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4072 1/4
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0614 General Directions
1 2 4 14
3 The Pattern Cutting/Marking
13
5 SYMBOLS ADJUST IF NEEDED BEFORE CUTTING: AFTER CUTTING:
GRAIN LINE Place on Make adjustments before placing PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry Transfer markings to WRONG side
7 8 6 15 straight grain of fabric pattern on fabric. iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing of fabric before removing pattern.
parallel to selvage TO LENGTHEN: washables or steam-pressing non- Use pin and chalk method or
Cut pattern washables. dressmakers tracing paper and
9 PLACE SOLID LINE on between wheel.
fold of fabric. lengthen or CIRCLE your cutting layout.
shorten lines. To Quick Mark:
CENTER FRONT OR PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Spread pattern
10 BACK of garment.
evenly, the Layouts. Snip edge of fabric to mark
amount needed notches, ends of fold lines and
NOTCHES FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold center lines.
and tape to
17 DOTS paper.
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
A B C 18 FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
Pin mark dots.
11 12 CUTTING LINE TO SHORTEN: fabric RIGHT side up.
At lengthen or
16 LENGTHEN OR shorten lines, FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
SHORTEN LINES make an even
19 20 SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm) pleat taking up
DESIGN FABRICS: Use with nap
layouts
unless otherwise stated is included but amount needed.
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS. Tape in place.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
1-BODICE FRONT AND 11-BODICE FRONT -C,D When lengthen or shorten lines are SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI- not given, make adjustments at

A B
SLEEVE -A,B 12-BODICE BACK -C,D SIZE PATTERNS. lower edge of pattern. If layout
shows a piece
Mark small a. SELVAGE

CROSSWISE FOLD

SELVAGE
2-BODICE BACK AND SLEEVE -A,B 13-FRONT NECK BAND -C,D arrows along both

3-FRONT NECK BAND -A,B 14-BACK NECK BACK -C,D


Sewing extending past
fold, cut out all
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
SEW garment following Sewing Directions. pieces except design. Fold fabric
4-BACK NECK BAND -A,B 15-UPPER SLEEVE -C / PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches. piece that crosswise with
extends.


SLEEVE -D RIGHT sides
5-FRONT AND BACK MIDRIFF STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
together, and cut SELVAGES
6-TIE END 16-LOWER SLEEVE -C PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so along fold (a).
seams will lie flat. Open out
D 7-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK -A,B,C 17-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR fabric to single Turn one fabric
TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below. SELVAGE
thickness. Cut layer around so b.
8-SKIRT SIDE FRONT AND SLEEVE -C extending arrows on both
SIDE BACK -A,B,C piece on layers go in the
18-UPPER TIER -D RIGHT side of
C same direction.
D fabric in
9-SLEEVE BAND -B 19-MIDDLE TIER -D Place RIGHT sides
position together (b).
10-SKIRT BAND -B 20-LOWER TIER -D Trim enclosed Trim corners Clip inner Notch outer shown.
SELVAGES
seams into layers curves curves

Espaol
Cutting pattern printed
side down
See
SPECIAL 2B 58" 60" (150CM) 8
SELVAGES
SELVAGE A VESTIDO
Layouts

SINGLE THICKNESS
CUTTING WITH NAP USE PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
pattern printed 1 8 6
NOTES ALL SIZES 1A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA
side up 2 TODAS LAS TALLAS
7 7 16
1B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING FOLD 5B 44" 45" (115CM) 16 TODAS LAS TALLAS
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE WITH NAP
SIZES 22 24 6
B VESTIDO
CONTRAST BANDS AND TIES USE PIEZAS 1 2 7 8
A DRESS USE PIECES 3 4 5 6 9 10 SELVAGE 2A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 SELVAGES TODAS LAS TALLAS
3 44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
1A 44" 45" (115CM) SELVAGE 2B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA
WITH NAP 10 10 3 6 TODAS LAS TALLAS
WITH NAP 3
ALL SIZES 13 SELVAGES
4
ALL SIZES 5 5
15
BANDAS CONTRSTANTES Y TIRAS
SELVAGES 11 8 8
9 9 USE PIEZAS 3 4 5 6 9 10
8 8 6
5 FOLD SEL.
3 44" 45" O 58" 60" (115CM O 150CM)
3 12 7 14 7 5
15 CON PELUSA
2 3 1 TODAS LAS TALLAS
7 7 FOLD
FOLD
A,B ENTRETELA
SELS.
4 5 FOLD A,B INTERFACING
CROSSWISE

USE PIEZAS 3 4 5
USE PIECES 3 4 5 5
4 22" A 25" (55CM A 64CM) ADEHSIVA
SELVAGES 4 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE TODAS LAS TALLAS
FOLD

4
ALL SIZES 3
6
1B 58" 60" (150CM) 3 5C 58" 60" (150CM) SELVAGE C VESTIDO
WITH NAP 8 8 1 55 SELS. WITH NAP USE PIEZAS 5 6 7 8 11 12 13 14 15 16
ALL SIZES ALL SIZES PIEZA 17 SE CORTA EN EL ELASTICO
2
C DRESS 16 15

SINGLE THICKNESS
7 7 4 5A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA
USE PIECES 5 6 7 8 11 12 13 14 15 16 TALLAS 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
FOLD PIECE 17 IS CUT OF ELASTIC SELVAGE 13 SELVAGES
5B 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA
5A 44" 45" (115CM) 6 13
SINGLE THICKNESS

6 TALLAS 22 24
WITH NAP 11 5
8 8 5C 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 5
B DRESS SELVAGES
13 SELVAGES 16
15 16
TODAS LAS TALLAS
USE PIECES 1 2 7 8 16 7 7 12
8 8 14
2A 44" 45" (115CM) 11 8 8 SELVAGE(S) / SELS.= ORILLAS
2 1 15 FOLD SELVAGE FOLD= DOBLEZ
WITH NAP 6
7 7 12 7 7 SINGLE THICKNESS= ESPESOR SIMPLE
ALL SIZES 14 CROSSWISE FOLD= ESPESOR TRANSVERSAL
FOLD CUTTING LAYOUTS CONTINUED ON PAGE 2
5 FOLD SELVAGE VER LA PAGINA 2

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
English/Spanish/ 3

Espaol
4072 2/4
D VESTIDO
D DRESS USE PIEZAS 5 6 11 12 13 14 15 18 19 20
USE PIECES 5 6 11 12 13 14 15 18 19 20
C,D INTERFACING 6A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA
6A 44" 45" (115CM) TODAS LA TALLAS
WITH NAP 13 SELVAGES USE PIECES 5 13 14
SELS.

CROSSWISE
ALL SIZES 6B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA
SELVAGES 6B 58" 60" (150CM) 6 15 5 TODAS LA TALLAS
WITH NAP 13 11 55
13 7 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES 14

FOLD
6 11 15
20 20 20 19 19 14 ALL SIZES 13 C,D ENTRETELA
20 20 20 19 19 14 18 18
18 18 12 USE PIEZAS 5 13 14
5 12
SELS.
FOLD 7 22" A 25" (55CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
FOLD
TODAS LA TALLAS

Sewing Directions Throughout the instructions you will see Threads Tips from our
friends at THREADS Magazine. 1
STAY-STITCHING
DRESS A, B, C, D
FABRIC 1. STAY-STITCH bodice front and back neck edges.
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
KEY
Sewing procedures ITALICIZED in Sewing Directions are defined BACK
below:
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin. Threads Tip
Dont straighten the seam or stretch or bend it as you sew
EDGE FINISH- Stitch 1/4 (6mm) from edge, turn under edge FRONT
around the curves or on the bias. It causes necklines to flare
along stitching and stitch, zig-zag, or overlock/serge raw away from the body. Sew curves as if the fabric is a stiff
edges. inflexible paper using your whole hand to control the direction
Threads Tip of the fabric through the arc of the curve.
To edge finish a facing- use any of the edge finishes above
OR for a more professional finish- sew interfacing to facing
with RIGHT sides together, trim to 1/8 (3mm), turn, and
EDGE FINISH
press flat before sewing to garment. If interfacing is fusible, 2
the last step will fuse the interfacing to the facing.
EDGE STITCH- A straight stitch sewn as close to the edge 2. GATHER bodice front between notches.
as possible.

GATHER- stitch along seam line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE


seam line, using a long machine-stitch.

BODICE A, B
GATHER
INTERFACING- Pin interfacing to WRONG side of fabric. Cut 3
interfacing diagonally across corners that will be enclosed 3. Stitch bodice front to bodice back at shoulder seams. Stitch
with seams. underarm seam to large dot; back-stitch at dot to reinforce
For fusibles- Follow manufacturers directions. seam. Clip to dot.
Threads Tip
Preshrink fusible interfacing before cutting out pattern pieces.
Place interfacing in hot water for 20 minutes (or until water is
cooled), spread interfacing flat to dry.
INTERFACING
Threads Tip 4. SLEEVE HEM A- NARROW HEM lower edge of sleeve.
5
Your interfacing will not show through your garment if you use 4
interfacing the color of your skin.
5. SLEEVE BAND B- Stitch ends of sleeve band. Fold sleeve
band in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together, having
NARROW HEM- Press under hem allowance on edges as raw edges even; press. Baste.
instructed in sewing directions.
To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease.
Press. 6
Stitch hem in place.
6. On OUTSIDE, pin band to lower edge of sleeve, matching
NARROW HEM underarm seams and having raw edges even. Stitch. Press
Threads Tip
seam toward sleeve, pressing band out.
When pressing narrow hems, spread a sheer presscloth on
your ironing board. Then lay the edge you want to press over
the presscloth, leaving four inches (10cm) or more of press
cloth showing. Align a piece of card stock (a file folder works
perfectly) along the fold line. To hold the card stock in place,
pin through it into the ironing board pad. 7 BODICE AND SLEEVES C, D
Fold the press cloth over the card stock edge and press the
edge. The press cloth holds the tiny hem while you iron it 7. Stitch bodice front to bodice back at shoulder and side
without burning your fingers. seams.

STAY-STITCH- Stitch 1/2 (1.3cm) from cut edge in direction of


arrows. This stitching stays in permanently to prevent stretching
STAY-STITCH
on curved edges. (Shown only in the first illustration).

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
English/Spanish/ 3

SLEEVES C 20. With RIGHT sides together, pin band facing to band,
4072 3/4

8. GATHER top of upper sleeve between notches. Stitch


20
21 matching centers back, shoulder seams and small dots.
Stitch front and back neck edges pivoting at small dot. Trim
8 9 underarm seam. and grade seam allowances; clip curves.
Threads Tip
Before turning fabric to inside, press the seam allowances
9. On OUTSIDE, center narrow braid trim over upper and lower
open for a smoother finished edge.
placement lines on lower sleeve having trim ends even with
raw edge. Center wider trim over middle placement line 21. Turn facing to INSIDE; press. Pin pressed edge of facing over
having trim ends even with raw edge. Stitch along center of seam, placing pins on OUTSIDE. Pressed edge extends 1/8"
trim. (3mm) below seam.
22 23

10. Stitch underarm seam of lower sleeve. 22. On OUTSIDE, stitch close to seam, catching in pressed edge
10
With RIGHT sides together, pin upper sleeve to lower sleeve of facing and removing pins as you come to them. Baste
matching underarm seams. Stitch. Press seam toward upper lower edges.
11 sleeve.
UPPER
SLEEVE 23. TRIM VIEW A- On OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of flexible
11. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on lower edge, forming casing. lace trim along placement line on front and back neck band,
folding out fullness at corners and having lace ends even with
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
edge of fabric. Stitch close to straight edge of trim.
Stitch close to inner edge of casing, leaving an opening to 24
insert elastic.
13 24. TRIM VIEW C- On OUTSIDE, pin one long edge of narrow
LOWER braid trim 1/4" (6mm) from front and back neck edge and
SLEEVE 12. Cut a piece of elastic for each sleeve the length of elastic center front seam folding out fullness at corners and having
guide for sleeve. lace end even with edge of fabric. Pin one long edge of
Insert elastic through casing; adjust to fit. narrow trim to band 1/4" (6mm) from seam, folding out
Stitch ends of elastic together securely. fullness at corners and having lace even with edge of fabric.
12 Pin one long edge of wider braid trim centering between two
Stitch opening closed.
rows, folding out fullness at corners and having lace even
with edge of fabric. Stitch along center of all trims.
13. On OUTSIDE, center narrow trim over sleeve seam turning
under and lapping at underarm seam. Stitch along center of CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS
trim. 25
25. NARROW HEM both long edges of tie end and end without
14 SLEEVES D
notch.
14. GATHER top of sleeve between notches. 26
Stitch underarm seam. 26. Apply INTERFACING to WRONG side of front and back
NARROW HEM lower edge of sleeve. midriff sections.

ARMHOLE C, D 27
15
15. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold garment WRONG side out
with armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides together, pin 27. With RIGHT sides together, pin tie end to midriff front
sleeve to armhole edge with center small dot at shoulder matching small dots, having raw edges even. Baste.
seam, matching underarm seams and remaining small dots. Pin tie ends out of the way.
28
Pull up gathering stitches to fit.
To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin
threads. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/8"(3mm) from first 28. Stitch midriff front to back at side seams.
stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching. Press
only the seam allowance. 29

29. With RIGHT sides together, pin midriff to bodice matching


16 17 CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS centers, placing side seams at large dots for view A and B
and matching side seams for view C and D. Pull up gathering
16. Apply INTERFACING to front and back neck band sections. stitches to fit. Baste.
30
Stitch shoulder seams of front and back band sections.

30. TRIM VIEW C- On OUTSIDE, pin one long edge of narrow


17. With RIGHT sides together, pin band to garment, matching braid trim 1/4" (6mm) from midriff front seam, turning under
centers back, shoulder seams and small dots. ends at side seams. Pin center of narrow braid trim 1/4"
(6mm) above lower seam allowance, turning under ends at
Stitch front and neck edges pivoting at small dots.Trim seam; side seams. Pin wider trim centering between narrow trim,
clip curves and to small dots. Press seam toward band. turning under ends at side seam. Stitch along center of all
trims.
32
18. Pin center front seam of front neck band matching small dot.
18 19 Stitch below small dot. Back-stitch at dots to reinforce seam. 31 CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR A, B, C
31. Stitch side seams of midriff facing sections. On INSIDE, pin
19. Stitch seams of neck band facing same as for neck band. RIGHT side of midriff facing to WRONG side of bodice
Stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) away from outer edge of neck band. Trim matching centers and side seams. Stitch. Trim seam.
seam allowance to 1/4" (6mm), clip curves and to small dots.
Press under along stitching. 32. Press midriff and facing down, pressing out bodice. Baste
raw edges.

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
English/Spanish/ 3

38
4072 4/4

33 SKIRT A, B, C

33. FOR SKIRT C- On OUTSIDE, pin center of narrow braid trim 38. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt band to lower edge of
over placement lines on skirt front ending at small dot. Pin skirt matching centers. Stitch. Press seam toward garment
center of wider trim along center front ending at small dot. pressing band out.
Stitch along center of all trims.
39
SKIRT D

UPPER 39. Stitch side seams of upper tier sections. GATHER upper
TIER
edge.

40
UPPER
TIER
34

CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR A, B, C 40. Stitch side seams of middle tier sections. GATHER upper
MIDDLE
edge. With RIGHT sides together, pin upper edge of middle
TIER tier to lower edge of upper tier matching centers and side
seams. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch. Press
34. Stitch skirt front to side front.
seam toward upper tier.
SKIRT
FRONT

SKIRT 41
SIDE
FRONT
UPPER
TIER

41. Stitch seams of lower tier sections. GATHER upper edge.


NARROW HEM lower edge. With RIGHT sides together, pin
MIDDLE
TIER upper edge of lower tier to lower edge of middle tier placing
35
seams at small dots in front and remaining seam at center
back. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch. Press
LOWER seam toward middle tier.
TIER

SKIRT
BACK
SIDE
35. Stitch skirt back to side back.
SEAM
Stitch skirt front to skirt back at side seams. GATHER upper
edge of skirt. CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS
42
42. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to midriff at waistline
SKIRT
SIDE seam, matching centers and side seams. Pull up gathering
BACK
stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch.
Press seam toward midriff.
36 Tie ends in a bow when wearing.
HEM A, C

43
36. Press up hem.
EDGE FINISH the raw edge. Slip-stitch hem in place. 43. TRIM VIEW A- On OUTSIDE, pin scalloped edge of lace trim
along lower edge of sleeve, turning under and having ends
meet at underarm seam. Pin scalloped edge of lace trim
along lower edge of skirt, turning under and having ends
meet at one side seam. Stitch close to straight edge of trim.
37 Slip-stitch ends together invisibly.

SKIRT BAND B
37. Stitch side seams of skirt band sections.
Press up hem. 44
44. TRIM VIEW C- On OUTSIDE, pin one long edge of wider
EDGE FINISH the raw edge. braid trim 1-1/2" (3.8cm) above lower edge of skirt turning
Slip-stitch hem in place. under and lapping at one side seam. Pin one long edge of
narrow trim 1" (2.5cm) above wider trim turning under and
lapping at one side seam. Pin center of wider trim 1" (2.5cm)
above narrow trim covering ends of trim on skirt front, turning
under and lapping at one side seam. Stitch along center of all
trims.

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.

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