‘Transaction Men’s Shirt Pattern Design Part I: Prediction of Pattern Parameters from 3D Body Measurements A.P. Chan, J. Fan, and W. Yu. Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowluun, Hong Kong Abstract: Part of this two part series of papers has shown that existing pattern drafing methods are much less than adequate for drafting pattems to fit a wide range of body morphology. To solve this problem, this paper considers Predicting shirt pattern parameters ftom 3D body measurements. Two prediction models are reported in the paper. One is established using multiple linear regression and the other using the Artificial Neural Network (ANN). It shows that the AINN model can predict the patter parameters very accurately, but the linear regression model has the advantage of showing the relationship between the pattern parameters and the apecifie body measurements. This wotk is believed to ‘be important tothe implementation of apparel mass customization. LIntroduction Today there are numerous developments of 3D body scanners in the world, all aiming at achieving better rarment fit for diverse consumers. However, optimum fit cannot be achieved without 8 good pattem drafting method, which can make use of the 3D body measurements effectively. Considerable research has also been carried out on developing novel pattern drafting methods. Brackelsbery {1} introduced body angles in addition to the length and circumference measurements for drafting pattems of Basic Bodies and Skits, the new method created better fit ‘on some body shapes, but not on others. Guzzuolo otal [2] correlated an experimental planar pattern withthe female body measurements obtained by a photographic method, Shen and Huck [3] proposed a method of developing bodice pattem from the photographic ‘measurements of body form. However, the photographic methods are not commonly used anymore due to the many limitations in comparison with the 3D body scanners. Masuda et al 4] divided the bodice patter into ten blocks and predicts the gap between the blocks, which is important to fitting, from body surface measurements There have also been many developments in 3D apparel CAT systems [6-10]. These methods first generate 3D garments on digital mannequins, then obtain female (Received 15 July, 2002; Accepted 4 February, 2003) 2D pattems by flattening the 3D garments. "The reliability of these systems relies very much on the draping model, which requires considerable improvement due to the complexity of garment draping. Despite of the considerable past research in this area, existing patter drafting methods are stil less adequate in creating pattems fit to the diverse body morphology. To solve this problem, it is important to establish models to accurately predict the pattern parameters from the 3D body measurements so that the pattems are fit for diverse wearers In this second part of the two part series of papers, pattem prediction models for men’s dress shirts are established using multiple linear regression model and Artificial Neural Network. 2. Nomenclature G1-G52: Fifty-two pattern parameters defined in Fig. 1 of Part [ofthe two paper series Ue values ofthese parameters for the 19 men’s shirts are manually measured as deseribed in Part Fig. 1) B,—Bg: Body measurements from the Tecmath 3D body scanner. By: Body height By» Head height By: Neck height Bye Distance seapulacverticul bb Neck diameter 328 SEN’ GAKKAISHI (#3) Vol.S9, No.8(2003) (62)(63) aateane 022 Giseeue 192012 Sede 18 Sir amie 16.06 Stiraneste'* clbesas Sietete ees Fig 1 Shirt pattern, Mid neck girth ‘Neck girth Cross shoulder over neck Cross shoulder Left shoulder width Right shoulder width Left shoulder angle (*) Right shoulder angle (°) Chest width Bust points width Neck front to waist Bust points around neck Bust points to neck on the left Bust points to neck on the right Chest girth Chest band Midriff girth Cross back width Back width Neck to underarm back Back length Back length over shoulder Blade on the left Back Length Over Shoulder Blade on the right Distance armpit-waist Waist girth Braise w hip on the left Waist to hip on the right Waist to hip/ thigh on the lef Waist to hip/ thigh on the right High hip girth Hip girth Arm length to neck back on the left ‘Arm length to neck back on the right Arm length to neck on the left Arm length to neck on the right Arm length on the left Arm length on the right Upper arm length on the left Upper arm length on the right Forearm length on the left Forearm length on the right Arm hole girth on the left Arm hole girth on the right Upper arm girth on the left Upper arm girth on the right Elbow girth on the left Elbow girth on the right Forearm girth on the left Forearm girth on the right Wrist girth on the left Wrist girth on the right Upper arm diameter on the lef : Upper arm dtameter on the right SEN’ GAKKAISHI (48) Vol.59, No.8(2003) 3293. Multiple linear regression model In multiple linear regression, the independent variables are the 3D body measurements of the 19 male subjects and the dependent variables arc the shirt pattem parameters of the 19 men’s shirts, which were made to fit the 19 male subjects. ‘The stepwise variable selection method in the SPSS program was applied to select the body measurements, which give the best prediction to the pattem parameter. ‘The stepwise variable selection method is commonly used for model building in multiple linear regression. It first selects the independent variable, which gives the best prediction ‘Table 1 Prediction equations for pattern parameters of front piece. Parameters Maximum error yy. Maximum in Front Equation R* of prediction Percentage (em) Pattern (em) of error Gl -G1=529+034B, -0.058,,—009B,, 052 0.40 5.79 70 G2 G2=041+040B,-0.198, +0368, 0.73, 0.78 792 9.0 =032B,, GR G3 =0.5640.34R,+0.15R—0.97R,, 0.86 0.46 108s 40 GS G5=7.99+ 0.408, +0.058,-0.108,, 0.61 092 163656 G5 G6 =36.49+0.12B,-1.238,-0.71B,, 0.66 213 189180 -015Be, G7 G7=11.48 + 2.51B, ~ 2.008, 0.61 438 2085 21.0 GB G8=2.79-0.96By +0.90B 5 +0.14B, 0.68 0.78 228 340 —0.15B5p G9 G9 = 384042 +0.29B,~0.27Byy 0.83 149 444530 G10 G10=-1.04+ 033845 +0238, +0.128,, 0.90 1.66 310250 GI G11=-0.17+0.11B45 +0.27B,5 ost 1.16 74 150 G38 G38=2.494+0.12B,, +007), +0.22B,, 0.91 un 2947 58 G39 G39-= 7.03+ 0.18By, +0.26B,5 +0.10B,. 0.80 093 242538 = 020B 45 G40 G40 = 14.26 +0.308, +0.818,,-1.132,, 0.91 207 78829 +0.97Bsy Note: a) Maximum error of prediction ™ the difference between the actual measured values and predicted value ) Mean the mean of the actual measured values c) Maximum percentage of error = maximum error of prediction divided by mean It then continues to enter independent variables, which can best improve the model performance, into the model. After 2 variable is entered into a model, any variables already in the model that no longer significant predictors are removed. Stepwise variable selection is a combination of forward and backward lummnation. ‘his means that the variables, whose importance diminishes as additional predictors are added selection 330 SEN'1 GAKKAISHI (#850) VoL59, No.8(2003) or removed by the SPSS program, are removed. Table 1 shows the prediction equations for the pattern parameters of the front piece. As can be seen, ‘most of the prediction equations have relatively high correlation coefficient with the maximum predictive error of less than 10.0%. The prediction equations for pattern parameters G6, G7, G8 and G11 have relatively lower comtelation coefficients and higher predictive errors. The (64)ow correlation coefficients for G6 and G7 may be due to the fact that the scye curves are drawn by free hands of the tailors. The low correlation coefficients for G8 and experiences G11 are still acceptable because these pattem parameters ‘Table 2 Prediction equations for pattern parameters of back piece. only define style lines, which are less important to shirt fitting, These style lines are normally drawn by expert's Parameters Maximum error 4). Maximum in Back Equation Re ofprediction (ny Pereentage Pattern (em) : of error Gi G12 =1.05-0.24Bjp +0.02B+0.03B,, 0.79 0.29 177 160 —O15Be5 Gis G13 = -2.91+0.058, +0318, +029R,, 0.85 0.88 was 37 ou GIA = 42.35 -2.19B, 0.6485 40.17, 0.85 139 40199 Gis GIS =1.53+0.15Bjy +0.23B ip ~L.08B. 0.87 155 257 72 +0.29By, Gis G16 = 5.40-0.75By, +0.69B), +0.08Byg 0.71 0.66 228 290 0.16 Bs, Gu GIT =-3.00+ 0.44845 +0.30B,-0318, 0.81 1.64 446037 cory G18=1.96 1 0.198) +0.21By,-0.18,, 0.90 1.36 293246 a GID = 5.170.138) 40.118 +0.07Bsy 0.65 0.86 806 110 Ga G42 = 0.080.108, +0.17By7 +0425 0.94 1.04 276238 oa G43 =10.16-+0.09B, -0.28B,5 +0318 0.90 0.49 210423 Gu G44 =15.18+0.35B,-0.20By +1.11B 0.88 1.96 B46 27 Table 3 The prediction equations for patern parameters of yoke pie Parameters a ‘Maximum error Maximum in Yoke Equation Ri ofprediction —“(y._Percentage Pattern (em) of error GAL G31= 7.094 0.178, +0.098,, +0502, 0.87 0.56 2120 «27 = 0.65B 55 G32 G32 0.50+0.058,5+0.488,-0.098, 0.50 059 sol 8 G33 G33 4.4340.138, + 0.0384 0.0984, 0.81 022 82 26 G34 G34 = 48.63-0.34B, -0.138,,-0.18B,, 0.82 105° na 92 0.55B55 G35 G35 = -454+0.048,, +0,15B, +0.05Biy 0.61 0.23 0.76 300 + 0.018, 3737 = 73740370328, 02s 0.68 89 7.6 G51 G51 3.68+0.068,, +0.178,, +0468, 0.58. 1.92 un 78 G52 G52=8.87+0.09B, -0.328,+0.03B, 0.57 040 121733 (6) +0.07B ye SEN'I GAKKAISHI(#50) Vol59, No.8(2003) 381Table 2 shows the prediction equations of the pattem parameters of the back piece. The prediction equations for the pattern parameters are also good with low predictive errors, except for pattern parameter G12, Gi6 and G19, Pattern parameter G12 defines the seam between the bottom of the yoke and the top of the back piece, ‘The measurement varied only from 0.90 to 2.30 om. ‘The 16.0% of maximum predictive error translates only 10. very small £0.26 em. The less accurate prediction of pattem parameters G16 and GI9 are still acceptable because they only affect the style line at the side seam and bottom hem. Table 3 shows the prediction equations of the pattern parameters of the yoke piece. The maximum predictive errors of these equations are generally less than 0,60 cm except for pattern parameter G37 and 51. G37 affects the armhole and GS1 affects the shoulder seams. Although the percentages of the predictive errors are less than 10.0%, they may still be too high to produce high quality shits 4, Artificial neural network model To improve the prediction of pattern parameters from body measurements, a_—three-layer bback-propagation neural network [11,12] has been applied to establish the model. From the 19 pairs of data, 15 pairs were used as training pairs and 4 were used as eroas-checking pairs so as to ensure that the derived model can provide a generalized mapping of the input and output pattem, Training of ANN stopped when the sum of errors of the checking data set started to increase, Table 4 lists the model parameters, ‘Table 4 Parameters of artificial neural network model tivation function at the 1 Activation funtion atthe p(y _ output layer lve Activation function a the l hidden layer SO-T Input parameters 58 body measurements Output parameters 96 shirt pattern parameters Number of hidden units 58 Number of training pairs 15 Number of cross-checking pairs _ ‘The ANN model trained based on the above parameters was found to provide very good prediction of the shirt pattem parameters from the 3D body measurements obtained from the body scanner. Fig. 2 compares the predicted pattem parameters and the actually measured ones for the parameters” not associated with curves. It can be seen thatthe squared correlation coefficient was 0.9986 with a mean prediction error of 3.7%. The prediction of pattern parameters associated with the curves of the shirts paticrn was found to be leas securate Fig. 3 compares the predicted and measured pattem parameters for G6-GI1, G14.G19, G35-G37, G41 and G45, which are associated with the curves. As can be seen, the squared correlation coefficient was 0.9931, Its mean prediction error was 6.9%. This is understandable as the curves were drawn by experience during pattem drafting, there could be higher inconsistency by the tailor, who creates these patterns ‘Apart from the curves atthe armhole, these curves only affect the style lines, the less accurate prediction is therefore still acceptable, As for the curves at the armhole, the curves defined by the predicted pattern parameters. may even be better as they are more consistent than the curves drawn by the tailors 100 y= 0.9912x + 0.1068 8 R? 0.0088 7 i?) 3 2} ° ——— 0 2 4 «60 100 Predicted (em) Fig 2 Predicted vs measured for shirt pattern parameters not associated with curves. 60 | YE099r4«-+ 00107 é R¥=0.9901 24 B 20 § 2 S10 ° a ° 20 “0 60 Predicted (em) Fig 3 Predicted vs measured for pattern parameters associated with curves 332 SEN'I GAKKAISHI(#S0) Vo159, No.8(2003) (66)5. Conclusions This paper confirmed that there was high correlation between the two-dimensional shirt patterns and the Prediction models established using multiple linear regression can predict important pattern parameters ‘with predictive error of less than 10%, The prediction ccan even be more accurate using the artificial neural network model, which has less than 3.7% accuracy for Comparing Multiple Linear Regression and Artificial Neural Network, the former can provide clear information on how each body ‘measurement relates to each pattem parameter, however the prediction is less accurate. With Artificial Neural Network, the detailed relationship between the body measurements and pattern parameters are not shown, bt it gives hetter prediction of the pattern parameters from the body measurements, The established models can be used to build computer software for generating shirt patterns based on body measurements from 3D body scanners. The ‘methodology used in this study for men’s shirt can also be applied to other garments three-dimensional body mieusureanents noncurved lines Acknowledgement The authors would like to acknowledge The Hong Kong Polytechnic University Tuition Scholarship for Research Postgraduate Studies. References 10. 11. 12, Brackelsberg P, FarrellBeck J, Winakor G, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 5 (1) 34, (1986) Gauzzuolo E., DeLong M., Lohr S., LaBat K., and Bye E,, Applied Ergonomics, 23 (3) June, 161, (1992) Shen L and Huck J., International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 5 (1), 6, (1993). Masuda T, and Imaoka H., Journal of the Research Association for Textile End-Uses, 39 (1), 46, (1998) Heisey F., Interface 85: Proceedings of the Fourth Symposium on Human Factors & Industrial Design in Consumer Products, May 20, (1985), Heisey F, Brown P, and Johnson RF, Textile Research Journal, Dec., 731, (1990). PAD, PAD Pattetn Making System, Apparel International, April (1990.) 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