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Baja map side 1/15/08 9:44 AM Page 1

The Borderland
What is geotourism all about?

SUNSET ON SANTA CATALINA ISLAND


RALPH LEE HOPKINS
According to National Geographic, geotourism sustains
or enhances the geographical character of a placeits
environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well-
117 116 115 I N T E R M I N G L I N G F L AV O R S U N D E R G L O R I O U S L I G H T 112 being of its residents. Geotravelers, then, are people who
To live along the Baja California-U.S. like that idea, who enjoy authentic sense of place and
border is to be part of a shared history care about maintaining it. They find that relaxing and
Old West towns transformed into having fun gets betterprovides a richer experence geo.tour.ism (n): Tourism
neon cities mixed with extreme cli- when they get involved in the place and learn about that sustains or enhances the
Mexicali mates and disparate cultures. You can what goes on there. geographical character of a
Grab a seat at the El Acueducto bar in feel this sensation in Mexicalis Chinese Geotravelers soak up local culture, hire local guides, place its environment, culture,
Phoenix
B
CALIFORNIA Hotel Lucerna and ask for the world
famous tomato juice and clam juice restaurants where sweet and sour Asian buy local foods, protect the environment, and take pride
in discovering and observing local customs. Travel-spend-
aesthetics, heritage, and the
well-being of its residents.
cocktail born here. About 28 miles flavors intermingle with spicy Mexican
south of Mexicali, along the Laguna aromas. We borderlanders have adopt- ing choices can help or hurt, so geotravelers patronize
Salada, find Olivarera Italo-Mexicana, a establishments that care about conservation, preserva-
EOceanside Salton ed the fashions and customs of the
company that produces extra-virgin olive tion, beautification, and benefits to local people.
Sea oil from some 260,000 olive trees. globalized world without losing our
Tijuana own rich culture. We live in modern
Try a Caesar salad in the town where EEscondido
cities yet endure severe desert condi-
Caesar Cardini created the world
tions in a land that demands a strong
Map Key
famous dish. Tortas Wash Movil, Tecate Rancho Los Chabacanos
housed in a white stall next to an old Start your day with a donut or pastry Wash your cares away in the temaz- character and a defiant disposition. Archaeological site
car wash, is well-known for savory 33 from Bakery el Mejor Pan de Tecate, cal, a steam bath used by ancients Just by traveling along the Mexicali- Festival
tortasmesquite-grilled beef sand-
wiches similar to hamburgers. Satisfy
where the savvy and hungry line up
daily to wait for fresh-baked bread.
for healing and purification. Hike the La Chinesca Tijuana highway and looking up at
33
nature trail. Savor gourmet Mexican Mission or church
your sweet tooth with dulce de leche, Tour the Cuauhtmoc Moctezuma Chinese immigrants arrived in the the Rumorosa mountains you feel the
walnut marzipan, and other Mexican Brewery and sample cervezas in the
food at this hacienda lodge. early 1900s and created a flourish-
light-headedness of the agesthe
Museum 111W
specialties at Mercado El Popo. beer garden. ing Chinatown that rivaled that of
major North American cities. Taste same rocks that the poet Lawrence Natural or scenic area
El Centro the unique blend of Mexican and Ferlinghetti called a fantastic mountain Other point of interest
San Diego E
E
Chinese flavors for yourself at one
of the 100-plus restaurants. landscape of nothing but stone with Urban area
Chula 8 bright sun flames close over. In some Protected Areas
Vista Calexico E
Yuma
E E ways we Baja California borderlanders
UNITED STAT
ES Mexicali G
B Ciudad are the ultimate gold-seekers, nomads
Biosphere reserve
Imperial Beach
E
MEXICO Baja Prog, Morelos who have, in this region, discovered National park
Tijuana E
E
G Tecate La Rumorosa Festivals of the Sun Benito
2 Puebla Juarez destiny under transcendent light. Other protected area
Hermosillo -- Gabriel Trujillo Muoz, author, Lambert Conformal Conic
La Joya
Mexicali
E
San Antonio E Standard Parallels 24.5 and 30.5
del Mar Laguna San Luis SCALE 1:1,400,000
EPlayas de Rosarito Valle de las Palmas Salada Ro Colorado LA RUMOROSA
0 mi 25

El Compadre Delta 0 km 25
Cerro Gordo JULIO RODRGUEZ R.
labazas L.A. Cetto Vineyard
K
Punta Descanso 4199 ft
1280 m Ca
Arts and Crafts Corridor Puerto Nuevo Puerto Nuevo Las Take a tour, walk the gardens, or Festivities of the Guadalupe Victoria
E
3
Peruse shop after shop of Baha Descanso Lobster Festival picnic at the vineyard of Mexicos Holy Cross
handcrafted pottery, baskets, San Jose
de la Zorra
largest wine producer. Visit the
Luis B. Sanchez
Tucson E
rugs, and furniture, all locally tasting room and linger over a glass 2
made and sold at bargain prices. Francisco San Antonio of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, or the
La Mision Zarco Necua highly acclaimed Nebbiolo.
1 e La Casa de Doa Lupe
ARIZONA
Vadalup

All-organic wines, cheese, and jams Ejido Luis E. Johnson


y

1857 CONSTITUTION
lle

Ensenada 32
a

Guadalupe Valley Wine Region NATIONAL PARK


Gu

ol o EL PINACATE Y
32

C
Tour Baja Californias oldest winery, San Antonio

ra
Santo Toms, and sip the award-win- de las Minas La Huerta A GRAN DESIERTO DE ALTAR
S I

Ojos Negros L

do
ning 2002 Cabernet with dinner in a Punta San Miguel
former wine-aging warehouse. Walk off Ensenada Real del Castillo Ruta del Rio Hardy T
E Wetlands on the Pacific Flyway for A
E R

your filet by the street-side sculptures Taste and buy the many local BIOSPHERE RESERVE

Peninsula of
Fiestas de la
of locally born Alfonso Arambula, who Isla Todos Santos Baha Vendimia handmade cheeses of this region migratory birds and home to the R UN
ITE
Sonoyta

Baja
Baja
endangered Yuma clapper rail and DS
Todos Santos
R A

fashions objects out of natural and D TAT


ES
recycled materials. Punta Banda yellow-billed cuckoo. Go canoeing, ME
La Bufadora EManeadero camp along the river, or join in com- E XIC
O
S
K
3 Isla Pelcano 3957 ft El Pinacate
munity-based restoration efforts. 1206 m (volcano)
E
J U

COLORADO RIVER DELTA


Isla Montague Golfo de Santa Clara GEORGE STEINMETZ / CORBIS

Uruapan Santa Catarina


Boca la Baja
R Ejido
A R

Heroes de la T Nayarit
Punta Santo Tomas
Santo Tomas Independencia
Santo Toms Vineyard
ALTO GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA
E Z

Source of grapes for

California
the Ensenada winery Baha Adair
Punta San Jose 1 Y DELTA DEL RO COLORADO
El Sasabe
Lazaro Cardenas BIOSPHERE RESERVE 8
Baha
San Vicente La Choya Nogales E
ADOBE GUADALUPE, GUADALUPE VALLEY
Puerto San Isidro La Choya
Nogales
E
JULIO RODRGUEZ R. Puerto Penasco
Erendira (Rocky Point)
5

Agua Zarca
Rafael
San Baha San Jorge Los Molinos
Colonet Santa Clara San Felipe Roca Consag Saric
ON THE PENINSULA, THE DREAM IS REAL

F
Highest point in Shrimp Festival
Baja California
31 San Felipe E
31

Altar
Baha San Felipe
Cabo Colonet
orget about calling this 800-mile-long
K
Ruben Jaramillo Picacho del Diablo 10157 ft
Baha Colonet (Devils Peak) 3096 m
Valley of the Giants
peninsula Baja or "Lower" California. This
SI

SIERRA SAN Punta Estrella Youll need to crane your neck to UPPER GULF OF CALIFORNIA AND COLORADO CALIFORNIA ARIZONA NEW
La Tubutama
ER

PEDRO MARTIR see the tops of these giant cardon RIVER DELTA BIOSPHERE RESERVE MEXICO
Camalu
was California, named that way on maps
RA

cacti that tower over the desert Wetlands and estuaries provide refuge for

S
U
NATIONAL PARK Atil ME .S.
Laguna Percebu landscape of this natural reserve. the endangered Gulf of California harbor
long before the first mission bells pealed BAJA XIC
SA

Algodon porpoise and other endemic species.


O
CALIFORNIA
N P

GU (SE
O
Birdwatch in Montague and Pelicano
Vicente Guerrero over San Diego. Isla
E
SONORA

LF A O
Islands. Tour Roca Consag by boat. Altar Oquitoa Guadalupe
EDR

CHIHUAHUA

OF F C
ENLARGED
Magdalena The early explorers may have put this peninsu-

CA O R
FAR LEFT

LI TE
de Kino E
O

FO Z )
Sierra San Pedro Martir la on the map, but they failed miserably in their BAJA

RN
MA

CALIFORNIA
San Quintn

I
National Park Cuauhtemoc
R

A
SUR
search for treasure. Thank goodness they didnt

O
GUADALUPE VALLEY WINE REGION Lazaro Cardenas E Snow falls on granite mountain SINALOA
TIR

Wine producers of this temperate valley Isla San Martn peaks rising abruptly out of sea and PACIFIC
harvest grapes that yield over eighty per- desert. Climb to the highest point K
6447 ft
Punta San Fermin
make much of an impact on the land, most of OCEAN AREA

R
cent of Mexicos wines. Stop at vineyards on the peninsula for a view of both 1965 m Puertecitos Hot Springs
which looks now as it did when Cortez aban-
ENLARGED
and restaurants along the Wine Route coasts, and watch for golden Bask in your choice of these Los Tanques
Trincheras
pick up a map at Baja Tourism offices. eagles and condors flying overhead. geothermally-heated pools
Cabo San Quintn
ar
a
doned the peninsula: stark, defiantly beautiful,

A
Puertecitos cooled by tidal seawater.
ta M
BROWN PELICANS
a n o JULIO RODRGUEZ R.
San Quintn Bay Bah
aS
ar intimidating.
i

Blue and purple sea grass beds os Puerto Lobos

N
Yet the spines and barbs are just an evolutionary defense protecting
lR

provide winter habitat for the Pacific


GULF OF CALIFORNIA
E

black brant goose, and coastal


marshes shelter the light footed its gentler side. Walking in an arroyo after my first Baja summer
clapper rail. Bring binoculars and 1 Punta Santa Isabel (SEA OF CORTEZ) thunderstormhummingbirds probing ocotillo flowers, fat mesquite
walk for miles on deserted beaches, Mama Espinosas Nuevo Uruapan
B AJ A

D
or view ruins of an old mill, now Isla el Muerto
home to a bayside restaurant. 30
Known for lobster burritos
and warm hospitality
El Rosario Isla Lobos
pods dangling on the branchI realized that this peninsula was a
Isla Encantada 30 sleeping beauty, needing only the kiss of water to awaken.

E
Catavia

La Lobera
Punta Baja
C A L I F O R NI A Isla San Luis
Punta Bufeo
Bring your camera on a desert hike
amid endemic blue palms and Cirios, The Californios have always known this, and have managed a cen-

S
Baha Rosario Puerto Libertad
Peer over the edge of what appears to giant Cardon cactithe worlds
be a vast seaside crater, actually a
Catavia Cave Paintings
Ancient yet vivid figures of yellow, VALLE DE Isla San Luis Gonzaga
largest cactus, and the boulder field turies-old balance of limited resources that could serve as a lesson to us

E
collapsed cave, for a look at the sea where centuries of wind has shaped
lions who reside deep below. Punta San Antonio
red, and brown on walls and ceiling
of a small desert cave.
Baha San
Luis Gonzaga hills and valleys of smooth rock. all. You might see some vacation developments threatening this balance,
Catavina places tilting more towards fantasy than reality. But remember, this

R
a na Natural History and Cultural
oc Las Cuevitas
San Carlos L aB
Museum of Baha de los Angeles peninsula is the original California, and its California Dream isnt make-

T
LOS CIRIOS A 30-foot-long gray whale skeleton La Polvareda
Punta San Carlos hangs from the ceiling of this small believe. Its defined by the distinctive places youll find on this map,
Isla Mejia museum that also exhibits arrow-
heads from Cochimi natives, equip- BAY OF LOS ANGELES, WHALES AND judged by the people who actually live here as being the peninsulas
ment from abandoned mines, and an SALSIPUEDES CHANNELS BIOSPHERE RESERVE
entire wall of well-described shells.
El Desemboque
Find yourself sleeping under the stars, most authentic treasures. Visiting them enriches your journey, and
paddling through shaded coves, or exploring
Punta del Norte
Punta Canoas
FLORA AND FAUNA arid desert islands that rise out of the sustains their future. They and their visitors agree with John Steinbeck:
118W Cerro Dos Picachos
K
5446 ft
Isla Angel
de la Guarda
turquoise sea. When birdwatching for peli-
"A dream hangs over the whole region.
Cirios Valley Natural Protected Area 1 1660 m cans and ospreys, cast your eyes downward
Named after the towering spike-like
(Guardian Angel I.) for the chance to see a humpback whale in
Charlie Kulander, travel author
Ca (Wh

KMonte Augusta Cirio plant, this protected area this newly-established protected area.
na ale

4259 ft
ld sC

1298 m stretches from Pacific to Gulf coast.


110 109
e ha

NUESTRA SEORA DE LORETO MISSION


Spot mule deer, coyote, and bighorn PROTECTION
Ba nn

PURESTOCK / GETTY IMAGES


sheep while inland, and sea turtles ISLAS DEL GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA
lle el)

Punta del Vapor


and peregrine falcons where desert s
na

meets the sea.


Hermosillo GB
Punta Blanco Isla FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA
Isla Guadalupe
ISLA GUADALUPE
29 Baha Blanco Coronado BAHA DE LOS NGELES, Punta Chueca
SONORA Bacanora 29
CANALES DE BALLENAS Isla Tiburon
BIOSPHERE RESERVE 29N AREA Baha de Y SALSIPUEDES
los Angeles BIOSPHERE RESERVE
(Shark I.)
Santa Mara
Punta Prieta Baha de los Angeles
PA CI F IC Punta Mara
Isla
Baha Kino Nuevo
O CE A N Partida EMiguel Aleman
Morro Sur Las Animas Isla Rasa Baha Kino
y
ba

San Francisco de Worlds primary breeding spot for


Yu

Borja Adac Mission Heermanns gulls and elegant terns Baha Kino
Ca

Well-preserved stone church ARCHIPELAGO DE Valle Verde


n

completed in 1801 and still in use today


La Unica Ecotourism Camp Isla Turner
al

0 mi 15
Solar panels generate electricity for SAN LORENZO
Sa

Isla San Esteban


Punta Santa Rosalita Santa Rosalita
ls

0 km 15 cabins at this natural reserve. Take NATIONAL PARK


ip

a guided educational desert hike,


ue

Baha Santa Rosalita Isla San Lorenzo


s
de

photographic sea tour, or fishing trip. Santa Eduwiges


GUADALUPE ISLAND BIOSPHERE RESERVE Punta Rosarito
Scuba dive, whale-watch, or observe great Guerrero Negro Baha San Rafael Las Avispas Onavas
white sharks on this remote volcanic Wetlands provide habitat for the white Punta Ballena
island and sole reproduction zone for the pelican, royal eagle, and gray and
Punta San Francisquito San Nicolas
Guadalupe fur seal. white heron. Nearby, visit the largest
natural outdoor saltworks in the world
Cerro la Sandia
K Puerto San Francisquito ISLA SAN PEDRO MARTIR NUESTRA SEORA DE LORETO MISSION
5938 ft AND MISSION MUSEUM
and see locally made salt figurines. 1810 m Isla San Pedro Martir BIOSPHERE RESERVE Pozo Nuevo Founded in 1697 and considered the first
Cedros Island Ortiz successful mission on the peninsula. Visit
Islas
On a 3- to 4-hour hike from town to San Benito Villa Jesus Mara Mission Santa Gertrudis la Magna the museum, which depicts the lives of
the islands nearly 4,000-foot peak Punta Small stone church built in 1752 both natives and missionaries, and the
youll observe junipers, oak, and pine Santo Domingo and its freestanding bell tower a original stone church, recently restored.
trees, but no cedar trees, for which short distance away. Cabo San Miguel
the island was mistakenly named.
Baha
San Agustn 3937 ft
K Sebastian Vizcano
1200 m Cedros
D E

Malarrimo Beach
28N Puerto
Morro Redondo
Famous for objectsfrom driftwood G El Arco Baha San Juan Bautista
28N
and sea glass to kitchen appliances
Empalme
S I

cast here by ocean currents from as Guerrero Negro E San Carlos G


Isla San Pedro Nolasco
far away as Alaska and Japan. 1 Guaymas
Santa Rosala E
E R

Isla Natividad Wooden homes with balconies and


COMPLEJO LAGUNAR Benito Juarez Baha San Carlos Rosario
porches replaced disordered adobe
Falsa OJO DE LIEBRE Marina del Rey

An Endless Summer
Punta structures when a French mining
T

BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Lag(Scam

company founded this town. Stroll


O

SI streets lined by original pastel-hued


un

a ER structures, grab a fresh baguette at


Baha Tortugas
O
mo jo de RA
Liebre Punta Santa Ana Panadera El Boleo, in business since
D

D I S C O V E R I N G T H E P E N I N S U L A S D I V E R S I T Y Pe n n s u l a d e
ns
Lagoon) S 1901, and stop in the library for Vicam
E

Baha Tortugas Baha Santa Ana


AN

photos of the towns mining heyday.


Punta Clambey EEsperanza
Giant winter swells slant down the
FR

Vizcano
V

Quiriego
AN

peninsula's west coast, curling into Z K


I

Punta Morro Hermoso Emiliano Zapata 5184 ft RY


1580 m FER
C ECiudad Obregon
CI

waves sought by the worlds best

Mexicos Galpagos
SC

Laguna Ojo de Liebre


A Volcan Las Tres Vrgenes
surfers, while 50 miles away, kayakers
O

Isla Tortuga
N Maranata Restaurant
K
Considered one of the best whale- 6365 ft
glide on flatiron seas. That's the diversi- watching spots in the world, this K O Regional foods such as dates and figs 1940 m
3018 ft Vendor of traditional handicrafts
ty this narrow peninsula offers: you can World Heritage Site provides refuge Baha 920 m Isla San Marcos
encounter a placid Caribbean-like beach for breeding gray whales and their
calves during the winter.
San Cristobal EL VIZCANO BIOSPHERE RESERVE 1
E
Santa Rosala
ISLAS DEL GOLFO
DE CALIFORNIA
In between diving and fishing, be
sure to check out the carvings
AN EVOLUTIONARY TREASURE
on one side, Hawaii's North Shore on the San Lino FLORA AND FAUNA made by local fishermen. When the San Andreas Fault divorced
other, and tackle the Sierras in between San Ignacio Kadakaamn Mission San Ignacio San Ignacio de Loyola PROTECTION AREA
San Pablo This impressive Spanish colonial Fair and Festival the peninsula from the North American
all in one day. And if you're prepared mainland a few million years back, not
for a multi-sport adventure, the weather
church has four-foot-thick walls of
local volcanic stone, a grand exte- San Marcos GULF OF CALIFORNIA only did it create the worlds youngest
will never shut you down. Baha Asuncion rior faade with cornices, moldings,
and engraved stone plaques, and (SEA OF CORTEZ) sea, it left behind some tectonic
an interior altar of carved wood
San Jose de Punta Chivato orphans: over 200 of them. (A few newer
Pedro Cole, bodysurfer, La Paz: and gold. Magdalena Isla Santa Ines volcanic islands have added to their
27 Punta Prieta Laguna
"Some of the best waves come up from Baha Santa Ines number.) These islands, powered by
the south, driven by severe summer olito
Mesa San nutrient-rich seas, raced down the
storms. Surf breaks that lie dormant n Hip Santa Clara
Punta Sa Baha Mulege Punta Concepcion evolutionary highway, becoming home
where you never see wavessuddenly San Hipolito Ignacio
to the largest number of endemic
turn into some of the most incredible ro
Laguna San Ignacio n Ped species in North America: chuckwallas,
breaks you'll ever ride. Where are the Sa rattlesnakes, jackrabbits, spiders,
P A C I F I C
Baha

This World Heritage Site is the only Baha


best spots? You gotta be kidding. You remaining gray whale breeding Ballenas scorpions, squirrels, lizards, plants
have to find these places yourself." lagoon considered undisturbed Punta Abreojos B AJA El Coyote Punta Santa Teresa
and insects. This astounding diversity
Co n

by human development. Take an


educational boating and camping prompted UNESCO to recognize the
ce

Trudi Angell, tour operator, Loreto: Isla San Ildefonso


O C E A N Gulfs islands as a World Heritage Site.
pc

expedition with Ecoturismo Kuyim


CA LIF OR NIA
n
In March 1978, we paddled out of the
i o

and observe adult whales and their Baha San Nicolas And its why a network of national
channel across to Isla Danzante in the young offspring.
Punta Pulpito parksthe Loreto, San Lorenzo, and
moonlight surrounded by whale blows Espritu Santo marine parks, the Baha
S

Rosarito
to begin a month-long paddle down the
coast to La Paz. It was a magical night.
Batequi
SUR Baha San Juanico

de los Angeles and Upper Gulf bios-
phereshave been created to
I

Thirty years later, and Im still here. Cadeje Punta Mercenarios protect these islands.
KAYAKING, ENSENADA GRANDE, ISLA PARTIDA
E

RALPH LEE HOPKINS 1


Punta Santo Domingo
San Juanico
Punta Mangles Tim Means, founder, Baja Expeditions:
R

World-renown surf spot


San Isidro
San Juan Bautista Londo Theres no place where we have the
La Pursima possibility to save so much of the
R

Baha San Juanico worlds wildlife than what we have

Desert Visions
5512 ft
1680 m Isla Coronados
117 K
here in the Sea of Cortez right now.
A

116 San Jose de Comondu


Nuestra Seora de Loreto Mission
Our Lady of Loreto Festivities, Once its gone, you cant put it back.
E Loreto Foundation Festival ISLA CORONADOS, LORETO BAY
and Mission Museum
A R T I S T S W O R K I N A T R A N S C E N D E N T L A N D S C A P E 26 Loreto MIGUEL NGEL DE LA CUEVA / WWW.PLANETAPENINSULA.ORG
Las Barrancas G
BAHA DE Isla Carmen
Nopolo
SINALOA
u

Walk the sand dunes, view


Whether it's folkloric art along the bor-
nd

o LORETO saltworks ruins, and sunbathe


m
National Geographic and the people of the states of Baja der or the government-sponsored Casas San Javier on a secluded beach
Los Mochis E
o

E
C

de Cultura found in the dustiest of towns, Danzante Resort NATIONAL


California and Baja California Sur present this Geotourism This luxurious eco-resort employs
MapGuide to the peninsula of Baja California. youll feel the vital artistic pulse of the Isla Danzante
Poza Grande its neighbors only and is built PARK
peninsula. Resident artistsMexican and from renewable and handmade
internationalare interpreting sea and materials. Take in the sea panora- Ensenada Isla Monserrat Isla Santa Catalina
L

ma from your private hilltop suite, Blanca Espritu Santo Island


Funded by National Geographic Expeditions, Lindblad desert in startling new ways, a vibrancy Home to the giant barrel cactus Swim among sea lions, kayak beneath Topolobampo
spend the day in the mountains and a rattle-less rattlesnake
Expeditions, and the Mexican Fund for the Conservation of that fills the galleries in Todos Santos red rock cliffs, or snorkel alongside
A

or sea, and enjoy a meal from


Nature (FMCN). Prepared by National Geographic Maps and and elsewhere. Inspired by their sur- the organic garden. pufferfish, angelfish, and rainbow wrasse
the National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations in this biologically diverse protected
roundings, artists increasingly work to area. After camping on the beach, hike
in collaboration with the Sonoran Institute, the Baja San Antonio Puerto
the island and keep an eye out for the
California Tourism Office, and the Baja California Sur
conserve them. Santo Domingo de la Higuera Agua Verde
black jackrabbit and a certain type of
G

Puerto Adolfo Lpez Mateos


Tourism Office. Book a whale-watching trip, go antelope ground squirrel found nowhere
Michael Cope, owner, Galera de Todos sportfishing, or birdwatch in this
Villa Ignacio Zaragoza else on the planet.
Text by Charlie Kulander, author; Tom Miller, editor. Map Santos:
I

friendly port city. Isla Magdalena Punta San Telmo


notes by Angela Burnford. "This is an oasis in the desertthe Llanos
Isla
ANGELFISH, CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARK
OCTAVIO ABURTO / WWW.COLORESDELBERMEJO.COM
de Hiray 1
G

clarity of light, the water, even the way Boca La Soledad Santa Cruz ISLAS DEL GOLFO
Ciudad Insurgentes
Visit www.discoverbajacalifornia.com and cows walk across the roadeverything Isla DE CALIFORNIA
www.explorebajasur.com to learn more about points
A

a painter needs is in Todos Santos. We San Diego FLORA AND FAUNA


of interest on the peninsula of Baja California. Puerto Adolfo PROTECTION AREA
work with the town to preserve this Lopez Mateos Sa
nL Punta Calabozo
N

regional character. Seeing how popular uis


Isla Las Animas
Copyright 2007 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C.
weve become, the town realizes what's
at stake; we now have building codes to Ciudad Constitucion
T

E
keep it historical. And the art community 25 Isla San Jose
has initiated school art programs. Isla Magdalena 22
Villa Morelos
A

San Evaristo
Hotel Brennan San Luis Gonzaga Santa Mara
Small, family-owned hotel offering sport- de Toris
L

Miguel Angel De la Cueva, photographer, fishing and whale-watching excursions Isla San Francisco
L

La Paz: Puerto
A
Puerto San Carlos Cabo San Lazaro Gray Whale San Luis Gonzaga Chiriyaqui Mission
"While climbing the Sierra de la Giganta This fishing village and deep-water San Carlos Festival N
Step inside the 1750s stone church
years ago, I was awestruck by its port is a favorite birdwatching spot. O or walk amid the fruit trees of this Punta Coyote
Baha Santa Mara
Y

grandeur, and felt the need to share its Catch a glimpse of resident ospreys
RR

mission set in the middle of the desert.


Baha
FE

or Brant geese. Go whale-watching. D


force and beauty. If my photographs can Puerto Magdalena Magdalena Baha Coyote
s

E
re

make a person feel this same passion,


eb

Santa Rita i Isla Partida


then perhaps they will help to protect ARCHIPELAGO DE
L

Magdalena Bay L CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARK


s

ESPRITU SANTO
these places. This has become my work.
La

Hike sand dunes, camp on remote Punta Redonda A Take a dive into the only coral reef in the Sea of
TODOS SANTOS beaches, or kayak calm mangrove Espritu NATIONAL PARK Cortez and swim among 800 species of marine
JON ARNOLD IMAGES / ALAMY Puerto Cortes Baha
forests of this wetland ecosystem Almejas Santo I. animals, including whale sharks, leatherback
rich in wildlife. Get close to Pacific Puerto M Punta Norte
Las Pocitas Punta Dispensa turtles, and bottlenosd dolphins. Learn how
gray whales in winter months or
Isla Santa Margarita Chale A San Juan Grupo Tortuguero is dedicated to sea turtle
spot bald eagles, magnificent Isla G de la Costa conservation.
Ca

frigatebirds, or the endangered Creciente D Isla


na

1 Baha de Pichilingue Cerralvo


115 114 113 California brown pelican. Punta Tosca A
lC

La Paz
L To FERR
er

House of the Southern Baja E lv


ra

o Ma Y
Californian Artisan N La Paz zat
Foundation Festival lan
This cooperative has a showroom and A La Paz
B Punta Montana
a
store featuring paintings, sculptures, Sargento
a l a Ventan
and clothing made by local craftspeople.
Chametla
G Bah
24
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Calafia

Sustaining Seas
24 1 San Juan Ensenada
Music, Food, Heritage & Nature La Paz
View cave painting reproductions, colonial
de Los Planes
San Pedro Palm fiber baskets and de Muertos

Todos Santos Art Festival Todos Santos, Baja California Sur


Longitude West 112 of Greenwich objects, and other artifacts at the Regional pottery by local artisans
(end of January or early February) Exhibits and performanc-
es by local and regional artists, musicians, filmmakers, and
WHALES AND MAN DEPEND ON SQUID Museum of Anthropology and History. Try the
fish tacos and ceviche at either El Bismark El Triunfo San Antonio Cardonal
Punta Pescadero
artisans, workshops, and conferences www.todossantos- or El Bismarkcito. Stroll along the six-mile-
baja.com/todos-santos/art/art-festival.htm
The real celebrities found off peninsular long Malecn, a lively waterfront promenade El Rosario San Bartolo
Los Barriles/Buena Vista
Gray Whale Festival Magdalena Bay, Baja California Sur (end
shores are the 31 species of dolphin and perfect for eating ice cream and watching Heart of the East Cape and perfect spot
the sunset. Find out if Los Huizapoles, a Los Barriles for fishing, kayaking, or windsurfing
of January to mid-February) Promotes the opening of the whales whose feathered geysers youll popular musical, theatrical, and comic duo,
whale-watching season with music and entertainment, local spot on the horizon. None are more Buena Vista
are currently performing in town. 19
food, horse racing, and fireworks www.bajaquest.com/side- impressive than the sperm whales, the SIERRA LA LAGUNA 1 La Ribera
trips/sidetrip04.htm Punta Arena
Baja Prog Mexicali, Baja California (March) Largest progres-
largest toothed mammals in the world. K6824 ft
2080 m
Cultural Center and
They hunt the Gulfs most mysterious BIOSPHERE
NA

sive rock concert in Mexico drawing bands and fans from all Museum of Todos Santos Santiago
around the world www.bajaprog.org/webring_progordie.php and prolific creature, the torpedo-like View colonial artifacts, local handicrafts, Todos Santos CABO PULMO
AGU

TROPIC OF CANCER Todos Santos Todos Santos NATIONAL PARK


Festival of San Jos del Cabo San Jos del Cabo, Baja Humboldt squid. In Santa Rosala, wit- and larger-than-life murals depicting the
peninsulas history. Attend a folk danc- Punta Lobos Art Festival RESERVE
California Sur (mid-March) Beginning with parties and music, ness the sunset exodus of 200 outboard- Miraflores Baha Los Frailes
SIERRA LA L

this festival continues for 11 days with carnivals and ing workshop or painting demo during Handmade leather goods
parades on weekends www.mexperience.com/guide/ driven pangas, speeding offshore for a the week-long annual art festival. El Pescadero
and wooden handicrafts
beaches/sanjosedelcabo.htm night of squid fishing, a bobbing city of
San Jose

La Paz Foundation Festival La Paz, Baja California Sur (first


week in May) Exhibits and concerts celebrate the founding
lights on the Sea of Cortez. 111 Boca de la Vinorama
of La Paz on May 3, 1535 www.lapaz-tourism.com

Mario Reyes, squid fisherman, Santa


Festivities of the Holy Cross, Valle de Mexicali, Baja San Jose Viejo Santa Catarina
California (May) Traditional religious celebration featuring Rosala: CATHOLIC CHURCH, TODOS SANTOS
BERNARD FRIEL / DANITA DELIMONT / ALAMY
San Jos del Cabo
G
dancing, music, and colorful costumes www.cucapah.org "It is risky out here. The squids beak is Candelaria Festivities E Punta Gorda
San Ignacio de Loyola Fair and Festival San Ignacio, Baja sharp, and we bathe in its ink. By law, Migrino San Jose
California Sur (last week of July) Festival honors the towns we can only fish by hand with hooks,
del Cabo
Baha
23
patron saint and includes horse races, music, dances,
religous celebrations, sports events, and fireworks which keeps the fishery sustainable
23 San Jose San Jos Estuary
del Cabo
www.mexonline.com/cityguide-sanignacio.htm very tiring, but worth it. When the cop- This protected bird sanctuary is
Cabo San Lucas EBaha San Lucas home to more than 250 bird
Fiestas de la Vendimia Ensenada, Baja California (August) per mines in town closed, there was no Cabo Falso CABO SAN LUCAS species, including egrets, pelicans,
Presentation of the wines of Baja California accompanied by way to make a living until we began fish- FLORA AND FAUNA and frigatebirds. Wander the quiet
music, food tasting and art www.fiestasdelavendimia.com PROTECTION AREA
paths or kayak the lagoon.
ing squid. Santa Rosala now depends on
Our Lady of Loreto Festivities Loreto, Baja California Sur
(September 5-8) Honors Loreto's patron saint and Baja's the squid fishery, even though it is not a
first mission with a series of religious, civic, and cultural food we are accustomed to eating.
activities including pilgrimages, baptisms, sport-fishing Asians buy most of our catch.
tournaments, horse races, and dances www.loreto.com
Festivals of the Sun Mexicali, Baja California (end of
September to mid-October) Dancing, music, art exhibits, Professor Bill Gilly, Hopkin's Marine
parades, carnival rides, and food booths featuring regional Station:
cuisine www.fiestasdelsol.com.mx "One squid can produce a million off-
FIDEICOMISO ESTATAL DE TURISMO BCS

109
SPERM WHALES, GULF OF CALIFORNIA

Loreto Foundation Festival Loreto, Baja California Sur spring; the population is absolutely
(October 19-25) Celebrates the founding of Bajas first town
immense. Sperm whales probably take
DANCERS IN CABO SAN LUCAS

www.loreto.com
DOUGLAS PEEBLES / CORBIS

Puerto Nuevo Lobster Festival Puerto Nuevo, Baja California out as much squid as man does; they'll TODOS SANTOS
(October) Live music, crafts, local wine sampling, folklorico eat half a ton of them a day, one reason Sculptors, dancers, and surfers alike call this his-
dancing, contests, and lobster feast www.puertonuevo the whale population is very healthy. Up toric seaside town home. Start your day with
lobster.com/puerto-nuevo-lobster-festival.htm warm bread from family-owned Panadera Todos
in Isla San Pedro Mrtir I saw six huge
San Felipe Shrimp Festival San Felipe, Baja California
(November) Big block party with three days of music, danc- sperm whales doing barrel rolls right
Santos. Tour Nuestra Seora del Pilar de Todos
Santos Mission, built in 1786. Browse shelves of
110
ing, seafood, and beach fun www.sanfelipe.com.mx next to the ship." hard-to-find books at Tecolote Bookstore.
Baja theme side 1/15/08 10:08 AM Page 1

Peninsula of

Baja California A Quixotic spirit runs through this peninsula. The


LAND OF EPIC VISIONS AND UNEXPECTED TRAVELS
Rosala, you may witness a shimmering mirage of islands
rancheros, for example, barely wrest their livelihoods disappearing right before your eyes. You will have

SAND DUNES, ISLA MAGDALENA, BAHIA MAGDALENA


from an intractable desert, yet name their ranches in learned a most important lesson: nothing here is what it
keeping with their epic visions: Rancho Esperanza, seems. It doesnt matter how you travelby car or
Rancho Progreso, Rancho El Imposible. Hope, Progress, kayak, sailboat or mountain bikethe wind-whipped
seas, searing heat, mysterious currents, unmarked roads

DOLPHINS, GULF OF CALIFORNIA


The Impossible. The clean ocean air washing across
the peninsula lets you see clearly into the sublime and trails will interfere with your planned journey,

SVEN-OLOF LINDBLAD
heart of the desert, yet as you drop down the hairpin pulling you towards the unexpected. You can plan your

STEPHEN COHEN
Cuesta del Infierno into the furnace-blast heat of Santa route, but dont expect to always follow it.
Charlie Kulander, travel author

BETWEEN TIJUANA AND ENSENADA


CALIFORNIA
La Mesa
E 117 116W Cultural Investigations Center and
115
ARIZONA Museum of the Autonomous
UN
ITE Cuchuma Mountain University of Baja California
8 Winterhaven
San Diego E
E
Lemon Grove
E
D
ME STAT
XIC Stop and smell the lilacs, Heber E View local history exhibits, sculp-
O ES
artemisia, and sage, or birdwatch tures and crafts from indigenous Los E
Yuma E
AREA ENLARGED for golden eagles and red-tailed Algodones
Coronado E 5 peoples, regional artwork, and more.
hawks. Find the rock-slab altar at ELigurta
8
ENational City the peak of this mountain consid- Calexico E
BAJA ered sacred to the Kumiai.
CALIFORNIA
Tijuana EChula Vista CALIFORNIA ATES
B
GU

SONORA UNITED ST Mexicali Ciudad Morelos E


Walk the lively Avenida Revolucin, G
LF

EJacumba MEXI CO
Tijuanas main street, known by
(S
OF OF
E

Tijuanans as La Revu. Head to Jai ESomerton


A

Alai Fronton Palace, which formerly


CA CO

housed fast-paced Basque ball Imperial Beach


E
LI RT

E EBenito Juarez
games and exhibits impressive E 2 Puebla
FO EZ

Moorish architecture. Tecate ELa


5
R )

Rumorosa
N

E G Rancho Ojai R.V. Park


ARIZONA
IA

2
Tijuana Family-friendly working ranch
with camping, cabins, and many Vallecitos Hermosillo E
recreational activities Hike through pine forests and agave ESan Luis
groves to locate several prehistoric La Rumorosa Grade Laguna Salada
rock paintings. On the winter sol- Keep one eye on the steep, winding Deposits left from Gulf floods create E
AREA
ENLARGED ELa Joya
stice, a sunbeam enters the cave of highway and another on the impres- exceptionally salty waters in this San Luis UN
red-colored El Diablito, or Little
Devil, and illuminates only the
sive mountain scenery as you shallow, hour-glass-shaped basin. Ro Colorado ITE
DS
TAT
BAJA San Antonio descend 4,000 exhilarating feet. ES
PA C I F I C ENuevo Leon
E
CALIFORNIA del Mar figures eyes. MEX
Islas Coronado ICO
SUR Laguna
OCEAN
Tijuana Cultural Center Juntas de Neji-Kumeyaay
Valle de las Palmas Indigenous Community Salada 2
Considered Baja Californias most E
important cultural center, this modern Playas de Rosarito E 3 Delta E
landmark is home to a concert hall,

o
ad
IMAX theater, and the Museum of the
Las Calabazas

or
AREA Californias. Allow yourself time in the 4199 ft Tajo Canyon

ol
ENLARGED 1280 m KCerro Gordo Spectacular El Trono Blanco,

C
museum to see the maps, photographs,
tools, and other artifacts that recount BIK Mexicos tallest monolith at 1,970 Guadalupe Victoria
E
E RO feet, rises out of a rugged boulder-
the peninsulas rich history. UTE Puerto Nuevo
Punta Descanso and palm-tree-strewn gorge.
Self-proclaimed Lobster Capital of
Puerto Nuevo Climbing and hiking this rugged land-
E Baja and home to 30-plus restau- Colonia Carranza
scape is not for the faint of heart.
E
Baha Descanso rants all serving the same dish:
Puerto Nuevo lobstercrustaceans EL PINACATE Y
pan-fried in lard and served with Luis
E B. Sanchez
Rosarito Beach Hotel beans, rice, and tortillas. San Jose
Former Prohibition watering hole
for Hollywood royalty. Take in the
Ede la Zorra
San Antonio Necua BAJA GRAN DESIERTO DE ALTAR
ENSENADA lobbys panoramic murals or the Rosarito Ensenada 50 Mile Indigenous Community Guadalupe Canyon
ar
SONORA
Fun Bicycle Ride

H
Grab a fish taco or scope out the catch of view of the beach from the bar. Take a guided hike, go horseback BIOSPHERE RESERVE
the day at the lively Fish Market. Kick back Family-owned since the 1920s. Biannual ride along
scenic coastal highway La Mision
riding, or learn basket-weaving at this CALIFORNIA dy

Cucap Community Museum


with a cerveza at legendary Hussongs San Antonio Kumiai Indian community. Learn about
Francisco Zarco The Cucap have inhabited this
E
medicinal plant uses, hear traditional
E
Cantina, where Bing Crosby crooned and Necua GUADALUPE CANYON
E
1857 CONSTITUTION region for 3,000 years and today
John Wayne tipped his hat. Meander music, and camp at the Siao Kuatay Explore desert landscape and palm groves
Guadalupe Valley Community Kumiai Recreational Center. NATIONAL PARK struggle to subsist in a severely E
Ejido Luis E. Johnson
opulent halls of the Riviera de Ensenada Museum environmentally degraded area. at the foot of granite mountains. Swim in
Civic & Cultural Center, once a famed hotel Laguna Hanson spring-fed pools. Tour prehistoric rock art
Locally made Indian crafts and The museum recounts their history
and casino frequented by celebrities such memorabilia from early Russian and exhibits traditional handicrafts sites. Unwind in the private outdoor hot

S I E
as Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz. immigrants, all housed in a 1905 and clothing. tub at your campsite.
ESan Marcos
Russian cottage.
3
32N
5

R R
Punta Salsipuedes
San Antonio de las Minas
E

A
La Huerta
PA C I FI C
E

MIGUEL ANGEL DE LA CUEVA / WWW.PLANETAPENINSULA.ORG


Ojos Negros

J U
Punta San Miguel
E
1857 Constitution National Park

OCEAN Hike through pine forests, go mountain


biking, or camp beside fresh-water

A
3
Ensenada Hansons Lagoon in this park named in ALTO GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA

R
E
Punta Ensenada honor of the 1857 signing of Mexicos
Ensenada

E
constitution.

Z
or
lvad Y DELTA DEL RO COLORADO

BIGHORN SHEEP, GUADALUPE CANYON


Baha n Sa
La Bufadora Todos Santos Sa
HUSSONGS CANTINA, ENSENADA

Isla de Todos Santos


At the rocky tip of Punta Banda
peninsula, water shoots upward as BIOSPHERE RESERVE
far as 80 feet above sea level, Isla
making this the second largest Punta Banda Montague
marine geyser in the world. La Bufadora
Maneadero
E
CLAUDE VOGEL

E
(Rodolfo Sanchez Taboada)
0 mi 15

0 km 15

AND MULEGE
BETWEEN SANTA ROSALIA Geotraveler Tips BETWEEN LA PAZ AND SAN JOSE DEL CABO
Isla Partida
How to Help the Baja California Region Desert Ecology 110W
0 mi 15
Retain Its Character Ironwood trees are the Florence Nightingales of
EL VIZCANO BIOSPHERE RESERVE Focus on what's authentic. Not only will you gain the desert, nursing hundreds of plant species ARCHIPELAGO DE
6365 ft K
0 km 15
greater cultural insight, your targeted pesos will under their shade canopies. Wood from these Isla
ESPRITU SANTO
1940 m Volcan Las 112W help local communities conserve local tradition rapidly disappearing trees, some 800 years old, Isla Ballena NATIONAL

po
Tres Vrgenes Espritu PARK

bam
Top ERRY
and protect natural resources. Baja Californios have been converted to woodcarvings and Santo

olo
Isla Tortuga

F
ra
Sier cisco
typically respond with enthusiasm and heartfelt mesquite charcoal. Admire the trees, but avoid
To n Fran hospitality to any traveler curious about their purchasing their carvings or their charcoal. Keep

To
Sa
daily lives. ATVs and similar off-road vehicles on established Punta Lupona El Angel Azul
FERRY
Punta Dispensa To Mazatlan
roads and paths, doing otherwise violates regula-
MISSION OF SANTA ROSALA DE MULEG

CUESTA Y Bright, traditional colors fill the guest-


FERR
DEL INFIERNO
To Gu
a ymas Food tions and scars the land for years, even decades. rooms of this family-owned B&B,
Vizcano Biosphere Reserve originally the towns courthouse and
Gray whales frequent coastal ESanta Rosala
Seeking real regional cuisine? Skip pre-trip provi- EEl Tecolote recently restored. Step under the
lagoons and fruit-bearing cacti sioning; you'll find everything you need prowling On the Beach Balandra hacienda-style arches into the garden
MARCO REGALIA / ALAMY

TRAVIS ROWAN / ALAMY


color the inland arid landscape of the peninsula's modern supermarkets found in all Leave footprints, not trash. Shells and driftwood Beach and enjoy a traditional Mexican
Mexicos largest protected area. breakfast before taking a short walk
ISLAS DEL the larger cities, and things youve never heard of are part of the fragile beach habitat; leave them

BALANDRA BEACH
View cave paintingsthere are to the waterfront.
more than 200 in the Sierra San at roadside stands and mini-mercados. Don't in their place. Keep in mind that campfires can EPichilingue
Francisco, hike the desert, or miss the specialties of the smaller towns: sweet scar beaches for years and are illegal on the

Ca
1 Punta San Lucas
explore islands and wetlands. raisins, pitahaya fruit, dates, Mission grape wine. Gulf's islands. Finally, Mexico maintains a public

na
Isla
right-of-way from the mean high tide line to 66

l
SANTA ROSALA DE MULEG MISSION
Ba h a de Cerralvo
Isla San Marcos Money BALANDRA BEACH

Ce
ESan Lucas
GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA Step inside the picturesque 18th-century feet inland, even in front of exclusive resorts. La Paz Wade through the opalescent blue-green
Bring small denomination Mexican bills, especially

rr
lime and stone church to see the original (Local beach peddlers know this!) ISLAS DEL water of this shallow bay and view 12-foot-
SI
San Marcos

al
to rural areas where it may be impossible to break
E
statue of Saint Rosala. Outside, follow the
ER
Pennsula tall Mushroom Rock, a well-known land-
GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA

vo
rocky steps for a panorama of the sur- a 500-peso note. You'll get the best exchange rate El Mogote
RA

Campsites mark and symbol of La Paz. With its man-


rounding hills, river, and palm tree forest. Ens e nad a La Paz
B FLORA AND FAUNA groves and mountain backdrop, this public
at the ATMs found in all the larger cities.
LA

Stick to trails that have been around for decades La Pa z PROTECTION AREA beach, threatened by development, is a
PI

if not centuries. The desert ecology is easily focal point for conservation efforts.
Real Estate
NT

El Centenario EChametla
scarred by errant footsteps. (And getting lost is a
E
FLORA AND FAUNA
AD

Santa Barbara Church A long-term rental in an integrated community real danger.) As a custodian of the wild, be
G ESargento
Tam

The towns main tourist attraction is proclaims your compatibility with local culture, Punta Arena de la Ventana
the all-steel church that was prefabri-
San Jose
Ede Magdalena GULF OF CALIFORNIA and avoids the tourist bubble that dwelling in
proactive and clean up after others who have al
es Baha la Ventana
cated in France before being shipped gone before you.
to the current site in pieces. high-end resorts consigns you to. Buying into a
Calafia
(SEA OF CORTEZ)
E
Isla Santa Ines new housing development in a remote, pristine
PROTECTION AREA area will speed its deterioration. Nor should you
Golf EEnsenada de 24N
27N Stick to links with eco-focused management los Muertos
S

Baha Santa Ines buy into a place on your first trip when youre 1
systems including gray water irrigation and
I

Ensenada de Muertos
San Juan
GULF OF CALIFORNIA
E
wearing rose-tinted glasses; stay nearby a couple
E

saline-tolerant hybrid grass (the rare exception de los Planes


of times. Check for year-round electricity, hurri-
R

Muleg here, not the rule). San Pedro


R

cane protection, insurance, waste and sewage (SEA OF CORTEZ)


S

Part fishing town, part genuine


E
A

Mexican village, part scenic para- disposal, and especially potable water. Seek a
dise. Explore the narrow streets or
house that fits into the desert surroundings, Hotels El Triunfo
S

comb the beach by day and camp Whenever possible, lodge at locally owned After the 1750s discovery of gold
I

Punta Concepcion
A

EMulege along the river under palm trees at aesthetically, culturally, ecologically. and silver, wealth-seeking
independent hotels where your money trickles
N

night. Dont miss the folk dancers Europeans flocked here and built a
dr
o Santa Rosala at Hotel Serenidads pig roast or Photography through the local economy. Give preference also grand mining empire. The 130-
E
P

Pe de Muleg Mission the margaritas at Los Equipales. to hotels that make a point of supporting local foot-tall main chimney still stands,
n Digital cameras work best, as image quality does
P E

ECardonal
E

Sa along with smelter and mine ruins. ESan Antonio


5380 ft
not deteriorate in heat. Flash is prohibited conservation, communities, and culture. Laundry Punta Pescadero
D

1640 m
K
squanders precious water; reuse towels and
N

around cave paintings and in most museums.


R
R

sheets when practical.


O

Punta Santa Rosa


Instead, boost ISO to 800 or 1200. For wildlife
BAJA photos, keeping your distance with a telephoto El Rosario E
S

Cactus Sanctuary 1
R

E
U

lens reflects humane consideration and ensures National Parks San Bartolo
BAJA
L

Baha quality pictures. A big chunk of a national park's revenue comes Baha de Las Palmas
A

Coyote Ta Lichas
CALIFORNIA El Coyote from entrance fees. While tour outfitters usually
A

Step out onto your balcony to


C

E
I. Coyote Los Barriles
Weather are responsible for paying their clients' fees, if
E
Punta Santa Teresa
O

watch the sunrise over the sea,


you are traveling independently, inquire locally CALIFORNIA EBuena Vista
N

Summer hurricanes get the publicity, but return inside for your traditional
Ba

SUR
C

where to pay. Coastal parks have a very limited Mexican breakfast (made by Ta
Nor testhe northerly gale-force winds of winter 19
h

1
Licha herself), and set out for a
on the Sea of Cortezare a bigger hazard to fleet of patrol boats, but you can help out by
P
a

SUR day on deserted beaches or


C

reporting park infractions such as a sea turtle


Co

San Buenaventura
D

E
small craft. Listen to AM radio. If Santa Ana ELa Ribera scenic mountains.
I

capture or a shrimp boats dragging nets in pro-


O
nc

San E Isla San Ildefonso winds are forecast in Southern California, SIERRA LA LAGUNA EPunta Colorada
Canyon La Trinidad
N

Sebastian
ep

Prehistoric cave paintings well prepare for Nor tes whistling down the Gulf, tected waters. Punta Arena
E

ci

6824 ft
worth the scenic yet challenging Baha especially during the months of January and 2080 m
on

PA CIF IC
K
canyon hike and river crossings to ESanta
get there. Your journey starts at Rosalita San Nicolas February. VHF and single sideband radios Visiting Archaeological Sites BIOSPHERE
broadcast the latest weather reports. Practice good etiquette at unprotected petro-
A

nearby Rancho la Trinidad to see Cadeje San Nicolas


OCE AN
E E
the larger-than-life figures, includ- gylph and pictograph sites: don't take rubbings Santiago
N

E
ing a giant red deer and human Cultural Differences or touch them with your hands. The oils on your
L

Punta
figure. Experienced guide required. Pulpito TROPIC OF CANCER Todos Santos Inn RESERVE Cabo CABO PULMO
Whether you're a local resident or foreign visitor, fingers can affect potential dating techniques
G U

Todos Santos E Tranquil 19th-century hacienda with Cabo Pulmo EPulmo


heated pool, gardens, and wine bar NATIONAL PARK
LA PUR ISIMA OASIS allow plenty of social leeway to avoid cultural and accelerate their deterioration. Instead of
A

Santiago
Picnic under date palm trees, swim in the misunderstandings. Visitors, carry a Spanish rubbings, use a camera to preserve the images Tour the rebuilt mission church. Visit
ERosarito
dictionary, or at least a guidebook with a good and shoot early or late, in oblique light, to SAN JOSE DEL CABO
L A

river, or stroll the village streets. Thirteen- the zoo and view parrots, coyotes,
hundred-foot rock formation El Piln beck- Meander the laid-back streets lined with reptiles, and native creatures.
language glossary. accentuate the design. colonial buildings, bougainvillea, and Miraflores E
Los Baha Los Frailes
ons serious rock climbers.
E
palms. Explore art galleries and boutiques. Frailes
Listen to live music on the town plaza.
G

IDAD

Caduano E
L A

SIERRA
LA TRIN

1
I

Sa

a
n
im

s
Jose

r
G

R R A

La Pu

Boca
E de
la Vinorama
A

1
S I E
FIDEICOMISO ESTATAL DE TURISMO BCS

San Juan E
1312 ft El Pilon Bautista Londo ESanta Catarina
400 m
K G
OASIS

ESan Isidro
PLAZA, SAN JOSE DEL CABO

San Jose Viejo E


ELa Pursima
T
LA PURISIMA

La Pursima Oasis
JULIO RODRGUEZ R.

San Jose ESan Jos del Cabo


del Cabo E
Playa 0 mi 15
A
EL PILON,

0 km 15

Baha San Jose del Cabo

FIN WHALE, BAJA CALIFORNIA COAST


FLIP NICKLIN / MINDEN PICTURES

Copyright 2007 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C. Visit www.discoverbajacalifornia.com and www.explorebajasur.com to learn more about points of interest in the Baja California region.

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