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HLNE DARROZE ON BEING FAMOUS FIZZ TAKE A
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NAMED THE WORLDS BEST FEMALE CHEF FUN-FILLED TOUR OF CHAMPAGNE
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TRAVEL | FOOD & WINE | CULTURE | HISTORY August 2015 | Issue 203
Where to stay
for a fantastic
activity break
Your perfect
Summer!
Hundreds of ideas for a heavenly holiday
ALL YOU NEED FOR
La Rochelle | Amboise | Brittany YOUR IDEAL TRIP
Dordogne Valley | Auvergne | Lyon The best places to stay
Where to eat out in style
Learn the language
Plan your flight, ferry
or train route
A French experience
T
he French are the first to recommend their Meanwhile, those who prefer to get active on
home country as a holiday destination, but a holiday (rather than laze by the pool) will enjoy
the way they plan and enjoy their holidays our selection of accommodation where you can do
can be different from us in the UK. In our everything from fly-fishing to walking with llamas.
Holiday like the French feature this month, we have If you like to indulge an interest in history, then
dug a little deeper into their holiday psyche and you will find Pierre de Villierss touching story
tapped into some exciting options for accommodation, about tracing his Huguenot heritage in the port of
touring and sightseeing. By adopting some of their La Rochelle really intriguing. I was amazed at
habits, you can find great-value places to stay, see how much he managed to track down, given that
some parts of the country that arent frequented by his familys story dates from the 17th century.
the British and meet up with French holidaymakers This issue we also have some very exciting
and practise your French. What better way to enjoy interviews, including Hlne Darroze, who has been
a truly authentic experience than that? named the worlds best female chef, and Vincent
To get to the heart of Brittany, join Paul Lamarra Lindon, who won the Best Actor award at the Carolyn Boyd
on a journey along the Nantes-Brest cycle route as he Cannes Film Festival this year. Editor
goes off the beaten track in this popular region, away Let us know what youre up to for your holidays,
from the summer crowds on the coast. and wherever youre going, bonnes vacances!
MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: DIDIER ZYLBERYNG/HEMIS.FR
CONTRIBUTORS
Mark Sampson Eleanor OKane Richard Mowe
Mark moved to south-west Freelance writer Eleanor is Richard is a journalist based in
France with his family in 1995 a former Editor of FRANCE Edinburgh and is the director
and he now contributes to UK Magazines sister title Living of the French Film Festival UK.
publications, including our France and still indulges her He has also received the
sister titles Living France and French Property love of lHexagone by taking regular trips French cultural honour of Officier dans lordre
News. On page 82, he finds the best places to across the Channel. On page 72, she retraces des arts et des lettres. On page 90, he meets
eat in the Dordogne Valley area of the Lot. the life of the architect Le Corbusier. award-winning actor Vincent Lindon.
36
WIN
GREAT PRIZES
TO BE WON
FIND OUR NEW SNAIL,
SERGETTE 20
TAKE A PHOTO 34
54
WRITE A LETTER 34
DO A CROSSWORD 97
TRAVEL
.
BON APPTIT
08 FRANCE AT A GLANCE 75 HLNE DARROZE
Let our stunning images take you on 54 HOLIDAYING FRENCH STYLE The worlds best female chef talks about
a whistle-stop tour of France. See France through the locals eyes and juggling a starry career and a family life.
enjoy a great experience this summer.
17 PRT PARTIR 78 FOOD & WINE
Plan your next trip with our round-up 62 LA ROCHELLE Get French goods delivered to your door,
of travel news and events, and route map. Join Pierre de Villiers as he explores his and savour our wines of the month.
Huguenot roots in the Atlantic port.
26 ROAD TRIP 80 THE PERFECT PEACH MELBA
DORLING KINDERSLEY/ALAMY; TOBY SHERGOLD; HLNE DARROZE AT THE CONNAUGHT
Visit historic towns and enjoy a glass of Rosa Jackson shows how to make this
bubbly on a drive through Champagne. Visit the Auvergne village that was once famous homage to an opera star.
a centre of commerce and the law.
36 ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS 82 EATING OUT IN HAUT-QUERCY
Find the best accommodation for making Get a residents eye-view of the best
the most of Frances outdoor pursuits.
JOIE DE VIVRE restaurants in the Dordogne Valley.
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ETERNAL LOVE
A 16th-century granite sculpture, possibly of a trader and his wife,
adorns a half-timbered building in the port of Vannes in Brittany
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIPPE RENAULT/HEMIS.FR
How to be
a Parisian
Paris-based Stephen Clarke gives his
humorous take on life in the capital
A
s a long-term resident of Paris, I know This small garden is named after Henri IV, the
that all of us here are very romantic green gallant who was still chasing the ladies even
types. We spend a ridiculous amount of at an advanced age which is romantic in
time gazing at sunsets, choosing bouquets an old-fashioned, macho Parisian way.
and whispering sweet nothings. The citys candle-to- Originally built in the 19th century and
dinner-table ratio is the highest in the world. completely renovated in the 1980s, the Pont des Arts
I say this because our reputation took a hit in is a historic monument. As anyone who lives in
June this year, when the so-called love locks were Stephen Clarkes an old Parisian building knows, the monument
removed from the Pont des Arts, and the vows of latest book is How historique tag is both a blessing and a curse. If your
thousands of couples were sent to the scrapyard. the French Won building gets class, no one can erect a skyscraper
In all the social media, there were howls of Waterloo, or Think next to it. On the other hand, if you so much as add
disapproval about Parisians sudden hard-heartedness. They Did, a dot of colour to the black railings of your balcony,
How could we, the Parisians, be so unfeeling? a light-hearted the city council will send out a Swat team to put
It is true that I didnt hear a single Parisian examination of things right. This protectionism is probably the same
complaining about the mass of padlocks being cut Frances enduring in every city. Imagine someone trying to insert
down from the railings on the bridge, where they fascination with a giant piercing into the Statue of Libertys nose.
had been steadily coagulating for several years. Napolon. Yet the Pont des Arts was slowly being engulfed
The kindest thing I heard any Parisian say about in 3D graffiti, its slim lines disfigured by a plague of
the tourists and their padlocks was, Cest mignon metal bubons. And it was all in the name of an idea
(Its cute). It sounds very positive, but it is also the kind of of romanticism whereby you declare your amour with the kind
thing you would say when a dog sits up on its hind legs and of lock you would usually attach to a toolshed to stop intruders
waves its front paws. stealing your lawnmower. Is that really so romantic? Not in my
The most common reaction was, Cest moche (Its ugly). book, and not in most Parisians livre, either.
Which it was. Leaving aside the idea of symbolising eternal love But if you come to Paris and are feeling romantic, dont
by fixing a cheap padlock to a fence and then polluting the worry. There are plenty of better ways to declare your affection.
Seine with its key, the bridge itself was being transformed Why not go to a caf within sight of the Eiffel Tower, order
from Pariss lightest, airiest river crossing into a shapeless mass a glass of your favourite tipple and then, exactly on the hour,
PHOTOGRAPH: NATACHA HENRY; ILLUSTRATION: TIM WESSON
of metal. at any time after dark, drink a toast as the tower bursts into
This was a tall, slender, pedestrian-only bridge in the very five minutes of scintillating light and its whole frame quivers
centre of the capital, the ideal place to stroll and get a view of against the night sky as if someone had bathed it in fluorescent
the Eiffel Tower to the south-west and Notre Dame cathedral to champagne?
the east. It was also the perfect viewpoint down on to the It will be far more memorable and far tastier than simply
Square Vert-Galant at the western point of the le de la Cit. clicking a padlock on the Pont des Arts. It also involves less risk
of the bridge collapsing under the accrued weight of 45 tons of
padlocks, and tipping you into a river that is usually not heated
Is it really so romantic to declare to a romantic temperature.
your amour with a lock that youd See our language section starting on page 94 for another view
normally attach to a toolshed? of the love locks controversy.
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PRT PARTIR
All the inspiration you need to
plan your next trip to France
United in celebration
T
he French love a festival at any time of year, but especially in
the glorious days of summer. One of the most intriguing is
the Festival Interceltique, a celebration of the Celtic cultures
of France, the British Isles and Spain, held annually in the
port of Lorient on the southern coast of Brittany. Thousands of
participants gather in traditional attire, all eager to acknowledge the
heritage that unites them.
The ten-day festival begins on Friday, 7 August, with a Breton
seafood supper, or kaoteriad, in the Port de Pche, which is
accompanied by maritime music. The centrepiece comes two days later
with the Grand Parade of the Celtic
PHOTOGRAPHS: OLIVIER CHOISY; MICHEL RENAC; DENOUAL COATLEVEN
FOODIE TRIP
If you enjoy the finest French
cuisine but like to work up an
appetite first, Cycling for Softies
has come up with the perfect
What to do in...
August
combination. It has launched three
BEST OF BERLIOZ Michelin-starred itineraries in
The commune of La Alsace (pictured), Burgundy and
Cte-Saint-Andr in the Isre Provence, where you explore these
dpartement is the birthplace beautiful regions on two wheels by
of the Romantic composer day and enjoy a gourmet dinner in
Hector Berlioz and the setting the evening. The five and seven-
for an annual festival in his night packages cost from 1,485pp
from five continents perform honour, being held this year based on two sharing and include
traditional music and dances from 20-30 August. Concerts accommodation in four-star hotels,
in a marquee and on street are staged in the courtyard of at least four dinners in Michelin-
parades in front of nearly the Chteau Louis XI and will starred restaurants, buffet
20,000 visitors. include a performance by the breakfasts, fully serviced bike hire,
Tel: (Fr) 2 54 85 35 16 Orchestre de la Garde luggage transfers and English-
www.festival-montoire.com Rpublicaine of the vast speaking assistants.
Symphonie funbre et Tel: 0161 248 8282
BRETON ROOTS triomphale for wind band. www.cycling-for-softies.co.uk
The fishing village of Smaller recitals are held in
Concarneau on the southern local halls and churches. DRIVE IN STYLE
coast of Brittany comes alive Tel: (Fr) 4 74 20 20 79 Ever wanted to drive an American
WORLD MUSIC in August with music, dance www.festivalberlioz.com classic car? Live the dream with
The town of Montoire in the and gouren Breton folk self-drive rental company Cross
Loir-et-Cher dpartement has wrestling. Dating back more STE SPLASH Channel Sports Cars, which has
held a folkloric festival every than 100 years, the Festival Water-jousting tournaments added a 1965 Ford Mustang
year since 1973. The Festival des Filets Bleus (pictured have been held in the port of Cabriolet to its fleet. Tour the Tarn
de Montoire (pictured above), below) is named after the Ste since the 17th century and Aveyron countryside of the
which runs from 11-16 traditional blue nets used by and the Festival Saint-Louis Midi-Pyrnes and take the exciting
August, aims to highlight the the village fisherman and will (pictured top) has become one 2.5-kilometre drive across the
importance of world peace be held from 12-16 August. of the biggest events on the Viaduc de Millau, one of the worlds
PHOTOGRAPHS: SUPERSTOCK; LAURENT GIRAUDOU/HEMIS.FR
and interaction between Tel: (Fr) 2 98 97 09 09 French Mediterranean coast. tallest bridges. A package including
cultures. Around 300 artists www.festivaldesfiletsbleus.fr From 21-25 August, three days car hire, insurance and
thousands of onlookers will four nights in quality hotels starts
once again line the towns from 1,875 for two people.
waterways to see jousters in Tel: (Fr) 5 63 94 58 31
traditional blue and red www.ccsportscars.com
costumes perch precariously
20
on small boats and use their
spears to try to knock their
opponents into the water.
Tel: (Fr) 4 99 04 71 71 minutes
www.tourisme-sete.com the length o
time Louis XIXf
ruled in 1830.
18 FRANCE MAGAZINE
READY TO GO
Motoring ahead
Driving in France is one of lifes great pleasures, but if youre taking your car
across the Channel this month, be prepared with our tips for a successful trip
O
ne of the UKs or cultural talk, with topics visit the revamped Manchester in his dishes
most popular ranging from the Battle of Art Gallery in Mosley Street (mains from
destinations Waterloo to the life of actress (tel: 0161 235 8888, www. 14.95).
with foreign Catherine Deneuve. manchestergalleries.org). Seek Round off
tourists, Manchester is Have lunch at 63 Degrees out the paintings by French your trip at
renowned for its football (tel: 0161 832 5438, Impressionist Pierre-Adolphe Montpelliers
rivalry and the long-running www.63degrees.co.uk) in the Valette, who taught in the (tel: 0161
British soap opera Coronation northern quarter. Run by the city (L.S. Lowry was among 832 3146,
Street, but in recent years the Moreau family from Paris, the his pupils), and a work by www.montpelliers.
city has been developing a real restaurant brings modern Paul Czanne. co.uk), a French-themed caf
French feel, too. French cuisine to the streets Follow your art-filled and bar in Back Turner Street.
For anyone interested in of Manchester with dishes afternoon with an early Pull up a chair and enjoy
improving their French including a millefeuille of dinner at swanky 47 King the live music while savouring
language skills, a visit to the salmon and red mullet with Street West (tel: 0161 839 a glass of your favourite
Alliance Franaise de Provenal ratatouille (mains 1929, www.47kingstreetwest. French tipple.
Manchester in Portland Street from 14.80, set lunch 18). com). Head chef Rod Francis Peter Stewart
(tel: 0161 236 7117, www. After lunch, head back combines French and British For more on the city go to
afmanchester.org) is a must. towards the city centre and flavours with a modern twist www.visitmanchester.com
ROUTE PLANNER
Plan your journey to France with our handy map and directory
FERRIES P&O Ferries Voyages-sncf.com Blue Islands easyJet Norwegian
Tel: 0871 664 2121 Tel: 0844 848 5848 Tel: 0845 620 2122 Tel: 0330 365 5000 Tel: 0843 378 0888
Brittany Ferries www.easyjet.com www.norwegian.com
www.poferries.com www.voyages-sncf.com www.blue
Tel: 0871 244 1400
islands.com Flybe Ryanair
www.brittany Stena Line
ferries.co.uk Tel: (ROI) 1 204 7777 bmi regional Tel: 0371 700 2000 Tel: 0871 246 0000
AIRLINES Tel: 0330 333 7998 www.flybe.com www.ryanair.com
www.stenaline.ie
Condor Ferries Aer Lingus www.bmi
Tel: 0845 609 1024 Tel: 0871 718 2020 Jet2 Swiss Int. Air
regional.com Tel: 0800 408 1350 Tel: 0845 601 0956
www.condorferries.co.uk www.aerlingus.com
RAIL British Airways www.jet2.com www.swiss.com
DFDS Seaways Eurostar Air France Tel: 0844 493 0787 Lyddair Titan Airways
Tel: 0871 574 7235 Tel: 0843 218 6186 Tel: 0871 663 3777 www.british Tel: 01797 322 207 Tel: 01279 680 616
www.dfdsseaways.co.uk www.eurostar.com www.airfrance.co.uk airways.com www.lyddair.com www.titan-
Irish Ferries Eurotunnel Aurigny Air Services CityJet airways.co.uk
Monarch
Tel: (ROI) 818 300 400 Tel: 0844 335 3535 Tel: 01481 822 886 Tel: 0871 405 2020 Tel: 0871 940 5040
www.irishferries.com www.eurotunnel.com www.aurigny.com www.cityjet.com www.monarch.co.uk
Summer holiday in
Cap Ferret
The Cap Ferret peninsula, west of Bordeaux, is one of Frances best-kept
secrets. With oyster farms, secluded beaches and cycle paths among
the pine trees, FRANCE Magazine guides you to its highlights
T
he best place to taste oysters is by the sea, and the of Cap Ferret and the other villages of LHerbe, Le Canon and
catch doesnt come fresher than among the oyster- Piraillan, you will be glad of this unspoiled, rustic character.
farmers huts in the Cap Ferret peninsula in Packed tightly together, with nothing more than narrow gravel
Aquitaine. As you sit outside one of the bistros that paths between them, these colourfully painted huts form
serves platters of iced oysters, sipping a glass of chilled white a wonderful maze. Vibrant hollyhocks, gladioli and geraniums
wine and looking out across the Bassin dArcachon, youll soon add to the idyll, while the piled-up crates and pallets are
realise why this is a destination so adored by the French. a reminder that these are working villages.
With pine forests, cycling trails and beautiful sandy beaches, After pottering around the villages and lazing on the beach,
Cap Ferret is the perfect choice if you want to relax for a week you can see the area at a faster pace by whizzing through the
or so. An ideal place to start a stay is with a visit to the trees, sand dunes and villages on a bike, or indeed a more
lighthouse. This red and white beacon peeps out over the trees modern two-wheeled transport, the electric Segway scooters
and provides a birds-eye view of the peninsula and the (gyropodes in French).
triangular-shaped bay. Climb its 258 steps to the top and You can venture out on to the water, too, with one of the
in one direction you get a fantastic view of the enormous many boat trips on the traditional pinewood pinasses. As well
Dune du Pyla Europes biggest sand dune across the bay as exploring the oyster beds, boats can take you out to the
(pictured above) and, in the other, the Atlantic coast. le aux Oiseaux, where two cabins stand on stilts when the tide
The lighthouse doubles as a museum, and interactive displays is high, and perch on the sand when the tide is low. With so
tell the story of the area and its oyster-fishing, explaining how much to do, or indeed so little for those who simply want to
boats navigate the complicated sandbanks in the bay. The relax, Cap Ferret makes the perfect escape.
lighthouse is in the village of Cap Ferret itself, the biggest
community on the peninsula, where youll find several oyster For more information on where to stay and what to visit, see
bars offering platters for lunch and dinner. The most famous www.lege-capferret.com
haunt is Chez Hortense, a beachside restaurant that is
something of an institution and proud of its history, which Eurotunnel Le Shuttle is the quickest way to the continent by
PHOTOGRAPH: FOTOLIA
dates from the 1930s, when tourism slowly seeped into the area. car. Book early and get the best fares to explore Cap Ferret.
Thankfully, Cap Ferret has managed to resist the Visit www.eurotunnel.com
commercialism of modern tourism due to strict conservation or call 0870 850 8133
rules that prevent development. Among the oyster-catchers huts to book your crossing.
1 3
2 4
Reims
Calais
Verzenay
Ambonnay
Chalons-en
-Champagne
Road TRIP
A journey through the Champagne region
takes in a land-locked lighthouse, historic towns
and, of course, a glass or two of bubbly
DAY ONE residence which, like the cathedral, is on
PHOTOGRAPHS: SYLVAIN SONNET/HEMIS.FR; DREAMSTIME; CHTEAUX & HTELS COLLECTION;
After dashing down the A26 autoroute the Unesco World Heritage list.
from the ferry or tunnel at Calais, stop
for the night in Reims at La Demeure des DAY TWO
Sacres B&B (rooms from 145, Next morning, after enjoying a buffet
tel: (Fr) 6 79 06 80 68, www.sawdays. breakfast of home-made pancakes and
JEAN-PIERRE DEGAS/HEMIS.FR; FRANCK GUIZIOU/HEMIS.FR
co.uk). The mansion is just 150 metres jams at La Demeure des Sacres, leave
from Notre-Dame cathedral and has Reims and head into the vineyards to the
luxurious, high-ceilinged rooms. south. Join the Montagne de Reims
Head out for dinner at Anna S: La Route du Champagne on the D7 and
Table Amoureuse 1 (6 Rue Gambetta, head toward Verzenay. En route, look
Troyes tel: (Fr) 3 26 89 12 12, www.annas- out for the Moulin de Verzenay, now
latableamoureuse.com) with menus from owned by the champagne house
29. Walk off dinner by admiring the GH Mumm, which holds drinks
amazing 13th-century cathedral in all its receptions there. You can walk up to the
illuminated glory, and the neighbouring windmill through the vineyards and the
Palais du Tau, a royal and episcopal views from the hill are sensational.
Langres
26 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com
EASY ITINERARY
5 7
6 8
Your next stop is Le Phare de stunning stained-glass windows 5 before push you along. You can choose from
Verzenay 2 (tel: (Fr) 3 26 07 87 87, seeing some of the citys other various itineraries (tel: (Fr) 3 25 87 67 67,
www.lepharedeverzenay.com), nine churches that boast beautiful www.tourisme-langres.com) and it costs
a lighthouse built to offer amazing views stained glass. Pop in to see the 18th- 15 for a half-day hire. If you take the
over the sea of vineyards, as its original century Apothecary of the Htel-Dieu-le- route out around Lac de la Liez east of
owner Joseph Goulet intended. Here Comte 6 , and admire the array of the town, reward your efforts with
you can learn about the making of painted medicine chests, jars and pill a meal at the Auberge des Voiliers
champagne, its traditions and legends, boxes (www tourisme-troyes.com). (tel: (Fr) 3 25 87 05 74, www.hotel-
and enjoy a tasting. Continue south on After lunch in the pretty courtyard of voiliers.com) while gazing out across the
the D26 through the vineyards to Le Valentino (menus from 28, tel: (Fr) water from its lovely terrace.
Ambonnay and have lunch at the 3 25 73 14 14, www.levalentino.com Head back to Langres 8 and spend
Auberge Saint-Vincent (menus from best to reserve in advance), its time to the afternoon exploring its narrow streets
12.50, tel: (Fr) 3 26 57 01 98, continue south on the A5 for just over and covered passageways with the help
www.aubergesaintvincent.fr). an hour to the walled town of Langres. of an audio guide. Book a table for
Afterwards, head south (D37, D3) Check into Le Belvdre des Remparts dinner at Le Cheval Blanc hotel-
to re-join the A26 near Chalons-en- chambre dhtes for two nights (doubles restaurant (menus from 36, tel: (Fr)
Champagne and continue for an hour to from 90, tel: (Fr) 6 77 14 77 26, 3 25 87 07 00, www.hotel-langres.com).
Troyes 3 , where you spend your second www.lebelvederedesremparts.com)
night. Book into the five-star La Maison and venture out to stroll around the DAY FIVE
de Rhodes 4 (rooms from 185, impressive ramparts, with their Rise early the next day and head
tel: (Fr) 3 25 43 11 11, www.maisonde panoramic views of the Haute-Marne homeward bound along the A5 and A26
rhodes.com) for a real treat and dine at countryside before returning to the B&B on the 4hr 30min trip to Calais and the
its gourmet restaurant (mains 34). for dinner (18/22). return Channel crossing.
Carolyn Boyd
DAY THREE DAY FOUR
Spend the morning exploring Troyes, Limber up for a morning of exploration Enjoy this article? Tell us where you
with its cobbled streets and half-timbered in the area around Langres on an electric would like your road trip to be and
houses. The hotel is near the 13th-century bike 7 . Not much effort is required well plan it out in a future edition.
cathedral, so start there and admire its going uphill, with the battery there to Email editorial@francemag.com
Charm offensive
France has come up with a 20-point plan to make foreign
tourists feel more welcome, as Paul Lamarra reports
F
ollowing a soul-searching of six reports compiled by, among ambassadors of France. If the visitor is
exercise, French politicians and others, three-Michelin-star chef Jol satisfied with his stay, he in turn becomes
tourist industry leaders have Robuchon and Mayor of Paris Anne an ambassador of our country.
come to a candid conclusion Hidalgo. Signalling a need to adopt the The biggest tourist bugbear
on the pleased-to-see-you front, France American Have a nice day approach to highlighted by the reports was the
could do better. hospitality, he highlighted 20 points that apparent difficulty in getting into the
It is a surprising admission for the required urgent action if the French centre of Paris from Charles de Gaulle
worlds most visited country and one government were to achieve its stated Airport, 30 kilometres to the north-east.
that has largely insisted on doing things aim of increasing visitor numbers from New arrivals are apparently bamboozled
its own way, despite the obvious 84.7 million to 100 million by 2020. by the signs, the difference between the
confusion caused to foreigners. Measures included signs in English mtro and the high-speed transit RER
The French government is worried at airports and railway stations, multi- network, and the ticket machines.
PHOTOGRAPHS: DREAMSTIME; SOLAL/SIPA/REX
that tourists are being put off by tales of lingual hotel staff, TGV train David Lebovitz, a Californian chef
snooty Parisian waiters, roundabouts announcements in English, information who has lived in Paris for 11 years and is
that you have to drive around at least kiosks and making it easier to get the author of My Paris Kitchen and
twice before knowing which direction to luggage on and off the mtro. The Sweet Life in Paris, told FRANCE
take and getting on the mtro to toile When we serve coffee or help Magazine that the airport was definitely
Charles de Gaulle (Arc de Triomphe) someone to find their way, its a service the top priority.
expecting to find the airport. one renders to another, but also to It is the first and last impression
Earlier this summer, Foreign Minister France, Fabius told the foreign press. that visitors have of Paris, he said.
Laurent Fabius announced the findings In front of foreign tourists, we are all There are no arrows to direct you to
FRANCE IS JUST A
CLICK AWAY AT
www.completefrance.com
M. Tea
knows
his wine
In her regular series,
Carol Drinkwater shares
a glass with a local caviste
C
annes might be the champagne-popping
epicentre of the French Riviera, but set
three kilometres inland is the elegant
village of Le Cannet. It is where the
actress Rita Hayworth took up residence, where the Sometimes another customer pops in and
artist Pierre Bonnard settled and where a museum Monsieur le caviste offers them the same attention.
honouring his work has recently opened. It is now Occasionally, wine producers drop by with a bottle
also home to a tiny establishment owned by or two buried within their jacket or in a bag.
a master of fine wines. Ludovic, give me your opinion. I watch in
Le Cannet is a discreet hillside settlement with fascination as the caviste uncorks the bottle, pours
splendid art-nouveau villas and sweeping views to a drop into a glass and then swirls the liquid around
the Mediterranean. It lacks the ostentation of Carol Drinkwater in his mouth.
Cannes and its residents tend to keep a low profile. is the best-selling An opinion is then forthcoming. He is always
Its one drawback used to be that the only place to author of The honest but never unkind. Light on the palate, not
buy a decent bottle of wine was at the butchers; Olive Farm series. bad for a soire with friends. Sell at 7.
that was until Monsieur Tea arrived. Her latest works Is this a local wine? I ask the customer. She
It was a Sunday morning when I first spotted the include the shakes her head. Where is it from? I press.
sign, directing me to fine wines. I parked outside paperback The The caviste smiles, knowingly. Its a champagne,
and went in. A youngish gentleman greeted me. He Only Girl in the isnt it? The young woman nods. Very light,
offered advice if I required it, but left me to browse World, set during slightly fizzy. It requires more body in my opinion.
the compact space, jam-packed with a glorious World War I. Is that why you recommend a sale price of 7?
variety of wines ranging from vin de table at 5 to Contact Carol at I want to know. I learn then that all wine houses
Grands Crus priced at several hundred. www.carol have quotas. If they produce above the quota, it
Welcome to the village, I smiled. Are you new drinkwater.com cannot be sold under their label. It must be sold as
to the coast? He shook his head. He had been the a vin de table, as an unnamed offering.
sommelier at the Majestic Hotel in Cannes. He Usually, the wine producers are satisfied with his
wrapped up my chosen bottles of wine and wished me assessment. It is a tricky business, Madame Drinkwater, the
a bon dimanche. I, in return, wished him success. merchant confides when we are alone again.
Since then, I have become a regular customer. He never I am taken aback that he knows my name. From credit card
forgets my preferences and usually has a chilled Pouilly-Fuiss slips, I suppose.
awaiting me on a Sunday morning after I have dropped my How could a wine merchant forget a regular customer
mother off at the church. I enjoy listening to stories of his called DrinkWater? he laughs.
wine-tasting visits to vineyards, his encounters at wine fairs, He opens a bottle, pours us both a glass. I like to make
ILLUSTRATION: RICHARD COLE
his tales of days and frequently long nights at the Majestic. friends with my customers. Drink with them, share the delights
of fine wine.
Occasionally, wine producers Thank you, I smile. And your name? He proffers his
drop by with a bottle or two card. Ludovic CHA, I read, and laugh out aloud.
Ludovic looks puzzled. CHA, I explain, comes from
buried in their jacket or bag a five-thousand-year-old Chinese word meaning tea.
Janice Mendoza
Ive just got back from Nice
its such an amazing place.
Say bonjour to...
Horsham French Club
Horsham French Club has been sharing its
Steps are well under way to establish love of all things French with the residents
a museum of Vichy regime memorabilia, of the West Sussex town for 27 years.
and the towns Left Radical MP, Grard The group was founded by French teacher
Charasse, is convinced that it is time to Elyane Dale and now has 70 members,
mark its past without celebrating it, who are a mixture of British Francophiles
not least in order to warn younger and French expatriates wanting to share
generations of what can happen without and discuss their love of France.
due vigilance. The group meets in the Roffey Millennium Hall at 8pm on the second Friday of
It has been significant that I have been each month from September to June. Meetings take the form of a presentation in
able to find items here in Britain for French on topics ranging from French painters to franglais, and are often given by
this museum that have not survived in visiting speakers. Games, quizzes and conversation follow the presentations, with
Vichy itself. French being spoken as much as possible to ensure that everyone, whatever their
Michael Meadowcroft level, has the chance to practise.
Leeds, West Yorkshire Highlights include a Bastille Day dinner and a soire de Nol with games and
a feast. Annual membership costs from 25 and visitors can come to individual
Divisive figure meetings from 4. The group plans to increase the number of events in the
Thank you for the illuminating and 2015-2016 season to attract even more members. www.horshamfrenchclub.org.uk
detailed feature on the Battle of Waterloo Do you belong to a group with French connections? Tell us about it by emailing
(FRANCE Magazine, June 2015, editorial@francemag.com or write to the address on the facing page.
issue 201). Considering that Napolon
Bonaparte posed such a threat to Europe
and that history has marked him down the victories of Napolon in London
as one of the worst tyrants that ever you remember only his defeats.
READER POLL
lived, it has never ceased to amaze me Mickie Wynne-Davies How often do you
how he continues to be so revered. Le Lavandou, Var, France
He is almost canonised on Corsica
fly to France on holiday?
his birthplace and certainly the Best of Brittany Always Often Sometimes Never
grandeur of Les Invalides in Paris, I loved reading your feature on Brittanys Fill in our online poll at:
where his tomb resides, is more worthy hidden beaches (FRANCE Magazine, http://flytofrance.questionpro.com
of a hero than a villain. July 2015, issue 202) because it brought
Perhaps the paradox could be back lovely memories of our first family
LAST MONTH WE ASKED:
explained by a remark I remember from holiday in France. Ten years on and
my days at the Secretarial College of the we are always visiting France; in fact, we How often do you return to the same
Lyce Franais de Londres. During one have become hooked and wont go holiday destination in France?
French geography lesson, the indomitable anywhere else!
lady who taught us commented: In Paris Leigh Richards Never
we have many places which celebrate Halesworth, Suffolk 8% Always
13%
Sometimes
22%
Often
57%
CYCLING
LAutre Vie, Gironde
The vineyard routes of Entre-Deux-Mers
may not be as famous as their northern
cousins in Saint-milion or those to the
west in the more prestigious estates of
Bordeaux, but for cyclists looking for
gentle rides through the vineyards, the
quieter roads around the village of
Camiran make an excellent destination
for leisure cycling.
Here, the boutique-style B&B LAutre
Vie is perfectly placed both as
a stopover for anyone cycling the Canal
des Deux Mers Velo trail from the
Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean,
and those making daily trips from
a fixed base.
If youre not arriving with your own
wheels, the Australian owners Vanessa
and Justin Parr can help to arrange
bike hire in nearby Sauveterre-de-
Guyenne, before sending you off with
a picnic in your basket or panniers.
Theyll welcome you back with a glass
of wine and there may just be a feast days off from cycling, horse riding and
ready on the barbecue after you have canoeing are available nearby as, of
cooled off in the pool. course, is that other important local
Indeed, LAutre Vie is a wonderful activity, wine-tasting.
place to wind down after an active day. The property is very accessible,
The B&B has four rooms: New York, being just off the D670 linking La Role
Sydney, London and Bordeaux, each to Sauveterre, and is a convenient base
styled on a place that the couple have for exploring the Bordeaux regions less
called home. New York is the well-known wine appellations. And
showpiece, with windows that run the there are few better ways to potter
full length of the room, making it along vineyard routes than on a bike.
possible to lie on the bed and gaze over Lynette Eyb
the vines and the valley beyond. Champ de la Grave
In the grounds, the private pool 33190 Camiran
and expansive decking area have Tel: (Fr) 6 46 44 79 41
a secluded feel as there are no www.autre-vie.com
neighbours within sight. On any Doubles from 100.
PHOTOGRAPHS: FOTOLIA; ADDITIONAL REPORTING: SHEENA HARVEY
Just as in the UK, the Dutch-owned atmosphere, and the wildlife encounters
parks in France offer comfortable include cycling in the forest and canoeing
accommodation and a range of indoor on the lake to look for deer and racoons,
and outdoor activities for all ages. The as well as snorkelling in the Cenote Pool,
fifth Center in the country opened at the with its tropical fish.
end of June at the Domaine du Bois aux Route des Trois Moutiers
Daims, half an hour south of Saumur. 86120 Morton
It takes up 260 hectares of a medieval Tel: (Fr) 8 91 70 16 00
hunting area and has been designed to www.centerparcs.com
safeguard the areas eco-diversity, Cottage for four people from 579
allowing visitors to experience nature for a week.
FISHING
Le Chambard, Haut-Rhin
The crystal-clear rivers and lakes of the
Vosges mountains in Alsace are popular
with anglers, and Le Chambard, in the
picturesque village of Kaysersberg, makes
an ideal base. You dont have to go it
alone, because catch-and-release fly
fishing can be arranged at reception with
local guide Eddy Zohner. Back on dry
land, the Sentier Pieds Nus provides an
unusual walking experience as you stroll
barefoot through the forest on a specially
made path. The hotel has 32
contemporary-styled rooms and suites,
and a two-Michelin-star restaurant. For CYCLING
a further a gourmet treat, hire a bike and Aux Quatre Saisons, Aude
explore the vineyards on the Alsace Wine When the Tour de France isnt passing
Route, which runs through the village. the front door of the Aux Quatre
PHOTOGRAPHS: FOTOLIA;
9-13 Rue du Gnral de Gaulle Saisons B&B, this corner of the Aude
68240 Kaysersberg dpartement in the foothills of the
Tel: (Fr) 3 89 47 10 17 Pyrnes is a peaceful place, with
www.lechambard.fr gentle hills and quiet roads. There is
Doubles from 174. plenty to keep experienced cyclists
happy, while still providing the solitude
that is seldom found in the more
famous cycling hotspots further south
and west. magazines, which recognised early on
Finding a destination with that it was an ideal biking base.
challenging routes for experienced The couple have extended the
riders while also keeping non-cyclists property so it now has three standard
and children in the group happy can double rooms with garden or mountain
sometimes be hard, which is why this views, and a garden room with French
area is ideal. There are lovely walks doors that open on to a private terrace
through the spectacular Gorges de (with sun lounger). An upstairs
Saint Georges, plus canoeing and apartment caters for families or
kayaking on the River Aude, which runs couples wanting a little extra privacy.
through Axat, where the B&B is based. Rooms are tastefully decorated
The village also has a large, open-air (Paul worked for an interior design
heated swimming pool, complete with company before moving to France),
waterslide and mountain views. with classic colour schemes and quality
When Paul and Val Bridgestock workmanship combining to ensure the
bought Aux Quatre Saisons 14 years building has kept all its original charm.
ago, it was an abandoned wreck. It was LE
quite by accident that they turned their 101 Route de Font Romeu
French renovation project into a B&B 11140 Axat
after a friend suggested that the layout Tel: (Fr) 4 68 20 14 67
might work as a chambre dhtes. It www.sudfrancechambresdhotes.com
proved prophetic, with the B&B winning Doubles from 50, apartment from
accolades in the French Petit Fut 60, including breakfast; under-tens
travel guide for three successive free. Home-cooked dinners available
years and being praised by cycling on request.
by woven grass fencing looking out over of his drawings is reproduced in a mosaic furniture, and natural stone and slate,
the reserve, and there is a swimming at the entrance. but with all the modern conveniences for
pool that blends into its reedbed 3 Quai de lAmiral Courbet a pleasant stay. Being that high up puts
backdrop. The dining room, which 06230 Villefranche-sur-Mer you in the midst of nature. You can sit
also provides superb views over the Tel: (Fr) 4 93 76 27 62 on the extensive balconies with your
Camargue marshes, serves food with www.welcomehotel.com binoculars and watch the tree
a Mediterranean influence. Doubles from 149, boat rental 1,150 canopy, or relax in a hot tub.
NEXT
Route dArles full day, 770 half-day. There are bicycles to borrow MONTH
13460 Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer for exploring the area. G R E AT
PLACES TO
Tel: (Fr) 4 90 97 61 59 Domaine de Puybton S TAY F O R
www.lesarnelles.com 24440 Nojals-et-Clotte A RELAXING
BREAK
www.arnellescamargue.com (riding Tel: (Fr) 6 30 64 26 00
and stables) www.chateauxdanslesarbres.fr
Doubles from 14, riding from 20pp. Treehouse for two from 200 per night.
W
hen I pulled over for lunch at the le aux Pies Surrounded by such unexpected activity it occurred to me
on the Nantes-Brest canal it had been a day that this old commercial waterway, which enjoyed just a few
and a night since my departure from Nantes. economically fruitful years at the end of the 19th century
I was cycling westwards through the centre of carrying mostly sand, slate and wood, had found a new purpose
Brittany on the canals towpath and, unlike much of my journey as a medium for adventure.
so far, it was a busy spot. Not stopping for lunch were the groups of students I would
There was a scramble for tables at the Marins dEau dOust encounter sporadically along the way. Full of bonhomie and
restaurant as a group of horse riders dismounted and an even relief that the baccalaurat exams were finally over, they were
PHOTOGRAPH: MMANUEL BERTHIER/HEMIS.FR
larger contingent of cyclists removed their helmets and leaned enjoying an adventure on their doorstep by cycling the canal,
their bicycles against the chestnut tree. Down on the jetty probably as far as Lac de Guerldan. They were overloaded with
canoeists, just as eager to bag their place, lifted themselves tents and home comforts, so progress was slow, but I envied
gingerly on to dry land. their freedom to stop for the night at will.
With such an influx of customers, service was slow and from Far fewer in number, and coming in the opposite direction,
my table on the terrasse I passed the time watching a pair of were those embarking on a pilgrimage from the port of Roscoff
climbers reach the top of the high granite crags on the far side of to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain. For them the
the wide waterway, neatly coil their ropes and then settle down canal and the towpath offered a long, convenient section of
to a picnic lunch on a sunny, if precarious, ledge. carefree walking that left plenty of room for contemplation.
My sedate adventure, motivated by curiosity as to what lay at junction with the north-south Canal dIlle-et-Rance my canal
the heart of Brittany, rather than on its splendid coasts, started gained a new charisma.
in the city of Nantes in neighbouring Pays-de-la-Loire. The trip From then on I was for the most part cycling with the River
would not take me as far as Brest, but to Pontivy, where I would Oust. Although its width was even and often bypassed by
leave the canal and follow the River Blavet south to Hennebont stretches of entirely straight and artificial waterway, it was
on the coast near Lorient. I reckoned it would take me five days essentially a natural and meandering river that gave a welcome
by bike to cover the 275 kilometres; a journey that lasted four sense of uncertainty as to what lay ahead.
weeks for barges when they were pulled by heavy horses. Beyond the le aux Pies I initially crossed an empty quarter
The le aux Pies (Magpie Island) near Saint-Vincent-sur-Oust where the towpath was effectively a causeway over an extensive
marked a distinct change in the journey west. On the first day, area of marshland and wet meadow know as the Grogne.
across the level terrain at the mouth of the River Loire, the Matted with goat willow and alder trees, it looked like
Nantes-Brest canal was green and motionless. The pedalling was a waterlogged and impenetrable morass, and was undoubtedly
easy and on the towpath between the curtains of trees that lined a safe haven for the deer and wild boar which lived within it.
both banks it was refreshingly cool, in contrast to the hot and The only wildlife apparent to me as I cycled along were dark
sticky conditions at the start in the city centre. green cormorants sunning themselves on toppled trees, and
It was very pleasant but I yearned for something more and statuesque herons that would occasionally flap clumsily into
I was grateful that beyond the abbey town of Redon and the flight. Almost as motionless were the fishermen, spaced
I had timed my arrival to coincide with the Thursday town was upon me and the fatigue departed. Rounding what
morning market that fills the medieval core and large car park I thought was just another bend in a seemingly endless series, the
beyond. Pushing my bicycle up the narrow street to Place du Chteau de Josselin and its three towers loomed before me. Such
Bouffay the atmosphere was so convincingly medieval that was the sight of the walls rising in one graceful motion out of
I half-expected to encounter frolicking jesters and pens full of the rock to its high turrets that I wobbled trying to take it all in.
live pigs. Against my fanciful expectations, the reality of stalls It was already late afternoon and the quayside below the
selling kitchen implements and nightwear was rather more chteau was busy with canal boats, their crews languid in the
mundane but the square, with its stone and half-timbered hot sun, waiting patiently to enter the locks while the much
townhouses on three sides and 12th-century church on the more energetic kayakers nudged around the top of the weir to
other, evoked memories of centuries of weekly markets. catch its cooling spray. Josselin and refreshment lay at the top of
Carvings on the church suggested that Malestroit was very the steep road that rounded the base of the chteau ramparts.
familiar with acrobats and drunkards. Ordering a beer at the bar-restaurant Le Guethenoc, on the
shady side of the square, I savoured a breather before exploring
the town. The chteau, so impressive from the canal, was no
The square, with its stone and more than a faade when viewed from the town.
timber-framed houses, evoked Five of the nine towers were flattened on the orders of
Cardinal Richelieu in 1629 because its owner Henri de Rohan
memories of centuries of markets was the leader of the Protestant Huguenots. It was hard to
imagine the grave events that took place in what it is now the
Moving on from Malestroit was difficult. I finally remounted tranquil heart of Brittany, but the chteau at Josselin was
and headed west for Josselin, but only after a lunch of goats a powerful reminder. The most interesting artefact within its
cheese, tomatoes and a baguette bought from the market and walls was the table on which Henri IV signed the Edict of
eaten at the shaded picnic site between the river and the canal. Nantes a controversial pact that granted French Protestants
This 25-kilometre stretch was uneventful. The church on the freedom of conscience in 1589.
outcrop at the Roc Saint-Andr was a rare instance of drama, When I left Josselin for Pontivy I was also about to swap the
but it came too soon to merit a stop. I was, however, willing to River Oust for the River Blavet, and it entailed a long climb to
make a short tour from the towpaths compelling trajectory to conquer the high ground between the two. I had planned on
visit Saint-Gobrien and its 11th-century church that was once counting through the 72 locks between the towns, but lost count
sought out by lepers looking for a cure. quickly as there were more than 20 in a stretch of canal less
As I approached Josselin and the headwaters of the River than five kilometres long. The large holding areas were
Oust, the canal was noticeably climbing. While the locks grew a testimony to the long waits boats encountered to negotiate
deeper and closer together, my legs grew tired. Suddenly, the the staircase of locks.
Huge raindrops at first brought relief from the heat and the
dust, but they were to herald a storm that did indeed live up to TOURIST INFORMATION: Brittany tourist board,
its red warning. With moments to spare I propped my bicycle www.brittanytourism.com; Canals de Bretagne,
against a wall and sheltered in a caf while the heavens inflicted tel: (Fr) 2 23 47 02 09, www.canauxdebretagne.org. The Nantes-
a furious bombardment on Hennebont. It was an unexpected Brest canal is now part of the Vlodysse route between Roscoff
climax to my mostly sedate adventure. and the Spanish border at Hendaye, www.velodyssey.com
C
harles VIII is younger than he looks in his portrait, learning about the complex history of Amboise, which was
and taller than I expected. As he descends the developed by Charles VIII in the late 15th century. Grgory
staircase in front of me, his black cloak flutters in sorry, I mean Charles, for he stays in character the whole time
the breeze blowing in from the door of the tourist leads me out into the sunshine and over the road where the
office. He smiles and greets me with a bonjour. In other River Loire is gliding gently by.
circumstances, I should probably curtsy, but today King Charles As we walk beside the river, looking out towards the le
isnt holding court, or goading Italy into a battle, he is dOr in the middle, Charles explains how he came to be king
showing me around his hometown of Amboise. aged 13 in 1483 and reigned for just 15 years before his death
Charles or rather Grgory is one of the guides at the at the tender age of 27. It is a torrid tale of broken engagements,
tourist office, while the others are dressed fittingly as Anne de arranged marriages, Italian wars and ultimately a tragic end
Bretagne, Charless queen. Its a fun way to spend an hour involving a bump to the head on a low door lintel on his way to
MAIN PICTURE: The Chteau Royal dAmboise; TOP RIGHT: Grgory, the
modern-day Charles VIII, and a painting of his real-life counterpart
a tennis match. His untimely death has gone down in lore, and Charles explains
but Charles is keen to explain that his death could easily have how he was the great
had a more sinister cause, such as poisoning (apparently architect of Amboise.
he was very small in stature, so unlikely to have bumped his He was born in the
head on a doorway). chteau, which at the
Despite his short life, and his reputation for being rather time was a medieval
hapless his father Louis XI deemed that his formidable older fortress. But having been
sister Anne should reign as Regent until Charles came of age inspired by his conquests
he had a lasting impact on France. His marriage to Anne de in Italy, Charles
Bretagne in 1491 bound the union between France and transformed it into the
PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICK ESCUDERO/HEMIS.FR; TOBY SHERGOLD; MASTERPICS/ALAMY
Brittany, and his quest to secure his right to the Neapolitan palatial residence we see
throne (which had been bequeathed to his father) brought today. Walls and pillars
with it the influences of Renaissance architecture to Amboise were enhanced by the stonemasons and craftsmen that he
and the rest of France. brought back with him, and at the front he added the Tour des
Charles leads me back towards the centre of the town and Minimes, a tower with a ramp rather than stairs so that
in among its narrow medieval streets, pointing out the few horsemen could ride up to the top. Being without his trusty
buildings that remain from his day. Sandwiched between some steed today, Charles and I walk up the ramp inside the tower
shops, the Tour de lHorloge straddles the street. Charles and emerge into a beautifully manicured courtyard with the
explains that this was once the gateway to the town, while in white stone chteau perched elegantly in the corner.
the bijou glise Saint-Florentin, Charles points out that the To the rear, an area of beautifully round topiaries leads up
stained-glass windows replaced the originals, which were to the gardens behind. As we lean over the perimeter wall to see
destroyed during World War II. It is a charming little chapel, the town below, Charles explains how Amboise became home
sitting modestly among the shops. to the most famous Italian artist of all Leonardo da Vinci.
This is in contrast to the chteau, which well and truly He arrived during the reign of Franois I, some years after
dominates the town. Charles leads me to its side, to admire the Charless unfortunate altercation with the door lintel, after the
walls from underneath. We peer up under the pretty balconies king had captured Milan and its surrounding area at the
SAME
PLACE,
DIFFERENT Paddling about on
PACE
the River Loire you how some of the furniture was designed to be taken
One of the best views of Amboise is from the River Loire, so why not on tour. Monarchs were moved every ten days by their
admire the chteau and the surrounding town in all its majesty from entourage, which in Franois Is case numbered some 10,000
a boat? If you want to take it easy, you can book a trip on people. Further rooms describe how the chteau also welcomed
a traditional sailboat. With just 12 seats in each, the boat trips run by Kings Louis XIII and XIV, how it was used as a state prison
Millire Raboton do a choice of cruises, either for sunrise, sunset or and how it became the house of the Penthivre-Orlans family
a lunchtime picnic on one of the small islands along the river. Day after it was inherited by Louise-Marie-Adelade of Bourbon,
trips cost 20 for adults, while dawn or sunset trips cost 36. the great-granddaughter of Louis XIV.
(tel: (Fr) 6 88 76 57 14, www.milliere-raboton.net). Various owners have made changes to the chteau and it is
If youd rather get your muscles moving with a trip on the river, now five times smaller than in Charles VIIIs day. However, the
why not take to the water in an open canoe or kayak? Several periods of neglect and subsequent demolitions are nothing
companies offer canoe and kayak hire either down the River Loire compared to what happened at the Chteau de Chanteloup, just
from Amboise, or nearby on the River Cher, where you can see the outside the town, which has all but disappeared.
elegant arches of Chteau de Chenonceau (pictured) spanning the Built in 1713, the chteau later became the residence of
river (tel: (Fr) 6 37 01 89 92, www.canoe-company.fr). tienne-Franois de Choiseul, Louis XVs chief minister, until
the kings courtesan Madame du Barry had him dismissed.
Wings, pavilions and colonnades were added by the highly
regarded architect Louis-Denis Le Camus from 1761 and the
resulting estate, set in stunning 325-hectare gardens, was
compared to Versailles. The cherry on the cake a Chinese-
style pagoda was added in 1775; the pagoda, along with
a lake, two gatehouses and the caretakers house are all that
Francofile
Take your own royal
tour of Amboise
GETTING THERE
Amboise is three hours
drive from Caen and five
from Calais. Carolyn and her WHERE
family travelled by ferry to TO EAT
Roscoff, which is 4hr 30min Le Lion dOr
from Amboise. Brittany 17 Quai Charles Guinot
Ferries has crossings from 37400 Amboise
Plymouth to Roscoff for Tel: (Fr) 2 47 57 00 23
244 for four people taking www.liondor-amboise.com
a car and sharing an en-suite Gastronomic restaurant by
cabin (tel: 0871 244 1400, the river, menus from 17.
www.brittanyferries.com).
See page 23 for more travel La Fourchette
details. 9 Rue Malebranche
37400 Amboise
WHERE TO STAY Tel: (Fr) 6 11 78 16 98
Les Fleurons Tiny but popular restaurant
20 Rue de la Concorde hidden in the backstreets.
37400 Amboise
Tel: (Fr) 6 76 93 92 82 FOR AN APRO
www.lesfleurons-amboise.com Chez Bruno
Charming B&B owned by 38-40 Place Michel Debr
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The museum at the Chteau du Clos Luc; British expats Tim and 37400 Amboise
The Tour de lHorloge straddles the pedestrianised Rue Nationale; Carolyn Knowlman, who Tel: (Fr) 2 47 57 73 49
The Pagode de Chanteloup just outside Amboise converted the towns www.bistrotchezbruno.com
17th-century library into Opposite the entrance to the
survive. As you stand at the top of the seven-storey folly (having a four-room chambre chteau, this small wine bar
climbed a set of very rickety stairs) and look out over the lake, dhtes. Doubles from 145 has an excellent selection of
the park and the landscape beyond, it is almost impossible to per night (min. two nights). wines and a few tables for
believe that the chteau ever existed at all. evening meals.
After Choiseul died in 1785, the estate was sold to the Duke Le Manoir Les Minimes
of Penthivre, and then again in 1802 to Jean-Antoine Chaptal, 34 Quai Charles Guinot ATTRACTIONS
a chemist and minister to Napolon I. After Chaptal tried to sell 37400 Amboise Chteau Royal
it two decades later, it fell into the hands of La Bande-Noire. Tel: (Fr) 2 47 30 40 40 dAmboise
The so-called black pack was a group of asset-stripping www.manoirlesminimes.com 37403 Amboise
syndicates who dismantled chteaux in the aftermath of Elegantly decorated manor Tel: (Fr) 2 47 57 00 98
the Revolution and sold the materials as building supplies. house hotel with rooms from www.chateau-amboise.com
They must have made a fortune because not even the 97.30, breakfast from 16.
foundations remain. In one of the gatehouses, an exhibition Chteau du Clos Luc
displays computer-generated graphics of how the chteau would Chteau de Breuil 2 Rue du Clos Luc
have looked and its fate seems even more astonishing. 37310 Chedigny 37400 Amboise
With two chteaux within Amboise and so many others Tel: (Fr) 2 47 92 55 88 Tel: (Fr) 2 47 57 00 73
surrounding the town, a visit to the pagoda is a welcome www.sawdays.co.uk www.vinci-closluce.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: DREAMSTIME; TOBY SHERGOLD
antidote to the chteau shuffle that visitors can so easily Self-catering chteau 30
experience. The boating lake and the small Chinese garden offer minutes south of Amboise Pagode de Chanteloup
quiet spaces to escape the crowds and there is also a collection and ideal for exploring the 37403 Amboise
of old-fashioned games on display. I spend an hour or so Loire Valley. Sleeps 8-14, Tel: (Fr) 2 47 57 20 97
playing quoits, hoopla, skittles and croquet and getting a feel from 1,000 a week. www.pagode-chanteloup.com
for what it was like to be a child from centuries gone by (no
iPads here). While there are no costumes to add to the mix, TOURIST INFORMATION: Val dAmboise tourist office,
Im sure Charles, or rather Grgory, would be impressed tel: (Fr) 2 47 57 09 28, www.amboise-valdeloire.com;
at my efforts. Loire Valley tourist board, www.loirevalleytourism.com
I
ts August, which in France means les grandes
vacances, when Paris empties and the Cte dAzur
fills up. When it comes to holidaying in France,
the first people to recommend the idea are the
French themselves, with only one in eight venturing
outside lHexagone.
For some, the annual congs are a ritual experience
that spans several generations; grandparents and parents
try to give their own broods the happy holidays they
once had and some families will have their favourite
haunts to which theyll return year after year. Some of
these destinations will be seaside resorts which much
like their British counterparts have a timeless appeal.
For others, meanwhile, the annual holiday is a chance to
explore new corners of this huge country; nowhere is
off limits with a motorhome, tent or the wonderful
array of unusual accommodation now available
across the country.
Yet wherever they stay or wherever they visit, the
common denominator is that it is a holiday. It is
perhaps the most tangible instance of the Republican
spirit no one misses out, regardless of budget. This
means that by adopting some of the French ways in
organising holidays, you can save money, eat well and
see France as the locals do, and what could be more
authentically French than that?
SAINT-VALERY-SUR
SOMME AND LE CROTOY:
At the wide mouth of the
River Somme on the north
coast youll find the
charming twin resorts of
Saint-Valery-sur-Somme
(pictured) and Le Crotoy.
Both are very popular with
the inhabitants of Lille and
Amiens, and the hotels and
self-catering fishermens
cottages are always
busy in summer. A steam
railway and a cycle path
mean you can easily swap
Saint-Valerys history for
Le Crotoys long, sandy
beach. The treat in both is
to gorge on fresh unshelled
seafood served straight on
to paper place mats; its
messy but a lot of fun.
RSIDENCES Meanwhile, companies such as dAzur, Lagrange has Les Terrasses des
After World War II, when it was finally Lagrange (tel: 0207 371 6111, Embiez (240 a week) close to Six-Fours-
accepted that everyone needed www.lagrange-holidays.co.uk) and les-Plages. Pierre & Vacances is offering
a two-week summer holiday, Bonnes Pierre & Vacances (tel: 0870 026 7145, a two-bedroom apartment (pictured
Vacances Comrade rsidences spread www.pierreetvacances.com) have below) at its Cap Estrel village club
rapidly across France, providing cheap developed this original model and offer from 613 a week and, nearer to home,
and unfussy accommodation for the a huge variety of options from city apartments from 574 a week at its
newly empowered worker with a holiday apartments to ski chalets, and Belle Dune resort on the Baie de Somme.
voucher from his paternalistic employer. self-catering villas to mobile homes. For many French families the
The tradition of holiday villages is still When it comes to traditional seaside rsidence continues to offer the perfect
alive and well, and although cost-saving accommodation, many rsidences are combination of self-catering and
came before comfort in the early days, found in resorts which are little known socialising around the communal
the accommodation is now affordable outside France and therefore can offer swimming pool, playing games in the
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAN WLODARCZYK/ALAMY; FOTOLIA; OLIVIER LECLERCQ/HEMIS.FR;
and comfortable. Indeed a majority of a sea view or at least a property near the surrounding green space in a continuing
sites include pools, and some have beach at bargain prices. On the Cte spirit of comradeship.
flumes, saunas, golf and boating.
For the most authentic holiday village
experience, opt for the Villages Vacances
Famille (tel: (Fr) 4 73 43 00 43, www.
vvf-villages.com), which were established
in the 1960s and originally offered
a bare-bones approach of bed, table, four
chairs and functional kitchen. Nowadays,
the apartments and chalets are comfier,
with at least a sofa and a TV, but French
people are still happy to make their own
bed and bring washing-up liquid and
toilet rolls in the knowledge that it helps
to keep prices low.
T
he Globe de la Francophonie public artwork in
La Rochelle is the sort of attraction that you need to
track down. Placed on a rather isolated stretch of the
Esplanade Saint-Jean dAcre in the Vieux-Port, the
metal orb pays homage to French-speaking nations and features
the inscription: Through the French song, its our culture, our
language and poetry that go around the world.
The words, by former mayor Michel Crpeau, neatly sum up
why I find myself in the capital of Charente-Maritime for the first
time. Im here to learn about the people who carried French
culture, language and poetry all the way to South Africa, the
country of my birth. Im here to dig for my Huguenot roots.
As far back as I can remember, having French heritage has
been a big deal in my family. To go with my very French
surname of De Villiers, my parents picked a very French name
Pierre. My sister is called Rochelle. The reason we have names
that are more Calais than Cape Town is due to the Huguenots
French Protestants following the theological traditions of Jean
Calvin who, in the 17th century, fled to all parts of the world to
escape religious persecution.
Many moved to the Netherlands, from where a handful
travelled to the Cape of Good Hope as part of a recruitment
drive by the Dutch East India Company to bring skilled farmers
to its trading post in southern Africa. One such Huguenot was
my ancestor Jacques de Villiers who, on 6 May, 1689, arrived in
the Cape with his brothers Abraham and Pierre on board the ship
Zion after an arduous four-month journey. What happened next
is part of De Villiers family lore, as Jacques (aka Jacob) and his
siblings thrived under the African sun, planting more than 40,000
vines and introducing wine to South Africa.
It is what transpired before they arrived that is more difficult
to piece together, as Im discovering on a piping hot day in
La Rochelle. I have started my search for answers in the French
city because of a letter. Written in 1688 by the Chamber of Delft,
the document well-known among South African genealogists
allowed the De Villiers brothers to travel from Holland to
Africa and earn their living as free men. It describes the trio as
experts in the laying of vineyards and mentions that they were
born near La Rochelle. Given its importance to the Huguenots,
it makes perfect sense that the De Villiers dash for freedom
would have started in this most fascinating of seaports on the
Atlantic coast of France.
Stroll around La Rochelle and it becomes clear why its
known as the Ville Blanche. As rays of sunshine hit the limestone
faades of buildings, the city positively shimmers. The fact that it
was one of the most important ports during the Renaissance is
reflected in delightful arcaded walkways, timber-framed houses
and the impressive town hall (which was badly damaged by fire
in 2013). The heart of the city is the Vieux-Port a beguiling mix
of seafood restaurants, sailing boats and show-stopping sights
such as the three iconic towers (Tour de la Lanterne, Tour
Saint-Nicolas and Tour de la Chane), which acted as the first line
of defence against invasion from the sea. They are imposing
reminders that this White City was once stained by years of wars
PHOTOGRAPH: FOTOLIA
While La Rochelle is steeped in history, it also likes to go forward at lighthouse on the Atlantic Coast. From the top, the pretty vistas
a rate of knots; whether its sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, are in stark contrast to the dank, gloomy interior where names
helicopter rides or skydiving. The cole de Voile de lASPTT and pictures carved into the rock walls tell of the misery of those
La Rochelle (www.larochelle.asptt.com) offers year-round sailing held prisoner over the years. The Tour de la Lanterne is where
lessons or, if you prefer paddle power, hire a kayak at Antioche the Huguenots murdered 13 Catholic priests in 1562.
Kayak (www.antioche-kayak.com) and explore the coastline. Down the road I find more evidence of Huguenot religious
Landlubbers may want to hop on a Segway electric scooter at fervour at the Cathdrale Saint-Louis in Rue Pernelle. Attached to
Mobilboard Segway (www.mobilboard.com) or hire a motorised the cathedral is a Gothic bell tower the only remaining part of
tricycle at the tourist office (www.larochelle-tourisme.com) that the glise Saint-Barthlmy, destroyed by Huguenots in 1568.
takes you on a 38-kilometre route past parks, gateways and bridges. The same year the Protestant-dominated city declared itself
When the weather is fine you can see the sights from a helicopter an independent Reformed Republic, which led to conflict with
with Bat Air Atlantique (www.heliberte.com). Go one further and jump the Catholic government. Growing tensions eventually led to the
out of a plane with Altitudes Parachutisme (www.parachutisme.net). city being besieged by Louis XIIIs forces from 1627-28,
If you prefer slightly more sedate thrills, experience the joy of a stand-off that produced one of the Huguenots greatest heroes.
drift boat fishing, with a professional guide from YD Fishing In Place de lHtel de Ville, I spend some time with Jean
(www.ydfishing.fr) showing you how to reel in bass and pollack. Guiton, the citys mayor during the siege. Guitons statue captures
Children, meanwhile, will be able to burn off energy in bumper cars the bloody-mindedness of a man who helped La Rochelle to hold
and bouncy castles at Mini-Golf du Mail (www.minigolf-larochelle.com). out against the royal forces for 14 months. Cape blowing in the
To complete an active day head for Place du Commandant de la wind and with his hand gripping a rapier sword, he strikes
Motte Rouge and take in stunning panoramic views of La Rochelle a heroic pose straight out of an Alexandre Dumas novel.
from the Grande Roule, the citys answer to the London Eye. Despite Guitons efforts, La Rochelle surrendered after famine
and disease saw the population plummet from 27,000 to just
HUGUENOT
HOTSPOTS
LE MAS SOUBEYRAN: This beautiful hamlet in
the Cvennes mountains was an important location
for the Protestant resistance in the 17th and 18th
centuries. It is home to Le Muse du Desert (www.
museedudesert.com) which focuses on the Desert
period in Huguenot history between the revocation
of the Edict of Nantes and the French Revolution.
LEM: This town in Picardy has a Calvinist temple
built in 1853 and restored in 1990 by volunteers.
It is now a museum (www.musee-leme02.fr) that
looks at the origins of Protestantism and its
development in the surrounding Thirache area,
one of the first to accommodate Calvinism.
NOYON: The house in the Picardy town where
Jean Calvin was born in July 1509 was destroyed
during World War I but has since been restored and
now houses the Muse Jean Calvin, celebrating the
La Rochelle surrendered after famine theologians life (www.ville-noyon.fr).
and disease saw the population NMES: The capital of the Gard dpartement was
the intellectual and educational centre for the
plummet from 27,000 to just 5,000 Huguenots during the Reformation. The Grand
Temple has been a place of worship for Protestants
5,000. As part of the peace accord the Huguenots were able to since 1803.
keep their religious freedom as laid down by the Edict of Nantes, ORTHEZ: Jeanne dAlbret, mother of Henri IV and
a 1598 proclamation by Henri IV granting Protestants a Huguenot leader in her own right, lived in this
considerable rights. However, the Huguenots were severely town in the Pays Barn province of the French
weakened by the conflict and were powerless to stop Louis XIV Pyrnes. The eponymous museum in her former
from revoking the edict in 1685 and persecuting Protestants. home (www.museejeannedalbret.com) is devoted to
As conditions became intolerable in La Rochelle many families Protestant history.
looked to escape from France; families like the De Villiers clan.
To find evidence of my ancestors fight and flight in La Rochelle
I visit the Muse Rochelais dHistoire Protestante in Rue
Saint-Michel, devoted to the history of Protestantism in the area.
It is laid out around a courtyard next to a church once used by
Catholic monks before it was offered as a place of worship for
Protestants in 1798. Inside I find intriguing Huguenot artefacts:
a collapsible pulpit used during clandestine sermons bronze
portraits of Calvin, baptism documents and collection boxes.
What it doesnt have is any record of the De Villiers family,
but given the destruction wrought on Huguenots and their places
of worship in La Rochelle, that is not altogether surprising.
A helpful museum worker points me in the direction of the
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIERE DE VILLIERS; GILLES RIGOULET/HEMIS.FR
O
n a summers Sunday afternoon, Charroux-en-
Bourbonnais, a Plus Beau Village north of Clermont-
Ferrand, was busy with day-trippers, so parking on the
edge of the village was at a premium.
A momentary downpour, which had sent the craftspeople
manning their stalls in the narrow streets scuttling for shelter, had
passed and the hot sun was causing steam to rise from every
surface. The cobbles under my feet were slippery and awkward,
and most people found that the only way to walk with comfort was
through the medieval drainage channel that ran down the centre of
the streets, which meant I had to jostle for right of way.
It was a serendipitous insight into what Charroux might have
been like in its medieval heyday. Then its population was more
than ten times its current 350 and as a centre for both commerce
and judicial matters its medieval
confines must have been full to the
point of claustrophobic most days of
the week.
As I looked at my map to take in
the street names I realised that in such
a humid atmosphere the medieval
stench would have been overwhelming.
Rue de la Boucherie (butchers) led to
Place dArmes and then into either Rue
des Fosss (moat) or through the
archway of the Porte de lOrient to
turn left into Rue de la Poulaillerie
(chicken house). Add into that mix the
odorous activities taking place on Rue
des Tanneurs (tanners) and Rue de la
Ferraillerie (blacksmith) at the very
centre of this tightly packed street
pattern and a new assault on all the senses would have been
guaranteed at every corner.
Rue de lHorloge, which leads away from the stout and square
gate tower housing the belfry, would have been rather more sweet-
smelling for this is where the skilled craftsmen lived in the creamy
limestone and half-timbered townhouses that still survive from the
14th century. On the other side of the village, in Rue de lAuditoire,
were the court and homes belonging to the many legal advocates
who plied their trade in Charroux. The assault on my senses,
however, was thankfully limited to tasting the villages famous
mustards and jams, and smelling soap and candles in the specialist
boutiques now lining the streets.
PHOTOGRAPHS: BERTRAND GARDEL/HEMIS.FR DENIS CAVIGLIA/HEMIS.FR
CHARROUX AT Stop for lunch at The Ferme Auberge The Muse de Charroux (tel: (Fr) 4 70
A GLANCE Saint-Sbastien (tel: (Fr) 4 70 56 88 83, 56 87 71), also in Rue de la Poulaillerie,
PHOTOGRAPHS: DENIS CAVIGLIA/HEMIS.FR; CRDT AUVERGNE/JOL DAMASE; PAUL LAMARRA; CRDT AUVERGNE/PASCALE BEROUJON
Stay the night at The Maison Cond, www.fermesaintsebastien.fr), a short documents the villages history from
(tel: (Fr) 4 70 56 81 36, www.maison- way out of Charroux. Sit in the formal Roman and Merovingian times to the
conde.com), a 13th-century townhouse dining room or out on the colourful 19th century. The most interesting
that once played host to Louis I, Duke of terrasse for views over the rolling green artefacts refer to the inhabitants
Bourbon in the mid-1500s. It has five countryside. Menus offer local attempts to embrace the Revolution.
atmospheric and elegant bedrooms, specialities and traditional French Audio guides in English are available.
one of which is within the medieval dishes. Three courses from 26.
Porte de lOrient gatehouse. The hotel The Maison des Horloges in Rue de
also has the villages best restaurant. WHAT TO SEE lHorloge (tel: (Fr) 4 70 56 87 39) is
Doubles from 72, including breakfast. Simone and Claude Maenner have a permanent exhibition of 40 public
been keeping alive the Charroux clocks that have been salvaged from
Stop for a coffee at Rose-Th in Rue tradition of mustard making since 1978 buildings dating from the 16th to the
de la Corderie (tel: (Fr) 4 70 56 83 26). (tel: (Fr) 4 70 56 87 61, www.huiles-et- 19th centuries. The museum attempts to
Theres not enough room for pavement moutardes.com). The mustard seeds are trace the history of French clock making
cafs and people watching in Charroux, no longer grown locally, but the range from the Middle Ages to today.
but the Rose-Th makes up for that with of six mustards is based on old recipes
its home-made pastries and artisanal found in local archives. Their shop in Rue Tours of the interconnected cellars
ice creams. de la Poulaillerie includes an exhibition below Charroux are organised by the
on mustard making and oil pressing. tourist information office.
GETTING THERE: The train journey from London to Vichy 14 of the A719 (tel: 0871 244 1400, www.brittany-ferries.
via Paris Bercy takes 6hr 30min and costs from 93 return co.uk); The closest airport is Clermont-Ferrand.
(tel: 0844 848 5848, www.voyages.sncf-com); Charroux is TOURIST INFORMATION: Charroux tourist office,
a five-hour drive from the ferry port at Caen, off junction tel: (Fr) 4 70 56 87 71, www.allier-auvergne-tourisme.com
IN THE
AREA
Charroux-en-Bourbonnais is
in the Allier dpartement and
lies fewer than 40 kilometres
from the capital, Vichy
(pictured above). Marvel at
the belle-poque architecture
in this elegant spa town and
take the apparently curative
volcanic waters. The signature
treatment is a douche Vichy,
which involves being sprayed
with naturally heated spring
water while being massaged
by four hands.
The more actively inclined
can hop aboard the Vlorail
de la Sioule (pictured below),
based at Le Mayet dcole,
where you pedal a small
wagon carrying up to four
people along an old railway
line either south to Gannat
(10km) or north following
the Sioule Valley (16km)
(tel: (Fr) 6 58 05 32 71,
www.veloraildelasioule.com).
The Sioule is the Alliers
only remaining wine-growing
area. The appellation
dorigine contrle is centred
on Saint-Pourcain, 20km
north of Charroux. The
vineyards are among the
oldest in France and were
favourites of early French
kings and the popes of
Avignon. For an overview,
visit the Muse de la Vigne
et du Terroir in the town
CLOCKWISE FROM FACING PAGE: The Porte de (www.museedelavigne.fr).
lHorloge and the belfry; Shuttered houses in
a quiet street; The Porte de lOrient; Mustards at
Simone and Claude Maenners shop; The truncated
spire of the glise Saint-Jean-Baptiste
GRAND
I DESIGNER
t is perhaps appropriate Voisin in the mid-1920s, which
that Le Corbusier, one of had advocated razing parts of
Frances greatest and most central Paris and replacing them
divisive architects, believed with 60-storey towers,
in the possibility of reinventing encountered fierce criticism.
oneself; he was not born with While the modernist architect However, his 1935 paper
the name Le Corbusier, nor was La Ville Radieuse, had more
he French by birth. divides opinions, theres no tangible results, leading to the
Charles-douard Jeanneret was denying his influence, creation of the groundbreaking
born in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds Unit dHabitation communal
in the Swiss Jura, a few kilometres as Eleanor OKane housing scheme in Marseille in 1947
from the French border. The son of explains and a similar project in Nantes in 1965.
a watch engraver, he enrolled at In 1937 the modernist designer was
La Chauxs art school in 1900 and was awarded the Chevalier de la Lgion
taught by architect Ren Chapallaz, who dHonneur. He moved to the Auvergne in
influenced his early work. In 1922 he met Yvonne Gallis, the early part of the war to work as
4
THINGS TO SEE mountains make an
arresting backdrop.
of window panes, its classic
Le Corbusier.
La Cit
Radieuse, Marseille
1 La Chapelle de Tel: (Fr) 3 84 20 65 13 Tel: (Fr) 1 42 88 75 72 Take a guided tour to see
Notre-Dame du www.collinenotredame www.fondationlecorbusier.fr how the Unit dHabitation,
Haut, Ronchamp duhaut.com Le Corbusiers vision for
Created, according to 3 Roquebrune- urban communal living,
Le Corbusier, as a place of 2Le Corbusier Cap-Martin became reality. The concrete
silence, prayer, peace and Foundation, Paris Le Corbusier spent summers concept is a soaring village
inner joy, the stark, Discover more about the in the Mediterranean resort, containing 330 apartments in
modernist chapel in designer and see his staying in a tiny cabin on the 23 designs. The rooftop has
Franche-Comt has drawings and plans in Villa coastal path that he had commanding views over the
a concrete roof inspired by La Roche, one of the sleek made as a gift for his wife city and once had a running
a crab shell. A further Parisian residences he Yvonne. The only dwelling he track and gym. Some
building on the hill by Renzo designed early in his career. ever designed to inhabit Marseillais unkindly call it
Piano, co-designer of the Built for Swiss banker and art himself, the Cabanon was la Maison du Fada, or house
Pompidou Centre in Paris, collector Raoul La Roche, the where he spent his final hours. of lunatics; love it or hate
makes this a must for fans of villa is actually two buildings The couple are buried in the it, you cannot deny that its
contemporary architecture. set at right angles to each cemetery above the village. design was ambitious.
If the setting were not other. Raised on concrete Tel: (Fr) 4 93 35 62 87 Tel: (Fr) 8 26 50 05 00
dramatic enough, the Vosges pilotis (stilts) with long strips www.roquebrunecapmartin.fr www.marseille-tourisme.com
Queen of cuisine
The worlds best female chef, HLNE DARROZE,
tells Caroline Bishop how she juggles family and
career to achieve success in London and Paris
A
s if Michelin-starred French chef Hlne Darroze The honour reflects the success of the two restaurants she
werent already successful enough, she has just gone runs simultaneously: Hlne Darroze in the sixth arrondissement
stellar and it appears this new status will take a bit of Paris, which she opened in 1999, and Hlne Darroze at the
of getting used to. Two days ago in Paris Connaught in London, where she has been since 2008.
a young girl stopped me and said, oh my God, you Its a hard-earned achievement. Dividing her
are my role model, I dream to be you! time between the restaurants, the chef leads
Darroze tells me with an uncomfortable a peripatetic life moving herself and two
laugh. And I said, what do you want young daughters between the two capitals
me to say? Of course I was happy! on a schedule that must make Eurostar
This extra level of fame comes feel like a third home.
because the 48-year-old has been But Darroze loves it, she tells me
named the 2015 Veuve Clicquot from her office at The Connaught.
Worlds Best Female Chef, When the girls were little and wed
an accolade previously held by spend one week in a place and one
esteemed names including fellow week in another, every Friday travelling
Frenchwoman Anne-Sophie Pic, one way or the other, that was ideal.
Basque chef Elena Arzak and Brazils These days her daughters
Helena Rizzo. She received the award Charlotte, eight, and Quiterie, six, both
in June at a ceremony in London for The adopted from Vietnam are in school,
Worlds 50 Best Restaurant Awards, in so they have been more rooted in London,
front of cookings finest talents. I was but Darroze still makes the cross-Channel
a bit stressed and intimidated, she admits. journey every few days.
at this time in my professional life it was possible for me to In fact, the work was a little bit boring, she admits with
perhaps take one day off. a laugh. But I was very curious. I remember Alain Ducasse,
Given the tough choices the job imposes, would she want on the first day I met him, telling me, you have to notice
her daughters to follow her into the industry? I have this everything. And I followed his advice; I noticed everything,
wonderful opportunity to live my passion through my work, every single detail.
she says, so I hope it will be the same for them. If its in the Realising that she wanted to be a chef, Darroze stayed with
kitchen, OK, I will be happy and I will help them, but if its not Ducasse for a further three years before heading back to the
I will also be happy. Landes to take over the family restaurant from her father.
If her children do become chefs, they will be continuing the Though she closed that business in 1999 to launch herself in
family tradition into a fifth generation. Darroze grew up in Paris, she still draws on her familys ethos and approach to
the Landes dpartement of south-west France, where her family cooking, if not on the recipes themselves. I use the values, the
had run a restaurant in Villeneuve-de-Marsan since 1895. spirit and the philosophy of them, she says. I dream to have
She was particularly close to her grandmothers, one of whom a restaurant, a bistro, one day, with this kind of food.
worked in the restaurant alongside Darrozes grandfather Landes products feature heavily in her cooking; she still uses
and taught her to cook. They inspired me a lot, she says. suppliers from the area and says her favourite dish to cook at
They also taught me a lot of values; of generosity, of sharing, home is a Landes chicken, simply roasted. Its a meal she and
of authenticity, of honesty. her already cosmopolitan daughters gobble up as readily as they
But despite this background, Darroze didnt grow up wanting do Japanese sushi, Vietnamese ph noodle soup and (Darrozes
to be a chef. After completing her baccalaurat, she chose to guilty pleasure) Krispy Kreme doughnuts.
study business at the cole Suprieure de Commerce in After all, while she may treasure her roots, Darroze is now
Bordeaux. My mother had a pharmacy, and I also grew up an international chef who is as comfortable in Britain as she is
in this kind of world, she says by way of explanation. in France. Which capital has the more exciting food scene?
On graduating, she applied to various hotels in France, The two are so exciting now but in different ways, she replies
looking to enter the business side of the hospitality industry. diplomatically. Paris is full of openings, but the restaurants
Darroze ended up (with a little networking help from her concentrate on the French spirit, on French food. London is the
father) joining the staff of three-Michelin-star chef contrary. It is so open to the world, its so international. Its
Alain Ducasse at the Louis XV restaurant in Monaco on a combination that seems to suit Darroze down to a T.
a three-month, office-based internship. www.helenedarroze.com
How to...
MAKE BISCUIT
DE SAVOIE
BY CHEF FRANCK
RAYMOND
This light cake
is from my home
region of Savoie
and is easy to
make. It is
FOOD ONLINE
What could be nicer than having the authentic flavours of
and wait for the doorbell
to ring. Founder Rachel
Hanretty trained in Paris
thought to date
from the
14th century
France delivered to your door at the click of a mouse? before opening a caf and when the Amde
patisserie in Edinburgh. VI, Count of Savoy, was asked to
Fresh from France Heaps of hampers Sample price: box of 6 for create a cake as light as a feather
A whole online grocery If you want to receive 7.50; 12 for 12; 18 for for the visit of Charles IV of
shop of small French a selection of your 16.50, tower 40 Luxembourg.
producers gathers under favourite French delicacies (postage 4.99). To start with, warm the oven to
the banner of France of as a one-off treat, or be www.mademoiselle 150C/300F/gas mark 2, and then
Gastronomy. Founder sent a monthly gourmet macaron.co.uk separate seven eggs, putting the
Mickal Paul offers wines, surprise, Bonjour French whites and yolks in different bowls,
terrines, jams, cheeses and Food can oblige. If you Truly tempting and then beat the egg whites until
saucissons and lots of subscribe, co-owner The philosophy behind the they are stiff.
other goodies from Vronique Poulou selects Truly French website is to Next, mix 250g sugar with the
smallholders located all the contents of a surprise make the specialities that egg yolks and then, little by little,
around France. He also hamper that is sent out you have enjoyed on add 200g flour and half a sachet
makes up festive hampers each month, or you can holiday in France available (1.5tsp) of baking powder. Now fold
with food and wine. make a single purchase at home. Owner Kristell in the egg whites, gently lifting the
Sample price: 7.90 for of either a charcuterie or Darchy was born in Paris batter as you go. Continue to mix
400g pork saucisson; a vegetarian hamper. and lived in Brittany everything together about two or
3.70 for 160g Charola Sample price: from 29 before coming to the UK three times more and then sprinkle
cheese from Burgundy (inc p&p) for a hamper so she knows the sort of some flour on top.
(delivery charges vary). containing six or 11 products that will inspire Pour the mixture into a plain or
www.franceof charcuterie products. fond memories. moulded baking tray lined with
gastronomy.com www.bonjour Sample price: 4.50 for greaseproof or baking paper, and
frenchfood.com lobster bisque (delivery place in the oven for 40 minutes.
Brittany bakery charges based on Enjoy!
You can order all sorts of Marvellous macarons weight of order).
French breads and cakes Mademoiselle Macarons www.trulyfrench.com Franck Raymond is the chef-owner of the
from the online service site is simplicity itself. You Augustine Kitchen in Battersea, south-west
of The Bertinet Kitchen. just drag and drop each Provenal produce London. Named after Francks grandmother,
Breton baker Richard colour and flavour of Fond memories of the restaurant showcases regional French
Bertinet now writes books macaron you want into a family delicatessen shop dishes, such as Reblochon tart, gratin of
on baking and runs a virtual box of either six, in Provence led to the crozet (Savoyard pasta) and a pork shank
a cookery school in Bath. 12 or 18 pieces, make creation of online shop which has been cooked slowly for 36 hours.
He will also supply yeast your way to the checkout Provence Delights, which Tel: 0207 978 7085
blocks, sourdough starter offers a small, hand-picked www.augustine-kitchen.co.uk
and pizza dough for you selection of relishes, fruit
to do your own baking. nectars and biscuits.
Sample price: 5.60 for Sample price: relishes from
a 1.2kg sourdough loaf 7, nectars from 3.90,
(4.85 for standard biscuits from 3.50
delivery). www.the (postage 5.50).
bertinetkitchen.com www.provence.london
DID YOU KNOW? In 1985, French astronaut Patrick Baudry took a bottle of 1975
Chteau Lynch-Bages vintage wine on Nasas Discovery space shuttle. The hotel is
offering special packages to mark the anniversary, visit www.cordeillanbages.com
Calvet, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Les Gravires Domaine Bruno Sorg, Riesling
2014, Bordeaux Blanc dAmador Abb de Turpenay 2013, Chinon Pfersigberg 2012, Alsace Grand Cru
This Bordeaux competes head-on with Cabernet franc from the Loire deserves to The well exposed east-south-east facing
New Zealand sauvignon blanc. It has be more in favour. This example is almost slopes of Pfersigberg accumulate plenty of
a zesty, pick-me-up vibrancy and fresh purple with the brightness of youth, as sunshine to bring a warm ripeness to the
acidity, with notes of cut-grass, herbs and exuberant aromas of raspberry, graphite fruit here. Riesling does particularly well,
asparagus, all crunchy and fresh. and a hint of green pepper exude from the and this one shows seashell and aromatic
The palate kicks off with lemon sherbet glass. The palate is light on tannin and big spices on the nose, along with lime pith,
CONTACT SALLY EASTON AT WWW.WINEWISDOM.COM
tingliness and mellows to on fresh, crunchy, just-picked citrus, pebbly and succulent
a rounder citrus fruit than the summer berry fruits. The body is juice-dripping peachiness. Rieslings
perkiness of the nose suggested. smooth, fine-textured and steely freshness and characteristic
All in all, its provides really good wholesome, and it finishes with intensity and richness of flavour
varietal aromas and flavours. a herbal tweak of complexity. shine through in this young but
Drink with: Nibbles as Drink with: Lighter dishes, complex wine.
an aperitif. salads and non-oily fish. Drink with: Contemplation.
Waitrose, 8.99 Noel Young Wines, 11.95 Highbury Vintners, 24
Tel: 0800 188 881 Tel: 01223 566 744 Tel: 0207 226 1347
www.waitrosewine.com www.nywines.co.uk www.highburyvintners.co.uk
Make th
Pche Melba
Celebrate summer with the legendary chef Escoffiers
homage to an opera star, says Rosa Jackson
L
ike prawn cocktail and steak PERFECT PEACH MELBA
au poivre, peach Melba fell I am horrified at the amount of sugar in
gently out of fashion some most peach Melba recipes. To preserve the
time towards the end of the delicate flavour of the peach, the sugar
20th century. Though it might still syrup should be light; ten per cent sugar in
appear on dinner tables from time to proportion to the water is enough. If you
time, this dessert of poached peaches, happen to find flat white peaches, they work
vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce beautifully in this recipe.
feels slightly tongue-in-cheek, especially
when topped with whipped cream and 4 ripe peaches, SERVES
toasted almonds. Yet, made with the preferably white 4
elegant simplicity that legendary chef 4 cups/1 litre water
Auguste Escoffier intended, its a marvel 4oz/100g white sugar
of complementary flavours and textures 4 scoops vanilla ice cream
that is perfect for celebrating the 8oz/200g raspberries
summer in retro style. Food critic and cookbook author Rosa 1-2tbsp icing sugar
Unlike many other great French Jackson lives in Nice, where she runs the
dishes, pche Melba has a story behind cookery school Les Petits Farcis and writes 1. Cut the peaches in half and remove
it that appears not to be fictional. about food for publications worldwide. the stone (this should be easy to do if
In a handwritten letter that has been they are ripe). Place the peach halves
preserved, Escoffier described how he in a large bowl and cover with boiling
created this dessert in 1894 for the they are in season. Before moving to water from the kettle. Leave for a few
Australian opera singer Dame Nellie France I had never encountered a truly seconds, then remove from the water
Melba. A long-term guest of the Savoy ripe peach: one whose juice drips down with a slotted spoon and gently peel
Hotel in London, where Escoffier your chin at the first bite. However, the off the skins.
worked, Melba invited him to hear her peach should not be so ripe that it 2. In a medium saucepan gently heat
sing in Wagners opera Lohengrin. collapses when you cut it in half, as is the water and sugar until the sugar is
To show his appreciation the chef sometimes the case in Nice. dissolved and the syrup comes to
concocted this dessert, which he I dont think it is necessary to make a simmer. Place the peaches in the
presented on a swan carved out of ice, your own ice cream, but the one you use syrup and poach at a very low simmer
in reference to the operas swan knight, should contain nothing more than egg for five minutes. Remove with
and decorated with spun sugar. yolks, cream, sugar and real vanilla bean a slotted spoon and place two peach
When Escoffier moved to the Carlton no vegetable fats or stabilisers. halves in each dish.
Hotel in 1899, peach Melba became As for the raspberries, they are in 3. Press the raspberries through
MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: DORLING KINDERSLEY LTD/ALAMY
a regular fixture on the menu because it season at the same time as peaches, so a food mill using the finest setting
was so easy to assemble. Over the years, need only to be pured and strained, and sweeten to taste with the icing
Dame Nellie Melba would become and mixed with enough icing sugar to sugar. If you do not have a food mill,
better known for the dessert she inspired balance their acidity. pure with a hand blender or in
than for her voice. Most importantly, this dessert should a food processor, then strain to
For peach Melba to merit its name, remain minimalist, with nothing more remove the seeds and sweeten
there can be no shortcuts. Escoffier used than a light coating of raspberry coulis to taste.
ripe white peaches poached in a light over the ice cream and peach. Add 4. Just before serving, place a scoop
sugar syrup, though the more acidic whipped cream and you no longer have of vanilla ice cream in each dish and
yellow peaches would do, as long as a peach melba but an ice-cream sundae. top with the raspberry coulis.
Dordogne
As an entre, for example, the combination of raw and
cooked green asparagus with a perfectly poached egg in
an aromatic truffle sauce is breathtaking. Next up, perhaps,
opt for a fillet of duck with a rich red-berry gravy, or
monkfish in a sauce of delicate curry spices and Quercy
saffron. Then round off your meal with a dessert of pistachio
sabl (shortbread) with mixed berries and a blackcurrant
marmalade accompanied by a strawberry sorbet. The wines Local resident Mark Sampson has
are refined, the bread is baked daily on the premises and
all the ingredients have to meet the stringent criteria of
some insider tips for dining well
a classified Relais & Chteaux hotel in terms of season, in the historical Haut-Quercy area
locality and environmental respect.
The restaurant accommodates just 40 people, so youll
of the Lot dpartement
need to book a table. It is open for dinner every evening,
although lunch is served only on Saturdays, Sundays,
Mondays and public holidays. Fixed-price lunch menus start 2 Le Pont de lOuysse
at 48 and dinner menus are from 96. If you want to stay Picture a hot day in summer, eating out on a terrace underneath
the night, the equally indulgent rooms cost from 200. a spreading sweet chestnut or a venerable lime, just across from
Chteau de la Treyne, 46200 Lacave, tel: (Fr) 5 65 27 60 60, the ruins of a bridge and within earshot of the river that swept
www.chateaudelatreyne.com it away in 1966. You are almost literally underneath the
See next issue for our feature on staying at the Chteau de Chteau de Belcastel, perched on its vertiginous limestone cliff.
la Treyne and exploring the area. Here, at Le Pont de lOuysse in Lacave, a leisurely time chez
the Chambon family is guaranteed.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ARNAUD CHICUREL/HEMIS.FR; DAVID NAKACHE; MARK SAMPSON
While their mother oversees the hotel and their father the
Bistrot Chambon in Brive-la-Gaillarde, chef Stphane and
matre d Matthieu are busy in the restaurant, building on their
fathers reputation for sumptuous local cuisine (which earned
Daniel Chambon a Michelin star in 1989). For all Stphanes
early international experience in London, Bangkok and
Dubai, for example his aim is to introduce outsiders to the
best produce in the area and to offer locals a new take on it.
The produce is seriously local. The Rocamadour (melted into
a bed of truffle-tinged mascarpone) for my extraordinary cheese
course came from Uncle Guys nearby goat farm. From the
Ouysse valley, a brief but beautiful tributary of the River
Dordogne, came the cpes for a divine entre of a terrine with
garlic, parsley and a mushroom velout; the trout fillet (with
a crust of ground walnuts on a bed of young leeks) for my plat
Valley
fried foie gras marinated with saki and Kyoto miso, it was
followed by a succulent grain-fed roast pigeon washed
down with a spicy 2009 Madiran selected by the chefs
wife, Florence. The cheese board ushered in a chocolate
surprise with red fruits and a crme brle, or
an extraordinary inverted variegated sugar cone concealing
local strawberries, cream and sorbet.
A few years ago, the Bizats boldly abolished their
la carte in favour of formule menus (described as
declensions) which change daily. While he is happy to
cook for vegetarians, they should phone the day before to
warn him. The proof of the pudding, so to speak, lies in the
Michelin star and a steady increase in clients.
The set menus cost from 32 to 82. In high season, the
restaurant is open all
week except for
Monday lunch.
Les Trois Soleils
de Montal,
Les Prs-de-Montal,
46400 Saint-Jean
Lespinasse,
tel: (Fr) 5 65 10 16 16,
www.3soleils.fr
principal; and the strawberries that filled a filigree meringue
along with a coconut sorbet and a Chantilly cream lifted with
Szechuan pepper. You can linger long over these and other
components of their gastronomic Menu Belcastel with a great
Chteau les Croisille wine from Cahors, then take
a post-prandial stroll to the confluence of the
Ouysse and the Dordogne before returning M U ST T RY
for afternoon tea on the sun terrace. Essentially enhanced leftove
Vegetarians are welcomed and the r bread,
la mique (au pain) was a stap
menu changes with the seasonal fare. le of
more humble quercynois cuis
Fixed-price lunches (except Sundays) ine in
its agrarian past. It is a test
start at 40 and dinners are from 60. imo ny to
todays higher standards of
The Menu Belcastel is 89. living
that you might now find it as
Le Pont de lOuysse, 46200 Lacave,
a toasted brioche-like
tel: (Fr)5 65 37 87 04, accompaniment to foie gras.
www.lepontdelouysse.fr
w w
.co m
le
p fr
te FRANCEnaMAGAZINE 83
ce
Eating in
APRO
Relais
Sainte-Anne
Rue du Pourtanel, 46600 Mar
tel
Tel: (Fr) 5 65 37 40 56
troS lt hem
www.relais-sainte-anne.com
This former religious school on its cheeses, wines and walnut-based oils and cakes
for girls
serves the best aperitifs in
town.
Licensing laws dictate that
they must be WINE
a prelude to a meal, so enjoy
the full Cave du Lopard
enchanting experience. Place des Consuls
46600 Martel
Tel: (Fr) 5 65 37 30 27
This small cave in the
market square stocks
regional and local
wines, aperitifs and
a small selection of
food items such as
pt and foie gras. The
shop is open all week
from mid-May to
mid-September.
CHOCOLATES
Chocolaterie
ric Lamy
5 Rue de lHtel de Ville
19100 Brive-la-Gaillarde
Tel: (Fr) 5 55 18 91 26
www.chocolaterie-
lamy.com
MARKET capital of the Causses Cakes, macarons,
March de Souillac du Quercy nature park. chocolates... all are
Place Doussot and The owner, Madame hand-made in the Lamy
French
olive oil
In her regular column,
Clotilde Dusoulier shows
how to cook with the
produce we buy in France
O
live oil plays a major role in the
contemporary French kitchen, and
indeed the south of the country has
a long tradition of olive groves and
mills. Tempting as it is to take advantage of
a holiday in France to stock up, finding the real
thing takes a bit of sleuthing.
All olive oils sold in France must indicate the Olives grown in France are harvested from
origin. This can be a clear mention (France, Spain, October to February, and the variety of techniques
Tunisia) or a fuzzy one (huiles dolive de la used means that French oils are uniquely varied in
Communaut Europenne olive oils from the EU) their flavour profiles. Fruit vert (green) means
that gives the manufacturer free rein to assemble an early harvest of still-green olives, their oil
batches from different countries. extracted right away; this makes for a grassy,
For French olive oils, seek out a certification of Clotilde Dusoulier ardent olive oil, and it is the kind most countries
origin (AOP or AOC) that guarantees the region lives in Paris and produce because it is cheaper and easier to
where the olives were grown, their variety and the writes a popular preserve. For fruit mr (ripe) oils, the olives are
methods of cultivation, harvest and oil extraction. food blog, allowed to ripen fully, their oil also extracted
There are currently eight, displayed prominently Chocolate & immediately after harvest; it is milder and sweeter
on the label: Aix-en-Provence, Les Baux-de-Provence, Zucchini. She in flavour. Fruit noir (black) oils are made from
Haute-Provence, Provence, Nice, Nmes, Nyons has published late-harvest olives that are left to sit for a few days
and Corsica. An organic label is also desirable. cookbooks and more before the oil is extracted; the flavour of
Favour freshly harvested oils by checking the a guide to Paris the olives is powerful, but well-rounded
expiry date, typically set to two years after bottling. restaurants and and with no bitterness.
Conversely, the description Huile dolive vierge food shops. Youll find such olive oils in supermarkets and
extra premire pression froid (cold-pressed, fine-food stores; I am especially fond of the
extra-virgin olive oil) is no indication of quality: Premire Pression Provence shops that specialise in
almost all olive oils on the French market, good or single-estate oils from French producers; perfect for
bad, qualify for this description. making savoury biscuits (see recipe below).
MAKES
OLIVE OIL AND HERB CANISTRELLI ABOUT
250g plain flour 1. Preheat the oven to and wine with a fork. or water as needed. then lower 50
PHOTOGRAPH: DUSAN ZIDAR/iSTOCKPHOTO
1tsp fine sea salt 180C/350F/gas 3. Turn out on to 4. Pat the dough into the heat
112tsp baking powder mark 4 and line a clean work surface a disc, about 1.5cm to 160C/325F/gas
1tbsp mixed dried a baking sheet with and knead gently, thick. Slice into 2.5cm mark 3 and bake for
herbs, such as parchment paper. without overworking, squares or diamonds. another 15 minutes,
herbes de Provence 2. In a medium bowl, until the dough Transfer to the baking until golden brown.
80ml extra-virgin combine the flour, salt, comes together into sheet, leaving a little 6. Cool before serving
olive oil baking powder and a smooth ball. Add space between each. with a pre-dinner glass
80ml dry white wine herbs. Stir in the oil a little more flour 5. Bake for 15 minutes, of wine.
U
ntil the 1990s, the Luberon was a more temperate climate than its neighbour: cool
a forgotten region, nestling secretively air spills down from the Alps through the valleys of
beneath its eponymous mountains; the Coulon and ze rivers, giving milder days and
a landscape scattered with vines, field cooler nights. Although the Luberons crisp, spicy
crops and tumbledown cottages, overlooked by ross now represent more than half of its production
hilltop villages that would be perfectly at home in (the fashion for pink is hard to ignore in such
the sleepiest corners of Tuscany. Then in 1989, a touristic region), this is historically red wine
Peter Mayles best-selling novel A Year in Provence Dominic Rippon country, where the syrah grape makes wines that
was published, putting the village of Mnerbes on has many years have more in common with the northern Rhne
the map. The initial stream of literary enthusiasts experience in the appellations of Saint-Joseph and Cte-Rtie than the
gave way to a larger tide of wealthy urbanites, wine trade, both more southerly Gigondas and Chteauneuf-du-Pape.
politicians and international celebrities, who bought in the UK and I followed the road beneath the village of
up ancient chteaux and farmsteads as peaceful France, and Mnerbes, glancing toward the hilltop ruins of
retreats from their busy lives. now runs the Chteau de Lacoste, once home to the infamous
While tourism boomed in the Luberon, the areas wine merchant Marquis de Sade, as I made my way to nearby
wine industry struggled. Its vineyards gained business Strictly Bonnieux. As I entered the driveway of Chteau la
appellation dorigine status in 1988, but it is only Wine. Canorgue, I had the unnerving feeling of having
during the past decade, in an initiative spearheaded visited it before, as if in a dream. I mentioned my
by a group of local cooperative cellars called disquiet to owner Nathalie Margan, who quickly
Marrenon Vignobles, that the Luberons wines explained: this is the chteau where the 2006 film
have begun to gain recognition further afield. A Good Year, starring Russell Crowe, was filmed.
PHOTOGRAPHS: DOMINIC RIPPON
The Luberon is quintessentially Provenal, but its Its been crazy ever since, Nathalie admitted.
vignerons look west to the Rhne Valley for their Weve found people wandering around and even
vinous identity. South-east of the sun-baked climbing the walls, trying to take selfies. And
Ctes du Rhne villages, where the theyre often not even interested in our wine!
grenache grape thrives in the torrid In Peter Mayles novel, on which the film
garrigue scrubland, the Luberon enjoys is based, the fictional Griffon wine estate is
A SIMPLE MAN
Cannes 2015 award-winner VINCENT LINDON tells Richard Mowe
why he enjoys playing the underdog in his films
A
s he matures, Vincent Lindon, and accolades, starting with Mademoiselle
who was named Best Chambon, in which he played a small-
Actor at the Cannes Film town artisan falling in love with his sons
Festival this year, has teacher, continuing through the rigours
found his niche playing characters on of Quelques heures du printemps
the edge while also having a real-life (A Few Hours of Spring) as
commitment to social causes. an inarticulate lorry driver living with
Lindons father was a wealthy his mother, and now La loi du march
industrialist, so he may not seem the as a mechanic on the dole with a wife
most obvious candidate to portray and a disabled son.
characters in hard-hitting social Lindon is full of praise for his
dramas, the latest of which is the collaborator. What I like about his films
award-winning role as a jobless is that you are not told what to think.
tradesman in Stphane Brizs La loi du ABOVE: Vincent Lindon in La loi du march: He shows things the way they are and
march (The Measure of a Man). RIGHT: At Cannes in May with his Best Actor you have to make up your own mind.
Not that he displays any ostentatious award for the film Films used to be all about escapism, but
wealth. There is a Parisian apartment, more and more people want to see films
but there is no chteau and no pad on He worked his way through the about the world they live in the kind of
the Cte dAzur, where we met just 1980s in secondary roles, collaborating films made by Ken Loach or the [Belgian]
before he received his award. Rather than with Bertrand Blier in Notre histoire, Dardenne Brothers. It is almost as if you
travelling in a smoked-glass limousine he with Jean-Jacques Beineix in Betty Blue have to go to the cinema to get a glimpse
rides around Paris on a motorbike. and with Claude Sautet in Quelques of reality because when you see the news
The actor seems to have been around jours avec moi. However, it wasnt until on television it is too concentrated to
in French cinema for decades, with he teamed up with Claude Lelouch for take in.
features that always appeared lived in two films, La belle histoire (1992) and Although he is viewed as an actor
and a slight facial twitch that the comedy hit Tout a pour a in committed to causes he insists: I am not
miraculously disappears whenever he is 1993 that his career began to take off. a hero, I just make movies. When you
in front of the cameras. In the past couple of decades he has have a certain level of fame in France
He was drawn into the profession become one of the most sought-after you get offered a lot of scripts in the
almost accidentally, working first as names in French cinema and earned same vein. In my generation there are
an assistant costume designer on Alain a Csar nomination for his role in three or four actors who read everything
Resnaiss Mon oncle dAmrique (1980). Philippe Liorets Welcome (2009), as Vincent Cassel is another in the same
PHOTOGRAPHS: POOL/GETTY IMAGES
He spent a few years in the United States a swimming instructor helping refugees bracket. I pick and choose I dont have
and then worked as a newspaper in Calais. Besides smaller-scale dramas, a luxurious lifestyle to sustain I lead
journalist. Finally he decided to take Lindon is not adverse to a high-concept a simple life.
a stab at acting and enlisted in the Cours thriller such as Fred Cavays Lindon suggests that his way of
Florent school in Paris, where a teacher Mea Culpa, opposite Gilles Lellouche. demonstrating against injustices is
put him forward for a role in the thriller It is his work with Briz which has through his films, and a glance at his film
Le Faucon in 1983. brought him his most recent recognition CV suggests a social conscience
Bovery left spellbound by the arrival of Charlie (Flemyng) and Gemma Bovery
(Arterton, pictured with Luchini), a couple relocating from London.
Joubert, who adores Flauberts work, sees Gemmas last name as an
indication that she is doomed to repeat the mistakes of tragic literary
character Emma Bovary. His fears are heightened when a bored Gemma
STARRING: Gemma Arterton, starts an affair with dashing young aristocrat Herv (Niels Schneider).
Fabrice Luchini, Jason Flemyng A clever post-modern take on a French classic, Gemma Bovery will
DIRECTOR: Anne Fontaine delight fans of Flaubert, who will pick up references to his most famous
CERTIFICATE: 15 novel throughout. Fans of Simmonds will be happy too, with French
RUNNING TIME: 99 minutes director Anne Fontaines film successfully capturing the look and feel of
RELEASE DATE: 7 August the popular graphic novel.
are
and film-maker Quentin Tarantino.
e
Champagne, where he went
to school, followed by the
cole Militaire in Paris, where
he attended university.
I also went along the
W
listening to...
HOW THE FRENCH THINK
Sudhir Hazareesingh,
Allen Lane, 20
Route Napolon, Frances position in the world and
En Pense by French
stopping in all the places artist Christina Goh. its way of life are just two of the
that he visited, from The lyrics (on www. ideas discussed in this lively
Cannes to Lyon. youtube.com) deal account of the countrys intellectual
I spent almost five with moving on in tradition and the way it has shaped
months travelling through life from a failed its identity. Drawing on the ideas
France. I wrote much of the relationship. espoused by such influential
thinkers as Voltaire and Descartes, the author an
Oxford academic demonstrates just how imaginative
DVD and far-reaching French thought has been over the past
Suite Franaise (from 27 July) A wartime love affair 400 years. Nicolas Sarkozys presidential style and the
between a French villager (Michelle Williams) and symbolic importance of Astrix are among the wide
a German soldier (Matthias Schoenaerts) causes range of topics covered as ideals such as citizenship,
consternation in the small town of Bussy in this social justice and the peoples belief in the State come
adaptation of Irne Nmirovskys novel. under the microscope.
I
was strolling past my local bookshop allow learners to gain a feel for the mang. If you use
the other day when something caught language, wherever they are. the word plein
my eye; I was struck by how much Learning French grammar is hard going for full and say
more colourful and user-friendly for many people, but a book that caught Je suis plein(e),
language phrasebooks have become in the my eye at the bookshop is French you are telling them
past couple of years. Grammar in Context (Routledge, 21.99). you are drunk.
The Berlitz French Phrasebook & The authors take an innovative approach
Dictionary (Berlitz Language, 4.99) is to the topic, drawing on literary texts from
an excellent example. The new, updated great French writers such as Albert Camus,
version comes with a more appealing Jacques Prvert and Raymond Queneau to
colour-coding system, allowing readers to illustrate key grammar points. Journalistic
retrieve the phrases that they require in less
time, while the simplified phonetics makes
sources including magazines and regional
newspapers are also used. The book GRAMMAR
it easier to pronounce the words correctly.
Another impressive language resource
is the Rough Guide French Phrasebook
contains written and spoken exercises,
and you can access further work on its
companion website.
CORNER
(Rough Guides, 5.99), which contains For an enjoyable French summer read, ALLER
more than 5,000 words to help your seek out a copy of Et si ctait vrai The verb aller means to go
French holiday go smoothly, such as (Pocket, 8.60) by Marc Levy. The writing and is used in French almost
booking a hotel room, enquiring about is deceptively simple, but the story is full of in the same way as it is in
train times and ordering meals through its unexpected twists and turns, and contains English. Examples include
menu list reader. What I found particularly so much evocative language that it will Je vais la banque, which
useful were the free audio downloads reward learners wishing to put their level means Im going to the bank,
recorded by native speakers which of French to the test. and Nous allons au cinma,
which translates as Were
THIS MONTHS BEST PICKS going to the cinema.
The verb is commonly
BEGINNERS INTERMEDIATE ADVANCED used to convey the idea that
French Grammar You Mot Mot: New Advanced Madame Bovary, something is about to happen
Really Need to Know, French Vocabulary, Gallimard, 6.50 in the near future. Examples
Teach Yourself, 10.99 Hodder Education, 7.99 Gustave Flauberts ground- include Nous allons partir dans
This beginners guide This excellent resource will breaking novel about a bored dix minutes, which means
provides clear explanations help intermediate to housewifes scandalous affair We are going to leave in ten
of the essential grammar advanced learners improve in 19th-century France is minutes, and Vas-tu maider?,
structures in French. The their essay-writing skills with a good test for those aiming which translates as Are you
book has ample practice vocabulary sections on for complete fluency. The going to help me?
exercises to ensure learners topics ranging from world books elongated paragraphs, Aller also appears in
become as confident as politics to the environment long descriptions various idiomatic expressions;
possible with and healthcare. and dramatic notable examples are Je vais
the language, Phrases are language will pied, which means Im going
gaining the drawn from real definitely put on foot; On y va?, which
intuition needed sources such as advanced translates as Shall we go?;
to converse in magazines and learners French and a va sans dire, for
French. websites. skills to the test. That goes without saying.
A G
u revoir les cadenas de lamour, bonjour le street art. oodbye love locks, hello street art. On 1 June, the
Le 1er Juin, les amoureux inconditionnels du Ponts wholehearted lovers of the Pont des Arts saw staff
des Arts ont vu les employs de la Mairie de Paris from Paris City Hall remove the fences attached to
retirer les grilles rattaches aux parapets du pont the bridge parapets that had displayed thousands
et qui arboraient des milliers de cadenas. Cette passerelle of padlocks. This footbridge, the oldest metal bridge in Paris,
pitonnire, le plus ancien pont mtallique de Paris, date du dates from the 19th century. It was rebuilt in the early
XIXme sicle. Elle a t reconstruite au dbut des annes 1980 1980s and spans the River Seine, connecting the Institut
et rallie lInstitut Franais au Louvre, en enjambant la Seine. Or Franais to the Louvre. But now, the authorities were compelled
aujourdhui, les autorits sont forces de constater que ce trait to note that the bridge could no longer stand the weight of
dunion ne supporte plus le poids de tout cet amour. all this love.
Depuis 2008, attacher un cadenas sur les parapets du pont Since 2008, attaching a padlock on the bridge parapets had
tait devenu coutume pour les couples, become customary for couples,
franais ou trangers, de passage dans French or foreign, who were
la capitale du romantisme, souhaitant visiting the capital of romance
sceller leur amour. Sur le cadenas and wanted to seal their love.
taient inscrits les noms des deux On the padlock were written
amoureux ainsi quune date et parfois the names of the two lovers,
une citation. Cette pratique venue a date and sometimes a quote.
dEurope de lEst avait fait du Pont des This practice, which originated
Arts une vritable attraction touristique. in Eastern Europe, transformed
Malheureusement, les 45 tonnes de the Pont des Arts into a tourist
cadenas commenaient dtriorer le attraction.
Monument historique. La Mairie a Unfortunately, the 45 tons of
donc pris la dcision de les remplacer padlocks were beginning to
par quatre fresques de 150 mtres damage the historic monument.
de long ralises par des artistes The City Hall therefore decided
internationaux de street art: Jace, to replace them with four
El Seed, Brusk et Pantonio. Le jeune runionnais Jace, connu 150-metre frescoes created by international street artists: Jace,
pour ses petits gouzous, a choisi de reprsenter une vision nave El Seed, Brusk and Pantonio. The young Runion islander Jace,
et dcale de la vie parisienne telle que se limagine le touriste known for his little gouzou characters, chose to represent
lambda. Tous les artistes se sont inspirs du lieu, du symbole a naive and offbeat vision of Parisian life as imagined by the
romantique et artistique quil reprsente afin que le nom Pont average tourist. All the artists were inspired by the setting, and
des Arts prenne tout son sens. Cette exposition temporaire its romantic and artistic symbolism, in order for it to become
demeurera sur le pont jusquau dbut de lautomne. Des the Pont des Arts in every sense of the word. The temporary
panneaux vitrs remplaceront ensuite plus durablement les uvres. exhibition will remain on the bridge until early autumn. Glass
Le romantisme na, cependant, pas compltement disparu sur panels will then replace the frescoes.
la passerelle pitonne. Un mouvement intitul Love without Romance, however, has not completely disappeared on the
locks est apparu. De quoi sagit-il? Cela consiste tout simplement pedestrian bridge. A movement entitled Love without locks
prendre un selfie sur le pont et partager la photo sur les appeared. What is it? This simply involves taking a selfie on the
rseaux sociaux avec le hashtag #LoveWithoutLocks. Une bridge and sharing the picture on social networks with the
nouvelle manire pour les couples de marquer leur passage dans hashtag #LoveWithoutLocks. A new way for lovebirds to mark
la ville Lumire. their visit to the City of Light.
5I dont WAYS
TO
SAY...
mind
a mest gal
This is the standard
phrase to mean
I dont mind.
a va
This commonly used
phrase translates as
Its OK.
a ne me
gne pas
Farci Smoked This phrase means It
doesnt worry me.
WHATS
la Wrapped a ne me
vapeur in pastry drange pas
PHOTOGRAPHS: FOTOLIA; ILLUSTRATIONS: TIM WESSON; DREAMSTIME
ON THE
as It doesnt upset me.
Hach Stuffed a ne me fait ni
chaud ni froid
Confit Minced
MENU?
Match these cooking methods
En croute Steamed
This phrase translates
as It makes me neither
hot nor cold and
implies that you are
indifferent about
with their English equivalents
Fum Cooked in fat something.
Fun French
CD-audio course, contains ten hours of
published by Hodder & audio learning on CD,
Stoughton. It will help more than three hours of
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steamed; hach minced; confit cooked in fat;
the menu? Farci stuffed; la vapeur 3(56211( 52&+(//(
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To enter: Complete Les Mots Flchs grid and note all the letters in the grey squares. Rearrange
' 8 5 & , $ 0 ( 5 (
these letters to spell a French town or city and send this answer, together with your name,
5 ( 8 6 6 , ( ) 5
telephone number and address, to: FRANCE Magazine, Les Mots Flchs, Cumberland House,
Mots Flchs winner Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB. Entries close 5 August, 2015.
The winner of the June Mots Flchs Last months Les Mots Flchs answers will be posted on our website www.francemag.com/quiz and
quiz (solution above) is Ms F. Wood, from
Prenton on Merseyside. The mystery appear in the September issue, on sale on 5 August, 2015. The answers to this months competition will
town was Mirande. be on the website from 12 August, 2015 and in the October issue on sale on 2 September, 2015.
66 2
KEY
1 Full colour picture
2 Dpartement number 1
3 Nearest town
PARIS 4 Dpartement name
NORTH EAST 5 Sleeping capacity
NORTH WEST 6 Property description
7 Weekly rental range ( in or ) 3 COLLIOURE, PYRNESORIENTALES 4
8 Contact details 5 CAPACITY: 24
Five regions of This homely villa is in a quiet corner of a traditional
village surrounded by countryside, vineyards and Les
Alberes mountains. The mediterranean coast is 15 mins
property to let by Numbers 9 - 16 are distances in drive, St. Cyprien, Argeles sur mer, Canet plage all
popular beach resorts. Collioure is a delight with
km, O/S for On-site and N/P 6
colour code cobbled lanes, artisan galleries and beach front
restaurants. Visit Carcassonne, the wonderful UNESCO
for details Not Provided. world heritage city. Drive along the beautiful rugged
coast into Spain, visit vineyards, cathar castles and pretty
South East harbour towns. Enjoy wine tasting, walking and sight
SOUTH EAST 9 Nearest supermarket seeing. You will feel relaxed as soon as you arrive at Belle
Vue, with its simple stylish decor and the peaceful
setting! Nearest airport Perpignan 20km.
South West 10 Nearest airport
SOUTH WEST 11 Nearest beach/swimming 7 545-945 p/w
Contact Jo Staples
North East 12 Nearest tennis
4 Tel: 07801 440605
Email: bellevuemaisonvilla@yahoo.co.uk
13 Nearest golf www.holidaylettings.co.uk/76428
North West 14 Nearest horseriding
15 Nearest restaurant 1 20 10 1 20 5 1 1
61
D
RE L
LEPINAY LE COMTE
61
U
AT TA CAPACITY: 2
FE REN New gite now available for bookings.
THE HAYLOFT
Completed to a high standard etude thermique, this
part barn conversion offers very attractive and
spacious split level accommodation for two people.
Features include original exposed beams and an A
frame window overlooking countryside in the lounge
which is on the first floor. Dedicated wi-fi, TV, DVD &
radio/CD player.
Heating is by woodburner with warm air circulation
system or ceramic electric heaters. Fully equipped
kitchen/dining area, electric cooker, microwave oven,
fridge & dishwasher. Separate laundry area with
washing machine, tumble dryer and 4 drawer freezer.
Shower room and bedroom with a double bed.
Outside patio area with BBQ.
The Hayloft is part of a small gated complex of three
buildings which include The Bakehouse and the
owners private residence. There are generous
gardens and ample space for parking. Excellent
cycling opportunities and there are two adult bikes
available for use by guests.
Mid-week and weekend breaks available.
Pets welcome.
Not yet available for booking direct on line please
use Book & Contact Us, email or telephone.
300-400 p/w
Contact Details: Susan and Philip Harrison
Tel: 0033 2 33 96 13 67.
Email: hh.aspp@gmail.com
www.lapouliniere.co.uk
10 113 10 3 25 5 5 16
PACKAGE INCLUDES:
6 months print advertising in our classied rental section
12 months digital advertising via:
- www.completefrance.com/holidays-in-france
- An advert slot four times a year in one of
our relevant e-newsletters
- A prole on our Holidays in France rentals app
D
RE L
NEAR BEAULIEU SUR MER
06
U
AT TA CAPACITY: 5
FE REN Stay in an inviting villa on the French Riviera! Walk to
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Le Cottage Dominic is on one level, with 2 air-
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the living area, 2 bathrooms, a well equipped
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the roof reached by exterior stairs. It is gated with
ample parking.
750-1400 p/w
Contact Anne Hubbard
Tel: 001-406-849-5151 (USA, 7 hours behind
UK) www.our-riviera-rental.com
Email: lecottagedominic@gmail.com
1 12 .005 1 12 N/A 1 .5
06
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NR MONTELIMAR, PROVENCE
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email: information@france-monaco-rentals.com (FR): 33 4.75.46.25.34
69 66 06
The Summer
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Our latest addition, A brilliantly restored
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INTERVIEW
My France
countryside but dont bother to try to find out more about
to learn the language. Have my familys history. Theres
you witnessed this first-hand? a book store there with good
I have been in parts of France books about the Huguenots.
popular with English people,
Posy
so Ive heard them yelling in Franco-Belgian comics seem
English. Not all of them more popular than ever. Why
necessarily yell in the street, do you think that is?
Simmonds
but I have met people who Yes, they are everywhere at
say: I dont really talk festivals and comic shops.
French except to the builders Part of their popularity is due
and then they still didnt to the fact that the media has
understand about the tiles. The British graphic novelist tells become much more about
I think to myself, well b.y word and image, and the
well learn French! Pierre de Villiers about her student whole Web is word and
days in Paris and French peoples image. I think people are used
How often do you travel to it now.
through France? undying love for bandes dessines
Ive just spent a few weeks in You must be proud of the
France visiting friends in I love watching people and a girls boarding school to role that you have played in
Gaillac, near Albi, and I also Paris is particularly brilliant suddenly being in Paris, more popularising bandes dessines
know Brittany quite well. for that because you can sit or less on my own. I had (comic books or strips).
I get to Paris quite a lot; its outside restaurants. never been in a city before For a while I didnt realise
an inspirational place. I find it because I grew up in the I was part of the comics scene,
interesting how the smell in You studied at the Sorbonne country, so it was completely because I always worked for
Paris has changed. It used to in Paris. Was that enjoyable? wonderful. I walked newspapers. If you said you
smell of Gauloises, but Oh, I have very happy everywhere and I transformed were in comics people thought
PHOTOGRAPHS: VICTOR SCHIFERLI; MATTHIEU COLIN/HEMIS.FR
doesnt anymore. memories of that time. It was myself from wearing you meant The Beano and
a big transition from being in a respectable tweed overcoat Dandy. Nearly 20 years ago,
Which is your favourite part the English countryside at and black patent handbag when Gemma Bovery came
of Paris? out, I went to the comics
Im addicted to shoe shops festival in Angoulme [in
and theres a particular one Charente], and realised that
I like in Rue du Cherche- there was one big comics
Midi, which is near the Bon family, and I was part of it.
March department store That was rather good.
(pictured). I sometimes have
a sandwich outside and look Gemma Bovery is in cinemas
at the shoes in Cherche-Midi. from 14 August.
Dordogne
Valley
Take a stylish and fun-filled
tour of the area in an open-top
sports car
PLUS SEPTEMBER
How to see the best ISSUE ON
of Paris in a day
Where to eat out SALE
PHOTOGRAPH: JEAN-LOUIS NESPOULOUS
in Bordeaux 5 AUGUST
Great places to stay for Dont miss out
turn to page 67
rest and relaxation to subscribe!
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