Travel

May - June, 2017

AWAY
WE
lost ANSiOns in iNDia
david salle returns to wichita
canvas art
| QR-20 | AED-20 | OMR-2 | BHD-2 |
| SAR-20 | CHF-6 | USD-5.5 | EURO-4 |
picasso meets giacometti
 Lookout Qatar Page 19
The making of Ermanno
Scervino's FW'17 collection,
14 This and That "Soldier of Love".
Graff acquires a 373.72-carat diamond; Art
29 features Emergeast; Officine Panerais
Riyadh collection; contemporary calligraphy
comes to Doha and more.

16 Market Report
Comfort and fluidity reign supreme
this festive season with kaftans that
bring tradition in fashion.

19 In Fashion
Pre-eminent Florentine designer and 31 On Retail
creative director of the eponymous fashion Mr Porters 101 on buying
label Ermanno Scervino talks about luxury watches online.
drawing a dress just one moment before a By Ayswarya Murthy
woman desires it.
By Ayswarya Murthy

Quality Qatar Arena Qatar

34 On Art
Without much fanfare, Qatar Museums brought
24 In Design together two iconic 20th-century artists for a
Giuseppe Santoni and Marco Zanini memorable exhibition that compares and contrasts
collaborate for a collection that is an their works.
antithesis to the commercialization of By Sandra Oomen
fashion.
By Debrina Aliyah 36 In Design
Plain monochrome sneakers transform into a
26 On Art moving art gallery at the hands of The Nou Project.
The accessories from Louis Vuittons By Debrina Aliyah
spring/summer 2017 collection get an
artistic interpretation through the brands
latest collaboration with the young French
artist Juliet Casella.
By Debrina Aliyah

PUBLISHER & Correspondents Team T, THE STYLE MAGAZINE THE NEW YORK TIMES PUBLISHED BY
Aarthi Mohan Mathews Cherian
EDITOR IN CHIEF Keerthana Koduru Denzita Sequiera OF THE NEW YORK TIMES NEWS SERVICES
Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish Sony Vellat Creative Director General Manager
ART Events Officer Patrick Li Michael Greenspon
MANAGING DIRECTOR & CEO
Ghazala Mohammed Managing Editor Vice President, Licensing and
Senior Art Director
Jassem bin Yousuf Al Darwish Accountant Minju Pak Syndication Oryx Publishing &
Mansour ElSheikh Pratap Chandran Advertising Co.WLL
Alice Ting
COMMERCIAL MANAGER Deputy Art Director Fashion Director P.O. Box 3272; Doha-Qatar
Sr. Distribution Executive Marie-Amlie Sauv Vice President, Executive Editor
Dr Faisal Fouad Hussien Albaz Bikram Shrestha Tel: (+974) 44672139, 44550983,
The New York Times News
Assistant Art Director Photography Director 44671173, 44667584
Distribution Service & Syndicate
EDITORIAL Ayush Indrajith Nadia Vellam Fax: (+974) 44550982
Arjun Timilsina Nancy Lee
Chief Editor Senior Graphic Designer Entertainment Director Email: info@oryxpublishing.com
Bhimal Rai
PICTURE COURTESY: ERMANNO SCERVINO

Ezdihar Ibrahim Ali Maheshwar Reddy Lauren Tabach-Bank LICENSED EDITIONS Website: www.oryxpublishing.com
Basanta P
Deputy Editor Photography Pradeep Bhusal Editorial Director
Ayswarya Murthy Rob Altamirano Anita Patil
Public Relations Officer Deputy Editorial Director
Fashion Editor Eslam Elmahalawy Alexandra Polkinghorn
Debrina Aliyah Secretary and Administrative Editorial Coordinator
Senior Correspondents MARKETING AND SALES Assistant Ian Carlino
Karim Emam Manager Marketing Reena Lewis Coordinator
Udayan Nag Sakala A Debrass Gary Caesar

COPYRIGHT INFO
T, The New York Times Style Magazine, and the T logo are trademarks of The New York Times Co., NY, NY, USA, and are used under license by Oryx Media, Qatar.
Content reproduced from T, The New York Times Style Magazine, copyright The New York Times Co. and/or its contributors 2015 all rights reserved. The views and
opinions expressed within T Qatar are not necessarily those of The New York Times Company or those of its contributors.

Copyright 2017 The New York Times 9

 Lookout Qatar

Market Report

One Thousand and One Kaftans

Comfort and fluidity reign supreme this Ramadan season
with kaftans that bring tradition in fashion.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF ADAM LIPPES; ESKANDAR; FOR RESTLESS
SLEEPERS; MARY KATRANTZOU.

16 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

 Opposite page: Clockwise from top left: Jacquard kaftan, Adam Lippes, QR8,265; Printed kaftan, Eskandar, QR3,160; Long jacket, For Restless
Sleepers, QR5,500; Butterfly kaftan, Mary Katrantzou, QR4,425. Current page: Clockwise from top left: Block print kaftan, Osman, QR4,035; Blue
kaftan, Taller Marmo, QR5,045; Cape kaftan, Zeus + Dione, QR4,285; Long robe, Zeus + Dione, QR3,970.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF OSMAN; TALLER MARMO; ZEUS + DIONE (2)

May-June 2017 17
 Quality Qatar

THE FINAL
By Design TOUCHES
It is an edit of a
very specific

Cutting Through the Noise

selection of
staples,
interpreted
according to the
Santoni spirit.

Giuseppe Santoni and Marco Zanini collaborate for a collection

that is an antithesis to the commercialization of fashion.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

WHEN MINIMALISM TOOK OVER the reins of the design industry, it became en vogue to have
stark living spaces that afforded us almost nowhere to put our feet up, literally. Obsessively up-
held by a niche group of purveyors, it quickly became a steadfast lifestyle for them and a passing
fad for everyone else who happily filled their living rooms with colorful ottomans once more. The
PICTURES COURTESY: SANTONI

same ottomans would have probably been thrown out by now, replaced by another of a familiar
shape in just a slightly different shade. We are creatures of habit when it comes to design, and we
tend to buy the same things over and over again. The tendency extends into the wardrobe why
else would you have fifteen pairs of jeans and twenty t-shirts when you really only regularly wear
one third of them? If the art of Zen had imprinted into the contemporary fashion sphere, it is most
recognizable through the works of Phoebe Philo and the Olsen twins. But a pared-down silhouette

24 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

and design philosophy still negates the impulsion to have multiple versions of
a similar garment. It is truly a difficult habit to break. But can two Italian vi-
sionaries turn the wheel on fashions multiplicity of products?
Next season, Giuseppe Santoni and Marco Zanini raise the flags of truth,
honesty and utility, in a charming yet introspective project that digs into this
problem that the duo refers to as meaningless multiplication. Stripping away
the frills, the project focuses on a series of classic items that have been edited
in shapes, materials and colors, resulting in a series of staples that are versatile
and timeless. A bold antithesis to the commercialization of fashion, Santoni Ed-
ited by Marco Zanini brings forth a subdued and fashion-free perspective to
luxury. It is not to propose a RTW collection, says Giuseppe Santoni. Under-
standably, that would defeat the core philosophy of the project. It is an edit of
a very specific selection of staples, interpreted according to the Santoni spirit,
he explains. The spirit, something Santoni inherently understands through his
immersive childhood in his father Andreas workshop, is one that lends to the
traditional sensibility and excellent craftsmanship of the 40-year-old shoemak-
ing brand.
Having Zanini as the protagonist of the project seemed like a natural fit as
the designers esthetics and distinctive trait appealed to Santoni. Their atten-
tion for the longevity of good product matches the widely-felt need for fashion
thats less superficial and volatile, Zanini explains. Zanini brought the vision to
life through the edit that is anchored by tailored outerwear, sportswear, knit-
wear, small accessories, shoes, and bags for both men and women. Materials
are luxurious, while cuts and colors are artisanal and classic, resulting in gar-
ments that transcend seasons and trends. Im in the fashion industry but I
consider myself 'out of the rules', as Im not interested in producing fast
products, Giuseppe says. This first edit sets the foundation for a system that
can further be redefined, something that the duo are hinting at for the future. I
think we have been able to propose something that currently doesnt exist in
the market, and Im already so excited about next season, Santoni quips.

RENEGADE SPIRIT
The spirit of the collection is one
that lends to the traditional
sensibility and craftsmanship of the
40-year-old shoemaking brand.

25
 Quality Qatar

A NEW TAKE
Juliet Casella's quirky perspective
adds a playful touch to Louis
Vuittons accessories set against
iconic Parisian backgrounds

On Art

Louis Vuitton Through an

Artist's Eyes PICTURES COURTESY: JULIET CASELLA

Accessories from Louis Vuittons spring/summer 2017 collection

have been given an artistic interpretation through the brands
latest collaboration with young French artist Juliet Casella.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

26 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

JULIET CASELLA'S QUIRKY PERSPECTIVE adds a playful touch to the
seven artistic pictures produced in a collage format featuring Louis Vuittons
accessories set against iconic Parisian backgrounds. The collages were
created at her studio in Paris. I always have a ton of ideas in my mind, some
unfinished, or not even started, but this makes me produce a lot. I kind of live
for this, creating all the time. I want to do everything, but unfortunately, I only
have two hands, the artist says. Casella is known for her colorful works
which blend urban life, architecture and oddity. I like building new spaces
through my collages, she says. My goal is to make it possible for everyone to
find their own story within my collages. Just 23 years old, her bold point of
view caught the attention of LVs Nicolas Ghesquire. The artist shares her
thoughts on the unique collaboration.
What key messages are you trying to communicate through your collages?
One of my main points of focus is to destroy the story of a picture and to
rebuild it in my own realistic way. I am always asking myself many questions
about the world my collages are answering some of them by creating a new
world. I wish people could find memories of their own stories within my work.
I love to play with memories. I do not consider myself as a surreal artist, my
collages are like photos; I show the truth. I would like them to bring a new
perception of reality.
How has Paris shaped your work and what does the city mean to you?
I started to produce these works when I was very young, but I was in a
small village in the south of France and there was not much access to art. So I
was very excited to head to Paris. I like to work with others and share ideas; I
think that together we learn faster, so it was cool to meet passionate people
like me. The city is very inspiring too; all the streets tell a story. You can walk
for hours and you will never find an ugly place. Paris is very special to me.
What are your favorite pieces from the new collection and why?
I think its the black Capucines (a Louis Vuitton bag); it represents the
Parisian girl still dressed in black and very chic. I can imagine a beautiful
girl, who waits for her taxi with this bag on her arm a true Parisian bag.
May-June 2017 27
Arena Qatar

In Design

Moving Art
Basic monochrome sneakers
transform into a moving art
gallery at the hands of The Nou
Project.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

FOR A DUO OF DESIGNERS whose first meeting occured at The Coachella Valley
Music and Art Festival, it only seems appropriate that the project that follows is one that
is as conceptual as it is filled with the spirit of urban and street hype. If a blank canvas
and the white sneaker by themselves are too mainstream for the current artistic
expression, putting them together gives a new perspective to the third eye. The idea
was to create a moving gallery that allows artists to work on alternatives and that allows
you to bring it wherever you go, says Nour Al Tamimi, one half of The Nou Project. Nour,
along with Basma Chidiac, thus created a simple yet ultra-chic sneaker silhouette in
white and handed it over to three artists to launch the first drop of the brand.
From English artist James Rawson, the sneaker is brandished with a rendition of his
2015 work Blue Semi-Auto a painting of a water gun on canvas that drew the
attention of the Nou duo at a time when gun violence was in focus. We discovered James
Rawson through a mutual friend, and were intrigued by his unique works that reflected
pop culture and his ability to connect to our generation, Basma explains. Saudi Arabian
artist RexChouks 2016 work, Rexstatic #3 brings urban vibes and hip hop culture to
the sneakers with a vibrant and colorful tinge that is both relatable and dreamy. Rex is
actually a good friend who moved to New York to pursue art as a contemporary
commentary on our system, says Nour. Mexican photographer and graphic designer
Nydia Lilian brings a monochrome perspective to the sneakers through manipulated
digital imagery. Her 2012 work Criss-Cross bridges between a clear and a confusing
composition at the same time, inviting the viewer to take a closer look and explore new
photographic techniques that delve into psychedelic compositions.
Though the three artists seem varied and global in origins and
influences, the designers maintain that the thread that ties
them together reflects the core value of the project a sense
of newness which also gives rise to the name of the
FROM ALL CORNERS
project, 'Nou', which means 'new' in Dutch. We want our The works of Saudi Arabian
buyers to feel like collectors. That they are able to collect artist RexChouk, Mexican
photographer and graphic
artwork from artists and give it life by wearing them on a designer Nydia Lilian and
moving canvas, Basma explains. The illustrated sneakers English artist James Rawson
are numbered and available in a limited three-hundred- are featured in this edition of
The Nou Project.
issue per artist, while the shoe is available in plain black,
white and nude as part of the classic line. For the sneaker
connoisseur, the high-top design is a Scandi dream with
minimal lines and stitching, and a smooth-to-touch
PICTURES COURTESY THE NOU PROJECT

grain leather. A reflective stripe divides the sole and

the body, and lights up when exposed to a camera
flash, while the grainy sustainable recyclable sole
is inspired by asphalt and street art. The duo are
currently looking at two seasons of artistic
collaborations per year and the collections
will soon be available at Level Shoes in
Dubai Mall.

36 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine