Fusing process is one kind of alternative method of fabric joining which is vastly

used in attaching interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cant be

imagined without fusing process. As its importance, this article has presented a
detail discussion on fusing process with its classification and defects.
Types of fusing process in garment manufacturing
1. Reverse Fusing
2. Sandwich Fusing
3. Double Fusing

1. Reverse fusing:
In this process, the fabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed and the part
consists of resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of garments is spread on the
resonated part of fabric and fusing is done there. This is called reverse fusing. In this
process, the area of interlining is comparatively small than the fabric of apparel, as a
result proper spreading is difficult here.
2. Sandwich fusing:
Generally, fusing is done by continuous fusing machine where the heat is applied
from both sides of fabric. In this process, two pairs of fabrics are fused i.e. the
two interlinings are placed between or in the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the
heat and pressure are not applied properly then four layers may be joined due to the
effect of striking back during fusing. By using this process, the production can be
increased but needs more time. It may have unsatisfactory in fused garments.
3. Double fusing:
In this process, two types of interlining are joined with the garment fabrics in a step
during fusing. There is needed to control the temperature during fusing and it must
be able to set the interlinings parts and garment parts properly. This type of fusing is
generally done in collar and the front part of jacket.
Defects of Fusing Process:
There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained in the
below:
1. Striking back:
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have
the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are
not controlled properly during fusing so that the resin is passed through the lower
part of fabric. It is called striking back.
2. Striking through:
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have
the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are
not controlled properly during fusing so that the resin is passed through the upper
part of fabric. It is called striking through.

The interlining which can be fixed with

the garments components by applying heat and pressure for
certain period of time is called fusible interlining.

Characteristics of Fusible Interlining:

Fusible interlining contains the below properties:

 1. Here, the fusing is done by using perfect temperature so that there is no
hampering of fabric color.
2. The maximum temperature of fusing should not be more than 175
3. The minimum temperature of this interlining should not be less than 110
4. The minimum temperature should be applied during fusing otherwise it
will create problem in the bonding between garments fabric and interlining
during washing or end using of garments.
5. The bond of fusible interlining should not be opened or hampered due
to washing or dry cleaning.
6. After completing this type of interlining it should contain the stiffness and
drape properties of garments.
7. The color of fusible interlining must be white or transparent, but it can be
different in color according to the fusing requirements.
8. This type of interlining should be done as that the color of garment cannot
be changed due to the color of interlining.
9. The interlining should not be toxic to the human body during the end use
of garments.

Interlining Selection before Garment Dyeing

In case of garments dyeing, garments to be dyed after garment
manufacturing. As a result, interlining should be selected very carefully for the
garments. Because, during garment dyeing, performance of interlining used in
the apparel may be destroyed due to the effect of chemicals and temperature
used in the dye bath. To avoid such kinds of problem, interlining should be
selected by following some parameters of it which are deeply discussed in this
article.

Properties of Interlining for Garment Dyeing:

Interlining for the garments to be dyed should have following properties:

1. Interlining used in the garments should take-up equal amount of dye and
chemicals as the garment fabric takes-up.
2. Due to garments dyeing, bond strength between interlining and garment
fabric should be undisturbed or unaffected.
3. Handle properly of the interlining attached areas of the garment should be
as per expectation.
4. During garment dyeing, resin present in the interlining my pick-up dye
molecules. Hence, color depth problem should not arise in the interlining areas
of the garment with the remaining areas of the garments.

In the readymade garment manufacturing industries, fusible interlining is

mostly used for making the garments. The fusible interlining is composed of three
types of materials. Those are-

1. Base fabric,
2. Base fabric finishing,
3. Resin coating.
During garment dyeing, the role of those three materials of
fusible interlining have discussed in the below:

1. Base fabric:

For manufacturing the cotton garments, fusible interlining made from the cotton
base fabric is always preferred. Because, during garment dyeing, garment fabrics as
well as interlining base fabric, if both are made from cotton, then the dye pick-up will
be equal. As a base fabric, cotton woven fabric is used as a base fabric for the
interlining. Then, those non-woven base fabric should have the following properties:

If any resin is used as binder for the non-woven fabric production, should not
create any problem to dye penetration.
Due to dyeing effect, non-woven base fabric should not change its original
dimension during garment dyeing.
Due to garment dyeing, properties of non-woven base fabric should be
unaffected.

2. Base fabric finishing:

If cotton fabric is used as base fabric for the manufacture of fusible interlining then
normally the base fabric is finished with resin. Dimethylol urea(DMU) derivative base
resin is normally used for cotton base fabric finishing which creates problem during
garments dyeing. If the base fabric is mechanically shrunken and low formaldehyde
resin is used for base fabric finishing, then the problem of dye penetration will be
reduced.

3. Fusible resin finishing:

Different types of resin coating are used for manufacturing the fusible interlining.
After attaching the fusible interlining into the garments, if the garments are dyed
then sometimes problem may arise into the fused areas of the apparel. During
garments dyeing, due to the effect of dyeing temperature and chemicals used in the
dye bath and longer period of agitation onto the garment, splitting of interlining
fabric and apparel fabric may occur by breaking the bonding between those two
fabrics.

The resin is used for the resin coating of the fusible interlining should be hydrophobic
type and melting temperature of the resin should be more than 140C to avoid such
kinds of problem. Polyethylene and polyolefin types resin works well in garments
dyeing.