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International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015 1

Review
Puff pastry and trends in fat reduction: an update

Kanchana S. Wickramarachchi,1 Mike J. Sissons2* & Stanley P. Cauvain3,4


1 FOODplus Research Centre, Waite Research Institute, University of Adelaide, Glen Osmond, SA 5064, Australia
2 NSW Department of Primary Industries, Tamworth Agricultural Institute, 4 Marsden Park Road, Calala, NSW 2340, Australia
3 Bake Tran, 1 Oakland Close, Freeland, Witney, OX 29, 8AK, UK
4 International Institute of Agri-Food Security, Curtin Business School, Curtin University, Perth, WA 6845, Australia
(Received 4 September 2014; Accepted in revised form 15 December 2014)

Summary Pu pastry is a popular nonleavened pastry product with unique textural properties. Pu pastry is pro-
cessed from laminated dough, comprising alternating and discrete layers of dough and fat. Pu pastry
quality can vary substantially depending on the raw material quality and production processes. The high
fat content of commercial pu pastry usually containing signicant amounts of saturated and trans fats,
which are known to be associated with potential health risks, has led to increased demand for lower fat
baked products. This review discusses the pu pastry production process and factors aecting pu pastry
quality together with strategies to reduce total fat content and improving the fat composition in pu
pastries.
Keywords Laminated dough, pu pastry, reduced-fat pu pastry, saturated fat, trans fat.

cholesterol, which is a major risk factor for cardiovas-


Introduction
cular disease. Furthermore, trans fats are worse than
Pu pastry is a nonyeasted, distinctly layered pastry saturated fats and are associated with increased risks
with a aky texture, which is featured in a wide range of a number of diseases, including coronary heart dis-
of products such as pie tops, sausage rolls, cream ease, cancer, diabetes, allergy and poor foetal develop-
horns and vol-au-vent cases. Pu pastry is a laminated ment (Stender & Dyerberg, 2004; Wijesundera et al.,
bakery product made from a paste consisting of many 2007). Producing foods with low saturated fat and free
thin layers of dough separated (laminated) by alternate of trans fats has become a global health objective
fat layers. Pu pastry is produced in dierent scale (Wassell & Young, 2007). Increased consumer concern
bakeries using semi-automated in small to medium over the quantity and quality of fat in pastry products
scale, or fully automated in large scale mass pu pas- has increased pressure on the bakery industry to pro-
try production lines (Bent, 1997). Pu pastry making duce low-fat baked products with a more desirable fat
is a complicated process that involves widely varying composition (Wassell & Young, 2007).
production practices and the making of pu pastry Croissant and Danish pastries are also manufac-
still remains an art. tured from laminated pastes although in these prod-
As the production process depends on the quantity ucts yeast is added to the dough and a fermentation
of fat, bakers typically use a fat content varying from period (proong) is used to increase the product vol-
50% to 100% on our basis in the recipes and the n- ume before baking (Bent, 2007). While there are rec-
ished pu pastry can contain 30% or more fat on a ipe, processing and leavening mechanisms between
weight basis (Simovic et al., 2009), and hence, it is pu pastry, croissant and Danish pastry, many of the
considered to be a high fat food. In addition, most of considerations which might be applied to reduce fat
the fats used commercially may contain up to 50% levels in pu pastry will equally apply to croissant and
saturated fat and 2530% trans fat (Simovic et al., Danish pastry.
2009) which are considered by health agencies to be In 1975, McGill summarised the basic production
the least desirable fat types. Numerous clinical studies processes used in pu pastry in his review article which
have demonstrated that excess consumption of satu- has not been updated. The present review aims to pro-
rated fat is positively correlated with elevated blood vide a summary of the pu pastry production process
and a comprehensive overview of the factors aecting
*Correspondent: Email: mike.sissons@dpi.nsw.gov.au pu pastry quality, together with methods to reduce

doi:10.1111/ijfs.12754
2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology
2 Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al.

the fat content and reduce the level of saturated and baking quality. The low-temperature retardation is
trans fat in pu pastry. more critical when butter instead of commercial pu
pastry margarine is used as pu pastry fat. An over-
night retardation of paste at ~48 C is sometimes
Puff pastry production process and
applied before the nal sheeting step. The automated
physicochemical changes
(continuous) production methods were summarised by
Harte (2003) and Haarsgaard (1980).
Dough and paste formulations
A basic pu pastry formula contains our, salt, water
Physicochemical changes that occur during the
and fat (Hay, 1993). Croissant and Danish pastry reci-
manufacture of puff pastry
pes include yeast, sugar, eggs and other enriching
agents (Bent, 2007). The fat used in laminated prod- During the mixing of our with water, the proteins are
ucts has numerous terms such as laminating fat, roll- developed into a continuous gluten matrix that binds
in fat or layering fat. Some formulae optionally use starch granules, and subsequent processing ensures the
soft dough fats such as butter and margarine up to required balance between cohesion, elasticity and
10% on our basis to improve handling properties or extensibility of the dough. During baking, moisture in
eating quality (Cauvain, 2001). Hereafter, the word the paste turns to steam which cannot easily escape
dough used in the review refers to the mixture of due to the impervious fat layers. The build-up of
ingredients (our, water, salt) before incorporating the steam pressure forces the dough layers to separate
laminating fat, and the word paste refers to the mix- from each other generating the lift of the pastry. In
ture of dough and laminating fat before baking and croissant and Danish pastes, the eect of steam pres-
the term pastry to the nal baked product. sure is supplemented by the release of carbon dioxide
from yeast fermentation. The laminating fat is melted
and absorbed by the dough giving it a soft texture and
Dough mixing and laminating
resistance to moisture gain which helps retain a crisp-
In classical pu pastry production, our, water and ness when wet llings are used in the pu pastry. The
salt are mixed to obtain the base dough and the full gluten network formed throughout the pastry primar-
development of the gluten structure is initially avoided ily determines whether the pastry is crumbly and tough
as gluten development continues in the successive or tender and akey (Andrews & Harte, 2003). This is
sheeting steps. After mixing the dough is allowed to an oversimplied explanation which overlooks the
rest before being extruded into a dough sheet. The complex physical and chemical transformations occur-
laminating fat is extruded into a separate sheet which ring in pastry baking (Kazier & Dyer, 1995).
is then placed onto the formed dough sheet. The latter
is then folded to enclose the laminating fat and the
Puff pastry fats
process of building up the separate fat layers sand-
wiched between dough layers commences. There are
Level of fat in the formulation
three commonly used methods that pastry cooks use
for incorporating laminating fat into dough: English, Based on the laminating fat content used in the recipe,
French and Scotch methods for which the details are bakers express pu pastry as full-pastry three-quar-
provided elsewhere (McGill, 1975; Bent, 1997; Harte, ter pastry or half-pastry expressing the quantity of
2003). laminating fat relative to the our weight (Cauvain,
In subsequent processing, the paste obtained is 2001). For example, the above-mentioned three dier-
continuously sheeted and folded in a process com- ent kinds of pastry have fat contents of 100%, 75%
monly called laminating or layering the pastry and 50% on our weight basis, respectively. Neverthe-
(Patient, 1994). The purpose of folding is to form less, a continuous range of recipes is possible using
continuous alternate and ideally discrete layers of fat any per cent of laminating fat content in the range of
and dough. This is important to obtain the necessary 50100% (McGill, 1975). The choice of level of fat to
lift and subsequent delicately layered baked pastry. be used in pu pastry production by manufacturers
The laminating is achieved by dierent folding meth- depends on criteria expected in the nal product such
ods, traditionally referred to as threefold turn (half as lift, eating quality and avour (Cauvain & Young,
turn), fourfold turn (bookfold) and singlefold turn 2008).
(McGill, 1975).
Between folding and sheeting steps, the paste is
Characteristics and types of puff pastry fats
allowed to rest. This relaxation/retardation of paste is
preferably done at ~48 C to prevent temperature Several researchers have described key performance
elevations in the paste and subsequent reduction in characteristics of pu pastry fats: rmness (consistency),

International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015 2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology
Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al. 3

plasticity (optimal solid fat content) and melting proper- high temperatures, facilitate the plasticity and good
ties (Tamstorf et al., 1986; Kazier & Dyer, 1995; Cau- workability required of fat during lamination and opti-
vain, 2001; Wassell & Young, 2007; Pajin et al., 2011; mum expansion during baking. However, they often
Lefebure et al., 2013). The fat should be rm enough to result in palate cling due to the fact that their melting
withstand the dough folding operation and to form con- temperatures are above human body temperature.
tinuous undamaged thin layers of fat under a high Pu pastry margarines are designed specically for
degree of sheer applied during the sheeting. At the same pastry production and result in less palate cling. Pu
time, it should be plastic enough to be workable and pastry margarines are water-in-oil emulsions contain-
evenly spreadable, and owable under pressure. The fat ing around 80% triglycerides, and their high content
crystals have to be able to separate and move past one of solid fat allows melting over a wide temperature
another in an oil phase during sheeting. The melting range. These margarines provide the high workability
properties of the fat determine the crystalline solid fat of high melting fats, but they have relatively lower
content and the size of the crystals, which in turn inu- melting points compared with shortenings (Kazier &
ence the rmness and functionality of the fat (Cauvain, Dyer, 1995). Pu pastry margarines have saturated fat
2001). Generally, these rheological characteristics of (solid at room temperature) content of ~50%. The
pu pastry fat are achieved by the high melting point of main saturated fatty acid is palmitic acid (C16:0) with
saturated fats in the fat blend. However, melting points lesser amounts of stearic acid (C18:0), tetradecanoic
should be low enough at the same time to avoid a pal- acid (C14:0) and dodecanoic acid (C12:0). The unsatu-
ate cling (unpleasant waxy after taste) caused by rated fatty acids (liquid at room temperature) contain
unmelted solid fat in mouth (Tamstorf et al., 1986). mainly oleic acid (C18:1), and lesser amounts of lino-
According to Cauvain (2001), fats that melt slowly leic acid (C18:2), and a-linoleic acid (C18:3) (Pajin
between 15 and 20 C, but rapidly between 25 and et al., 2011).
45 C, allow palate cling to be reduced without sacric- Traditionally, the most widely used technique to
ing plasticity. produce solid fat from liquid oils has been partial
A few studies have reported the optimum melting hydrogenation; a catalytic hydrogenation of double
property requirement for a pu pastry fat. Doerry (as bonds in unsaturated fatty acid chains of oils. Indus-
cited in Pajin et al., 2011) indicated that a solid fat trial hydrogenation of vegetable oils involves three
content of 16% at 40 C and the requirement for phases (gassolidliquid) carried out in a batch auto-
gradual changes of this content at temperatures clave with a nickel-based catalyst (0.010.15%) at
between 50 and 92 C to be optimum. Similarly, a 110190 C, 3070 psi H2 pressure. This process also
solid fat content of 3845% at 20 C reported to give allows the formation of trans isomers of unsaturated
the maximum-specic height of pu pastry (Cauvain, fatty acids. These trans isomers show dierent physio-
2001). logical properties and metabolic functions to their nat-
The main types of laminating fat used for pu pas- ural cis counterparts (de Cindio & Lupi, 2011). They
try making are butter, shortenings and margarines. provide the favourable melting behaviour, textural
Butter was traditionally the main fat used, but in properties and oxidative stability to the fat. Due to the
many cases, it has been replaced by other fats, due concern over health eects of trans fats in food, there
mainly to its high cost and low-processing tempera- is an increasing pressure to remove the term hydroge-
tures which may be required (Pajin et al., 2011). For nated fat from the food labels (Wassell & Young,
example, butter has a low solid fat index at 20 C and 2007).
pu pastry sheets made with butter need to be pro-
cessed at temperature around 1214 C (Cauvain &
Factors affecting the quality of puff pastry
Young, 2001). Nevertheless, butter is still being used
today, especially for rich types of pu pastry because Although it is dicult to give a clear interpretation of
of its exceptional avour prole (Gassenmeier & Schi- what is meant by the quality of pu pastry, some of
eberle, 1994; Kazier & Dyer, 1995). Rnholt et al. the quality criteria that make pu pastry acceptable to
(2014) attempted to develop a pu pastry butter consumers have been identied and adopted (Table 1).
using a scraped heat exchanger and changed the man- Pu pastry quality can vary substantially depending
ufacturing conditions with the objective of reducing on the quality of the raw materials and variations in
structural breakdown of butter during working. the production process (McGill, 1975; Hay, 1993; Cau-
Shortenings composed of 100% fat produced from vain, 2001). Indeed, changes in either of these factors
vegetable oil or blends of vegetable and animal fats may result in a sudden decline in quality and hence
are widely used in pastry making (Kazier & Dyer, economic losses, especially in large scale production.
1995), although there has been a move away from the The following section will discuss a few of these fac-
use of animal fats. The melting proles of these short- tors considering their relevant importance. This knowl-
enings, combined with a considerable solid content at edge is vital in fat reduction as optimisation of these

2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015
4
Table 1 Objective and subjective parameters used in the evaluation of pu pastry quality

Quality
parameters Details Remarks Reference
Pastry lift is the measurement of the height of the pastry
Objective parameters
pastry lift (mm)
Pastry lift/ Specific lift Specific lift provides a better Gerrard
paste weight before baking (g)
Specific lift method to compare pastry et al.(2000), Hay
produced using different final (1993), McGill
paste thicknesses/weight than (1975), Simovic
the lift. et al. (2009) and
It is also an indicator of other Sliwinski et al.
parameters such as pastry (2004)
firmness, shrinkage and volume
Development Development pastry lift (mm) Commonly used parameter by Cavillot
height of the paste weight before baking (mm)
the bakers. Bakers expectations et al.(2009) and
Pastry volume is the measurement of volume of the of the development of puff McGill (1975)
pastry is 58.
pastry volume of the pastry (cm3
Pastry Specific volume Rape seed displacement method Hay (1993) and
paste weight before baking (g)

International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015


Volume/ or laser-based scanners can be Simovic
Specific used for volume measurement. et al.(2009)
volume
Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al.

Lift Lift irregularity = maximum pastry height (mm)  minimum pastry height (mm) Measures the aesthetic quality of Telloke (1991)
irregularity pastry. The higher the
unevenness of the lift the higher
the irregularity value.
(maximum top diameter of the pastry ring) - (minimum top diameter of the pastry ring)
Eccentricity Eccentricity  100 Higher values of eccentricity Telloke (1991)
(minimum top diameter of the pastry ring)
reflects more deformation of a
perfect circular shape for pastry
rings.
Shrinkage Shrinkage (surface area of the pastry top)(surface area of the pastry cutter)  100 Measures product contraction Telloke (1991)
(surface area of the pastry cutter)
during baking and aesthetic
quality of pastry. There is a
direct relationship between
pastry height and shrinkage.
Higher shrinkage values mean
higher product deformation.
Pastry from stronger flours has
more pastry deformation.
Instrumental Different compression tests can be used to evaluate the firmness, defined as maximum resistance to force. Telloke (1991) found the firmness Simovic et al.
firmness Ex: a blade or probe attached to the texture analyser forcing through pastry to obtain maximum shear measurements agree with panel (2009) and
load assessment of pastry tenderness Telloke (1991)
(r2 = 0.96).
Structure Image analysis is used to analyse the image of pastry cross-sections for different parameters such as cell Novel method. Salmon (2005) Salmon (2005)
size and cell wall thickness analysed the air cell distribution
in a pastry cross-section and
attempted to relate to subjective
quality.

2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology


Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al. 5

factors may compensate for the quality loss caused by

Baardseth et al.
Simovic et al.
fat reduction.

Pimdit et al.
(2008) and
Reference

(2009)

(1995)
Flour quality
Bakers commonly use our protein content as the pri-
mary criterion for selecting the type of our to be used
for pu pastry (Hay, 1993) although this diers
Trained panellists are needed between countries. For example, a protein content of
1214.5% is specied for Europe while 810% is opti-
mal in New Zealand. It is generally accepted that
strong ours give increased lift (Taylor, 1985) and
weak ours have low lift which could be due to
destruction of the layers early in lamination, resulting
Remarks

in poor gas retention and low pastry lift. Many


researchers found that the rheological quality of the
gluten protein during baking and processing is of
greater importance than the protein content of the
our.
Hay (1993), using eighteen dierent wheat ours,
reported pastry-specic height was strongly inuenced
by water absorption and rheological properties of the
dough particularly extensigraph tension energy. The
study revealed the quantity of high molecular weight
glutenin subunits was strongly correlated with extensi-
bility (r = 0.85). Extensibility is desirable to enable the
paste to withstand sheeting and avoid rupturing of the
laminates and tearing of the dough sheets. Addition-
Crust colour (yellowness), colour uniformity, surface glossiness, puffiness

ally, it was observed that the bread baking quality of


Crispness, flakiness, flakiness uniformity, pore size, pore wall thickness

our does not provide a good indication of pastry


baking quality of the same our.
Sliwinski et al. (2004) using eight wheat cultivars
found that pu pastry baking quality depended on a
few stress-related dough properties such as strain hard-
ening (r = 0.95). A high strain hardening co-ecient
helps to prevent premature rupture of dough lms to
Palate cling, saltiness, tooth pack, mouth dryness

ensure uniformly thin dough layers and increased the


pastry lift. They also found no signicant correlation
(r = 0.32) between pastry volume and gluten content
of the our. There was a positive correlation between
pastry volume and optimum mixing time required for
bread production (r = 0.84).
Ludewig (1978) as cited by Telloke (1991) proposed
an optimum Extensigraph dough resistance of 300500
Brabender Units. However, the validity of using the
Margarine, wheat

methods developed for assessing bread baking quality


of our for determining the pastry baking quality is
questionable as pastry dough is quite dierent to bread
dough in composition and rheological changes during
Details

Subjective parameters

sheeting (Telloke, 1991; Morgenstern et al., 1996).


Table 1 (Continued)

Therefore, it is important to develop methods that are


more applicable to measure the baking quality of our
appearance

After taste

for pu pastry. Telloke (1991) measured dough defor-


parameters

Structure
External

Flavour

mation resistance of a dough sheet; the force required


Quality

for the standard deformation of a dough sheet


obtained after a standardised sheeting procedure. This

2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015
6 Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al.

was measured using a texture analyser with spherical


Resting of dough and paste
probe to deform the tightly held dough sheet.
The dough and the laminated pastes are commonly
given dierent resting periods for stress relaxation.
Dough water content
Inadequate relaxation can cause undesirable shrinkage
Achieving optimum dough consistency and reduced and tearing of the dough during lamination (Morgen-
dough stickiness is crucial in pu pastry production stern et al., 1996; Bousquieres et al., 2014). The tough-
(Sliwinski et al., 2004). The amount of water used ness and resistance to stretching of wheat dough
depends on the our water absorption, the amount reduces with time after mixing, reecting a gradual
of dough fat and the paste making process (McGill, change in the gluten structure with a gradual reduction
1975). It is generally believed that a higher water in elasticity. During relaxation, the dough attains an
level in paste produces higher pastry lift. However, optimum rheological state, but this occurs at dierent
Telloke (1991) found that pastry-specic height and rates for ours of varying strengths and relaxation
shrinkage were hardly aected when dough water times. Cauvain (2002) found that doughs made of
content was increased from 52.5% to 62.5% (our weak our need little or no relaxation, while doughs
weight) while keeping the our to pastry margarine of stronger our need longer relaxation periods.
ratio constant. Whereas Sliwinski et al. (2004)
reported increased dough water content from opti-
Baking temperature
mum reduced pastry-specic height. Dierences in
wheat cultivars used and the increased water level Pu pastry should be baked in a hot oven to ensure
might have increased dough stickiness causing amal- fast steam generation which expands the pastry during
gamation of dough layers and reducing the expansion the initial stage of baking. The baking temperature
of them in latter work. varies according to the type of pu pastry (McGill,
1975). For example, products with lling need a tem-
perature between 216 and 221 C, while plain unlled
Fat content
pastry needs 227238 C. Lower temperatures are gen-
An increase in the laminating fat content increases the erally used for a convection oven to counteract prema-
specic lift of the baked pu pastry (Telloke, 1991). ture crust solidication and low pastry lift caused by
This is probably due to the thicker fat layers pro- heat ux in a convection oven (Telloke, 1991). The
duced by the high fat content and minimal sticking baking process can be optimised by increasing the bak-
together of dough layers during lamination. Further, ing temperature during the early stage of baking when
it can provide a greater impervious barrier to the pastry expansion occurs then reducing the temperature
escape of steam in the early stage of baking. Reducing for drying the pastry without burning (Telloke, 1991).
the laminating fat content below 50% without making
other recipe or process changes will inevitably result
Refrigerated and frozen storage of finished paste
in the reduction of pastry lift and other eating quali-
ties (Kazier & Dyer, 1995) unless other steps are In common practice, preprepared pu paste pastes are
taken to preserve the characteristic structure. Never- kept refrigerated. Refrigerating at temperatures below
theless, frozen pu pastry paste sheets having laminat- 5 C provides superior protection against quality dete-
ing fat content below 50% on our basis are available rioration with higher pastry lift than storage at 10
in the market. 15 C (Leung et al., 1984; Cauvain, 2002). Dark spot
formation is another form of quality deterioration
occurring during prolonged cold storage (Cauvain &
Degree of lamination
Young, 2008) which is attributed to the enzyme-
Degree of lamination can be expressed as the number assisted oxidation of polyphenols in the small bran
of theoretical fat layers in the nal paste, which is particles. This discoloration can be reduced by addi-
calculated from the initial number of fat layers and tion of ascorbic and citric acid to the dough (Cauvain,
number of folds given subsequently (Cauvain, 2002). 2001) although this may aect pastry shrinkage.
The optimum level of lamination varies with the Frozen pu pastry paste sheets and bulk slabs are
amount of laminating fat used in the recipe (Cauvain, becoming increasingly popular in the market by con-
2001). The optimum degree of lamination shifts sumers and retail outlets. These frozen products are
depends on the fat content. For example, 128 fat lay- stable having a shelf life of 612 months due to their
ers were found to be optimum with half paste (50% high fat content. However, Gerrard et al. (2000)
of fat of our weight) and 256 fat layers gave best reported an 18.5% loss of pu pastry lift during frozen
quality pastry with a full paste (100% of fat of our storage at 20 C over 3 months possibly due to dis-
weight). ruption of the gluten network by ice crystals and loss

International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015 2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology
Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al. 7

of dough strength (Inoue et al., 1994). Nevertheless, products can be less eective in obtaining akiness
Gerrard et al. (2000) did not investigate the eect of because of their hydrophilic properties (Kazier &
frozen storage on rheological properties of paste. Dyer, 1995).
There have been a few scientic attempts to improve Lipid-based fat replacers are fat analogues that can-
low-temperature storage stability and prolong the stor- not be metabolised by digestive enzymes and are there-
age period of pu pastry dough. Leung et al. (1984) fore lower in calories. However, there is public
showed that reducing the water activity of pu pastry concern over the gastrointestinal safety of fat replacers
paste from 0.98 to 0.90 by including sorbitol in the despite the rigorous safety evaluation programmes
recipe improved the storability at 5 C. Gerrard et al. they undergo for approval as a food additive. This is
(2000) showed that adding microbial transglutaminase, because of potential adverse eect of unabsorbed fat
(an oxidising our improver) at 5000 ppm (based on on digestion and absorption of nutrients and gastroin-
dry our weight), improved pastry lift and could sus- testinal lymphatic tissues and bile acids (Munro, 1990).
tain it through frozen storage at -20 C for up to Pimdit et al. (2008) used carbohydrate (maltodextrin
3 months. This might be due to the oxidation of cyste- gel and powdered cellulose), protein (whey protein
ine residues of gluten protein by microbial transgluta- 80%) and lipid (Salatrim)-based fat replacers to
minase facilitating disulphide bonds and cross-linking, develop a pu pastry having a fat content of 12.88
hence strengthening the protein matrix against the del- 15.86%. Salatrim, the acronym for short and long
eterious eects of frozen storage. chain acyl triglyceride molecule, is a reduced-calorie
fat substitute. Although the dierent fat replacers did
not aect pastry-specic volume, their sensory appear-
Storage of baked pastry
ance (crust colour, glossiness, colour uniformity, sur-
Pu pastries have a limited shelf life of around 7 days face burning and puness) and texture (crispness,
because of their hygroscopic nature and they become rmness) were generally found to be signicantly lower
tough and chewy in the staling process as they absorb than that of regular-fat pu pastry and Salatrim gave
moisture from the surroundings (Ke & Brown, 1985). an unpleasant rubber odour. However, regular-fat pas-
This problem is aggravated in pastries with moist ll- try gave more oily and margarine avour and waxy
ings, as the lling moisture migrates to the pastry shell after taste than the reduced-fat counterpart which
(Van Der Graaf & Verhoef, 1995). In their patent, Ke might be perceived as undesirable by health conscious
& Brown (1985) claimed a modied pu pastry prod- customers.
uct with longer shelf life and less sogginess compared (2) Reducing the amount of laminating media can
with conventional pu pastries. Wheat our was par- reduce lift directly but can be used for products that
tially substituted with dextrin (preferably 2025%). do not require a high degree of akiness. However, if
Less sogginess was observed in the modied pu pas- a reduction in laminating fat level is combined with
try than the conventional pu pastry. changes in laminating procedures (i.e. reducing num-
ber of fat layers), then lower levels of fat in the nal
product can be achieved.
Opportunities for reducing total fat, saturated
(3) Reducing the amount of fat in the laminating
and trans fat content in puff pastry
media has been achieved for reduced-fat Danish pastry
and croissants by developing special laminating media
Reduced-fat pastry
claimed to have only 50% fat and 44% water and
There are several approaches available for reducing functional ingredients (apparently emulsiers and
the fat in laminated products: (1) replacing the lami- thickening agents) in its composition (Kazier & Dyer,
nating fat (2) reducing the amount of laminating 1995). However the study did not investigate the eect
media (3) reducing the fat content of the laminating of fat reduction on the objective and subjective quality
media and (4) using emulsiers. attributes of these pastries.
(1) Replacing the laminating fat is simply replacing (4) Emulsiers are a form of fat replacer and are
part of the laminating fat with a fat replacer. These fat commonly referred to by the baking industry as fat ex-
replacers are either based on carbohydrate, protein or tenders. Pu pastry margarines are often incorporated
lipid or a mixture of them. Before selecting a fat repla- with emulsiers such as lecithins (Bueschelberger,
cer, it is important to understand the role fat plays in 2004), mono- and diglycerides (Moonen & Bas, 2004)
the food and select fat replacer(s) based on this. For and polyglycerol esters (Norn, 2004). Emulsiers play
pu pastry, the most important characteristic of a fat a signicant role in the structure and plasticity of the
replacer should be its ability to form hydrophobic margarines which facilitate pastry making. An emulsi-
impervious layers. This suggests suitability of lipid- er stabilises the margarine (oilwater emulsion) and
based fat replacers over the other categories. Carbohy- aids in dispersion of the small fat crystals in baked
drate-based fat replacers widely used in other bakery products. There is evidence (S.P. Cauvain, personal

2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015
8 Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al.

communications) to show that small and uniformly investigated producing margarines with improved
dispersed fat crystals can improve the functionality of composition based on liquid oils such as olive oil
pu pastry margarines when overall fat levels are using phospholipid stabilisers and mixing with hard
reduced. Pu pastry recipes generally do not include fat fractions such as cottonseed stearin, palm and
emulsiers. However, ionic emulsiers such as canola stearin and intermediate melting point trigly-
DATEM (diacetyl tartaric acid ester of mono- and di- cerides such as interesteried fat, cocoa butter and/
glycerides) and SSL (sodium stearoyl-2-lactylate) at 1 or fractionated fat with melting point of 3040 C
2% of our weight were found to increase pastry lift (de Cindio & Lupi, 2011).
and tenderness (Cauvain, 2001). Interestingly, it was
observed that at reduced levels of laminating fat,
Novel fat blends low in trans fat
responses to DATEM addition were more pro-
nounced. The increased lift of pastry by these anionic Low trans fat margarine targeted for pu pastry pro-
emulsiers was attributed to decreased dough pH, duction has appeared in the European market (Pajin
which was associated with an increase in paste resis- et al., 2011). A high percentage of palm stearin (80
tance to deformation. Nonetheless, the eect of emul- 90%) is used in the production of a typical low trans
siers on pastry tenderness was not pH dependent. margarine to obtain the required functionality (Wassell
Cauvain (2001) observed that the nonionic emulsier & Young, 2007), but these are high in saturated fat.
glycerol mono stearate did not aect pastry lift, but Pajin et al. (2011) compared low trans fat (<1%), med-
produced a more tender pastry. Simovic et al. (2009) ium trans fat (5.4%) and high trans fat (23.8%) mar-
used an ionic emulsier, DATEM in pu pastry for- garines for their physico-chemical properties. The trans
mulation using low trans fat margarine apparently to fat content of the low and medium trans margarines
overcome the reduction in the pu pastry lift, due to had a higher saturated fat content (5052%) compared
the use of trans fat-free pu pastry margarine. with conventional pu pastry margarines (~30%). Fur-
thermore, they found the ratio of cis polyunsaturated
fatty acid to saturated fatty acid for these novel mar-
Production of margarines with lower levels of trans and
garines was lower than the 0.50 which is the recom-
saturated fat
mended optimum level by the World Health
As discussed earlier in this review, fats conventionally Organization. This emphasised that the trans fat con-
used in pu pastry production are high in saturated tent alone is not adequate in assessing the nutritional
and trans fat and replacing them presents a challenge quality of low trans fat formulations.
because of their functional role in pastry making. Reg- Simovic et al. (2009) reported the success of pro-
ulating the commercial hydrogenation process to ducing pu pastry with satisfactory quality using two
obtain low trans fat content is one option. For exam- dierent commercial low trans margarines at a fat
ple, increasing the pressure, and agitation or decreas- content of 35% for one and 55% for the other. How-
ing the temperature or using precious metal catalyst ever, they did not compare the baking performance
such as Pd, Rh, Pt and Ru in the hydrogenation pro- with those of commercial high trans margarines.
cess helps to produce less trans fats (Singh et al., 2009; Moreover, the satisfactory lift they obtained may have
de Cindio & Lupi, 2011). been due to the higher paste thickness (10 mm) used
An alternative process that does not produce trans than the thickness used in regular practice (~4 mm).
fat is interesterication between fully hydrogenated fat The two dierent margarines diered in their rmness
and trans free natural vegetable oil. The interesterica- despite having similar fatty acid composition which in
tion process catalysed by enzyme (preferably) or chem- turn resulted in dierent optimum fat levels to be
icals involves exchange of fatty acids between used. They speculated that the rmness dierences of
participating glycerol molecules and rearrangement of the margarines were due to the diering distribution
molecules (Lee et al., 2008). Saturated fatty acid of fatty acids in the triglycerides. A similar study
chains in fully hydrogenated fats can be replaced with comparing trans free margarine with trans fat ones
unsaturated chains of triglycerol naturally present in found dierent physical properties such as texture and
vegetable oil. The new altered triglycerol molecules plasticity, and this inuenced baking performance
give desired physicochemical properties to the restruc- (Cavillot et al., 2009).
tured fat. Skogerson et al. (2010) demonstrated that high
Palm stearin, a solid fraction of palm oil, is diglyceride emulsiers facilitated the formulation of
known to promote desirable plastic fats economically trans free pu pastry margarines from nonhydrogenat-
when it is interesteried with vegetable oils (Wassell ed liquid vegetable oils in their patent which claims
& Young, 2007). Another option is adding hard fats that nonhydrogenated vegetable oil-based margarine
to the liquid oil phase with suitable emulsiers and for pu pastry containing an elevated diglyceride
stabilising agents to obtain blends. Previous studies emulsier (Skogerson et al., 2010). The emulsiers in

International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015 2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology
Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al. 9

the claim have a higher content of diglycerides (prefer-


Implication of fat reduction and modification of fat
ably 7080%) (Skogerson et al., 2010). The novel pu
composition on puff pastry
pastry margarine is prepared by admixing the high
diglyceride emulsiers (1016% on w/w basis), nonhy- As already stated above, production of pu pastry
drogenated vegetable oil (5565%) and saturated fat with reduced fat, which still possess suitable function-
(1325%). They used a blend of rened palm oil and ality that the fat provides, posses a great technical
soybean oil as the nonhydrogenated oil base. Nutri- challenge for food technologists and bakers. Reduced-
tional analysis of the margarine revealed that the sum fat pu pastry lacks pastry lift, akiness, crispness and
of saturated fat plus trans fat for these novel marga- has higher dryness and hence rmer eating qualities
rines was lower than that of commercial low trans than regular pu pastry (Sharp, 2001). A moist lling
margarines. The new margarines gave comparable pu often used with pu pastry can increase the sogginess
pastry lift to that of standard commercial products of the reduced-fat pastry because with less fat the
with partially hydrogenated fat. moisture barrier properties of the pastry crust are
reduced. Reduced fat paste can impose handling di-
culties for the bakers as it can be rmer, tougher and/
Novel fat blends high in unsaturated fat
or sticker than full-fat paste. Although the reduced
The expertise on using fat sources with unsaturated level of fat facilitate less waxy after taste, which is con-
fat in pastry is limited compared with that of satu- sidered desirable, it can aect the avour and aroma
rated fat (de Cindio & Lupi, 2011). There are few chemistry undesirably.
reports on developing pu pastry margarine from fat Reducing saturated fat and trans fat in pu pastry
blends with high unsaturated fat content. Gabriele margarine reduces the plasticity of the margarine. The
et al. (2008) attempted to develop an olive oil-based low-melting unsaturated fat of these margarines can
emulsion having similar properties to the industrial melt and absorb into the dough quickly due to dough
pu pastry fats, targeting frozen pu pastry produc- warm up during sheeting. As a result, adjacent layers
tion. The emulsion was formulated using olive oil, can stick together and the layering eect will be lost.
emulsier and hydrophilic thickener agents (our Melting of soft fat into oil can be exaggerated in crois-
based). The large dierences in rheological properties sants and Danish pastry which are proofed at higher
observed between the novel formulation and commer- temperatures (~35 C) prior to baking. Moreover, the
cial margarine indicated the need for further improve- low saturated margarines will melt rapidly during early
ment of novel fat. baking without facilitating the lift. This leads to loss
Palm stearin, obtained through fractionation of of lift and akiness. The fat blends low in saturation
palm oil, can be used to substitute the hydrogenated (~30%) generally produce rmer dough and pastry
oils, rich in trans fatty acids (Aini & Miskandar, compared with butter (Garcia-Macias et al., 2011).
2007). Garcia-Macias et al. (2011) formulated dierent However, the eect of these novel fat blends on a-
fat blends using palm fractions (palm stearin, palm vour and aroma and overall sensory quality has not
mid fraction and interesteried palm mid fraction) in been studied.
combination with sunower oil. These blends had low There is considerable evidence on the eect of the
saturated fatty acid content (29.2  0.85%), less than triglyceride composition on avour development, a-
that of butter (50%) while having higher solid fat con- vour release and aroma delivery of dierent foods,
tent than butter. The functionality of these blends as but this information is lacking in bakery products.
pu pastry fat was investigated in a warm processing Baardseth et al. (1995) using eleven dierent laminat-
environment (2024 C). The specic volumes of the ing fats made of milk fat or vegetable oil for Danish
pastry from these novel blends were signicantly lower pastry production found the type of shortening inu-
than that of butter despite the fact that the latter was enced the taste, odour and colour using principle
used above its optimum processing temperature (typi- component analysis. On the other hand laminating fat
cally <20 C). They found a blend having palm stea- content in the formulae inuenced the texture and col-
rin: palm mid fraction: high oleic sunower oil of our. To our knowledge, no studies have been reported
13:19:68 gave pastry with similar instrumental texture in the eect of fat reduction in bakery products on
(compressibility) to that of pastry from butter while avour.
the other blends tested gave hard pastry. de Cindio &
Lupi (2011) proposed two potential colloidal interac-
Conclusion
tions that might be related to producing novel fats
blends: droplet attractive interaction (small water Saturated fat and trans fat reduction in pu pastry
droplets dispersed in nematic liquid crystals) and for- and other pastry products has become a pressing issue.
mation of interpenetrating polymer network (Poulin A better understanding of the role of fat in the struc-
et al., 1997; de Cindio & Lupi, 2011). ture, avour and colour development of pastry as well

2015 Institute of Food Science and Technology International Journal of Food Science and Technology 2015
10 Update of puff pastry and fat reduction K. S. Wickramarachchi et al.

as the interactive role of fat and other ingredients is component analysis. Lebensmittel-Wissenschaft & Technologie-Food
needed. With the increased interest to develop low-fat Science and Technology, 28, 7277.
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Bousquieres, J., Deligny, C., Riaublanc, A. & Lucas, T. (2014).
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Cauvain, S.P. (2001). The Production of Laminated Bakery Products
use of whole grain ours. However, the presence of (Review No. 25). Gloucestershire, UK: Campden & Chorleywood
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Gabriele, D., Migliori, M., Lupi, F.R. & de Cindio, B. (2008). Olive
production process. In this context, laminated prod- oil based emulsions in frozen pu pastry production. Proceedings
ucts are no dierent than almost all other baked prod- of AIP (American Institute of Physics) Conference, 1027, 1262
ucts in that a better understanding of the contribution 1264.
of dough production and processing will make signi- Garcia-Macias, P., Gordon, M.H., Frazier, R.A., Smith, K. & Gam-
cant contributions to achieving new developments. As belli, L. (2011). Performance of palm-based fat blends with a low
saturated fat content in pu pastry. European Journal of Lipid Sci-
yet, no signicant attention has been paid in existing ence and Technology, 113, 14741480.
studies on reduced-fat laminated products to the key Gassenmeier, K. & Schieberle, P. (1994). Comparison of important
role that processing may play. odorants in pu-pastries prepared with butter or margarine. LWT-
Food Science and Technology, 27, 282288.
Gerrard, J.A., Newberry, M.P., Ross, M., Wilson, A.J., Fayle, S.E.
Acknowledgments & Kavale, S. (2000). Pastry lift and croissant volume as aected by
microbial transglutaminase. Journal of Food Science, 65, 312314.
The authors are indebted to the University of Adelaide Haarsgaard, E.E. (1980). Automatic production of pu pastry. Bak-
for the nancial support provided for a research pro- ers Digest, 54, 1619.
ject on the eect of novel wheat blends on pu pastry Harte, J.B. (2003). Pastry products/types and production. In: Ency-
clopaedia of Food Science and Nutrition. (edited by B. Caballero, L.
quality and for a postgraduate scholarship. The Trugo & P. Finglas). Pp. 44074412 Amsterdam: Academic Press.
authors are also grateful to Dr. Colin Jenner and Hay, R.L. (1993). Eect of our quality characteristics on pu pas-
Dr. Beverly S. Muhlhausler for reading the draft. Fur- try baking performance. Cereal Chemistry, 70, 392396.
ther, we would like to acknowledge Mr. Fee Lee and Inoue, Y., Sapirstein, H.D., Takayanagi, S. & Bushuk, W. (1994).
Studies on frozen doughs- III. Some factors involved in dough
Mr. Brian Lavery (Bakery Studies, TAFE, SA) for weakening during frozen storage and thaw-freeze cycles. Cereal
supplementing the practical knowledge on pu pastry Chemistry, 71, 118121.
production. Kazier, H. & Dyer, B. (1995). Reduced-fat pastry margarine for lam-
inated dough in pu, danish and croissant applications. Cereal
Foods World, 40, 363365.
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