Textile Finishing - Textile Centre

11/3/2016 TextileFinishingTextileCentre
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Textile Finishing
Finishingisoneoftheessentialprocessesofaprocessingmillwhereallbleached,dyedand
printedmaterialaresubjectedbeforetheyareputonthemarket.Theaimofthetextilefinishingis
torendertextilegoodsfitfortheirenduses.
FINISHINGGIVESTHEFOLLOWINGADVANTAGES:
1.ImprovedappearanceLustre,Whitenessetc.,
2.Improved Feel which depends on the handle of the fabric and its Softness, Suppleness,
Fullnessetc.,
3.ItimprovesthewearingqualitiesNonsoiling,Anticrease.
4.ItgivesspecialpropertiesrequiredforparticularusesWaterproofing,Flameproofingetc.,
5.Itcoversthefaultsoftheoriginalcloth.
6.Itincreasestheweightofthefabric.
7.Itincreasesthesalevalueofthematerial.
8.Itimprovesthenaturalattractivenessofthefabric.
9.Itimprovestheserviceabilityofthefabric.
Hence,Finishingisessentialforatextilegoodbeforetheyareputonthemarket.

TYPEOFFINISH
Finishingmainlyfallsintothreegroups
1.TemporaryFinish
2.PermanentFinish
3.SemiPermanentFinish.
TEMPORARYFINISH
AfinishwhichisnotstableandgoesoffafterthefirstwashisknownasTemporaryFinish.Ifthe
finishing effect in the fabric disappears during subsequent washing and usage then it is called
temporaryfinishing.

Eg.Mechanical:Calendaring,Embossingetc.
Chemical:Starching,Softening(ExceptReactivesofteners)

PERMANENTFINISH

http://textilecentre.blogspot.in/2014/01/textilefinishing.html 1/17
If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and remains unaffected through all the
conditionsofwearandwashingtreatments,thenthefinishissaidtobeaPERMANENTFINISH.
Eg.Mechanical:Sanforising,Mechanicalmillingofwooletc.
Chemical:ResinFinishing,Waterproof,Flameprooffinishetc.

SEMIPERMANENTFINISH
AfinishingonthefabricissaidtobeSemiPermanentFinishifitisstabletomorethan5
to10washesandnotafterwards.
Eg.Mechanical:SchreinerCalendaring.
Chemical:BuckramFinish.

THEMOSTCOMMONLYUSEDCHEMICALS:
STIFFING AGENTS: Starches, Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA), Carboxy Methyl Cellulose
(CMC)etc.,
SOFTENINGAGENTS:Glycerine,TurkeyRedOil(TRO),Cationic,Nonionic,Anionic,
Reactivesofteners,PeEmulsion,SiliconeEmulsionetc.,
WEIGHTINGMATERIALS:Gypsum,SulphateofCaandMg,lead,Zn,ChloridesofMg,
Ba,Zn,Chinaclayetc.,
ANTISEPTICAGENTS:Alum,Boricacid,Phenol,Boraxetc.,

CLASSIFICATIONOFFINISHES
RESINFINISH

Resin finishing often known by various fancy terminologies is an important process of textile
processing. Resin finishing quite often called Wash & Wear Finish Anti Crease Finish
Crease Resistant Finish Durable Press Finish And Wrinkle Free Finish Is gaining
importancetoday.

Resinsarecrosslinkingagents,whichformcovalentbondonreactionwithOHgroupsof
cellulosicmaterialsinacidicmediumatapHof34.AnumberofchemicalsrightfromPolyviny
Chloride, Poly Vinyl Acetate to Formaldehyde based resins such as DMU, DMEU, DMDHEU
havebeendevelopedandused.

MECHANISMOFCREASEFORMATION:
CottoncellulosechaincontainsOHgroupsinbothAmorphousandCrystallineregion.Thereare
HydrogenBondsbetweentheOHgroupsofthemolecularchains.

structure+of+cellulose+chain
When a load is applied on to the cotton fabrics, the cellulosic chain in the fibre bends and this
bending remains permanent since the cellulosic chains are Inelastic. This bending of the
cellulosechainsofthefibreundertheapplicationofloadcausestheformationofcrease.

In another theory, the Hydrogen bonds formed between the OH group of adjacent cellulose
chain in the crystalline region are broken (being a weak bond of force) when a cotton fabric is
foldedandpressed.

ThebreakageoftheHydrogenbondsinthecrystallineregionandtheformationofNewhydrogen
bondsintheamorphousregioncausestheformationofcreases.

METHODTOPREVENTCREASEFORMATION
The method of minimizing the formation of creases involves the reaction of the OH groups of
adjacentcellulosemacromoleculeswithsomelinkingagents.

Theintroductionofcrosslinkingimpartsdimensionalstabilityandelasticitytothefibrousmaterial
and makes it crease resistant and crease recoverable. The most commonly used cross linking
agentsarenothingbutResins.TheresinsreactwiththeOHgroupsofcelluloseformingCross
linkswhichisdurableandhenceincreasestheCreaseRecoverytherebydimensionalstabilityof
thefabric.
Resinfinishinggivessomeadvantagesandsomedisadvantagestothefibrousmaterial.

Advantages:
1.ItimprovestheCreaseResistanceandCreaseRecoveryproperty.
2.Itreducestheshrinkageofthefabricduringlaundering.
3.Itimpartsasmoothandquickdryingproperty
4.ItimprovesResilience,HandleandDrapingqualities.
5.ItimprovestheweightandDimensionalstability.
6.Itincreasesthestrengthofrayonsinbothwetanddrystate.
7.Itgivesresistancetodegradationbylightandlaundering.
8.ItimprovesthefastnesstoLightandWashingofmanydyestuffs.
9.ItpreventstheIntermolecularSlippageinthefibrecore.
10.ItbecomespartiallywaterproofandRotproof.
Disadvantages.
1.ItdecreasestheTensilestrengthandTearstrength.
2.ItdecreasestheAbrasionresistance.
3.ItgivesanUnpleasantodour.
4.ItgivesunwantedHarshandStifffeel.
5.Itturnsthefabricyellowafterchlorinebleaching.
Incorporationofpropersoftenerandcatalystinthepadbathcanreducethelossinthe
abovementionedpropertiesofthefabric.

STEPSINVOLVEDINRESINFINISHING
NormallycrosslinkingagentsareappliedbyPadDryCuremethod.

TheapplicationofUreaFormaldehyderesinconsistsofthefollowingsteps.
1.Impregnationofthefabricinthepreparedresinsolutionbypadding.
2.Drying.
3.Curing at higher temp. by using dry heat to polymerise the resin or and cross link the
molecularchains.
4.WashingandSoapingtoremovetheunfixedresin.
5.Drying,softeninganddryingonstenter.
PREPARATIONOFRESINPRECONDENSATEE.g.(DMDHEU)
TheamountofDMDHEUaretobetaken1050gpl,whichgivestheoptimumeffect.
In this process Urea is dissolved in Formaldehyde solution (40%) at RT for 46 hours with
periodicalstirringandwithadditionofAmmoniaandthetemperatureshouldnotexceed35C.

Impregnationoffabricinprecondensatesolution.
Beforeimpregnation,thematerialshouldbescouredandbleachedforbetterpenetrationofliquor.
Dyedandprintedfabricscanbetakendirectly.

Theconcentratedsolutionofresinprecondensateisdiluteddependingonthetypeoffabricand
tothis,acidcatalystandotheradditivessuchaSoftenerandPEemulsionareadded.Thefabric
ispaddedbyusingeithertwoorthreebowlpaddingmanglewithanexpressionofabout80%at
RT.Afterpadding,thematerialisdriedinstenterwithminimumtensionat70to80C.

Higher temperature of drying leads to Migration of finish causing loss in tensile strength and
abrasionresistanceoffabric.

CURINGOFIMPREGNATEDMATERIAL.
Afterdrying,thematerialiscuredat120C150Cfor25minsinahightemperaturestenter
machine.CrosslinkingandPolymerizationtakeplaceduringcuringprocess.

WashingandSoaping
Aftercuring,thematerialshouldbewashedinopenwidthorropeforminadilutesolutionofsoap
andsodaash.Thepurposeofthiswashingistoneutralizetheresidualacidityandalsotoremove
anyuncombinedreagentwhichcausesundesirableeffect.Thefabricmaybewashedwith12gpl
ofanionicwettingagent(TRO)and24gplofsodaashat5060Cfor10mins.

Softeninganddrying
After washing, the material is rinshed in waster containing softening agent. Then finally it is
stenteredinordinarystentertodryandtogetevenwidthoffabric.
HEATSETTING
Themostgeneralreasonforheatsettingistoachievethedimensionalstabilityofayarnorfabric
containing thermoplastic fibres. In order to understand what is required, it is helpful to consider
the stress in individual fibres. During drawing, spinning, weaving or knitting, and finishing
processesthefibresaresubjectedtoextension,twistingandbendingforcesthatleavesignificant
stressesinthefibres.

As a result, any subsequent heat treatment or washing produces stress reductions (relaxation)
that show up as shrinkage or change of shape (for example, of loops in knitted goods). The
objectiveofaheatsettingprocessisthereforetheachievementofadesiredstressfreeformof
the fibres making up a textile product. It is rarely possible to achieve perfect setting but an
acceptabledegreeofstabilitytogarmentmaking,wearandwashingcanbeattained.

Although the experiment is a hypothetical one, it reflects what happens in practice. The
production stresses get locked in until heat treatments during dyeing, for example allow
partial relaxation and then heat setting provides the conditions required for stabilising the
structure,withlittleornostressleftinthefibres,eventhoughtheyhavebeentwisted,stretched
andbent.

The temperature reached in heat setting must obviously be below the melting point of the
polymer, but interchain bonds must be broken and significant losses in tensile strength are
observed. The nature of the changes in structure and properties is complex, but thoroughly
describedbyStatton.

SETTINGONSTENTERS
The pin stenter is an ideal machine for fabric setting, providing complete control of width and
length.Sometimesforexample,forknittednylonshirtingfabricsrequiringmaximumstabilityto
washing stretching in both directions is desirable. In other situations the best handle and
stability require maximum relaxation. Experiment is required to find the conditions giving the
optimum result. The heating time to achieve a setting temperature of 200 C depends on the
fabricthicknessaswellasairvelocity,butwilloftenbeatleast20seconds.Ifthefabricisbeing
dried and heat set in one run, this means that the stenter speed will be low as the fabric
temperaturewillnotriseuntildryingisalmostcomplete.Monitoringthefabrictemperatureisvery
desirable in these circumstances. When the setting temperature is reached, however, the time
requiredisveryshort.Coolingbeforeremovingfabricfromthepinsisessential.

Temperaturesof200C(ormore)inaircanproducesignificantoxidationofsomefibresnylon
especially may be seriously yellowed and the colour not easily bleached. Antioxidants
incorporatedinthefibrearehelpful,butinjectingsteamintothestenterchamberhasbecomethe
common solution to the problem. Most of the oxygen is thereby excluded and setting is
accelerated. In the case of blends with natural fibres the setting temperature will usually be
limited to 150 C (wool) or 180 C (cotton blends to be finished white), to control the extent of
damageandyellowing.Whenfabricscontainingbulkedyarnsaresetthetemperaturemustagain
bekeptlowenoughtoavoidthecompletelossofbulk.Attheselowertemperaturesthesetting
efficiencywillbereduced,evenwhenlongertimesaregiven.Thealternativeofsettinginsteam
maybethebestsolution.
Thepositionofheatsettinginthefinishingsequencedependsonthefabricstructure,howclean
itis,andthedyeingmethod.Settingafterscouringisrecommendedwhenafabricisheavilyoil
stainedorifsettingmakessizeremovaldifficult.Settingafterdyeingmaysignificantlymodifythe
colour.SomerecommendedsettingtemperaturesareshowninfollowingTable
finishing2

Effectsofsettingonproperties
The reduction in stress produced by setting can lead to major changes in fabric handle. A
woven nylon fabric, before setting, may have quite a stiff handle (especially in the wet state)
because of the high interyarn frictional forces. The wet crease recovery will therefore be poor.
Relaxationofstressesinsetting,reducingyarntension,canalmosteliminatethefrictionalforce
andleadtolowshearingstresses,softhandleandgoodrecoveryfromwetcreasing.

However,ifthesamefabricweretobeheatsetundertensionthesechangeswouldbemuchless
noticeable, and fabric handle may even be stiffer because of fibre adhesions. Structural
changesinmostfibresduringheatsettingleadtoareductioninaccessibilitytodyes,especially
thelargermolecules.Itisthereforeessentialthat,whensettingiscarriedoutbeforedyeing,the
uniformityofheatingisgood.

Polyester fibre accessibility to dyes is settingtemperature sensitive. At 200 C it is

reduced,butat220Cdyeuptakeisusefullyincreased.Dyeuptakebynylonfibresisalso
increased by setting in steam. The shrinkage of unrestrained fibres during heat treatment is
usefulinthattheheatsettingofpolyesterstapleblendfabricsproducesamajorimprovementin
pillingproperties.Thefibreendsnotonlyshrinkintotheyarnstructure,buttendtolockthefibres
in place. As stated earlier, however, the primary effect of setting is the stabilisation of yarn and
fabrictosubsequentheattreatmentandwashing.

WEIGHTREDUCTIONOFPOLYESTER
Theweightreductionofpolyesterfibresinfabricsderivesfrompatentsheldinthe1950sbyICI
and Dupont and is therefore as old as the largescale production of polyester fibre. The aim of
weightreductionistoproducefinerfibresinordertoalterthehandleandthevisualpropertiesof
afabric.Thisaimisdocumentedbythefactthatthisfinishingeffectisalsoreferredtoas silk
finish. A lowering of breaking strength is sought as a secondary effect, which leads to a
reduction in snag susceptibility as well as, for yarn fabrics, of pilling. In the case of Japanese
Shingosenarticles,microfibres(whichthemselveshavethefinesttitresof0.1dtex)arealkalized
using the padsteam process to achieve a weight loss of 35%, thus obtaining extremely soft
polyesterarticles.

Thechemistryof weightreductionisbasedonthesaponificationofthepolyestertoglycol
and terephthalate at the surface of the fibre with lyes, whereby the terephthalic acid formed
neutralizes sodium hydroxide solution and so leads to a steady fall in the pH of the treatment
bath.Asageneralruletheprocessmakesuseofanaqueoussodiumhydroxidesolutioninmore
or less long liquor. The rate of weight reduction, of course, increases with liquor concentration
and temperature. The process temperatures lie in the range 9130C and treatment times,
dependingonliquorconcentrationandtemperature,from14hours.Therateofweightreduction
isstronglyinfluencedbythestateofthefibrematerial,suchthatwheneverexcessliquorisused
inordertoachieveaprescribedweightreduction(e.g.10%),colourmatchingmustbecarriedout
specific to the material, bringing with it a series of associated difficulties not discussed further
here. To overcome these difficulties it is necessary to use only sufficient sodium hydroxide
solutionasisrequiredinstoichiometrictermstoachievetheprescribedweightreduction(100%
theoreticalconversion,forlongliquorprocesses,thelowliquorconcentrationleadseithertotoo
long a dwelling time or requires the use of highly effective accelerators. However, these
accelerators,aswithallotherknowncommercialaccelerators,havethedisadvantagethattheir
useslightlyyellowsthegoods,whichisadisadvantageforwhitegoods,pastelcoloursandprints
on a white ground. Attempts to remove this yellow discolouration using oxidation and/or a
reductionhavesofarfailed.

The use of higher temperatures in processes with long liquor and consequent relatively long
dwellingtimesleadstoadisproportionatelossofstrength.Whenweightreductioniscarriedout
at low temperature (95C), as well as an excellent weight reduction of approx. 20%, an almost
parallel progression can be observed of the maximum tensile force to the highest possible
maximum tensile force, which should fall due to the increase in fineness corresponding to the
weight reduction. This behavior can be interpreted in terms of the orientation of the molecules
being higher in the outer region of the fibre, thus making a greater contribution to overall fibre
strength.Atahigherweightreductiontemperature(130C),ontheotherhand,sodiumhydroxide
solutiondiffusesintothefibrecoreandtherehydrolysesthemoleculesrelevanttothestrength.

CALENDERING
Textile fabrics are taken through the process of calendering to improve their aesthetic
appearanceandhandle.Calenderingisathermomechanicalprocess,i.e.itinvolvestheuseof
heatandmechanicalpressure,butnochemicals.Theobjectsofcalenderingarelistedbelow.
a)Toupgradethefabrichandandtoimpartasmooth,silkyfeeltothefabric.
b)Tocompressthefabricandreduceitsthickness.
c)Toimprovetheopacityofthefabric.
d)Toreducetheairpermeabilityofthefabricbychangingitsporosity.
e)Toimpartdifferentdegreesoflustretothefabricand
f)Toreducetheinterlacingyarnslippage.

Incalendering,thethreadsofthefabricareclosedtogiveittherequiredgloss(lustre)orfeel.Anordinarycalenderconsistsofa
seriesofhardandsoft(resilient)bowls(rollers)placedinadefiniteorder.Thesoftrollermaybecompressedcottonorpaper.
Thecalendermayconsistof3,5,6,7or10rollers.Thesewouldrespectivelybecalled3bowlcalender,5bowlcalender,6
bowlcalenderandsoon.Thesequenceofrollersisthatnotwohardrollersareincontactwitheachother.Thepressureand
heatappliedincalendaringdependsonthetypeofthefinishrequired.Inatypical7bowlcalender,(e.g.aFarmerNorton
Calender)thearrangementofthebowlsisasgiveninthefigure.
Thecalendaringeffectproduceddependsuponthefollowingfactors.
i)Moisturecontentinthefabric
ii)Thenumberofbowlsofthecalenderused
iii)thecompositionofthebowls(steelcotton,cottoncotton,steelpaper,cottonplastic,etc)
iv)Arrangementofbowls
v)Temperature
vi)Pressure
vii)Fabricspeed
Generally,thecompressible(soft)bowlsaremadeofcotton,wool,linenpaperorflaxpaper.Thehardmetalbowliseitherof
chilledironorclosegrainedcastironorsteel.Ironbowlsaremadewithahighlypolishedhardsurfaceandareheatedfrom
insidebysteamorgasandprovidetheglosstothecalendaredfabric.
Calendarswithmorethanthreebowlscanbeusedas swissing,chasingor frictioncalendars,to

producedifferenteffectsonthefabric.Suchcalendarsarecalleduniversalcalendars.
SWISSINGEFFECT
Swissing simply means running the cloth through all the nips of a 10bowl universal calender
andtheneitherplaitingorbatchingthefabricthethreadingofthefabricisthesameasshownin
the above figure. This operation closes the interstices (the spaces in between the interlacing
threads) in the cloth and gives it a smooth appearance. A 10bowl calender used for swissing
givesaverylargeproduction.Priortocalendering,asofteningandfillingagentshouldbeapplied
(as the finishing mix) to produce lustrous fabric. In swissing, all the bowls rotate at the same
speed.
Inthisoperation,ifacoldcalenderisused,moderatesmoothnessandaregularsurfacelustreof
thefabricareproduced.Ahotcalender,wherethemetalbowlsareheatedbysteamorgasfrom
theinside,producesgreatersmoothnessandamorelustrousfabricsurface.

When all the bowls of a universal calender are used, the fabric acquires a smooth appearance
andglosswithoutthehighglazethatissocharacteristicofafrictioncalenderedfabric.
FRICTIONCALENDERFINISH
For producing this effect, the top four bowls of a 7bowl universal calender are lifted up,
disengaging or disconnecting the contact between the third and the fourth bowls, so as to use
onlythetwoorthreebottombowls.Whenthefirsttwobowlsaloneareused,thearrangementis
atwobowlfrictioncalenderandifthefirstthreeareuseditisathreebowlfrictioncalender.The
latterarrangementisshowninthefigurebelow.

Thefrictioncalendaringoperationproducesahighdegreeoflustreononesideofthefabric(this
isthesidethattouchestheironbowl)italsoresultsintheclosingupoftheinterlacingthreads.

Inthisprocess,thethird(top),polished,chilledironbowlisheatedwithsteam.Asafurthermodification,thisbowlisrotatedby
meansofspecialgearwheelssuchthatitssurfacespeedisdoublethatofthefabricandthoseofthelowertwobowls.
Asavariation,thetopbowlmayberunat1timesthespeedofthelowestbowl,withthemiddle
bowlrunningatan intermediate speed. Due to the differential bowl speeds,africtionaleffectis
exertedonthefabricsurface.
Fabricsaregenerallygivenastarchfinishbeforecalendering.Thestarchcontentandmoistureinthefabricaffectsthe
calendering.Ifthemoisturecontentinthefabricismorethan20%,thestarchstickstothecalenderbowlsandifitislessthan
15%,sufficientlustreisnotproducedandthefabricacquiresahardfeel.Thefinaleffectinfrictioncalenderingisquitesimilarto
thatseenandfeltinanironedgarment.
A3bowlfrictioncalenderisgenerallyrunatabout30m/min.Athreebowlcalender,workingwithoutfrictionisrunataround60
m/min,whileasevenbowlcalenderisrunaround80m/mintheactualspeedisdeterminedbythekindoffinishdesiredonthe
fabricandbythenumberofbowlsused.Whenalightfinishisrequiredhigherspeedsthanthosementionedabovemaybe
selected.Somesevenbowlcalendersarerunatspeedsof130230m/min.
CHASINGCALENDER
In a chasing calender, the cotton fabric passes normally through the nips of a 7bowl calender,
then over the chasing rollers. The cloth is then fed again into the cotton nip of the calender so
thatitisledbackintothemachine.Thisisrepeatedseveraltimes,suchthateachlayerofcloth
liesoneoveranother.Thisisshowninthefigurethatfollows.Chasinggivestheclothathready
linenappearanceandaspecialhandle.
CHASINGCALENDERWITHWATERMANGLE
Inavariation,awatermangleprecedesthecalenderandthemangledfabricispassedthrough
the calender a number of times, as explained above, and finally either batched or plaited, as
showninthefigureattheright.RollNo.3(fromthebottom)isthepowerdrivenroll.Thealternate
rolls(1,3and5)aregenerallygearedtogethertopreventslipping.
calander+textile+finishing

Whenafabriciswatermangledunderhighpressure,thethreadsarewellflattenedandthe
spacesbetweenthemareclosedifthisfabricistakenforstarchfinishinginastarchmangle,a
flat,bondedstructureandabetterstarchedfinishisobtainedwithalowernumberofstarch
mangleruns.
SCHREINERCALENDER
Theschreinerfinishcanbeimpartedtotextilefabricbymeansofaschreinercalender.This
operationgivesasilklikebrilliancetocottonfabric.Thisiscarriedoutchieflyoncottonlinings,
sateenandprintedfabrics.Whenproducedonmercerisedfabricitgivesthenearestpossible
resemblancetosilk.
The+arrangement+of+rolls+in+a+two
bowl+schreiner+calender
Thesilklikefinishisduetothefinelines(520/mm)engravedonthesteelrolleroftheschreinercalender.Alargenumberof
linesarethusembossedonthecloththatispassedthroughthecalender.Theengravingissocutonthesteelrollofthe
calenderthatthelinesareatasmallanglewithrespecttothedirectionsofthewarpandweftthreadsinthefabric.
Inweftsateen,thebestfinishesareobtainedwiththelinesatanangleofabout20totheweft
and in the direction of the twist. Ordinary plain weave cotton fabric is also greatly improved in
appearance and handle by a schreiner finish in this case, the calender has a steel roller with
coarselines(67/mm)engravedonit.

Atypicalschreinercalenderhasstrongframescarryingtwobowls7.5cm(indiameter),thetoponebeingmadeofspecial,fine
grainedsteelitisengravedwiththerequirednumberoflinesandisgasheatedfromtheinside.Thebearingsofthisbowlare
cooledbywater.
The upper roller is in contact with the lower cotton bowl when the machine is running and is
separated while not in use in order to keep the cotton bowl from any damage. The top bowl is
fixed while the lower one is moved up or down. The required pressure is exerted by hydraulic
ramspositionedunderneaththebearingofthebottombowl.Veryhighpressureisexertedonthe
fabricwhileitpassesthroughthenip.

Thecalenderisprovidedwithareliefvalveallowingthebowlstobeseparatedinstantly.Skewingarrangementisprovidedfor
thebearingofthelowerbowlbywhichitcanbesetatanyangletothetoproll.Anenhancedbrilliancecanbeobtainedby
usingtheskewingarrangement.Atypical2rollschreinercalenderhas325cmwiderolls,whichcanexertapressureofupto
140tonnes.
ANTISHRINKFINISH
Shrinkage
Shrinkage is the contraction in the dimensional of the fabric due to usage. Cotton fibre suffers
from2maindisadvantagesofcreasingandshrinkingduringsubsequentwashing.

Creasing is overcome by the Resin finishing where as the shrinking is prevented by a special
finishing known as sanforising and the machine used for that purpose is known as zero
zeropreshrinkingmachine.
Howcottonshrinks?
Cotton has the property of swelling in water and this effects shrinking. Also the mechanical
stress,strainandtension,duringspinningandweavingetc.,whenreleasedcausethefabricto
shrink.
The cotton fabric, when put in water, swelling takes place and rearrangement of internal forces
takes place. The fibres will become free from tension and it comes to the original tensionless
state.

Thesearethereasonsforshrinkage.
Incaseofafabric,thewarpyarnsareundermuchstrainduetointerlacementthanthe
weftyarns.Hence,whenafabricisallowedtoshrink,thewarpyarnshrinkagewillbemorethan
weftyarn.

To overcome this, the fabric is extended in width wise to some extent in the stenter machine
duringthefinishingprocess.Thenitissubjectedtothepreshrinkprocess.

Mechanism
ThemechanismorprincipleadoptedtoproduceshrinkageisToplacethefabricontheextended
surfaceofarubberblankerrepresentedbytheconcavesurface.Whenthetensionisreleasedon
theblanket,itshrinks,Thefabricwhichisinclosecontactwiththerubberblanketattheconcave
surfacehasnowayotherthanshrinkingalongwiththeblanket.Thisprincipleisusedtoproduce
pershrinkingfinishwiththehelpofsanforisingorZeroZeromachine.

Theamountor%ofshrinkagedependson:
1.Thetension/stretchontherubberblanket.
2.Thicknessoftherubberblanket.
3.Diameteroftheroller.
Generallythreesizesareavailable.

ThicknessofBlanket Ifshrinkageoffabricbefore
tobeused Sanforisingis
0.275 68cm/m
0.4 811cm/m
0.45 1115cm/m
TheamountofshrinkagealsodependsonDamping.
The optimum moisture content of cotton and viscose fabric prior to compressive shrinkage
treatmentinthemachinemustbe2025%.Atlowermoisturecontentdifferentdeformationofthe
fabricmayresult.Thedeformationoftherubberblanketis622%andthefabricshrinkageis3
7%.Ifthepressureexertedbythemetalshoeid27atm.Theshrinkageobtainedis36%.With3
atm.Pressure,therubberblanketisdeformedto15%whilethefabricshrinks6%.

MachineDescription

Thisisamechanicalmethodofshrinkagecontrol.Theclothisfedintothemachinethroughthe
feedrollersofamangle.Itisusedtoholdbacktheclothandonlyallowthefeltblankettocontract
totherequiredamount.Otherwiseovershrinkingoftheclothoccurs.

FromthefeedrollerstheclothpassesbetweenSprayerstomoistenthecloththerebymakingthe
yarn soft and plastic so that it can be easily compressed by the blanket. The moistening is
assisted by a steaming unit called skyer. Then the cloth passed through a short clip stenter to
controlthewidthofthecloth.

The cloth is passed to the blanket over the feed roller and is placed in firm contact with the
stretched surface of the blanket by electrically heated shoes. If cold shoes are used, less
shrinkagewouldresult.

Theclothincontactwiththestretchedsurfaceoftheblanketispassedtothemainsteamheated
cylinderofthepalmermachinesothatwhenthestretchedsurfaceoftheblanketiscontractedby
reversalofcurvature,theclothalsoiscontracted.
Themaincylinderofthemachinemaybeeither60or84indiametertothematerialforwhichit
isintended.

Afterpassingaroundofthedrumofthepalmermachine,thefinishedmaterialmaybepassedon
toanauxiliaryfinisher.Ithasanadditionalpalmerunit.

Itcanbeused

1.Whenbothsidesofthematerialaretobefinalisedalikeor
2.Whenadditionalshrinkageisrequired.
If the additional palmer unit is used, the range is called as Duplex other wise it is called as
Simples.

Thereisablanketcenteringdevicetokeeptheblanketinastraightpathonthecylinderandalso
anindicatorforgivingthetensionontheblanket.

The electrically heated shoes are lifted from the blanket automatically when the machine is
stoppedtoeliminatescorching.Beforleavingthesanforiser,thefabricshouldbethoroughlydried
otherwiseitwillelongate.

Properuseofthesanforiserenablesshrinkageonlaundering(residualshrinkage)tobereduced
to0.75%orless.

After coming out of the felt calendaring unit, the fabric is guided to the plaiter which plaits the
fabricintoatrolley.


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