphin.
; The nave contains the monu-
Bourchier, standard-bearer of Henry Y. at ments of Mrs. Oldfield, the actress Con- ;
the great battle of Agincourt. In the greve. the dramatist Lord Holland, with ;
Chapel of Si. John there are several very the statues of Genius, Science, Literature,
fine monuments : observe Lord Hunsdon's, Charity, and Justice also one erected by ;
chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth Colonel George III. to Major Andre, who was exe-
;
Popham, and William de Colchester. IsHp cuted as a spy by our commander in the
^
Chapel contains a fine monument to the Ab- Revolutionary War. Fox, Percival, Wood-
bot Islip, after whom the chapel is named. worth, and others, are also interred here,
'
The chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and and have monuments fitting their memory.
St. Andrew contain many monuments of Contiguous to Westminster Abbey, and
1
interest, the most interesting of which is also to the Westminster Bridge, arc the
that of Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale, by Rou- Houses of Parliament, or new Palace of
biliac: a most curious design, representing Westminster, a magnificent Gothic struc-
,
a sheeted skeleton starting forth from the ture, covering eight acres of ground, and
marble doors of the monument, aiming his erected on the site of the old houses of
i
dart at his victim she sinks into her ter- Parliament, which were destroyed by fire
;
rified husband's arms, and he endeavors to in 1834. It has a river front of 900 feet,
avert the blow. The other attractive mon- raised upon a terrace of Aberdeen granite,
uments are those of Sir Francis Yere, the ornamented with statues, shields, etc. The
great general of Queen Elizabeth's reign cost of this structure was about $8,000,000.
;
Lord and. Lady Norris, and six sons full- The House of Lords may be visited on
;
length statue of Mrs. Siddons, the celebra- Wednesdays f.nd Saturdays by ticket from
\
ted tragic actress. In tlic centre of the Ab- the lord chamberlain. To hear the debates
.
bey, and nearly surrounded b}^ the different in the House an order from a peer is indis-
I
chapels, is that oi Edward the Cavfessor, the pensable, and in the House of Commons
I
196
London. [ENGLAND.] LOXDOK.
lise; Baptism of Ethelbert, by Dyer Ed- other ladies for whom places had been re-
;
ward in. conferring the Order of the Gar- served in the House of Lords began to ar-
ter on the Black Prince ; and the Prince rive early, and by 1 o'clock the House pre-
of Wales committed to prison for liLs as- sented a spectacle with which surely no
sault on Judge Gascoiu'iie. This hall is other in the world could vie. The '• cross"
100 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 high. There benches, between the bar of the House and
are eighteen statues of barons in niches be- the table, had been arranged for the occa-
tween the windows who signed the Magna sion longitudinally, and a space had been
Charta. In this room the queen sits on railed off on the ministerial side, at the end
the gorgeously gilt and canopied throne nearest the throne, for the accommodation
when she opens the Parliament. In the of the diplomatic lx)dy. The cross bench-
centre i.s the woolsack of the Chancellor of es, the judges' benches between the table
—
England a large, square bag of wool, used and the woolsack, and the front bench on
as a seat, without back or arms, and cov- either side of the House, were left at the
ered with red cloth. The House of Com- disposal of the peers, but the back benches
mons is the same height and width as the on both sides of the gallery were occupied
Lords, but not so long. It is also less b}' peeresses and other ladies of distinction.
gaudily decorated, but still very magnili- The peers, who walked about greeting their
cently. At the north end is the speaker's friends, or who occupied the front or cross
chair. There are galleries along the sides benches, added little but color to the gen-
and ends, one of which, immediately back eral effect for their robes formed an ef-
;
of the speaker, is appropriated to the re- fectual disguise to grace of figure or digni-
porters of newspapers. The original ceil- ty of carriage, and in some cases served
ing was much higher than the present also to disguise even tolerably familiar
one the proportions being bad for hearing, lineaments. While the House was as yet
;
caused an alteration to be made, which was comparatively thin, a few of the arrivals
by no means an improvement. Besides attracted notice, and among these were
these two apartments, the House of Peers Lords Houghton, Cairns, and Lucan, the
and House of Commons, there are numer- Archbishop of York, and the Bishops of St.
I
ous others belonging to the noble structure. David's, Winchester, Gloucester, and Pe-
The Libraries and Committee-rooms are sit- ter borough. The bishops mostly gathered
I
uated on the i iver-front. On the side con- upon the bench in front of the diplomatic
I
tiguous to Westminster Abbey are the Victo- body, and fourteen of the judges took their
ria Toicer, the Foj/al Staircase, St. Stephen's seats on the benches allotted to them. The
Porch and Corridor, and Chancellor s Corri- members of the diplomatic body vied with
dor: At the south end are the Queen's Roh- the ladies in their contribution of gold and
ing-room, the Guard-room, etc. At the north color to the assembly. As 2 o'clock apK
end are located the Clock-tower and the proached the Duke of Cambridge entered
Speaker's Residence. The Queen's Kobing- the House, wearing his robes over his
room is frescoed illustrating the storv of field-marshal's uniform, and by that time
King Arthur, and that of the Peers with sub- rather more than a hundred peers were
jects from the history of the Bible. The present. In a few moments all rose at the
frescoes in the Royal Gallery well repre- entrance of their royal highnesses the
sent events in English history-. The first Princess of Teck and the Princess Chris-
of the series, representing the meeting of tian, who took places towards the ends of
Wellington and Blucher after the battle the woolsack, facing the throne. The
of A\'aterloo, has been contributed by Mr. Prince and Princess of Wales were the
Maclise. 45 feet long by 12 feet high." The next arrivals, and the prince, after speak-
Poets' Hall is to represent scenes from the ing to the princess and some of the peers,
creations of Shakspeare, Milton, Byron, took the chair on the right of the throne,
Scott, Pope, DrA'den, Chaucer, and Spenser. while the Prince-^s of Wales occupied the
The Palace of Westminster is surmounted centre of the woolsack. At 12 minutes
197
London. [ENGLAITD.J London.
the Princesses Louise and Beatrice, and by position at the end of Ludgate Hill, and its
Prince Arthur, who wore a dark green lofty dome may be seen for miles around ;,
rifle uniform. The robe of state had pre- the magnificent deep tones of its great bell,
viously been placed on the throne, and which is onh' tolled on the occasion of a
when the queen seated herself the Princess death in the royal family, but strikes the
Louise arranged its folds around her maj- hours, can be heard far out of the city it ;
esty. The princesses then remained stand- is 10 feet in diameter, and weighs A\ tons.
ing on the steps to the left of the throne, On this site formerly stood another Cathe-
in front of the vacant chair of the royal dral, three or four hundred j'ears previous
I
until Mr. Speaker made his appearance at mortal architect are deposited in the vaults
the bar of the House, followed by the usual j
of the Cathedral, as well as those of Wel-
and often described rush of the more swift [
lington and Nelson, who lie side by side
and active of the members. In the front the last-named reposes in a coffin made of
rank of these was the prime minister, look- the main-mast of the ship " L'Orient,"
ing as if his rest during the vacation had which Nelson captured from the French-
been of no small service to him. As soon it was sent to him by Captain Hallowell
as the noise of the arrival had been hushed, It is said that Nelson had it set up behind
the lord chancellor advanced to the foot of his chair in the cabin of his ship. His out-
the throne, and said that he was command- side coffinwas made originally for Henr}--
ed by her majesty to read the speech, and VIII. The cost of the whole building,
that he would do so in her majesty's own which is of Portland stone, was nearly
words. At this statement there was prob- $4,000,000, and was built from the pro-
ably some general sense of disappointment. ceeds of a tax on the coal brought into the
As the chancellor proceeded, the queen sat port of London during its erection. Th(>
witli ej-es cast down, and almost absolute- principal monuments in St.Paul's are Sir
ly still, a single slight movement of the Joshua Reynolds's, Dr. Johnson's, Nel
fan being all that was at any time percep- son's, Bishop Heber's, Sir John Moore's
tible. Adjoining the building just de- Abercrombie's, and John Howard's. Thr
scribed is Westminster Ilall, teeming with remains of Benjamin West, Sir Joshua Rev
historical associations of kings, queens, nolds, Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Jamet
and princes, and the scene of coronation Barry also lie here. Although St.PauVy
bannuets for ages. Immediately facing the lacks the beaut}' and interest of St. Peter'?'
198
London. [ENGLAND.] London,
and other Continental churches, yet tlie im- uel College, Cambridge. The church v/a»
'
pression produced upon entering is remark- built in the Norman style of architecture,
ably fine. The choir is extremely beauti- but its entrance-gate from Smithficld is a
ful, and rich in magnificent carvings. The handsome specimen of the early English
body of the Cathedral is open at all times style. Hogarth, the painter, was baptized
to the public, admission free but if you here in 1697.
; Immediate!}' opposite St.
wish to have a splendid view of London, Bartholomew's Gate stood the stake where
you must make the ascent to a ball over Bloody Mary burned her victims.
(()00 steps, to visit which and the interme- St. Savior, South wark, founded by Hen-
diate stations it will cost you 3s. 2il. thus, ry VIII. in 1540, built in the early English
:
Hbrar\% 8J. then to the vaults to see Nel- church, both of which have recently been
;
son's monument, 6'/. ;in all about 80 cts. restored. The Lady Chapel Avas used, un-
This might seem an unreasonable charge der the reign of" Bloody Mar\'," as a court
for visiting a church by those who have for the trial of heretics. There is a monu-
seen all the galleries and churches of Rus- ment to John Gower the poet. Several
sia, France, and Austria without expending eminent persons have been buried here,
a sou but we must remember that these among others the poet Massinger, Edmund
;
countries are despotic, and England is. free, Shakspeare the actor (brother to William
and that in free countries the poor have to Shakspeare), Piiilip Henslowe, manager of
pay immensely for their freedom. Service the Globe Theatre and friend of the poet,
on Sundays at 9.45, 3.15, and 7 and week and Fletcher, Beaumont's associate.
;
j
commenced in the 12th century by Hera- topher Wren. The consecration of the
clius. Patriarch of Jerusalem. The Choir Bishop of London takes place here. No-
was finished in 1240, and is in the early tice the fine old Norman crypt on which
style of English architecture. The whole Sir Christopher erected the present edifice.
church was restored at a cost of $350,000 The arches are "bows," hence the name
j
about 1840. This was the church of the of the church. All persons born within
Knights Templar, and monuments of sev- sound of " Bow-l)ells," the bells of this
eral members of that order may be seen in church, are termed " Cockneys.'^ The bells
the triforium of tlie church. Oliver Gold- are ten in number the lar^'cst weighs over ;
smith was buried east of the choir. Tho 53 cwt., and the smallest over 8 cwt. The
incumbent of the temple is called the tower in which they are placed is 235 feet
"Master," and occupies an office of con- high. It was from the site of the balcony
siderable dignity.Hooker, the author, in the present tower that the kings former-
was master for six years.In former years ly sat to see the tournaments and ridings
lawyers received their clients in the round in Cheapside.
of the church, each one occupying his own St. Marii-Ie-Savoy was formerly the chap-
place. Benchers and students only are el of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist.
admitted to the choir. The round is open It is situated between the river and the
to all. The choral services on Sundaj' are Strand was erected during the reign of
;
east end, wbi^^ is ornamented with Gothic ly all the fashionable marriages in London
niches. take place here.
>S'^ James's. Piccadilly, Westminster, is Sir Christopher Wren distinguished him-
one of Sir Christopher Wren's master- self in the designs of churches, having built
pieces as far as the interior is concerned fifty-three since the time of the great fire.
the exterior, however, has little to boast Of the more recent structures, one of the
of in the way of beauty. The church most noticeable is St. Stephen's, of Gothic
is noteworthy for the last restintr- place architecture, and erected at the expense of
of numerous celebrities. Lord Chester- Miss Burdett Coutts. On Sunday a most
field, of world - wide notoriety, and the exquisite choral service is performed. St.
great Earl of Chatham, were both baptized Marylebone, in the Marylebone Eoad, is
here, ;
elaborately finished, and the services here
Notice the marble font, by Gibbons ; also are xerj impressive. Among the Roman
the foliage over the altar, by the same Catholic churches the most important is
sculptor. The present organ, made for St. George's Cathedral, near the Bethlehem
James II., was presented to this church Hospital it is a massive Gothic structure,
:
by his daughter ]Mar\\ Among those bur- but has never been finished, in consequence
ied here were Sir John Malcolm, soldier of a deficient amount of funds. Of the sen-
and diplomat James Gillray, caricaturist
; sation religious establishments, however,
Sir AVilliam Jones, Oriental scholar; Dr. none can compete with that of Spurgeon's
Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope D'Urfey, ; Tabernacle : here the celebrated preacher
dramatist the handsome Earl of Romney
; entices the curious crowd, sometimes num-
(the Henr^' Sydney of De Grammont's bering four or five thousand. Whitehall
Memoirs) and Vanderveldes, senior and
; Chapehvui^ formerly the Banqueting House
junior, the artists. of the palace of Whitehall, and at the time
St. Martin - in - the - Fields (Trafalgar of the fire in 1695 it vras the only portion
Square) was erected between the years of the palace which escaped destruction.
1721 and 1726. The portico is considered a The present edifice was erected in the time
very beautiful piece of architecture. This of James I., and is regarded as a most in-
church is also the burial-place of numer- teresting specimen of Italian architecture.
ous eminent persons, among whom may be The interior is about 113 feet long and 56
mentioned the poet Sir John Davys, the wide the ceiling was painted by Ruhens
;
authors James Stewart and James Smith, in memors- of James I. In front of one
the painters Billiard and Paul Vansomer, of the windows Charles I. sufi"ered death
Nell Guynne, Jack Sheppard, etc. The on the scafibld.
register records the baptism of the cele- The Toicer of London, supposed to have
brated Lord Bacon. been commenced by Julius Ca?sar. Al-
St. Helen s, Bishopsgate Street. The though most writers say that William the
church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Conqueror first commenced it in 1078, still
Helen's was founded in 1216 by William we haA-e the authority of Shakspeare for
Basing, Dean of St. PauPs. There is lit- saying it was begun by the Roman emper-
tle to attract attention here except its an- or. In Richard III., Act iii.. scene 1,
tiquity, and the tombs of Sir John Crosby, Prince Edward says,
Sir Thomas Gresham, and others. " I do not lik^ the Tower, of any place :
and was one of the churches which escaped Gloster. lie did, my gracious lord, bei^in tlia.
plac?,
the great tire. It is interesting as the bur- WTiich, since, succeeding ages have re-edified.
ial place of Milton Fox, of martyr noto-
; Prince. Is it upon record^? or else reported
riety, was also buried here. The register Successively from age to age he built it ?
records the marriage of the Protector Crom-
Bvckiiwham. Upon record, mygracious lord.'
well, and the burial of Defoe in the neigh- This celebrated fortress is situated at the
borhood. eastern extremity of the city, and is sepa-
St. George's, Hanover Square, built by rated from the thickly populated portion
John James at the commencement of the of the city by what is called Tower Hill.
ISth century. It contains some fine paint- It covers about twelve acres of ground, and
ed windows brought from Mechlin. Xear- is surrounded bv a moat, which, since 1843,
200
[ENGLAND.] London.
Gate, through ^vhich persons of state were ferent times in the Tower, and here his son
conveyed in boats after their trial. "With- Carew was born. The block upon which
in the famous structure are numerous ,
Lord Lovat was beheaded is also shown.
buildings, including the Barraclcs, Armory,
I
The Lion Tower, on the right as you enter,
Jewel- liouse, White Tower, St. Peter's was for GOO years the royal menagerie the :
in which the Lady Jane Grey was conllned The Jeircl-hnuse contains all the crown-
;
'
the Beauchanip Tower, the prison of Anne jewels of England they are inclosed in
!
;
Boleyn, and numerous other buildin,:.'s. In an immense case, around which you walk
!
addition to the Tower's original use as a and listen to the description. Prominent
;
fortress, it was the residence of the mon- among them is the crown made for the cor-
archs of England down to the time of Eliza- onation of Queen Victoria, at an expense
beth, and a prison for state criminals and of about $600,000.
;
Among the profusion
numerous are the kings, queens, warriors, of diamonds is the large ruby worn by the
and statesmen who have not only been im- Black Prince the crown made for the cor-
;
prisoned, but nuuxlered within its walls. onation of Ciiarles II. the crown of the ;
The histories of Lady Jane Grey, Catharine Prince of Wales and that of the late Prince
Hown\d, Anne Boleyn, Sir Walter IJaleigh, Consort crown made for the coronation of
;
Lord^William Kussell, tlie Protector Som- the queen of James II., also her ivor\' scep-
erset, Sir Thomas More, William Wallace, tre. The coronation spoon, and bracelets,
and King John of France, do they not live ro\'al spurs, swords of Mercy and Justice,
in the remembrance of every historical are among the other jewels. Here, too, is
reader ? These old towers are very inter- the silver-gilt baptismal font, in which is
esting, but only a few of them are open to deposited the christening water for the roy-
the public. In addition to the historic al children, and the celebrated Koh-i-noor
points of interest which a'ou visit, you will diamond, the present property of Queen
be conducted through the Armories and Victoria, and tlie object of great interest at
Jewel-house, for which you must purchase the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park in 1851.
tickets, price one English shilling; and, It formerly beloni^ed to Runjeet Singh,
after waiting until a party is collected, chief of Lahore, and was called the ''Mount-
which is done every half hour, a warder, ain of Light.*'
dressed as a yeoman of the time of Henry
VIII., will show you through the Armory, The Biitish Museum is a magnificent
and then intrust you to the care of a female, edifice, erected between 1828 and 1854, in
who Avill describe the use and value of the the Grecian style of architecture. It is
regalia in the Jewel-house. situated in Great Russell Street, Blooms-
The Horse Armory^ built in 1826. is an bury, and is open to the public Mondays,
extensive gallerv, in which is a finely-ar- Wednesdays, and Fridays. It is closed
ranged collection of armor used from the from the 1st to the 7th of January, the 1st
13th to the 18th centur}-, including suits to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of
made for different distinguished person- September inclusive also on Ash- Wednes- ;
ages among these is that woni by the day, Good-Friday, and on Christmas days.
;
Prince of Wales, son of James I. Henry The hours are from 10 to 4 during January,
;
VIII. Dudley, earl of Leicester Charles February, November, and December; from
; ;
I.; and John of Gaunt a suit worn at the 10 to 5 during March, April, September,
;
Eglinton tournament, in 1839, by the Mar- and October and from 10 to 6 during May,
;
quis of Waterford. From the Horse Ar- June, July, and August also in summer, ;
Tower, which are 14 feet thick. The room named is closed on Saturdays.
2ai
London. [ENGLAND.] LONDOiJ:
A
catalogue should be purchased on en- of the capitulation being that all objects of
tering (price one ehilling). art collected by the French Institute in
The British Museum ma}' be said to Egypt should be delivered to the English.
have been founded by Sir Hans Sloane, Notice specialh' the Elgin Marbles, so
who made an offer to the British Parlia- called from Lord Elgin, who, while embas-
ment of his then large library (1753) for '
forty thousand dollars Phigalean ^Marbles, ; creasing at the rate of seventy-five thou-
ninety thousand Blaca's collection, val-
; sand volumes yearly. Among the 1G50
I
ebrated Rosttta Stone, which furnished Dr. This museum has the best zoological col-
Young with the clew for deciphering the lection in the world. In the gallery of
Egyptian hieroglyphics the inscription it ; natural history is the skeleton of a goril-
contains is three times repeated in hiei-o- la, purchased from M. Du Chaillu. The
glyphics in a written character called De- MSS. rooms, print rooms, rooms devoted to
motic, and in the Greek language the ; mineralogy and geology, Avill all be exam-
?^tone i$ three feet long, two feet five inches ined with great interest.
iTuad, and about ten inches thick. It was The Xalional Picture Gallery occupies
found near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile the north side of Trafalgar Square, was
by M. Bouchard, a French officer, and came founded in 1824, and the present building,
into the hands of the English at the capit- which cost $500,000, was finished in 1838.
ulation of Alexandria, one of the articles Although not so large as many galleries
202
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
on the Continent, it contains numerous I and embroideries, will well repay a visit
gems. The Ko)'al Academy, which for- of a whole day and evening. (You can ob-
merly occupied the eastern ])ortion of this tain a good dinner at the restaurant, and
building, was removed, in 18G9, to Burling- the galleries are lighted at night.) There
ton Gardens. is an .1 rt Lihruri/^ composed principally of
|
ber and the month of October it is closed 1G2 in number, and the Cartoons of Raph-
to the public. The National Gallery owes I ael,from Hampton Court. There is also
much of its importance to the numerous \
the large and valuable private collection
bequests of artists and private gentlemen. I
belonging to Mrs. Henry T. Hope, loaned
Mr. Vernon alone bequeathed 162 pictures, to the museum. The different collections
known as the Vernon Gallery these, how-
;
'
new building
were arranged in the present
ever, have lately been removed to the Notice specially the Prince Al-
in 1869.
Turner collection. 'Ihe Kensington Mu- bert Gallery, which contains many objects
\
gallery; many valuable gems have been theatre for the delivery of lectures.
purchased for it. The number of pictures Among the Sheepshanks collection,
1
Pope Julius n. Correggio's Holy Fam- The Vernon collection contains many
I
of Paris and Rape of the Sabines. Muril- toons by Raphael were executed in 1514
lo's Vision of a Knight, and Holy Family. by command of Leo X., as patterns for
Paul Veronese's Family of Darius. Da tapestries in the Sistinc Chapel. The sub-
I
Vinci's Christ disputing in the Temple. jects are: Christ's Charge to Peter: the
Titian, Guido, Velasquez, Salvator Rosa, Death of Ananias; Peter and John at the
Rembrandt, and others, are also represent- Beautiful Gate; Healing the Lame Man;
ed. The Waterloo Vase, which stands in Paul and Barnabas at Lystra Ely mas the ;
the hall, was captured from a French ship Sorcerer struck Blind Paul Preaching at ;
on her way from Carrara to Paris. Athens, and the Miraculous Draught of
The rooms are eleven in number, but a Fishes.
large property having recently been pur- The Xdtioii'd Portrait (,'allen/ has been
chased in the rear of the gallery, a new removed to this museum temporarily. Ex-
and more commodious building will soon amine the Mejirick Collection of Armor;
be erected. also the Afiofetim of Patents. j
South Kensington Museum^ Brompton, The Boi/(il Albert Hall of Arts was
was founded in 1852 by the prince consort, opened by the queen in 1871. It is de-
1
and built on property purchased with the signed for public meetings, concerts, and
;
surplus funds derived from the exhibition balls, and is capable of holding 15,000 peo-
of 1851. Admission free, Mondays, Tues- ple. It is built in the form of a circus. 200
days, and Saturdays, from 10 A.M. to 10 feet by 175, and is beautifully decorated.
]
P.M. Students' days, Wednesday, Thurs- The queen laid the corner-stone ^lay 20th,
day, and Friday, from 10 to 4 on these 1868.
; It is situated a short distance from
days sixpence admission fee. This large the Kensington ^Museum.
and wonderfully interesting collection of Sonne's ^fuse1lm, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields.
paintings, sculptures, jewels, porcelain, A most interesting collection of art. It is
arms and armor, carvings in ivory, wood, open to visitors on Wednesdays, Thurs-
and stone, ornamental furniture, tapestries, days, and Fridays, from 10 to 4 during the
203
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
The East India Museum, India Office, I tic i-elics of Sir John Franklin. Notice the
Downing Street, open to the public from !
stuffed figure, and read the curious his-
10 to 4. It contains not only a curious '
tor}^ of the dog '• Bob," which made the
collection of Oriental dresses, instruments, ! campaign of the Crimea.
idols, trinkets, etc.. but a collection of the Museum of Practical Geology, Jermyn
chief natural productions of India, with I
Street. Open gratuitously everj' day, ex-
specimens of the arts and manufactures of cept Sunday and Friday, from 10 to 4.
that country. This valuable museum, which is a school
The R(yyal College of Surgeons, Lincoln's- of mines, was opened in 1851. Its collec-
Inn-Fields, Admittance by order from a tion illustrates the mineral products of
member, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Great Britain and her colonies also the ;
building. Among these is a monstrous foe- best time to visit it. Doors open from 10
tus, found in the abdomen of a lad of sev- to C, and from 8 to 12. Admittance, one
I
tains many fine paintings by Wilkie, Te- in proportion. Days of admission, Mon-
niers, Velasquez, Correggio, and others days, Tuesdays. Thursdays, and Fridays,
among two full-length portraits of
others, from 10 to 5. Cards of admission may be
George IV., by Wilkie full-length por-
: obtained at Messrs. Smith's, 137 New Bond
traits of the different sovereigns of Europe; Street.
two of Napoleon Van Am burg and the
; Grosvenor House, the town residence of
Lions, by Landseer Christ on the Mount
; the Marquis of Westminster, is situated in
of 01ives,by Correggio. This picture, Avhich Upper Grosvenor Street. The house,
is painted on panel, -nas captured in the though handsome, is principally noted for
carriage of Joseph Bonaparte and restored containing the celebrated Grosvenor collec-
to Ferdinand VIL, Avho presented it to the tion of pictures, most of which were col-
duke. The celebrated Signing the Peace lected by Richard, first Earl of Grosvenor.
of Westphalia is also here. Admission, only by order from the mar-
Stafford House is probably the finest pri- quis, from 2 to 5 during the months of
vate mansion in England. It was orig- May and June. Rubens is here well rep-
inally built for the Duke of York, son of resented.
George III,, but was sold to the Duke of Devonshire House, Piccadilly Montague ;
7 ft. 8 in. long by 5 ft. 2 in. wide, and 7 ft. clerks are constantly empkn^ed here, at
j
high. The upper portion is adorned with' salaries ranging from $250 to $6000 per
bas-reliefs in bronze, representing old Tem-( annum. The buildings are rather low, and
pie Bar, a Koyal Procession into the City, peculiar in appearance they, with the
;
the Thanksgiving for the Recovery of the i courts, include an area of about eight acres.
Prince of Wales, and the City insignia, with Many of the offices are open to visitors, but
an inscription recording the object of the me- the private ones can only be visited by an
morial. Upon the base is a structure, also order from a director the most interest-
:
oblong, supported b}' pilasters at its angles. ing apartments are the bullion rffice, weigh-
The two wider sides, those looking north j
ing office, treasury, and the ajiartment
and south, have niches in which are stat- where the bank-notes are printed here is :
isa statue of the .^merican b&nker, George I dollars, half of which tlie mayor pays ; the
Peabody, seated in a chair it is hy the
; other half is paid by the two sheriffs.
'
American sculptor, Story. Up one iii<rht The library of Guildhall contains 30,000
of steps in the eastern portion of the build- !
volumes.
ing are Lloyds Subscription Rooms, where I General Post-ojflce, St. ]\Iartin's-ie-Grand,
"merchants most do congregate." All! is a spacious building, in Ionic style, with
ness in the city, are members, and here is etc., in different parts of the United King-
discussed all news, political, foreign, com- dom about 000 millions of letters are de-
;
—
|
mercial, or local. The number of sub- livered annually 150 millions in London
'
called the Egyptian Hall, and here, on Liverpool, which is the next principal city,
i
Easter Monday, the lord mayor gives a only collects one fifth as much as London.
;
banquet and ball to some three hundred Some 2400 cleiks are employed, at an ex-
;
elected from the board of aldemien every Somerset House is situated in the Strand,
29th of September, serving for one year and is a very large and handsome edifice.
only his salary is $40,000, but he gener- It was erected on the site of the Palace of
; ;
ally spends much more. The lord maj'ors, the Protector Somerset, and is used for
;
in all city celebrations, take precedence of government offices, such as the A udit Of.
members of the royal family. The entire fee, office of the Registrar General, the In-
city is under his charge. The '"Mayor's land Bevtnue Office, and a branch of the
Show" has ceased since 1867 to attract Admiralty, the principal office being in
much attention. Now, on the day he is Whitehall.
installed in office (9th of November), the Burlington House, in Piccadilly, formerly
procession starts from Guildhall at a trot, the residence of the Lords of Burlington.
and, escorted by cavalry, passes tlirough It was purchased by the government in
Cheapside, Ludgate Hill, Fleet Street, and 1854 for seven hundred thousand dollars.
Strand to Westminster Hall, where he is The whole has been reconstructed on the ;
sworn in by one of the barons of the Ex- site of the gardens have been erected the
chequer, and then returns by the same //r;// o/'-S'ci'eHce, containing apartments for
route to preside over the mayoralty dinner all learned societies, the new academy ex-
at Guildhall. hibition rooms of the Royal Academy of
Guildhall is situated at the foot of King I
Art. In addition to the council-room, of-
Street, Cheapside. The principal hall, 1
fices, and schools of drawing, there are
Avhich is used for public meetings of the thirteen halls where the annual exhit)ition
j
ous portraits and statues; in tliis hall the living artists opens the first Monday in
i
•^layor gives his inauguration dinner, at !May, and is open for three months. No
which the government ministers and great one artist can send more than eight pic-
i
law officers of the crown attend. The tures an amateur only one. Pictures are
;
j
banquet usually costs over ten thousand forwarded one month before the opening
|
207
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
of the exhibition. All pictures are exam- are all elected yearly, each member paying
ined by a council, which decides whether fifty dollars per annum members are
;
the work is entitled to a place iu the exhi- elected by ballot by a committee of thirty,
bition. which is also elected yearly. Foreigners
The University of London is also in the must reside in England live years before
gardens of Burlington House. It was they are eligible to election. A bankrupt
founded in 1837, and ranks lirst amonc; the can not be elected unless he pays one third
prominent establishments of the metrop- of his debts. All the stock transactions
olis; the building is one of the handsomest \
of the kingdom are carried on in this estab-
modern edifices in Loudon. This univer- lishment. The usual commission charged
sity has nothing to do with the business by a broker on the purchase or sale of
of education, it being established only for stocks is one eighth per cent.
tlie purpose of conferring degrees on grad- The Schools, Colleges, and Learned Socie-
uates of different London colleges. ties of London are very numerous The :
The Royal Mint, on Tower Hill, will well Royal Academy of Arts, of Music, Society
repay a visit to Avitness the powerful yet of Antiquarians, the Astronomical and Lin-
delicate machiner}^ for stamping and cut- ncean Societies, Royal Institution of British
i
High Treasurer, who is the prime minister Government School of Design, and City of
of England; his salary is $25,000 per an- London School.
num. All the great money transactions The Hospitals of London are numerous,
of the state are arranged here. In these well conducted, and richly endowed. In
buildings are also the Foreign Office. Privy addition to Greenwich Hospital, mentioned
Council Offxe, Home Office, and Colonial Of- in "Excursion in the Vicinity of London,"
fice. the principal are, Bethlehem Hospital, St.
I
Horse Guards, at Whitehall, the head- Thomas Hospital, St. Bartholomew's Hospi-
i
British army, who has a salary of about The Foundling Hospital, in Guilford
$17,300 per annum. The archway through Street. This establishment should be vis-
the building is only opened for royal per- ited on Sundays after morning service,
sonages when entering St. James's Park, when the children are at dinner.
on each side of which a cavalry soldier There are numerous other hospitals and
stands sentrj^ from 10 to 4. The offices of charitable institutions, amounting to over
the quartermaster general and adjutant one thousand in number, of which we can
general are also here. Officers' commis- take no note. We must, hoAvever, allude
sions are bought and sold in England. to the magnificent charities of our coun-
There is a prospect now of the rule being tryman, the late George Peabody, who in
abolished. The price of a lieutenant col- 1884 gave $750,000 to build lodging-houses
onel'scommission in the Guards is $86,250 for the poor of London, augmented aft-
an ensign of the same, $6000 a lieuten- ; erward to $2,500,000. A portion of this
ant colonel's commission in the line is amount has been expended in purchasing
$22,500; an ensign's commission in the i
land and building model lodging-houses
line, $2250. A
private Life Guardsman for the poor. The buildings are \\\q sto-
has about 50 cents per day in the line,
; ries high,and are located at Westminster,
28 cents. Islington, Shadwell, Chelsea, and Spital-
Stock Exchange, Capel Court, built in fields. The rooms are let at from $1 25
1853,-immediateW in front of the Bank; per week for three rooms, to 62 cts. for one
the members are about 900 in number, and room. The trustees of the gift are the
208
LONDOX. [ENGLAND.] London.
American embassador, the Earl of Derby, sewer, which empties itself some distance
Sir Stafford Northcote, J. S. Morgan, Esq., below the city, and alongside runs the Met-
and Sir Curtis Laiupson. ropolitan Railway.
The principal Bridfjes of London are llolborn Viaduct is a remarkably fine
London Biidye, luilt of granite between specimen of engineering. It was intend-
1825 and 1831, at a cost of ten millions of ed to relieve the traffic which passed over
dollars. It is 900 feet long and 54 wide. Hoi born Hill. Was opened by the queen
The lamp-posts are made from cannon in person in 1860. It crosses Farringdon
taken during the Peninsular War. Over Street (a great thoroughfare), resting on
100,000 persons pass over this bridge ev- red granite piers.
ery twenty-four hours. It is the lowest The principal Docks of London are St.
bridge, or that nearest the sea. Catharine's Docks, situated near the Tov--
The next in order is the Southeastern er, covering an area of twenty-four acres,
Railway Bridge, by which Charing Cross eleven of which are water. The cost of
is connected with Cannon Street terminus. this immense undertaking was over eight
Blackfriars Bridge, constructed between millions of dollars. Twelve hundred houses
18U4 and 1869, of iron, 1270 feet long and were pulled down to make room for them.
75 wide. 1
I
London Docks cover ninety acres, thirty-
Near to this is the London. Chath :m, and four of which are water, the rest being
Dover Bridge, constructed for that railroad. warehouses and vaults. The entire cost
Hnngerford Biidge, built of iron in 1863 ^
was over twenty millions of dollars. The
iov the CI)aring- Cross Railway station. : East India Docks cover an area of thirt}'-
Foot passengers alone cross. ''
'
the lines on the north with those on the bridge, Ipswich, etc. From this station
south of the Thames (see p. 67). also depart the Continental Express trains
The Thames Embankment is a magnifi- in connection with the steamers for the
cent structure, consisting of a hewn gran- Continent via Harwich. Having direct rail
ite wall protecting an elegant quay re- communication with all parts of England,
claimed from the river. This promenade it possesses greater facilities for passenger
is upward of one liundred feet wide, ex- traffic than any other station in the world.
tending from the Westminster Bridge to The Great Western Railway Company's
Blackfriars. Beneath this is the principal station, which, with its beautiful hotel, was
209
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
completed in 1856, is also well worth a vis-j Reform Club is a large and elegantly-
it: but one must come in or go out of this| finished building, situated next to the Carl-
station (the Paddington) if intending to ton Club was founded in 1830 by the Lib- ;
visit the leading objects of interest in En- eral members of both houses of Parliament;
j
gland or Wales. Travelers are recom-! contains 1000 members, in addition to mem-
mended to take this line, the most direct bers of Parliament. It acquired a great
if visiting Oxford. Leamington,
Warwick, reputation for its cooking. The celebra-
Stratford'-on-Avon, Bath, Bristol, North or ted Soyer was for a long time its mmire
South Wales, Exeter, Torquay. Plymouth, dilute.
and West of England generally. It has Army and Xavy Club, also in Pall Mall,
a reputation for carefulness and general an exquisitely-finished house it hr.s 1500 ;
than in any other city in the world. They nearly all of whom are v.ealthy. It is sit-
'
are nearly all situated in Pall Mall or St. uated in St. James's Street, and numbers
James's Street, Avhich locality is usually 550 members. The arms of the club arc
called '"Club Land." They are about very sinjjular: the supporters are two
thirty-one in number, and average from knaves of clubs, and the crest a hand shak-
I
two thousand to live hundred members. ing a dice-box. They were designed by
I
Athenaum Club (an elegant building) is Horace Walpole and George Selwyn. The
situated in Pall Mall, This is essentially wealth of its members may be inferred
a literary and scientific club. The mem- from the dinner thev gave. June 20, 18?4,
bers are chosen by ballot one black ball to the allied sovereigns of Europe, then in
:
in ten excludes. Number of members, England, Avhich cost fifty thousand dollars.
1200. Entrance fee. 8130 annual fee, $37.
; Three Aveeks later they gaA-e a dinner to
The Carlton Club is situated on the south the Duke of Wellington, Avhich cost nearly
side of Pall Mall, and is the most beautiful j
thirteen thousand dollar.^.
club-house in London. It contains 800 I United Service Club, situated in Pall
members, members of the
in addition to Mall, contains 1500 members. OflRcers arc
House of Lords and Commons. Entrance not eligible for election under the rank of
fee, .580 annual fees, $50.
; I colonel or captain in the nav}'. The club-
Conservative Club, situated on the west I house is commodious and elegant.
side of St. James's Street. This club was j
Garrick Clnh, situated in New King
opened in 1845, and cof t .^366,000. Its in- Street, Covent Garden, Avas founded in
terior is most elegant and commodious. It I 1831 by gentlemen interested in the drama
has 1500 members. Entrance fee, $181
I
— —
authors, actors, and others and named
annual fees, $42. ! after David Gamck, the actor. The initi-
Carlton Junior is also situated in Pall '
210
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
University Club, situated in Pall Mall, the great horse-market of London. Sales
contains 1000 —
members five hundred from take place every Monday. The Jockey
Oxford and five hundred from Cambridge. Club have a subscription -room here;
Entrance fee, $1;;0 annual fee, $30.
;
days of meeting, Monday and Thursday.
Oxford and Cambridge Club, situated in
Pall ^Mall, has five hundred members from
each university.
The other clubs are the Alpine, Boodle's,
City of London, Cocoa, Guards, Gresham,
New City, Xavcd and Military, Oriental,
Travelers, Uni/yn, New Unirersity, Whit-
tinyton, Portland,and A rlinyton.
The Markets of London are numerous,
and M-ell supplied with the staples of life.
They lack, however, the multiplicity of
vegetables found in a New York or Paris
market. The principal is the 3feiropolitan TTTEATRES.
Cattle-market, opened by Prince Albert in Tlieatres in London are very numerous,
1855, It covers thirty acres of ground, like other places of amusement. They are
half of which is inclosed, furnishing ac- some thirty-five in number, situated in dif-
commodation for over fifty thousand cattle, ferent parts of town.
sheep, calves, and pigs. The building cost Covent Garden ( Opera House ), Bow
about two and a quarter millions of dollars. Covent Garden, the finest theatre in
Street,
The average weekly sales here are, cattle London, comfortably holding 2000 persons.
3500, and sheep 35,000. Royal Italian Opera during the "season,"
The Metropolitan Meat-market is situated promenade concerts in autumn, and panto-
in Smithfield. It is a handsome building mimes in winter. The opera troupe is the
of red briek, in the Renaissance style. Its finest in the world, six or seven of the very
roof is of iron and glass. It covers about prime donne fulfilling engagements at
first
three and a half acres of ground. There is the same time. Seats from 2^. to £1 55.
also a poultry-market attached. It cost Evening dress de rigueur.
one million dollars, and was finished in Theatre Royal, Drtiry Lane, Catherine
1.S68. Smithfield Market is noted for the Street, the oldest and one of the finest,
historical importance of the spot: numer- holding 3800 persons. Drama, extrava-
ous martyrs were here burned at the stake ganza, vaudeville, and fiirce. Prices, 55.
Wallace, the " hero of Scotland,"' was also to Is.
executed here. It was noted for its jousts Theatre Royal, Haymarket, holds over
and tournaments. 2000 persons. High-class comedy, princi-
Billingfgxte, noted as the great fish-mar- pally. Mr. Sothern performed Lord Dun-
ket of Loudon. It is situated below Lon- dreary here for years to crowded houses.
don Brid j;e, on the left bank of the Thames, Lyceum Theatre, "Wellington Street, one
and has for nearly two hundred years been of the most recherche and comfortable in
the fish-market of the city. The coarse- London. Henry Irving is the manager
ness of the language used by the occupants and leading actor. '•
The Corsican Broth-
of this market has become so proverbial ers," "Romeo and Juliet," "The Cup,"
th:it, wherever the English tongue is spok- "Othello," etc., have in late years been
en, profane and vulgar language is termed given with artistic and financial success.
'''Billing.^gate.'' Dress circle, 6.s'. ; stalls, IO5.
Coveiit Garden Market is the great vege- Alhambra Theatre, Leicester Square,
table, fruit, and herb market of the city. burned down in December, 1882, and re-
(See Covent Garden Square.) built in 1883. Comic opera, ballet, ex-
Leadenhall MarkH, situated in Grace- travaganza, etc. Stalls, 6s.
church Street, noted for its poultry, butter, Opera Comiqtte. Strand. Comic opera,
vegetables, etc. Also Farringdon Market comedy, etc. is. to 10s. ;
to 10s. !
contains exotics reaching to a height of 60
Gaiety Theatre, Strand. Comedy and feet. An inclosed conservatory, twice as
burlesque 5s. to lOs.
; I
large as the palm-house, is now being con-
Olympic Theatre, Drury Lane. Drama 1
structed, and a lake is being formed which
and burlesque 5s. to 7s. 6d.
; j
communicates with the Thames by a tun-
Adelphi Theatre, 411 Strand. Chiefly j
nel under the river terrace. This delight-
melodrama. ful spot is open to the public every after-
Globe Theatre, Newcastle Street, Strand. noon, Sundays included.
Principally opera-bouffe. It would be well to endeavor to be in Lon-
St. James's Theatre, King Street, St. don in the early part of J une, to witness
James's. French plays, and comedies. the "Derby Day." The races take place
E'yyal Strand Theatre, Strand. Opha- at Epsom. The houses of Parliament are
hmiffe ; 5s. to 10s. always closed on the day of the races, and
Court Th'-atre, Shane Square. Tragedy, a general " Fourth of July" pervades the
drama, and comedy 6s. to 10s.
; city. To visit the course there are several
The Vaudeville, 404 Strand the Eoyal ways. If with a part}', say six persons, by
;
Comedy, Panton Street, Haymarket the all means go in "style" coach and four,
; —
Criterion, Piccadilly; the Savoy, Beaufort with outriders. This, with your ticket to
Buildings ; Toole's (ex-Folly), King Will- the stand, Avill cost from $10 to $12 each.
iam Street, Charing Cross the Imperial, Of course, you will carry a lunch with you.
; ;
Tothill Street ;the Avenue, Northumber- If alone, you may take your chance in a
j
land Avenue ; the Novelty, Surrey, New public conveyance, or take the train for
I
others complete the number. On the Ascot Cup Day, the Prince and
—
I
Music-halls, etc. There are numerous Princess of Wales, and other members of
other places of amusement for young men the roA-al familj^, visit the course. Ascot
who wish to see "life," such as the Troca- is five miles from Windsor, and the road
dero (no dancing), close to the Criterion: thereto, through Windsor Great Park, is
,
Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, near Smith- unfortunately destroyed by fire, in the short
field bead-Meat Market. It is now a Ma- space of only two hours, on the 9th of June
sonic head-quarters. It was here that the following. During that brief fortnight
first magazine was started (the Gentleman's the Alexandra Palace attracted 124,124
Magazine, a complete set of which may be —
visitors a number more than sufficient to
seen on the premises) and here Dr. John-
;
convince the directors that it could not
son, Goldsmith, Cave, Garrick, and kindred fail to be permanently successful. They
spirits used to assemble and debate. John- accordingly set themselves energeticall}'-
son's chair and other relics may be seen at to work to restore the building, with such
the restaurant. The Gate is 700 j^ears old. improvements as could be devised to avoid
Kew Gardens, 40 minutes from Waterloo, a similar catastrophe. On the first of
is also a delightful spot it can be reached
: May, 1875, the Palace was reopened by
in summer by steamer every half hour, or the Lord Mayor of London with a state
bj^ omnibuses from the city. The most at- ceremonial ; and in the six months follow-
tractive object at Kew is the celebrated ing, to the end of October, it was visited
Botanic Gardens, extending over 75 acres by 1,307,857 persons, and a balance of
of ground. The plants are of the rarest £23,024 18s. 4i. carried to the credit of
quality, arranged and labeled by Sir the revenue account.
212
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
Tlie extreme length of the Palace is 945 by Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, the Moore
I
feet, with a width of 450 feet. It is sub- and Burgess Minstrels, and other popular
stantially built of white and colored bricks, 1
favorites, together with attractive ballets,
with imposing facades both to the north have also drawn many visitors to the Palace.
and the south. At each angle of the build- It is impossible to enumerate in the lim-
ing is a lofty square tower, surmounted by ited sjiace at our disposal all the attractions
a Mansard roof, which forms a great water of the Alexandra Palace. A magnificent
reservoir; and each of these great tanks is I
collection of oil paintings and water-color
capable of storing 1G,000 gallons of water 1
drawings, British and foreign, is exhibited
while at the angles of the great central in a series of splendid and well-lighted pict-
hall there are four other reservoirs, with I
ure-galleries. Space is devoted to the ex-
a capacity of 7000 gallons each the whole: i
hibition of choice works of art-manufact-
of these being constantly supplied by steam- I
ure by the most eminent producers of the
pumps from the reservoirs of the New Kiver j
countr}-- and there is an attractive bazaar
;
Company near the Palace. for the sale of elegant and pleasing works,
The central hall, above mentioned, ex- ; from the most costly to the cheapest kind.
tends 386 feet from north to south, by 184 In connection with this portion of the Pal-
feet from east to west, and is richly dec- ace may be mentioned models of a modern
orated. It has an arched roof, supported Moorish and a modern Egyptian house,
by columns, at the bases of which are a with representations of the inhabitants in
series of life-size statues of the kin^s and I
full costume, and all the actual furniture
queens of England, from William the Con- and fittings of these interesting dwellings.
queror to Queen Victoria, in the costumes At the Avest end of the building is a great
of the periods in which they reigned, elab- conservatory of tropical plants, with a
orately colored and gilt. At the north end splendid aviarvof British and foreign birds
of this hall is a spacious orchestra, with a and adjacent to these a spacious room is
magnificent and powerful organ and here ; devoted to the exhibition of the finest col-
musical celebrations on the largest scale lection of ancient arms and armor now in
are carried out with great effect. England. This collection, which is most
Adjacent to the central hall will be found, extensive and cornplete. was formed by the
to the east, a theatre, accommodating 3000 late Lord Londesborough, and is exhibited
visitors, in which dramatic and operatic by permission of the present peer. There
performances are regularly given, and a is also a marvelous collection of specimens
grand pantomime at Christmas and to ; of natural history, which it has been the
the west a concert-room of corresponding labor of a lifetime on the part of Dr. Whit-
dimensions. An orchestral band of the field, of St. Thomas's Hospital, to collect.
highest excellence is permanently main- An extensive collection of works in sculpt-
tained. During the summer season there ure, both ancient and modern, adorns the
is a first-rate military band, and an efiicient various courts and avenues of the building.
and highly trained chorus is at the con- On the south side is a reading-room, lux-
stant service of the company and, with
; uriously appointed, and supplied with an
these important aids, the best works of almost unlimited number of newspapers,
Handel, Mozart, Auber, Bellini, Gounod, magazines, and other periodicals, together
Balfe, Wallace, Offenbach, and other com- with every appliance for reading and writ-
posers, have been most efhciently rendered. ing, chess tables, and other accommoda-
Handel's oratorio, "Esther," has been most tion. Connected with this department it
successfully performed for the first time in is intended to form a school of art, science,
the present century. Sir ]\Iichael Costa, and literature and already classes for the
;
Sir Julius Benedict, Mr. H. Weist Hillj study of vocal and instrumental music, un-
and Mr. Robert Wheatley have most ablv i
der most eminent professors, have been suc-
conducted these musical displays. In the cessfully established.
theatre the standard plays of Shakspeare, j
One of the most important departments
Sheridan, Goldsmith, Colman, etc.. as well of the Alexandra Palace is that devoted to
as those of more modern authors, have been refreshment^, under the alile management
represented by the best actors on the Lon- of ^lessrs. Bertram & Roberts. Within
don boards. The minor attractions offered the building are a number of admirablv
216
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
fitted buffets for thesnpply of light re- dimensions affords the means of giving
freshments. Large rooms are devoted to equestrian, acrobatic, and similar perform-
hot and cold luncheons and dinners and ; ances on a large scale. Near the west
many rooms are appropriated to private end of the Palace a Japanese village has
dinners, which are served in the best style. been erected of Japanese materials by na-
There is also, on an upper story facing the tive worlimen, and here, as well as in the
Alexandra Park, a grand dining- saloon, Palace, Japanese goods of undoubted au-
200 feet by 55 feet, capable of accommo- thenticity and excellence are exhibited and
dating 1000 guests, and here, October 25, sold. Near this an unequaled collection
1875, the great banquet to the survivors of agaves, cacti, and other tropical plants
of the famous Balaklava charge was given. are exhibited in a house speciall}- construct-
In the park there is another banqueting- ed for the purpose. In the same neighbor-
long by 54 feet wide.
hall, 195 feet hood is a secluded portion of the grounds,
The Palace stands upon a lofty hill, com- formerly belonging to a large house, now
manding a most magnificent panoramic pulled down, and called "The Grove ;" and
view, and extending over many hundreds here the lover of Nature may find the
of miles. The Crystal Palace and the highest possible gratification in the con-
dome of St. Paul's Cathedral are clearly templation of cedars, hollies, laurels, firs,
visible to the south on a clear day ; to the chestnuts, elms, oaks, and other noble trees
west the heights of Hampstead and High- — many of them of great age, but still in
gate form a most attractive picture while
; their pristine vigor. Minor amusements
to the north and east Middlesex, Hertford- are provided without stint for juvenile vis-
shire, and E>sex unfold the beauties of itors and, in fact, the tastes and comfort
;
English landscape. The park which sur- of from infancy to old age, have been
all,
rounds the Palace comprises 200 acres of anxiously cared for by the promoters of
land, which has been most ably laid out this undertaking. There is an excellent
in roads and drives by which visitors can gymnasium, free to all comers, and jaunt-
reach the Palace with ease, and tastefuUy i
archery meetings, and a swimming-bath ropolitan cabs and cab-horses, from its nov-
of noble proportions has been provided. elty and excellence, attracted considerable
To the north of the Palace a spacious lake notice. The visit of the Band of the Garde
affords accommodation for boating, under Republicaine of France (the "Guides")
most efficient management and here a wa- added much to the amount raised in En-
;
ter village, designed b}^ Dr. Dresser, is a pe- gland in aid of the sufferers from the great
culiar feature of attraction. From the sum- inundations in France.
mit of this fairy-like structure, which rises In addition to the extensive area occu-
to a height of about 100 feet, one of the pied b}' the Palace and devoted to out-door
most beautiful views which the situation enjoyment in the park, the company is for-
commands is obtained. The mode in which tunate in the possession of 300 acres of free-
diving and other submarine operations are hold land to the north, available for build-
'
—
conducted are daily exhibited in the pa- ing purposes an important element in the
vilion established under the superintend- financial prospects of the undertaking.
ence of M. Denayrouze. A circus of noble
I
214
X.OMDON. [ENGLAND.] London.
Vol. I.
215
London. [ENGLAND.] London.
The following houses, worthy of recom- Hats. — Lincoln Bennett & Co., the well-
mendation, are among the best in London: known and 10
hatters, 1 Sackville Street
C'hr<,nome.ters and ]Vatches. —The old and Piccadilly,keep gentlemen's hats of every
celebrated house of Ch. Frodsham & Co., description in large variet}', and ladies'
at 8i Strand, "W. C, still offer the very velvet-napped riding and felt hats.
finest Avatches and chronometers to be
bought in London, and of every possible
description. This house superintends her
Majesty's clocks at Buckingham Palace.
Costumes, Mantles, and Laces. A house — acter of his house, where it has always been
having the very highest reputation in this "safe to take a lady." It is much fre-
business is certainly the London General quented by foreigners for the dejeuners a la
IMourning Warehouse of the Messrs. Jay, fonrchette ; at 2 P. M. the saloon is gener-
2-13-253 Regent Street (Eegent Circus, ally filled with ladies who have been shop-
close to the Langham). Every thing is ping, and have dropped in for lunch. Din-
of the very best quality and sold at reason- ner is served at seven, a la carte, or at fixed
able prices. Their elegant silk costumes, prices, in the handsome private-rooms. Cafe
cut bv Parisian fitters, never fail to give Verrey has also a special department for
satisfaction; are finished with care and the serving out luncheons and dinners. As
greatest promptitude, and represent the cor- Verre3''s is usually very crowded Sunday
rect fashions of the season. A large stock evenings, visitors should take the precau-
of hats from the best ai'tistes in I'aris is tion of ordering their table the day before,
alsoalways on hand. The gloves of this in person or by note to the manager.
house have a deservedly good name.
Exchange Office .—Yiand?, & Co., 16 Strand, London, in the above line of business, is
at the entrance of the Charing Cross Rail- that of J. Allison & Co., Regent House,
way Station, offer the best rates of ex- 238-242 Regent Street. Costumes in the
change for American, French, and other latest fashion, silks, cloaks, etc., are kept
currencies, besides purchasing foreign se- in large variety, besides a special depart-
curities, etc. ment fur mourninfj in all its branches.
Furs, etc. The International Fur Store, Steamsh'p Companies^ Addresses. White —
at 163 and 165 Regent Street, comprises an Star, Ismay, Imrie, & Co., 31 Leadenhall
immense and choice variety of fur goods in Street, E. C. Peninsular and Oriental, 122
:
the latest style of fashion. Sealskin jack- Leadenhall Street, E. C. A^ichor, 19 Lead-
;
ets, etc., which for shape and quality can enhall Street, E. C. National, 36 Leaden-
;
these articles (as well as a fine style of 2i hours ;Margate, G hours and Rams-
to ;
basket trunk) a specialty. Their house is gate, 7 hours. The time by railway is
of world-wide celebrity. naturally much quicker.
The up and down the Thames is
trip
one which no American who has the time
to spare should omit to make the immense;
America and Americans have enabled them ton side on condition of his walking once a
j
in a great degree to meet their wants, thu year to this point, carrying on his head a
saving time, worry, and expense. pair of horns. Passing the West India
217
"Woolwich. [ENGLAND.] Windsor.
Docks, Deptford is reached this suburb of
;
the banks of the river are the Baths, where
London also contains a dockyard of 31 hot, cold, and vapor baths may be obtained
acres. It is historically noted for its dock- and at very reasonable prices. There are
yard, where Peter the Great studied ship- Assembly Rooms, Theatre, and a very good
building in 1698. He resided at the time Libraiy.
in Sayes Court, the residence of the cele- London to Windsor Castle.— Starting from
brated John Eveh'n. Opposite Deptford the Paddington station, which is thirty-five
is the Isle of Dogs, so called from the ken- minutes by express train from Windsor, 3 ou
nel of King John being situated here. arrive at the favorite seat of the sovereigns
Five miles below London Bridge is of Great Britain for the past eight centu-
Greenwich (described page 217.^). ries— and even before Windsor Castle was
Xine miles from London is the cele- founded by William the Conqueror the Sax-
brated Eoyal Arsenal and Dockyard of on kings resided on this spot. The castle
Woolunch, the latter having been in exist- lies near the town of Windsor, which con-
ence for nearly four hundred years, and tains some 10,000 inhabitants. There are
extending along the shore for nearly a mile. several good hotels— best, Castle and Clar-
The population of "Woolwich is aljout ence. The noted Star and Garter was burn-
41,000. The yard contains several dry- ed in 18G9. If the royal family be absent
docks, capable of receiving the largest you can visit her majesty's private apart-
vessels. Notice especially the Engine Fac- ments, for which purpose you must obtain
tory, Covered Slips and Shears for masting an order from the lord chamberlain; the
and dismasting vessels. The different de- rest of the castle may be visited by an
partments of the Arsenal are well deserving order which can be procured from your
a visit they consist of the Gun Factory^
; bankers. The principal object that will
Carriage Department, Laborator7j,?in(\ Store- attract the attention of the visitor is St.
keepers Department. The operation of George's Chapel and royal vault. The
forging, coiling, boring, and rifling the first is a very splendid specimen of Gothic
immense guns is most interesting. In the architecture. Llere the marriage ceremonv
Carriage Department every description of of the Prince of V.'ales and the Princess Al-
gun-carriages, transport carriages, ambu- exandra was performed with great magnif.-
lances, etc., are constructed; the stock of cence. The altar was arrayed with its gold
timber on hand is immense. The Labor- communion plate in massive rows, and the
aioryis used for the manufacture of shells, ceremony performed by a number of prel-
solid shot, cartridges, percussion caps, and ates, who made the services most impress-
all manner of fuzes. The Artillery Bar- ive. The musical portion of the ceremony
raclcs,about one mile from the Arsenal, was sweetlv rendered b}' Madame Jenny
should be visited also the Royal Military
;
Lind Goldschmidt, who, with others, of-
Academy for the education of officers des- fered up the hj'mn of praise on this great
tined for the Engineers and Artillery. It day. The following is the hymn, which
was here that the unfortunate Prince Im- was composed by the Prince's father:
perial, so universally beloved by all his
"This day. with joyful heart and voice,
class-mates, graduated with such high To heaven be raised a nation's prayer
honors. A monument, erected to his mem- Almighty Father, deign to grant
or}' b}' allthe English officers, was here Thy blessing to the wedded pair.
unveiled in 1882. Principal hotels, Long's
"So shall no clouds of sorrow dim
and Miti'e. Eighteen miles from London The sunshine of their early days
JJiirtford reached.
is It contains 7000 in- But happiness in endless round
Ii:il)itants, and is noted for its paper mills, Shall still encompass all their ways."
the first in England having been erected
here. A picture of the grand ceremony was paint-
Twenty-six miles from London Graves- ed by Mr. Frith, for the copyright of which
end is reached. It contains 20,000 inhabi- a higher
price has been offered than has
tants, and is a third-class watering place, ever been oflered for any other picture.
much frequented by the working class of Tennyson, the poet-laureate of Great Brit-
London on Sunday. The old portion of ain, produced the following nuptial ode on
the town is anything but interesting. On the occasion
217i
Richmond. [ENGLAND.] Richmond.
' Sea-king's daughter from over the pea, ham, the spot where stood the house of
Alexandra!
Pope, the poet his body is interred in the
Saxon, and Norman, and Dane are we,
:
But all of us Danes in our welcome of thee, church. Close by is Strawberry Hill,
Alexandra! once the residence of Horace Walpole, and
Welcome her, thunders of fort and of fleet no\V- belonging to Lady Waldegrave. Of
Welcome her, thundering cheer of the street!
Welcome her, all things youthful and sweet, course you will dine at the world-renowneJ
Scatter the l)lo.«som under lier feet. Star and Garter of Richmond. The sur-
Break, happy land, into earlier flowers Tcrs I
rounding scenery is most delightful; din-
Make mur^ic, oh bird, in the new-budded bow- ners are exquisite.
Welcome welcome her, all tiiat is ours!
lier,
Warble, oh bugle, and trumpet bhire! A short walk or ride of two miles, cross-
Flags, flutter out upon turrets and towers! ing the Thames Bridge, will bring you to
Flames, on the windy headhmd flare !
Hampton Court, open free every da}' ex-
Utter your jubilee, steeple and spire
Clash, ye bells, in the merry March air! cepting Fridays. This palace was origi-
Flash, ye cities, in rivers of fire I nally built by Cardinal Wolsey, who pre-
Welcome her, welcome the land's desire, sented it to his sovereign, Henry VI 1 1. It
Alexandra!
"• Sea kinc's daughter, as happv as fair,
was the birthplace of Edward VI. The
of a blissful he'ir.
151i-^>fiirbride masks and tournamentsof Philip and !Mary,
Bride of the heir of the kings of the sea. and Elizabeth, occurred here; also the cel-
Oh joy to the people, and joy to the throne. ebration of the marriage of Cromwell's
Come to us, love us, and make us your own;
For >^axon, or Dane, or Norman we. daughter and Lord Falconbury. The pal-
Teuton, or Celt, or whatever we b?. ace is a splendid structure of red brick,
We are each all Dane in our welcome of thee, with stone ornaments. There are portraits
Alexandra 1"
of many of the great beauties of Charles
In the vault lie the remains of many of En- II. 's court, besides other paintings by
gland's sovereigns, including Henry YIII. many of the old masters, among them a
and his queen, Lady Jane Seymour, George fine picture of Charles I. on horseback In'
III. and his queen, William IV. and his Vandyck. The gardens are the chief re-
queen, Charles I., and the Princess Char- sort of the citizens. Here may be seen a
lotte the monument of the last is very
: vinery Avhere there is a grap2-vine ninety
fine. The vault lies at the eastern end of years old, which sometimes yields 3000
the chapel. It is in this chapel Avhere the bunches of grapas in one year.
installation of the Kni^ihts of the Carter An excursion should be made to Green-
takes place. The interior of the castle is wich, so celebrated for its magnificent hos-
most rich in decorations and works of art, pital, its Royal 0!)servatory, not to speak
cmhracing pictures, statuary, and hronzes. of its white-bait dinners at the notorious
The principal L-^allcry in which these works Trafalgar Hotel. Steamers leave London
are shown is over 500 feet in lenirth. In every five minutes. Greenwich is also cel-
the centre of the castle is situated the round ebrated for being the birthplace of Henry
lower in which James I. of Scotland was VIII., and of his daughters Elizabeth and
confined. There is a park surrounding the Mary. The present magnificent hospital
castle,through which you must drive or was commenced by Charles II., and added
walk, and visit Virginia Water, Heme's to by different sovereigns. It consists of
Oak, etc. At the end of the Long Walk" '
' —
four quadrangles namely, King Charles's,
— three miles —
notice the magnificent King William's. Queen Mary's, and Queen
equestrian statue of George Ill.b}- West- Anne's, capable of accommodating 2400
macott. patients. In addition to other incomes,
A short distance from Windsor is Frog- the hospital is supported by a tax of six-
more, the residence of the late Duchess of pence per month on every mariner either
Kent, the queen's mother, now occupied by in the royal navy or in the merchants'
the Prince and Princess Christian. A service. There is a fine picture-gallery and
pleasatit hoat-trip can be taken up the chapel open to the public. Avisit should
Thames to II>-nley, where the regattas take be made to the Painted Hall, which con-
place, Wallinfjjord, and Abingdon. tains many beautiful historical paintings,
Richmond. — The view is probably un- with statues of Nelson and Duncan. The
surpassed in Great Britain. From the Royal Observatory occupies the most con-
summit of tlie hill may be seen Twicken- spicuous spot in Greenwich Park it stands
;
217f
DcLwicH. [ENGLAND.] New Cross Station,
300 feet above the level of the river : a
magnificent view may be obtained from its
summit. Its foundation-stone was laid in
1675.
Duluich, five miles from Waterloo Bridge,
contains a galler}^ of paintings called the
Dulwich Collection. These pictures were
collected for Stanislas Augustus, King of
Poland, who dying before their deliver\-,
they were thrown on the hands of the col-
lector, M. Desenfans, whose heir bequeathed
them to Dulwich College. There are sev-
eral Murillos, Titians, Tintorettos, and Te-
niers among the collection.
opened in 1845 under the patronage of [Hotels: Old Ship, Clarendon, and Bed-
Queen Adelaide. At Sydenham Station^ (ih \ford.
miles from London, a line branches off to j
Visit the New Pier, which was erect-
the Crystal Palace, half a mile. At Nor- I ed 1867, and by its beauty throws
in
vood Junction^ the A\'est-end branch of the I completely into the shade the celebrated
Brighton and the South Coast IJaihvay I
Chain which has been considered
Pier,
unites with the main line, Norwood, from for years one of the greatest lions of
its vicinity to the Crystal Palace, and the England. Brighton contains a popula-
beauty of its situation, is a very pleasant tion of nearly 80,0U0, but during the sea-
place of summer resort ;there are several son it amounts to over 150,000. It is one
good hotels, where excellent accommoda- of tlic most magnilicently built cities in
tion is to be had. the United Kingdom, ofl'ering ever\' induce-
I
ing to the daily increasing importance of sober-minded people will find churches and
—
the place as a railway terminus there be- chapels of every denomination. The prin-
ing now no less than four distinct stations cipal house of worship is the modern Church
at Croydon. The remains of the Archiepis- of St. Peter, which is exceedingly hand-
copal Palace are situated in the lower por- some. It was erected by Sir Charles Bar-
tion of the town adjoining the church. ry, architect of the new houses of Parlia-
Two visits were made here by Queen Eliz- ment. But the old parish church of St.
—
abeth in its prosperous days in 1567 and Nicholas is perhaps the most interesting
1573. In taking her departure on one of building. It contains a line monument
these occasions, the queen showed her ha- erected to the memory of Captain Tatter-
tred of marriage in the following well- sall, who assisted Charles II. to escape after
known sp3ech to the archbishop's wife : the battle of Worcester. The other princi-
"Madam I may not call you; mistress I pal buildings are the Roval Pavilion, built
am ashamed to call you ; and so I know by George IV. when Prince of Wales it :
protected from the waves by a strong sea- poises, congers, turtles,and other animals
Avall formed of concrete and Portland stone of large dimeosions. The next largest tank
— the latter is a portion of the materials (No. 36), which is fifty feet by thirty, con-
of which old Blackfriars Bridge was con- taining about 60,000 gallons of sea-water,
structed. isimmediately opposite.
Entering the gates at the western end, The eastern end of the western corridor
the visitor tinds himself at the top of a flight opens upon the Conservatory, which serves
of granite steps, twent}^ feet in width, lead- as an approach to the rockwork, fernery,
ing to the entrance court, sixty feet by and picturesque cascade, and also to the
forty feet. The front elevation of the build- eastern corridor, which, boundingthe south-
ing is eighteen feet in height, and consists ern side, is continued parallel with the fern-
of five arches, with terra-cotta columns and ery from its southern angle.
enrichments. On the frieze running around The artistic rockwork skirting the north
the sides are the appropriate words '"And : side of the Conservatory, which is traversed
God said, Let the waters bring forth abun- by a stream of water broken up at inter-
dantly the moving creature that hath life." vals so as to form numerous natural bays
On the northern side of the entrance-court and ponds, is now utilized for the reception
is the restaurant and on the southern (in
; of seals and the larger reptilia.
the wall abutting on the new road) a series In the side space between the Conserv-
of niches ornamented with vases. From atory and the second or eastern corridor
this outer court the entrance-hall, eighty are octagonal table tanks, of elegant design,
feet by approached through
forty-five, is for the exhibition of some of the smaller and
three doors. furnished with read-
This is more rare marine animals and, at the east-
;
ing-tables, and supplied regularh^ with the ern extrerai^v, apparatus which serves to
serials, journals, and telegrams of the day ;
illustrate the hatching and development
while between the pillars supporting the of trout and salmon.
roof are handsome pedestals, surmounted The entire length of this second corridor
by large glass vases containing the smaller is about 100 one side of the eastern
feet,
interesting marine and fresh- water animals, portion, which ninety feet by twenty-
is
which would be lost to view in the larger three, being devoted to the exliibition of
tanks. Li one of the recesses facing the fresh-water animals. At the end of the
entrance are microscopes, in which speci- corridor are situated the curator's offices
mens illustrative of subjects in natural and the naturalists' rooms, fitted with open
histori' connected with the Aquarium are tanks and all necessary appliances, and the
constantly exhibited. To the north of the engines, pumps, etc., for supplying the wa-
hall lie the general manager's offices, the ter and keeping it constantly aerated.
retiring-rooms, kitchen, etc. and eastward, ; The salt water is pumped direct from the
in a direct line with the restaurant, is the sea into reservoirs constructed under the
entrance to the western or No. 1 corridor floors of the corridors, and is thence con-
of the Aquarium proper. This corridor veyed into the tanks by the same engine-
(the longest of three) extends 220 feet, and power. These reservoirs are capable of
is broken by a centre vestibule, fifty-five holding about 500,000 gallons of water, a
feet by forty-five. The roof, which is groin- quantity which can be pumped from the
ed and constructed of variegated bricks, sea in about ten hours. The water in the
rests upon columns of Bath stone, pol- tanks is constantly aerated and kept in cir-
ished serpentine marble, and Aberdeen culation by a stream of compressed air, sup-
granite the carved capitals of the col-
;
plied to the lower part of the tanks, and
umns having appropriate marine subjects. worked by steam-power. This also keeps
On each side are placed the first two series down the temperature and oxidizes any
of tanks, twenty-one in number these in- ;
organic impurity which the water may con-
crease in size from eleven to ten feet up- tain. The circulation thus afforded is found
ward, the largest measuring over 100 feet to be preferable to that obtained by the
in lentrth, forty feet in width, and holding more costly system of pumping adopted in
110,000 gallons of sea-water. This colos- other aquaria, as it dispenses with the ne-
sal tank (No. 6) is the largest in the build- cessity of circulating reservoirs, and allows
ing, and is devoted to the exhibition of por- each tank to be treated independently of
220
WORTHIKG. [ENGLAND.] Portsmouth,
its —
neighbors an advantage which can not '
1720. The cathedral the principal object
is
be overrated when such a large body of wa- of interest it consists in part of a building
:
There are several excursions in the vi- naval station in the reign of King John,
cinity which it is desirable to make among
; was fortified l)y Edward IV., Richard III.,
others is that to the DeiiVs hike : the view Henry VII., and was the only roAal naval
from this spot is really charming. '
this was the work of Bishop Storv, and was place of Richard Cobden the scenery in :
finished in 1500. The ancient city, called the neighborhood is delightful, and travel-
Eegnum, now lies buried beneath the soil ers might well take it in their way. The
but coins, urns, mosaic pavements, occur in town itself has nothing t<i interest the vis-
every direction, and fresh discoveries are itor outside the dock-yard with the excep-
continually being made. A remarkable in- tion of the grand depot called the "tiun
scription, now preserved at Goodwood, re- Wharf,"' covering a space of fourteen
conling the dedication of a temple to Nep- acres, where ordnance of every calibre
tune and Minerva by the College of Smiths, may be seen in immense quantities. The
they being the great patrons of handicrafts- armory contains 40.000 stand of arms.
men, was found here in the North Street in The Portsmouth dock-vard, which is en*
Vol. I.— K 2 221
Isle of Wight. [ENGLAND.] Isle of WiGin
are conducted by the use of steam. The castle, and walk to Newport, only one mile.
anchor-forging establishment is really a If starting from Cowes, do the same dis-
wonderful sight. The machine for the tances, that is, sleeping at Ventnor and
manufacture of "vvooden pulleys was in- Freshwater.
vented by an American. The dock covers If making the tours from Newport, the
an area of thirty-three thousand square first is called the Southern Tour. viz. Arre-
ivards, and employs nearly six thousand I
ton, Shanklin, Undercliff", Ventnor, Niton,
men. A naval college and school for the ! Blackgang Chine, Rookley, and Newport.
study of naval architecture are connected Western Tour. —
Carisbrooke Castle,
with the establishment also connected
; Northcourt, Freshwatergate, Alum Baj',
with the dock-yard is an immense steam Yarmouth, Carisbrooke village, and New-
basin three thousand feet long, said to be port.
the largest in the world. Lying in the Northeastern Tour. — Fernhill, Quarr,
harbor may be seen the hulk of Nelson's Ryde, the Priory, Bembridge, Sandown to
flag-ship, the old "Victory." Newport, by Long Lane.
Close to the water's edge in Southsea Arrangements can be made with the
are the King's Rooms, used for concerts, proprietors of the Bugle Inn at Newport
promenades, and other meetings adjoin- for carriages to make these excursions.
;
'
ing are warm, shower, and vapor baths. The " Bugle" is the best hotel in Newport.
I
The Bi^e Pier is connected with the rail- The Isle of Wight is one of the most
!
road station by a tramway. In case you beautiful and healthy portions of the king-
do not wish to stop at Portsmouth, you can dom the air, although remarkably mild,
;
continue to the pier, where a small steamer is sharp, bracing, and salubrious. Dr.
leaves for Ryde, Isle of Wight, everj^ hour. James Clark says that, " from the variety
From Portsmouth to Ryde, fare, Is. 3d. which it presents in point of elevation, soil,
time, 30 minutes. and aspect, and from the configuration of
Tour of the Tsle of Wight. its hills and shores, it possesses several pe-
If makingthe tour from Ryde or Cowes, culiarities of climate and situation which
we advise the following course Take a :
render it a very favorable and commodious
carriage and go round the island at your residence throughout the 3'ear for a large
leisure, say three days a one-horse car-
:
class of invalids." It is said that the
riage Avill cost in the vicinity of twenty death-rate in the vicinity of Ventnor is
shillings per day; a two -horse carriage only seventeen in every thousand, while
about thirty-five shillings, every thing in- in the rest of England it averages twenty-
cluded. two. It is separated from Hampshire by
If starting from Ryde, stop at the Pier a channel called the Solent Sea, which va-
Hotels a first-class house, at the entrance to ries in Avidth from four to six miles. In
Ryde from the pier table excellent.
; times of war this channel was mostly the
—
The first day. Bembridge, Taverland, anchorage of the British fleet. The island
Sandown, Shanklin, and Ventnor seven- — is about 60 miles in circumference, meas-
teen miles. Sleep bymeans at Vent-
all uring 22:|- miles from east to west, and a
nor, although the driver may want you to little over 13 miles from north to south,
go farther that day. The Marine Hotel is and contains about 85,000 acres. It is dis-
one of the most comfortable on the island. tinguished for the beauty and variety of
—
Second day. St. Lawrence, Niton, Sand- its natural features, and is universally con-
rock, Blackgang, Shorwell, Northwood, sidered the garden of England. The sur-
Freshwater—twentv-one mile."*. Sleep the face of the countrv' is undulating, and is
second night at Lambert's Hotel; very good said to have been formerly covered with
house. woods, but the ship-building of Portsmouth
Thii'd day. —
Yarmouth, Calbourne, Ca- soon exhausted them. The two sides of
risbrooke Castle, Newport, Cowes, Osborne, the island are of widely different charac-
—
QuarrAbbey,Rvde thirty -five miles. Ar- ter. .The northern part is covered with
222
RVDE, [ENGLAND.] Sandowx.
verdant and beautiful foliage, -while the and lighted with gas an enchanting view
;
southern part, called the JSach of the Jsl'ind,can 1)0 had in every direction. The town
contains the wildest scenery, and abounds may be considered of modern date, but the
in rocks, deep ravines, and imposing preci- beauty of its site and its salubrious air has
pices. The population of the island is a recently caused it to become a most fash-
little over 55,000. ionable watering-place. On the banks of
The Romans invaded the Isle of Wight the water, and near the Pier hotel, is the
during the reign of the Emperor Claudius, Royal Victoria Yacht Club-house, a hand-
A.D. 43, and it remained in their i)Osses- some and convenient building the first ;
sion until 530, when it was conquered by stone was laid I)y his Royal Highness the
Cedric the Saxon. It was frequently at- Prince Consort March 2, 1S4G. The club
tacked and devastated by the D.aies, was regatta takes place in the month of Au-
twice i)lundered by Earl Godwin in the gust each }'ear. One hundred yards from
time of Edward the Confessor, and by Earl the clulj-house, in 18G9, our unfortunate
Tosti in the time of Harold. It was also countryman, Mr. Grinnell, was instantly
invaded several times by the French, es- killed by accidentally falling from a win-
pecially in 1377, when the island was at- dow. Mr. Grinnell's loss was much re-
tacked in large force, but its strong-hold, gretted, as he commanded the respect and
Carisbrooke Castle, was so bravely defend- esteem of all who knew him.
ed by Sir Hugh Tyrrel that they were The Holy Trinity Church is a very hand-
eventually obliged to withdraw. some building, aiul well worth a visit.
William the Conqueror conferred the There is a theatre open during the sum-
lordship of the Isle of Wight on William mer months, and often during the winter
Fitz Osborne, earl of Hei'cford, and for two months amateur performances are given
centuries the island was governed by inde- by the English officers stationed at Ryde.
pendent lords. Since the time of Edward Steamers run between Portsmouth,
I. in 1293, the inland has been governed liy Southsea, Cowes, Southampton, and Ryde
wardens appointed by the crown luit the nearly every hour during the day. The
;
office has become a sinecure, and tlio pres- excursions in the immediate neighborhood
—
ent governor receives no salarv, an(l but are numerous the ruins of Quarr Abbey,
little patronage. In 1444, Henry Beau- Binstead (Quarries and Church, etc.
champ, duke of Warwick, was crowned After leaving Ryde for Ventnor, notice
King of Wight by the unfortunate Henry on your left the celeltrated Benibridfje CHJfs,
VI. The Isle of Wight has of late years rising almost pcrjiendicularly from tlie sea;
been one of the residences of the queen. notice on the hill to the left the new fort,
In 1844, the mansion of Osborne, with its commenced in lsr.2, which, with the fort
park and the adjoining estate of Barton, on the beach, and the three adjacent bat-
was purchased by her majesty and the late teries, form the coast defenses of this por-
prince consort. Osborne Jlousc is situated tion of the island. On the left of the fort
in the immediate vicinity of East Cowes. stands a lofty obelisk, seen from nearly all
The mansion has been greatly enlarged parts of the island it was erected by the
:
most lovely and romantic on the island; its scener}'. The cause of these landslips, the
chief object of attraction is the Chine, a last of which took place in 1818, is, that the
word derived from the Saxon cine or chink. understratum is of a loose and absorbent
This Chine owes its origin to a small stream nature, which, when saturated by heavy
of water, which, falling over the ledge of rains, becomes the consistency of mud,
the sand-cliff for numerous ages, has worn while the superincumbent strata consists
a channel nearly 200 feet deep by 100 wide, of rock and chalk. As the southern storms
the sides of which are beautifully clothed continue to waste away the substrata, in
with brushwood and hanging trees, and the course of time the whole is under-
here, shut out from all the world, one can mined, and the superior cliff" slides forward
well linger fur hours, soothed by the mur- with a fearful crash, part retaining its per-
mur of the falling stream, and during the pendicular position, Avhile the residue, cov-
lovely nights of May and June the night- ered with trees, houses, and underwood, is
ingale adds to the enchanting chorus. The completely overturned, or dashed about in
Chine is inclosed by a gate at each end a ; the most fearful manner.
small gratuity is expected on leaving. Passing through the town Bonckurck,
At the entrance to the Chine, nearly in /loted for its picturesque and romantic
front of Hillier's hotel, notice a small tower beauty, and as being the residence of the
of stones about eight feet high, the top of well-known authoress, Miss E. Sewell, also
which is covered \vith tlowers, and near that of Edmund Peel, an author and poet
the base a running spring of crystal wa- of celebrity, wo arrive at Ventnor, consider-
ter, above which notice an American eagle, ed the most favorable place in England for
with "E Pluribus Unum" on his breast: consumptive invalids, being visited with
below the stars and stripes we read the less rain than any other place in Great
following verse Britain, and enjoying a more even temper-
" Oil traveler, Ftny thy weary feet ature throughout the year. The rise of
Drink of this fount;iin cool and sweet Ventnor as a watering-place is due to its
It flows for rich and poor the same.
position, beauty, and salubrity. It is sit-
Then go thy way, remembering s-tili
The wayside well beneath the hill, uated on a succession of terraces sloping
'i'lie cup of water in His name." from the north to the sea, with altitudes
It seems that the inhabitants of Shanklin varying from 300 feet above to the level of
entreated Longfellow, during his visit in the sea, with the hill of St. Boniface, or the
1868, to write a verse commemorative of "(fo?rn," as it is heT •"ailed, 900 feet high
the event, and they have honored it in the at its back, protecting it from the north-
most conspicuous manner. easterly winds, while its southern aspect
The beach is one of the finest on the gives it, during the winter, a comfortable
coast, and offers every facility for bathing warmth, being cooled in the summer by
or walking, while the drives in the vicin- the breezes of the sea. Its population is
ity embrace every variety of the beauti- about 6000. A railway from Ryde was
ful and romantic. Ashort distance from opened to Ventnor in 1866. Travelers
Shanklin are the artificial ruins of Cook's wishing to come by rail to Ventnor can
Castle. engage carriages to make the different ex-
The Underdiffl or Landslip, Avhich aver- cursions from the proprietors of the hotels.
ages half a mile wide and nearly seven Ventnor enjoys both the luxury of gas
miles long, commences here. This is a and water, and its walks and rides are not
spot that has very few parallels on the sur- surpassed, if equaled, by any on the island.
face of the globe, and is universally con-
sidered as the most interesting portion of
the island. It is formed b}' numerous
landslips that have taken place in differ-
ent ages, producing at the time of their re-
currence the most destructive results, but
eventually converted into most beautiful Two miles north of Ventnor is the former
pictures, irregular terraces, steep knolls, residence of the Earl of Yarborough, Ap-
picturesque and sylvan dells, a continuous puldtrcomhe, the finest seat on the island
succession of wild, romantic, and beautiful here was formerly an ancient priorj', found
224 ,
Freshwater. [ENGLAND.] Newport.
ent magnificent building was formerly sur- what is now the George hotel, then the
rounded by most beautiful grounds, in the I
government house. Yarmouth Castle is a
midst of a fertile and extensive domain. Ismail fort built in the reign of Henr^' VIII.
After the earl's death in 1847, the furni- The church contains a monument of Sir li.
ture, pictures, etc., were sold at auction. Holmes, captain of the island, who enter-
In 1859 the mansion was leased by a hotel tained Charles II. on his landing. From
company; the speculation proved a failure, Yarmouth to Newport the distance is nine
and the building is now occupied as an ed- and three quarter miles, passing Calbourne
ucational establishment. a short distance from the high road; its
After passing various objects of attrac- pretty little church is well deserving a vis-
tion, such as SfeephiU Castle, a modern it. After passing Carisbrooke, the former
structure, built by J. Hamborough, Esq., capital of the island (it will be much better
in 1833, St. Lawrence's Well, Nitron, etc., to continue on to Newport, and make the
which your driver will point out, we ar- excursion from there to Carisbrooke Cas-
rive at Blaclcgang Chine, the terminus of tle the distance is only one mile, and the
;
the Underclirt". This Chine is just the re- hotel accommodation is much better), we
verse of that of Shanklin, wild, rugged, and arrive at Newport, the capital of the island.
barren its shelving sides are upward of
; The Bugle Inn, next door to which the
500 feet high, and the scene is grand, ster- Brighton and South Coast Kail way have a
ile, and uninviting. Near by, in a build- booking and general inquiry office, is well
ing, is the y^keleton of a whale captured managed. There is a railroad from here to
iiere in 1841, the largest ever caught on Cowes (five miles), and coaches run to
the English coast. Behind the Blackgang Ryde, Yarmouth, and the eastern side of
Chine rises the highest land on the island, the island. The town is finely situated on
830 feet above the level of the sea it is ; the river Medina, and contains over 8000
called St. Catharine's Hill, from the top of inhabitants. Newport contains a town-
whicli a most magnificent view can be ob- a grammar-school
hall; —
the scene of
tained. Charles I.'s negotiation with the Parlia-
From the UnderclifF to Freshwater, our mentars' commissioners. St. Thomas's, the
next stopping-place, the distance is fifteen principal church of the town, contains a
miles, during which time we pass numer- beautiful monument b}' Marochetti, erected
ous other chines, but inferior in size to by Queen Victoria to the memory of the
Blackgang. We also pass the villages of Princess Elizabeth, daugliter of Charles I.,
Chale, Kingston, Shorwell, Brixton, Mot- who died in Carisbrooke Castle, and whose
tistone, and Brooke. remains were accidentally found in 1793.
Freshwater, or Freshwater Cliffs, is a The museum contains a rather interesting
l)eautiful promontory nearly three miles in collection of Roman coins.
extent; in the distance there is a same- A walk must be made from Newport to
ness in its appearance, but when examined Carisbrooke Castle, a fine old ruin built or
in detail it exhibits a diversity of feature rebuilt by William Fitz Osborne, a Nor-
of the most sublime description. man knight, and first Lord of the Isles, the
principal sight on the island. It is situa-
ted about cne mile west of Newport, on the
summit of a steep hill. Its mouldering
Make excursions around the Needle battlements, covered with luxuriant ivy
Rocks to Alum Bay, Soratchell's Bay, etc. and other vegetation, render it a most ro-
Notice the singular isolated rocks in Fresh- mantic feature in the landscape. The keep
water Bay, the caverns of Watcombe Bay, commands a fine view. There is a fine well,
the Wedge Kock. etc. Near Freshwater 200 feet deep, capable of supplying water to
Gate stands Faringford House, the former a large garrison. A candle is let down to
residence of Tennyson. From Freshwater show visitors its depth. The water is raised
to Yarmouth the distance is throe and a by means of a donkey, which turns a large
half miles. This old-fashioned town is sit- wheel. The window through which Charles
uated on the eastern side of the Iliver Yar;^ I. tried to escape is shown to the visitor.
it contains about 700 inhabitants. Charles Some writers attribute the origin of this
West Cowes. [ENGLAND.] TcNBRiDGE Wells.
castle to the Celts, others to the Romans. [
Osborne, the residence of the queen, Avhich
Its Norman vralls, which are included in has been entirely rebuilt. It stands on a
the present walls, occupied about one and ridge overlooking the Solent and Spithead,
a half acres, but the present or Elizabethan but not in such a prominent position as
walls inclose twenty acres of land, A walk Xorris Castle, Nearer Ryde are the re-
should be taken round them to judge of their mains of the celebrated Quarr Abbey, built
extent and enjoy the beautiful landscape. by the Cistercian monks in the 12th cent-
The son of Charles I., Henr}', was kept ur}'. Very little can be distinguished now
prisoner here two years after his father's except a small portion of the chapel.
death. An allowance of $5000 per annum
was made him. His sister died a few days
after that unfortunate event.
The principal i-elic of antiquity yet found
on the island is that of a Roman villa, dis-
covered accidentallj' while making exca-
vations in the town of Carisbrooke. Its
extent is 150 feet long by 60 wide. On the
walls of some of the rooms the painting is
quite fresh. ROUTE No. 74.
Five miles from Newport b}' railway is London to Hastings, via Chiselhurst and
situated the town of West Cowes, a fash- ]
Tuiilj'iJge Wells, by rail from London
ionable bathing-place, and the principal i
Bridge. Time, 2 hrs, 55 min. fare, 175.
;
eleven nine-pounders on a semicircular TunhrvJge Wells is, after Bath, the most
j
batteiy. The building is now occupied as ancient <*f the inland watering-places. Ho-
the club-house of the Royal Yacht Squad- tels, the Calcerley and Kentish Royal. The
ron, The "Terrace" is a very pretty row mineral quality of these springs was first
of lodging-houses which stand on the Pa- noticed y Dudle}', Lord North, during the!
rade. ihe principal promenade, where yachts reign of James I, From that time the
and steamers pass within a few^ yards of springs were inclosed, and soon became
your window. famous. Tunbridge is supposed to bear
There is a ferrA- across the Medina to some resemlilance to Jerusalem, and the
East Cowes, near which is Norris Castle. surrounding hills are called Mount Eph-
one of the most conspicuous objects on the raim. Mount Zion, etc. Population 11,000.
island, and few persons would imagine it The season continues from May to No-
to be a modern building. It is Ijuilt in vember a band plays three times a day on
;
imitation of a Norman castle, and covered the Parade, and nothing is neglected to
with ivy to its topmost tower. Norris was make the place pleasant for visitors. Of
formerly the residence of the Duchess of Tunbridge Castle, built in the eleventh
Kent and her daughter, the Princess Yicto- century, the keep, part of the walls, and
!
ria, now queen. The next estate is that of an inner gatewav still remain. It is said
'
226
Hastings. [ENGLAND.] nEi> Hill.
cipal of which is to Deerdene, for many cen- over the site ofthe Church of the Priory,
turies a residence of the Howards. Dork- the coffins of Earl de Warrene and his wife
ing was at one time of considerable import- were discovered. They now rest in the
ance. It is noted for its peculiar breed of Church of Southover, close by the Priory.
fowls, said to be of Roman origin, and As the coffins are less than half the usual
which bring remarkal)ly high prices. Ho- length, it is supposed that at some remote
tels, Red Lion and White Cross. time their bones were exhumed and placed
The town of Reigate is situated about in the present cases. A
chapel was erected
two miles from the junction. It contains in 1847 to contain their bones. The an-
about 10,000 inhabitants, and is noted for cient tombstone of Gundrada now occupies
the ruins of its old castle. the centre of the floor.
Passing the town of Horleij., five miles At the top of a hill to the west stands
from the junction, notice on the left the the Church of St. Anne, which well deserves
Earlsw'od Asylum for Idiots, founded in a visit.
1846. There are several interesting excursions
Three miles farther the Three Bridges in the vicinity of Lewes, the principal of
Junction is passed. Here a line to the which is that to Mount Harry, the scene of
east conveys the traveler to East Grim- the great battle fought on May 11th, 1264,
stead and Tunbridge Wells, and on the left between Henry III. and the barons com-
branches to Peticorth, Arundel, etc. manded by Simon De Montfort.
Hayimrd's Heath, thirty-eight miles from A branch road leads to Newhaven and
London, is now passed, where carriages Seaford. There are lines also to Brighton
may be hired at the hotel near the station. and UcJcfield.
Three miles farther Keymer Junction is Passing the Berwick Station, Pokgate
reached, where the traveler leaves the main Junction is reached. The main line passes
line to Brighton, and turns to the left, pass- through Pevensey (noted for its ivy-grown
ing through Lewes. Hotel, Star. This castle) and reaches Hastings (described in
picturesque old town contains nearly 10,000 Route 74), distance fifteen miles from Pole-
inhabitants. It is situated on the side of a gate.
steep hill in the centre of the South Downs, A branch line leads from the junction to
and is separated by the Ouse which flows Eastbourne, distance four miles.
through the town. After the Conquest, This town has within a few years become
Lewes was granted by the Conqueror to quite celebrated as a fashionable watering-
the Earl of Warrene, son-in-law of "Will- place. The old town is picturesquely situ-
iam. It remained in the hands of that ated in a small hollow finely sheltered by
family until the 14th century-. I
elm-trees. The new town extends from
The principal objects of interest in ad- ; the station to the sea, and is over one half
dition to the natural beauties of the place j
mile in length. The principal hotels are
are its ancient Castle and Priory of St. the Gildridge, Southdown, Burlington, Al-
Pancras. The remains of the first are finely bion, Sussex, and Pi'^r.
situated above the town. Of its four tow- The resident inhabitants are over 5000.
ers only two remain, one of w hich is occu- The town is finely sheltered on all sides
pied by an Archaeological Society, which except the south and east. The bathing is
has collected a museum
of objects of par- considered very good. It has also the ad-
branch of
ticular interest to lovers of that vantage of mineral springs, which are said
science. There is a grand view from the to resemble those of Clifton, and there are
summit of the tower. The Castle was built good walks and drives. It lies about two
by William de Warrene. the first Norman miles east of Beachy Head, and is much
earl, and his wife Gundrada. A
small en- recommended bracing air.
for its A new
trance-fee is charged. and attractive promenade has recently been
At the foot of the hill lie the ruins of the made round the Wish Tower, and the ex-
Priory of St. Pancras, which was founded tension of the parade to Holywell is being
by the above-mentioned earl and his wife. rapidly completed. The Devonshire Park
These ruins are also in charge of the Sus- and pavilion is close to the sea, and much
227i
Eastbourne. [ENGLAND.] Folkestone.
distance, several Martello Towers. East- London to Pai^s, via Tunbridge and
bourne has one of the finest churches in Folkestone, from Charing Cross Station.
—
the county Norman and Early English. Time, 8^ hrs. fare, £2 16^. (See p. 32.)
;
This beautiful watering-i)lace has re- Leaving London from London Bridge,
ceived valuable assistance from the Duke and passing throu^'h Croydon (see Route
of Devonshire, who is a large owner of No. 73) and Tunbridge (see Route No. 74),
properly and has a pretty residence there. we reach Paddock Wood Junction, where
The trees in the streets, the luxuriant vege- a line branches off to Maidstone, reaching
tation, and the sloping Downs give a fine that town in thirty minutes.
appearance to the town. There is a good Maidstone is ?Ak miles from London by
pier, on which a band plays daily. the Southeastern Railway, and contains a
Beachy Head, about two miles, should population of 23,058. Hotels, The Mitre
be visited; it is the most stupendous cliff and Roi/al Star. The town is situated on
along the coast, being 5G4: feet in perpen- the right bank of the Medway, surrounded
dicular height, and when the storm rages by orchards, hop-grounds, etc.. and is the
along the channel it has a grand and sub- capital of the county of Kent. Among
lime appearance. the principal buildings notice the county
Pevensey and Hurstmonceux Castles, jail, the town -hall, the corn market, the
within easy distance, should also be visited. church in which Archl)ishop Courtenay is
The neighborhood in and around East- buried, and the archbishop's palace, rebuilt
bourne abound with interesting historical in the 14th century. From Maidstone to
associations. Folkestone the distance
is about 35 miles.
Tide 13 minutes earlier than Brighton. Returning to the main line, we soon pass
Cheap pleasure tickets are issued to and Ashford Junction.^ the principal repairing
from Eastbourne. station of the Southeastern Railway it is :
Branch offices for railway information, important as the junction of three different
etc. Gowland,the Library, Marine Parade
: lines, but contains little to interest the
the Pier, Leach's Librarv, Grand Parade traveler. Population 55-22.
and Newman's Anchor Hotel. Westenhanger, ShornclifTe, and Folke-
Postal Telegraph Offices Railway Sta- stone are passed before reaching Folkestone
:
exceed 8| hours, owing to new arrange- of the sky, glistened and sparkled as it
j
ments put into practice Aprils 1881. flowed noiselessly on and the oars of the ;
Passing throug^i Duiwich (see Route already mentioned, Henry VIII., who here
No. 72) and Swanley Junction, whence a first saw Anne of Cleves, and called her a
branch line runs to Seven Oaks and Maid- "Flanders mare;" King James, in com-
stone, we reach Rochester and Strood. The pany with the King of Denmark Charles ;
latter place stands on the left bank of the II., after his restoration; and James II.
Medway, and contains little of interest, The cathedral and castle are among the
unless we except some fragments of a objects of interest to be visited at Roch-
Preceptory of the Templars, to whom the ester the latter is situated on the banks
;
manor of Strood was given by Henry II., of the Medway at the southwest corner of
which lie on the bank of the river, about the city-walls, and consists of a Norman
half a mile above Rochester Bridge. This keep with some portions of the outer walls.
bridge is one of the sights of Rochester, The present castle dates from the twelfth
and is a handsome iron structure, the century, and probably occupies the site of
foundations of which were laid in 1850 b}'' a much earlier fortress. This was the
Messrs. Fox & Henderson. It occupies first building invested and occupied by
the site of an old wooden structure of Louis of France during his invasion of En-
verv great antiquity, the view from which gland in the reign of King John. From
is thus described by Dickens : Rochester a visit may be made to Cobham
'
"On the left of the spectator lay the Hall, the seat of the Earl of Darnle}-, whose
ruined wall, broken in man}' places, and house and picture-gallery are open to the
in some overhanging the narrow beach be- public on Fridays. This gallery, being
low in rude and heavy masses. Huge chiefly formed by purchases from the Or-
knots of sea-weed hung upon the jagged leans Gallery, as well as the Vetturi Gal-
i
and pointed stones, trembling in every lery of Venice, is well worthy of inspec-
breath of wind and the green ivy clung tion.
;
j
mournfully around the dark and ruined One mile and three quarters from Roch-
battlements. Behind it rose the ancient ester we reach Chatham, which principally
I
castle, its towers roofless, and its massive consists of one long, dirty street running
walls crumbling away, but telling as proud- parallel with the Medway, outside the dock-
ly of its old might "and strength as when, yard and barracks. There is little of in-
seven hundred years ago, it rang with the terest in the town. The former was estab-
clash of arms, or resounded with the noise lished here by Queen Elizabeth, and soon
'
of feasting and revelry. On either side attained considerable extent the great ;
the banks of the Medway, covered with event in its history was the burning of the
corn-fields and pastures, with here and ships lying here at anchor by the Dutch
there a windmill or a distant church, fleet under De Ruyter, who on the 7th of
stretched away as far as the eye could June, 1667, anchored at the mouth of the
see, presenting a rich and varied land- Thames, and, blockading that river and the
scape, rendered more beautiful bv the Medway, obtained possession of the fort of
'
228
Canterbury. [ENGLAND.] Dover.
Sheerness, and attacked the ships lying at the nave, having fallen into a ruinous con-
anchor at Chatham, -which were protected dition, was rebuilt in 1378 it is a light
:
b}^ a chain stretched across the river at Perpendicular style, and greatly resembles
Gillingham Fort. This was speedily bro- that of the Winchester Cathedral the ;
ken, and the two vessels stationed to guard choir is raised to a considerable height
it set on tire. Others -were afterward de- above the crypt, diff'ering in this respect
j
damage effected Avas not as great as might long flight of steps it is also of unusual
;
have been expected. The barracks, capa- length, and is the work of William of Sins.
ble of accommodating 3000 men, lie along- The screen surrounding it dates from 1.305,
side of the river. Tiiey are inclosed, to- and was constructed by Prior Henry de
gether with the dock-yard, by fortitications Estria. Part of the pavement of the choir
called the Chatliam Lines, begun in 1758 is made of a delicate brown veined mar-
and completed in 1807, which encircle a ble which belonged to the original "glo-
considerable extent of ground, incUuling rious choir of Conrad." The cathedral is
the village of Brompton. Within this in- filled with numerous and interesting mon-
closui-e the military operations and grand uments.
reviews take place. Many royal personages have visited this
Faversham, the next place of importance cathedral to do homage at the shrine of
on our route, was early a place of conse- Thomas a Becket. Louis of France visited
"
quence, where Athelstane and his " witan the tomb in 117'J Kichard Cceur de Lion
;
were entertained in 9:30. In 1147 an abbey came here to return thanks to God and
was founded here by Stephen and Matilda, St. Thomas after his liberation from the
to whom Godfrey de Bouillon sent a piece Austrian prison. John and all the suc-
of the true cross, which was preserved in ceeding English kings, as well as their
the abbey ; the founders were afterward royal visitors, followed his example. The
buried here. The present parish church is visit of Henry YIII. and the Emperor
believed to be that once belonging to the Charles V. is thus mentioned by Stanley
abbey, but has since been entirely remod- " They rode together from Dover on the
eled; notice in the northern transept a pil- morning of Whitsunday, and entered the
lar bearing some earlj'^ English paintings city through St. George's Gate. Under
of great interest. the same canopy were seen both the youth-
Canterbury, the capital of the county of ful sovereigns. Cardinal Wolscy was di-
Kent, contains 21,324 inhabitants, and is rectly in front on the right and left were
;
62 miles distant from London. Hotels, the proud nol)les of Spain and England;
Fountain and Ro?e. There the chief feat- the streets were lined with clergy, all in
ure of interest is the Cathedral, which full ecclesiastical costume. They alight-
occupies the site of a Britisli or Eoman ed off their horses at the west door of the
church attributed to King Lucius. This cathedral Warham was there to receive
;
church, after being twice renewed, was them together they said their devotions
;
burned down at the time of the Con- doubtless before the shrine." By the same
quest (1067), and another begun in 1070, HenrA' VIII. an order was afterward issued
which was not completely linished until that Becket was to bo called no more a
1130, when it was dedicated by Archbishop saint, but Bishop Becket : his images were
William in the presence of Kings Henry pulled down throughout the kingdom, and
. of England and David of Scotland. Here the contributions to the shrine were for-
Becket Avas murdered ; in 1174 the choir, feited to the crown, while the bones of the
so beautiful that it bore the name of the ex-saint were ordered to be burned. Among
"glorious choir of Conrad," was burned the monuments in the cathedral, notice
down. This, together with the nave, was those of Edward the Black Prince and of
reconstructed, the works lasting until 1410, Henry IV,. with that of his second wife,
and the present building consists mostly Joan of Navarre.
of these different works. The principal Dover is situated 17 miles from Canter-
entrance is from the south porch, where in bury and 78 from London. The railway
the Saxon period all disputes were judged; runs along the harbor as fiir as the Admi-
229
Dover. [ENGLAND.] Chelmsford.
rait}' Pier. Population 22,2-14. Hotels, I the chalk cliff underneath the castle were
Imperial,Lord Warden, and Ship. 1
not made until toward the end of the last
The town of Dover lies in a valley be- century, and are shown only by special or-
tween Castle Hill and the Western Heights der these are casemates capable of lodg-
:
it isa well-built place with terraces front- ing 2000 men, with magazines for powder
j
,
has gradually retreated, owing to the ef-
probably saving England from a French ,
fects of a shifting bar of shingle Avliich
dynasty. The castle is situated about a sometimes closed it altogether, until the
mile from the town across the harbor, and construction of the Harbor of IJefuge, by
covers about 35 acres of ground. An order means of which the passage of shingle from
for admission may be obtained on a recom- the westward was prevented.
I
mendation from any hotel -keeper at the Both have lines running down
rail\va3's
Brigadier's oflSce in Castle Street orders for
; to the pier within afew paces of the steam-
viewing the Armory are issued by the Ord- ers, which leave here twice a day for Calais
nance Storekeeper, and for the underground and Ostend.
w^orks by the Commanding Engineer.
The interior, which is entered by Fulbert
de Dover's Tower, in Castle Street, has
been completely remodeled since 1780, but
still bears every resemblance to a Norman
and out-
castle, consisting of a keep, inner
er courts, gates, and watch-towers. The ROUTE No. 77.
size of the Koman castle which occupied London Xoncich and Yarmouth, via
to
this site is uncertain, the only part of the Chelmaford, Colchester, and Ipswich (direct
ancient work remaining being the lower route to Rotterdam, Antwerp, and the
portion of the Pharos, whose light once Rhine, via Harwich), from Liverpool Street
guided the imperial galleys into port. Of by the Great Eastern Railway, direct to
the numerous watch-towers once standing Norwich time, 3 hours fare, £1 35. 9c?.
; ;
along the walls of the later fortress. Con- direct to Yarmouth (same route as far as
stal)le's, Peverell's, the Avranches, and the Ipswich); time, 3 h. 50 m. f;ire, £1 2s. 8c?.
;
Colton are the onh' ones remaining in ad- Leaving London by the Great Eastern
dition to the keep ; the foundation walls Railway, we reach Chelmsford, the capital
of the last are said to have been laid by of the County of Essex, 29 miles distant
Henry Fitz-Empress. afterward Henry IL : from London. It contains several hand-
the}- are 2-4 feet in thickness. The keep some buildings —
St. Mary's Church, a
consists of three stories, the first being a town-hall, county jail, theatre, grammar-
large hall, at one time only entered from school, and a corn exchange. Hotels,
the story above, the second containing the Saracen's Head and White Hart. Popu-
chapel, and the third the state apartments. lation 5513. Continuing our route, the
Below the Artillerj' Barracks, which stand next place of importance which we pass is
near the edge of the castle cliflF, is a brass Colchester, a town containing 23,809 inhab-
cannon presented by the Emperor Charles itants. on the River Colne,
It is situated
V. to Henry VHI., which was cast at 22 miles from Chelmsford, and 51 from
Utrecht in 15-44. It bears the name of London. This is a place of great antiq-
Queen Elizabeth's "pocket-pistol." The uity, and is believed by many to be the
Church of St. Mary stands Avithin the pre- Camelodunum of the Romans. There are
cincts of the castle. The excavations in many old and interesting houses, one dat-
230
Colchester. [ENGLAND.] Norwich.
ing back as far as 1490. Here are also the in 1471, and the house in St. Nicholas Par-
'
ruins of a castle, of which the gateway and ish is still shown. Hotels, White Horse ami
i
tlie Great Eastern main line, and proceed but was not finished until 1510.
i
The in-
by a branch to Ilaruich. The Continental terior is 411 feet in length, and contains
Express trains leave Liverpool Street each many interesting monuments, among oth-
;
night at a lixed hour for Harwich, and a ers tiiat of Robert Bigod, Anne Boleyn's
:
similar train leaves Harwich each morning grandfather. Near to the cathedral stands
I
for London. These trains are in direct the liishop's palace, which was nearly ru-
I
connection with the Continental steamers, ined I)y the Puritans. Among the other
and perform the journej' from London to princii)al buildings are the Market, Guild-
Harwich (70 miles), without stopping, in hall, Bancroft Church and Grammar-
one hour and fifty minutes. The trains school, besides several fine hospitjils, etc.
run alongside the steamers at the quay at The introduction of the woolen trade
Harwich. Great Eastern Hotel. Popula- established the eminence of Norwich,
first
tion 5070. Harwich is situated on a point and there are now numerous factories for
of land cldse to the entrance of the Rivers the production of silk, mohair, and worst-
Stour and Orwell into the German Ocean. ed.
It has an extensive harbor, capable of con- Yarmouth. Population 34.810. Hotelr.,
taining 100 sail of the line. Steamers Rofjal Victoria and A ncfel. Yarmouth is a
leave here daily for Rotterdam, and three sea-port, situated on the east bank of the
times a week for Antwerp, in connection Yare, about twenty miles by rail from Nor-
with the Great Eastern Railway. This is wich, the inhabitants of which are chiefly
the quickest and most direct route for engaged in mackerel, herring, and deep-
reaching German}', and, in case of bad sea fisheries. It is a place of great an-
weather, a couple of days may be passed tiquity. In the tiiirteenth century it was
most pleasantly in Harwich at the Great inclosed liy a wall, with ten gates and six-
Eastern Hotel, a fine building belonging teen towers, of which the remains may still
to the railway company. be seen. The present town, however, ex-
Continuing our route on the main line tends far beyond this wall. The quay of
from ]Manningtree, in twenty minutes we Yarmouth is considered the finest in the
reach Ipsicich, a town of 37,950 inhabitants, ;
kingdom, and forms a fashionable and
which may also be reached by boat fiom agreeable promenade more thin a mile in
Harwich. This excursion is made more length. The principal buildings are the
for the beauty of the scenery- along the Church of St. Nicholas, founded in 1123,
l)anks of the River Orwell, on which Ips- and containing a fine organ the Town-hall,
;
wich stands, than for any thing of interest Police-court, Theatre, and Library. • On
which the old town contains. From the the South Denes, near Yarmouth, stands a
liver the town appears to form a crescent beautiful column, 140 feet high, in mem-
the streets are narrow and irregular, but ory of Nelson. In the neighborhood also
well paved. The principal buildiugs are Burgh Castle may be visited, one of tho
the Town-hall, built in 1868, with a^coun- most perfect Roman camps in the kingdom.
cil chamber and library each 74 feet lung;
the theatre, wliere Garrick made his debut
in 1741 ; the Corn Exchange, and thirteen
churches. Cardinal Wolsev was born here
231
Cambridge. [ENGLAND.] Thetford.
inhabitants. Hotels, Lamb and Bell. It
ROUTE Xo. 78. I
28 m. fare, b?.
; of carving, and the roof of the nave is cov-
Cambridge is a place of great antiquity, ered with paintings representing the finest
but derives its present celebrity from its subjects in Bible history. Notice also the
university, -nhich embraces seventeen col- Church of the Holy Trinity, formerlv the
leges and halls. The names are, Catha- ;
Lady Chapel, which is attached to the ca-
rine Hall, Christ's College, Clare Hall, !
thedral.
Corpus Christi, Downing, Emmanuel, Gon- From Ely an excursion may be made to
ville and Caius, Jesus, King's, Queen's, Lynn Regis, situated on the banks of the
I
Pembroke, Magdalene, St. John's, Peter- Ouse, about eight miles from the sea. Pop-
'
holme, Sidney Sussex, Trinity, and Trin- ulation 16,170. This is a clean, well-built
'
ity Hall. This university was, by some ac- toAvn, divided into several parts by small
counts, founded as far back as 630. Peter- streams called fleets. The harbor is rather
holme, the oldest college, dates from 1257. difficult of access, but is capable of con-
The first charter extant was granted by taining 300 sail. The principal buildings
Edward I. Trinity College, the first of the are the Exchange, Guildhall, and St. Mar-
university, was founded by Henry YIIL, garet's Church, one of the largest in En-
and enlarged b}- Queen Mary. Since the gland. Eugene Aram, Bulwer's hero, was
time of Elizabeth it has been customary usher in the grammar-school of Lynn Regis
for the master of Trinity to entertain the in 1759, when apprehended for murder.
sovereign when on a visit to Cambridge. Gray Friar's Lantern, a tower of six sides
Sir Isaac Newton, Bacon, Raleigh, Dryden, and ninety feet high, is a fine piece of an-
Cowley, and Lord Byron were members of tiquity. It was built about 1260.
Trinity-. Continuing our route from Ely, we pass
There was a castle built here b}' Wil- through Brandon, celebrated for the war-
liam the Conqueror, but nothing now re- rens in its vicinity, one of which sends
mains but its gate-house. The entire town about 40,000 rabbits to London annually.
of Cambridge is embosomed in woods, and Thetford is the next place of importance
but little of it can be seen at a distance. •passed. Near the station, on the Suffolk
It contains a population of 28,000. The side of the Lesser Ouse, are remains of a
principal hotels are University Arms, Red priory founded by Roger Bigod in 110-1
Lion, Bidl. and Woolpacl-. Visit the mag- the same monks afterward removed to the
nificent Senate-house belonging to the uni- Norfolk side, where rums also remain.
versity, Fitzwilliam Museum, Observato- Thomas Howard, second Duke of Norfolk
r}', and Botanical Gardens. The principal and victor at Flodden Field, was buried
churches are All Saints", Great St. Mary's, here. Thetford was one of the earliest
and Great St. Stephen's. The last con- and most important settlements in the east-
tains a tomb erected in honor of Captain ern counties, and Avas the chief residence
Cook. The town is supplied with water of the East Anglian kings. Even in the
conveyed by an aqueduct from a fountain reign of Edward III. it boasted twenty-
three miles distant. It is indebted for four main streets, twenty churches, and
this improvement to a celebrated horse- eight monasteries but now it is little more
;
hirer named Hobson, Avho insisted, when than a large village, containing nothing of
hiring horses to the students, that they particular interest.At Wymondham Junc-
should take them in order, which gave tion a linebranches off from the Norwich
rise to the famous proverb of " Hobson' road to Wells. Passing through Elmham
choice." and Ryburgh, which contains a fine church,
The distance from London to Ely is 72 we reach Fakenham, chiefly celebrated for
'
miles. Ely is built on the banks of the its corn -market. The church is a large
|
Ouse, in the Isle of Elv, and contains 7428 building with a tower, dating from the reign
i
232
C A M BR D G E
I
Wells. [ENGLAND.] Newark.
ofHenry VI.,in honor of whom a light was of that name, on Easter-Monday '•
First ;
fonnerly kept burning within the hiiilding. Spring," the following Monday fortnight;
Wells is u small trading -port, with a " Second Spring,"' two weeks later; ''the
harbor capai)le of receiving vessels of 200 July," early in that month; "1st Octo-
tons, and contains 34Gi inhabitants. The ber;" "2d October;" "3d October," or
only object of interest in the town is the the "Houghton" meeting. The first and
church, in the Perpendicular style, which last of these are the most celebrated.
has been very fine. JIalkham, the resi- Bury St. Edmunds contains 13,318 inhab-
dence of the Earl of Leicester, is usualh'' itants. Hotel, Angel. The former impor-
visited from Wells. It is about tliree mileg tance of this town was entirely owing to
distant the gardens are to be seen on
;
its famous abbey, the shrine of St. Edmund
Tuesdays during the summer, but tlie house (a king of East Anglia, killed by the Danes
can not be visited except by special order. in 870), of which there are still some exist-
The park, nine miles in circuit, contains ing remains. This shrine was, before the
—
about 3200 acres 1000 of which are wood- Dissolution, the chief religious centre of
land. The trees were chiefly planted by Eastern England, and was resorted to by
tlic first Earl of Leicester, who witnessed many royal pilgrims. The abbey gate now
the launching of a ship at Lynn built of forms the gateway of the Botanic Gardens, a
oak from the acorns he himself had plant- pleasant place of resort, which partly occu-
ed. Near the house is a fine lake about a pies the site of the great court of the abbey,
mile long, close to which flocks of sheep and throughout which fragments of the
and herds of bullocks may be seen grazing ancient buildings lie scattered. Near St.
— a portion of the park consisting of past- James's Church, a fine building, is an old
ure-land, and tlie remainder abounding in Norman tower, erected in 1090 ; this was
game. The grand approach to the house restored in 18-18, at a cost of £4000.
is on the south, through a triumphal arch,
the first work erected on the estate (in London to Hull, via Huntingdon, Peterbor'
1729), may be seen. Opposite the house is ough, Newark, and Doncaster, from King's
the Leicester Monument, erected in 1845-48. Cross. Time, 10 h. 47 m. fare, £1 10s. 6rf.
;
and Trent, Hull is an important sea-port, 77,636 inhabitants. Hotels Royal, in the
:
its custom-house duties amounting annu- town, first-class ; and Midland, at the sta-
ally to £500,000. Wilberforce was a na- tion, good. This commercial town is noted
tive of Hull ; a column founded in his for its silk, woolen, and cotton stockings
honor on the 1st of August, 1834, the day also for its marble and porcelain Avorks.
of negro emancipation, stands near the The first silk-mill in England was built
Prince's Bridge. The seat of Washing- here in 1718, and it is now the most
ton's ancestors. South Cave, may be visited extensive in the kingdom. There is a
from Hull. They emigrated to the United fine park for the recreation of the inhab-
States in the 17th centur}'. There is a itants,
portrait of Washington at Cave Castle. Sheffield is a dingy manufacturing city,
with little to see but the immense cutlery
KOUTE No. SO. establishments. Persons interested in man-
London to Scarborough, via Bedford, Lei- ufactures had better visit it. It contains
cester, Derby, Sheffield, aad York, from St. 150,000 inhabitants, and is about 162 miles
Pancras Station by the Midland Railway. from London by the Great Northern Rail-
Time, 8 hrs. 46 min. fare, £2 lOrf.
; way. Principal hotels, Royal and Albion.
Bedford, situated on both banks of the The principal buildings are the Town-hall,
River Ouse, is about fifty miles from Lon- Cutler's Hall, Assembly Rooms, Corn Ex-
don. It is a place of great antiquity. It change, and Shrewsbur}-- Hospital. There
contains a population of 13,413. Hotels, are also a theatre, music-hall, and public
George and Swan. There are several baths.
churches in Bedford among the most in-
;
may still be seen, including the Jerve}'^ is said to' date back nearly a thousand
v/^all, out of which the Church of St.Nich- vcars before Christ. During the time of
234
V Q R K
\'i^!ia^>^r
York. [ENGLAND.] Scarborough.
the Romans, A.D. 150, it was the capital of in the church. From Paulinus, who was
Britain. It is appointed archbishop uf York in G25, down
inclosed by ancient walls sup-
posed to have been erected in 1280 by Ed- to the present time, York has had no less
ward I. They now form a most delightful than ninety-two arclil;ishops. It is also
promenade around the city. Constantine the only city except London which boasts
the Great is said by some authors to have a lord mayor. York Castle, erected by
been bom here in 272, but all evidence of William I., is another object of interest.
this fact is involved in obscurit}' his fa- It is now used as a jail, and includes the
:
ther, Constantius, died here in 307. The courts of law. The only part which re-
IJomans removed entirel}' from the island tains the appearance of an ancient castle
in 430, leaving the Britons at the mercy of is the keep, or Clifford's Tower, a pictur-
tiv3 Picts and Scots. These, however, were esque ruin overgrown with trees and ivy.
finally defeated, in a battle near York, by the Among the objects of interest to be visited
aid of the Saxons, who immediately turned at York are the ruins of St. ^Mary's Abbey,
their arms against those whom they had founded in 1094 by three Benedictines on
come to succor, and, after a series of strug- ground granted them by the Earl of Rich-
gles, became masters of the country, and mond. The abbey-church is the principal
established the Heptarchv. York was the of the existing ruins. Near the river is
capital of the part called Deira. On the the Hospitium or guest-hall of the ancient
23d of September, 10G6, the battle of Stam- monastery. Here are arranged some in-
ford Bridge was fought near York, which teresting antiquities found in York and its
preceded by only a few days the landing neighborhood. Near the Hospitium is a
of William the Norman in England. Here Roman cemeterj', discovered in 1873 in
I
Harold defeated Harfagar, king of Nor- choosing the route of the Northeastern
'
way, who had invaded England and taken Railway. Among the public buildings
possession of York. Harold entered York worthy of notice are Guildhall, contain-
in triumph ; but, hearing almost immedi- ing a memorial window to the late prince
ately of the landing of the Duke of Nor- consort; the Assembly Rooms, Music Hall,
mandy, he hastened with his forces to and the Museum, which contains various
meet him, and, nine days after, his triumph Roman and Saxon remains. York is fa-
at Stamford Bridge lost his crown and life mous for its cure of hams.
at the battle of Hastings. York was com- A few miles west of the city is Marstcn
pelled to bo^v to the conqueror, and was Moor, the scene of one of the principal en-
garrisoned by Norman soldiers but, hav- gagements between the armies of Charles
;
ing thrown off its yoke and massacred the I. and the Parliament. Farther to the
garrison, it was besieged by William, and southeast is the village of Lowton, where a
obliged to surrender on account of famine, sanguinary battle was fought during the
when it was razed to the ground. The War of the Roses.
Cathedral was founded by Edwin, king of
Northumberland, in G25, but was princi-
pally erected in the 13th and 14th centu-
ries, and, although composed of five diflfer-
ent styles of Gothic architecture, such care
was taken in uniting the several parts that
the whole edifice appeared as one design.
It consists of a nave and two aisles, a tran-
sept with aisles, a choir with aisles, ves- Scarborough, one of England's most cele-
tries, chapels, chapter-house, and vestibule. brated watering-places, is one hour and a
Its length is 524 feet, the second longest in quarter from York, and is well worth a visit.
England length of transept, 222 length The best hotels are the Grand, Crown, and
; ;
the sands, forms a delightful marine prom- Parliament, on a hill in the Park, now
enade. A
handsome iron bridge, 414 feet called Standard Hill. Newstead Abbey,
in length, connects the dissevered cliffs, formerly the seat of Lord Byron, is about
and is one of the greatest ornaments of the eleven miles distant from Nottingham.
town. The springs of Scarborough are •' Newstead fast falling, once resplendent dome
I
facing the sea is covered Avith a veranda, '• lliiil to thy pile! more honor'd.in thy fall
on wliich seats are placed, and these are Than modern mansions in their pillai-'d state;
always filled, while a crowd of saunterers Proudly majestic frowns thy vaulted hall,
Scowling defiance on the blast of fate.
in double file are passing each other on
'•Newstead! what saddening change of scene is
the promenade. In the gardens the band thine
plays twice a day, sheltered by an orna- Thy yawning arch betokens slow decay;
mental kiosk much resembling in form tlie The last and youngest of a noble line
the Romans, is about one hour's distance Sheffield to Great Grimsby, via Gains-
from Nottingham by rail, and contains h r ugh, bv rail. Time, 3 hrs. lOmin. ; fare,
20,999 inhabitants. ^Hotels, Great North- 8s. -Id.
ern and Saracen's Head. castle was A Sheffield, see Route No. 80.
erected here in 1086 by William the Con- Passing through Retford, a town re-
queror, the remains of which are still to turning two members to Parliament, which
be seen in the town. The Cathedral is carries on a considerable trade in hops and
the principal building of interest in the manufacturers' paper, sail-cloth, etc., we
town it is situated on the summit of a hill
: reach Gainshoroiifjh. This town, which
commanding a good view of the town, and consists of one long street running paral-
was first founded during the reign of lel Avith the River Trent, on the right bank
William Rufus it was reconstructed un-
; of which it is situated, twenty-one miles
der Henry II., and dedicated to the Virgin above that river's junction with the Hum-
Mary, and, besides the beauties visible in ber, contains a population of 6320. Be-
its choir, screen, Lady-chapel, and circular sides a church dating from 1748 and the
windows, it contains many fine and inter- town-hall, there is an interesting ancient
esting monuments. The Great Tom, or building called the Old Hall, formerly sur-
celebrated bell of this cathedral, is only rounded by a moat, and composed of oak-
exceeded in size by two others in the king- timber framing. The river admits vessels
dom — the "Mighty Tom" of Oxford, of from 150 to 200 tons, by means of which
weighing 7 tons 15 cwt., and the Great a considerable inward and coasting trade
Tom of Exeter, which weighs 6 tons. The is carried on.
bell of Lincoln was first cast in 1610, but Great Grimsby is an hour and a half dis-
having cracked in 1627, it was broken and tant i\on\ Gainsborough by rail. It is an
recast with six others into the present ancient town of some importance, which
bell— weighing 5 tons 8 cwt., 6 feet lOi formerly went by the name of Gryme, and
—
inches in diameter and two quarter bells Avhich was able to furnish 11 vessels and
which were hung in the central tower in 170 mariners to Edward III. for his expe-
1835. In the cloisters on the north side dition against Calais. The town now con-
of the cathedral a Roman pavement is pre- tains 15,060 inhabitants, and carries on a
served — indeed, the city abounds in Roman considerable trade by means of the River
antiquities as well as interesting architect- Humber, near which it is situated. Ware-
ural and monastic remains ; of these, the houses and timber-yards are numerous,
Newport Gate is one of the finest speci- and the new docks, commenced in 1840. are
mens of Roman architecture to be found in very fine. The principal church is that
England, The churches of Lincoln at the of St. James's, with a beautiful steeple and
time of the Reformation were about fifty some ancient monuments.
in number ; they are now redu<^ed to four- Great Grimsbv is connected with Peter-
237
Louth. [ENGLAND.] BiPON.
are also manufactured. In addition to the the great hall, one of the largest rooms in
session house, guildhall, and assembly the kingdom, capable of holding 8000 per-
rooms, there is a fine church (St. James's), sons. In the centre of the room is a statue
possessing an elegant tower and spire 288 of the queen in white marble. There is
feet in height, also a fine organ and a bronze bust of the'
Boston contains 17,893 inhabitants. It Duke of Wellington. The building was
derives its name from St. Botolph's Monas- opened by the queen in 1858 on her visit
tery, built here in 654, and destroyed by to Leeds. Near Leeds are the ruins of
the Danes in 870. St. Botolph's Church, Kirkstall Abbey, which will well repay a
built in 1309, is the principal object of in- visit. The abbey was founded in the 12th
terest. It is a spacious building, measur- century by Henry de Lacy for monks of
ing 245 feet in length and 98 in width, with the Cistercian order. The tower, doorway,
a tower visible at sea for nearly forty miles and other remains are covered with ivy.
this tower has a lantern-shaped top, and is Twenty-one miles from Leeds is the village
about 800 feet high. Boston carries on a of Haworth, the place of residence of Char-
considerable trade in timber, hemp, tar, lotte, Anne, and Emily Bronte, authoresses
and iron it is connected by means of
; of "Jane Eyre," "Villette," "Wuthering
canals with Derby, Nottingham, Gains- Heights," etc.
borough, and Lincoln, and has railway North AUerton passed before reaching
is
communication with all parts of the king- Durham. Near town the celebrated
this
dom. battle of the Standard was fought in 1138,
when David, King of Scotland, and his
forces suffered defeat.
Durham stands on a rocky eminence
nearly surrounded by the River Wear.
Population 14,088. This city is princi-
pally visited for its Cathedral, one of the
finest in England. A church was first
built on the site of the cathedral, at the
end of the 10th by the monks of
centur\',
Lindisfarne, who
rested here with the re-
mains of St. Cuthbert. The present build-
ROUTE No. 83. ing was begun in 1093, and is built chiefly
London Edinburgh, via Beririclc-upon-
to in the Norman st^-le. It is in the form of
Tweed, through Doncaster^ Leeds, Durham, a cross, 420 feet long and 92 high. Dur-
and Xeiccastle, by rail. Time,9 hrs. 30 min. ham Castle was first built by William the
fare, £3 10s. Conqueror, and has been until recently
For distance from London to Doncaster, the residence of the Bishops of the Palati-
see Route No. 79. nate. It consists of a large, solid keep,
Leeds, the principal seat of woolen man- and a great hall 180 feet in length. It is
ufacture in England, and the fifth town in now occupied by the University, which
size and commercial prosperity, is about was opened in 1832. About a mile west
eleven miles from Bradford. It is beau- Durham is Neville's Cross, where David
of
tifully situated on the banks of the Aire, Bruce was defeated in 1346.
and contains nearly 236,000 inhabitants. Ripon is 24 miles from Leeds. Hotels,
The principal hotels are the Great North- Unicorn, Croiim, and Anchor. The great
ern and Queen's. Leeds is irregularly built, object of interest in Ripon is the Cathedral,
and the streets are narrow and crooked. the first stone of Avhich was laid in 1331
Besides the production of woolen goods, the building was not finished, however,
Leeds has many large establishments for until more than a century later. Under
233
Shrewsbury I
BiUtizujton^ ^i^^'4''^f^Ti
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,
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\U'onci'.sieA St.-aifyrd
Chrdiffctn' Tin^ori-
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nan.m>or^(7i
iilol y^Swindoii \ LONDOI
Harper's Haiui-Book..
Newcastle-upox-Tyke. [ENGLAND.] Berwick-upok-Twled.
the cathedral is a small Saxon chapel, be the finest in the kingdom. Of the
called St. Wilfrid's Needle, after the found- churches, St. Nicholas's, a Gothic cross
er of the original minster. Three miles with a beautiful spire, and St. Andrew's,
and a half from Kipon are Studley Royal \
of Norman architecture, are the finest.
and Fountain Abbey, the property of Lord Of the old castle, the keep, 80 feet high,
De Grey and Ripon. The latter is perhaps now used as a prison, and the beautiful
the finest ruin in England, covering two Norman chapel, still remain. Gateshead,
acres of ground, though it formerly ex- on the opposite bank of tlie Tyne, is a sub-
tended over ten acres. The abbey was urb of Newcastle. They are connected by
erected in 1132 by monks of the Cistercian the High-Level Bridge, a splendid iron
order; eight years later it was burned structure 1400 feet long, the work of Rob-
down, but Avas speedily rebuilt, and became ert Stephenson.
one of the wealthiest monasteries in the A
short distance out of our route to Ber-
kingdom. The tower and the walls, built wick is Alnwick Castle, the residence of the
in the Gothic style, are still standing, the Duke of Northumberland. This building
roof alone having gone to ruin. The do- belonged to a Saxon l)aron, slain at the
main of Studley is open to the public every battle of Hastings, and has been in the pos-
week-day until five o'clock. The house session of the Percy family since the be-
contains a fine collection of paintings. At ginning of the 14th centur}'. The build-
Newby Hall, also the property of the Earl ing has lately been restored and fitted up
De Grey, four miles from llipon, there is in the most magnificent style. In the
the finest private collection of statuary to grounds, which are very beautiful, are the
be seen in the United Kingdom. ruins of two ancient abbeys, Alnwick and
Neiccostle-upon-Tf/ne is situated on the Hulme, the former founded in 1147, the lat-
north bank of the Kiver TA-ne, about ten ter in 1240. Six miles distant are tho
miles above its mouth. It has a popula- ruins of Wamuortk Casile, also belonging
tion of 145,228. This place derives its ori- to the Percy family. This building is
gin from the Roman station Pons ^'Eii, the very large, and the walls in many places
second from the eastern extremity of Ha- entire. The famous hermitage.where one
drian's Wall. It was called Monkchester of the Bertrams of Bothal-Bothal passed
before the Conquest, owing to the number his life in penance for the murder of his
of its monasteries. The castle erected brother, is half a mile distant.
here by Robert, son of William the Con- Benrick-vpon -Tweed, sixty-three miles
queror, gave it its present name. Along from Newcastle, stands on the border of
the banks of the river, where most of the England, and during the Border Wars was
business is carried on, the streets and continually taken and retaken both by
houses are dim and dingy, but in the cen- Scotch and English. It was made inde-
tre of the town all this has been swept pendent of both countries by Henry VIII.
awa}', and magnificent streets and squares Here Baliol was crowned King of Scotland
have been erected in their place. This great by Edward I., and here also he shut up
change is owing to Mr. Grainger, a native the Countess of Buchan for six years, in a
of the tov>-u. Newcastle is chiefly occu- wicker cage.
pied in the shjnment of coals, of which Edinburgh is reached from Berwick in
three milli(> r- of cons are shipped annual- 1 hr. 35 min., and Glasgow in 3 hrs. 30
ly. Newcastle has been the scene of min.
many interesting events David I. of Scot-
:
cipal buildings of interest arc the Ex- London Liverpool and ^fanck^sie?; fia
(o
change, Guildhall, Post-ofiice, and the Riigb'Jn Stafford, and Crewe, by rail from
Market-house, 240 feet long, and said to Euston Square and the London and North-
28i)
KUGBY. [ENGLAND.] Liverpool.
western Eailway to Liverpool in 5 hours tions in the world, an immense establish-
fare, £1 155. ; to Manchester in 4 hrs. 40 ment for the fabrication of every thing
min. ; fare, £1 125. 6(f. ; Crewe to Manches- necessar}^ on the railways. The town de-
ter, 50 m.; thence to Liverpool, 65 m. rives its name from Crewe Hall, the seat
Rnghj is principally famous for its gram- of Lord Crewe, situated at a short distance
mar-school, founded durinj? the reign of from the station. Station Hotel.
Elizaheth by Lawrence Sheriff. It has
since become one of the finest in the king- Manchester, the great cotton capital 366,-
;
dom, owing principally to the exertions of 836 inhabitants, with its suburb Salford.
the late celebrated scholar, Dr. Arnold. A Hotels, Queen's and Grand.
mile and a half from Rugby is Bilton Hall, Manchester is situated on the River Tr-
formerly the residence of Addison. Addi- well, an afiiuent of the Mersey, and is con-
son's Walk, a long avenue in the garden, nected with Salford by six bridges. One
was so called from having been his favor- of them, the Victoria, is very handsome.
ite promenade. Three hours to Liverpool. It contains many interesting buildings, the
Coventry, about twelve miles from Rug- principal of whichare the CathedralChurch
by (out of our direct route), is a city of great of St. Marj-'s, an ancient Gothic structure
antiquity. Population 41,647. Coventry containing numerous monuments, with sev-
takes its name, like Covent Garden in Lon- eral chapels highly ornamented. St. Mary's
don, from a monastery founded by Leofric Chapel, and that of the Derby famih*, are
the Saxon, and his wife Godiva, in the most deserving of notice. The Exchange,
11th centur}'. The story is well known Town -hall. Museum of Natural History,
of Godiva's riding naked through the town Commercial Rooms, and New Bailey Pris-
to take away a heavy tax from the people. on, all deserve particular attention. The
The Miracle Plays were acted here by the Botanical Garden, and Peel and Victoria
Gray Friars at the feast of Corpus Christi, Parks, are the principal places of recrea-
and were often witnessed by Henry VI. tion for the inhabitants. The great lions
Coventry carries on a large trade in watch- of the place are the immense cotton mills,
es and ribbons, of which it is the seat of which send out yearly 125,000,000 lbs. of
manufacture. Hotels King's Head and manufactured cotton goods. Every branch
:
Castle. Two and a half hours to Liverpool. of the cotton manufacture is here carried
Birmingham, 35 minutes on see R. 85. on to an enormous extent. Iron and brass
;
the ancient keep may still be seen at Staf- Liverpool is situated on the River Mer-
ford Castle, the seat of Lord Stafford. sey. It is the second city in the kingdom,
StocTcport, the next place of any impor- and contains about 552,425 inhabitants.
tance, is chiefly noted for its cotton man- Principal hotels Adelphi and North West-
:
ufactories. There are between fifty and ern. The Adelphi has been entirely re-
sixt}' factories in and around the town; built, and is now one of the largest in
Marsland's, one of the largest, is 300 feet England, and retains a name not surpassed
long, and has six hundred windows. by any house in Europe it is situated in
;
Crewe, 166 miles from London, is entire- the most fashionable quarter in Liverpool,
ly a town of modern growth, with a popu- and admirably managed b}' Mr. Ludlow.
lation of from 5000 to 6000, composed chief- Liverpool noted for the magnificence of
is
ly of railway ofiicials belonging to the Lon- its docks, which are constructed on a most
don and Northwestern Railwa}'^, Avho have stupendous scale, covering, with the dr}'-
here, in addition to one of the largest junc- docks, 200 acres, with 15 miles of quays.
240
MANCH ESTER
Wi 4r^K
LIVERPOOL
,^''
^'^^^fe
1^^^'
Liverpool. [ENGLAND.] Routes.
Nearly one third of its trade is with the Liverpool io Londondeity (several timei
Cnited States. The cotton which for- each week); fare, $3 12^.
merly arrived here annually amounted to Liverpool to SUgo, calling at Portrush ta
2,500,000 bales. Tiie principal buildings Yisit the Giant's Causeway (weekl v) ; fare,
of Liverpool are the Assize Courts, Cus- $3 12|.
tom-house, St. George's Hall, Exchange, Liverpool to New York: by the In man
and Town-hall, which is a fine Palladian Line, $75 Cunard Line, $130, 8100, and
;
building surmounted by a dome support- 880 National Line, 865, 875, and 8«5
;
;
ing a statue of Britannia. It contains Guion Line, $80; White Star Line, 880.
statues of Koscoe and Canning by Chan- Average time, 10 days. Several of these
trey also a number of portraits.
;
In front lines dispatch two ships weekly.
of St. George's flail stands a fine statue of Liveipoolto Quebec; time, 10 days fare, ;
III. by the same artist. The Collegiate Malta, 860 Algiers, $75.
;
lishments, and there are several others for This line (Burns and Maclver's) also dis-
the encouragement of art and science. The patches steamers to Palermo, ^fessina, Cor-
Derby Museum and Philharmonic Hall are fu, L'atras, Ancona, Trieste, and Venice.
^ell worth a visit. several times each month, via Paris and
St. James's Cemetery, very elegantly Marseilles time, 9 days.;
white stone. Near the entrance is a pretty Liverpool to Bordeaux (weekl}') fare, ;
every form. There are a number of char- Liverpool to Douglas, Isle of ^lan (daily)
itable institutions, many of them of a re- time, 5 hours fare, $1 50. ;This island,
ligious character. There are six theatres situated in the Irish Sea, contains about
in Liverpool in addition to the Amphithea- 500 square miles, and 43,000 inhabitants.
tre and Assembly Rooms. The Wellington Principal places, Douglas, Castleton, and
Rooms, at Mount Pleasant, are large and Mantagne. It was for a long time in the
finely arranged. A drive should be taken possession of the Earls of Derby, then the
through the Prince's, Ncwsome, Stanley, Dukes of Athol, but was purchased by the
and Sefton parks. English government in 1765. It produces
lead, iron, slate, vegetables, and has exten-
sive herring fisheries.
The best and quickest routes from Liv- Liverpool to the Isle of Whithorn ; fare,
erpool to the principal ports of Europe, 82 50.
Asia, Africa, and America : Liverpool to Rio Janeiro (1st, 12th, and
Liverpool io Cork, Ireland (daily) time, 20th of each month),
;
'
Bordeaux, Lisbon, Eio Janeiro, Monte- Many of England's great men were edu-
video, Arica, Islay, and Callao (every cated here among others, we maA' men-
;
via Trieste by the Austrian Llo^'d's steam- Principal hotel, Great Western. It was
ers to Alexandria to Suez by rail, and taken hy the Danes in the 9th century,
;
via the Peninsular and Oriental steamers after they had defeated Alfred the Great.
to Aden, Point de Galle, Calcutta, and The town is situated at the junction of the
Hong Kong fare, 8560. Thames and Kenn:>t. and has a population
—
;
Street; American, Eichardson, Spence, & are left. Archbishop Laud, ]Merriek the
Co., 17 Water Street: Anchor, 17 Water post, Addingt!)n the premier, and Lord
Street National. 23 Y\'ater Street.
: Chincellor Phipps, were all Reading men,
and Avere cducatad in the grammar-school.
Across the river, at a little distance, stood
ROUTE No. 85. Old Caversham House, in which Charles
London to Liverpool, via Reading, Oxford, I. was confined after the affair of Holm-
Leamington, Stratford- on - A von Vurwlcl; by.
, I
Birmingham, Shrewsbury, Chester, and Birk- O.rford is beautifully situated at the con-
enhead, by rail from Paddington. Time, 5 fluence of the Cher well, Thames, and I sis.
hrs.25min.-, fare, £195. Distance, 229 miles. Pop., 31,404. There are two very good
Departures: Paddington, A Ah V.^L; Ox- hotels, the Randolph and the Clnrendon.
ford, SLvriva], G.S Leamington, Q>.b^; Bir- This lAacQ is of very remote antiquit}-,
;
mingham, 1.21; Wolverhampton, 7.49; and is the seat of the most celebrated
Shrewsbury, 8.32 C/iester, 9.35
; Birken- university in the Avorld.
;
It possesses no
242
y Oxford
W^^V^
Blenheim. [ENGLAND.] Leamington
od by Alfred tlie Great, who resided here, I
bles, and will provide carnages for the ex-
lialiol College comes next in antiquity. '
cursion.
Clirist Church College, the largest and The Duke of Marlborough's residence is
I
most magnificent (2o0 pupils), owes its one hour's distance by carriage from the
foundation to Cardinal Wolsey, lo24. The town. This eartlily paradise was erected
hall is one of the finest in the kingdom, I
during the reign of Queen Anne, and pre-
and contains a large collertion of por- sented by the British nation to the great
I
reading and library rooms, a museum, pict- also the monument of Elizabeth's favorite,
ure-gallery, and theatre. Dudley, Earl of Leicester. On a mighty
The views of the Castle of Kenilworth rock, at the base of which flows the Avon,
are the most splendid and magnificent in is situated the celebrated Castle of War.^
the United Kingdom. They are only five wick, protected by embattled walls and
miles from the town of Leamington, and a stupendous towers, covered without with
day may be well spent in their examina- ivy, and within with frescoes and elegant
tion. Sir Walter Scott has immortalized paintings. It is at the present time, not-
their ivy-covered, "cloud-capped towers" withstanding its antiquity, considered one
same name, which e ver}'^
in his novel of the of the most magnificent places in the king-
one who has not read should do before he dom. The exact date of its erection is
visits this glorious ruin. The castle was unknown the most ancient part of the
;
founded by Geoffrey de Clinton, lord cham- structure being Caesar's Tower, 148 feet
berlain to Henrj^ I. Henr}^ III. gave it high. Within every thing is on the grand-
to the famous Simon de Montfort, Earl of est scale the principal suite of apartments
;
Leicester, After this nobleman took up extends 334 feet in a straight line, and is fill-
arms against the king, it was the favorite ed with paintings and other works of ait in ;
resort of his insurgent friends. After the the armory many curious relics are shown.
earl had fled to France, the rebels held out The views from Guy's Tower, 128 feet high,
six months against the entire forces of the erected in 1394, are very fine. The cele-
kingdom. Edward H.Avas imprisoned here. brated antique vase found in the Emperor
In the reign of Edward I., the Earl of Lei- Adrian's villa at Tivoli, and known as the
cester held a tournament here, which was "Warwick Vase," may be seen in the
attended by one hundred knights and their greenhouse it is capable of holding one
;
ladies. In the reign of Edward III. it hundred and sixty-eight gallons. Guy's
came into possession of the famous John Clift* should be visited it is on!}' a short
:
of Gaunt, Edward's third son, who be- distance from the castle here the famous
:
queathed it to his son Henry Bolingbroke, Earl Gu)"- and his wife are buried.
afterward Henry IV., after which it re- Stratford-on-Avon, celebrated as the
mained the property of the crown until birthplace of AVilliara Shakspeare, lies
Elizabeth presented it to her favorite, Dud- eight miles southwest of Warwick. Prin-
ley, Earl of Leicester, who entertained the cipal Hotel, Red Horse, where the traveler
virgin queen here in 1566, 15G8, and 1575. may well put up for a day or two. This
The "royal progress" of Queen Bess is house is known as the Washington Irving
described by Scott. It is said that Leices- Hotel, that author having stopped here.
ter spent $85,000 in seventeen daj^s' enter- In the parlor is a chair with his name en-
tainment, which is equivalent to half a graved on a brass phite also his poker, ;
million at the present time. The castle Geoffrey's sceptre, to whicli he alludes in
was plundered b}^ the soldiers of Cromwell. his Sketch-book, The house in which the
After the Restoration, it was presented to "immortal bard" was born has been pur-
Sir Edward Hyde by Charles II., who also chased by subscription, and a memorial
created him Earl of Clarendon and Baron building and theatre erected. The room
of Kenilworth, in whose family it has re- in which the poet is said to have been born
mained to the present day. is in its original state. There are deeds
Two miles to the west of Leamington is in the museum (situated in the house, ad-
Warwick, situated on the east bank of the mission sixpence) which prove that his
Avon. It is principally noted for its his- father resided in this house. In one of the
torical associations and famous ancient cas- upper rooms is the " Stratford portrait" of
tle, the magnificent residence of the Earl the author, and it is of undoubted authen-
of Warwick. The principal object of in- ticit}-, having been in Mr. Hunt's family
terest in the town is the Church of St. for over a century. Among the leading
Mary's, which contains many magnificent relics in the museum we enumerate the
monuments that of Richard Beauchamp,
; following: Deed made in 1596, proving
Earl of Warwick, next to the monument that John Shakspeare, father of the poet,
of Henry VIL, in Westminster Abbey, is resided in the house called the Birthplace ;
considered the finest in England. Here is the celebrated Letter from Mr. Richard
244
R M tl\j GH A M
i5h
nr/^<=.
fV 'M^^%--
A
Birmingham. [ENGLAND.] Shuiowsbury,
following verse, written by Lucien Bona- of the lock trade, tin and iron goods, papier-
parte during his visit to the spot, and mache and japanned articles are manufact-
which hangs framed in the Museum :
ured, and there are also extensive chem-
ical and galvanizing works. The Church
"The eye of genius glistens to admire of St. Peter, near the market-place, is the
How memory hails the sound of Shak- principal building of interest. It was be-
speare's lyre gun during the reign of Edward III., but
One tear I'll shed to form a crystal shrine
For all that's grand, immortal, or divine." parts — the tower and consistory — were
not completed until the end of the 15th
The church in Avhich Shakspeare's re- century. Notice within the church the
mains are preserved is delightfully situated west Avindow, dedicated to the memory of
on the banks of the Avon, and is approached the late Duke of Wellington aIso a stone
;
by a fine avenue of lime-trees. In the chan- pulpit, richly sculptured with a grotesque
cel is a bust of the poet, in front of which animal at the foot of the staircase, dating
he and his wife are buried. There is a fine from 1480. The Exchange, Library, Thea-
statue of Shakspeare in the Town-hall in tre, St. George's Hall, Agricultural Hall,
High Street. There are also, in the same and Market-hall are among the principal
hall, excellent portraits of Shakspeare, I
public buildings. An equestrian statue
Garrick, and the Duke of Dorset. About !
of Prince Albert, by Thornycroft, occupies
one mile from the town is the cottage of '
tion of 22,163. Hotels, Lmn and George. ing, three miles from Chester, and contains
Among the principal buildings are the some magnificent paintings.
Town-hall, the Marlvet-house, the County Chester is the centre of numerous im-
Hall, the Church of the Holy Cross, and portant lines of railwaj^s, the principal of
the Grammar-school, founded by Edward which are the London and Northwestern (5
YI. There is a delightful promenade along hrs. 20 m. from London) the Great West-
;
the banks of the Severn called St. Chad's ern 4hrs. 50 m.); and the Chester and
Walk, or the Quariy. The river is crossed Holyhead, 84 miles from the latter, which
is connected with Dublin by powerful steam
by two fine bridges. Four miles from
Shrewsbury, at Battle-field Church, is the packets. By this road you cross the Tu-
Gpot where the famous battle took place bular Bridge over the Menai Straits.
between Hotspur and Henry IV. in liOS. Birkenhead., 15| miles distant from Ches-
The ruins of Haughmond Abbey, founded ter, has become within the last twent}-^
may be seen under the house of Syrton side, stage every ten minutes. Ferry-boats
& Groome. Tlie great novelty of the cross the Mersey ever}' 5 minutes to Liver-
town of Chester is its angular -looking pool (fare, 1(Z.), landing passengers at the
liouses, with sidewalks for foot-passengers ]
foot of Water street, whence cabs, omni-
on their roofs these are covered with
;
buses, and horse-cars to all the hotels
galleries, for the purpose of protecting the cab fare, Is.
promenaddr from the rain. At the cross- Liverpool, ?ec Route No. 84.
streets, however, you have to descend and
ascend each time. The carriage-way of
the principal streets is sunk several feet
below the original level. The Cathedral
is a venerable structure. It was built on
ROUTE No. 86.
tains a very large collection of modern fire- Matlock, a watering-place of much in-
arms. terest, is situated on the Derwcnt River,
Eaton Hall, the residence of the Duke and enjoys a pure and bracing climate.
of Westminster, is a beautiful Gotliic build- Hotel the New Bath Hotel, in delightful
:
24G
RowsLEY Station. [ENGLAND.] BUXTOX.
the Duke of Devonshire. Tliis is consid- recommended for rheumatism and chronic
ered the finest place belonging to any pri- gout, and are yearly visited b}- from 12.000
vate individual in the world, and is most to 14,000 visitors. The season is from Juno
certainly the finest in England. William to October. The principal group of l)uild-
the Conqueror gave this vast domain to ings at Buxton is the Crescent, built by the
his natural son, William Peveril. In the Duke of Devonshire. Hotels: St. Ann's
reign of Elizabeth it was purchased by Sir and Roiial. The St. Ann's is a verv good
William Cavendish. The first Duke of house of many years' standing, and exceed-
Devonshire commenced the present build- ingl}'^ well patronized. The new Great
ing in 1706. The park belonging to the Livery Stables in connection enable vis-
palace comprises 2000 acres, in which, it is itors to make numerous excursions in the
said, there are over 800 doer. The build- neighborhood. The Rin/al is also a first-
ing is of a quadrangular form, with an class house, new and elegantly furnished,
open court in the middle, in the centre of and in a sheltered position near the l)atlis
which is a splendid fountain, with a statue and gardens. Close by is the Old Hall,
of the god Arion seated on the back of a built by tlie Earl of Shrcwsbuiy during the
dolphin. The interior of the palace is reign of Elizabetli, where Mary, Queen of
adorned with every thing that untold Scots, was for some time kept in custody.
wealth and refined taste could procure. Her apartments are still shown to visitors.
Many of tlie rooms are hung with tapestry Among the excursions from Buxton is
and ornamented with carvings, while all that to Pool's Hole, a cavern named after
the pictures are gems of art. The en- a celelirated robber who once occupied it.
trance-hall is a grotto of magnificent mar- Diamoufl Hill, which takes its name from
ble, filled with pictures and curiosities of beautiful specimens of quartz crystal found
the rarest value. The picture-gallery and here, is not far distant. The walk to Chee
the gallery of statuary contain many gems Tor should not be omitted : this is a mas3
247
Tamworth. [ENGLAND.] Abergele.
of rocks three hundred feet high, overlook- watering-place, and one of the best bath-
ing the Kiver Wye, from which a most ing-places in Wales. It is situated at the
glorious view may be obtained. The drives entrance of the celebrated Vale of Clwyd,
and excursions in the vicinity are numer- and from here Snowdon may be seen. Ho-
ous, Parade and Belvoir. The ruins of
tels,
Bakewell, an ancient town, a mile and Rhuddlan, built in 1015, lie just below the
a half from Haddon Hall, can be visited town, and present a magnificent appear-
from Buxton also f/cirtingiton, on the Dove,
;
ance. Richard II. was brought here on
Ludchurch and its '^castle cliffs,'''' Poole's his way to Flint Castle. The Choydian
Cavern, MiUers Dale, and Tideswell, with Hills rise left of Rhyl, crowned by the re-
its ancient cathedral, give occasion for beau- nowned range of British Posts. From
tiful drives of great interest. Rhyl a branch line of railway runs to St.
Stockport, see Route No. 84. Asaph and Denbigh. St. Asaph is situated
Manchester, see Eoute No. 84. near the confluence of the Rivers Clwyd
and Elwy. Hotel, Mostyn Arms. Popu-
ROUTE No. 87. lation 2063. St. Asaph is generally visit,
London to Dublin, via Eiiffbij, Tamworth, ed for its cathedral, which is verj- ancient,
Crewe, Chester. Bangor, and llohjhead, by having been built as early as 596 by St.
the London and Northwestern Railway Asaph, and made entirely of wood. It
from Euston Station. Time, 11 hrs. 5 min. was rebuilt, however, in 1770, in the form
fare, £3. of a cross, with a square tower at the in-
Rufjhy, see Route No. 84, tersection of the transepts and nave. The
The town of Tamworth, which contains painted windows are very fine, resembling
some 8000 inhabitants, is noted for its an- those of Tintern Abbey. There are sev-
cient castle, which is situated on an artifi- eral interesting tombs, among others that
cial height near the town. It was present- of Bishop Barrow, uncle of the celebrated
ed by William the Conqueror to Robert de Isaac Barrow. Continuing our route from
Marmion, of Fontenoy, one of whose de- St. Asaph, we reach Denbigh, eleven miles
scendants Sir Walter Scott has immortal- from Rhyl, which has a population of 5946.
ized. Sir Robert Peel represented Tam- Hotels, Bull and Crown. This toM'n lies
worth in Parliament for a long time, and a on the side of a rocky eminence, the sum-
fine statue of him, by Noble, stands in the mit of which is crowned b}- the ruins of a
market-place. The church also contains castle built during the reign of Edward I.
a monument to his memory'. Hotels, Peel This castle underwent a siege during the
A rms and White Horse. Parliamentar}' Wars, and after the resto-
Crewe, see Route No. 84, and Chester, ration of Charles II. was blown up with
see Route No. 85, are passed in succession. gunpowder. The prospect from the ruins
Leaving Chester b}^ the Holyhead Rail- is extensive and beautiful. Returning to
way, and crossing the River Dee, we enter Rhyl, and continuing along the main line,
Wales, where the first station of impor- we pass, before reaching Abergele, the spot
tance is Flint. This town is about 13 miles where the battle of Rhuddlan Marsh took
from Chester, and contains a population of place in 785, Aberge'e, 4^ miles from
3428. The inhabitants are chiefly em- Rhyl, contains a population of 3308, and is
ploj'ed in the coal and lead mines in the much frequented during the bathing sea-
neighborhood, and large quantities of coal son. Hotel, Bee. The scenery in the
are shipped yearly to Liverpool and Ire- neighborhood is magnificent. Two miles
land. Flint Castle is situated on a rock distant from the town is Cave Hill, or
jutting into the sea, and is now entirely in Cefnyr-Ogo, in Avhich is a fine natural
ruins; Richard II. was a prisoner here. cavern. The entrance somewhat resem-
Four miles from Flint we arrive at Holy- bles a Gothic arch the interior is divided
;
tcell, Avhich derives its name from a spring into two chambers by a wall of limestone
called St. Winifred's Well. This far-famed one of these is small, the other stretches
well is deserving of a visit: its architect- far into the mountain. Stalactites sparkle
ure is fine, and as a cold bath it is unequal- on the roof and walls, and beautifully-
ed. Population of Holywell, 5335. Thir- formed stalagmites cover the ground.
teen miles distant is hhyl, a fashionable Near by is the Welsh Thermopylae, the
248
Conway. [ENGLAND.] Bangor.
pass of Cefn-Ogo. Here the Welsh de- Hookes, whose father had 41 children, and
feated Harold, and later slaughtered the he himself was father of 27. A pleasant
troops of Henry II. and here iJicIiard II,
; excursion may be made from (Jonway to
Avas betrayed by Percy, Earl of Northum- the ruins of Gannock Castle.
berland, into the power of Bolingbroke, Llandudno, about ^\ miles from Conway,
and conveyed a prisoner to Flint Castle. has become, of late years, a great place of
Not far from the pass is Gwryck Castle, summer resort. It is situated on a prom-
the seat of li. B. Hesketh, Esq., a vast pic- ontory between the Bays of Conway and
turesque building, surrounded by beautiful Llandudno, and is protected from the north
grounds, which are liberallj' opened to vis- winds by a huge promontory called the
itors. British and Roman camps are also Great Orme's Head. Population 2316.
to be seen in the vicinity of Abergele. In Hotels, Adelphi, Queen's, and St. George's.
August, 1868, a frightful railway accident The Great Onne's Head is the favorite
occurred near Abergele, when 33 persons resort, the scenery from the promenade
were burned to death. The charred re- which skirts the margin of the mountain
mains were interred in one common grave, being very picturesque and beautiful.
from seven to eight feet square, in St. Mi- Continuing along the main line from
chael's Church-yard. Mrs.Hemans pass- Conway to Bangor, we pass Penmaen
ed many years of her life at Abergele. Mawr, the last ofthe Caernarvonshire range
Cumcciy is about eleven miles from Ab- of mountains, whose summit is crowned by
ergele, and contains 2523 inhabitants. Ho- an extensive fortress. This mountain is
tels, Castle and Ershine Arms. Just before 1540 feet in height.
reaching the station the train passes over Bangor is entered through a tunnel 3000
the celebrated Tuhnlar Bridge, erected over in length. Hotel, Penrhjn Arms.
feet
the Conway by Stephenson in 1848. Population 6738. This is a cathedral
Though not so stupendous a structure astown, and claims to be the oldest diocese
the Britannia Bridge, yet, being the first
in Wales, its cathedral having been found-
of the kind ever built, it is more interest-
ed by St. Deiniol in 550. This building,
however, was burned by Owen Gwii'ndwr,
ing, regarded as the original invention,
which is brought to perfection in the Bri-
and the present edifice dates only from tlie
tannia Bridge, which may be considered as
fifteenth century. It contains the tombs
the triumph of engineering skill. The
of two Welsh princes. About a mile east
Conway Bridge consists of two hollow of Bangor is Penrhyn Castle, the seat of
rectangular tubes, placed side by side, for
Lord Penrhyn, owner of the famous Pen-
]
the up and down trains, each measuring rhyn Slate Quarries. The castle, open to
400 feet, and weighing 1300 tons. the public on Fridays, contains many cu-
The
tubes are formed of wrought-iron plates,
rious articles in slate, and the fence round
the park (seven miles) is entirely com-
from half an inch to an inch in thickness
(the thickest being in the centre), and are
posed of that material. The quarries are
situated five miles up the Kiver Ogwen.
sustained in their position by the strength
An inclined plane leads up to the edge of
of their materials and the manner in which
they are combined. the mountain, where over two thousand
The town of Conway was formerly sur- persons are engaged in splitting the slates,
rounded by walls strengthened by twen- which are then piled in thousands, under
ty-four circular towers, which are still in the name of duchesses, countesses, etc.,
good preservation. Conway Castle was according to the size. Seventy thousand
built by Edward I. in 1284, to check the tons are shipped yearly from Port Pen-
revolts of the Welsh, and now
the prop-
is \
rhyn, and the receipts are about 8750,000.
erty of the INIarquis of Hertford. The j
The ]Nrenai Bridge, or Telford's Suspen-
walls are of great thickness, defended by sion Bridge, is about two miles from Ban-
eight round towers. The great hall is 130 gor, and crosses the channel that separ-
feet in length ;notice also a pretty Gothic ates Anglesea from the mainland. It was
window in the King's Chaml)er, In this built between the years 1819 and 1826, to
castle in 1339 Eichard II. agreed to resign complete the coach route to Holyhead, and
his crown to the Duke of Lancaster. In is used for vehicles and foot passengers
St.Mai-y's Church is the tomb of Nicholas onlv. It is 550 feet in length from pier to
249
Holyhead. [ENGLAND.] WiGAX.
20 feet broad, and 100 feet above the The
'
in wich space the kt. fled. But neare to olic, are mostly of modern construction
Newton Parke Sir William overtooke him Preston possesses three vers'- fine parks, th
and slue him. The saide Dame Mabell approach to the largest of which is througl
was enjoyned by her confessor to doe pen- '
taining many rare works and numbering ceeded to the title. His son, Henr}' of
50,000 volumes. Among other objects of Bolingbroke, Earl of Derby and Duke of
interest in the vicinity of Wigan is '* The Hereford, after his father's death, became
Meadows^''' an ancient house dating from Duke of Lancaster, and finally king in
the reign of Elizabeth, and the Manor 1399, since which time this duchy lias been
JJouse, ^vhere Prince Charles Edward was associated with royal dignity. The town
concealed for two days in 1745. received its first charter from King John,
Pi-eston^ 25 minutes from Wigan, is most and is noted for the manner in wliich it
beautifully situated on the summit of a espoused the cause of the Royalists during
ridge running parallel with the banks of the Parliamentary W\ar also for its par- ;
the Kibble, and commands a view of a large ticipancy in the '"War of the Roses" be-
expanse of country. Its commanding sit- tween York and Lancaster. The castle
uation, as well as the important part always stands on the summit of a hill, and is now
taken by the town in the count}' annals, used as a county jail. Principal hotels are
has given it the high-sounding title of King's Arms and- Boi/al Oak. Population
" Proud Preston." Some believe this citj' 20,000. This city now gives the title of
to be the Rhigodunum of Ptolemy ;it is duke to the Prince of Wales. Passing Ox-
certainly a place of great antiquity. Un- enholme Junction (for Windermere and Eng-
der the Saxons it was called Amounder- lish Lakes, Routes 80 and 90) we reach
ness, and a Mote Hall was constructed. Lenrith, about 52 miles distant from
Preston was formerly the capital of the Lancaster. Population 7189. Hotels,
Duchy of Lancaster from the reign of Xeio Croicn and O'eorgc.
; 1
The ruins of
Henry I. to that of Charles If. it received the castle, which overlook this town, are
no less than fifteen charters it reached exceedingly romantic.
; 'Ihis was for a
its greatest glory, however, in the 18th long time the residence of Richard III. In
centur;/, when it was the great rendezvous the burying-ground of St. Andrew's Church
.
of society and fashion. After the intro- there is a curious moninnent called the Gi-
duction of spinning in 1777, by which the ant's Grave. It consists of two stone pil-
population has increased from (5000 to near- lars eleven feet high. st::nding one at each
ly 90,000, the bean monde gradually made end of a grave fifteen feet in length. Be-
way for the manufiicturing element, and tween them are four stones covered with
it is now one of the principal seats of cot- unintelligible carvings. Another stone,
ton manufacture. There are upward of 78 called the Giant's Thumb, stands close by.
mills, giving employment to nearly 20,000 Nearly two miles from Penrith are the
persons. There are 1,052,608 si)indles and ruins of Brougham Castle, supposed to
50,(;0.S looms. The Town -hall, situated have been formerly the site of a Roman
in tlie market-place, is a fine Early English station, coins and other antiquities having
building, designed by Mr. G. G. Scott. been discovered here. Brougham Hall,
The churches, four Protestant and six Cath- the seat of Lord Brougham, and a fine, pic-
251
Carlisle. [ENGLAND.] Kekdal.
turesque building, is but a short distance
from the castle. About a mile and a half ROUTE No. 89.
from Penrith is King Arthur's Eound Ta- The English Lake District.
ble, a circular area more than twenty yards Leaving Lancaster at Carnforth a branch
in diameter. line goes to Lakeside, Furness Abbey, and
"He pass'd red Penrith's Table Round, Ulverston this is the best way to enter
;
fifteen feet in circumference. The whole of great breadth, notice a helmet which be-
yards in circumference.
circle is 350 The longed to the famous Major Philipson
neighborhood of Penrith is noted for the (Robin the Devil) of Belle Isle, who rode
numerous country-seats of England's no- armed into this church during divine serv-
bility and gentry. ice to capture the person of Colonel Briggs,
For excursions from Penrith, see Route of Cromwell's army. The Philipsons
No. 89. were a family of note, who in the time of
Sixty-nine miles from Lancaster is the the Parliamentary Wars took the side of
ancient town of Carlisle, which contains the king. Major Philipson, while at his
28,000 inhabitants. The principal hotel is brother's house on Belle Isle, was besieged
the Station. It is a place of considerable there during eight months by Colonel
manufacturing importance contains an
; Briggs, but held out with great gallantry
ancient castle, partly in ruins, the erection until his brother was able to march to his
of which is attributed to AVilliam Rufus. relief and raise the siege. He then in his
This city was taken by King David, and turn made a daring attempt on the life of
was afterward besieged by Robert Bruce. Colonel Briggs, which was frustrated, how-
It nobly held out for Charles I., and suf- ever, by that officer's absence from the
fered much in consequence. The princi- church. Sir Walter Scott makes a similar
pal objects of interest are the remains of incident occur in "Rokeby."
—
the old castle, the cathedral parts of which
are —
Saxon and the court-house. Hotels, "The outmost crowd have heard a sound,
Like horse' s hoof on hardened ground
County and Royal. Nearer it came, and yet more near
From Carlisle the traveler may continue The veiy death's-men paused to hear.
on to Dumfries, fifty minutes by rail from 'Tis in the church-yard now— the tread
^.y
$ H
\ .1:
S E i
o.i^„.
Kendal.. [ENGLAND.] BOWNESS.
The second clear' d the chancel wide; ners are closets for watchmen, with oblique
The third he wa3 at Wycliflfe's side. apertures in the walls. The principal bed-
While yet the smoke the deed conceals, room in this mansion is called the Queen's
Bertram hid ready charger wheels Room, from having been occupied by Cath-
But floundered on the pavement floor arine Parr after the death of Lord Burgh,
The steed, and down the rider bore
And, bursting in the headlong sway, and before her marriage with Lord Lati-
The faithless saddle-girths gave way. mer. The room is hung with Gobelin tap-
'Twas while he toil'd him to be freed, estry, and contains a magnificent counter-
And with the rein to raise his steed.
pane and toilet -cover, the work of the
That from amazement's iron trance
All Wyclifie's soldiers waked at once." queen.
The grounds of Levens
Hall, an an-
The ruins of the castle, which consist of Howards, five miles south
cient seat of the
four dismantled towers with portions of the of Kendal, were laid out by Beaumont, the
surrounding walls, stand about one quar- same who designed the Hampton Court
ter of a mile from the town. The date gardens here are some yews two hundred
;
of the castle's construction is assigned years old. Within the house are portraits
to the 12th or 13th centuries, but little of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, while
is known of its history it is surrounded
; in the dining-room the decorations and
by a moat cut out of the limestone, on the carvings, said to have been made at a cost
northern side of Avhich are the remains of of $15,000, will well repay inspection.
an ancient outwork. Of the whole, the There are trains from Kendal to Winder-
round tower is in the best state of preser- mere eight times a day time, 20 minutes.;
of male heirs, and, after having been con- the arrival of each train. Hotels, Old Eng-
ferred by successive monarchs either on land and Crown. The church of Bowness is
their relatives or favorites, the title has an ancient building, dedicated to St. Martin,
lain dormant since the death of Madame and containing some objects of interest,
Von Schulemberg, who was created Duch- among others a stained-glass window, be-
ess of Kendal by George IL The last de- lieved to have belonged to Furness Abbey.
scendant of the Taillebois', the once proud It is divided into three compartments, two
possessors of these lands, died in 18G3, a representing the Crucifixion, and the third
pauper in the Shrewsbury workhouse. St. George and the Dragon, with the arms
The line of the fosse of a Roman station, once of France and England above. Under-
existing at Kendal, may still be traced about neath is a group of monks, whose names
a mile below the town many altars, inscrip-
; are written on scrolls.
tions,and other Roman antiquities, have From Bowness a coach runs daily from
been found near it and placed in the town Ferry Inn, on the opposite side of the lake,
museum. Opposite the castle, on the other reached by ferry-boat in one quarter of an
feide of the River Trent, is a circular emi- hour, to Coniston disfcince ten miles, whence
,
nence, believed to be a Saxon place for the the rail may be taken to visit Furness
administration of justice it is surrounded
; Abbey (see Route No. 90) ; also a coach
by a moat, and is called Castlebrow Hill. to Patterdale for UUswater, ten miles;
On the summit is an obelisk, erected in steamers every two hours to Water head
commemoration of the Revolution of 1688. for Ambleside ami to Lakeside, at the foot
In the neighborhood of Kendal is Sizergh of the lake. The lake is about ton miles
Hall, an ancient stronghold, with an old in length, and its greatest breadth two
tower sixty feet high, still entire; in the cor- miles. The scenery, though it has less
253
Windermere Lake. [ENGLAND.] Amblesidh.
wildness and grandeur than some of the the hands of farmers, and there is in con-
other lakes, is very lovely. The mari^in sequence an air of neglect about the little
is thickly -wooded; cottages and villas demesne which does not at all approach des-
peep from beneath the trees, giving an air olation, and yet gives it something of touch-
of domestic beauty to the scene. The sur- ing interest. You see every where traces
face of the lake is studded -with numerous of love and care beginning to be effaced
islands, the largest of which, Belle Isle, or rose-trees spreading iuto wildness— laurels
Curwen's Island, lies nearly opposite Bow- darkening the windows with too luxuriant
ness. It consists of about thirty acres, in branches and I can not help sajang to
;
the grounds alone are open to visitors. in its feelings and sufferings has here
This island, as already mentioned in rela- sought refuge and repose.' The ground is
tion to the church at Kendal, was a royal laid out in rather an antiquated style;
stronghold during the Parliamentary Wars, which, now that nature is beginning to re-
belonging to the Philipson family. claim it from art, I do not at all dislike.
Steamers leaving Bowness for Lakeside There is a little grassy terrace immediate-
first touch at the ferry, at a short distance ly under the window, descending to a small
from which is a summer-house, belonghig court, with a circular grass-plot, on which
to the owner of Belle Isle, called the Sta- grows one tall white-rose tree. You can
tion, the windows of which are filled Avith not imagine how much I delight in that
different colored glasses, producing a most fair, solitary, neglected -looking tree, I
curious effect. Storrs Hall, a fine mansion am writing to you from an old-fashioned
situated on a promontory to the left, is the alcove in the little garden, around which
property of the Rev. T. Stamforth. This the sweetbrier and the rose-tree have com-
building was erected by Sir John Legnrd, pletely run wild and I look down from it
:
and during the proprietorship of Mr. Bolton, upon lovely Winandermere, which seems
in 1825, was visited by Canning, Scott, at this moment even like another sky, so
Southey, AVordsworth, and Professor Wil- truly is ever}^ summer cloud and tint of
son (Christopher North). A brilliant re-
gatta then took place, over which the Pro-
fessor presided, with the title (triven by Mr. "
******
azure pictured in its transparent mirror.
Xewby Bridge, past three islands, the River its blue water, prevents the solitude from be-
Leven enters the lake. At Lakeside, a ing overshadowed by any thing like sadness."
mile further, whence by train to Furness Waterhead is the port of Ambleside, to
Abbey, is the fine Lakeside Hotel, admir- which town the distance is one mile and a
ably managed by Mr. C. Brown. quarter and omnibuses are in waiting at
;
In proceeding up the lake from Bowness the landing for Ambleside or Grasraere.
to Waterhead the tourist enjoys much
finer scenery. Calgarth, formerly the resi-
dence of Dr. Watson, author of the '• Apol-
ogy for the Bible," is passed before the
steamer stops at Loic Wood to take up pas-
sengers from the hotel at that place.
Wray Castle, built to resemble a feudal
fortress of the Middle Ages, with the ex-
ception of moat and rampart, is next pass- '
Ambleside. Queen and Saluta-
Hotels,
ed. We then see to the right Dove's Xest, tion. The mountainscenery of Am-
the residence for one summer of Mrs. bleside is very fine. Wansfell, rendered
Hemans, and of which she gives the fol- famous by Wordsworth, rises behind the
lowing description in one of her letters town, and should be ascended by those
'•
The house was originally meant for a i
desirous of gaining a fine view of this
small villa, though it has long passed into i most beautiful countrv. A
visit should
251
Rydal Mount. [ENGLAND.] The Wisiiing-Gatk.
also be made to the fine waterfall Stock Wordsworths. Easdale, one mile fronj
Ghyll i^orce, -which, from the ?pot where the Grasmere, may be visited on account of
water first commences to fall to the bottom, Easdale Force, a fine cascade which falls
measures 1(J0 feet it is broken, however, over a steep ledge of rocks above Easdale,
;
at intervals into small falls, the largest of and which is formed by a stream issuing
Avhich is about thirty feet in height. Ponies from Easdale Tarn.
or donkeys may be hired in the town for this On the old road between Ambleside and
excursion. There are numerous beautiful Grasmere the famous WisJdng-Gate, which
walks in the neighborhood of Ambleside, forms the subject of one of Wordsworth's
of which perhaps the most interesting is to lyrics, is passed. The name has been given
Kydal Mount and IJydal Hall. The latter it from the belief which has existed since
is visited on account of two fine waterfalls most ancient times that all wishes formed
situated in the grounds, to which access is here have a happy issue :
obtained by application to the gardener, " ]Iope rules a land forever green
who lives opposite the entrance to the hall. All power.-: th:it serve the biight-eyed queen
A small stream runs through a thickly Are confi'ieut and pay ;
by a gate on the left, a little above the en- How poor were human life
trance to the hall. The house is very sim- "When magic abjured its might,
lore
ple, but the view it commands over the Ye did not forfeit one dear right,
Rothay Valley and "Windermere is most One tender claim abate;
"Witness this symbol of your sway,
beautiful. In the grounds are many hollies Surviving near the public way
planted by the poet, who died here April The rustic "Wishing-Gate
23, 1850, at the advanced age of eighty.
From a summer-house in the grounds a fine '•
Smile if thou wilt, but not in scorn,
Jf some, by ceaseless pains outworn.
view may be obtained of Rydal Water, Here crave an easier lot
one of the loveliest lakes in this district, If sonic have thirsted to renew
although not more than a mile around. It A broken vow, or bind a true
is reached in a few moments from Rydal
With firmer, holier knot.
Hall, and may be passed en route for " And not when thoughts are cast
in vain,
Grasmere, a lovely spot four miles distant i
Upon the irrevocable past,
from Ambleside. The Prince of Wales Some penitent sincere
of Elterwater, the road to the right being houses, and could almost believe that you
the one to Great Langdale. Eltervvater are gazing on the primeval forests."
Lake, near which some powder-mills aflford Coniston may be reached by coach either
Si most picturesque appearance, is passed ;
from Bowness or Ambleside. Acoachleaves
and Millbeck, where a short detour ma}' be the Ferry Inn opposite Bowness daily for
made to visit Dungeon Ghyll Force. This Coniston ; distance, 10 miles. The views
is a fall formed by a stream which rushes along this route are of unsurpassed beauty,
violently through a dark mountain fissure, taking in the upper end of Windermere,
over which a curious natural bridge has and the mountain of Helvellyn and the
been made by a falling rock wedged be- Langdale Pikes.
tween the sides of the mountains, over Coniston. Hotels, IFoierAeatZ and LcUce
which none but people of strong nerves Bank. Coniston Lake is six miles in length
should attempt to pass. The gorge from and three quarters of a mile in width,
which this stream flows separates the Lang- and lies about five miles west of Winder-
dale Pikes. The higher of these, but the mere. The tour of the lake is made by a
most eas}" of ascent, is called Harrison steam-gondola two or three times a day;
Stickle, and the lower Pike o' Stickle. The an excursion to the southern end and back
views commanded from the summit of these requiring about an hour and a half. After
two mountains are most beautiful. 6 P.M. this gondola may be engaged for
Blea Tarn is reached by a steep road private excursions at a cost of fifteen shil-
from Langdale it would be as well to
; lings. The scenery along the banks is ev-
make a separate excursion here from Am- ery where beautiful, but that of the north-
bleside, as the great beauty of the place ern part is perhaps the most imposing.
is seen on the approach from that side, Coniston Old Man is well seen from the
while the finest view of the Langdale Pikes water ; this mountain rises to a height of
is also obtained in the route described 2632 feet, and derives its name from a
above. pile of stoneson the summit the word—
Troutbeck should also be visited from " man" beingthe provincial name for all
Ambleside by way of Low Wood. This is such accumulations of stones on the tops
a small and straggling village, picturesque- of hills. The ascent of the mountain
ly situated, in which some of the houses from Coniston will occupy two hours the —
are built with high-walled court-yards, nec- charge for a pony being about five shil-
essary in olden times as means of defense. lings. The vicAvs throughout the ascent
The great Roman road. High Street, which are most beautiful to the south the estu-
;
ran along the tops of the heights to the aries of the Leven, Kent, and Duddon may
right, may still be easily traced, and the be seen, and in clear weather the sea-view
ascent of the elevation should be made by embraces the Isle of Man. Snowdon is
all those interested in remains which mark also sometimes perceptible from the sum-
the site of the Roman occupation. mit. The mountain is chiefly composed
The route from Troutbeck to Low "Wood of fine roofing-slate, and there are several
is thus described by Professor Wilson :large quarries for its excavation, besides
"There is not such another splendid some valuable copper mines. The slates are
prospect in all England as the view of carried down the lake in boats, and then
Windermere from the road leading from conveyed by carts to LTlverston. There are
Troutbeck to Low Wood. The lake has three tarns upon the Old Man, viz., Levens
much the character of a river without los- Water, the largest and most beautiful in
ing its own. The islands are seen almost form and position, one mile in circumfer-
all lying together in a cluster below which ence Gates Water, passed by those mak-
; ;
all is loveliness and beauty ; above, all maj- ing the ascent from Torver this tarn pos-—
esty and grandeur. Bold or gentle prom- sesses a very wild character, being over-
ontories break all the banks into frequent hung on three sides by lofty precipices, and
bays, seldom without a cottage or cottages on the fourth with banks covered with an
embowered in trees and Avhile the whole accumulation of fallen rocks Low Water,
; ;
here and there a wreath of smoke, but no ipice overhanging its depths.
256
Thirlmere. [ENGLAND.] Derwentwater.
A coach leaves Bowness avcry morning Derwentwater is about 400 yards from
for Keswick^ roturnin_:^ the same day. passing Keswick. Here boats may be hired for
through Aml)lesi(io, Grusniere, and Thirl- excursions on the lake, which is about three
mere the drive is beautiful.
;
miles in length and one in width it is :
a short distance from a lake of the same 10 miles. There are three islands, viz.,
name, which is three miles in length, but Derwent Island, St. Herbert's Island, and
scarcely more than a quarter of a mile in Lord's Island. The first is the nearest to
width at its widest point. The beauties Keswick, and is about six acres in extent
of this piece of water are better seen from it was formerly a dependency of Fountains
the opposite side to that taken by the high- Abbey, but now belongs to H. Marshall,
road. Esq., who allows the grounds to be visited
Kesnick is situated at the bottom of in the absence of the family. St. Herbert's
Derwentvvater Lake, almost directh' under Island is believed to have been the resi-
Skiddaw. Hotels, Keswick and Royal Oak. dence of St. Herbert, the remains of whose
This town is chiefly noted for its manufact- hermitage, consisting of an oratory and a
ure of lead-pencils, the number produced are still to be seen.
cell, According to
weekly being about 250,000, or 13,000,000 Bede, the hermit left this cell but once a
a year. Keswick was for man}^ years the year to visit St. Cuthbert, until his death,
residence of Robert Southey, LL.D., Poet A.D. 687. Pilgrimages were made and relig-
Laureate. Greta Hall, beautifully situ- ious services were celebrated on the island
ated on the Greta River, about half a mile until the end of the 14th centur}"^. Lord's
from the town, was the poet's place of abode, Island derives its name from having been
where he remained until his death in 1842, the former residence of the Earls of Der-
and where Coleridge resided with him for wentwater it is believed to have first been
;
nearly four years. Southey is buried in a peninsula, which, after the erection of
the parish church-yard oiCrostkwaife; with- the earl's mansion, w^is separated from the
in the church is a recumbent figure of the mainland l)y a deep fosse, which was span-
poet by Lough, said to be a ver}'- good like- ned by a drawbriclgc. The island is now
ness. The following epitaph was composed completely deserted.
by Wordsworth : In driving around the lake, Barrow House,
" Ye vales and liills, whose boauty hither drew in the grounds of which is the Barrow Fall,
The poet's steps, and fixed him here, on you is first passed. This is a fine cascade 120
His eyes have closed And ye, loved books, no feet in height. The fall is reached through
!
wcnt River, sometimes called Borrowdaie bly have been designed for exhibitions of
Beck, takes its course, is one of the most the holmegang^ or duel of the girdle, in which
l;eautiful valleys in the Lake district. the combatants were fastened together by
Grange^ situated in the valley, is so named a girdle around the waist, and then allowed
from having been the spot where the monks to give their knives full play. Mayhorougk
of Furness stored their corn. Castle Crag lies near the Round Table, but on the op-
rises in the centre of the gorge, and is be- positfi side of the road. It consists of a
lieved to have been the site of a fortress circular inelosure, formed by a wall of
built by the Eomans to command the Bor- rounded stones, 16 feet in height the in- ;
rowdaie Pass. Although this stronghold closed space is about 100 yards in diameter,
is said to have been garrisoned by the in the centre of which stands a large stone,
monks of Furness as late as the 16th cent- and the whole is now encircled by trees.
ury, no traces of it now remain, but the This is believed to have served either as
ascent of the eminence may be made for a Druidical temple or as a court of justice.
the fine view it commands of the valle}'. Echn Hall, four miles from Penrith, is a
The Boulder or Bowder Stone lies nearly fine mansion, built in 1824, and containing
opposite the crag it was transported here
;
some good pictures. Here is an old enam-
in an early geological period by a glacier, eled drinking-glass, preserved with great
and measures 62 feet in length by 36 in care, which, according to tradition, was
height; the weight is about two thousand seized the butler one day at St. Cuth-
by
tons. bert's A\'ell in the park, where he surprised
Bassentlucaite Lake, four miles in length, a party of dancing fairies. He easily ob-
and in its widest parts one in breadth, lies tained possession of the glass, which lay
about three miles northeast of Keswick. Its on the brink of the well and after a vain
;
banks are richly wooded, and although per- effort to recover it, the fairies flew. away
haps not possessing the variety of scenery singing—
to be seen at Derwentwater, its beauties " If that glass either break or fill,
Farewell tlie Luck of Eden Hall."
will well repay a visit.
In leaving Keswick the tourist may go The glass is a beautiful specimen of Ori-
by rail either to Cockermouth or Penrith, ental workmanship, and is kept in a case
for which places trains leave five times dating from the time of Henr}' Y. Long-
daily to; Cockermouth 13 miles, to Penrith fellow's translation of a German ballad,
18 miles. Coaches also run three times a called •' The Luck of Eden Hall," will be
day to Windermere Station through Am- remembered by most of our readers. With-
bleside and Grasmere.
'
l)e made from Penrith (see Route No. 88), ing monuments in the chancel of all the
or the rail may be taken from Keswick to Musgrave baronets, beginning with the sec-
Troutbeck Station, and thence by rail to ond baronet, Sir Philip. From Eden Hall
Patterdale. If going by the former route, the road to Kirkoswald passes through Long
take the coach Avhich leaves Penrith Sta- Meg and her Daughters (Route No. 88). The
tion every morning at 9 A.M.. arriving at castle of Kirkoswald, the ancient residence
Pooley Bridge Landing in one hour. Here of the Lords of Melton, from whom it de-
you eml)ark on a small steam-yacht, which scended to the Dacres and the Earl of Es-
makes the tour of the lake in two hours, sex, is now a crumbling ruin, with little re-
2o8
the: engiish lakes
LowTHEB Castle. [ENGLAND.] Ulverston.
maining but the square Norman tower. It isdivided by mountains into three separate
was once an extensive fortress, protected parts or reaches, the scenery toward Pat-
on three sides by a moat, whose borders are terdale being the finest. .V road runs
still well defined. Sir Hugh de Morville, along the western shore from Pooley Bridge
one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket, to Patterdale distance ten miles.
; After
resided here, and the sword with which passing through several small villages, we
he stabbed the bishop was preserved for reach on this road Halsteads, the seat of
many years in the castle. W, Marshall, Esq. one mile farther Gow-
;
Two miles from Kirkoswald is the Nun- barrow Park (belonging to H. Howard, Esq.,
nery founded by William Rufus for Bene- of Greystoke Castle, to whom it descended
dictine nuns little now remains of the
;
after the deatli of his uncle, the 11th Duke
ancient edifice. of Norfolk) is entered. This park contains
Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl of over a thousand acres of ground on a ;
Lonsdale, is a magnificent building, five slight eminence within its limits is a hunt-
miles from Penrith, which is open to the pub- ing-box call Lyuljjirs Tower, which com-
lic every day but Sunday. It is approached mands a splendid view of the lake. The
from the north by an arched gateway, and I
road next crosses a small stream, which
is 420 feet in length on the northern front about a mile above the bridge forms a fine
the building is constructed of a rose-tinted '
cascade called Airey Force. The water
freestone in the modern Gothic style, and here falls perpendicularly through a chasm
has no less than fort}"- turrets. From the from a height of eight}' feet it is divided
;
terrace walk. 400 feet in length and 90 in at the top into two streams, which unite
breadth, the views over the Lowther, on before they reach the bottom of the fall.
the right bank of which the castle is situ- Patterdale. Hotels, Ullswater and Pat-
ated, are unsurpassed. In addition to the terdale. Here the tourist fond of climbing
beauties of nature, the art collection is very may pass a day in order to make the ascent
fine, there being i)aintings by Van Dyck, Fai- of Helvellyn, for which ponies and guides
bens, Teniers, AVouverman, Gerhard Dow, may be obtained at either of the hotels. The
Salvator Rosa, Poussin, Guido Reni, Cuyp, time occupied in the ascent and descent be-
Titian, Murillo, Rembrandt, Leonardo da ing about three hours. The height of
Vinci, and Paul Veronese. the mountain is about 3118 feet. Patter-
Hawesicater, the least visited of all the dale Hall is the principal seat in the neigh-
lakes, is the propert}' of the Earl of Lons- borhood. From Patterdale the traveler
dale, and lies two miles from Lowther and may return to Pooley Bridge by steamer,
nine from Penrith. Aboat is kept for those or may take a coach which runs daily to
desirous of making an excursion on the lake, Bowness and Windermere Station.
for the use of which application should be
made to the steward at Lowther Castle. The
lake is 2|- miles long and half a mile wide.
Pooley Biidge is a small village on the
Ullswater, about one mile from the place
of embarkation for the steamer, to which
a coach takes all passengers. Boats
may also be obtained here for short ex-
cursions on the lake. Hotels, Sun and
Crown. The Eamont enters the lake near
Pooley, and is crossed by a fine stone ROUTE No. 90.
bridge. Enscmere, a villa which was for Lancaster to Carlule (by the western
some time the residence of the late William coast), rza Ulverston, Whitehaven,and Mary-
Wilberforce, lies about half a mile distant, port, by rail.Time, 5 hours.
on the eastern shore of the lake. Ulverston, situated about a mile from the
Ullswater is perhaps the gi-andcst of the ;
estuary of the Leven, contains G630 inhab-
English lakes, and is by many regarded as itants. It is a market-town and port, and
a miniature Lucerne it is nine miles in
; ship-building is carried on to some extent.
length, witii a varying breadth, and a great- Hotels, Sun and BraddyU's Arms. The
er average depth than the other lakes. It I
distance from Lancaster to Ulverston is
259
FuRNESS Abbey [ENGLAND.] Egremoxt.
twenty-two miles in addition to the rail,
; ing from the centre of the transept, are still
this distance may be performed b}' cross- entire. The high-altar stood below the east
ing the sands of Morecambe Bay, which are window, the glass of which may now be
twice a day left perfectly dry by the ebb- seen at the church of Bowness; the sedilia,
ing of the tide, and may be crossed in safe- formerh- richl}' gilt, still remain. Within
t}', though never without a guide. Com- the choir are numerous interesting monu-
stread Prior}' is two miles distant from Ul- mental ornaments and South of the
slabs.
verston, near the sea-shore. It is called, chancel is the chapter-house, with side chap-
from the beauty of its situation, the "Para- els, and a vestry between the two. In this
dise of Furness." Six miles and a half originally most beautiful building a pil-
southwest of Ulverston are the ruins of lar has been reconstructed out of frag-
Furness Abbey, belonging to the Duke of ments, and placed in its former upright po-
Devonshire. It was founded in 1127' by sition, to give some idea of what the beaut}'
monks of the Cistercian order, who were of its style and architecture must have been.
invited to settle here by Stephen, Earl of The present hotel was former!}- the abbot's
Boulogne and Morton, afterward King of house; here some fine bas-reliefs, which
England. King Stephen endowed the con- formerly ornamented the abbey, may be
vent not only with lands contiguous to it, seen. The abbots of this convent succeed-
but with e?tates in all parts of England ed each other during a period of -100 years,
and Ireland he also granted extraordinary
; and held unlimited sv/ay over the neigh-
privileges, which, together with the grants boring population, Avho lived always in a
of land, were ratified by twelve successive state of vassalage. The last of these ab-
kings. Nine other abbeys were under its bots,Eoger Pylc, made a formal surrender
jurisdiction and the societj' had the right
;
of the abbey to Henry VIII.
not only to appoint all its civil officers, and A few miles from Furness Abbey is situ-
to levy fines according to its discretion, but ated the rising town and port of Barrov:.
it also possessed a criminal jurisdiction in- Hotel Royal. At the early part of the pres-
dependent of the king. Fifty years after ent century Barrow contained only two or
the introduction of the Cistercian order three fishing-huts ; now it has a population
—
into England Furness claiming to be the of 20,000, mainly owing to the energy and
parent abbey —
there were no less than capital of the railway company. It is now
eighty-five monasteries of that order exist- the port of shipment of the Furness iron-
ing. The strict rules were soon relaxed, mines. Avisit should be made to the im-»
not only at Furness, but elsewhere, and the mense iron-works of Messrs. Schneider &
abbey Ijecame notorious for its luxury and Co., one mile from the town. The exten-
want of discipline. A
large and independ- sive floating-docks should also be visited.
ent trade was carried on Avith foreign coun- Thirt}- miles from Ulverston -vve reach
tries —the iron mines of Furness furnishing Ef/remont, a small market town of about
a valuable article of exchange to the monks, 2500 inhabitants. To the west of the town
who possessed their own ships of burden. stand the ruins of Egremont Castle. This
They could also command among their ten- was built by William de Meschines soon
antry a military force of 1200 men, of whom after the Conquest. General AVyndhani
400 were horsemen. At the time of the dis- is the present owner of the castle. Iron
solution. the boundary-wall inclosed an area ore abounds in the neighborhood of Egre-
of sixty-five acres, within Avhich were gar- mont, and is carried unsmelted to White-
dens. fish-ponds, breweries, bakeries, grana- haven, where it is shipped. This town con-
ries, malt-kilns. etc. There were then but tains about 18,812 inhabitants, and is a sea-
thirty-three monks, and 100 other inmates, port of some importance. Hotels, Globe
many of whom were servants. The abbey, and Bl tch Lion. The coal mines of "White-
with its dependencies, is built of soft red haven are its great source of wealth. They
sand-stone, which does not admit of great lie underneath the town, and extend more
ornamentation. The church is 287 feet than two miles beneath the bed of the sea;
long, and the walls, in many places five feet the sea, indeed, frequently bursts into the
thick, are very well preserved. Three of mines, causing fearful destruction of life
the pillars, and the most eastern of the four and property. Large quantities of coal
arches which supported the great tower ris- are shipped daily, sometimes amounting to
260
COCKERMODTH. [ENGLAND.] Hexham.
1500 tons. Steam-boats run from White-
haven to Belfast, .Dublin, Liverpool, and ROUTE No. 91.
the Isle of Man. Travelers wishing to Carlisle to Neivcastle, via Halta-histle and
take the shortest and cheapest route to the Hexham, by rail. Time, 3 hours fare, 11^.
;
Lake district may take a steamer from Liv- Carlisle, see Koute No. 88.
erpool to Whitehaven, and thence proceed Leaving Carlisle by a branch of the
to the lakes by way of Workington and Northeastern Railway, the first place of im-
Cockermouth. portance reached is Brampton, formerly a
Cochermouth is about fourteen miles from Roman station. It is a pretty town, situ-
Whitehaven. Population, 7057. Hotels, ated in a narrow valley, and containing
Globe and Sun. This town is the birth- 2300 inhabitants. The Mute is the name
place of Wordsworth —
born in April, 1770. given to a hill near the town, 360 feet high,
The ruins of the castle, which stand on the which is surrounded by a fosse, and is be-
east bank of the Cocker, are very interest- lieved to have been either a Saxon court
ing. This building was erected by the of justice or a Danish fort. Two miles
Lord of AUerdale soon after the Norman from Brampton is a cliff called Hilbeck,
Conquest. Marj' Queen of Scots was con- bearing an inscription cut by the Second
fined here in 1568. St. Marj-'s Church Roman Legion (Augusta), which was sta-
contains a memorial window to "NVords- tioned here under the command of the Pro-
worth. praetor Agricola. The base of the rock is
Workington is on the line of the Coast washed by the river Gelt, and the inscrip-
Railway, three miles from "Whitehaven. tion is placed about five feet above the wa-
Here jiary Queen of Scots landed after the ter, according to which "the vexillarii of
defeat of her army at Langside, having the Second Legion were, in the consulship
crossed Solway Firth in a fishing-boat. She of Flavins Asper and Albinus Romanus
was received at Workington Hall, the seat (A.D. 270), employed to hew stone here for
of the Curwens, with the greatest hospital- the Romans."
ity. Maruport^ seven miles from White- Haltwhistle is a small market-town of
haven, contains 6037 inhabitants. Coal is 1750 inhabitants, whose houses still bear
j
the chief article of export, which is shipped traces of battlements and other fortifica-
I
the Koman station Virosidum arc to be seen depredations of the border wars. The prin-
on a cliff to the north of the town. This cipal building is the Church of the Holy
:
was a very large camp, the ramparts of Cross, in the Early English style, restored
1
marks of the houses having been more than Hexham, once a place of great importance
once burned to the ground and rebuilt. as the capital of Hexhamshire, is now a
The streets had been paved with broad flag- large market-town of 9605 inhal)itants, con-
stones, much worn by use, particularly the sisting of one long main street, from, which
steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have two narrow streets lead to the market-place.
been a temple. The houses had been roofed This was formerly interesting from its an-
with Scotch slates, which, with the pegs that tique appearance, which is unfortunately
fastened them, lay confusedly in the street. fast disappearing day by day. On the
Glass vessels, and even mirrors, were found south, near the covered market, is a fount-
and coals had evidently been used in the [
ain called the '*
Pant,*' bearing the inscrip-
fireplaces. Foundations of buildings were j
tion "Ex domo Roberti AUgood armigeri,
around the fort on all sides." Lysons. 1 Anno D.M. 1703."' On the western side
There was also a well within the station. I
stands the church, and on th oa.<;t is au
^
261
Hexham. [ENGLAND.] Clapham.
old gray tower dating whose burial-ground a Roman votive altar
from the time of
Edward III. Another much lary:er tower, was discovered a chased silver cup was ;
called 3Ioot Hall, may be reached by pass- also found on Halton Moor. AVithin the
ing through a Gothic arch into Hallsgarth church is a monument bearing the follow-
Street the date of this is unknown. The
; ing curious epitaph
Abbey or Cathedral Church of St. Andrew ''He was — but words are wanting to say what.
is a magnificent building in the Early En- Think what a man should be ; though an
attorney, he was that."
glish style, with a tower 100 feet high, sur-
rounded by an arcade of five lancets. The Leaving Halton, the line after crossing
church was formerly cruciform, but the nave and recrossing the Lune reaches Caton Sta-
having been destroyed b}' the Scots in the tion, where Roman antiquities have also
time of Edward I., has never been rebuilt. been discovered. In 1803 a milliarium
The transept is 158 feet in length the arch-
; was found, also a pillar bearing
an inscrip-
es and pillars in the centre, supporting the tion to the Emperor Adrian. Hornby is a
tower, are most magnificent, and ornament- picturesquely situated village, with a cas-
ed with rich carvings, which have been un- tle believed to occupy the site of a Roman
fortunateh' greatly obscured by whitewash. villa,owing to the quantities of coins and
The monuments, some of which are very ornaments Avhich have been discovered in
fine, have been nearly all removed to the excavating here. A fortress was first
transept. "Prior Richard's Shrine," of erected here by Nicholas Montbeggon, and
carved oak, in the southern transept, is after passing through various hands be-
particularly worthy of notice. A
came the property of Sir Edward Stanley,
richh'
carved rood-screen separates the choir from who was created Baron Monteagle by
the transept on the inside is the figure of Henry VIII.
; The present building was
the Virgin surrounded by those of seven erected by him, although it has undergone
early bishops of Hexham, while on the out- some alteration from the hands of other
side are paintings from the Dance of Death. owners. The keep, with the motto of Lord
In ancient tunes it was the custom to hung Monteagle on the northern side, " Glav et
a glove in the church of Hexham as chal- Gant," or sword and glove, is the oldest
lenge to an adversary. This custom is al- portion of the castle.
luded to by Scott in " Rokeby :" Passing through Wennington Junction
" Edmund, thy years were scarcely mine, (whence a branch line runs to Carnforth)
When challenging the chins of Tyne, and Bentham,we reach Clapham, famous for
To bring their best my brand to prove. its cave and lovely scenery. The village
O'er Hexham's altar hung ray glove is one mile from the station at the New ;
the new cave, however, the stalagmites are tle, is only mteresting as being the burial-
of a glittering whiteness ;a long passage place of the Earls of Cumberland and their
lined with these leads to the Pillar Hall, countesses, whose tombs are marked by
•where stalactites and stalagmites have some fine monuments.
united to form transparent pillars, and pro- Skipton was the birthplace of Lord St.
ducing a most beautiful effect. A narrow Leonards and of the antiquary Holmes.
passage bej^ond this hall, through which About one hour from Skipton Kirkstall,
you have to creep, leads to the Giant's site of the ruins of the beautiful Kirkstall
Hall, another magnificent room, from the Abbey, is passed. This abbey was foun<led
side of which two small holes lead to a by Henry de Lacy in the first half of tlie
lower level, where is situated the pool al- 12th century, who during a dangerous ill-
ready mentioned. White rats inhabit this ness made a vow that in case of recovery
cave, which is of easy access and mav be he would erect a Cistercian convent. The
explored by ladies, with proper attention abbey was first established at Barnolds-
to dress. The ascent of Ingleborough may wick in Craven, but the monks having en-
be made from Clapham, the distance be- countered many difficulties there, the site
ing about four miles. On the summit of was changed to Kirkstall, and Henry de
this mountain, 2361 feet above the level of Lacy laid the foundation of the church
the sea, is a walled hill fort inclosing about with his own hands, and the whole was
lifteen acres, containing some foundations completed at his expense. The ruins are
of huts, and resembling many found in now the property of the Earl of Cardigan,
Ireland and North Wales. The view from and may be visited on payment of a small
here embraces all the neighboring mount- sum at the entrance. Their proximity to
ain groups, but the summit is rarely free Leeds has tended to decrease their beauty,
enough from clouds to allow its full beau- many parts being blackened by the smoke
ties to be enjoyed. of that manufacturing city, which has also
Skipton, a town containing 6078 inhabit- completely discolored th: waters of the
ants, consists of one long main street, at Aire that flow past the ruins. In 1856
the head of which stand the church and some excavations were undertaken by a
castle. This is the capital of Craven, committee from Leeds, who leased the ruins
which belonged between the 12th and for that purpose wiien glass and pottery, or-
;
15th centuries to the houses of Percy and namented keys, encaustic paving tiles, etc.,
Clifford, Skipton being the head of the were discovered in large quantities, as well
latter barony. It is mentioned in Domes- as a mould of Caen stone for casting metal
day as Scepsione, from Seep, a sheep, a escalop shells, and a chess - piece of the
name which was probably derived from 12th century carved from the tusk of a
the sheep-walks which cover the neigh- walrus.
boring hills. The town is now famous for I
Leeds, see Koute No. 83.
its cattle markets, which are held ever}'
'
two weeks.
The castle is divided into two periods
the towers dating from the reign of Ed-
ward II., and the eastern or inhabited por-
tion from that of Henry YIII. The en-
trance is beneath a square tower, which
bears the Clifford motto, " Desormais," in
open letters. The more modern portion of
the castle consisted formerly of a long gal-
lery, which was divided into smaller rooms
during the last century. There is some ROUTE
No. 93.
tapestry of the time of Henry IV. well Sheffield to Lancaster, via Penistone, Hud'
deserving of notice, as well as two por- dersjield, Halifax, and Bradford, by rail.
traits of the famous Lady Anne Clifford, Time, 3 hours.
who regained and restored the castle after Shpjfleld, see Route No. 80.
its partial demolition in the Parliamentary Penistone is a large village chiefly noted
Wars. Skipton Church, adjoining the cas- for its cattle market, containing a fine
2G3
HUDDERSFIELD. [ENGLAND.] Bradford.
church, restored in 1863. The ancestors and tried, if found guilty, was beheaded
'
of William "Wordsworth resided in the par- here. Such an execution could only take
I
ish of Penistone until the last centiny, place en the principal market-day
1
; and if
when the poet's grandfather removed to the offender had been tried and condemn-
I
Westmoreland. In the neighboring hills ed before that time, he was placed in the
I
are two remarkable intrenchments of cir- stocks, and exhibited on ordinary market-
j
cular form, about 900 feet in circumference, days with the stolen goods either on his
with an external ditch, and with entrances back or before him. From 1541, when this
facing each other north and south. gibbet was erected, to 1650, when this mode
!
the Colne, just below the junction of that platform is now grass-grown, and the walls
river with the Holme. Cloth-weaving is of the court are covered with ivy. The
here carried on to a great extent, and the gibbet itself was a rude instrument, with
abundance of water-power, as well as the an axe about eight pounds in weight fixed
coal which is found here in plenty, greatly in a block of wood hanging from a frame-
increases the facility of manufacture, and Mork about fifteen feet high. The axe was
consequently the prosperity of the place. grooved so that it might descend rapidly,
Beyond the mills and factories the town and death was instantaneous.
contains little of interest, the churches be- On the route from here to Bradford the
ing all modern. There is a Mechanics' In- country abounds in mills, factories, and
stitution, a Literary and Scientific Society, collieries four tunnels and several unim-
;
and a Cloth Hall, built in 1708, which would portant stations are passed before reaching
repay a visit on market-days. the latter place.
I
Halifax, situated on the Hebble, ranks Bradford, the great seat of the worsted
third in importance as a cloth manufactur- trade, is situated at the union of three ex-
ing town, being exceeded in the quantity tensive valleys, where three railroads meet.
produced I)y Leeds and Bradford, Popu- It contains a population of 106,218. Coal
I
lation 37,208. Hotels, White Swan and and iron abound in the vicinity, but spin-
j
Railway. In 1443 there were not more ning and weaving worsted and woolen
than forty houses at Halifax, until in the cloths is the chief employment of the in-
I
reign of Henr}' YII. cloth-making was in- habitants. There are altogether about 180
troduced by Flemish workmen. Since then mills, employing 12,000- hands. The prin-
the town has gone on rapidly increasing, cipal buildings are St. George's Music Hall,
'
and the manufacture of worsted stuffs be- opened in 1853, the Town -hall. Court-house,
gun in the last centur\' has nearly doubled and Exchange. Peel Park, containing 64
its trade. Over 17,000 hands are employed acres, is about a mile from the town.
in that manufacture alone. The principal Leeds, see Route No. 83.
buildings of Halifax are the Parish Church
of St. John, the Church of All Souls, the
Town-hall, the Cloth or Piece Hall, and the
Manor Court-house. The parish church
dates mostly from 1447, but retains por-
tions of two earlier churches — one Saxon,
and the other of the 13th century. The
modern Church of All Souls is a beauti-
ful building, erected and endowed by E.
Akroyd, Esq. The foundation-stone was
laid in 1856, and the whole was completed ROUTE
No. 94.
in 1859, at a cost of $350,000. London to Great Malvern, via Oxford and
In the western part of the town, in a Worcester, hy rail^ 128f miles. Time, 3 hrt>.
court opening from Gibbet Lane, is a plat- 25min. fare, £1 3s.
;
form of stones about eight feet in height, From Paddington to Oxford, see Route
where the once famous Halifi\x gibbet No. 85 distance, 63|- miles. Hotel, Clar-
;
rjiite toWorcester, a branch line leads off Greenhill, an eminence situated a little
to Stow -on -the -Wold, an ancient murliet- to the north of the town,was the site of
town, first built in a wood, from which cir- the battle of Evesham, fought between
cumstance it derives its name as well as Simon de Montfort, who held Henry III.
the following traditional verse and Prince Edward, afterward
prisoner,
''A squirrel can hop from Swell to Stowe, Edward I. A spring, called Battle Well,
Witliiut resting his foot or wetting his toe." marks the spot of Simon's death, by which
The church, containing specimens of every event the royal authority was fully re-es-
style of architecture, was built by the tablished. Passing Fladbury Station, an
monks of Evesham it is surmounted by
;
'
the Avon, contains 4890 inhabitants. The Early English style, with the exception of
town owes its existence to a monastic in- the crypt, which is Norman. It is in the
stitution founded here by St. Egwin in the form of a double cross, 38-i feet long, with
8th century, who, having been sent in fet- a tower rising 170 feet. The oldest part
ters to Rome on a false accusation, was now standing dates from 1218, when it was
happily delivered through the instrumen- restored after a fire it was formerly the
;
tality of a fish caught in the Tiber, in whose church of an abbey founded bj' the Saxon
stomach the key of the fetters, throvrn by kings. Among the tombs are those of
the saint into the Avon before setting out, King John, the most ancient roj'al monu-
was found. The Pope considered this mir- ment England, whose body was shown
in
acle a refutation of all accusations, and St. to the people in 1797, and then replaced
Egwin was allowed to depart in peace. of Arthur, son of Henry YII. and of ;
The abbey was at one time one of the Bishop Hough, the bas-reliefs of which are
largest and most prosperous in the king- some of the best works of Koul)iliac. The
dom, but at the Dissolution it was almost old cloisters are now occupied by the ca-
entirely destroyed, the only portion which thedral dignitaries, and contain some of
escaped being the bell-tower added to the the best stained windows in England.
abbey by Abbot Lichfield in 1533. Simon Among the other buildings may be men-
de jMontfort's mutilated trunk was buried tioned the Episcopal Palace, the Guildhall,
before the high altar of the abbey church, the Town-hall, Edgar's Tower, a curious
which is now completely destroyed. With- piece of antiquity ; the County Jail, which
in the church-yard are two churches, St. occupies the site of the ancient castle ; and
Lawrence's, of the 16th century, which has the Theatre, built in 1870.
been restored, and All Saints, which con- Leaving Worcester either by the Shrub
tains the highly decorated mortuary chapel Hill Station or Foregate Street Stiition, in
of Abbot Lichfield. twenty minutes we reach
Vol. I.— 2 M 205
Malverk. [ENGLAND.] Malvern* Wells.
Malvern, a place of considerable antiq- Mary," "The Last Supper," and "The
uity, situated on the slope of the Mal- Blind restored to Sight." The tesselated
vern Hills, about 29 miles from Glouces- pavement of this church was once remark-
ter and 8 from Worcester. It is divided able for its beauty and richness of design
into two parts, Great and Little Malvern, many of the tiles remain, each Avith a
still
^vhich are about 3^ miles distant from each different design, many having
the armorial
other. The mineral springs for which ,
bearings of different families in the neigh-
Malvern is celebrated lie between the two. I
borhood of Malvern the kiln at which
;
These springs are called St, Anne's and these encaustic tiles were made by the
Holywell; the water is slightly tepid and monks has been discovered about 200 yards
sulphureted, and is chiefly useful for skin from the church and abbey gateway
diseases. Besides its mineral springs, Mal- many pieces were found here correspond-
vern is also celebrated for the extent to ing in pattern with those in the Malvern
which the hydropathic system, or water- churches. In addition to the parish church,
cure, is carried on, it lieing the recognized there are ten others in Malvern or its vi-
bead-quarters of hvdropathy. cinity.
Malvern College, founded in 1863 by the
Bishop of Worcester, is a fine building sit-
uated on the slope of North Hill, where
about 600 boys are prepared for the uni-
versities. The Worcestershire Beacon is
one of a range of hills forming part of the
boundary-line between Worcestershire and
Herefordshire it ris3S 1300 feet above
:
from the British Moel and Vern, signifying tenham (22), Tewkesbury (16), and Eves-
the mountain on the plain. The beautj' of ham (21). St. Anne's Well may be visited
I
the purity and salubrity of its climate, leads to the Sugar Loaf, a hill which forme
added to its medicinal springs, render it a the connecting link between the Beacon
I
favorite place of resort during the summer and North Hill. '
Its summit commands
season. The population in 1871 amounted a view of the villages of Mathon, Colwall,
to 7606, which is of course greatly increased Cradley, and West Malvern.
j
This last
during the summer months. consists principally of detached villas be-
I
Malvern Priory, endowed by Edward the longing to private families, and standing
Confessor, was one of the most flourishing in their own grounds. The drive from
of the monastic establishments existing Malvern here, returning by the Wytche
during the Middle Ages the Refectory road, should not be omitted (6 miles).
; I
and gateway now alone remain, the latter The ascent of the North Hill may be made
j
being a beautiful specimen of the later En- past the Ivy Scar Pock, an eminence cov-
glish style. ]Malvern Church originally ered with ivy, strongly resembling the
formed a part of the Priory, but at the dis- ruins of an ancient castle.
solution of monasteries it was bought by At Malvern Wells, two miles from Mal-
S
the inhabitants for a parish church. It is vern, is situated the hydropathic establish-
'
a fine Gothic structure, 173 feet in length ment, adjoinin.2; the Holy Well alread}' men-
and 63 in breadth, with a tower 124 feet tioned. A drive should be taken to Little
high ;it was reconstructed in the 15th ]Malvern to visit the old Norman church,
century, and greatly beautified by Henrj* an interesting ruin, of which the tower and
VII. and his queen, who after their visit choir alone remain. Some three miles from
to Malvern filled the windows with stained Little Malvern stands Eastnor Castle, open
glass one of these, the western, still re- to visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays. Near
;
mains, and represents " The Presentation the building is an obelisk, 90 feet in height,
in the Temple," " The Salutation of Eliz- erected in 1812 to the memory of Lord Chan-
abeth to ]\Iary," "The Angel appearing to cellor Somers, James Cnx, who fell in bat^
266
HCNGERFORD StATIOK. [ENGLAND.] Marlborough.
Malvern 120 miles distant from Lon- to the Hall during the absence of the
'
is
of Elizabeth to Judge Popham. By many through the forest of some five or six miles.
it is believed, however, to have been of- The castle, built in the reign of Henry I.
fered as a bribe to that officer by William by Bishop Roger of Salisbury, has been in-
'
escorted from Berkshire, in the dead of was by them let on lease to Mr. Cotterell,
i
masked lady. Immediately after the for about three weeks, having been at-
child's birth, a villainous-looking man en- tacked by gout on his way to London.
|
In
tared and threw the babe on the fire blaz- 1779, the house was purchased by the Mar-
:
ing on the hearth, by which it was com- quis of Ailesbur}', in whose family it still
pletely consumed. The horror of this remains. \
The great hall of the house is hung with ploved being about three hours.
267
AVEBURY. [ENGLAND.] Bkistou
Tiie DeviVs Den, soon reached, is a crom- now visible. The object of this enormous
lech about ten feet high, consisting of a hill, as well as the time of its construction
slab twelve or fifteen feet in length, origi- |
or the people by whom it was erected, is
nally supported by four blocks, of which completely shrouded in mystery.
two only now remain in an upright posi- Passing through Devizes, containing the
tion, the village of Avehury is almost ruins of an ancient castle, we soon reach
entirely built of fragments from the huge Bath, 107 miles from London, a beauti-
stone circles existing here for centuries, ful and very ancient town, which has from
more than 650 stones having been destroy- the earliest times attracted attention by
ed for building purposes. These circles its medicinal springs it is greatly resort-
;
ence of 4442 feet, Within this was a deep ered about a century ago, near the Abbey.
fosse, along the inner margin of which They lie about twenty feet below the
|
huge unhewn stones, about 100 in number, present soil, and measure 240 feet by 120
j
in this circle were two smaller ones, con- springs in Bath the Hot Bath, the King's,
!
:
sisting originally of thirty stones each of the Queen's, and the Cross Bath the first
; :
the most northern 4 alone remain, 3 being is the highest in temperature, 117° of
erect, and of the southern 5 remain, 3 of Fahrenheit, and yields 128 gallons a min-
which are prostrate. Each of these sec- ute. The King's Bath is situated in a fine
!
ondary circles had inner circles of twelve Grecian building open to the sk}-, with a
stones, of which the traces still exist. In colonnade extending from one side. The
\
the centre of the northern circle stood three principal buildings in Bath are the Pump-
large stones forming an adytum two of room, Assembly Buildings, and the Abbey
:
these are still in existence, the taller being Church. The last contains numerous
17 feet in height, 7 feet 7 inches in width, monuments, among them that of Beau
and 2 feet 4 inches in thickness. The cir- Nash, formerly styled King of Bath Sir ;
cular earthwork was approached on the Walter Waller and Quin, the actor.
i On ;
S.W. and S.E. by double avenues of up- Lansdowne Hill stands a very lofty tower,
j
right blocks, 72 feet in width, each consist- erected by William Beckford, author of
:
ing of about 200 stones placed in pairs," 48 " Yathek." He died at Bath in 1844, and
feet apart. Avebury dates from a period is buried in a cemetery formed from his own
previous to the conquest of Britain by the grounds. The population of Bath is 52,533.
Romans, and is believed by most antiqua- Hotels, York House and Grand Pump
•
ries to be older than Stonehenge. Many Room. The town is situated on both sides
theories exist in relation to its use, but only of the Avon, ten miles above Bristol. In
one fact is undeniable— that it was never the vicinity are situated the ruins of Far-
intended for a military work, as is proved leigh Castle and of Hinton Priory, both
|
I
is that of a truncated cone, 1657 feet in cir- of England, ofi"ering every comfort to
cumference at the base, with sides sloping I
the traveler. Bristol is a large com-
upward at an angle of 80° it is 125 feet
;
mercial city, lying chiefly on the north
in height, with a circular area on the sum- bank of the lower Avon, possessing mag-
mit 104 feet in diameter. The base was nificent docks. In consequence of the
formerly surrounded by a circle of stones, great rise of tides in the British Channel
placed 18 feet apart, but few of these are and in the river, the largest ships are en-
BRISTO L
Bristol. [ENGLAND.] Tauntox.
ings are rather peculiar, being built with bles one to be found in the monastery of
gardens and terraces one above the other, Batalha, Portugal. Bristol possessed before
resembling an amphitheatre. Education- the Reformation no less than 19 churches,
al institutions are numerous and highly of which 15 still exist. The other princi-
appreciated. The city of Bristol is large, pal public buildings are the Commercial
and rich in varieties of literature. Contri- Rooms, Library, Victoria Rooms, Fine Arts
butions to charitable institutions are very j
Academy, Exchange, and Guildhall.
extensive, and the poor are provided for From Bristol travelers may return to
liberally and in various ways. Bristol America by the shortest and most direct
was the birthplace of many distinguished route, taking the steamers Great
of^ the
men, among whom may be mentioned Western Line. These are fine, first-class
Robert Southey Thomas Chatterton, the
; vessels sailing to New York, by taking
poet ; Bayley, the sculptor William of ; which the dangers and discomforts of the
Worcester, the typographer; and Sebas- English Channel are avoided. First-class
tian Cabot, who discovered Newfoundland fare, 13 guineas. Apply at the offices of
in 1499. The city suffered severely in the Mark Whitwill & Son, Grove Avenue,
Civil War of the seventeenth century, but Queen Square, Bristol.
was comparatively undisturbed during the Bristol to Ilfracombe, see Ilfracombe.
War of the Roses. Its castle was built by Bristol to Weston-super-Mare,AQ m.(va.i\).
the Earl of Gloucester, brother to the Em- Clifton is a charming suburb of Bristol,
press Matilda, and was long one of the and is situated near the gorge of the Avon,
chief Western strongholds having been
;
I
which is about eight miles distant from the
dismantled and its fortifications demolished river's mouth. This chasm is 700 feet In
b}'' order of Parliament in 1655, little now !
width, and is spanned by a beautiful sus-
remains but the exterior walls and bas- I
pension bridge. The water flows below at
tions. The Cathedral, once the church of a distance of 260 feet. On one side of the
a monastery founded in 1142 by Robert cliffs are the beautiful Leigh Woods, cover-
Fitzhardinge for Augustine canons, is sit- ing the cliffs with foliage, and on the other
uated on the right bank of the Avon, just are dotted the houses of Clifton, which ex-
outside the walls of Bristol it occupies the
; tend to the highest point. Here also are
site of the traditional Augustine oak, under the Hot Wells, to which Clifton owes its
whose branches a conference was held be- j
fame and prosperity.
tween the founder of the English Church Cook's Folly is the name given to a pict-
and the British Christians. Of the origi- uresque tower situated on a hill overlook-
nal church built by Fitzhardinge only the ing the Avon, dating from 1693. It is so
walls of the transepts, the vestibule, and named from a tradition that a person called
chapter-house remain. Although the See Cook shut himself up in the building to
I
pay for this disloyalty. After Monmouth's is the great Tom of Exeter, weighing
defeat at Sedgemoor, Colonel Kirke and 12,500 pounds. The west front, lately re-
his followers were sent to Taunton, and stored, is the finest part of the building,
executions succeeded each other without and its stained window is greatly admired.
any form of trial. One hundred persons In the interior are several monuments of
were put to death in the week following interest. The Chapter-house, which is
the battle, and then the "Bloody Assize" Gothic, with a carved roof, contains a fine
presided over by Jeffreys began. The library. North of the city are the ruins
judge on his arrival threatened to depop- of Rougemont Castle, said by some to have
ulate the town, and only departed after been erected in the time of Julius Caesar,
having hung 97 persons and transported b}'- others attributed to the Conqueror.
385. It was razed by Parliament in 1646,
The Church of St. Mar}' Magdalene is when taken by Fairfax after a siege. It
celebrated for its fine tower, in four stories, commands a fine view of the neighbor-
153 feet in height, which in lightness of ef- hood.
fect, and richness of decoration and design, An excursion ma}' be made from Exeter
holds the first place among the Perpendic- to Exmouth, about lOf miles from the for-
ular towers for which Somersetshire is fa- mer place. This pleasant watering-place is
mous. In addition to several other church- situated at the mouth of the River Exe, and
es, the remaining public buildings are the affords a fine harbor for ships of 300 tons.
Town-hall, Literar}^ Institution (containing Here Alfred the Great made the first attempt
a good Museum), and the County Shire- toward the formation of a British nav}'.
hall. A.W. Kinglake, Esq., author of the The town is sheltered from the northeast
" History of the CrimeanAVar " and " Eo- and southeast winds by high hills which
then," was a native of Taunton. rise in the background, rendering it cele-
Taunton Junction to Ilfracomhe, via Barn- brated for the mildness of its climate. Pop-
staple, see Ilfracombe, Route 105. ulation 5228. Hotels, Imperial and Beacon.
Continuing on through Cullompton, an Not far from Exmouth, in the parish of
ancient but uninteresting town, on the Riv- East Budleigh, is the house in which Sii
er Culme, we reach, five miles distant from "Walter Raleigh first saw the light in 1552.
Tivei'ton, Tiverton Junction. Population, Leaving Exeter, we soon reach Teign-
10,025. Hotels, Angel SlW^ Three Tuns. This mouth, situated at the mouth of the River
town is situated at the junction of the Riv- Teign, and containing G022 inhaliitants.
ers Exe and Loman, and contains little of Hotels, Royal and Commercia\ This is,
interest but the church and castle. The next to Torquay, the largest watering-
270
Torquay. [ENGLAND.] Dartmoctii.
place in the county of Devonshire. Its by the promontories of Hope's Nose and
distinguishing feature is a wide esplanade Berry Head. This bay is well protected
from prevalent winds, and is capable of af-
called the Den, formed by tlic sliifting
fording safe anchorage to the largest fleets
sands at the mouth of the river from this
:
present a very picturesque appearance, but taining 2000 vessels. At the mouth of the
they are unfortunately fast giving place to
I
bly, Newcomin, the inventor of the steam- meat is always kept in the place, as during
engine Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who took the winter the boat is often unable to effect
;
Hotel, all forming part of one block, running along the side of the harbor.
in the Ionic style the Athenaeum, the
; Leaving Falmouth we rejoin the main
Exchange, Public Library, and Guildhall. line of the Great Western Railway at
The three harbors of Plymouth are the — Truro, the capital of Cornwall, containing
mouth of the Plym, called Catwater; the 11,377 inhabitants, and continue to Pen-
estuary of the Tamar, called Hamoaze zance, vi'hich. stands at the terminus of the
and Sutton Pool ; and are capable of con- railwav. On our route we pass Marazion,
272
y-
Gloucester. [ENGLAND.] ChELTEXHA>:
Town-hall, Corn-market, and St. Paul's Jail, Infirmary, and numerous churches.
Chui-ch. Five miles from Penzance is a In St. Mary's Square Bishop Hooper suf-
Druidical circle called the "Merry ]Maid- fered martyrdom at the stake.
ens,'' and another north of the town of Cheltenham, one of the most fashionable
nineteen stones, with one in the centre, watering-places of England, is situated on
called Boscawen Un. Among other olj- the River Chelt, about seven miles from
jects of interest in the neighborhood are Gloucester. Population 44,519. Hotels,
" The Pipers,''' a cromlech Lamoi'na Cave,
; Queen's, Lansdowne, and Plow. The town
and the celebrated Logan Stone, which may lies in a fertile valley, protected from cold
be moved by a touch, thougli weighing winds by the Cots wold Hills, and is a clean
90 tons. This rock was overturned by and well-built place. The springs, which
Lieutenant Goldsmith in 1824 as the re- are chaU'beate and cathartic, were lirst
sult of a wager this so roused the indig-
; discovered in 1715. The chief spas are
nation of the neighboring people that he the Montpellier, where a band plays morn-
was obliged to replace it, which he did at ing and evening the Pitville, whose
;
great cost. From Penzance a drive of Pump-room was built in 1824, with a Gre-
eleven miles brings us to Land's End, the cian portico and dome ; and the Cambray
most westerly point of the English coast. Chalybeate Spa. The spa of the Royal Old
About a mile from the shore are tiic Long- Wells, once so famous, has been converted
ehip Reefs, with a light-house 11 2 feet above into a theatre, and the road leading to it is
the level of the sea. a line elm avenue, which forms the princi-
pal promenade for visitors. Cheltenham
is the second healthiest place in England.
by rail. Time, 7 hrs. 10 min. Ludloic, standing on the River Teme, con-
j
'
Route No. a population of 6033. Hotel, A ngel.
'
the celebrated '-Man of Ross," who is bur- defense of the Welsh borders was intrust-
ied here. Hotels, Royal and Swan. ed. King HenrA' YII. held his court here,
Hereford is 49 miles by rail from Bristol. and his son Arthur was here married to
Hotels, Green Drar/on and City A r})is. Pop- Catharine of Aragon. Seven miles from
ulation 18.355. Hereford was in former Ludlow is Wigmore, a charming spot, with
times protected by a castle, built by King a ruined castle, built In- the Norman kings.
Harold, but its site is now occupied by the For Shretcsbury and Chester, see Route
Nelson Column. Here De Spenser, Ed- No. 85, and Liverpool, see Route No. 84.
ward II.'s favorite, was executed by the
barons in 1322 and here, four years later,
;
Continuing our route from Hereford, we Bristol to Xew Milford, via Xetcport, Car-
pass ?.Ioreton Station, near which are two diff, Swansea, Caermarthen, Whitkmd (Ten-
oak trees called Adam and Ere. At the bv, Pembroke). Time, 6 hrs. 25 m. fare, ;
and another established during the reign themselves into a sort of federative mon-
274
Newport. [ENGLAND.] Chepstow.
ruins, its mountains, valleys, and water- overhanging the Wye. Portions of this
fiiUs, as well as some of the mechanical building were erected 800 years ago by
wonders of the world, such as Stephenson's William Fitz-Osborne, Earl of Hereford, It
tubular bridges over the Menai Straits and is now almost entirely in ruins, and cov-
at Conway, should visit first Chester via ered with ivy. Henry Martin, one of the
Birkenhead then, by the Holyhead Eail- regicides, was confined here for upward of
;
Western line (which develops the most the Monnon and th3 Wye. Hotels, Beau-
I
beautiful and picturesque scenery of South fort Arms and Kinr/s Head.
!
The castle
Wales) through Swansea, 3Ierthyr (by of Monmouth is very ancient, having been
I
night), Cardiff, Newport, Monmouth, Glou- built in Saxon times. It was the place of
cester, Bristol, Bath, and Reading, to Lon- residenca of Henry IV.
I
and here, in 1387,
;
quis of Bute, is one of the richest noble- Bryn is 584 feet high, surmounted by a
men in the kingdom, possessing an income huge cromlech, called Arthur's Stone, the
of £300.000. Cardiff Castle was founded peninsula is inhabited by a colony of Flem-
in the 11th century by a Norman baron ings. Avho settled here during the reign of
an octagonal keep 75 feet high is still en- Henry I. These people do not speak the
tire. In this castle Robert Curthose, broth- Welsh language, and hav-e but little inter-
er of Henry I., died in 1133, having been
course with them, differing even in their
blinded and imprisoned there for life by the dress. Mumbles" Head is on the southeast
king. Cardiff is the depot of the anthra- side of the peninsula, and Worm's Head at
cite coal used by the navy. the Avestern extremity. The latter de-
Sicamea is situated on a bay of the riA'es its name from the shape of the cliffs,
same name, called. for its beauty, "the Bay Avhich run out into the sea for three quar-
of Naples in miniature." ters of a mile, and resemble the head of a
It is -a. place of
41,606 inhabitants, and is chiefly renowned sea-serpent. The extremity is from 200
for the enormous copper-works in the vi- to 300 feet high, under Avhich there is a
cinity. Although copper is not found in vast cave. A regatta is held yearly in
the neighborhood, it is brought here to be Swansea Bay. The distance from SAvan-
fluxed on account of the abundance of sea to London by the Great Western Kail-
coal. There are eight extensive works way i.^ 216 miles.
situated on the Eiver Towy and the sea- Th3 town of Pembroke deriA'es its name
side ; in one of these from 500 to 600 men from the Welsh Avords pen fro, or head of
are emploj'ed. The earliest was establish- the peninsula. It is situated on a long
ed in 1720. Copper is brought not only point of land projecting into a creek of Mil-
from Cornwall, but from America and Aus- ford HaA-en. Population 15.571. Hotels,
tralia, and 20.000 tons on an average are Dragon and Lion. On an eminence of the
smelted here yearly. Swansea is one of town stand the ruins of a Norman castle,
the most considerable sea-ports of "Wales: begun in 1092 by Arnulph de Montgom-
a good harbor was made by running out ery'. Here the Earl of Richmond, after-
two piers, one 1800 feet long, into the baA' ward Henry VII., Avas born, and from here
this, however, is dry at low water, in con- he mar<^hed to gain his crown on BoSAvorth
sequence of which floating docks have been Field. Under the chapel is an enormous
constructed. Swansea Castle was built by caA-ern called the Wogan, Avhich opens to-
Henry de Beaumont in 1099: a large quad- ward the sea. The keep is in good pres-
rangular tower is all that now remains of erA^ation, and is 75 feet high. The A'isitor
the building, and it is used for a poor- should by all means A'isit Milford Haven.
house and jail. There are several fine This is generally done in a boat from Pem-
buildings in the town among others, the broke.
; The harbor is considered one of
Koyul Institution of South Wales, a build- the finest in the Avorld, and is capable of
ing one hundred feet long, Avith a portico containing the entire English naA-y. The
and Ionic columns a theatre, assembly- entrance to the haven is exceedingly fine,
;
rooms, and Mechanics' Institute. The very and the Avater Avithin is as smooth as that
things that add to the prosperity of Swan- of a lake.
sea in one way detract from it in another, Four miles from Pembroke stands CarcAv
as before the establishment of the copper Castle, built during the reign of Henry L
works it was a favorite Avatering - place. by the ancestor of the Fitzgeralds. This
Now, however, in certain states of wind, is one of the finest old ruins in Wales, and
the fumes of the copper are throAvn OA-er was formerh' one of the royal demesnes
the tOAvn, and destroy the freshness of the of the Welsh princes. It contains tAvo
surrounding scenerj'. The principal ho- great halls AAell Avorthy of notice, one 100
tels in Swansea are the Mackworih Anns feet in length, the other 80 feet.
and Castle. Fine sea-bathing may be had Tenhy. a fashionable Avatering-place ten
at The Mumbles, six miles westAvard, on miles from Pembroke, contains a popula-
the lower peninsula. This is a rugged tion of 29S2. Hotels, Gate House and
tract of land lying between SAvansea and White Lion. Tcnb}' is situated on a rocky
Caermarthen Bays. It is traA-ersed by a peninsula which stretches into the Bristol
rid^^e of red sandstone. Avhich at Caath Channel the houses are Avell built, the
;
276
Caermarthex. [ENGLAND.] Mertiiyr Tydvil.
ery and excursions are delightful in fact, ; Swansea to Chester, via Merthyr Tydvil,
ever}' thing combines to make it a charm- Brecon, Builth, Llanidloes, Oswestry, and
ing place of summer resort. There are Ruuhon, by rail. Time, 9 hrs. 10 mia.
here the remains of an ancient castle, sup- Swansea, see Route No. 98.
posed to have been erected by the Flem- Merthyr Tydvil, signifying ^lartyr Tyd-
ings, and the ancient walls which sur- vil, derives its name from St.Tudfyl, daugh.
rounded the town many places
itself are in ter of a Welsh chief, who suffered martyr-
entire. The church,
a fine old building, dom for her religion during the early ages
with a spire 152 feet high, dates back as of the Church. The town is situated at
early as 1250. Tenby is a great place for the head of the Vale of TafF, and contains
naturalists of the six hundred varieties
; 83,875 inhabitants. The surrounding coun-
of shells contained in the British collec- try is celebrated for its thick and rich veins
tions, not less than one half were found of coal, and in the town itself nothing but
here. Excursions should be made to Cal- blast-furnaces, rolling-mills, and forges are
dy, St. Catharine's, and St. Margaret's Isl- seen in every direction. The iron-works
ands. The last is famed for its magnifi- are fifty in number each furnace is about
;
cent caverns and for the ruins of a monas- 55 feet high, contains 5000 cubic feet, and
tic cell it is reached by crossing the ledges
; is capable of smelting 100 tons of pig-iron
of rock when the tide is out. Horse-races weekly. In the largest works, belonging
take place at Tenby in August or Septem- to Lady Guest and Messrs. Crawshay, from
ber, accompanied, as usual, by balls a fine ;
3000 to 5000 hands are employed." 3Ier-
band plays every day during the season. thyr should by all means be visited at
There are also a small theatre, assembly- night, when the red glare of the furnaces
rooms, a library and reading-room, a liter- lights up theplace, and produces a strik-
ary and scientific institution, and a bowl- ing eflFect; in the daytime the town is
ing-green and cricket-ground. Boat-races gloomy. Hotels, Castle and Bush.
occasionally take place in the bay. There The direct road from Merthyr to Brecon
is constant steam communication between leads through a mountain pass, with the
Tenb}' and Bristol, a distance of 108 miles, Brecknockshire Beacons on one side, 2862
the time occupied being about ten hours. feet high, and on the other Mount Capel-
Caermarthen, the capital of its county, lante, 2394 feet high. The distance is about
and one of the principal towns of Wales, 18 miles. Brecon is situated at the con-
is situated on the River Towy, and con- fluence of the L"sk and Honddu, in the
tains 9993 inhabitants. Hotels, Ivi/ Busk midst of most beautiful and romantic scen-
and Boar's Head. The former was the ery. Hotels, Castle and Swan. Popula-
property of Sir Richard Steele, whose com- tion 5639. The castle was founded by
edy, "The Conscious Lovers," was written Newmarch, a Norman baron nothing now
;
in the neighborhood of the town. Caer- remains but the keep, called '' Ely Tower,"'
marthen occupies the site of the Roman so named from Dr. Morton, bishop of Ely,
station ISIaridunum. It contains a fine who was imprisoned here by order of Rich'
town-hall, a market-house, a grammar- ard III. It was also the scene of the con-
school, a Presbyterian college, etc. Near ference between the bishop and the Duke
the old Guildhall is a column to Sir T. of Buckingham. The other principal build-
Picton, who represented the borough in ings are the County Hall, ]Market-house,
Parliament. A considerable foreign and Assize Courts, three churches, theatre, etc.
coasting trade is carried on by the inhab- Sir David Gon, Shakspeare's Fluellen,
itants, there being a good harbor about resided in this neighborhood. He was
three miles from the town. knighted by Henry V. at Agincourt while
New MVford (see Waterford, and Routes at the point of death, having sacrificed his
between Ireland and Great Britain, p. 100) life to save the king. The " vShoulder o'
to Waterford, by steamer; time, 8^ hrs. Mutton" Inn at Brecon is pointed out as
;—io Cork, about 12 hrs. fare
fare, 125. 6d. ; the birthplace of Mrs. Siddons. From Bre-
15s.;— to London, by rail; time, 8 hrs. con to Hay the distance is about 15 miles.
fare, 435. 3d. Hay stands on the borders of the thre©
277
Oswestry, [ENGLAND.] RCABON JUXCTIOX.
counties of Brecon, Hereford, and Radnor, I his territory. Having been a great bene-
and is the highest point to which barges factor to different monasteries, he was can-
ascend, in the Upper Wye. It is an old onized after his deatli, and a well erected
Norman town, founded by Bernard New- his memory still remains near the
I
to
march. The castle was destroyed by Owen church. The latter building occupies the
Glendower, and now stands in ruins. Clif- site of a former monaster^', and is a vener-
ford Castle^ three miles from Hay, was able-looking pile, of which the tower is
built b}^ Fitz-Osborne, a kinsman of Wil- the oldest part; the restoration of this
liam the Conqueror. Here fair Rosamond church was begun in 1872. Old Oswestry,
Cliffora was born. or Caer Ogyrfan, the name given to a fine
Travelers ma}' continue from Hay to British post, lies about one mile to the
Hereford (122^ miles), thence to London via north. It is defended by a triple rampart
Gloucester and Reading. I unusually high, with entrances to the north
Builth is delightfully situated on the j
and south the total area covered bj''
;
traitors of Builth. The medicinal springs ference, is said to be the largest in Wales.
of Builth are at Park Wells, about a mile Within its limits stands a column 101 feet
from the town, where a pump-room has high, erected to the memory of the father
been erected. The springs are three in of the present baronet b}' his mother.
number, and of different properties sa- — The owners are the descendants of Sir
line, sulphurous, and chalybeate. AVilliam Williams, Speaker of the House
Llan'dloes is a small town situated at of Commons during the reign of Charles
the confluence of the Clywedog and Severn II., and afterward solicitor-genaral during
Rivers, and contains a population of 3127. the trial of the seven bishops. The house,
Hotel, Trewj/then Arms. Excursions may part of which dates from the 15th cent-
be made from here to the source of the ury, was unfortunately destroyed by fire
Rheidol, on the edge of Plinlimmon. in 1858 ; tlie present building is in the Re-
The road from Llanidloes to Aberystwith, naissance stj'le, and contains some inter-
via Devil's Bridge, a distance of twenty esting family portraits by Van Dyck, Sir
miles across the Welsh Alps, is both wild Joshua Reynolds, and Kneller. In former
and romantic. times ^^'ynnstay was the residence of the
Oswestry^ although situated within the Lord of Bromfield and Yale, Madoc ap Gru-
borders of Shropshire, has much the char- fydd Maelor it came into the possession of
;
acter and appearance of a Welsh town. It the Wynns in 1G70, and in that of the present
derives its name from Oswald, King of family, who are distinguished for having
Northumberland, who was slain here in many times declined the peerage, in the
642, in battle with the King of Mercia, beginning of the last centuiy. The church
whom he was endeavoring to dispossess of near the park gates is filled with inter'isfc-
278
Caernarvon. [ENGLAND.] Barmoltii.
ing monuments of tho Wynn family of 1284 and 1320, and covers two acres and a
which the most noticeable is an altar tomb half. The external walls are from eight
near the communion tabic, witli two re- to ten feet in thickness, and are guarded
cumbent figures representing an armed by thirteen towers, one of which now forms
knight and lady of the Eyton family, the town prison. In the Eagle Tower Ed-
152G, dressed in the style of Henry VII. ward II., the first Prince of Wales, is said
Gardden is the name given to another en- to have been born.
campment, defended by concentric dikes, The ascent of Mount Snowdon should
which is situated on a hill three quarters be made from Caernarvon. For the short-
of a mile to the left of Ruabon. and easiest route, go to Llanberis from
est
Wrexham is the last place of importance Caernarvon by rail, eight miles, and then
passed before reaching Chester. This is on foot to the summit, five miles or, mak-
i
;
an ancient town, mentioned by the Saxon ing the ascent from Beddgelert (13 miles
chroniclers as Wrightelsham it contains from Caernarvon), the scenery is exceed-
:
one of the finest churches in Wales, in the ingly fine, though the distance to the sum-
\
Perpendicular style, built in 1470, with a mit is greater (six miles and a half), and
tower 135 feet in height, which was com- the ascent somewhat steeper.
i
The Capel
pleted after the church — about 1500. In Curig route is the longest and most fa-
[
the northern aisle is a fine monument to I tiguing, but the sceners' is truly magnifi-
the memory of Mrs. Mary Myddleton, of ,
cent. Snowdon above the
rises 3571 feet
Chirk Castle, by Roubiliac, representing level of the sea: the summit
surrounded is
a female starting from the tuml) at the Iw a low wall, and is five or six yaids in
sound of the last trumpet. In the church- diameter. In fine weather, the Isle of ]Man
j-ard are some curious epitaphs, of which and parts of England, Scotland, and Ire-
we give the following example : land, may be clearly seen. Descending by
" Born in America, in Europe bred, way of Beddgelert, Pont Aberglasly n should
In Africa traveled, in Asia wed, be visited. This is a single stone arclx
NVliere long he lived and thrived at London thrown over a rapid mountain torrent
;
"Wrexham is now chiefly famous for its We next proceed to Barmouth, whose
ale. Population 8000. chief attraction is its vicinity to the beau-
Chester, see Route No. 85. tiful Vale of Manddach, said to be superior
|
Caei'narvon. Population 8512. Hotels, nient centre for numerous excursions, viz.,
Royal Sportsman and Castle. Caernarvon the ascent of Cader Idris, Machynlleth,
occupies the site of a Roman town called the waterfalls, etc. Many Roman coins
Segontium, the only station possessed by and other antiquities have been found in
the Romans in this part of Cambria. Frag- the neighborhood of the town. Popula-
ments of the ancient walls may still be tion 2217. Hotel, Golden Lion. Bala is
seen. The castle is the principal object of 18 miles distant from Dolgelly, beautifully
interest; it was built between the yeara situated at the foot of Bala Lake. Through
27D
Llangollen. [ENGLAND.] Abertstwith.
tins lake, -which is about four miles in
length, the Kiver Dee takes its course, ris- ROUTE No. 101.
ing five miles distant in Arrau Fowddy, Aherystwith Caermarthen, via Lampe-
to
the highest of the Berwyn Mountains. ter, by rail. Time, 3 hrs. 15 min.
The famous waterfall of Pistyll Rhaiadyr Aherystwiih^ one of the principal towns in
is one of the sights of the neighborhood. the county of Cardigan, is situated near the
This is one of the head springs of the Ya- junction of the Ystwith and the Rheidol.
nat, and falls from a height of 140 feet, Hotels, Queen's and Bellevue. Population
then runs through a rock, and falls again 7000. Aherystwith is one of the most agree-
a distance of 70 feet: the surrounding able and salutary watering-places of Wales,
scenery is wild and beautiful. Continu- being protected from the north and east
ing our route we reach Corwen, a neat lit- winds by the Craig-lais mountain range. It
tle town situated at the foot of the Ber- isa pretty and attractive town, containing
wyn Mountains. Notice the church, a assembly rooms, two churches, a library-,
quaint old building in the form of a cross, i
theatre, baths, etc. The Marine Terrace,
and in the church-yard an old stone pillar which follows the curve of Cardigan Bay
called Glyndwr's Sword. The citadel of and overlooks the beach, is a favorite prom-
the Druids, where Caractacus effected his enade for visitors, and commands a most
retreat after the battle of Caer Caradock, glorious view. At each end are heights
is just beyond Corwen, Ten miles farther laid out in public walks, and on one of them
•we reach Llangollen. Hotels, the Hand stand the ruins of a castle. This building
and Royal. Population 5799. The Yale was first erected by Gilbert de Strongbow
of Llangollen is celebrated for its beauty, in 1109. It was the stronghold of Cadwal-
though hardly equal to the Yale of the I
lader, andAvas destroyed by Owen Gwyn-
Cross at upper end.
its It is surrounded i
edd. Having been rebuilt by Edward I.
by hills, in which limestone, coal, and I in 1127, it was finalh' destroyed by Crom-
slate are quarried. On one of these stand Avell. Near the town is a chalybeate
the ruins of an ancient Welsh fortress, call- spring, whose waters resemble those of
ed Caer Dinas Bran, almost inaccessible Tunbridge Wells.
from the steepness of the mountain. The The season extends from June to Octo*
River Dee is here crossed by a four-arched her. Races are held in August or Septem-
Gothic bridge, dating from the fourteenth ber, when fine balls are also given there;
century'. Farther down the river is the is everything, in fact, to please and attract
Aqueduct Pont-y-Cysylltan, which carries the visitor. One of the most amusing oc-
the Ellesmere Canal over the valley. This cupations is searching on the beach for
was constructed by Mr. Telford in 1805, carnelians, agates, jaspers, etc., which are
and consists of 19 stone arches, which sup- found in great numbers lapidaries are
;
port an iron trough 1007 feet in length. also at hand cut them in any form.
to
In the Yalley of the Cross, a little above Among the many
pleasant excursions to
Llangollen, are the beautiful remains of be made from Aherystwith is that to the
Yalle Crucis Abbey, founded in 1200. The DeviVs Bridge, about twelve miles distant.
ruins are covered with ivy, and present a The road to this bridge gradually ascends
very picturesque appearance. Near the to a height of 930 feet above the level of
ruins is Elliseg"s Pillar, still more ancient, the sea, and commands a most beautiful
erected by Concenn in memory of Elliseg, view of the valley of the Rheidol stretch-
who died fighting the Saxons in 607, Rua- ing out below, crossed by its winding river.
bon Junction is but a short distance from The bridge is formed by two arches, one
Llangollen. Though a place containing above another, thrown over a deep cleft i]i
14,000 inhabitants, it has little to arrest the the rocks, through which the River Mynacli
attention of the traveler, who may here re- descends in teirific cascades. The lower
join the main line and proceed to London arch is believed to have been built during
via Shrewsbury, Birmingham, "N^'aruick, the reign of William Rufus by the monks
Leamington, and Oxford, all of which are of Strata-Florida Abbey; the upper arch
described elsewhere. Avas constructed in 1753. The Devil's
Ruahon, see Route No. 99, and Chester, Bridge Hotel stands at the head of the val-
see Route No. 85. lev, near the falls.
280
Lampeter. [ENGLAND.] Llandovery.
Continuing our route from Aberystwith,
ve reach A berayron, a thriving market-town ROUTE No. 102.
and sea-port, wliich has lately become some- Swansea to Shrewsbury, via Llandovery
what frequented as a bathing-place. It and Craven Arms, by rail. Time, 6 hrs.
lies at the mouth of the Ayron, a small 54 min.
stream only 12 miles in length, which is Swansea, see Route No. 98.
famed for the excellence of its trout and Llandilofawr is one of the first stations
salmon. It has two piers, recently con- of importance passed on this route. The
structed also a town -hall and markets
; tovvn is principally situated on the west
house. The remains of a circular camp, bank of the River Towy, which is noted
attributed to Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, A.D. for the excellence of its salmon, trout, and
11-18, are to be seen on the coast a short eels. In the neighborhood stand the ruins
distance north of the town. of Dynevor Castle, and N(r\vton Park, the
Lampeter (Hotel, Black Lioii) is situated seat of Lord Dynevor, one of the finest es-
on the banks of the Teifi, one of the most tates in Wales. We
next reach Llandovery,
celeljrated fishing rivers in Wales. It con- believed to have been a Roman station from
tains a town-hall, parish church, and sev- the number of coins and other antiquities
eral schools and chapels but the principal
;
found in the vicinity. Population 1927.
object of interest is St. David's College, This town is situated on the River Bran,
opened in 1827, for the education of young no ;i- its junction with the Towy, and this
men intending to enter the Church, who situation, together with the proximity of
are unable to meet the expenses of a uni- other small streams, is an explanation of
versity education at Cambridge or Oxford. the name Llandovery, which is a corruption
This building originated with Dr. Burgess, of the Welsh Llan-ym-Ddyfri, signifying
former Bishop of St. David's, and was erect- Church among the Waters. The absence
ed at a cost of $100,000, 830,000 of which of all manufactures renders this a very
"was given by the government near the time quiet place there is a fine collegiate build-
:
ofits completion, and 85000 by King George ing called the Welsh Educational Institu-
IV. Near the town the Teiti is crossed by tion, founded and endowed by Thomas Phil-
a bridge said to have been erected in the ips, Esq. Hotels, ra5?/e and Clarence. Pop-
time of King Stephen, which has given ulation 1927. The ruins of an ancient cas-
the name of Lampeter Pont Stephen to the tle stand at a short distance from the town,
town :this, however, is only seen in public but little can be related with certainty
documents. either as to its origin or history.
Caermarlhen, see Route No. 98. Knighton, situated on the River Teme,
Caermarthen to London, 244 miles time ;
derives its Welsh name of Tref-j'-Clawdd,
6 h. 53 m. fare, 405. M. ;—fo Bristol; time|
; or Tower upon the Dike, to the proximity
5 h. 13 m. fare, 18^. 7d. (by steamer to
; of Ofi'a's Dike. Near the town are two Ro-
Bristol, 138 miles);— ^o Abeiystwiih ;
time, man encampments, one of which is said to
2 h. 43 m. fare, £1 4s. 6d. (52 miles) ;—io
; be that of the Roman commander Ostorius.
Pembroke, 43 miles; time, 2 hrs. •,—to Ten- Prom Knighton a ride of thirty minutes
by, via Whitland Junction time, 1 h. 38
; brings us to Craven .4 n?^?, where we join
m. ,—to Swansea (32 miles), via Landore the Shrewsbury and Hereford Railway
Junction; time, 1 h. 30 m. ;—to New Mil- (see Route No. 97).
ford; time 1 h. 40 m. fare, 8^. id.
;
pool and Abergavenny, by rail. Time, 1 h. thony being a corruption from Llandewi
57 m. Nant Hondeni, or the Church of St. David
Ketcport, see Route No. 08. in the valley of the Black Water. The
Pontypool is reached in half an hour from conventual church is now the principal
Newport, after passing through several un- remains, but is found to be quite destitute
important stations. This town is situated of ornament part of the priory has also
;
so extensively have the sources of em- (Routes 94 and 97) to Worcester and Lon-
;
Skirrid-fawr, 1498 feet. Abergavenny is lies three miles south of Windhfield. Near
the supposed site of the Gobannium oi the Odiham stand the ruins of an old castle in
Romans, and was formerly a walled town which David, King of Scotland, was con-
protected by a castle, built soon after the fined after his capture at Neville's Cross,
Korman conquest. The ruins of this build- and where he passed eleven long years in
ing are still visible, as well as those of a imprisonment. The line next crosses the
Benedictine monastery. The present town valley of the Loddon on an embankment,
consists of three main streets, which form and passes through the village of Old Bas-
thoroughfares to Monmouth, Brecon, and ing, where a battle was fought in 871 be-
Hereford. It is a flourishing place, with tween the Danes and Saxons, ending in
large markets and thriving tradesmen, al- the defeat of the latter. Basingstoke, men-
though no extensive manufactures (unless tioned in Domesday Book as Basingtoches, is
we except that of shoes) are carried on forty-eight miles distant from London, and
;
this prosperity is chiefly owing to the vi- contains 4654 inhabitants. The corn-trade
cinity of extensive coal and iron works. and malting form its principal business.
At one time periwigs, made of goats' hair,
Avere extensively fabricated here being so
;
valuable as to sell for $150 to $200 each; Salisbury, the capital of Wiltshire, situ-
but this is now discontinued, as well as the ated at the confluence of the Avon, Willey,
manufacture of Welsh flannel, for -whicli and Bourne, contains 12,278 inhabitants;
Abergavenny was once noted. This town 96 miles from London by South Western.
gives the title of Earl to the Nevill family.Posting, etc. The Cathedral of Salisbury
Hotels, Angel and King's Head. is a magnificent edifice erected in the 13th
beth's Grammar School, where Addison twelve feet tliick. There were two en-
was educated the Assembly Rooms, The-
; trances to the exterior ramparts, one of
atre, and the Council-chamber, erected in which, the western, was guarded by a horn-
1795 at the expense of the second Earl work which is still in existence. These
of Kadnor. There are also two museums intrenchments are not generally' believed
in Salisbury, the Salisbury and South to be either British or Roman work, for
Wilts Museum and the Blackmorc ]Mu- when the hill was in possession of the Ro-
seum. The former, situated in St. Ann's mans it was defended by a simple escarp-
Street, is open to the public daily from ment the citadel and its defenses were
;
two to live, Satui'days excepted. The col- probably erected by the Saxons under
lection is arranged in three rooms, and con- King Alfred, who did all in his power to
sists, 1st, of objects illustrative of natural strengthen his kingdom against the incur-
history in the neighborhood of Salisbury; sions of the Danes.
2d, of archaeological specimens; and, od, of A mesbiirT), prettily situated in the valley
geological specimens. The Blackmorc Mu- of the L'pper Avon, is a place of consider-
seum, open on the same days and hours, able antiquity, believed to have derived
was founded by W. Blackmorc, of Liver- its name from Aurelius Ambrosius, British
pool, and is supported entirely at his ex- king during the 6th century. A Bene-
pense. It is divided into four parts or dictine nunnery was founded here by
groups: 1. Remains of animals fcund as- Queen Elfrida in 980, as an expiation for
sociated with the works of prehistoric the murder of her step-son. During the
man. 2. Stone implements. 3. Bronze im- reign of Henry II., this nunnery was given
plements. 4. Implements, ornaments, and to the great convent of Fontevrault and
weapons of modern savages which may Anjou, and from that time greatly in-
serve to throw light upon the use of sim- creased in splendor and riches. It be-
ilar objects belonging to prehistoric times. came a favorite retreat of ladies of royal
About three miles from Salisbury is and noble birth Mar}-, sixth daughter of
:
Longford Castle, the seat of the present Edward I., took the veil here in company
earl, which contains a valuable collection with thirteen noble ladies; Queen Eleanor
of paintings. died here in 1292. and Catharine of Aragon
In Salisbury Plain, about nine miles was lodged here in 1501 upon first arriving
from the city, is situated the famous mon- in England. Amesbury is also mentioned
innent of Stonehcnge, considered the great- inlegendary history as the scene of Or.een
est wonder in the west of England. A Guinevere's retirement after her tlightfrom
carriage may be procured for tliis excur- King Arthur's court and the dissolution of
sion, the cost with one horse there and the Round Table.
283
Stonkiiengi!:. [ENGLAND.] Stonehenge.
This monastery -was granted to the Earl of square, roughly hewn blocks, most clev-
of Hertford at the Dissolution, and his resi- erly joined at a height of sixteen feet from
dence was erected from portions of the old the ground. Within this was an inner
convent buildings. It became successively circle composed of about forty unhewn
the property of the families of Ailesbury, syenite obelisks, four feet in height, re-
Boyle, and Queensbury, by marriage, sale, sembling many stone monuments found
and inheritance, and was finally bought in in diflferent parts of Wales. The great
1824 by Sir Edmund Antrobus. This was ellipse Avithin this inner circle formerly
at one time the retreat of Gay, who while '
seven trilithons
consisted of five or —
here composed the "Beggars' Opera." The name given of stones placed
to triplets
grounds of the house, through which the two upright and one across. These trili-
Avon flows, are most beautiful. The in- thons increased i;i height from the north-
terior commands a view of a densely east to the southwest, the largest being
wooded hill, whose summit is crowned about twenty-five feet in height. Within
by a British work commonly known as the trilithons was an inner ellipse of nine-
the ramparts. The church of Amesbury, teen syenite obelisks, resembling those of
believed to be that of the abbey, was re- the inner circle. Within these Avas placed
paired in 1852 it is a cruciform build- the altar stone.
; This stone still remains
ing, 128 feet in length, in the Early En- in its former position, but the present ap-
glish style with a low square tower in the pearance of Stonehenge differs vastly from
centre. the description here given. Many of the
Stonehenge^ two miles from Amesbury, is stones have been overthrown, others have
situated in the centre of Salisbur}^ Plain. disappeared, and the whole is overgrown
Antiquaries differ greatly concerning the with moss and weeds. The first impression
object of this curious structure it has been received by the traveler is generally one
;
attributed to the Druids, the Danes, and of disappointment, which, however, disaf)-
tlie Romans by different parties. When pears after an inspection of the ruins. We
in a perfect state it consisted of two cir- next proceed to Wilfon, a small town of
cles and two ellipses of upright stones, sur- great antiquity, once fcimous as the capital
rounded by a bank and ditch. This was of the kingdom of Wessex. A monastery
approached by an avenue, still easily traced was founded here by Wulstan, Earl of the
by banks of earth proceeding along which Wilsaitas, A.D. 800, of which Wulstan's
;
the traveler first reaches a solitar}' stone widow, Ethelburga, was the first prioress.
sixteen feet high, now in a leaning posi- This monastery was refounded by King
tion. This is called the Friar's Heel, from Alfred, and continued in existence until
a legend according to which Stonehenge the Dissolution, when it was given to Sir
was erected by the Evil Spirit, who was William Herbert, first Earl of Pembroke.
watched during his operations by a holy The members of this family have long been
friar;
the Evil One, having exultingly re- distinguished as patrons of art and litera-
marked aloud that no one would be able to ture, as identified in the persons of Hol-
know how the thing was done, the monk bein, Shakspeare (who acted here with
in hiding incautiouslv replied, ' That's his troop in IGOo before James I.), Ben
more than thee can tell," and then hasten- Jonson, Inigo Jones, Van Dyck, and Mas-
ed to make his escape. The enraged spirit singer. The present building (Wilton
caught up a huge stone and flung it after House} is for the most part modern the ;
the intruder, but only succeeded in strik- porch was designed by Holbein. It con-
ing his heel. Certain it is that no ex- tains a fine collection of paintings, and
planation can be given for the isolated is renowned by its Van D}'cks and mar-
position of this stone. About forty yards bles. In the hall are numerous suits of
farther, the site of the earthern bank and armor, trophies of the victory gained by
ditch which surrounds Stonehenge is reach- the Spaniards over the French at the bat-
ed, now only slightly marked. The outer tle of St. Qucntin, in which a band of En-
circle of stones just within this ring for- glish, sent by Queen Mary, took part under
merly consisted of thirt\' upright blocks, the command of William, Earl of Pem-
I
placed three and a half feet apart, con- broke. Suits belonging to the Constable
'
nected at the top by a ring of stone formed Anne dn Montmorcncv, the Due de Mont-
i
284
TlVKRTOX. [ENGLAND.] Winchester.
pensier, and Louis de Bourbon, arc also to to Bideford,whence steamers run daily to
be seen here. Bristol. There is a line bridge, G77 feet in
The distance from Salisbury to Exeter length, which forms the principal prome-
is 87^ miles. nade of the inhabitants, with a quay ad-
Exeter, see Route No. 95. joining 1200 feet in length. The parish
Exeter (Route 95) time, 1 h. 34
to Bristol ;
church, erected in the 14th century, hav-
m. fare, \Q>s. Cd
; to London, Route 95)
;
;
ing become greatly dilapidated, was pulled
time, 4 h. 15 m. fare, 35s.
; to Plymouth;
; down and rebuilt in 18G2. In the church-
time, 1 h. 42 m. (Route 95) fore, lis. 6(/. ;—
;
yard are some curious epitaphs, from which
to Penzance (Route 95) time, 4 h. 55 m.
; we quote the following :
to Taunton Junction, in
By rail to Barnstaple, in 4 hrs. 50 ton fare, 19s.
;
min. ;
2 hrs.
London, via Bristol, in 7 h. 45 m. fare, 40s. ;
Anglo-Saxon Winfred, well known as St. London Dorcluster and Wei/mouth, via
to
Boniface. This town was once famous for Basingstoke, Winchester, and ISoulhampton,
the manufacture of woolen goods, but shoes by rail. Time, 6 hrs. 5 min.
are now the principal objects of trade. Pop- Basingstoke, see Route No. 104.
ulation 4048. Winchester is about G3 miles from Lon-
Eg(;.\ford, the property of the Earl of don. Population 14,776. Hotels, George
Portsmouth, is '21h miles from Exeter. and Black Swan. "^^'inchester Mas the
Barnstaple is a place of considerable an- place of residence of the later Saxon kings,
tiquity, situated on the River Taw it is ; and occasionally of their successors down
the capital of North Devon, and formerly to Henry VI II. The Cathedral is of great
possessed a castle and priory, of which no antiquity. Here the Domesday Book was
remains are now to be seen. Hotels, Golden kept until transferred to Westminster; here,
Lion and Fortescue Arms. The commerce in 1554, Queen Mary was married to Philiji
of this place in early times was considei*- of Spain. The County Hall is also a place
able, and its port occupied an important of great interest. It is 110 feet long, and
position as early as the reign of Edward contains a curious relic, as ancient as the
III. Five shijis were sent from here alone time ofKing Stephen, called. l//A?<r's7iOMnd
to repel tlie attack of the Spanish Armada. Table. This table is 18 feet in diameter,
The sights of Barnstiiple are few and unin- and on it are the portraits of the king and
teresting, and will hardly repay any length- his knigiits. Egbert of Wessex was here
ened stay in the town. Among the public crowned king of all England, and Ricliard
buildings are the Church, Guildhall, Queen I. was also crowned here on his return from
—
Anne's Walk formerly intended for an Ex- Austria. William of Wykoham's College
—
change and a bridge dating from the 13th is also worthy of notice, founded in 1339,
century. The poet Gay was born liere, and the chapel, hall, and cloisters of which are
the house occupied by him on the corner very fine. The scholars are regularly
of Joy Street may still be seen. transferred from here to New College, Ox.
[The railway continues from Barnstaple ford, founded by the same prelate.
285
SOUTHAMPTOX. [ENGLAND.] Dorchester.
From Winchester to Southampton the extinct, and the inhabitants are now cnief-
j
distance is about twelve miles. South- ly engaged in the coasting trade. The
ampton contains about 47,000 inhabit- exports are potters' clay and pitwood, and
ants. Principal hotels, Radley's and South- the imports timber, coal, and grain.
western. The fact is worth mentioning to Wareham is a neat, Avell-built town, with
American travelers that many different spacious streets, situated just above the
lines of steamers to America make this a junction of the Rivers Frome and Piddle.
stopping-place on their way to and from A castle once stood above the former river,
the Continent. Notice a beautiful mili- whose site is still known as the Castle
tary hospital, the foundation of which was Close. This is a place of great antiquity,
laid by the queen in 1866. It is a quarter and was well known in Saxon times, Avhen
of a mile in length, and presents a beau- it suffered from many a Danish invasion.
tiful fa9ade. If you have time, return- The remains of a priory, founded by Aid-
ing from the Isle of Wight, or on your helm, Bishop of Sherborne, in 709, are still
way there, we would advise making a visit to be seen near St. Mary's Church. This
to Netley Abbey, about three miles from church is the only one of eight churches
Southampton. These ruins, with their once possessed by the town of Wareham,
picturesque situation, are as pretty as any or rather it is the only one still used as a
thing on the island of Great Britain. An place of worship, there being two others,
excursion might also be made to New one used as a school and the other an
Forest, At Stony Cross the Canterton ivy-covered ruin. In St. Mary's Church
Oak stood till 1745; a stone now marks notice a curious leaden font of the 12th
the spot: it w\is from this oak that Sir century, adorned with figures of the apos-
Walter Tyrrell's arrow glanced which kill- tles also St. Edward's Chapel, which re-
;
ed William Rufus. Steamers leave South- produces the small wooden chapel in which
ampton several times a day for Cowes and the remains of Edward the MartjT were
Ryde in the Isle of Wight, also for Ports- placed after his murder at Corfe.
mouth. About half a mile from Wool Station li^
the ruins of Bindon Abbey, embowered in
The London, Brighton, and South Coast trees and surrounded by running streams.
Railway issue tourists' daily tickets during The buildings of this priory, which was
the summer season, also tourists' monthly founded in 1172 for Cistercian monks by
tickets to all parts of the Isle of Wight. Roger de Newburgh and Matilda, his wife,
Wimborne is an ancient town of 2275 in- have almost entirely disappeared, the foun-
habitants, deriving its name from the Min- dations alone remaining to mark the site
ster, a cruciform building, with a Norman of church and cloister.
tower at the intersection, and another of Moreton Station is the last passed before
later date at the end of the nave. This reachingZ>orc7«es<er, athrivingtown, as well
was first founded as a nunnery in the year as one of the cleanest and prettiest in the
700, by Cuthberga, sister of King Ina, but west of England. Population 682.3. Ho-
the nuns were replaced by secular canons tels, King's A rms and A ntelope. This town
in the time of Edward the Elder. A spire derives its prosperity from its position as a
formerly rose from the central tower, but railway centre, its rank as a county town,
this fell iu the year 1600, leaving only the and its situation in the midst of a dairy
base, which forms an open lantern of two and sheep -breeding country, more than
stories within. Before the altar is a regal 750,000 sheep being fed on the neighboring
efiigj^, which marks the tomb of Ethelred, downs. Dorchester was a British town of
King of the West Saxons, A.D. 873, re- importance before the invasion of Csesar,
stored in 1680. after which time it passed by the name of
Poole, the principal sea-port of Dorset- Durnovaria. It was one of the principal
shire, is next reached. Population 6815. stations of the Romans, who fortified it
Hotels, London and Antelope. For many with walls, and carried roads from it in
years the trade carried on by this town was different directions. The principal objects
principally with Newfoundland and the of interest are St. Peter's Church, the am-
Mediterranean but since the fall of Napo- phitheatre, and the camps of Maiden Cas-
;
leon I. this business has gradually become tle and Poundbury. The church is situ-
286
AV'ky.moutii, [ENGLAND.] Epsom.
ated in the centre of the town at the inter- town of Melcombe Regis, which stretches
section of four streets. It is built in the for about a mile along the shore. Its prin-
rcrpendicular style, and possesses a iino cipal feature is the Esplanade, from the ex-
tower. In the interior are some ancient tremity of which a handsome stone pier
and curious eftij^ies. The amphitheatre is runs out into the sea, forming the fashion-
an elliptical earthwork, formed by excavat- able promenade. On the Esplanade, at the
ing the chalk and heaping it up to a height divergence of the two main streets, stands
—
of thirty feet by some believed to be a a statue erected to the memory of George
Koman work of the time of Agricola, and III.
by others considered more to resemble a The principal buildings are St. Marj^'s
British " round," of wliich other specimens Church, containing an altar-piece repre-
still exist. It is 218 feet in length by IGO senting the Last Supper, by Sir .James
in width, the rampart being higher in the Thornhill; St. John's Radipole the Guild-
;
centre than at the ends. The area thus in- hall, with an Ionic portico; the Market-
cluded is capable of accommodating 12,900 house Literary and Scientific Institution
; ;
spectators, the proof of which has been shown and the Baths, a handsome edifice standing
in modern times, when in 170o ten thousand just below the statue of George III.
persons assembled here to witness the burn-
ing of the body of jSIary Channing after
her execution. The camp of Poundhury
stands on the summit of a hill lising near
the western gate of the town. Antiquaries
differ in relation to the intrenchment as
well as in regard to the amphitheatre,
some believing it to be a Danish work con-
structed during their siege of Dorchester
under Sweyn, while others proclaim it a
Roman work. The same uncertainty does
not exist in regard to Maiden Castle^ or
Maidun, the Hill of Strength. This is a
superb British earthwork, one of the largest ROUTE No. 107.
in existence, occupying the flat summit of London to Por.'smouth, via Sydenham
a natural hill which has been intrenched (Crystal Palace}, Epsom (Derby races),
and fortified by the labor of man. It is Horsham, and Ford (to the Isle of ^^'ight),
surrounded bj' two, and in some places by rail. Time, 2 hrs. 2n min. fare, 15s.
:
three ramparts, 60 feet in height, and meas- Leaving London by the Brighton and
ures 500 3'ards from north to south, and South Coast Railway' (London Bridge or
1000 j'ards from east to west. The whole Victoria Station), we pass Sydenham on
encampment covers al)out 115 acres, the our route, where a branch railway conveys
inner area being -IS. This interior area is passengers directly to the Crystal Palace
traversed through the centre by a low bank (see Route No. 72), the fare including the
and ditch there were four gates or en- price of admission. Sixteen miles from
;
trances defended by outworks. This mon- London we reach Epsom, principally fa-
strous fort was a stronghold of the Duro- mous for its races, which take place in
triges, and is probably also the Dunium April, September, and the week before
of Ptolemy. Whitsuntide. The railway station opens
Continuing our route we reach Wei/- on Epsom Downs, close to the grand stand.
moiifh, seven miles from Dorchester. Pop- During the races, if the weather is fine,
ulation 11,383. Hotels, Royal and Burdon. there are as many as 60,000 people assem-
Tliis town is a pleasant watering-place, sit- bled here. Epsoni is also celebrated for
uated on a bay formed like a letter E, the its mineral springs, producing the well-
central projecting part, called the Xothe. known Epsom salts. Continuing our route
dividing it into two parts, Weymouth Bay through most beautiful scenery, we reach
and Portland Koads. Old Weymouth lies Dorking, situated in a valley near the
to the north of this point, and is connected River Mole. Hotels, White Horse and Red
bv a bridge across the harbor with the new Lion. From the hills surrounding Dork-
287
Horsham. [ENGLAND.] Bradford-on-Avon.
icg some of the finest views in England Sands, which protect the Downs, take their
I
thrown up by the sea along the sea-shore, degraded to the use of a lock-up.
and hills approximating to mountains, such The town of Bradford derives its name
as the Downs of Sussex. The Goodwin from the broad ford over the Avon. Avhich
288
Fari.eigh Castle. [ENGLAND.] Fkome.
was used by all wheel-carriages up to a pay them, nor yet have had of my lord,
recent date, the bridge having been too these four years, save four groats." This
narrow to allow of their passage across. lady, however, outlived her lord, who was
A monastery was founded here in 705 by beheaded in 1540 for alleged treason, and
Aldhelni, Bishop of Sherborne, from which later found a second and, it is to be hoped,
time the town rose in importance until a kinder mate.
957, when the Witenagemote which ap- Trowbridge, the next station on our line,
pointed Dunstan Bishop of Worcester stands on a hill overlooking the River Biss,
was held here. In the 12th century a '
This building was held by the Hungerford bury Leigh, a place called Palace Garden
family for a space of 300 years. It was at is pointed out as the traditional residence
one time given to George, Duke of Clarence, of one of the Anglo-Saxon kings.
whose daughter Margaret, the last of the Frome is a thriving market-town of 11,-
Plantagenets, was born here. Here also 200 inhabitants, owing its origin to the
one of the Hungerfords (of the time of foundation of a monastery here by St. Aid-
Henry VIII.) imprisoned his third wife helm in 705. It is built on the sides of a
during four long years, A letter of this steep hill, and is rich in manufactures of
unfortunate prisoner, to be found in the various kinds, the most important being
" Collection of Letters of Royal and Illus- that of woolen cloth there are also manu-
;
priest, and brought me by my lord's foole. Closes, Elijah, St. John the Baptist, St. Pe-
So that I have been well-nigh starved, and ter, St. Paul, St. Chrysostom, and St. Am-
sometimes of a truth should die for lackc brose also the memorial window to Bishop
;
of sustenance had not poore women of the Ken. He was one of the seven bishops who
countrj', knowing my lord's demayne al- refused to read the Declaration of Indul-
ways to his wives, brought me to my great gence, for which act he was committed to
window in the night such meat and drink the Tower by James 11. in 1G8S. He was
as they had, and gave me for the love of (U-prived of his office in l(i8i» by William
God ; for monev have I none wherewith to in. for having refused to tako the oath of
Vol. I.— N 2 289
liltfTON [ENGLAND.] Weymouth.
allegiance. He was buried under the east- Castle-Carey, situated in the midst of a
ern wall of the chancel of this church, and most lovely country, is passed before reach-
his tomb is to be seen on the outside, pro- ing Yeovil. This is a thriving town, situ-
tected by an open-worked stone shrine it : ated on a hill-side rising above the banks
is formed of iron bars bent into the form of of the River Yeo, and containing 8-18G in-
a coffin, Avith a pastoral staff and mitre laid habitants, mostly engaged in the manu-
across it. facture of kid gloves.
Passing Witham Station, we reach Bru- Passing through Maiden Xewton, con-
fon,where a monastery was founded in very taining a church with some earlj'^ Norman
early times by Ethelmar, Earl of Cornwall work, we reach Dorchester. Population,
the site of this was later occupied by a pri- 6823. Hotels, King's Arms and Antelope
ory built by William de Mohun in 1142. (see Route No. 106).
This was granted at the Dissolution to Sir
Maurice Berkeley, standard-bearer of Hen- A short distance on is Weymouth, on the
ry Vlir., but was pulled down in 1786, af- Channel, and the starting-pohit of the Great
ter the extinction of the family. There is "Western Railway Co.'s steamers for Cher-
a free grammar-school, founded in 1520, bourg (the new route to the Continent) and
and a good hospital, dating from 1617. to the Channel Islands.
290
FRANCE.
Geckjraphy. [FRANCE.] Geography.
France is situated on the western side with the exception of some small mountain
of the European continent. It is bounded lakes in the higher valleys of the Pyrenees,
on the north by Germany, Belgium, and —
and Lake Geneva France possessing that
the English Channel on the east by Ger-
; portion which bounds Savoy on the north,
many, Switzerland, Italy, and part of the or nearly the whole of one side of the lake.
Mediterranean on the south by the Medi-
;
There is considerable difference between
terranean and Spain and on the west by
; the climate of Northern and Southern
the Atlantic. France, also in their products. In the north
It contains, since its two provinces were !
and northwest barley,wheat, rye, oats, ap-
ceded to Germany, 20G,474 square miles, or ples, pears, hemp, and flax are the princi-
about four and a half times as large as the pal products. In the centre, or that por-
—
State of New York nearly twice as large tion of the country which comprises the
as Great Britain and Ireland. (Its prov- basin of the Loire with the upper part of
inces of Oran, Algiers, and Constantine the valley of the Saone, the winter is of
contain •261,209 square miles.) shorter duration, the atmosphere less hu-
Its population, previous to the war, was mid, the weather generally more settled,
r8,192,064. Its present population is 37,- and the vine is the general crop; wheat,
072,048: it lost 1,597,228 by the cession of oats, rye, barley, and maize are also grown.
Alsace and Lorraine. In the southern region, which includes the
The position of France commands most valley of the Garonne, the Rhone, and Medi-
striking natural advantages. Its coasts terranean coast, the heat is much greater,
are washed by the waters of the Atlantic and the Avinter of very short duration
and English Channel a distance of 590 —
maize here grows in everA' direction wheat
miles, and by the Mediterranean SCO. It not at all and barley, oats, ai>d rye only
;
is protected on the east by the Vosges, the on the higher grounds the vine, olive, and
;
The Canal du. Centre connects the Loire, while in the higher regions the pine and
which also empties into the Bay of Biscay, fir tree reign supreme.
with the Saone, which, uniting with the The mineral productions of France are ex-
Rhone, empties into the Mediterranean. tensive, especially iron it occurs in abun-
:
The Canal de Bonrrjogne unites the wa- dance along the chains of the Vosges. Ce-
ters of the Saune with those of the Yonne, vennes, and Jura, also in the peninsula of
thereby connecting the basins of the Rhone Brittany and the basins of the Garonne and
and Seine while the Canal du Rhone uu
;
Loire silver, lead, and copper mines are
;
Rhin effects a union between these rivers worked to but a limited extent. Rock-salt
by means of the River Doubs. is obtained in large quantities at the south-
France has no lalces of any importance, ern extremity of the mountain range of the
291
Productions. [FRANCE.] Sovereigns.
Clodion 4"27
—many of them had at one time been in- Meroveus 44S
dependent states. It is now redivided into Childeric 1 45S
eighty-seven departments, named in most ClovisI 4S1
casesVrom the rivers by which they are in- On the death of Clovis, in 510, his kingdom was
divided among his four sons, viz., Thierry I.,
tersected, or from the mountain ranges by King of Metz Clodomir, King of Orleans ; Chil-
;
which they are bordered. The departments debert, King of Paris : and Clothaire, King of
are governed by a Prefect appointed by Soissons, who became sole king in 55S. Clothaire
dying in 560, the kingdom was divided: Thier-
the general government. The departments ry II. and Gontran reigned at Orleans ; Chari-
are subdivided into arrondissements, can- bert reigned in Paris; t^igebert, Childebert II.,
and communes.
tons, Theodebert II., at Metz; and Chilperic I. and
Soissons.
About three fifths ofthe whole population Clotliaire II. at ^ ^
of France is devoted to agriculture, full Clothaire II. became sole king. . C13
Cliaribert II. and Dagobert I G2S
one half of the land being arable. About Sigebert II. and Clovis II 638
ten per cent, is pasture-land, and four per Clothaire III 656
cent, devoted to the cultivation of the grape Childeric II 670
—which last is the most important and dis- Dagobert III
Thierry III
674
079
tinctive feature of French husbandr5\ Clovis III 691
The principal wine-growing departments Childebert III 695
Dagobert III 711
are those bordering on the Garonne, and
ClothaireIV 717
extending toward the shores of the Medi- Thierry IV 720
terranean and in the east, from whence Childeric III 742
come the Medoc or Bordeaux wines the ;
Pepin and Carloman 752
(,:harlemagne 76S
department of Ain, Cote d'Or, Saone et Louis I S14
Loire, and Yonne, or the ancient province Charles 1 840
of Burgundy, from whence come the Bur- LouisII 877
Louis III S79
gundy wines and the departments of Ar-
;
Charles II 8S4
dennes, Aube, Mame, and Haute Marne, or Eudes SS8
the ancient province of Champagne, from CharlesIII 898
whence comes the Champagne. The vint- PvobertI 922
LouisIV 936
age takes place during the months of Sep- Lothaire 954
tember and October. For the description Louis V • 986
ofthe preparation of wine, see Index under Hugh Capet 98T
Robertll 996
heads of Bordeaux, Epemay, and Macon.
Heniyl 1031
France ranks second to Great Britain Philipl 1060
only in the extent and value of her manu- Louis VT 1108
Louis VII 1137
facturing industry, but in the production
PhilipII 1180
of wine and silk she outranks all other coun- Louis VIII 1223
tries her productions of the latter are noted
; LonisIX 1226
for their elegance of design, richness of ma- Philip HI 1270
Philip IV 1285
terial, and brilliancy of color. The towns 1314
IvJuisX
in which the most extensive manufacture of Philip V 1316
silk is carried on are Lj'ons, Paris, Isimes, Charles IV 1322
The Philip VI 132S
Avignon, Tours, and St. Etienne. 1350
Jean
manufacture of woolens is next in impor- Charles V 1364
tance, and is most extensively carried on Charles VI 1380
Charles VII 1422
in Paris, Lyons, Louvers, Amiens, Rheims,
Louis XI 1401
and Abbeville. Linen, cotton, and lace Charles VIII 14S3
are mostly confined to Valenciennes, Lille, Louis XII 1498
Douay, Rouen, Cambray, Lyons, Paris, St. Francis 1 1515
Watches Henry II ir>47
Quentin, Orleans, and Angers. 1559
Francis II
and jewehy to Paris ;
leather to Paris, C;harles IX 1560
Blois, and Grenoble. Henrylll 1574
292
Currency. [FRANCE.] Routes.
elers generally call one franc twenty cents is also a territorial army of 582,523, and a
itcosts them that. Although the franc reserve territorial army of 625, 633 making —
and centime are the legal currency in all a total of 2,423,164. The navy consists
commercial transactions, the sou, which is of 154 vessels of different grades, and 78
about equal to one cent, is usual in ordi- reserve.
nary trade. Twenty of them are worth one The thermometers used in France are the
franc, and it will be well to note the differ- Centigrade and Reaumers, the freezing-
ence. You hear of centimes, but hardly point of both being 0° while the boiling-
;
ever see them. Five of this coin make one point of the former is 100", that of the
latter is 80^. To convert Centigrade into
The French have adopted a decimal sys- Fahrenheit, multiply the degrees by 9,
tem of weights and measures. We give and divide by 5, adding 32 to the result
those parts of it which are of special use to C. Kr=R. 8'=F. 18^ + 32^ =50\
travelers There are about 11,000 miles of railway
Weights. — The unit is fhe gramme, which in running order, and 27,000 miles of elec-
is the weight of the 100th part of a metre tric telegraph.
of distilled water at the temperature of Sixty-six pounds of baggage are allowed
melting ice. It is equal to 15.434 grains free on railways and as all baggage is
;
Cross, and Victoria Stations to Dover, Ca- Route 112 (page 390).— Pam to Havre,
lais, and Paris. From Victoria daily at 7.40 via Rouen and Yvetot.
A. M. (the mail), leaving Dover at 9.35, Ca-
lais at 12.11 P. M., and arriving in Paris at
5.41 P. M. The same train leaves Parisfor Route 113 (page 392).— Paris to Cher-
London at 7.40 A. M., Calais at 1.20 P. M., bourg, via Mantes, Evreux, Caen, and Ba-
Z>orer at 3.30 (Pullman palace-car to Victo- yeux, with excursions to Trouville, Hon-
ria Station, London), and arriving at Victo- fleur, St. L6, Granville, St. Malo, and Dinan.
ria Station, London, at 5.15 P.M. Fare,
first class, £3; return tickets available for
one month £4 15*. Time, 10 hours. Route 114 (page 397).— Pom to Brest,
Another special day-service leaves Victo- via Versailles, Chartres, Le Mans (rail to
ria for Paris at 9.55 A. M., and Parisfor Alen9on and Falaise), Laval, Rennes,
St*
1 o.idon at 9.40 A. M., arriving respectively
Brieuc, Guingamp, and Morlaix.
at 8 P. M. and 7.23 P. M.
This route via Dover and Calais has the
shortest sea-passage (80 min.), and the boats
EouTE llo (page 401). Paris to Bor-
cross in any weather.
deaux, via Orleans, Tours, and Poitiers.
be visited on the wa}' to Paris, through tion (Pau), Bayonne (Biarritz, St. Jean de
tickets,which onl}^ cost $7 50, giving the Luz), (Hendaye, Route 92, Vol. III).
traveler the right of stopping at either
Dieppe or Rouen. Trains leave daily from
Victoria Station and London Bridge. Bag-
Route 118 (page 419). Bordeaux to
Narbonne, via Agen, Montauban, Toulouse,
gage checked through to Paris, or vice versa,
Villefranche, and Carcassonne.
is only examined at Paris or London, and
—
that very lightlv cigars being the prin-
cipal article prohibited that travelers would Route 119 (page 423). Toulouse to Ba-
be likely to carry. Passports are asked yonne, via Montrejeau (Luchon), Tarbes
for on landing, but " Je suis Americain'" is (Bagueres-de-Bigorre), Pau, and Orthez.
sufficient, unless there is some political dif-
ficulty in the countrj^, when it is always
well to be in possession of a passport.
Route 120 (page 443). Paris to Orleans,
Agen, and Tarbes, via Chateauroux, Li-
ROUTES. moges, Perigueux, Lectoure, and Auch.
Route
124 (page 457). Paris to Nice,
via Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, Valence,
Route 134 (page 50o).— Brussels to
Antwerp, via Mechlin.
Avignon, Aries, Marseilles, and Toulon,
with branch line to Grenoble via Aix and
Gap. Route 135 (page hlo).— Brussels to Liege
and Verviers, via Namur.
Route 125 (page 476). Paris to Geneva,
via Macon, Bourg, and Amberieu. Or to Route 136 (page oil) .—Brussels to Lux-
TuHn, via Macon, Bourg, Amberieu, Aix- emhourg, via Namur and Arlon.
les-Bains, Chamber}', St. Jean de Mauri-
enne, and Modane.
Route 137 (page bl8).— Brussels to Os-
tend, via Ghent and Bruges.
Route 130 (page 493). Pai-is to Luxem- Route 143 (page 533).— JXe Ilague tc
bourg, via Epernay, Chalons, Verdun, Metz, Haarlem and Helder.
and Thionvillc.
Calais or Boulogne to Paris, via Amiens. line of travel between London and Paris, the
I
Calais. [The railway now runs close time required to go from one to the other of
'
to the steamboat landing; passengers are those two cities being now reduced to nine
then conveyed to the station hotel, where hours.
; Nearly a tenth of the population is
they have about forty-five minutes to dine.] English, and the English tongue is heard
Principal hotels, Dessin and Station. This on even*^ side.
:
It was the Roman Gessori-
strongly fortified town, being a fortress of acum. During the bathing season visitors
the second class, contains 13,500 inhabit- from England and difi'erent parts of France
ants. It is distant from Dover twenty-two are numerous. The port is the main object
miles. The harbor is approached by two of attraction to the residents some 300,000 —
Avooden piers three quarters of a mile long. people annually embarking and disembark-
Toward the outward rampart is a light- ing the harbor is artificial, and when the
;
house 190 feet high. The piers and ram- tide is out it is entireh' dry. On eacli
parts form an agreeable promenade. The side there are wooden piers, over one third
old town is surrounded by walls, with one of a mile long, which serve as a promenade
gateway toward the sea and one toward for visitors.
the land: that toward the sea side was The town is divided into two parts, the
built by Cardinal Richelieu in 1635. old town, or Haute Ville, and the new town,
Calais is now a manufacturing town, or Basse Ville, the latter containing all the
mth verv little to interest the traveler. best hotels and lodging-houses, the princi-
'296
Boulogne. [FRANCE.] BOULOGNE.
derneath are extensive and ancient crypts. was born on the 20th of September, 1786.
The Museum is situated in the Grand The town has lately gone to considerable
Rue, and '^ontains numerous objects of in- expense in awarding him posthumous hon-
terest, being cne of the best provincial ors, which culminated in the uncovering of
museums in France. Among a variety of a monument to his memory. The remains
ancient armor, arms, etc., may be seen a of Frederic Sauvage were removed from
model of Caligula's Tower, which formerly Paris and interred with public honors on the
stood on the heights above. There is a 20th of September, 1872. The monument
compartment devoted to natural history, over his grave is a square pediment in three
a picture-gallery, and public library. portions, made of gray marble, of the same
It was from Boulogne that Napoleon I. kind as the Napoleon Column is built, and
had planned to make his descent on En- obtained from the Marquise Quarries. It
gland, and so certain was he of invading rises to the height of fourteen feet, and on
that countr}- that a medal is shown in the the top a heroic-sized bronze bust of Fre-
Museum, bearing the date 1804, " Descente deric Sauvage is placed. On either side of
en Angletorre," •' Frappe h Londres." He the monument is an inscription setting
had concentrated at Boulogne 180,000 men forth the date of his birth, death (19th of
and 2100 transports, prepared to cross the July, 1857), the translation of his remains,
Channel. His intention was with the com- and a list of his inventions. On the front
bined fleets of France, Spain, and Holland are the two words, " Frederic Sauvage,"
to sweep the Channel of the English fleet, and a bronze bas-relief showing a vessel
and under cover of his own to land his men with a screw-propeller, a pantograph, a hor-
on the opposite shore. The war with Aus- izontal mill for sawing marble, and a souf-
297
Abbeville. [FEANCE.] Amiens.
a debtors' prison, which he afterward ex- ens," than for any other cause. The Salle
changed for a mad-house, where he die'd on :
is shown in the Hotel de Ville where Jo-
The monument was
the 19th of July, 1857. seph Bonaparte for France, Lord Comwal-
designed by M. de Bayser, town architect lis for England, Chevalier Azara for Spain,
cept the old church of St. Wolfram, com- was not completed until two centuries later.
menced in the reign of Louis XII., and I
The length of the building is 468 feet, and
never finished. There is an old Castle, I height of nave 140 feet. An eminent writ-
now used as a prison, a Public Library in er says of it that "the interior is one of the
the Hotel de Yille, and a Museum. The 1 most magnificent spectacles that architect-
ancient ramparts are now used as a public 1
ural skill can ever have produced the ;
promenade. I
mind is filled and elevated by its enormous
Crecij is distant 12 miles from Abbeville ;
height, its lofty and many-colored cleresto-
it is noted for its famous battle, fought the r}'^, its grand proportions,
its noble simplic-
Rue des Rabuessons ; it is built on the site the finest in France, still exist. They are
of the old arsenal, and contains a fine col- located immediately in front of the race-
lection of pictures, a gallery of religious course stands.
monuments, a collection of Celtic antiqui- The Due de Bourbon, Prince de Conde,
ties, and Roman pottery. the last possessor of both titles, was discov-
The Public Library, which contains some ered hung by his cravat to a window-bolt in
60,000 volumes, and a collection of MSS., i
his bedroom in Paris in 1830 he was sev-
;
is situated immediately opposite the Mu- enty-fouryearsof age. It was supposed that
seum. he was murdered. He left by will all his
The Citadel is the onh^ remaining por- property to the Due d'Aumale, second son
tion of the old fortifications ; it is still a of Louis Philippe Chantilly and its magnif-
:
place of considerable strength, its ramparts icent forest, containing nearly seven thou-
are now the principal promenade of the cit- sand acres the Palais Bourbon, or Palace
;
izens. In addition there is a splendid prom- of the Legislative Bod}',and other proper-
enade west of the city called the Promenade ty of immense value. The confiscation
de la Hutoie. Amiens is the birthplace of law of 1853 being passed, all the prop-
Peter the Hermit, preacher of the Crusades erty belonging to the Orleanists was sold,
— there is a bronze statue erected to his and Chantilly was bought by two mem-
memory on Place St. Michael. bers of the banking -firm of Coutts &
Clermont-sur-Oise contains a population Co., of London. It was supposed at the
of 6000. Hotel, Croissant. This place was time the purchase was made on account
formerly a very important fortress its cas-; of the Due d'Aumale, which proved to
tle is now a female penitentiary here the
: be true, as he is now in possession. The
great Condc retired from court, and de- French National Assembly, since the fall
fended the castle against the king. of the empire, repealed the law confis-
CreilJunction, where numerous lines of cating the property of the house of Or-
railway meet that for Paris by Chantil-
: leans.
ly, also by Pontoise ;to Cologne, via Com- Chantilly races take place under the
piegne a branch line to Beauvais one to
; ; patronage of the Paris Jockey Club in
St. Quentin and Brussels. The town con- May, September, and October; and here
tains 4600 inhabitants. On an island in the the French Derby is run, the winner of
river are the remains of the old castle in which is generally sent to England the
which Charles VI. was confined during his same month (May) to contend for the
madness. English Derby, and then back for the
Six miles fro)n Creil is Chantilly, noted Grand Prix, which fcikes place a week
for its manufacture of silk lace the town
; later at Longchamps (Bois de Boulogne).
contains 3400 inhabitants. Hotels, Grand There is a large colony of English grooms
Cerf and De la Pelouse. This is one of the and jockeys maintained at Chantilly for
loveliest spots in the vicinity of Paris; it training purposes. The Due d'Aumale
owes its creation to the great Conde, who gave the Prince of Wales a magnificent
here spent the remaining years of his life. entertainment here in the autumn of
It was here he gave that magnificent entcM- 1874.
tainmentto the king, his cousin, made mem- Chantilly is twenty -five miles from
orable by the event of Vatel, the cele- Paris, and during the races trains run
brated cook, running himself through with every ten minutes to and from the capital.
his sword because the fish did not arrive These races only take place on Sundays.
in time for dinner. The king, who had a Travelers who have no conscientious scru-
claim to the estiite, intimated to Conde that ples on the subject should take an early
he would like to obtain possession. Conde train, say nine or ten o'clock, thereby
replied that the king was master, but ask- avoiding the rush, and breakfast in the
ed as a favor to be retained as con- town or at the pavilions, where a good
cierge. breakfast can be obtained.
The grandson of the great Conde built a St. Denis, see Route 112.
magnificent chateau here, which was de- The description of the route from Lon-
stroyed by the mob during the first rev- don to Paris, ria Folkestone and Boulogne, is
olution. The stables, however, which are i
naturallv included in the route just de-
299
Dieppe. [FRANCE.] DiEPPK
scribed, asBoulogne is reached from Ca- 1
The 03'ster-beds were formerly very ex-
lais inone hour. The Tidal train is pref- tensive. The streets are regularly built,
erable, if the hour answer, being both ,
and there are few specimens of antiquity
cheaper and quicker than via Calais and remaining, as the town was completely
Dover. destroyed b}' the English in 169i. The
principal object of attractionis the Church
This route can be made the most inter- pursued by her implacable enemy, Anne
esting of all the routes to Paris. The sea- of Austria, and was compelled to fly by
passage is longer, but an excursion can be '
its inhabitants were noted both for their description card -rooms and a club for
;
braverv in war and their skill in commerce. members of the best Paris and London
300
LOSGDEVILLE. [FRANCE.] Pabis.
finding any thing to eat in your trunks, world. Leading from its beautiful "Court
pass them. As wines and provisions of all of Honor" are reading-rooms, cafes, bill-
kinds pay a duty entering Paris from the iard - saloon, reception - rooms, telegraph
country, all baggage must be examined on offices, etc. Entirely remodeled and re-
entciing the barriers. The persons em- organized b}' the new management, travel-
ployed in this duty are called ocfroyens, ers w^ill find in it the best cuisine and
and number about 1000. There is a tax the best wines in Paris. The company
on wine, vinegar, brandy, spirits, beer, oil, have established at 12 Boulevard des
charcoal, butchers' meat, ham, sausages, Capucines, under the hotel, a first-class
straw, and hay. If you refuse to declare wine-business, where the wines of the best
any of the above, you are liable to a fine growth are sold from a bottle upwards at
equal to the value of the articles. If there wholesale prices..
joins the new Opera-house, is in close prox- colonnade of the Louvre, and constituting
imity to the leading theatres and principal the promenade and rendezvous for the
railway stations, and the very centre of the guests of the house and their friends this ;
life and gayety of modern Paris. This is glassed in in winter and heated. Three
magnificent structure is entirely isolated flights of steps lead from the court on the
;
from all other buildings, covers an extent right, one to the oflSces and reception-
of 9000 square yards, and has a frontage rooms in the centre, another to the salon
;
on the boulevards of 390 feet its diff"erent de conversation ; and the third, on the left,
;
facades contain 444 windows, in addition to to the cafe and other halls. These last all
those in the court-yards, ground-floor, and face on the Rue de Rivoli the ca/e, deco-
;
entresol; the rooms and drawing-rooms rated in the style of Henry 1 1., is a marvel of
number 700, nearly half of which are fur- dazzling richness ; the restaurant, adjoin-
nished in the most luxurious style. Its ing, presents a contrast by the severity dis-
dining-room is the most magnificent in the played in its luxury; the sallr-a-manf;cr,
302
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
of grand dimensions, with its lookout over fixjm the Boulevards, Champs Elysees and
the Tnileries Gardens, has its equal in but Tuileries (lift, etc.).
few palaces the magnificent salon de con-
;
three divisions the marvels of the Alham- specially constructed as a hotel, it contains
bra. From this the salle des fetes is enter- every modern convenience (lift, etc.), and
ed, another magnificent hall in the Louis is admirably conducted under the personal
XIV. style, with its sixteen red marble supervision of the proprietor, Mr. Hauser,
columns supporting the ceiling, its frescoes for many years most favorably known to
by Laugce, and other splendors too numer- Americans.
ous to attempt to recall. Adjoining this Hotel Bind I, an elegant, first-class house
is an enticing supper-room. Leaving the on the Avenue de I'Opera, with entrance
gallery preceding the sal'e desfete.^ on the on the Rue de I'l^chelle, No. 11, with large
ground-tloor, the cour des fetes is reached, and small apartments, reading, smoking,
a court of marvellous architecture, giving and bath rooms, lift, and every modern
exit through two doors to the Rue Rouget comfort. American breakfasts and other
de rile. From this court the principal national specialties receive particular at-
staircase, the escalier d^honneur^ leads to tention. The hotel is under the personal
the festal and banqueting halls of the first supervision of the proprietor, iNIr. Binda,
floor. favorably known for many years to Amer-
The Continental contains 600 bedrooms icans in connection with Delmonico's of
and salons, from 4 frs. to 25 frs. per day New York.
contains numerous public rooms not men- Hotel Windsor, 226 Rue de Rivoli, is a
tioned, reading, smoking, music, and bill- first-class and old-established house, oppo-
iard rooms, a winter-garden, etc. There is site the Tuileries Garden?;, in the healthiest
a table d'hote at 6 o'clock, with admission part of Paris. There is a table d'hote, lift,
till G.30, at 7 frs., wine included ; a sepa- English and American papers, telephone,
rate dining-room for orders a la carte; etc. ; managed by the proprietor, Mr.
bath - rooms and hydropathy ;
post and Sprengel.
telegraph offices, etc., etc. The establish- No. 2 Rue Scribe is the office of the A mer-
ment is under the management of a man ican Register, a weekly journal. The R( g~
most thoroughly qualified for the position, ister is exceedingly useful to travelers in
assisted by a staff of most efficient aids. finding out the whereabouts of their friends,
Grand Hotel de VA thenee is very centrally as it publishes a weekly report of the arri-
situated near the new Opera-house, in the vals of Americans in Paris and London.
centre of the American colony. It is ad- Harper's Hand-books and Harpei-'s Phrase-
mirably managed, good cuisine, and prices book are both for sale at the Register office.
moderate. It is much patronized by Amer-
icans, who speak of it most highly. It has
also the advantage of an elevator.
The Hotel Chatham stands conspicuous
as having one of the best cuisines in Paris ;
ened staj- in Paris, and "who, from motives the week. Every thing is included in a
either of privacy or economy, prefer lodg- furnished apartment with the exception
ings, -will find an abundance of " Maisons of plate, linen, and knives : these articles
MeubUes," from the most luxurious and can be hired without trouble from persons
costly down to the humblest and cheapest \
making it their special business. Unfur-
kind, containing suites of apartments for nished apartments are generally let on a
families. Avith kitchen and every thing lease of three, six, or nine years, optional
complete. Also in the same house single to both parties. Xotice to quit should in
bedrooms for gentlemen or ladies, at from all cases be written, and, where not pre-
i
two to five francs a night. Apartments sented by a huissier. its acceptance by the
\
may be hired by the year, month, week, landlord should also be in writing. "When
or night but always be particular that it is not interdicted in the lease, the right
;
spects, is vers' unsatisfactory between land- is always a choice of these to be had, owing
lord and tenant, and is mostly in favor of to the departure of families, and for which,
the former. "We Avould impress upon our and for all matters concerning hou?e-
readers in all cases in which they engage agency, we strongly recommend travelers
apartments to have every thing in writ- to Messrs. Eoch-Sautier & Co., 10 Rue Cas-
ing. The ordinary means of advertising tiglione, bankers, house and estate agents,
apartments to be let consist of a yellow and agents to the British and American
board to indicate that they are furnished, embassies. This firm, established forty
and a white one to indicate that they are years, give gratuitously every information
unfurnished. The prices demanded are and advice, and can provide parties with
most elastic, and are in many instances every accommodation in the shape of apart-
ruled by the appearance of the appli- 'ments.
cant and its effect upon the conscience (?) The house of ^Messrs. Roch-Sautier & Co.
of the concierge or proprietor. Many of deals also in wines of every description
the concierges are most mercenary, and, and of the best quality.
although it is the custom to pay them from
ten to thirty francs a month, and in some
30"l
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
are to ha found in every quarter of the carriages in Paris. Fare, by the drive or
city, and generally decorated with much course, 1 f. 50 c.; by the hour, 2 f. Thoso
taste and splendor. Those most brilliant- with four places, 1 f. 80 c. per course, and
ly ornamented are situated on the Boule- 2 f. 50 c. per hour, with small ^'pour boire.'"
vard Poissonniere, Boulevard des Italiens, Oil side the fortifications half a franc per
Boulevard Montmartre, Boulevard des hour is added to the above. If bagj^age
(.'apucines, and Boulevard de la Madeleine. is carried, four sous each for trunks or
When lighted up at night, it is diffi- large packages. After the first hour, you
cult to describe any thing so perfectly en- are charged for the quarters of hours you
chanting. Here it is that the Frenchman j
have the carriage in use, and not, as with
is seen in all his glory, seated near a small i
us, for the full hour. On entering the car-
table in front of the cafe, enjoying his cof- 1
riage, the driver will hand }ou a card con-
fee, his " petit- verre," his sugar and wa- taining his number and the different fares,
ter,or his absinthe. Nothing can be more and pay accordingly. You had also better
delightful than witnessing this splendid inform him whether you wish to take the
voiture by the drive or by the hour
''
scene. Every seat occupied outside and : Ct»-
Exposition, 1878, for the highest excellence. wards are given to encourage honesty in
restoring articles found in their carriages.
I
Carriages, Cabriolets, Ilachney- coaches, Nearly every article left in public car-
—
and Omnibuses. There are three different riages may be found next day at the Pre-
!
styles of carriage for hire in Paris first,:fecture. There are over 7000 of these
I
the very elegant glass coach, or voitu7-e de different carriages circulating through the
remise, which may be hired by the day, streets night and day. Tramways are now-
month, or year, with coachman and foot- organized on nearly all the great thor-
man, or coachman alone. The price for oughfares. The Omnibus Company of Paris
Vol. I.— O 305
Pabis. [FRANCE.] FARia
is generally considered one of the best or- and in the course of 500 j'ears of the Ro-
ganized companies in existence it has the
;
man dominion Lutetia rose to be a place
monopoly of all the lines, and pays the city of considerable importance, and became
about 6150,000 for the rent of the various the capital of N. Gaul. In the beginning
stations. They run to all parts of the city ;
of the 5th century it suffered much from
fare^ 6 sous inside, and 3 sous outside. If the northern hordes, and ultimately fell
you wish to diverge to the right or left, into the hands of the Franks under Clovis.
the conductor gives you an exchange tick- who, having embraced Christianity, made
et, called correspondence^ gratis. it Under his de-
his residence in 508.
became the capital, first, of a
scendants it
ization ; and if such an eminence can be Paris has continued to be the residence of
gained by mere external polish, they per- the kings of France.
i
haps deserve it. In matters of dress and In the latter part of the l'2th century
j
fashion, the lead is conceded to them by a Philip Augustus mounted the throne, and
|
kind of unanimous consent; and though built the Castle of the Louvre, and several
I
their manners have suffered considerably churches paved the streets, and inclosed
;
by the stormy periods through which thej"- a large part of the buildings with walls
have passed, their native politeness has flanked with towers. The various schools
not been lost. None succeed better in which had existed separately became united
practicing the agreeable arts of life. under the common name of university,
No city in the world has ever witnessed which now began to occupy a prominent
such magnificent improvements as Paris place among the literary establishments
under the late —
Empire splendid streets and of Europe. Under Charles V. new walls
boulevards from one end to the other, thor- and ditches were erected, with the view
oughly lighted, drained, and paved. Pop- more especially of guarding against the
ulation in 1877, 1,988,806 ; circumference, inroads of the English, who made frequent
nearly 22 miles. Its expenditures and re- incursions into the faubourgs. The forti-
ceipts amount to nearly $50,000,000. fications failed to produce the desired ef-
The origin of Paris is involved in ob- fect ; for in 1420, under the reign of Charles
scurity; but the account to which most YI., the English made themselves masters
credit appears to be given is, that a wan- of the city, and were not dislodged from
dering tribe, having settled on the banks of it for sixteen years. In 1437 and 1438^
the Seine, the He de la Cite, to which they under Charles TIL, it was ravaged by
retired with their flocks and herds when pestilence and famine, and such was the
any of the neighboring tribes made incur- desolation that wolv^es appeared in herds
sions which they were otherwise unable and prowled along the streets. Under
to resist, gave to this natural stronghold Louis XI. a course of prosperity- again
the name of Lutetia, meaning "Dwell- commenced. The area of the cit\' extend-
ing of the Waters," while they them- ed over 1414 acres, and its population
selves, for some reason not well known, amounted
to 300,000 souls.
took the name of Parisii. When Julius In 1470 the first printing-presses were
CjBsar conquered Gaul, he accordingly here introduced, and the Post-office was estab-
lished. Francis I. demolished the old Cas-
found a tribe of Parisii, with a capital call-
ed Lutetia, connected with the shore by tle of the Louvre, and commenced a new
two bridges. They defended themselves palace on its site, rebuilt several churches,
bravely, but were overcome; and Caesar, opened better communication between the
after rebuilding the town, which had near- different districts, and made so many im-
ly been destroyed, surrounded it with provements, that the whole city assumed
walls, and farther defended it by erecting a different aspect. But the Reformation
two forts at the extremity of the bridges. having commenced, and counted numer-
The Gallic were exchanged for Roman di- ous converts in all parts of the kingdom,
vinities; civilization made rapid progress ; bigotry and intolerance in alarm began to
30G
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
do their work, and the fires of persecution ; men, women, and children have been
were lighted uj). P. iris, in consequence, . gacred in cold blood, while others perished
became the theatre of ,..„„„ bloody ,1..^.
many 1.1....1,. deed jj^ j.,^^,jj. ^j^j^jjij^
dwellings.
crowned at length, in 1572, during the reign j
The discontent caused among the popu-
of Charles IX., by the horrible massacre lace by the surrender of Paris to the Prus-
of St. Bartholomew, During these trans- sian foe had enabled a body of cruel and
actions the city could nut prosper ; and, amijitious men to seize the reins of govern-
though some new edifices were commenced, ment, and to commit, in the name of Lib-
among others the palace of the Tuileries, erty and Fraternity, every species of dep-
it was not until the wars of religion ceased, redation and cruelty.
at least, to be carried on openly, that the While this power reigaed supreme in
work of embellishment in good earnest Paris, life and libert}- were hourly in dan-
again commenced. The Hotel de Ville ger, and the population, exhausted b}- the
was begun, the Pont Neuf finished, great miseries and privations of the preceding
additions made to the Tuileries, and many months, submitted anatheticallv to everj'
new streets and quays built. The works 'outrage, too callous of results to rise and
begun were completed, and many others shake ,
oflfthe yoke which oppressed them
mdertakcn, during the reigns of Loui
XIII. and XIV., the latter of whom, not- Wegive a short account of the events
withstanding his ^''^'^'' occurred before and during the siege
Versailles, u ^li'^%!?!n
was able that J!
to rival all ^ll".? his of Paris by the Prussians, of the insurrec-
predecessors had done for the embellish- tion of the 18th of March, of the rise of the
ment of Paris. Louis XV. had contributed Commune, and the investment of the city
liis share of improvements, and Louis XVI. by the Versailles government, followed by-
was proceeding in a better spirit in the ^
ifg assault and capture
same course, when the Revolution com- The war declared by France against
menced, and with it the work of demoli- Prussia in .July, 1870, was the beginning
tion, which was carried on to such an ex- of the series of disasters. The long-sup-
tent that some of the finest edifices in the pressed hatred of the two nations needed
city were converted into ruins, and many but a slight pretext to cause it to burst
of the most venerable monuments of art forth with great violence. This pretext
completely destroyed. A stop was put to was afforded by the candidature of the
this barbarism, first, by the Directory, andPrince Leopold of Hohenzollern to the
ifterward by Bonaparte, by whom, in par- throne of Spain. This candidature, sup-
ticular, many works, distinguished alike ported by the King of Prussia as "'head
of
by utility and splendor, were undertaken, the family, not as sovereiffn,'" was objected
and completed. to by France, and thus was kindled tho
!
l)Oth in splendor and general prosperity n Berlin. From this moment began the
Since then it has been her lot more than misfortunes of France. The slight victo-
ever to see bloody battles waged, and hear rious skirmish of SaacijrUck
(August 1st)
the thunder of artillery roaring in her was followed by
the terribledefeats of Wis-
f-treets. semburg (August 4th), Worth (August
—
Twice has she been besieged once by a Gth), Mars-la-Tour (August
16th\ Grave-
foreign foe, and once her own countrymen lotte (August 18th),
and the crowning dis-
rose in arras against her. Her streets have aster of Sedan
(September 1st). From this
been the scene of one of the most frightful moment nothing interrupted
| the Prus.=.„„
and bloody revolutions which it has ever march on Paris, and on
the 19th of Sep-
been the lot of man to witness. Her altars tembcr the citv was
|
completelv invested,
have been violated, her palaces destroyed, and from that time, during the
|
spjcc of
r.07
Paris. [FRANCE.] PARia
Pecq, Bongival, Choisy- le-Eoi, L'Hay, the Commune, a levy en masse of the whole
j
Chevilly, Cachan, and Dugny, and their nation, that a chassepot shall be given to
'
advanced guards appear at St. Cloud. every citizen, and that an appeal shall be
September 22(7. Demonstrations of admi- made to all the revolutionists of Europe,
'
ration before the statue of the city of Stras- and particularly to Garil)aldi.
'
The gov-
bourg on the Place de la Concorde also emment not seeing fit to accede to all
; I
before the Hotel de Ville,to protest against these demands, M. Flourens resigned his
!
September 25d. Report of M.Jules Favre five battalions at whose head he was
1
of the Prussians conditions of peace, the Minister of the Interior, for Tours, in the
;
'
cession of Alsace, with Strasbourg and part Armand-Barbes balloon ascension of an- ;
of Lorraine, with !Metz, to Prussia. Slight other balloon, containing two Americans
'
advantage gained over the Prussians at Vil- and a Frenchman. Proclamation from
lejuif by Vinoy's troops. Prussian battery General Tamisier, commander of the Na-
erected at St. Cloud. tional Guards, forbidding all armed dem-
'
September 2-ith. The French government onstrations before the Hotel de Ville, with
issue a proclamation announcing their in- severe penalties. M. Flourens Avithdraws
tention to fight to the end. his resignation.
September 2btli. The members of the dip- October Sth. Demonstration of one thou-
lomatic body remaining in Paris demand sand armed National Guards before the
permission from the French Minister of Hotel de Ville, again headed by Gustave
Foreign Affairs to send dispatches through Flourens. They demand the immediate
the belligerent lines, and send the same establishment of the Commune de Paris,
demand by courier to Count Bismarck. but. being opposed by another battalion of
September 27th. Review of the Prussian the Guards, they retire discomfited. M.
troops by the king at Versailles. Favre addressed the crowd, and was lond-
September' oOth. Combat at Chevilly, ly applauded also Generals Trochu and
;
L'Hay, and Thiais for the purpose of blow- Tamisier, who appeared Avith their staffs.
ing up the bridge of Choisy-le-Roi. which Arrival of a pigeon announcing the safe
was not successful. descent of M. Gambetta near Amiens.
Octoler Ixt. News received of the sur- October 9th. Manifestation of National
render of Toul and Strasbourg, producing Guards before the Hotel de Ville to thank
303
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
the government for its firmness on the pre- October 2Bd. Allowance of meat reduced
ceding day. First line of circumvallation to fifty grammes (one tenth of a f>oundj for
completed hy the Prussians, and second each person per day.
commenced. October 2-ith. Capture of Chiiteaudun by
Octohi-r 10th. Firing from Mont Valerlen the Prussians, after an obstinate conflict
on the Prussian worlds at St. Cloud and often hours.
Sevres. Distribution of cards to the fam- October 2bth. Departure of a number of
ilies of Paris specifying the quantity of Americans from Paris b}^ permission of the
meat to which each person is entitled, to French government, and with safe -con-
he obtjxined once in three days. ducts from Count Bismarck. Mr, AVash-
October lltk. Unsuccessful attempt of burne, the American minister, with his
the Prussians to seize the redoubt of La Secretary of Legation, Colonel Hoffman,
Faisanderie, in front of Fort Vincennes. and General Reade, Consul-general of the
Oclbber V2lh. Arrival of Colonel Lindsay United States, still remain.
from England with 500,000 fr. for French October 2Sth. Bourget taken from the
fund in aid of the wounded. Horseflesh Prussians by a party of Mobiles and reg-
eaten very generally fowls and vegeta-
; ular troops,
bles sold at very high prices. October llQth. Recapture of Bourget by
October l^th. Reconnoissance in the di- the Prussians, who take prisoners about
rection of Chatillon and Clamart. These 600 Mobiles and Francs-tireurs. Arrival
two villages, with Bagneux, were taken of M. Thiers in Paris on a safe-conduct
by the Mobiles after four hours' fighting, from the King of Prussia. Official news
who afterward retired in good order. De- received of the fall of Mctz.
struction of the Palace of St. Cloud by a October 31st. Great excitement caused
shell from IMont Valorien. in Paris by the fall of Metz and the nego-
October 14/A. Anniversary of the battle an armistice conducted b}' M.
tiations for
of Jena. Armistice demanded by the Prus- Thiers. The Hotel de Yille invaded by
sians, and accorded, for the burial of their the mob with cries of "Pas d'armistice !"
dead. Flourens arrives, places himself at the head
October loth. News of the arrival of of the mob, and proposes the election of a
Garibaldi at Tours, and of the appoint- Committee of Public Safety. The mem-
ment of M. Gambetta to the Ministrv of bers of the government are deposed by
him, and kept in custody in the building.
October IHh. Count Bismarck's reply to The 106th battalion of Natiimal Guards
M.Jules Favre's account of the interview enter the Hotel de Yille and succeed in
at Ferrieres published in the Joui'nal Offi- rescuing General Trochu, who afterward
ciel, together with a rejoinder from M. returns with a large body of troops and
Favre, Letter from General Ducrot de- liberates the imprisoned ministers, when
nying having broken his parole, as alleged Flourens and Blanqui retire.
in London papers he had delivered him-
; Xorernber 1st. The government calls on
self at Pont-a-^rou>son as he had agreed the citizens to vote on this question: Does
to do, and only effected his escape after the population of Paris maintain, yes or
having constituted himself prisoner. no, the poAvers confided to the Government
October 20th. Night attack made by the of the National Defense ?Resignation of
Prussians on the French works in front of if. Rochefort as member
of government.
Montrouge, Bicetre, and Ivry, which was XovemherZd. The vote of confidence de-
beaten off. Cannonade from Charenton manded by the government gives 558,190
and Valerien. for, and 62,638 against it, including the
October 21st. Sortie made b}' the French vote of the army.
under General Ducrot, numbering about Xorcmbcr Qth. Announcement from the
GSaO men, in the direction of Malmaison government of the failure of tlie negotia-
and Rueil. The fighting lasted from 1 tions for an armistice. Count Bismarck ol)-
P.M. until dark, causing severe loss to the jecting to the revictualing of Paris.
enemy. The French at one time held the Korember Sth. Departure of 160 foreign-
redoul)t of 3!ontretout, but were obliged to ers from Paris — Americans, English, and
abandon it. other nationalities,
30D
Pari?. [FRANCE.] Paris,
November 11th. Rats offered for sale on December 1st. The sevent}'- fourth day
the Place de I'Hotel de Yille for 7 and 8 of the siege, occupied by both armies in
cents apiece, carrying off the wounded and burying the
Xovember lAth. News of the recover)' dead. Dispatches of the 20th received
of Orleans b}' the French under General from Amiens declaring that General Bour-
d'Aurelle de Paladines. baki, with 40,000 troops,was ready to act
November IStk. Establishment of a rail- in concert with the army of Paris.
way round Paris by the Prussians, by j
December 2d. The French troops were
which their troops may be rapidly concen- attacked at daybreak by the Germans un-
trated on any point. der the Prince of Saxony, and sustained
Novemberldth. Provisions becoming ex- their positions during three hours' tight-
orbitant in price. ing, after which the French began to gain
November -lOth. Arrival of Count Bis- ground, and, after a conflict of five more
marck's circular to the diplomatic agents hours, drove them back to the adjoining
of the North German Confederation con- j
woods.
cerning the nei^otiations for an armistice. j December 3d. Letter in the Journal Offi'
November 21st. Circular of M. Jules Fa- del from Monseigneur Bauer, chaplain of
vre to the diplomatic agents of France, in I
the Ambulance of the Press, stating that,
answer to Count Bismarck. the preceding evening, near Champigny,
November 2dth. Grand sortie made by the having advanced toward the Prussian posts
French. Operations began on the evening to take up the wounded, the visual four calls
of the 28th by a violent cannonade from to cease firing were sounded and obtained
the French works on the northwest of complete silence he then went forward,
;
Paris. At daylight L'Hay and Gare-aus- and was immediately greeted by a sharp
Boeufs were attacked and carried by Gen- fusilade. This letter was signed by thir-
eral Yinoy's troops, who retained posses- teen persons who accompanied the writer.
sion for several hours, when they were or- ^Vithdrawal of the troops lately engaged
dered to fall back, a sudden flood in the against the Prussians from their position
Marne having prevented another part of on the heights they recross the Marne
;
the operations from being carried out. In and bivouac on the Bois de Yincennes.
concart with this attack. Generals Trochu Prices of different articles of food rising
and Ducrot had advanced to cross the riv- continually Butter, 85 per pound a rab-
: ;
er and engage the Prussian redoubts on bit, $7; fowl, $6 a turkey, $18 a pigeon,
; ;
oflF in all the cafes, restaurants, and private nals of a manifesto from the Count de
I
310
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris
nounced the occupation of that town by els sold to a butcher for $800.
tlic Germans and their march on Cher- December 21st. Note in the official jour-
bourg that the people received them with
; j
nal announcing an attack made by Gen-
acclamations that Bourges and Tours
; eral Trochu on the preceding evening on
were menaced, and that the Arm}' of the the enemy's positions at Bourget, Neuilh-
Loire was defeated. The other dispatch sur-Mame, Yillc Evrard, and La Maison
contained about the same news. The pig- Blanche the loss was heavy.
;
eons were discovered, however, to have December 2Bd. The dreadful weather
been part of a number which had been greatly impeded the military operations
sent from Paris but a short time before in the ground being frozen to the depth of a
11 balloon, found, later, to have been cap- foot and a half, prevented the French from
tured b\' the Prussians the birds were
; intrenching themselves in their positions.
but little fatigued, a suspicious circum- A gallant reconnoissance made in the
stance, as the weather was dreadfully cold; Avood of Clamart by the Mobiles of the
and, lastly, one of the dispatches was signed Seine.
by the name of a person at that time in December 2bth. The cold intense ; sev-
Paris, and acting as one of the secretaries eral Mobiles are frozen to death.
of the government. The birds being thus December 26th. Night attack of the Na-
proved to have been sent b}^ the Prussians, tionalGuard on the Prussians at Maison
little faith was put in the dispatches they Blanche, in which the wall of the park,
brought. which protected the enemy, is leveled to
December llth. Arrival in Paris of four the ground.
French officers, exchanged for four Prus- December 27th. In the morning the Prus-
sians of equal ranlc; these officers, cap- sians began the bombardment of the forts
tured before Orleans, gave a good account of Paris. They have twelve batteries
of the Army of tlie Loire. Requisition by three at Raincy, three at Gagny, three at
the government of all the coals and coke Noisy, and three at the bridge of Gournay.
in Paris and the neighboring communes. Tlie tiring continued the whole day on the
December Ibth. Notice from the govern- forts at the east of Paris, from Noisy to
ment that after the present supply of flour Nogent, and on the plateau of Avron.
has been consumed, nothing but the second Loss of the French, 8 killed and 150 wound
quality of bread will be made. ed.
December IGih. Arrival of pigeon dis- December 2Sfh. Bombardment contin-
patches from Tours, dated the 5th and ued. Several thousand shells and bombs
11th, announcing the defeat and retreat thrown on Forts Rosny, Noisy, Nogent,
of the Army of the Loire, and its division and Avron, and replied to by the batteries
into two parts under Generals Chanzv and of Bondy.
iJourbaki the removal of the government
; December 20ih. The plateau of Avron
to Bordeaux, and the occupation of Amiens evacuated by the French, owing to the
*.Tid Rouen by the Prussians. heavy artillery brought to bear upon it by
December l~th. Prices at the Central the Prussians. The latter establish earth-
IMarket Fillet of horse, 83 20 per pound
: works at St. Germain, where they blow up
dog, GO cts. per pound cats, $1 20 apiece
;
;
the railway bridge.
butter, 87 per pound; a turkey, 820; a December 30th. Continuation of the at-
rabbit, 86 to $7 vegetables very scarce
; tack on the forts, directed principally
a head of celery, 50 cts. cabbage, per head,
; against Nogent and Rosny.
8L December olst. The Prussians liaving
December lS(h. Arrival in Paris of M. pushed forward their batteries, vast num-
Richard, sent by Steenackers from Tours, bers of shells fall around Groslay, Bondy,
October 18th going to Rouen, and thence
;
and Noisy-le-Sec. The government dis-
to Versailles, he was obliged to live among tribute, for New-v ear's Dav, in tlie twen-
311
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris
of preserv-ed meat, 10i,000 kilos of dried a turkey, $38 : a fowl, $8 butter, $8 per
;
beans. 104,000 kilos of olive -oil, 104,000 pound a rabbit, 69 a cat, $3 dog, 75
; ; ;
in the Siecle stating that in the past week, school had four killed and five wounded
from Tuesday to Sunday, twenty-five thou- the hospital De la Pitie received several
sand shells have been fired on the forts, and a woman was killed in one of
shells,
each weighing about one hundred pounds, the wards; the military hospital of Yal de
and worth 60 francs apiece little damage, Grace was also struck. All this had taken
;
j
however, had been done. place without any preliminary' notice being
January bth. Cannonade of the forts of given of the bombardment.
\
Nogent and Bondy continued. The Prus- January Kith. The bombaidment of the
'
sians begin firing from the plateau of Cha- forts Montrouge, Yanves, and Issy contin-
tillon on the forts Montrouge, Yanves, and ued, the latter seeming the principal object
Issy, to the south of Paris, and several rf attack. A series of works erected by the
shells fall within the walls in the neigh- I
enemy at Moulin-de-Pierre, in front of Issy,
borhood of the Pantheon. The forts reply destroyed by the French.
with great vigor to the enemy's fire. ! January llth. Several new batteries un-
January 6th. Cannonade against the '
ing too high, but at present no doubt ex- have been obliged to leave the south side
ists that every shot is intentional, as the of Paris and take refuge in the centre of
projectiles nearly all fall in the neighbor- the city. It is officially stated that ^f.
hood of the Military School. Invalides, and Jules Favre, Avho had decided to repair t;>
Pantheon, where gunpowder was believed London to attend the Black Sea Confer-
to have been stored at the commencement ence, has postponed his departure, owing
of the siege. The Pantheon itself was ;
to the unannounced attack on Paris. In
twice struck. Prices at the market Sal- : ; the afternoon took place the funeral of five
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
little children of the Saint Nicolas Asy- I the College RoUin, several barracks, the
lum who were killed by fragments of a slaughter-house of Grenelle, and the Halle
Prussian shell. M. luvre, who was pres- aux Cuirs. Vast crowds at the bakerie-'
ent, delivered an elociuent address on the to obtain bread are obliged to wait their
barbarous manner in which the war was turn during several hours.
conducted by the Gennans. January IStk. A great number of bombs
January l^th. Bombardment continued. were thrown into Paris during the night,
Ineffectual attempts made hy the Prussians ;
and did considerable damage; the Halle
daring the night on the trenches connect- ,
aux Vins was set on lire, the College Rol-
ing the forts. The members of the diplo- lin greatly damaged l)y three shells, the
matic corps in Paris have addressed a note '
ment, usual in such cases, to enable them at 300 grammes a day for an adult, to cost
to provide for the safety of their country- 2 cents., and 150 at 1 cent, for a child the
;
January lUh. A sortie attempted by pound, and the bread is of very inferior
damage. j
I
Seine near the Pont Notre Dame, explod
January l(jth. Tlie Pantheon struck by ing as it touched the water.
a shell also the Church of Saint Sulpice,
; January 20th. Application for an annis4
already reached by six projectiles. In the tice of two days made by the French for
School of Law a shell pierced the roof, and, the burial of their dead, but refused. The
entering the lecture -room, destroyed the bombardment continued with great vio-
benches the lectures consequently sus-
; lence. On the left bank of the Seine the
])ended. One projectile fell at this time Entrepot des Vins, the Polytechnic School,
within one hundred yards of the Seine, an the Pitie, the Hospice des Incurables, the
immense distance within the city. Notice Luxembourg, and the Jardin des Plantes
in the baker's shop that henceforward only were all struck by shells, eighteen f;illing
400 grammes of bread will be given to eacii in the Jardin des Plantes alone. A shell
person, and solely on production of a butch- also fell on the College de France, and
er's card, j
pierced into the hall where !M. Levasseur
January 17 fh. Attack of the Prussians I
was delivering a lecture to a large numlier
on Bondy repulsed. Several public build- of students; happily no one was injured,
—
ings struck by shells the Invalides, the and the lecture was continued without in-
hospitals of La Pitie and La Salpetriere, terruption. Arrival of a dispatch from
Vol. L— O 2 CI]
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
Bordeaux announcing the defeat of Gen- January '25th. Confirmation of the re-
eralChanzy at Le Mans. port of M.Jules Favre's departure for Ver-
January '21st. In the morning a violent sailles, which had been rumored the day
cannonade of the northern forts and of the before. The fire of the Prussians greatly
town of St. Denis commenced ; the old ca- diminished. Publication in Journal Offi-
thedral church was struck three times. A del of Prussian dispatches announcing the
vigorous tiring was also kept up on the defeats of Generals Chanzy, Bourbaki, and
southern side of Paris, replied to by the Faidherbe. Great agitation in Paris, and
forts and ramparts. It has been decided all hope of succor from the provinces aban-
by the Government of National Defense doned.
that in future the chief command of the January 2Qth. Notice in the Journal Offi-
army shall be separated from the post of ciel declaring that the government had con.
;
President of the Government General sidered it its duty to continue the defense
;
Yinoy is. in consequence, appointed Com- so long as there was anj^ hope of succor
mander of the Army of Paris, Gen. Trochu from the provinces, but that at present no
remaining governor of the city.
''
at different points in Paris, where women supply of food being ver}- low, negotiations
and children may go and take their meals were at present going on for an annistice.
in some comfort. Mortality still increas- During its length the German army would
ing, being 4465. In the evening a body occupy the forts, but not the city, and the
of the National Guards of Belleville pre- National Guards would preserve their
sented themselves before the Prison Mazas, '
arms.
forced the door, and liberated Flourens and January ilth. Proclamation from the
seven other prisoners who had taken part government announcing that an armistice
in the attack on the Hotel de Ville on Oct. is about to be signed. The arms of the
31st they then proceeded to the Mairie of
: troops are to be given up (with the excep-
Belleville and took possession, but later tion of the National Guards), the officers
were obliged by superior forces to retire. : keeping their swords; the enemy were not
A council of ministers at
'
against St. Denis was exceedingly violent, which had lasted four months and twelve
\
over sixty shells having struck the Cathe- days, with one month of bombardment.
dral. Publication of Count Bismarck's The object of the convention is to allow
answer to the protest of the diplomatic France to elect a National Assembly to
corps now in Paris against the bombard- deliberate on the conditions of peace. All
ment. the forts around Paris are to be given up,
I
January 2ith. The circle of attack round and the ramparts disarmed. All the
|
the city is becoming visibly narrower, sev- troops, including sailors, Avithin the city
j
eral new and effective batteries having been are to deliver up their arms, and are pris-
established. oners of war, to be delivered up after the
j
314
Paris. [FRANCE.]
armistice if peace is not signed. The Na- licans, sucii as MM. Louis Blanc, Victor
tional Guard retain their arms to preserve Hugo, Garibaldi, Gambetta, Felix P.vat,
order. The German army will afford ev- Rochefort, Delescluze, and Ledru Rollin.
ery assistance for the revictualing of Paris. Februaiy 18th. M. Thiers named by the
The capital is to pay a contribution of National Assembly head of the executive
200,000,000 frs. before" the loth day of the power under that body.
armistice. The belligerent armies are to February Signature at Versailles
2Gth.
retain their respective positions, to be sep- of the preliminaries of peaceby M. Thiers
arated b}' a line of demarcation the same ; and Favre on one hand, and Count Bis-
aiTangement extends to naval forces of the marck on the other. France is to cede to
two countries. An official decree convokes Germany Alsace, with the exception of
the electors to nominate members for the Belfort one fifth of LoiTaine, including
;
National Assembly on the 5th of February Metz and Thionville and the payment of
;
for the Department of the Seine, and on the $1,000,000,000 as a war indemnity also a :
8th for the rest of France. Great agitation part of Paris to be occupied by the Ger-
in Paris, and dissatisfaction expressed at mans until the ratification of the treaty by
the terms of the armistice. Fort Mont- the National Assembly.
rouge handed over to the Prussians. March 1st. Entrj^ of the Prussians into
January oOth. The majority of the forts who occupy the Champs Elysees as
Paris,
delivered up. Mont Yalerien visited by far as the Tuileries Gardens, and in the
the Crown Prince of Prussia. Twenty- other direction from the Seine to the Fau-
live thousand applications have already bourg St. Honore. All shops, cafes, and
been made by persons wishing to leave places of amusement throughout the city
Paris. closed in sign of mourning, and the faces
Januw-y ?>\si. "Works for the re-establish- of the statues in the Place de la Concorde
ment of the railways going on rapidly. covered with crape. No newspapers pub-
February 2d. A first train, containing lished.
flour, arrived in Paris from Rennes an- ; March 2d. Germans established in the
other, from Cholet, brought 248 oxen, and Champs Elysees, but not allowed to pass
another hay. the assigned limits, French sentinels being
February Bd. Arrival of M. Gambetta's posted in every direction.
decree from Bordeaux refusing as candi- March 3d The treaty having been rati-
dates for the Assembly all persons who fiedby the National Assembly, the Ger-
had served under the empire as ministers, mans began their departure at six in the
senators, councilors of state, or prefects, morning, and shortly after ten the last
and all former deputies who had been offi- body had passed the Arc de Triomphe,
cial candidates. leaving Paris by the Avenue de Neuilly.
February 4th. annulling
Official decree The American residents in Paris were
as illegal M. Gambetta's decree at Bor- greatly indebted to their minister, Mr.
deaux. Arrival of a large quantity of Washburne, for his kind exertions during
flour and eatables from Dieppe and Dun- the siege on their behalf. Several at-
kirk. tempts having been made to quarter Mo-
February bth. Arrival of the first train biles and refugees upon his compatriots, he
of provisions sent as a gift from England. [
protested with great firmness, and pro-
February'th. Announcement of the res- \
cured their immediate withdrawal.
ignation of M. Gambetta as member of the I
March 20th. The General Assembly, M.
government. ; Thiers president, mot at Versailles Par- ;
Count de Chambord against the bombard- the government of M, Thiers, two gener-
ment of Paris, and also an address from the als,Lecompte and Clement-Thomas, hav-
Due d'Aumale to the French people de- ing been shot by the insurgents.
claring his readiness to accept a seat in the March 2Gth. Election held in Paris, the
National Assembh'. Communist candidates being chosen, the
February lith. The result of the Paris Central Committee resigning its power into
elections to-day made known. Nearly all I
their hands.
the deputies elected are advanced Repub- 1 April 2d. First conflict between troops
S15
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
tiring at Asnieres, Clich}-, and Neuilly. them to aid in the restoration of order and
A2)i-il '20th. Modification in the compo- tranquillity.
,
employed in besieging the city estima- Jfay '2-ith. A large number of women ar-
I
ted at'^90,000 or 100,000 men, commanded rested in the act of throwing petroleum
in chief by Marshal de Mac^Iahon, and by and lighted matches into the cellars of the
I
Generals de Cissey, Ladmir.wilt, Doua}', houses. The Porte St. Denis and the Porte
De Clinchant, and Du Rarrail. General St. Martin carried by the troops. The
I
Vinoy commanded the Army of Reserve. theatre of the Porte St. Martin burned to
j
Capture of the Arc de Triomphe, followed the ground. Raoul Rigault and Regcre
by the descent of the troops toward the are charged, by order of the Commune,
:
Place de la Concorde and the new Opera, with the execution of the decree relative to
b}' the Champs Elysees and the Boulevard the hostages. Six of these, the Archbish-
Haussmann. Occupation of the Park ?Jon- op of Paris, Abbe Duguerry, curate of the
ceau, Trocadero, and the Invalides. Innu- Madeleine M, Bonjean, president of the
;
gents women and children employed in superior of the College of Jesuits in the
;
the work. Violent proclamations of the Rue des Postes Father Clercq and Abbe
;
Committee of Public Safety. They ap- Allard, chaplain to the ambulances, were
peal to the soldiers of the Army of Ver- shot in the court of the Prison of La Ro-
sailles. Cluseret, released from prison, is quette. The Palais Royal set on fire by
appointed to command at Montmartre the: the insurgents. Occupation of the Fau-
command at Belleville and La Villette bourg St. Germain by the troops of Gener-
given to Dombrowski. Occupation of the al de Cissey. Capture of the Pantheon.
Palace of Industry, the Palace of the Ely- Explosion of a powder magazine in the
see, and the Ministrj^ of the The quarter of the Luxembourg,
Interior. ignited by the
troops received with acclamations b^"- the insurgents by means of an electric wire.
population. Manifestation in favor of the Capture and execution of Raoul Rigault,
government troops in the Rue du Bac be- Procurator of the Commune, the same who
fore their arrival. Possession taken of the had superintended the assassination of
Ministry of Foreign Aftairs by the troops Chaudey. Bombardment of the insurgent
of General Vino}*. quarters of the city i'rom the heights of
May 20f7. Investment and capture of IMontmartre, Confiagratiou of the Palace
Montmartre. Vi(dent fighting in the Place of Justice, the Central Markets, and the
Blanche and the Rue Lepic. Dombrowski Hotel de Ville.
wounded while defending the barricade of May 2'^ih. Capture of the Butte -aux-
the Boulevard Ornano. After his death Cailles and the Gobelins. Fall of the Forts
his remains were carried to the Hotel de Bicetre and Ivrv, taken bv an assault of
317
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
the cavalry of General du Barrail. Assas- assisted in his duties b}' a council of ten
sination by the insurgents of the Domini- members and a secretary general. It has
cans of Arcueil. Execution of Milliere, a over 55.000 members, divided into grand
member of the Commune. Complete oc- crosses,grand officers, commanders, offi-
cupation of the left bank of the Seine and cers,and chevaliers. Nearly every crown-
of the bridges. Fall of the Hotel de Ville. ed head in Europe is a member.
The members of the Commune remove to !
The decoration is a star surmounted by
the Mairie of the 11th Arrondissement. I
a crowTi. In the centre of the star is a
Capture of the Mazas Prison. Attack of [
picture of Napoleon I. encircled with oak
the Place de la Bastille and conflagration and laurel leaves, with the motto ".Vaj50-
of the Grenier d'Abondance. Energetic leon, Empereur des Fran^ais ;'' on the re-
May 2~th. Advance of the army on Belle- annum; grand officers, $400; commanders,
ville, the Buttes-Chaumont, and the Ceme- $200 officers, $100 members, $50. All
; ;
tery of Pere la Chaise. Capture of the officers are nominated for life.
Buttes-Chaumont. Attached the order is the Maison
to
May 28th. Attack and capture of Pere Nationale. This is an educational estab-
la Chaise. Belle\'ille finally subdued, and lishment devoted to the instruction of the
the insurrection conquered. sisters, daughters, and nieces of members
2fay 29th. The disarming of Paris and of the order. It Avas established by Napo-
the dissolution of the National Guards de- leon I. Four hundred pupils receive here
creed by the chief of the executive power. a finished education at the expense of the
May^Oth. The city of Paris divided, by government. They all dress in black, with
order of Marshal MacMahon, into four mil- black bonnets, and are subject to the most
itary districts, under the command of Gen- rigid discipline. To obtain permission to
erals Vinoy, Ladmirault, De Cissey, and visit the Institute, address the grand chan-
Douay, and governed according to martial cellor of the order. Rue de Lille.
law. All wine -shops, cafes, and restau- Fortifications —
of Paris. Paris is consid-
rants ordered to be closed at eleven o'clock ered at the present time one of the best
every evening. No theatre allowed to open fortified cities in the world. In 1841 about
without special authorization from the gov- $30,000,000 were granted for completing
ernment, and the same required from ev- the present fortifications. At a distance
QTV newspaper before it could be published. of about one and a half miles outside the
The preceding diary is only designed to former octroi walls runs a wall about 47
acquaint the reader with the most impor- feet high, bastioned and terraced in addi- ;
tant events which occurred during the siege tion to Avhich there are seventeen outworks
of Paris by the Prussians, and subsequent- or forts, which include the principal sub-
ly under the Commune. For a fuller knowl- urbs of Paris, and command the approach
edge of what transpired during the terrible in every direction. They are calculated
sieges which Paris has undergone, we can for2760 gun-carriages, 575 rampart guns,
only refer the reader to any of the numer- 2238 mortars or cannon, and 20,000 mus-
ous histories Avith Avhich the literary world kets. These fortifications have been great-
has been flooded since that time. Iv damaged during the two late sieges,
The Order of the Legion of Honor. This 1
and require a large amount of reparation.
order was established in 1802. The em-
peror was then grand master. The grand 1
Tribunal of Commerce. —
Presided over
ADMINISTRATION. I
—
Mayors. There are twenty mayors in recently converted partly into a political
Paris, one to each arrondissement, whose prison, and partly into a kind of hulks for
duty relates to the civil administration of convicts whose punishment is of short du-
the city. They sit every day from 12 ration, St. Lazare, a threat female prison
until 2. The Prefect of the Department for criminals committed for trial or for
of the Seine is the head mayor. short duration if fcr over that time they
;
—
The Police. The Minister of the Interior are sent to Maison Centrale. It contains
Is the supreme head of the police imder
; over 1200 cells. There is also in this pris-
him acts the prefect of police for the De- on an infirmary for prostitutes, containing
partment of the Seine, who is also presi- about 850 beds. It has generally an av-
dent of the council of health, composed of : erage of about 1000 inmates, and receives
20 members, all of whom are surgeons, i
annually 10,000 prisoners. Dc2:>jt des Con^
chemists, or physicians, whose jurisdiction damme's for criminals condemned to the
extends over all the sanitarv- affairs of the hulks or to death, and remarkable for be-
capital. Paris is divided into 80 quarters ; \
ing at once light, airy, and healthy, and
in each quarter resides a commissaire of po-
'
the same fate. The Militnrif Prison, for- Princes, Jouffroy, des Panoramas tho ;
merlv r Abhaye, the most L'loomy of all the Boi;rse; Gate Saint Denis; Gate Saint
Parisian dungeons, and, during the Reign Martin Depot of the Strasbourg Railway;
;
of Terror, a den of horrors. This last, as Barracks of the Chateau d'Eau; Boule-
well as the PalnU du Tpmple, have rccentl}' vard Voltaire Mayoralty of the 11th Dis- ;
been pulled down, and two landmarks of trict Boulevard Richard-Lenoir the Col-
; ;
i
modern paintings museum of drawings) ;
Ch'ldren born in France of American Pa- Markets Square and Fountain of the In- ;
rents. — The laws of France make it incum- nocents the ruins of the Hotel de Ville ;
bent on ever}' foreigner, as well as native, the Louvre (museums of ancient and mod-
that three days after the birth of a child ern sculpture, Assyrian, Eg}-ptian, and ma-
it shall be taken, either by the father or rine).
medical attendant, to the mayor of the bth Diy. The Gaillon Fountain Marche — ;
arrondissement, and there have the birth Saint Honoro the Pont des Arts Palace ; :
properly registered. Two witnesses are of the Fine Arts; Hospital de la Charite
also necessary to sign the register. Any Institute; the Lil>rary of Mazarin the ;
person neglecting to comply with the con- Pont Neuf ruins of the Palace of Justice ;
ditions of the law is liable to fine or impris- Notre Dame; Hotel Dieu.
onment. Any child born in France of 6^^ Day. Boulevard Malesherbes —
American parents is entitled to all the Church of Saint Augustin Hospital Bcau- ;
rights of a native if claimed one year after jon the Park de Mouceaux
; Russian ;
event of death, notice must be given to the dustry Diorama Palace de TElysee. ; ;
I
Palace of the Legislative —
tives or friends of the deceased. The may- Body the Invalides
; Tomb of Napoleon ;
death, and the body can not be interred the Rue de Grenelle the Ministry of the ;
321
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
Fountain of Saint Sulpice the Luxem- ; oth Day. of the Saints Peres —Bridge
bourg (palace, museum, and garden) Palace of the Fine Arts Palace of the In- ;
12th Z)c7sr,— Conservatory of Arts Ecole ; Library, burned down during the Com-
Turgot; Church of Saint Nicolas -des- mune ; Bridge d" Arcole ; Palace of Jus-
Champs ;
Temple tice Tribunal of Commerce
Synagogue Prefecture
;
the ;
: :
Temple Archives. :
Fountain of Saint Michael Cluny Mu- ;
—
;
—
loth Day. Versailles (museum, garden, dens).
and battlements).
For two days :
Ist Day. The Madeleine Boulevard — ;
Siffhts of Paris for eight days : sian Church; Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile;
1st Day. The Madeleine Boulevards — Champs Elysees Palace of Industry ; ;
;
Seances; Passage de I'Opera; Passage la Concorde the Garden and ruins of the ;
ry ; Passage des Panoramas Gate Saint leries and garden) National Library' : :
Denis Gate Saint Martin Conservatory Saint Germain I'Auxerrois Palace of Jus-
: ; ;
Church of the Assumption Church Saint Gate Saint Martin Gate Saint Denis. : ;
"Wheat Market Central [Markets Square The Madeleine Faubourg Saint Ho-
: ;
;
and Fountain of the Innocents Tower of nore Palace de I'Elysee; Avenue de Ma- :
'
Saint Jacques de la Boucherie Saint Ger- rigny et Champs Eh'sees Arc de Tri- : ;
ies and garden) the Louvre (museum of Concorde Garden and ruins of the Tuil-
;
! ;
ancient and modern painting museum of eries the Louvre the Palais Roj-al (gal- ;
I
;
;
open.
bourg (museum and garden); the Panthe- i —
Bois de Vincennes. This wood is always
on Botanical Gardens Boulevards Cha-
; ; ;
[
open.
teau d'Eau and Barrack; Gate Saint Mar- The Bourse, at the place of the same
tin Gate Saint Denis.
;
name, is open every day, except Sundays
and holidays, from 1 to 5 o'clock.
Days and hours when the Museuma, Mon- Catacombs are no longer open to the
uments, and Libraries may be seen 1 public. Two or three times a year a cer-
Arc di Tnomphe de I'Etoile, at the place tain number of persons are allowed to vie-
—
[
of the Guard for permission to mount to Engineer of the Mines, who must be ad-
the summit. A
small pour hoire is neces- dressed at the City Hall.
sary. I
Chateau de Vincennes. —
Visible every
Arsenal, Rue de I'Orme, is not open to day from 12 to 4 o'clock, with a permit
the public. from the Director of Artillery at the Ad-
Library of the Arsenal, Rue de Sully. — j
i
ministration of War.
Open every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, ex- College of France, VxUQ des Ecoles. —Ad-
cept on Sundays and holidays. dress the concierge (pourboire).
Library of the City of Paris, at the City Colonne Vendume, Place Vendome.
Hall, Rue Lobau. —
Open every day from
10 to 3 o'clock, except Sundays and holi- Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. —The
days, j
galleries of collections and machines are
Library of the College of Late, Place of open gratuitously to the public Sundays
the Pantheon. —
Open every day to the and Thursdays from 10 to 4 o'clock Mon- ;
students from 10 to 3 o'clock, except Sun- days, Tuesday's, and Saturdays the price
days and holidays. is one franc. The library is open every
Library of the School of ^fedicine, Rue day, except ^fonday, from 10 to 4 o'clock.
de I'Ecole de Medecine. —
Open to the 'Hotel de I'vYA.— Burned May 21th, by the
scholars every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, Comumnists, at tl)e entrance of the govern-
except Sundays and holidays, and in the ment troops. Magnificenth- rebuilt in 1882.
evenings from 7 to 10 o'clock. —
Hotel des Jnvnlides. Every day, except
Library of the Insiitute, QuaiConti, 21. — [
For the public exercises of music which except Sundays and holidays, from 11 to 4
take place four or five times a year, a tick- o'clock, with a permit from the Minister
et is necessary from the director. of State.
Botanical Gardens, Place Walhubert and —
Sorhonne. The amphitheatres are open
Eue GeoflFrey St. Hilaire. —
Open every durimr the hours of recess. They have
day from morning until evening. The nothing remarkable. The church is only
Menagerie is open in Avinter from 11 o'clock open the entire day on Sundays and holi-
^ until dark, and in summer from 10 to 6
.-•^ o'clock.
days during the -week it is open in the
;
Palais de la Ugion d'Honneur, Rue de none of them were capable of paying ex-
Lille, 64. —
Burned bv the Communists penses. Napoleon I. suppressed them all
May 24th. Rebuilt. but nine, having compensated the others.
Palais de V Industrie, and Cliamps Elysees. Under Louis XVIII. there was an annual
— Open every day from morning until sum allotted out of the civil list toward the
evening to strangers after having showed support of the principal theatres.
; After
their passports, or to persons furnished the days of Corneille and Racine the drama
with permits delivered by the Minister of assumed a languishing position in Paris,
State. until it was restored to its pristine glory
Palais des Beaux- Arts, Rue Bonaparte, by the genius of Rachel. Until the reijn
14. — Open every day. of Louis XIV. all female characters were
Palais des Tuileries. —
The ruins were personified hy men. The immortal Talma
pulled down in 1883 the gardens remain. Avas the first who inaugurated the present
;
Palais Royal. —
The galleries and the correctness in both dress and manners of
garden are open every day from morning the French stage.
until midnight. The interior of the palace All the theatres of Paris pay a tax to
is not public. the government of ten per cent, of their
—
Palais du Luxembourg. Xot visible, be- receipts. In 1874 the income to the
ing temporarily appropriated to the trans- government from this source was nearly
action of Town-hall business. 6=200.000, while the government voted
—
Pare Monceaux. Open every day from $300,000 to sustain the principal ones for
morning until evening. the purpose of cultivating the classic pro-
Prisons. —Are only visible to persons ductions of the stage, the knowledirc of ^
furnished with a special permit from the the Italian language, and the lighter styles
Prefect of the Police. of national music. The government also
—
Sainte Chapelle. To be seen everv dav, awards large premiums to tho four best
324
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
pieces repr3sented every j-ear. There are The Xeio Opera House. — When in 1860
now about ib theatres, and 150 different the erection of a new Opera House was
places of amusement in Paris and vicinit}*, decided on, 171 competitive plans were
all of which are open during the summer presented by as many architects. Out of
season, made up of gardens, cafe-concerts, this avalanche of projects, 43 were in the
etc. They are all well regulated;
guards first instance retained by the jury appoint-
and policemen furnished hy the govern- ed for the occasion subsequent delibera-
;
ment outside and in. To secure seats dur- tions reduced that number first to 16, and
ing the da}-, you must pay twenty-five per then to 7, when Mr. Charles Garnier final-
cent, more than if you buy your tickets in ly proved the successful candidate, and
Jhe evening but it should invariably be was intrusted with the herculean task.
;
ione, if there be any excitement other- And, by the way, this eminent artist has,
;
wise you must fall into line, with two or in the public mind, become so identified
three hundred persons in advance of you. with the edifice that he now goes by the
The police arrangements at the theatre are name of Garnier de I'Opera. Is not gen-
so admirable that the least confusion is ius, in point of fact, to say the least of it,
avoided. If you proceed in a hired car- as good a title to nobility as mere birth .'
riage, it is necessary that you should pay The new theatre covers nearly three
before you arrive at the theatre to avoid acres of ground the great Petersburg the-
;
delay at the door. If your carriage is call- atre (the next in point of extent), only one
ed and you are not waiting, it must pass and one seventh. Its cubic mass is 4,287,-
on and take its turn again. Gentlemen 000 feet that of the great theatre in Mu-
;
without ladies generally take orchestra nich (the next in point of bulk), 1,295,000.
stalls, or seats in the side balcony; with The warming is effected by 15 furnaces.
ladies, in the stalls of the balcony. The The lighting consists of 9000 gas-jets, sup-
—
{
prices vary from .$2 50 to fifty cents in the plied by 45,000 feet of pipes equal in
different houses. The principal places of length to about 10 miles. The reservoirs
amusement are, (in the basement and in the roof) provid-
ing against fire casualties are capable of
containing 1,000,000 gallons of water.
The New Opera House, when entirely
finished, will have cost the nation, includ-
ing every thing appertaining, 100,000,000
francs.
When your eyes first meet the front of
this leviathan pile, they are completely
dazzled, owing to the multiplicity of ob-
jects —groups, statues, busts, and medall-
ions, in marble, stone, and bronze— of which
it is composed, and the variety of colors,
The arrangement of the various depart- their presence the many successful pro-
1
ments of this immense establishment leaves ductions which have of late years been
no requirement whatever ungratitied. The brought out at this magnificent place of
splendor of the interior decorations is be- amusement. Under the intelligent direc-
j-^ond description. These have not, of tion of the then manager, M. de la Rou-
course, been able, any more than the rest, nat, it proved not an unworthy rival of
to escape criticism ;
yet we rather think, the first Theatre Fran^ais in a series of
upon the whole, that the general public, remarkable plays, often due to the pen of
and more particularly such persons as writers heretofore unknown, whom I\I. de
were privileged to enjoy the unique and la Rounat, in the true spirit of an artist,
indescribable sight of the inauguration, welcomed to his stage. One of these
will unanimoush- return a favorable ver- plays, Le Testament de Cesar Girodot, was
dict on the merits of the New Opera House, performed two or three hundred times,
and look upon it as the " wonder of the and Le Marquis de Villemer, by George
day." Sand, met with unprecedented success,
At any rata, the splendid result is due drawing nightly crowded audiences for
to the combined labor of none but first- several consecutive months.
—
rate artists such as Gamier, Baudry, Car- Theatre du Vaudeville, corner Boulevard
peaux, Violet, etc. A new and beautiful des Capucines and the Rue de la Chaussee
street, Avenue de I'Opera, was opened in d'Antin, holds 1000 persons. Vaudevilles,
1878, running from the Opera House to the comedies, and domestic dramas, by an ex-
Tnilerics. cellent company -l frs. to 12 frs. 50 c.
;
Theatre de VOpera Comique, Place des Sardou's plays are mosth' brought out here,
Italiens, capable of accommodating 1800 "Fedora," with Sarah Bernhardt, being
persons. To every other box there is a the last.
small saloon, where refreshments may be Theatre du Gymnase, Boulevard Bonne
had between the acts. The air is supplied Nouvelle, opened in 1826 under the patron-
from the cellar, where, in summer time, age of the Duchesse de Berri. It was in
egress from openings in the ceiling. This first presented to an admiring public.
house receives $50,000 from the govern- Places, 1050.
ment per annum for the purpose of en- Theatre des Varietes, 7 Boulevard Mont-
couraging the lighter styles of national martre 1200 seats. Opera-bouffe is chiefly
;
try, and the government devotes 850,000 Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, Boule-
annually to the maintenance of the legiti- vard St. Martin. This theatre was burned
mate drama at this establishment. It is to the ground during the terrible seven
situated on Kue Richelieu, at the Palais days' conflict between the Communists and
Royal. Dumas's, Scribe's, Augier's, and government troops since rebuilt. Melo-
;
Victor Hugo's productions are brought out drama and extravaganza. Places, 2000 ;
Hading, Desclausas, and Messrs. Vautier, he has introduced Wagner and others, and
Jolly, Cooper, etc., have made this house helped to do away with many foolish preju-
extremely popular. Places, 1800 ;
prices, dices. Faure and other leading artists are
7 frs. to 12 frs. heard.
Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, 40 Rue The Concerts du Theatre du Chateau
de Bondy. Opera-bouflFe. Rebuilt after d'Eau, the Concerts du Chatelet, and the
burning by the Commune. Here Plan- Concerts du Cirque d'Ete, like the above,
"
quette's famous "Cloches de Corneville take place Sunday afternoons, and are
was played over 500 consecutive nights b}' chiefly classical.
Mesdames Girard and Gelabert,and Messrs. Besides these, there are other concerts, at
Simon Max, Mauge, Lues, Mademoi- which nearly all the leading musicians of
etc.
selle Girard's acting is said to have proved every country may be heard these are, :
Cafes-Chantants, etc. —The Eden-Theatre, I'Opera, the New Opera House, Grand
a magnificent new establishment on the Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines, Rue de
Eue Auber; the Folies Berg'eres, the Palace la Paix, the new Avenue de T Opera, Rue
Theatre, in the Rue Blanche, all covered Auber,
an elegant resort for the
etc. It is
and the Alcazar, Ambassadeurs, Ilorloge, Americans visiting Paris,
better class of
in the Champs Elysees the Eldorado and
: and to Americans in good standing in clubs
Scala, in the Boulevard de Strasbourg; in the United States. Candidates must
the Alcazar, the Bataclan, the Bijou, etc., have their names posted up for three days,
the first three of which are in the open aur. when they are balloted for as monthly
There are concert-rooms, spectacle con- members.
certs, and puppet-shows but nothing more
; Close to the American Club, at No. 4
of importance to occupy the time of a Rue du Helder, is the establishment of Mr.
traveler, if we except the numerous cafes- Wurzinger, the American tailor, who has
concerts, or cafes -chantants, open on the long enjoyed the reputation of being one
Boulevard du Temple in winter, and the of the most fashionable in Paris his prices ;
Champs Elysees in summer. Here you are moderate, and his American clientele
are accommodated in the open air with very large.
something to eat or drink, while listening
to scraps of operas or songs. There is no —
Panoramas. The Siege of Paris, in the
ticket of admission necessary, but every Champs Eh-sees, near the Palais de 1' In-
person, on entering, is expected to order dustrie. 1 fr.
some refreshments. Some of the perform- The Cuirassiers de Reichshoffen, 251 Rue
ers occasionally pass through the audience St. Honore, is very fine it represents the ;
to collect a trifle from the pleased listener. famous charge of the French cuirassiers in
1870. Entrance, 2 frs.
Public Balls. — Opera Bab Masques, four The BataiUe de Champigny, in the Rue
in number, after January 1st, beginning at de Berri, close to the American Chapel, is
midnight. Gentleman, 20 frs. lady, 10 frs. ; by Detaille and De Neuville, the latter be-
The sight is the finest of the kind in the ing the first battle-painter living. The
world. The other balls, where every kind British government lately ordered of him a
of company is met, are : canvas representing Sir Garnet Wolseley's
Bullier, Carrefour de TObservatoire, a arrival at the bridge at Tel-el-Kebir, Egypt,
ball-room mostly frequented by the stu- Lord Wolseley consenting to pose for him.
dents of the Latin Quarter, where they Entrance, 1 fr.
meet their fair but frail companions danc- ; There is a Russian Panorama and Dio-
ing Monday's, Thursdays, and Sundays. rama at 22 Boulevard des Capucines, and
Bal Wagravi, Avenue de "Wagram. several uninteresting exhibitions of the
Elysee Montmartre, 80 Boulevard Roche- same nature.
chouart, much frequented.
Laborde, 10 Rue de la Victoire, expen-
sive.
Perrinjils, Rue Vivienne, expensive.
TivoU, Rue de la Douane.
Balls and masked balls are continually
taking place at the difl^"ereiit concert-halls,
principally on Saturday. The}-^ are duly
announced by the bills on the kiosks.
The Jardin Mahille no longer exists.
Fortunate those Avho have seen it, for it
was sometimes a sight to see.
I Bureaux. —
130 Rue Saint Honor6 ; 8
'
Rue de Londres 5 Rue Le Pelletier ; 7
;
of omnibus steamboats was formed between
Rue de Babylone 28 Rue Xotre Dame ;
Paris and Saint Cloud in 1866.
I
Iiailicat/s. —
Paris is the head of eight I
Nazareth 6 Place Saint Sulpice 7 Place
; ;
—
Chemins defer de V Quest. Lines of Kor- length, from the Gate Saint Martin to the
mandie, Auteuil, Versailles, St. Germain, Gate Sailit Denis) on the right. Rue du ;
and Argenteuil Station, 124 Rue Saint La- Faubourg St. Martin, Boulevard dc Stras-
zare and 9 Rue d'Amsterdam. bourg et Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis;
Lines of Bretagne and Versailles Sta- on the left. Rue Saint Martin, Boulevard
tion, 44 Boulevard Montpamasse. de Sebastopol et Rue Saint Denis.
—
Bureaux. For the depot Saint Lazare, The Boulevard Bonne XouveUe (375 yards,
Place de la Bourse Boulevard Bonne
;
from the Rue St. Denis to the Rue du Fau-
jSTouvclle ; Pointe Sainte Eustache ; Place I
bourg Poissonniere) on the right, Palace ;
du Chatelet (one departure only for the ! Bonne Nouvelle, of which the cellars are
].st trains after the close of the theatres)
;
' occupied by a market, the ground floor by
2 Place Saint Andre des Arts. a large bazaar, and the upper stories by
For the depot Montparnasse, 2 Place the Cafe de France, Theatre du Gymnase ;
du Palais Royal ; Place de la Bourse ; Rue on the left, Rue Notre Dame de Bonne
Suint Martin ; 4 Rue Bourtibourg. Xouvelle, in -which is also a church of the
Chemin. de fer de Sceaux et d Orsay. — same name.
Railwav Station at the former Barriers The Boulevard Pi.issonniere (379 yards in
d'Enfor. length) on the right, Bazaar du Voyage,
:
et la Bourse ; Place Saint Sulpice, and 130 phete, Des tapis d'Aubusson, and Bazaai
Rue Saint Honore, by the Pont Ncuf. of French Industry.
The omnibus lines A. <?., J.., A. F.y and The Boulemrd Montmarfre (273 yards in
the Monirougiennes, conduct from all points length, from the street Montmartre to the
of Paris to the depot. streets Drouot and Richelieu) ; splendid
I
cafes on the right and left on the left, ;
The Boulevard Beaumarchais (759 yards long, from the streets Drouot on the right
in length, from the Colonne de Juillet to and Richelieu on the left to the Pavilion
the Rue Saint Sebastien on the right, to de Hanovre on the left and the Rue de la
;
the Rue du Pont aux Choux on the left) Chausee d'Antin on the right) is the ren-
; i
on the right, houses built on lands belong- dezvous for Parisia-n fashion on the right :
ing to the Hotel Beaumarchais on the side, exhibition-rooms of the Disderi pho-
;
la i\Iule, Saint Gilles, and des Tournelles. |the old Opera, burned in 1874 Rues La- ;
T7ie Bouhv trd des Filles du Calvaire (825 fitte and Taitbout
Cafe Riche Restaurant
!
; ;
No.
The Boulevard du Temple (542 yards in Theatre des Fantaisies Parisiennes,
|
length) : on the right, Cirque National, 26; house of the armorer Devisme,
Rue du
j
de Paris, Theatres des Folies Dramatiques, The BoriJevird (h^ Cnpuc'.n s (pA2 yards
de I'Ambigu et de la Porte Saint Martin. in I n-th, from the Pavilion de Hanovre
The Boulevard Saint Denis (271 j-ards in aud the Rue do la Chaussec d'xVntin to the
330
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
Rue du Luxembourg) on the left, photo- bank), the Boulevard de la Gare, from the
; I
graphic saloons of Mayer and Pierson, Wharves de la Gare and d'Austerlitz to the
confectioner Buissier, htores de Tahan, Rue d'Austerlitz the Boulevard d'Jvry, ;
Rue dc la Paix, stores of Alphonse Gi- from the Rue d'Austerlitz to the route de
roux, in the place of the former Ilatel des Choisy and the Place de la Barriere dTta-
Affaires Etrangeres on the riglit, tlic new
;
lie the Boulevard d'ltalie, from the Place
;
Opera, the Grand Hotel, the Jockey Club, d' Italic to the Rue de la Sante the Bou-
;
etc. i
levard Saint Jacques, from the Rue de la
The Boulevard de la Madeleine (217 yards Sante to the Place dc la Barriere d'Enfcr
in length) on the left, Cite Vindii, stores
; the Boulevard d'Enftr, from the Place
of Le Goupy, Gouache, des Trois Quarti- d'Enfer to the Boulevard Montpamasse;
ers, mourning store of Sainte Madeleine the Boulevard de Montrouge, from the Bou-
on the right, Kues de Seze, Gaudot de levard d'Enfer to the Place de la Barriere
Mauroy, and de la Ferme des Mathurins du Maine the Boulevard de Vaugirard,
;
at the end of the boulevard is the Place from the Place du Maine to the Rue dc
de la Madeleine, surrounding the church Sevres and the Avenue de Breteuil the ;
Wharves de Percy and de la Rapee to the yards), beginning at the Place Walhubert,
Rue de Charenton the Boulevard de lieu-
; between the Botanical Gardens on the
illy, from the Rue de Charenton to the right, and the depot of the Chcmin de fer
Rue Picpus the Boulevard de Plcpus, from
; d'Orleans on the left (on the right, Boulc-
the Rue de Picpus to the Cours de Vin- vard Saint Marcel, and church of the same
cennes the Boulevard de Charonne, from
;
I
name; on the left. Abattoir de Yillejuif) ;
the Cours de Vincennes to the Rue des the Boulevard des Gobelins (927 yards), a
Rats, and Boulevard de Philippe Au- continuation of the Boulevard de I'Hopi-
guste the Boulevarc\ Jlenilmontant, from
; tal, and united to the old Boulevard exferi-
the Rue des Rats to the Rue Oberkampf eur d' Italie ; the Bonkvard Saint Jacques
and to the Chaussee de Menilmontant ; (980 3^ards), from the Rue de la Glaciero
the Boulevard de Belleville, from the to the ancient Barriere d'Enfer, and to
Chaussee de Menilmontant to the Rues which have been united the Boul'vards de
du Faubourg, du Temple, and de Par- la Glaciere, de la Sante and dWrrudl (on
,
formed by the mooting of the Avenues de ic tower of the chapel of the Convent
Wagram and des Ternes, and to the Rue des Oiseaux). On the right bank of the
du Faubourg Saint Ilonore (on the left :
I
Seine are the Boulecards de la Contrcscarpe
331
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
and Bourdon (of 650 and 759 yards), from sonnerie, leading to the central markets
the Place de la Bastille to the Seine. Rue Aubry Boucher, from which may be
seen the Square of the Innocents The- ;
Arc de Tiiompbe to the western extremity to the Rue another from the
Hautefeuille ;
same name.
of the Place of the Rue St. Dominique St. Germain, near the
Avenue cVEykm, from the Arc de Tri- "War Office, to the Bridge de la Concorde
omphe to the Gate de la Muette. and finally a very short one from Rue
Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and Avenue d'Erfurth to Rue Taranne, by the church
de la Grande Armee, ending, the first at the St. Germain des Pres.
Gate Dauphinc, and the second at the Gate Avenue de Vincennes (2383 yards), from
de Neuilly, I
the Rue de Lyon to the ancient Barriere de
Avenue d'Essling, which is to be extend- Reuilly.
ed to the Avenue des Ternes. The Boulevard d'Austerlitz (650 yards),
Avenue Mac-Mahon, from the Arc de from the Bridge d'Austerlitz to the R«e de
Triomphe to the Avenue des Ternes and Charenton.
the Place de Courcelles. Avenue Par mender (1950 yards), from
A venue de Wagram, from the Arc de Tri- the Abattoir de Menilmontant to the Rue
omphe to the prolongation of the Boulevard d'Alibert on the north, and to the south
Malesherbes. until it meets the Boulevard du Prince
Avenue Hoche (8G6 yards), from the Arc Eugene.
de Triomphe to the Park Monceaux. The Boulevard de Philippe Augusfe, from
Avenue de Friedland (1950 yards, an- the Barriere du Trone to the Cemetery of
cient Boulevard Beaujon), from the Place Pere la Chaise.
de TEtoile to the place formed by the The Boulevard Saint Marcel, from the
meeting of the streets Faubourg Saint Rue de Lourcine to the Boulevard Arago.
Honore, de Monceaux, and de I'Oratoire The Boulevard de Port Royal, from the
du Roule. Rue MoufFetard to the crossway de POb-
The Boulevard Haussmann, between the servatoire.
preceding place and the Rue de la Chaus- The Boulevard Arago, from the Rue de
see d'Antin (it will be extended farther). Lourcine to the Rue d'Enfer.
Av.'uue de I'Eitijjereur, from the Place du The nineteen sections of the Rue Mili~
Pont de I'Alma to the Gate de la Muette. taire, transformed into boulevards, bear
Avenue de V Alma, from the Avenues des the following names on the right bank, :
Champs Elysces to the Quay de Bill}'. Boulevard Poniatowski, from the Gate de
The Boulevard Pereire, double avenue, Bercy to the Gate de Picpus Boulevard ;
extending from the station of the Porte Soult, from the Gate de Picpus to that of
Maillot to the Rue de Sante, near the Sta- Vincennes Boulevard Davoust, from the
;
The Boulivard des Amandi' rs (1950 Serrurier, from the Gate de Romainville to
yards), from the Chateau d'Eau to the an- the passage of the Canal de rOurcq Boule- ;
cient Barricre des Amandiers. vard Macdonald, from the passage of the
The Boukvard de Afagenta, from the Canal de I'Ourcq to the Gate d'Aubervil-
Chateau d"Eau to the Boulevard de la Cha- liers Boulvard Kdj. from the Gate d'Au-
;
near the church Saint Laurent, and the Rue vard Bessieres, from the Gate of Saint
1
Lafayette near the Depot du Nord. Ouen to thatof Clichy: B<m'< rarl B' rtki' r,
I
The Boulevar I Ornano, a continuation of from the Gate de Clichy to that of the Re-
the foregoing, beginning at Boulevard de la volte Boulevard Gouvion Saint Cgr, from
;
Chapelle, and leading to the Gate of Clig- the Gate de la Revoke to that of Neuilly
nancourt. Boulevard Lannes. from the Gate of Neuilly
The Boulevard Hi hard Lenoir (1950 to that of La ^luette Boulevard S^icket, ;
yards), from the Rue du Faubourg du from the Gate de la Muette to that of
Tem-^-. to the Place de la Bastille. Auteuil Boulevard Murat, from the Gate
:
Tij^L, Bo'devnrd /St. (iermnin, which i^ to of Auteuil to the Seine on the left bank, ;
run from the Bridge de la Concorde to Quai Boulevard Massena. from the Gate of the
St. Bernard, has for the present only three Depot to the Ciate d' Italic Boulevard Ke'- :
aect'ons finished one from (Juai St. Bernard hrmann, from the Gate d'ltalie to that of
:
333
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
passage of the Chemin de fer de I'Ouest bank); the Quai d'Austerlitz (left bank),
Boulevard Leftvre, from the passage of from the Quai de la Gare to the new de-
the Chemin de fer de I'Ouest to the Gate de pot of the Chemin de fer d'Orleans; the
Versailles Boulevard Victor^ from the Gate
; Quai Henri IV. (right bank) the Quai St, ;
' Thr. Quays.~The quays, beginning at de la Conference (right bank), serving for a
the point where the Seine enters Paris, road to the American horse-railway the ;
The Bridges. — There are 27 bridges four ma}-- be seen at the same time. The
across the Seine, viz. the Pont Napoleon
: new Pont Louis Philippe (3 arches, in .'stone);
III., afew yard.s beyond the fortifications the Pont d'Arcole, an iron bridge, allowing
between the Gate de Bercy (on the right the passage of carriages, and reconstructed
bank) and the Gate de la Gare, composed in 1854 according to a system invented by
of 6 arches (733 j'ards long), and serving M. Ondry. engineer the Pont Xotre Dame,
;
at the same time for a railroad and for foot- rebuilt only a few years ago the Pont au
;
to another), recently constructed in place Pont de I'A rch rrch<', built in 1828 on tlie
of an old suspension bridge of the same small arm of the Seine (3 unequal arches) :
name; the Pont dWmfer.'itz (o arches in tlie Pont au />o?/6'e, reconstructed in ls53
stone, 140 yards in length, 28 yards in with a single arch on the small arm of the
width. The names of the principal of- I
Seine the Pont St. Charles, covered by
;
ficers killed at Austerlitz are inscribed on i a glazed gallery, uniting the buildings of
the ornaments that decorate the bridge), I
the Hotel Dieu the Pitit Pont, rebuilt in
;
greatly damaged on the 25th of January, I 1853 with a single arch in stone the P(mt
;
smaller branch of the Seine. The Pont Ntvf constructed in 1854-55 to unite the west,
—
and Statue of Henry IV. This bridge was ern extremity of the Quai de la Conference
constructed in the middle of the IGth cen- to the Quai d'Orsay (3 arches between
;
tun' by Henrj^ III. Its length is over these arches are statues representing a
1000 feet breadth, 78,
; It was formerly, grenadier and a zouave, by M. Dieboldt a ;
like the London bridge, the habitual resort hunter, on foot, and an artilleryman, by ]\I.
of jugglers, burglars, and thieves. Near Arnaud) the Pont d'Jena, constructed in
;
the centre, on Tile aux Vaches, stands the 1806 to 1813, opposite the Champs de Mars
statue of Henry IV. It was erected in (5 arches, in stone sculptured eagles above
;
1818 by order of Louis XVIII., and was the piers at the extremities, colossal stat-
;
formed from the material of the statue of ues representing allegorical personages)
Napoleon, taken from the Place Vendame, the Pont de Crenelle constructed in 1818 (6
and that of General Desaix, taken from the arches) the Punt du Point da Jour, or
;
Place des Victoires. Its height is 14 feet, d'Auteuil, finished in 1866, and destined
and weighs 30,000 pounds. The bridge is for the passage of the railroad. There
built entirely of stone, and the view from are 2 roads, one for foot-passengers, car-
it is XQTy beautiful the Pont des
; A rts, con- riages, and horses, the other for the rail-
structed from 1801 to 1803, and reserved way 2 stories, on 5 large arches.
;
336
Paris. [FRANCE.]
mob stopped their fire for a few moment'; •
molished by a decree of the National Con- leon in 1806, under the direction of Per-
vention, and part of the material employed cier and Fontaine, and after the model of
in the construction of the Bridge de la the arch of Septimus Sev^erus at Home.
Concorde. This is the entrance to the The Place de la Republique, formed by
Faubourg St, Antoino, and on this spot the the meeting of the boulevards du Temple,
insurgents erected their strongest barri- Saint Martin, du Prince Eugene, de Ma-
cade in 1848. Here the good and miich- igenta, and de la Rue du Temple, owed its
bcloved Archl-.isho]) of Paris. Denis AftVe, name to a beautiful fountain called the
-was shot by the insurgents while using his [Chateau d'Eau, prior to 1881.
efforts to stop the bloody conflict -which Place du Chdtiht was tlic site of the
I
had been going on for three daj's. He had court of justice and prison of Paris during
I
peace, to stop the frightful carnage which 1808, the lirst monument raised in com-
was going on. He was preceded by a memoration of the victories of thellcpublic
3"oung man bearing an olivc-liranch as a and the Empire.
I
On this place are two
token of peace. As he apprcached, the line theatres, the Lvrique and the Chatclet.-
Vol. I.— P 2 337
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
The Placede la Concorde, or Place Louis time, the other to fluvial navigation. The
XV. On the spot -where formerly stood basins are fifty feet in diameter. Colossal
the statue of that monarcli the ULclisk of figures surround the base, separated by
Luxor now stands. The great space which spouting dolphins, winged children, and
separates the garden from the Chumps spouting swans.
Eh'sces (a square of 750 feet long by 525 Place Davphine, formed in 1608, and
broad) composes this place, which, histori- named after the Dauphin, afterward Louis
cally speaking, is one of the most noted in XI 1 1. In the centre is a fountain erected
Paris. Here it was, in 1770, that, during in 1803 in honor of Desaix, who fell at the
the celebration of the nuptials of Louis battle of Marengo. The fountain bears
XVI. and Marie Antoinette, in the midst the bust of Desaix, represented as being
of a panic caused by a discharge of fire- crowned with laurel by a figure of France.
works, the carriages were driven among The Place of the Arc de Tnomphe de
the people, and over 1200 persons were VEtoile, which is the beginning of twelve
trampled to death. Here, also, took place boulevards, all running in diflferent direc-
the collision between the people and the tions. In the centre rises the A re de Tri-
soldiers, which was the signal fur the de- omphe de V Etoile, which opens into the
struction of the Bastile. On this spot Bois de Boulogne. This colossal monu-
stood, in 1793 and 1794, the dreadful guil- j
ment was erected to celebrate the victo-
lotine, on which were executed Louis XVL, [
ries of the French under the Republic and
his unfortunate consort, Marie Antoinette, Empire. It owes its existence to Napoleon
I
of Paris. At this place the insurrec- the principal arch is 90 feet its cost was :
Place di la Concorde ; in 1814, Place Louis six feet high, and the figures eighteen feet.
XV. ; in 1852, Place de la Concorde again. I
The right-side group tov.ard Paris repre-
In the centre of the place stands the sents the departure for the defense of the
Obelisk of Luxor, presented to the French country the Genius of "War cncoura-ing
;
government by Mohammed Ali, Pasha of warriors to action. The left group repre-
Egypt. It weighs 500,000 pounds, is 72 sents the victories of 1810 Napoleon I. :
feet 3 inches high, 7 feet G inches wide at stands in a dignified attitude, while Vic-
the base, and 5 feet 7 inches at the top. torj' places the crown upon his brow ;
It took three yesLTs to transport it from Fame surmounts the whole, whUe History
Thebes, and was erected on its present site is occupied recording his deeds a foreign ;
at a cost of .$400,000. A plan of its trans- soldier is in chains, and his arm suspended
portation and erection may be seen in the to a tree. On the facade looking toward
Musee de la INIarine in theLouvre. It the west, the right group represents ''Re-
formerly stood in front of the Temple of sistance:^'' a young man, guided by a Ge~
Thebes, and was erected by the great Se- nius flitting over his head, and surrounded
sostris 1500 years before Christ. Every by his father and his wife holding a dead
Bide is covered with hieroglyphics. Around child in her arms, rushes to the defense of
the square are eight colossal statues repre- his country ; a warrior is falling from his
senting the principal cities of France. On horse, and the Genius is encouraging them
either side of the obelisk stand two beauti- to action. The group on the left repre-
ful fountains, the one dedicated to mari- I sents ^^ Peace :'^ a w.arrior, sheithing his
338
Paris. [FRANC !•:.] Paris.
sword, stands between his wife and chil- the midst is a fountain with four statues
dren, while another is taming a bull for the in bronze of the Seine, the Loire, the Ga-
purpose of agriculture; and the (ienlus of ronne, and the .sdonc, \ty Mr. Klagmaun.
Peace, crowned with laurels, sheds over
them her protecting influence. The last Place du Palais I ourhon. In the centre —
two are bj' M. Etex, who received for the is a marble statue by Feucheres, represent-
work $30,000. Above the arch, on the ing Law. There is a pedestal in front on
northern side, is the Battle of Austerlitz, by which a statue of Louis XVIII. was to be
M. Jecther and on the southern side, the placed, when the Revolution of 1830 broke
;
victories to regenerated Franco. Nearly demolished by the people during the first
all the figures arc portraits. The interior revolution, the base only being saved. In
is ascended by winding staircases, which 180(5 the Emperor Napoleon I. gave orders
lead into several large halls. In one of the ,
for the erection of a triumphal monument
vaults is the following inscription: " (7e in honor ofthe success of the French armies.
monument commence en 1806, en I'h mwiir de The column was of Tuscan order, and copied
la Grande Armee, longtemps interrompu, con- after Trajan's Pillar at Rome. Its height
tinue en 1823 avec line dedicace nouveUe, a e(e was 135 feet in circumference at the base,
;
acheve en 1836 qui Va consacre a 36 feet; the base was about 21 feet high,
la gloire des Armees Franmises.''^ After ;
and 20 square, ascended by an entire wind-
mounting 261 steps we arrive at the top, I ing staircase of 176 stops. The column
from which we have one of the best views was covered with bas-reliefs in bronze, com-
of Paris on one side, and the Bois or Park '
sons into whose hands they had fallen. A : peror crowned Avith laurels it Avas design-
;
the upper part of tlie Obelisk of Luxor in formed by the Rue de I'Arbre Sec and the
Place de la Concorde, and far away west- Rue Saint Honore.
ward, over the beautiful Champs Elj^sees, The Fontaine de la Rue de Crenelle is one
Ave see prominently over all other ob- of the most beautiful in Paris.
jects the celebrated Arc de Triomphe de The Fontaine des Innocents was erected
TEtoile. Nearly south, beyond the Aoaa-- in 1788 in the middle of the former market
ing Seine, avc perceive the classic portico of the Innocents, but has since been re-
of the Chamber stored and placed in a square.
of Deputies, or Legislative
Place ; and in the distance, in the The Fontaine Moliere, constructed in 1844
same [
direction, looms up, in all its majestA^ the by Visconti, at the corner of the Rue Mo-
j
Home of the Hotel des In\^alides and far liere and the Rue Richelieu. There is a
;
-o the southeast Ave see the dome of the statue of Moliere in the centre. 1
i*antheon. the most ele%-ated object in the The Garden of the Tuileries Avas, under
I
The Place du Trone is ornamented Avith the centre or principal avenue is skirted
columns bearing statues of Saint Louis and ;
v.ith groA-es of splendid chestnut, elm,
Philippe Auguste. palm, and lime trees. Immediately in front
Place des Vktoires.r— The buildings which of the palacf^ is tli"^ privite (jarden, Avhich
snrround this place date back to 1686, at used to he accessible only Avhen the court
which time a pedestrian statue of Louis was out of town. It is beautifully laid cut
XIV. was erected by the Duke de la Feu- with rhrubs and llowers. and adorned Avith
illade, AAho raised it at his own expense for statues some are copies of the old masters, :
the purpose of perpetuating liis gratitude and many originals. In the centre of the
3-10 -
PAKI8. [FRANCE.] PARia
garden the fjreat alley^ over 2000 feet
is grand avenue was formed. Maria de
in length, in the axis of which is a vast Medicis purchased nearly all the ground,
basin, from wlience tlie water gracefully since which time it has been continually
spouts to the height of thirty feet. The ^
improving. It was formerly called Le
gard.'U contains many line marble and Grand Cours, but now Avenue des Champ$
bronz.'. statue.-*, among which is the cele- Elysees. Its length is over 1^ miles, ter-
Ijratcd anti(iue group of Laocoon in Ijronzc, minating at the triumphal arch de I'Etoile,
taken from the original in tlie Vatican at half way between which and Place de la
Rome Time carrying away Truth the
; ; Concorde is liond Point : it is a circular
Rape of Cybele by Saturn Apollo Belvi-
; space, with six elegant lateral fountains.
dere in bronze. The entrance to the pri- The avenue has foot-pavements twelve feet
vate garden from the Seine is adorned by wide, laid in bitumen. All the avenues
two bronze lions. As you go toward the are planted with magnificent trees, and
west you ascend a flight of steps, which bordered by walks of the n;ost agreeable
leads to the terrace overlooking the Place aspect. Cast-iron lamp-po.<ts are placed
j
—the Garden, Place de la Concorde, Chjwpj brilliancy of coloring disputes with the
FJi/sies,and Bois de Boulor/ne after he has elegance of decoration, it is enchanting in-
;
ter take a voiture for the two latter. Bois de Boulogne. The A venue du Bois de
! —
—
Garden of the Luxemhour(j. This garden Boulogne extends from the Triumphal Arch
is one of the most beautiful in Paris, and is to the nearest entrance to the park. This
profusely decorated with statues by the best is a magnificent avenue, 130U yds. long and
|
Parisian masters. It is about 3000 feet 100 wide. The gate through which we
I
long by 2000 wide. Nine gates afford ac- pass is called Pjrte Dauphinc. which upliers
'
cess to this beautiful garden, wliich was us into the most splendid i)ark in the world.
first planted by Desbrosses at the time of There is nothing in Europe that can at all
,
the erection of the palace. Gratuitous lee- compare with it every thing that wealth,
\
;
tures are here given by Mr. Hardy, the head taste, and art combined could do for it, has
gardener, on grafting, pruning, and roar- been done, to add to the natural bciiuties
\
give any description of this delightful spot After the capitulation of 1815, Welling-
that would be at all adequate to the occa- ton, with the British troops, encamped in
sion. It is nearly 200 years since the this wood, since which time it has con-
I
341
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
an entirely different appearance since the cate passage leads to the top, where is
equipages and iinest horses of the capital from the forest growth that stretches out
are seen entering the carriage-road which on ever}' hand, the whole of it is the work
winds around the lakes a distance of five of man. I'.very portion is under the eyes
miles. On the largest island is a beautiful and hands of skillful landscape gardeners.
Swiss cottage, which affords excellent re- The roads are most beautifully graded
i
freshments to the hungry and thirsty. the paths diverging from the main ave-
:
You will also find them peering out of nues in most graceful curves the wind- ;
clumps of trees in many portions of the ing ways ornamented with arbors, bowers,
park. The Bois suffered much during the and shrubbery. I
Adjoining the cascade is
late siege, many of the trees having been a first-class restaurant, whose splendid
!
Included within the "Bois" is the Hip- c t}-te,ths resort of the "high life" of Par-
'
jwdrome de Limgckamps^ a race-course con- is. Dozens of wedding breakfasts are or-
taining 150 acres, and granted by the city dered here on Saturday mornings.
to the Jockey Clul) of Paris for 50 years. We now strike into the .i lite Longch amps,
I
The dull has agreed to devote the net pro- and on reaching the point Avhere it crosses
ceeds arising from the letting of places to the Allee de la Reine Marguerite, strike into
:
increasing the stakes to be run fur at the a carriage-wa}' to the right, which leads to
government autumn races. The Hippo- the Pre Catelan, about the centre of the
I
drome is reached by the splendid Al'.ee de park. This is a public garden, frequented
j
Longchamjis, through which the annual by the most respectable people of Paris. It
j
Promenade de Dmrjchamps, which takes is finely laid out in groves, pavilions, Swiss
place in Paris on Wednesday, Thursday, cottages, grass-plots, shady walks a beau-
'
—
and Friday of Passion "Week, passes. There tiful combination of sylvan, rustic, and
are various ways of reaching the Hippo- garden scenery.
drome there are steamers running from
: An afternoon visit should be made to
the Pont de la Concorde, omnil^uses to the Jardin d' Acclimation, reached by pony
Neuilly, and railway to Suresnes. The tramway in 10 minutes from the Porte Mail-
course is one of the liest in tlie country, lot it is the paradise of Paris children.
; ;
bunps, the whole protected by an awning lan was erected by Philippe le Bel, in the 14th
resting on cast-iron pillars, and surmount- century, in memory of a troubadour of that
j
ed by a gabled roof. All the different name whTim he had invited to Paris, and who
stands are divided into compartments for was murdered in this wood by the escort the
the members. The course commands a king had sent to guard him from robbers.
splendid view of the " Bois," near which He inadvertently mentioned to them that
1
is Mr. Rothschild's beautiful villa. he was the bearer of great treasures to the
Near the Hippodrome, and at the termi- king. They imniediatelv resolved to mur-
I
nation of the Allee Longchamps, is situated der him. and executed their diabolical pur-
the Cascade Longchamps, a favorite place of pose on the spot. On searching him, they
resort for all strangers —a craggy, artificial
j
I
found to their mortification that the treas-
mound forty feet high and one hundred and ure spoken of consisted in a few bottles of
eighty wide. Through ths body of the i
very valuable essences. After their return
mound a large current of water issues, and ;
to the palace, they stated that he had failed
fills into a basin bordered with rock. i to come. The wood was searched, and his
There are two small streams winding their ! body found and one of the murderers hav
;
342
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris
ing scented his hair -with the essence, led to minutes past 4 ). In th;; centre of the court
the arrest of the whole party. They con- is a cedar-tree brought from Mount Leba-
fessed the crime, and were exccute<l at the non, in Syria, liy the late duke, and trans-
stalce. The monument is in good repair, planted here b}' his son, the Count de Paris.
considering its age. In 18G5 a beautiful It is surrounded by cypress-trees. A fee
skating -pond, with pavilions, M'as con- of a franc for a party is generally given to
structed in the "Bois," where the elile of the custodian. Tl»e chapel closes at4 o'clock
Paris assemble during the .<ikating season. P.M.
Close by tlie Porte de la Miietle is the Passy
Artesian Well. —
Churclus of Paris. "\Vc shall now give
Returning through the Avenue de Long- the names of the principal churches of
clianips, opposite the Porte Maillot, one of Paris, with a superficial description of each,
the principal entrances to the liois de Bou- as it would be beyond the limits of this
;
logne, is the chapel of St. Ferdinand, the volume to enter into particulars, AVe shall
[
scene of the melancholy death of the Duke connncnce the list with one of the most im-
'
of Orleans, eldest son of Louis Philippe, in portant monuments of the capital, the metro-
1842. 'Ihe duke was on his way to tlie politan church {)i Xolre Dame. '1 he founda-
camp of St. Omar in a light, open carriage, tion of the i)resent church was laid in IIGO
i
when the horses becam unmanagealdo, by Alexander III., Pope of Pome, who had
>
1
the postillion not being able to hold them, at this time taken refuge in France, al-
j
The duke endeavored to get out of the though a church dedicated to St. Stephen
carriage but his feet having become en- had been built on the site of the present
;
tangled in his cloak, he was thrown to the cathedral as early as the time of Valen-
ground, and his head dreadfully fractured. tiniaii I. (A.D. 36.5). The west front was
He was conveyed to the house of a grocer, finished during the reign of Philip Au-
where, at 7 o'clock the same day, he gustus, 1228 ; and the southern transept
breathed his last. An elegant chapel was during the reign (f St. Louis, 1267. The
erected on the spot, 50 feet long by 20 high, whole was finished in the year 1420, being
in the Gothic style. The windows are of nearly 300 years after its commencement.
beautiful stained irlass, three of them rep- 1 his cathedral suffered mucli at the hands
resenting Faith, Hope, and Charity. 'J he (^f the mob during the Revolution, but was
rest represent the patron saints of the dif- completely repaired preparatory to the coro-
ferent members of the royal family. On nation of Napoleon I., and also at the Res-
the higli altar is a '•Descent from the Cross'' toration. The beautiful facade is sur-
in marble. On the left is an altar conse- mounted by two large square towers 80 feet
crated to St. Ferdinand, and on the right is high, which are ascended by a staircase in
the group representing the prince on his the northern tower. One of tiie best views
death-bed part of the group was the work of Paris may be obtained from these towers.
;
of his deceased sister, the Princess ^larij. In the southern one is the famous '''Bour-
Descending a few steps behind the altar uf don" bell, which weighs 32,000 pounds, and
the Virgin, you enter the very room in requires eight strong men to ring it. which
which the prince died. Opposite the door event only takes ]>lace on very solemn oc-
is a beautiful picture representing the casions. The length of the church is 390
death-bed scene the figures are the size of feet; height of tlie towers from the floor,
;
life. Among the persons represented are 204 feet ;\vidth, 144 feet. 1 he roof, rising
his father and mother, his brothers, the 30 feet above the vaulting, is 3.')G feet long
Dukes of ^lontpensier and Aumale (Prince and 37 wide it is entirely covered with
;
de Joinville was then at Xap.les\ the Prin- lead, weighing over 400,000 pounds. The
cess Clementine. Marshals Gerard and interior is magnificent. The arches have
Soult; his wife, the Duchess of Orleans, double entrances, and are sej>arated by two
was absent at Kageres. Service is per- ranges of pillars, surrounded on both sides
formed, and the officiating priest resides in with long galleries embellished with col-
one of the rooms of the chapel. umns. Behind the high altar, which is
There are two clocks here, one represent- very magnificent, stands Couston's cele-
ing the time the duke fell (10 minutes to brated marble group, the Descent from the
li). the other the time of his death (10 Cross. The group consists of four figures,
343
Paris. [FRANCE.] PaeiSw
1 he expression given to the face of the Z'/ic Savior driving the Money-chanaers
Savior is peculiarlv noble and touching. from the Temple; his Blessing the Infants;
Some of the pictures in the interior of the his Delivering the Keys to Saint Peter.
choir are considered very fine. In the There is a beautiful piece of sculpture, the
j
chapel of the Virgin there is a fine statue Infant Jesus in the Manger ; also the Bap-
'
considered as belonging to the richest par- 1813, ending with his abdication, interrupt-
'
ish in Paris, the worshipers here being the ed its progress. In 1815 Louis XVIII. or-
most fashionable and wealthy. It was dered it to be converted into a chapel in
commenced in 1653, the corner-stone hav- honor of Louis XVI. and his consort Maria
ing been laid l)y Anne of Austria and her Antoinette. The Revolution of July pre-
son, Louis XIV., but Avas not finished until |
vented this being can-ied into effect. Un-
a century later. The facade consists of der the reign of Louis Philippe this proud
two ranges of Corinthian and Doric col- '
importance. From here the unfortunate whole length of the facade. It is sur-
Marie Antoinette was led to execution rounded by 52 Corinthian columns, 49 feet
here it was that Bonaparte leveled his can- '
church were forced open at diflTerent times the construction of the edifice. The doora
by the populace, for the purpose of inter- are of bronze, and are the largest in the
ring the bodies of Miles. Chamerois, Du- |
world, next to St. Peter's at Rome. In
chenois, and Rancourt in the body of the the walls are niches containing statues of
cliurch. They belonged to the stage, and 32 different subjects. The interior is hand-
the clergy opposed their burial here but
; somely decorated Avith sculpture, gilt, and
the people insisted, broke down the doors, marlde. The paintings have been execu-
and carried their point. The interior archi- ted liy artists of the greatest merit. The
tecture of the church is entirely Doric its ; church is lighted by three cupolas, resting
length is 400 feet, and is most profusely ,
on arches supported by fluted Corinthian
decorated is ricli in sculpture and paint-
; columns. Around the choir are numerous
ings. The pictures most wortliv of remark i
chapels, each of which contains a statue of
3H
Parts^ [FRANCE.] PARia
its patron saint. The lii.^h altar is beau- ed in fresco, illustrating the life of the Vir-
I
tifully sculptured hy Marochetti. The gin, The high altar is supported by Co-
principal group represents the ISIagdalen rintliiau cohnnns, with brunze bases and
borne to Heaven on the wings of angels. capitals. The choir is fitted up in stalls,
The principal painting on the ceiling is by the dome of which is decorated Avith figures
Zeigler, and represents the establishment of the four Evangelists, by Delorme, and
and progress of Christianit}' since the death the Avail by Heim and Drilling the Pre- —
of the Savior. The Magdalen is borne sentation in the Temple^ and Jesus in the
before the throne of God, suiTounded l)y a Temple. Near the entrance is a beautiful
vast multitude of mortals who were instru- bas-relief of the Virgin and infant Christ,
mental in propagating the Christian relig- adored by angels. Many strangers visit
ion, among which are Constantine, St. Lou- this church for the purpo.se of listening to
is, Peter the Hermit, Richard Coeur de the singing. Avhich is remarkably good.
Lion, Godfrey de Bouillon, Dandolo, "the Church cf St.Eustache. This is a bold —
blind old Doge of Venice," Clotilde, queen and majestic edifice, but there is little uni-
of France, Joan of Arc, Raphael, Michael formity existing in its style of architec-
Angelo, Louis XIIL, and Richelieu. The ture, which is partly owing to the length
last group is Napoleon receiving the impe- of time elapsing betAveen its commence-
rial crown from Pope Pius YIL The wliole ment and completion (over 200 years). The
cost of this magnificent structure was about interior of the church, Avhich is of a cruci-
^2, 500,000. form shape, is beautifully sculptured. The
roof of the nave is supported by ten col-
umns of more than KjO feet in height.
The stained-glass AvindoAvs produce a A-cry
good effect. There is a beautiful organ
over the entrance, Avhich cost some $14,000.
The high altar is of pure Avhite marble, and
beautifully sculptured. There arc a large
number of \-ery beautiful paintings in this
church.
Proceeding eastward, along Boulevard Church of St. Germain I'A uxerrois, in
de la Madeleine, Ave arrive at Rue de la front of the colonnade of the old Louvro.
Paix, on the riglit, which runs from the founded on this spot by Childebort ])il- ;
Boulevard des Capucines to Place Yen- laged and dcA-astatod by the Normans in
dome. The continuation of this street is 88(5, During the residence of the royal
Rue Castiglione, Avhich brings you out on family in the Louvre it Avas always consid-
Rue Rivoli, opposite the garden of theTuil- ered the royal parish church. King Robert
eries. On Rue de la Paix are situated the rebuilt it in •JS»8 it Avas again rebuilt by
;
—
Church of Notre Dame de Lorette. This tion of 1^31, Avhilc the funeral services
i
church was commenced in 1823 and finish- Avere being iierformed in commemoration
'
cd in 1837. Mr. Lebas was its architect. of the Duke de Berri, a tumult arose in the
I
If not the richest, it is the most sumptuous- church, and it was completely dcA-astated;
!
ly ornamented church in Paris in fact, it the mob Avas Avith great difiiculty prevent-
'
more' resembles a museum than a place of ed from tearing it doAvn. The Avhole of
worship. It is situated in an elegant and the decorations of this church are grand
gay quarter of the city, and is mostly vis- and majestic, its works of art chaste and
ited by persons whose principal motive in numerous. It was from the belfry of this
going there seems to be the display of their church the fatal signal Avas given for the
attire. Its length is 20-4 feet l)y 90 wide. commencement ofthe horrible massacre of
'
the Archbishop of Paris refusing to allow al, so fine an appearance. The interior of
two towers of the same description on any the dome represents Paradise, and was
but the metropolitan church. On the painted b}^ Mignard. The figures are over
northern and highest tower is the telegraph 200 in number, and many of them seven-
corresponding with Strasburg, and on the teen feet in height. It is considered the
southern is that for Italy. This splendid finest fresco in the world. A small con-
structure is 432 feet long, 174 broad, and fessional near the high altar was the one
95 high. The principal entrance is tlank- used b}"" Mademoiselle de la Valliere pre-
ed with statues of Saints Peter and Paul. vious to her taking the voavs. From win-
The interior decorations of St. Sulpice are dow's in the passage adjoining may be seen
in perfect keeping with its exterior beauty. the house she occupied at the time. The
The organ is most magnificentl)^ carved, military attendant will show you the cas-
and is considered the finest in Paris. It ket where the hearts of the Bourbon fam-
represents King David and fifteen other ily were formerh' preserved. Anne of
figures playing on musical instruments or Austria, having bequeathed her heart to
bearing cornucopias. The church contains this church, was the origin of the custom.
22 beautiful chapels, wherein arc many The remains of Queen Henrietta, wife of
fine paintings. The principal is the Lady Charles I., king of England, were depos-
Ch:ipel behind the choir. It is incrusted ited here. The church is adorned with
with white marble, and decorated with frescoes and statues, the style of its dec-
most magnificent gilding and sculpture. orations being purely Corinthian. Visit-
The dome is painted in fresco, representing ors are admitted everv'' day. A small fee
the Ascension, and the walls the Annunci- is expected by the military guide.
ation, Visitation, Birth, and Presentation. —
Church of St. Etienne du Mont. This is
A meridian line possessing the twelve signs one of the oldest churches in Paris, built
of the zodiac has been traced on the pave- in the reign of Clovis. It has been en-
ment of the transept. It is continued larged several times. Its stained-glass
along an obelisk of white marble. Its ob- windows are deserving of particular notice.
ject is to fix the spring equinox. In front It contains many valuable works of art.
of the church is the Fountain ofiSt. Sulpice, The festival of St. Genevieve (who was
erected b}' order of Napoleon I., around originalh' buried here) takes place on the
which a flower-market is held on Mondays 3d of January, and the ceremonies which
and Thursdays. are performed then and for eight days after-
Church duVal de Grace and Hupital Mil- ward arc very interesting. In 1857 the
itaire, in Itue St. Jacques. — This church Archbishop of Paris was here assassinated
was formerly a convent for nuns, which by a priest in presence of an immense crowd.
was founded by Anne of Austria in 1621. The murderer was condemned and execu-
Having been married to Louis XIII. thirty- ted twent^'-seven days after. Its pictures
two years without issue, she made a vow and ornaments are very valuable. It has
that if her desire to give an heir to the lately been repaired at a cost of $400,000.
throne of France should be realized, she Some of the greatest persons in France
would build a church at Yal de Grace, have been buried here among others, Ra-
;
She afterward gave birth to Louis XIV. cine, Rollin, Lesueur, and Pascal.
In 1G45 the first stone of the church was Church of St. Vincent de Paul, Place La-
laid with great pomp. —
In the court is the fayette. This beautiful church is entirely
bronze statue of BaronLarrey, Napoleon I.'s modern the foundation stone was laid in
:
surgeon-in-chief, to whom he left $20,000. 1824, and the whole structure completed
He is represented leaning against a gun, in twenty years. The church is raised
34G
Paris. [FRANCE.] Parisl
cent de Paul at his feet, surrounded by an- to the ground in 1883. The foUoAving is a
gels. The place in front of this church description of its former appearance.
was the scene of a bloody conflict between Napoleon I. conceiA'ed the design of con-
the populace and soldiers in 18-18. necting the Tuileries Avith the old Lou\^re,
Church of Notre Dame des Victoires, or leaving it to his nepheAV to consummate
des Petits Peres, in Place des Petits Peres. that noble Avork. In 1848 the Provisional
—Founded in 1629 by Louis XIII. There GoA'crnment signed a decree to commence
are several very richly-sculptured chapels, operations but it Avas not until 1852 that
;
in one of Avhich is the monument of Lulli, the present emperor decreed fiA'c million
the celebrated composer. There are a dollars for the purpose. The name of
number of very fine paintings in the choir. Tuileries is derived from the fact that all
The order of architecture is Ionic. Dur- the tiles (tidies) used in Paris Avere form-
in the Revolution of 1789 this church was erh' manufactured on its site. The cele-
used as an exchange. brated personages Avho have inhabited this
—
The Sainle Chapelle. This splendid palace, and the political events that have
building was begun in 1245, under the occurred there, make it a most remarkable
reign of St. Louis. It is 139 feet high ;
place, and one to Avhich Ave should devote
its length 118 foet, and breadth 55 feet. some little space. In l.')(;4, that cruel and
The roof is surmounted by a loft}- spire, pertidious princess, Catharine de Medicis,
10,s feet in hciglit, richly gilt, and adorned purchased the ground and connncnced the
at the base with statues of the twelve present palace. Philibert Delormc was
apostles, cast in zinc. Tlie interior con- the architect. It Avas much improved
sists of a nave and semicircular choir, be- under Louis XIII. and XIV. Here, in
ing 108 feet long by 34 feet wide. It is 1572, the Avicked founder of this palace
most beautifulh' painted in blue and red gaA-e a fete. A fpAv days Jiefore the mas-
diagonals, diamonds, etc., interspersed sacre of St. Barthelomy there Avas an alle-
with lleurs de lys. In the nave is a small gorical representation, in Avhich all the
door leading to a chamber called the Ora- nobilitA", (^atliolics and Protestants, Averc
toire de Louis IX., from which this mon- actors. During the performance, the King
347
Paris. [FRANCE.] PARia
of Xavarre and other Huguenots Tying out his designs. It was left for
-were pre-
vented by Charles IX. and his brothers Napoleon III. to fmish this stupendous
from entering Paradise they were pushed undertaking, and we see in Avhat a re-
:
into hell, and kept there some time. This markably short space of time this colos-
was very significant, for four days after sal work was completed. From the court
the horrible massacre took place, the Avhole behind the palace of the Tuileries we
having been arranged before the fete and enter into the Place du Carrousel. It
;
there, amid the charms of music and was here that Louis XIV. gave that
dancing, 100,000 souls were sent unpre- splendid tournament in 1612, which was
pared to meet their Maker. It is horrible attended by guests from all parts of the
to think that a -woman «ould imagine and civilized world. It was here also that
coolly prepare a ballet on the massacre, Napoleon reviewed that magnificent but
arranged beforehand, of part of the nation ill-fated army previous to their departure
over which she reigned. Louis XIV. re- on the Russian campaign. There are four
sided here until the completion of Ver- principal issues from this place, two on
sailles. It was then occupied by families Rue de Rivoli and two on the Quai du Lou-
of persons attached to the court until the vre. This place is separated from the
return of Louis XIV. This palace is a court by an elegant railing, with thre. en-
landmark on every page of the revolutions trances two are adorned with statues.
;
of Paris. In June, 1792, the mob en- Before the central one is the Triumphjl
tered it in August of the same vear the
;
Arch erected by Napoleon I. in 1806 at a
Swiss Guard were murdered in it. It cost of nearly 8300,000. During the first
was the official residence of the First Con- empire it Avas crowned by four antique
sul also of the imperial court.
;
After the horses from the Piazza St. Mark at Venice.
Restoration, King Charles X. and the roy- They were restored by the Allies in 1815 ;
al family resided there. The mob entered and in 1828 the present chariot Avith four
it again in 1830, and drove out the king. horses was executed by Bosio. Inteiior
It Avas the residence of Louis Philippe of the Tuileries Avas open to A'isitors, in
until the Revolution of 1848, when a party the absence of the court, by permission
of rioters, in company with some loose from the adjutant -general of the palace.
girls, occupied the apartments for ten The folloAving is the usual style of the let-
days. They turned the king's and queen's ter to be Avritten for permission to visit
bedrooms into dining-rooms. Ever}' thing public palaces
they could lay their hands on they made M -^NSiEUR i.E MixiSTRE (or M. Ic Di-
subsers-ient to their celebrating their
Avill,
recteu,, according to the functions of the
orgies night and day most magnifi-
in the
party addressed). J'osca-ous demanderla
cent apartments of the palace. In 1849
faveur de m'accorder un pemiis pour vis-
it Avas occupied as a gallery for the exhi-
iter, moi et ma famille (insert the names
bition of paintings. Under the Empire of the places). J'ai Lhonneur d'etre. Mon-
it was the city residence of the imperial
sieur, votre tres humble serviteur (si^n
family. The fa9ade facing the garden of name and address).
the Tuileries Avas about 1000 feet in length,
running from Rue Rivoli to the Seine. If the Avriter does not receive an an-
The style of architecture is mixed. The swer message within tAvo or three
to this
first or loA\-er floor columns are Ionic, the days, he Avill do Avell to call at the proper
second Corinthian, the third Composite, office, or apply at the office of the hotel.
At the extreme of this facade stood two The southern wing of the Tuileries Avas
lofty pavilions, with remarkably high roofs fitted up for the Empress Eugenie. These
and chimneys. The one on Rue de Rivoli apartments Avere formerly occupied ly
called Paiillon Marsan, the one toward Louis Philippe, Madame Adelaide, and the
the Seine Pavilion de Flore. Napoleon I. Prince and Princess de Joinville. The
conceiA'ed the idea of uniting the palace northern wing and Pavilion Marsan were
of the Tuileries with that of the Louvre, occupied by the Duke and Duchess de Ne-
which stood parallel Avith it at over one mours, Duke and Duchess Montpensier,
quarter of a mile distant but political
; Duke and Duchess d'Aumale, Duke and
CA-ents transpired which prcA-ented his cai- Duchess of Orleans, and Count de Paris,
348
Rue de Rivoli
Seine
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
and the state apartments, as we before said, Colonnade du Louvre, is considered one of
only in the absence of the emperor. The the chefs -d'cEuvre of the age of Louis
entrance to these apartments was up the XIV., under whom it was erected. It is
EFcalier dc la Chapelle, which gave access composed of 28 double Corinthian ocdumns.
to the antcchaml)er. The antique ceiling The facade is 525 feet in length. The
of this apartment formerlv decorated the magnificent gateway in the centre pro-
sleeping-apartment of La Rcine Blanche, ,
duces a grand effect. The gates are of
and was brought frum Vincennes. To bronze, and were made by the order of
the left of this apartment was the theatre, \
Napoleon. On the site of the fjresent pal-
ufcd as a supper-room on ball-nights, ca- i ace formerly stood the hunting-seat of
pable of accommodating 800 persons. Op- Dagobert. Under Philip Augustus there
posite this, on the ground tloor, was the stood on the same spot a castle to defend
date chapel. Next in order stood the i the river, in the centre of which rose the
Salle de la Paix. This magnificent hall |
famous Tower of the Louvre, which was used
was used as a ball-room. Over the man- as a state prison, and several persons of
tel-piece was a splendid equestrian portrait i
rank were confined there under Charles
of the emperor, by Muller. In the hall ]
VII. and Louis XI. Francis I. commenced
was the silver statue of Peace, presented the present buildings. It was from the
j
to Napoleon I. by the city of Paris after southern window of the eastern front that
the treaty of Amiens. Next came the i
Charles IX. fired on the victims of St. Bar-
Salle des Marichaux, the finest of the suite. \
thelemy. Louis XIV. having been divert-
This was also used as a ball-room on state ed from the Louvre to the building of
occasions. The walls were gold and white Versailles, it remained unfinished until
— the furniture gi-een silk, damt:sk, and 1805, when Napoleon had it completed.
gold. The names of the great battles of The design of the palace is a perfect square,
Napoleon I. were inscribed over the gal- being over 500 feet on each side. Its court
ler}', and the busts of all his distinguished is one of the most beautifully decorated in
generals, and portraits of many of them, Europe. The order of the four facades is
adorned the walls. The next apartment principally Corinthian or Composite. It is
was the Salle Blanche, or card-room the ; brilliantly lighted at night with 24 bronze
Salon d'Apollon, and then the Salle du gas-lamps. This palace has been inhabited
Trone. The hangings were of dark red by many persons of great historic celebri-
velvet, embroidered with gold ; the car- tv, among whom were Henrv III., Henrv
pet, of Gobelins manufacture, cost nearly IV., Louis XIII., Louis XIV.", Charles ix!,
§100,000; the throne stood opposite the and Henrietta, widow of Charles L, of En-
windows, over w hich w as a canopy of red gland. Part of the New Louvre is occupied
velvet, embroidered with bees in gold. as offices by the Counsel of State. Here
Next was the Salon Louis XIV., which is also the library of the Louvre, contain-
contained the following pictures Louis : ing some 90,000 volumes. This was for-
XIV. presenting his grandson, Philip V., merly the private library of Louis Philippe.
to the grandees of Spain ;his full-length Some idea of the extent of the palace may
portrait in his seventieth year ; and also be had when we inform our readers that it
his portrait as a child, together with that covers over sixty acres of ground.
of Anne of Austria and the Duke of Or-
leans. Next to this was the Gallery de
Diner, or dining-room on state occasions.
Behind these were the private apartments
of the emperor, but these were not shown.
The ruins of the Tuileries were pulled down
in 1883, and a 12 years' eyesore obliterated.
The Old Louvre, w iiich had recently been
connected with the Tuileries by the X(W
Louvre, is considered, in an architectural
349
Paris. [FRANCE."] Paris.
a theitre capable of holding 3000 specta- called Palais d'Orleans. It afterward pass-
tors. Here th3 cardinal took great pride ed through the hands of Duchess of Mont-
350|
Paris. [FKAXCE.] Paris.
penPier,DiuhcssofGiiiseandAlcnoon.I.ou- ,
The Gallery of Modem Art, which is en-
is XIV., then Duchess of Brunswick, then tercel at the foutheastern pavilion in the
Madame (VOrleans, queen do w;iger of .Si)ain, I court, was founded by order of Maria de
then Count of Provence, afterward king Medici?, and formerly contained the 24 pic-
Louis XVI II., who occupied it up to 1701. j
tures by Rubens now in tlie Louvre, wl)ich
In 1795 the sittings of the Directory were allegorically represented the history of tliat
held here; it was afterward occupied by the queen. It now contains the finest works
Consul and Senate. In 1848 Louis Blanc of living artiste. It is unnecessary to give
resided and held his socialist meetintrs here, the name of any leading work of art in
The palace forms a regular square. In the thcse rooms, as it is liable at any moment
centre of the facade Rue de Tournon is a to be removed to the Louvre. As none
beautiful pavilion surmounted b}' a cupola ,
but pictures of deceased artists are admit-
and ornamented with statues. The front ted there, and those of living artists hero,
|
facing the garden presents three main build- they are lial)le to a removal to the Louvre
ings connected by two galleries, or.c of which ten years after the death of an artist. The
is nowdecorated with the pictures of the officers of the Senate intiuiiited to that body
firstliving artists. The Sulle dn Sinat, in 1880 that these pictures must be removed,
where the Senate holds its sittings is a all the room being required by that body.
semicircular hall of 90 feet in diameter
the seats gradually rise from the floor to-
ward the wall. The ceiling is beautifully
decorated with allegorical pictures of Pa- The Palace of the Chamber of Deputies,
triotism, Wisdom, Justice, and Law. The formerly the Palace Bourbon, stands on the
j
Salle du Trone is a gorgeous saloon, mag-| other side of the Seine. Tliis palace was
nificently sculptured and gilded. On a erected in 1722 by Louise, duchess dowager
platform situated at the centre of the wall| of Bourbon; it subsequently became the
to the right stood the throne, ascended by ptopcrty of the Prince of Conde, who en-
I
four stops, covered with a canopy, and rich- larged it at an expense of $4,000,000. In
ly gilded. The principal pictures in this 1795 it was selected for the meetings of the
hall arc by Hesse: Napoleon I. at the In- Council of "Five Hundred." During the
validcs. Napoleon I. inspecting the forty first empire it was occupied by the Corps
Flags taken at Austerlitz. On the other Legislatif. After the Restoration, it wi
de, the return of tlic Pope to Rome in again taken possession of by the Prince of
!
184!', Napoleon III. visiting the New Lou- Condc, and the part that had been occupied
vre, the Distribution of the Eagles in the by the Corps Legislatif was appropriated
Champ de Mars in 1852. to the use of the Chamber of Deputies. In
Adjoining the Salle du Trone is the Cab- 1848 the National Assembly took posses-
ir.et de V Empereur, Avhich contains two or sion of it. The principal entrance, w hich
three very good modern paintings The is very elegant, is on Rue do I'Universitc;
:
marriage of Napoleon III. and the Empress its lofty gateway is jdaced in the centre of
Eugenic, Napoleon I. signing the Peace of a Corinthian colonnade, terminating with
Campo Formio, Napcdeon III. returning two fine pavilions. The palace has several
from St. Cloud. The library of the palace courts, surrounded hy liandsome buildings,
is very complete, and contains over 40,000 where reside the different officials of the
volumes it is not open to tlie public, but Legislative Body. The facade, built in
;
n stranger may obtain admission by produ- 1804, is remarkalde for its majestic portico,
cing his passport. In the bcdchamlicr of ornamented with twelve Corinthian col
Maria de Mcdicis, which is splendidly fur- umns resting on a broad flight of thirt7
nished, there are some fine works of art l)v steps. The pediment is adorned with a
Rubens, Poussin, and Philippe de Ciiam- large number of allegorical figures. At
j
pagne. The chapel is small, but richly [the foot of the steps are colossal statues of
gilded, aivl contains some very good paint [Prudence and Justice. It is now occupied
ings. Back of the altar, in a very conspic in part by the President of the Chamber
uous jdace, is a painting by one of our coun
trymen, :M. Simon White the subject is
:
After having passed through several
I
351
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
iag?, we
enter the Legislative Hall. It is stone and iron, with a glass roof. Its length
semicircular, like the Hall of Kepresenta- is nearly 700 feet, and width 170. The
tives at V/ashingtoii, except that there is whole design of the interior is very simple.
no lobby behind the speaker's chair, ^shich The French Salon, an annual exhibition
is situated in the centre of the semicircle. of the works of living artists, is held here
The seats rise rapidly in amphitheatre form in the spring, and the Concours Ilippique
to the back range, wliich rests against the (horse-show) later. The Electi-idty Exhibi-
wall at an elevation of ten feet. It is tion was held late in 1881, at which Mr.
adorned with a colonnade and tribunes for Edison reaped the most honor.
the Corps Diplomatique and public. There —
Palais du Quai d'Orsay. This magnifi-
arc also tribunes erected for private use. cent edifice was begun during the reign of
February 24, 1848, while Louis Philippe Napoleon I., but was not completed until
was hastening toward St. Cloud, the the time of Louis Philippe. It was set on
Duchess of Orleans appeared in this hall fire and destroyed at the fall of the Com-
with her two sons, the Count de Paris mune (May 24,*1871). The front, facing the
and Duke de Chartres, having traversed Rue de Lille, contained the chief entrances
from the Tuileries on foot, and, taking a of the Conseil d'Etat and the Cour des
seat in an ami-chair, with her sons on ci- Comptes. The loss of the Salh des Pas Per-
ther side, demanded through M. Dupin dus, a large square apartment, in which four
that her eldest son, the Count de Paris, be Doric columns, with spiral flutes, supported
proclaimed King of the French under her a gallery opening into a vestibule in the
own regency. M. Lamartine opposed it, upper story, and the destruction of several
wishing the discussion to be carried on valuable paintings, are much to be deplored.
witlKuit the presence of any of the mem- Palais de la Ugion d^ Honneiir was built
bers of the royal family. The tumult out- in 178G, by the architect Rousseau, for the
side was now immense, and the duchess, Prince of Salm, but was bought by the gov-
with the Duchess of Montpensier and Ne- ernment in 1830. The entrance is in the
mours, tried to escape, but it was impossi- form of a triumphal arch of Ionic order,
ble. The duchess now attempted to speak, flanked by a colonnade of the same kind.
but was silenced by a crowd of armed men The front is decorated Avith six Corinthian
who now rushed in. During the melee, columns, forming a portico, on which is an
she and the princess made their escape to inscription, Honneur et Pairie. This pal-
the Hotel des Invalides, and next morning ace, destroyed during the Commune, has
left Paris. The library- of the palace con- been rebuilt by subscriptions from mem-
tains G5,000 volumes to obtain permission, bers of the Order of the Legion of Honor.
;
Vln^itut contains about 6:),000 volumes, of which the largest bell weighs 5000 lbs.
I
SaUe des Seanres is adorned b}-- st.itues of by the President and the Municipal Coun-
IJacine, Corneille, Moliere, Lafontnine, Pa- cil; it will not be finished before June,
get, and Poussin. Along the walls there 1883.
are benches for the public, those in the cen- The Banqiie de France, in the Rue de la
tre being reserved for reporters. To ob- was founded in 1803, and since
Vrilliere,
tain tickets of admission to the annual meet- the year 1848 it is the only bank allowed
ings, the application should be made at to issue not 's. Tire capital of the bank is
least one month beforehand. 182,500,000 fr. The building was formerly
llOtelde Ville. Burned during the Com- the hotel of the Duke de la Vrilliere, but
nuine rebuilt in 1882-3.
; It was erected during the Revolution it was occupied by
for theaccommodation of the municipality the descendants of the Count de Toulouse,
of Paris at a cost of over 83,000,000. It one of whom was the Princesse de Lam-
was commenced in 1533, and completed in balle, Many of the original paintings and
IGOo. Tiie Hotel de Ville possesses great decorati(ms remain in the rooms. The
interest on account of the numerous histor- vaults are of enormous extent, and on any
ical events of Avhich it has been the theatre.alarm of fire or robbery they can instant-
Here was to be seen the window from which ly be flooded.
Lafayette presented Louis Philippe to the La Bourse, or the Exchange, This su- —
people the room, also, in
;
which Louis XVI. perb structure, which is built in the same
spoke to the populace crowned with the cap style as the Madeleine, was erected on the
j
of liberty; the room where Robespierre site of the Convent des Filles St, Thomas,
I
attempted to commit suicide. One of the and finished in 182G, Its length is 212
three courts that comprised this cditico was feet by 126
I
363
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
attic. There are four statues placed at the marble, by Canova. By a law of France,
corners of the edifice, representing Com- every jeweler is obliged to have his silver
merce, Industry, Agriculture, and Naviga- and gold stamped and assaj-ed in this oflice
tion. The hall, called the Salle de Bourse, before offering it for sale. The laboratory
is IIG feet long by 76 broad: here the mer- of the hotel, where the operation of coining
chants and stock-brokers meet from 12 to 3 for the whole of France takes place, is well
o'clock to negotiate the sale of stocks, and worth a visit. All the machinery of the
from 3 to 5J P.M. for other business. The establishment is worked by two steam-en-
floor of this hall is capable of holding 2000 gines of 32 horse-power. There are eleven
people. Travelers should never fail to visit difterent machines two for small coin,
:
the Bourse during business hours the ex- two for two-franc pieces, six for five-franc
;
citement, noise, tumult, and confusion are pieces, and one for gold. When they are all
beyond description. Ladies are not now in operation they produce about $300,000
admitted except by permission of the Coni- per day. The operation of coining silrer
missaire de la Bourse. The entrance fee ma}' be witnessed by the visitor, but not
Avae formerly one franc. It was found the coining of gold, on account of the par-
that the mode of selling stock excited such ticles which are continually dropping on
a passion for gambling in the minds of the the floor ; thev are all swept up and refined
people, that it was deemed prudent to refuse again. To visit the laboratory', apply in
them admittance during business hours. writing to M. le President de la Commis-
Mint, or Hoiel d:s Monnaies, situated on saire des ]Monnaies ; but the museum is
the Quai de Conti. — This superb building, opsn to visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays,
constructed between the years 1771 and from 12 to 3, without a ticket.
1775, on the site of the Hotel Conti, is one Manufacture Nationak des Gobeli/is et de
—
of the most remarkable structures in the la Savonnerie. This factory, founded l)y
capital. The principal front is 350 feet in Jean Gobelin in 1450, was for a long time
length and 80 in height. It has three sto- a private establishment, but in 1GG2 it pass-
ries. On the ground floor are five arcades, ed into the hands of the government. The
supporting six Ionic columns crowned with car}>ets made here are imrivaled for the
an entablature, and ornamented with six fineness and strength of their texture and
statues of Peace, Abundance, Trade, Pow- brilliancy of the colors. Its productions
er, Prudence, and LaAv. The vestibule is are destined chiefly for palaces of tlie state
adorned with fluted Doric columns. On and presents to foreign governments.
the right is the magnificent staircase, like- Many of them cost as much as $30,000,
wise adorned with Doric columns. Ascend- and require over ten years of time to man-
ing the staircase, we enter an antechamber ufacture. There was one made for the pal-
which contains the coining machine in- ace of the Louvre 1 300 feet in length. The
vented by Thouvelin, from which Me pass closeness with wliich the workmen rival
into the splendid saloon entitled Musk the painter's art is truly wonderful. Three
Monetaire, possessing the most complete large rooms are open for the exhibition of
collection of medals since the reign of beautiful specimens of the Avork executed
Francis I. medals of Mary, Queen of Scots, in the last 200 years.
: There are (J work-
Louis XII., Henry YIIL, Cardinal Pdche- shops containing 25 looms. It is absolutely
liau ; medal commemorating the taking of necessary to bring A'our passport to secure
Sebastopol Queen Victoria's visit to Par- admittance.
;
The shops and exhilntion
is; visit of the French National Guard rooms are open from 2 to 4 on WednesdaA'-s
to London in 1848 ; the proclamation of and Saturdays. A
portion of the building
the Empire ; the marriage of Napoleon Avas destroyed during the Commune, May,
III. ; medals of Victor Emmanuel, Kos- 1871. Another stato carpet manufactory
suth, Queen Isabella of Spain, and numer- Avas transferred to the Gobelins in 182G,
ous others of equal notoriety. In the Salle called La Savonnarii, from having been
Napoleon are all medals struck under the formerly carried on in an ol I soap f icbiry.
,
354
Paris. [FRANCE.] Pauih
Imprimerie Rationale, or the Govemmont 1900 persons employed here, of whom 1500
—
Printing Office. In the year 1552 Francis are women, 400 men and boys. The wom-
I. ostuljlished a royal press in the Louvre, en are chiefly employed in cigar-making.
which, after several changes, was linally The whole process may be seen, from the
transferred, in the vQnr 1809, to the build- stripping of the leaves to the final produc-
ing it now occupies. This liotel was the tion.
property of the notorious Cardinal de Ifo- des Pastes, or General Post-ofHce,
}I<^fel
han, whose intrigues cast so nuic.'i odium in thf Ikue Jean .Jacques Kousseau, was
on the unhappy ^Marie Antoinette. Tliis built by the Duke d'Epernon, and torn
is one of the nu.-st complete estal)lishments down and rel.-uilt in 1883. The central
in Europe. There are about 1000 persons hall, the sorting-room on the first floor, and
employed here, among whom 300 are wom- the van court arc well worth a visit.
en, and every thing, from the casting of Entrepot des (jlaces, in the Rue St. Den-
the type to the binding, is done in this es- j
is, 212, is a large ])late-glass warehouse, bc-
thrown off daily. The printing of tlie ace Cirey, near La Fere, polished at Chauny,
of clubs, of the kings, queens, and knaves ! and silvered at this depot. The process of
of cards, is a government monopoly in silvering may be seen an}' day from 9 to
I
— Sevres, two leagues west of Paris, is pret- the pavement there is a composition in re-
tily situated on the Seine, and is one of the lief liy David, representing France dispen-
most ancient villages near the metropolis. sing honors to her great men, who have
It is celebrated for its magnificent Porce- honored and illustrated her by their tal-
lain Manufactorji, belonging to the govern- ents, virtue, and courage. At tiie feet of
ment, which will soon be transferred to France are seated History and Liberty, re-
the Park of Si. Cloud. Louis XV. bought cording their names, and wearing crowns
this establishmer.t in 1759, at the solicita- to reward them. The dimensions of the
tion of jMadams de Pompadour, and since building are, length, 302 feet broadth, 255
;
then it has belonged to the state. The es- feet; height from the pavement to the top
tablishment consists of the show-rooms or of the dome, 270 feet. Tlie interior con-
magasins, the museum, and the laborato- sists of four naves, surmoimt?d by the
ries or ateliers; these last, however, are dome, and separated by a range of 130
not shown without special leave, which fluted Corinthian columns. The ceilings,
must be obtained by a letter to the dircc- which are richly sculptured, are 80 feet
teiir. frcm the pavement; the dome is splendid-
—
Manufacture des Tahacs. The manufac- ly ]>ainted b}- Gros, for which he received
ture of tobacco, in any form, is a govern- $20,000, and was knighted by Charles X.
ment monopoly in France. There are on his first visit to the church. The nave
aliout 10 different manufactories through- and transepts are decorated with copies of
out the kingdom, but the one in Paris the frescoes of Michael Angelo and Ra-
works up one third of the tobacco bought ])hael in the Vatican at Rome. Many per-
by the government from the tobacco-grow- sons of great celebrity have been buried
ers. All tobacco imported must also bo iiere, among others Voltaire, Rousseau,
sold to the government. 'J'here ere about Marshal Lannes, the Duke de Monteb^lloi
355
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
government, and the body of Marat was ''Qui scit frenare linguam, sensumque domare,
thrown into a common sewer in the Kue rortior est illo quifrangit viribus urbes."
Montraartre. This building has cost the liaison deP.Comeille (Rue d'Argenteuil,
government over $G, 000,000 since it was 18). —
In the court is a bust of the poet with
founded. Open every day a fee of a ;
this inscription
franc is expected from a party.
"•Jene dois qu'a moi seal toute ma renommee."
Hotel Pompeien, the former Mansion of
Prince Xapoleon, now in the possession of In the second story is the room in which
Count Palffy, a Hungarian nobleman. The Corneille breathed his last.
mansion is built in the style of Diomede's I Maison de Racine (Rue Yisconti, 19).
house at Pompeii, as described by Bulwer Racine died in this house in 1699, after
in his '-Last Days of Pompeii," and in having lived in it for forty years.
keeping with the paintings and furniture
of the houses of that ill-fated cit}', which
have been and are daily being discovered
at Pompeii. On the right and on the left
of the entrance stand the bronze statues of
Minerva and Achilles. On
the pavement
dog is represent-
in front of the entrance a
ed in mosaic, with the words " Cave ca-
nem'' (beware of the dog) on entering,
;
trate in his robes of office; IKJ, Snyders, Madame Jarre ; (not catalogued) Idem.,
a fishmonger's shop '62, JRibera, a lame
; a young girl; 466, Keynault, Education
boy carrs^ng his crutch on his shoulder; d'Achille par le Centaure Chiron ; 127,
155, an old lady, Dutch school 78, Maes, ; Cochereau, L'Atelier de David (not cata- ;
The large picture facing the entrance is Mauziisse, an old lady reading. The next
Medaro and Angelica, by Coypel, a subject room is the Salle des Bijoux (formerly Salle
from Ariosto's poem, "Orlando Furioso ;" des Bronzes), containing beautiful Italian
here are also some fruit and flower pieces and other jewels. We
then enter the Sal'.e
by Gerard van Spaendouck and Van Dael. Ronde. The ceiling is beautifully frescoed,
"\Ve now enter the Salle des Sept Cheminees, and the pavement a fine mosaic. It opens
containing the principal paintings of the into the Galerie d' ApoUon. This splendid
modern French school namely, the mas-
; gallery is one of the finest in the Louvre.
terpieces of David, Gros, Glrodet, Prudhon, For over one hundred years it has been
Gericault, Gerard, Guerin. and others. Here occupied as a picture-gallery, and was re-
died Henry IV., after he had been stabbed juvenated in 1851 b}' Napoleon III. It
by Kavaillac. 83, Madame Lebrun, Portrait commands a fine view both of the Seine
of herself and daughter (not catalogued)
;
and the garden. Portraits of many of the
Idem., Portrait of herself; 84, Idem., ;
leading artists and of monarchs who have
Portrait du Compositeur Paesiello; 148, '
engaged in the building of the Louvre,
David, Leonidas aux Thermopiles; 149, finely executed in Gobelins tapestry, adorn
Idem., I'Enlevement des Sabines ; 152, the walls. Next we pass into the Salon
Idem.. Belisaire; 157, Idem., Portrait de \
Carre: 27, Corregglo, Mariage de Sainte
Pecoul, beau-pcre de David; 158, Idem., Catherine d'Alexandrie avec I'Enfant Je-
Portrait de Madame Pecoul 159, Idem., ;
I
sus 2S,Idem., Le Sommeil d'Antiope 34,
; ;
19"2. Fabre, Xeoptoleme et Ulysse enlevent barelli), Concert champeti'e 48, Le Guer- ;
a Philoctete les fleches d'Hercule 236, ; chln. La Resun'ection de Lazarc bo, Idem., ;
Gerard, Psyche revolt le premier baiser de Les saints protecteurs de la ville de Mo-
r Amour; 238, Idem., La Victoire et la dene 87, Philip de Champagne, Portrait
;
Poesie; 240, Idem., Portraits d'Isabe_y, Portrait d"homme ; 94, Bronzino, Portrait
peintre en miniature et de sa fille 241, ; d'un sculpteur; 103, Paul Veronese, Les
Idem., Portrait de Canova, statuaire 242, ; Noces de Cana 104, Idem., Repas chez le;
Gericault, Le radeau de la Meduse ; 243, [Pharisien; 107 bis. Idem., Jupiter fou-
Jdem., Officier de chasseurs a cheval ; 244, droyant le Crime; 138, Annihal Carrache,
Idem., Cuirassier blesse quittant la feu ;
Apparition de la Sainte Vierge a Saint Luc
245, Idem., Portrait d"un Cuirassier, nu- et b, Sainte Catherine lA2,Van Dyck, Por- ;
tc'te
;
(not catalogued) Idem., Une Course trait Charles P"" roi d'Angleterre, ne on
de chevaux 250, Girodet, Scene du Deluge
; 1600, mort en 1649 150, Idem., Portrait do :
274, Gros, Bonaparte visitant les pestiferes 208, Holbein, Portrait do Didier Erasme, no
I
(le Saint Jean-Baptiste 288, Memling, ; la Madonna della Salute, h. Venise 01, ;
iSaint Jean-Baptiste; 2^9, Idem., Sainte Barocci, La Vierge et I'Enfant Jesus adores
IMarie Madeleine 298, Melsu, Militaire re-
; par Saint Antoine et Sainte Lucie 126, ;
cevaut line jeune Dame; 303, Bassano, L. Carracci, La Merge et I'Enfant Jesus ;
jeune Saint Jean 376, Idem., La Vierge, ; de Saint Paul; 494, Idem., Sainte Cecile ;
I'Enfant Jesus endornii,le jeune Saint Jean; 498, Idem., Triomphe de 1' Amour 339, Le ;
377, Idem., Sainte Faniille 378, Idem., La ; Guide, Enlevement d'Helene 9, Albane, ; U
Vier^e et Sainte Elisabeth caressant Saint La Toilette de Venus 10, Idem., Le Repos ;
Jean enfant; 380, Idem., Saint Michael; de Venus et de Vulcain 11, Idem., Les ;
3Sl,Idem., Saint Georges 382, Idem., Saint ; Amours desarmes 12, Idem., Adonis con-
;
Michael terrassant le demon; 387, Idem., duit pres de Venus par les Amours : 83,
L'Abondance 403, Solano, La Vierge al-
; Caravage, La Disease de bonne aventure
laitant I'Enfant Jesus 410, liembrandt, Le ; 73, Pierre de Cortone, Alliance de Jacob et
Menage du Menuisler 419, Idem., Portrait ; de Laban 74, Idem., Nativite de la Vierge;
;
dans un vase rempli de sang 434, Nicolas ; Spanish School. 555, Velasquez, Portrait
Poussin, Saint Francois Xavier rappelant i
de la seconde fille de Philippe IV. 550 its, ;
iSl, Leonardo da Vinci, La Vierge, I'Enfant Porbiisle Jeune, Portrait dHenri IV. 343, ;
Jesus et Sainte Anne 484, Idem., Portrait ; Sir Antonis Mora, Le Nain de Charles
de Mona Lisa o2.'', Eiislache Lesueur, Ap-
; Quint; from 434 to 457, Rubens, Histoire
parition de Sainte Scolastique a Saint Be- de Marie de ^ledicis 425, Idem., La Fuite;
noit; 52G, Terburg, \j\\ Militaire oftrant de de Loth; 428, Idem., La Vierge aux Anges ;
I'argent a, une jeune femme 540 his, Mu- ; 350, Theodore ran Thulden, Le Christ appa-
lillo. La Conception immaculee de la raissant h la Vierge; 2bb,Jorda^7is, Le Roi
Yierge 553, Ribera ou Espagnolet, L'Ado-
; boit 256, Idem., Concert de famille
; 137, ;
ration des Bergers 587, Valentin, Concert. ; Van Dyck, La Vierge aux Donateurs; 188,
In the Grande Galerie are : Idem., Le Christ pleurc par le Vierge et
Italian School. —
364, Cosimo RosseJli, La par les Anges 148, Idem., Portraits d'un
;
Vierge et I'Enfant Jesus; 200, Raffaellino homme et d'un enfant; 149, Iikm.. Por-
del Garbo, Le Couronnement de la S'ierge ;
traits d'une dame et de sa tille 152, Idem., ;
240, B. Luino, Sainte Famille 297, Giulio ; Portrait de Van Dyck 215, Gerard Ilon- ;
Romano, his own likeness 453, Vasai'i, La ; thorst, Pilate se lavant les mains de la mort
Salutation angelique 93, Bronzino, Le ; du Juste 217. Idem.. Triomphe de Silene
;
Clirist apparait i\ la Madeleine 468, Titian, ; 404. Rembrandt, L'Ange Raphael quittant
Jupiter et Antiope, or La Venus du Prado ; Tobie 407, Idem., Los Pelerins d' Emmaiis
;
;
l'9.s, Bassano, L'Entree des Animaux dans 40.S and 4U9, Idem.. Deux Philosophes en
I'Arche; 307, Idem., Portrait de Jean de mcdit:ition 83, Philip tie Champagne, Por-
;
107, Paul Vih-on'ese, Lcs Pelerins d'Em- der Meulen, Entree de Louis XIV. et de
niaiis ; 113, Canaletto, Vua de I'Eglisc de Marie Therese ^ Arras 306, Idem., Prise ;
359
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
de Dinant 309, Idem., Un Combat pres du from 70 to 74, Lebrun, Batailles d' Alexan-
;
Canal de Bruges 310, Idem.^ Arrivee du dre 65, Idem., Saint Etienne lapide 260,
; ; ;
roi devant Maestricht; 558, Adrien van Greiize, L'Accordee de village 261, Idem., ;
der Werf, Moise sauve des eaux 560, La Malediction paternelle 262, Id^m., Re- ; ;
Idem., Les Anges annoncant aux Bergers tour du tils maudit 634, Joseph Vitn, Saint ;
Femmes sortaut du bain 123, Gerard Dow, Amours de Paris et d'Helene 281, Pierre
; ;
L'Epiciere de village 125, Idem., La Cui- Guerin, Enee et Didon 235, Francois Ge-
; ;
siniere Hollandaise 128, Idem., L'Arra- rard, Entree d' Henri IV. a Paris
; 457, ;
cheur de dents 129, Idem., Une Lecture Pierre Prudhon, Le Christ sur la Croix
;
de la Bible 130, Idem., Portrait du pein- 493, Leopold Robert, L'Arrivee des Mois-
;
512, David Teniers, L'Enfant prodigue bu- Idem., Le retour du pelerinage k la Ma-
vant avec des Courtisanes 513, Idem., Les done de I'Arc 499, Xavier Sigalon, La
; ;
Jean Wynants, Lisiere de Foret 580, Idem., ; left hand, the entrance to Galerie des Sept
Faysage 104, Albert Cugp, Paysage 105,
; ; Metres, or Petite Salle Italienne. Here are
Idem., Depart pour la Promenade 106, : collected some of the best works of re-
Idem., La Promenade 43, Jean Both, Pay- ;
nowned Italian painters, among which we
sage ; 355, Van der Xeer, Clair de lune ;
particularly notice 177, Lorenzo di Credi, :
470, Jacques Ruisda'el, Foret; 471, Idem., Virgin and Child ; 353, Tintoretto, a Por-
Tempete sur la plage de Hollande 473, trait 294, Giulio Romano, Madonna, Child, ; ;
Idem., Coup de soleil 472, Idem., Pay- and St. John 295, Idem., a Roman Tri-
; ;
der Heyden, Maison commune d'Amster- ing. Now, from Salon Carre, we enter
dam 5, Ludolph BaclJiuysen, L'Escadre
; (lefthand) the JIusee des Anfiquites Etrus-
Hollandaise 348, Peter Xeefs, Vue d'une
; ques,where splendid fresco paintings and
cathedrale 223, Peter de Hoogh, Interieur
; mosaic tables are to be seen.
Hollandais 177, Jean Fyt, Gibier et fruits
; You now retrace your steps to the Salle
178, Idem., Gibier dans un garde-manger; des Sept Cheminees, a door to the right of
179, /c?effi., L'n chien devorant du gibier; which conducts you to the museum of
554, Jean Weenix, Gibier et utensiles de Antique Ceramics, consisting of nine rooms,
chasse ;555, Idem., Les Produits de la in which are collected upward of six thou-
chasse 192, David de Ileem, Fruits
; 235, ; sand objects, such as vases, statues, lamps,
Van Huysum, Corbeilles et vases de fleurs. valuable bas-reliefs from the East, Greece,
A suite of rooms entered from the Long and Italy. The ceilings of the different
Gallery, including the splendidly decorated rooms represent the following subjects 1st :
Salon Denon. contains the paintings of the room, Richelieu presmtant le Poussin a Louis
French school. Here are 137, Jean Cou- : XIII., by Alaux 2d room. Bataille d'lvry,
;
sin, Le Jugement dernier 416, Nicolas ; by Steuben 3d room, Le Puget presentant a>
;
Poussin, Moise sauve des eaux 415, Idem., ; Louis XIV. son groupe de Milon de Crotone,
Eliezer et Rebecca 445, Idem., Les Ber- ; by Deveria 4th room, Francois /*'" recevant
;
220, Idem., Vue du Campo Vaccino ; 221, en France, and eight Scenes d^ I'histoire de
Idem., Fete villageoise 520, Eustacke Le- ; France, from the reign of Charles VIII.
sueur. Saint Gervais et Saint Protais rcfu- until the death of Henry II., by M. Heim ;
sent de sacrifier aux faux dieux 521, ; 6th room, Frangois P"^ arme par Bayard,
I
360
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
turning toward the Salle des Sept Chemi- The first two of the three rooms entered
nees, Le Genie de la France encourageant from this suite, formerly called Musee de la
les A rts, ei 2)renant la Grece sous sa protec- Cul'mnade, are completely empty. The
tion, by Gros ;2d room, Jules IT. donnant tiiird one is occupied by the American Gal-
des ordres pour la construction de Saint lery, consisting of a fine collection of Peru-
Piei've a Bramante, a Michel Ange et a Ra- vian and ^lexican antique relics, presented
L
I
Grece, hy Picot. The fifth room is divided Crossing the landing-place, we first visit
into three parts by Corinthian columns. a suite of seven rooms, called GideHes de
In the centre of the floor is a rich mosaic. la Renaissance et du Moyen Age, including
The ceiling, painted by Gros, is divided the celebrated Sauvageot collection. Here
into nine parts those in the middle repre- are gathered a very great number of ob-
;
sent Mars couronne par le Vicioire et arrete jects, consisting of carved ivory, stained
par la Moderation, la Gloire s'appuyant sur glass, earthenware, etc. We then enter
la Verfu, le Temps mettant la Verite soioi la the first of a series of fourteen rooms con-
protection de hi Sagesse; the six others are taining the Museum of Drawings, including
dedicated to the centuries most celebrated pastels, cartoons, etc. [Two more rooms
in the arts. Wc next enter the Musee belonging to this museum are on the floor
Grec et Romain, the ceilings of which are above, near the Musee de la Maiine.'\ The
also decorated by most beautiful paintings collection of designs of the old masters in
;
1st room, Cyb'ele protegeant Hercidanurn et the Louvre is about the richest in Europe.
Pompei contre les feux du Vesuve, by Picot: Several of the most celebrated painters,
2d room, Les Nymphcs de Parthenope. portant the absence of whose works is regretted in
leurs penates arrivent sur les bords de la the Gallery of Paintings, figure here among
Settle, l)y IMeynier 3d room, Le Vesui'e re- the sketches.
;
ceviint de Jupiter le feu qui doit consumer The Museum of Drawings, from an in-
Ilerculanum et Pompei, by M. Heim 4th ventory taken in 18G6. contains 18.200 de-
;
tion of miniature paintings, in five glass eur, La Vierge s'agenouillant, and Une Of-
cases, presented by Mons. and Madame Le- frande de Psyche a Venus'), of Correggio,
noir two beautiful Egyptian saddles, in of Titian (Vieillard endormi, Vieillard pri-
;
glass cases, brought to France b}' Napo- ant), of Paul Veronese (Sainte FamiJle), of
leon I. on three sides of this room are Murillo (St. Joseph conduisant f Enfant Je-
;
glass presses filled with numerous objects, sus), of Rubens, of Paul Potter, of Nicolaa
361
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
Poussin, of Claude Lorrain, and of David Leaving the Mu^ee de Marine, you enter
(Serment du Jeu de Paume). a corridor leading to three rooms called
Next to the }fuseum of Drawings is a Salles Supplimentalres; the first and third
]iassage from which is entered the Salle of which contain choice pictures of the
des Bronzes, containing upward of a thou- Dutch, Flemish, and French schools. We
sand objects, a great many of them repre- notice in the first. Dog and game, b}'
senting mythological personages among ;
Desportes; a landscape, by Joseph Vernet
the rest are several remarkable busts, Persee et Andromede, by Coypel. In the
namely, of Vespasian, Claude and Titus. third, Philip de Champagnes beautiful
The gates closing the entrance to this room Christ a sea-piece, by Buckhuysen ; Flow-
;
You now ascend a small staircase close Snyders. The middle room is devoted
by, and come to the two rooms belonging to the exhibition of pictures by French
to the Museum of Draioing above men- painters ten years deceased, lately brought
tioned the drawings exhibited here con-
;
i'rom the Luxembourg Gal erg : Death of
stitute a choice collection of works by Queen Elizabeth of England, by Paul
Raphael, Michel Angela, Poussin, A. D'urer, Delaroche ; a landscape, b}'- Rousseau ; a
Giulio Romano, and others, so precious scene out of Dante's Inferno, by Eugene
that, with a view to their preservation, De'acroix; Judith and Holophern, by Hor-
they are closely shut in cases, the room be- ace Vernet ; Man sitting squat, by Jlippo-
ing in consequence called Salle des Boites. lite Flandrin ; Cattle, by Trogo i ; Homer's
from St. Helena in 18-10, a model of the Stooping Venus, holding a bow, 148 Dis- ;
state gallery of Louis XIV., and of the cobolus, or quoit-thrower (not numbered)
man-of-war "Louis XV." One of the a graceful and much-admired Bacchus, 217
rooms contains a model of the country another Stooping Venus, otherwise Diane
around Luxor, whence the obelisk Avas au Bain, 147 the faultless Ephesus, 183
:
;
taken that at present adorns ths Place the Borghesc Hermaphrodite, 374. Crossing
de la Concorde in short, you will find
; now a narrow gallery, 3'ou come to the Sal e
in the museum ever}'- thing that relates du Glndiateur, so called from the marvelous
to navigation and war, arms of all styles statue standing near its centre. In the
and calibres, and instruments of every de- first of its compartments is the well-known
scription. antique of the Centaur and the Genius of
362
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
Bacchus, 299 and the celebrated Diane a number of ancient tombs of various de-
;
la liirche, 98. In the second, the Satyr scriptions and some good bas-reliefs.
Marsias, about to be flayed alive, 8G the After retracing your steps to where you
;
Diane de Gibli, a far-famed masterpiece first came in. you enter the great court,
of Greek art, 97. In tlie third, the no less and turning at once to the left, j'ou find
celebrated Pallas or Jlinerva, 114. In the the entrance to the Musee d Li Sc dpfure
fourth and last, the colossal statue of Mel- Moderne. The modern sculpture occupies
pome/ie, at the toot of which are seen some five rooms: the Salle du l*uget, the Salle
line mosaics representin<5 Victory, the Nile, Coysevox, the Salle des Coustou, the Salle
the Po, the Danube, and the Dnieper. In Houdon, and the Salle de Chaudet.
the opening leading to the -S'af'e Venus de Salle du J'tiget. —
This room is thus call-
Milo is the Vemis de F(der(me, in Parian ed because it contains several works of
marble. This statue is without either this great artist, who well merits the names
head or arms, and bear.--, in point of at- given to him of the Rubens (fScnlptur- and
titude and drapery, great resemblance to the Michael Angelo of France. Among
lier sister of Milo. Vou now enter the these works are, Perseus delivering An-
tSalle Venus de Milo, where you meet at dromeda, Hercules in repose, Milon dc
once the celebrated statue of that name. Crotone, Alexander and Diogenes, and
In the next compartment is Psi/cke, a most Alexander the Great.
graceful Greek statue, 'Cul. In the third, Salle Coysevox contains the tomb of Car-
a splendid marble sarcophagus adorned dinal Mazarin; also the busts of ilignard,
with fine bas-reliefs, 438. In the fourtii, Lebrun, Bossuet, and Richelieu.
Eros^ a Greek statue of most delicate exe- Sidle des Coustou contains a statue of
cution (restored), 325. In the fifth, Hjjgeia^ Louis XV., Apollo presenting the image
one of the most beautiful sculptures in the of Louis XIV. to France, by N. Coustou ;
Louvre, 407 Slleae in a state of intoxi- the other works by diflerent artists.
;
de JJicme. In the centre stands a triangu- and of the Abbe Aubert, hy Houdon Cu- ;
lar pedestal or altar with bas-reliefs rep- pid a id Psych", by Delaistre, and a Psyche
resenting the Gods of O'ympvs and other by Pajon.
mythological figures a well-preserved and
; Salle ChiU'let contains two works by
interesting object. —
Round the room is a Chaudet Cupid with the Butterfly, and
collection of antique fragments of sculp- the Shepherd Phorbas with the infant
ture from various countries. Next comes Qi^dipus; one of the sons of Niobe, i)y Pra-
the Sd'le d<s Saisons, including the Rotunda dier Biblis metamorphosed into a Fount-
;
and the next four compartments, all of ain, by Dupaty and Corinne, by Gois. ;
which were restored in the splendid style The entrance to the Museum of Sculpture
at present apparent by Napoleon III. The of the Middle Ages is on the left of the out-
ceiling of the Rotund is ornamented with let in the south wing. This museum com-
i
a beautiful fresco of Prometheus with the prises eight rooms including the small en-
heavenly fire, and those of the other com- trance-hall. The first room on the left is
partments with various mythological sub- the Salle de la Cheminee de Bruges, deriv-
jects. Here some beautiful
are to be seen ing its name from the cast of a chimney-
antiques, among whicli Apollo Lycian and piece in some office at Bruges, also casts
Bacchus, also well-preserved bas-reliefs, of the tombs of Charles the Bold and his
and a gilt bronze statue of Minerva on daughter, Marie de Bourgogne, taken from
a porphyry pedestal, which formerly be- the church of Notre Dame at Bruges. In
longed to Cardinal ^lazarin. The doors in the entrance-hall is a statue of Childeberty
the tliird compartment are much admired. King of France. The second room en-
The last two rooms are called Sa!l(S d s tered from this hall is the Muse Chretien,
Empereurs, from their containing principal- containing sarcophagi and bas - reliefs.
ly statues of Roman emp:^rors. As you re- Next is the Musie Ju<laique, where are
turn through the Sail- d's Saisons \o\i meet to be seen fragments of sarco])hagi and
on 3'our left at the foot of the Daru stair some jewels. In the Salle Michel Colombe
the Salle des Sarcophagcs, containing a are : 84, Combat of St. George with the
3G3
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
of Christ laid in the tomb, by Danielo discovered in Asia Minor and presented
da VoU':rra. In the centre of Salle Jean to the museum by the Barons Rothschild.
Go'ijon is a beautiful sculpture in marble, On the left of Pavilion Marengo is the
j
Fran(^ais, by Jean Cousin^ is a master- belonging to the Louvre, and sold at veiy
piece ;110, a beautiful bas-relief in mar- moderate prices.
ble, called le Reveil, by Fremyn Roussel
123, Gei-main Pi'on, St. Paul preaching at
Athens, a bas-relief in stone 129, 130, 131, ;
tute.
the Revolution, and an entirely new sys- les Jeunes Pers'mnes, in which young wom-
tem of education adopted. At the head en, intended fur the arts or similar profes-
of this system is placed the University of sions, have the means of studying figures,
France^ Avhich, properly speaking, is only landscapes, flowers, etc. Palais et Ecole des
a board of education, consisting of nine Beaux A i-ts, in which gratuitous lectures
members, presided over by the Minister of on all subjects connected with the arts are
Public Instruction as grand master, and given by twenty-one professors. Ecole
having under him twenty-two inspectors Veterinaire, a celebrated establishment, not
general of studies. The most extensive in Paris, but at Alfort, in its vicinity. Con-
school of Paris is the Academy, consisting :
servatoire de Musique et de Declamation, for
of five faculties: Science, with ten ordina- i tb.e instruction of both sexes in music, sing-
ry and eight supplementary professorships ; ;
in<j, and declamation, by a numerous body
Letters, with twelve ordinary and seven of first-class professors, male and female,
supplementar}^ Law, with seventeen ordi-
; and numerous primary schools, superior,
nar^^ and eight supplementary ; Theology, and infant schools.
with six ordinary and five supplementan,' The Sorhonne. —
This institution was
and Jfedicine, with twenty-six ordinary. founded in 1253 by Robert de Sorbon as a
After the Academy come the College 'de school of theology. The present building
France, with twenty-seven professors the
; was begun by Cardinal Richelieu, and has
College attached to the 3 fusee d' Bistoire \
been enlarged at diflferent times. It is the
Naturelle, with fifteen ; the colleges of '
under Louis XVIII., but not completed from the library by application to your em-
until the A^car 1839. It is 240 feet lung l)y bassador. In a room adjoining the read-
GO feet high. The apartments comprising ing-room will Ijc found the two globes pre-
the first Hoor are beautifullj' decorated. sented to Louis XIV. by Cardinal d"Es-
The school is divided into two sections trees; they are made of copper, and arc
one of architecture, the other of painting nearly 3G feet in circumference. Amid
and sculpture. Prizes arc annually distrib- the numerous curiosities of the library wc
uted to the pupils those who receive grand
; perceive a beautiful vase made from the
])rizcs are sent to Rome for three years at single tooth of an elephant and enriched
the expense of the government. An ex- with precious stones. Visitors are admit-
hibition of the works of the pupils, as well ted on Tuesdays and Fridays, and students
as of those sent by the students from Rome, every day except Sundays and holidays.
takes place every year in September. The
walls arc adorned with some very fine
paintings that have taken the prize at the
exhibitions. This institution is well v. orth
a visit from the traveler. Admittance maj'
be obtained by an application to the porter
from 10 to 4 a fee cf about ono franc is
;
expected.
of the tickets attached. The black indi- and monsters. Here you may perceive
cate? poisonous plants the red, medicinal
: the difference between the full-breasted
the ^Teen, alimentary the yellow, orna-
; Englishman and the narrow-breasted Ital-
mental and the blue, those used in the
: ian ; the retreating forehead of the New
arts. There are 1200 different specimens Zealander and the tapering chest and
of Lotanical plants cultivated in this gar- sunken temples of the Egyptian. The
den, and over 10,000 bags of seed distrib- twelfth room is filled with the skulls and
uted to professors for the purpose of propa- casts of notorious characters, collected Joy
gation. The conservatories are well worth the celebrated Dr. Gall, You are partic-
visiting. To obtain permission, apply to ularly struck with the majestic, high, and
M. de Caisne at the establishment. ample forehead of Bacon the small but
;
We visit next the Menagerie, one of the regular head of Voltaire, low in the fi re.
most extensive in the world, established head, but full in the region of the ears
here in 179-1, It is divided into numerous Rousseau, with a benevolent, placid, but
compartments inclosed with iron railings. sorrowful expression. The Cabinet of An-
Here you perceive a spacious poultni'-yard, thropology, the Galler}' of Zoology, the
in which are all kinds of geese and swans, Mineralogical and Geological Museum,
not to speak of buffaloes ; a menagerie of which exceed over G0,000 specimens. The
reptiles, containing crocodiles, alligators, library and botanical gardens, do they not
lizards, boas ; a menagerie of beasts of contain millions of specimens, and arc
prey here you have Bengal tigers, lions,
: there not catalogues publishedof the whole?
bears, panthers, and hyenas a very ex-
; They are all open on Sundays, Tuesdays,
tensive family of monkeys, a large circu- and Thursdays from 1 to 5, and on Satur-
lar space provided -with galleries, ropes, day (with passport) from 11 to 2.
and ladders affording them every conven- Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. —
This
ience for their comical evolutions, much building is a part of the former monastery
to the amusement of the crowd. Near by of St. Martin desChamps, founded by
you will perceive the young elephant sent Henry I, in and which remained
lOGO,
from Soudan by Prince Halini Pacha. To for a long time one of the largest and
j
witness the feeding of the animals, apply wealthiest of the Order of St. Benedict in
to M. le Directeur du Jardin des Plantes. France. In the thirteenth century it was
The Museum of Natural History is con- surrounded by a wall and 21 towers, one
tained in a large range of buildings three of which still exists but in 1789 the mon-
;
stories high. It is considered as standing astery was dissolved and the fortifications
at the head of all institutions of this kind leveled. The Conservatoire des Arts et
in Europe. A detailed account of this vast |
Metiers was established here in 1798 at
collection of specimens, in which almost '
; additions.
liangs l)y her side, her left is raised to her a council, with a director (General Morin)
breast, as if pressing the nourishment of
'•
tons. Here are skeletons of the human right and left agricultural products, grain,
species from almost every nation and tribe 1
seeds, inodels of fruits, etc., from all quar-
under he v^^n, including mummies, dwarfs, ; ters of the globe. "We next enter a vc ti-
oG3
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
bule called the Salx de T Echo, so construct- charged, by a decree in 1849, with every
;
ed that a whisper may be heard from one thing relating to public charity. It is
end to the other. In this room is the mod- managed by a director and Conseil de Sur-
el of the apparatus used in transporting the veillance of 20 members.
obelisk of Luxor. The hall to the left on Among the principal hospitals are the
entering contains a collection of the weights //o<e/Z)ieM (Place duParvis Notre Dame),
and measures of all the countries in the founded in 660 by Saint Landry, bishop of
world. In the Salle des Filatures are looms Paris, and enlarged by Philip Augustus.
and spinning machines of every description. It was endowed by St. Louis, Henry IV.,
The Chapel is now filled with hydraulic Louis XIV., and Louis XV. successively.
machines, and is called the Depot des Mod- It contains 828 beds, and receives the sick
eles. A shaft worked by steam runs and wounded, except persons incurable, or
through it, and communicates motion to afflicted with skin diseases. The old build-
the different machines. In the nave is a ing will soon be pulled down, the spacious
large tank which supplies water necessary new Hotel Dieu being very nearly completed.
for the mills. A staircase leads to the up- La Charite (Rue Jacob, 47), founded in
per story and to a gallery, in which are 1602 by Maria de Medici?, and considera
models of steam-engines, machinery for rc- bly enlarged in 1864 474 beds.
:
sheet-iron used in the construction of the- Among the hospitals for the treatment
Great Eastern. On our way down the gal- of sp3cial diseases are :
lery we find, on the left, a small room de- Saint Louis (Rue Bichat, 40 and 42),
voted to astronomical instruments. At the founded in 1604, ly Henry IV., for the
end of the gallery are six rooms, the first treatment of cutaneous diseases 882 beds.
;
containing ornamental tiles, the next four Hopital dii Midi (Rue des Capucins
contain specimens of glass bells and cylin- Saint Jacques, 15), established in 1785.
ders, pumps, lithographic presses, and one in the ancient convent of the Capucins.
the celebrated Machine de Marly, that Consecrated to the treatment of secret
raised water for the fountains at Versailles. maladies (for men only) 336 beds.
;
Two are devoted to optics and acoustics. Hi>pital de Lourcine (Rue de Lourcine,
There are several rooms running parallel 111) occupies a part of the ancient convent
to tho main gallery, filled with instruments of the Cordeliers, founded in 1284 by Mar-
of natural philosophy. Another room is guerite de Provence. It is devoted to the
devoted to watcli-making, and the appara- treatment of women afflicted with secret
tus and tools used in its manufacture. diseases 276 beds.
;
Descending the staircase to the vestil)ule, Htipital des Infants Malades (Rue de Se-
wc enter on the left the library (^Biblio- vres, 149) receives sick children of both
thc(|ue), formerly the refectory of the con- sexes. It was founded in 1735 by Laur<!nt
vent. There are about 20,000 volumes in de Gergy, curate of Saint Sulpicc, and con-
the library, on subjects connected with the tains 698 beds.
arts and sciences. Tliis room is a beauti- Among the alms-houses are:
ful specimen of the Gothic architecture of Hospice des In<:u}-ablcs {hommes) (Rue
the thirteenth century. In one end is the Popincourt, 66), founded in 1683 b}' Saint
pulpit, from which prayers were read dur- Vincent de Paul, and receives the poor at
ing the monastic moals, and the staircase the age of 70, or those who, j^ounger, are
|
in the wall leading to it. There are sev- unable to work: 456 beds.
i
eral paintings representing the arts and Jlospice des Incurables {femmes') (Rue de
}
The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers is of 70, or those still j'ounger who are unable
open to the public on Sundays and Thurs- to work 690 beds. ;
tion generalc de V Assistance Puhlique was of age, if they are not reclaimed.
I
369
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris
Institution Sainte Ferine (4 Place Saints and the surplus given to the owner, if ai>
'
Genevieve, at Auteuil) was founded in 180G plied for within three years, after which
l)y M. Duchaila, for persons over 60 years time it is given to the Administration do
of age of small income. An annual pay- I'Assistance Publiquc. The general direc
'.,
ment is required of 700 francs. tion and the central bureau ofthe Mont de
I
Hospice Devillas (Rue de Regard), found- Pietc are at No. 7 Rue de Paradis, and No.
ed by M. Devillas in 1832, receives aged 18 Rue des Blancs Manteaux,
!
There arj
persons inflicted with incurable diseases. also two branches
j
one No. 16 Rue Bona- ;
Hospice des Quinze-Vingts (28 Rue de parte, the other Rue des Amandiers Popin-
I
the age of 40, and for whom the means of Etahlissements et oeuvres en faveur eU
'
sex, whose st.udies continue during eight under the care of the Sisters of Saint Yiu'
years. Price, 1000 francs. cent de Paul.
Orplielinat da Prince Imperial has for its L'Asile des Petits Orphelins (Chaussee de
object the relief cf poor orphans, by giving Menilmontant) receives orphans of both
j
them apprentices to some trade. The sum L'CEuvre de Notre Dame des Sept Doii-
j
paid fur the board and lodging of an orphan leurs (Faubourg Saint Honore) receives
is about 200 francs. sick children, whose age prevents their en-
SocUte du Prince Imperial pour les Prets trance into the hospitals.
—
de I' Enfance au Travail. This Focist}^ was Z' CEuvre des Petits Ramoneurs was found-
founded by the Empress in 1862, for the ed in 1736. It is open every evening for
purpose of advancing money to artisans the civil and religious instruction of chim-
and laborers, to enable them to buy tools, ne}'-sweepers.
materials, etc., when in want of funds.
Mont de Pike. — This institution was MILITARY ESTABLISHMENTS.
founded in 1777 for the benefit ofthe hos- —
Hotel des Invalides. This vast and splen-
pitals and other charitable institutions, and did establishment was founded by Louis
enjoys the privilege of lending upon mova- XIV. in 1670. Its object is to maintain at
bles four fifths of the value of gold and the expense ofthe nation the worn-out sol-
silver articles, and two thirds of all other diers of France, giving them the comforts
effects. The interest upon pledges is 9i of a home in their declining days. The
per cent., and the interest must be paid hotel is 612 feet front, four stories high,
entire, though the loan last but for a few and lighted by 133 windows. It present-i
days. The engagement is made for a year, thi-ee pavilions the one in the centre has
:
but the borrower is free to anticipate his a high door, over the arch of which is a
payments. The engagement can not be bas-relief of the founder of the hotel on
made for a sum exceeding 15 francs witli- horseback. The entrance leads to a mag-
out the presentation of a passport and the nificent court-yard 315 feet long by 192
identification of the borrower. A caisse broad. It is surrounded by four piles of
d'a comptes enables borrowers to refund buildings, Avith central projections and ele-
the sums advanced by instalments 1 franc ; gant pavilions at the angles. The first de-
is received. After 14 months, if the dupli- sire of visitors is generally to see the refec-
cate be not renewed, the c fleets are sold, tories and kitchens. The refectories are
370
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
orated with frescoes, representing towns site each other; both groups arc admira-
conquered by Louis XIV. There are two bly executed. A winding staircase on
kitchens adjoining —
one for the officers, each side of the high altar leads to the
and one for the privates 3000 pounds of crypt containing the Tomb of Napoleon J.
;
meat are cooked here daily. There is a Over the entrance we find a quotation from
=pit capable of roasting 400 pounds at a the Emperor's will: ''I desire that my
time 1500 pounds of meat are generally ashes may repose en the banks of the
;
boiled, and 1500 made into ragouts. The Seine, in the midst of the French people
dormitories on the first and second stories whom I have ever loved." The pavement
are extensive, and admirably ventilated. of the crypt is beautifully decorated with
The visitor should not fail, if here between a crown of laurels in mosaic. On the bal-
the 1st of May and 15th of June, to obtain ustrade surrounding the tomb are the
tickets to visit the Galerie des plans et des names of Napoleon's principal victories,
Fortresses de France. Here may be seen represented by twelve colossal statues by
models over 200 feet square of many of the Pradier. The tomb
is an immense mono-
tle of Lodi and siege of Rome, executed in it was polished by a powerful steam-en-
wood and plaster Avith great nicety. There gine. The sarcophagus a single block,
is
is a line library attached to the hotel, 12 feet long and G broad, resting on a ped-
founded by Napoleon I., containing over estal of green granite. In the recess ad-
30,000 volumes, open from 9 to 3 except joining the crypt stands the statue of the
on Sundays. It contains a fine picture of Emperor, dressed in his imperial robes.
Napoleon I. crossing 3Iount Saint Bernard, Here, also, is the crown of gold voted by
also one of Napoleon III. and the cannon
; the town of Cherbourg ; the insignia he
l)all l)y which Marshal Turenne was killed. wore on state occasions, and the sword that
West of the li!)rary is the Council Chamber, he wore at the battle of Austerlitz. The
in which, and the adjoir^ng Salle d' Attente, whole expense of the tomb was nearly
are numerous portraits of different mai'- 82,000.000. The hotel is under the direc-
shals of France and governors of the ho- tion of the ^linister of War. The senior
tel. The portrait of Prince Jerome while marshal of France is generally ap| ointed
King of Westphalia was presented to the governor, who receives a salar}' of $8000
Hotel des Invalides by Count d'Orsay. You a general of division commandant, salary
now pass through a corridor (on some oc- $3000; and a colonel-major, with eight
casions you are obliged to go round on the captains, and an adjutant, complete the
outside of the hotel) to the church, which command. Each man is allowed a quarter
contains all the banners taken by the of a pound of meat, half a pound of bread,
French in thoir wars with other nations and a litre of wine. The Ilotd des Inva-
arranged along on l;oth sides of the nave. lides is open daily from 10 to 4 o'clock the
;
The church is 210 feet long by high. m church to the public on Thursdays, and to the
On the piers of the arches, which are faced stranger, with passport, on Mondays. The
by Corinthian pilasters, are the names of Museum of Artillery on Tuesdays, Thurs-
different governors of the hotel, who are days, and Sundays, from 10 to 3, Some of
alone allowed to be buried in the nave, the Invalides are always ready to conduct
and have monuments erected in the church. you a tee of a franc is expected for a party.
:
The remains of Napoleon were temporarily At the southern side of the Champ de
placed here after being brought from Saint Mars stands the Ecole Milifaire, created by
Helena. We
now pass into the dome of Louis XV. for the education of young gen-
the church, which is one of the first edifices tlemen whose parents were in reduced cir-
which attracts the attention of the travel- cumstances, or who had lost their fiithers
er. Its height to the top of the cross is on the field of battle. A certain number
823 feet. The interior is circular, with were likewise admitted at the rate of $400
.^71
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris.
per annum. The front toward the Champ by a where the granaries may be
gallery,
de Mars is decorated Avith ten Corinthian seen. South of the building is a Doric
columns, supporting an attic adorned with '
column, erected in 1572 for Catharine de
bas-reliefs, wliich is surmounted b}^ a quad- Medicis. It was intended for astrological
rangular dome. The principal entranc purposes.
opens into the courts, which are surround- Ualie auv Vins, Quai St. Bernard, near
ed now with barracks. The Military School —
the Jardin des Plantes. The wine-market
was suppressed in 1788, since which time of Paris has been established over 200
it has been occupied as barracks for infant- years. Napoleon I. ordered the construc-
rj', cavalr}^ and artillery, and comfortably tion of the present mammoth estaVdish-
accommodates over 6CSJ0 men. For per- ment. It occupies over 100 English acres,
mission to visit the barracks, apply to the consisting of five streets, called after the
commandant of the first military division. different wine countries, viz., Rue de Bour-
gogne, Rue de Champagne, Rue de Bor-
MILITARY HOSPITALS. deaux, Rue de Languedoc, and Rue de la
The ]mI de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, in- Cote d" Or. There are 444 cellars and ware-
eludes the Jh/pital
JItipltal Militaire,
3filitaire, with 854 houses, capable of holding 450,000 casks
beds for soldiers and officers, surround- of wine, 100,000 of brandy, and 400 of ol-
ed by beautiful walks and gardens ; the ive oil. The average number of casks that
Ecole de Medecine et de Pharmacie MUitaire ; go and come daih' is over 1500. Ownei's
and the Buandeiie Centrale Hapitaux \
are not obliged to pay octroi duty while
Mill tat res. j
their wine remains in this bonded ware-
rhopital du Gros Caillon (188 Rue St. house. Inferior wines and brandies may
Dominique) contains 630 beds for the sick. be found at the wharf opposite. The hall
L'h'jpital Saint Martin (Rue du Fau- is open from sunrise until sunset.
bourg Saint Martin) possesses 425 beds. —
Marche aux Fleiirs. There are four
Vhupital de Vincennes, constructed in flower-markets the Marche du quai Napo-
;
1850, contains 630 beds. leon et du quai aux Fkurs, held Wednes-
VA rsenal, in the place of the same name, daA'S and Saturdays the Marche de la Mad-
;
was enlarged by Francis I. and Henry II., eleine, near the church of the same name,
and rebuilt bv Charles IX. It includes held on Tuesdays and Fridays the Marche
;
mences atMarenil, about ten leagues from Revolution of 1789. There is a kind of
!
Pari?, and falls into tlie Bassin de la Vil- disagreeable smell prevalent, and altogeth*
j
lette. Its length is 24 leagues. The canals er the eftect of the place is very oppressive,
Saint Martin and Saint Denis connect it especially to persons of sensitive feelings.
!
the last ten years. There are six main There are some sixty different cntn.nc^s
galleries or collectors, with 15 secondary at various points, but this is the one gen-
ones opening into them, which have also erally entered by strangers.
many smaller ones that cross the city in The Cemeteries of Paris. In 1790 a law —
every direction. Three of these galleries was passed prohibiting the burying of the
are on the left and three on the right bank dead within churches the enactment is ;
of the Seine. These collectors are united principally attributable to Voltaire, who
i
b}' a siphon under the bed of the Seine, wrote and protested strongly against the
I
near the Pont de la Concorde. Two sub- h it as most pernicious. The cemeteries
i I.
terranean canals, parallel with the banks of i'aris are three in number Pere la
! :
of the Seine, carry the sewage to a distance Chaise, Mont Parnassus, and Montmartre
!
of seven miles below the city. in addition to which, there is one appropri-
!
The Catacombs of Paris are very inter- ated to the use of hospitals and criminals.
esting. Travelers are allowed to visit them Pere la Chaise is named after a monk, who
I
everj' three months. The}' were origi- was confessor to Louis XIV., and resided
j
nally immense quarries for procuring stone on the spot. This was formerly the strong-
\
for building purposes, and increased to hold of Jesuitism, being their countrv' res-
'
such an extent that one tenth of the pres- idence for over 150 years. It is the largest
ent area of Paris is entirely undermined. burial-ground of the capital, and is beauti-
i
Several houses having sunk in the fau- fully situated in an undulating ground,
l
bourgs St. Jacques and St. Germain, the sun-ounded by valleys. From the highest
attention of the government was aroused, point a magnificent view of the city and
j
and the idea was conceived by M. Lenoir, its environs is obtained. This immense
i
performed on the 7th of April, 178G, and Abelard and Hcloiso, which stands on the
!
all the bones of the dead were collected first path to the right of the avenue. The
from the various churches and cemeteries principal monuments are that of La Fon-
of Paris, where they bad been accumula- taine, Molicre, Princess Demidoff, General
ting for centuries, and deposited in these Foy, Kellermann, Visconti, Arago, the as-
I
vaults the bones were brought in funereal tronomcr. Mademoiselle Duchesnois, the
; ,
cars, followed by priests chanting the serv- actress. Count Lavalette, Count de Rigny,
I
ice of the dead. It is calculated that these General St. Cyr, Viscount de Martignac,
vast caverns contain the remains of over Marshal Massena. Prince d'Essling. There
3.000,000 of human beings. The bones of is a pretty lot laid out as a garden, sur-
the legs and arms are laid closely in order, rounded by an iron railing, but containing
with their ends outward, and at regular no monument in :t lie the remains of
'
intervals skulls are interspersed in ranges, Marshal Ney Bra'imarchais, the drama-
:
;
so as to present alternate rows of back and tist Beranger, the poet Manuel, the ora-
'
; ;
front parts of the heads. Occasionally we tor; La Place, the astronomer; Marquis
perceive apartments arranged like chap- de Clermont-Gallerande. Ascending the
els, with skulls, arms, and legs. They hill, we see some very beautiful monu-
contain numerous inscriptions : among mcnts, among which are tlios-^ of Sydney
i
others rjc the Tombcau des Victimes, the Smith, Volucy, and others well known to
I
dent of the French Republic Marshal their vicinity with nearly corresponding
;
Vaillant ; Mr. George Borger, etc., etc. names, similar to the John Maria Farina
T'lr. Dumaresq, whose studio is No. 3 Rue at Cologne. Travelers should keep a wary
d"Offement, is a most agreeable and amia- eye on commissioners and valet-de-places.
ble man ; he has been decorated with the This is probably the onl}' house in Paris
Legion of Honor, and speaks English flu- which pays no commissions to any one.
ently. The Compagnie des Indes manufactures
its own laces from its own designs, and
374
Paris. [FRANCE.] Paris,
opposite the palace of the Duke of Bra- only equaled by its perfect finish. An-
bant. other was a charming landanlet an elegant ;
The jury of the Paris Exposition of 1867 coupe, which could be transformed into a
gave the golden medal and the Cross of beautiful Victoria with surprising facility.
the Legion of Honor to the chief of this Another landaulet Avith four places, for one
house, with this mention in the Monit iir horse, attracted much attention.
'''^Exceptional siqycrioiity in the fabrication We wish to give special advice to trav-
oflaces.''^ It is known that to obtain these elers who purpose going into apartments
rare distinctions great fineness and great in Paris for a few months or more. Nev-
finish in the work do not suffice, for these er, under any consideration, hire your lin-
can be reached by any fabricator, and is en. The rent for a few months will buy
merely a matter of money what the jury
; j
any thing you want. There is an immense
particularh' rewards is the superiority of establishment in Paris, Grande ^/aison de
design, the artistical perfection of the work, I
Blanc, 6 Boulevard des Capucines, where
the invention, the progress. I
all articles used by housekeepers in the
One of the great advantages of this ;
linen line arc sold for about half the ordi-
house, and what chiefly recommends it to nary prices, for the simple reason that this
us, is the perfect security for the purchaser, house has its own manufictory in nearly
the prices being really fixed and marked every department of goods for instance,
;
Fargo, & Co. They issue letters of credit luxe and for travelling, ivory carvings, etc.,
on the different European bankers, and from Vienna are to be seen in the greatest
have a house in Havre for the purpose of richness and variety.
facilitating their business. A visit should be paid to the establish-.
Dr. W. E. Johnson, the celebrated Ameri- ment of Mr. Th. Jones, 23 Boulevard des
can physician, has his rooms quite near the Capucines, where English dressing-cases,
Grand Hotel, No. 10 Boulevard Malesher- leather goods, brushes, smelling-bottles,
bes. and traveling-bags, are kept in great va-
Stationery and Articles de Luxe. —
One riety. Also the finest kinds of perfumery,
of the first houses in Paris is certainly among which is Jones's celebrated "Fluide
Love and Harvey's, 35 Boulevard des Capu- latif." The address of the London house
cines. opposite the Rue Scribe traveling-
; is 41 St. James Street, W.
k)\ "
>-if^
%.z^-
Uavai.
" i
m:^'W
[FRANCE.] Versailles.
of the United States, and buyers have the sailles. It lies twelve miles southwest
'
rising one above the other in a pyramidal used for the coronation of Charles XII.,
form. Below the l)asin of the Pyramid which is the same used by the present Em-
are the Batlis cfDiana^ the centre of which peror, being newly decorated for that pur-
represents the nymphs of Diana at bath. pose also the one used for the baptism of
;
Eugene, and the marriage of the present sonages of France up to the middle of the
Empress. seventeenth century. Adjoining is the
We now arrive at the Petit Trlanrm. Salle des Croisades^ containing pictures of
This manvsion was built hy LouLs XV. I'tr battles fought in the Holy Land during
his mistress, Madam du the build-
I3arri : the Crusades also monumental tombs of
;
in;^ is only 70 feet square.the first On grand masters of the Order of St. John of
door is a drawinj^-room, dining-room, bil- Jerusalem. In one of the rooms are the
liard-rcom, boudoir, bedchamber, dressing- cedar gates of the Hospital of the Knights
room, and antechamber; the second floor of St. John in the island of Pdiodes they
:
is used fur domestics. In the garden is a were presented to the Prince de Joinville
beautiful little theatre formerly used by by Sultan Mahmoud in I80G. Ascending
the court also a Swiss cottage erected b3'
; to the attic story, we find a room contain-
Mario Antoinette. Both the Trianons ma}' ing portraits of the celebrated literary men
be seen ever}' da}- except Friday. small A of France opposite are a number of rooms
:
fee is expected, especially on showing the containing historical portraits, coins, med-
state carriages. als, etc.
We nowreturn to the Palace. At the Descending again to the gallery of the
entrance, near the chapel, is an office where reign of Louis Philippe, containing histor-
guides ma}-^ be hired for one franc an hour. ical paintings up to the Revolution of 1830,
must heartily recommend them, even
"VN'e we now enter into the Grands Apparle-
if you have your courier, as much time menfs, which occupy the whole of the first
may be saved in using their services. The floor of the central projection facing the
palace is open every day except Mondays. : garden. Those on the north were occu-
Among the many historical collections con- pied by the king, those en the south by
tained in this immense palace, we will men- the queen. 'Ihey are i.U ornamented
tion only a few of the principal. In the with paintings illustrative of the life of
gail'.'ry of statuary, the most interesting is Louis XIV. Nearly adjoining are the
the statue of Joan of Arc, by the late Prin- Sail*" des Pfais Gt'neraux, the Salle de
cess Maria, duchess of Wiirtemberg; also V Abondance, Solan de }'enus ; the last con-
one in white marble, by Pradier, of the late tains the Three Graces by Pradier the
;
Duke of Orleans. In the Salle de Comtan- Salon de Diane, in which there is a hand-
tine is a splendid picture, the Taking of I
some portrait of Maria Theresa of Austria.
Constantinople, b}' Horace Vernet ; the Next is the Salon de Mars, formerly used
Surprise of Abdel Kader's Sniala, by the as a ballroom adjoining this is the Salon
:
Princess Koyal, and the Prince of Bavaria, ed with Corinthian pilasters of red mar-
sat down Emperor's box. The the-
in the ble in the niches are statues of Venus and
;
atre has lately been used for the sittings Adonis, Mercury and Minerva. To the
of the National Assembly. left of this hall lie the private apartments
Close to the theatre is a gallery contain- and the reserved apartments of the king.
ing statues and busts of the jnincipal per- From the window of one of these apart-
379
Versaiixics. [FRANCE.] Font A i n k b l k a u.
—
ments Cabinet des Chasses tlie royal fam- wing of the palace, we notice in the Esca-
ily usually sat to see the hunters return lier des Princes three fine marble statues,
from the chase, and the game counted in one of Napoleon I., one of Louis Philippe,
the cour des cerfs below. The door ad- and one of Louis XIV. Descending the
joining this M-indow is the one which ad- stairs we enter the Salle Xapoleon, con-
mitted ]SIadam du BaiTi from her apart- taining statues and busts of the Napoleon
ments above to the chamber of Louis XV. family. Then follows the Galerie de VEiru.
One of the most beautiful rooms, in fact, pire^ containing pictorial illustrations of
the gem of the palace, is the sleeping- the times of Napoleon I. In passing into
chamber of Louis XIV. the bed on which
: a gallery which runs behind the last, and
the great king died is still here. The which contains busts of all the celebrated
walls are adorned with portraits of differ- generals between 1789 and 1815, wc see a
ent members of the royal family, and the magnificent marble statue of General
ceiling covered with a painting, by Paul Hoche, by Milhomme.
Veronese, taken from the Doge's palace at After visiting the Galeries des Marines
Venice by Napoleon I. This room i.lfo and Galeries des Tombeaux, we enter into
contains a copy of the crown of Charle- the Grande Galerie des Batailles. This
magne. splendid gallery, 400 feet long, is devoted
Passing through a very beautiful room, to pictures representing the great battles
wc enter the
called the Salon de la Paix, of France, from the fifth up to the nine-
Ckimber a Coucher of Marie Anto'ineite. teenth century here may be seen many
:
This room was successively occupied by of the works of Horace Vernet, Gerard,
the three Marias Maria Theresa, queen
: David, and many other of France's great-
of Louis XIV., Maria Leczinska, queen of est artists. Adjoining is the Salle de 18o0,
Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette, queen illustrating the principal events of that
of Louis XVI. The unfortunate Marie revolution. Immediately behmd these
Antoinette was asleep in this room on the rooms is an immense gallery' filled with
night of the 5th October, 1789, when the statues and busts of celebrated personages.
mob burst into the palace. She made her From this gallerA^ we ascend to the Ai-
escape through a small corridor leading to tique du Midi: this suite of rooms is de-
the grand antechamber of the king. In voted to historical portraits. In the 4th
this room she gave birth to the Duchess room Americans will recognize portraits
d'Angouleme. The queen's state apart- of their countiymen, Henry Clay, Daniel
ments end with the Salon de Grande Convert Webster, Andrew Jackson, and James K.
de hi Reine and the Salle des Valets de p'ed Polk, Next to this gallery we have a very
de la Reine ; the last made notorious as be- interesting room, containing views of the
ing the spot on which the queen's guards Royal Resklences. After descending the
were butchered. magnificent Escalier de Marhre^ the niches
Leading from the escalier de marbre of Avhich are filled with busts and statues
which is considered the most magnificent of eminent men, we enter on the ground
—
in France is the Salle du Sacre. This floor a series of fourteen rooms, devoted to
saloon contains David's celebrated picture portraits of celebrated warriors, admirals,
of the Coronation of Napoleon, for which and marshals of France. From here we
he received $20,000. It also contains, in must peep into the Galerie des Rois ds
addition to several other valuable paint- France, -which contains the portraits of all
ing, Napoleon's Distribution of the Ea- the kings of France, from Pharamond to
gles to the Legions. After passing through Louis Philippe. Thert are numerous
two small rooms, which were formerly the smaller apartments, which, if the visitor
chapel of Louis XIII., or on the site of the have ample time, he might inspect but if
:
chapel, we enter one of the most interest- he have but one day to "do" Versailles,
ing saloons of the palace it is called Salle he will now feel like adjourning to the
:
di 1782. and contains portraits of all the Hotel de France, and partaking of a very
heroes of the Revolution of 17?-9, repre- excellent dinner.
senting many as before and after the es-
tablishment of the Empire. In passing fontaint:bleau.
from the Salle de 1782 to the southern Next to Varsailles in import ^n^e i=: the
380
ENVIRONS OF PARIS
LONTAINEBLEACJ. [FRANCE.] FoNTAi:SEBLEAa
Iiandsome town of Fontainehkau. The the time he took his departure for Elb>
name is derived from a delicious spring of The event has been commemorated by the
water found on the site of the present town celebrated picture "Les Adieux des Fon-
orer one thousand years since, and named tainebleau." An inscription in the court
\>j the thirsty huntsmen Fontaine Belle also records the affecting scene.
Kau. Tlie present town, containing a pop- One of the principal apartments in the
ulation of 10,000 inhabitants, owes its j
palace is the Galerie de Franrois J. It was
formation to the chateau or palace, which !
built in 1530 by the king whose name it
Vv'as one of the most ancient royal res- bears. Its ceiling and wainscoting are of
idences of France. The town is situated oak, covered with beautiful gilded sculp-
about fortj^-two miles southeast from P;.ris, tures. The walls are frescoed, and sur-
and may be reached in one hour and forty rounded with l)as-reliefs. Next follows
minutes by the Lyons Railway. Omni- the Appariements des Reines-M'eres. These
buses are at the station to convey you to were the apartments occupied by Pius VII,
the town but to see the scenery of the
; while detained by his imperial jailer they ;
forest a carriage must be employed, and are beautifully adorned with specimens of
a bargain made beforehand. The usual Gobelin tapestry. They comprise the Sa~
price is, for carriages, 12 francs per day Ion dWtttnte, Salle de Reception, and Cham-
saddle-horses, (J f. ; donkey's, 2 f. —
bre a Coucher this last was the nuptial
It is didicult to lix the date of the first chamber of the Duchess of Orleans ; Cabi-
royal residence here with any degree of net de Toilette and Calinet de Travail dz
certainty. It is certain that Louis VII. \
Pius VII. ; this last leads into the bed-
resided here in the 12th century. The chamber of Anne of Austria. This room
present chateau was commenced by Fran- is elal;orately carved and gilt; it is the
cis I. in the Kith century. It was repair- same occupied by tlie Emperor Charles V.
ed by Henri IV., at a cost of $500,000.
"^
j
when he visited Francis I. in the IGth cen-
Napoleon I. spent 81,200,000; and in l.sSl tury. It was in this room that Napoleon
Louis Philippe hud it complctelj' restored I. tried to persuade Pope Pius VII. to re-
at an enormous expense. It has been the sign his temporal power.
theatre of some of the most remarkable By the private staircase we arrive at the
events of French history. Here it was private apartments, comprising the Ante-
that Napoleon signed liis abdication in the chambre, Cabinet Particulier, Cabinet du
presence of the remnants of his imperial Secretaire, Cabinet de Travail, and Salle des
guards. The divorce between the Emper- Bains. In tlie cabinet particulier the Em-
or and Josephine was pronounced here. peror signed his abdication. The table
In 1812 Napoleon retained Pope Pius VII. upon which he signed it is now covered
captive in this palace for the space of eight- over Avith a glass case to protect it from
een months. Charles IV., king of Spain, the sacrilegious relic -hunter. The Salle
ivho was dethroned by Napoleon, was de- du TrCne is a splendidly decorated apart-
tained a captive here for twenty-four days. ment. From the ceiling hangs a magnifi-
Queen Christine of Sweden had her secre- cent lustre of rock-cry still, worth $25,000.
tary, Monaldeschi, assassinated here by her 1
It also contains the tible on whicli the ^lar-
j
orders. In 1G86 Louis XIV. here signed shals of France formerly took the oath of
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The I
allegiance, and a very correct portrait of
great Condo died here at the age of %(S. Louis XIII. by Philipi)C! de Champagne.
\
Here, in 17G5, the only son of Louis XV. Adjoining the thrunc-room is a lu)udoir,
[
tent, inclosing four different courts. The Aurora. In the centre of tlie lioor may be
principal one, formerly known as the Cour seen the cipher of Marie Antoinette. The
j
du Cheval Blanc^ but now as the Cour des window-fastenings were all manufactured
—
\
Adieitx so called from Napoleon, in the by her husband, Louis XVI. The next
centre of tiiis court, having taken leave of room was her chambre ii coucher; it has
the remnant of his Old Guard, m ho had been successively occupied by Maria Louisa
followed him through all adversity up to and Maria Amelie.
Vol. [.-R 2 381
FOXTAINEBLEAU. [FRANCE.] FONTAINEHLEAU.
unfortunate secretary of Queen Christine cut up and sold for lets. The Empress
of Sweden was murdered by order of his Josephine's remains were interred in the
mistress. It is also necessary to procure town of Rueil, close y. Her son Eugene,
I
a special permission to visit the library, and daughter Hortense, mother of the late
which is well worth seeing. A fee of Emperor, erected a beautiful monument to
about 2 francs is expected by the person her memory. It is of white marble, ex-
ehoAviug the palace. ecuted by Cartellier.
i It consists of an
In the FarJc and Gardens, the objects arch supported by four columns resting on
most worthy of notice are, first, UElang, a basement. The Empress is kneeling in
j
or great pond, famous for its carp, which the act of prayer. An inscription is on the
are of enormous size and great age. In basement, "^ Josephine, Eugene ei Ilor-
the middle of the pond is a beautiful pavil- tcnsey Opposite to this stands the monu-
ion, constructed by Francois I. There is a ment erected by the present Emperor to
'
canal 1£0 feet broad and 4000 long, Avhich his mother. It is likewise of white mar-
I
traverses the whole extent of the park. ble, and of nearly the same design as the
It is fed by springs from the garden. Hero other. It represents the queen kneeling.
ma}"^ be seen the famous Chasselas grapes ;
On the basement is the inscription, " A la
;
the vines cover a wall nearly a mile long. Reine Hortense, son.fils Napoleon III.''' The
I
They were introduced by Francois I. The little church which contains tliese monu-
I'ori st of Fontainehleau contains over40,000 ments is quite ancient, having been b'uilt
acres, and is sixty-three miles in circum- in the year 1584, at the expense of Cardi-
ference. It is principally covered with nal Richelieu. To visit the church, you
broom-heath and underwood, although it take the St. Germain Railroad. From the
contains many groves of oak, beech, and road to the village the distance is about
black firs. The finest point of view in the half a mile. About half a league farther
'
382
FOXTAINEBLEAU. [FRANCE.] FOXTAIXEBLEAU.
leon I., as Avell as of the ])rescnt Emperor. trees. The grand cascade of St. Cloud is
Queen Victoria was received and enter- divided into the higher and lower cascades ;
tained here by the Emperor in 1855. The they are heautirully ornamented with dol-
event is commem'irated by a large paint- phins, shell-work, etc. The grand jfi
ing by Muller. It hung in the Escalier d'eau, to the left of the cascades, at the ex-
d'lJoimcJir. The figures are the (Jueen tremity of the long avenue, rises from a
and I'rincL^ Alix rt, the Emperor and Em- circular basin to the enormous height of
press, and Lord (,'liircndon. 110 feet, and discharges aOuO gallons per
J
One of th ])rincipal saloons in the pal- minute. The waters generally play every
;
i
ace of St. Cloud was the Galerie dWpollon. second Sunday of the month in summer.
It was of immense size ; the ceiling was On one of the finest spots in the park Na-
painted in exquisite style, and represented ])oleon I. erected a tall square tower called
Apollo. It cuntained a beautiful marble the Lanterji of Diogenes, a copy of the mon-
statue of the Empress Josephine. It was ument of Lysicrates at Athens, from the
I
in this saloon that the marriage of the Em- summit of which a splendid view of the
I
'
883
St. Denis. [FHAXCE.] ViNCENNES.
ulation is now about 5000. It is princi- Barriere du Trane, leads to the town. Its
pally celebrated for its magnificent impe- origin dates from Philip Augustus, who in-
rial manufactory of porcelain, known as closed the forest with strong walls, and
Sevres-ware. This establishment has been built a royal residence at the extremity.
in existence since 1737, and has been in St. Louis administered justice under a
the hands of the government for over 100 large tree in the forest, where a stone pyr-
years. The show-rooms and museum may amid has been erected to commemorate the
be Ansited daily (Sundays and holidays ex- event. Philippe de Yalois, in 1337, de-
cepted) without a ticket but to visit the molished the old building and commenced
;
work-shops a ticket is absolutely neces- the present chateau. In the centre stands
sary this may be obtained by addressing a donjon, which the cruel Louis XI. con-
;
M. le Ministi^e d'Etat. You are obliged to stituted a state prison here the brave and
;
put yourself under the charge of a guide, gallant Henry V. of England, after being
who expects a fee. This is one of the proclaimed King of France, took up his
most valuable institutions of the French residence, and died after a brief reign of
government being mostly devoted to ex- two years. The donjon is built entirely
;
periments in the art for the benefit of pri- of stone and iron its walls are seventeen
;
vate manufacturers, it never has paid its feet in thickness. A magnificent view
expenses. It employs nearly 200 women. may be had from the top. In the vaults
The show-rooms, which are six in number, below is the Salle de la Question, where the
contain many valuable specimens of per- tortures were put while the unfortunate
fection in the art: tea-sets worth $3000 victims were being questioned. Among
and $4000 copies from Raphael, Michael the principal prisoners confined here were
;
Angelo, Guido, and Titian, worth from Henry IV., king of Navarre, Maria Lou-
j
$5000 to 610,000, equal to an}- copies on isa, daughter of the Duke of Xevers, the
j
canvas. There are also many beautiful Princes of Conde and Conti, Prince Edward,
!
specimens of stained glass, the manufac- son of the Pretender, the Due dEnghien,
ture of which was erroneously supposed to and many of the conspirators of May, 1848.
;
be lost. The museum consists of twelve Opposite the donjon stands the church La
rooms, containing specimens from all coun- Sainte Chapclle : the spire of the turret is
1
tries and at all periods, of clay, earthen- surmounted by a crescent, the emblem of
;
scription of the process of manufacture, nor the blue ribbons which decorate her hair.
does it coma within our province. But There is a splendid monument erected to
enter the work-shops by all means. They the memory of the unfortunate Due d'En-
are on the ground floor, and, if you Avish ghien, who was shot in 1804. Over a draw-
"to purchase (which you may do in the bridge you pass into the extensive gar-
show-room), remember that porcelain man- dens, beautifully ornamented with statues
ufactured here is the finest in the world. and fountains. Here Louis XIV. heard
The town suflfered much by the German accidentally of the secret passion Mile, de
and civil war of 1871. la Valliere entertained for him, and took
St. Denis, see route 111. advantage of the information he was re-
;
nal, an armory containing some G0,000 the other is held the first Sunday after the
stand of arms, witli an immense number 30th of August, and is called the Fete des
of pistols, pikes, and swords. Here are Loges, which also lasts three days. There
also powder ma-razines, a park of artillery, are some 20 trains per day, in 40 minutes
and eavalry barracks. Durin;:; the months from the station St. Lazare fare 1 fr. 60 c.
;
of July, Aui,nist, and Septeml)er. officers St. Ouen, on the road to St. Denis. This
from the different regiments practice artil- village is situated in one of the finest plains
lery firing: three times a week. To oJitain in the vicinity of Paris. It was a favorite
permission to see the chateau, a written or- residence of King John, who erected a cha-
der is necessary to procure which, address,
; teau here in 1331. It was the place where
during the earl}- part of the Aveek, M. le the Knights of Malta held their annual
Commandant de V Artillerie du 1st Arron- meetings. The chateau passed successive-
dissement at Vincennes. ly into the hands of Charles VI., LouisXL,
St. —
O.rmain. This town of 15,000 in- the monks of St. Denis, and Louis XIII.,
habitants lies 13^ miles west of Paris it; who Count d'Evreux. It
presented it to
is remarkable for the beauty of its posi- was still by Mme. Pompa-
later inhabited
tion. Hotel Pavilion Henri [ V. It derives dour. Louis XVIII. presented it to Ma-
its name from the Abbey of St. Germain, dame du Cayla, and stopped here on his re-
founded by King Iiobort in 1010. Francis turn to Paris in 1814, and here signed the
J. built a splendid palace, and made it a charter. Declaration de St. Ouen, wherein he
royal residence; his son Henri II. was promised a charter to the people. In this
born here. Charles IX. and Louis XIV. village are immense subterranean store-
Avere also born at St. Germain ;the great houses for corn, where it can be kept un-
Louis XIII. died here. Louis XIV. re- damaged for years. It also possesses a
sided here for some time after the death of mammoth ice-house for supplying Paris
his mother, Anne of Austria, and when with ice.
Madam de Montespan had supplanted Neuilly. —
This beautiful village is situ-
Mile, de la Valliere in his aflections, he ated west of Paris, about two miles from
presented the palace to her as a residence. the Barriere de I'Etoile. It is famous on
Louis afterward assigned it to James II. account of its splendid bridge, which is con-
of England, Avho held the semblance of a sidered one of the finest in Franco and
court here for twelve years he died in the
; in all Europe it is 750 feet long, composed
;
palace. There was a monument erected of five arches of 120 feet span, and 30
to his memory by George IV. of Enizland ;
feet high. This was the favorite sunmier
it stands in the parish church situated in residence of Louis Philippe up to the time
the Place du Chateau, opposite the palace. of the Revolution of 1«48. There is a
The room where he died is shown also ; monument erected in the park marking
the bedchamber of INIadam de la Valliere, the spot where a cannon ball fell at his feet
with the trap-door in the tloor where the in 1830 it was fired from the Bois de Bou-
:
youthful king gained admittance after his logne. A few days subsequently a depu-
mother, Anne of Austria, had the back tation presented the crown of France tr>
stairs walled up. There is nothing partic- him on the same spot: he was then Duke
ularly interesting about St. Germain, if of Orleans. During the revolution a mob
Avc except the beautiful terrace or parterre, broke into the palace and penetrated to the
a maunilicent walk 100 feet wide by one wine-cellars, which contained large quan-
and a half miles in length. It is orna- tities of wine. In the midst of the general
mented with shrubs and flowers, and sha- intoxication that prevailed the palace was
ded by lofty chestnut trees. Behind the set on fire, and a great part of it destroyed.
terrace extends the forest of St. Germain, Numbers of the mob, unal)le to escape,
which covers a surface of 10,000 acres, and were either drowned in a well in the cel-
has a circuit of over 20 miles. It is one lar or sutVucatcd by smoke. The town suf-
of the largest in France, and well stocked fered most severely during the reign of the
with deer and does. There are two fairs Commune in 1871 few of the houses were
;
good for 40 or 45 days, to diflferent parts chatel, Pontarlier, Besan9on, Dijon, and
of France and Switzerland, by means of Paris.
which travelers may make the tours at The Chemins de Fer de V Quest, or Western
one half the usual cost. These tickets al- Railway of France, give tickets to most all
low the traveler to stop at all the stations their stations from Saturday to Monday at
mentioned on the following lists he may ;
about three quarters the ordinary fare. Their
also stop at any intermediate stations on monthly circular tours, from 50 to 120 frs.,
the line, but in that case must leave his are a great saving, allowing a stay at all the
ticket w4th the head official of the station beautiful sea-side resorts in the north and
at which he may stop, to remain in his northwest of France. Their first-class tidal-
hands during the entire length of his stay. train fare to London, via Dieppe and New-
First Circular Tickets. — Issued from the haven, is but 41 fr. 25 c, and the return
1st of June to the 1st of October, and good ticket, available one month, is but 68 fr. 75 c.
for 40 days. Price, first class, 255 francs The station (Gare St. Lazare) is but a few
;
second class, 190 francs. On the borders minutes' walk from the Grand Hotel.
of the Gulf of Gascony, in the south of The International Sleeping-car Company s
France^ and in Svntzerland. From Paris to offices are at No. 2 Rue Scribe, under the
Bordeaux, Arcachon, Biarritz, Hendaye, Grand Hotel. Their cars now run on most
Pau, Lourdes, Pierrefitte, Tarbes, Bag- of the great Continental express lines, and
neres-de- Bigorre, Montrejeau, Luchon, are fitted up with great care to elegance
Toulouse, Foix, Albi, Rodez, Capdenac, and comfort. Travelers will save trouble
Aurillac, Arvant, Clermont-Ferrand, Vi- by taking their tickets in advance both for
chy, Saint-Etienne, Puy, Lyons, Geneva, the railwa}' and sleeping-car. Agencies
Lausanne, Freiburg, Berne, Bienne, Neuf- have been established in most of the large
chatel, Pontarlier, Besan9on, Dijon, Fon- cities, and station-masters sell tickets in
tainebleau, to Paris. towns where no agency exists. These
—
Second Circular Tickets. Issued from agencies register baggage, cash letters of
the 1st of June to the 1st of October, good credit, and place a great many conven-
for 45 days. Price, first class, 315 francs iences at the disposal of travelers.
;
second class, 235 francs. In the Pyrenees, Paris to Cologne at 8 P.M. (10.30 P.M.
on the shores of the Mediterranean, and in return) fare, 15 frs. ; to Calais, 10.5 P.M.;
Tours, Saumur, Angers, Bressuire, Kiort, P.:\I. (11 P.M. ret.) ; 10 frs. ;—to Bordeaux,
Poitiers, Angouleme, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Irun, Madrid, 8.20 P.M., 7.18 A.M., and
Biarritz, Hendaye, Pau, Lourdes, Pierre- 1.35 P.M. (5 P.M., 12.20 P.M., and 5.50
fitte, Tarbes, Bagneres-de-Bigorre, Montre- P.M. ret.) 24, 34, and 54 frs. ;—io Frank-
;
jeau, Luchon, Toulouse, Foix, Port-Ven- fort, 7.50 P.M. (5 P.M. ret.) 15 frs. ;— to ;
dres, Cette, Ximes, Aries, Marseilles, Tou- Avricourt, Strasburg, 3Iunich, and Vienna,
lon, Frejus, Cannes, Grasse, Nice, Mentone 8.35 P.M. (8 P.M. ret.) 33 fr. 75 c. •,—to ;
thence back to Marseilles, Rognac, Aix, Lyons, Marseilles, and Nice, 7 P.M. (I.IG
Avignon, Lyons, Geneva, Lausanne, Frei- P.M. from Mentone) 21 fr. 10 c, 35 fr. 55 c, ;
Southern France and in Svntzerland. Paris via Pontoise, time, 5 h. 18 m. fare, 20 fr. 65 c. ;
to Yichy, Clermont-Ferrand, Pu}', Nimes, Leaving Paris from the St. Lazare ter-
Cette, Port-Vendres, Toulouse, Foix, Mon- minus, the railwaj^ passes under the Place
trejeau, Luchon, Tarbes, Bagneres-de-Bi- de I'Europe and the Bagnolles, and emer-
gorre, Pierrefitte, Lourdes, Pau, Biarritz, ges into an open plain, soon reaching the
Hendaye, Arcachon, Bordeaux, to Cette, station of Colombes, a small village where
Marseilles, Cannes, Grasse, Mentone, Rog- the widow of Charles I. passed her last
nac, Aix, Avignon, Lyons, Geneva, Lau- moments of privation and povert3% At
sanne, Freiburg, Berne, Bienne, Neuf- Maisons is a fine chateau, in which Voltaire
POISSY. [FRANCE.] ROCEN.
wrote his " Zaire," and where he so nearlj'- Gai'lon was formerly the residence of
ended his days during an attack of small- the archbishops of Rouen, but the site of
pox. is now occupied by an im-
their palace
Poissy (4973 inhabitants) was the birth- mense penitentiar}'. The ruins of Chateau
place of St. Louis, born here in 1215. His Gaillard, the favorite castle of Richard
baptismal font may still be seen in the Cceur de Lion, stand on a rock washed by
parish church, an interesting old edifice, the Seine, several miles to tlie north of the
mostly of the 12th century. The bridge over town. From St. Pierre du Vauvray, the
the Seine, consisting of 37 different sized next station, a branch line runs to Evreux
arches, is said to have been built b}'- St. (Route No. 113), passing through Louviers,
Louis three of the central arches were
; a town on the banks of the Eure, contain-
I
blown up in 1815 to prevent the passage ing 11,707 inhabitants. Of these, from
A conference Avas held at
I
Poissy in 1561, the first meeting being at- ployed in the cloth manufactories and
I
tended by Charles IX. and Catherine de' spinning-mills, Louviers, Sedan, and El-
I
Medici; its object was the adjustment of bceuf being the three principal cloth-
j
the difficulties between the Romish and working towns in France. Returning to
I
Calvinistic churches, but the parties soon the main line, we reach. Pont de PArche,
separated without any approach toward Avhence a branch line runs to Gisors, pass-
reconciliation. ing Romilbj, the site of the most extensive
whence a railway branches off
^fdiites, copper-works in France. Oissel is the last
to Caen and Cherbourg, is a town of 5;545 station before reaching Rouen, from which
inhabitants, situated on the borders of tlie place it is but twenty minutes distant.
Seine. The church of Notre Dame, some- Rouen, the Rotomagus of the Romans, is
what resembling Notre Dame of Paris, is reached in two hours and forty minutos
the principal building of interest tlie ;
j
from Paris. Fare, 16 fr. 75 c.
western tower, built for St. Louis and his j
Omnibuses run to all parts of the city.
motlicr, Blanche of Castile, has been re- [There are tliree very good hotels. Grand
stored. The castle of the French kings \fldiel d' Albion^ 16 Quai de la Bourse, good
formerly existing here was destroyed by [house, on the river. En^^dish and French
the Regent Duke of Orleans in it Henry; newspapers. The population of Rouen
IV. held the conference with the clergy is 102,649, amounting with the suburbs
which ended in his conversion to the faith to 150,000, it being one of the largest
of the Romanists. Not far from Rnsny towns in France it is situated on the
;
station, three miles from Mantes, stands a right bank of the Seine, and is connect-
chateau, the birthplace and abode of Sully, ed with its suburb St. Sever by an iron
where frequent visits were made by Henry and stone bridge. Tlie Seine at this spcft
IV. to his friend. Tiiis edifice, rebuilt by is over one thousand feet wide. The first
Sully at the beginning of the 17th century, bridge erected here was in 1168, by Matil-
was 'from 1818 to 1830 the favorite resi- da, daughter of Henry I. The suspension
dence of the Duchesse do Berri, who erect- bridge was erected in 1846. There is an
ed a chapel here in which was buried the arch in this bridge eighty feet high, to al-
heart of her husband. At Vernon (7787 low vessels to pass. The old streets are
inhabitants) is an extensive establishment \ery narrow, and the houses built of wood ;
for the construction of baiTacks. artillery but the new part of the town is very hand-
carriages, etc. The Cliateau de Bizy, near some, and has many public edifices and
the town, and one of the finest seats in fountains. The traveler who wishes to
Normandy, was first built l)y the Marechal see Rouen thoroughly Avill find plenty to
de Belle-Isle. From him it passed to the occupy his time for two or three days but ;
Counts of Eu, and then to the Due de most of our sightseers spend but one day,
Penthievre, to whom it belonged at the and some not even that, all being anxious
time of its destruction during the French to reach Paris as early as possil)le. A
Revolution. The place is now the property boulevard occupying the site of the old
of M. Schicklcr, and the ancient chateau fortifications runs around the old town, and
has been replaced by a chateau in the stvlc includes within its circuit all the objects
of Louis XIV. of curiosity worth seeing. The chief edi-
387
ROCES. [FRANCE.] ROUEK.
a splendid monument
fice is the Cathedral, tomb of Alexana Bameval, the mas-
I
the
of Gothic architecture, containing many
ter mason, who was executed for the mur-
fine sculptures and monuments, among der of his apprentice, who had eclipsed him
which is the tomb of Richard Coeur de in the execution of the north window in
Lion. His Aec/r/ only is buried here. He the transept. In the public garden, wliich
bequeathed that to the city of Rouen on extends along the north side of this church,
account of the great love he bore the Nor- stands a Norman tower built in the 11th
mans, but his body was interred at Foute- j
centur}'; it is in a very good state of per-
vrault. His heart is buried under the pave- I
fection, St. Ouen was one of the early
ment of the choir. His effigy is of lime- archbishops of Rouen, and was bom in the
stone, but was much mutilated bj' the Hu- I
forepart of the 7th century-.
guenots in 1663. It stands in the Lad}' {
The Hotel de Ville was formerh' part of
Chapel behind the high altar and rep- ; the monastery of St. Ouen, and is attached
resents him crowned, dressed in his royal to the church. It contains the public of-
robes. The statues of the two Cardinals fices, the public library, and the picture-
d'Amboise, one of whom was minister to gallery. The principal pictures, and they
Louis XII., also stand in this chapel. I
are few, are Van Ej-ck's Virgin and Child,
Here, too, we find the monument of the a cop}' of Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto,
Due de Brize, husband of Diana of Poi- the original of which is in the picture-gal-
tiers, by whom it was erected. She was no- lery of Dresden, and cost $40,000 St. ;
torious as being the mistress of Henry II. Francis, by Caracci, The Plague at Milan
The monument is from the chisel of Jean of Lemoinere. The Musee des Antiquites,
Goujon, and represents the duke stretched ill Rue Beauvoisiere, is one of the most in-
on a sarcophagus of black marble, with his teresting places in the city. It contains
widow kneeling at his head. The Cathe- many curiosities of voluntary contribu-
dral surmounted by two towers, the one
is tions, among which is the door of the
called Tour de Biurre, on account of its house in which Corneille was born and ;
was melted during the Revolution to make Pucelle is famous as the place where Joan
I
guns. The other tower, called St. Romain, of Arc was burned at the stake.
I
A mon=
rests on the oldest part of the church. ument is here erected to her memor}- to
j
One of the finest and most perfect Goth- mark the place where she suflFered. This
I
Roussel in the 14th century. It is far su-she Saved, and who made no attempt to
I
perior to the Cathedral, not only in size, random her, or protest against her trial
'
but in style and ornament it is inferior, and to her countryman the cruel Bishop
;
however, as regards historical monuments. of Beauvais, her unjust judge, and those
It suffered much in the 16th century from who sold her to the English at Compeigne.
the Huguenot rabble, who blackened its Although her enthusiasm saved the coun-
j
beautiful windows with smoke arising try, after she w^as delivered to the English
from the bonfires they had built in the neither her king nor countrymen appear
\
centre of the church to burn the furniture to have remembered her. After she was
The central tower is 260 feet high, and is burned her ashes were cast into the Seine
j
should decidedly make the ascent of this Rouen is the see of an archbishop, and
tower it w ill repay them for their trouble. contains his palace also an Exchange,
; ;
The interior is 443 feet long and 100 high, Custom-house, Mint, and two theatres. It
and is a perfect pattern of airy graceful- contains a University, Academy for the
ness. In St. Agnes chapel mav be seen Department also a secondary school of
I
;
388
Dieppe. [FRANCE.] Enghien,
Medicine, a national College, and primary I sculpture and paintings. Two flights of
Normal School. Altogether it is one of the I steps lead down to the cript, Avherc arc
most industrious and commercial cities of ',
the wars of the Fronde, may be seen on a the hi^h altar. In 1785 a decree was pass-
hill above the village. On reaching Dieppe ed to raze the church to the ground but ;
the railway runs down to the quay, direct- this act of vandalism was arrested by Na-
ly opposite the steamers to Xewhaven, poleon I., who had it repaired as a place
which cross day and night. Time, 6 hours. of sepulture fur the princes of his own dy-
Passengers can thus step directly from nasty. Among the magnificent monu-
the railway carriages to the steamer, reach- ments contained in th's ancient church are
ing London from Paris m
about 14 hours, those of Henry II, and Catherine de" Medi-
at an expense of 41 fr. 25 c, first class. ci, Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany that :
This route is some forty per cent, cheaper of Francis II., husband of Mary, queen of
than by Boulogne, and through tickets al- Scots this is surrounded by weeping an-
:
low passengers to break their journey at gels ; it was erected by his unfortunate
Dieppe or Rouen, seven days being the wife, Henry III,, who was assassinated
limit of time for the journey, "With return by Jacques Clement Due de Berri, who
;
beheaded on Montmartre for propagating addition to the numbers who visit the place
the Christian faith. Abbe Suger built the yearly to try the efiicacy of its waters, it is a
towers, porch, and vestibule of the present great dinner resort for parties de chain-
church in 1130 the nave was erected by
; \
pagne, as several hours may be very pleas-
order of St. Louis. The lower portion of ;
antly spent of an afternoon rowing upon
the church is beautifull}-- ornamented with I
the lake or walking in the park of St, Gra-
389
Montmorency. [FRANCE.] Harfleur.
years the residence of Jean Jacques Rous- (From Paris to Rouen, and description
seau, who wrote here his '-Xouvelle He- of that city, see Route 111).
loise." Gretry, the composer, afterward Leaving Rouen, the train runs across a
lived and died in the same house, which country richly studded with mills and fac-
has since been enlarged and modernized. tories, showing the progress of the cotton
Passing through E?-mont, whence a branch trade, and after stopping at Malaunay and
line runs through ArgenteuU to Paris, we Barentin, reaches
reach Herhlay. An excursion may be made Yvetot, a town containing about 8873 in-
from this station to St. Leu-Tavemy, once habitants, but boasting of little to interest
celebrated for its chateau and park, which the traveler. A diligence runs from here
belonged before the Revolution to the Duke to AUonville, a small place celebrated for a
of Orleans, and which was given afterward giant oak, said to be 900 years old, which
to Queen Hortense by Napoleon I. After stands in the cemetery ;a chapel to the
the Restoration the Duke of Bourbon be- Virgin has been built in the upper part.
came the owner, and put an end to his days The road now runs through the Pays de
here —
hanging himself to a window-bolt Caux, which derives its name from the Ca-
in his bedroom. The chateau was later letes, the ancient inhabitants in the time
sold to the Bande Noire, who destroyed the of Caesar. It is a high and exceedingly
building and sold its materials. An oc- fertile table-land, with a scarcity of trees,
tagonal monument, erected by the Orleans intersected here and there by water-courses,
family, now marks the site of the home of which serve to turn the numerous cotton
the Condes. In the village church, re- mills which abound in this part of the
built by Napoleon III. in 1853, lie four of country. From
—
that emperor's ancestors Charles of Cor- j
Bolbec-Nointot, the next station, the town
sica, father of Napoleon I. Louis, king
; of Bolbec, two miles distant, is reached by
of Holland (father of Napoleon III.), and i
omnibus. This is an ugly, brick - built
two of his brothers. Marshal Ne}'^ also town of 10,201 inhabitants, all engaged in
lies buried here. Pontoise, a town of some 1
the calico manufactories or in the cotton
GOOO inhabitants, is five miles distant from mills. Passing through the station of Ben-
Herblay. It is a place of some historical ; zeville, we next reach St. Romain, whence
importance, but possesses little to interest the traveler may visit Tancarville, ten
the traveler, Gisors (3753 inhabitants), sit^ i
miles distant. Here, on a high cliff over-
uated on the banks of the Epte, contains looking the Seine, stands the former strong-
I
the ruins of a castle, parts of which date hold of the chamberlains of the Dukes of
from the 12th century, and were built by j
Normand}'. The modern castle is a large
Henr}' II. of England. Here an interview stone building, erected by Louis de la Tour
took place between Louis VII. and Henr\', d'Auvergne, count of Evreux, in 1709.
at which both monarchs agreed to wear Back of this stretch two long lines of tow-
the cross for the recover}^ of Jerusalem. ers, which formed with their connecting
Four miles from Gournrnj. the next station, walls the former castle courts, now filled
is the abbey church of St. Germer, dating with grass-grown ruins. The older part
from the 12th century. This building is of the castle dates from the early part of
as large as a cathedral, but is fast going to the 15th century, the one which previous-
ruin. Passing through Serquenx and ly existed having been destroyed by the
Neufchatel - en - Bray, renowned for its English in 1437. It is now the property
cream-cheese, we reach Arques, four miles of M. de Lambertye, a descendant of the
from Dieppe, whose castle has been already Montmorencies.
described in an excursion from the latter Returning to the main line we reach
citv. HarjUur, a small town of 1750 inhabit-
ants, situated on the Lezarde, two miles
above its entrance intn the Seine. Har-
390
Havre. [FRANCE.] Etretat.
fleur was the port of Paris before the foun- result. Havre also the birthplace of
is
dation of Havre, and was then an impor- Madame de la Fayette. In 15G2 the lead-
tant fortress, the key to the entrance of er of the Huguenots, Prince of Conde, put
the Seine. It was captured by Henry V. Queen Elizabeth in possession of the town,
in 1415, after a memorable sie.^e of forty and the command devolved upon the Earl
days. After its surrender he drove the in- of "Warwick. It was besieged by Mont-
habitants from the town Avith only their morency with vastly superior numbers.
clothes, confiscating all their property. Warwick held out until three fourths of
The town then remained in the possession the entire garrison were slain, when he
of the English until twenty years later, himself was shot in the breast immediate-
;
when it was surprised bj' some of its for- ly afterward the place surrendered. One
mer inhabitants, aided by the peasantry of of the most conspicuous buildings in the
the country, and the English were driven city is the theatre, situated in Place Louis
out. From the Chateau d'Orcher, on the XVI., at the end of the Bassin du Com-
heights above, there is a splendid view of merce. There is also a verj^ fine commercial
the river and surrounding countr3\ club here, called the Cerde du Commerce.
From Harfleur the railroad to Havre runs Strangers may be introduced by members.
alongside a hill and passes Graville, where All the European and American papers
there is a small abbey church of Norman are kept there. Steamers leave almost
architecture, dating from the 12th centur3^ daily for the following places London,
:
to Marseilles, the most important city in From there you may see, near Cape la
France, commercial!}^ viewed. The har- Hove, the rocks that were the favorite haunt
bor is the best on this part of the French of Bernardin do St. Pierre, author of "' Paul
coast. It consists of three basins, sepa- and Virginia," who was born in Havre.
rated from each other and from the outer Paris lies 108 Uiiles to the southeast. A
port by four locks, and is capable of ac- handsome Museum and Public Library has
commodating 500 ships. The town was been erected on the Quay, at the end of the
founded by Francis I. in 1516, but owes Rue de Paris, with two bronze statues, by
its prosperity to Louis XVI. Some au- David, at the entrance, of Bernardin de St.
thors say it was founded by Louis XII. Pierre and Casimir Dolavigne, both natives
in 1509. There are numerous steam-pack- of the town.
ets plying between Havre and all the ports From Havre the traveler may go by rail
of France, United States, England, Russia, along the coast to Fecamp and Dieppe,
and Holland; in fact, the connnerce of passing en route the station for Etretat.
Havre, which may be called the port of To roach the latter sea-port the train sbonld
Paris, is connected with all parts of the be left at Les Jfs Etretat, Avhore public con-
world. It has no monuments, and few fine veyances may be obtained to complete the
public buildings, and, being a modern town, journey, a distance of ten miles. Etretat
lias but few historical associations. Its has become witiiin the last thirty years a
citadel was by Cardinal Kichelieu, and
built fashionable watering-place, having been
in it in tiie leaders of the Fronde
1G50 before that time a mere fishing village
Prince of Conde and Longiieville — were greatly frequented by artists. The coast
imprisoned. On the expulsion of Mazarin scenery is most beautiful, the chalk cliffs
from power they regained tiicir liherty. having been worked by the waters into
It was from Havre that Kichmond em- most fantastic forms, and the bathing is
barked with troops furnished bv Charles very good. Hotels, Grand Cerj\ des Bains,
VI IL to meet Richard on Bos worth Field. and Deux A ugustins.
|
There is also a good
Every reader of Shakspeare knows the casino. :
391
Fecamp. [FRANCE.] LiSIEUX.
This is a manufacturing town as Avell as a the chateau of Navarre, in which the Em-
sea-port. There is a tine abbey church in press Josephine resided a great portion of
the centre of the town, datini^ from the 12th ,
her time after her divorce.
and 13th centuries, and built in the Early After leaving Evreux, whence a branch
Pointed style within there are some mon-
; line runs to Louviers, the railway crosses
uments worthy of notice. A light-house the Iton and stops at Bonneville, where the
stands on the top of the clifi at the back ruins of the Abbaye de la Xoe, founded in
of the town, whose lantern, 425 feet above 1144 by the Empress Mathilde, daughter
the sea, is visible from a distance of 190 of Henry I., may be seen. From Serqu'g-
miles. Xear the light-house is a Gothic ny, three stations farther on, a branch line
chapel, Notre Dame da Salut, a place of runs to Brionne and Rouen. From Brioune
pilgrimage for seafaring persons, and to the ruins of the Abbaye de Bee may ba
which the wives of fishermen often ascend visited. In the church lie the remains of
on their knees. The Etablissement ds Hellouin, the founder and there are also
;
Bahis. with a hotel attached, stands on the some statues worthy of notice. The mon-
beach to the west of the town, and back astery buildings are now occupied as a
of it are chalets surrounded b\' gardens, cavaby depot. Returning to the main
which are let to summer residents. line, the next town of importance is
Bernuy, situated about 26 miles from
Evreux, and containing 7510 inhabitants.
Hotel, Le Cheval Blanc. This town is tlie
seat of a tribunal of commerce, and pos-
sesses a college, as well as numerous man-
ufactories of linens, cloths, woolens, and
yarns. The Benedictine abbey, founded
in 1018 by Judith, wife of William II.,
duke of Normandy, has been converted
ROUTE Xo. 113. into a warehouse. Tb3 largest horse-fair
Pans to Cherbourg, via Mantes, Evreux, in France is held here, and is often attend-
Caen, and Bayeux, with excursions to Trou- ed by over 50,000 persons.
ville, Villers-sur-Mer. Jloulgate. Dives, Ca- Lisieux, a manufacturing town of 12,672
lourg. Honjleur, St. L6, Granville, St. Malo. inhabitants, lies at the junction of the val-
and Dinan. To Cherbourg direct by rail leys of the Toucques and the Orbec. Hotel
from St. Lazare. Time. 8 h. 56 m. fare, de France. It possesses a cathedral of the
;
from Paris, and is y^ry beautifully located, houses are built of wood, and very anti-
being shut in from the cold of winter by quated. The lady - chapel of the church
hills on the north, and the heat of summer of St. Pierre was founded by Pierre Cau-
by liills on the south. The noble English chon, bishop of Beauvais, who was presi-
family Devereux, Viscount Hereford, trace dent of the tribunal that condemned Joan
their descent to this city. It contains a of Arc. He emphatically states in the
very respectable hotel, Hotel du Grand endowment that this church was built in
Cerf. The townis well built, and con- expiation of the false judgment he pro-
tains many
antique houses, a fine cathe- nounced against an innocent woman. El-
dral, the church of St. Taurin, a clock-tur- eanor of Guienne, the divorced wife of
ret, built during the ICnglish domination Louis le Jeune, Avas married to Henry II.
in 1417, a town-hall, episcopal palace, the- in the church of St. Pierre (1152).
892
TROU\^LLE. [FRANCE.] Caen.
Casino of Trouville is a handsome build- Hotel du Cheval Blanc and Hotel de France.
ing, open from June to October, and con- This is a sea-port town, containing 0946 in-
taining reading, dancing, and gambling habitants, situated opposite Havre, and car-
rooms. It was at Trouville, in the house rying on a considerable trade in timber,
of Victor Barbey, that Louis Philippe laj' coal, etc. There is a good pier, and also
concealed for thirty hours before making a harbor and three floating docks. Cattle,
his escape to England, and it was also from butter, fruit, and eggs are exported from
this port that the Empress Eugenie sailed \
here to England in large quantities. There
in Sir John Burgoyne's yacht after her i
flight from Paris on the 4th of September, Cour d' Orleans. Besides the church of
j
1870. I
St. Catharine, a tiniber and plaster build-
'
Steamers leave Trouville for Havre twice ing, one of the largest of the kind in
a day, reaching the latter port in one hour. I France, there is chapel called Xotre Dame
Deauville stands on the opposite side of |
de Grace, situated on a hill above the town,
the River Toucques, and is connected with to which in former times crews of vessels
Trouville by a bridge and ferry. Hotels, I
which had suff"ered from storms at sea were
Grand Hotel and Hotel du Casino. This I
Caen was his favorite residence, and the moderate. The principal object of interest
frequent head-quarters of the English ar- here is the Ciithedral^ a fine specimen of
mies. Queen Mathilda, his consort, also Gothic architecture, built in the early part
founded a church and abbey, called Ab- of the twelfth century. It formerly con-
haye aux Dames and Church of la St. Trin- tained the celebrated Tapesti-y of Bayeux,
ite. In the centre of the choir are pre- now removed to the public library. This
served the pieces of her tombstone bro- singular historical record is a piece of clotli
ken by the Calvinists, who dispersed her 20 inches wide, and over 200 feet long. It
bones. They were collected again, and is the needle -work of Mathilda, Avife of
now lie here. The castle built by William William the Conqueror, and represents his
is now used as a barrack, and the Hall of exploits in the conquest of England.
the Exchequer ofNormandy as a store-house. At Lison^ two stations farther on, a rail-
The cit}'- is quite handsome. It con- way diverges to
tains a university, academy, and chamber St. L6, a town of 9693 inhabitants, so
of commerce, a college, and normal school. named from St. Laudus, or L6, who came
The JIutd de Ville, on Place Royale, has a from this part of Normandy, and who lived
collection of paintings. There is a " Mar- in the 6th century. towR
It is the chief
riaice of the Virgin" by Perugino, "Mel- in the Departement de la Manche, and car-
chizedcc offering Bread and Wine to Abra- ries on a rather extensive manufacture of
ham," and a " Virgin and Saints" by Al- fine cloths. The cathedral or church of
bert Durer. There are quite a variety of Notre Dame is situated on the brow of a
manufactures carried on, such as lace, hill, and presents a rather imposing ap-
S04
COUTANCES. [FRANCE.] Mont St. Michel.
pearance, but possesses little architectural The excursion from Avranches to the
interest. The stained glass was presented ^^ont St. Michel maybe mad.- in two or
to the town by Louis XL, as a reward for three hours ; it is reached by continuing
beating off the Bretons, in 1407. Hotels, from Avranches on the road to Dol as far as
Cheval Blanc and Soleil Levant. Pontorson, where a horse and car may be
A railway is in process of construction procured for the Mont for 5 or G francs.
from St. Lo, through Coutances and The Mont St. Michel is an isolated cone
Avranches, to Dol. Diligences now run of granite, rising out of an immense ex-
three times daily to Coutances, passing panse of sand which extends around it
near the castle of flautevi//e, whence Tan- for many leagues. All approach to it is
cred started with his six sons for the con- covered by the sea one or two hours
quest of Sicily and Apulia. before and after high water, with the
Coutances {Hotel de France) is built upon exception of a dike, some 150 feet wide
a hill, whose summit is crowned by a at the bass, which extends from the
lofty three-towered cathedral, one of the mainland. On this Mont, the natu-
finest ecclesiastical structures in all Nor- ral shrine of the Archangel Michael, a
mandy. A cathedral was first built here church was erected by the Norman dukes,
in the 11th century, and was consecrated which was aftarward converted into a for-
in the presence of William, duke of Nor- tress, impregnable in former times. It
mandy, ten years before the conquest of flourished as a Benedictine monastery,
England. This was completely rebuilt in founded by St. Aubert,bishop of Avranches,
the 13th century, and the lady and nave in the 8th century, and became in the r2th
chapels were added in the 14th. The century a celebrated seat of learning. It
stained glass dates from the 14th, 15th, successfully withstood two sieges, in 1417
and IGth centuries. From the tower a and 1423, when all the other Norman for-
fine view ma}' be obtained over the sea, tresses had been overcome by the hero of
extending as far as tlie island of Jersey. Agincourt. The Order of Knightliood of
A diligence runs three times a day from St. Michael was founded here in 14G9 by
here to Granville. Louis XL, and the shrine of the saint was
Granville is a prosperous sea-port of visited yearly by thousands of pilgrims,
15,G22 inhabitants, built in terraces under who counted in their numbers many who
a rocky promontory Avhich projects into could boast of royal blood. The monks of
the sea, surmounted by a fort. The church, this order were afterward replaced by the
which also stands on the top of the prom- congregation of St. Matir, who remained
ontor\', is an Italianized Gothic building, here until the time of the Revolution, when
constructed of gray granite. There is some the monastery was converted into a prison.
commerce carried on between this port and The castle is at the present day in the pos-
the Channel Islands, but it is chiefly re- session of the government, with the excep-
sorted to by fishing-vessels. It may be tion of a part of the church, which contains
reached by rail direct from Paris through the high altar. The distance across the
Laigle and Argentan in 9 h. 25 m. fare, ; sands, called J. a Greve, to the Mont is
first class, 40 fr. 40 c. about a mile; the base is surrounded by
Avranches, beautifully situated on the mediaeval walls and towers, above which
summit of a high hill, from which a fine rise the houses of a small village, pilod
view may be obtained, contains 8642 in- one above another against the rock; while
habitants. A new cathedral is being erect- surmounting the whole is a rocky pedestal,
ed near the public garden to replace one from which rise the walls, buttresses, and
pulled down in 1779, the site of which towers of the monastic buildings, crowned
still remains open. A single stone, called by the church and its lofty tower. The
that of Henry II., is the only relic of the convent building is built partly in three
old building : it is said to be that upon stories, and in other parts in two, with a
which the king knelt to do penance before cloister above ; the immensity of its walls
the Papal legates for the murder of Becket. iiave given it the name of La Meit'eille.
A model of the ancient cathedral is to be Tlie cloisters, of Gothic architecture, were
seen in the Museum of Antiquities, former- built in the beginning of the 13th century,
ly the paliii* of the bishops. and arc the most beautiful part of the
DOL. [FRANCE.] Carextax.
building. Below them is the Salle des f de France. St. IMalo has been often bom-
Chevaliers, in ^vhich the chapters of the barded by the English. At the harbor is
Order of St. Michael were held. In the the town of St. Servan- northwest is the isl-
church notice a large silver statue of St. and of Grand Bey, where Chateaubriand's
Michael, which stands above the high death is commemorated by a monument.
altar. The iron cage of St. Michael, of j
Parame, a favorite watering-place, is op-
world-wide celebrity, which existed in this posite St. Malo. and reached by diligence in
convent, and which was last occupied bj^ half an hour, or by boat. It has a prettv
Dubourg, a Dutcli journalist Avho had at- Casino, a very fine hotel, a beach of great
tacked Louis XIII. in his writings, was extent and admirably adapted to safe and
destroyed in 1777 by order of the Due de agreeable sea-bathing. The situation is mag-
Chartres (Louis Philippe). The custodian nificent, the air pure, and living inexpen-
will show the jewels of the convent. The sive. One hour from St. Malo by ferry to
crovrn is modern, and cost an immense Dinard, a pretty watering-place, fast at-
sum. Hotel Poulard is the best. taining prosperity as a fashionable resort.
Hotel Dinard and Hotel de la France.
Leaving Pontorson, wo. continue on our From here diligences run daily to Dinan,
route to which may be also reached by steamer up
Do\ a small town of 4230 inhabitants, the Ranee from St. Malo in two hours.
through which passes the railway from I
Dinan is most picturesque!}' situated on
Rennes to St. Malo. j
the summit and sides of a granite hill over-
St. Mala, a fortified sea-port town, of looking the Ranee. Hotels da Commerce,
10,693 inhabitants, is situated on what was and de la Poste. The castle, situated on
formerly a rocky island, now connected the outskirts of the town, and separated
with the mainland b}"^ a causeway called from it by a deep fosse, was built in the
Le .Sillon, The space upon the island be- beginning of the 1-lth centuiy it is now
;
ing limited, the houses are closely packed used as a prison. Here Duguesclin suc-
together, and rise to a height of five or six cessfully resisted a siege by the English
stories above dark and narrow streets. i
under the Duke of Lancaster in 1389, and
Hotels, Hote' de France and Frank m. The
I
has consequently given his name to a pub-
island, together with the promontor}'^ of lic square (Place Duguesclin), in the cen-
the Sillon, curves from the north to the tre of which the statue of the Breton hero
northwest, and meets another arm of land may be seen. There are two fine churches
stretching from the southwest, thus form- in the town, St. Sauveur and St. Malo, the
ing a safe and commodious harbor, which is I
latter rebuilt in 1490. The neighborhood
protected from the sea by a covered pier '
of Dinan ismost delightful, and abounds
on the end of this stands a light-house, A in excursions both for riders and pedestri-
pleasant walk may be taken round the isl- ans one of the pleasant^est of these is to
;
and upon the town walls. The castle and the village of Lekon, where stand the ruins
fortifications were mostly completed in the of a noble abbey, once the burial-place of
IGth century by Anne of Brittany, who the Beaumanoirs. Their graves having
placed upon one of the towers the following been desecrated in the time of the Revolu-
inscription " Qui qu'en grogne, ainsi sera,
: tion, the monuments which once adorned
c'est mon plaisir." Opposite the Hotel de i
the niches of the church have been re-
Vile stands a statue of Duguay-Trouin, a moved to the museum at Dinan. Another
French naval hero, and a native of St. pleasant excursion may be made to the
Malo. The public buildings are a cathe- j
Chateau de la Garaye, a ruin dating from
dral, a bishop's palace, a town -hall, ex- '
export trade in cattle, hogs, and corn. The 16,000 regular French troops, they kept
I
district surrounding it is pleasing, and possession of the place for three days. In
highly cultivated. From this region are the mean time they blew up all the docks,
descended many of the noblest of En- arsenals, and other militan,' works, burn-
gland's nobility —
the Percys, the Beau- ing all the vessels of war and commerce,
monts, the Bruces, and Pierponts. Five :
and levying a contribution on the town.
miles east of this place King James II. of ! Cherbourg has now a maritime tribunal,
England witnessed the great naval battle a commercial college, a national academic
of La Hogue, where the French were de- society, a naval school, and museums. It
feated by the English and Dutch fleet com- has an active trade in wines, cattle, lard,
bined. The expedition was prepared by butter, and eggs, and other produce ex-
Louis XIV. for the purpose of regaining for ported to England and the Channel Isles.
James the English throne. I
Charles X. embarked here with his family,
Valof/nes, distance 11 miles from Cher- j
taking a last farewell of his country, after
bourg, is the next station of importance. I
abdicating his throne in 1830. The first
It is the seat of a commercial college, and French transatlantic steamers arrived at
has large manufactories of hats, lace, and New York from Cherbourg July 8, 1847.
gloves. William the Conqueror had a cas- I Vessels belonging to the English Yacht
tle here. It was here his court fool discov- Club are often found lying here, taking in
ered to him the plot for his assassination, stores of brandv, provisions, and cham-
and he had barely time to escape with his pagne. The Hotel de Ville contains a small
life to his castle of Falaise. j
collection of very good pictures. The
Cherbourg, one of the principal naval I
Chapelle de Notre Dame du Vaeu was built
ports and dock-yards of France, is reached j
by the Empress Maude, in accordance with
in one hour from Valognes. It is nearly j
a vow made while in a storm at sea. There
opposite Portsmouth and the Isle of are no antiquities possessing any interest
Wight the harbor is protected by a digue,
: to be found in Cherbourg. A United
or breakwater, of vastly greater propor- States consul resides here. Steamers leave
tions than that of Plymouth, and its ap- twice a week for Havre. We
should ad-
proaches seaward are protected by nu- vise the traveler, if he be returning home
merous strong forts. Every means has, by the way of Havre, to take this route
in fact, been adopted by the successive from Paris.
governments of France for a long period
past to render it impregnable. Cherbourg
contains a population of 41,812 inhabit-
ants. The principal hotels are de V Univers,
de France, and de V Europe. Its climate is
remarkabl}-- mild the houses are of stone,
;
breakwater, as it now stands, is nearly This route is through the bleak and jwv-
three miles long, 310 feet at the base, 60 erty-stricken Brittany, a province much
feet deep, averaging 40 feet under water resembling Scotland in its barren heath
and 20 above. It is defended by three moors ami stormy, unprotected coasts. Its
immense fortifications, and bv forts on ev- inhabitants are of Celtic origin, and differ
ery available situation in the neighbor- in language, costume, and usages from the
hood. An English force of 7000 men land- mass of the French jxiople. An English
ed here in 1758, and, although opposed by writer says that "Englishmen, and espe-
Vol. I.— S 397
Brittant. [FRANCE.] Maintenon.
of the peasants are little better than sav- where Marie Antoinette and her suite
ages, with all the appearance and many of used to partake of basins of fresh milk.
the habits of wild animals. In truth, civ- In the background is a beautiful artificial
ilization seems to have halted on the fron- grotto, with a marble basin in the centre
;
tiers of Brittany, affrighted by its rough ex- is an exquisite marble statue, by Beauval-
terior. Some of the towns may give a let, of Venus entering the Bath. From a
good idea of the towns of England two or reservoir on the top of the building the wa-
three centuries ago. The narrow streets, ter falls over her shoulders, and jets spout
destitute of channel or causeway, abound up from the pavement. Near by is the
with lofty timbered houses of curious build, Pavilion of the Four Seasons, where Louis
rising tier above tier like the stern of a XVI. and Marie Antoinette used to par-
three-decker, and approaching so close at take of breakfost during the summer
top as almost to shut out the light, with months. It was likewise a habit of Napo-
uncouth figures at the angles, and quaint leon I. to breakfast in the park, and there
devices on the walls. Some of the shops to examine his charts and maps when pro-
are open to the street like booths in a fair. jecting a campaign.
In Brittmy now, as in the Middle Ages, Passing through Epernon, we arrive at
the markets and fairs are the great events. Maintenon, situated at the confluence of
Rare is the buying and selling that takes the Eure and Voise. Here are the ruins of
place at other tiines but, Avhen the mar-
; the gigantic aqueduct commenced by Louis
ket occurs, the country people, from a dis- XIV. to convey water from the Eure to
tance of twenty or thirty miles, throng the Versailles it would have exceeded thirty
;
roads, bringing all imaginary articles to miles in length when completed. Forty
I
exchange for money, for money is as greed- thousand troops were at one time employed
ilysought in Brittany as elsewhere. The j
on this great work but, owing to the un-
:
made her his wife. They were married in (jenet, a kind of broom which grows abund-
the chapel of the chateau by the king's con- antly in Maine his father used to wear a
;
fessor, Pere la Chaise, the king being 47, sprig of it in his liat. Le Mans consists
and Frances 50 years of age. of a lower and upper town, and is partly
Chartres, 47 miles soutliwest from Paris. inclosed with Roman walls. In addition to
The hotels are all ver^' indifferent. Hotel itscathedral, it has several other churches,
de France the best. The town contains a town-hall, prefecture, theatre, and two
nearly 20,000 inhabitants. It is noted hospitals, a college, seminary, museum,
particularly' for two things —
its corn-flour and public library, with manufactures of
market and cathedral. The latter is one coarse linen, woolen fabrics, and wax can-
of the most magnilicent in France. It is dles. It was the scene of the frightful
built in the early Gothic style, and was slaughter that took place in 1793, when the
the first church in France dedicated to the final dispersion of the Vendean soldiers took
Virgin. Its lengtli is 425 feet height of
; place. The Republicans not only slaugh-
the tallest spire, 304 feet height of apex
; tered the soldiers, but their miserable wives
of the roof, 112 feet. It contains a vast and children. Hotel de la Boule d'Or.
number of beautifullj'^ painted windows, From Le Mans there is a branch railroad
and the Gothic sculpturing of the screen to
that separates the choir from the aisles is Alengon, which has a population of
considered superior to an}- thing of the kind 16,115 souls. The principal hotels are the
in France. In this church St. Bernard Grand t'er/*and d\Angleterre. It contains
preached his second crusade in 1145. a court-house, cathedral, and public libra-
llenri IV. was crowned here in 1594, rv. The industry of this town has changed
Kheims being at the time in the hands of much within the last 20 years it now con- ;
the Leaguers. There are two other re- sists in tanneries, cider distilleries, bleach-
markable churches, well worth a visit ing, spinnhig, and printing the manufact-
;
that of St. Pierre and St. Andre. There ure of embroideries is extensive, also the
is an obelisk to the memorj'- of General celebrated lace called point dW'engon,
Marceau, who was born here in 1769 it ; which still occupies five or six houses.
stands in Place Marceau., and bears the The crystals called d' Alengon diamonds are
following inscription: '' Soldat a 16 ans found in its One
of the most
vicinity.
General a 23 il mourut « 27."
; The town atrocious villains among
the revolutionarj'
also contains an episcopal palace, vast bar- leaders was born here (Herbert the Anarch-
racks, and apubliclibrarv of 30, 000 volumes. ist) ; when led to the scaffold, where he
Chartres was long held by the English, had sacrificed thousands, he proved him-
from whom it was taken in 1432. It was self to be what villains generally are —
the birthplace of Regnier, the poet, and consummate coward.
Pierre Nicole, the mathematician. After From Alengon the railway continues on
—
passing Nor/ent-le-Rotrou a town contain- to
ing some 7000 inhabitants, built in a curi- Falaise, which may also be reached from
ous form, Jiaving only four streets with a Caen on the route to Cherbourg. Falaise
meadow^ in the centre, and which contains Castle, the birthplace of William the Con-
an ancient fortress, formerly inhabited by queror, one of the few real Homan for-
is
—
Sully we arrive at tresses remaining in France. Hotel du
Le 3fans. —
Population, 37,269. The Grand Cerf. The town cont^uns 8188 in-
principal editice is the Cathedral of St. Ju- habitants, and is celebrated for the ftiirs
lien, erected in the 13th century, in tlie Ro- held here in August, which were inaugu-
manesque and Gothic style. The windows rated by William the Conqueror. The
are tilled with beautiful i)ainted glass. It grammar-school, situated in the outer court
contains the monuments of Francis I. and of the castle, occupies a chapel said to date
Henry II. that of the queen of Richard
; from the 12th century. In the centre of
Coeur de Lion, and Charles of Anjou. Le the Place de la Trinito is a bronze eques-
Mans was formerly the capital of tlie prov- trian statue of King William in a costume
399
Laval. [FRANCE.] Brest.
copied from the Bayeux tapestn^: it was I contains 45,485 inhabitants. Hotels, Jti-
erected by his fellow-citizens in 1851. Re- lien and de France. The cit}' is nearly all
turning to our main route to Brest, the modern, it having been destroyed by fire
next place of importance is in 1720 ; tlie fire lasted seven days, and
Laval, a city of 27,189 inhabitants. consumed nearly every building in the
Hotels, de France and de Paris. This is town. The lower or new town is rebuilt
the chief town in the department of May- on a regular plan it contains a theatre
;
old quarter, with narrow, tortuous streets of law and medicine, a normal school, and a
and black, overhanging, modern houses, library containing 30,000 volumes. It has
and a new quarter with wide, regular, and an extensive trade in butter, honey, wax,
well-built streets. One of the principal and linen goods. The Duke of Lancaster
buildings is an old castle situated on the besieged this place unsuccessfully in 1357 ;
right bank of the river, belonging former- in 1555 Henry II. held a Parliament here.
ly to the seigneurs of La Tremouille it is; Daih' communication with St. Malo, 40
flanked by a round tower, built in the 12th miles distance north from Rennes.
century, and is now used as a prison. St. Brieuc, the next place of importance
The town has a curious Gothic cathedral, on our route, containing 15,812 inhabitants,
two hospitals, prefecture, town -hall; a has little to commend it to the traveler but
Hall au Toiles, where a market is held its size ; so we pass to
weekly for the sale of linen, cotton and Morlaix, 34 miles distant from Brest.
linen thread, all of which are largely man- Population, 14,046. Hotels, de V Europe
ufactured here. It has bleach and dye and Provence. This town is situated at
works, tanneries, and marble-works. The the foot of two hills, and still retains an
town was taken by the English in 1466, air of antiquity, although in some portions
and recaptured by the French the follow- of the town modern improvements are
ing 5' ear. It suffered greatly in the Ven- springing up. It has a commodious har-
dean war, at the close of the last century bor, capable of accommodating vessels of
and near it was gained one of the most 400 tons ; a town-hall, fortified castle, and
glorious victories of the Vendeans. The public librar}'. In 1522, Francis I. having
latter having been obliged by a series of committed some depredations on English
defeats to cross the Loire, the leader of the merchants in French ports, Henry VIII.
Republican forces wrote to the Convention dispatched the Earl of Surrey, who entered
in Paris, "La Vendee no more." At
is the port of Morlaix with fifty vessels, pil-
this moment Lescure, who was
mortally laged the town, set fire to the houses, and
wounded, insisted on being carried through massacred the inhabitants. In retiring to
the Royalists' ranks on a litter; the Ven- their ships 600 of the last were intercepted
deans rallied, and rushed upon the Repub- by the inhabitants, and slaughtered near a
licans in close column, carri'ing every spring now called Fontaine des Anglais^
thing before them, and completely routing near which is the Cour Beaumont, a very
the enemy, with a loss of 12,000 men. So fine promenade, two miles in length.
complete was the rout that the remnants Steamers run from Morlaix to Havre once
of the Republican army were not again a week in 18 hours.
collected for twelve days. We pass the Brest. —
We now arrive at the terminus
town of of our route, the chief naval arsenal and
Vitre, a place of little importance, al- dock-yard of France, the city of Brest
though noted as the birthplace of Savary Brustum of the Romans situated on the —
in 1750 it has a population of 9000, and north shore of a small gulf called the Road
;
does considerable in the cotton, hosier}', of Brest. It is the "Land's End "of France.
and leather trade. Two miles south of the Its bay, which is capable of containing all
town is the Chateau des Hocker, which was the ships of war in Europe, communicates
for a long time the residence of Madame de with the German Ocean by a strait called
Sevigne, and where she wrote most of her the " Goulet," which is defended bj' forts
charming letters. and batteries, and rendered diflScult of ac-
Mennes, formerlv the capital of Brittanv, cess to an enemy. Its immense harbor is
400
Brest. [FRANCE.] Nantes.
one of the most secure in Europe, and could sel or vessels attempting the passage. A
accommodate GO ships of the line it is pro-
;
steamer makes daily excursions through
tected by batteries, and a citadel built on the harbor and roadstead. It is well worth
a rock, and communicates by a canal with the time to see the fortifications, Tlje
the port of Nantes. Population, inclusive cemetery, also, on the east side of the ro.-d-
of soldiers, sailors, etc., 80,000. Hotel des stead, will repay a visit.
Voyageurs. The gates are closed at 10
P.M. in summer and 9 P.M. in winter.
To visit the dock-yard you must obtain
a written permit from the Mini.<ter de la
Marine before you leave Paris. The city
is built on the slopes of considerable hills,
and is divided hy the port into two parts,
which communicate only by boats. Among
its most important works are five large
basins, extensive quays, an arsenal, vast
j
magazines, and building yards. Its bar- Bordeaux, via Orleans, Tours,
Paris to
j
racks are capable of accommodating 10,000 and Poitiers, by rail from the Gare d'Or^
men. leans. Time, per Chemin de Per d' Orleans
Brest has many important educational (express train, 8.45 A.M.), 9 h. 7 m. fare, ;
she was affianced to the Dauphin Francis. Poitiers, and Bordeaux; time, 1 h. 45 m.,
,
She was then only five years old. Brest and 5 h. 18 m. fare, 12 fr. 10 c, and
;
^
ter, James II., of the proposed expedition in its fullest perfection, the rich banks of
one month before the intended descent, the Loire, which winds its way through
the French had thrown up masked bat- broad and verdant meadows, diversified by
teries where none before existed, and 900 vineyards, gardens, and forests. The whole
men were cut to pieces in an instant of this region is rich in memorials of for-
every point was found bristling witli can- mer ages, and many of the cities which it
non extra troops had been collected, and contains have played a conspicuous part in
;
the place had been put in such a condition the annals of English as well as French
of defense that defeat was inevitable. history.
The entrance to the harbor through the We pass through Orleans, Blois, Tours,
Goulet, which is only 5000 feet wide, is so Angers, to Nantes, all cities of great his-
admirably defended that not less than 500 torical importance. From Paris to Nantes
cannon can be brought to bear on any ves- the distance is 256 miles. Fare, first class,
401
Choisy-le-Eoi. [FRANCE.] Orleans.
^9 50 ; second class, $6 33. Express train ings are a university, academy, a national
in 10 hours. college, a primary normal school, a second-
Cholsy-le-KGi is the first station of im- ary medical school, a public library of
portance passed after leaving Paris. This 25,000 volumes, a museum of natural his-
is a manufacturing town of some 5200 in- tory, a botanical garden, and theatre. Op-
habitants, containing works for the manu- posite the ^ilairie stands a fine statue of
facture of morocco leather and of glass ; also Joan d'Arc, executed by the Princess
chemical works and a sugar refinery. The Marie, daughter of Louis Philippe. The
town derived its name from its having industrial establishments comprise manu-
been a favorite residence of Louis XV., factories of hosiery, woolens, cottons, pot-
who built here a chateau for Madame de tery-ware, vinegar, and saltpetre ; sugar-
Pompadour, of which only a small frag- refineries, breweries, and metal foundries.
ment, used as a china manufactory, now An extensive commerce is also carried on
remains. At Juvisy a branch line runs off" in the wine, brandy, and vinegar of the dis-
to Montargis. trict. Orleans was- the capital of the first
Etampes is an ancient town of nearly kingdom of Burgundy, and since the time:of
9000 inhabitants, containing a Gothic Philippe de Valois it gave the title of duke to
church of the 13th century and the re- a member of the royal family. In 1428 Or-
mains of a royal castle and pa-lace built b}' leans was besieged six months by the En-
King Robert in the 11th century, which glish in the following year the celebrated
:
remained in good preservation until dis- Joan of Arc entered the city with inferior
mantled by Henry IV. It was given as a French forces in the face of the English,
patrimony b}-- three French kings to their bearing supplies to the besieged and as
;
—
different mistresses by Francis I. to Anne she rode through the streets on a spirited
of Pisseleu, by Henri II. to Diana of Poi- charger, dressed in full armor and bearing
tiers, and by Henri IV. to Gabrielle d'Es- a sacred banner, she was looked upon by
trees. In the town and vicinit}' are nu- the famished townspeople as a guardian
merous flour-mills and it is estimated that
; angel. In opposition to the opinion and
Etampes supplies Paris with nearly half wishes of the most skillful and experienced
the flour consumed in the capital. It has of the French commanders, she insisted in
also manufactories of soap, hosiery, and organizing a chosen band of troops, at the
linen thread. head of which she crossed the Loire in
Thirteen miles fi'om Orleans is the vil- boats, and attacked a portion of the Bas-
lage of Artmay, near which the famous tile des Tourelles : for many hours she
"Battle of the Herrings" was fought, was kept at bay by a picked body of 500
where 2000 English soldiers who were — troops. In attempting to scale the walk
conveying provisions to the English army, an arrow pierced her corselet, and she fell
which was at the time besieging the city into the ditch but what was the feeling
;
—
of Orleans defeated 4000 French soldiers of supernatural horror and dismay with
who were sent to intercept them. A few which the English saw her, Avhom they
months later the same English forces were supposed mortally wounded, waving on
defeated at the first onset of the French, high her magic banner, and again leading
led on by Joan of Arc, showing the eff'ect on the assault. The spirits of the French
of superstition over the minds of men. increased ; and their enemies, believing
The Duke of Mecklenburg here defeated that a supernatural power was exerted
the Army of the Loire, December 2, 1870. against them when they saw the body of
Orleans, one of the most ancient cities of their leader hurled into the river as he was
France, which former!}' ranked next to crossing the drawbridge, began to falter.
Paris in importance, contains a population Joan carried the fort, and the next day the
of 50,798. Hotel cV Orleans and Hotel de English broke up the siege. Thus, in sev-
Loiret. The town is situated on a rich en days after her arrival, she crossed the
plain, and contains many fine squares, but bridge in triumph that had been for months
is in general ill built. The Cathedral, or blockaded by the English forces, after
church of St. Croix, is one of the finest in which time she was called the "Maid of
France it is surmounted by two towers,
: Orleans." In 1567 Orleans was pillaged
each 280 feet high. Among the public build- b}' the Calvinists. It is the birthplace of
402
Meung. [FRANCE.] Amboise.
rock which overhangs the river. This cas- mains were interred in a small nunnery at
tle belonged to the Counts of Blois. Louis Vdlengay. It was in this chateau that Na-
XII. was born here, and here the States- poleon I. kept Ferdinand VII. of Spain a
general held their meetings in 157G and prisoner for six years. Before we aiTive
1588. It has been for ages the residence at Amboise we pass the Chdtenu de C/iau-
of kings and queens, princes, and dukes of mo7it, the birthplace of Cardinal d' Amboise,
royal blood, as well as the scene of many minister under Louis XII. Catherine de'
crimes and murders, foremost in the rank of Medici lived here at the time of the death
which stands the cold-blooded murder of of her husl>and, Henri II.
the Duke of Guise, the mighty Henri le A mboise, 14 miles from Tours, is a mean-
Balafre, and his brother, the unfortunate ly built and dull town of 411.S inhabit-
Cardinal de Lorraine. The room is shown ants, which has an extensive manufact-
where Catherine de' Medici contrived the ure of files and other steel goods, fine
plot, and where her cowardh'' son, Henri wines, and woolens. It is noted princi-
III., put fortj'-tive dagirers in the hands pally for its rastle, long the residence of
of his suite to stab the Didce of Guise as he i
the kings of France. Here it was that the
entered the chamber. Coming unarmed i plot against the Guises was formed, known
and unprotected, in obedience to the sum- as the " Conjuratoire d'An\boise." The
mons of his king, he fell, pierced by every plot was discovered, and 1200 Huguenot
dagger. His brother, the following day, conspirators were either hung or beheaded
shared the same fate. The observatory of in and around the castle. The stench of the
Catherine de' Medici may lie seen, where dead bodies was such that, for some time,
she used to retire with her astrologer to was compelled to leave Amboise.
the court
consult the stars. The castle is well worth The famous Arab chief, Alid-el-Kader, was
a visit. There is in Blois an ancient aque- detained here a prisoner by Louis Philippe,
duct, cut in the rock by the Romans. The but was set at liberty by the Emperor Na-
I
magnificent dikes for the protection of ! poleon III. In the time of Francis I., the
403
Tours. [FRANCE.] Saumuk.
chief officer of the castle had three lovely ! Martin; the other, La Tourde Charlemagne,
daughters, each of whom, in turn, became from the fact that Luitgarde, wife of
his mistress their name was Babon, and
;
Ciiarlemagne, was buried beneath it. The
two of the favorite mistresses of Henry IV. Pi'essis les Tours, so well known bv the
vere daughters of two of these ladies. description in " Quentin Durward," built
Morals at that time were not at a high ;
by Louis XL, is well worth a visit. The
premium. j
new Palais de Justice is one of the finest
of Amboise
Ten miles south is situated buildings in the city. Tours is a favorite
the Chateau Chenanceuu, built by Francis residence of English families.
I. It was given by Henry II. to his mis- From Tours to the castle of Laches the
Di.tna of Poitiers, who inhabited it
,tress, distance is 30 miles. The castle acquired
up to tlie time of his death, at which time a terrible reputation as a state prison un-
she was dispossessed of it by his wife, der Louis XL
The blood curdles at the
Catherine de' Medici. At the time of the recital of the deeds of cruelt}'' committed
Revolution it escaped the fate of nearly all in this den of infamy when under the gov-
the old royal palaces, on account of the ernorship of the barber Le Daim. At one
popularity of its amiable owner, Madame end of the terrace is the monument erect-
Dupin. She was very accomplished, and ed to the memory of Agnes Sorel, mistress
during her residence here, Voltaire, Rous- to Charles VII., through whom she did
seau, and Bolingbroke were among her much good.
constant visitors. The chateau contains [ Tours to Brest, via Saumur, Angers, and
a fine collection of historical paintings Nantes (St. Nazaii'e) time, 15 h. fare, 52
; ;
among the principal are one of Agnes Sorel, fr. 25 c. Tours to Nantes; time, 4 h. 32 m.
;
Sully, Henry IV., and Rabelais. fare, 23 fr. 75 c. Nantes to Brest; time,
;
irce c' Touraine. Population about 43,000. Cinq-Mais, a small village, whose ruined
Principal and best hotel, Hotel de I'Univers, castle gave its name to one of Louis XIII.'s
a short distance from the station. The junc- favorites, and a consequent victim of Car-
tion of the Paris and Bordeaux road is here dinal Richelieu's relentless ambition. Near
formed. The cit}' is situated at the ex- the village is a square brick tower, origi-
tremity of a line plain, and its bridges across nally surmounted hy five pinnacles, called
the Loire are the finest in Europe. One of La Pile de Cinq-Mars, and believed to be a
the principal buildings is a Gothic cathedral, Roman work of the 3d or 4th century.
built by Henry V. of England. Its length Saumur, a town containing 13,663 in-
is 256 feet height, 85 feet it is flanked by habitants, is beautifully situated on the
; ;
two towers each 205 feet high. The town left bank of the Loire, and contains a
contains an episcopal palace. Exchange, tribunal of commerce, a college, a mili-
and Hotel de Ville, also a tribunal of tar}' riding -school, and manufactures of
commerce, a national college, a librar}'^ linens and cambrics. About a mile and a
of 32,000 volumes, a cabinet of natural half from Saumur is the Dolmen of Ba-
historj'', numerous schools, and learned gneux, one of the best preserved and largest
societies. The manufacture of silk goods, in France. It is a chamber built like a
introduced by Louis XL, is still important. house of cards, with rough unhewn blocks
There is also an important manufact- of stone placed upright to form the walls,
ure of woolen cloth, hosiery, and leather. with others placed across them for a roof.
The Museum contains a gallery of paint- The largest of these blocks measures 24
ings, but they are very indifferent. The feet in length by 21 in breadth, the thick-
only surviving portion of the ancient cas- ness being 2f feet.
de, which was converted into cavalry bar- The Ahbaye de Fontevrault, now convert-
racks, is a round tower, from which Charles ed into a prison, is ten miles from Saumur
"Touraine (son of the Duke of Guise who it covers between thirty and forty acres
.-s murdered by Henry III.) let himself with its courts and buildings, and is oc-
luwn by a rope. On either side of Rue St. cupied by 1500 men and boys.
Martin stand two ancient towers, visible Angers, formerh' the capital of Anjou,
from all parts of the city. One of them contains 54,791 inhabitants. The princi-
contains a clock, and is called Tour St. pal hotels are the Hotel d' Anjou and the
404:
Angers. [FRANCE.] Nantes.
Chevcd Blanc. This town contains a large ton and silk twists, and hosiery, sugar and
number of antique cliurches and huildinf^s wax refineries, and does consideralde trade
of a sombre cast; it is fi;enerally ill l)uilt, in wine, corn, and slates quarried in the
although it has been recently somewhat neighborhood. Bernier, the traveler, and
improved by the construction of a broad David, the sculptor, were both natives of
quay along the left I)ank; of the river, and Angers.
by the erection of regular white
stone houses In the neighborhood of Angers are nu-
in jjlace of former gabled cottages. A
its merous slate quarries, employing between
boulevard has also been constructed, which 2000 and 3000 workmen, and furnishing
takes the place of the old fortifications. yearly al)out eighty million slates a large
;
Among its ancient structures are the ruins portion of France is supplied from here,
of a castle, once the stronghold of the Dukes while an amount is exported valued at li
of Anjou. It has recently been converted million francs per annum. The largest
into a prison and powder-magazine. Tak- of these quarries, fe Grand Carreau, covers
ing its size and preservation into considera- an area of about 4000 metres, and is some
tion, it may be considered the linest castle 105 metres deep.
in France. It is surrounded by a broad Xantes, 256 miles southwest of Paris,
ditch, the gateway and portcullis being al- contains a population of 118,625 souls, and
most perfect. The Cathedral of S!. Mau- ranks the fourth city in France in regard
rice, from its elevated position, is conspic- to population. Hotel de France (good), and
uous from all parts of the town. It dates Hotel des Colonies et du Commerce. Nantes,
from the 12th century, and is in a very situated at the junction of the Loire and
fine state of preservation. Margaret of Erdre, was the ancient residence of the
Anjou was buried in this church, but her Dukes of Brittany, and is one of the hand-
toml) was destroyed by the Revolutionists. somest and most pleasing towns of France.
In the Museum, situated contiguous to the It is remarkable for the regularity of its
Cathedral, are some very fine pieces of public squares. It is connected by twelve
sculpture by David ; also a marble bust of bridges with its isles and the suburb Mad-
Napoleon I. by Canova. Among the rel- eleine, on the left bank of the river. The
ics isa water-pot purporting to bo one of chief edifice is the Cathedral, with two tow-
those used by the Savior at the marriage ers 170 feet high. Some portions of the
in Cana of Galilee. It was brought from structure are of the 11th, 13th, and 15th
the East by King Rene. The Museum of centuries. The principal object of curiosity
Natural History in the upper story of the it contains is the splendid monument of
same building contains many valuable and Francis II., last Duke of Brittany, and his
interesting relics. There are vestiges of wife, Marguerite de Foix. It was erected
a Roman aqueduct in the neighborhood. to their memciry in the Carmelite convent
Close to the castle is the suspension bridge. by their daughter, Anne of Brittany, but
During the passage of a regiment of sol- was removed from there to its present po-
diers over it in 18-19 it fell, and over 250 sition. It is a magnificent work of art, by
men were drowned. One of the best con- Michel Colomb. On an j\ltar of red, white,
ducted establishments in Angers is the and black marble repose the figures of
Hospice St. Jean, founded by Henry II., Francis and his wife three angels support
;
king of England and Duke of Anjou. It their heads, their feet resting on a lion
dates from the middle of the 12th century. and greyhound. At the four corners are
The Mayenne divides Angers into an up- statues of Wisdom, Temperance, Power,
per and lower town, and its walls are con- and Justice. The twelve apostles are ar-
verted into extensive boulevards, planted ranged at the sides of the tomb, Charle-
with trees, and lined with handsome houses. magne and St. Louis at their heads, St.
It contains a riding-school and an Acade- Francis and St. ^Marguerite at their feet.
my of Belles-Lettres. The Military Col- Next in importance is the Castle of
lege, where Lord Chatham and the Duke Nantes, a massive structure fianked with
of Wellington studied, is now removed to bastions: it dates from the fourteenth cen-
Saumur. Angers is the seat of a royal tur}'. It was the birthplace of Anne of
college, university, and academy. Man- Brittany, and she was here married to
ufactures of linen and woolen stuflFs, cot- Louis XII. It had been the residence of
Voi.. T._S 2 405
N ANTES. [FRANCE.] AURAY.
all the kings of France, from the time of his constitution —impaired by the excesses
Charles Y 1 1. down to the Revolution. It
j
I
—
of youth was in the daily habit of kid-
was here that Henri IV. signed the famous naping the children of the marior for the
£dict of Ni.ntis, which gave protection to purpose of bathing in their warm blood.
the Protestants. It was from this castle He carried this butchery to such an extent
that Cardinal de Retz, who was a prisoner, that the Avhole country rose against the
escaped by letting himself doAvn into the cold-blooded wretch; he was seized and
Loire by a rope. Nantes contains also a conducted before John V. of Brittany, tried,
town-hall, mint, and com exchange. In j
and condemned to be burned at the stake.
Its environs are many handsome villas,
j
He died confessing his horrid crimes.
Merchant vessels of 1000 tons are built on |
Continuing on our route from Nantes to
the Loire, and it has numerous manufac- i
Locmnriaquer is a poor village, situated James Hamilton, second ICarl of Arran, re-
on a promontory projecting between the ceived the dukedom of Chatellerault from
ocean and the ^Nlorbihan. About a mile to Henry II. in 1548 as the price of his consent
the northwest is a mound of earth, called to the marriage of hijs ward, ^lary Queen
the Mane Lud, or Hellud, containing a fine of Scots, with the Dauphin Francis.
stone chamber, with sides and roof covered We now arrive at Poitiers, the most con-
with sculptured figures. To the southwest siderable town in the ancient province of
is a similar mound, called Mane ar Groach, Poitou, the western portion of which con-
or Bnt/e de Cesar, in the chamber of which stitutes the modern department of Vendee,
stone implements, as well as glass and celebrated under that name for the wars
jasper necklaces, were found, which have which, during the earlier years of the Rev-
been removed to Vannes. olution, its inhabitants waged so devotedly
Continuing our route from Auray, and on behalf of the monarchical cause one of —
passing Hennehont (population 5112), one the most gallant and high-minded strug-
of the chief corn-markets of Brittany, we gles recorded in the pages of history. The
reach hardy and vigorous peasantry of the dis-
Lorient, a town of 37,655 inhabitants, trict, strongly attached to the proprietors
with a dock-yard.
fortified There is little of the soil, who, unlike the landlords of
here to interest the traveler, Lorient being France in general, resided much on their
almost exclusively a building port. estates, retained feudal attachments and
Quimper, the principal town of the De- <
ties unknown elscwliere with their mas-
;
partement du Finistere, contains a popula- ters, they staked life, an«l all that makes
tion of 12, 532. Hotel de V Kpee. This town \
life dear, in behalf of the ancient re-
bears the marks of great antiquity, and is j
gime.
still partly surrounded by the walls and Poitiers contains about 31,000 inhabit-
The town is
|
CO c. (Brest is described in Koute 114.) closed bv iron bars is a small chapel in this
Tours to Bordeaux (continuation), see cluireh. in wliich is contained ''Lc Pa> de
Route 110 to Poitiers, and Koute 117 thence Dleu,'" covered with an iron case. Here,
to Bordeaux. the legend tells us, the Saviour appeared
Bordeaux, sQo Route 117 tp the saint. In the crypt is the black
Poitiers. [FRANCE.] La Rochellk.
marble coffin of St. Eadegonde, to which a I Lusignan. -Population, 1500. It is only
pilgrimage is made in the month of August ^ celebrated a the cradle of the Lusignan
by the poorer classes. It was said her family, sovereigns of Jerusalem and Cy-
body had the virtue of curini: the sick; prus during the Crusades. The old castle
but that being burned by the Huguenots, belonging to the family ^vas destroyed by
they think her coffin still retains its heal- the Catholics in 1574, and a public prom-
ing qualities. The churches of St. Por- enade now occupies its site.
chaire, St. Hilaire, and St. Jean de Mou- Xioi't is a modem town of 21,344 inhab-
tiersnetif are all well worthy a visit on ac- itants. It is beautifully situated on the
count of the antiquity of their architecture. slope of two hills, inclosed by well-planted
There are also the remains of a Eoman promenades, and contains an ancient castle
amphitheatre. It is now used as a vege- surmounted by two keep-towers, and is re-
table garden by the Hotel d'Evreux. Poi- markable as the birthplace of Zvladame de
tiers also contains a castle, university, acad- Her father, Constant d'Au-
Maintenon.
emy, and several was confined in it. There is a fine
schools, hospitals, a pub- bigne,
lic library of 25,000 volumes, a theatre, bo- Gothic church built by the English, a
tanical garden, manufactures of woolen market-hall, two hospitals, a theatre, bar-
goods, hosiery, lace, and hats. It has racks, public library, a college. Athenaeum,
some trade in corn, wool, and wine. It and botanical garden, with manufactures
came bj- marriage into possession of the of woolen stuffs, gloves, shoes, leather, and
dukes of Kormandv, and was for three confectioner}-. Xiort is the entrepot for
centuries attached to the crown of England. the wines of Gironde, timber, wool, hides,
I
Near Poitiers was the scene of the ever- and cattle. Principal hotel, Hotel de France.
\
memorable conflict between Charles Mar- From here a branch line runs through
tel, head of as many Christians as
at the Bressuire to Angers, through a rich wine-
|
Mohammedan forces. The Saracens had itants, built on the site of one destroved
i
nearh' made their caliph arbiter of the civ- during the Yendean war. Near it is the
ilized world, when the Koran received its chateau of Clisse, the seat of the Laroche-
death-blow in the West on this spot. It jacquelins, formerly belonging to the Les-
is said by some -n-riters that over 300,000 cures. From Bressuire a branch line runs
Mohammedans were left dead upon the to La Eoche-sur-Yon and the Sables
field. It was also the scene of a signal d'Olonne.
and most unexpected victory, gained Sept. Thouars^ situated on a hill almost sur-
9, 1356, over the French by the English rounded by the river Thoue. contains 2622
under Edward the Black Prince, who cap- inhabitants, and lies on the road from
tured and brought to England John, king Bressuire to Tours. [
What is now the
of France. The prince was on his way Mairie was once a fine old chateau belong-
home from Bordeaux with some 12.000 ing to the La Tremouilles, purchased by
men, when he unexpectedly encountered the town authorities during the time of the
King John at the head of 60.000 men. Revolution. There is also a fine old church
Edward, to prevent the useless eflPusion of with a handsomelv decorated front.
j
blood, offered to relinquish all the cities Continuing from Bressuire to Angers
and castles he had taken, and give up his we pass
prisoners but the French, believing and
; Cholet, the scene of two actions in the
trusting in the superiority of numbers, re- Yendean war, in the first of which the
fused ever\- offer. The English were then Vendeans lost their brave leader, M. de
led on by the Black Prince and Lord Chan- Lescure. Population, 13,552. Cholet is a
dos, and the result is well known, Poi- manufacturing town, entirely rebuilt since
tiers contains a ver}' celebrated school, its destruction l)y the Republicans, and
called EcoU de Droit, numbering a large contains little of interest to arrest the trav-
number of students. Lord Bacon was eler. Three stations farther we reach
amono; the number who studied there. Angers. (See Route No. 115.)
Poitiers to Bordeaux ; time, 3 h. 43 m. ; La Rochelle was once a place of consider-
fare, 30 fr.30 c. (See Route 117.) able importance, and for a long time the
408
La Rochelle. [FRANCE.] Les Sables d'Olonne.
stronghold of Protestantism; but it was I
now crosses a series of marshy flats, inter-
taken by Louis XIII. in 1G28. At that sected bv canals, and traversed by several
time it contained nearly thirty thousand rivers, ofwhich the most important are the
inhabitants: it now numbers nineteen thou- Sevre-Niortaise and the Vendee.
sand. Its best hotel, Hotel de France, is very Lufon, situated near these marshes, and
good. It is entered by seven gates, and connected with the sea by a canal, is a town
its streets are mostly bordered by arcades. of GlOO inhabitiints. It was the episcopal
The principal edifices are a cathedral, town- see of Cardinal Richelieu, who, although
hall, exchange, court of justice, hospital, ar- bred to be a soldier, entered upon his duties
senal, docks, and a good bathing establish- here at the age of twenty-two.
ment. An inner harbor opens from the La lioche-sur- Yon, or JVupoleon- Vendee, is
outer port, capable of containing vessels a town founded by Napoleon in the centre
of 500 tons. The roadstead is protected by of the rebellious province of La Vendee,
the isles Ke and Oleron. It has schools and is united with La Roche-sur-Yon, an
of navigation and drawing, a public library ancient appanage of the Bourbons, which
containing 20,000 volumes, a botanical gar- now forms a suburb to the larger and more
den, and a cabinet of natural history. Its modern town. Population, 8841. Hotel des
manufactures are glass and earthenware, Voyageiirs. Here there is but little com-
cotton-twist, and sugar refineries. It has merce, and nothing of interest in the way
an extensive trade in wines, brandies, and of antiquities. A railway runs from here to
colonial produce. Les tables d' Olonne, a. distance of 22 miles.
In 1G28 Kichelieu ordered an immense This is a town of some 8292 inhabitants,
dike over 5000 feet in length to be thrown situated on a narrow ledge of sand on the
into the sea, which contributed much to margin of a crescent-shaped bay, which is
the capture of the town, preventing the much frequented by fleets of fishing-vessels.
English from sending supplies. The cour- The chief business of the place is the capt-
ageous Guiton, when he accepted the office ure of young herrings, sprats, and young
of mayor at the commencement of the pilchards, which are cured as sardines.
siege, said he would do so with the dis- The bathing here is excellent the sands —
tinct understanding that the dagger which being both smooth and extensive. From
he then held in his hand should lie on the Napoleon- Vendee to Nantes there are no
council-chamber table, to be plux)ged into towns of interest to the traveler.
the heart of the first person who should
breathe the word " miTender.^'' The siege ROUTE No. 117.
409
Angoule^ie. [FKAKCE.] COGKAC.
From Paris ti Poit-iers, Houtes 115 and suffered greatly, and repairs were once
116. more made in 1865-07, which materially
Leaving Poitiers (see Route No. IIG), altered the antique character of the church.
•we first reach From Angouleme a railroad branches off
Civray, about 30 miles to the soutli. to Cognac and Rochefort.
This is an old to\vn, with nothing of Cognac, situated on the left bank of the
interest to detain the traveler, contain- Charente, contains about 20u0 inhabitants,
ing about 2000 inhabitants. There are a and gives its name to the best brandy in
ver}' old parish church and a castle, also the world, produced from vineyards in the
some manufectories of woolen fabrics. vicinity it is the entrepot for nearly all
:
Considerable trade in com, chestnuts, and the brandies distilled on the Charente up to
trufl9esis also carried on. About eight Angouleme. The vines for its manufact-
miles from Civray. off the line of railway, is ure are allowed to run along the ground,
Ckirroux, where stand the remains of an thereby acquiring additional strength.
abbey founded by Charlemagne. Passing Francis I. was born at Cognac, while his
and »SY. Amant de Boise, we reach
Rvff'ec mother, Louise of Savoy, duchess of An-
Anfjouleme, the ancient capital of An- gouleme, was residing in its castle. Some
goumois. It stands on a rock in the historians say he was born under a large
middle of the beautiful valley of the elm-tree, his mother being unexpectedly
Charente, which Avinds its way beneath. confined while outwalking.
The city proper contains about 26,000 in- The exports of Cognac to England, for
habitants. The principal hotels ax-e Ho- her colonies and home consumption, to
tel de la Poste and Hotel de France. On North and South America, United States,
the Promenade H'-a'dien a magnificent view and India direct, as well as to all other
may be obtained of the beautiful valley parts of the world, show a A^early average
below, with the winding Charente bor- of 50,000 pipes of 112 gallons each (chiefly
dered with verdure threading its way in half pipes and quarters), and 1.000.000
through the Cognac district to the town cases of one dozen bottles each, making
itself, twenty-one miles below. Angou- in all 37,000.000 bottles per year. Of this
leme is 275 miles from Paris, and 7-1 from immense business the house of James Hen-
Bordeaux. It is built of stone, and has a nessy esportsone third, or equal to 13,000.000
clean and cheerful appeanince. The old annum ! Twenty-four thousand
bottles per
castle, with its donjon and towers, is now bottles are daily filled in their immense
turned into a prison. It was formerly the warehouses and sent oflf. in addition to
residence of the Counts of Angouleme; and 15,000 pipes annually. The brandy is all
Marguerite de Yalois, queen of Navarre, of first quality, as this house deals in no
the most beautiful and accomplished prin- other kinds and, to preserve its high repu-
;
cess of her da}', was born there. It con- tation, the members of the firm refuse to
tains a cathedral, court-house, theatre, and sell brandy in France, for the reason that
puldic library, hospitals, paper-mills, and in the bonded warehouses of Paris any
distilleries,a cannon foundry', and manu- firm can hire a building, and have sole con-
factories of sergesand earthenware. It trol over all wines or brandies sent him,
was for some time the residence of the mixing and adulterating at pleasure,
Black Prince. In the Rue de Genesee is whereas in London or New York the pur-
a house shown as the residence of John chaser is certain to obtain what the origi-
Calvin, when flying from persecution he ; {
nal grower or dealer shipped there (if he
here taught Greek to maintain himself. !
gets the article sent direct from the bond-
Montalembert. the originator of the system ed warehouse). The Messrs. Hennessy do
of fortifications, and Ravaillac, the assas- not grow any vines, but buy from the
sin of Henry IV., wore both natives of grower the first-class brandy only, and a
Angouleme. The cathedral of St. Pierre, family of four generations of tasters buy
rebuilt from its foundations in 1120, has all good that is offered : the price is fixed
the form of a Latin cross, with a dome Avell by them, and the peasantry have such faith
worthy of notice from its great beauty. in the fair dealing and liberality of the
During the wars of the Huguenots, and firm that it is never disputed drays load-
;
tions the price fixed. The bottles are were m;u'ked, and carefully re-erected where
washed on the premises, and the women the arch now stands. Royan (25 miles)
who do this work are all placed in such a may be reached by diligence from Saintes
position that they amnot talk to one another. through most lovely roads lined with ave-
An overseer from the firm that sujjplies nues of tall, thickly foliaged trees. Until
the bottles has the superintendence of their the opening of the railroad from Pons, this
washing and the trial of their strength. was the favorite method of reaching that
Two hundred men are employed in receiv- charming and much-frequented watering-
ing, delivering, tiltering, stamping boxes, place.
and coopering. Vessels on the Charente lie Rochefort contains 30,912 inhabitants. It
close to the doors of the principal ware- is strongly fortified, and forms the third mil-
house, and are continually being filled. itary port of France.It is built on the right
The brandy is all filtered by atmospheric bank of the Charente, ten miles from its
pressure. The stock on hand is of course junction with the sea. The town is com-
immense, although the great portion ship- paratively modern, having been founded
ped is from three to four years old. There b}^ Louis XIV. in 1644. To obtain permis-
are in one Avarehouse 99 casks, each con- sion to visit the dock-yard, or Porte Mili-
taining 3000 gallons, in addition to thou- taire, application must be made to our con-
sands of smaller size. The estai)lishment sul. Hotels, des Etrangeres and du Grand
well deserves a visit. The senior of the Bacha. The town
surrounded by ram-
is
firm is Mr. Augustus Hennessy, son of parts planted with trees has a tril)une of
;
the founder of the house, James Hen- commerce, a school of hydrography, a na,
nessy, whose father left Ireland at the tional college, two a botanical
libraries,
same time as the ancestor of ^larechal garden, and a maritime museum. In the
]\IacMahon, President of the Republic, and militarv' port the largest vessels float at
like him volunteered to fight the battles all seasons. Attached to it are the Bagne,
of France, and joined the celebrated Irish or convict prison, containing 1000 convicts,
Brigade. His residence, " Bagtuiht^''' is a and the Ilopital de hi Marine, the hand-
most charming place. ^Ir. ]\Iaurice Hen- somest l)uilding in Rochefort. There is
nessv occupies the ancestral mansion. La an anatomical museum attiiched to it. It
Billarderic, the beauties of tlie surround- is admiral ily conducted, and is capable of
ings not being surpassed in France. accommodating 1200 invalids. The com-
From Cognac the Cheniin de fer de la mercial jiort admits vessels of 800 tons
Charente continues to Saintes and Roche- close to the quays. The arsenal is one of
fort. the largest in France. It has immense
Saintes is an ancient town, situated on magazines, cannon founderies. and ship-
the Cliarente, with a population of 11,570, building docks. Napoleon I. arrived here
principally employed in the eau-de-vie July 3, 1815, endeavoring to make his es-
trade. Tlie brandy is shipped on barges cape to America; but, seeing there was no
and sent down the river for exportation. possible means of avoiding the English
At Saintes may be seen the ancient re- man-of-war BeUentphou, then lying in the
mains of a Roman amj)hitheatre, almost roads, he boarded her, and triod to obt^iin
equal in size to tliat of Nimes. but much a promise of safe-conduct from hor com-
inferior in architectural beauty. Tlie mander. Captain Maitland, irhch he re-
greatest length of tlie oval of the aroni' fused. As it is generally supposed that
measures 70 feet, and its width 57 feet a promise of safe-conduct was given and
the dens for inclosing the wild beasts still then violated, the error should be correct-
remain. There is another ancient monu- ed. Xi) pledge was given. In 1809, the
ment at Saintes in the form of a triumphal English, under the command of Lord Coch-
arch this, according to \\yc half-effaced
; rane, penetrated into the roads and burned
inscriptions, was raised by Caius Julius five ships. Lord Cochrane's vessel had
Rufus, priest of Roma and Augustus, dur- 1500 barrels of gunpowder on board:
411
COUTKAS. [FRANCE.] Bordeaux.
notwithstanding this, he himself steered numbers now be greatly increased by
will
through the tire of the combined forts, the opening of the railway from Pons,
amounting to 1000 guns. Steamers run making a direct communication with Paris
daily from Rochefort to Bordeaux in seven possible. The Tour de Corduuan, situated
hours fare, $1 60.
; on a rock outside the mouth of the Gironde,
Returning to our main route from An- ma}' be visited from Royan. It was de-
gouleme, Tve next pass the town of signed by one of the artists of the Escorial,
Coutros, the scene of a memorable battle Louis de Foix, and was erected during the
between the Protestants and Roman Catho- reign of Henri IF. It consists of three
lics in 1587, when the King of Navarre de- i
stories,surmounted by apopper-l)oxturret,
feated the troops of the League, led by the and of circular form ; it occupies the site
is
I
16 fr. 30 c. I
Steamers run daily from Royan to Bor-
Pons a small town of 4969 inhabitants,
is : deaux in about 7 hours.
with a castle dating from the 11th cen- ! Returning to Coutras, we pass en route
turj', now converted into a prison. j
for Bordeaux the town of
Royan is situated at the opening of the I
Lihoume. one of the "Bastides," or free
Gironde into the Atlantic, and may well be ;
towns, founded by Edward I., king of Eng-
styled one of the pleasantest of all the land, in 1286. It is inclosed by walls, and
bathing-places on the coast of France. I
contains a population of 14,960 inhabit-
Population, 4201, The Hotel de Bordeaux, ants. Distance 17 miles from Bordeaux,
decidedly the best, is advantageously situ- with which city it has considerable traffic
ated in the immediate vicinity of the Ca- in wine, brandy, and salt. Its port admits
sino, and overlooking the sea. The cook- i vessels of 300 tons at high water. It has
ing is excellent, while the rooms are neat a large cavalry barrack, and some manu-
and clean in the extreme. The breaks factures of woolen, glass, and cordage.
which convey bathers to Pontaillac stand \
La Bastide is connected with Bordeaux by
immediately opposite the hotel. The one of the most magnificent bridges in
bathing at Ro3-an is most delightful, and I
Europe. It cost nearly one and a half
suited to every taste those who prefer
;
I
million dollars. Passengers are convey-
surf-bathing should go in the afternoon to [
ed in omnibuses across this superb struct-
Pontaillac, reached by break in about five ure, and we arrive at the end of our route.
minutes from Royan (price 25 centimes).
Here, in addition to the bathers, the sands
are covered with loungers, who while away Bordeaux, situated on the left bank of
several pleasantly idle hours in chatting, the Garonne. 60 miles from its mouth
walking, sitting, eating cakes, sucre-d'orge, population, 215,140. Hotels, Nantes and
etc., all to be found for sale upon the sands. I
des Princes.
In returning to the town, those fond of ex- Bordeaux is one of the most flourishing
ercise could not do better than to walk i
cities in Europe in point of industry, com-
back b}' the cliffs in view of the setting i merce, and the cultivation of the arts and
sun. Those who prefer a swimming bath i
sciences it is the second sea-port town in
:
should go to Foncillon, a delightful beach France the river, which is here 2600 feet
;
just back of the Casino gardens, and not wide, is nearly 60 feet deep, and can at all
two minutes' walk from the Hoiel de Bor- points of its long quay accommodate ves-
deaux. The Casino is a pretty building, sels of over 1200 tons' burden. Its quay is
surrounded by most beautiful gardens, in nearly three miles long, and is lined with
which music is played two evenings in the beautiful buildings, principally of an Italian
week the others being devoted to amuse-
; style of architecture. No other city in Eu-
ments within doors, such as theatrical per- rope can boast of such a quay. It has
formances and balls. A band also plays docks and building-^-ards for every size of
in the afternoon. Royan is visited yearly vessel,even ships of the line. It is an
by from 30,000 to 40,000 strangers, whose archbishop's see, the seat of a national
412
BORDEAUX
/t^^i^''
fA
%-
V'
Bordeaux. [FRANCE.] Medoc.
court, and of a university, academy, an when conquered by the Romans : wines
its
exchan<;;e, banks, a secc)ndary school of were celebrated as far back as the 4th cen-
medicine, a scliool of navigation, collci^e, tury. It was sacked by the Visigoths,
normal school, and mint. It is put in com- who Avere driven from it by Clovis, and
munication -with the ^Mediterranean by the Avas taken by the Saracens and Normans
Eiver. Garonne and Canal du Midi. Its in the 8th and 9th centuries, and came into
commerce is carried on chiefly with the possession of the Dukes of Gascony in the
United States, Great Britain, the French 10th. In 1152 it passed, by the marriage
South America, and Mexico. It
colonies. of Henry Plantagenet with Eleanor of
is the entrepot of prohibited goods; has Guienno, sole heiress of the last native
manufactures of all Ivinds, especially tobac- duke, and remained under the dominion of
co, vine,:;ar, liqueurs, and chemical prod- England for over 300 years, since Avhich
ucts sugar and saltpetre relincries, nu-
; time it has belonged to France. The
merous distilleries, cotton and woolen spin- Black Prince, Avhile go\'ernor of Guienne,
ning, and manufactories of printed calicoes, resided at Bordeaux, and held a brilliant
and iron founderies. Its principal exports court. His son, Richard II,. was born
are wine, brandy, and fruit chief imports,
; here, and surnamed Richard of Bordeaux.
colonial merchandise, cotton goods, iron, Ohc of the most important events in the
coal, and building-timber. The principal history of Bordeaux Avas its siege, under-
merchants are engaged in the Avine trade. t^iken ly Louis XIV., his mother, and Car-
Nearly half of the i)est wines are sent to dinal Mazarin. The Avife of the great
England, since little of the finest Medoc is Conde, Avhile he Avas confined at Vincennes,
used in France. Paris takes only the sec- haA'ing escaped the clutches of Mazarin,
ond, third, and fourth rate wines perhaps
; threw herself on the protection of the citi-
a very small quantity of the best. Russia zens of Bordeaux : having captured all
consumes considerable of the best. Hol- hearts by her eloquence, beauty, and un-
land is the great mart for the second and fortunate circumstances, the magistrates
third qualities ;the United States the permitted her allies to enter the city, and
third, fourth, and fifth, with a little of the prepared to resist the forces of Louis. She
best. Before the Revolution the annual conducted the defense Avith so much heroic
export of wine amounted to 100,000 hogs- obstinacy that ^lazarin was fain to make
heads in 1827 it was about 55,000 it now
; ; terms and raise the siege at the end of a
amounts to over 200,000. The principal few weeks.
fruits exported from Bordeaux are plums The most noted "lions" of Bordeaux
and almonds. are the cellars of MM. Barton and Gues-
Among the most remarkable public edi- tier, bankers and Avine- merchants. M.
fices of Bordeaux are the remains of the Barton is owner of the vineyards of
palace of the Roman Emperor Gallinus : Chateau Langoa and Chateau Leoville ; M.
it has every appearance of a circus, capa- Guestier of Chateau de BeychevUle, Chateau
ble of containing 15,000 people the ca-
; Lacroix, and de Floriac. Their cellars
thedral of St. Andre, a fine Gothic struct- contain generally from 8000 to 10,000 hogs-
ure, distinguished by its two elegant heads and 500,000 bottles of claret and
spires, 150 feet high the church of the
; other Avines. Their agents are Aignon
F'euillants, which contains the tomb of Bene, 1 Rue Lafitte, Paris, and E. Lamon-
Montaigne the great theatre built by Louis tagne, 53 BeaA-er Street, Ncav York. Messrs.
;
XIV., one of the finest in Europe, capable John Arthur & Co., of Paris, also have here
of seating 4000 persons. A temporary pict- large supplies of Chateau Lafitte of 1865,
ure-galler}'^ may at present be visited in a Haut-Brion 1865, Latour 1865. Leoville
building opening out of the Jardin Public. 1865, Chateau Yquem 1861 and 1865, etc.,
The museum contains some very valuable Avhich they sell in Paris at Bordeaux
antique Roman fragments. The Hotel de prices.
la Marine and the triumphal arch of the BeloAv Bordeaux, on the left bank of the
Port Bourgogne are especially deserving Gironde, is tiie district of Medoc, through
of notice. the entire length of Avhich a railway now
Bordeaux, under the name of Bordigala, extends, ending at Le Verdon. a village
was a place of considerable importance situated on the Point de Grave, the eX"
413
Medoc. [FRANCE.] Medoc.
treme end of the Medoc peninsula. This being planted, but often continues produc-
isthe great seat of the "wine-culture, and tive when two hundred years old if the soil
the tract -which furnishes the wines so cel- prove congenial, and if the roots have been
ebrated under the names of Chateau Mar- able to insinuate themselves to a great
gaux and Chateau Lajitte. depth, which they sometimes do to a dis-
Time by rail from Bordeaux to Le Ver- tance of fifty feet. Four times everv-^ sea-
don, 3 hours ; fare, first class, 12 fr. 40 c. son the plow, drawn by oxen, is driven
A good view of this district may also be between the vines, alternately exposing
obtained by taking the steamer from Bor- and covering the roots. The vineyards
deaux to Koyan. Time, 7 hours. are mostly open fields ;this is even the
The long tongue of land stretching north case with the most valuable, as the ex-
from Bordeaux is the northern termination istence of walls or hedges would necessi-
of an extensive district called Les Landes, tate the loss of a large margin of ground,
which consists of a succession of sand- which would in that case be left unculti-
plains and hills, extending to the south as vated, to allow room for turning the plow.
far as Bayonne, but which in its northern The transition from the most precious land
extremity is little more than a bank of to a useless waste is most abrupt, the dis-
gravel nowhere more than two miles wide, tance of a few^ feet making all the differ-
which from its situation in the midst of ence consequently those owning any good
;
waters is called Medoc (in medio aqnce). land cultivate it to the last inch. A group
This dry and sterile peninsula is the rich- of cottages is attached to nearh^ every vine-
est wine district of France; the soil is gen- yard, and inhabited b}' the peasants who cul-
erally a light gravel, but in parts (where tivate it. As soon as the grapes begin to
the very best wine is produced) it seems to ripen, a temporary fence of twisted boughs
consist of large egg-sized pebbles slightl}'' and furze is raised around the vines to keep
mixed with sand. This stony soil is high- off dogs, who otherwise commit great dep-
ly advantageous to the growth of the vine. redations. Armed guards are posted day
The sun's heat being retained around the and night, with orders to shoot either
roots long after sundown, makes the work biped or quadruped interfering with the
of maturing the fruit continue both dav j
grapes. Poisoned sausages are strewn
and night. This strip of land is evidently through the vineyards, the fact being an-
the detritus of the Pyrenean rocks, brought nounced to the public b}'^ pieces of white
down in former ages to the borders of the paper stuck upon poles or else by streaks
sea by the mountain torrents, tributaries of of paint.
the Garonne, and other rivers. About two At the time of the vintage, which takes
or three feet below the upper strata of place in September, the peninsula is the
sand and pebble there is a hard conglom- scene of great bustle and activity vigne-
;
erated bed, called alios, which is always rons come from the other side of the river
broken up before the vine is planted, as it to assist in gathering the grapes, and the
would otherwise prevent the penetration vineyards are filled all day with busy
of the roots into the lower soil. The vines crowds of men, women, and children, whose
are planted on ridges in quincunx order, songs and laughter make the air resound
and are trained in espaliers fastened to while their fingers strip the vine of its fruit,
horizontal laths, which are supported b}' carefully removing all defective bunches
upright posts not more than two feet in or unripe or mouldy grapes. The grapes
height. The vines run in uninterrupted are then carried in tubs to the pressing
lines from one end of the vineyard to the trough, which presents a singularly merry
other, and are not allowed to rise more scene. Here upon a square wooden trough
than two feet from the ground, while in stand several men, with bare legs and feet,
the best vinieyards they almost run along dancing and stamping upon the grapes as
the soil. From time to time a little fresh the}' are thrown into this receptacle to the
mould is laid over the roots, but manure tunes of a violin. This is a very fatiguing
is rarely used in the culture, as it destroys labor, and were it not for 4;he enlivening
the fine quality of the wine, while standing poAver of the music the treaders would soon
\vater is very injurious. The vine does become completely exhausted. At this
not begin to produce until five vears after time the neighboring chateaux are gener-
414
MONTFERRAND. [FRANCE.] Blaye.
ally inhabited by the pioprietors and nu- department. During the time of the Revo-
merous friends, who come to make merry lution, however, when the Girondists were
at this busy season. After the grapes have overthrown by their antagonists of the
been well broken and pressed, the skins ^Mountain, even the name of this depart-
are separated from the stalks, and the for- ment was changed, and was known for
mer are poured together with the juice into several months by that of Amiies.
vats, where the skins rise to the surface, Bourg, a town of 3855 inhabitants, may
and the wine, after a certain amount of be seen at a little distance up the Dor-
fermentation, is drawn off into hogsheads. dogne. It stands on an eminence sur-
In judging the extent to which the fer- rounded by vineyards, which 200 years
mentation should be carried, much expe- ago produced the best wines of the district,
rience is required, as upon it much of the the Medoc not having been cultivated for
quality of the vintage depends. more than 250 years. Here Louis XIV.
The different gi'owths, or qualities of passed nearh' a year (1649-50), with his
wine, are classed in the Medoc in o-us, ac- mother, Anne of Austria, during the siege
cording to their excellence. of Bordeaux, which Cardinal Mazarin
The premiers cms, or first-class wines, came to superintend, dragging with him
are four in number : the court, headed b}' the king and regent.
At the PaiiL de Sucre, a landing-place at
Chateau Margaux,
the mouth of the Dordogne, half a mile
Chateau Lafitte,
from Bourg, the steamer stops to set down
Chateau Latour,
passengers.
Haut-Brion.
Nearly opposite the Pain de Sucre, on
The principal of the deuxiemes cms are the left, a slight view may Ije obtained of
the
Mouton,
Chateau Margavx. It stands some dis-
Leoville,
tance inland, and is a handsome Italian
Chateau Rauzan.
villa belonging to the Aguados. Around
Also Gruan Laroze, Chateau Beyche- it are the vineyards which produce the
ville, Pichon, Longueville, Durfort, De- celebrated Chateau Margaux, the finest
gorse, Lascombe, and Cos-Destournelle. wine of the Medoc. It is yielded hy a
The third, fourth, and fifth cms it is need- small grape, somewhat resembling black
less to enumerate; many of them are pro- currants in taste. The village, abounding
duced in close vicinity to the first-class in neat - looking whitewashed villas, is
vineyards, and a good season will some- about half a mile from the chateau.
times give an excellence to second-class Blaye is next passed on the right of the
wines, while a bad season will sink those river, with the remains of an old feudal
of first-class to mediocrity. fortress where the Duchesse de Berri was
Below Bordeaux the Garonne is a broad imprisoned for seven months after her
tidal river, much charged with mud, with capture at Nantes. The body of Roland
low banks overgrown with willows, and the Brave is said to have been brought
bordered by marsh and meadoAV lands, here by Charlemagne, and to liave been
which separate it from the vineyards. To interred in the church of St. Rumain, to-
the right we soon pass the village of Mont- gether with his sword, Durandal, and bis
ferrand, near which is a chateau once the famous ivory horn ;the body was later
residence of one of the ministers of Charles removed to the church of St. Scrnin, Bor-
X., the Comte de Pcyronnet, a signer of deaux.
the fatal ordinances of July, 1830. The The modern citadel of Blaye overlooks
Garonne is bordered on the right by a nar- the river, and, together with the fort dii
row tongue of land called Entre Deux Paii, situated on an island in the cen-
Mers, which separates it for some distance tre, and the fort Medoc on the opposite
from the Dordogne here a large quantity
; bank, commands the passage of the Gi-
of inferior wines are raised. At its ex- ronde.
treme point, the Bee d'Ambes, the two After passing IMargaux on the left, there
rivers meet, and form the broad estuary of isa succession of inferior vineyards until
the Gironde, which gives its name to the we reach
415
Betcheville. [FRANCE.] Arcachon.
M.Nathaniel RothschildjWhile one mile and Grand Hotel, the best in Arcachon, as
ahalf inland is the vineyard oi Chateau La- well as one of the finest in France. This
ftte, the property of Baron Rothschild, pro- \
beautiful building, overlooking the sea, was
ducingone of the three best Bordeaux wines, constructed in 1866, and belongs to the
'
gratified by a visit to the Chateau Peniaud, rooms, and is traversed by a lofty hall,
situated in the commune of Barsac, about ending in marble terraces overlooking the
15 miles from Bordeaux, This estate was sea and principal boulevard. In the base-
formerly the property of Mr. Laurent Sau- ment is a hydropathic establishment, as
vage d' Yquem, and went, later, to his heirs, well as the cabins for sea-bathers, where cos-
the brothers of Sur Saluces, and actually tumes and all the requirements necessary
belongs to Mr. Alphonse Chaumette. are provided for one franc a bath. Those
The wines of this excellent growth, remaining some time in Arcachon can
gathered and prepared with most particular take an abonnement, which reduces the
care, equal those of the best growths in the price per bath. From the hotel a succes-
world, and are distinguished by their re- sion of villas extend on each side along
markable richness of taste and tlavor. the shore, with cabins in front belonging
They are now
considered as the best wines to the owners. The society owning the
of Sauterne and Yquem, and obtained as hotel possesses also a large number of
such great success at the Exhibition. both in the summer and winter
I villas
Bordeaux to Arcachon. Time, 1 h. 24 m. ; towns, which they rent furnished at most
i
'
Bordeaux to Pau, via Dax. Time, 5 h. numerous villas built in the midst of the
32 m. fare, 28 fr. 65 c. (Pau, Route 119.) pine-forests. In addition to its popularity
;
for Bayonne as far as Lamothe, whence a pines producing in all cases of illness a
'
branch line runs off to the right, reaching most salubrious effect.
\
this beautiful town in about 40 minutes. The Casino is a pretty Moresque build-
Arcachon is a rapidly increasing bath- ing, with domes and minarets, situated on
ing town, situated on the southern shore a hill overlooking the town, and surround'
\
416
Dax. [FRANCE.] Bayonne.
the midst of the pine-forest, and surround- high-roads leading from France to Spain,
ed by an extensive park. There are three as well as the passes of the West Pyrenees.
churches in Arcachon : Notre Dame du It is situated at the junction of the Nive
Bassin, Saint Ferdinand, and Moulleau. and Adour, and is divided by them into
The first of these is a celebrated place of three parts the banks of the rivers are
;
pilgrimage for fishermen, and is filled with lined with quays and shipping. Popula-
their exvotos. It contains an alabaster tion, 26,333. Hotels, du Commerce and ^7.
statue of the Virgin, found buried in the Etienne. Bayonne is a well-built and
sands by Thomas Hhn-icus, a fiimous agreeable city, with handsome quays and
preacher of the 16th century. The Moul- promenades its cathedral is small and
;
leau is reached by a pleasant drive through of little importance but its citadel is
;
the pine-forest it is a small sand-hill sur- one of the grandest works of Tauban.
; It
mounted by a Dominican convent, which has a mint, theatre, schools of commerce
overlooks the sea facing toward the light- and navigation, naval and commercial
house. At its base are grouped a small docks, tribunal and chamber of oommerce,
number of habitations, which will soon distilleries, sugar-refineries, and glass-
spread, and Moulleau will become in a few works, and exports large quantities of
years a part of Arcachon. superior hams, timber, chocolate, and tar.
Arcachon boasts also a club, situated in The military w^eapon, the baymef, takes
the centre of the town, and a fine Aquarium its name from this place, where it was in-
net five minutes' walk from the Grand vented in the seventeenth ccntur}'. A
Hotel. Basque regiment, being short of ammu-
There are extensive oyster parks in the nition, assaulted the Spaniards opposed
vicinity, of which the fishery is valued at to them by sticking their long knives,
1,500,000 frs. which they commonly carried, in the
Returning from Arcachon to Lamothe, barrel of their guns. This city, though
we soon reach often besieged, has never been taken, and
Morcenx, where a branch line runs off to gained immortal notoriety by refusing
the left to Tarbes and Bagneres. to participate in the massacre of St. Bar-
Dax^ a town situated on the left bank tholomew.
of the Adour, and containing 9469 inhab- An extensive commerce is carried on
itants, is the next place of importance. here in wool, which is imported from
Here are the celebrated hot springs, one Spain an active smuggling trade is also
;
built by the late Lord Howden, a fine view is then mild and bracing, and the living
of the Pyrenees may be obtained, as well very cheap from November to June.
as of liayonne and its winding rivers. The Casino is a large, handsome building
Just outside the town stands the ruined in four stories, with pavilions and balconies
Chateau de Marrac, destroyed b}-^ fire in overlooking the sea, and containing an as-
1825, which belonged to Napoleon I., and sembly-hall for balls and concerts, card, bill-
in which he received Charles II. of Spain iard,and reading-rooms, etc, etc., much fre-
and his queea, attended by Godoy. Here quented b}"- English and American visitorsr
it was that the sovereigns resigned their Pleasant excursions can be made to
hereditary rights to the throne of Spain, Cambo^ a prettv watering-place on the
which was afterward given by the em- Nive, reached by carriage or by diligence
peror to his brother Joseph, from Bayonne ; here are the breeding-
Biarritz is reached by rail in twenty-five '
increased rapidly in size during the reign now become so encumbered with sand as
of the late emperor, who passed here with '
of each year. The Vil'a Eugenie, a modest 2829.) The streets are narrow, with
building of English brick, was construct- whitewashed houses, some of which may
ed in 1855 as a residence for the em- boast of great antiquity. In the church
press, who had been a constant visitor to the marriage of Louis XIY. with Maria
Biarritz in her maiden days. Grand Ho- Theresa of Spain was solemnized in 1660,
tel^ one of the finest, in every wa}', in and the Maison Lohobragne, the house
France. \
used as the royal residence, is still in ex-
The shore here is lined with cliffs forty or istence. The town protected from the
is
fifty feet in height, in which innumerable sea bj' a strong wall, and a mole is in
coves have been excavated by the sea, and course of construction across the bay to
pieces of rock have been detached, and protect the liarbor from further incursions
stand like islands at some distcince from of the sand,
the shore. One of these coves, called the i
St. Jean de Luz is situated in the Pai/s
Vieux Port, is the chief resort of bathers. Basque, a province which extends only
A small harbor of refuge has been con- over a small portion of France (the west-
structed by connecting some of the de- ern corner of the Departoment des Basses
tached rocks bv blocks of artificial stone, P}Tenees),but which spreads far into Spain.
and adding at the extremity a breakwater, It is inhabited by a race speaking a lan-
I
by the light-house which marks the en- who sided with Hannibal against the Ro-
tr.ince to the Adour, and on the left by
I
mans. They also contributed mostly to
the coast of Spain. I
the defeat of Charlemagne and Roland in
The fashionable season at Biarritz ex- the pass of Roncevaux, and their boast is
tends through the months of September tha+ they never have been conquered. At
and October, the heat before that time be- Hendaye, eight miles farther, the lug-
ing excessive, but it is also greatly re- gage of travelers entering France from
418
Langon. [FRANCE.] Agex.
Spain is examined unless booked for Paris. ic church dating from the 13tli to the 15th
Tliose entering Spain have their luggage centur}'. Passing Marm'ind", a town of
opened at Irun. 8564 inhabitants, we reach
Irun io Madrid; time, 19 h. 20 m. ; fare, Ti,nneins, beautifully situated on the
83 fr. 30 c. (iioute 92, Vol. III.) right bank of the (iaronne. Population,
Ii-un ro Bordeaux ; time, G h. 36 m. ; fare, 8275. Throughout this part of the (country,
29 fr. 5 c. (this Route). particularly in the villages, the inhabitants
Irun to Paris ; time, 18 h. 32 m. ; fare, principally profess the Protestant religion.
101 10 c. (this Route to Bordeaux, thence
fr. Tol)acco is cultivated in large quantities in
Route 117 to Poitiers, thence Route 115 to the neighborhood of Tonneins. where there
Paris). is a royal manufactory, as well as extensive
near wliicli is the Chateau de la Bride, the of tlie D'Albret family, who built here a
family seat and birthplace of Secondat de castle, of which one wing only now remains,
Montesquieu. Here his great work. " Sur while its fosses have been converted into
la Grandeur et la Decadence des Roniains, gardens. Here Marguerite d'Angouleme,
was composed. queen of Navarre, held her court, and as-
At Langon, a town of 4505 inhabitants, sembled around her men distinguished for
situated on the left bank of the Garonne, learning and literary genius, such as Cal-
partly surrounded l)y old walls, a branch vin, Beza, and Clement Marot, who found
line runs off to Nizni, VUlandraut, and here for a time an asylum from persecution.
Bazas. Near the former place is a castlo, King Henry IV. passed a great portion of
the birthplace of Bertrand de Goth, after- his youth here, and the chamber occupied
ward Pope Clement V. by him in the west end of the building is
Bazas is an ancient town which existed still pointed out. A council was also held
during the time of the Romans, mentioned in this castle by Catherine de' Medici in
by Ausonius (whose father was born here) 1579. The town promenade, called La
under the name of Vesates. Fragments Garennc, once formed a part of a park
of the old walls Hanked by the towers still planted l)y Marguerite de Valois, while
remain. Population, 4766. near the Fontaine de St. Jean stand two
Returning to our main route, the rail- elms, one planted by the last-named queen
way crosses the Garonne, tidal up to this and tlie other by Henri IV. The town
point, to contains a bronze statue of the monarch,
St. Macriire, where there is a line Ro- erected to his memory by a private in-
manesque church dating from the 12th dividual.
century. At is an ancient town of 18,887 inhab-
Affen
La Rfio'e, a town containing 4244 inhab- itants,beautifully situated on the right
itants, there are tlie ruins of an ancient bank of the Garonne, 73 miles from Bor-
castle attributed by Froissart to the Sara- deaux. Hotel du Petit St. Jean. This was
cens. The town also contains a line Goth- the Af/edinuni of the Romans, where the
419
MOISSAC. [FRANCE.] Toulouse.
early Christians suffered severe persecu- Louis XIII., who besieged it three months
tion at the hands of a praetor ; St. Vincent, in vain, and Louis XIV., who singled out
the second bishop, and many followers be- its inhabitants for pui-poses of direst per-
ing torn to pieces on the site of the pres- secution.
ent Fontaine St. Vincent. The town con- The river is by a handsome quay,
lined
tains some good public edifices, including and crossed a brick bridge constructed
b}'
the Prefecture Seminary, and a public li- in 1335, at the end of which stands the
brary of 12,000 volumes. Its principal
|
Prefecture the town also contains a good
;
guerite de Valois and her maids, who were college, and several manufactories of wool-
here at the time, had some curious advent- en tissues. The promenade of Les Ttr-
ures in escaping. Jasmin, the last of the rasses, which extends along the highest
troubadours, whose songs are so univer- part of the ramparts and along the borders
sally sung throughout the south of France, of the Tescon, commands a fine view of
was bom here also Joseph Justus, son of
; the distant Pyrenees, and of the immense
the great scholar Julius Scaliger, and the plain extending from them to the sea.
naturalists Lacepede and Bory de St. Vin- From Montauban the railway to Tou-
cent. louse runs parallel with the Garonne, pass-
From Agen to Toulouse, via Montauban. ing the spot (nearly opposite Castelnau)
Time, 2 h. 25 m. ; fare, 14 fr.90 c. where the Duke of Wellington crossed with
From Agen to Tarbts. Time, 5 h. 37 m. his army before the battle of Toulouse by
fare, 18 fr. 25 c. means of two pontoon bridges.
From Agen Paris. Time, 16 h. 25
to Toulouse. —
(From Paris direct, via Or-
m. ; fare, 80 c.
88 fr. leans and Limoges, in 1 5 h. 55 m. fare, 89 fr.
;
Continuing our route from Agen to Mont- 10 c. ; Route 120 to Nexon). Hotels Midi :
suburb of St. Cijprien, the portion of the 1 tels, St.Jean Baptiste and Bonnet. The
city so seriously damaged by the inunda- town is divided into two parts, the newtoAvn
tions of 1875, when more than 20,000 per- and old city. The former is benutifuUv
sons found themselves without a lodging, laid out, on level ground, well huilt, trav-
and in aiding whom the brave Marquis ersed by running streams, furnished with
d'Hautpoul lost his life. A
curious fact marble fountains, and has many liandsome
has been noted in reference to these inun- squares and planted Avalks one of the Irst
:
dations, viz., that since the commencement leads to the aqueduct bridge of Tresquet,
of the present century the great floods in and is ornamented with a marble column
the Garonne have taken place with a sort to the memory of Riquet, the engineer of
of periodical regularity — in 1815, 1835, and the Canal du Midi. The old city stands
ls75. This river has long been remarked on an eminence, and is interesting "as re-
as one of the most dangerous of torrential taining unchanged, to a greater extent than
streams according to calculations made in
; any other town in France, the aspect of a
18J:8, its volume
at the time of its excessive fortress of the Middle Ages." It is in-
overflow is 243 times greater than when closed by walls of great solidity, portions
the stream is at low-water mark. of which are supposed to be as ancient as
After leaving Toulouse, the road runs the time of the Visigoths, and contains the
some distance along the Canal du Midi Casde and Church of St. Xozaire. This
This stupendous Avork, completed about the last contains the tomb of Simon de Mont-
middle of the 17th century, connecting the fort, earl of Leicester, that brave but cruel
Atlantic with the Mediterranean, is over warrior who lost all the laurels he had
150 miles in length, and cost nearly seven gained in the holy wars by his butchery of
million dollars. heretical Christians, the Albigenses ; his
Passing through several unimportant tomb is a slab of red marble, and is situ-
villages, we reach ated at one side of the high altar. The
Cdst-hiaudiry, a town of 9328 inhabit- other fine edifices are the new cathedral,
ants, which carries on an extensive trade with a lofty spire, the public library, pre-
in corn and flour it is a place of great an-
; fecture, town hall, barracks, theatre, cov-
tiquity, deriving its name from the Visi- ered market, and church of St. Vincent.
goths, by whom it was refounded. Dur- Carcassonne has been celebrated since the
ing the crusade against the Albigenses it 12th century ibr its manufacture of cloths,
suffered severely, the castle being attacked not less tlian 8000 persons out of the 23,000
and taken at different periods both by being employed in that particular branch
Simon de Montfort and the Count of of industry the trade in agricultural pro-
:
Aude and the Canal du Midi, 55 miles also in wine, oil, brandy, and salt. Nar-
from Toulouse. Population, 23,G44. Ho- bonne is one of the oldest cities in Gaul
422
Perpignan. [FRANCE.] Mabtkes.
it received a Roman colony in 121 B.C., j
Portet Saint-Simon, the first station, is a
and was made the metropolis of S. Gaul. i small village of 1006 inhabitants, situated
At that time it had a port, which does not at the confluence of the Ariege and Ga-
now exist. The museum and picture-gal- ronne, but is a place which in the Middle
lery are well worth a visit. . Ages was a sort of small republic, possess-
Anexcursion might I)e made from Nar- ing rights of administration which were
bonne to the thoroughly Spanish town of preserved to a very late period.
Perpignan: Spanish in its language, dress, Murct, situated at the junction of the
and character, although belonging to Louge and Garonne, with a population of
France since the middle of the 17th cen- 4143, dates back to the end of the 11th cen-
fcur^^ It has a population of 27,.'378. It tury. The plains extending to the north
lies thirty-four miles south of Narljonne. of the town were the site of the terrible
Hotd de Perpignan, Ilotd de r Europe, and battle which took place in 1213 between
Hotel des Amhassideitrs. It is a fortified the Alljigenses, headed by the Count of
town, and the citadel, considered impreg- Toulouse, aided by a Spanish arm}' under
nable, is separated from the town by a the orders of Pedro, king of Aragon, and
wide glacis. The spot is pointed out where tlie forces of the Pope under Simon de
the Emperor Charles V., going his rounds, Montfort. The papal army, besieged with-
discovered a sentinel asleep at his post he ; in the walls of Muret, macle a sortie 14,000
pushed him off into the ditch, took his gun, strong, and, although opposed by 40,000
and stood sentinel until the guard was re- men, were completely victorious, killing or
lieved. The chief edifices, next to the cit- taking prisoners over 20,000 of that num-
adel, are the cathedral and military prison. ber. A tomb is to be seen in the garden
The town also contains a tribunal of com- of a country-house about half a mile from
merce, a primary normal school of design, Muret said to be that of King Pedro, slain
a library, and botanical garden manu- ; in the battle. Marshal Nicl and the com-
factories of woolens, paper, and hats. It poser Dalayrac were natives of Muret.
has an extensive commerce in the wines Jfartres is probably the ancient Ai gnnia,
of the country, wool, silk, iron, and cork. which served as a citadel to Calagorris.
Philip the Bold died here in 1285. It was Here, in the time of Charlemagne, a duke
taken by Louis XI. in 1474, and by Louis of Alen^on becoming prisoner of the Sara-
XIII. in 16-42. The French conquered the cens, was exchanged for his son Vidian,
Spaniards near it in 1793. A magnificent Avho being sold as a slave to an Anglo-
view may be bad from the top of the cit- Saxon lady, regained his liberty, and com-
adel. menced immediately to wage war against
Narhonnc to Cette (and Spain), on Route the infidels.After innumerable successes,
121, in 1 h. 12 m. fare, 8 fr. Qb c.
; he was finally defeated and killed before
A'arbonne'to Barcelona, via Perpignan, Angonia the town was taken by assault,
:
in 9 h. 35 m. fare, 34 fr. 55 c.
; and the number of Christians massacred
was so great that the place has since gone
—
by the name of Martes, or ^lartres "town
of martyrs." To the south of the town is
a small watercourse, bordered by poplars,
where Vidian is said to have washed his
wounds before dying, and which is conse-
ROUTE No. 119. quently held in superstitious reverence.
Toulouse Bayonne, via Montrejeau
to Here a fete was held yearly by the peas-
(Luchon), Tarhcs (Bagn6res-de-Bigorre), ants, ending in a simulated combat between
Pau, and Orthez. Time, 8 h. 26 m. fare, ; Moors and Christians.
39 fr. 65 c. (mail route). In the village church is a small chapel,
Leaving Toulouse, the railway crosses also dedicated to St. Vidian, and dating
the Canal du Midi and the Garonne, pass- from the 13th century.
ing on the left the Braqueville asylum for Several remains of Roman statues and
idiots of both sexes, four hundred of whom other antiquities were found in 1826 by a
may be admitted here by the payment of peasant in a small cave not far from the
from 90 c. to 3 fr. a dav each. town. These have been removed to the
423
St. Martoky. [FRANCE.] LUCUON.
rare and interesting objects. Near wood-engravings in the choir the walls
;
St. Martoty (1030 inhabitants) stand are hung with indiff"erent paintings, repre-
the ruins of the Ahbaye de Bonnefont, found- >
senting the miracles of the patron, St. Ber-
ed in 1136 by Flandurie de Montpazat for trand.
monks of the Cistercian order. These The grotto of Gargas, 4 miles distant,
monks were at first so poor that they were is one of the the Pyrenees, and is
finest in
celebrated for the beauty and extent of its
'
the months of July and August Luchon is Lixon, Flavia, daughter of Rufus and Pau-
the most frequented. The direction of the line: she has accomplished her vosv.")
valley enables the northern winds to sweep From this god Luchon evidently derived
through it, and to modify somewhat the its name.
summer heat, which is certainl}' more bear- Back of the establishment zigzag paths
able here in June or September. The time run up the hill called Superbagneres to
of year at which the waters seem to prove the Jardin Anglais.
most beneficial is, however, in the lirst- A
casino is to be constructed at Luchon,
named months. as hitherto there has been no place for
The Etahlissement de Bains is situated at evening reunion or entertainment; the
the southern end of the Allee cVEtigny. new building is to stand in the centre of
It stands at the foot of a precipitous hill of the quadrilateral formed by the Allee de la
slate, well wooded, in the midst of a pretty Pique, the Allee des Quinconces, the new
garden the building, Avliich is very hand-
; boulevards, and the Allee de Pique ; it is
some, has in front a colonnade of 28 mar- to contain concert-rooms, theatre, ball and
ble pillars leading into the Salle des Pas reading rooms, billiard-room, and buffet;
Perdus, also a hall of marble. Within, ev- the whole to be on a very grand scale.
I
sis; but they are injurious to persons of san- ! carriage being 6 fr. Starting from Luchon
guine temperament, or those afflicted with '
obtained. About 350 yards from the cas- for the excursion, 6 hours ; carriages, four
I
tle are the ferruginous springs, the waters horses, 30 two horses, 25 fr. a horse
fr. ; ;
I
of which may be obtained fresh in Luchon and guide, 5 fr. each. Omnibuses run
every morning (50 c. a bottle) b}'- those twice a day price to go and return, 4 fr.
;
and beautiful cascades. At the end of the in summer and winter; these, however,
valley are three small inns, where visitors are none of the best. A ten minutes' walk
put up their horses, and where they may from this house through the forest of Siv-
obtain refreshments. About 200 yards just brings you to the Cascade du Pansien,
back of these houses is the cascade d'En- a fall almost artificial-looking from its reg-
fer, a most magnificent fall. Above it are ularity.
two bridges, reached by a narrow path in I
—
Port de Venasque. This excursion, re-
about fortj^-five minutes, which command turning by the Port de la Picade, requires
a most glorious view into the raging gulf 11 hours horse and guide, 8 fr. each.
;
below. From them a path lateh"^ con- From Luchon the road to the Hospice is
structed ascends still higher to the glaciers taken, from which point the Port is reached
half way between the Pont Nadre and the in three hours walking, or two hours and
glaciers a naiTow path, impracticable for a half on horseback. Crossing a small
horses, leads to the Kue d'Enfer. This is a mountain torrent called the Pesson, you
narrow fissure or groove cut in the mount- may take any of the paths which cross the
ain, through which the waters take their grass-grown elevation in front of you, as
course, after falling from a perpendicular they all reunite in one which leads direct-
rock of great height. Returning to the inns ly to the Port. Two waterfalls are pass-
at the foot of the mountains, and continu- ed, and about two thirds of the way is a
ing the route on horseback, we reach in thir- stone cross, constructed of rough i3locks
ty minutes the Cascade du Coeiir, formed by placed one above the other this is called;
two mountain falls, which unite after flow- V Homme, and commemorates the death of
ing round an immense moss-grown rock, a French custom-house officer assassinated
oblong in shape, and somewhat resembling here. Further on is a recess called the
a heart. The fall to the left, which is the Trou des Chaudronniers, where nine un-
finest, descends from the glaciers of Pique- fortunate traveling tinkers perished in the
426
Lac d'Oo. [FRANCE.] Cazeacx-de-l'Arbocst.
snow. Al)Out a mile and a half higher the overshadows the valley of Luchon on the
road overlooks five small lakes or tarns, north, past the village of Trebons. The
of which the largest, the Lac Bleu^ is situ- One is crossed twice again, as well as the
ated just under the Port. They are sur- Neste, which takes its rise in the Vallea
rounded by snow, and are frozen over the d'Oueil, before reaching the chapel of St.
greater part of the year. The path in- Aventin. According to legend, this saint,
creases in steepness, and turns abruptly at having been imprisoned by the Moors in
every six or eight feet, just before reaching I
the ruined Castel-Blancat, threw himself
the Port. This is a mere wedge-shaped from the walls ; and being upheld by an-
fissure cut into the mountain, partly b}-- nat- gels, fell gently on the rock where the
ure and partly by man, and which forms ;
chapel now stands. The print made by
a gateway between France and Spain, the j
his feet in the granite, which softened like
exact boundary being marked by an iron I
wax to receive him, is still shown. Being
cross. The Port is about 1-i feet wide, the followed by the Moors, his head was cut
rocky wall on the right being formed by off, and his body thrown into a hole, wiiere
the Pic de la Mine, and that on the left by 1 it was discovered three hundred years later,
the Pic de Sauvegarde. The latter is easy owing to the strange conduct of a bull, who
of ascent, and from its summit a most I
pawed up the earth liere daily until atten-
beautiful view opens out over the neigh- tion was called to the spot. The body of
boring peaks and the Jfaladetta, the the saint was placed in a rude shrine be-
liighest mountain of the Pyrenees, deriv- hind the altar of the village church. Be-
ing its name of accursed from its bleak and yond St. Aventin, on the road to Cazeaux,
dreary aspect Tlie Port de Venasque is stands a column ercctwl in honor of Napo-
situated 7930 feet alcove the level of the leon II
sea the town of that name is as distant
; Cazeaux-de-V Arhoust contains a Roman-
on the Spanish side as Luchon is on the esque church of the 12th century, witli in-
French the Spanish hospice is situated
; teresting mural paintings (15th), of which
on the right bank of the Essera, about Ik the most remarkable represents the Last
hours' walk from the Port, and is occupied Judgment. From here the path to the
by a body of carabineers. Here passports Lac d'Oo runs along the slopes of a hill
and permits for the entrance of horses into overlooking the valley d'Oo, with the lake
Spain are required, and any luggage is ex- at its extremity, until reaching the village,
amined. The return to Luchon may be where it crosses the Oo, and continues
made bj' the Port de la Picade, another along the right bank through pastures and
pass or gateway cut in the Pefia Blanca, open meadows until it readies the Granges
or Poumero, the same ridge through which d'Astos. Here the route ceases to be prac-
the Port de Yenasque opens. This gate- ticable for carriages, and horses may be
way, which separates Catalonia and Ara- obtained for reaching the lake. Kefresh-
gon, is reached by turning to the left, pass- ments are also served here to any who ma}''
ing the fountain of Pefia Blanca and that require them. The road from here to the
of Cousteres it is 7878 feet above the lev-
; lake is a gradual ascent, passing, soon after
el of the sea. From it a path descends to leaving the Granges, the torrent o( Esquier-
tlie Goueil de Joueou (Eye of Jupiter), I rg, with a charming cascade called theC^e-
where the waters descending from the j
vJure d'' Maddcine. A bridge across the
Maladetta come to light, forming one of stream leads into the valley of the Esquicr-
the sources of the Garonne, and to Artignes- ry, called the garden of the Pyrenees from
Delin, while another descends on the left to its innumerable flowers. From here the
the Hospice, from which point it is easy to road mounts, by a long scries of zigzags, a
regain Luchon. high, rocky promontory, which stretches
—
Lac d'Oo or de Seculejo. Time required, across the valley, and from which glimpses
8 hours carriage, four horses, 30 fr. two
; ; are obtained, from time to time, of the rap-
horses, 25 fr., as far as the Granges d'Astos; ids and cascades of Badech, formed by the
horses and guides, G fr. each. torrent in issuing from the lake. The lat-
Leaving Luchon by the AUee des Sou- ter part of the route is through fir woods,
pirs, the road crosses the One, and contin- '.
it abounds in trout. The depth of the wa- hotels de France and des Pyrenees.
On the road from here to Tournay the
'
Bigorre 12 hours are required ; price from and the houses low, with large courts and
60 to 80 francs. gardens. The waters of the Adour are
Four trains run daily from Montrejeau distributed in all parts of the town by
to Tarbes ;distance 34 miles. Twelve means of two large canals. Tarbes exist-
miles from Montrejeau we pass ed in the time of Caesar under the name
JMunemezan, a village of some 1172 inhab- of Bigorra or de Baigorry ; later it was
itants. It contains a Romanesque church, known as Tarvia, Tarva, and Tarba. In
with a special opening like that of Cieutat j
the middle of the 10th century, the town,
for the Cagots, who were not allowed to pen- I
which had suffered greatly from the inva-
etrate into the church until the middle of sions of the Goths and Vandals, was rebuilt
the 17th century, but heard mass standing by Raymond I,, and became the capital of
outside. Alarge military camp has lately the county of Bigorre. Later it formed
been established on the surrounding pla- part of the dowry of Eleanor de Guienno,
428
KOUTES. [FRANCE.] BAGNkRES-DE-BlGORRE.
through whom it became a possession of I rich plain of Tarbes, at the entrance to the
the Eu^lisli, who retained it down to the Canipan valley the streets are lined with
;
I
reign of Ciiarles VII. The Ijlack Prince I long avenues of trees and cheerful-looking
here held his court. The cathedral, a !
whitewashed houses, giving to the whole
n)odern edifice, with little of interest, oc- a most inviting aspect.
cupies the site of the castle of the counts Bigorre has chiefly become celebrated
of Bigorre. Adjoining this is the Prefect- through the possession of warm saline
ure, formerly the bishop's palace, in the springs, of which there are about fifty, di-
gardens of which stand the ruins of a vided between different bathing establish-
chapel, and cloisters containing some Ro- j
ments. The waters van,' in temperature
man inscriptions and statues. The J/«- from 87"^ to 123'' Fahrenheit, and are
aeum, situated in the midst of the public ;
chieli}'^ efficacious in affections of the di-
garden (Jardin Mussey), contains some I
gestive organs.
good pictures. There are some few manu- The Thermes de Mane Ther'ese, or public
factures, but little to detain the traveler, bathing establishment, contains ten of
if we except the races, which take place these springs, viz.. La Reine (so called
yearly in the month of August, and which from Jeanne de Navarre, mother of Henri
are the finest in the southern part of IV., who drank of the waters in 15G7),
France. The government possesses a stud Le Dauphin, Roc de Lannes, Foulon, Saint-
here for improving the breed of horses Roch, Salies, Romaine, des Yeux, du Pla-
they form one of the principal sources of tane, and La Rampe. The building is
revenue in this department, the markets large, and contains 34 bathing cabinets
and fairs of Tarbes being particularly cele- and 10 douches but the bathing facilities
;
situated on the left bank of the Adour, ant, which adorned the front of a temple
which is here greatly reduced in size, consecrated to Diana, may be seen to-daj'
owing to a network of canals into which in mounting the staircase of the Thermes.
its waters have been turned for purposes In digging the foundations of this build-
of irrigation, and also for working numer- ing in 1823, numerous medals, columns,
ous marble and paper mills. Population, and marble baths were discovered buried
94G4. far down in the earth.
ITolelsde Paiis and de France, both The church of St. Vincent possesses a fine
finel}^ and well managed.
situated porch and doorway in the style of the Re-
This town is situated at one end of the naissance, attributed to Jeanne d'Albret,
Vor.. I.- r -2
429
Bagneres-de-Bigorre. [FRANCE. Bagneres-de-Bigorre.
filled with fossilized shells, and the green trejeau, and to Bordeaux by Tarbes for;
and flesh-colored marbles of Campan. Pil- time and fare, see Tarbes.
lars, vases, tables, slabs, chimney-pieces, Guides and ponies for excursions in the
and other articles are made here, all at neighborhood are easily obtained also se-;
and seems but a ribbon of foam, to the Lac called Mirambel, and its castle, now used
Bleu. This lake, one mile in length, is : as a barrack, sustained a long siege, during
situated on the summit of a lofty rock, I
which it was held by Mira, a Saracen
G424: feet above the level of tlie sea, and is \
prince, who ended by capitulating and be-
surrounded by craggy peaks with snow}' coming a Christian. He then took the
declivities, and but for the rich blue of the name of Louis, and the town was called
water, from which it takes its name, would Lordes, or Lourdes. By the treaty of
be a dreary place indeed. In 1859 a canal B:etigny, in 13G0, Lourdes was ceded to
was pierced through the rock, costing I
the English as part ransom of the French
400,000 francs, by means of which the j
King John, and was afterward visited by
waters of the lake were made available in I
the Black I'rince. Being attacked in
times of drought. Xear the lake is a 13G9 by the army of the Duke of Anjou,
small inn, with poor accommodations. the town was taken in sixteen days, but
The ascension of the Pic da Midi may be the castle remained impregnable, and the
made either from here or from Bari'ges French were obliged to retreat after burn-
(for description of route, see Bareges). ing the town. The unfortunate governor
The distance by carriage-road across the of Arnaud de Berne,
the castle. Pierre
Tourmalet to the latter place is 25 miles, who had taken oath to the Black
his
requiring from 7 to 8 hours to accomplish, Prince to guard his stronghold faithfully,
including a halt to rest the horses. was requested by his natural brother, the
lleturning to Tarbes b}' rail (for time and Count Gaston-Phcebus, to meet him at
faro, see Tarbes), we continue on our main ;
Orthez, to confer on the political situation,
route to Bayonne, via Lourdcs and Pau. and on his arrival was called upon to de-
From Tarbes to Louvdes. Time, 45 min- liver the castle to its natural owners. On
utes ; fare, 2 fr. 40 c. I
his refusal to break his ha was
oith
Before reaching Lourdes we pass I
stabbed live times, and then thrown into a
Ossitn, a small town of 2438 inhabitants, I
dungeon to die. His death however served
which carries on a rather extensive trade little the cause of the French, as before his
m
LOURDES. [FRANCE.] Argeles.
by of Napoleon while
order returning " Allez boire h la fontaine et vous y laver "
through France from the East. (the words used by the Virgin to Bernadette
It is not, however, owing to its historical in one of her apparitions), " Fevrier, 1858,"
associations or to the beauty of its environs Above the grotto a church has been con-
that Lourdes has become so famous, but on structed in the style of the 13th century
account of the numerous apparitions of the (1867), the walls of which are decorated
Virgin in 1858 to a small peasant girl call- with numerous banners. The little Ber-
ed Bernadette Sonbirous. During the six nadette, after the cessation of the appari-
months following the first of these miracu- tions, returned to her former simple mode
lous apparitions no less than 150,000 per- of life, never speaking of what she had
sons visited the grotto in which the Virgin seen and heard except in answer to direct
appeared eighteen times, visible only to questions, and always refusing so energet-
the eyes of the child, but her presence be- ically any offers of money made to her,
ing made known to the thousands of spec- even the smallest amounts, that many be-
tators by the change in the face of Berna- lieve it to be one of the three secret rec-
dette, which at her appearance and until ommendations made to her at different
her departure seemed to be glorified by a times by the Virgin. In October, 1867,
holy light and beauty entirely unnoticea- she took the vows at the convent of the
ble at other times. The source of a small Soeurs de la Charite de Nevers, in the 23d
fountain having been made known to Ber- year of her age. An omnibus runs from
nadette, and several miraculous cures hav- the railway station to the grotto, convey-
ing been effected b}^ bathing with its wa- ing passengers for 75 centimes.
ters, the pilgrimages became so extensive There are large marble and slate quar-
and numerous that the authorities became ries in the neighborhood of Lourdes, the
alarmed, and ordered the grotto to be fenced former employing about 600 workmen, and
up and the votive offerings to be removed. bringing in about $80,000 annually, and
Any one who attempted to approach the the latter employing about 260 men, and
grotto was subjected to the penalty of a producing 849,000.
large fine but notwithstanding this the
; The traveler may proceed from Lourdes
crowd still assembled, and performed their to Cauterets by rail as far as Pierrefitte,
devotions on the opposite bank of the Gave, time, 45 minutes; fare, 2 fr. 55 c, and
whence the grotto was visible. Later the thence by omnibus in two hours to Cau-
Bishop of Tarbes declared the miracle to terets fare, 2 fr. 50 c. Private carriages,
;
To the right of Argeles stands the vil- 'des (Eufs, de Cesar et des Espagnols, de
lage of St. Savin, which contains the re- Pause -Nouveau, de Pause- Vieux, and du
mains of an ancient abbey, built on the site Kocher et de Rieumiset.
of the Palatium ^Euiilianum, whose ruins The second group, to the south of Cau-
i
served as a retreat to the hermit St. Savin, terets, comprises the sources de la Kaillere,
soil of the Count of Poitiers, and in whose du Pre, du Petit- Saint -Sauveur, and des
honor a monastery was erected here by Yeux et Mahourat.
Charlemagne. In succeeding generations The Etahlissetnents des G-lvfs stands on
it increased in size and prosperity ; the the right bank of the Gave, at the base of
cliurch, which dates from the end of the the Peguere it is constructed of marble,
;
lltii century, is a remarkable Komanesque and contains on the ground floor, in addi-
building; it contains two large paintings tion to twent3'-six bathing cabinets, four-
of the loth century, oacli divided into nine teen douches, etc., a large swimming-bath
compartments, which represent scenes in of sulphur-water, which is constantly re-
the life of St. Savin. newed, and above which are suspended va-
Farther on the railway passes on the rious articles for gymnastic exercises. This
—
right bank of the Gave the ruined Chateau bath twenty-five yards in length and ten
—
de B'ducens, now belonging to Mr. Fould, in breadth is completely inclosed in a
but formerly the residence of the counts of large, well-lighted room. On the first floor
Lavedan of this the most ancient portion are the salons of the casino, with ball and
;
is the large tower, dating from the 1-ith concert rooms and a theatre. The waters
century. are brought to this establishment from a
Pierrefdte, the last station on the line of distance of about a mile and a half, the
railway, is a small village of 569 inhabit- sources which suppl3' it being ten in num-
ants, whence several roads diverge, to Cau- ber, all called des Qiufs, either because the
ter. is, St. Sauveur, Luz. and Bareges. It is water is hot enough to cook an egg or be-
situated at the base of a loft}' mountain, cause of its disagreeable odor.
which forms by its position two small val- The EtabUssevient de Cesar et d s Ksp -
leys, the road to Cauterets leading through gnols is built of gray Pyrenean marl)le at
tlie one on the right, and to Luz through the foot of the Peyrante mountain this
:
433
Cauterets. [FRANCE.] Cauterets,
du Eocher, discovered in 1858, is the most gust, and the numbers are then so great
important. j
that visitors would do well to report them-
The Pause - Vieux and Pause - Nouveau selves on their arrival to the government
contain, the former fourteen cabinets, and medical inspector, who will inscribe their
the latter twelve. For a chaise a porteurs names in a book, and allot them an nui*.
to reach them, the price to go and return is for taking the bath during the time of their
:
The Vieux-Cesar is situated a few yards Cauterets was well known in anciem.
j
beyond the Pause-Nouveau, on the flank times, and if not visited, as is supposed, by
of the Peyrante mountain. Here, accord- Caesar, it was certainly a favorite resort of
ing to tradition, Cajsar came to bathe and the sovereigns of Navarre. Queen Mar-
drink the waters. garet, sister of P>ancis I., came here, at-
Of the southern group, the most impor- tended by her court poets and musicians,
tant is the and it was here that the greater part of her
I
Etab'issement de la Raillere, for which om- " Heptameron " was written.
nibuses, four-in-hand, leave every ten min- There are some verv pleasant walks in and
utes from the Place Saint Martin or the around Cauterets. The Promenade du Pare
Thermes des Qi^ufs be careful to take a belongs to the hotel of the same name it
; ;
ticket at the bureau. Chaise h porteurs is placed at the disposition of all strangers,
to go and return, 3 francs a horse, 2 francs
;
who pass many pleasant hours in its shady
donkey, 1 franc. This is the most fre- avenues.
quented of all the sources at Cauterets The Grange of the Eeine Hortense is the
the water is ver^^ abundant, and supplies name given to a small house in which Queen
no less than thirty -four baths and six Hortense, mother of Napoleon III., once
douches during fourteen hours of the day, passed the night. The farm-house stands
I
in addition to all that is consumed in the on the summit of a rock, which commands
two fountains, as well as what is used for a view of the town and its narrow valley,
!
gargling and for vapor-baths. This source and is reached in half an hour's walk from
was discovered in 18G0, and is found to be the Pause- Yieux. A
chaise a porteurs to
most efficacious in maladies of the respi- go and return, 6 francs. horse from 11 A
ratorjf organs. The water of the Mahou- A.M. to 3 P.M., 5 francs guide, 5 francs ; ;
rat source is recommended as aiding diges- donkey, 4 francs before 11 A.M., or after
;
the valley of Luz. The establishment con- for its fine view of the town and gorge of
tains fourteen bathing cabinets and a drink- Cauterets.
ing fountain. An excursion to be recommended to all
Le Pre is situated on the border of the who visit Cauterets is that to the
Gave, with an establishment containing Cascade de Cerisey and Pont d'Espagne,
seventeen bathing-rooms, two douches, and reached by a good bridle-road either on
a fountain. horseback (5 francs), or in a chaise k por-
Bains du Bois, the highest in this direc- teurs, with two men as far as the cascade,
tion, contains four bathing cabinets, two 6 francs, and with four to the Pont, 1&
piscines, or large baths, and four douches. francs.
Rooms are let on the first floor to invalids The road passes the southern group of
unable to support the fatigue of coming bathing establishments, past the Cascade
from Cauterets, a distance of over two d'Escanage, and winds along the Val de
miles. Jerez between the Peyrenere and Pe3^rante
Cauterets is one of the dearest of the mountains, through scenery as wild and
Pyrenean watering-places. It is most fre- grand as any of which the Pyrenees can
quented in the months of July and Au- boast. Fallen rocks are strewn on all
434
Cauterets. [FRANCE.] Luz,
sides of the path, which aBcends along the The ascent of the Vignemaie may be
I
margin of the Gave, black forests of pine made from the lake, which is either crossed
cover the leases of the mountains, above in a boat to the Gave at its extremity, or is
Avliich rise thin, bare, and precipitous peaks. skirted by a path to the left as far as the
The Gave rushes along the valley, leaping waterfall, where the ascent begins, along
from the upper to the lower slopes in sev- the banks of the torrent, and continues to
eral line falls, ofwhich the Cerisey is the follow its course up five successive stages
j
best. It is reached in one hour from Cau- or steps, from each of which the water takes
!
terets, and here travelers generally dis- a leap, until the glacier is reached which
!
reached from here this is a simple bridge the Pic Longue, 10,820 feet above the level
;
of pine-logs thrown across the toiTent, of the sea, being the fourth highest in the
which is here confined within a narrow Pyrenees.
chasm not more than ten 3'ards Avide, just From Cauterets to Lnz return by dili-
above which the Gaves de Gaube and Mar- gence to Pierrefitte, whence other dili-
cadau make their junction, and form at its gences start for Luz at the arrival of the
entrance several picturesque falls, but none trains from Tarbes. Time from Pierre-
of any mngnitude. Just above the bridge fitte to Luz, 1 h. 10 m.
|
fare, 3 fr. 30 c.
;
to the left from the Pont d'Espagne, and gloomy than that of Cauterets, and abounds
continue along the right bank of the Gave throughout in the richest foliage. The
de Gaube for some distance a path passed
; road itself is a fine specimen of modern
on the right leads over the Pont de Joseph engineering skill, having been cut in many
j
to a small hut, from the green knoll in front places out of the solid rock, while in others
of which a iine view is obtained of a mag- it is built up with masonry over the most
nificent fall of water, all that is discharged fearful abysses. The gorge finally opens
from the Lac de Gaube here tumbling from out into a small valley, richly carpeted with
a considerable height. verdure, and studded here and there with
Returning to the main road the path little villages. This valley, triangular in
strikes up the mountain-side, which it as- shape, is entered by three narrow gorges
cends by steep zigzags through forests of at each of its angles the northern defile is
:
pine until it reaches the lake. This body the one to Pierrefitte already traversed ; a
of water, surrounded on all sides by stern second, on the southwest, is that of Gavar-
and loft}' mountains, is situated 5866 feet nie, leading to St. Sauveur while a third,
;
above the level of the sea. It is not more on the southeast, is that of the Bastan, lead-
than 2|^ miles in circumference, but is said ing to Bareges. Between the last tAvo de-
to be from 300 to 400 feet deep. It is fed files, at the base of the Pic de Bergons, lies
by the glaciers of the Vignemale, one of the the village of
highest mountains in France, whose peaks Lnz. — Hotels, llotd de V Univers and
are covered with eternal snow, the waters Hotel des Pijrenks. Population, 1512.
of which enter the lake over a small fall. This village, situated on a rapid mountain
Trout abound here, and may be eaten at Gave, contains little of interest except its
the restaurant built by the town of Cau- church, which Avas founded in the 13tli
terets, which is about the only habitation century by the Templars, and surrounded
near. A small marble monument erected by them with toAvers and fortifications,
|
on a rock which projects into the lake at- Avhich give it a very Avarlike appearance
tracts the attention this commemorates notice on the southern side a small door-
:
the melancholy fate of a young English- AA-ay, through Avhich alone the Cagots, a
man and his Avife, called Pattison, who, proscribed race, Avorc alloA\od to enter the
hardly a month after marriage, were drown- church, and to hear mass in a chapel set
ed in the lake while attempting to cross in apart for them.
,
4?5
St. Sauveur. [FRANCE.] Gavarnie
Chapelle Eugenie^ founded by the late is the name given to a gap or notch in the
empress of the French. crest of a mountain, cut, according to le-
St. Sauveur is about one mile from Luz. gend, by the Ijrave Eoland with his fa-
This vUlage consists of a long, narrow mous blade, Durandal, to facilitate his pur-
street, containing principally hotels and suit of the Moors. This gap may be
lodging-houses for the accommodation of reached with a guide from the Cirque of
strangers "who come to take the baths and Gavarnie.
waters. Hotels, du, France, d s P. ince ,
From Gedre the road soon reaches the
and de Pari-. Chaos, or Peyrada. formed by the fall from
The mineral spring of St. Sauveur above of masses of gneiss, and winds in
was first discovered by a bishop of Tarbes, the midst of these immense rocks, which
Gentien d'Amboise, who built here a chapel, lie piled about in extreme confusion, some
v.ith the following inscription, '•' Hamietu being nearly as big as a house. After
aquits defuniibus salvatori<:'' from this the passing under the base of the Pimene, a
place derives its name. Although some- mountain which rises to the left (9384 feet),
what frequented during the first empire, it we reach
was not until after the Kestoration that Gavarnie, a poor village of 309 inhab-
St. Sauveur attained its great celebrity, itants, which owes its reputation to the
owing to the patronage of the Duchesse de Oule, or Cirque, of which it bears the
Berri and the Duchesse d'Augouleme. name. It was in former times occupied
Two marble columns, placed at each end by the Templars, who had here a com-
of the village, commemorate the stay of mandery. At the time of the destruction
these two princesses. I
of the order, thirteen of them, who had re-
The finest monument of St. Sauveur, I
mained here, were massacred, and their
however, is the bridge erected by Napo- skulls are now shown in the village
leon III., called the Pout Xapoleon, which church.
consists of a single arch thrown across the It requires one hour to reach the Cirque
ravine 216 feet above the Gave, and con- from Gavarnie price of a horse, 3 fr. a
;
;
varnie. The foundation stone was laid by This Cirque is a vast circle, excavated
the emperor, and the whole structure was in the mountain mass, surrounded on
completed in less than two years, at a cost ever}' side by precipices of great height,
of $60,000. A
column surmounted by a which leave no opening except one by
colossal eagle was erected by the munici- which the waters escape. It is a config-
pality at one end of the bridge, as a souve- uration quite i^eculiar to the Pyrenees,
nir of the imperial family. forming a termination to several valleys
The Therm s, or bathing establishment, in that chain that of Ga\^rnie is cer-
;
is a fine building situated in the centre of tainly the finest while that at the head
;
the village, and containing twenty bathing of the valley of Heas, called Troumouse, is
cabinets and two douches. There is an- larger still another is to be seen in the
;
other establishment, di la Hontulade, con- Val Estaube. The sides of the precipices
taining eight cabinets, two douches, and vary in height from 3000 to 4000 feet, and
a drinking-fountain. are divided into three unequal stages or
The waters of St. Sauveur are chiefly stories of perpendicular walls each of ;
efficacious in cases of nervous disorders these stories has steps looking as though
and female complaints. cut in the rock, some of which are precise
An excursion may be made from St. and well marked, while others are almost
Sauveur through the valley of the Gave invisible below, and present rather the ap-
de Gavarnie, v.-hich contains some of the pearance of a shade. The cirque is 10,900
most striking scenery in the Pyrenees. I feet in circumference, along the sides of
The road runs along the face of a rock}' which innumerable streamlets fall, fed
precipice 300 or 400 feet above the river, ;
by the snow and glaciers which crown the
and passes the village of Gedre, from the summit of the precipices one of these, re-
;
hills near which there is a fine view of the ported to be the highest cascade in Eu-
Tours de Marb re, with theu' snowy peaks, !
rope, falls from a height of 1380 feet, only
and of the Br'eche de Roland. The latter I
twice broken in its descent by rocky
436
Bareges. [FRANCE.] Bar EGES.
ledges. It takes nearly half an hour to bars, attached by chains, have been placed.
reach this fall from the entrance, as the Since 1860, when these jdatforms were
floor of the ch-que is strewn Avith immense constructed, but one avalanche has en-
masses of rock fallen from the mountains tered the valley, and that was a slight one,
above, while the snow never entirely dis- which Avent no farther than the right bank
appears, and forms bridges of ice, imder of the Bastan. The Avinters here are so
which the waters of the cascades take very rigorous that the houses are mostly
their course. At the entrance of the abandoned, a few peasants only remaining,
cirque is a small inn, where the horses provided Avith provisions, to keep guard
are put up, and where slight refreshments over the property left behind. The pro-
may be obtained. prietors return in the month of May to dig
The ascent of the Brecke de Rvland may out their houses from the snoAA% sometimes
also bemade from Gavarnie. A guide is fifteen feet deep, and to make the necessary
absolutely indispensable he ma}'- be ob-
: repairs for the summer months.
tained for 10 francs a day, if several ex- The mineral waters of Bareges are A'ery
cursions are to be made ; but for a single strong, and tlie cures effected by them
excursion the price is augmented. To go have been something wonderful. They
and return, six hours are required. Only j
are efficacious in scrofulous affections,
those who are very sure-footed should [
rheumatism, and in curing ulcers and gun-
make the attempt, although the excursion shot and otlier Avounds ; ill-cured or old
is less dangerous than is sometimes sup- Avounds they cause to reopen and dis-
posed. charge, and then close them in a healthy
From Luz to Bareges the road is a con- manner. Owing to this Avonderful quality,
tinual ascent thi'ough the valle}' of Bastan, the French government haA'e constructed
past the villages of Esterre, Viella, and Bel- a military hospital, consisting of two large
poney, until barracks, capable of receiving 400 soldiers
Barege^^ is reached. Hotels, de V Eu- and 200 officers.
rope and du France. Tliis town is situ- The Bathing Esfablishmenf, lateh'^ recon-
ated -iOSo feet above the sea-level, and structed, contains 21 bathing cabinets, 4
contains little to attract any but those in douches, and on the square to the Avest of
search of health it consists of a long, nai-
; the building possesses a large covered
row street, situated on the left of the Gave piscine. The Avaters are deriA'ed from
de Bastan, and contains about a hundred seven springs, of Avhich the most powerful
houses solidly constructed, which are is that of Le T'lnibour ; their principal in-
meant to remain throughout the year, and gredients are sulphuret of sodium, carbon-
a large number of wooden houses and huts, ate, muriate, and sulphate of soda, azotic
removed at the approach of winter. This and sulphureted hydrogen gases, as well
precaution was some years ago absolutely as animal matter. Tlie demand for the
necessary for all those who desired to pre- waters is so great that they are in use day
serve their belongings, as the avalanches and night, and, as the village can not
formed during the winter months on the lodge more than 1200 strangers, man}' per-
sides of the Labas-Blancs swept down sons are obliged to Avait some time at Luz
regularly through four ravines into the before being able to ol»tain a room.
valley of Bastan, and, crossing the torrent, Although the existence of these springs
covered the village in their fearful course, was knoAvn in the ^liddlc Ages, as is
and were only stopped by the mountain- proved by traces of i>iscines to be seen
sides of the Pic d'Ayre. The most dan- near the spot called Vieux Bareges, the
gerous of these four ravines was that of Avaters Avere fiist brought into notice by
Midaou, or Capet, the avalanches descend- ^Madame de IMaintenon in 1670, who
ing from a height of 3800 feet, at an angle brought here, by the advice of the royal
of .'55 degrees. phA'^sician, her young pupil, the Due de
Although these avalanches have not Maine, natural son of Louis XIV. The
been entirely stopped, they have been effect of the Avaters was so great that,
checked in their destructive course by after a protracted stay, the little crip-
means of platforms several yards Avide ple was enabled on liis return to Avalk to
cut in the rock, upon which immense iron meet the king.
437
Bareges. [FRANCE.] Pad.
The Hospice de Sainte Eugenie is a large peaks, to the east the stem and lofty Ma-
building in the form of a convent, situated ladetta ;to the north the eye ranges over
on the side of the Pic d'Ayre, which re- the plains watered by the Adour and Ga-
ceives from the 15th of June to the 1st of ronne, dotted with numerous towns and
September nuns or priests, Avho pay a villages. The descent of the mountain
small sum for board from the loth of
;
ma}'^ be made by another road through the
May to the 15th of June, and from Sep- Hourquette de Cinq Ours and the ravine
teniber 1st to October loth, the poor are of the Arize, until it reaches in the valley
admitted and lodged for a small amount, of Tramesaignes the road which runs to
payable by their department from sums Bagneres-de-Bigorre.
set apart for that purpose. Diligences run during the summer sea-
There is another bathing establishment son from Bareges to Lourdes, corresponding
near Bareges, that of Barzun, which con- with the railways to Pau, Toulouse, and
tains eight bathing cabinets, two douches, Bagneres.
and a drinking-fountain. The fine silk tissue bearing the name of
The tariff for the waters and baths of this town (crepe de Bareges) is not made
Bai'eges is as follows : here, but at Luz and Bagneres.
A
single drink, 5 centimes. Returning once more to our main route
An abonnement for drinking, 5 francs. from Lourdes to Pau (time, 1 hour fare,
;
the Tourmalet (crossed to reach Bagneres- former splendor are still standing.
de- Bigorre from Bareges, 25 miles), and Ptm beautifully situated on the mount-
is
then crosses the Bastan, and continues ain stream of the Gave, and has lately be-
by gradual ascents until it reaches the come a most fashionable place of resort for
Lac d'Oncet, a beautiful tarn closed in by Americans and English. In addition to
precipices, which lies at the foot of the the beauty of its position, hardly to be sur-
peak about 2000 feet below the summit. passed by that of any town in France, its
Just above this is a small inn, the highest favor as a residence is also greatly owing
habitation in Europe, open from July 1st to the salubrity of its climate. The view
to October 1st, where accommodation may obtained from the ridge on which the town
be had for the night. Provisions may stands extends over the chain of the West
also be obtained, the prices of which, being Pyrenees for a distance of many miles, and
regulated by a tariff, are very moderate. somewhat resembles that from the platform
This building, which was once destroj'ed of Berne among the numerous peaks over
;
by an avalanche, was reconstructed in which the eye ranges, the two most pre-
1854 by Dr. Costallat. By its side stands eminent in height and shape are the Pic du
a small building constructed as an observ- Midi de Bigorre to the east, and the Pic
atory in 1873. From the summit of the du Midi d'Ossau to the west; these aro
peak, 9439 feet above the level of the sea, chiefly visible through gaps in a chain of
the view is most magnificent, extending wooded hills, which form a foreground as
over the great Pyrenean chain of mount- seen from Pau.
ains, comprising to the south the snow-cov- Hotels Gassion and de France.
:
There are two English churches, and one works on the exterior were executed dur-
Presbyterian two good English phj'.si-
; ing the reign of Napoleon III. In the
cians, viz., J. Bagnall, M.D., and Sir Alex- salle a manger, on the ground floor, the
ander Taylor. walls are decorated with beautiful tapestry,
Pau now contains 27,300 inhabitants, made in Flanders by order of Francis I.
and was formerly the capital of Beam and here also is a marble statue of Henri IV".
Navarre, celebrated for being the birth- In the Chambre h Coucher du Roi is a bed
place of Henri Quatre, the "good king," carved with medallion heads of the kings
who won the decisive battle of Ivry : of France, and said to have been that oc-
"Hurrah! hurrah! another field hath turned cupied by Henri IV. The bed of Jeanne
tlie cliance of war; d'Albret, in the room of that queen, was at
Hurrah ! hurrah ! for Ivry and Henri of Na- one time in the possession of Marshal Soult,
varre."
who presented it to the castle. The cradle
The principal square contains a bronze ef- of King Henry has been already men-
figy of the king. The principal object of tioned.
town is the ancient castle in
interest in the Ijernadotte, late king of Sweden, was
which Henri was born. It is said that his born in Pau. He was the son of a sad-
grandfather, Henry d'Albret, requested his dler, and left here as a drummer-boy. Ho
daughter, at the time of her confinement, sent, while King of Sweden, some fine spec-
to sing, that the offspring might neither be imens of Swedish porphyry, Avhich new
a crying nor a sulky child, and that she had decorate the chambers of the castle. Ber-
the courage to accomplish his desires. In nadotte abandoned the Catholic religion to
the castle are shown his cradle and bed. procure the throne of Sweden, and Henri
His cradle, which was a large tortoise-shell, abandoned the Protestant to procure the
was removed during the Kevolution, and throne of France.
another substituted, which the Revolution- The rates at the diff^erent hotels in Pau
ists broke to pieces, thinking it a symbol are almost as high as those of Paris but ;
The Castle is open to the public every ing to its clean and airy appearance, and
day, except Monday, from 10 to 12 and abounding as it does in all the conveniences
from 2 to 4. This building was founded and luxuries of life. Many English and
by Gaston-Phoebus, Comte de Foix, in 1363, American families reside here during the
and stands on a sort of promontory, with season, and one of our countrymen keeps a
water flowing around it on three sides, and pack of hounds. The town contains a
on the fourth a deep moat, which has since picture-gallery, public library, school of
been transformed into a fine avenue of design, numerous manufactories, and car-
trees. It is connected with the town and ries on a considerable trade in hams and
park by three bridges, of which the princi- wines. Pau is the birthplace of Orthes,
pal, constructed b}' order of Louis XV., who, Avhen governor of Bayonne, refused
crosses the moat, and forms the grand en- to execute the order of Charles IX. for the
trance. The castle is flanked by six square massacre of St. Bartholomew.
towers, the oldest being that of Gaston- The Casino belonging to the Hotel Gas-
Phoebus, to the left of the entrance, which sion contains ball, concert, and reading
is built entirely of tiles, and furnished with rooms subscription, 30 fr. a month for one
;
loop-holes; it is 110 feet in height, Avith person. There is also a subscription pack
Avails nearly 9 feet deep. The Tour de of hounds kept up in Pau, with hunting
Montauzet, or IMonte-Oiseau, rises to a three times a week during the season.
height of 80 feet, and derives its name from There are two theatres, three clubs, car-
the former mode of entrance employed, riages and horses to be obtained at reason-
—
there being at one time no doorwa}' but able fores in fact, every thing to make the
one placed at 40 feet from the ground, town attractive during a lengthy stav.
reached by means of ladders, which were —
Railways. From Pau to Paris, via Bor-
di'awn up as soon as used. Within its deaux. Time, 16 h. 55 m. fare, 100 fr. ;
From Pau to Bordeaux. Time, 5 hours 1st. On the road to Bordeaux as far as
fare, 28 fr. 65 c. the Hippodrome. 3^ miles.
From Pau to Bayonne. Time, 2 h. 2 m. 2d. The road to Bayonne as far as the
fare, 13 fr. 5 c. village of Lescar, where an old church is to
From Pau to Toulouse. be seen, returning by the road to L'Arroin
Time, 5 h. 44 ra.
fare, 26 60 c.
fr. and crossing the iron bridge. 2i hours
The diligences of the Cie. de TUnion and price from 10 to 12 fr.
of the Grand Hotel Gassion, corresponding 3d. The route to Tarbes, returning by
with the French and Spanish railways, the route to Trespoly and the boulevards.
make the journey from Huesca to Pau, and Time, 1^ hours price, 5 fr. ;
the Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes. fare, 8 fr. 50 c. 7 fr. 50 c. and 6 fr. 60 *>. ; ;
—
Bureaux. Madril^ L. Raminez, Alcala Private carriages, 25 or 30 fr.
12 ; Sarogossd, Fernando Rubira, Plaza Crossing the Gave de Pau and the vil-
de la Constitucion Huesca, Buisseaux, lage of .Jurancon on the right, we reach
;
Urdos-Oloron, Hotel Lonstalot Paw, Grand Beam, and the birthplace of its historian,
;
minion. The church, in the Gothic style, in their use. it being the custom to l)egin
is constructed out of the remains of a Bo- by taking but a tablespoonful and a half;
man monument, and contains numerous the cold spring only is used for drinking
interesting sculptures. Above Bielle are purposes.
numerous cromlec/is, or circles of stones, '
To the right of the bathing establish- not exceed 95° Fahr. They are called Le
ment is a new church, with some good cop- Clot, Le Rey, I'Esquirette, S. Baudot, S.
ies from the old masters. The Protestant Larresecq, andS. Minvielle; the last named
church stands at the foot of the Butte du being cold.
Tresor. The Etablissement des Bains is a fine
Another bathing establishment, called building, containing thirty baths, drinking-
that of Ortech^ stands on the banks of the fountains, and a piscine also billiard and
;
Valentin, and contains eight baths and a reading rooms, and a cafe. It stands on
drinking-fountain the right bank of the Gave, and, having
There are several pleasant promenades in been completely restored in 1870, is as
and around Eaux-Bonnes the Promenade
: well-disposed as any in the Pj^renees. In
Ilorizoiitale, laid out on a level and shaded the large hall, called the Salle des Pas Per-
with ti-ees the Promenade de V Imperatrice,
;
dus, visitors promenade while drinking the
leading to the -waterfalls ; the Promenade, waters of the three sources used in the es-
Eynai'J, made by M. E3'nard, of Geneva, etc. —
tablishment the Clot, Rey, and Esqui-
The excursions are varied and delight- rette.
ful, either to be made on foot, on horse- There are many pleasant excursions in
back, or in carriages. Horses to be hired the neighborhood of the Eaux-Chaudes
from 5 fr. fr. a day
to 6 carriages, 10| fr.
; one of these is to Goiist, a village existing
half a 20 fr. a whole day.
da}', for centuries, and composed of about twelve
The waterfalls of Eaux-Bonnes, formed houses with 70 inhabitants, more or less
by the Gave du Valentin, and bearing the cousins, who form a species of small repub-
names of Cascade de Discoo, Cascade des '
level of the sea, is situated on the Gave custom-house. Turning to the right from
d'Ossau, in the midst of a gorge so narrow here the plateau of Bious Artigues i^
that there is hardly space for houses on the reached in 1\ hours, whence a fine view is
two sides of the street of which the village obtained of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau ai:d
consists. The season lasts here from July the surrounding country.
1st to September 1st, during which time the Other excursions may be made to the
temperature is most moderate, rareh' ex- Lacs d'Arlouste and d'Aule, or to the Val
ceeding 70° Fahr. de Bitet and Col d'Izeye.
The Eaux-Chaudes were known during Continuing on our main route from Pau
the time of the Romans, but first became to Baj'onne, the only town of importance
celebrated under the kings of Navarre. passed is
Henry IV. made some stay here, accom- Ortkez, contjining 6526 inhabitants. Ho-
panied by Mademoiselle de Fosseuse and tel la Belle Hutesse. Here the only objects
Mademoiselle de Rebours. of interest are a modern brid>;e, consisting
The mineral springs are sulphureous, of a single arch ;another of the Middle
seven in number, of which the hottest does Ages, of Gothic architecture, with four
442
Orthez. [FRANCE.] BOCRGICS.
pointed arches, surmounted by a tower re- the traveler, but the town contains large
stored in 1873; and the pottery and hardware works; while just
Tour de Mancade, the only remaining outside are numerous furnaces, in which
portion of the castle of Orthez. It consists the iron of Berry is manufactured, and then
of three stories, and stands upon a plateau brought here to be exported.
surrounded by deep ravines, and only ac- From Vierzon a branch line of railway
cessible on the eastern side. The ancient runs to Bourges, Nevers, Moulins, and
castle was built by Gaston VII. in the 13th Vichy, while another strikes off to the
centur}-^, and was long a residence of the west to Tours, Angers, and Nantes.
princes of Beam. It was visited in 1388 Bourges is a city of 31,327 inhabitants.
by Froissart, during the I'eign of Gaston- Principal hotel, I/otel de France. On the
Phoebus, and the historian gives glowing most prominent point of the city is sit-
accounts of the fetes held here. It was uated the Cathedral of .'it. Ftienne, larger
also, however, the scene of many crimes, than that of Notre Dame at Paris, and con-
especially during the reign of the last- sidered one of the finest structures in Eu-
named prince, who here stabbed his broth- rope. The sculpture contained therein is
er or cousin, the governor of Lourdes (see particularly rich and original, the repre-
Lourdes), and threw him into a dungeon to sentation of the Last Judgment being admi-
die ;his son also was imprisoned, and al- rably executed Christ seated in the cen-
:
lowed to die of hunger, having been un- tre amid archangels, with the Virgin and
justly accused of wishing to poison his St. John kneeling on either side; to the
father. Here also Blanche de Navarre right the Gate of Paradise, to which the
died, poisoned by her sister and brother-in- good are being led by St. Peter and on
;
ian style, we find the Archeveche, where was appropriated during his studious ca-
Don Carlos of Spain was imprisoned. It reer at the Jesuits' College. Not far from
is a fine structure, and adjoins the cathe- the Hotel de Ville was the residence of
dral. The gardens attached contain an Cujas, professor of the university, called
abundance of limes. Xot far distant we the Caserne de Gendarmerie. The exterior
find the Grand Seminaire, as formerly call- decorations are very elegant. It was erect-
ed now, however, it is known as the Ca-
;
ed in a substantial manner of brick in the
serne d'A rtvlerie. latter part of the 16th centur}-. The con-
Bourges in ancient timeswas considered vent of the Soeurs Bleues, in the Rue des
was taken and Vieilles Prisons, exhibits some very elab-
a strong, fine city, until it
nearly all its inhabitants massacred by orate specimens of architecture. Visit the
CsEsar. It was well protected by numer- Little Oratory, with its singular roof com-
ous towers, few of which, however, are now posed of thin stone slabs, ingeniously di-
remaining. Two of these deserve par- vided,and separating many peculiar de-
ticular mention, being specimens of Ro- vices and particular letters, which are fine-
—
man masonry consequently, interesting ly carved, but rather ambiguous in their
mementoes. This city, believed by some meaning.
to be the ancient Avaricum, is situated in Returning to Vierzon, and continuing
the centre of France. It was the birth- on our main route, we reach
place of Louis XL, also of the celebrated Chdteanroux. —
Huiel Ste. Catherine and
French pulpit orator Bourdaloue. The Mu- Hotel de France. This town contains 18,700
seum contains some portraits worthy of no- inhabitants. It has an active trade in
tice, among which are tliose of Marie An- woolen 3'^arn, in which one fifth of the en-
toinette and Louis XVI. The Hotel de 'ille \ tire population is engaged. Its principal
is the building of most importance and edifice is the Castle, for 22 years the prison
interest after the cathedral. It was the of the Princess of Conde, niece of Cardinal
former residence of Jacques Coeur. He Richelieu. It was the last dying request
was minister of finance to Charles VII., of the great Conde, her husband, to Louis
an extensive capitalist, and celebrated XIV., that she should never be set free.
jeweler and merchant after being a good
; Chateauroux was the birthplace of General
and faithful servant to his master, he was Bertrand, who accompanied Napoleon to
sentenced by him to perpetual banishment. St. Helena, and whose statue was erected
No cause has ever been assigned for this in the town in 1854. The library' of the
severe condemnation. The style of the Hotel de Ville contains some relics of Na-
building is Gothic, rich and magnificent, poleon I.
but not unnecessarily embellished. The An excursion may be made from here
walls and windows are all ornamented in to Bourg Dieu, an an-
to visit the ruins of
a diff"erent manner, and yet all blend har- and church, whose Roman-
cient monaster}'
nioniousl}' together. The walls alone were esque tower and spire date from the 12th
immensely expensive. The entrance is century.
very elegant, on each side of which are Argenton, situated on the Creuse, has
figures supposed to represent the servants 5283 inhabitants. Woolen and paper man-
of Jacques Coeur, faithful to the last in ufactories line the river-side. A
few frag-
their wish to preserve him from the ap- ments alone remain of a once powerful
proaching danger b}^ being on the con- castle, flanked by ten large towers, which
stant look-out for the officers of justice. once stood here, but which was dismantled
His motto, carved in characters of stone and destroyed by Louis XIII. and Louis
purel}' Gothic, is most admirably executed. XIV. During the construction of the
The chapel is of considerable importance, railway some remains of Roman baths
especially the upper portion, owing to the were discovered.
elaborate and artistic representations of Limoges contains a population of more
Italian fresco-painting upon the roof; the than 55,000 persons. Principal hotel, //.
subject being the figures of the angelic Borde d'Or. It is situated on the east bank
host, Avith the Gloria in Excelsis, etc., in- of the Vienne, 110 miles from Bordeaux.
scribed upon their skulls. In this palace It contains few objects of interest to the
resided the young Conde, to whose use it traveler. It was once strongly fortified,
444
Perigueux. [FRANCE.] Cahors,
but was besieged and taken by the Black to have served as a tomb while the town
Prince in 1370. The upper or modern was under the dominion of the Romans,
town contains an unlinished cathedral, a who called it Vesuna. Under this name
church with an elegant steeple, a bishop's it is mentioned by Cajsar as tlie capital of
palace, theatre, exchange, mint, and cav- the Petrocorii, Other Roman remains,
alry barracks, hospitals, and public baths. such as an amphithtatre, an arch, etc., are
Among its antiquities are the remains of to be seen in the neighborhood, while the
an amphitheatre and fountain. It is cele- ruined Chateau de la lUtrriere was erected
brated for its breed of horses, which are in the IGth century on Roman foundations
much sought French cavalry,
after for the and with Roman materials.
and contains manufactures of glass, porce- The Cathedral of St. Feont is Byzantine
lain, broadcloths, hats, paper, and cards, in its character, and bears some resem-
with tanneries, dye-houses, and brandy blance to St. Mark's, at Venice. It was
distilleries. It was the birthplace of Verg- originally an al)l)ey church, begun in 984,
niaud, one of the leaders of the Girondists, and finished in 1047, at which time it was
who was beheaded by Robespierre also of ; consecrated. The first use in France of
Marshal Jourdan, and Nouaillier, master the pointed arch is said to have been made
of the art of enameling. This art seems here. The church of St. Etienne, having
to have flourished at Limoges as early as been partly destroyed by the Huguenots in
the 12th century, and some remarkable 1577, was rebuilt in 1615; but the western
specimens may be seen at the museum in bay, which remained uninjured, is about the
the Ancien Palais de Justice. same age as the cathedral.
Arailua}' was opened December 20, 1875, Astatue of ^larshal Bugeaud, by Du-
from Limoges to Brivc, through districts mon, occupies the centre of the Place du
which have been hitherto without railway Triangle, while those of IMichel de Mon-
communication, and by means of which the taigne, the celebrated essa^-ist, and Fene-
distance from Paris to Toulouse and other lon, are to be seen in other parts of the
large towns in that portion of France has town, of which they were both natives.
been considerably shortened. Twenty-four miles from Perigueux the
From Limoges to Perigueux the railway train stops at Les Eyzics, a small village,
passes through a hilly country, leaving a situated near the confluence of the Benne
little to the west of the line, seven miles with the Vezere. The right bank of the
from Biissiere Ga'aiid, the town of Chains river is here lined with cliff's whose sides
(2237 inhabitants), before whose walls Rich- are pierced Avith many caverns, in which
ard Coeur de Lion received his death wound. bones of animals no longer inhabiting the
This was caused by an arrow sped from countr}-, and implements oi an early race
the bow of Bertrand de Gourdon, a youth of men, such as horns of reindeer rudely
who, when brought before the king after I
carved, have been discovered. The Cave
the capture of the place, avowed that he of Miremont, at somu little distance from
had taken his aim to avenge the loss of I
the village, should i^o*: be entered without
and brothers, slain by Richard.
his fiither a guide it stretches nearly one mile in a
;
ure, formerly the bishop's palace, the town surrounded by battlements, resembling a
contains the remains of a Roman amphi- fortress more than a church. This town
theatre and conduit. was the scene of the barbarous massacre
The castle of Jacques d'Euze, a native of the Albigenses in 1209. An army of
of Cahors, afterward Pope Jean XXII., Crusaders, under instructionsfrom the pope,
stands near the entrance to the town. Innocent III., entered the city for the pur-
Gamljetta, a member of the revolutionary pose of destroying the heretics they were
:
government of September 4, and the great led on by the Bishop of Beziers. In the
subsequent leader of the Radicals in pTance, confusion of the assault, when it was found
was also born here. impossible to distinguish the heretics from
Agen. See Route No. 118. the orthodox, the bishop gave orders to
The distance from Agen to Tarbes is slay them all, for the Lord could pick out
traversed in 5 h. 37 m. fare, 18 fr. 25 c.
; the chosen. The number massacred was
Lectoure, with a population of GOOO, is immense by some historians it is put down
;
situated on the summit of a hill, and, with at 60,000, by some at 40,000. The bishop,
the exception of a few Roman relics, con- in his statement to Pope Innocent, ac-
tains little of interest. Notice on the Pro- knowledges that 20,000 were thus butcher-
menade du Bastion a statue of the Marcchal ed. Beziers possesses an aqueduct of Ro-
Lannes, born here in 1769. man origin, also an amphitheatre, a public
Avch, situated on the sides and summit library, tribunal of commerce, agricultural
of a hill overlooking the Gers, is the chief society, and manufactures of silk, hosiers^,
town of its department. Population, 13.090. and dimity parchment, gloves, verdigris,
;
Ilutel de France. The Cathedral, standing and confectioner^'. It is the centre of con-
in a position to be seen from all parts of siderable trade, and its brandy distilleries
the town, was begun during the reign of are very extensive. Riquet, the engineer
Charles VIII., and finished under Louis of the Canal du Midi, was born here there
:
XIV. The carved woodwork of the stalls, is a statue of him in bronze on the principal
ny, in the upper town, reached from the seaport town, situated on the Herault, here
lower by long flights of steps, commands a crossed by a suspension bridge, and is call-
magnificent view of the Pyrenean chain. ed the Ville Xoire, from the color of the
Mirande, containing 4000 inhabitants, is stone of which the town is mostly built.
the only remaining town of any size be- Population, 9856. The Cathedral, with a
tween here and Tarbes, with nothing of handsome cloister attached, dates from the
interest but the ruins of an ancient castle. 11th and 12th centuries. Agde is built on
Tarbes. See Route No. 119. a lava current, which flowed from the Pic
d; St. Loup, a volcano with five cones, now
extinct, which rises between the town and
ROUTE No. 121. sea, and whose sides are now overgrown
Narbonne to Ximes, via Beziers, Cette, with vines and dotted here and there with
and Montpellier, by rail. Time, 4 h. 18 m. villas.
fare, 17 fr. 35 c. Cette is a seaport and fortified town
Narbonne to Cette. Time, 1 h. 25 m. ; fare, of the first class; it contains 24,189 in-
8 fr. 65 c. habitants. Principal hotel, des Bains. The
Cette to Nimes. Time, 1 h. 42 m. ; fare, town is entered by an elevated causeway,
9 fr. 60 c. builtupon arches its piers and docks are
:
piers, with a breakwater in front, defend- renzo de' Medici, and the head of a young
ed by two forts, one on either pier. A man, both by Raphael, with many other
broad and deep canal, bordered by quays fine paintings, Ijoth by ancient and modern
and warehouses, connects the port with the masters. A branch line of railway runs to
Lagoon of Thau, and, accordingly, witli the Palavas, on the sea-shore, 7 miles.
Canal du Midi, and canals leading to the On the road from Montpellier to Ximes
Khone, by which means Cette has an ex- we pass through
tensive traffic with the interior. Imports Lunel, whence a branch line runs to St.
comprise Benicarlo wines from Spain, for Gilles and Aries, 27 miles. Lunel is a town
mixing with French wines for the English of some 7000 inhabitants, chiefly noted for
and American markets. It has a large es- its sweet wine and brandy grown in the
tablishment where are manufactured sul- neighborhood, and which form its chief ar-
I)hate of soda, magnesia, and potat>h, from ticles of commerce.
sea-water exports consist of 40,000 tuns
;
has ship-building yards, and an active oys- tliis last is lined with beautiful buildings
ter and anchovy trade. Steamers run dai- and planted with lofty trees. Its principal
ly to Marseilles in about ten hours. object of curiosity, however, is its Romcm
Montj)eUier is finely situated on the slope amphitheatre, which is fully as perfect as
of a hill commanding extensive views. It the Coliseum at Home. It was considered
contains a population of 56,000 inhabitants. capable of comfortably seating 20,000 per-
Principal hotel, I/utel Xevet, a fine house, sons its greatest diameter is 437 feet, its
;
well managed. This city was taken from lesser 332. It is divided into two stories,
the Calvhiists in 1G22 by Louis XIII. ; it each with GO arcades, 72 feet in height.
formerly attracted many strangers, espe- A corridor running within the arches sur-
cialh' English, by its economical and lit- rounds the building on the lower story,
erary advantages, and was considered a while one of smaller size encircles the up-
very desirable situation for invalids. Its per story this last is roofed with stone
;
chief ornaments are the gate and splendid slabs front IS to 20 feet in length, many of
promenade of Peyrou, which is reached by them cracked by earthquakes or by fire.
a flight of steps and surrounded by balus- The zones of scats, divided into four tiers,
trades at its extremity is situated a beau- destined for spectators of different ranks,
;
tiful fountain, which distributes its waters were each reached by ten wedge-shaped
throughout the toAvn. In the centre of the passages (ciinei) running from the corrido".
Pej^rou is an equestrian statue of Lours The date of the foundation of this building
XIV., the whole being shaded by splendid is unknown, as well as the name of its
trees; it is considered one of the finest founder; by some it has been attributed
promenades in the north of France. Mont- to the reigns of Titus and Hadrian, while
pellier contains a university, a tribunal of others ascribe it to Antoninus Pius. It was
commerce, a school of engineers, a semi- used as a citadel by the Visigoths, also by
nary with schools of medicine and phar- the Saracens, who were expelled by Charles
macy, a national college, normal school, Martel. It is now used by the inhabitants
museums of painting and sculpture. There as the scene of their bull-fights. The next
i
are also two libraries of over 40,000 vol- place of importance is the Maison-carree,
j
umes, a botanical garden, and manufac- a beautiful Corinthian temple, which has
tories of blankets, cottons, muslins, pajier- been restored, and is now used as a mu-
hangings, corks, and surgical instruments. seum, containing some exquisite statuary
'
The Miiste Fabre was founded by Fabre, and some very good pictures two of the
: ;
from whom it takes its name he was a best are, "Xero trying the etfect of a poison
;
great friend of Altieri, the Florentine poet onaslavewhich is intended for his brother,"
:
and author, and of his wife, the Countess and "Cromwell violently opening the cof-
of Albany here there is a portrait of Lo- fin of Charles 1."
;
'
In the Public Garden
447
NiMES. [FRANCE.] Nemours.
are situated the ruins of a magnificent to Nimes. It is built in the Tuscan order,
" X^nnphaeum," or bath, called the Temple and is composed of three separate bridges
of Diana. Back of the source of the or rows of arches, one above the other, the
Fountain of the Xymphs, also to be seen in Eiver Garden flowing under the lowest,
the public garden, rises a hill, whose sum- Avhich is 530 feet long and 65 feet high;
mit is crowned by a curious ancient monu- the next is 846 feet long and 24 feet high
ment or family mausoleum of conical shape, the upper tier is 870 feet long and 25 feet
known by the name of La Tourmagne. high; the whole structure being 188 feet
Nimes is a very ancient town, having been high, 19 J feet wide at the base, and 4^ feet
subjugated by the Romans 125 years be- at the top. The lowest bridge has 6 arches,
fore Christ; was successively ravaged the next 11, and the uppermost 36. The
it
by tlie Frank?, Vandals, and Normans, in watei'course at the top, through which 3'ou
the 14th century, and was ruined by civil can now walk, is 4 feet wide b}' 4^^ deep.
and religious wars. It rose from its ashes The stones of which it is constructed are of
by the aid of Francis I. But in the 16th immense size, and devoid of all ornament.
century it again suffered on account of its The wildness and picturesqueness of the
inhabitants having embraced Protestant- valley over which this stupendous structure
ism. In 1815, on the restoration of the stands makes it one of the most desirable
Bourbons, it was the scene of a disgrace- curiosities to visit in the south of France.
ful persecution of the Protestants. Nimes This is con^'essedly one of the proudest
contains a modernized cathedral, a bish- monuments of Roman greatness. It is of
op's palace, a theatre, national college, sem- the Tuscan order, little ornamented, but of
inary, and normal school, also a library a very picturesque appearance. Having
containing over 35,000 volumes. It con- ver}^ fortunately escaped destruction during
tains manufactories of silk, cotton, and the Middle Ages, it sustained only one se-
woolen goods, and does a large trade in rious injury, in 1600, when a portion of the
grain and medicinal plants. There is a second tier of arches was broken away by
very excellent cabinet of antiquities in the the Duke de Rohan in making a passage
possession of M. Pelet, in which are imita- for his artillery. This has since been re-
tions of all the ancient houses of Nimes, paired at the expense of the states of
made of cork. The Place de Boucairie is Languedoc, and it is now difficult to see in
memorable for being the spot where the what part the injury took place.
leaders of the Camisards were hung, roast-
ed alive, and broken on the wheel.
There are no less than 12,000 French
ROUTE No. 122.
Protestants at Nimes, who have two Paris Vichy and Nimes., via Fontaine-
to
churches or temples. The Grand Temple hleau. Monlargis, Gien, Nevers, Movlins
stands near the Poste d'Auguste. {Vichy and Ciisset), Eium {Chdtd-Guyon\
Nimes to Tarascon, in 41 min. ; fare, 3 fr. Clermont {Baths of Bovrboule and Poyat);
30c.;— io^vrgrnow, in Ih. 11m.; fare, 6 fr. 15c. or Toulouse, via 3{urat, Aurillac, Figeac,
Nvnes to Montpellier. Time, 55 min. and Gaillac, by rail. Time to Nimes, 18
fare, 6 fr. 15 c.
h. 47 m. ; fare, 89 fr. 35 c. Time to Tou-
Nimes to Marseilles. Time, 3 h. 33 m. louse, 22 h. 12 m. ; fare, 90 fr. 65 c. Time
fare, 15 fr. 50 c.
to Vichy, 8 h. 19 m. (night, 7 h. 29 m.);
Nimes to Paris. Time, 17 h. 33 m. ; fare^ fare, 44 fr. 95 c.
89 fr. 35 c. (Via Tarascon.) Fontainebleau is described in the excur-
be made sions in the vicinity of Paris (see Index).
A delightful excursion may
from Nimes to the Nemours, a town of about 4000 inhabit-
Pont du Card, situated about 11 miles ants, possesses an old castle of the 12th
from that city, on the diligence -road to centur}', formerly the residence of the Sa-
Avignon. This interesting and stupen- voy line of the Dukes of Nemours. Five
dous structure dates back to some twen- miles east of
ty years before Christ. It is supposed Ferrieres, the next station, stands the
former nursery of tiie royal children of der of Cardinal Richelieu for conspiracy.
France. It was occupied at one time by The town owes its name to the great num-
the rebel Prince Conde (1652), wlio ap- ber of water-mills formerly on the Allier.
peared before the town with a small force It contains a modern Hotel de Ville, court-
and summoned it to surrender. On the house, national college, two large hospitals,
hesitation of its magistrates, Conde drew an old castle, theatre, public library, pict-
out his watch and gave them an hour to ure-gallery, and large cavalry barracks.
decide, threatening to slay the inhabitants In the suburbs along the river are well-
in case of refusal. This having produced planted walks. There are societies of rural
the intended effect, it was afterwards said economy, natural history, and fine arts
that the prince avalt jnis Montargis avec
'•'•
also manufactories of cutlery, silk, woolen,
sa montre.'" and cotton, and a large trade is carried on
The scenery from here increases in in corn, wine, raw silk, timber, and live-
beauty as we approach the Loire, on the stock. Marshal Villars, the opponent of
right bank of which stands Marlborough, and the Duke of Berwick,
Gien., a town of 6717 inhabitants, and a natural son of James II. by Marlborough's
junction station, whence a line strilces off" sister, were both born here. Lord Claren-
to Orleans. The town contains little of don, grand chancellor of England, who
interest but the remains of an old castle, served under Charles I. and Charles II.,
now used as the Sous-Prefecture, which was passed several years of his exile here :
also on the right bank of the Loire, from convicted of high-treason and banished from
•which Sully's celebrated canal takes its England, and while here wrote his history
name. This canal, completed in 1642, con- of " The Great Rebellion." Sterne, the au-
nects the River Loing at Montargis with thor of " Tristram Shandy " and '• The Sen-
the Seine at St. Mammes. timental Journey," made Moulins the scene
Nevers, a town containing 20,700 inhab- of the melancholy story of Maria. Some 15
itants, is beautiful!}' situated on the right miles from here lie the mineral springs of
bank of the Loire. Principal hotel, //. de Bouslon V Archambault . The town has a
France. Its principal buildings are the population of 4000 inhabitants.
cathedral of St. Cyr, situated on the top St. Germain des Fossis is the station at
of the hill, and the church of St. Etienne, which travelers change cars for Vichy, ar-
which dates from the middle of the elev- riving at that town in 20 minutes
; fare,
enth century. The building now occupied first class from Paris, 40 fr. 90 c.=$8.
as the Hotel dc Ville was formerly the pal-
ace of the Dukes of Nevers, and the park
formerly attached to the palace is now used
as a pul)lic garden. There are iron and
steel manufactories in the vicinity of the Vichy. —
Grand Hotel des Ambassadeurs.
town in its neighborhood arc the forges of The Anibassadturs is first-class, opposite
;
Fourchambault, the copper-works of Sin- Casino and music-stand. Terms, per dav
ploy, and the foundry of La Chaussade 1st fl., 16-20 frs. 2d fl , 14-17 frs. 3d ff.,
; ;
for cables and anchors for the national 12-13 frs., vin ordinaire included. It is
marine also a roj-al cannon-foundry for customary for guests to breakfast and dine
;
the navy. Near it are the mineral waters at the table d'hote.
of Pougues. Vichy is a town of 6000 inhabitants,
.Uoulins—U. de Paris — situated on the prettily situated in the valley of the Allier.
town containing about 20,000 Two hundred years ago it was resorted to
Allier, is a
inhabitants it has two large squares adorn-
; by the people of the vicinity, as well as by
ed with handsome fountains. The cathe- many who could aflford to come from a
449
Vichy. [FRANCE.] Chatel-Guyon.
distance. The first inspector was appoint- seen, 10 fr. To La Montagne Verte, a very
ed by Henry IV. in 1603. Visitors to Vicliy fine view on the other side of the Sichon,
should read the letters of Madame Sevig- 10 fr.The tariff in the town from 6 A.M.
ne she graphically describes the manners
: until midnight is one horse, 1 fr. 25 c. the
:
and customs of the visitors to A^ichy dur- course, and 25 c. the hour; for two horses,
ing her time. the course 2 fr., the hour 1 fr.
The Thermal Establishment of Vichy is The principal consulting physicians in
very fine. Vichy are Dr. Amable Dubois, inspector,
The springs of Vichy are twelve in num- and Dr. Willemin.
ber, eight of which are natural and four Returning to St. Germain des Fosses,
artificial. The principal are La Grande and continuing on our main route, we soon
Grille. Le Puits-Carre., Le Puit Chomel Lu- reach Gannat, famed for its beer, a town of
cas, UHopital, Les Celestins (these are all
I
some 5600 inhabitants, containing an inter-
from natural sources), and Haiiterive, Mes- esting church, dating partly from the 11th
dames and Pare, artesian. These are all century. This is a junction station, whence
the property of the st^te. The sources a line branches off to
Lardy and Larhand are private property. Montlucon. Population 21,250. Hotel de
The principal diseases for which the wa- France. This is an ancient town, strongly
ters are known to be efficacious are those fortified during the Middle Ages, standing
of the liver, skin, and womb, and in ffrav I. on the side of a hill, at the base of which
gout, rheumatism, hidigestion, diabetes, and runs the River Cher, whose summit is
catarrh. crowned by the ruins of a castle belong-
The new Casino of Vichy will repay a ing formerly to the Dues de Bourbon. This
visit. town and its castle were subjected to fre-
In 1862, a beautiful park, containing quent attacks from the English during their
twenty-six acres, was laid out along the occupation of a portion of the French do-
banks of the Allier it contains many beau-
; minions. Iron and plate-glass are manu-
tiful promenades it is protected b}^ a digue
; factured here.
1^ miles long; behind this park may be Riom, reached on the main line beyond
seen the Rocher des Celestins, at the foot of Gannat, contains some 10,700 inhabitants.
which that spring rises it takes its name
; This town is mostly built of basalt and lava
from a convent of that name which former- from the quan-ies of Vol vie. It contains
ly stood on its top. Its geological con- some manufactories of linen and cotton,
struction is very curious. brandy, and leather. On the boulevards
The Emperor Napoleon III. has done which surround the town a monument has
much toward the advancement of Vichy. been erected to General Desaix. St.
Its digue, p:irk, reservoir of fresh water for Gregory of Tours, one of the most ancient
the use of the town, a hotel de ville, light- French historians, was born here in 539
ing with gas, in addition to three beautiful he wrote the History of France, in 16 vols.
cluilets built for his own use and at his own The church of St. Amable is very interest-
expense, are all due to him. ing as a specimen of ancient architecture.
There are numerous pleasant excursions Chaiel-Gwjon (Puy-de-D6me), 273 miles
in the vicinity of Vichy, viz., to the Chateau —
from Paris rail to Eiom, omnibus or car-
of Raudm, distance ten miles this was
: —
riage to Cliatel-Guyon in 9 hours.
formerly the property of Madame Adelaide, From Paris to Chdtel-Guyon, via Riom.
the sister of Louis Philippe, who bequeathed From Paris to Riom, 270 miles, by La'Ous
it to her nephew, the Due de Montpensier. —
Railway (Bourbonnais) three trains daily
The tariff for two horses to Raudan is 2i fr. — in 8 hrs. 7 min., by express. Fare, first
To the Chateau de Bourbon Busset, distance class, 50 fr. 10 c. ; second class, 37 fr. 50 c.
ten miles some very beautiful views may
:
third class, 27 fr. 50 c.
be had during this excursion fare, two
; From Riom to Chdtel-Guyon, 3 miles, dil-
horses, 22fr. To Chateldon, the source of igence, in half an hour.
the celebrated water by that name fare ;
This town contains 1722 inhabitants,
20 fr. To Malrivaux, a romantic wild gorge, and is situated at the foot of a small
where the ruins of an ancient castle which —
mountain, in a fertile country a fine sit-
belonged to the Knights Templars maj' be uation, with beautiful excursions. The
4-50
nu
<Jl>IiUMONT-r ICKRAND. [FRANCE.] ROYAT.
Ijathing establishment has been enlarged particularly noted as being the place where
to accommodate the ever-increasing num- Tope Urban II. held his grand assembly
ber of patients. The -waters are thermal, of cardinals, archl)ishops, and bishops, in
and contain chloride of sodium, bicarbo- which he was assisted by Peter the Her-
nate of lime, magnesia, iron, and a consid- mit, who here proclaimed the first crusade.
erable quantity of gas from volcanic soil. In the midst of the Pope's eloquent ad-
There are thirteen springs, the entire yield dress, which melted everv listener to tears,
being over 500 litres per minute, with a the red cloaks worn by the nobility were
temperature of 30° centig. and the follow- torn in strips and laid on the breast, in the
ing qualities limpidity, absence of color form of a cross, of all who took the vow.
:
and smell, a piquant, salty taste, together Clermont was also the birthplace of Pascal,
with that of soda, yielding much gas and the celebrated mathematician.
carbonic acid. They are covered -with iri-
descent scales, and bear the peculiar mush- JRoyat (Puy-de-Dome), 420 miles by rail
rooms, or covjervoe, of a greenish color. from Paris, via Clermont-Ferrand, in 9 h.
The medical service is attended to by a 29 m. fare, 52 fr. 40 c. i—to Cermont-Fer-
;
physician-inspector appointed by the gov- rand, 428 m., in 8 h. 25 min. fare, 51 fr.
;
liver, and in stone, jaundice, and gravel. between two basalt mountains, planted
Clermont-Ferrand, formerly the capital with magnificent chestnut -trees. This
of Lower Auvergne, is situated on an emi- valley of Royat is considered to be of very
nence IcGo feet above the level of the sea, superior scenerj', abounding in fertile veg-
and contains a population of 38,000 inhab- etation, running brooks, cascades, shady
itants. Its principal hotels are Ilote^ de la grottoes and retreats — in a -word, every
Paix and Hotel de la Posie. It is composed thing to charm the eyes and senses.
of two towns, Clermont and Mont-Ferrand, Above it tower the rocks of the Puy-de-
fonnerly separate, but now united by a fine Dome, on which Pascal discovered the
promenade. Being situated near Puy-de- laws of atmospheric pressure, and wliere
Dome, it is surrounded by volcanic forma- recent excavations have laid bare the
tions of the most varied aspect. In one ruins of a magnificent temple to INIinerva
of its suburbs is the fountain of St. Alyne, built by the Romans.
the incrustations of which, during the suc- The bathing establishment contains 94
cessive deposits of 700 years, have formed baths, a large swimming-l>ath, fine halls
a curious natural bridge. Its principal ed- for hydropathy, a gymnasium, two bath-
ifices are the Gothic Cathedral and Cliurch rooms of carbonic acid, and rooms for in-
of Notre Dame. In the latter is a black halation and depulverization is therefore
;
image of the Virgin, which -was found at one of the most complete and important in
the l)ottom of a well. It was reported as the countr}-. In the park, fifteen minutes'
having the power to work miracles, and is walk from the portico of the establish-
much resorted to by pilgrims on the 15th ment, is a magnificent jet of water, which,
of May. Clermont has a university, acad- in its boiling, much resembles the Spren-
emy, normal school, and botanic gardens, a del of Carlsliad. It is the Grande Source,
chamber of commerce, and school of de- called tlie Eupenie, and yields 1000 litres
sign. It contains manufactories of linen per minute, or 1,-140,000 litres in 24 hours.
and woolen fabrics, hosiery, paper, and Tiie temperature is of o5° centig., the
cutlery. It is the entrepot of commerce most appropriate degree of heat for baths.
between Bordeaits; and Lyons and it is Thanks to the abundance of the spring,
;
151
La Bourboule. [FRANCE.] La Bourboule,
all the baths are given -with the running [
titles,notwithstanding their efficacy, were
water, unless contrary to doctors' orders. insufficient to supply more than a limited
The waters are thermal, gaseous, mixed number of invalids. Through important
with alkali and chlorate of soda, are ferru- drilling operations, under the direction of
ginous and lithiated, and have been known ]
the first French engineers, the Bourboule
since the time of the Romans. They spring can to-day give over 2000 baths daily.
from a volcanic region, and are four in Large bathing establishments have been
number, viz.. Source Eugenie, Source St. constructed, containing in the aggregate
Mart, Cesar, and St. Victor. Their pecul- 150 baths, and furnished with the most
iar qualities consist in limpidity, absence I
modern apparatus of ever}'- kind. They
of color and smell, different from that of are remarkabl}' comfortable.
carbonic acid, with an agreeable and piq- I The waters are thermal, and contaia
uant taste and are taken as a beverage,
;
I
gas, chloride of soda, mixed alkalies and
in baths, shower-baths, and by inhalation, i arsenic. They have probably been kno\?u
under the direction of an inspecting phy- •
since the time of the Romans. In 14G0 a
sician and eight consulting doctors. hospice was already standing near the
The waters from the springs St. Mart I
springs. The town stands on a base of
and Cesar are largely exported ; that I
granite 300 feet deep, under a turf-l)earing
from the St. Mart, on account of the soil, which covers the valley. There are
large quantity of lithia which it contains, five springs, viz., the Pennere (principal
is greatly used in all arthritic diseases spring), Sedaigucs, De la Plage, Fenestra
(gout, rheumatism, etc.). These waters j
No. 1, and Fenestre No. 2. They yield G30
are essentially digestive, and are more I
qts. per minute, with a temperature- of 60°
agreeable to drink than any other, on ac- I
centig. Their peculiar characteristics con-
count of their composition, which nature sist in limpidity, absence of both color and
has so well balanced. As to their physio- smell, with a salty taste. There is an in-
logical effects, the waters of Royat arc j
specting physician and twelve consulting
stimulating, tonic, and fortifying, on ac- I
physicians. The waters are taken in the
count of the carbonic acid, the chlorate of
I
way of a beverage, baths, shower-baths,
soda, the iron, magnesia, and arsenic which j
inhalations, and aspirations. Bourboule
they contain. The}' have the virtues of I
is 840 yards above the level of the sea.
alkaline waters, and are ordered in prefer- The season lasts from the 15th of May to
ence to those of Vichy in all cases where the 30th of September. In their physio-
the invalid may fear a debilitating result. logical effects, the waters are eminently
They have a strong effect on the mucus stimulating to the nervous system and to
of the air-passages. the circulation ;they are fortifying, and
La Bourboule (Puy-de-Dome), 311 miles act energetically on the skin and the lym-
from Paris, by rail and diligence, accom- phatic S3-stem. The Bourboule waters cer-
plished in 1-4 hours. Paris to the Bourboule, tainly owe their great efficacy to the sum
via Clermont-Ferrand, and Laqueville. Paris of their composition, though the presence
to Clermont-Ferrand, then to Laqueville, all of arsenic, which has been declared bj^ the
by rail (three trains daily), in 12 hours Academy of Medicine to amount to 7 mil-
16 minutes. Fare, first class, 58 fr. 85 c. ligrammes to every quart in the Source Per-
second class, 44 fr. 10 c. ; third class, riere, must be the principal agent in the
32 fr. 35 c. From Laqueville to La Bour- cures. All diseases of a hnnphatic nature
boule, by diligence, in \\ hours ; fare, 3 fr. and of scrofula are radically cured by the
50 c. Bourboule waters. Delicate children, de-
La Bourboule, a town of 500 inhabitants, bilitated young men, and all weak persons
is situated in the Dordogne, in a beautiful are restored to good health in a short time.
valley at the foot of an immense granite The exportation of the waters can be
rock sheltering it from the northern winds. effected without impairing their efficacy in
Twelve j^ears ago it was but a small vil- the slightest degree, through the density
lage, but in a short space of time it was of the salts and, above all, the arsenic,
transformed into a city of great import- which figures therein under the form of ar-
ance. Twelve years ago the sources gave seniate of soda.
but S5 qts. per minute. Such small quan- The ascent of the Puy-de-Dome, 4806 feet
452
.MoNT DOUE. [l-HANCE ] ESPAILLIiV
above the level of the sea, may be made I Returning to Clermont, we continue on
from Royat or from Cleniiout. The. dis- j
our juain route past
tance from Royat to the base of the Tuy is |
Issoire, the ancient Issiodorum of the
about 4 miles; carriages can not go beyond Romans, a town of G300 inliabitants, situ-
the base of tlie cone. i ated just above the junction of the Couze
with the Allier. The church of <SY. Paul is
From Laqueville the Baths of '
a tine architectural specimen of the 11th
Mont Dore are also reached. Diligences century. The Mont Dore may also be
leave Laqueville (see Bourboule) several reached by carriage-road from here. At
times daily during the bathing season, Arvant, a line branches off to Toulouse.
reaching Mont Dore in about 1 h. 30 m. Briou'k. — Population, 4937. Hotel du
fare, 3 fr. 50 c. Nord. This town contains little of inter-
lldtel Paris is one of the best. Here est but its church, dating from the 12th
people live mostly en pension, at a cost of i
century, with a curious semicircular end,
from 10 to 12 fr. a day, with table-d'hote on the outer wall of which are checkered
breakfasts and dinners at 10..S0 A.^l. and patterns in mosaic, formed of colored stones.
5.30 P.M. This village is situated in a St. George's d' Aunty is the junction
charming valley, through which the Dore whence a line branches off to Le Puy and
winds its way, 3412 feet above the level of St. Etienne. Near this village is the Cha-
the sea, and is suiTounded b}' verdant hills, teau de Chavagnac, the birthplace of Gen-
conspicuous among which rises the Capu- eral Lafayette,
cift, an isolated rock jutting forward on one Le Puy contains 20,000 inhabitants ;
side, and deriving its name from its sup- principal hotel, Des Ambassadeurs. It is
posed resemblance to a monk wearing a beautifully situated on the south slope of
hood. In this valley, the chief of those Mt.Cenis, crowned by the basaltic rock of
forming part of the volcanic excrescence Corneille, and has on its highest point n
which extends from here to a distance of picturesque Gothic cathedral, dating back
8 or 10 miles, measuring 18 leagues in cir- to the 10th centurj'. This cathedral is
cumference, the River Dordogne finds its celebrated for containing the rairacle-work-
source. ;
ing image of the Virgin and Child, called
The Etahlissement Thermal is situated Notre Dame du Puy. Many of the pope.^
near the banks of the Dore, Avith a tine and ancient kings of France have visited
promenade in front ; a season ticket, exclu- it. The numbers that flock to the cathe-
sive of G fr. for right to enter the reading- ' dral are not so great as formerly, owing to
room, costs 20 fr. the original figures, which were supposed
The mineral springs which issue from to have been made by the Prophet Jere-
the base of the Plateau de V Angle arc alka- miah, having been destroyed or removed,
line, and are chiefly efficacious in rhcuma- and the present ones made by a native art-
'
tism and in affections of the lungs and ist. On the side of the church is a tablet
stomach. One of the springs is cold, while recording the number of priests who were
the remaining seven vary in temperature slaughtered here b}' the Revolutionists in
from 102° to 114° Fahrenheit. The prin- 1793. The museum of Le Puy contains
cipal springs, La Madeleine and the Bain one of the mo.-t valuable collections of
de Cesar, are inclosed in Roman masonry, mineralogical and geological specimens in
|
have belonged to a Roman temple called the is carried on here to great extent, some
i
/'a7i^A<;'o« having been discovered here. The fine specimens of which may be seen ia
j
price of a bath, including linen, is 1 fr. 50c. the museum. The remains of Du Guesc-
There lire many pleasant walks and ex- lin, the illustrious warrior and Constable
cursions to be taken in the valley of the of France, were removed and deposited
Mont Dore, which abounds in lovely water- here in the church of St. Laurent.
falls,of which the finest is perhaps the A short distance from Lc Puy lies the
Cascade de Quereith. The Grande Cascade, village of E.<pai/ley. On the summit of a
about half an hours walk from the baths, rock stands the ancient castle in which
w^iich falls from a height of 80 feet, is also Charles VII. was residing when the news
well worthv of notice. of his father's death an-ived he was inv ;
Yor. T.-U 2
'
453
St. Etienne. [FKANCE.] ViLLEFRANCHE.
mediately declared his successor, whiie at The railway from here to Nimes —time
the same moment Henry VI. of England 1 h. 40 m.— possesses little to interest the
was crowned at Paris with great pomp. traveler.
St. Etienne is a town of about 96,600 in- Nimes. (See Route No. 121.)
habitants, situated on the branch road Travelers branching off at Arvant, en
from Le Pu}' to Lyons, being 3 h. 15 m. route for Toulouse, soon reach
distant by rail from the former town. St. Murat, 26 miles from Arvant, an an-
Etienne is advantageously situated for car- cient town of 2657 inhabitants, formerly
rying on an extensive trade, being sur- possessing a castle, destroyed in 1477 by
rounded on all sides by coal-mines, and Louis XI. The hills surrounding the
standing at the same time on the banks of town present a very curious appearance,
the River Furens, which furnishes the nec- being mostly capped with basalt one of ;
essary water-power for moving the ma- these, rising just back of the town, called
chinery of its large and constantly increas- the Roche Bonneiie, is composed of regular
ing manufactories. The weaving of rib- basaltic pillars varying from thirty to fifty
bons and the making of fire-arms are its feet in height.
two most flourishing manufactures. The Aurillac, a town of 11,100 inhabitants,
3Ianvfacture Nationale d^ Amies employ's containing little to interest the traveler
about 2500 workmen, under the superin- its ancient buildings, such as convents,
tendence of artillery officers, where every churches, bishop's palace, etc., having been
barrel made must pass through a trial at destroyed by the Huguenots in 1569, when
the proof-house, which is opened twice a the town was taken by assault. The only
week. At the gunsmith's shop a musket existing ancient edifice is the castle of St.
may be obtained for 10 or 15 fr., although Etienne, now the Ecole Normale, situated
the sum usually paid by the government is on a hill to the west of the town, said
35 fr. and upward. About 300,000 stand to have belonged to the ancestors of St.
of arms are made annually for private sale; Gerand, who lived in the 10th centurj'.
there are also numerous manufactories of A bronze statue of Pope Sylvester II.,
hardware and cutlery in the town, where educated in the Benedictine monastery of
12,000 knives are fabricated weekly. The Aurillac, occupies the centre of the princi-
weavers of ribbons live chiefly in the out- pal square.
skirts of the town and in the neighbor- Figeac (Jlotel Poste) is situated at the
ing village, and are estimated to number bottom of a valley, shut in by steep hills,
40,000. The annual value of ribbons made through which the Cere takes its course.
in the neighborhood amounts to about 80 Population, 7610. The church of St. Sau-
million francs. The town contains, in ad- veur has a Romanesque basement, with a
dition to a large Hotel de Ville, a Palais superstructure of later date. The choir
des Arts witb a 3fuseum containing a col- dates from the 11th century. Notre Dame
lection of ancient arms and armor of all de Put/, situated on a hill above the town,
countries, founded by Marshal Oudinot. is also of the 11th century, and contains a
There is also a theatre, botanical garden, fine and richly carved altar-screen. Fi-
and an !^cole des Mines. geac was the birthplace of Champollion, to
Returning to our main route to Niraes, whom an obelisk has been erected on the
we pass little of interest until we reach banks of the river.
—
Alois. Hotel du Luxembourg. This is
an important manufacturing town of about
20,000 inhabitants, situated at the southern
extremity of an extensive coal-field, in Villefixmche, situated on the Aveyron,
which iron is also to be found. About was built in the 14th century, and was one
1,000,000 tons of coal are extracted from it of the Bastides, or free towns. It contains
annualh', the French steam-navy at Toulon many ancient houses of verj'' picturesque
being supplied from here. The chief col- appearance, dating from the 15th and 16th
lieries are at Grand Combe, 11 miles distant centuries but its principal building is the
;
by rail. Alais is one of the great southern Collegiate Church, a large Gothic edifice
depots of raw silk, and contains numerous standing in the market-place, surrounded
silk-mills, glass-works, and iron furnaces. by arcades. Population, 9719. At
i5i
Capdenac. [FRANCE.] To Lyons, etc.
From Paris to Nevcrs, Moulins, and St. and dirtystreets, the usual c'naracteristics
Germain des Fosses, see Eoute Xo. 122. of a manufacturing town. The regenerat-
After leaving St. Germain des Fosses ing hand of the late emperor, however,
the railway emerges from the vallev of the effected many changes. Lyons is the
Allier, and entering on a hilly country chief seat of the silk manufacture, incluu-
soon reaches ing that of velvets, satins, and other va-
Eocnine, an important town, containing rieties of the same fabric, but the present
20,000 inhabitants. It is finely situated number of silk-looms is much below what
on the left bank of the Loire, at the head it was at a former time, prior to the exten-
of that river's navigation. From hence sive pursuit of this branch of industry by
the productions of Lyons and the Levant, Zurich and other places on the Continent,
the coal of St. Etienne, and the iron of as well as the fuller development among
Southern France, which have been brought the manufactures of England. There are
here by canal or rail, are conveyed to in Lyons large factories for the produc-
Kantes, on the western coast of France, or tion of cotton, woolen, and other goods,
L}" the Loire and Canal de Briare and the besides gold lace, jewelry, and other arti-
Seine to Paris. Notice the admirable cles.
bridge over the Loire, wliich cost $600,000. To obtain a topographical view of Lyons,
After passing through a tunnel nearly two and at the same time a very beautiful sight,
miles long, we arrive at the traveler had better make the ascent of
Tararc, a town of 15,100 inhabitants, the heights of Fourvieres in reaching them
;
noted for its manufacture of muslin, the from the Hotel de Lyon you pass the Hos-
town and all the immediate vicinity being pital >f Antiquities, liuilt on the site of the
I
employed in that branch of industry. The Roman palace where Claudius and Caligula
muslin is remarkable for its fineness, and both were bom. On the top of the heights
the weavers are obliged to work in the stands the church of Xoti-e Dame de Fonr-
damp and cold, the moisture being neces- viere, surmounted with a dome supporting
sarj' to keep the thread from breaking. a colossal copper figure of the Virgin. The
church contains numerous oflTerings to the
Virgin, whose intercession is said to have
saved L}ons from being devastated by
cholera. Close to the church an enterprising
individual has built a tower which stands
over 600 feet above the bed of the Saone,
Lyons, situated at the confluence of the and on clear days Mont Blanc, 100 miles
Rhone and Saone ; population, 342,815. distant, is often seen. Immediately behind
The principal hotel is the Grand Hotel de Fourvieres stands the church of St. Ira-
Lyon, first class in ever}- respect. No. 16 nee, of no importance in itself, ])Ut erect-
Rue de Lyon (omnibus at thePerrache ed on the spot where that cruel tNTant,
station for all express trains).Lyons is the Septimus Severus, in the year 202, caused
centre of manufactures in France, and the the massacre of nearly 20,000 Christians
second city in the republic in point of size who had met here to pray. Their bodies
and population. Under the Latin name of were thrown into the vaults underneath
Lugdunum it was the capital of Celtic Gaul. the church. The museum contains several
In modern times its share in the horrors of fine pictures by some of the best masters.
the Revolution, where it was one of the The principal picture in the gallery is the
chief scenes of the Jacobin excesses, has Ascension, by Perugino, master of Raphael.
aided in giving it notoriety. Sir Edward There are also a number by Rubens, Guer-
Bulwer Lytton has rendered its name en- cino, Teniers, and Palmo Vecchio. There
duringh' popular in connection with scenes are also some specimens of Roman antiqui-
of an opposite and more attractive kind. ty^, foremost among which are the bronze
Along the banks of the Rhone and the tables on which is carved a speech of
Saone are magnificent quays ; and the city Claudius, a native of Lyons, delivered be-
possesses many fine public edifices, which fore the Roman Senate in A.D. 48. Among
we will notice in detail. It is, however, the celebrated persons born in Lyons was
for the most part closely built, with narrow Jaci^uard, inventor of the silk-loom. There
455 J-
Lyoxs. [FRANCE.] Lyons.
were tied to a cable, sixty at a time, and by cutting in half two ancient Roman
cannon loaded with grape-shot were tired columns these are supposed to have
;
Fourvi'eres, and Croix-Rousse ; the last stands nceiim of Caligula, whose buildings in-
above the suburbs of that name, which are cluded the Augustan altar. In the dun-
principally inhabited by silk-weavers, who geons under the sacristy Pothimis and
live in houses of immense height, in nar- Blandina were confined, pi-evious to sufter-
row, dirty streets. This suburb is the hot- ing martyrdom, during the persecution of
bed of insurrection, teeming with turbu- the Christians under Marcus Antoninus,
lence and sedition nearly all the riots and
;
A.D. 177.
revolts in Lyons have sprung from this There are numerous charitable institu-
quarter there are over 30,000 silk-weav-
: tions in Lyons, the ])rincipal one being
ers in Lyons, all of whom are, physically the IJutel bieu, standing on the quay fac-
considered, an inferior set of men, and arc ing the Rhone, This is one of the most
generally exempt from military duties on ancient hospitals in France, having been
that account. They do not work in large founded by Childebert and his queen L'l-
the 15th century. The Conseil des Pnid- Rhone, said to have
Gidllotiere, across the
hommes, alluded to in our description of been founded in the time of Pope Innocent
Paris, is here brought into requisition with IV., 1190,
very beneficial effect, in settling difficul- There are two theatres in Lyons the:
ties arisinfr between master and man. Om- Grand Theatre, just back of the Hotel de
4553^
To Geneva. [FRANCE.] Chancy.
Yille, and another in the Place des Celes- mantled by the Austrians after the down-
tins. fall of the tirst Napoleon
; it has since been
and rebuilt by him, the only portion of the "Modern "NVines," on the subject of Bur-
j
Philippe le Hardi at Courtrai, as one of the the whole length of their range, at the
most curious works then in existence its bases of which a plain of argillaceous,
; I
bells are struck by two hammer-men, ap- deep-reddish earth extends itself, rich in
i
pointed for that purpose, and called Jacque- agricultural produce of another species.
mars, a corruption of the maker's name. The training of the vines is after the low
Dijon contains a prefecture, a large old method, on sticks about three feet long.
court-house, theatre, hospitals, prisons, and They are set much closer together than is
an orphan asylum, also a national court for in general customary. The superficies de-
the departments, courts of assize and com- voted to vine cultivation in the depart-
I
458
Dijon. [FRANCE.] Dijow.
—
francs over ten millions of dollars. The mingled deteriorate the quality and injure
wines of France are grateful and ben- I
the bouquet.
eficial to the palate and to health they ;
I
" It is unnecessaiy to go into the histo-
do not, by being too strongl}' impregnated : ry of the lower growths of the wines of
with brandy, carry disease into the stom- Burgundy, because the}- are rarely export-
ach at the moment of social joy they;
ed. It will suffice to take a cursory no-
cheer and exhilarate, while they fascinate '
"The difference of the qualities of the The soil is gravelly, with loam. The gravel
wine may be judged by the following lists is calcareous, and the subsoil marl, with
of prices, taking for example the arrondisse- small shells. It is a wine of great fullness,
mcnt of Beaune, in the centre of Cote d'Or. ! keeps well, and has the aroma perfect. It
There 2300 hectolitres of superior wine are I
was the favorite wine of Napoleon. The
produced at 125 francs each, 17,700 at 95, first class never passes out of France.
45,000 fme wines at 60, 60,000 of good or- They make an effervescing Chambertin, a
dinar}' at 30, and 113,670 at 18 francs. . wine inferior to good Champagne. It
This may serve as a specimen of the other wants the delicate bouquet of Champagne,
districts in respect to quality, except in by the absence of which it is easily detect-
the department of the Saone and Loire ed. The French complain of its having too
80 francs the hectolitre is the highest much strength; but this would commend
price, and 15 the lowest. In the depart- it in England or America. It is a very-
ment of the Yonne, the higher classes of delicate wine notwithstanding, and highly
real Burgundy fetch from 300 to 400 francs agreeable to the palate. It has been fre-
the muiJ^\ or rather 125 the hectolitre, quently imported into London, and is much
while the lowest brings but 14 francs. commended by those whose regard for the
The white wines bring from 98 to 23. delicate bouquet of Champagne is less than
Thus the white wines neither rise as high that for the carbonic otfervesicnce of sim-
nor sink as low as the red. The quantity ilar growths. In spirit it is, perhaps, a
of alcohol in these wines is said to be 13.50 little above the average of (champagne,
are those called the Xoirien and Pineau. other choice spot, called Essejaux, which is
The Gibaudot and the Garnet^ -which last ; much esteemed, but less so than the high-
grape has an ill name, are used for the in- er part of Clos-Yougeot. Farther on is
ferior kinds of wine. The Garnet yields Vosnes, a village which produces the most
largely, sometimes a thousand gallons an exquisite wines that can be drank, uniting
acre. It is manured, and is called the poor to richness of color the most delicate per-
man's wine. The Chaudemy, for white fume, a racy flavor, tine aroma, and spirit.
wine, gathered here at the latest period,
is "The most celebrated of these wines
and carefully assorted. There is a saj-ing are the Romanee-vivant (so called from a
that a bottle of Chambertin, a ragout a la monastery of that name), Romanee-Cunti,
tSardanapale, and a lady causeuse, are the Richehourg^ and La Taclie. The vineyard
three best companions at table in France. producing the first-mentioned wine is be-
"At Beze, St. Jacques, Mazy, Veroilles, low those which jdeld the Richebourg and
Musigny, Chambolle, the Clos Bernardon, Romanee-Conti, and contains only 10 hec-
du Koi, of the Chapitre, of Chenove, of tares of ground. The Romanee-Conti is
Marcs d'Or, of Violsttas, of Dijon, in the considered the most perfect and best wine
commune of that name, most excellent in Burgundy. Ouvrard, the contractor,
wine is made.In the Clos de Li Perriere, I
bought this vineyard for 80,000 francs.
in the commune of Fixin, belonging to M. \
The wine is produced in an inclosure of
Montmort, a wine in qiialit}' and value \
about 2 hectares in extent, forming a paral-
equal to Chambertin is grown. Many of j
lelogram, and the quantity made is very
these vineyards produce white wines as i
small. The Richebourg inclosure, of the
well as red. I
same form, contains only about 6 hectares.
" In Beaime, as already stated, the wine The aspect of the Romanee-Conti is south-
countn,' is much more extensive than in east, and the ground forms an angle of 5° in
Dijon. Tha aspect, as before observed, is slope. There is no difference in the man-
northeast and southwest, being the direc- agement from that of the neighboring
tion of the main road conducting from Dijon growths.
to Chalon-sur-Sa6ne, passing through the " Continuing to follow the road, about a
[
towns of Beaune and Xuits, Ijoth names fa- league from Vosnes is the small town of
Nuits. X part of the ground extends south-
j
commune Yougeot.
is Upon the right west, and is mostly flat. Upon this supe-
hand on leaving the village, the vineyard rior wines are grown and among them,
;
of about 48 hectares, 112^ acres English, George's, of exquisite flavor, delicious bou-
and sold for 1,200,000 francs; the aspect quet, and great delicacv. IThe other vine-
is E.S.E., and the slope of the ground yards on the road produce wines of ordi-
makes an angle of from 3° to 4°. Here nary quality. In the commune of Aloxe
produced the celebrated wine Clos- a wine called Corton is grown, which is in
'
is
Vougeot. The upper part of the land repute for its bouc^uet, delicacy, and bril-
turns a little more south, forming an angle liant color. The ground upon Avhich this
of 5° or 6°. The soil upon the surface wine is made gives only 10 or 12 litres of
j
differs in this vineyard the lower part is wine each hectare, of which there are but
; I
clay, while the uppermost has a mixture of 46. Nothing is more remarkable or unac-
'
Urns, and there the best wine is grown. countable than the difference of production
I
The average is about two hogsheads and a in these fine wine districts. The most de-
half the English acre. Xo manure is used licious Avines are sometimes grown on ono
;
but the soil from the bottom is carried up little spot only, in the midst of vineyards
;
and mingled with that at the top. The which produce no other but of ordinary
j
cellars contain vats, each of which contains quality ; while, in another place, the prod-
'
about 14 hdsheads, in which the must is uct of a vineyard, in proportion to its sur-
j
f3rmGnted the time occupied is uncertain, face, shall be incrediidy small, 3'et of ex-
: i
The wine is best when the fermentation is quisite quality ; at the same time* in tha
,
4 GO
Dijon. [FRANCE.] Dr.TON.
soil, aspect, treatment as to culture and spe- while Mont-Rachet sells for 1200
that,
cies of plant, tlu're .shall be no perceptible francs the hectolitre, the Chevalier brings
difterencc to the eye of the experienced but 600, and the Batard only 400. There
wine-grower. In such a district as the are two vine-grounds near, called the Per-
Cote d'Or it is difference of site rather than rieres and Clavoyon, which produce the
treatment to which the superior wine owes white wines, sought after only from their
its repute, fur there is no want of competi- vicinity to Mont-Rachet.
tion in laboring after excellence. " Chassagne, four leagues southwest of
"Bordering on Aloxe is the vineyard Beaune, called Chassagne le Haut, and Le
of Beaune, a well-known wine of a very Bas, not far from Puligny, is productive
agreeable character. Not far from thence vine-land. The canton of Morgeot con-
is produced the Volnay, a fine, delicate, light tains tvventy hectares, which produce a
wine, with the taste of the raspberr}-, and red wine much sought after. It faces the
Pomard, of somewhat more body than Vol- southwest, and owes its good qualities to
nay, and, therefore, better calculated to its excellent aspect. The village of 8an-
keep, especially in warm climates. These tenay, on the borders of the department
are wines which, when genuine, bear a terminating the elevated land, grows some
good character all over the world. choice wines, such as Clos-Tavannes, Clos-
" Between Yolnay and Mcursault the Pitois, and the Gravieres, though not equi.1
vinej'ard of Santenot is situated. It con- in quality to those already enumerated.
sists of twelve hectares upon a southern There is an infinite variety in the Avines
slope. The higher part produces a cele- of Burgundy which an Englishman can
brated white wine, called Meursault the hardly comprehend. Accustomed to wince
;
middle and lower a red, which is consider- less delicate than intoxicating, and regard-
ed preferable to Volnay. In the neigh- ful rather of the wine taken from habit
borhood of ^leursault are grown the wines than quality, his favorite beverage is cho-
denominated passe-tous- grains' by the sen more from that cause than perfection
'
Frencli, and the dry white wines, of a slight of flavor. The nature of the soil, the as-
sulphurous taste, and much drank in hot pect, the season, the plant, and mode of
seasons, called wine of Genevricres, of the culture, as well as the making, each and
Goutte d'Or, and of Perrieres. The quan- all equally affect the quality of these Avincs
tity of hectares on which these last wines more than Avines in general, on account of
are grown is but sixteen. The situation their great delicacy. The most finished
to the southwest of ^leursault, where it and perfect Burgundies, the French say,
johis Puligny, is noted for the delicious are deteriorated liy so short a A-oyage as
white wine called Mont-Rachct, of exqui- that across the Channel from Calais to Do-
site perfume, and deemed one of the most A'er, including, of course, the journey to
perfect white v.ines of Burgundy, and even the former place. They are never sent
of France, being the Frencli Tokay, in the aAvay but in bottle.
opinion of many connoisseurs, but only in " The best Burgundies, called as t€'fs de
renown, for these wines bear little resem- euvees, are from the select Aines, namcJy,
blance to each other. The A-ine-ground the Noirien and Plnean. Grown on the
of Mont-Rachet is dirided into VAin<' 3Iont- best spots in the vineyard, haA'ing the
Kachet, le Chevalier Mont-Rachet, and la finest aspect, these rank first in quality,
Batai'd ^lont-Rachet. The vineyard of and are Avines, when Avell made in faA-ora-
the Chevalier, which is on the higher part ble seasons, which include every excel-
of the ground, is a slope of about twelve or lence that the most choice palate can appre-
fifteen degrees, and contains about eighteen ciate fine color, enough of spirit, raciness,
:
hectares. L'Aine, or the true Mont-Ra- good body, great fineness, an aroma and
I
chet, is about six or seven hectares. The bouquet A'ery poAverful, strong in odor, and
'
Batard is only separated from the two oth- that peculiar taste Avhich so remarkably
|
cr vineyards by the road which leads from distinguishes them from all otiior Avines of
j
Puligny to Chassagne, and contains about France. The next, called the first curtes
I
twelve hectares. These vineyards have rius de primenr^ approximate A-ery closely
all the same southeastern aspect, yet the to the first class in quality, except that the
mne fiom them is so different in quality perfume is not quite so high. GockI Avines,
461
Dijon. [FRANCEO Dijox.
lesbonnee cuvees, -vv-hich are grown on a soil arc more or less flat, acid, without body,
less favorable than the foregoing, are in and deficient in firmness and strength.
an aspect inferior, fairly rank thh-d in "The prices of the wines of the Cote d' Or
qualitv. Then come les cuvees roiides, hav- differ greatly, and can not be fixed. The
ing the same color as the foregoing, and teiesde cuvee, or choice products in the best
equal their strength, but -wanting their years, are not sold under 1000 francs the
full fineness and bouquet. Next, they dis- queue or tonneau, or 215 francs the hecto-
tinguish tha second and third cuvees, the litre. Les premier cuvees' in such sea-
'
color of which is often weak to the pre- sons bring 700 or 800 francs, according to
ceding growths. They are deficient in their grades of distinction les bonne cu- ;
'
spirit, and destitute of fineness and flavor. vees,' from 600 to 700; 'les ronde,' from
These three last classes of the wmes of 400 to 500; 'les deuxieme et troisieme,'
Burgundy come from the same species of from o50 to 400 and above the others not ;
wine as the two first, but the soil is inferi- more than two hundred francs.
or, or the aspect not so good, being, per- "The Mont-Rachet brings 1200 francs,
haps, more humid, or less exposed to the the other white wines from 300 to GOO, and
sun. Their abundance compensates the the common sorts from 50 to 70 the queue.
grower for their inferiority. "It often happens in superior years that
" Of the common red wines of Cote d'Or ',
the best wines, after making, do not bear
there are two sorts, called wines di tons a higher price than 400 francs and yet, ;
grain, or passe tous grains, which come from in fifteen months, 1200 or 1500 are demand-
a mixture of the Xoirien and Pineau grape ed for them. It may easily be judged,
with the Gamay. The wine de tons (/rains therefore, that no scale of prices, when the
is an ordinary wine, which, when good, is wines are perfect, can be permanent, ow-
much esteemed in hot seasons. It has a ing to this circumstance. The following
deep color, tending to the violet, much is a list of the prices the Eurgund}' wines
body, sufficient spirit, and, after a certain brought from the vineyards on the hills
age, a little bouquet. It is a coarse wine, of Boaune, on an average of ten years
but will keep a long time without sickness but it must be borne in mind that the time
cf any kind, and is much valued for sus- of purchase was at the vintage, immediate-
taining such wines as tend to dissolution. ly upon making, and paid by the highest
It is often much better than those vvhich bidder, and not when the wines had been
are called les scconde et troisieme cuvees'
'
kept. Volnay, the queue, 460 francs Po- ;
'•
There are only two sorts of white 420 fr. Aloxe, 430 fr. Aloxe, the Corton
; ;
the white Pineau, and the second from the sagne Morgeot, 470 fr. The product of
common plant mingled with it. These Pulign}-, viz. Mont-Rachet, 1000 fr. Per-
: ;
two sorts are marked by two or three sub- rieres and Clavoyon, 380 fr. Meursault
divisions. The first in quality, the finest wines, viz. Les Genevrieres, La Goutte
:
and the best, is the Mont-Rachet, already d'Or, 450 fr, and Saulenot red wine, 480
;
mentioned. It is distinguishable in good fr. the common red wines sell for 90 or
;
years for its fineness, lightness, bouquet, 100 fr.. and the white from 75 to 90 fr., in-
and exquisite delicacy, having spirit, with- cluding the cask.
out too great dryness, and a luscious taste, " The wines from the Xuits district are
without cIo3'ing thickness. In making, I superior to those of Beaune fcr aroma,
they endeavor to keep it with as little col- body, softness, raciness, and will bear
or of any kind as possible no doubt for
; 1 transport to any distance Premaux, 5rfO :
tion of oxygen, which incorporates with fr. ;Romance St. A'ivant, 700 fr. ; Roma-
them while in contact Avith the atmos- nee-Conti, 6 or 7 fr. a bottle ; Vougeot,
phere. Most of the other white wines of 530 fr. ; Clos de A'ougeot. 5 or 6 fr. the bot-
the Cote d'Or differ most essentially from tle, at ten or a dozen years old, if the vint-
that of Mont-Rachat. The common kinds [
age has been very fine if otherwise, a* ;
462
Dijon. [FRANCE.] DijoN.
three cr four years from the vintage. It the vintage. The good ordinary -wir.es
is preserved in have vats till bottled, in arc bottled at the end of the tirbt year, or
which it mellows better than in the cask. they remain longer, if convenient to the
The quantity produced is but about two consumer. The care bestowed upon the
hogsheads and a half to the English acre. making accelerates or retards the perfec-
The white wine made here has been long tion of these wines. The longest dura-
diminishing. The grape is the black and tion of the finest wines most capable of
white Pincau and the Chamknny. No ma- keeping does not exceed 12 or 15 years
nure is permitted. The vines are fifteen from the season in which thej^ are made
inches apart. After that time, though they vill suppcrl
"The proprietors of the vineyards of themselves some years, they decline in-
Vougeot and Komanoe-Conti do not usual- stead of improving. From the second
ly sell their v.ines in wood, nor, except in year in bottle the fullest bodied and hardi-
years of bad quality, do they sell them im- est wines have attained their highest de-
mediately, and then generally by auction. gree of perfection. All that can be de-
They keep them in their c"ellars for years, sired after this period is that they shall
and only at last dispose of them in bottles not deteriorate. The duration of the or-
made on purpose, and bearing their own dinary wines is not so easily defined.
seals. In the arrondissement of Dijon They are rarely kept long in bottle, for
the followin jc were not long since the price after the second or third year they would
of two-year-old wines. It may be judged, become good for little. The produce of
from what has already been stated, that some of the wines of the Cote d'Or is near-
such a list can only be an approximation ly a thousand English gallons the acre.
to the truth for consecutive years. The " The manner of making the be: t and
Avhite wines less celebrated in this district most celebrated wines of the Cote d'Or is
than the red carry a price generally of 456 sufliciently coarse: the grapes are com-
litres the queue, or about 114 gallons; monly trodden before they are thrown into
Chambertin, 800 to 1000 fr. the queue; the vat a part of the stalks are then taken
;
district. The prices in the arrondissement more. The white wines are perfect .'it
of Auxerre are 40 francs the niuid of 280 three or four years old, but are subject to
litres, to 300 and 350. get thick as they acquire age. In the
'
' These -vvines may
be arranged in three wine districts of the Yonne the wines are
classes : The the black
first is made from racked twice the first year, and not again
Pineau grape alone it has a good color, ; except just before they are sold. Thev
and agreeable bouquet, with strength and are never fined except for bottling. The
spirit, and yet does not injure the head or vineyards of Availlon produce three dis-
stomach. In this class may be placed the tinct qualities of wine the first delicate,
:
following wines in their order of superiori- fine, spirituous, and good, bringing 50
Quetard, Pied de liat, Chapotte, Judas, ordinary quality, bringing 40 francs; third-
Boussicat, Eosoir, Champeau, the lies, ly, common wines, worth very little. The
j
These wines are produced on 130 hectares best wines of Availlon are those from
j
Irancy and Cravant wine is produced. Thurot, Gh-olles, and Etandes. These
Palotte, worth about 90 francs the hecto- wines are treated verj^ nearly the same as
litre, and much esteemed. in Auxerre prior to bottling. The Champ-
"This district produces red wines still gachot is liable to a singular disease. In
lower in price. The second class of wines spite of racking, andthe care taken,
all
's made from the grapes called Tresseau, it is sometimes loaded, in spring, with a
rojnain, audjjlant du Roi, alone or mingled. cloudiness, which changes its taste and
Of this class the Tresseau alone is the su- hue. In this state they are careful not to
perior kind the wine sells for 36 francs
; disturb it, and it soon works itself clear
the hectolitre. The third class is made and of a good color It is rarely better
from the vine Camay or Gamei, and is on j
than after this sickness, which never hap
that account a common wine, strongly !
pens but once. Some of the growers are
colored, but cold. remarkable that It is pleased to see the wine put on this appear
j
five hectares of vineyards. These wines aspect is the vine-ground from Tronchoy
sell in the common run of the seasons at to Epineuil inclusively, where the most
from 250 to 300 francs the muid. distinguished wines are grown, such as
"The third class of white wines is the of Preaux, Perrieres, des Poches, and oth-
product of the Plant vert, grown in a bad ers, particularly Olivotte, in the commune
aspect and soil, and brings about 23 francs of Dannemoine. The wines of Tonnerre,
the hectolitre. \
of the finest kind, fetch 90 francs the hecto-
" The white wines of the first quality do litre, on an average ; and the other kinds,
not keep so well as the red. The first in gradation, from 60 to 35, The wine of
class of red wines is often kept in the wood Olivotte, one of the best, has a good flavor,
for more than three years after bottling. is fine, and of excellent color, but it lacks
It is excellent after it has remained a year the true bouquet unless in ver}- favorable
in bottle, and will keep good for ten years |
years. The communes which furnish the
4G4
Dijon, [FRANCE.] Dijon,
alh- dearest in years when their quality is but the white are bottled in the month of
indifferent. This has given rise to the ^larch of the first year. They are twice
l)roverb among the wine-growers. Via ve>-f, racked and fined only six days before bot-
vi:i cher —'tart wine, dear wine.' The tling. In Autun there are three qualities
reason of this is, that the good quality of of wines. The best is called Maranges;
the wine always accompanies al)undant it is left in wood tliree years, bottled the
years, and the reverse. The cultivation fourth, and keeps well. Its mean price is
of the vine in these districts lias been very 76 francs. The second quality of wine is
much improved of late. The quantity of that of Sangeot, and, indeed, all the wines
ft-uit produced is also more considerable. of Dezi/.e, except ^laranges. These are
The svstom in the Maconnais is for tlio ordinar\- wines, and bottled at three vcara
4G5
DiJOK. [FKANCE.] Dijon.
'
best wines are from the noirien grape, and i spot of ground of about six acres, the same
the best of the first growth fetch GG francs, i remark will apply. The genuine Cham-
and of the second growth 4i francs. These \
bertin is a scarce wine Avith the foreigner.
wines have a fine and delicate taste ; they I
la the ordinary wines the aroma is not to the stranger almost universally.
i This
present, they are pleasant drinking
still !
is, hoAvever, of less consequence, when it
of their class. The better ordinary wines is considered that A'ery fcAv persons, except
of Chiilons increase in value by age, aug- those of the best taste habitually acquaint-
j
menting a fourth in price every year they ed Avith them, can discern the difi'erenco.
are kept. A bottle of the finest Avine ! Tn Avholesomeness, and CAcry essential
fetches from 2 to 3 francs. In the arron- quality to the ordinarA' drinker, they are
dissements, the produce of which is not i
equal to the first groAvths. To recapitu-
here detailed, the mean price of the hecto- j
late the Avines of the Cote d'Or, the finest
litre is from 20 to 24 francs. Such are Burgundies of the Cote de Kuits are, Ho-
these wines, the most perfect ever grown, manoe-Conti, La Tache, Chambertin, Ro-
.•:nd yet" the care taken of them by the maneo St. ViA'ant, Richeb.ourg, Nuits, St.
maker from the press to the bottle is by George's, Clos-Yougeot, Premaux, Vosnes,
no moans equal to that taken of Cham- and La Perriere, Of the Cote de Beaune,
pagne. Nature and the site, Avith the ob- Chambolle, Musigny, A'^olnay, Pomard,
servance of a very simple and common Beaune, Savigny, Aloxe, Aloxe de Cortin.
process, are all that are demanded to bring Of the Cote de Challonais, Vosnes, jMorey,
to its present perfection the first red wine Santenot, St. Aubin. IMaranges. These aro
in the world. the three first and finest qualities among
"The secret of the excellence of Bur- red Avines. Of Avhite, the celebrated Mont-
gundy depends upon unknown cjualities in Rachet takes the first place, then the
the soil, which are developed only in par- Goutte d'Or and GencA-ricres of Meursault.
ticular places, often in the same vineyard, The red Avines of the second class aboA-e
at all events within a very narroAv district. are many of them a little inferior to the
Whatever be the cause, France has in these first. The first class of the Avines of the
wines a just cause for boast, and a staple Yonne comprises those called Olivettes,
in which she has never been excelled. near TonneiTe, and Perriere. Those of
AVhile much is owing to the climate and Auxerre haA'e been enumerated in a pre-
aspect, evident that the peculiar char-
it is ceding page, to AA'hich, in the second class,
acteristics of Burgundy depend least upon may be annexed the Avines of Epineuil, Les
the art or labor of man, since wines inferior Poches, Haute Pemcre, L'ancA', Danne-
in quality receive as much or more of his moine, and Coulanges la Vineuse. The
attention than those of Burgundy. There Avhite wines of the first class are Chabiis,
is verj'- little of the first class of these Tonnerre, Le Clos, Vauxdesir. The first
wines exported from France, in this re- class ofBurgundies in the Saone and Loire
spect difffesing from Champagne, where are Moulin-a-A'cnt, Torins, and Chenas.
the best finds its Avay into foreign coun- The second class comprise Fleuri, Chapclle
tries. There are several reasons for this, de Bois, and, in short, all the district of
and among the foremost the small quan- Romaneche." The luifftt at the station of
tity produced, which the French, Avho are Lyons is very fine, and the landlord, M.
choice in wines, know ver}"^ well how to Paul, is a liberal Avholesale dealer in Avines.
distinguish, but which foreign merchants After leaA-ing D'ljon Ave pass the Vougeot
very rarely do. As good a price can be station, renowned for its celebrated Avines,
obtained in France ft* the highest class described by INIr. Redding. We
next pass
of Bur.undy, such as Romanee-Conti. of Nuiis a tOAvn of 3000 inhabitants: its wines,
4'JG
Beaune. [FRANCE.] ViENSB,
described above, were rendered famous as hotel, Table JRonde. It was made the me;,
far back as 1G76 by Louis XIV., whose tropolis of the \'iennoi.se by the Romans,
physician prescribed their use exclusively, and was the capital of the first kingdom
for the purpose of restoring his health. of Burgundy, and the residence of the Dau-
Beaune^ a town of ll,OuO inhabitants. phin, it has a Gothic cathedral, and nu-
Hotel de Fnmce, fair. It contains a line merous ancient remains, among which is
hospital, founded in 1443; a public library the Castle of Saloman, supposed by some
of 10,000 volumes ; it has manufactories to be the prison of Pilate, he having l)een
of cloth, leather, and casks. Its principal banished from Rome to Vienna, in Gaul,
trade, however, is in the wines of Burgun- after his return from Jerusalem. Pope
dy, nearly 100 of the leading mercantile Clement V. and Philippe le Bel here held
houses being engaged in that business, i
a council in 1.311, and abolished the Order
Over 40,000 butts are annually exported. of the Templars.
Monge, the celel)rated mathematician and i After passing the village of St. Vallier,
favorite of Napoleon, was born here. the Chateau de Fonsus may be seen stand-
Chdlon-sur-Saune., as its name indicates, ing on a hill back of the village of the
is situated on both banks of the Saone same name, where it is said Pontius Pilate
it contains 20,000 inhabitants. There is committed suicide by throwing himself
nothing in this town worth seeing. Here from a rock • Nearl v at the mouth of the
!
the Canal du Centre connects the Loire River Doux, on our left, before we arrive
with the Saone. Hotels, //. du Fare and at Tain, Ave perceive a small conical hill.
//. Ti'ois Faisuns. There is a granite col- Tradition says that an inhabitant of the
umn supposed to be a relic of the Roman town of Condrieu determined to turn her-
period, also an obelisk to the memory of |
mit, and established his cell on the top of
Napoleon, and a fountain with a statue of I
this hill he amused his leisure hours by
;
Neptune. The town has a school of de- breaking the stones and rocks which sur-
sign, and a public library containing 10,000 rounded his dwelling, and planting among
volumes. The Hospital of St. Laurent, them some vine-slips of the Vionnier spe-
which is situated on an island in the Saone, cies from Condriou. The Shiraz was aft-
is an admirably managed institution, as erward introduced. It succeeded to admi-
well as that of St. Louis. The town also |
ration the hermit's example was copied
;
possesses a theatre, public baths, and col- by others, and the sterile hill -side was
j
and linen, and exports a large quantit}' of 300 acres, wliich produces the celebrated
j
wine, timber, and charcoal. The famous white and red wines known as the Hermit-
Abelard died here in 1142; he was burled afje. The real Hermitage will not keep
at the Abbey of St. IMarcel, but was after- ; more than 20 years without altering; that
ward removed to the Paraclete. Steamers of the first class is not bottled for 4 or 5
go down the Saone to Lyons daily in five years it is generally sold at that age for
;
or six hours. i
exportation its average price on the spot
;
born at Montelimar. Hutel Poste. towers. Among its chief edifices are, the
j
Ora»<7e.— Population, 10,622. Ht.tel de cathedral of Xotre Dame des Boms, which
la Paste. This town occupies the site of contains the tomb of Pope Jean XXII.
the ancient Arausio, lying about three also, a statue of the Virgin by Pradier, in
\
miles east of the river Rhone, and is very one of the chapels the Church of the Cor- ;
rich in Roman antiquities. Chief among deliers, in which Petrarch's Laura was
these is the theatre, which stands at the buried, the Ifutel des Invalides, a theatre
foot of a hill in whose side semicircular recently built, and the Hotel Crillon.
ranges of scats were excavated the wail There are manv Roman ruins, and the re-
; I
4G8
Vaucluse. [FRANCE.] Aix.
mains of a magnificent bridge built by the The town inclosed with old walls.
is Its
popes. Avignon has many important sci- streets arenarrow and intricate, and houses
entific and literary establishment's, a bo- mostly old and mean but it has some spa-
;
tanic garden, and museum of antiquities. cious quays and several good squares.
It is the centre of the madder districts of On the Place Royale is a handsome town-
France, the cultivation of which is very hall, also the Cathedral of St. Trophimus.
general. It contains foundries, forges, This saint was said to have been a disciple
and numerous printing establishments. of St. Paul, and to have planted the first
The museum contains many objects of cross in Gaul. The cathedral contains
great interest to the antiquarian. In the I
some very good statuary. Near the am-
picture-gallery, where there are a number phitheatre is an ancient theatre, in which
of very fine paintings, there is a bust of \ was discovered the celebrated "Venus of
Horace Vernet, the great marine painter, Aries," now in the museum of the Louvre.
iiy Thorwaldsen. The library has nearly Aries is the entrepot for goods passing
60,000 volumes. The Palace of the Popes from Marseilles and Lyons. It is also
is rich in historical associations. Here noted for being the birthplace of Constan-
"the redeemer of bright centuries of tine the Younger, and the seat of many
shame," the immortal tribune Rienzi, was celebrated councils. The most important
confined a prisoner, chained in a vault in was held in 314, at which the Donatists
the dungeon, until liberated through the A\;re condemned.
intercession of his friend Petrarch the 1 he Town Museum is filledwith antiqui-
poet, who was entertained here as a guest. ties and relics founrl in or around Aries.
From Avignon an interesting excursion At
may be made to Rognac, 64 minutes from Aries (branch
Vaucluse, to visit the haunts of Petrarch, line toAix en Provence, 63 m., and Grenoble,
the site of whose house between the village 9 h. 40 m. from Aix, 33 f, 15 c.
and the castle is now occupied l)y a paper Aix en Provence, 28,000 inhabitants,
manufactory. The poet first visited Vau- situated in the midst of almond-groves
cluse as a boy in 1313, and was so charmed and olive-trees, which furnish the sweet-
with its beauties that he returned again in oil for which the neighborhood is so fa-
1337, and remained sixteen years, during mous, is entered by a broad avenue called
the entire pontificate of Clement VI. the Coiirs ; this street is ornamented with
Soon after leaving Avignon we pass fountains, one of which, by David cT Angers,
Tarascon. a town of 12,451 inhabitants, represents King Rone holding up a bunch
whence a railway branches off to Nimes, of Muscat grapes, their cultivation having
Montpellier, and Cette. been introduced into France Iiy him. The
In addition to the church of St. Martha, old town of Aix was the ancient capital of
a Gothic building of the llth century, the Provence —
the scene of gay fetes and
town once possessed an old castle, begun tournaments, and the seat of art and liter-
in 1400, which is now used as a prison ature. The Cathedral of St. Saureur is a
til is was for some time the residence of fine Romanesque building of the 12th cent-
King Rene, and the scene of great festivi- ury, with a handsome cloister, remarkable
ties. for the great variety displayed in its col-
Arks, a river-port situated on the left umns. The Jfuseum, in addition to a
bank of the principal branch of the Rhone, mediocre collection of paintings, contains
contains about 26,637 inhabitants. Prin- a great numlier of antiquities, chiefly Ro-
cipal hotel, du Xord. This town is princi- man, such as bronzes, mosaics, inscriptions,
pally celebrated for its amphitheatre and sculptures, etc., found in the neighborhood.
other Roman antiquities. The former is A bathing establishment has been erected
459 feet long and 838 wide. It has five over a mineral source in the suburbs but ;
corridors and 43 rows of seats, and was the medicinal qualities of the waters are
capable of holding 25,000 people. It was so slight that they are generally taken as
excavated in 1830. In the middle of the ordinary warm baths.
8th centuiy it was used as a fortress by Aix to Lyons, in 14 h. 46 m. 48 fr. 5 c, ;
the Saracens, at the time they were ex- Mirabeaa is passed, with a ruined castle
pelled from tlie city by Charles Martel. situated on a height above the village,
469
Gap. [FRANCE.] Voiron.
ing the valley, enters a beautiful gorge, cupants having been swept awa}' by an
overshadowed b}- bold and rugged cliffs, avalanche, a building was erected on the
which leads to the valley of Le Giners ;
present site in the beginning of the 12th
this is also crossed before reaching St. century, during the lifetime of the fifth
Laurent. I
prior, Guignes. The order increased so
St. Laurent du Pont a village of some
is rapidly in power and influence that it pos-
1800 inhabitants, situated 1500 feet above '
road follows the Giners !Mort, and enters men of good birth, who make some dona-
'
at Fourvoirie, about a mile from St, Lau- tion on entering the convent the fr'eres,
I
;
rent, a narrow gorge, where the mountains or serving monks, are dressed in brown,
seem almost to close together above the 20 in number, and are employed in various
]
between the mountain and the river been of late vears somewhat relaxed for-
1
;
470
Vviiuos. [I'KANCE.J Marseilles.
merly the peres were not allowed to speak, I mountain buttress which projects forward
and remained in their cells, except on to the Isere. This is covered with fortifi-
Sundays and fete days, when they dined cations, whose guns are enabled from their
together as now, but always in silence. I
position to sweep the valleys of the Drac
In the present day, however, they are al- and the Isere. They rise one above the
lowed to walk about together in the mount- .
other to the height of 918 feet, and occupied
ain on Thursdays, when they may also ten years in their construction. The crown-
answer if addressed by strangers. Male j
ing fortress is called the Bastille, from the
visitors are received by one of the fathers remains of an old feudal castle inclo.-ed
[
(the Vhrc Procureur), who is aljsolved from ! within its works. At the base of the rock
the vow of perpetual silence. By him thev stands the suburb of St. Laurent, separated
are conducted to the chapel, a plain hall, bv the river from Grenoble.
where services are performed night and j
itors (male) are lodged in the convent for fare, 1-i fr, 9U c. ;
—
from Marseilles, via
a small sum, and female visitors find rooms Aix en Provence, in 11 h. 5 m. fare, ;
d'entrer dans notre enceinte ; car nous Sa- nacle of the 15th century. Visit the church
vons que ni le sage, ni le prophete, ni le of St. Andre to see the monument of Bny.
juge, ni I'hote de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni ard, brought from the church of the
!
Mi-
mome le premier modele sortide ses mains, nimes. St. Andre was formerly the chapel
n'ont pu cohapper aux caresses ou aux of the dauphins, but their monuments have
tromperies des femmes. Qu'on se rappelle all disappeared. Below the church of St.
Salomon, David, Samson, Loth, ct coux Laurent an ancient crypt may be seen with
I
qui ont pris les femmes qu'ils avoient choi- 28 marble piers, dating from the 6th ccnt-
i
sies, et Adam lui-meme; et qu'on sache urv. The staple manufacture of Grenoble
bien que I'homme ne peut cacher du feu is "that of leather gloves, in which between
dans son sein sans que ses vetemens soient 14,000 and 15,000 persons, mostly women,
cmbrases, ni marcher sur des charbons ar- are employed in and about the town. As
dents sans se bruler la plante des pieds." many as six million pairs, valued at 62,-
Guides and mules may be procured at 500,000, are made here annually. The
the convent for making the ascension of best kid skins of which they are made
the Grandso7n, the highest of the neighbor- come from Annonay.
ing peaks (6470 feet). An excursion may be made from Gre-
Returning to the railway and continu- noble to the Chateau Bayard, the birth-
ing on our route, we approach the town of place of the Chevalier sans pen r et sans re-
Grenoble, which is hidden from view bv a proche, the SaUtte, and Graiv Ghgiers.
471
Marseilles. [FRANCS.] Marseilles.
Rognac, whence the line to Gap branches colon}'. Marseilles suffered severely from
off, isbut forty minutes by rail from the ravages of the plague in 1720. Over
Marseilles^ the commercial capital of one half of the population of the town was
France, and for a long time possessed of swept away. The scourge lasted the whole
the most important share in the commerce summer. It was from here St. Louis sail-
of the Mediterranean. Its quays are very ed with an immense fleet of galleys all —
magnificent, and its harbor is always crowd- —
of which Marseilles furnished on the cru-
ed with the shipping of Southern nations. sade. Marseilles has been the birthplace
It contains a population of 318,868 souls.
of several ver}'- celebrated persons, among
Principal hotels, Grand Hotel du Louvre whom are M. Thiers, historian and ex-
et de I Paix and Grand Hotel de Xoailles.
J,
premier, son of a blacksmith ; the astron-
The Grand Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix is omer Pytheas, the preacher Mascaron, and
a magnificent first-class house, on the Rue the sculptor Puget. It was united to the
Noailles (cannehiere prolongee)^ with 250 crown of France by Louis XI. in 1481.
rooms and 20 salons, a beautiful covered The public garden of Marseilles is very
court, and southern exposure; well man- beautiful ;by no means fail to take a drive
aged by M. Neuschwander. The Grand or a walk to it. A new Museum has been
Hotel de Noailles, 24 Rue de Noailles, is erected, containing a collection of about
ranked among the first houses of Europe. 150 paintings, among which a Perugino,
It is well situated, magnificently appointed Rubens, Andrea del Sarto, and one or two
New and
j
tions is a large garden restaurant in the beautiful buildings were erected on every
establishment. side during the reign of the late emperor,
adding greatly to the attractions of the
citj-. The principal churches are *S^ Victor
and Xofre Dame de li Garde.
St. Victor the oldest church in the
is
fragments of sculpture, and a few Greek which innumeTable pilgrimages are made
j
\>
—
j
473
HyiRES. [FRANCE.] Nick.
young Bonaparte, for the first time in in fine grounds, and well managed by the
command, had an opportunity of display- proprietor, M. Gongoltz. The Prince of
ing his vast military genius in planning Wales Hotel is one of the finest hotels in
'
and directing the batteries on the heiKhts Europe, with every luxury and conven-
of Bregaillon, Evesca, and Lambert, which ience, carried on under the experienced
positions commanded all the forts held by [supervision of M. de la Blanchetais. Can-
the enemy. A few days after they opened nes is noted for the salubrity of its atmos-
their fire the British and Spanish fleets were phere, and is a favorite winter resort for
standing out to sea. In 1707 the English many who are in delicate health. In the
and Dutch fleets, and an A jstrian and Sar- summer the sea-bathing is very agreeable,
dinian army, bombarded the city, but '»vere beginning as early as April and lasting
compelled to retire. The Musee de la Ma- until the end of October. The church of
—
rine and the Botanical Garden the last is Xotre Dame de V Esperance is situated on
outside the town —are well worth a visit. the Mont Chevalier, at the base of which
Hy'eres isseven miles from Toulon. Ho- the old town lies. It is greatly revered
tel, Des A mbassadeurs. Hyeres is one of the b}' sailors, and is well filled with their vo-
warmest, most sheltered, and popular win- tive offerings. The ruins of an old square
ter resiliences in the south of France. It tower, erected in 1070 by the Abbot of I.e-
is situated three miles from the sea. and rins, adjoin the church. The scenery in
is surrounded by lovely orange-gardens, and around Cannes is delightful, and nu-
while the olive, vine, and palm-tree flour- merous excursions may be made, in car-
ish in abundance. Every comfort neces- riages or on foot. Voitures de place ai-e sta-
sary for the invalid may be found here. tioned on the Cours de la Marine and in
The Casino contains a club, news-rooms, the P^ie Frevas prices fixed hy a tariff.
;
numerous excursions, are plentiful and same from both points. From Mt. Chev-
cheap. alier, where are the remains of an ancient
The city of Nice is divided into three fort, a magnificent view is obtained. For
quarters, viz., the Old Town, the Harbor, particulars of the trip, see Index, " Differ-
and the Quardtr de la Croix. This last, ent Routes and Passes into Italy."
in which are situated the principal hotels j The railway is now opened from Nice to
and lodgings inhabited by foreigners, is so I
fr. 90 c.
pope of Rome, who came to reconcile Fran- |
Monaco should by all means be visited
cis I. of France with the Emperor Charles from Nice. The kingdom of Monaco is
V. of Germany. Immediately opposite the oldest and smallest in the world. For
this stands a monument to commemorate its age. the present prince is a descendant
the visits of Pope Pius VII. in 18(i9 and of the Grimaldi. of the t<Hth century, who
1814. Here are situated the Public Garden drove the Saracens from his dominions.
and the Promenade Anglais, a very beauti- For its size, you can to-day shoot an arrow
ful promenade facing the sea, where for I
over it in any direction yet it possesses a
;
three hours every afternoon mav be seen | palace, ships, a harbor, a newspaper, a pa-
Vox. I- X 2 475
Monaco. [FRANCE.] Aiv-t.es-Bains
temperature being the same during the win- Jean de Maurienne, and Modane. Time, hy
ter as the months of June and July in Paris. irail to Geneva, 11 h. 42 m. fare, 77. fr. 5 c.
;
The Casino is open during the entire year, Time to Turin, 18 h. 24 m. ; fare, 100 fr. 20 c.
with play -rooms, ball-rooms, dancing- From Paris to Macon, see Route No. 124.
rooms, and raading-rooms, with daily con-, Bourg contains 13,733 inhabitants, and
certs. Pigeon - shooting in January, and is the chief town in the Departement de
races at Nice under the company's man- I'Ain. Hotel del Eur<j)€. Possessing nei-
agement. ther trade nor manufactures, it has but one
Mentone, with about 10,000 inhabitants, object of interest, the church of Xofre Dame
is some Ih miles from Nice. Hotel: the de Brou, just outside the town, constructed
A ational, a magnificent new house, near the between 1505 and 1536 by Margaret of
station, and commanding a most glorious Austria, governor of the Netherlands. This
view. This town, noted for the purity of building, preserved from destruction dur-
its atmosphere, is attracting much attention ing the Revolution by the precautions of
as a winter residence. The town is divided the inhabitants, who filled it with hay, is
into two quarters by a projecting promon- built in the latest Gothic style, verging
tory, on the summit of which stands an old into the Renaissance within are some su-
;
Genoese fort. The hill, which bears the re- perb monuments, of which perhaps the
mains of an old castle, is now used as a pub- finest is that of Philibert le Beau, Duke of
lic cemetery. The Casino is an elegant Savoy, husband of the founder, Margaret
building, situated in the centre of the town, of Austria. On one side of him is the mon-
and containing ball, concert, and reading ument of his mother, Margaret de Bour-
rooms. Balls and concerts are given fre- bon, Duchess of Savoy, while on the other
quentlv during the season, the price of ad- is that of Margaret herself, Avhose motto,
mittance for that period being 60 fr. —
Two '^Fortune in fortune—foiie une,''"' is to be
miles from Mentone by rail is Ventimiglia, seen inscribed on different parts of the
the first Italian town, where baggage is building. These tombs are all of white
examined. Very good Buffet-restaurant marble, executed by Conrad and Thomas
plenty of time for table d'hote breakfast Meyt, artists of Dijon. From Bourg the
or dinner. Hence to Genoa, see Boute 213 railway keeps near the base of the Jura,
and p. 742. and after passing Pont d'Ain, a town of
1406 inhabitants, crosses the Ain bj' a six-
arched bridge, and reaches
Amberieu. (For route from here to
Geneva, see Route No. 123.)
Aix-les- Bains. — Population, 4000. Prin-
cipal hotel, Hotel de V Europe, well man-
476
CHAMBERY [FRANCE.] MODANE.
aged, and situated close to the Casino. an immense fortune in the service of the
This celebrated watering-place, the Agnai Rajah of Scinde, India, all of which he be-
Gratinse of the Romans, is greatly resorted queathed to the town.
to for its sulphureous springs, which are The supposed winding-sheet of the Sav-
particularly efficacious in cases of rheuma- iour, now at Turin, was deposited in the
tism and neuralgia, as well as for skin castle ofChambery for a long time, to see
diseases. The temperature of the waters which many noted pilgrims resorted thith-
varies from 100^ to 117^ Fahrenheit. They er, among whom was Francis I. of France.
are chiefly employed for batlis, the douche The town is dull, and has but little to see.
liath being the one most in use. The Bath" There is a cathedral, public library, col-
house is a handsome building, erected by a lege, and theatre.
former king of Sardinia. Tlie hot water A short distance from the town is the
is here introduced in a manner to fall in villa Les Charmette, where resided for a
streams from a height of eight or ten feet time Madame de Varens and J. Jacques
upon the patient after the douching proc-
;
Rousseau. Madame de Varens was buried
ess he is thoroughly rubbed by attend- in the church of Lemanc. See here the
ants, then wrapped in a blanket, sent home tomb of General de Boigne. Travelers
in a sedan-chair, and then put to bed. generally stop here to break the voyage
The town contains some Roman antiqui- between France and Italy.
ties,such as a Triumphal Arch, a portion
cf an Tonic temple dedicated to Diana, and Montmelian (Jlotel des Voyageiirs). The
some remains of the Roman baths. The castle of Montmelian was long the bul-
Casino contains reading, ball, and concert wark of Savoy against France. It was
rooms, and tine grounds. An elegant new nobly defended by GoefFroy Bens de Ca-
theatre (with a fine restaurant) was at- vour against Louis XIII., but subsequent-
tached to it in 1882. ly destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1705. A
The Casino Villa des Fleurs was opened very good white wine is produced here.
in 1880 nearer to the station, and connect-
; In crossing the bridge over the Isere a fine
ed witli the grounds of the Hotel de V Eu- view may be obtained of Mont Blanc, the
rope. It is an attractive and well-mounted only point on this route from which it may
establishment dramatic performances and
; be seen. The next station is St. Pierre
concerts are daily given in its theatre; the d'Albigny.
restaurant is one of the best in the south of Ait/uebelle (Hotel Poste). Most of the in-
France. habitants here are afiiicted with the goitre,
An excursion should be made to the the situation of Aiguebelle being remarka-
monastery of IIaute-Com,be, a former bur- bly unhealthy on account of the marshes.
ial-place of the house of Savoy. The Castle La Charbonniere was the birth-
Aix-les-Bains to Geneva., in 3 h. 38 m. place of several of the counts of Savoy.
(bad connection, 1 h. 33 m. from Culoz); Crossing the River Arc we come to the
fare, 9 fr. 90 c. —
to Grenoble., see Gre-
; stations of La Ckambre St. Julien, where
noble ; to Lyons, via Culoz and Amberieu, excellent wine is produced, and St. Jean de
in 4 h. 54 m. ;fare, 15 fr. 35 c.; to Paris, Maurienne {Hotel de V Europe). Popula-
in 12 h. 6 m. fare, 70 fr. 75 c. ;— io An-
; tion, 3000. The cathedral here is the only
necy, in 1 h. 22 m. fare, 4 fr. 95 c.
; object worth the traveler's attention.
Chambery. Population, 20,000. Hotels, St. Michel {Hotel de la Poste), railway
de VEurojte and des Princes. This town restaurant. From St. Michel the railway
is noted for the manufacture of silk gauze begins to ascend, taking its course through
and various other fabrics. The remains a beautiful gorge, and crossing the Arc on
of the ancient castle of the princes of the iron bridge of La Denise, reaches
Savoy, ancestors of Victor Emanuel, may Jfodaiie,during which time it rises 1128
still be seen. The castle was erected in feet, or about 110 feet a mile. Hotel Lion
1230, and is now being repaired. Con- dVr. This town (population, 1500) is the
tiguous to the promenade, which leads to terminus of the Italian railway the custom-
;
the town, may be seen the monumental house here awaits the traveler. F rom here to
fountain erected in honor of General de Turin the railway time is that of Rome, 47
Boigne, a native of Chambery, wlio made minutes faster than Paris time.
Dole. [FRANCE.] PONTAELIER.
3 h. 27 m. fare, 12 fr. 90 c.
; (Route 16,
Vol. III., for all these: also Route 44, Vol.
III., for Berne).
crosses the river on a lofty viaduct, and ble to speak any language but Italian.
I
picture-gallery and library, and surrounded statue (Vjy Rochet), dressed in the costume
by very fine grounds. Here the confer- of a pupil of the militar}'- school, was erect-
ence took place, in September, 1870, be- ed in 1848, and stands in front of the Mai-
tween Jules Favre and Bismarck relative ne.
to the preliminaries of peace. Bnr-sur-Aube is passed before we reach
Nogent-sur-Seine is a town of 3641 in- Ciairvaux. —
Here formerly stood the
habitants, situated on the Seine, which celebrated Ahhaye de Ciairvaux, founded
here becomes navigable. About four miles by St. Bernard when but 24 j'ears of age.
beyond the town, in the valley of Ardusson, The building is now used as a prison (Mai-
formerly stood the celebrated abbey of son Centrale de Detention).
Paraclete, whose site is now occupied by Chaumont is a dull town of 8600 inhab-
an iron -forge. This abbey was founded itants, containing little of interest. There
by Abelard in 1123, was afterward the re- is a species of Triumphal Arch, begun by
treat of Heloise, and became finally the Napoleon I. and finished In* Louis XVIII.
resting-place of both. During the Revo- also an old tower, the only remaining por-
lution the abbey was sold, and the sarcoph- tion of the once powerful castle of Haute-
agus containing their remains was re- Feuilles, belonging to the counts of Cham-
moved, first to Nogent, and afterward where pagne. Hotel Ecu de France.
it now reposes, in the cemetery of Pere-la- Langres is situated on the summit of a
Chaise. hill overlooking the ^larne. Population,
Troyes is a pleasant town, situated on the 8320. Hotel de V Europe. This town oc-
Seine, whose waters are conducted through cupies an important military position, com-
the town b}' means of canals. Population, manding the passage from the valle}' of
85,676. llutel des Courriers and Hotel St. the Saone into that of the Seine, and has
Laurent. consequently been made into a first-class
The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul fortress. Its citadel was erected under
is a fine building, with a choir dating from Louis Philippe, and four detached forts
the 13th century it contains some beau-
; were begun during the reign of Napoleon
tiful stained glass of the 13th and 14th III. In addition to a fine cathedral (St.
centuries. Before the high -altar of this Mammes). the town contains some few Ro-
church Henry V. of England was affianced man remains it is mentioned by Ca?sar as
:
to the Princess Catharine :May 20, 1420, the capital of the Lingones. The finest
and on the following day the treaty of species of cutlery is produced here and
Troyes was signed, by which the English throughout the department, the greater
sovereign was made heir to Charles VI., a portion being manufactured at Xogei-le-
treaty full of disaster to both countries. Roi, six miles distant.
The marriage of the king and princess took From La Ferte Bourhonne station dili^
place in the church of St. Jean, a building gences run to Bonrhonne-les-Bains, a small
of the 14tli and 15th centuries, now in a watering-place of 4057 inhabitants, fre-
rather dilapidated condition. In addition quented for its hot saline springs, effica-
to several other ancient churches, the town cious in scrofulous affections, rheumatism,
contains a museum and public librar}^ with and paralysis. The temperature of the wa-
100,000 volumes and 2000 MSS. these in-
; tersis about 138° Fahr. Hotel, La Maison
clude part of the library of the Abbey of Bauvain.
Ciairvaux. Vesoul. — Population, 7614. J/atel de la
From Jessains, four stations fiirther Ciqogne. This town is picturosquclv situ-
479
Belfort. [FRANCE.] Meaux.
ated at the confluence of the Durgeon and left to its own
devices, held out a short
Columbine rivers, and is the capital of the time longer, but finally capitulated on the
Departement de la Haute-Saone. It con- 16th of February with all the honors of
tains a town-hall and college, but possesses war.
no buildings with any great claim to archi- From Belfort the railway crosses the
tectural beauties. frontier, and passes Delle (shortest way),
A branch railway runs from here to Be- or by
san^on, giving communication with Lj'ous, Mulhouse^ or Midhausen^ as it is now
via Lons-le-Saulnier and Bours. called. Population, 58,773. Hotel Ramann.
^e//or/. —
Population, 8400. Hotel de This is one of the most important manu-
VAncienne Poste. Here is the French facturing towns of Alsace, and is situated
frontier custom-house, where the baggage on the banks of the 111, in the midst of a
and passports are examined. This is a vast plain which stretches from the Yosges
first-class fortress, commanding the passage to the Rhine. The cotton prints and mus-
between the Yosges and the Jura, defend- lins manufactured here are unequaled in
ing the entrance from Switzerland into quality or quantity by those of any place
France and, since the change made in the
; in France. They are remarkable for the
boundary -line by the Treaty of Frankfort, fineness of their colors and the variety and
defending the entrance from German}^ as perfection of their patterns. Mulhouse
well. It consists of the toicn, lying between also possesses extensive machinery manu-
the hills of La Justice and La Miotte and factories.
the left bank of the Savoureuse the cita- ; Basle is reached in 45 minutes from Mul-
del to the southeast, overlooking the town ;
house (see Index).
and of the fauhourgs de Montbeliard, de
France, des Ancetres, and de Brisach. Be-
tween the hills of La Miotte and La Jus-
tice lies an intrenched camp capable of
holding 20,000 men, and defended on the
eastern side by two forts, named after the
contiguous hills.
This fortress sustained a protracted
siege during the Franco-Prussian war of
1870. It was first undertaken in Xovem-
ber by the German Landwehr under Tres-
ckow, but upon the advance of Bourbaki to
its relief the Germans were reinforced by
the army corps of Yon ^Yerden. Three
desperate but unsuccessful attempts were
—
made by Bourbaki^ January 15, 16, 17
to force the line of the besiegers, who were
again strengthened by the arrival of a
force under General ManteufFel. In the
mean time negotiations for a truce were go-
ing on at Yersailles this, however, when
;
latter then retired to Besan^on, and, after Paris to Strasburg, via IJeaiix, Epcrnay.
resigning his command, attempted to com- Chalons, Bar-le-Duc, Toul, Nancy, Lune-
mit suicide. His army of 85,000 men fell ville and Sarrebourg, by rail. Time, 11 h.
back to Pontarlier, and, after signing a con- 8 m. ; fare, 61 fr. 35 c.
vention with the Swiss government, crossed Meaux
is a town of 11,343 inhabitants,
the frontier and were disarmed. Belfort, 25 miles from Paris, beautifully situated
480
Chateau Thierry. [FRANCE.]
on the Marne. Hotels, Palais Royal and moment, and then gave up all that was re-
Grignon. It possesses a tribunal of com- quired of him in order to prolong his stay,
merce, also a commercial college, with a li- getting drunk on Champagne daily before
brary of i;!, 000 volumes. This town was dinner.
taken by the En^dish in 1520, after a siege " It is said that Francis I. of France,
of live months its Cathedral of ,'St. Elienne
: Pope Leo X., Charles V. of Spain, and
is a magniticent Gothic ediHce, containing Henry VIII. of England, had each of them
a monnment of Bossuet, who was bishop a vineyard at Ay, their own property, and
of Meau.x, also that of Philip of Castile. on each vineyard a small house occupied
Meaux carries on a large trade in grain by a superintendent. Thus the genuine
and cheese. article was secured by each sovereign for
Chateau Thierry, a pleasant town of Gul9 his own table. If this be true, it shows
inhabitants, was named from the vast cas- pretty accurately the length of time that
tle, built on a hill, by the celebrated Charles Champagne wine has been in esteem. The
Martel, in 720, for King Thierry IV. it is
: vineyards on the banks of the Marne are
the birthplace of the poet Jean de la Fon- those which possess the highest character,
taine, born 1621 in the public walk there producing most of the wine known by the
;
is a very tine marble statue erected to his general term of Champagne in other coun-
memory. The Russians were kept a long tries. The Avines are divided into those
time in check here, in 1814, in attempting of the river and the mountain, the former
to cross the bridge. being for the most part ^vhite. In a cli-
Epernay contains a population of 12,930 mate so far nortii, these and other French
inhabitants : it was formerly a fortified wines bear remarkable evidences of human
city: Uvtel de VKurojie. The town is kept industry. In the south Nature does ev-
neat and clean it is the principal entrepot ery thing, and man is idle.
: In the north
for Champagne wines, which are kept bot- man is the diligent cultivator, and he is re-
tled in curious vaults excavated in the warded in the deserved superiority of liis
sandstone on which the town is built produce, and the estimation it justly hdd.-.
they contain many millions of bottles. "Champagne wines are farther divided
As wc are a Champagne-
esi^cntialh- into sparkling (mousseux), d( mi-sp;.rkling
drinking people, it will be well to devote (demi-mousseux), and still wii.es (non
a few pages descriptive of the diflferent mousseux). Some are white or .--traw-col-
brands of Champagne, their price, and or. others gray, others rose-c( li.r, and some
manner of prejKtration, which we quote red. Thev are of a light quality in spirit,
from Redding on Wines, the best author- the averaiic of alcohol in Champagne w ine
ity: in general, according to Mr. Brande, being
" In 1328 Rheims wine bore a price of but 12.61 per cent.
10 livres only, while Beaune brought 28. "The entire quantity of wine made in
In 1559, at the coronation of Francis II., Chamjjagne, of all kinds, varies with the
Rheims wines were dearer than Burgundy ;
season, but the average may be taken at
but the wines of the Lyonnais carried a 1,560,687 hectolitres, or 40,968,033 gallon.^
still higher price. In 1561 these wines had from 55,540 hectares, or 138,870 acre.>^, of
risen in price. In 1571 there were nearly vines. The department of the Marne is
eight times increased beyond their former that in which the most famous of these
value. Champagne reached its present per- wines are made. There are 19,066 hec-
fection and estimation about 1610, at the tares of land devoted to the vine in the de-
coronation of Louis XIII. The oldest an- partment, though some say above 20,000,
ecdote which the French possess relative and of this numlier 110 are situated in the
to the excellence of Rheims wine dates arrondissement of Chalons-sur-Mame, 685G
as far back as 1397, when Vincesilaus, in that of Epernay, 425 in that of St. Mene-
king of Bohemia and the Romans, on com- hould, 9029 in tliat of Rheims, and 2646 in
ing to France to negotiate a treaty with that of Vitry sur ^Marne. The quantity
Charles VI., arrived at Rheims, and hav- of wine made in the whole department,
ing tasted the wine of Champagne, it is to 422,487 hectolitres, and the value about
be presumed for the first time, spun out his 11,235,397 francs. Of this sum, nearly
diplomatic errand to the longest possible four fifths in value are made in the arron-
481
Epkrnay. [FRANCE.] Epernay.
hectare gives from 'IS to 30 hectolitres. such Avine always carries the best price.
The produce has increased of late years, When the glass is entirely fdled Avith froth,
from the improved mode of cultivation. on pouring out the contents of the 1 ottle,
The quantity exported from the depart- . the better qualities of the Avine and spirit
ment is the best kind, and amounts to evaporate. The quantity of spirit in Cham-
about 103,043 hectolitres annually; the I
pagne, as we haA-e seen, is but i-mall, and
residue is distilled or consumed by the in- I
the residue is a flat, m.eagre fluid.
habitants. The best red wines are sold in '
trary, Avhich, as all judges of the Avine al- of Champagne, the peculiar aroma,' Avhich
'
" The vintage of 1832 gave 4^0,000 hec- the general divisions of river and mountain
;
tolitres, viz., 50,000 in Avhite sparkling Avines, which are of some antiquity in char-
or 310,000 common red, of middling
still, acterizing the AA'ines of this part of France,
quality, and 120,000 choice red. The French farther divide this district or
"The annual consumption of Cham- vine-ground of Rheims into four general
pagne Avine in France was estimated at divisions, namely, the river-vineyard dis-
(320,000 bottles in 1836, but the quantity trict,that of the mountain of Rheims, that
was thought to be on the decline. The of the estate of St. Thierry, and that of the
export Avas then reported to be, to En- Aalleys of Xorrois and Tardenois. There
gland and the East Indies, 467,000 bottles, are, moreoA'er, one or tAvo other spots which
Germanv 479,000, United States of Amer- do not come into these divisions one of ;
ica 400,000, Russia 280,000, and SAveden them is on the side of a hill, northeast of
r.nd Denmark 80,000. j
Rheims.
" The mean price inarrondisse-
the I "The river district is situated on a cal-
ments of Chalons, St. Menehould, and Yit- !
careous decliA'ity, open to the f outh, at the
ry, Avhich are inferior kinds, is about 10 j
foot of Avhich runs the Marne, from Bis-
francs the hectolitre ; those of Vitry bring j
seuil to the borders of the department of
20 francs, St. Menehould 15, and Chalons ;
the Aisne. The chalk abounds here, min-
i.bout 12. ;
gled Avith stones in the uppermost soil.
"Though in England most people im- The vines are as closely planted as possi-
derstand by Champagne only wine that ef- I
ble. On this declivitA' comes first in or-
110. These are the districts which pro- The red wines of Bouzy approach in hour
duce Champagne wines of the very lirst quet tho wines of liurgundv.
l)est
the mixing grapes of different (qualities in the wine was also styled Vin di la Mare-
making these wines. This wine resem- chale. Very little is now produced in the
bles that of the hilly district of Rheims in commune of Sillery, whicli covers a con-
lightness and delicacy, but will not keep i
siderable space of ground. The grape is
to so great an age. In warm seasons it ,
subjected, for making this wine, to a less
reaches maturity the first year. Formerlv !
pressure than for a red wine, and it is kept
•white wine made at Hautvilliers rivaled longer in wood than the other sorts gener-
that of Ay, but of late the manufacture ally are, or about three years. The quan-
has ceased, in consequence of the division tity made difters every year, according to
of the property on which the wines were the orders received for it. It is chiefly
produced, the greater part of the vine-lands manufactured for wine-merchants who buy
which grew the finest qualities having got the proper grape from the ]iroprietor3 of
into the hands of wine-makers who have the vineyards in proportion to the demand
changed the quality of the wine. All the made on them ivv export. It is, i)erhaps,
other wines of the river are common, and the most durable, as well as the most
fetch in the market, on the average, only wholesome to drink, of all the wines of
froni 25 to 40 francs. Champagne, the fermentation being more
'•
The mountain or hilly district of perfect than that of any other species.
Rheims is at the l)ack of the preceding ac- "The second class of wines is generally
clivity, and its slope is much less steep valued at 50 francs, while there are oth'
than that toward the river. The soil is ers, such as those of Ville Dommange,
of the same calcareous description. The which are only w orth from 25 to 30 francs
prices,however, differ with the reputation the hectolitre on the spot. They are made
of the vineyards. The aspect is east and from the vineyards of Ambonnay, Ludes,
north. The first vine-lands are those of Chigny, Rilly, Villers-Allcrand. and Trois-
Bouzy and Ambonnay, producing 2100 Puits, and in quantity produce about 9403
hec-
tolitres, either of red or white wine at hectolitres. These wines are some of them
pleasure, at about 150 francs the hectolitre. of tolerable quality, and are mostly sold
Next come the vineyards of Verzenay, Sil- to foreigners. Tlie rest of the wines of
lery, Mailly, and Verzy, producing 2832 the mountain district are ordinary wines,
hectolitres of the same kind of wines, at bringing only from 30 to 40 francs tho
130 francs. It is here that the best red hectolitre, and some only 15 and 20.
wines of Champagne are produced. They " The third Champagne district, or that
have good body, ar." spirituous, fine, and of St. Thierry, produces G592 hectolitres
keep their qualities to an advanced ag\ of delicate wines, bearing prices from 30
483
Epernat. [FRANCE.] Epernat.
to GO francs, and some ordinarj sorts as ! and white, are which are
inferior to those
low as 20, I
made on the lands of Rheims. The best
" The fourth district, namely, the valley red wines of Eperna}^ are those of Mardeu-
of Xorrois and Tardenois, as -well as that il, at the gates of Epernay, those of Dam-
of the hill-side near Rheims, produces only ery, Vertus, Monthelon, Cuis, Mancy, Cha-
common red wines, the bulk of which sell vost, Moussy, Yinay, and Martin d'Ab-
St.
from 25 to 30 francs the hectolitre. : lois. They fetch only middling prices,
" In all the distinguished vineyards of from 40 to 60 f. the hectolitre. The wines
Champagne, as, for example, in the river of Fleury, Yenteuil, Yauciennes, and Bour-
district of Ay, Mareuil, Dizy, Hautvilliers, sault, on the Marne, are only to be classed
land Cumieres and at Bouzy, Yerzy, Yerz-
: as ordinary wines of the district. Those
enaV; Mailly. in the mountain, as well as in of GLuilly, Mareuil le Port, Leuvrigny,
many other of the vine-lands, they culti- '
probably of the same species, especially kinds. YarA ing from 150 t to 20 f. the dif-,
as an ordinance of the Louvre, of the date ference in the wines may be easily conjec-
of 1394, places the Pinoz, as then called, 1
tured.
above all the common species of vine. "At Epernay, where the black grape is
The product of the Avhite grape produces a most cultivated, there are lands which pro-
very inferior Avine to that from the forego- duce Avine approaching that of Ay in deli-
ing fruit. It seems at first singular that cacj, in the abundance of saccharine prin-
the blackest grape should produce wine of ciple, and in tlie fragrance of the bouquet.
the purest white color, or straw, but such Though customarily arranged after the
is nevertheless the fact. The price of the wine of Pierrj', it may fairly be classed on
vine-lands differ much. It is greatly sub- an equalitj'. The Avines from the white
divided, there are vineyards not exceed- grape of Cramant, Avize, Oger, and Me-
ing the tenth of an arpent in size. Some nil are characterized b}' their sweetness
productive land vrill not bring £40 per and by the lightness
liveliness, as Avell as
acre, English, on sale, while spots have of their effervescence. To a still class,
been known to sell for £800, Avhich have put into bottles Avhen about ten or eleA-en
yielded 750 bottles to the acre. The ex- months old, they giA-e the name of piisan-
pense of cultivation at Ay, a small town on nes of Champagne, much recommended by
the right bank of the Marne, a little above physicians as aperient and diuretic. The
Epernay, remarkable for the delicacy of grounds of Chouilly, Cuis, IMousseA", Yi-
its wines, is from 600 f. to 900 f. per hec- nay, St. Martin d'Ablois, and GrauA-e, as
tare. The selling price of vineyards av- well as those of Monthelon, Mancy, and
erages 5000 francs the highest has been
;
Molins, produce wine used in the fabrica-
24.000 the lowest 2500. These wines are
;
tion of sparkling Champagne, being lit for
grown in a southern exposure, upon a that purpose alone.
range of chalk hills, on the mid elevation " It is proper to explain that the Avine is
of which the best wines are produced. put into casks of 100 and 80 litres each.
The numljer of wine proprietors in the ar- But white Avines of Champagne are not in-
rondissement of Rheims is 11,903 for the
; tended for consumption at these prices in
whole department they are not less than the piece it is only to be miderstood of
;
22,500. The produce may average in the such Avines as are thus preserA'ed by the
districts most noted from 440 to 540 gal- merchants at Epernay and Rheims, Avhen,
lons, English, per acre, some producing during the A'intage, or for three months
660. But it is well known that certain after, they wish to hold the stock of the
spots in this department have given 1000 groAvers, Avhich not conA'enient at the
it is
trouble of bottling. Thus they are ena- ing against the foregoing prices. These
bled to dispose of a small quantity- at once, wines are of a very inferior quality, and,
if demanded, and can still wait to tlie end being sweetened or seasoned with sugar
of the tirst year for ascertaining the whole and spirit, could oidy answer for instant
of their stock. They suffer the less by consumption. Such wines are neither
breakage, lealiage, and tilling up of the sound nor wholesome, and it is probable
bottles, and obtain a portion of the profits are the same that the advertising wine-
at once from the immediate sale of a part quacks of London puff off by advertise-
of their stock to the merchant. The price ments as the best Champagne. Those
of a bottle of Champagne paid by the con- who have any regard for their organs of
sumer, either in France or abroad, varies digestion should avoid them as poison, for,
more according to the scarcity or abun- though good Champagne is one of the
dance of the crop, and the agreement with wholesomest of wines, the bad is more than
the seller, than the difference of the qual- commonly pernicious,
ity at the place of growth. The following "Some of the more respectable growers
prices will give an idea of these variations : and merchants never keep any Champagne
"The wine of Pierry and Epernay, in a but the best quality, and never sell under
plentiful year, sells from 130 f. to ioO f. ;
3 f., let the season l)e as abundant as it
in a medium year from 180 f. to 200 f in .
;
'
may. These are the best persons of whom
a year of scarcity from 200 f. to 2.30 f. the to buy. They have always the finest
piece. stock, and, after encountering the first
"Those of Cramant, Avize, Oger, M6- year's loss by breakage, they have a cer-
nil, from 80 f. to 100 f., and from 100 f. to tain property in their cellars, which cov-
200 f. ers the return of bad seasons.
" Those of Chouilly from 60 f. to 150 f., " The best red wines of Epernay are fit
]
or 80 f. to 100 f.
" Sold in bottles by the grower to the still or effervescing, white, gray, or rose,
merchant in gross, the waste not replaced, whether solely of black or white grapes,
and bottles not filled up, 1 f. 25 c, 1 f. 50 c, or of both mingled, are generally in perfec-
2 f. to 2 f. 50 c. in medium years, 1 f. 30 c,
; tion the third year of bottling. The best
2 f., and 2 f. 50 c. in years of scarcity, 2 f.,
; wines, however, gain rather than lose in
2 f. 50 c. to 3 f. The'bottles filled and no .
delicacy for ten and even twenty years,
waste, in abundant years, 1 f. 50 c, 1 f. 75 c, i
and are often found good at the age of
2 f. 25 c, 2 f. 75 c. In years of average thirty or forty,
product, 1 f. 75 c, 2 f. 25 c., 2 f. 75 c. In " It will not now be amiss to give a cur-
years of scarcity, 2 f. 25 c, 2 f. 75 c, 3 f. sory view of the mode in which the effer~
"In bottles sold by the merchant to the vescing wines of Champagne are made.
consumer, in years of abiindance, 2 f., 2 f. By this means some idea may be formed
50 c, 3 f. ;medium years, 3 f. 50 c. years
; [
of the care required in bringing them to
of scarcity, 3 f. 50 c, 4 f. 50 c, G f. From a perfection, which has aided in placing
of. to 3 f. 50 cw is the average for good them beyond all rivalry.
quality. Some classthe qualities the
: I "The vine-crop designed for the manu-
Jir.'it, from 3 f. to 4 f. the second, from 2 f.
; i
facture of white Champagne is gathere*
50 c. to 3 f. the third, from 2 f. to 2 f. 50 c.
; with the greatest care possible, Th«
grapes for the purest wines consist only of
|
r"s not common. England and her colonies those from an ajiproved species of vine
;^onsume this wine laru;cly. The annual Every gra])c which has not acquired a
exportation is about 2,69<i,000 bottles, with perfect maturity, every i-otten grape, or
an increasing demand, touched with the frost, or pricked, is re^
" In 1818 there were effervescing wines jected. In gathering or in emptying the
sold at from 1 f. 25 c. to 1 f. 50 c, after the 1 basket*, and in the carriage to the press,
485
fepERNAY. {TRANCE.] Eperxay.
every motion that can injure the fruit is taken to the under-ground cellar in April
a-v'oided, as well as the sun"s action. On or May. This is not the practice at Kheims
arriving at the press, the baskets, or -what- with the Sillery. It has been found there
ever the grapes are carried upon, are the most advantageous plan to bottle the
placed in a shade in a cool spot. When wine in the month of January, though at
the quantity is sufficient for a pressing, the risk of its imbibing the sparkling qual-
they are heaped, -with as little motion as ity. In this case, and forthwith after the
possible, on the press, and the bunches are first racking, which is called debourbuf/e,
deposit. When it begins to ferment it is pagne wine has been that it can not be ob-
xmmediateh' transferred to the cask. tained of a uniform quality. This is prin-
'•
Perhaps there are none of the produc- , cipally owing to its being put into small
tions of the soil that requu-e more care casks. The wine in every cask will not
than the grape, to make produce the de-
it be alike, as the minutest difference in the
licious -wines to perfection. In no country operation of preparing it for the market
is the art of making Avine so -well under- will alter the qualit}'. To remedy this
stood as in France, and being a commodity evil, so justly complained of, Mumm, Geis-
-which it is impossible to equal, except in a ler, & Co., at Rheims, provided tuns hold-
soil and temperature of exactly the same ing 12,000 litres each, which they import-
character, it is improbable that country will ed from the Palatinate, and they found it
be excelled tjy any other in her staple prod- a mode that fully obviated the evil. The
uct. An advantage of no slight moment strength of the bottles, and their unifonn
when compared to those of her manufac- thickness for the sparkling wines, are most
tures, which time may enable foreigners carefully ascertained. Every bottle with
to equal, and in many cases to surpass. an air-bubble in the glass, or with too long
The following is an account of the process or too narrow a neck, or with the least
of bottling, and the treatment of the wines —
malformation in short, with any thing
of Champagne before they are ready for which may be supposed to affect the pro-
the market. duction or retention of the effervescence,
"About Christmas, the vintage,
after is put by for the red wine. The bottles,
the fennontation being complete, the wine too, are jingled together in pairs, one
is racked. This is always done in diy against the other, and those which crack
weather, and. if possible, during frost. A ! or break are carried in account against the
month after it is racked a second time, and maker. I
fined with isinglass ; before it is bottled it " Some idea of the quantity of efterves-
i
undei'goes a third racking and a second cing wine made in the department of the
lining. There are some makers of wine Marne, in the arrondissement of Epernay
who onh' fine it once after the second rack- alone, is obtained from the fact that no
ing, and immediately bottle it, taking care less than 866,000 gallons have been manu-
that it has been well fined in the cask. factured in one year. A third was pur-
Others rack it twice, but fine it at each chased by the merchants of Rheims, and
racking. The best wines are alwaj^s able at least as much more has been made in
to bear three rackings and two finings, and one year in this last arrondissement.
;
In
the benefit of such repetitions is found of the month of ^Nlarch or April, after the
the utmost importance aftervs'ard in man- wine designed for effervescence is made,
aging the wine when bottled. it is put into bottles.
i
Some begin as early
*'The wine which is designed to effer- as February, at the risk of exposing the
I
vesce, and the ptimnnes and wines of the wine to failure, or the bottles to more ex-
third pressing, are racked and fined in tended breakage in case they succeed. Fif-
M'aich and April in the cellar, out of which teen per cent, is a common loss sometimes
I
;
^hich is designed to be still wine is not "The effervescence is owing to the car-
k)ttlcd at Epernav until autumn, and is bonic acid gas produced in the process of
:
486
Epernay. [FRANCE.] Eperxay.
principle be considerable, and the alcohol the bottles passes them by his right side
found in sufficient quantity to limit its de- to the principal operator, who sits on a
composition, the quality is good. The stool, having before him a little talde cov-
wines do not effervesce in uniform times. ered with sheet-lead, and not higher than
Some will do it after bein„' in bottle fifteen his knees. He takes the Ijottle, inspects
days, others will demand as many months. the allowance left between the wine and
One wine will require a change of temper- the place the cork will occupy, regulates
ature, and must be brought from the un- ''
der-ground cellar to another on the surface; introduces it into the bottle, and strikes it
a third will not exhibit the desired qual- forcibly two or three times with a wooden
ity until August. One kind, when pa- '
mallet, so smartly that it would almost be
tience exhausted, and the effervescence
is thought the bottle must be broken by the
eo long expected is given up, will give it violence of the blows; but fracture is rare
all of a sudden another wine, standing
; in the hands of an experienced workman,
until the following A'car without this ac- who has paid attention to placing his bottle
tion, must then be mingled with the prod- solidly, and resting it with a perfectly even
uct of a new vineyard which is known to pressure on the bottom.
abound in the effervejcing principle, such " The bottle thus corked is passed by
as that of the white grapes of Avize. The I
the right hand to anoth3r Avorkman, seat-
effervescence of the Champagne wine, con- ed in the same manner as tlie foregoing,
sidered in all its bearings, is most uncer- who crosses it with ])ack-tliread, very
tain and changeable, even in the hands strongly tied, and then hands it to a fourth,
of those best acquainted, through experi- i
who has a pincers and wire by him he ;
ence, with its management. The differ- wires it, twists it, and cuts the wire, and
ence of a spot of growth the mixture the ; ; !
gives it to a fifth, who places the bottles
proc?ss, more or less careful, in the ma- on their bottoms in the form of a regular
king the casking, and the preservation in
;
parallelogram, so that they can be counted
the wood the glass of the bottles the as-
; ; in a moment. The daily labor for a work-
pect of the cellars the numlter and direc-
;
shop is calculated at 80 casks of 200 litres
tion of the air-holes the greater or loss
; each, or a drawing of IGOO or 1700 bottles.
depth, and the soil in which the cellars are M. ]Moot, of Epernay, who deals in the bot-
situated, all have a varied, and often an tled wine, has constantly from three to four
inexplicable influence on the phenomena million bottles in store, and sometimes not
of effervescence. It will not be amiss to less than ten of his workshops arc in full
follow up the subject farther in its details, employ.
in order that the reader may judge of the j
"The cellars of M. Moot, at Epernay,
attention necessary in an operation, to a are in the limestone rock, and of immense
stranirer apparently the least important re- ext-^nt. The piles of bottles render it a
lation to the manufacture of this delicious laliyrinth. They rise to the height of six
wine. !
feet.
manner as in English bins, but are carried itself with furious rapidity, the wine is
to the height of five or six feet. This wasted in large quantities, and it is diffi-
they call in France to heap them (mettre cult to save any portion of it. Even that
en tas ou entreiller). Avhich is least deteriorated is of bad quali-
" The pile is very solid, and any of the ty. The piles, as before observed, are
bottles with their necks to the wall can be longitudinal, and are parallel to each other,
withdrawn at pleasure, hx which means with a very small space between each pile.
they can be examined to observe if they The daily breakage, before it reaches its
arc "up," as it is termed in England. If fullest extent, will be in one day perhaps
not they must be got into that state, let the five bottles, another ten, the next fifteen.
expense amount to what it may. A bottle Those piles which may have the smallest
drawn froni the heap to examine if it be number broken still fly day by da}- among
in a proper state isheld horizontally, when the mass, and scatter their contents upon
a deposition is observed, which the work- the sound bottles. Sometimes a fragment
men call the ffrijfe, or claw, from its branch- of a bottle is left which contains a good
ing appearance. The indications of a bot- proportion of its contents. In a short time
tle's breaking is the disappearance of the this becomes acid from fermentation, and
racancy below the cork before spoken of, finally putrid; during the continuance of
by the expansion of the carbonic acid gas. the breakage, the broken bottles which lie
It is generally in July and August that higher in the pile mingle their contents
this breakage happens, and that consider- with what is spoiled, resting in the frag-
able loss ensues. In ordinary' cases, in- ments beneath. The overflow runs to-
deed, from four to ten per cent, is the gether into gutters in the floor. When
amount. Sometimes, however, it amounts there are many of these accidents, the air
to thirty or forty per cent. It is very re- of the cellar becomes foul, and charged
markable, too, such is the imcertainty of with new principles of fermentation, which
the process, that of two piles in the same tend to increase the loss. Some merchants
part of the cellar, of the ver}' same wine, throw water over the piles of bottles two
not a bottle shall be left of one, while the or three times a Aveek during the period of
other remains without effervescence at all. breakage to correct the evil. The work-
A current of fresh air will frequently make men are obliged to enter the cellars with
the wine develop its effervescence furi- wire masks, to guard against the frag-
ously. The proprietor of the wines is ev- ments of glass when the breakage is fre-
ery year placed in the alternative of suf- quent, as in the month of August, when
fering great loss by breakage, or is put to the fragments are often projected with
great expense in making wine effervesce considerable force.
that will not naturally develop itself. Of "The breakage ceases in the month of
the two evils he prefers submitting to !
September, and in October they lift the '
488
Epernay. [FRANCE.] Eperxat.
loss must be replaced. In the other l)ot- of the white species, are all submitted to
tles there is observed a deposition which the operation of uncorking and clearing,
it is necessary to remove. For this latter at least once, before being sent out of the
purpose, the bottles are first placed in an maker's hands.
inclined position of about 25", and, without " The white wines of Champagne do not
removing them, a shake is given to each admit of being mixed with any l)ut those
twice or thrice a day, to detach the sedi- of their own growth. The wines of Ay
ment. Planks, having holes in them for are sometimes mixed with those of Cra-.
the necks of the bottles, are placed in the mant, Avize, Oger, and ^lenil, to produce
cellar to receive them, thus slopinu;ly, three the gas more favorabl}- and the makers
;
or four thousand together. For ten or lif- i in those places have recourse to that of Ay
teen days they are submitted to the before- j
for a similar purpose, from its abounding
mentioned agitation, which is managed by in the saccharine princijde. When mix-
the workmen with great dexterity, so as to some districts they are
tures take place in
place all the deposition in the neck, next made simply to meet the taste of the con-
to the cork, and leave the wine perfectly sumer. Wines tluit would jdease a Paris-
limpid. Each bottle is then taken by the ian palate would not be drank at Frank-
liottom, kept carefully in its reversed posi- fort. These mixtures are called assort-
tion, and, the wire and iwinc being broken, ments. They take place in the first mak-
the bottle resting between the workman's ing of the wine, by purchases from other
knees, the cork is dexterously withdrawn, growths it is done very soon after the
;
60 as to admit an explosion of the gas, wine is made. For the purpose of bring-
vhich carries the deposition with it. An ing wine to perfection in this way, many
index is then introduced into the bottle, to makers have their cellar-vats, denominated
measure the height to which the wine shall Jmiclres, which will contain from 30 to 100
ascend, and the deficiency is immediately hectolitres each.
made good with wine that has before \in- "Mixtures are not often made of the ef-
dergone a similar operation. As it was by fervescing wines. They generally remain
no means an easy task to do this, from the the pure production of the spots the names
evaporation of the gas while the bottle was of -which they bear.
open, an instrument has been invented, " The red wines are differently assorted.
and is every where used for the purpose, The maker often mingles the productions
which it is not necessary to describe here. of his best wines together. The dealer in
The bottle is then a second time corked the white wines, who happens to be the
and wired. proprietor of vineyards, buys red wines of
" The wine is now ready to be sent the third class, strong in color and pure in
away by the maker. The bottles are ar- taste, which he mingles with his wines of
ranged in a pile, as before ; but if they re- the fourth and fifth of his white pressings,
main any time longer in the cellar, they thus ameliorating them. Experience teach-
are uncorked, and submitted to a second es the maker of red wines, two or three
disengagement (degagement^ of the deposi- years in wood and weak in quality, that it
tion, and sometimes to a third, for it is a is a useful custom to mingle with each
strict rule never to send Champagne out piece ten or twelve litres of ver^' gener-
of the maker's hand without such an op- ous wine from the South, which improves
eration about fifteen days preceding its re- them and adds to their body.
moval. If this were not done, the deposit "The gray Champagne wine is obtain-
489
Ay. [FEAXCE.] Bar-le-Duc.
ed by a quarter of
treading the grapes for Continuing on our direct route to Stras-
an hour before they are submitted to the burg we pass
press. A rose-colored wine is obtained by Chdlotis-sur-Marne, containing a popula-
continuing this process a longer period; tion of 17,092 inhabitants. Principal ho-
but in the arrondissement of Kheims the tel, De la Haute Mere Dieu. It is noted
rose-colored >viues are the only ones of the for containing the largest wine-cellars in
second quality, lightly tinged with a small France. Its Champagne trade makes it
quantit}' of very strong red wine, or with still quite popular, although it is not as
a few drops of liquor made at Fismes from much so as in years gone b}'. The Cathe-
elder-berries. It is needless to say that ;
dral, which so narrow!}' escaped being al-
both the taste and quality of the wine are most entirely destroyed by fire in the year
injured by this mixture. Indeed, no one 1668, is now a specimen of both modern
who knows what the wines are at all would and ancient architecture. The church of
drink rose-colored Champagne if he could Notre Dame is decidedly the finest church
obtain the other kinds." here. It contains various monuments,
From Epernay to Paris. Time, 2 h, 18 and specimens of glass painted three cen-
ni.; fare, 17 fr. 45 c. turies ago. In 1793 mass was performed
From Epernay to Rheims. Time, 48 min- almost constantly in the choir during the
utes fare, 2 fr. 20 c.
;
dedication of the nave to the Goddess of
Seven minutes from Epernay on the road Reason. The Promencule du Jardin is sit-
to Kheims we pass the town of uated on the banks of the Marne, and is
Ay, noted for its Champagne. The red planted with ash-trees, which before the
wines of Champagne are not much known Franco-Prussian war numbered about 2000,
in England and the United States. At but which were cut down during the win-
Terzy, Yerzenay, Mailly, and St. Basle ter 1870-71 to provide fuel for the Ger-
are produced what are called the mountain man troops. The immense Champagne
wines. The wines of Bouzy are distin- cellars of M. Jacqueson contain, as an
guished by great delicacy of flavor. It ordinary thing, something like 4,000,000
would be useless to mention here every va- bottles. Before the wine is properly clear-
riety of wine produced in Champagne ; it ed and fit for use, each bottle passes about
is sufficient to remark that in no other spot two hundred times through the hands of
1
in the world is the art of making wine of the workmen. Loaded wagons pass through
such a delicate flavor so well understood. the excavations in the chalk rock, the gal-
Among the principal wine-growing houses leries of which are fifteen miles in length.
we would mention that of Jules Mumm& Eighteen miles from Chalons, on the
Co,, at Eheims, whose Dry Verzenay and railway connecting tkat town with Rheims,
Private Stock enjoy a great reputation in is the village of Mourmelon. Here the
the United States, where they are sold by Camp of Chalons, established Ijy Napoleon
John Osborn, Son, & Co. Besides having III. in 1859, commences, and extends over
\
a house in London, 82 Mark Lane, where the plain between the small streams of the
I
the brands Dry England and Extra Dry Vesle, Suippe, and Cheneu, its entire cir-
England are in great demand, this firm has cumference being about thirty miles.
\
A
also an agent in Paris. Mr. Alph. Blum, 14 Roman road traverses the camp, near which
!
Rue Cadet. Among the other brands we are the head - quarters, formerly visited
i
would mention the Cartes Autographes, yearly by the Emperor Napoleon. Close
j
much appreciated in the East Indies, and to the village of La Cheppe, at the south-
the Carte Blanche and Carte Grand Vin Cre- eastern corner of the camp, are some ves-
;
490
DOMRi^MY. [FRANCE.] Nakcy.
shal Oudinot, who was born here, as was are wide, and its buildings very regular.
also General Exelmans his statue deco-
; Many of the public buildings are very
rates another part of the town. The prin- fine, among which are the Hotel de Ville,
cipal church is that of St. Pierre, situated Eveche, and Theatre these are among the
;
was obliged to surrender to the Grand-Duke erected in memory of the event. Nancy
I
In addition to the buildings already men- Bourg (see Route No. 125).
j
tioned, Nancy possesses a fine Caihedral, Lons -le - Saulnier (buffet) is the chief
with a painting in the central dome by town in the Department of the Jura, and
Claude Jacquard, and four marble statues contains 99-17 inhabitants. Hotel Chapeau
j
taken from the mausoleum of the Cardinal Rouge. This is the birthplace of General
de Yaudemot at the Cordeliei-s a Museum, Lecourbe, Avhose statue in bronze occupies
j
;
j
situated in the Hotel de Yille, containing the centre of the Grande Place. The town
some good pictures, and a room devoted to derived its ancient name of Ledo Sa'inanus
relics of Napoleon I. a prefecture, and
; from a salt spring, or well, 60 feet deep,
a botanical garden. which is in one of the suburbs, and sup-
Before arriving at Luneville a road to the plies the Salines, or salt-works, about a
right branches off leading to Ejnnal, thence mile distant. The ruins of the ancient cas-
to Plomhieres in two hours. This noted tle of Montmorot rise just above the well.
Avatering-place is beautifull}' situated in The town of St. Claude, near Lons-le-Saul-
the Yosges Mountains. Its waters are nier, contains a fine cathedral, formerly an
celebrated for the cure of disease of the abbey church of the l-lth century, with
kidneys. It contains 1500 inhabitants. some beautifully carved stalls, bearing the
Hotels Grand, and de L' Ours.
: date 1-453. Population, 6300.
The Emperor Napoleon III. had an in- Besuncon, the ancient Vesontio of Caesar,
terview here with Cavour before the Ital- is the chief town in the Departement du
where passports and baggage are exam- among these is a Triumphal Arch, situated
ined. on the road to the citadel, which, although
Sarrehourg, or Saarhurg, is a town of much def:\ced by time, is still tolerably
3070 inhabitants, situated on the right perfect, being ornamented with statues and
bank of the Sarre, or Saar. and containing reliefs. On the eastern side of the town is
extensive military storehouses and baker- an ancient gateway, built in a cleft of the
ies. It is divided into two distinct parts, rock, called Porte Taillk. This same rock
French being spoken in the upper town was tunneled by the Romans, and an aque-
and German in the lower town. duct passed through it, which extended as
The railway now enters a succession of far as Arcier, seven miles distant, and of
tunnels, passing in one of them under the which many fragments are still to be seen
tanal -which connects the Marne and the on the road to that village. The Cathedral
Kliine. of St. Jean has an apse dating back to the
Strasbourg is reached in 1 h. 29 m. from 12th century' it also contains some good
;
enlarged by him. Besan^on also possesses : ing to his request that at his death his
a fine Palais de Justice, an arsenal, and a heart was inteiTcd on the battle-field.
school of artillery. Watches form the >Ste. J/e«e/<o«W.— Population, 4326. This
principal objects of manufacture, more than ancient town, situated at the junction of
300,000 being made annually. |
the Auve and the Aisne, possesses nothing
A
branch railway from here to Vesoul of interest but its historical associations.
gives direct communication with Paris via Here it was that the unfortunate Louis
Langres and Chaumont. Time, 11 h. 20 XVI. was recognized in his flight, June
m. ; fare, 54 fr. 75 c. 21st, 1791, by Drouet, the postmaster's
Montheliard contains 6479 inhabitants, son, who, hearing the postilions ordered to
of whom the greater part are Protestants. proceed to Varennes, hastened across the
The principal building is a Chateau of the country to give the alarm, and to arrest the
last century, built upon a height over- progress of the king.
looking the town it is flanked by several
; Varennes. —
Here the carriage of the king
round towers. Montbeliard is essentially arrived late at night, and was stopped upon
a manufacturing town it possesses some
; various pretenses until a sufficient number
cotton-mills, but the principal articles man- of National Guards had been collected,
ufactured are watch-springs and tools used when the procureur of the Commune in-
in watch-making. George and Frederick formed the king that they had penetrated
Cuvier, the celebrated naturalists, were liis disguise and should make him prisoner.
Belfort to .Vulkouse, with descriptions of of the river, which here becomes navigable,
the towns, see Route No. 127, was planned by Vauban. The " Treaty of
Colmar, a town of 23,669 inhabitants, Verdun," by which the vast empire of
situated on tributaries of the 111 about one Charlemagne was divided among the three
mile and a half from that river, carries on brothers, Louis, Charles, and Lothaire, in
an extensive manufacture of cotton and 843, has rendered the town celebrated. Li-
printed goods. (See Index.) queurs and sugar-plums are the principal
Strashurg. (See Index.) articles of manufacture.
From here to Metz no towns of impor-
tance are passed. For description of
}retz and its battle-fields, see Vol. II.
Thionvil'e, or
Diedenhofen, as it has been called sinco
itsannexation to Germany, is a first-class
ROUTE No. 130. fortress, situatedon the Moselle. This place
to Luxembourg, via Epernay, Cha-
Paris was fortified at a verA' early date, although
lons, Verdun, Metz, and Tkionville, by rail. the present defenses are chiefly the work
Time, 11 h. 34 m. fare, 55 fr. Paris, via
; of Vauban. Pepin le Gros built a small
Nancy, to Metz, is the quickest route. Time, palace here, which was frequently visited
9 h. 8 m. fare, 48 frs.
; M<itz to Strasbourg. by Charlemagne. To make the tour of
Time, 3 h. 27 m. fare, 14 marks 60 pf. ;—
; the ramparts permission must be obtained
to Frankfort ; time. Oh h. fare, 26 marks
; of the Prussian commandant. This town
60 pf. to Cologne ; time, 8 h. 4 m.
;
fare,
; capitulated to the Germans under Kamrcke
23 marks. November 24th, 1870, after that officer had
493
Luxembourg. [FRANCE.] SOISSONS.
breweries and sugar-works exist in the branch railway strikes off to Chantilly.
neighborhood. Villers-Cotterds, a town containing 3396
A railway connects Thionville and inhabitants, was the birthplace of Alex-
Kheims, via Longuyon, Sedan, and Me- andre Dumas, born here in 1802, and now
zieres. Time, 8 h. 10 m. fare, 50 fr. ; buried in the cemetery. Its former mag-
Continuing on our route, the Duchy of nificent manor-house, which belonged to
Luxembourg is entered just before reaching the dukes of Yalois, has been converted
Bettemhurg. into a poor-house.
Luxembourg contained in 1871 14,634 in- Soi>-sons (Hotel Lion Rouge'), a city of
habitants. the capital of the
This city is 11,100 inhabitants, situated on the Aisne,
Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg, a portion dates its foundation back to a very early
of the territory of the kingdom of Holland. period. It is mentioned by Csesar under
Principal hotel, Hotel de Luxembourg. The the name of Xoriodunum, and under its
territory contains a population of 200.000, walls Clovis defeated tbe Romans in 486,
which is mostly German. The city is noted and put an end to their rule in France.
for the strength of its fortress, which, how- Soissons occupies an important military
ever, has been partly dismantled, render- position from the command it possesses
ing it extremely picturesque. The duchy over the passage of the Aisne. In the war
was given to the King of Holland by the of 1814 it was taken by the Allies, and re-
treaty of 1815, in consideration of his giv- taken twice in four weeks indeed, had it
;
ing up all claim to the Duchy of Nassau, not been for the disgraceful capitulation of
There is very little to detain the traveler the French governor, contrary- to the re-
here after having examined the fortifica- peated instructions of Napoleon, Blucher's
tions. The ca.i\iedir&\oi Notre Dame, built arm}' would probably have been annihilat-
in the 16th centur\-, contains some indiffer- ed, and the result of the campaign advan-
ent paintings. John the Blind, king of tageous to the emperor. In October, 1870,
Bohemia, was buried here, but his bod}' the town was surrounded by the German
has long since been removed. troops under the Duke of Mecklenburg,
'From Luxenibourg to Paris. Time, 10 who obtained possession after a three-days'
h, 2 m. fare, 55 fr.
;
bombardment.
From Luxembourg to Treves. Time, 1 Notwithstanding its great age, Soissons
h. 15 m. fare, 4 marks 30 pf.
; has a modern look, most of its ancient
From Luxembourg to Metz. Time, 1 h. buildings having been destroyed during
26 m. fare, 5 marl^s 40 pf.
;
the numerous wars from which it has suf-
From Luxembourg to Brussels. Time, 4 fered. There is, however, an old castle
h. 51 m. (Anglo- Swiss mail-route); fare, still existing, which occupies the site of
16 marks 90 pf. ;—to Basle ; time, 8 h. 28 the one erected by the Merovingian kings.
m. ;to Strasbourg ; time, 5 h. 11 m. ; fare, The Cathedral, dating mostly from the
22 fr. 50 0. early part of the loth century, is ranked
among the first French cathedrals as re-
gards the beauty of its proportions. In
the midst of the Arsenal stands all that re-
mains of the once magnificent abbey of
St. Jean des Vignes,which was, like a for-
tress, castellated and moated. The greater
part was destroyed during the Revolution,
494
RUEIMS. [FRANCE.] M^IKRES,
but the west end of the church, surmounted which event was consummated
VII.,
by two towers -with spires, was spared at through the enthusiasm of Joan of Arc.
the entreaty of the inhal)itants. These She stood liy the side of the king while he
towers were a good deal injured by the was being anointed, with her ever-memor-
bombardment of 1870, but are at present able banner unfurled in her hand, tlie spec-
beint^ restored. tators gazing in wonder and astonishment.
Scissons also contains a Museum of antiq- Rheims was taken by the Russians in 1814,
uities found in and around the town, an but they were soon repulsed with great
asylum for the deaf and dumb, occupying slaughter by Napoleon. Colbert, minister
the site of the former abbey of St. Mtdard, of Louis XIV., was born here.
of which some subterranean chapels dating The house of Jules Mumm & Co. is one
from the 11th century alone remain, Avhere of the most responsible in Rheims.
the kings Clothaire and Sigebert were bur- Marshal MacMahon entered Rheims on
ied, and adjoining which, in a dungeon his way to relieve Bazaine on the 21st of
eight feet by three, Louis le Debonnaire August, and left on the 22d. The King
was contined by his son Clothaire in 833. of Prussia entered Rheims September 5th,
Diligences run from here to Compiegne 1870.
(see Index), a distance of 29 miles it may ; Rheims possesses a handsome Hotel de
also be reached by steamer on the Aisne. Ville, begun in 1627, but not finished, which
Bruisne contains the remains of the ab- contains a good public library, as well as a
bey church of St. Yved, begun in 1180 and museum of painting and sculpture. In the
finished in 1187 ; it is now in process of latter is Roman Pre-
the Sarcophagus of the
restoration. fect of Rheims, Jovinus, who was converted
Rheiins, or Reims^ is an ancient city con- to Christianity in 366. It consists of a
taining71,997inhabitants. Principal hotel, block of marble 9 feet by 4, with a relief of
the Lion d'Or. Ilheims is noted not only Jovinus on horseback engaged in a lion-
for being the entrepot for the world- hunt ; it was brought from the abbey
renowned wines of Champagne, but for be- church of St. Xicaise.
ing the city where nearly all the kings of Rethel, a town of 7500 inhabitants
France have been crowned from the time MacMahon's army passed through here on
of Philip Augustus. It acquired this honor the 25th of August, 1870.
j
on accountof its being the depository where At Charleville-M ezuives junction station
the Sdinte Ampoule, or holy oil, was kept, i
travelers to both of these towns leave the
Tradition says that at the time St. Remy train, those wishing to reach
was about to baptize Clovis, a dove flow j
Charkville taking the road to the right
down from heaven with a flask of oil. Al- from the station. This town, cont<iining
though this was at the commencement of 12,676 inhabitants, ceased to be a fortress
the 6th century, it contained oil sutiicient in the 17th century, and since that time
to last till the beginning of the 19th, when j
has become the commercial centre of its
it was broken to pieces by a Revolutionist district. Nails are manufactured in great
named Kuhl. Notwithstanding this fact, quantities, dogs being employed to move
it was resuscitated, and appeared again at the furnace-bellows, and having allotted
the coronation of Charles X. Rheims re- I hours for work like men.
tains hardh' any remains of antiquity, if, Mezieres, finely situated on the Meuse,
we except the Roman gates. Porta Jfarfis ,
contains nearly 6000 inhabitants. It is
and J'orta Cerens. The abbey church of one of Vauban's strong fortresses, but was
St. jRemi, founded by Clovis in the middle taken by the Germans during the last war,
of the 6th century, and the Cathedra^, which when immense numbers of the houses
dates from the middle of the loth, are well were reduced to ruins, and thoir inhabit-
worth seeing. The last stands second to ants, who had sought security from the
none north of the Alps. It was designed bombardment in the cellars, buried beneath
by Robert de Courcy is 466 feet long by
; them. It, however, resisted a Spanish at-
121 in height, and contains many statues tack of 40,000 under Charles V. Francis
and monuments. One of the most impor- I. proposed to destroy it, Init the Chevalier
tant ceremonies that ever occurred within Bayard, with two thousand men, sus-
its noble walls was the coronation of Charles tained the siege for six weeks.
495
DONCHEBY. [FRANCE.] COMPlftGXB.
About eight miles beyond Mezieres the 1 Zora(/My.— Population, 3360. H6te' de la
tain passes the village of j
Croix d'Or. This is a fortress of the
Donchery^ -where the interview took second class, called b}^ Louis XIV. the
place between the Emperor Xapoleon and Iron Gate of France. It is situated close
Bismarck, September 2, 1870, at which the to the Belgian frontier, and made a noble
conditions of peace proposed by the chan- defense against the Germans during the
j
cellor were refused. The weaver's cMage late war. It was obliged, however, to capit-
in which the interview took place may be \
ulate. It also sun-endered on honorable
seen from the railway on the right, just |
terms to the Allies in 1815, after a length-
after leaving Donchery. The celebrated : ened bombardment and heroic resistance.
fortress of From Longuyon the railway continues tc
'
Turenne was here nursed. In the imme- pelle, by rail. Time, 11 h. 15 m. fare, 59 ;
diate vicinity the Con^te de Soissons defeat- fr. 35 c. You change cars at Maubeuge for
ed the army of Richelieu, but lost his life Brussels. To Franlcfort, via Cologne time, ;
Montmedi/, situated on the Chiers, a Pagny {jnaiV) time, 13J h. fare, 85 fr.
; ;
tributary of the Meuse, contains 2135 in- Creil, see Route Xo. 110.
{
'
of Luxembourg, who sold her to the En- Carnbrai, a manufacturing town of 22,897
glish. The Tour de la Pucellc marks the inhabitants, which is situatr'd on the line
spot. A most lovely excursion may be between St. Quentin and Lille. Fenelon,
made to the pretty village of the author of " Tclemachus," was buried
Pierrefonds, distance G miles, one of the here. His coffin was torn from the grave
most agreeable and quiet retreats in France. by the demons of the Revolution, and
Hotels, Grand Ilot.l and Hotel d?s Etran- melted to make bullets. There is a very
gers. Here the beautiful mediasval castle, fine monument erected to his memory in
erected in 1390, by Louis, Duke of Orleans, the new church, built on the site of the old
partially destroyed by Richelieu, 1617, cathedral, which was razed to the ground
and restored by the Empress Eugenie, by the Revolutionists. The article known
1865, should be visited. The decoration in England and the United States as
of the interior is most fine, the chimney- "cambric " is named from this town, being
pieces in the great halls being particularly manufactured here. Cambrai was taken
worthy of notice. by the English in 1815. It is noted also
Noyon, a town of 7000 inhabitants, con- between
for the treaty of peace signed here
tains a fine old cathedral of the 12th cen- Charles V. and Francis I. also for the
;
tury, but is principally noted for being the League concocted against the Republic of
birthplace of John Calvin, the great Re- Venice.
former ; he was the son of a notary of ;
Diligences daily to Arras and Douai.
Noyon. I
Le Cateau, containing 9974 inhabitants,
From here you can take a diligence to has of late years rapidly increased in size,
visit the state prison of Ilam, rendered owing to the working of some neighboring
famous by its being the place where the !
coal-mines. It stands at the beginning
late emperor of France was confined for [
of the great coal-field, the most important
six years. We have described the cir- in France, of the Departtment du Xord,
cumstance in his biography. The walls which is a prolongation of the Belgian
are 36 feet thick, and the donjon 100 high; : coal-field. The principal collieries are at
strangers are not admitted. Anzin, Denain, Fresnes, Lourches, and
St. Quentin contains 34,811 inhabitants. I
Yieux-Condi^, from which a large portion
Hotel du Cijgne the best. It is a manufact- [
of the coal is transported to Paris by the
uring town, prettily situated on the banks j
canal St. Quentin. At Le Cateau the
of the Somme. The principal manufact- j
treaty between Philip II. and Henri II.
ure is that of linen cloths. The cathedral was signed in 1559. In the town is a
is one of the finest in northern France. St. statue by Bra of ^larshal ^lortier, Duke
Quentin is celebrated for the great battle of Treviso, a native of Le Cateau, who
fought between the French and Spanish j
was slain in Paris by Fieschi's infernal
troops in 1557. Queen Mary having dis- machine.
patched a large force, under the command I
Mauheuge contains 13,734 inhabitants.
of the Earl of Pembroke, to assist her hus- I Hotel du Grand Cerf. It is situated on the
band, Philip II., the town was carried aft- I Sambre, and forms one of the fortresses
er the eleventh assault; the inhabitants on the second line of defenses toward Bel-
were treated with great cruelty. It was 1
gium. The fortifications were constructed
taken by the Germans October 21, 1870. in 1680 after plans made by Vauban. The
Two miles north of the town is the bat- parish church contains a slipper and veil
tle-field on which the Germans (January said to have belonged to St. Aldegonde,
19,1871) defeated the Army of the North the founder of a celebrated nunnerj'-.
under General Faidherbe, which had been Mauheuge to Brussels. Time, 2Jh. fare, ;
raised for the relief of Paris. 6 fr. 55 c. Jeumont station, where baggage
The Camd of St. Quentin, completed by is examined coming from Belgium the ;
Napoleon I., forms a communication be- next station is Erquelines, where baggage
tween the River Scheldt and the Atlantic, and passports are examined going to Bel-
I
497
PiRONN-E. [FRANCE.] Valenciennes.
of the busiest and most thriving places in 1 the patron saint of the town, St. Vaast.
Belgium. The coal-fields in the vicinity j
The north transept contains two triptychs
emplo}- over 10,000 men ; 7000 are em- 1 of the early Flemish school, that repre-
ployed making nails ; and the glass-works senting the Adoration of the Magi, with
are the largest in Belgium. Coal, found- the date 1528, said to be by Bellegambe.
ries,furnaces, and smoke surround you in In addition to ttie Public Library, -which
every direction. Charleroi was founded contains over 40,000 volumes, there is a
by Charles II. of Spain, and named after Museum, entered from the public gardens,
him. Its fortifications were destroyed by with a collection of paintings, chiefly
the French in 1795, but restored in 1816 by modern also archaeological, numismat-
;
Somme, contains 4262 inhabitants. In the volumes, and a Benedictine college. Visit
castle of this town Louis XL
was detained the church of Notre Dame, and apph' to
a prisoner by Charles the Bold, and released the sacristan to see a remarkable Flemish
only after he had signed a treaty most dis- altar-piece by Bellegambe, a native of
advantageous to himself. Douai.
Arras.— Hotel Petit Saint Pol. This is Coal-pits abound in the neighborhood of
a first-class fortress, containing 25,907 in- the town, which carries on also a consider-
habitants, and situated on the right bank able trade in flax.
of the Scarpe, on the site of the ancient Douai to Valenciennes, 50 minutes; fare,
Nemetacum. It is divided into two parts, 5 fr. 30 c.
the Haute and Basse Vi'Je ; in the former Valenciennes is a first-class fortress, sit-
is situated the Hotel de Ville, a beauti- uated on the Scheldt, and possessing a
ful building, dating from 1510, with some citadel constructed b}' Vauban. Popula-
fine oak carvings in the reception-rooms. tion, 24,662. Hotel dn Commerce. Here
The Cathedral, completed in 1833, is an is manufactured in large quantities the
Italian edifice in the form of a cross, occu- celebrated Valenciennes lace, also a large
pying the site of a building erected in the quantity of fine cambric. The town pos-
7th century to serve as a mausoleum for sesses a fine Hotel de Ville, which contains
498
Lille. [FRANCE.] COCRTRAI,
three pictures ascribed to Rubens, a li- that of flax, which is largely grown in
brary of 25,000 volumes, and adjoining the the vicinity, being tho most important.
library a museum, called the Musee Bene- Lille to Ghent. Time, 2 h. 20 m. fare, ;
zech, bequeathed to the town in 1852, and 5 fr. 90 c. to Calais, via Hazebrouck and
;
tier station, and Quievrain, the Belgian one, of the lines from Calais to Paris by Arras,
on to Jemmapes, famous for the French Re- from Calais to Lille and Brussels, and the
publican victory of 1792, under Dumouriez, line from Dunkerque.
and Mons, whence to Brussels by mail (see l_Dunkirk, or Dunl-ergue, is a seaport
Route No. 140). and town of 34,350 inhabitants,
fortified
Valenciennes to Paris. Time, 5 h. 10 m. reached from Hazebrouck in 45 minutes
fare, 30 fr. 80 c. fare,4 fr. 90 c. Hotel de Flandre. This is
If taking the route from Paris to Ghent, the best harbor possessed by France in the
a line branches off at Douai in the direc- North Sea, and large sums have been ex-
tion of Lille. Time to Lille, 40 minutes pended in clearing its mouth from the sands
fare, 4 fr. with which it was obstructed. It is the
Lille Qlotel de V Europe) is an important great outlet for the manufactures of the
manufacturing town, ranking fifth among I
extreme northern departments the town ;
the cities of France, and containing more is clean and well-paved, and the bathing
are five or six rooms filled with paintings, the last king of the first race, expired in
of which the finest are a Magdalen and 755.
the Virgin and St. Francis, by Rubens; a St. Omer to Calais. Time, 45 m. ; fare„
Medea, by E. Ddacrnix ; and several works 5 fr. 15 c.
by a native artist, De Veuez, born 1642. Calais, see Route No. 110.
The Museum also possesses a valuable Returning to our route from Lille to
collection of drawings, 1300 in number, by Ghent we pass
the old Italian masters, among which are Roubaix, a town of 24,000 inhabitants,
numbered several by Raphael, Michael possessing extensive cotton manufactories.
Angelo, Fra Bartolomeo, etc. also a bust
;
Tourcoing, the next station (population,
in wax, attributed to Raphael. This col- 20,000), is famous for its carpets and woolen
lection -was bequeathed to the town by yarn. At
Chev. Wilar, a native of Lille, who passed Mouscron the Belgium custom-house.
is
are numerous large bleaching- grounds in under the walls of Courtrai in 1302, be-
the vicinity of the town. The principal tween 20.000 Flemings, under the Comte de
buildings are the Hotel de Yille, with two Namur, and the French under the Comte
curiously carved chimney - pieces ; the d'Artois. The latter were defeated, their
church oi Notre Dame^ v;\ih a fine painting leader slain, and 700 gilt spurs, ornaments
behind the altar, the Raising of the Cross, worn only by the French nobility, were
by Vandyke ; two ancient towers of the gathered on the battle-field, and hung up
loth centurj', and a Museum of modem in the church of the convent of Groeningen,
paintings. since destroyed.]
The Battle of Golden Spurs was fought Ghent, see Route No. 137.
500
BELGIUM.
History. [BELGIUM.] HlSTORl.
only about one eighth of that of Great victories, especially that of Pharsalia, were
Britain, while its population but little ex- decided by the cavalry and light infantry
ceeds live millions. However, the import- of Belgium. The lowland people, on the
ant position the country has occupied in contrar}', continued faithful to their an-
the political, military, commercial, and ag- cient manners, customs, and language, and
ricultural history of Europe —
its former ce- sought only to secure national independ-
lebritv in manufactures and the fine arts, ence by maritime commerce and agricul-
and its present rapid progress in every in- j
tural industry. Pliny, who speaks from
dustrial pursuit and social improvement, personal observation, says that, in his time,
give it a peculiar interest. Its climate is their fruits were abundant and excellent.
less chilly and damp, and more favorable In the 3d, 4th, and 5th centuries, tho
to health than that of Holland but it is
; character of the Belgic population was
certainly humid compared with France greatly changed by successive invasions
and Germany, and may be considered very of Salian Franks from the North, whose
similar to that of England, except that it progress westward terminated in the es-
is still subject to more frequent variations, tablishment of the Prankish, or French em-
with a tendency to excess. pire in Gaul, and under whose dominion
During the time of CiEsar, the natives the ancient inhabitants of the Ardennes
of Belgium were considered the least civ- were either destroyed or reduced to slavery.
ilized and most courageous of all the Gallic Christianity was introduced, and mon-
nations. They had cities surrounded by asterieswere founded in the immense for-
lofty stone walls and fortified gates, re- ests and solitudes of the higher country,
quiring the iise of the Roman battering- where the French nobles visited only for
rams and moving towers. Their armies the sake of hunting bears. The maritime
contained troops of cavalry. The country lowland descendants of the Menapii, now
produced supplies of corn, and abundant blended with Saxons and Frisians, and
herds of cattle. The people consisted of known by the name of Flemings, continued
two classes, chiefs and slaves. Druidism to prosper in commerce and agriculture.
from Britain was universally predominant. In the time of Charlemagne, A.D. 800,
Flanders was occupied by the Mcnapii and the ph}-sical state of the country had be-
Morini, Brabant by the Aduatici, Hai- come much improved. In the west em-
nault and Namur by the Xervii (who ex- bankments were raised against the en-
501
History. [BELGIUM.] History.
croachments of the sea, and in the east with lands, and to grant great privileges
large tracts of forest were cleared but the ;
'
sovereigns obtained them to form their numerable rights, claims, and privileges,
best troops. They constituted an impor- advanced and enforced now by subjects
tant part of the Norman army in the con- and Aassals against each other or against
quest of England and a Flemish princess, their lords, and now by lord and vassal
;
daughter of Baldwin, count of Flanders, against the monarch, without the expres-
and wife of William the Conqueror, em- sion of any collective idea of Belgium as a
broidered with her own hands the celebra- nation.
ted tapestry of Bayeux, which represents Lender the Burgundian dynasty the com-
the whole history of that event. mercial and manufacturing towns of the
The country had long been divided into Low Country enjoyed a remarkable pros-
provinces, Ijelonging to different families, perity. The famous Order of the Golden
and governed by different laws. Hence Fleece was instituted in 1130, and. before
the counties or earldoms of Flanders, Na- the end of the 15th century, the city of
mur, and Hainault the duchies of Brabant,
; Ypres had 4000 looms, and the city of Ghent
Limijourg, and Luxembourg ; the princi- 50,000 weavers,
pality of Liege; the marquisate of Ant- Bruges and Antwerp were the great
werp and the seigniory of Mechlin.
:
marts of the commercial world, and con-
At the end of the 11th century, when ali
'
their banquets -vrere given with almost in- by Philip II. it was established in its most
credible splendor. This luxury produced diabolical extravagance. He lilled the
depravity and crime to such an extent that country with Spanish soldiers, and com-
in one year 1400 murders were committed missioned the Duke of Alva to extirpate
in Ghent in the gambling-houses and other without mercy every Protestant heretic in
resorts of debauchery. The arts were cul- Belgium.
tivated with great success. Van Eyck in- Volumes have been written to describe
vented the beautiful oil colors for which the proceedings of this able soldier but
the Flemish school is renowned. Paint- sanguinary persecutor, who boasted that
ing on glass, polishing diamonds, lace he had put to death in less than six years
tapestry, and chimes were also invented in 18,000 men and women by the sword, the
Belgium at this period. ]Most of the mag- gibbet, the rack, and the flames. Ruin
nificent cathedrals and town halls in the and dread of death in its most hideous
country were built in the loth and l-4th forms drove thousands of artisans to En-
centuries. gland, where they introduced the manu-
History, poetry, and learning were much facturing skill of iiruges and Ghent. Com-
cultivated and the University of Louvain merce and trade in Flanders dwindled
;
was the most celebrated in Europe. In away. Many of the rich merchants were
1477, Belgium passed under the dynasty reduced to beg for bread. The great cities
of the empire of Austria; and, after many were half deserted, and forest wolves often
years of contest between the despotic Max- devoured the scattered inhabitants of des-
imilian and the democratic Flemings, the olated villages.
government, in 1519, descended to his Belgium remained under Spanish do-
grandson, Charles V., King of Spain and minion until the memorable victory of
Emperor of Germany. In his reign the Ramillies in 1706, after which it was sub-
affluence of the Flemish burghers attained ject again to Austria and, having been
;
glish and Spanish wool to the value of all the old feudal privileges, exemption
8,000,000 florins. The Scheldt at Antwerp from all territorial contributions, the abo-
often contained 2500 vessels waiting their lition of titlies, a more extensive division
|
turn to come to the wharves. Her gates of real property, a repeal of the game-laws,
|
were daily entered by 500 loaded wag- an admirable registry law, a cheap system
ons, and her Exchange was attended twice of tax collection, the advancement of ed-
a day by 5000 merchants, who expended ucation in central schools and lyceums, a
i
130,000 golden crowns in a single banquet uniform system of legislation for the crea-
given to Philip, son of Charles Y. The tion of codes, publicity of judicial proceed-
'
value of the avooI annually imported from ings, trial by jury, and the general use of
!
gium. Lutheranism was preached Avith long been styled the cockpit of Europe.
frenzied zeal by several popular fanatics, \
By the Congress of Vienna, the prov-
who drew around them crowds amounting inces of Belgium were annexed to those of
[
sometimes to 10,000 or 15.000. Parties of Holland, to form the kingdom of the Neth-
i
Iconoclasts also appeared, and demolished erlands, which existed until the Revolu-
the ornamental property of 400 churches. tion in 1830, when Belgium became an in-
Protestant persecution by the Inquisition dependent nation. Her union with Hol-
had been commenced by Charles V., but land was one of convenience on the part
503
HiSTOnv [BELGIUM.] HlSTOST.
people joined together, wlio differ in na- cities, and the consequent reduction of the
I
tional character, in religion, and in lan- expense of traveling to one half the previ-
!
guage. The Belgians complained of be- ous charges on the common road, the in-
;
ing forced into a union -which they -would tercourse has become nearly ten times
;
not have sought, and that its terms were greater, and it appears that the diflference
!
unequal. The French Revolution -^vhich is mainly occasioned by the poorer classes
^
had recently transpired excited the pre- being enabled to avail themselves of this.
I
and the result -was a declaration, and final- recreation an advantage of which the
'
the first example of such a national and ed them with all their different rulers, and
;
S3-stematic provision of the means of rapid involved them in ruinous disasters during
communication. The undertaking -was many successive centuries. "Writers of all
!
first projected in 1833, and the object pro- ages agree in describing the Belgians as
^
posed -v\-as to unite the principal commer- the most restless, unruly, tumult-loving
'
cial to-s'snis on one side -nuth the sea, and mortals in existence always treating their
.
;
on the other -with the frontiers of France best rulers the worst, while the bad over-
and Prussia. In this respect Belgium is awed them. In the history of no other
most favorably situated for the experiment countr}' do we find such unbounded liber-
of a general system of railroads. ty, with such an invincible disposition to
It is compact in form, of moderate ex- abuse it.
tent, is surrounded on three of its sides The Flemish burghers no sooner eman-
by active commercial nations, and on the cipated themselves from the despotism of
fourth by the sea, from -which it is separ- their feudal lords than jealousy of each
ated only by a fe-v\' hours' voyage from other's power engaged them in frequent
England. On the -west side are the t-w^o and fatal hostilities; so that "libert}',"
large and commodious ports of Ant-werp says Mr. Hallam, "never wore a more
I
and Ostend, and its eastern frontier is dis- unamiable countenance than among these
'
tant only a fe-w leagues from the Rhine, burghers, who abused the power she gave
•n-hieh affords a connection with the na- them by cruelty and insolence." They
tions of central' and southern Europe. It confirmed ever}- compact with ceremoni.
j
is therefore in possession of convenient ous oaths, and then broke them one after
!
markets for its productions, and of great another, always complaining of encroach-
facilities for an extensive transit trade. ments on their liberties and this charac- :
That the adoption of a system of low teristic deficiency of good faith appears to
fares is beneficial to the managers of rail- have been transmitted to the present de-
ways may clearly be seen in the fact that, scendants of the Belgians of the Middle
'
I
world. Its peculiar finalities are delicate
these occasions is truly astonishing, and firmness, and a great elegance and variety
j
the trial of the comparative ability of the of design. The patterns are all worked
j
natives of particular localities is regarded separate, and are stitched on. The flax
with intense excitement, which is manifest- employed grows near Hal, and the best at
ed by marching the performers to the con- Rebecque. The finest description costs
test in stately processions, accompanied by from 300 to 400 francs a pound.
The
party banners and thousands of spectators. spinning is performed in darkened rooms,
'
Music, in fact, is so commonly and care- with a beam of light admitted only upon
fully learned, even by the laboring classes, the work through a small aperture.
that the harmony of the airs which are A very good house, strongly recom-
sung by groups of peasants while at work mended, is the Compagnie des Indes, No. 1
is often delightful to the most cultivated Rue de la Regence, opposite the palace of the
musical ear. The national taste for music Duke of Brabant.
is strongly manifested in the numerous Roi/al J\raniifacton/ of Laces, Boval de
and singularly excellent chimes of 50 or Beck. This house, No. 74 Rue Royale, is
100 bells, called carillons, which are placed one of the most important and oldest estab-
in the church steeples and towers of the lished in Brussels, with medals and diplo-
town halls those in the large cities are mas from several exhibitions. Every pos-
;
not always played by means of a revolv- sible variet}^ of lace, ancient and modem,
ing barrel woiked by machinery, but by of all designs and to suit all purses, can be
keys similar to those of an organ, though inspected prices are marked in plain fig-
;
of far greater dimensions. The perform- ures. The Compagnie Royale de Deutelles of
er, an accomplished musician, is paid a 0. de Vergnies (S; Sosurs, 26 Rue des Parois-
considerable salary for amusing the citi- siens,one minute from the St. Gudule cathe-
zens, during an hour or two each day, dral, is also one of the first lace houses in
with the finest musical compositions. His Europe. Visitors are shown over the cen-
hands are cased with thick leather, and the tral working-rooms, where every variety
physical force required is so severe as to of lace is manufactured.
exhaust the strength of a powerful man in Lace-touters infest the environs of the
a quarter of an hour. In some localities, cathedral, to the extreme annoyance of the
the difterent chimes are so numerous as public; patrons should be informed that
scarcely to leave an interval of silence day neither these nor the cabmen will direct
or night. them to the above establishments.
[
of the indigenous wool, of pure and mix- Bmissels, the capital of Belgium, is beau-
ed breeds, scarcely amounts in value to tifully situated on the River Senne, about
200,000 francs. "NVoolen cloths form one fifty miles from the sea. Including its
of the most important branches of manu- suburbs, it contains 399,93G inhabitants.
facturing industry, and they are greatly Principal hotels Grand, Bellevue, ^fengelle,
:
The Hotel du Grand Monar^e is a good which are the Palais Ducal and the ma-
house, one minute from the Place de la sonic lodge the Pue de la Loi, in the cen-
;
Monnaie, with moderate prices, managed tre of which are the houses of Parliament
by the proprietress, Mile. E. Wauters. and the Rue Roy ale, on which are situated
The upper town contains the park, the the finest mansions in Brussels ; the general
royal court, and government offices, the fin- appearance of the whole is similar to the sur-
est squares, streets, and hotels, and the res- roundings of Place de la Concorde in Paris,
idences of the richer classes the lower
;
on a small scale in fact, the whole city,
;
town is the residence of the operative portion opera-house, theatres, squares, restaurants,
of the population, though it still abounds in and cafes, is a miniature Paris.
fine old mansions, formerl}' occupied by
the ancient nobles of Brabant. The Hotel
de Ville, in this quarter, is one of the lar- One of the principal squares is Place des
gest and most remarkable edifices in the Martyrs. It is planted with linden-trees
Gothic style, that are to be seen in per- and surrounded by elegant buildings in
fection only in the Netherlands. It was the Doric style ; it was chosen as the sep-
erected in 1400. It contains a great pro- ulture for those who fell in the revolu-
fusion of quaint sculptures, and its pyram- tionary struggle of 1830 ; a monument has
idal tower rises to the height of 364 feet, been erected over their graves it consists
;
and commands a beautiful view of the field of a marble statue of Liberty, with a gen-
of Waterloo and the surrounding country. ius kneeling at each corner of the pedes-
It is surrounded by a statue 17 feet high tal. Geefs was the artist.
of St. Michael and the Dragon. In the Place de la Monnaie are situated
In the court there is a beautiful fount- the mint, exchange, and theatre, with the
ain formed of dolphins in bronze, and riv- principal cafes in the city. The principal
er-gods in white marble. There are two and most frequented streets, and those in
other fountains deserving of notice, the which are situated the most elegant shops,
first of which is situated in Place du Grand are Rue Montagne de la Cour and Rue de
Sablon, and is named Fountain of IMiner- la Madeleine. Of the public buildings
va. It was erected by the Earl of Ajdes- that surround the park, the first in order is
b\iry in 1741, as a token of respect to the the Royal Palace at the southern extremi-
inhabitants after residing in their midst ty ; its general aspect is plain and unassum-
for forty years. It consists of a beautiful ing the interior is very magnificently fur-
;
group of figures in white marble. The nished in the usual style of European pal-
most celebrated of all the fountains is the aces, but contains few pictures of any great
506
BRUS SELS
^
[BELGIUM. Brussels.
value, with the exception of a few by Van- Joshua Reynolds on Rubens as an artist
dyke and David. and man of genius.
On the east side of the park is the pal- "Rubens (Peter Paul) was born at Co-
ace, which before the Ke volution of 18:30 logne in 1577 he studied the art first at
;
was occupied by the Prince of Orange it Antwerp from there he went tu ^'enice to
; ;
was presented to the prince by the city of study under Titian from there he went to
;
Brussels it is a beautiful building 240 feet Rome, in IGUO, to study its anticjue monu-
;
in length, Avith a central dome and cupola. ments and the pictures of Raphael. His
The paintings it formerly contained were reputation soon spread throughout Europe.
of the highest order, comprising some of Marie de Medicis sent for him to come to
the most choice productions of the Flemish Paris to paint the series of pictures of that
and Italian schools all of them, however, queen from her birth to her reconciliation
;
with the magnificent furniture the palace with Louis XIII. The Duke of Bucking-
contained, have been sold. Many were ham presented him to the Infanta Isabella
bought by the city, and may be seen in the of Spain, who appointed him her embassa-
miiseum in the Old Palace, dor to England to negotiate a peace with
On the north end of the park the House Charles I. He was very successful in
of parliament was situated prior to its entire this mission. Charles conferred on him
destruction by fire in 1883. It was caused the honor of knighthood, gave him his own
by an escape of gas during the sitting, the sword, a rich ring, and his ])ortrait. Ru-
deputies escaping just in time. The hy- bens was eml)as.sador in Spain; then in
drants were partly frozen. The original Holland after which he retired from po-
;
constitution, archives, and a library of litical life, and died at Antwerp in 1G40.
125,000 volumes were burned, the entire " The works of men of genius alone,
loss amounting to 12,000,000 frs. whose great faults are united with great
Near the Place Eoyale is situated the beauties, afford matter for criticism. Gen-
handsome old Palace. It was formerly ius is alw?ys eccentric, bold, and daring,
the residence of the Spanish and Austrian which at the same time commands atten-
governors of the Low Countries, or Neth- tion, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the
erlands, and was at that time one of the regular cold and timid conijiosor who es-
richest palaces in Europe, It was built in capes unseen and deserves no praise.
1300, and rebuilt in 17-16. It now con- " The elevated situation on which Ru-
tains museums, public libraries, galleries bens stands in the esteem of the world is
of painting and sculpture, and lecture- alone a suflicient reason for some examina-
room. tion of his pretensions. His fame is ex-
In the picture-gallery there are some tended over a great part of the Continent
very fine paintings, especially those pur- without a rival, and it may be justly said
chased by the city at the King of Holland's that he has enriched his country, not in a
sale. There are some six or seven by Ru- figurative sense alone by the great exam-
bens, all of which have been severely crit- ples of art which he has left, but by what
I
icised by Sir Joshua Reynolds. They are some would think a more solid advantage
'
Gerard Dow; Christ after being taken tures, the Luxembourg gallery and the (
from the Cross, by B. Imi Orky; Portrait Louvre); and if to these we .idd the manv
of Dellafaille, by Vawlyke^ etc. towns, churches, and private cabinets,
As it is our intention to give a small his- where a single jiicturo of Rnl)ens confers
torical sketch of the ditVerent leading paint- eminence, we can not hesitate to place him
ers of Europe, and as the traveler will soon in the lirst rank of illustrious painters.
begin to see acres of Rubens's pictures, "Though I still entertain ponie general
where of other great artists he sees but opinion with regard to his excellence and
yards, we think it not inappropriate to defects, yet, having now seen his greatest
append to our sketch a selection from Sir compositions, where he has more means of
507
Pkussels. [BELGIUM.] Brussels.
displaying those parts of his art in which and correspondence in the whole together,
he particularly excelled, my estimation of which is often more captivating than reg-
his genius is of course raised. It is only ular beauty.
in large compositions that his powers seem " Rubens appears to have had that con-
to liave room to expand themselves. They fidence in himself which it is necessary
really increase in proportion to the size of for eveiy artist to assume when he has fin-
the canvas on which they are to be dis- ished his studies, and may venture in some
played. His superiority is not seen in measure to throw aside the fetters of au-
easel pictures, nor even in detached parts thority; to consider the rules as subject
of his greater works, which are seldom to his control, and not himself subject to
eminently beautiful. It does not lie in an the rules to risk and to dare extraordina-
;
ances of those pixinters with which he is is, consequently, very little in his works
surrounded, though they have perhaps few- that appears to be taken from other mas-
er defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and ters. If he has borrowed any thing, he
insipid such as the altar-pieces of Cra^et,
; has had the address to change and adapt
Schut, Segers, Haysum, Tyssens, Van Ba- it so well to the rest of his work that the
len, and the rest. The}' are done by men thief is not discoverable.
whose hands, and indeed all their faculties, I "Besides the excellency of Rubens in
appear to have been cramped and confined, these general powers, he possessed the true
and it is evident that ever}'- thing they did art of imitating. He saw the objects of
was the and pains.
effect of great labor Nature with a painter's eye; he saw at
"The productions of Rubens, on the I
once the predominant feature of Avliich
contrary, seem to flow witli a freedom and I
every object is known and distinguished ;
animated pencil with which every object ly it is not enough that objects be truly
is touched, all contribute to awaken and represented with grace, which means here
keep alive the attention of the spectator that the work is done with facility and
;
awaken in him, in some measure, corre- without effort. Rubens was perliaps the
spondent sensations, and make him feel a greatest master in the mechanical part of
degree of that enthusiasm with v;hich the the art, the best workman with his tools,
painter was carried away. To this we that ever exercised his pencil.
;
may add the complete uniformity in all " This power, which Rubens possessed
parts of the work, so that the whole seems in the highest degree, enabled him to rep-
to be conducted and grow out of one mind. resent whatever he undertook better than
Every thing is of a piece, and fits its place. any other painter. His animals, particu-
Even his taste of drawing and of form ap- larly lions and horses, are so admirable
pears to correspond better Avith his color- that it may be said they were never prop-
ing and composition than if he had adopt- erly represented but by him. His por-
ed any other manner, though that manner, traits rank with the best works of the
simply considered, might have been bet- painters Avho have made that branch of
ter. It is here, as in personal attractions, the art the sole business of their lives
I
there is frequently a certain agreement 1 and of these he has left a great variety of
Brussels. [BELGIUM.] Brussels.
specimens. The same may be said of his too much art in the disposition of drapen-,
I
landscapes ;and though Claude Lorraine and the other too little. Rubens' drap-
I
finished more minutely, as becomes a pro- ery, besides, is not properly historical
I
;
fessor in an}- particular branch, yet there the quality of the stuff of which it is com-
is such an airiness and facility in the land- posed is too accurately distinguished, re-
scapes of Kubens that a p linter would as sembling the manner of Paul Veronese.
soon wish to be the author of them as those This draper}' is less offensive in Rubens
of Claude, or any other artist whatever. than it would be in many other painters,
" The pictures of Ruiiens have this effect as it partly contributes to that richness
on the spectator, that he feels himself in which is the peculiar character of his style,
nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on which we do not pretend to set forth as of
his defects. The criticisms which are the most simple and sublime kind.
made on him are, indeed, often unreasona- " The difference of the manner of Ru-
ble. His style ought no more to be blamed bens from that of any other painter before
for not having the sul)limity of Michael him is in nothing more distinguishable
Angelo, than Ovid should be censured be- than in his coloring, which is totally differ-
cause he is not like Virgil. ent from that of Titian, Correggio, or any
" However, it must be acknoAvledged of the great colorists. The effect of his
that ha wanted many excellences which pictures may not be improperly compared
would have perfectly united with his style. to clusters of flowers all his colors appear :
Among these we may reckon beauty in his as clear and beautiful, and, at the sarao
female characters; sometmies, mdeed, they time, he avoided that tawdr}' effect which
make approaches to it they are healthy one would expect such gay colors to pro-
;
and comely women, but seldom, if ever, duce in this respect resembling Barocci
;
possess any degree of elegance. The same more than any other painter. "What ws\
may be said of his young men and chil- said of an ancient painter may be applied
dren. His old men have that sort of dig- to those two artists, that their figures look-
nity which a bushy beard will confer but ed as if they fed on roses.
;
" The incorrectness of Rubens in regard first impressions from the works of Rubens
to the outline oftener proceeds from haste would censure Correggio as heavy and ;
and carelessness than inability there are the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens
;
in his great works, to which he seems to wanted solidity of effect. There is light-
'.
]\\VQ paid more particular attention, naked ness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his
I
figures as eminent for their drawing as for advocates will urge, and comparatively a
:
he kept his outline large and flowing; this, highest degree of delicacy and what may ;
pery, especially that of his women it is : according to the custom in pastoral poetr}-,
scarcely even cast with any choice of skill. by bestowing on each of these illustrious
Carlo Maratti and Rultens are in this re- painters a garland, without attributing su-
j
"To conclude, I will venture to repeat supported by the tree of knowledge, stands
in favor of Eubens what I have before said the Virgin, holding the infant Jesus in her
in regard to the Dutch school, that those arms, who is endeavoring to thrust the
-who can not see the extraordinary merit cross into the serpent's head. The Cathe-
of this great painter either have a narrow dral contains numerous magnificent altars
conception of the variety of art, or are led and fine paintings. The organ is remark-
aAvay by the affectation of approving noth- able for the depth and power of its intona-
ing but what conies from the Italian tions and perfect unison.
school." The Cathedral of Notre Dame de la Chc-
Correggio was born in Modena in 1494 : pelle in the Eue Haute is a beautiful Goth-
he was the founder of the Lombardy school ic structure, founded in 1134. The mon-
of painters, and died at the early age of 40 uments contained in it are veiy numerous,
years from excess of labor, being in very chief of which is that of the Spinola fami-
indigent circumstances. He Avas remark- ly it stands to the left of the altar.
; We
able for the coloring of his pictures, and find, also, a large number of very fair pic-
the females which adorned them have al- tures. Its pulpit is curiously carved, rep-
ways been considered models of perfection. resenting Elijah fed by an angel.
Brussels contains several splendid ca- The church of Nutre Dame de hon Se-
thedral churches, erected in the Middle cours, built in the 17th century, is sur-
Ages, at the head of which stands the mounted by a lefty dome. The ornaments
Cathidral of St. Gudule, founded in 1010. of the interior are very magnificent ; it is
The outside was restored in 1843. Its im- the best attended church in Brussels, and
posing front is surmounted bj^ two large high mass is very frequently performed.
square towers, from the top of which Ant- The church of Nutre Dame des Victmres
werp is distinct!}^ visible : its bell weighs is a beautiful Gothic structure, founded in
14,500 pounds. It is remarkable for the the loth century. Its exterior is profuse-
'
then struck senseless, and the inhabitants, ond contains a splendid library of 200,000
supposing this a second miracle, tore their j
volumes and 20,000 3ISS. manj' of the —
flesh from their bones and Inirned them at j
latterwere collected at a very early period
the stake. There is no doubt that the b}' the Dukes of Burgundy, and are of
whole thing was trumped up for the pur- great value the third, the museum of nat'
;
pose of enriching the accusers with the ural history, which is in the lower story,
confiscated goods of the Jews, who were and surpasses in extent and value everj
very wealthy at the time. These wafers other in the kingdom.
are still annually paraded with great pomp ; The different collections are open to trav
through the principal streets. j
elers on Sundays, IMondays, and Thurs-
The pulpit of the Cathedral is formed days, also on fete-days admission gratis.
:
of wonderfully carved groups of figures, A fee to the porter will open the doors at
representing the expulsion of Adam and I
all times.
Eve from Paradise the figures are the
:
I
Brussels has numerous and excellent es-
size of life. Above the pulpit, which is I
tablishments of public instruction a free ;
510
Waterloo. [BELGIUM.] Waterloo.
I
conflict, althou-h on Loth sides of it, at
The Restaurant des Freres Provengaux, the Farm of la Ilaye Sainte and the Cha-
\
in the Kue Royale, is one of the best ini teau of Jlovgoumont, some of the mo5t
Belgium, under the personal supervision of bloody combats took place.
I
ing. The interior plan is that of a Latin er the Englisli had or had not gained the
cross. Twelve gigantic Corinthian columns, day before the arrival of the Prussians.
imitation of I'ose-colored marble, sustain The best Engli.'^h and German authorities
the cupola, its dominant feature externally. say that Napoleon's force was 75,000 men ;
At the sides are smaller pillars, imitating while the Duke of Wellington's was but
porphyry, which support galleries leading 54,000, and only S2,000 of these were of
to the rooms on the first stor}^. At the fur- the British or Gorman legion ;and the
ther end of the cross are four large alle- Prussian General ]Muftling says "the bat-
gorical carj^atides. The pavement is mo- tle could have afforded no favorable result
saic, tastefully arranged, and the lighting to the enemy, even if the Prussians had
is by sun chandeliers on the roof, which in- never come up." The Prussians certainly
undate the decorations with a flood of light. did not do much execution until after sev-
The palace of Aremburg contains some en o'clock, it being nearly five o'clock be-
ver}' fine paintings and curiosities. It. is fore the first regiment arrived. One of
shown in the absence of the family. A our own writers on the subject says '' In :
fee of two francs for a part}- is expected. regard to the battle of ^Vaterloo, were we
In the studio of Verbockhoven, in Rue to believe the British accounts, the victo-
Royale Extereure, there are some very fine ry would have remained with them, even
paintings. There is a very nice cafe in though no Prussians had arrived on the
the park near the theatre. If you do not field; while the Prussian and French state-
intend to remain man}' days in Brussels, ments unequivocally demonstrate to the
and have no courier with you, take a valet- contrarv. The British maintained their
'
de-place by all means. The regular tariff position with the most olistinate courage ;
\
is five francs per day. The excursion to no one doubts that; but, in the language
!
Waterloo, which of course you must make, of Gneisenau's official luilletin, 'Napoleon
|
-vill occupy a whole day. The distance continually advanced in masses; and with
I
is about 12 miles, A carriage with two whatever firmness the English troops main-
;
horses will cost about one napoleon. Stage- tained themselves in their position, it was
i
coaches leave Place Royale every morning not possible but that such heroic exertions
!
for the field, fare five francs. The most must have a limit.' And even after the
direct mode to visit the field is by rail to arrival of the fourth Prussian corps under
Braine V Allend ; thence by carriage to the Billow, it is more than probable that the
Hotel du Musee au Lion. At the hotel field of battle would have remained in pos-
good, reliable guides are always to be session of the French. As the result Wi:s,
found. There are several other guides it would be difficult to account for the glo-
in the neighborhood, who speak both ry which the British and Prussians have
French and English, and who were in the taken to themselves for efl^ecting, with
famous battle they arc very accommo- 140,000 men and 380 pieces of cannon, the
; i
bating, and will describe the action in ac- rout of a French army with 70,000 men
511
ViLVORDE. [BELGIUM.] Mechux.
and 240 guns, did vre not know that the ied in the village church,
which possesses
latter was commanded by the French Em- a Crucifixion painted by him within a
peror, who, out of thirteen of the greatest
' wreath of flowers.
pitched battles recorded in history,' had Mechlin, or Malines, containing 36,100
lost but one before the battle of Waterloo." inhabitants, is one of the most picturesque
Jsear the building of the farm of la Haye towns in Belgium. Hotels, La Grande Ci-
Sainte, which was riddled with shot, is the gogne and Cour Imperiale. The name of
spot where the brave English Life-guards- this cit}'^ is familiar to travelers from the
man was buried, after having killed 7iine celebrated Mechlin lace which is manu-
Frenchmen with his own hand. Kear the factured here. It is of a coarser kind than
mound, on either side of the road, are two that made at Brussels, and its manufacture
monuments erected, one to the Hanoveri- has fallen off" considerably. The town is
an German legion, the other
officers of the divided by the River Dyle into two parts.
in memory of Col. Gordon, erected by his The streets are wide, and the houses on the
family. The epitaph on the last is one of public square and market-place are large
the most touching ever penned. Descrip- and well built. The principal object of cu-
tions of the battle may be purchased on riosity in the town is the fine Gothic ca-
the field. When we say that large cjuan- thedral of St. Rumhold. It has a tower 350
tities of buttons are imported yearly to feet high, of massive construction. Its
satisfy the demands of the relic-hunter, pulpit is very curious the carvings repre-
;
the traveler will know what importance sent the conversion of St. Paul. In the
to place upon them. chapel on the left is the masterpiece of
About three miles distant from Brussels, Vandyke ; it is the Ci-udjixion of Christ
to the northward, and near the west bank between the two thieves. Sir Joshua Rey-
of the Senne, is the palace of LaeJcen, the nolds says it is the most capital of all his
frequent residence of the king. The cha- works. In the chapels around the
diff"erent
teau of Laeken was originally bought by choir are paintings by Michael
several
the first Napoleon during the time of the Coexie, a native of Mechlin, and pupil of
imperial supremacy-, and when part of the Raphael. The church of St. John possesses
Low Countries, to which Belgium had till several of Rubens's best paintings, among
then belonged, was absorbed by France, which is the Adoration of the Magi. To
SB a palace for the Empress Josephine show the rapidity with which Rubens
and it was beneath its roof that he signed painted, there is a receipt of his preserved
his fatal declaration of war against Rus- in the church, which states that he painted
sia —a locality pregnant with j'et darker eight of these pictures in eighteen days,
influences on his destinies. The gardens for which he received 1800 florins. In tlie
and park attached to the palace are very church of Notre Dame may be seen his
fine. Madam Malibran was buried in the Miraculous Draught of Fishes. This is
cemetery of Laeken. and a moniiment erect- considered one of his best works.
ed by her husband. The palace is now In the midst of the Grande Place stands
occupied by the Empress Charlotte. a statue of ^Margaret of Austria, gouver-
Leaving Brussels by the Station du Nord, nante of the Low Countries, the aunt of the
near the Botanic Gardens, we pass Emperor Charles V.
Schaerbeck, whence a railway diverges The railway station is at a short distance
to Louvain, and then reach from the town, and, l^eing the point of ram-
Vih-orde, in which
an interesting town, ification for four of the principal Belgian
Tindal, the translator of the Biljle into En- lines, travelers should be particular in
glish, sufi"ered martyrdom. Its church changing to get into the right train. The
contains some finely carved stalls. four lines are the Northern, leading to
:
bens, may be seen on the right. It was Western, to Ghent, Bruges, and Ostend;
purchased by the artist in 1635 a portion ; and the Southern, to Brussels, Mons,
of the ancient building still remains. Te- and Charleroi. An obelisk has been
niers inhabited a farm-house at Perck, one erected at the point of divergence of the
and a half miles from Steen, and was bur- lines.
512
^NTw E F^ P
"u^^^^r i>
./
<^'^
.^**i
4\
r<<
*^
ikS <.-k..:_
Antwerp. [BELGIUM.] Antwerp.
oiiles. Time, 45 minutes fare, 2 fr. 30 c. lofty houses with their gables to the streets,
;
Cruyt, well known as manager, during four- justly proud, is the Cathedral, a magnifi-
teen years, of Delmonico's, New York fine cent building 395 feet long and "250 feet
;
table d'hote, good cooking, clean rooms, wide. Of the height of its steeple we
and an excellent wine-cellar. hardly know what to say, the difference
Antwerp, on the right bank of the between different authorities is so great.
Scheldt, is the chief port of Belgium, and Schrieber says it is 466 feet. Murray's
commands a large amount of foreign trade. Hand-book gives it 403 while the Penny ;
Treaty of AVestphalia, in 1648, ruined her 1 fr. 50 c. for a party, is demanded by the
commerce by driving her merchants to Am- custodian to make the ascent. The view
sterdam and Rotterdam. It began to re- is very magnificent.
cover its former prosperity, however, to- Near the foot of the tower will be seen
ward the end of the last century. a splendid iron canopy it is the work of :
Anterior to the close of the 15th cen- Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith of Ant-
tury, Antwerp was almost without a rival werp, who fell in love with a painter's
among the commercial cities of Europe. daughter, but was refused by her father,
In the great struggle which then arose its who would bestow her hand only on a paint-
citizens embraced the Reformed cause, in er. He abandoned the anvil and took to
support of which their town suff"ered the the easel, and eventually far surpassed her
most dreadful calamities. In 1576 it was father in his own art, as his masterpiece, the
sacked by the Spaniards, and being after- "Descent from the Cross," in the Museum,
ward wrested from them, surrendered on will testify. He married the daughter, and
favorable terms, after a siege of more than j
left these two monuments of his genius.
a year's duration, to the Prince of Par- The Cathedral and other churches are
ma. Sul)jected to the bigoted and tyrannic open from 6 to 12, and from 4.30 to 5.30
sway of Spain, and oppressed by the active most of the finest paintings, however, aro
rivalry of Holland, it lost nearly all its veiled, and are shown only between 12 and
commerce, and presented the mere shadow 4 on payment of a fee of 1 fr.for one person,
of its former greatness. With its occupa- with proportionate reduction for a party.
tion by the French at the close of the last The interior of the Cathedral corresponds
century commenced a partial revival of its in magnificence and grandeur with the ex-
prosperity. Bona^.^trte made it one of his j
terior ; but its is the mas-
chief attraction
grand naval arsenals, and spent enormous terpiece of Rubens, " The Descent from the
sums on the construction of its docks and Cross.'" It presents Joseph and Nicode-
other works. It is fast recovering, hoAvev- mus removing the bod_v of Christ from the
er, the thrifty aspect, extensive trade, and I cross, while the three Marys are near, as-
numerous population which it possessed at I
sisting with all the care and tenderness
an earlier period, when its inhabitants are !
imaginable, for fear the dead Saviour might
said to have numbered 200,000 persons. still have the power to feel. The suffer-
There are few places in Europe so rich ing Mary, kneeling and looking up at her
in magnificent churches and embellished Redeemer, with tears of love and sorrow,
by the most remarkable works of art, such is one of the most magnificent conceptions
as Rubens's, Vandyke's, Jordaen's, and oth- of female loveliness. Sir Joshua Reynolds
er great masters of painting, Avho were na- says he considers " Rubens's Christ as one
tives of Antwerp. The principal street. of the finest figures that ever was invent-
Place de Mere, rivals any in Europe. The ed it is most correctly drawn, and, I ap-
;
513
AjSTWERP, [BELGIUM.] ANTWERP.
prehend, in an attitude of the utmost diffi- ist, in the former picture, has chosen the
culty to execute. The hanging of the time when the executioner is plunging his
head on his shoulder, and the falling of the spear into the Saviour's side at the same ;
bod}' of Christ on one side, give it such an time, a soldier is breaking the limbs of one
appearance of the heaviness of death that of the malefactors, the expression of whose
nothing can exceed it." face is truly horrible in his writhing he
:
This picture was given by Rubens for has torn one of his feet from the cross.
the ground on which he built his house in The attitude of the other, as he gazes on
Antwerp. the dying Saviour, is truh' expressive of re-
In the north transept of the Cathedral pentance ; the horse of the good centurion
is Rubens's next best work, 'TAe Elevation is a magnificent composition. There are
to the Cross.'" There are also his ^^ Resur- several other pictures here by Rubens of
rection oj' the Saviour ^^ and ^''Assumption of inferior merit. " Boors Smoking," by Te-
the Virgin^ The sculptured Gothic stalls niers : was born at Antwerp in
this artist
in the principal choir, and the carving of 1610 ; was a painter. His
his father also
the pulpit, are well worth a visit. In pictures are mostly small in size. All the
front of the Cathedral, in Place Yerte, there sovereigns of his time conferred honors on
is a fine bronze statue of Rubens by Geefs. him, Louis XIV. only excepted.
The old convent of the Recollects has been The church of >S'^ Jacques is the hand-
converted into a Museum, in which is a somest in Antwerp. It contains nearly all
magnificent collection of paintings, com- the monuments and vaults of the leading
prising the choicest specimens of the mas- families, chief among which is the tomb of
ters of the Flemish school, Vandyke, Jor- Rubens, who was buried here. It is cov-
daens, Rubens, Teniers, and others. Ad- ered with a slab of marble sunk in the floor.
mission from 10 to 3 Sundays and Thurs-
; During the excitement of the French
days free on other days 1 fr. There is a
; Revolution, when all the other tombs in
very good catalogue, which you should by the church were pillaged, the universal re-
all means buy. It is impossible to give spect for Rubens's genius left this un-
the numbers of each picture, as custodians scathed. There are numerous paintings
are continually changing them. by Rubens in this elegant church, among
You will here find the masterpiece of which is his Hoh^ Family.
Vandyke, " The Crucijixiony This cele- Outside of St. Paul's Church is a repre-
brated artist must not be confounded with sentation of Calvary, a very singular com-
Peter Vandyke, who was also a distinguish- position. At the top of the eminence there
ed painter, and born at Amsterdam. An- is a figure of Christ on the cross at the ;
in the Cathedral: they are the "Crucifix- ly picture by Vandyke, of Christ Bearing
ion of Christ between the two Thieves," the Cross a Crucifixion, by Jordaens; and
;
and his " Dead Christ," who lies on a a curious picture, by Teniers, the father^
stone table, covered with straw. The art- representing the Seven Acts of Mercy.
514
Antwerp. [BELGIUM.] LiLGE.
liis best -works. " The Ecstasy of St. Au- Antiverp to London, via Harwich, every
gustine," by Vandyke, has justly obtained Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, by the
a world-wide notoriety. Great Eastern Railway Company's steam-
In St. Andrew's Church is a beautifully ers. (See advertisements.)
carved pulpit, representing Andrew and
Peter called from their nets l)y the Sav-
iour the figures by ^'(tn O'hee/, and tlie
:
ROUTE No. 135.
other portions executed by I'an IIool. Brussels to Liege and Veifiers (Spa), via
The altar here is also a fine piece of sculp- Namur, by rail. Time, 3 h. 5 m.; fare, 9
ture b}"^ Verbriiggpii. A medallion portrait fr. .00 c.
of Mary Queen of Scots, by Porbus, hangs The express route to Likge and Spa is via
against a pillar facing the right transept Lortvain (see Route No. 138).
it is attached to the monument of Barbara Xamur, the Sheffield of Belgium, con-
Maubray and Elizabeth Curie, two of the taining 2G,530 inhabitants (best hotel, Hotel
queen's ladies in waiting, and one of whom de Ho'laiide), is beautifully situated at the
received her last embrace previous to her junction of the Sambre and Meuse, but
execution. Notice in the left transept a contains few objects of interest to attract
Crncilixion of St. Andrew, by Otto Vennius, the notice of travelers. Should they stop,
the master of Kul)ens. the fortifications and citadel are well worth
The Hotel de Ville is a handsome build- a visit, as is the handsome cathedral of St.
ing of Italian architecture, containing sev- A ubin. It contains the mausoleum of Don
eral finely carved chimney-pieces and some John of Austria, the hero and conqueror of
excellent frescoes, by Baron Le;;s. The Lepanto.
new Bourse, near the //. St. Antoine, is a Xamur to Liege. Time, 1 h. 20 m. ; fare,
handsome building in the late Gothic 4 fr. 80 c.
style. The Theatre is devoted to French Liege, situated at the junction of the
plays, but performances only take place Ourtlie and Meuse, contains (1881) 121,787
between the months of September and inhabitants. Hotel de V Europe is a very
May. good and old-established house, in tlie
The house in which Rubens died was town. Liege is the Pittsburg of Bel-
situated in Rue de Rubens. After Rul)ens's gium. It cliiedy manufactures fire-arms,
death the Duke of Newcastle resided here, over 500,000 being yearly made here. It
and entertained Charles II, while in exile. contains a cannon-foundry, and manu-
One of the most interesting places to visit factories of spinning-machines and cutlery.
in Antwerp is the Zoological Gardens. The Liege was anciently an imperial free city,
large collection of beautiful birds and fine governed by bishops, Avho held the rank of
specimens of animals are not a whit infe- independent princes from the 10th century
i
rior to those of London. Antwerp is noted down to the French invasion of 1794. Al-
for the magnificence of its black silk, which though there are still some twenty churches
is a specialt}^ of this city. The oldest and remaining, tlie number was four times as
best house is that of J. II. Vanbellingon great in tlie middle of the 16th century.
I
and Max'n Suremont. The Belgian Faille The principal religious edifice is the Cathe-
and Levantine Washing Silks are much dral, which dates back to the 10th century.
esteemed in England and America. It contains some good paintings. The
An International Exhibition will be held carving of the oaken pulpit is magnificent.
in 1885, from May 1st to October 1st. Vis- The church of St. Jacques is most elal)o-
itors will find more and better accommoda- rately painted and gilded, and its painted
tion at Brussels. glass is considered the very perfection of
From Antuerp to Brussels. Time, 57 tiie art. Tlie Palais de Justice, formerly
m. ; fare, 3 fr. 35 c. the bishop's palace, was erected in the
From Antweip to Mechlin. Time, 27 early part of the 16th century b\- Bishop
ni. ; fare, 1 fr. 85 c. Erard de la Marck, a descendant of Sir
Vol. I.— Z 515
Spa. [BELGIUM.] Spa
"S^'alter Scott's William de la Marck, who was finally centred in the Redoute, by an
figures in his " Quentin Durward," the agreement with the government, by which
scene of which is laid at Liego. The watch- the company Avas to pay half its gains to
tower that rises above the Palais is now the state, and at the same time give balls
used as a prison. The Universit}-, a very and concerts in its saloons to tlie strangers
beautiful edifice, erected in 1817, contains who flocked to Spa, draAvn either by love
a Museum, in which is stored a fine collec- of gambling or by the reputation of th©
tion of fossil remains found in the neighbor- Avaters. The number of visitor/; attracted
hood. There is also a fine botanical gar- in this manner was very great until the
den attached. Outside the walls, in the year 1872, when, in accordance with an
midst of very elegant grounds, there is a agreement made by the Belgian and Ger-
Casino, in which balls are given. Stran- man governments, the gambling here was
gers are freely admitted. We would strong- stopped, as well as in Homburg, Wiesba-
ly recommend the traveler, if he has not den, Baden-Baden, etc.
read " Quentin Durward," to do so ere he Thanks to this suppression. Spa has
visits Liege, and when in the bishop's pal- again become, as it was formerly, frequent-
ace he may recognize much in Sir Walter ed b}- an elegant and choice society, drawn
Scott's novel. It is asserted by some writ- here by the beautv of the country and the
ers that Sir Walter never visited Liege, celebrity of the waters.
but it seems hard to reconcile that state- The sources or fountains are eight in
ment with his very accurate descriptions. number :
ange and de V Europe. The d' Orange, next 3. The Sauveni'ere has a more acid taste
to the Casino, is one of the most-frequented th in the Pouhon, and has the reputation
houses in Belgium. The de V Europe is a of curing sterility in women.
first class house, close to the English church 4. The Groesheck is employed in cases
and Casino. of gout, rlieumatism, gravel, etc.
Spa contains 6000 inhabitants, but this 5. The Geromtere contains both iron
population is more than doul)led during the and sulphur, and is eflicacious in cases of
season, which lasts from the 1st of May to bronchitis, asthma, and pulmonarj' aff"ec-
the 1st of Xovember. The Spa waters en- tions.
joyed a great reputation in the earliest 6. The Barisart contains also a slight
period of history, and are mentioned by quantity of sulphur, and is generally given
Pliny in his writings. In the Vlth. cent- to extremely delicate persons to habituate
ury strangers flocked here in search of them to the waters of Spa.
cure, and camped in tents round the dif- 7. The Marie Henriette, brought through
ferent sources. It was not until the 14th pipes to the town from a place two miles
century that Collin Leloup, having been distant, serves in strengthening the mus-
cured by the waters of Spa, obtained from cles, increasing the vitality of the organs,
the Prince of Liege a concession of land etc.
near the Pouhon, and erected a house for 8. The Champignon is used as a lotion in
the reception of strangers. Gambling- maladies of the eyes or inflammation of
houses, sanctioned by the government, the eyelids.
<vere established during the last century, As many maladies are more easily cured
/^t the end of which the Waux-hall,
Safle by external than by internal application
Levoz, and the Redoute were the three of the waters of Spa, a large bathing es-
great rival houses. The plav, however, tablishment has been erected, containing
516
Spa. [BELGIUM.] DiNANT.
fifty-four bath-rooms, furnished with all town and suburbs 45,000 persons arc
in the
necessary comfort.-^, and of exquisite clean- employed in making the cloth of Verviers,
ness. There are also several rooms for 820,000,000 in value being manufactured
douches, hot and cold for Russian baths
; here annually. Small baggage is here ex-
and vapor baths. amined preparatory to entering Prussia.
The promenades and excursions in the From Verviers to Aix-la-Chapelle. Time,
neighborhood of Spa are very beautiful 1 h. G m. ; fare, 2 fr. 70 c.
but as their attractions consist principally From Verviers to Cologne. Time, 2 h. 26
in the beauty of the scenery, our limits m. ; fare, 14 fr. 20 c.
will not allow a length}' description. '1 he Verviers Brussels, direct, via Liege and
to
Hotel d' Orange. Here gambling was late- Brussels to Bale, via Luxembourg (mail-
ly carried on. The building now con- route to Switzerland) in 14 h. 14 m. fare, ;
517
Marche. [BELGIUM.] Ghent.
Aye station. Population, 2340. Eight Railways run from here to Treves, to
miles distant lies Metz, and Strasburg, and to Pepinster by
—
March". Here ttie treaty known as the Diekirch and Spa.
Perpetual Edict was signed by Don John Luxembourg to Basle and Strasburg, see
of Austria and the States of the United Route No. 130.
Netherlands in 1577. The forest scenery
beyond here is very fine, and is Avell de- ROUTE No. 137.
scribed by Shakspeare as the "Forest of Brussels via Ghent and Bruges,
to Ostend,
Jemdle, omnibuses run in twenty min- ni.) fare, 9 fr. 30 c, and 9 fr. 50 c.
; Brus-
utes to sels to Ghent time, 1 h. 6 m. fare, 4 fr. 35
,-
;
a cross growing between its horns. This against its sovereign, and proposed to trans-
miraculous apparition caused him to re- fer its allegiance to his rival, Francis I.,
nounce the world, and to pass his remain- king of France, it forfeited its best privi-
ing days in penance and prayer. He aft- leges, and enormous subsidies were levied
erward acquired a great degree of sanc- on it, from the eflfect of which it never
tity, and was resorted to by an immense fully recovered. In 1400 the city of Ghent
number of pilgrims, upon whom various had 80,000 men capable of bearing arms,
miracles were worked. Not only his and has for five A-ears at a time withstood
hands, but his garments were efficacious the siege of its sovereign but, when con- ;
his leading them against their oppressor, ringing of its bell was the signal to collect
Louis de Male. the citizens together for the purpose of
One of the oldest relics in Ghent, and arming or deliberating. When the Empe-
perhaps in Belgium, is the tuiTeted gate- ror Charles V. punished tlie citizens of
way formerly belonging to the castle in Ghent for their insurrection by beheading
which John of Gaunt, or Ghent, was born; some, forfeiting the estates of others, and
it was built in 8G8, and Edward I IL, fa- compelling the corporation to demand par-
ther of John of Gaunt, resided here in 1338 : don on their knees, barefooted and bare-
it is situated in Place Pharililde. headed, witii ropes around their necks,
The principal building in Ghent is the even this if// wj!S punished for aiding in the
Paldce oflh' University. It was founded by insurrection by calling the inhabitants to-
William" I., king of Holland, in 181G. It gether, and was taken down from the tower.
contains an amphitheatre capable of hold- The only nunnery in Ghent that lus
ing IGOO persons, where prizes are distribu- survived the dissolution of these institu-
ted to the students of the University there tions is the Grande Beguinage.
; It is a
are also a library and cabinets of natural small town in itself, is surrounded with a
history and comparative anatomy. The moat, and contains streets, squares, and
Cathedral of St. Bavon, founded in 9-il, ex- promenades within its walls. It is inhab-
ternally has a very ordinary appearance, ited by 600 nuns, many of them of noble
but the interior is unrivaled by any church blood. They are bound by no particular
in Belgium. It is entirely lined with black vow, and may return to the world when-
marble the balustrades and pillars, which ever they please, but there is no case on
;
are of pure white or variegated Italian mar- record where they have ever availed them-
ble, form a beautiful contrast. Over the selves of this privilege. They may all be
choir are placed the arms of the Knights seen, at the hour of ve?pors. in the chapel.
of the Golden Fleece. Philip IF. of Spain They attend the sick in the hospitals and
held the last chapter here in 1559. This private houses, aad are considered excel-
church contains many very valuable pict- lent nurses.
ures, chief among which are Rubens's St. There are about 20,000 persons employ-
Bavon Renouncing the Profession of Sol- ed in Ghent in bleaching, cotton-printing,
dier, and the brothers Van Eyck's Adora- and thread factories lace-making, woolen,
;
tion of the Lamb : this is one of the most silk, and linen manufactures, are of con-
celebrated pictures in Europe. It was siderable importance. It has many ex-
taken to Paris by Napoleon, and only the tensive sugar-refinories, distilleries, brew-
body of the picture was returned ; the eries, and tanneries, with manufactories of
wings or shutters that inclosed it are pre- chemical products, and cutlery
oil-cloths,
served in the Museum at Berlin. Con- machinery, and enjoys a large trade in ag-
sidering it is 430 years since this picture ricultural produce.
was painted, the coloring is most remark- Ghent has given birth to many distin-
able; it looks as pure as the first day it guished individuals, among whom may be
left its painter's hands. mentioned Charles V. of Germany, John
The church of St. Michael contains the of Gaunt, son of Edward III., Jacques van
once famous picture of the " Crucifxion," Artaveldt, '"the Brewer of Ghent,"' and
by Vandyke, but it has been ruined by his son Philip.
modern restorers. There are several fine This city was pillaged by the Danes,
modern paintings in this church. There under Hastings, when repulsed from En-
are numerous other churches, such as St. gland belonged successively to the Counts
:
Peter, St. Martin, and St. Nicholas, all of of Flanders and Dukes of Burgmidv. \r
which contain very fine paintings. 1G7S it was taken by Louis XIV., and iu
Near the Cathedral of St. Bavon is situa- 170(5 by Marlborough.
ted the fiimous Befry J'o^er, founded 1183. The treaty of peace between the United
Its summit is ornamented with a copper States of America and Great Britain was
dragon taken from the city of Bruges in concluded here in 1814. Louis XVIII.
1445 its loAver part is now used as a prison
; took refuge in Ghent in 1815. The largest
it formerly served as a watch-tower, and cannon in Europe is here the diameter of
;
Bmges contains a population of 51,539 her horse, during her pregnancy, while out
inhabitants. Principal hotel, and a very hawking with her husband, and killed, at
good one, is the Grund JJotel du Com- the early age of 25. Her father" s monu-
merce, with fine garden. This town is, like ment was erected half a century later
Ghent, traversed by numerous canals and (1558) by his grandson, Philip II. of Spain.
bridges, from whence it derives its name. They are both alike ; the effigies are richly
Bruges was formerly the capital and resi- gilded bronze and silver, and lie on slabs
dence of the counts of Flanders, who re- of black marble. The duke is decorated
sided here from the 9th to the 15th cen- with the Order of the Golden Fleece. A
tury in the loth century it was one of
; fee of 50 cents ischarged to inspect the
the most commercial cities in the world, monuments. The church is open at 4
and even in the 7th century was a pros- P.M.
perous seat of manufacturing and com- ;
The Cathedral of St. Sjiweur is an ugly
mercial industry. In 1430, Philip the building on the exterior, being built of
Good, Duke of Burgundy, here instituted brick, but the interior is perhaps one of
the Order of the Golden Fleece; and dur- the finest in Bruges. The choir and aisles
ing his reign the wealth and splendid at- date from the 12th century, and the nave
tire of the citizens of Bruges v.'cie sub-
J
from the 14th. The arms of the Knights
jects of extreme wonder. of the Golden Fleece may be seen above
Bruges has pi-eserved all the peculiar- the stalls. Notice a fine picture by Peter
ities which distinguished its appearance Porbus of the Last Supper ;the MartjT-
in the Middle Ages, although presenting a 1
dom of St. Hippolytus, hanging in the
mournful aspect of desolation. Southey, ; south aisle, is falsely attributed to Hans
in his " Pilgrimage to Waterloo," describes Memling.
its ancient grandeur In the Hospital of St. John (admission,
" Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame
on payment of a small fee, from 9 to 12
The SBiison of her splendor is gone by, and 1 to 6) are a number of very fine
Yet every where its monuments remain paintings, by Hans 3IemHng.
: The most
Temples wliich rear their stately heads on interesting of these are to be seen on the
liigh,
coffin in which the arm of St. L'rsula is
Canals that intersect the fertile plain
"Wide streets and squares, with many a court i
kept. On the sides are painted the diflfer-
and hall. ent subjects from the storj' jof this saint
—
Spacious and undefaced but ancient all,
j
^^fe§l/7p^
',4"
iiiiii4jpii
<aauoubux
[BELGIUiM.] LOUVAIN.
OSTEND.
tal is an elegant new building, next to the
In the Hotel de Ville is the public libra- I
containing many rare and valuable Casino, with two hundred beds in rooms
ry, |
manuscripts. There may aUo bo. seen the facinjir the ocean. Very fine restaurant,
The Hotel de la Plage is
scheme of a lottery drawn in Bruges in piazza, and
lift.
light-house.
At the Academy of Painting and Cathe- \
time, 24 m. ;fare, 2 fr. Del Bouille will give reliable local infor-
Ostend, a city of 21,200 inhabitants, the mation to travellers
needing it.
finest and most-frequented bathing resort Steamboats for Dover in connection with
on the Continent; summer residence of the all express train.'?. Two departures
daily
of the Belgians, who owns here a from Ostend, at 10.5 A.M. and at 8
P.M.;
King
magnificent palace by the seaside. The two departures daily from Dover to Ostend,
soirees dansantes and the grand balls of the lin, 19 h. 30 m.; from
Bdle, 19 h. 30 m.;
Casino are much frequented. from Vienna, ."9 h. 30 m. from .S7. Peters-;
To
The pleasures of the season are much burg, 5G h. from Brussels, 2 h. 35 m. ^
;
fare, 37 fr. 50 c.
varied by grand pigeon-shooting matches, Cologne ; time, 11 h. 19 m. ;
regattas, horse-races, concerts, balls, fetes(Sleeping-car 6.4 P.M., 10.30 P.M. from
of every description at the Casino and in Cologne, 10 marks.)
the beautiful Park Leopold. ROUTE
Xo. 138.
The Ostend Sea-Bat/is are renowned for
Brussels to Louvain and Liege ; time, 1 h.
the beauty of the beach and the evenness
7 fr. GO c. Brussels to Co-
and finene.-^s of the sand-bed. They are 54 ra. ; fare,
5 h. 11 m. ; fare, 23 fr. 70 c.
administered by the city with the greatest logne ; time,
11 P.:^L from Cologne, 10.30
regard for the visitors. On an average, (Sleeping-car ;
8 marks.)
150,000 baths are taken yearly. Strangers P.M.,
from all countries frequent the baths of Louvain is an ancient town of 31,930 in-
situated on the Dyle. Hotel de
Ostend, as well as the creme of Belgian habitants,
Suede. It is inclosed on one side by an
societ}', many noble Russian families, and
especially a great number of Germans, of earthen
rampart, from 80 to 100 feet in
whom it has become the favorite summer height, from the top of which a fine view
resort, since tlie Emperor of Germany pass- of the
town is obtained.
ed several successive seasons there. The finest building here is the Hotel de
begun in 14-18,
The city has been considerably enlarged ViUe, a Gothic structure,
14G9, and most elaborately
and embeilished since the demolition, three finished in
on the exterior. It has of late
years ago, of the surrounding fortifications, decorated
'and, thanks to a grand paved promenade years
been entirely renovated, and pos-
on the new dike, lined by elegant villas. sesses no less than 250 statues, Avhich
the niches of the towers and
Hotels : Fontaine, Continental, de la Plage. stand in
In the niches on the
and du Ph'ire. The Hottl Fontaine is a three fa(;ades.
fioor, statues of celebrated per-
large, lirst-class, and old-established house ground
close to the sea and Casino, enjoying also a sons
born at Louvain, or of those who
services to the town,
European reputation. The Ih'tel Continen- have rendered great
521
LouvAiN. [BELGIUM.] Ypres.
alone are placed. The interior of the remains of an old Castle, called the Cha-
building is interesting, but its collection teau de Cesar, built by the Emperor Arnold
of pictures not remarkable. in 890, to repel the invasion of the Nor-
The church of St. Peter was founded as mans. The Emperor Charles V. was edu-
early as 1010, but the existing building cated here, together with his sister, bv
dates only from the 15th century. Its Andrien Boyens, afterwards Pope Adrian
principal object of interest is a Holy VI.
Family by Qu r/tin Mat^ys, which hangs Continuing on our route to Liege we
in a side chapel back of the high -altar. pass
On its shutters the Death of St. Anne Tirlemont, a thriving town
of 12,260 in-
'and the Expulsion of Joachim from the habitants, extensively man-
where cloth is
who was chosen bishop, owing to the The mail-route from Brussels to Calais ii
miraculous descent of a dove upon his via Lille, in 4 h. 23 m. fare, 22 fr. 5 c. ;
;
16th century considered the first in Eu- Leaving Brussels by the Station du Nord,
rope, being then, as now, principally a we soon reach
school of Koman Catholic theology. At 0"denarde, situated on the Scheldt. Pop-
that time was frequented by 6000 stu-
it
ulation, 6300. Jl6tel Pomme d'Or. This
dents, and had 43 colleges, endowed by pi- town was the birthplace of Margaret, Duch-
ous founders, dependent upon it the col-
:
ess of Parma, natural daughter of Charles
leges are now reduced to 20, with greatly v., and governess of the Netherlands under
diminished funds, and the number of pupils Philip II. It contains a beautiful Hotfl
isabout 600. de Vil'e of the 16th century, two fine
The Weavers' Hall, erected in 1317, has —
churches that of St. Wcdhurga containing
been appropriated bj' the University.
In St. Gertrude's Church notice the
an Assumption by Crayer and an ancient —
A
tower called Flet SaecTcsen. female figure
carved oak stalls, with their detached with a wreath of immortelles, by Geefs,
groups and exquisite bas-reliefs they;
stands at the entrance of the town, to com-
date from the 15th century, and are con- memorate the Belgian volunteers killed in
sidered the finest in Belgium. This Mexico in 1865.
church was originally the chapel of the Courtrai, see Route No. 133.
dukes of Brabant.
I'lwes contained in the 14th centurv no
St. Mirhael's Church contains some less than 200,000 inhabitants, chiefly en-
good modern paintings by De Keyser. gaged in the manufacture of linen, at which
Wappers, and Matthv u.
period no less tlian 4000 looms were worked.
Louvain is now chiefly famous for its The population is now reduced to 17,600,
beer, of which 200.000 casks are brewed
and thread and thread-lace are the principal
annually, and mostly exported. The articles now manufactured.
Brewers' Guild stands opposite the Hotel
The Cathedral of St. Martin contains a
de Ville.
fine painting attril)uted to Van Eyck, with
Just outside the Mechlin gate stand the
the date 1525. The finest building the
522
POPERINGHE. [BELGIUM.] Moss.
town contains is the town-hall, a Gothic pilgrims, and believed to have worked many
edifice surmounted by a belfry-tower, with miracles. Notice the reredos of the high-
frescoes in the great hull Ijy Stverts and altar, in marble, carved by Mone, a native
Gruffins. The front is ornamented with artist (1533). The sacristy of this church
44 statues of counts of Flanders down to was once rich in gold-plate and other votive
the time of Charles V. gifts offered to the Virgin by Charles V.,
In the Convent of the Pauvres Clercs is Maximilian I., Henry VIII., and other
the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect of devotees, but much of it was appropriated
Jansenists ; he was Bishop of Ypres, and by the French during the Revolution. A
died in 1G83. silver monstrance, presented by Henry
The Belgian School of Cavalry is at VIII. after the capture of Tournai, is still
Ypres. to be seen.
Poperinr/he is an uninteresting town of A railway runs direct from Hal, via Lille,
11,000 inhabitants, caiTying on some trad 3 to Calais. Time from Brussels, 4 h. 23 m.
in hemp. Mons, a fortified town of 26,900 inhabit-
At Ooest Cappel is situated the French ants, owes its origin to a stronghold erected
custom-house. here by Julius Caesar during a campaign
For continuation of this route, see Route against the Gauls. (Hotels, Garin and Jioy-
No. 133. al). A tower, or beffroi, erected in 1GG2, oc-
cupies the site of Caesar's castle the more
;
north and south are about one hundred thing was prepared for an inundation.
and fifty miles its mean breadth is about
;
The climate of HoUand is colder than tne
one hundred miles. The area of the prov- opposite coasts of England in similar lati-
iunes at present constituting the kingdom tudes, and the winter is generally severe.
—
of the Netherlands that is, including the The atmosphere is very moist, owing to the
duchies of Limburg and Luxemburg—is abundance of water. The eastern prov-
13,598 square miles. The population, not inces are drier and more healthy than
'
of the country, indeed, toward the coast, In the second century Holland was over-
is even lower than the level of the adja- run by the Saxons. In the eighth it waa
cent ocean — in some places as much as conquered by Charles Martel ; and it sub^
forty feet below high-water mark. But sequently formed part of Charlemagne's
the sea is prevented from overflowing the dominions. For four centuries it was gov.
land, partly by natural and partly by artifi- erned by the Dukes of Brabant and Counts
cial means, along the eastern shores of the of Holland and Flanders. In the latter
Zuyder-Zee. The sea is shut out by enor- part of the fourteenth century it passed, by
mous artificial mounds or dikes, which marriage, into the hands of the Dukes of
are constructed chiefl}- of earth and clay, Burgundy, then to the house of Austria
sloping gradually from the sea, and usual- and lastl}', in 1548, to the Emperor Charles
ly protected in the most exposed parts hj V. Philip II., jealous of the liberties en-
a facing of wicker-work, formed of wil- joyed by the Dutch, and for the purpose
lows interlaced together. Sometimes their of extirpating the Reformed faith, which
bases are faced with masonry, and in some had taken firm root in Holland, dispatched
places they are defended by a breastwork a powerful army under the Duke Alva
of piles, intended to break the force of the but the Dutch, instead of being subdued,
waves. The preservation of the dikes in were driven into open rebellion, and after
good condition is an ol)ject of constant at- a fearful struggle, the independence of the
,
repair amounts to a large sum annually. XIV., and extended her conquests in the
The cost of each dike is defrayed by a tax east and Avest.
laid on the surrounding lands. From the timo of Louis XIV. down to the
The general aspect of Holland is differ- Revolution the position of Holland eradu-
ent from that of any other country in Eu- ally declined (see Motley's "Dutch Repub-
rope. Its surface presents one grand net- lic"). Notwithstanding the policy of Hol-
work of canals, Avhich are there as numer- land had long been peaceful, it could not
ous as roads in any other country, the pur- protect her from being overrun by rcA'olu-
I
poses of which indeed they, for the most tionary France. Napoleon constituted her
part, answer. The facility with which the a kingdom for his brother Louis, father of
,
country may be laid under water con- the present emperor. I In 1815, after the
tributes materially to its strength in a mil- downfall of Bonaparte, she was united to
'
itary point of view. This, indeed, is not a Belgium by interested parties, and againpt
j
guished by their habits of cleanliness, in- the green before the door so industriously;
dustry, frugality, and attention to busi- the Dutch character impressed on every
ness. Every thing in the aspect of Hol- thing Dutch, and intuitively recognized,
I
land bespeaks this fact. The towns are like the Jewish or Gipsy countenance,
uniformly clean, regular, and well built wherever it is met with the people, their
I
;
the private dwellings, in which order, econ- dwellings, and all in or about them
, their —
omy, and quiet always present the ascend- very moven;ents make this Holland no —
ency and the open country, divided into dull unimpressive land.
;
well-drained and carefully cultivated fields, The Hollander has a decided taste for
rich meadows, or productive tracts of gar- the romantic. Great amateurs are the
den-land. Drunkenness is rarely met with Mynheers of the rural districts. Every
in Holland, and the general absence of Dutchman above the necessity of working
beggars, even in the largest towns, at- to-day for the bread of to-morrow has his
tracts the admiring notice of the stranger. garden-house (JjUjjteplaats) in the suburbs
The out-door amusements of the Dutch of his town, and repairs to it on Saturday
take their form and coloring from the as- evening, with his family, to ruralize until
pect and climate of their country. Dur- Monday over his pipe of tobacco. Dirk
ing the prolonged severity of the winter Hatteraick, we are told in Guy Mannering,
season, many sports are performed on the did so. It is the main extravagance of
ice ; at other periods of the year, fishing is the Dutch middle-class man. and it is often
a favorite amusement. The habits of the an expensive one. This garden-house is
town population are sedentary and with; a wooden box, gayly painted, of eight or
the peoi>le of town and countr}' alike, and —
ten feet square its name, "My Delight,"
with all ranks and classes, smoking is a or " Rural Felicity," or "' Sweet Solitude,"
taste that is uniformly indulged. Among stuck up in gilt tin letters on the front,
the fine arts, painting is that which has and situated usuallv at the end of a narrow
been most liberally and successfully culti- slip of ground, inclosed on three sides by
vated. The peasantry of lioth Holland and well -trimmed hedges and slimy ditches,
Flanders have their peculiar local costume, and overhanging the canal, which forms
shown in the wide-spreading breeches of the boundary of the garden-plot on its
the men and the short jackets of the wom- fourth side.
en. The higher classes, however, are gen- The slip of land is laid out in Hower-
erally attired either in the French or Ger- bcds, all the flowers in one bed being gen-
man style, Holland can boast of nothing erally of one kind and color and the brill-
;
— for close, compact, snug home scenery, the white, and green, and paint-work, and
with every thing in harmony, and stamped the gilding about the garden-houses and ;
with one strong peculiar character Hol- — a row of these glittering fairy summer
land is a cabinet picture in which nature lodges shining in tlie sun upon the side of
and art join to produce one impression, one the wide canal, and swimming in humid
homogeneous efifect. brilliancy in the midst of plots and par-
The Dutch cottage, with its glistening terres of splendid flowers, and with the ac-
brick walls, white-painted wood-work and companiments of gayly dressed ladies at tho
rails, and its massive roof of thatch, with windov.s, swiftly passing pleasure -boats
the stork clappering to her young on the with briglit l)urnislicd sides below, and a
old-established nest on the top of the galde, whole city population afloat or on foot, en-
is admirably in place and keeping, just joying themselves in their holiday clothes
where it is, at the turn of the canal, shut — form, in truth, a summer-evening sceno
in by a screen of willow-trees or tall reeds which dwells upon you with much delight.
from seeing or being seen beyond the sun- Coffee, tea, beer, and native gin, but espe-
ny bright of the still calm water, in which ciallv the first, are the favorite drinks.
Government, etc. [HOLLAND.] Army and Navy, etc.
"When "we say that there are nearly ten expenses 130 millions, leaving a profit of
thousand windmills in Holland, it will be 11 millions. Holland also possesses some
readily understood that they are hardly small islands in the West Indies, with a
ever out of sight in a Dutch landscape. population of over 41,000.
They are used for every purpose for which —
Army. The army of Holland consists
we use the steam-engine. Their sails are im- of 61.208 soldiers and 2060 officers, divided
mense, averaging 8 feet broad and 100 long. into 44,982 infantry, 4506 cavalry, and
Holland is now a constitutional mon- 11,720 artillery. The colonial army con-
archy, hereditary in the family of the sists of 35,420 men.
Princes of Orange, founders of the inde- —
Navy. The navy in 1876 consisted of 87
pendence of the country. The king is also steam vessels, armed with 386 cannon and ;
Grand-Duke of Luxembourg, in which ca- 18 sailing vessels, armed with 119 cannon.
pacity he belongs to the German confed- The imports average about 670 millions
j
eration. He nominates all civil and mili- of florins, and the exports 510 millions.
tary officers, proposes and promulgates the ;
The public debt in 1876 was 922,741,326
laws, declares war, and makes peace. The florins. The annual budget is in the
present king, William IIL, now in his 61st vicinity of 110 millions of florins.
3'ear, is liberal in his ideas, and exceeding- |
Accounts in Holland are kept in guild-
\y popular with his people. The States- ers and stivers. 1 guilder, or Dutch florin,
General consist of two chambers. The = 20 stivers — 20 cents United States cur-
FirstChamber is composed of 39 members, rency. Travelers should provide them-
electedby the conseils generaux. The Sec- selves with Dutch money as soon as they
ond Chamber is composed of 80 members, enter Holland.
elected 1 out of every 4500 inhabitants,
j
The Custom authorities are particularly
Tie States-General are convoked annual- !
American travelers.
civil to
'
ly, and one third part of the Second Cham- The English and French languages are
ber is annually selected. spoken in the principal hotels.
All persons are
eligible to office. Travelers are a good deal annoyed by
\
After the fall of Xapoleon I., Belgium hotel touters and commissionaires on arriv-
and Holland were united, under the title ing at stations, who are generally a bad
of the Kingdom of the Pays-Bas, or Low lot. Go only to the hotels recommended
Countries, and given to William I., Prince in your guides. Insist on the cabman pro-
of Orange (the younger branch of the House ducing his printed tarifil The cabs are
of Nassau), and grandfather to the present called viffVantes, and tariff tarief. Omni-
sovereign. In 1830 Belgium and Holland buses run to the different stations.
were separated. Traveling in Holland is nearly as high
|
William II., father of William III., died as in England, which is the most expen-
March 17, 18-19. sive country in Europe. The first-class
— '
William III. Alexander Paul Frederick hotels are all good. Bedrooms cost from
Louis —
was born February 19, 1817, and 2 to 3 guilders dinners (at four o'clock), :
daughter of the King of WUrtemberg. He or coffee, with bread and butter, 15 stivers.
ascended the throne on the death of his Mineral waters are mostly drunk, ordi-
father, March 17, 1849. nary water not being considered good.
William IIL has two sons —
William,
|
at the Hague, August 25, 1851. the Hague, every first-class gallery' in Eu-
|
The Queen of Holland died last year rope points with pride to its specimens
i
Most direct routes to Holland. — From on which the fleet sets sail, is kept as a
London Rotterdam, via the Great East-
to universal holiday. The first herrings
ern Railway, three times a week, Tues- caught are generally forwarded as a pres-
days, Thui'sdays, and Saturdays, in 14 h. ent to the king and his court.
30 ni. ; fare, 8G 25 or, via (Jabis and
; Farther up the river, a short distance
Brussels. Time, 17 h. ; fare, $15 25. inland, situated on the banks of the Schie,
From Paris Rotterdam, vi
to Mens, i surrounded by windmills, and enveloped
Brussels, and Antwerp. Time, 10 h. 25 ni. in smoke arising from its hundreds of
fare, 50 fr. 70 c. chimneys, is the celebrated town of Schie-
Two or three weeks can be used with dam, which contained a population in 1876
prolit in Holland, althouj^h many travelers of 21,5.S2, nearly all of whom are occupied,
hurriedly "do" it in one week, visiting directly or indirectly, with the manufact-
only the Hague, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, ure and export of the celebrated Schiedam
Saardam, Haarlem, and Broek. Schnapps, a gin here distilled from the
Two weeks, at least, should be devoted juniper berry, mostly called jenever, from
to its sights, visiting Rotterdam, Delft, j
juniper. There are between three and
Hague, Leyden, Haarlem, Amsterdam, Alk- i four hundred distilleries in the town, and
maar, Helder, Medembleck, Broek, Saar- its exportation of gin is immense. There
dam, Utreclit, Arnhem, Deventer, Loo, is a small port, an exchange, Ilnti-l de Ville,
ZwoUe, Leeuwarden, the Pauper Agricul- and other public edifices. As the distance
tural Colonies, and Groningen. from Rotterdam is only four and a half
In entering Holland from England the miles, those interested in gin-cocktails and
steamer passes through the J/aas, com- such like can make an excursion from the
bined of the Rhine and Maas, a distance town.
of eighteen miles from Rotterdam, passing As most travelers are likely to enter
first the fortified town of Briel, noted as Holland from Antwerp, we will continue
having been the first town captured from our routes with
the Spaniards by the Dutch, under Will-
iam de la Marck, in 1572, and which be-
came the nucleus of the Dutch Republic.
The attack was headed by the brave Gucnx
de Mer, and was the first attempt at open
resistance to the government of Philip II. of
Spain. Briel is noted as the birthplace of
Admiral Van Tromji. The town is situated
on the island of Voorn, and is eight miles
from Rotterdam. Custom-house officers
come on board here to examine luggage.
Five miles above Briel is the Canal of
Voorden, cut through the island of Voorn, ROUTE No, Ml.
through which large vessels pass from the From Antwerp Rotterdam, by rail.
to
head-quarters of the Dutch Herring Fish- situated, and travelers' baggage is exam-
ery, which employs over two hundred ves- ined. From here two railways l>ranch otf,
sels. Tlie fishing season commences al)out one west to Hcrgen-op-Zoom, and another
the middle of June. On the 11th of that northeast to Breda.
month the leaders of the herring fleet take Jltrgcn-op-Zoom is a strongly fortified
an oath in the Stadhuis to act according town of 8500 inhabitants, situated in the
to the laws of the fishery and on the 14th
;
midst of marshy grounds, which can be
of the month nearly all the inhabitants of easily tlooded at any moment. It is a town
the town repair to the church to pray for which, owing to its many sieges,
has an in-
a prosperous season. The following day. I
teresting historical record, but possessing
527
MiDDLEBURG. [HOLLAND.] Rotterdam.
erected by Charles the Bold in li68, and ries at Moerdijk over the Hollands-Diep
decorated with colossal statues of counts at Dort over the Merwe ; and at Rotter-
and countesses of Flanders, twenty-five in dam over the Maas. A railway bridge has
number. Hans Lippershay, a spectacle- '
burg (16U1). j
a tidal river of 82U0 feet, and consists of 14
\_Breda, 15 miles froni Roosendaal, on
. spans, with a swing-bridge at the southern
the road to Utrecht, is an almost inacces- extremity each of these spans is 328 feet
;
al. Nearly all of the houses have two new Pal ice of Justice, Admi-
Stadthousc,
small mirrors outside the windows, the one ralty, and Dock-yard. The town contains
reflecting up, the other down
the street: many charitable institutions, the central
the arrangement is such that all that pass- prison of the Netherlands, and many supe-
es outside may be seen without going to rior schools. Erasmus was born here in
the Avindow and being seen yourself. This 1407. The house of his birth is still pre-
contrivance is very general in every city served, and there is a bronze statue of the
and town in Holland. Reformer in the market-place. There is
Since 1830 the commerce of Rotterdam nothing that will more amuse the traveler
has increased more rapidly than that of during a da}" than walking about the streets
any other town in the Netherlands, it being and canals he will be struck with the odd-
;
much more favorably situated for trade ity of every thing, so entirely different from
than Amsterdam. his own country. There is a very fine bo-
There are some hundred fine merchant- tanical garden, and several refreshment
ships belonging to this port, which carry gardens outside the gates; also several
on quite a trade with the AN'est Indies in clubs within the city. At the west end
sugar, coffee, and spices ; Avhile the trade of the town is the Neio Park, with beau-
in provisions, chiefly in corn, brought down tiful grounds. Military concerts every
the Rhine for export to England, is very Sunday at one o'clock, when all the beauty
great. Ship-building is also carried on to of Rotterdam turns out in its best habili-
some extent. Its trade with Java and ments. Notice within the park a white
Sumatra is of great extent, it being a great marble statue of Holland's favorite poet,
emporium for Java coffee. It has regu- Tollens.
lar communication with London, Havre, The Zoological Gardens are situated out-
Hamburg, and the diftercnt ports of the side the Delft Gate, and contain some beau-
Baltic, and exports largely in flax and tiful birds.
madder. On the other side of the Maas (reached
Rotterdam was an important town in the \)y a steam ferry-boat) is Fiftuoord. noted
eighth century, and received its charter in for its steam dock-yards.
1270. It was taken by the Flemish in Barges, called here trekschuitcn, start on
1297. It was surprised and captured by the canals every hour for Delft. Fare,
Francois de Brederode, at the head of the 40 cents; time, 2 h. and for the Hague,:
—
representing the engagement in which he Maurice an elegant building of the 17th
was killed. This church has a leaning century. The lion of this collection is
tower. Near it is the Prinzenho/,' the the Young Bull, by Paul Potter, a picture
house in which the prince was shot. The which occupies nearlv the whole end of one
house was originally the Convent of St. of the rooms. This highly prized work of
Agatha. An inscription on a stone records art was carried off to Paris by order of
the event below which are three holes, Napoleon, and hung up in the Louvre,
;
said to be those made by the poisoned bul- where it was considered the fourth in val-
lets which killed him. He expired in the ue in that collection, which is the largest
arms of his Avife, who was a daughter of in the world, though not the most valua-
the famous Admiral Coligny, Marechal of ble. The Dutch government offered Na-
France, who perished one of the first vic- poleon one hundred thousand dollars if he
530
The Hague. [HOLLAND.] The Hague.
would allow it to remain at the Hague. visited only from 10 to 1. There is a very
The picture represents a young l)ull with good catalogue for sale.
white and brown spot?, a cow reclining The King's J'u'ace, which is near the
on the greensward before it, two or tliree Museum, is built in the Grecian style, but
sheep, and an aged cowherd leaning over is not particularly beautiful within or
a fence. The figures are all life size, and, Avithout. It contains the state-rooms in
unlike large pictures, every thing will en- which the King gives audience to his sub-
dure the closest inspection. It is Potter's jects every Wednesday. The Palace of
masterpiece, and is valued at 625,000. Paul (he Prince of Orange contains a very good
Potter was born at Enklniysen, in Holland, collection of Dutch paintings, and a large
in 1G25. His ])articular forte lay in paint- collection of chalk drawings, by the old
ing animals. He died in 1C54. The next masters. It was formerly the property of
work of art in importance is l)y Rembrandt Sir Thomas Lawrence. The liinnenhof i%
it is the dissection of a dead man by a pro- a handsome, irregular, Gothic building, for-
fessor and his pupils. Paul Rembrandt merly the residence of the Counts of Hol-
was born in 1606. He was very celebrated land. It is now occupied by different
as a portrait-painter; he also painted some government offices, and the chambers in
historical pictures. He died in 1674. There which the States-General meet.
are several other fine pictures by him in The Hague contains a large number of
the Museum. churches, public and private schools, a
One of the finest pictures in this col- state-prison, a library' of 100,000 volumes,
lection Poussin's Venus Asleep : a satjT
is with a large collection of medals, gems,
is drawing off the drapery. This artist etc. There are two or three private gal-
was one of the most celebrated historical leries of paintings that are well worth a
painters the world has ever produced he : visit; those of M. Steengracht and M.
was born at Andelys in 1594 studied a ; Weimar are the principal. The latter are
long time at Rome was high in fiivor
; mostly miniatures in the former are some
;
with Louis XIII. and Cardinal Richelieu. fine Rembrandts and Tenierses. They must
He died at Rome, in the 72d year of his be visited before 12 o'clock a fee should be
:
age. There are several other splendid given to the servant. There is a fine bronze
pictures by Gerard Douw, Holbein, Keyzer, equestrian statue of William I., Prince of
Albert Diirer some of Wouvermans's best
;
Orange, near the Museum. It was erected
specimens a storm at sea, by Horace
; in 1848.
Vernet two fine portraits, by Rubens his
; — In the 0th century the Hague was only
first and second wives; a hunting scene, by a hunting-lodge. In 1250 William II. built
Snyders a landscape, by Rul)ens.
; a palace. In the IGth century it became
The lower floor of the Maurits Huis the seat of government, but it ceased to be
contains the Bot/al Cabinet of curiosities, the capital in iNOfi, when Napoleon created
which, for its size, is one of the most inter- the Kingdom of Holland and removed the
esting ever visited, and it is by no means capital to Amsterdam. In 1x14, on the
small. It comprises costumes of the Chi- downfall of Napoleon, the seat of govern-
nese and Japanese of difl'orent ranks, his- ment was again located at the Hague. It
torical relics of eminent persons, large col- has been the scene of numerous treaties
lections of Japanese-ware, weapons, coats in 1630, between France and Holland; in
of mail, and surgical instruments. Among 1658, between France, Holland, and En-
the relics is the dress worn by William, gland in 1701, between the Empire, En-
;
Prince of Orange, the day he was murder- gland, and Prussia against France.
ed at Delft, the shirt and waistcoat worn The Zoological and Botanica' Gardens
by William III. of England the three last contain numerous interesting specimens of
days of his life, sword of Van Speyk, the 1 animals and plants.
armor of Admiral \'an Tromp, a portion of j
At the T/ienfir, French and Dutch
the bed in Avhich Peter the Great slept in operas are performed alternate nights
his hut at Zaandam, also a model of his during the season, or four times a week
cabin. The picture-gallery and museum during the autumn and winter.
are open daily from 9 A. M. to 3 P. M., The Public Baihs are situated behind
except Sunday; on Saturday it may be the cathedral. In the Wilkns Park is a
531
SCHEVENIXGEX. [HOLLAND.] Katwijk.
monument to Frederick William, Prince of
I
30 professors. This is one of the most dis-
Orange. tinguished schools in Europe, and the to^\-Ti
William III. of England was born at the j
long maintained the appellation of the
Hague. j
''Athens of the West." It has a very
We would most strongly advise travel- 1 valuable museum attached to it. The town
ers not to leave the Hague without visit- j
is surrounded by a moat. It has eight
ing 'T Huis in Bosch, or " The House in
't i
gates, but its ramparts have been changed
the Woods." was the residence of the
It I
into promenades. It is divided by the
late Queen of Holland, who died in 1877. j
Rhine into numerous islets, connected by
It is reached by the elegant promenade the '
stone bridges.
Voorhout, a fine wide road lined with ele- In a tea-garden in the centre of the town
gant mansions and rows of trees. "The stand the ruins of a round tower, said to
House in the Woods" stands in the centre
I
have been constructed by Drusus Ger-
of a finely wooded park, embellished with manicus about the commencement of
artificial lakes and lovely gardens. Exter- the Christian era.
nally it is of an unpretending character, The Stadhuis, or town -hall, contains
but within it has such an appearance of the some very fine pictures among them is a
:
luxurious home ! The Queen's apartments portrait of the brave burgomaster, Peter
teemed with exquisite little gems of paint- ! Vanderwerf, who so bravely defended the
ings, statuettes, bronzes, etc., likenesses of town when besieged by the Spaniards in
the late Emperor Napoleon III. and the 1574. The inhabitants lived on dogs, cats,
Empress Eugenie predominating. The bill- and rats for weeks after their provisions
iard-room is hung with family portraits. had given out. They were finally relieved
The Orange Hall, or ball-room, is most by the Prince of Orange, who inundated
magnificent in paintings. Ceiling, walls, 1
the country. There is a monument erect-
and all are covered. Part of its ceiling was ed to his memory in the Church of St.
painted by Rubens, and part by Jordaens ;
Pancras. There is also a picture by Wap-
while Jordaens, Hondthorst, and others pers representing the siege. Among other
finished the walls. Many of the rooms '
its flowers, its l)utterflies, its birds! Oh, ural History (open from 9 to 3), which is
'
what music! The most gorgeous descrip- one of the finest in Europe, there are some
;
tion in " The Arabian Nights" would not do remarkable mineral productions, among
justice to it. Every thing was fresh as the which is the largest topaz in the world
breath of spring, blooming as a rosebud, also a piece of native gold weighing nearly
and fragrant as an orange-tiower. 17 pounds. The Botanical Gardens, Dr.
About 3 miles from the Hague is the Siebold's Japanese Collection (open daily
watering-place oi Scheveningen (population from 9 to 3; fee, half-guilder), and the
9000), which is very fashionable during the Egyptian Collection are all well worth see-
season. Apartments may be had at any ing. A visit should be made to the Prome-
price, although the tariff is high. It was nade outside the walls. It is shaded by a
from this place that Charles II. embarked double row of trees, and is the usual resort
for England after the downfall of Crom- of the inhabitants.
I
Leyden is surrounded
well. Omnibuses are constantly' running by windmills and private villas.
between the village and the Hague also a
; About five miles from Le^'den is Kattcijk,
horse ^ailwa3^ j
where, in 1809, King Louis Bonaparte,
Principal hotel, Hotel de la Promenade, father of the late Emperor Napoleon III.,
newly built on the Avenue, 10 minutes from erected immense sluice-gates, for the pur-
the beach in the direction of the Hague pose of helping the Rhine to discharge
comfortable apartments. Trains from the its waters into the sea. The works are
Hague to Leyden every hour time, 30 m.
; remarkable, and Avell deserving a visit.
Leyden is a town of 40,724 inhabitants ;
'
sea-bathing. It may be reached by omni- Church of St. Bavon, a vast Gothic struc-
bus or steamer on the Khine. ture with a high square tower, from which
Trains from Leyden to Haarlem nearly there is an extensive view. It contains
every hpur distance, 19 miles.
; one of the lions of the Continent, the great
Two miles from Leyden is Warmond, \
organ, which has 5000 pipes and 60 stops.
where there is a Koman Catholic college. Its largest metal pipe is 15 inches in diam-
Eleven miles farther is Vogelenzang, eter. It fills up the whole of one end of
where may be seen the immense steam- the church, reaching nearly to the roof.
engines for fdling a reservoir of seven It is played on certain days, when all are
acres, to supply the city of Amsterdam admitted gratuitously. At all other times
with water. the fee is §5 for the organist and 81 for
Ilnarkm, situated on the Spaam, contains ;
the blower. The party may be large or
42,600 inhabitants. Tlutel Fiinckler, near small, it makes no difference. Every
station, best. This town is well known in Tuesday and Thursday, from 1 to 2 o'clock,
j
selves up. The city surrendered to the pavilion fitted up as a picture-gallerA', con-
Duke of Alva, who basely violated the taining the works of modern Dutch artists.
terms of the capitulation, putting all the This elegant mansion was built by a bank-
garrison and nearly 2000 of the citizens to er of Haarlem named Hope, and sold by
death. him to the Emperor Napoleon I. for a res-
Haarlem was formerly famous for its idence for his brother Louis. It now be-
bleaching-works, as well as for its cotton longs to the King of Holland. Among the
manufactures but both of these branches
; j
collection is the Wreck of the Willi'im /.,
of industry have fallen off. It is a great by Meyer the Meeting «f Isanc and Re-
;
mart for the sale of bulbous I'oots, tulips, becca,by Navez Battle of Waterloo, by
;
hj'acinths, and others, which are very ex- Tieneman the Marriage of Jacqueline of
:
tensively cultivated in its outskirts, and Bavaiia and the Duke of Brabant. The
supply the floricultural tastes of the most gallery is open Tuesday, Thursday, Satur-
distant portions of Europe. AVhen the j
day. and Sunday from 10 to 4 o'clock. On
tulip mania was at its height in Europe, other days a small fee will procure admit-
the most fabulous prices were paid for the '
ed where $2000 was paid for a single bulb. public walks, and sprinkled with lovely
The public gambled in them as they do in villas. The famous engines that pumped
the different stoc!ks, and tliey were bought out the Lake of Haarlem^ nearly l.oOd.OOO,-
and sold without ever appearing in the 000 tuns of water, are well worth a visit.
transaction.The hiichest price any of By means of this stupendous undertaking,
them now brings is $50, although the av- 50.000 acres of land were redeemed and
erage price is about 25 cents. There is made productive. The appearance of the
one horticulturist who exports annually country, as we approach Amsterdam, is
300,000 crocuses, 200,000 tulips, 100,000 veni' interesting —with causeways, canals,
hyacinths, and 100,000 ranunculuses, be- and windmills in every direction.
sluices,
sides other flowers. Trains from Haarlem to Amsterdam
The principal edifice in the city is the cverv hour; time, 22 m.
533
Amsterdam. [HOLLA>s'D.] Amsterdam.
Amsterdam derives its name from to there is an excellent view of this most sin-
j
"dam" the river "Amstel," which runs gular city. The palace is richly adorned
through the city, and divides it into two with pillars and various works of art.
nearly equal portions. This commercial During the reign of Louis Bonaparte it be-
capital of Holland, and one of the most won- came his palace. It was built between the
derful in Europe, contains 3-j;G,19G inhab- j^ears 1648 and 1655.
|
It contains one large
itants. Hotels: Amstel, Kr a snopolsky, and hall in the centre
'
The Krasnopolshy is a grand new house, feet wide, and is lined with white Italian
with fine restaurant. The Pays Bas is a marble. The palace contains many splen-
large, spacious, and well frequented house, did paintings one of the most attractive
:
managed by the proprietor, M. Van den is Van Speyk blowing up his ship sooner
Brink the charges are moderate.
;
than yield to the Belgians, by Wappers.
I
are four canals, and streets not easily match- Dutch and Flemish schools, is open to
ed in any other city of Europe, either for the public from 10 to 3 every day but
their length, width, or the elegance of their Saturday, when a fee of one guilder to
buildings. They are called Princen Gracht, the keeper will insure admission.
:
Cata-
Keyser Gracht, Heeren Gracht, and Singel logues containing fac- similes of the dif-
Gracht. These are so intersected with ferent painters' autographs are for sale,
|
other canals that they divide the city into price 1 J guilders. This catalogue also gives
90 islands, which are crossed by nearly 300 you the original cost of most of the pict-
'
bridges, partly wood and partly stone. The ures, also the cost to place them in this
|
in the cit}', and, indeed, one of the noblest picture are all portraits. Sir Joshua Reyn-
j
to be any where met with : it stands in olds says "Of this picture I had heard
:
an open space or square called the Damm. great commendations but it as far exceed-
;
iers's Body-Guard^ Temptation of St. An- able collection of modern pictures, etchings,
thony, and Hour of Repose, are all excel- engravings, and ancient and modern draw-
lent works. The museum contains one of ings. In the Artists' Club on the Kokin
the linost collections of prints in Europe, there is also an Historic Gallery of Paintings
most of which were collected by Van by celebrated Dutch artists of the present
Leyden. day admission, 25 cents. The principal
;
There are numerous private collections promenade is the Plantaadje, near the dock-
in Amsterdam, amonj; which are those of yards, and surrounded by canals. Near
J/. Six and Madame Van Loon. this are the Znoloyical Gardens, which well
The New Church contains some fine mon- deserve a visit : the fashionable world of
uments, particular!}' one erected in honor Amsterdam may be seen here on Wednes-
of the brave Admiral De Ruyter. The Old day evenings and Sunday afternoons.
Church of St. Nicholas has some of the An English writer says the Dutch bear
finest painted windows in Europe. a strong resemblance to the Chinese:
Amsterdam is famous for the number of like that industrious and economical race,
its charitable institutions ; there are over ,
they keep their hogs,.their ducks, and other
twenty of different descriptions in the city. \
domestic animals constantly on board their
Among others is the Society for the Promo- I
vessels. Their cabins display the same
tion of the Public Weal, extending all over neatness as the parlors of their country-
Holland, comprising 14,000 meml)ers aleo ;
'
men on shore. The women employ them-
the Bu7'yker Orphan Asylum. You never ;
selves in all the domestic offices, and are
see a man, woman, or child in the street I
assiduous in embellishing their little sitting-
covered with rags, and a case of drunk- rooms with the laijors of the needle and ;
enness is of rare occurrence. It is said many of them have little gardens of tulips,
that Charles II. of England, who had hyacinths, anemones, and various other
lived a long time in Amsterdam, remarked, I
flowers. Some of these vessels are of great
when Louis XIV. was about attacking the length, but generally naiTow, suitable to
city, that "Providence will preserve Am- the canals and sluices of the town.
sterdam if it were only for the great charity !
Ship-building is carried on to a great ex-
they have for the poor." I tent in Amsterdam. There are also man-
To oljviate the dangers and difficulties j
ufactures of linen, cotton, silk, with dis-
of navigating the shallow water of the i
and breweries, tanneries and to-
tilleries
Zuyder-Zee, a ship- canal has been con- '
from here for more than a mile along the Diemen, uncle of Tasman, who at that time
side of a canal to was governor of the Dutch possessions in
The Jlelder, a strongly fortified town, con- India. Tasman was born in 1600, and dis-
verted l)y Napoleon I. from a fishing-ham- covered Van Diemen's Land in 1642.
let into a first-class fortress, and called by From Horn to Piirmerend, a town noted
him his Northern Gibraltar. He spent for the great quantity of cheese sold, is a
upon it many millions of francs, but it was distance of three hours by carriage.
unfinished at his overthrow. (Population, Steamers from Amsterdam to Harlingen
12,000.) The entrance to the harbor and in 6 h. 30m.
Grand Canal and the roads of the Mars Harlingen (hotel, HeerenlgemenC), a ship-
Diep are defended by the batteries of this ping town, situated on the Zuyder-Zee, con-
fortress a light-house rises from the Fort
;
taining 10,500 inhabitant^ it is surrounded
:
Kijkduin, which occupies the highest posi- by a dike over forty feet high to protect it
tion of the dunes. The town and fortress from being swallowed up by the sea, as its
of the Holder lie within and are defended predecessor was in 1134. It docs considera-
from the encroachments of the sea by an ble business in agricultural produce.
immense dike, two leagues in length, whose I
There are steamers daily to Amsterdam,
summit is 40 foot in breadth, and upon which ! and twice a week to London.
there is a good road. It forms a gigantic Trains in one hour to Leeuwarden, which
artificial coast, impervious to the fury of the contains a population of 27.108. Hotel,
tempests which here sweep along the shore, Nieuwe Doelen. Leeuwarden is the capital
and against which there existed formerly of the province of Friesland, and contains a
no defense. Hotel cl' Ville, Museum, a Leaning House of
Steamers ply daily in hours between H Correction, etc.
the Holder and the The women of Leeuwarden are celebra-
—
Is'andofTexeK Population, 5000. Here ted for their beauty as well as for their
a peculiar breed of sheep (;}0,000) is raised, ancient manners and costumes, which can
the firmness and length of whose wool ren- be seen to great advantage on Friday,
der their fleeces of great value. De which is their market-day. They wear
Burg is the most important place on the beautiful lace caps, and gold hoops and
island. pend;-;nts. The men pride themselves on
The traveler niav continue from Helden having been for manv centuries a free and
534^
Groningen. [HOLLAND.] SOEST.
independent people, enacting and being Twenty minutes by rail, situated on Zuy-
governed by their own laws. der-Zee, the sea-port of Kempen. contain-
is
Gronlngen, situated at the junction of the ing 10,300 inhabitants it was formerly one
:
Flunse and-4fl, contains 40,165 inhabitants. of the most flourishing of the Hanse towns.
Hotel. Doelen. This town is handsomely IJoteldesPuys-Bas. This is the onlv town
built, and is the principal sea-port in the in Holland where the citizens live free of
north of Holland, large vessels coming up taxation its former great wealth and nu-
:
the Reid-diep from the sea. It contains a merous bequests render taxation unneces-
university, with a fine Museum of Natural sary. It is consequently the residence of
History. numerous small capitalists and retired ofli-
merich, G fl. 30 c. ;
— thence to Cologne, 11 gland in the seventh century to convert the
marks 20 pf. Amsterdam to Utrecht ; time, heathen. The Pope ordained him bishop,
55 m. fare, 1 fl. 80 c.
;
and Charles Martel presented him with
The ride to Utrecht is very pleasant; the castle of Utrecht as a residence. The
the neat farm-houses, surrounded by gar- Museum of Agricultural Implements was
dens blooming with flowers, the canals and j
formerly the residence of Louis Bonaparte.
ricli green fields, the villas and summer- I
Utrecht has a Chamber of Commerce, and
houses of the rich merchants of Amster- '
rived their title from its name. It is situ- men, under Marshal Grammont, in memory
ated on the Rhine, which is here reduced of the day on which Bonaparte was crown-
to a very insignificant stream, the larger ed emperor. The whole army were thirty-
portion of its waters passing into the chan- two days in raising it.
nel of the Meuse. One of the principal ob- From Utrecht there is a railway south
jects of attraction in the city is the Cathe- to Antwerp and to Aix - la - Chapelle via
dral of St. Martin, the tower of which stands Maestricht, passing
on one side and the church on the other; :
^S Ilertogenhosch, a fortified town of
the nave of the church was carried off by a I
North Brabant, containing 24,298 inhabit-
storm in 1674. The tower is 320 feet high, ants. Hotel, Goude Leeutt. The town is
from the top of which a magnificent view well built and is traversed by canals, over
of the whole of Holland may be had. The which are thrown some twenty bridges. It
sexton and his family live halfway up this was founded in 1184. The principal edi-
steeple !The church contains several fine fice is the Church of St. John, the finest
monuments. The Roman Catholic Cathe- ecclesiastical building in Holland, built
dral of >S^ Cathei-ine is also a fine building: about the middle of the 14th century there ;
it dates from the 14th century, and con- is also a J/vtel de Ville, Govertwrs Hotel,
tains some exquisite carved work. The and several philanthropic establishments.
Mint, University, and Museum are the re- 'S Ilertogenhosch is noted for the manu-
maining attractions. The University con- facture of musical instruments, pins, and
tains nearly 500 students, and has a fine brown linen.
collection of minerals. The ramparts have Boxtel station, a small town. Railway
been formed into a boulevard and planted to Antwerp, Brussels, etc.
with trees that on the side of the canal
; Eindhovtu, situated at the confluence of
forms an agreeable promenade. The Mali- the Gender and Dommel, is a busy manu-
baan is a beautiful avenue of lime-trees, facturing town, whence a railway branches
half a mile in length and eight rows deep. oflf to Venlo, a fortified frontier town^ noted
The trees were so very beautiful that when for its numerous sieges.
Vol. T.— A A 5344
EOERMON'D. [HOLLAND.] ZCTPHEN.
The Church of St. Christopher is also a portance to detain the traveler, although
handsome building, and contains some fine its suburbs are very beautiful. Its forti-
pictures. fications have been converted into prome-
Maestricht {Hotel du Levrier\ capital of nades.
the Dutch portion of the province of Lim- The Groote Kerlc and the St. Walhurg
burg, contains 28,891 inhabitants. It is Roman Catholic Church are the principal
a frontier fortress, and one of the strongest buildings. The Hotel de Ville has some
in Europe it is undermined, and can al-
: droll carvings on
its facade.
most instantly be flooded with water. The From Arnhem a road branches off to
principal building is the Church of St. Ser- the north to Zutphen and Zwclle that to ;
vais, the original building dating from the Zutphen is the direct line to Berlin via
12th century. It contains a Descent from Rheine and Osnabrlick, and Route 159 to
the Cross, by Vandyck. Maestricht, which Bremen, thence by Route 150 to Berlin,
exists since the 4th century, has sustained or more direct via Hanover.
numerous sieges it was sacked by the
: From Arnhem to Zutphen. Time, 42
Duke of Alva in 1576 taken, in 1632, by
; minutes. A
short distance from Arnhem
Prince Frederick of Nassau, who ceded it is the town of Velp, much resorted to dur-
to the States of Holland. It was taken by ing the summer by the wealthy classes.
the French in 1673 and in 1718, and again Zutphen. Hotel, Keizerskroon. This
by the French, under Kleber, in 1794, and fine-looking fortress contains a population
remained in their possession until 1815, at of IG.OOO it is situated at the junction of
;
which time it was comprised in the King- the Ijssel with the Berckel, and may be
dom of the Netherlands. After the separa- reached from Amsterdam by steamer daily
tion of Holland from Belgium it was the during the summer. This very ancient
object of long and continual disputes be- town in 1202 belonged to the Bishop of
tween these two powers but it was finally
; Utrecht. It afterward became one of the
delivered to the King of Holland in 1839. Hanseatic towns. In 1530 it was taken
The Stadhuis contains a library and a by the army of the States, and in 1572 by
collection of paintings. Don Frederick of Toledo, son of the Duke
There a Public Park which should be
is of Alva; by the Prince Maurice in 1591;
visited. Thegreat object of attraction, and by the French in 1672. The Hotel de
however, is the Subterranean Quarries un- Ville has five handsome facades.
der the citadel of St. Pierre, covering the The Protestant Church of St. Walburga
immense space of seventy -eight square is a fine Gothic building, dating from the
miles. There are some sixteen thousand early part of the 12th century. Its tower
passages from 25 to 50 feet high and 10 was destroyed by lightning in 1600, when
feet wide, running at right angles, sup- the present one was erected. It contains
ported by pillars 40 feet square, left by numerous monuments of the Counts of
the excavators. These quarries were first Zutphen.
worked by the Romans, and are exceed- A little to the east of Zutphen the cele-
ingly interesting to visit, but dangerous to brated English general Sir Philip Sidney,
examine alone, as numerous persons have who had been elected King of Poland, re-
lost their lives, being unable to find their ceived his death-wound after having de-
way out. The traveler is now accompa- feated the Spaniards in 1586. Readers of
nied by a sworn guide, to whom he pays English histor\' will remember that this
one franc fee. The entrance is about three hero, who was prevented from being a sov-
miles distant from the hotel. The time ereign b}^ his own sovereign Elizabeth,
occupied in the quarries is about one hour ;
while lying on the ground parched with
carriage to the entrance and back, 7 francs. thirst and bleeding from his death-wounds,
Railway from Utrecht to Arnhem, 1 h. gave the cup of water brought for him to
30 m. the dying soldier by his side.
534S
Deventer. [HOLLAND.] Zevenaab.
bank of the Ijssel,and contains 18,125 in- This town, which dates from the time of
habitants. Hotels, Moriaan and Nieuwe the Romans, was of considerable impor-
Keizers /croon. Deventer is much cele- tance in the 4th centurv. It was much
brated for its ginger-bread, large quantities enlarged and embellished by Charlemagne,
of which are exported yearly and, like but was sacked by the Normans in 881.
:
Geneva gold, the quality must be kept In the 11th century it became a free and
pure consequently an officer is appointed imperial city, and was admitted as one
;
1)}' the town to examine the dough before of the Uanse towns. It entered into the
it is baked. Union of Utrecht in 1579, and was taken
The Ilutel de Ville contains a valuable by the French in 1672 and 1704. Three
picture by Terburg, representing the town treaties were signed here during the reign
council. of LouisXIV.— first with Holland, in 1678 ;
The Church ofSt.Lvben is a large Goth- second with Spain, in 1678 and third with
;
ic building, and contains some fine painted Germany, in 1679. These treaties put an
glass windows. The town was besieged end to the war of Europe against France.
by the English, under the Earl of Leices- The Eaidhui.<, or Hotel de Ville, is orna-
ter, in 1586. Numerous cannon-balls, rel- mented with two rows of statues of Ger-
ics of the siege, may be seen in the Berg man emperors it contains portraits of
;
was a favorite retreat of William IIL It a handsome summer - house built on the
is furnished with great taste and contains foundations of a tower which was part of
numerous works of art. The grounds arc the castle formerly occupied by the Duke
extensive and very beautiful. There is a of Alva. A little lower down are the pub-
comfortable hotel near the palace. lic walks, built on the ancient ramparts of
Agnesberg, 1433.
Aiibogen,1468. Agram, 739 Agre, 1360.
;
Route from Paris, 36. the Great Mosque, the Castle, St. Paul's
Corinth, 997. House, Abd el Kader, 976.
Cork, 50. Damascus to Baalbec, 977.
to London, Liverpool, and "Glasgow, Route from London, 30 from ; Paris, 36.
100. Danzig, 604.
Route from Paris, 36. Route from London, 30; from Paris, 36.
Cornigliano, 743. Dardanelles, the. 983.
Cornwall Landing, 1554. Route from Paris, 37.
Coron, 1001. Dargle, the, 70.
Corsoer, 1312, 1314. Darmstadt, 696.
Cortina d'Ampezzo, 1172. to Heidelberg. 697.
Cortona, 839. Route from Paris. 37.
Coruna,12(i6. Dartford, 217 2-8. -n«..t.,,„„fv, o-i
Dartmouth, 2.1.
Coryciau Cave, 999. Davlia,1000.
Cosenza, 892. Davos Platz and Dorfle, 1137.
Coslin, 604. Dax, 417.
Cossonay, 1067. Dead Sea, the. 969.
Cote d'Or, 458. Deepdene, 226 1-4.
Cotignola, 819. Deer Park, 1318, 1458.
Courmayeur, 1052. Delft. 530.
Conrtrai, 499, 522. Delphi, or Castri, 999.
Coutances, 395. Denbigh, 248.
Coutras, 412. Denia, 1263.
Cove, 82. Denmark, 1293-1349.
Coventry. 240. Dent d'Ouch, 1044.
Cowes, 226. Departures from London, 21 7 ; from Paris, 37(",
Devens Salt Miiie.-^, nil. Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, St. Patrick's
Devenler, 534 7-8. Cathedral, Four Courts, 69; Ciistom-hou-e,
Devil's Bridge, 1103. Exchange, Nelson's Monument, Galleries,
Diamond Island, 1557. Museum, Phoenix Park, Zoological Gar-
Diedenhofen, 493. dens, Botanic Gardens at Glasuevin, Cem-
Dieppe, 300, 389. etery, Irish Poplins, 70; Excursions, 71;
Route from London, 30 ; from PmIs, 37. Hill of Howth, Kingstown, 71.
Dijou, 458. Route fiora Paris, 37. Dublin to Loudon, Liverpool, Glasgow, and
Diramelsvik, 1420. Bristol, 100.
Dinant, 517. Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37.
Dintrwall, 120. Dumbarton. 114.
Dioiomutic and Consular Agents, xxi-sxiv. Dumfries, 168.
Dissenti.=, 1132. Dunbar, 164.
Dives, 3<»3. Dunblane, 142.
Divonne, 1033. Dnndalk,92.
Djurgaiden, 14.^8. Dundee, 179.
DoblVs Feny, 1553. Dundrennan, 174.
Dol,3%. Dundrum, 96.
Dole, 47S,1 038. Dunfermline, 177.
Route from Paris, 37. Dunirarvau, 77.
Dolgelly, 144. Duukeld, 132.
Dollar, 140. Dunkirk, 499.
DJlsach, 1180. Route from Paris, 37.
Dombaas, 1395, 1399. Dunmanwav, 53.
Domo dOs.sola, 746. Dunnottar. Castle of, ISO.
^^ Route from Paris, 37. Dunoon, 115.
Domremy, 491. Dunrobin, 130.
Don Alvaro, 127S. Dunseverick, 99.
Dou Benito, 1278. DunstafTnage, 118.
Don Roderic, Castle of, 1197. DunveL^an Castle, 129.
Donaustaf, 631. Durham, 238.
Don caster, 234. Diisseldorf, .5S1.
Donchery. 496. to Bremen, 614.
Donegal, S9. Route from London, 30 ; Paris, 37.
Dorchester, 286.
Dordrecht, or Dort, 528. E.
Dorkinir, 227, 2S7. East, The, via Suez Canal : from Lond(Mi, 33.
D.)rnb;irn,1165. Eastbourne, 227 1-3.
Dortmund, 580. Eaux Bonnes, 441.
Douai, 498. Route from Paris, 37.
Doune, Douglas, 241,
143. Eaux Chaudes, 442.
Dover, 229. Route from P.uis, 37.
Route from London, 80, 290 ; from Par- Ebal, Mount, 972.
is, 37. Ebelsbers, 726.
Dovre Fjeld, 1395. Ebnat, 1133.
Downpatrick, 97. Eboli, 89.3.
Drachenfels, 6S1. Ecija, 1232.
Drammen, 14(i6. Edane, 1469.
Draxholm, Castle of, 1340. E'Dayr, 937.
Dresden Hotels, American Club, 6.33 Roval
: ; Eden Hall, 258.
Palace, 634; Picture-gallery and its Gems, Eddvstone Liirht-house, 271.
635; the Zwinger, Museum of Natural His- Edfoo, 941.
tory, and Military Museum, 636; Grand Op- Edinburgh: Excursions in the vicinity of,
era-house, 636 Japanese Palace and the
: 151; The C.istle, Scott's Monument. 162;
Frauenkirche, 636; Manufactures, Bankers, National Gallery, Royal Institution, Regis-
and Tradesmen, 037, 638 Excursions, 638. ; ter House, Caiton Hill Monuments, St.
Dresden to Frankfort, 619. Giles's Cathedral, 153 the University, Par-
;
to the Oetzthal. IISI. tre of the Earth, Hill ofZiou, Last Supper,
from Munich, 1174. 963, 964: Calvary, Coenaculum, 964; Arme-
to Colico (aud Milau), over the Stelvio, nian Convent, j'ews' Wailing-place, Valley
747. of Jehoshaphat, Fountain of the Virgin,
to Veroua, by the Brenuer Pass, 749, the Viririn Mary Accused. Pool of Silouni,
1175. Tomb and Chapel of the Viririn, 965; Gar-
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 38. den of Gethseniaue, Back.><heesh, Monnt of
Interlaken, 1076. Olives, Bethanv, Tombs, Absalom's Tomb,
Excursions, 1088. Pool of Bethesda, Via Dolorosa, Church of
Route from Loudon, 31 ; from Paris, the Flatrellation, 966; Arch of the Eccj
as. Homo, Tower of David, 967.
Inverary, 123. Jerusalem to Hebron, 967.
luverlochy Castle, 124. to the Dead Sea, 969.
Inveruess, 126. to Bey rout, 971.
to Aberdeen, 126. Route from London, 31 ; from Paris,
to Thurso, 126. 38.
Inveroran, 145. Johannisberger, Castle of, 689.
Ion a, 120. John O'Groat's, 131.
Ipswich, 231. Jonkoping, 1467.
Ireland, 46-100. Jotunheim, the, 1423.
Routes in, 47. Jordan River, the, 970.
Irvine, 126. Jnlier Pass, 1123.
Ischia, Island of, 891. Jungfrau, the, 1090.
Isclil, 728. Jurzon, 441.
Iselie, 106.5. Justedal Glacier, the, 1416.
Iseniia,S75. Jiiterbogk, 615.
I>l;indofGotthind, 1480. Jyderup, 1340.
ofOttero, 1.379.
of SlroniO. 13S1, K.
.fToiireu, 1380.
Isleof Miin,241. Kaardal Gaard, 1417.
Isle-..fWi gat; 2-22-226. Kaaterskill Falls, the, 1566.
l^\e<, Loffoden, the, 1381. Kaifa,980.
I^les of Greece, the, 990. TRm.,,|j„ orn Kaiserswacht, 1175.
Ismailia.ysz.
Isola Bella, 1106. Kalabshee, 944.
Issella, 746. Kalafat, 738.
Is^nire, 452. Kalamata, 1001.
Italy, 741-894. Kallundborg, 13.39.
Irri;S73. Kaltenbrunn, 1160.
Itter, Castle of, 11T4. Kandersteir, 1074.
Ivrea, 790. Kandestederne, 1335.
Kanso, 1433.
Karesuando, 1390.
Jacksonville, 1579. Karlskoga. 1469.
Jadraqiie, 1274. Karlso, 1384.
Juegersprus, 1325. Karlstein, m.5.
Jaffa, 956. Karmsund. 1420.
to Jerusalem, 956. Kastnaeshavn, 1383.
Route from Pai is, 38. Katrineholm, 1443.
Jardiu, the, 1050. Katwijk,532.
Jativa, 1260. Kaufbeuren, 668.
Jedburgh, 161. Kanns, 1184.
Jelliuge, 1326. Kautokeino. 1390.
Jenatz, 1136. Kedes, 975.
Jenbach, 1145, 1175. Keh 1,672.
Jenin, 973. Kells, 72, 98.
Jerez de la Frontera, 1240. Kelso, 102.
Route from Paris. 38. Kempen, 534 4-3,
16 INDEX.
Keudal, 252. Knocklong, 63.
Lion, the, of Lucerne, 10S7. 202 ; the South Keusingtou Museum, the
Lipari Islands, the, 902. National Portrait-gallery, the Royal Albert
Lisbon, 12S4. Hall of Arts, Soaiie's Museum, 203 East ;
Koute from London, 31 ; from Paris, 39. India Museum, Royal Colleu^e of Surgeons,
Lisburu, 95. United Service Musenm, Museum of Prac-
Lisieux, 392. tical Geology, Madame Tussaud's Wax-
Lismore, 57. works, Buckingham Palace,204; St. James's
Lissadill, 8S. Palace, Whitehall, 3Iarlboroueh House,
Listad i Sondre Fron, 1394, Kensington Palace, Lambeth Palace, Aps-
Listowel, 65. ley House, 205 Stafford House, Northum-
;
ment for the Great Fire, Westminster Ab- to Folkestone and France, 227.
bey, 195 Monuments aud Memorial Tab-
; to Harwich and "Holland, 230.
lets, 196; the Houses of Parliament, 197; to Hastings, Chiselharst, and Tun-
an Opening of Parliament, Westminster bridge Welle, 226.
Hall, the Thames Embankment, St. Paul's to Land's End, 267.
• Cathedral, 198; Temple Church, St. Bar- to Maidstone find Folkestone, 227.
tholomew the Great, St. Saviour, St. Mary- to Oxford, Keuilworth, etc., 264.
INDEX. 19
Orteuburg, Ruins of, 1181. Government, the Commune and the Giov-
Orthez, 442. ernment, 308-318 ; Legion of Honor, Army,
Ortler Spitz, 1160, 1162. Fortifications, 318 Courts, Tribnnals, and ;
Ostend, 521. Paris for Eight Davs, for Two Days, for
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris, One Day, Days and Hours when Mu-
322 ;
Oster Svenstrup, 1331. Glacier, 328, .329 Bals Masques. Jardins de!»
;
BEDROOMS FROM 2s. 6(1. PER DAY, and all other Charges
Equally Moderate.
R. ETZENSBERGER, Manager.
Convenient Omnibus Service between the Hotel, the West End, Trafalgar
Square, Charing Cross, and the Strand ; Fare 3d.
Intending visitors may also order the Company's one-horse omnibuses to meet
them on arrival at any London Terminus, saving much trouble, delay, and expense.
CHRONOMETER MAKERS
To the Qneen, and their Royal Highnesses
the Prince and Princess of Wales.
WATCHES, CHRONOM-
ETERS, and CLOCKS, of
every description, from the sim-
plest and least expensive to the
most complicated.
84 STKAND, LONDON.
The public are respectfully cautioned numerous forgeries of our name and trade marks.
3
OSLER
CllM aii Cffstal Kl
MANUFACTURERS
Glass Dinner Services, China Dessert Services,
Glass Dessert Services, China Dinner Services,
Glass Table Decorations, China Breakfast Services,
Glass Flower Vases, China Tea Services,
Glass Table Lamps, China Vases,
Glass Lustres & Wall Lights, China and Parian Groups,
Glass and Metal Chandeliers, China Ornaments.
—
This magnificent Hotel, occupying one of the most cheerful, heiilthy, and pleasant sites in London overlooking!
Hyde Park, Rotten Row, and the Serpentine— is conducted at such a reduced tariff as to render it the cheapest first-class
Hotel in London. It comprises numerous Suites of Apartments, a Spacious and Elegant Coffee-Room, a Drawing-Kbom
overlooking the Park, with Reading-Room adjoining, a Smoking-Room, &c. The Wines and Cuisine are of the best.
Tariffs will be forwarded on application to the Manager. There is an Ascending-Room to every floor.
LONDOT^.
ST. JAMES'S HOTEL,
Corner of Berkeley Street, Piccadilly.
^
This First-Class Hotel, which commands a view
of the Green Park
and Buckingham Palace, has now the advantage of a Patent
Safety Lift communicating with every floor.
The clientele of the Hotel is of the best class, and tht^ Apartments for Families
are exceptionally convenient and good. The Cuisine is of tlie best, and includes
the HOUSE DINNERS, from seven o'clock P.M., at 7s. 6d. and lOs. 6d. per
head, served at separate tables. Other Dinners and Luncheons supplied at a
moment's notice a la carte, and in the coffee-room or private rooms, as may be pre-
ferred. The Wines are furnished by the well known houses of Christopher & Co.
and Tanqueray & Co., which will be a sufficient guarantee that they are of the
best possible vintages.
SILK MERCERS,
LINEN DRAPERS, &c.
LONDON, W.
LONDON".
BRISTOL HOTEL.
This large Family Hotel, situated between Bond Street and liegent Street,
near Piccadilly, is newly established, and furnished in the Continental style, with
every possible comfort and modern improvement.
First-class Restaurant, with Breakfasts and Dinners d la Parisienne. Lift,
Telephone, &c.
LIMERICK.
THE GLENTWORTH HOTEL.
This neat Hotel has been prepared with great care and at considerable expense, for the ac-
commodation of ladies and gentlemen visiting Limerick.
The Commercial- Room (and Waiting -Room attached), the Ladies' Coffee Room, and the
-
Gentlemeu'.s ("oHeu-Room will stand comparison with any of the kind in Ireland.
The Gle.vtworth claims the support of the general public for the superiority of its accom-
modation in every Department, including Sitting Rooms, Bed Rooms, Bath Rooms (Hot and
- - -
A. H. MAOPHEKSON, Proprietor.
HARPER'S PERIODICALS.
Per Year:
HARPER'S MAGAZINE $4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 4 00
HARPER'S BAZAR 4 00
HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Number each week for One Year 10 00
Postage Fi^ee to all Subscribers in the United States or Canada.
During the Summer months, Tourist Tickets (available for 2 months) are issued,
enabling the holders to break their journey at all jjlaces of interest, at a small in-
crease upon the ordinary fares; also, Tickets for "Circular Tours" by Rail iind
Coach through the most picturesque parts of Wales (North and South).
Programmes of the arrangements are published monthly, and may be obtained
at any station or from the undersigned.
To the Tourist and the Antiquarian the Great Western Railway pos.«esses feat-
ures of interest unequaled by any other Railway in the United Kingdom. It af-
fords convenient and, in many instances, the only Railway access to places sought
after from the historical associations connected with them, such as Chester, Shrews-
bury (with Uriconium, the ancient Roman city and battle-field, within an easy ride),
Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon, Kenilworth, Oxford, Worcester, Ludlow, Hereford,
Woodstock, Windsor, and many other places of note, all reached by the Great
Western route; while the scenery of North and South Wales, the Valley of the
Wye, &c., through which the Railway passes, is unsurpassed in Great Britain.
Time-Books, Maps, «S:c., are supplied to the Steamshijjs running between En-
gland and America, and they will be forwarded, free of charge, to any part of
America, to all persons applying for the same to the undersigned, of whom full
particulars as to trains, fares, and other arrangements may be obtained.
60 lbs. For a charge of 6d. per package, baggage can be registered at Lime Street Station and
delivered at any g'ven address (within the usual delivery radius; beyond, 3d. extra) in London,
Leicester, Birmingham, Manchester, and Liverpool.
piuF«. (Liverpool to Loudon, First Class, 29/-; Second Class, 21/9; Third Class, 16/6*
TAttiis.
I i.iverpool to Glasgow, First Class, 33/-; Second Class, 23/3; Third Class, 16/-.
Special Tickets are issued through to London, without extra charge, allowing passengers to
break the journey at Chester, Nuneaton, and at Rugby, to enable them to visit Leamington,
Warwick, Kenilwortli, Stratford- on- Avon, &c. Ten days are allowed for the com-
pletion of the journe}^ between Liverpool and London.
A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL, " The North-TTestern," specially appointed
for the convenience of American travellers— containing upwards of 300
Bedrooms, >vitli spacious Coffee, Drawing, Heading, "Writing, Billiard, and
Smoking Rooms, and replete with every accommodation - adjoins the
Lime Street terminus.
COIsTTIlSrENTAL TRAA^I^il^.
THllOUGH TICKETS for the railway journey to LONDON, and to PARIS and all parts of
THE Continent, can be obtained at the offices of the Company's Continental Tourist Agents, Messrs. Gaze & Son
260 Washington Street, Boston ;and 136 St. James' Street, Montreal. Passengers booking to Liverpool only in the
first instance may obtain similar Through Tickets at the Lime Street Station. Full inf.irmation as to Contmental
Tours may be obtained of Mr. Thomas Lowton, Lime Street Station, and of Messrs Gaze & Son, 142 Strand, London.
The Steamship Companies' Orders for tickets to Paris will be exchanged at Lime St. Station.
Omnibuses from the Liverpool Docks to the Lime Street Station.— Upon receipttoofmeet a tele-
eram from Queenstown, the Station .Master at Lime Street Station will arrange to send Omnibuses
the
Hotel or Lime Street
Bteamer on arrival in the Ltocks at Liverpool, to convey passengers to the North-Western
Station at a reasonable charge. .,
. ^ ^ ^ -j *», »v
outside with the
The Companv provide SMALL OMNIBUSES, capable of carrying six persons inside and two ordered. A tele-
usual quantity ofbaggage, to meet the EXPRESS Trains at Evston Statiok, when
previously
Master at
sram ordering an Omnibus to meet any train will be forwarded to London on application to the Station an Omnibus is
Lime Street Station, Liverpool, or at any station en route, free of charge. The charge for the use of
One ShiUing per mile; minimum. Three Shillings. ,. ^. t j t, n
also run at frequent intervals between EUSTON and the TERMINI of the London
Railways in
OMNIBUSES
connection with the Continental service. ,..,, ^ , <ivxi.nrj.
Through Tickets to London can be obtained of the London & >orth.Western Companj's
»„ n—
American Passenger Asent, who Tisits the steamers prior to their leaving >ew \orli.
of the Company 8
Time Books of the Line axe exhibited on board all the Atlantic Steamers, and full particulars to
Route can be obtained of their Passenger Agent, who is also prepared to give passengers letters of introduction
the Companv's Officers at Liverpool, specifving any requirements as to travelling accommodation.
Mr. I.. J^ TROWBRIDGE, 3 Broadway, New Yorlc.
A epresentativc of the London and North-Westem Railway Company will meet passengers on their arrival at
Full par-
the Landing Stage, Liverpool, to give information as to trains, or take orders for Saloon Carriages, &c.
ticulars can also be obtained from MR. JAMES SHAW. District Superintendent, Lime Street
Station I^verpool;
Mr. J. B. LOVELANU, American Passenger Agent, North Western Hotel, Lime Street, Liverpool; ana MR. u. r.
NEELE, Superintendent of the Line. Euston Station, London. .,.^„ ,m,
EusTOM Station, London, issj^. G« FI>DLAY, General Manager.
10
THOMAS COOK & SON,
261 Broadway, New York; Ludgate Circus, London.
A TRIP ABROAD
To their unequalled facilities for rendering such trips
REDUCED RATES.
Passage Tickets hy all Lines of Atlantic Steamers.
CIKCULAR NOTES
AND
LETTERS OF CREDIT
TO TRAVELLERS, AVAILABLE IN ALL PARTS
OF THE WORLD.
..#%<.
59
^«
& 61 Wall — ,11 ^^
St.
WALTER WATSOX,
^,,^^^^j,ER LANG,[^^-''-
) ^
22 ABCHURCH LANE, E. C.
C. ASHWORTH, Manager.
15
OXFORD.
? -X-^i fJi -^=
IN
R i^ ^^ D O L t> 11
THE CENTUE OF THE CITY. The onlv modern
Buildings, and commanding a fine open view down Beaumont Street,
HOTEL
built Hotel in Oxford. Close to the Colle;?es and Public
St. Giles's Street, aii.l Magdalen Street oppo-
si e the Martyrs' Memorial. Handsome Suites of Apartments: Ladies' Coffee -Room, Billiard - Kooms, and every
Charges Moderate. Good
modern comfort and convenience. Excellent Wines, imported direct .rom abroad.
attention^and
Stabling and Loose Boxes. Visitors at this Hotel wUl meet with every
«=°.^^^?|(7^;°5j^j,^Q^jjg5S
LEAMINOTON.
THE REGENT HOTEL.
A First-Class Family Hotel and Hunting Establishment. Flys and Omnibus
meet all the G. W. and L. and X. W. trains.Posting, &c. L. BISHOP, Proprietor.
BUXTON.-ROYAL HOTEL.
Reconstructed, Enlarged, Elegantly Decorated and Furnished. Sheltered Posi-
tion; near to the Baths, Wells, and Gardens. Large Public Rooms; Lawn-Tennis
Ground; Excellent Cuisine; Fine Wines. Moderate charges tariff on application. ;
THE GIIESIIAYIiOTEL,
Upper Saokville Street,
American families and tourists. Tariff fixed, and based on moderate scale.
W. HOLDER, Manager-
BUXTON.-ST. ^Nj^^'S HOTKL^
THE BATHS BY A COVERED COLONNADE.
COKNECTED WITH
CLOSE TO THE CHALYBEATE SPRINGS.
The Great Livery Stables in connection.
Messrs. HAKKl SPy & l^EGKOS.
^ORK^I^Sl^nON HOTEL,
WITH THE CONNECTED STATION.
One of tlie Finest Honses in Oreat Britain.
J. K^Y, Miaiiager.
MATLOCK BATH, DERBY SHIRE-The Switzerland of England,
OBA.ISr, SCOTLA_ND.
SUTHERLAND'S
Great Western Hotel.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED; FIRST CLASS.
Well Known as the First in the Highlands.
COLUMBA,
THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS CLANSMAN,
lONA, LOCH EL.
I
CHEVALIER GLENGARRY,
GLENCOE, MOUNTAINEER,
ISLAY, CLY PESO ALE,
FINGAL, LLNNET,
STAFFA, LOCHAWE,
PIONEER, CYGNET, GONDOLIER, PLOVER,
QUEEN OF THE LAKE, And INVERARAY CASTLE
Sail during the Season for Islay, Oban, Port WilUam, Inverness,
Stafia, lona, Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ross-shire, UllapooL,
Lochinver, and Stornoway
Aflording Tourists an opportunity of Visiting the
Magnificent Scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Comisk, Loch Maree,
and the Pamed Islands of Staffa and lona.
Circular Tourist Tickets are issued on board in connection with the various Railways.
j8®= These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, with
all its watering-places; the Island and Kyles of Bute; Island of Arran;
Mountains of Cowal. Knap-
dale, and Kintyre; Lochfyne; Crinan, with the Islands of Jura, Scarba. Mull, and many
others of
the Western Sea; 'the Whirlpool of Corryvrechan; the Mountains of Lorn, of Morven. of Appin, of
Kingairloch, and Ben- Nevis; luverlochy; the I^nds of Lochiel— the scene of the wanderings of
Prince Charles, and near to where the Clans raised his standard in 'io; Lochaber; the Caledonian
Canal- Loch Lochy; Loch Oich; Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the
celebrated Falls of Foyers. Books descriptive of the route may be had on board flie steamers.
Time-Billswith Maps sent, post free, on application to the Proprietor, DAVID MACBRAYNE.
119 Hope Street, Glasgow.
Glasgow, 1880.
1 y
THE GROSVENOR HOTEL Chester, England,
(IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY.)
This magnificent Hotel is now open to the public, and, having been entirely rebuilt and
famished iu the most elegant stvle, will be f>)und one of the most convenient in the King-
dom. A large COFFEE-ROOM; BILLIARD ROOM also, a spacious and convenient
- ;
for the convenience of Ladies and Families; elegant and spacious BALL-ROOM; all the
BEDROOMS are large and beautifully furnished. Stabling for eighty horses.
An Omnibus attends the Trains, taking Families Free to and from the Hotel.
GEORGE HOTEL,
THE
MELROSE,
IS^OW^
21
imPERIAL HOTEL,
DONEGAL PLACE,
BELFAST, IRELAND.
W. J. JURY, Proprietor.
at fixed moderate charges. Drivers, Boatmen, and ti\iides are paid by the Proprietor, and are mj
allowed to solicit gratuities. The Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend the Trains.
MRS. JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor.
23
HOTEL CHATHAM,
HOLZSCHUCH, Proprietor.
HOTELRUEWINDSOR,
DE 226 RIVOLI.
and healthiest part
first-class Hotel, situated in the finest
This old-e«tablished
of Paris, opposite the Tuileries Garden,
has been entirely altered and improved
the Hotel Amirante. There have
under a new proprietor, formerly director of
Lift, Reading, Sniokmg, and Bath
been added now a Table d'Hote, Hydraulic
American, and German papers.
Rooms. Arrangements for the winter. English,
HENRY SPRENGEL, P roprietor.
^^:^I^:^^h:otel
Entrance, No. 11
bind a,
Eue de rEchelle.
AYENTTE DE L'OPEEA;
AMERICAN BANKERS
AND
FORWARDING AGENTS,
19 RUE SCRIBE, 19,
PARIS.
PARIS.
RESTAURANT DK LA VILI.K DF PARIS,
Rue
Comer of Rue du Quatre Septembre and du Port Mahon.
English and Americans.
Restaurant d la carte and at Fixed Prices. Much frequented by
Private Rooms and Moderate Prices.
Not to be confounded with a neighboring house of same name.
jf B
P^RIS.
CHAS. FREES & HOOPER.
LATE
JOHN EURENDILI
PARIS.
GANTERIE RENE, EX-MANAGEE OP THE GLOVE DEPAETMENT
IN ONK OIi^ a?HE GUiE^T" STORES OF I^^PtlS,
PRICES.
KID GLOVES. SWEDISH GLOVES.
2 Buttons Frs. 3.90 2 Buttons Frs. 2.60
3 4.75 3 " 2.90
4 5.50 4 " 3.50
6 " 6.75 6 " 4.25
8 " 7.75 8 " 4.90
10 " 8.75 10 " 5.90
12 " 10.50 12 " 7.50
SPECIALTY OF LONG GLOVES.
Also the latest fashions and most tasteful styles of all Articles de Fantaisie, such as Hats, Per-
fumery, Veils, Handkerchiefs, Cravats, Scarfs, Parasols, En-Cas, Umbrellas, Fans, Laces^
Flowers, Perfumed Sachets, Plisses, &c.
SHIRTS MADE TO ORDER. ^^j
L ROCH-SAITIER
(Formerly JOHN ARTHUR & CO.),
Agent, to the British, and. -A^merican Embassies,
TAILOR,
NO. 16
TRAVELERS
to his large Stock of Summer and
Winter Goods, adapted especially to
the wants of gentlemen of taste, style,
and quality in clothing.
COUBT DRESSES
^.^^^''''°SJ'''''^""'%
'^^' I
Place de VO?^^^
P A^ R I S
PORT, SHERRY, CHAMPAGNR
BURGUNDIES, LIQUEURS, CLARETS.
ENGLISH, IRISH, AND SCOTCH WHISKIES.
L. ROCH-SAUTIER,
WINE MERCHANT,
BANKER,
HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENT,
10 RUE CASTIGLIONE, PAS^IS.
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31
CANNES.
Hydropathj"; Winter Garden; Special Saloon for Educational Courses by noted Professors.
M. DE LA BLANCHETAIS, formerly Proprietor of Hotel d'Albe, Paris.
MONTE-CARLO.
"LE GRAND HOTEL"
Opened January 1st, 1882.
MAGNIFICENT SITUATION.
250 Rooms, and Lift
N. B. —
The garden, dining - rooms, &c. of the Grand Hotel, and the
,
the privileges of Membership at the " Washington Club " (with the
W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE,
AUTHOR OF "harper's HAND-BOOKS," "THK RISK AND FALL OF THK PARIS COMMUNt,"'
" harper's phrase BOOK," ETC.
& CO., Rue de Rivoli. LONDON W. S. ADAMS & SONS, 59 Fleet Street.
:
33
DIEPPE SEA-BATHING AND CASINO.
^t^.^SON^ 1883.
The Rendezvous in Northern France of the Elite of French and Foreign Society and Clubmen. Theatre (orchestra
of 50 performers). Ball, or Concert every evening. Dancing and Fencing Academy, Gymnasium, Riding-School, and
Skating-Rink. Parisian Restaurant by "the Sea-shore. Two Race Meetings: first, July 31, August 1, 2, 3, 4 ; second,
end of August or first days of September. Card, Reading, and Conversation Rooms. Cercle (Club) des Baina, reserved
for members of the principal Paris clubs and London Athenaeum. French and Foreign Newspapers; Telegraph 0£Bce.
3>^ hours from St. Lazare Station. Direction : Casino, Dieppe, and 14 Rue des Pyramides, Paris.
MENTONE-HOTEL NATIONAL.
New Hotel; superbly situated in a Central Position on the Hill, in the midst of
Olive and Orange Gardens, commanding a fine view of the sea. The best medical
advice. Lift to each floor. Plans of rooms and hotel sent on application.
E. BERTSCH, Proprietor.
34
CABOOeil (Mliij.
THE FINEST BEACH ON THE NORMAN COAST,
HARPER'S PERIODICALS.
Per Year:
HARPER'S MAGAZINE $4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 4 00
HARPER'S BAZAR 4 00
HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Number each week for One Year 10 00
Postage Free to all Subscribers in the United States or Canada.
LARSONNEUX, Proprietor.
DIEPPE.
GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS
Best Situation, near the Casino.
FIBST-CLASS HOUSE, OPEN ALL THE YEAR,
E. X.A.ILLETJX.
ENGLISH SPOKliIIV.
36
VICHY.
GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS.
ROUEN.
GRAND HOTEL
DE LA 16 QUAI
D'ALBION,
BOURSE.
Table dPHole Dinner at Six. Dejef/ners d la Carte. Arrangements ilade. Large and Small
Apartments. Charges Moderate. English Spoken. E. BOUTE LLEU,
I Proprietor.
UliTER-ROS8EL, Proprietor.
4 37
MARSEILLES.
—
X. B. Get Etablissement est le seul a Marseille ou les omribus et voitures
entrent dans uue cour couverte k I'instar du Grand Hotel a Paris.
c^^isrES.
HOTEL BEAU SITE
AND
HOTEL DE L'ESTEREL.
Both Situated at the West End of Cannes,
In the midst of Most Splendid Grounds, commTinicating, and adjoining
Lord Brongham's Property—the healthiest part of the Town,
.«: , ::
^,/ GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor.
AIZ-LES-BAINS.
IS h.ovirs from I*aris ; 12 hours from jVIarseilles ; 3 liours from
Geneva; 7 Yxoxxth from Turin.
AIX-LES-BAINS.
LEGHORN.-GRAND
Opened June
HOTEL.
Ist, 1884,
POETA A MAEE, OPPOSITE THE BATHS PANOALDI.
Oneof the finest, most comfortable hotels in Italy, in the middle of a large
Garden. Beautiful view of the Sea and the Mountains. Hydraulic Lift, Billiards,
Baths, &c. Pension during the Spring, Autumn, and Winter Seasons.
J. SPATZ.
CO-PROPRIETOR OF THE GRAND HOTEL AT MILAN.
" GRAND HOTEL " VENICE.
" " " GRAND HOTEL " LOCARNO.
HOTEITdE LUNIVERS.
FLORENCE.—inULL SOXJTH:.
Every Comfort of the Best Hotels. Spacious Suite of Apartments for winter sojourn; Beauti-
ful Garden. Mr. S. Barsaxtim, Manager.
Pension arrangements; moderate charges. Recommended to English and Americans.
N, B.— Table d'Hote, Wine included. G. M. SCHILLER, Proprietor.
H. BOSI, MOSAICS,
MANUFACTURER,
1 Piazza S. Trinita, 1 (corner Via Tornabuoni).
Large and Magnificent Collection. Patronized by all the crowned
heads of Europe. Fixed prices invariable. —
FLORENCE.
ARTISTIC MAJOLICA,
DECORATIVE AND FOR USE.
ROME.-HOTEL DE LA MINERVE.
This house, renowned for its moderate charges, comfort, and irreproachable attendanoe, is
situated in U\g centre of Rome, in the Healthiest Position, ch)s:e to the principal monu-
ments, and near the Capitol, the Pantheon, the Corso, I'ost and Telcgrajth Othces, &c. Table
d'Hote; Reading, Conversation, and Smoking Rooms; Foreign Journals; Baths. iScc. Servants
speaking principal languages. jVXr. J". SA.XJ~VE.
Rome.-HOTEL CONTINENTAL,
OPPOSITE THE STATION,
In the highest and healthiest part of Rome, and nearest the Antiquities and Af-
tractions. Same proprietor as the well-known HOTEL D'ALLEMAGNE, in the
centre of the city, and of the HOTEL DE TURIN at Mentoue. P. LUGANI.
QUIRINALE HOTEL,
Via Nazionale.
ONLY HOTEL IN ROME OF GREAT SIZE BUILT
EXPRESSLY FOR A HOTEL.
HOTEL COSTANZl.
This first-class Hotel contains 350 Sleeping-Rooms and Saloons,
all elegantly furnished. Large Dinino^, Reading, and Billiard Rooms;
Lift; Fine Gardens. The Hotel is built on the highest and healthiest
position of Rome, and from many of its rooms commands a beautiful
view over the town.
NAPLES.
GRAND HOTEL.
FH^iST-CLASS AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL, situ-
ated in the finest and most select part of Naples, with magnificent
views of the Town, Vesuvius, and the Ba^. Hydraulic Lift.
NAPLES.
P. WYSS, SIJ^ISS WATCH-MAKER,
STRADA SANTA BRIGIDA 47 and 47bis.
largest assortment of all kinds of Stem-winders. Watches repaired in a few hour? most
efficiently, with guarantee for one year. ,,
'
iv
Naples.-HOTEL TRAMONTANO, BEAU RIVAGE.
Situated on the most picturesque point of the Corso Yittorio Emanuele com- ;
manding views of Mount Vesuvius, the Islands of Capri, Posilippo, the entire Coa?t
Line extending between Sorrento and Naples, &c. Charges moderate.
K B.— All communications to be addressed to MICHAEL BRAZIL DOYLE. Director.
HOTEL TRAMONTANO,
80RR£]\T0.
Directly opposite NAPLES, with magnificent view of the Bav and itr- .surroundings.
ENGJ-LISH PROPRITGTOR.
Venice.-HOTEL
OLD-ESTABLISHED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL,
DE E'EXJROFE.
On the Grand Canal, opposite the Ciiurcli of L.a Salute.
Large and Small Apartments, for Families and Gentlemen. Visitors will find
this house very comfortable, well situated, and reasonable in charges. Southern
exposure. MARSEIL LE FRERES, Proprietors.
This beautiful tirst-class Hotel is situated uu ilu- Graud Canal. wiUi.n a lew steps oi iiie juuge s
Palace, ia the most dellgbtfal positiua iu Venice. It contains 170 Chambers, Saloons for
Conversation, Smoking. Reading, and Billiards. Au Interpreter will be I'ouud at the slatioa
on the arrival of each train. GEXuVESl & t'AMPI, Proprietors.
^E^ICE
Near
GRAND HOTEL D'lTALIE,
St. Mark's Square, on the Grand Canal, facing the Church of St. Maria Salute. Fresh and
Salt Water Baths ready at all hours. Celebrated for its Restaurant and Vienna Beer. The splen-
did Restaurant "Grunwald" belongs to the same proprietor. BAUER GRUNWALD. Peopriktor.
45
VENICE:.
VENETIAN LACE.
M. JESURUM & CO.,
MILAN, Italy.
MADRID.
FONDA (HOTEL) DE PARIS,
Oil the Piierta del Sol.
SEVILLA.
Piussels^ranOotel
House, 79 Rue
Englisli '7'7 and.
de saxe.
T*^e\ive.
Admirably situated near the Boulevards. Theatres, and in ttvo minult^s' walk from the North
Railway Station. This House oflTers to Families, Tourists, and Merchants every Comfort, and
Spacious, Comfortable, and Airy Apartments. Moderate Prices. Tarifls in every Room. English
Daily Newspapers. Table d'Hote at Five and Half-past Si.x o'Clock.
Waterloo Coach leaves the Hotel every Morning at 9.30. M. Grader-Mkcrisse, Proprietor.
WAUTEES,
Mademoiselle E. Proprietress.
~
G HENT (GAN D).
HOTEL ROYAL.
Situated in the centre of the City, on the Place d'Arraes. Con-
tiguous to all Public Establishments and Railway Station. Travellers
will find every comfort at this Hotel, and experience prompt atten-
tion from the attendants. Arrangements made with Famijies at very
Moderate Prices during the Winter Season.
Spa.-HOTEL D'ORANGE,
NEXT DOOR TO THE CASINO,
AND CLOSS TO THE BATHS AND 'POUHON."
T^. B.— Tlie Proprietor, IVEadame 3VIXJX-»IL.EIi, spea-ks Englisli.
OSTEND.-HOTEL FONTAINE.
Universal Reputation. The Laroest and Best in Ostend. OPEN
ALL THE YEAR ROUND. Dining-Room for 200 Covers. Pict-
ure-Gallery. Ladies', Reading, Smoking, Music, and Conversation
Rooms. Charores Moderate.
50
BELGIUM.] B PA.. [BELGIUM.
CHALYBEATE WATERS.
Tie Most Ancient, and tlie Rictiest in Iron, in ttie World,
MAGNIFICENT CASINO.
CONVERSATION, READING, AND CARD ROOMS.
Balls and Evening Dances, Theatre, Day and Evening Concerts, Fetes
of all descriptions.
TELEGMAJPH.
>J" B.—For all information required, American travellers are requested to apply to
the Direction of the Casino and of the Fetes of Spa.
51
BRUSSELS
HOTEL DE SUEDE.
Amoni tlie oltlest,liest, anil most renowiiefl in Belgium,
OSTEND
Mr. L. DEL BOUILLE,
BANKER,
Ostend House, 10 A-ve. Leopold.
PROPRIETOR OF THE
V. MICHEXS, Proprietor.
Brussels.-RESTAURANT DESTROVENCM,
40 EUE EOYALE, OPPOSITE THE PAEK,
Near the Royal Palace, the Ministries, the Palace of Justice, and Theatres. First-class Estab-
lishment with Private Rooms and Saloons, and Service a la Carte, and at Fixed Prices.
V. FONTEYNE.
OsTEND— HOTEL DIJ PHARE,
On the Sea-Dike, opposite the Estacades, and near to the Kursaal.
Large and Small Apartments. Table d^Hote and Restaurant a la Carte, and at
Fixed Prices. House of the First Order. Excellent Wiue-Cellar.
E. BILLIARD.
OSTEND-HOTEL DE LA PLAGE.
Fiist-classand Best-Patronized Hotel and Restaurant in Ostend.
Beautiful Position on the New Dike, facing the Sea, and close to the Casino.
L. THOrSI-A., Proprietor,
Miimiii
HAKPKU'JS PHRA!5il>BOOK.
Harper's Phrase-Book; or, Hand-Book of Travel-Talk for Travellers and Schools. Being a Guide
to Conversation in English, French, German, and Italian, on a New and Improved Method.
Intended to accompany "Harper's Hand-Book for Travellers.'' By W. Pembroke Fetridge,
assisted by Professors of Heidelberg University. With concise and explicit Rules for the Pro-
nunciation of the different Languages. Square 4to, Flexible Cloth. .$1.50.
HARPER & BROTHERS, New York.
C^~ Sent, carriage paid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price.
54
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIVERB.
ELEGANT, FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
Situated, in the Centre of the City, between the Two
liail-way Stations.
lerto.-H9TEL
Large, Sx:)ac'ious,
IS PAIS BAS.
Moderate Priced.
VAN DEiV BRIXK, Proprietor.
Haarlem— HOTEI.
BKST
hoxtse:.
FUNCKLER.
For years patronized by English and American Travellers.
CLOSE TO THE STATION', IX THE KRUISTRAAT.
P. C. C. JACOB!, Proprietor.
posite the Royal Park and the Rhine Railway Station. Beautiful Garden, and
Unsiu-passed Situation. C. J. VAN VELSEN", Proprietor.
AMSTERDAM.-HOTEL KRASNOPOIIk\'
AND CAFfi RESTAURANT.
WARMOESSTRAAT (close to the r>am).
One of the Sights of Amsterdam.
bo
ANTWERP.
Facing the Central Railway Station (Friedrichstrapse), (icDrgen Street, Friedrichs Street,
Doiotheen iStreet.
The "Central Hotel" has been enlarged by a Dependance containing 100 Rooms and
Saloons, recently fitted with all desirable modern comfort.
The most agreeable and comfortable habitation which Berlin can offer to Foreigners.
The only first-class Hotel contiguous to the Central Station, the Cathr-dra!, und tlie IJhiu.'. 300 Roon s end
J^alom*. Fine view over the lihine. Garden and Baths. French Cook. )iunibu»es at every train. fSale of clioic
<
•
Vtiiin•
Wiiies for exportation, &c. Taritfs in ererv room. Hot an;l Cold Baths in tlie Hotel. Over 45,nO ) visit .s
>inp at Lliis Hotel yearlv. Post and Telegraph Office. RAIl.WAV TICKK l.s ANU LUi.GACE KlitilSTEIED !o
AW DKSriNATION IN THE HOTE;.. Proprietor, Mr. FUIEUKICH, Purveyor in Hhiue Wines to the E.ii,,cror
of vjcniuiny, &c., ;uid Proprietor of the iA:iebrated TAUXLS JilAEUAL WATEK.
coLoansTK.
JOHN MARIA FARINA,
OPPOSITE THE JULICHS-PLACE,
The Most Ancient Distiller of the
I had furn shed it for the pMrpose of selling it for my account. The Eau de Cologne shops oppo
site the Cathedral have no connection with me.
The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it pensonally in my own
house, OPPOSITE THE JOlichs-Place. JOH.AIVN 1?I.\KIA FARIISA,
CoLOGSB, January, 1663. Gi:(ii:>. I iiliU DEM JuLICHS-Pr.ATZ.
5P-
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
BrnGENT^HOTEL YICTORI A.
Op.posite the Na-
Position on the Banks of the Rhine; Terrace.
Beaiitiftil
" Germania." Close to Station and Steainhcat Landi..-. Ar-
tional Monument,
rangements for Prolonged Stay. J. H. SOHERR, Proprietor.
moderate prices. 59
EMS (Baths of).
MINERAL SPRINGS
(Chloride of Sodium, a3°-4° Heaumur ).
and Princess of Wales, the Princes Alfred and Arthur, have favored this Hotel with their visit and the Proprietor
;
has been honored with the household of the Prince Alfred during the time of his study at Bunn
This Hotel is charmingly situated on the banks of the Khine, commands the most beautiful view of the Seve»
Mountains, facing the landing-place of the Rhine Steamers, and n-'nr the Railway Station. This Hotel combines ev-
ery comfort with moderate charges and its situation is so cinvenient that Travelers will find it a highly agreeable
;
place of residence or of temporary sojourn, to which a splendid garden of four acres long, laid out in the English
•tvie, will greatly contribute. For families or single jx-rsons de.sirous to stay for the winter tlw most advantageous ar-
ra'ngitnt-nt can IJe made for board and lodging Table d'hote at half past and 5 o'clock M:-. El.MElCIEL, Proprrelor.
1
Frankfort.-HOTELl^NGLETERRE,
First-Olass House, of European Eeputation.
BERTHOLD FAMILY, Proprietors. Mr. SAEGMULLER, Director.
60
EMS
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE
(Englischer Kof).
Old Renowned, First-Class House. Largest in Ems. Beautiful Po-
sition, opposite Royal Baths, close to the Casino. Beautiful Garden.
MOIsTjI^CO
HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE.
Beautiful Position, facing the Sea,
ON THE MONACO ROAD.
Fine, First-Class House, close to Casino. Arraiifrements for Pro-
longed Stay. F. SCHMITT, Proprietor.
'A
N ^:xmJ>-. ^
w
»r3
CD
Strasburg-HOTETD'ANGLETERRE;
Large, First-Class House, opposite Central Station.
NEAR CATHEDRAL, POST .^\D TELEGRAPH OFFICES.
C. INIAXHIS, Proprietor.
5 61
KREUZNACH (Baths of), GERMANY.
HOIEl AHD RtSTAnRAHI IN COHKCTION.
Open the 1st of May,
Saline Springs of Iodine and Bromine. Komantic En-
virons. Healthy Climate. Mineral Baths in all the Ho-
tels and Private Boarding-Houses, through Pipes from
the Springs. Drinking Cure at the Elizabeth Spring,
with New Drinking-Hall. Inhalation, Douches, and Vapor
Baths. All the Agreeable Attributes of a First-Class
Bathing -Place. Splendid Band (Manssfeld Orchestra),
Concerts, Reunions, Theatre, Fireworks, and Regattas.
Reading-Room, with Newspapers in all Languages.
SCHWALBACH 1\
(Baths
THE TAUNUS, PRUSSIAN PROVINCE OF HESSE-NASSAU.
of),
The strongest, Clear, Iron Springs, with Rich Quantity of Carbonic Acid. Mud Baths. 300
Metres above the Sea. Beautiful Bathing Installation. Renowned for cases of Poverty of Blood
and Consequent Diseases. Railway Stations Wiesbaden, Zollhaus, and Eltville. Omnibus and
:
SCHWALBACH.-HOTEL ALLEESAAL
FIRST AND LARGEST HOUSE SINCE 1796. CLOSE TO KURSAAL.
Arraugeiuents for Stay, Villa, &c.
F. GrREBERT S0:N^S, Proprietors.
WIESBAI^EN.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
First-class Honse, on the Quai, uear the Pnrk. Favorite of American Travele'-s. American
and English Newspapers. Comfort and Satisfaction insured by the Pers->ni>l Snpe'-inrer.d-
©nceofthe I^roprietox-; IVtr. XYSSF^'N'-
64
HOMBURG
A\ ILDB^X).
HOTEL KLUMPP. ]Mr. AVINI. I£LXJ]\IF»F, Proprietor.
This First Class Hotel— contaiuiug 4.5 Saloons and 235 Bodrooins. with a separate Rreakfa^t
and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a very extensive
—
and elegant Diniug-Rooni, an artificial Garden over the river ;s s tuated opposite the Hath and
Conversation Houses, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its
Elegant and Comfortable Apartments, (lood Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide -spread
reputation as an Excellent Hotel. Table dHote at one and five oclock; Breakfai^ts and Suppers
a la Ciirte. Exchange ()1Q( e. Correspondent of the principal Ranking Houses of London for the
payment of Circular Notes and Ixjtters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to and from each
train; line Private Carr.ages when requested. Excellent Accommodation.
Heidelberg.
Splemliil Situation. Magnificent
—Grand Hotel.
View from 42 Balconies. Opposite Railway
Station and Promenade. Englisli Home Comforts and Moderate Charges.
Proprietoi-,
L.U'E
EMIL THOMA,
MANAGER VICTORIA HOTEL, VENICE.
WTJRZBXJR O.
HOTEL THE
KRONPRINZ,
ROYAL
OPPOSITE PALACE.
JUIilUS AMMOU, Proprietor.
65
Heidelberg*.— Hotel Prince Charles.
il!^=°THE HOTEL NEAREST TO THE CASTLE— eight minutes' walk only— and two
minutes' walk from the Neckar Bridge. It has the view of the Ruins from nearly all its windows
and balconies. Lately considerably enlarged by a new wing, containing, besides a number of Bath-
Rooms, a splendid Dining-Room, Breakfast- Room, Reading- l-'oom, and Smoking-Room. ..^^^
—
—
This first-class Family Hotel patronized by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess
of Wales and Prince Alfred is without question the largest and best situated Establishment in the
town for Families and Tourists who are visiting merely the celebrated Castle, or for making a
longer stay, being near all the attractive points, and at the foot of the Castle.
The Hotel is conducted on the most liberal scale, under the personal superintendence of the
Proprietors, iUfssrs. SOMMER & ELLMEK.
HEIDELBERG.
The Nearest First-Class Hotel to the Station.
HOTEL SCHRIEDER.
Fine large Garden. Beautiful view of the Castle. First-class Kitchen and very good Wmea
Pension during the w^hole year. Light and Service not charged. Proprietor, Wilh. Back Wwe.
66
BADEN-BADEN.
Old Eenowned Alkaline Chlor. Sod. Springs of 44-69' C.
Chlor. Lithium Spring of Preponderous Contents.
BADEN-BADEN-HOTEL BELLEVUE.
Beautifully Situated on the Allee de Licliteuthal, in the centre of a line Park.
Patronized by the Highest Families in Europe. Arrangements.
FRIEDRICH-STRASSE, 1.
To the Left of the Conversationshaus, between the Theatre and Hotel Messmer.
67
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, BADEN.
O. KAH, Proprietoe.
This house issituated in the finest position in Baden-Badeii, immediately opposite the
Dnnkhalle and Conversation House. Splendidly furnished. Fine Wine- Cellar. Cuisine
not surpassed by any in Germany.
BADEX-B4DEX.
HOLLAND HOTEL, AND DEPENDENCE "AU BEAU-SEJOUR."
First-Class Establishment, with a beautiful Garden nearest the
Conversation-House and Frederics Baths.
Fixed moderate charges for everything. Excellent Cooking. Prize
Medals for Wines: Vienna, 1873, Philadelphia, 1876, (fee.
Arrangements made for a prolonged stay.
A. ROESSLER, Proprietor.
HOTEL DE RUSSIE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE OF OLD STANDING,
Thoroughly renovated and refurnished. Beautiful situation on the
Promenade, near the Kursaal, in its own Garden, commanding a fine
view. Elegantly Furnished. Good Cuisine and Attendance.
A. & G. MOERCH, Proprietors.
68
HOTEL VICTORIA,
F.
BADEN-BADEN. G-R-OsSlrlOi^Z, Proprietor.
This first-class Hotel is heanlifnUy situated in the immediate virinity of the promenade and
conversation-house, and contaias liO rooms and saloons for private families and single
The table and wines are the verv lM?st; prires inoderate. Table d bote, 5 o'clock.
ENGLISH SPOKEN BY ALL THE SERVANTS.
TRIJBEHa.
Centre of the world-renowned Black Forest Railroad of Baden.
COPENH^GEISr.
HOTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK.
THIS FIIJST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest c]as< of English
and American travellers, affords first-rate accommodation for Families and Single
Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal Palace, overlooking the King's
Square. Excellent Table d'Hote. Private Dinners. Best Attendance. Reading-
Room. Hot Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and American newspapers.
All languages spoken. Vert/ moderate charges. llie only Vienna Coff'ee-Hottse.
R. KLUM, Proprietor,
Karlsruhe.-HOTEL CERMANIA,
SITUATED A FEW MINUTES FROM THE RAILWAY STATION, ON THE PUBLIC GARDENS.
This First-class Hotel is furnished with every modern comfort. 100 Rooms and Suites of
Apartments. Bed and attendance from 2 Marks. The whole of the house heated so as to insure
comfort to "Winter Visitors, for whom also Special Arrangements are m^de. Baths; Lift. Omni-
buses at the Station. JOSEF LEERS, Proprietor.
69
KISSINGEN (Baths of).
hoteFsanner.
In a most beautiful position, with free outlook on
all sides.
Near the Bath Establishment, the Promenade, and
Springs.
120 Rooms, 20 Balconies, and Fii'e-pi'oof Stairways.
Large, shady Ten-ace and beautiful Grounds.
Known as one of the best and most-frequented ho-
tels of Kissingen.
Excellent Cuisine and Attendance. Large Table
d'Hote and moderate prices. Omnibus at Stadon.
HOTEL KAISERHOF.
First-Class House, in beautiful situation, opposite the Promenade,
and close to the Springs and Establishment of Baths.
Good Cuisine and Attendance. Arrangements made for a long
stay. Omnibus at Railway Station.
MUNICH.
13 ODEONSPLATZ.
Every Variety at Wholesale Prices. Prizes and Decorations at several Exhibitions for Excel-
lence of Workmanship.
70
STKASBURG.
HOTEL NATIOlSr^L.
This first-class estHblishment of modern construction, opposite the station, with a splendid view of the Vospes rnnge,
unites all the best conditions of comfort and elegance. Redierche Cuisine, Table d'Hote and Restaurant a la Carte.
Genuine Wines of the Best Vintages. Conversation and Reading Rooms. Baths on all Floors. Perfected Lift. Mod-
erate Charges. L.OSTERMANN, formerly Co-proprietor and Director of the Hotel de Paris.
NUREMBERG,
"iS^iM^Si
Hotel zum Strauss (Ostrich),
HOTEL DE L'AUTMCHE.
First-Class Hou?o. Xewly Built. 150 Rooms. Central situation near Churches,
Museums, Theatre, &c. Baths and Carriasres. Omnibus at Station.
HOTEL DE BAVIERE.
This First-Class and Superior Hotel, situated in the centre of the to-vra, close to the river, is
highly spoken of by English and American Travelers for its general comfort and moderate charges.
ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS.
Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses to and from each Train. English Church in the Hotel.
IDIVIIN^E SKRVICE EVERY SUNJDAJ^.
MILAN.
ULRICH &, CO,
21 Via Bigli,
American and English Bankers;
Correspondents and Agents
OF THE FIRST BANKING-HOUSES OF EUROPE AND THE
UNITED STATES OF A:MERICA.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE (Englischer Hof).—PRAGUE.
Proprietor, Mr. F. HUTTIG.
This lirst-rate Establishment is much frequented by English travelers for its moderate
ch,irire!5, comforl, and cleanliness. It is situated near the Railway Station and
Po^t-Office
Table d'hote, 4 o'clock. Dinner a la carte or at tixed price at any hour. En^li^h new<»naner''
Euirlish and French spoken.
"^ ^h f -.
wfLtTi.irlTtr.i»r|^£~=5
vm- Mft_iii:IIiiilia:^L«»«N^^
MUNICH.
STAINEF
OF EVERY
GLASS
DESCRIPTION.
5&iiniglirjje JlmfglnsiiinlcrEi.
23 Briennerstrasse, 23,
CLOSE TO THE INI^XI iSII L I^N STR.A.S SB.
HERR F. X. ZETTL.CR, Director.
73
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL,
MUNICH.
This First-Class Hotel is situated in the new Maximilian Street, which is justly considered on<
of the finest Streets in Germany, as well for its magnificent and grand buildings, as for its beautifu'"
ornamental promenade. It is fitted up in a luxurious style, combiuing elegance and comfort, ami
possesses all the modern accomplishments of a first-rate establii-hment. The charges are mode]-at<
and fixed. AUG. SCHIMONHEIRS.
BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT,
MUNICH. LONDON,
1 Maximilian s. w.
Strasse, 17 Charles Street,
E. A. FLEISCHMANN'S
FINE ART GALLERY,
PROPRIETORS •.
DRESDEN
mW mW& :
CO.,
M'ilsdrufler-Strasse, No. 1,
kerloan Bankefs,^
in connection with tlicL'.S. Consulate.
Berlin. —Restaurant
33 UNTER DEN LINDEN.
Strub.
OLOSE TO EOYAL PALAOE, THEATRE, AND CENTRAL STATION.
Dinners at Fixed Prices and d la carte. Private Rooms, &c.
75
MUNICH.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE
(English Hotel—Englischer Hof ).
HAMBURG. ~ ~
STREIT S HOTEL.
Tins Superior First-Class Hotel for
elegance, with all the luxuries of home. This Hotel has for a
number of years secured a patronage of the highest respectabil.
ity, and Mr. Streit, the proprietor, w^ill spare no endeavors to give
satisfaction. Table-d'Hote at 4 o'clock.
76
VICTORIA HOTEL,
DRESDEN.
This first-rate Establishment,
"THE KAISERHOF,"
On llie Wilhelmsplatz and Zietlienplatz.
O BERLI?^.
GRANDEST HOTEL OF FIRST HANK
LEIPZIG-HOTEL HAUFFE.
FIRST R^NK.
Madaine WE, HAUFFE, Proprietor.
C. OERTGE, Proprietor.
L E I P Z I a.
RESTAURANT KITZING AND HELBIG.
First and most Elegant Restaurant in Leipzig.
WELL KNOWN FOR EXCELLENT CUISINE AND WINES.
78
LEIF^ZIG^.
HOTEL SEDAN.
First-Class, New House,
WITH EVERY COMFORT.
C. W. SCHMIDT, Froprietor.
HOTEL PRINCE
Beautiful Position on Square of
F^RICH WILHELM,
Same Name, near Station. First Cla.«s, Rlogant Hou.«c. with
Garden and every Modern convenience. C. IS£RLOH, Proprietor.
This House
Class Hotel.
HOTEL
is
Terms moderate.
IIOYA.L.
situated near the Station, and contains the comforts and luxuries of a First-
Special arrangements made for a leuethened stav. Fine, large
Garden. Telephone. Messrs. C Hit 1ST, Proprietors.
h^mbi.:rg.
u 55
C. UHL, Director.
80
HANOVER.
"HAMBURG-HOTEL DE L'EUROPF
First class Hou.se. of old reputation, patronized by H. R. H. the Prinie of Wales, and distin-
guished English families. In most Be.iuiUiil i,<x;alioii on the .Ulster- Ba.ssin. iw) Rooms and
yalonns, provided with every Comfort of Mofiorn Times. Baths, etc. Hydraul r Lift. Table
dHote at 4 o'.lock.
Messrs. l{|{KTTSrH\KIDKR & BANDM, Proprietors.
HAMBURG.-HOTEL MOSEII,
New and Beautifully Furnished, in the Fint-st Quarter of the Town, oii-'osite the Exchange and
the Alster-Bassin. On the Ground floor are the Table d'Hoti' Dining Room. 'ofe. Bc'^/unniif.
Reading and Conversation Rooms, with all Best Newspapers. Cold and Waruj Baths. (Jood Ser-
vice. .Modente Prices.
.T. C. IVIOSP^IR, Proprietor.
HlMM^^OTErGERM ANIA.
Corner cf the Bcrg-cdorfer and 2d Elosterstxasse.
Near Berlin and Paris Stations and Piers of the Transatlantio Steamers. Quite \ew,
Comfortably Furnished Rooms Cafe li'.^/aurinit.
- I'able d' Hot'' at 2.30. (iood Attendance.
Moderate Charges. English, French." and Swedish spoken. q SCHILLER PrOD
81
irtli festeri of Austria Railway.
TO ^lEIsTN^^.
From Samblirg^ via Stendal, Roderau, Riesa, Dresden,
Lissa, Kolin, Deutschbrod, and Znaim.
HOUES OF DEPAETUEE.
From Vienna for the North at 8.30 P.M. leave Hamburg for
;
—
F. B. Further information supplied on addressing station-
masters, or the
rURECTIOTsT DER
K. K. PRIV. OESTERR. NORDWESTBAHN, VIENNA.
82
PRAGUE.
HOTEL^DE SAXE.
Patronized by Imperial Family of Austria. Beautiful Part of Town
(Hybernstrasse), close to Dresden and Vienna Stations.
Most Elegantly Furnished, with Exceptionally Moderate Prices.
V. BE]V£:n, Proprietor.
CARLSBAD.
WIESINGER'S HOTEL NATIONAL
On the " Neuen Gartenzeilstrasse." Open all the year. This Hotel, .<^itu-
ated next to the City Park, and only 4 minutes from all the ^Mineral Springs,
commands a splendid view of the Mountains, and is recommended to families
and travellers in general. Large dining-rooms and shad}' garden. Good
German and French Cooking. Moderate charges. The Proprietor, ANT.
WIESINGER, has left his hotel, Drei Fasaiien, on account of his increas-
ing business in the above Hotel.
wsyjMiiTImidlffmH,
^
The Two Fir.^t-rlas.s, Hest Restaurants of Carlsbad. Favorite Rendezvous and Dining Resort
of Visitors. The Curhaus Restaurant contains ihe <mly Comploie yet of Furoiirn Newspajwrs in
Carlsbad. The Stadtpark Restaurant, in the Town Park, is a lovely place to i>a.i.< the evening.
bago ; brilliant Results in Effects from Shot and Sword Wounds, and after
Fracture of Bones, in Stiffness of Joints, and Curvatures.
Beautiful, thoroughly protected Position in a broad Valley, surrounded
by the Mountain Forests of the Erz and Mittel Ranges. Mild, even Climate.
Magnificent Park and Garden Promenades, Concerts of the Town Bath-Or-
chestra, and the Austrian Military Band. Reunions, Theatre with Operatic
Representations, etc. Bali-Room, Reading-Room, Churches of various Creeds,
Two Railway Stations.
SnfiBcient Accommodation assured by the Kaiserbad, the Steinbad, and the
Stadtbad in Teplitz, the Schlangenbad and the Neubad in Schonau, and numer-
ous Private Houses.
Number of Visitors in Teplitz-Schonau in 1883, over 30,000.
All information given and lodgings secured in Teplipz by the Bader-
inspectorat of Teplitz, and in Schonau by the Biirgermeisteramt of Schonau.
~FRANZENSBAD
May
Season from
(BATHS 1st to Sept. 30tli.
OF).
Direct Kailway Communication
with the Principal Cities of the Coiuinciit.
Alkali-Saline Ferruginous Waters, of strengthening Iron with most easily dissolv-
able Salts. Ferruginous Carbonic Acid Batlis, the most healing of all known Mud-
batlis, Gaseous Carbonic Acid Baths, and Vapor Batlis. Over 500 Rooms in 4 Ele-
gant Bath Establishments. InPoverty of tbe Blood, and all Consequent Diseases,
Weaknesses, especially of Digestion and of the Abdomen. Women's Diseases, in Mus-
cular Complaints, Nervous Diseases, Chronic Catarrh of all 3Iucous Mem-
branes, Chronic S^veats and Loss of Strength following any Di.sease, these Waters
are most Kfficacious.
Miignificent Mountain Air, elegant Hotels and Private Houses, with over 4000
Rooms, moderate Prices, large Hall, Conversation and Heading Booms, fine
Town Orchestra, Concerts, Theatre. Keunions, Balls. Numerous Fxcursions.
9000 Guests. Churches of all Creeds. Mineral Water of all Springs carefully exi)cdited
to any destination. Further information supplied by the
BUrgermeistcramt in Franzensbad.
V E V E Y.
HOTEL MONNET,
OR TROIS COURONNES.
T. SCHOTT, Proprietor.
VIENNA—"HOTEL METROPOLE."
UIMiSiUASSi:. I K.WZ-JOSKFS.QIAI.
FIRST-CLASS AND BEST-SITUATED HOTEL.
300 Avpll - fiiri»i>:lied Bedrooms and Sitting:- Kooms (from 1 fl upwards).
Heading- Ifooni with the London Tlnns. Ga'irnvnii'.s MeasenqT. and Amoricm
sii|i;.lio(t
Papers. Lift. I and Tck-graph-Oflicc in the Hotel. Arrangements cm be made (or a
:ith.>
protracted stay at moderate prices. Omnibuses to and from the .-Station
L. SPEISER, Manager.
TRCHL (AUSTRTA^X
HOTEL
Magnificent \ iow over
Mftgniticent Structure.
FORMERLY
Town and Conntry.
10 .Minutes from Station.
BAUER,
Large Park. Fir Forest.
Baths (also Sulphur ones) in
Jloderate Lr ce;
House.
6 85
GMUNDEN (UPPER AUSTRIA).
On the Shores of the Charming Traun Lake (Traunsee).
STATION OF THE ELIZABETH-WESTERN RAILWAY, AND THE
SALZKAMMERi^JLT RAILWAY.
SKASO^ FaS«.^a Jl'i^IiO i to oct. i.
CURES.— Saline, Mother I.ye, Pine Needle, Mud, Sulphur, Shower, Va-
Lake Baths. Whey Cure, and Mineral Waters of all Countries. In the
por, and
Inhalation Chamber with Spray of Brine, Fir, and Pine
Hotel Bellevue Garden an
Steam, and a Pneumatic Chamber for 6 persons, with Compressed Air, the Finest
Establishment of the kind in the Summer Resorts of Austria, and the Best Remedy
for Shortness of Breath, Emphysis, Chronic Bronchial Catarrh, Nervous
Asthma, Slimy Coating of the Lungs, and Poverty of the Blood. Swim-
ming and cold Bath House, and Gymnasium. Cold-W^ater Cure.
COMFORT AND CONVENIENCES.—Music twice daily, partly on the F>-
planade, Cursalon. Every Saturday Dancing Parties in the Cursaal
partly in the
without Entrance Fee. Concerts, Tombolas, and other Entertainments Frequently.
Theatre. All Newspapers in the Keading-Koom. Finest Walks and Excursions.
Frequent Pleasure Parties on the Lake with Steamers and Gondolas. Splendid
Hotels, numerous Villas and lodgings. All Information supplied by the
CTJR-COMITE. Gmunden.
HARPER'8 PHRA8F.-BOOK.
Harper's Phrase-Book; or, Hand-Book of Travel-Talk for Travellers and Schools. Being a Guide
to Conversation in English, French, German, and Italian, on a New and Improved Method.
Intended to accompany "Harper's Hand-Book for Travellers." By W. Pkmbkoke Fetridge,
assisted by Professors of Heidelberg University. With concise and explicit Rules for the Pro-
num-iatiou of the different Languages. Square ito, Flexible Cloth, .$1.50.
HARPER & BROTHERS, New York.
SW Sent, carriage paid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price,
86
VI-ENNA.,
LAMB HOTEL
GOLDEN(GOLDENES LAMM),
PRATERSTRASSE.
N. B.— Do not confound with Hotel of Same Name on the Wieden. Situated in most healthy
part of Austrian capital, in the Prate rstrassc, near Fashionable Promenades. Commands fine view
of Danube and Quays, close to Hungarian and Turkish Steamer Pier, and Northern and North-
Western Railway Stations. 300 Elegantly Furnished Rooms. Suites of Comfortable .Apartments.
Excellent Cuisine. English and American Journals. FRA^'Z HAUPTMA>'>', Proprietor.
GREAT ASSORTMENT OF
Elegant Articles fof the Use of Travellers.
ALL AUTICLES manufactured in this world-renowned
establishment are sold at
FIXED WHOLESALE miCES.
Manufactory, VIENNA, 6 Andreasgasse.
DEI'OTS:
VIENNA, No. ao Grabeii, only;
PARI8, No. 6 Boulevard de§ Capncines.
87
VIENNA
HARPER'S PERIODICALS.
Per Year:
HARPER'S MAGAZINE $4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 4 00
HARPER'S BAZAR 4 00
HARPER'S YOUXG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIX SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Xiimber each week for One Year 10 00
Postage Free to all Subscribers in the United States or Canada.
BUDAPEST (HixGAKv).
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
First-Class House. Patronized by 11. It. H.
the Prince of Wales, H. R. H. the Comtc* de
Paris, H. R.H. the Due de Nemours, li. S. H.
the Duke of Coburor, &c., <fcc.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF,
WITH ITS DEPENDENCIES,
AND
LUZERNERHOF
First-classEstablishments; splendid position on the
Lake ;view of the Righi and Pilate. Apartments for Fam-
ilies and Tourists. Restaurant; Table d'Hote a la carte.
HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors.
90
GRAID HOTEL DE LA PAIX
GENEVA. SWITZERLAND.
scuvnazERaoF hotel.
The ScnwEizr.EiioF (1S71, greatly enlaicred) is known to American travelers as one of the
best hotels in Switzerland. Its position, opposite the celebrated "Falls of the Rhine," is
mafruificent. Fine Park and Garden. Unrivaled panoramic view of the Alps. Healthy
climate. Church Service. Fair Trout Fishing. Prices moderate. Arrangements for Fana-
ilies. Hotel Omnibases at Schaffhausen and Nenhause!!.
BASLE.
ZURICH.
HOTEL HABIS.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL,
la
a
between Ports mentioned below. 1885. AUSTRIAN LLOYD.
Tn BEVK(nr. To ALEXAXnitlA. To POKT-SAIU. To SALOMCA.
Everj- second Friday from Jan. 6U
at noon, via Alexandria. Arriva Every second Saturday
iruui Dec. 31 at noon, via
Second Monday at 4.30 A.M.
Every Friday at rwon, Syra and Piraeus.
Every second Saturday from Jan. Every Friday at noon. via Alexandria. Arrival following
UU noon,i'ia .Syra and Snivrna Arrival foUowiiif; Arrival Saturday at 8.30 A.M.
Arrival 8ei:'d Wednesday, 5 A.M Thursday at 6 A..M. second Saturday
at 5 A.M. Every second Thursday
Every second Friday from Dec. 30 from Dcc.4» at 4 ¥.M.
at noon,tJ<a Alexandria. Arrival
Arrival second
second Tuesday at 9.30 A.M. Saturday at 8.30 A.M.
Every second Tuesday from Every second Tuesday from Every second Tuesday from
Jan.lOtli at 8 P.M., ria Syra
Jan. 3dat8 P.M., tiiu Syra Jan. lOth at 8 P.M., via Syra
and Smyrna. Arrival fol- and Smyrna. Arrival sec-
and Smyrna. Arrival following Every second Thursday
lowing Tuesday at 7.30 A.M. ond Friday at 8.45 A.M.
Wednesday at 5 A.M. from Jan. 5th at 10 A.M.
Arrival
Every second Tuesday from Jan. Every »»'"ond Tuesday from Everj second Tuesday from following Saturday
Jun". 10th at 8 P..M., via J:in. 3d at » P.M.,tia Syra
3d at 8 P.M., via Syra, Smyrna, Syra, Smyrna, and Syria.
at 8.30 A.M.
and Alexandria. Arrival Smyrna, and Alexandria.
Arrival following Sunday Arrival second Saturday
second Monday at 4.30 A.M.
at 6 A.M. at 5 A.M.
95
Peiiiiisiilar il Orieital Stei Nairtetioii Co.
TXCORPOBATED BY ROYAL CHARTER 1S40.
UNDER CONTRACT WITH HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.
INDIA, CHINA, AND AUSTRALIAN MAIL PACKETS
Weeklj- from London (Royal Albert Docks), with Passengers and Specie, to the Mediterranean,
Egj'pt, Aden, and Bombay.
Weekly from Venice and Brindisi to Alexandria, Aden, and Bombay.
Fortnightly from Loudon (Royal Albert Docks), with Pa.ssengers and Specie, to Ceylon, Ma-
dras, Calcutta, "straits. Chiua. Japan, Australia, and New Zealand.
id Id 2d
For INDIA and tEYLO>— Class. aass.
\st
Class. aass.
^st
Class. Class.
To Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, Available for 3 months from departure )
j j£80 i85 j£50 £90 £55
and Ceylon, and back i ( to arrival on return f
Do." Do I
Do. for 6 months
Do. Do I Do. for 12 months
1 to arrival on return
^
)
For AISTBALIA—
To Kintr George's Sound, Glen- ( Available for 9 months from departure ]
Return Tickets to the Mediterranean, available for Three Months, are also issued.
LONDON" to MALTA and back £22 lOs. LONDON to GIBRALTAR and back
i £|5.
Special Circular Tickets, giving varjing routes and combinations, are also issued, to meet the taste* and requirements
of Tourists and others visiting the East.
96
IMPERIAL GERMAN MAIL.
HAMBURG-AMERICAN PACKET COMPANY.
DIRECT MAIL SERYICE, BY MEANS OF THE COMPANIES MAG-
NIFICENT CLYDE-BUILT IRON MAIL STEAMERS:
FRISIA, HOLSATIA, BORUSSIA, SILESIA, HAMMONIA,
BAVARIA, ALBIXGIA, SAXOXIA, ALLEMAXXIA, RUGIA,
HUXGARIA, SUEVIA, THURIXGIA, TEUTUXIA, RHAETIA,
MORAVIA, GELLERT, LESSIXG, RHEXAXIA, BOHEMIA.
WESTPHALIA, WIELAXD, CYCLOP,
HAMBURG—NEW YORK.
From HAMBURa, every WEDNESDAY and SUNDAY Morning.
Prom HAVRE, every TUESDAY Afternoon.
Erom NEW YORK, every THURSDAY and SATURDAY Noon.
p^ On the trip to Europe, the steamers leaving New York on Thursdays
touch Plymoutli and Cherbourg, tlius fornaing a direct line to England and France.
Through Tickets are issued from Hamburg and Havre to San Francisco, Japan,
China, Honolulu, N^ew Zealand, and Australia, via Erie Railway and connecting
roads, Pacific Railroad, and Pacific Mail Steamship Company.
HAMBURO—IVEST INDIES.
THREE SAILIXGS EVERY MOMH.
From Hamburg on the 6th, 21st, and 24th ;
Panama to all ports of the Pacific and via San Francisco to China and Japan.
;
HAMBtRG—GULF OF MEXICO.
JfOXTflLY SAILIXGS.
From HAMBURG on the 2d, from HAVRE on the 5th, to Vera Cruz, Tampico,
and Progreso.
AG^EISTCIES.
H.\\f BURG AUGUST BOI,TEN.
LONDON, PLYMOUTH, AND SOUTHAMPTON SMITH. SUNDIT-S. & CO.
HAVRE AND PARIS URO.^TROM Jt CO.
CHERHOURG A. RONFILS \- FILS.
NEW YORK KUNHARDT .^ CO.
NEW YORK PASSENGER AGENCY C. B RICHARD & BO.\S.
COLON (ASPINWALL) AND PANAMA FfRTH & CAMPBELL.
ST. THOMAS Capt. F. BECKER, Slpkiuntkkdbht.
97
^VV^HITE ST^R LIN^E.
The well-known magnificent Steamers of this Line sail every Thursday from
From PASSAU to LINZ daily 3 P.M. From LINZ to PASSAU.. .daily at 6 1<^ a.m.
" LINZ " VIENNA " 1}4 A.M. " VIENNA " LINZ " " 6^ A.M.
" VIEN^^A " PESTH " 7 A.M. " PESTH "VIENNA... " "6 p.m.
FOR LIVERPOOL,
From Pier New 38, North River, New York,
EVERY TLESDAY.
WYOMING S'Zie Tons. I WISCONSIN 3720 Tons.
NEVADA 3125 " I ALASKA 6500 "
ARIZONA 5300 Tons.
^^° These Steamers are built of iron, in water-tight compartments, and are
furnished with every requisite to make the passage across the Atlantic both safe
and agreeable — having Bath -Room, Smoking -Room, Drawing- Room, Piano, and
Library, also experienced Surgeon, Stewardess, and Caterer on each Steamer.
From LIVERPOOL
(Calling at
to
QUEENSTOWN
NEW YORK every Wednesday
the dav following), and
The New Steamer "AMERICA" ^'H be running in the Season 18.S4. She is
expected to rival the very fastest Atlantic Steamer in speed, and her Saloon is unique in style
and magnificence, and in the completeness of its arrangements for the comfort of passengers.
The " EGYPT'S " Saloon has been altered, enlarged, and re-decorated, and her speed increased
through being re-boilered and completely overhauled.
The S.A.LOOXS in the other Steamers are unusually spacious, and are particularly well lighted
and ventilated. The State Rooms, all on the Main beck (in some of the steamers opening oflf
the saloons), are exceptionally large, light, and airy. Pianos. Ladies" Saloons both on deck and
below, Gentlemen's Smoking-Room, and Ladies' and Gentlemen's Bath-Rooms are provided.
Apply in Paris at the American Exchange. 35 Boulevard des Capucines in London, at the ;
Company's "\iVe.st End Offices and Reading-Rooms, .57 Charing Cross; in Berlin, to Charles
Messing, Potsdamer Bahnhof; in Belfast, to Henry Go wan, Victoria Street; in Queenstown, to
N. & J. CciiMiNs & Brothers; and to
CABIlSr FA.RES.
From Bremen to Baltimore AOO Marks. |
From Baltimore to Bremen $90 Gold.
The Leading Hotel of America. ^Containiiif,' ovor 4nO Romn? Xiwlv aii^l I'lccaiiilv Furn'Shed
UKSTAUllAXT, CAFK, AND SALOAS, J Hi; FIXKST IN THK ^VOHLl).
ROOMS $2.00 A DAY AND UPWARDS. Q. H. R EAD & CO., Proprietors.
THROUGH B1L.L.S OF li A DING, for freight and baggage, issued from IVFW
^OKK parts of
to all EUROPK, INDIA, AUSTRALIA, CHINA, CUBA,
AFRICA, &c., &c.
Agents in all the principal cities of the world.
iKg= Baggage sent from EU180PE, addressed to us here, will be immediately cared f««
fcud stored, toawait arrival of owners.
All further information on application at 34 BroadA\'ay, New
York, U.S. A*
B j«L S L E.
HARPEK'S PERIODICALS.
Per Year
HAEPERS MAGAZINE $4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 4 00
HARPER'S BAZAR 4 00
HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Number each week for One Year 10 00
Postage Free to all Subscribers in tJw United States or Caruida.
AND
COTTAGES
106
BROWN BROTHERS & CO.,
59 Wall Street, New York,
Available in any part of the World in Dollars, for Use in this and Adjacent
;
You have my sincere thanks for sending me a copy of your history of the Com-
mune of Paris. I liave read it witli great pleasure. ' You have grouped together
and
tlie fiu'ts given your narrative all the interest of a romance. In after-years the
perusiil of it will liriiii:- to our minds the wonderful events which you and I wit-
nessed, and which tilled the civilized world with horror.
Believe me, inv dear Mr. Fetridge,
Very ^incerely and iruly yours, E. B. WASHBURNE.
W. Pembroke Fetiiidge, Esq., Paris.
BEING A
By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE,
Author of "Harper's Hand-Book," "Rise and Fall of the Paris Commune in 1S71," &c.
With Concise and Explicit Boles for the Pronunciation of the different Langoagei.
By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE,
AUTHOR OF "harper's HAND-BOOKS," "THE RISE AND FALL OF THE PARIS COMMUNE,"
"harper's PHRASE-BOOK," ETC., ETC.
maps, plans, and diagrams of countries and routes, rendering the Guides
most complete.
New York World. —Not only have these well-known and long-established
guide-books * * *
New York Journal of Commerce. —Nobody can get along over there without
a first-rate guide-book. Harper & Brothers have been supplying the
want for many years.
New York Observer. —We have made constant use of it, not only as a guide-
book, but as a book of reference. We have found it the most satisfac-
tory of all our guide-books.
Tlie —
North American. No other hand-book at once so trustworthy and so
comprehensive is before the public.
Boston Post. — Altogether the work is one that no traveller in Europe can
afford to dispense with.
Boston Advertiser. —
The most complete and comprehensive guide-book for
travellers on the Eastern Continent that is published.
Boston Transcript. —European travellers accord the highest and best words
of praise to these books, both for accuracy and completeness.
—
Boston Herald. No American should think of travelling in Europe without
taking these along with him.
Boston Courier. — Too well known in former editions to need extensive
notice.
B3r~ For a full List of Books suitable for Libraries published by IlAErEP. & Buotu-
EE8, see Hauper's Catalogue, ichich may be had gratuitously on application to
the publishers personally, or by letter enclosing Ten Cents in postage stamps.
tW Haeper & Brotueus will send their publications by viail, postage prepaid, on
receipt of the price.
GIBBON'S ROME. The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman
Empire. By Edwakd Gibbon. With Notes by Dean Milman, M. Gui-
zoT, and Dr. William Smith. New Edition, from New Electrotype
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JAN 1 ^ ?m!
GRANDE MAISON DE BLANC,
PARIS— 6 Boulevard des Capucines— PARIS,
MANUFACTURERS AXD VENDORS OF
A^incLow Cuirtains.
TAR MANUFACTORY AT ARE.
The GRANDE MAISON DE BLANC, founded bnt a few years ago, is withont doubt the
most useful commercial affair that has been created iu Paris. The multiplicity of articles
which this vast establishment contains renders a Catalogue necessary even to persons who
have for a long time honored the house with their confidence.
After the Exposition of London, which recognized the superiority of its articles to those
of other nations, it was necessary for the French industry to centre iu one hand the fabrica-
tion of the nation, and thus to increase its value. Uniting the products of the first manu-
factories, and manufacturing itself, the Gkanpe Maison becomes the direct and true repre-
sentative of French fabrication. It brings into immediate contact the manufacturer and the
buyer,and solves the great problem— sti2ypression of agents— which maiKy have endeavored
lo accomplish without success. This house alone cculd succeed by the relations of its
nauagers and the importance of its business connection.
The establishment of the Gbanpe Maison was therefore a useful work to every body.
Every one will find an unaccustomed cheapness in its articles, and become acquainted with
the fact that they sell cheaj) to sell a great deal.
All articles are sold at a fixed price, which is the same for Paris, the pro\'inces, or foreign
countries. For such as Underclothing, Trousseaux, or House-Linen, manufac-
all articles
tories have been established whose organization is such as to guarantee the perfect execu-
tion of orders. To facilitate business with the provinces and foreign countries, the Grande
Maison has established a special ofllce for the expedition of articles.
In a word, every thing possible is done to retain the title of ^^
House of Confidence," of
which the Grande Maison has' thus fi\r rendered itself worthy.
5^ •>'
4: •
;lie
:^rTiNii;:>«rT^r. hotel,
TiiilericN, entrance at No. 3 Rue Casti^Iioiie,
{GEST, MOST ELEciANT, AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL
r. 600 Salons {xnd Bt'd-Kooins, from 4 frs. to 25 fnn, per day. Peiisi
^akfast at 5 frs., wiiu' and coffee included. Separate tables if desi^