INSTRUCTION

MANUAL
THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL PROVIDES GUIDELINES FOR
INSTALLATION, ERECTION, OPERATION & MAINTENANCE OF SIMPLEX
CANE MUD VACCUM FILTER

IN ORDER TO OFFER PROMPT SERVICE PLEASE QUOTE OUR JOB NO

WHILE WRITING TO US REGARDING THIS EQUIPMENT.

CLIENT: DHARANI SUGARS & CHEMICALS LIMITED, UNIT-III

ORDER NO: 2500000548 DATED 25.04.2008

EQUIPMENT: SIMPLEX CANE MUD VACCUM FILTER 10X 20

SIMPLEX ENGINEERS AND TRADERS

H.O. & WORKS: 10/4, GURDWARA ROAD, MEERUT 250 001 (U.P.)
PH. NO. 3290576,2422436,2422087 FAX: 91-121-4002087
EMAIL: nishchint@simplexindia.biz

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HIGHLY QUALIFIED TECHNOLOGISTS RESEARCH
RELENTLESSLY EVOLVING NEW WAYS IN WHICH
TO INCREASES FUNCTIONAL EFFICIENCY OF
SIMPLEX CAN MUD FILTER. THIS MAY INVOLVE A
MINOR CHANGE IN ITS DESIGN, IF DEEMED
INDISPENSIBLE.

2
 (A)
OPERATING & MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIMPLEX CANE MUD FILTER.

Page
A. LIST OF CONTENTS A
B. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 4
1. General Remarks 4
2. Method of packing 4
3. Instructions for unpacking 4
C. GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND ASSEMBLING OF THE FILTER 4
4. Filter description and Assembling 4
5. Drum Drive 7
6. Automatic Filter Valve 7
7. Stationery cover Cleaning Shower 7
8. Drip Pipes and Wash Distributors 8
9. Vacuum Receiver & Float 9
D. OPERATING HINTS 10
10. If the operators gets the system full of dust 10
11. If the operator gets the Filter Tank full of Pasty Feed 10
12. If the cane brings in an excessive amount of Sand 11
13. Cleaning Nozzles and Spray Pipes 11
14. If a Section of Filter Screen cracks badly 12
15. If hard scale of Mud accumulates under perforated Screen 12
16. Operating suggestions for Simplex filter 12
E. INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR 13
17. Replacing wormgear and worm 13
18. Installing Replacement Drum piping 14
19. Replacing perforated Metal Cover 15
20. Repairing Perforated Metal Screens 18
21. Refacing SIMPLEX Automatic Filter Valve 19
22. Removal of Agitator 20
F. LUBRICATION.
23. Lubricants required 21

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 (B)
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

First read Bulletin

1. Before unpacking this equipment read all these instructions carefully. They explain
how the units should be arranged with relation to each other and how the parts of each
should be assembled.

2. METHOD OF PACKING

Each SIMPLEX Filter is completely assembled in our shop before shipment.

3. INSTRUCTION FOR UNPACKING

Carefully check the material received against the factory packing lists forwarded with
shipping papers. Make sure that the entire shipment has been received and that all
parts are in good conditions. In case of loss or damage call your local freight agent,
have loss or damage noted and enter claim at once.

Exercise special care when unpacking the filter, because the filter drum is covered
with finely perforated metal filter medium, which may easily be dented or cut. Do not
remove that part of the packing which protects the drum surface until the filter has
been placed in its permanent location in the factory, and all overhead scaffolding, etc.,
removed from the building so that men working on scaffolding above the filter do not
drop tools, bolts or nuts on the drum. Mechanics should not be allowed to stand on the
drum under any circumstances.

(C) GENERAL DESCRIPTION

4. FILTER

After the filter has been put in proper place. The balance parts should be assembled in
the following manner:

Spray & Drip Pipes. The spray pipes and drip pipes should be thoroughly cleaned out
by drawing a round wire brush through them. Rubber rings are furnished to prevent
water form running along the drip pipes and dripping beyond the drum surface. These
rings should be put on the drip pipes before the pipes are placed in their hangers. The
piping and valves which connect the hot water supply line to these pipes then should
be thoroughly cleaned. This piping should be attached to the end frame on the opposite
end of the filter from the drive.

All screwed fittings, excepting the plugs or caps at the ends of the pipes, should be
red-leaded but particular care should be taken not to use an excess of red lead. Any
surplus squeezed into the inside of the fitting will later finds its way into the spray

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nozzles and choke them up. Plugs or caps, which will have to be removed when it is
desired to flush out the pipes, should be graphited.

The hot water supply should next be connected to the assembled piping. It should be
capable of delivering 0.12 gallons of hot water per square foot of filter area per minute
at 40 pounds per square inch pressure, and should be at a temperature of 800C.

The strainers are provided for each filter installation. They should be installed in the
hot water line.

The individual valves controlling the flow of water to the spray and drip pipes should
then be closed and the piping tested out for leaks. When all of the joints have been
made tight, the spray pipes should be screwed tightly into their respective supply lines
and adjusted so that the nozzles will point toward the centre of the drum.

The drip pipes should be adjusted so that the small holes point vertically upward. The
notched drip sheets should be clamped to the pipes so the sheets have a slope of about
450 with the horizontal. The drip pipe hangers should then be so adjusted that the tips
of the drip points come about 1 radially form the filter drum. The hose connections
should next be made to the drip pipes. The caps or washout plugs should then be
removed form the far ends of the spray and drip pipes and each pipe should be flushed
out with water.

The spray nozzles should next be taken apart, thoroughly cleaned and then one
installed in each hole in the spray pipes. If a nozzle does not work properly, first tap it
with a light tool because sometimes the spindle within the nozzle gets caught and a
light tap will free it. If this does not correct the trouble, remove the nozzle and clean it.

The drip pipes should be leveled from end to end and dried out. The combined area of
all the holes in the drip pipe is so small that it actually requires only a slight pressure
in the pipes to force the water out though the holes. If the holes are larger, then the
water would flow freely through some and not at all through others.

The water falling on the drip sheets should then run down the sheets and drip off
uniformly from the points. If the water tends to gather in small streams on the drip
sheets and flow down some points and not others, it is because the drip sheet is too
smooth and do not become wetted by the water. To correct this, roughen the surface of
the drip sheet with fine emery paper.

A wooden plank, long enough to reach from one end of the filter to the other, should
be placed over the filter drum in order to provide something for the operator to stand
on when it is necessary to clean the small holes in the drip pipes. This plank should be
secured to the top channel irons of the two side frames. It should, of course, be strong
enough to support a man at its central point, and should be so fastened that it cannot
slip out of place.

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Cake discharger. Fit the counterweight arms to cake discharger (scrapper). Place
counterweight on arms and adjust their position till edge of discharger bears lightly on
the drum face. If the discharger doest not bear evenly along the entire drum face do not
try to jam it down. Align it as well as possible by shimming under the hinges; if this
does not suffice it will be necessary to wear the discharger in by revolving the drum
dry for a few hours. Add extra weights to give the required pressure on the discharger.
Do not use excessive weights.

Feed connection. Filtered feed enters the tank through a vertical connection located
below the cake discharger. A baffle plate is welded on the agitator directly over the
feed inlet to disperse the incoming feed and prevent it form affection cake formation
on the drum. A 6 line from the feed mixer delivers the feed to this connection on the
filter tank. Providing means for draining the feed line to the overflow tank when the
filter is shut down or when necessary to remove sand from the feed pipe.

Overflow connection. On each end of the tank, toward the discharge side, are
overflow boxes with flanged pipe connections and internal lips. Either one or both of
these connections can be used as overflows. The filter should be fed so as to maintain
a continuous overflow to the overflow tank.

Overflow piping. It should be sloped downward about 150 to the overflow tank. From
the overflow tank the overflow is pumped back to the feed mixer.

Drain connections are on the bottom center line of the filter tank one near each end of
filter and one near the drive end of the shorter filters. One drain connection should be
fitted with a drain valve to permit dumping the contents of the filter tank into the
overflow tank. This drain line can be jointed with the feed overflow line. It is a good
idea to pipe the second drain connection to the sewer instead of the overflow tank so
that the filter tank can be emptied of sand which may accumulate under certain
conditions.

A steam heating device is attached to the cover plate of the hand hole in the drive end
of the filter tank. This is intended mainly for heating the water in the filter tank when
cleaning the filter screen by hot water plus the use of the cover cleaning shower.

It is also useful when commencing filtration, because everything must be hot at the
start of operation. The nozzle of the steam heater should point towards the rising
(agitator) side of the tank so the slurry will not splash into the overflow.

Filters 12 or more in length are practically two shorter filters built end to end in one
tank. They have two entirely separate internal piping system, each with its own
automatic value. On these filters it is possible to start one half of the drum before the
other. This is sometimes desirable when the tank is filled with too thick a slurry. See
instruction page 10 para 11 (b).

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5. DRUM DRIVE

The filter is equipped with a variable VFD-speed-reducer and this variable drive allows
the filter to be speeded up or slowed down, as required, in order to confirm with variation
in settings.

6. AUTOMATIC FILTER VALVE

The valve consists of two main parts; a wear plate or valve seat, which is to be bolted to
pipe plate on the end of the filter trunnion, and the valve which fits against the wear
plate and is prevented from rotating by a valve adjusting rod connected to the filter drive
housing or filter tank.

Carefully clean the face of pipe plate attached to filter trunnion, also the rear face of wear
plate. Be sure to completely remove all paint or other foreign matter from both. With the
hands carefully rub a very thin coat of red or white lead over the face of pipe plate, using a
circular motion, making sure to remove all lumps. Bolt the wear plate to the pipe plate,
tightening opposite bolts uniformly a little at a time so as not to wrap the face of the wear
plate.

Valve Adjusting Rod At the drive end of filter, install the valve adjusting rod pivot in
the hole in lower part of filter drive worm housing on the side remote from discharge
scrapper. Screw a locknut on threaded end of valve adjusting rod and pass the rod end
through the pivot. Screw another locknut on the rod below the pivot. Connect upper end of
rod to lug on side of valve using the pin and cotter pin provided. The normal operating
position of valve is with the lug on horizontal center line on rising side of drum. Set the
locknuts on adjusting rod to keep the valve in this position unless otherwise required.
Then tighten set screw that secures the adjusting rod pivot.

Connect vacuum hoses to the valve in accordance with assembly drawings furnished. Pipe
connections from filtrate receivers should terminate exactly in line with hose connections
form the valve. The piping must be supported independently of the valve so that no strain
is placed on the valve when hoses and pipes are connected together. This is important to
ensure good seating of valve on the wear-plate.

Filter will have a filter valve on the rear end also. Fit this valve similarly, fastening the
adjusting rod end on the bracket of the filter tank. When using two valves one is R.H. and
the other is L.H. be sure to get the correct hand on the end.

7. STATIONARY COVER CLEANING SHOWER

This stationary shower supersedes the traveling shower formerly used for keeping the
space in back of the perforated covers from filling up with a hard deposit that would
eventually blind the filter surface. The advantage of this shower over the previous one is a
great saving of time in performing the operation. The traveling shower only treated a strip
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about 3 wide for each revolution of the drum and for a filter of wide face took several
hours. The stationery shower covers the entire length of the drum and does the job in one
or two revolutions.

The stationary shower is a 2 pipe tapped for pipes on 2 centers and fitted with
Denco nozzles. The pipe is located just above the horizontal drum centerline on the
rising side. It is enclosed in the galvanized hood that houses the atomizer pipes for cake
washing.

The nozzles are arranged to clear the face of the drum about 2 and are adjustable as the
effective location may vary with different pressures. 1 form nozzles to drum has
proven satisfactory with 70 psi. water pressure.

Connect the stationary shower pipe to a 2 hot water line or larger if the run is long. Use
water with 80 to 100# pressure and as hot as available. One application of the cleaning
shower per day for a few revolutions of the drum will keep the covers from blinding.

To operate the shower, discharge all cake from the drum. Turn on the atomizers and drip
pipes, but shut off the vacuum to the drum. Turn on the hot water and run the filter for one
or two revolutions. It is desirable to operate shower for 20 minutes per day.

Use the shower at regular intervals- at least once a day to keep the solids from beginning
to accumulate in back of the perforated plates. Its use is so convenient that there is no
hardship to use oftener than once a day. If necessary, to keep the filter clean.

If the solids are not effectively removed daily from the back of the perforated plates they
will harden and if left long enough will become so hard that the shower cannot remove
them. If this should occur, place a strong hot solution of caustic soda in the tank so that the
drum dips in it several inches. Rotate the drum with vacuum shut off in the hot solution
until the scale is softened sufficiently to be removed by the shower. By using the shower
frequently end with sufficient pressure. This condition should never arise.

We formerly recommended the use of steam in the stationary shower, but field experience
indicates that hot water does a better scrubbing job.

8. DRIP PIPES AND WASH DISTRIBUTORS

The wash system consists of two headers of spray nozzles followed by five drip pipes. For
more efficient cake washing these instructions should be carefully followed.

Each drip pipe has a row of #53 holes (.059 dia.) drilled at 1 centers. A saw toothed G.I
distributor plate is suspended at a 450 angle under each pipe. The pipe should be turned so
that the jets discharges almost vertically upward. The water will then fall on the distributor
plate and drip from each tooth onto the drum.

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Each pipe is fitted with an adjusting device consisting of a hexagonal eccentric fulcrum
and a U-bolt. By tightening the U-bolt nut the slag can be taken out of the pipe. By turning
the eccentric fulcrum, either end of the pipe can be raised or lowered slightly. The pipes
should be carefully leveled so that distribution of the water will be even.

The top surface of each distributor has been roughened at the factory so as to given even
distribution of the water. If due of oiliness, the water does not spread evenly. It will be
well to etch the surface with hydrochloric acid and roughen with sand paper. Be sure to
clean all acid from the plate with water when finished.

Each distribution of wash water is of great importance, and should be given proper
attention.

The amount of wash water required on any particular installation will vary with the type of
mud being handled. Therefore, no definite figure can be given. In general the spray
nozzles are usually run on full line pressure (40#) and the pressure on the drip pipes is
regulated to suit each pipe.

9. VACUUM RECEIVER FLOATHEAD AND FLOAT

The float head prevents filtrate form flowing into the vacuum line when abnormal
conditions exist. When the filter is operating the normal position of the float head safety
valve is open, allowing free passage of air form receiver to vacuum pump. The relief valve
is closed, being seated over relief ports on top of the float head body, preventing outside
air from entering the receiver of vacuum main.

In case of failure of the filtrate pump or building up of filtrate in the receiver form any
other cause, the float becomes partially submerged, allowing spring to open relief valve
and close the safety valve. This shuts off the receiver form the vacuum pump and the relief
valve opens the vacuum pump to the atmosphere, causing a hissing noise. The reduced
vacuum in the receiver enables the filtrate pump to take hold and empty the receiver,
thus restoring normal conditions.

If the float does not allow the spring to close the safety valve when the liquor rises in the
receiver, air from the filter is drawn through the filtrate and the turbulence will cause
vibration. Shut down the filter, examine the filtrate pump and put it in order. See whether
there is any other cause for filtrate accumulating.

Be sure that valve stem slides freely and is not bent. Also that valves are seating properly.

Adjust the spring without vacuum or liquid in the receiver. Screw down the spring
adjusting nut until the relief valve just leaves its seat. Then back off the adjusting nut until
the relief valve seats again firmly. Partially fill receiver with water and test action of float
head thoroughly.

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 (D) OPERATING HINTS

The following troubles may occur if the operator is not on his guard:

10. IF THE OPERATOR ACCIDENTALLY GETS THE SYSTEM FULL OF FEED

TOO LOW IN BAGACILLO

This is will happen if the operator does not notice the bagacillo supply stop when the
mill is stopped. The emergency storage supply is arranged for use at such times.
Before long its operator finds the filter tank full of slimy feed, the drum covered with a
thin slimy cake that wont discharge, the feed tank full, or rising rapidly. To remedy
this there are several things that may be done.

a. IN ALL CASES STOP DRAWING OF SETTLINGS UNTIL THINGS ARE

RIGHTED.

b. If the overflow tank is full, start adding bagacillo again at the mixer, and scrap off
the slimy cake with a wooden paddle. This can be done by slowing the filter down
and walking across the front with the paddle against the screen. If the filter is
going slowly all slimy can be taken off in the 3 or 4 revolutions.

c. If there is room in the overflow tank, drain the filter tank into it and shut off the
valves in vacuum lines to automatic valve, but leave the sprays on. Start bagacillo
again and filter tank will start filling with feed that is correct or nearly so. The
drum will be washing off while the filter tank is refilling. Clean slimy spots with
the paddle.

11. IF THE OPERATOR ACCIDENTALLY GETS THE FILTER TANK FULL OF

PASTY FEED

This trouble usually arises as follows: There is a long filter stop during which time the
flow from the Clarifier has been shut off and the feed in the system has been accumulating
bagacillo due to failure to stop the blower or sifter. To remedy this do the following:

a. ALWAYS STOP THE BAGACILLO SUPPLY.

b. If there is room in the overflow tank, dump the filter tank contents into it and pump up
another tank of feed. Try starting the filter at high speed. If filter has automatic valves
at each end, shut off vacuum lines to one end, and try picking up cake on only half of
the drum. You may get a cake 1 thick, but if it comes up and over you are getting
clear, start the settings to mixer again and as soon as the cake this down a bit, start the
other end of the filter. As soon as the cake is approaching normal, start feeding
bagacillo into the mixer.

c. If b fails and the cake is so heavy that if falls off or does not pick up at all, drain half
the feed in the filter tank into the overflow tank, shut off the overflow return pump,
10
 shut off the filter valves and dilute the filter tank contents with hot water. Let the
agitator mix it for a few minutes, and try starting at high speed and with one end only
if filter has two valves. If you get the cake to hold start the overflow return pump and
add water at the mixer with the hose. Start drawing off settlings again and as soon as
the cake starts thinning down start the other end of the filter. When approaching
normal, start bagacillo into mixer again and stop adding water.

12. IF THE CANE BRINGS IN AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF SAND

a. The sand collects in the filter tank feed line (6 pipe from mixer) and in the filtrate
tank. If the agitator ever starts jerking, or the mixer box off-take pipe plugs, sending
feed out on the floor, look for sand. To do this, stop the over-flow return pump, stop
settlings to the mixer and drain the filter tank. There will be a thick layer of sand in the
bottom.

b. Hose the sand out to the sewer and not into the overflow tank.

c. Start up as usual but do not let the sand to accumulate, until it causes trouble. Shut
down the filter and inspect after 3-4 hours and decide how often to clean out. On
subsequent cleanouts, particularly all of sugar can be saved. Drain the filter tank and
displace sugar liquor in the feed pipe by running hot water in form the mixer end.
Then hose out sand to sewer.

13. CLEANING NOZZLES AND SPRAY PIPES

The operator should always keep a small clean bucket at the station. When removing a
drip pipe plug, or a nozzle cap, the water left in the pipe will pour out. Operator should
hold this small bucket to catch the pipe plug or the nozzle cap and spindle, to avoid
scalding himself or dropping the parts into the filter tank.

In cleaning nozzles, remove the dirt from the small clean bucket at the station. When
removing a drip pipe plug or a nozzle cap, the water left in the pipe will pour out.
Operator should hold this small bucket to catch the pipe plug or the nozzle cap and
spindle, to avoid scalding himself or dropping the parts into the filter tank.

In cleaning nozzles, remove the dirt from the small hole in the side of the spindle or
from the cap orifice. Screw up again lightly.

In cleaning drip pipes run the brush in the pipe, give a turn and withdraw. Replace the
plug lightly and start the pipe again.

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14. IF A SECTION OF FILTER SCREEN CRACKS BADLY

If there is a danger of the section catching on the scrapper and it cannot be quickly
soldered to hold until shut down, tear it off but dont remove the lock strips. Plug the pipe
holes with corks and cut corks off to clear the scrapper after they are tight. Operate with
this section dead.

15. IF HARD SCALE OR MUD ACCUMULATES UNDER PERFORATED

COVER

a. If scale or mud accumulates in the section under the perforated screen and becomes
too hard to be removed with the steam shower, the drum with vacuum shut off, should
be revolved in a strong hot solution of caustic soda to soften the deposits. They can
then be removed by the steam shower.

16. OPERATING SUGGESTIONS FOR SIMPLEX FILTER

Attention to the following items will improve filter operation:

a. Use the finest bagacillo that can be obtained in sufficient quantity.

b. Add enough bagacillo to make a porous cake but not more than necessary.

c. Keep the filter feed fluid; do not let it get too thick.

d. Use all the wash that evaporator capacity will permit.

e. Watch the distribution of the wash water. Even distribution is as important as quantity
to obtain thorough washing.

f. Maintain a small overflow from the filter tank at all times to insure tank always being
full. Excessive amount of overflow is undesirable.

g. Keep the filter clean; wash it down frequently. Good house-keeping pays.

h. Use shower frequently to prevent accumulation of scale under the perforated covers. If
shower fails to remove scale see item 15 above.

i. Always keep the drip operating, especially on the descending side of the drum,
whenever the shower is being used.

j. Keep the filter and auxiliaries well lubricated and avoid needless wear and expense.

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(E) INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR

17. REPLACING WORMGEAR & WORM

To, replace the wormgear, remove the cover plate. Take out capscrews and remove the
two flanged worm shaft bushings. Then lower the worm shaft to permit the worm gear to
be pulled off from the trunnion. Clean and oil trunnion surface and then remove
wormgear. To install wormgear, clean the bore of the worm gear and surface of the
trunnion over which it must slide. Oil these surfaces and insert key in trunnion keyway.

Slide the wormgear on trunnion and drive it on until it bears against the outer face of
trunnion bearing. When operating, the wormgear hub thrusts against the face of the
trunnion bearing. Tighten set screw over the keyway and the additional set screws.

Slip the worm and the two thrust collars on the worm shaft. The worm is keyed to the
shaft with two keys. Be sure the keys are in place, then centralize the worm and thrust
collars on the shaft in relation to the keys. Lock them in place with set screws on the
collars. Slip the thrust washer over the shaft, making sure it is on the correct end to take
the worm thrust. The top of the worm shaft turns towards the filter and the direction of the
end thrust is determined accordingly. In some hosed bearing the thrust washer is omitted
and the worm thrust is taken directly against the polished face of the thrust COLLAR.

Install the worm shaft bushing with their gaskets and oil seals. Lubrication holes are
drilled through these bushings. There are two holes on one side and a single hole on the
opposite side. Make sure the bushings are installed with the two holes down. This permits
proper drainage of excess oil. Both bushings are identical. The driven end of the worm
shaft extends out through one bushing which is fitted with an oil seal. At the other end of
the shaft the bushing is blanked off with a blind cap and gasket. When the worm shaft
extends through the housing for driving accessory/accessory apparatus, an additional oil
seal is supplied.

Insert two capscrews in each bushing flange diagonally opposite each other, leaving them
loose enough to permit moving the shaft assembly. With a lever under the worm or by
using the two lower setscrews, force the worm shaft assembly up until the worm is in full
mesh with the worm gear. This will centralize it. With lever pressure still on, tighten the
bushing capscrews lightly.

Tap the top of each building flange with a hammer, forcing the worm evenly out of mesh
until it has a small amount of backlash. Put a C clamp on the worm shaft to facilitate
turning it by hand. Rotate it and ease any binding by tapping the bushing flanges with a
hammer in the direction required. Insert remaining capscrews and tighten all of them.

Worm shaft bearing are supported by set screws extending through the bottom and front of
oil well. Screw them up against the bushing and lock with the nuts provided. Rotate the

13
worm shaft back and forth occasionally to check for any binding of the shaft. After this,
secure the bolts by means of a copper wire and a lead seal.

18. REPLACEMENT OF FILTRATE PIPES INSIDE OF THE DRUM CYLINDER

1. All the filtrate pipes inside the filter drum can be easily replaced, as special screwed
fittings have been used at all connections. The sockets for connecting the filtrate pipes
and the cylinder of the drum have been soldered in place.

2. All pipes in the trunnion have been rolled tight into the bores of the pipe plate, bolted
to the trunnion.

3. In order to remove the pipes inside the filter drum only, the connections by the
junction boxes have to be loosened.

4. In case also the pipes in the trunnion have to be replaced, it will be necessary to make
use of a drill suitable in size to cut out the pipes of the pipe plate. Care should be taken
that the holes in the pipe plate will not be enlarged.

The replacement of pipes has to be as follows:

a. Filter drums with 2 (two) valves do have two separate fitted pipe systems. In each
system there are 2 pipes closed to the drum head, which easily can be removed and
access to the inside of the drum is possible.

b. Each filter cell has been equipped with a separate filtrate pipe with a number of
connections to the filter shell.

c. Each filtrate pipe, belonging to a filter cell and which needs to be replaced, can be
taken out carefully.

d. The dismantled pipe will be used as template to cut and shape the replacement
accordingly. Care should be taken that the ends of the pipes are being cut with right
angles.

e. After inspection that all damaged pipes have been replaced, the filtrate pipe can be re-
erected into the drum.

5. The pipes to be replaced into the pipe plate of the trunnion will have to be rolled in,
making use of a suitable pipe roll.

6. After all pipes have been replaced they have to be tested by pressure water of 2-3 atu.
Care must be taken that all pipes have been filled up with water. Before testing, the
pipe ends have to be closed by a plug. In case, leakages on joints are noted the junction
shall have to be soldered. In case the leakage has been found at the pipe plate, this has
to be stopped by the pipe roller.
14
19. REPLACING PERFORATED METAL COVERS

a. The work is done by three or four men. Three men are required to get the cover
started, but only two men are required for calking. So if four men work together they
work in pairs on the calking. Work on the descending or discharge side of the drum:-
Erect a solid platform over the cake hopper or conveyor. The support arms of the
traveling shower make a convenient support for the platform. Rotate the drum until the
section to be recovered is at a convenient working height above the platform (about
chest high).

b. Remove the worn out of portion damaged cover. Thoroughly clean the ribbed backing
plate and the grooves in the division strips. Be sure to brush all dust, dirt or any scale
out of the dovetailed grooves in the division strips. It is to extreme importance to see
that there is no deposit or incrustation in the dovetail grooves. It is advisable to make a
cleaning tool of a power hacksaw blade or other thin hard steel, ground to get into the
dovetail grooves. Go over the entire length of the groove with this tool thoroughly.
Next, wrap a piece of emory cloth around the tool and polish the side of the dovetail to
remove any adhering deposit and burrs or bumps.

c. Examine the ribbed backing plate and rivets that attach it to the filter drum. Any loose
or broken rivets must be cut out and replaced.

d. The cover must be just wide enough to allow each edge to be bent down and fold into
the dovetail corner at the bottom of its groove without overlapping the adjacent cover.
To allow for this, each long edge should be trimmed off so that it lacks 1/16 of
reaching the farthest edge of its grooves.

e. Hold the cover in position firmly against the filter with its end and sides projecting
evenly beyond the edges of the panel. The cover must be carefully centered on its
panel. As the longitudinal calking grooves do not extend into the drum head, make a
small cut near each corner of the cover just above the ends of the longitudinal grooves,
so that the ends of the cover can be bent into the grooves. The over-lapping portions of
adjacent covers, which extend beyond the end of the groove and lie on the drum face,
should be so lapped that the top lap points in the opposite direction to the rotation of
the drum so the lap cannot catch on the cake discharger, when the drum is in
operation. If the drum has two panels of screen for each section, there will be a place
at the intersection of the longitudinal division strip grooves and the center
circumferential groove where the corners of the covers will overlap. To prevent this
overlap cut a x square notch in the two corners of the cover that fall in the
center circumferential groove.

f. Two helpers should hold the cover in position while it is first being calked, in order
that it cannot slip out of position. Have one man at each end of the cover and have
them watch its position carefully until all four corners are calked. If the cover should

15
 for any reason, shift out of its correct position, stop at once and get it properly
centered.

g. Have one helper place the wooden pressure block near one end of the cover almost
flush with lower side of the groove and hold this block firmly against the cover into
the groove with the calking tool, and fold or tuck the edge of the cover snugly into the
dovetail groove with the brass calking tool. You will be able to do the entire calking
operation with it. Flatten the edge of the screen down into the groove with the square
ended steel calking tool. Lock the cover in place at this point by calking a short piece
of calking lead (above 1 long) in the groove. This temporary lead is to be removed
when installing the zig zag locks. (It is not absolutely necessary to use the short lead
calking, but its use is recommended until the men become accustomed to handling the
covers).

h. Bearing heavily on the pressure block, drag it upward over the screen stretching it,
until its upper edge is in position. Almost flush with lower side of upper groove and
repeat the calking operation as described in paragraph (g) above. Check up carefully to
see that the screen has not moved and that it is still central on the section. Calk the
cover temporarily in the end circumferential groove. These calkings need only be
about 2 long.

i. Place the block in position and drag it over the screen horizontally to the right and
repeat operation: Bending, calking and temporarily locking the screen in position with
lead.

j. If the foregoing steps have been properly performed the cover will now be smooth and
snug on the section, well centered and ready to complete the calking of the grooves.

k. Staring at the centre of the section, hold the pressure block on the cover as before and
calk about 6 or 8 in to the groove this time omitting the lead calking. Next drag the
block directly upward to the bottom edge of the upper division strip and repeat the
calking operation.

l. Place the block at the bottom again to the right and calk another 6 or 8, then drag up
to the top and repeat. Move to the left at the bottom, and ten to the top. Work first to
the right and then to the left across the face of section. In this operation two or four
men are used, two men working together. One holds the block and the other calks, if
two teams work together, one works to the right and the other to the left.

m. When both longitudinal edges are calked, the ends of the cover are to be calked into
the circumferential grooves. Place the block a little to the left with its axis parallel to
drum and drag it to stretch the cover. Calk a short section and move to the other end
and repeat. Then work up and down from calkings to complete the ends.

n. If the cover has been properly installed. It will now be absolutely smooth and quite
tight on the section. The combined effect of dragging the pressure block and calking
16
 with the brass tool is to draw the cover tight. The zig zag locks only serve to hold the
cover in the groove. They do not assist in drawing the cover tight. Test the cover for
tightness by slapping with the palm of the hand. If it is properly installed, it will lie
tight against the support ribs and will not rattle. Do not put the filter back into
operation with loose covers, because they will soon wrinkle and crack.

o. Unless an adjacent cover is to be installed, proceed to installing the zig zag locking
strips as follows: (if the adjacent cover is to be installed follow the instructions given
in para (r)). Go over the length of the division strip groove with the square ended steel
calking tool and set the edge of the cover down on the bottom of the groove. If the
edge of the cover overlaps the edge of the adjacent cover in the bottom of the groove
trim it off, using a thin sharp chisel in center of the division strip groove. Use care not
to damage the division strip. Go over the groove with the steel tool after trimming to
be sure that the cover is well down.

p. The zig zag locking strips are made in two foot length. The one foot length are for use
in the center circumferential groove on drums having two cover panels per section.
The two foot lengths are for use in the division strips. The zig zag strips are always cut
on the bend in order to have the ends locked down. Do not butt jointing ends of strips
together. Allow about between ends. Beginning at the end of the drum, install the
zig zag locking strips in the dovetailed division strip groove. Inset the end of a strip in
the groove and bend it slightly and press it into the groove, bending it back and forth
to get each bend to enter the groove. If necessary tap the strip lightly with a hammer
handle to get it well seated in the groove. Avoid excessive bending as this will take the
set out of the strip and prevent it from locking properly. When the end of the center
of the drum is reached out off the last strip as required. File a slight bevel in the newly
cut end so it will not catch on the scrapper. Care may be taken not to strike the covers
with a hard hammer as this may cause cracks to develop.

q. Go over the zig zag strips with the steel calking tool and set them down firmly into the
bottom of the groove. (In doing this be very careful not to damage the cover with the
tool). Test the zig zag locks for proper seating by sliding a block diagonally over them.
If any lock strip is too high and bumps on the block, remove it and file some off the
top of the strip. Do not attempt to file a strip in place in the groove.

r. If an adjacent cover is to be replaced rotate drum under power to bring it into position.
Install cover in the same manner as above, calking its edges into the horizontal
dovetailed grooves. As the longitudinal groove does not extend into the end
circumferential groove, it will be necessary to make cuts in the cover at the end of the
groove. The small tabs formed by these cuts must be slipped under the corresponding
tab of the cover on the section ahead and over the cover on the section following.

s. Before putting the filter back in operation rotate it slowly and examine all cover
carefully. Any cracks in covers should be soldered in accordance with our cover repair
instructions. All zig zag calking strips should be down flush with the screen so that
they cannot damage the scrapper.
17
20. REPAIRING PERFORATED METAL SCREENS ON SIMPLEX FILTERS

REPAIRING SMALL CRACKS

a. Cut a piece of the .004 copper foil to the correct size and shape to cover the crack
with an overlap of approximately 1/8 to 3/16 all around. Lay this strip or patch on the
2 x 12 piece of sheet aluminum and spread a thin layer of compound on one side.
The compound can be applied with a brush, match or even spread on with the fingers.
Apply a hot electric or other soldering iron to the surface. Compound will instantly
flow and tin the surface of the patch.

b. Wipe off any accumulated dirt form the crack in the damaged screen and clean the
screen in the immediate vicinity of the crack with emery cloth. Should the edges of the
crack be raised, they should be hammered down as far as possible. Rub a thin coating
of repair compound around the crack.

c. Place tinned patch over the crack taking care that the edges overlap approximately
1/8 all around. Apply a hot iron to the patch starting at one end and running the iron
down the length of the patch. Compound will instantly flow and permanently sweat
the patch to the damaged screen.

d. During sweating process the patch should be held down and prevented from shifting
by means of the aluminium tool provided for the purpose. Aluminium is used because
the compound will not adhere to this metal.

e. Care should be taken to see that the edges of the patch are firmly sweated down to
avoid catching the scrapper.

f. To obtain best results the iron should be very hot. It is not necessary to use a tinned
iron, as a piece of plain copper or even steel, will work equally well on the compound.

g. Large breaks as jagged tears in the cover can be repaired with a piece of perforated
screen. Butt piece of screen approximately 1/8 to 3/16 larger than the hole to be
repaired. File a bevel on the edges of the patch so that it will not catch on the scrapper.
Lay patch on the wide sheet of aluminium and lay the aluminium tool on top of the
patch with approximately 1/8 of the patch exposed.

h. Spread some compound on the exposed portion of the patch and apply the hot iron
thereto. The compound will immediately flow and tin the edge exposed. It will be
noted that compound will not flow under the aluminium. Repeat the process on all
edges of the patch.

i. Clean the cover with sand paper and spread a little compound over the hole to be
repaired; place the patch over it and sweat in place with a hot iron holding down the
patch with the tool provided. The edges of the patch must be well beveled and tightly
18
 sweated down so as not to catch on the scrapper. The finished patch should be flat and
smooth. It should not bulge.

21. REFACING SIMPLEX AUTOMATIC FILTER VALUE FLAT FACE WITH

OUTSIDE STEM

REFACING AND GRINDING

a) The flat face of the valve body (stationary part of valve) bears against the wear plate
(which rotates with the trunnion) and must be kept properly lubricated. This is very
important if the wearing faces are to retain their efficiency for many years. If the valve
becomes leaky, inspect the lubrication ducts and see that they are clear. Keep the valve
well lubricated for a time and see if leakages was due to poor lubrication. If not, it will
be necessary to remove the valve and wear plate, and reface them. The valve cannot be
made to seat properly by tightening the valve stem nut, as small vacuum causes greater
pressure between the valve face and its seat than can be given by the valve stem
spring.

b) Remove vacuum and air connections and valve adjusting rod. Remove from the valve
stem the cotter pin and nut or the nut and jam nut, spring and washers, and remove
valve. Mark position of the wear plate on the trunnion. Remove attaching nuts (and
hollow head capscrews. If any) from wear plate and remove it from the trunnion. Take
the valve stem out of the wear plate.

c) The body and wear plate may be refaced by any method that will produce an
absolutely smooth flat surface accurate to 0015 across the face but any machining
operation used should remove only enough metal to clean up the faces and should be
absolutely square with the axis of the valve. A convenient method is to chuck the body
in an accurate lathe, check alignment with a dial indicator and take a very light cut
across the face. Check before removing from lathe, with a tool makers straight edge.
The error across the face should not admit a 0015 thick gauge. If not flat, take another
light cut. Do not remove from lathe until face is flat. Reface the wear plate in the same
manner.

d) The valve body and wear plate should now be lapped or hand-scrapper to a perfect
seat. Hand scrapping should only be attempted by a skilled machinist, using an
accurate surface plate slightly larger than the valve. Coat the surface plate with a very
thin application of Prussian blue, place it carefully on the valve face and slide it back
and forth and round to ark the high spots with Prussian blue. Remove the surface plate
and scrape down the high spots. Repeat this operation until the valve face shows
practically 100% contact on the surface plate. Threat the wear plate in the same
manner.

e) To lap the valve body and wear plate to a good seat, clamp the body to a bench and
apply a liberal coating of No. 60 carborundum or emery and machine oil to the face.
Place the wear plate on the valve end, using combined back and forth rotary motion,
19
 lap them to a seat. Remove wear plate and wash both parts clean. Coat one face lightly
with Prussian blue and spot the plate and valve together. If not perfect, continue
lapping and checking until it is properly seated. On large valves it may be found more
satisfactory to do the lapping in a drill press if one is available. In such a case, clamp
the valve body to the table and drive the wear plate from the spindle through a flexible
connection. As the wear plate revolves, swing the table back and forth and turn it
occasionally. Do not allow the plate to revolve concentrically with the body.

f) After either scrapping or lapping make a final check by testing for any possible gap
between the body and wear plate. Any such gap should not exceed 0015 at any point.
Be sure absolutely that all the abrasive has been washed of all parts before re-
assembling.

g) Install the stem in the wear plate. Clean trunnion end and wear plate rear face carefully
and cost liberally with grease and then replace the wear plate on the trunnion.

22. SIMPLEX FILTER TANK

REMOVAL OF AGITATOR

a) It is a good practice to clean and paint the agitator and the inside of the filter tank at
the end of each season. To facilitate this work the agitator may be removed without
taking the drum out of its bearings.

b) Remove the agitator form the scrapper side of the tank. Put several wood blocks under
the agitator rakes to support the weight of the agitator.

c) At each of the agitator remove the cotter pin and washer from inside end of the bearing
pin on which the agitator swings.

d) Remove the setscrew that holds the agitator bearing pin in place.

e) Direct three or four men to take hold of the nearest agitator rake, remove the wood
blocks and pull out the agitator. In doing this be careful not to damage the perforated
covers on the filter.

f) When the agitator has been removed, clean and paint inside of tank.

20
 LUBRICANTS REQUIRED FOR SIMPLEXCANE MUD FILTER AND ACCESSORIES

S.NO LUBRICANT
EQUIPMENT LOCATION GROUP QUANTITY FREQUENCY
1 Simplex Filter
Check
(a) Gear Housing Submerge SAE - 40 Fill to level plus weekly
Check
(b) Planetory gear box Oil level SAE - 40 Fill to sight glass level weekly
(c) Force feed lubricator Oil level SAE - 40 Fill to sight glass level Per Shift
Oil level
(d) Agitator & drum drive cup SAE - 40 Fill to level Per Shift
2 Feed Mixer
(a) Planetory gear box Oil level SAE - 40 Fill to sight glass level Weekly
Oil level
(b) Housing cup SAE - 40 Fill to level Per Shift
3 Blower Bearings Grease cup Bearing grease Fill to level Per Shift
4 Twice
Vacuum Pump Grease cup Bearing grease Fill to level weekly
5 Conveyor
(a) Planetory gear box Oil level SAE - 40 Fill to sight glass level Weekly

21