Components of your Telephone System

When planning where to put your telephone jacks, the best place to start is the demarcation point
between your wiring and the wiring of the telephone company:
Locating the Demarcation Point

Your telecommunications company maintains the wiring up to a demarcation point. The demarcation
point is typically at the Network Interface Device (NID) usually located on the outside of your
home. If you have an older home or have a home alarm system, the demarcation point may be found at a
Network Interface Jack which is inside your home, at the point where the telephone wiring enters your
home.

Note: If you subscribe to telephone service from your cable television provider or from an alternative
provider (like a VoIP provider), the information contained here may not be helpful to you and could
harm your equipment. Attempting to work on these other systems may result in a loss of service.

You may also have different components if you have a fiber to the home application. Further, if you
are attempting to install a digital subscriber line (DSL) for broadband Internet service, this information
may not be sufficient.

If you do not fully understand which system you have or you are not confident in your ability to work
on the components of your system (regardless of whether it is depicted in this information or not), you
should contact your service provider to install new components or troubleshoot existing ones.

If you cannot locate either a NID or a Network Interface Jack, it may be helpful to contact the telephone
company to determine where your demarcation point is located. If you live in a multi-unit or multi-
tenant building, you may want to contact the property manager or condo association to determine where
these devices are located in your building.

Your local service provider may also be able to help you determine where the demarcation point is. You
will also need to contact your landlord to determine whether they are responsible for repair of the
telephone inside wire on their premises.

The Network Interface Device

When working in or near that NID, be sure to be careful. Aside from being the device where the
telephone service wire connects to the inside wire, the NID also provides electrical protection through
the electrical grounding system on the customers premises, so any work you do on the NID could have
an effect on how these electrical systems are grounded.

Note: The NID and/or Network Interface Device is maintained and installed by your local service providers. In
many cases, there may not be a charge for a new installation, however, if you wish to have your NID moved for
convenience or aesthetics or if you have damaged the NID, a charge will typically apply. Contact your local
service provider for more information.

The device itself will have 3-5 posts that interconnect the telecommunications companys wire to your
inside wire. If the NID is located outside your house, it will have a plastic cover. You will need to
remove this cover to access the wiring, but since this cover is an important protector of the telephone
equipment, it must be properly reinstalled after your work is completed. The telephone company side of
the NID is locked and you should not attempt to open it.

A typical network interface device will include a test jack that looks like a typical modular telephone
outlet shown here:
By unplugging the short wire and plugging a working phone directly into this jack, you can determine
whether a problem is in the home (wiring, jacks or telephone equipment) or in the telephone companys
lines. It is recommended that you use a wired telephone (i.e., not a cordless phone) for this test since a
cordless phone may actually be the cause of static or other noise on the line. If the phone does not
operate using the test jack, you should call your telephone company because the trouble is in the
network leading up to your network interface device. If the phone operates when you have plugged it
into the test jack, the fault is in the inside wiring, jacks or telephone equipment and is the customers
responsibility.

If you do hear a dial tone when testing from the test jack, you have three choices:

Call your local telephone company to receive a quote to repair your inside wire or to place a repair
order (note that some companies do offer repair insurance programs that allow you to pay a monthly fee
to have your inside wire covered by a repair plan. Contact your local provider if this service is of
interest to you).

Call a contractor to repair the service. Contractors are listed in your telephone directory.

Repair the trouble yourself (this guide is directed towards those who choose this option)

Modular Outlets

In older homes, where the wiring to the demarcation point may prove to be more difficult, planning may
begin at the most convenient modular outlet. Modular outlets are the typical phone jacks into which you
currently plug your telephone (or Customer Premise Equipment). There are a variety of modular
outlets available on the market today to suit individual needs. Common modular outlets look like:
Starting from a modular jack, and with some modifications, you will be able to extend or move service
from an existing jack to a more convenient place in your home.

Safety First

Telephone installation work is generally safe provided you follow these guidelines:

Do not work with outlets and wires that you are not sure are telephone facilities. If you are unsure which
facilities are or are not telephone facilities, you should consult with an experienced professional.

Do not connect household electrical power to telephone lines.

Do not work on any telephone wires (or any wires) during a thunderstorm.

Work with insulated tools.

Touch only one wire at a time.

Note: When working with telephone wires and connections, there is always the possibility of an
electrical shock. It is generally recommended that premises wiring be disconnected from incoming
telephone lines. Do this at the NID. You may also choose to lift the handset of one telephone connected
to the line as a means of avoiding electrical power surges which occur when your telephone rings.
Compliance with Local Building and Safety Codes

When planning and installing your telephone wiring and outlets, you must observe and comply with any
applicable state and local codes. The state code can be found at the Wisconsin Administrative Code,
Commerce Chapter 16 at: http://www.commerce.state.wi.us/SB/SB-DivCodesListing.html Before
doing any significant wiring work, you may want to consult with your municipal government to
determine if permits are necessary for the work you plan to do.

Before You Start

Before starting any telephone installation work, familiarize yourself with the products, procedures and
safety precautions outlined in this brochure. Be sure to review the safety precautions included with any
equipment you have purchased as well. As you work on your telephone wiring (or any wiring) the motto
safety first should be your guide.

The telecommunications industry has become increasingly diverse with the types and number of
services that are available, as well as the types and number of service providers. This information is
intended to be a guide for the typical situation involving telephone wiring. However, depending on
the type of service you are using (i.e., cable modem, digital subscriber line (DSL) or any high-speed
internet service, VoIP etc) you may need to refer to other materials.

This guide will be particularly helpful if you wish to change phones, add an extension, or install your
own wiring system. To do so, you must use FCC approved jacks and telephone industry standard wiring,
which are widely available at electronics and home improvement stores.

List of suggested Tools and Materials

Screwdriver

Hammer
Needle nose pliers

Wire stripper

Drill

Fish tape or chain

Diagonal wire cutters

Tape measure

Drill and assorted bits

Marking pencil

Nails to mount outlet boxes

Standard electrical outlet boxes

Jacks as required

Network interface wire junction

Staples and staple gun

(Note: if used properly, staples can be a convenient way to secure wiring. However, use care to ensure that you do
not pierce the wiring when securing it with a staple.)

Planning the Wiring Job

As is true with most home improvement projects, a good plan is the foundation for success. Before
purchasing any telephone wire and accessories, carefully plan the installation job to determine which
components you will need. You will need to consider where you want to locate modular jacks for
greatest convenience and ease of use. You will also want to consider your telecommunications needs for
both now and the future since this could affect your choice of wire, which comes in various categories
(CAT 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 (additional information about the various types of wire is found in a chart at the
end of this document).

Telephone wire: CAT 5 cable is the most commonly used today and is recommended. You are
encouraged to use CAT 3 cable at a minimum to allow for the best service quality. Additionally, you
will need to decide which type of jack is best for the particular location. One thing to consider is the use
of outlets with protective covers in areas where there may be excessive exposure to dust or moisture.

Helpful hints for Installation

Place as much wire as possible in "nonliving" areas such as basements or attics.

"Fish" wire through walls to basement areas where possible, especially on interior walls. Exposed wires
are more susceptible to damage from pets, children furniture and vacuum cleaners.

When drilling "blind" holes through walls or floor spaces, be sure you know where the drill will exit.

Be sure there are no electrical, plumbing, or heating facilities to damage.

Avoid making sharp corners with wire. Corners should be rounded and fasteners placed within a few
inches of the bend.

When possible, wires "spanning joists" should be kept 2" to 3" from protective parts of the building
such as sills, beams or walls.
Telephone wires should never be spliced. When it's necessary to extend an existing wire, a wire junction
block should be used in making connections.

A tool which is designed to remove insulation should be utilized when stripping wires rather than a
sharp knife which could nick a conductor and result in a service problem.

It is recommended only one wire conductor be placed between any two washers on a terminal post. If
more than one conductor is necessary, additional washers should be added. All wire should be looped in
the same direction as tightening of the nut.

Wire Routing Strategies

There are two standard routing strategies:

Continuous Loop: In this method a single wire runs from the demarcation point to a jack, then another
wire runs to the next jack and so on, forming one continuous loop. But, like Christmas tree lights, if the
wire gets cut somewhere, all the jacks beyond the cut will be disabled. This method may also make it
more difficult to add a 2nd or 3rd line somewhere in the house.
Star Pattern or Home Run: As the name implies each jack is wired separately and directly to a central
point where they can be connected to the telecommunications companys wiring. This system may take more
time and use more wire, but it more easily accommodates future growth and trouble-shooting problems.

You may find a combination of these strategies where there is a continuous loop on a floor of a house,
but each floor feeds independently to the demarcation point. In older condo and apartment buildings you
are likely to find a continuous loop, but newer buildings incorporate the home run method.

Telephone Wiring
Telephone wire normally used for inside installation contains four individually colored conductors. The
wire is solid copper in either 22 or 24 gauge. See Tables A and B for wire color codes and spacing from
other wire conductors.

Table A: Recommended Wire Spacing.*

* Telephone wire must be installed with these minimum separations from other wires in both parallel
and crossing applications.
Table B: Wire Connection and Coding Chart

Pair

Jack Screw

2-Pair Wire

3-Pair Wire Color

4-Pair Wire Color

No.

Designation

Color

R or R1

Red

Red

Blue with White Stripe

G or T1

Green

Green

White with Blue Stripe

Y or GN

Yellow

Orange with White Stripe

Orange with White Stripe

B or AUX

Black

White with Orange Stripe

White with Orange Stripe

Green with White Stripe

Green with White Stripe

White with Green Stripe

White with Green Stripe

Brown with White Stripe

White with Brown Stripe

Telephone Wire

The dial tone arrives at your home on two wires which are typically twisted together to form a twisted
pair. While twisted pairs can be bunched together to form large cables, by the time the connection reaches
your home, it has typically been reduced to an aerial drop wire (which contain 1 to 6 pair), or a buried drop
wire (which contain 1 to 6 pair). In order to tell the various wires and pairs apart, there is an industry
standard color coding system. Be aware, however, depending on who installed the wire, there may be
variances. However, if a professional installed the wiring, they should have followed this color coding
system. Your single- line phone system will work properly when the wire color pattern is consistent with
each wire secured to its proper terminal on a jack or spliced to the same color (as in a junction block where
a system branches).

Installation in New Construction

The best time to place wiring for telephone service is before the wallboard or wall covering has been
placed. The method of installing telephone wire is similar to that of installing wire for electrical outlets.
That is, you start from one point, run wiring to the first location, from that location to the next location. The
telephone company will install the Network Interface. The starting point for your wiring is at the jack/outlet
box you provide adjacent to the Network Interface (it should be within six inches). By comparison, the
Network Interface is like your power meter and the jack/outlet you install is like your power panel. It is
from the jack outlet that you provide that the wiring must start, and run to all other modular outlets.

As an example, in order that the telephone company and you have a common point to wire to, the location
of the wiring starting point will be the location of the power panel. If this location has a hollow wall (wall
studs), it is suggested that you place two outlet boxes at this location, one for the left side of a stud and one
for the right side of the same stud. The telephone company can then install the Network Interface into one
of the outlet boxes and you can install a jack for your inside wiring in the other (this arrangement should be
on an outside wall if possible). This will provide a method to connect your inside wiring to the Network
Interface with a short eight inch standard FCC plug-to-plug cord.
For wiring in a new construction, it is recommended to use at least 4-pair wire for the concealed portions of
the wiring (the portions that will be behind the drywall). Using this type of wire will make additional
connections easier in the future.
Concealed wiring should be installed prior to the walls being covered by insulation and drywall

Plan your wire routing to avoid future problems including overheating (i.e. place the wire away from
elements that may get hot like recessed lighting) or moisture (i.e., place the wiring away from plumbing
fixtures).

Start a new wiring run for each jack.

Run the wire through holes drilled in the studs and floor joists.

Leave extra wire at each end of the installation for when you make the connection.

Installing Telephone Outlet Boxes:

In new constructions, many homeowners install outlet boxes in the wall that will be flush with the wall,
like an electrical outlet.

Depending on the use of the phone, the outlet boxes will need to be at different heights:

For desk phones, the standard height is 14 inches from the bottom of the outlet box to the floor.

For wall-mounted telephones, the recommended height is 58 inches from the bottom of the box to the
floor.

Where a wall telephone is to be placed over a countertop, the recommended height is 10 inches from the
bottom of the box to the counter; however, there must be enough room below and above the outlet box
to allow the telephone to be installed. Before mounting the outlet boxes, determine the amount of
protrusion required beyond the stud to assure that the outlet box will be flush with the finished wall
surface. The standard wallboard coverings could alter this figure. If you do not know how thick the wall
covering will be, check with your contractor. Standard protrusion is 3/8. However, this will vary with
wall surface thickness.

Adding Wire to Existing Service:

When adding wiring to existing telephone service, you must run the wire from a known working
telephone outlet, wire junction, or the NID. The wiring will then be connected to a working outlet or
feed for the new telephone location or locations. This will typically mean that the new wire will be
visible (as opposed to having the wire run through the floorboards and studs as is available in a new
construction). 2-pair wire is normally used in this situation. Standard baseboard jacks are easiest for this
type of installation.

Helpful Hints:

Start at the point where you intend to install a telephone jack.

Leave at least 12 inches of extra wire at the planned location of the jack.

Leave at least 3 feet at the point of connection to your current telephone wiring.

Fasten the wire to the baseboard and moldings using a staple gun or a wire clip every 12 inches. Pull the
wire straight (but do not stretch it) before installing a staple or clip.

Be careful not to drive the staples or clips through the wire.

Do not run the wire on the floor or under carpets. Normal activity can damage the wiring and cause it to
break.
Do not run the wiring through or near heating ducts unless the wire is rated for this type of installation.
Heat can cause the wires to become brittle and break.

Do not wrap the wire around nails or hooks.

Connecting the wires

Using a wire stripping tool, remove about 4 inches of the outside plastic sheath (usually beige or grey)
that bundles the wires together. Be careful not to nick insulation or cut the wires beneath the sheath.

Using a wire stripping tool, remove about 1 inch of the plastic insulation from each of the colored wires
to expose the copper as shown here:

Today, it is more common to see 4-twisted pair wiring like this:

It is called Cat 5 cable and is the national standard for all new telephone wiring projects.
Fasten the jack casing securely to the wall or baseboard using the appropriate metal or wood screws.
Pull the wire through the opening in the jack casing and connect it as depicted here:

4-Pair Wire Connection: A 4-pair cable is wired to a standard jack as shown in the 3-pair wire diagram
above but also leaving the brown wires aside.

Match each colored wire to the appropriate terminal on the jacks as shown in the diagrams. In the old
standard color scheme the first pair has one green wire ("tip") and one red wire ("ring"). The second pair
has one black wire ("tip") and one yellow wire ("ring"). For a single phone line, only the green and red
pair is normally used. The black and yellow pair is normally spare and available to install a second
phone line. For multi-line installations see wiring options at the end of this booklet.
Ensure that no copper wire is touching any exposed metal inside the jack or electrical box.

Ensure that all connections are secure.

Place the jack cover over the casing and either snap or screw it into place.

At the Demarcation Point:

Strip the wire sheath and colored wires the same way you did for the jacks.

Connect the wires that come from each jack location to the entry wiring at the demarcation point. Be
sure to match the colors correctly.

Repairing inside wire yourself/ Trouble Shooting

Ensure that your inside wire is connected properly at the demarcation point. You can determine a lot
about the trouble by listening to sounds on your telephone line:

Static: Wires could be wet or pierced. Wires could be loose at a connecting point. Carefully check all
wires and connections.

Buzzing or Humming: A wire may have come into contact with metal, other than the connection
terminals. Is any exposed copper wire touching the box or other metal around the jack? Check that
colors have been matched correctly. Also, if you are using a cordless phone, you should try plugging in a
wired telephone to ensure that the problem is not with your equipment. Given the nature of a cordless
phone, it is possible that buzzing or humming is coming from the phone itself and not your wiring.
Dead Air: Wires may be crossed. Is there a contact between any exposed copper from wires of different
colors (red crossed with green if 2-pair wire is being used; or blue crossed with white if 3-pair wire is
being used)?

Cross Talk: Be sure you are not using a cordless phone, since cross talk is likely from the wireless nature
of the phone. If you have multiple phone lines in the home or are in a multi-unit dwelling, cross talk
could be the result of damages or faulty wiring.

Check that all connections have been made properly. Are all the colored wires connected to the right
terminals? Is the exposed copper wiring making a solid contact with the right terminals?

Check the wire. Is it broken or split? Is it pierced by a staple, nail, screw or other object? If it is, replace
the entire section of wire from end to end.

Check that the pins or connecting terminals inside the jacks are not touching each other and that a jack
itself is not damaged.

How many phones do you have? It may be possible that your phones are drawing too much energy and
compromising the system as a whole. Unplug a few phones a see if the problems persist.

Modem problems? If you are having problems connecting to the Internet, the problem may be with the
modem. Try disconnecting the computer and use a standard telephone and see if there are problems on
the line. If the line does not show a problem, the issue is likely with your computer equipment. This is
also true if you are using a Digital Subscriber Line (DSL) (or other high speed internet service) which
may involve separate filters that could cause problems on the line, even though the line is working
properly.
To isolate a trouble in your inside wire:

Locate your wire distribution device (connector block) at your demarcation point;

Disconnect one pair of wires from the distribution device;

Check to see if your service has been restored at other jack locations in your home;

Continue disconnecting wire pairs, one pair at a time, to determine which wire is the cause of the
trouble;

Once you have isolated the problem circuit, it is suggested that you replace the entire section of wire
that is defective or the jack if it is causing the problem.

If you are unable to repair or isolate an inside wire trouble yourself, repair service is available from
your local telephone company or an independent contractor. Be aware that charges may apply for these
services if you do not subscribe to a monthly insurance plan through your local service provider.

Information for Multiple Phone Line Installations

Two lines can be connected to single jacks or two lines can be wired to double jacks according to the
following diagrams and using the terminals and wires (or their color equivalents shown below):
Four lines can be set up on double jacks using the pattern below:
The following chart shows wiring patterns and jack/plug names for installing up to three phone lines
using single jacks and plugs.

Wiring patterns and jack/plug names

For key systems and other multi-line equipment, 4-pair cable can be connected to RJ-61 plugs and jacks
that allow up to four phone lines.

They have a wider 8-pin plug and an 8-terminal jack as shown below:
In such installations a phone or fax machine with a standard plug can still be connected to a properly
wired RJ-61 jack to access the first or second line, but an RJ-61 plug would be needed to use the third or
fourth line.

Wiring patterns can vary for specific 4-line (RJ-61) and data (RJ-45) installations so you will want to
reference a guide for your specific equipment or specific data application.
Wire Category Table:

Cat XX wire reference is a specified category of performance for inside wire and cable
systems.
MAKING CAT 3, 4, 5, 5E TWISTED-PAIR NETWORK CABLES

Last updated:

INTRODUCTION. This article explains how to make cables used to network two or
more computers together to form local area networks (LANs) for home or office. Patch
cables for more complex networks are also covered.

There are three common unshielded twisted-pair (UTP) network standards in current use.
These are 10 Mhz 10BASE-T, 100Mhz 100BASE-TX, and 1000BASETX (1 GHz)
Ethernet. Although the 100BASE-TX standard is presently the most common LAN
standard for new installations, there are still many installations that rely on both 10Base2
(Coax) and 10BaseT (Twisted Pair-10 MHz). For new wiring, we suggest that CAT 5E
wiring be installed. In general, the cost of the cable is only a small part of the cost of
wiring for Ethernet and having 350 MHz capable CAT 5E wiring in place allows
everything from phone lines to 10BaseT, 100TX or 1000BaseTX Ethernet. This article
covers 10BaseT and 100TX wiring cable standards.

CAT 3, 4, 5 AND 5E EXPLAINED

The "CAT" is short for Category. The international standards committee rates the wiring
of interest into three major catagories; CAT 3, CAT 4, CAT 5 and CAT5E. CAT 3 is the
common phone wiring found in many homes and most businesses. It is capable of
operating as LAN wiring for 10BaseT connectivity (10 MHz) but will not serve as
wiring for 100 MHz 100 TX or 1000BaseTX Ethernet. CAT 4 is wire that was used for
regular 10BaseT before 100TX became available. CAT 4, like CAT 3, is incapable of 100
TX operation at full 100 TX speeds. These Categories differ primarily in the number of
twists per foot of length, the specification and quality of the wires and their coverings.
CAT 3 is suitable for phone service and 10BaseT Ethernet, CAT 5 is suitable for all the
above plus 100BASE-TX and CAT 5E serves all of the above plus connectivity at up to
350 MHz using 1000BaseT.
PHONE WIRING

Phone wiring uses the same 8 wires as Ethernet wiring. However, when used for phone
connectivity, the center two wires are used for line

1. Depending upon which wiring standard is used, the next two wires adjacent to the
center two form Line 2 or Line 3 and the pairs on either side are used for the 3rd and 4th
or 2nd and 4th phone connections. Each of the lines is carried by one pair of wires,
twisted together in a helix pattern. If one has a four line phone and its cord is plugged
into the 8 conductor RJ45 outlet with four phone lines, that phone can access all four
lines by pressing the appropriate line button 1-4.

1
Tip and Ring Or T & R are Telco Designations

For The Two Wires Used For A Single Phone Connection

HYBRID PHONE/LAN WIRING

Many builders of modern homes advertise that they pre-wired the home with CAT 5
wiring and homeowners often attempt to use this pre-wiring to run their computer
networks, only to run into problems. The reason is that the CAT 5 pre-wired builder's
installation usually consists of running a single CAT 5 (8 conductor) cable from the
central wiring closet to several outlets in a room or group of rooms in daisy chain
fashion. There will be a number of runs from the wiring closet to various areas of the
home but these are generally daisy chained to multiple outlets in a room or even groups
of rooms.

Connecting several phones on a single daisy-chained wiring run will work just fine... if
two or more people pick up the same line together, they're simply on a party line and
everyone can talk and listen on the single connection. Unfortunately, the same is not true
for LAN wiring. Each client computer system must have its own set of transmit and
receive pairs. If

2
the Local Area Network (LAN) cards of two computers are bussed together (wired in
parallel), neither will work.

When the homeowner with a pre-wired CAT 5 home attempts to set up their home
network using these cables, they discover that they can have one Ethernet connection on
a wiring run or up to four different phone lines. But, in order to use the one cable for both
phone and Ethernet service, one must assure that the phone and Ethernet connections are
not shorted together. If only a single line phone and two wires are used for the phone
service, the other wires can serve the Ethernet application. Be sure to construct the patch
cable from the wall to the client computer so that it skips the center two connections. The
reason is that one cannot be sure of the termination the Network Card, Hub or Switch
will make for these two wires. If they are shorted to ground, goodbye phone service.

People often think that the center two wires are required for full duplex 100 TX operation
but this is untrue, Both 10BaseT and 100 TX require only four conductions for full
operation and both standards skip the center pair of wires (the phone's line number 1).

One must also assure that the phone connections for shared Phone line 1 and Ethernet use
of the CAT 5 cable uses only the center wire

pair. Connecting the other pairs to the phone can result in poor or no Ethernet
connectivity. It's best to construct a phone connection cable using only the two center
wires.

LANS SIMPLIFIED. The simplest LAN consists of two computers, each having a
network interface card (NIC), or network adapter and running network software. These
NIC cards must be connected together so that the transmit pair from one NIC card goes
to the receive pair of the other. When only two computers are networked, a special cable
can be used for this application that has the transmit and receive pairs "crossed over" and
is referred to as a crossover cable.

When more than two computers must be connected, the crossover trick won't work and
devices known as a Hubs and/or Switches must be used. In this situation, each of the
computers is plugged into a port on the Hub or Switch using a straight- thru cable. The
hub or switch has its ports (female RJ45 jacks) wired so that its Transmit lines will go to
the Receive connections of the RJ45 jack on a NIC card using a straight through cable.
Switches and Hubs often have one RJ45 wired with
3
the same transmit/receive pair pattern as a NIC card. This is used to "Uplink" one HUB
or SWITCH to another HUB or SWITCH. Sometimes a switch is provided, marked
"Uplink", that swaps the Transmit and Receive lines for one of the RJ45 Jacks so that it
can either serve as another client LAN card connection or to uplink to another Hub or
Switch. Another common practice is to put in two RJ45 receptacles for one of the ports,
with one wired for conventional connection to a NIC card and the other wired with the
transmit/receive lines wired to uplink to another hub or switch. This 9th port is usually
labeled "uplink." If the hub or switch has nine ports and one is marked "uplink", don't
think that there are nine ports. There are only 8 and if the uplink port is used, the normal
port 8 cannot be used.

[ Top | Contents | Next - Cable and Connectors ]

NETWORK CABLE AND CONNECTORS

Last updated:

There are several classifications of cable used for twisted-pair

networks. Don't try to save a few cents by using a low grade cable. Install only Category
5E ( CAT 5E) cable for all new installations. There are several fire code classifications
for the outer insulation of CAT 3, 4, 5 and 5E cable. The cost varies based on the quality
of manufacturer as well as the insulation and sheathing used. It is not unusual to find a
price differential of three hundred percent (300%) between the lowest grade and the
highest grade insulations. Most wiring jobs can use the less expensive CMR cable
( "riser" cable). However, if the wiring is in an office complex and runs through
suspended ceilings, Local, State or National codes may require the use of more expensive
CMP or so-called plenum cable. Plenum is the name of the ducts used to distribute air in
a building. Local, state or national codes, or the landlord's lease, may require the use of
the more expensive plenum-jacketed cable so if the wiring is in a business environment,
be sure to check the wiring code and the landlord's rules. If in doubt, use plenum. CMR
cable is generally acceptable for all applications not requiring plenum cable.

4
CAT 3, 5 and 5E wire is available in reel-in-a-box packaging and on spools. Reel-in-a-
box is very handy for pulling the wire without putting twists in it. For spooled cable, a
cable reel stand or special reel handling tools are required. With spooled wire, pulling
wire is usually a two-person job. Before reel-in-box packaging became available, broom
handles were sometimes used as an axel to hold wire reels. One person would hold the
broom handle that ran through the center of the wiring spool and the other would pull and
measure the cable. Otherwise, the wire usually ended up in a tangled mess.

Stranded wire patch cables are generally specified for cable segments running from a
wall jack to a PC and for patch panels. They are more flexible than solid core wire and
are well suited for patch cables. The rational for using stranded cable is that the constant
flexing of patch cables may wear-out solid core cable and break it. This shouldn't be a
real concern in the average small network. A downside to stranded cable is its
susceptibility to moisture degradation. in general, stranded cables should not be used for
runs of more than about 10 or 20 feet.

Solid core cable is quite suitable for connecting computers directly to other computers or
hubs. They serve this purpose for many home and small business networks. They are also
quite acceptable for use as patch cables. For notebook computers that are constantly
moving around, consider stranded wire patch cables.

CAT 3, 4, 5 and 5E cables have four twisted pairs of wire for a total of eight individually
insulated wires. Each pair is color coded with one wire having a solid color (blue, orange,
green, or brown) twisted around a second wire with a white background and a stripe of
the same color. The solid colors may have a white stripe in some cables. Cable colors are
commonly described using the background color followed by the color of the stripe; e.g.,
white-orange is a cable with a white background and an orange stripe.

CONNECTORS. The straight through and cross-over patch cables discussed in this
article are terminated with CAT 3, 4, 5 or 5E RJ-45 modular plugs (RJ means "Registered
Jack"). RJ-45 plugs are similar to those you'll see on the end of telephone cables except
they have eight versus four or six contacts on the end of the phone cords, so they are
about twice as wide as 4 wire phone connectors. Make sure the RJ45 connectors are rated
for the class of wiring being installed. CAT5E connectors will work fine for CAT 5, 4 and
3 applications but a lower rated connector will not work for higher rated wiring. Also,
there are RJ-45 plugs designed to handle either solid core wire and stranded wire. Others
are designed specifically for one kind of wire or the other. Be sure to buy connectors
appropriate for the wire being used.
5
[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - Tools ]

NETWORK CABLE TOOLS

Last updated:

Modular Plug Crimp Tool. Crimping requires a modular crimp tool. This one works for all
kinds of telephone cable work and it works well for Ethernet cables. Buy a quality tool,
not one of the cheap plastic and tin

models. The bad taste of unreliable connections will soon replace the initial sweet smell of
a low price. You don't need a lot of bells and whistles, just a tool which will securely and
precisely crimp RJ-45 connectors. The tool should have precision machined metal dies
that crimp the RJ-45 connectors. Better tools will also have a ratchet assembly built in that
prevents the crimping action from reversing itself. The ratchet requires that the full crimp
motion be executed before the handles can be returned to the open position. The tools we
stock are of the highest quality, yet are reasonably priced. We believe they are the best
tools made for the money. Even though the crimper has cutters that can be used to cut the
cable and individual wires, and possibly even stripping the outer jacket, separate stripping
and cutting tools will do a better job.
Universal UTP Stripping Tool. This model works well and does an excellent job of cutting
and trimming cables. For a professional result, one of these will serve you well.

6
UTP Cable Sheath Stripper. This is one of the neatest tools we've seen for cutting away the outer
sheath of CAT 5 cable; without so much as nicking the insulation on the inner wire pairs. Just push
the wire into the hole, spin it around once and off comes the cable sheath. This can also be done
using the Universal UTP stripping tool, but this little gadget will

do it quicker and easier.

Diagonal Cutters ("4 to 6"). If a technician could only take one tool to a job, this is the one that
99% would choose. With a little practice, this becomes a wire stripper as well as a wire cutter.
By knowing how hard

to squeeze, this tool will cleanly strip the insulation off any size wire from 12 gage up. It's also
much easier to use diagonal cutters (sometimes called "diags" or "dikes") to cut the cable off at
the reel and to fine tune the cable ends during assembly. The cable sheath can also be stripped
using the diagonal cutter and a small knife (X-acto, utility, etc.). To remove the sheath, carefully
slice the outer jacket down the wire sheath and then use the diagonal cutter to trim it off around
the circumference.

Punch Tools. This tool is not used for making patch cables but is a must for professional,
between room, wiring using RJ45 Jacks and Patch Panels. These devices have V-Grove
cutting/holding jaws that are designed to cut into the insulation on CAT 3, 5 or 5E wires and
make contact between the wire and the RJ45 Jack's connector pins, either on the Patch Panels or
individual Jacks. The punch down tool spreads the V-Groove jaws apart and pushes the wire
into the groove. Interchangeable punch blades provide a variety of functions such as trimming
excess wire next to the V-Grooves. Our punch tools are of the highest quality and a large
selection of interchangeable punch tool cutter/dies are available.

[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - A Little Theory ]

A LITTLE THEORY

Last updated:

10BASE-T and 100BASE-TX Ethernets consist of two sets of transmission lines. Each
transmission line set is a pair of twisted wires. One pair receives data signals and the other pair
transmits data signals. A balanced

7
line driver or transmitter is at one end of one of these lines and a line receiver is at the
other end. A (much) simplified schematic for one of these lines and its transmitter and
receiver is shown below:

Data pulses travel down the transmission line but what began as a square wave of energy
is attenuated as it travels along the transmission line. The line itself has resistance as well
as capacitance and inductance. These cause the corners of the square wave to become
rounded and attenuated. When the length of the cable exceeds design limits for a
particular protocol and frequency, communication becomes erratic and unreliable. See
http://www.e-

insite.net/ednmag/index.asp?layout=article&articleid=CA149133&industryid =2282 for a

more complete discussion.

Using quality CAT 5 Cabling, good wiring practices and no EMI problems, the maximum
recommended transmission line length between nodes for 10BaseT and 100TX is 100
Meters (about 329 feet). For Gigabit wiring using 1000BaseT operating at 350MHz, the
limitation is 82 feet.. The primary characteristic used for communication is is the voltage
potential between the transmission pair and current flowing near the surface of the
wires. This energy also resides in the magnetic field which surrounds the wires and the
electric field between the wires. In other words, the data pulse forms an electromagnetic
wave which is guided by, and travels along the wires.

The characteristics of the wire are determined by the quality of the manufacturing process
and the materials used, so there is little the installer can do to improve the wire itself once
a particular brand of wire is selected. However, there are many things the installer can do
to maximize the quality of transmission/ reception.

A major concern is the transient magnetic fields that surround the wires and the magnetic
fields generated externally by the other transmission lines in the cable, other network cables,
electric motors, fluorescent lights, telephone and electric lines, lightning, etc. This is known
as EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference) noise. Strong external magnetic fields couple to

8
and induce their own pulses in a transmission line and can literally bury the Ethernet data
pulses. This can and often does prevent reliable data reception at the other end.

Twisted-pair Ethernet uses two primary methods to combat EMI noise:

The first is the use of balanced transmitters and receivers. A differential amplifier is used
so the signal pulse actually consists of two simultaneous pulses going in opposite
directions relative to ground; a negative pulse on one line and a positive pulse on the
other. The differential receiver at the other end detects the total difference between these
two pulses. Since pulses of EMI noise (shown in red in the positive direction and blue in
the negative direction in the diagram) usually produces pulses of the same polarity on
both lines, one pulse essentially cancels out the other at the receiver. In addition, the
magnetic field surrounding one wire from a signal pulse mirrors that of the magnetic
field surrounding the other wire. At very short distance from the two wires, the magnetic
fields are oppose and theoretically cancel each other out. This reduces, but does not
eliminate, the line pair's impact on other pairs of wires in the same cable or in adjacent
cables.

The second is a means of reducing interference from close-by lines, sometimes referred
to as cross-talk ...the term cross-talk is a Telco term stemming from the fact that cross-
talk between adjacent phone lines literally allows one user hear conversations on other
phone lines. The twisting of the line pairs in a double helix configuration is designed to
reduce cross-talk between adjacent line pairs. The double helix configuration
theoretically produces symmetrical (identical) noise signals in each wire. In theory, their
difference, as detected at the receiver, is zero. In practice, it is much reduced, but by no
means eliminated.

[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - Color Code Standards ]

COLOR-CODE STANDARDS

Last updated:

These are the pin-out diagrams for straight through and crossover UTP Ethernet cables.
9
The TX (transmitter) pins are connected to corresponding RX (receiver) pins, with plus
to plus and minus to minus. A coss-over cable must be used to connect units with
identical interfaces.

When straight-through cables are used to connect Ethernet devices, one of the two units
must, in effect, perform the cross-over function. This is the reason that straight through
cables work directly between hubs or switches and NIC cards.... the Hub or Switch is
designed so that their RJ45 Jacks are pre-wired with the transmit and receive pairs
already reversed.

There are two color-code standards in common use: EIA/TIA 568A and EIA/TIA 568B.
These standards derive from TELCO usage and the pairs shown correspond to four phone
lines, each with its own line pair. This same wiring was adopted for LAN standard
Ethernet RJ45 wiring as well. RJ45 receptacle wiring for both standards are shown
below:
Note: Only pairs 2 and 3 are used for Standard Ethernet wiring. Pairs 1 and 4 can be used
for other purposes such as telephones or even a second separate, complete Ethernet
connection.

Straight-Through Wiring Using The 586A Standard

10
The flat wiring diagram, above, shows the 568A color code standard as the wiring for the
PC side of the cable and the same 568A standard for the Hub, Switch or Router side of
things (assuming that the Hubs, Switches or Routers are wired internally to perform the
cross-over function). The illustration depicts the wiring arrangement before insertion into
an RJ45 connector prior to crimping.
Cross-Over Wiring Using The 568A to 586B Standards

The flat wiring illustration, above, shows cross-over cable wiring using the 568A color code
standard as the wiring for the PC side of things and the
11
568B standard for wiring to the other PC. Note that in both cases, all eight wires are
shown but only four are actually needed.

Pins 4, 5, 7, and 8 and the blue and brown pairs are not used in either standard. Contrary
to common tech-lore and what you may have read elsewhere, these pins and wires are not
used or required to implement 100BASE-TX duplexing. In fact, they can be used for
other purposes such as a single line phones or even operating two separate Ethernet
channels, provided care is taken to assure that these wire pairs are isolated from the other
wires.

In practice, making actual RJ45 Patch cables is not physically that simple. The
connections of the pairs to the pins in the RJ45 jack isn't wire

pair by wire pair. Instead, the orange pair of wires are not adjacent and the blue pair is
upside-down. If fact, flattening out the cables in the correct order for insertion into the
RJ45 jack before crimping is by far the most complex part of the job of making twisted
pair Ethernet patch cables.

One cannot use flat-untwisted telephone cable for a network cable that runs any
appreciable distance. One must use a pair of twisted wires to connect a set of transmitter
pins to their corresponding receiver pins. One cannot use a wire from one pair and
another wire from a different pair... See the theory page for the reasons why.

Blue Max designed a RJ45 wiring card so new technicians won't have trouble
remembering how to wire straight-through and cross-over cables. These are business card
size and are printed on both sides of business card stock. One side shows the 568A
standard at both ends (a

regular straight-through cable). There's a fold mark at about 1/3 of the way across the
card. To see the wiring for a cross-over cable, the user simply folds the card to see the
wiring of a cross-over cable with the 568A standard on one end and the 568B standard on
the other.
A sample of the card is shown below, along with a down-loadable .PDF File of the front and
rear of the card along with the front and back of the card in Microsoft Word. These are
designed for printing on Avery Stock 8371.

12
Front of Card

Back of Card

If you'd like a free card, fill in the order form by clicking below and we'll mail you one. Or, if you'd like to
download the Word file and print your own, click the download button

[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - Make It Simple ]

KISS

Last updated:
Note that there are only two unique cable ends in all of the preceding diagrams. They correspond to the 568A
and 568B RJ-45 jacks. A sample of the A standard is shown to the right.

Wires with colored backgrounds may have white stripes and may be called out that way in diagrams seen
elsewhere. For example, the green wire may be labeled Green-White. However, in this article, the
background color is always specified first.

All one needs to remember the proper configuration for cables are the diagrams for the two cable ends and the
following rules:

A straight-thru cable has identical ends.

A crossover cable has different ends.

It makes no functional difference which standard is used for a straight-thru cable. One can start a crossover
cable with either standard as long as the other end uses the other standard. There is no practical or functional
difference which end is which. A 568A patch cable will work in a network with 568B wiring and 568B patch
cable will work in a 568A network. The

13
connectivity is what counts and from a connectivity standpoint, both are identical.

Most professionals prefer to use the 568A standard for straight-thru cables and to start
crossover cables with a 568A end. That way, all one needs to remember is the diagram
for the 568A end, that a straight-thru cable has two of them, and that the green and
orange pairs (pairs 2 and 3) are swapped at the other end of a crossover cable.

[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - Make Some Cables ]

MAKING CAT 3, 5, 5E RJ45 ETHERNET CABLES

Last updated:

An easy way to measure cable is to place marks at 5 and 10 feet from the cable box or
reel. Then, pull the cable off the reel or out of the box to the desired lengths and cut. For
cable lengths between the marks,

estimate the length as a percent of the distance between known marks. One can get a
rough estimate by stepping off the distance, assuming that a normal human foot with
shoes on is about one foot long. If numerous cable of the same length are needed, make
the mark from the box or reel at the exact distance for the cables being made. For

cables longer than 10 feet, pull the cable out to the ten foot mark and then go back to the
box and repeat this procedure until until the desired cable length (rounded down to the
nearest 10') has been pulled out. The remainder is then measured out by estimating or
"walking" it out using the "foot" measurement method.

Routing cable is best done before terminating the ends with RJ45 connectors. This way,
one doesn't have to worry about snagging the RJ45 connector's locking tabs when
running them through walls, floors, holes, cracks and other small spaces. This is
especially true when a cable must be pulled backwards, since the locking tabs will
invariable snag, either breaking the tab and requiring re-termination or pulling the
connector off entirely. Wiring runs should always follow the wiring rules listed at the end
of this article. It's much easier to do the job right the first time than having to go back
and figure out why the connectivity is poor; after the wire has been run. The total length
of twisted pair wire segments between a PC and a hub or between two PC's should not
exceed 100 Meters (329 feet or about the length of a football field) for 100BASE-TX or
10BASE-T cable runs. The maximum length for 1000BaseTX twisted pair is presently
82 feet.

The Tables, below show the minimum and maximums for 10Base2, 10BaseT, 100TX and
1000BaseTX

14
10Base2/10BaseT

Maximum Cable Lengths

Thin-net(Coax): 600

Feet

Twisted Pair: 329

Feet
Fiber 3,000: Feet

Minimum Cable Lengths

Thin-Net (Coax): 1.5

Feet
Maximum Number of

Thin-net: 30

Stations per Cable

Twisted Pair: 2
Fiber: 2

Maximum Number of

1024

Stations per Logical

Network
Maximum Segments 5 Segments only three
of which are populated

Maximum Overall Length

3,000 Feet

of Logical Network

100TX
Maximum Cable Lengths

Twisted Pair: 329

Feet

Fiber :650 Feet

Minimum Cable Lengths

None

Maximum Number of

Twisted Pair: 2

Stations per Cable

Fiber: 2

15
Maximum Number of

1024

Stations per Logical

Network

Maximum Segments

2 Segments
Maximum Overall Length

650 Feet

of Logical Network
1000BaseTX

Twisted Pair: 82 Feet

Maximum Cable Lengths

but 329 feet with

CAT 5E operating at
350 MHz

Fiber: 1640 Feet

Minimum Cable Lengths

None
Maximum Number of

Twisted Pair: 2

Stations per Cable

Fiber: 2
Maximum Number of Stations 1024
per Logical Network

Maximum Segments

1 or 2 Segments

Maximum Overall Length

Media Dependent
of Logical Network

Although this page describes making cables that may be

hundreds of feet long, we do not suggest this method for
cable runs between rooms. The professional way to run
Ethernet twisted pair wiring is to use a patch panel and
RJ45 wall jacks between rooms and patch cables from the
jacks to the

16
PC's or hubs/switches/routers. The cables described herein are patch cables used to
connect to the wall jacks or patch panels that terminate the between room wiring.

Patch panels and RJ45 wall jacks not only provide a finished, professional look but they
provide easy methods of rerouting connectivity, ease of trouble-shooting problems and a
far easier method of terminating long cable runs. Be sure to use patch panels and wall
jacks that have at least the same, or higher, ratings than the cable being used. One cannot
use CAT 5 rated cable with a CAT 3 rated RJ45 jack or patch panel and expect to have
anything better than CAT 3 performance. See our section on punch down tools and
techniques and RJ45 wall jack and patch panel standards for punch down RJ45 jacks and
panel wiring.

After cutting and pulling the cable, strip one end of the cable with a specialized stripper
tool or a knife and diagonal cutters as detailed elsewhere. Depending on the stripper
used, the cable is placed in the groove of the blade (left) side of the stripper and the end
of the cable is aligned with the right side of the stripper. The goal is to end up with the
sheath stripped, leaving about 1/2" of flattened evenly cut wires extending past the cut-
back sheath. The stripper should be turned about 1 1/4 turns and the cable pulled out,
leaving behind at least enough wire to end up with 1/2 inch of evenly-cut, flattened cable
extending past the cut-back sheath. If the tool is rotated more than 1 1/4 turns, the wires
can be nicked and require re-cutting. This means leaving 3/4 or 1 inch of exposed wire so
that it can be trimmed evenly after the wires are flattened and arranged in the right order.
When using a knife and diagonal cutters, be careful to slit only the sheath and not the
wire insulation around the twisted pairs. Carefully slit the cable by an inch or so and
neatly trim around the circumference of the cable with diagonal cutters to remove the
jacket.

Nicks are a No-No, so carefully inspect the wires for nicks. If any nicks are found, cut
the end off and start over. Be sure the cutting blade has been properly adjusted using the
screw at the front of the stripper. Cable diameters and jacket thicknesses vary.

Prepare the pairs for insertion by spreading and arranging them, roughly in the order of
the desired cable end.
17
Untwist the pairs and then arrange the wires in the desired pattern for insertion and
crimping to the RJ45 connector. The ends can be flattened by using the thumb and

forefinger. They can also be flattened by placing them on a flat surface and using a smooth
tool or finger or thumb. Once the desired pattern of flattened wires is in place, trim the ends
of the wires so they are even with each other and about 1/2" long from the shortened sheath
to the ends of the wires. It is very important that the un-stripped (un-twisted), evenly-cut
wires be slightly less than 1/2" long . If longer than 1/2" the ends will "bottom out" at the end
of the RJ45 wire channels

and force the jacketed portion of the cable away from the cable clamping plug. When this
happens, the jacket cinching plug will miss the jacket and the cable will not be securely
connected to the RJ45 connector. If the flattened wires are too short, they will miss the
cutting blades that connect them to the RJ45 connectors. Flatten the cable again after
trimming. There should be little or no space between the wires.

For final pre-crimp inspection, the RJ-45 plug should be held with the locking clip facing
down or away. Push the wire firmly into the plug. Carefully inspect the assembly before
crimping. Once crimped, problems can be resolved only by cutting off the end and
starting

over! Look through the bottom of the plug and make sure the wire on the far left side has
a white background. The wires should alternate light/dark from left to right. The furthest
right wire is always brown. All wires should end evenly at the front of the plug. The
jacket should end just about as

shown in the diagram -- exactly on the line.

[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - How to Crimp ]

HOW TO CRIMP CAT 3, 5 and 5E RJ45 CONNECTORS

Last updated:
 The keys to good crimps are to start with good tools and taking care that the ends of
the wires are trimmed evenly. Then, make only one crimping motion. The last
requirement is usually met by the first since good crimping tools incorporate a ratchet
assembly that forces the user to complete a full crimping motion before the crimp jaws
can be returned to their detent position.

There are actually two simultaneous crimping actions performed by the crimping tool.
One is to force a set of eight teeth through the insulation of the eight wires and through
the wires themselves to form eight separate electrical connections. The secondary
crimping forces a plastic wedge or plunger against the outer sheath that covers the four
wire pairs. If the sheath is cut too far back from the ends of the wires being connected,
the

18
plastic tab of the RJ45 will simply push against the individual covering of the the wire
pairs and will not firmly hold the wires in place. Be sure to trim the outer sheath of the
CAT 3, 4, 5 or 5E wire just enough to allow the individual wires to extend to the end of
the RJ45, while leaving the outer cable sheath to extend past the plastic tab used to hold
the wiring assembly in place. See the diagram below:

Trim the outer sheath of the cable as shown. The sheath should be cut back far enough to
allow the wires (with insulation) to be trimmed to even lengths and extend exactly to the
end of the wire channels of the RJ45. Not too short, but just long enough to press against
the end of the channels as shown. If the sheath and wires don't go into the RJ45 as shown
in the side view, cut the wire back and start over. There is nothing any more frustrating
than a finicky, flaky intermittent wiring connection.

Once the trimming is satisfactory and the individual wires are arranged in the proper
order and flattened out for insertion into the RJ45, push the wire into the RJ45 and make
sure the assembly looks like the side view drawing shown above (except for the fact that
the plastic plunger and connecting blades will not be pressed down yet). Once satisfied
that the assemble is ready for crimping, insert the RJ45 (with wire in place) into the jaws
of the crimping tool (it should only go in one way). Next, firmly press down on the
handles of the crimping tool, keeping the wire firmly pressed into the RJ45. If the correct
crimping tool is used, one must continue to crimp until the process is complete. A one
way ratchet device assures this.

CRIMP ONLY ONCE

If a quality tool is used, the ratchet assembly assures that the crimp was complete.
Attempting to make a second crimp is more likely to bend or flatten pins or crack the
plastic housing than it is to improve the crimp. If it was done correctly with a good tool,
once is enough.
WHAT ACTUALLY TOOK PLACE

The crimping dies pushes two plungers down on the RJ-45 connector. One forces a
plastic plug/wedge onto the cable jacket, firmly clinching it and preventing it from
pulling out of the RJ45 connector. The other seats the "pins," (each with two teeth at its
end) through the insulation and into the conductors of their respective wires.

TEST THE CRIMP

If properly done using quality components and tools, the connector will stay firmly in
place even if pulled apart with up to 25 pounds of force. A firm pull with an average
person's bare hands should not separate the cable and connector. Far better to find out
that the wiring assembly won't hold up before it's put into service than to spend hours
tracing a poor connection once it's in place.

Don't pull too hard when testing the crimp. If the cable is stretched, its characteristics
will change. Just look at the side of the plug and see if it looks like the diagram and give
it a fairly firm tug to make sure it is crimped well.

Advantages of twisted-pair cables over the older thin-wire, coaxial cables include low
cost, ease of termination and reliability and permanence of the connection. RJ-45 and its
ease of installation are one of the reasons coaxial cable is no longer widely used for small
Ethernets. However, the larger reason is that there is no coax 100BaseTX or
1000BaseTX. The world has moved beyond 10Base2's capabilities, so coax is out and
CAT 5, 5E are in. One will still find coax in older installations and this presents a
problem. The problem is that there is no RJ45 equivalent to the daisy chaining of systems
that was possible with coax.

After the connectors are attached, if both ends of the cable are within reach, hold them
next to each other with the RJ-45 locking tabs facing away. Look through the bottom of
the RJ45 connector. If the RJ45s are wired correctly, they are identical in a straight-thru
cable and different in a crossover cable.

Inexpensive test tools are available that claim to test cables. However, most of these only
test the cable in a static, DC voltage environment, not at 10 or 100 MHz. If an
operational network is available, test the cable as part of the network and copy some
large files over the cable and check the results.

20
If the cable doesn't work, inspect the ends again and make sure you have the right cable
and that it is plugged into the correct units for the type of cable.

When many straight-through and cross-over cables are used in a system, it is a good idea
to label or otherwise identify cross-over cables. One way is to use different color cable
when making cross-over cables. Another is to use wiring boots such as those shown at
the right. If all else fails, use a magic marker to place an "X" on both ends of cross-over
cables.

Hours can be wasted testing a system only to discover that the problem was that one of
the cables was a crossover cable when a straight through cable was intended.

[ Top | Contents | Previous | Next - Cat 5 Cabling Rules ]

CABLING RULES

Last updated:

Use quality components and tools to construct cables. As the saying goes, "Buy Quality,
Only Cry Once."

Under no circumstances should cable bends be less than four times the diameter of the
cable. The Cat 5E standard is no bend radius less than 5 inches.

When bundling groups of cables together with cable ties (zip ties), keep the ties snug but
not excessively so. Do not over-cinch them. Keep them snug but don't tighten them so
much that any of the cables deform.

Keep cables away from devices that can introduce EMI noise. Among others, these
include: copy machines, computer monitors, power supplies, UPS units, electric heaters,
speakers, printers, TV sets, fluorescent lights, AC power cables, RF antennas or
transmission lines, copiers, welding machines, radio transmitters, X-Ray Machines, un-
shielded transformers, refrigerator compressor motors, dishwashing machine motors,
microwave ovens, telephones, fans, electric garage door openers, elevator motors,
electric ovens, dryers, washing machines, and shop equipment.

Power cables and Ethernet twisted pair cables don't co-exist well. Do not run Ethernet
cables parallel to power cables. Yes, we know that this is a repeat of number 4 but it is
worth repeating... DO NOT RUN ETHERNET CABLES PARALLEL TO POWER
CABLES!

Do not stretch UTP cables when pulling cable. The maximum force on a cable should be
25 LBS or less.

21
Do not use metal staples or insulated metal U shaped cable clips to secure UTP cables.
Use telephone wire hangers, preferably ones with plastic hangers for the wire.

Never, Never run UTP cable outside a building. It presents a very attractive lightning rod
and will prove dangerous to you and your network's health!

REFERENCES

Charles Spurgeon's Ethernet Web Site

Chris Brenton, Multi-protocol Network Design and Troubleshooting, Sybex Network

Press IBSN: 0-7821-2082-2

ConnectWorld Cable FAQ

David Hess and John Gold; A Practical Guide to Cable Selection, National
Semiconductor Application Note 916, 0ctober 1993

Hubbell Premise Wiring

Keneth M. True; Data Transmission Lines and Their Characteristics,, National

Semiconductor Application Note 806, April 1992

Robert Grover Brown, et al; Lines, Waves, and Antennas, The Transmission of Electrical
Energy, The Ronald Press Company, New York, 1973

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