EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW
YORK
CITY
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW
YORK
CITY
Main Contributor Eleanor Berman
 Contents
How to use this Guide 6
Project Editor Fay Franklin
Art Editor Tony Foo
Editors Donna Dailey, Ellen Dupont, Esther Labi
Designers Steve Bere, Louise Parsons, Mark Stevens
Editorial Assistant Fiona Morgan

Contributors Lester Brooks, Patricia Brooks,

Susan Farewell, Cheryl Farr Leas

Photographers
Max Alexander, Dave King, Michael Moran

Illustrators
Richard Draper, Robbie Polley, Hamish Simpson

US Editor
Mary Sutherland

This book was produced with the assistance of

Websters International Publishers.
New York Yankees
Printed and bound in China baseball star
Babe Ruth
First American Edition, 1993
(18951948)
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Published in the United States by DK Publishing,

345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Introducing
Reprinted with revisions 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001,
New York City
2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011,
2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Great Days in
Copyright 1993, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London New York City 10
A Penguin Random House Company

All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, Putting New York City
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into on the Map 14
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley
A catalog record is available from the Library of Congress

ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-46542-866-0

Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage;

ie the first floor is at ground floor level.

Iconic yellow taxis in New York City

The History of
New York City 18
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
New York City
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, at a Glance 36
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and New York City
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of Through the Year 52
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com. The Manhattan
Skyline 56
Front cover main image: View over Midtown and the Empire State Building at night
Towering skyscrapers in central New York
 Entertainment in
New York City 332

Childrens
New York City 356

Survival Guide
Practical
Information 360

Getting to
New York City 370
Fresh produce and sh for sale in Chinatown
Getting Around
New York City 376
New York City Upper Midtown 168
Area by Area
Upper East Side 184
Lower Manhattan 66
Central Park 206
Seaport and
The Civic Center 82 Upper West Side 212

Lower East Side, Morningside Heights

Chinatown, and and Harlem 222
Little Italy 94
Farther Afield 234
Soho and TriBeCa 104 Classic New York dining at the Oyster Bar
Seven Guided Walks 258
in Grand Central Terminal
Greenwich Village 110
Travelers
New York City
East Village 118 Needs Street Finder 386
Gramercy and the Where to Stay 278
General Index 418
Flatiron District 124
Where to Eat and Drink
Acknowledgments 438
Chelsea and the 288
Garment District 132
Shopping 310
Theater District 142

Lower Midtown 152

The New York City Ballet Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, Upper East Side
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get the sights with maps, photographs, and detailed
most from your stay in New York with the min- illustrations. In addition, seven planned walks
imum of practical difficulty. The opening sec- take you step-by-step through special areas.
tion, Introducing New York City, locates the city Well-researched tips on where to stay, eat,
geographically, sets modern New York in its shop, and on sports and entertainment, are in
historical context and describes the highlights section three, Travelers Needs. Childrens New
of the year. New York City at a Glance is an over- York City lists highlights for young visitors,
view of the citys attractions. Section two, New and section four, Survival Guide, shows you
York City Area by Area, guides you through the how to do everything from mailing a letter
citys sightseeing areas. It describes all the main to using the subway.

New York City

Area by Area history and listing all the sights part of the area. Finding your
Manhattan has been divided to be covered. Sights are way around each area is made
into 15 sightseeing areas, each numbered and clearly located simple by the numbering
described separately. Each area on an Area Map. After this comes system. This refers to the order
opens with a portrait, summing a large-scale Street-by-Street Map in which sights are described
up the areas character and focusing on the most interesting on the pages that follow.

NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  169

Color-coding on each page makes
UPPER MIDTOWN
the area easy to find in the book.
Upscale New York in all its diversity is here, in names such as Astor and Vanderbilt. In the
this district of churches and synagogues, clubs 1950s, architectural history was made when
and museums, grand hotels and famous stores, the Lever and Seagram buildings were erected.
as well as trend-setting skyscrapers and pockets These first great modern towers marked
of luxury living. For almost 30 years from Midtown Park Avenues change from a
1833, Upper Midtown was home to society residential street to a prestigious office address.
Recommended restaurants in the
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets
and Buildings
Modern Architecture
2 Trump Tower
Churches and Synagogues
4 St. Thomas Church
area are listed and plotted on the map.
9 Villard Houses 3 IBM Building 8 St. Patricks Cathedral pp18081
q General Electric Building e Lever House 0 St. Bartholomews Church
u Sutton Place r Seagram Building y Central Synagogue
i Beekman Place t Citigroup Center Landmark Hotels
o Roosevelt Island Museums and Galleries w WaldorfAstoria
a Fuller Building
5 Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) s Plaza Hotel
pp1747 Landmark Stores
6 American Folk Art Museum

CE
NT
7 The Paley Center for Media
1 Fifth Avenue
p Bloomingdales Numbered circles pinpoint all the
IC AS

RA
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RK

listed sights on the area map. The

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AM

GRAND Fifth Ave-

W ES ARMY 59th St EA
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E

PLAZA N.Q.R
TH

57th St TH
F ST 60 Lexington Ave-
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Trump Tower, for example, is 2

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areas. The area of the Street-by-

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Street Map is highlighted.

EA
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Restaurants see pp298300

1 Aquavit
2 BLT Steak
3 Dawat
4 Felidia
5 Four Seasons
6 La Grenouille
7 Pampano
8 Rue 57
9 Shun Lee Palace
10 Smith & Wollensky See also Street Finder maps 12, 13, 14

Beautiful stained-glass windows inside St. Patricks Cathedral For map symbols see back flap
170  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA UPPER MIDTOWN  171

1 Area Map Street by Street: Upper Midtown 2 Trump Tower CENTRAL

PARK UPPER
Donald Trumps EAST SIDE

The luxury stores that are Paley Park tower contains

For easy reference, the sights in synonymous with Fifth

Avenue first blossomed as
is a tiny
green oasis,
known as a
luxury residences.
UPPER
MIDTOWN
I.

society moved on uptown. In

elt

vest-pocket
ev
os

each area are numbered and 1917, Cartiers acquired the park. LOWER
Ro

The University Club MIDTOWN

Ri st
r

mansion of banker Morton F.

Ea
ve

was built in 1899 as

Plant in exchange for a string 1 Fifth Avenue an elite club for Locator Map
gentlemen. See Manhattan Map pp1617
of pearls, setting the style for The popular carriage rides offer
located on an area map. To help other retailers to follow. But tourists a taste of past elegance
and a leisurely way to view
this stretch of Midtown is not some of the main sights
3 IBM Building
A restful atrium is to be found
at the base of this polished
black granite building.
Key
simply for shoppers. There are around this thoroughfare. Suggested route

the visitor, the map also shows three distinctive museums

and an equally diverse
assembly of architectural
Sony Building has a very
distinctive Chippendale top. 0 meters 100

0 yards 100

subway stations, heliports, and styles to enjoy, too.

Tiffany & Company is

e Lever House renowned for its discreet

ferry embarkation points.

4 St. Thomas Church
Much of the interior carving This building is one of luxury. The store contains
E

was designed by sculptor the most prominent many precious jewels.

U

Lee Lawrie. glass-box buildings (See p321.)

N
E

in New York.
V

E
A

U
N

5. Museum
E
V

of Modern Art
A

One of the
Stars indicate the sights worlds finest
collections of
modern art.
W
53
RD

that no visitor should miss. ST

N
O
IS

Park Avenue Plaza is a

D

bulky glass prism containing

A

7 The Paley Center an airy atrium. q General Electric Building

M

for Media The spiky pinnacle of

H
FT

Exhibitions, seasons of this building, built in 1931,

Racquet Club, a Renaissance palazzo
FI

special screenings, live Fifth Avenue is meant to symbolize

events and a vast library style building, provides squash and electrical waves.
subway tennis courts for its members.
of historic broadcasts
(lines E, V)
are offered at this
E

media museum.
U

0 St. Bartholomews
N

W
E

The Paley Center for Media 7

Saks Fifth Avenue 51 Church
V

ST
A

has offered goods in A Byzantine dome sets this

ST
impeccable taste to place apart from other
generations of New Midtown churches.

is shown on this map as well. 8. St. Patricks

Yorkers. (See p311.)
K
R

Cathedral
PA

This, one of the largest

Catholic cathedrals in
the United States, is a Olympic Tower
magnificent Gothic combines offices,
Revival building. apartments and a
skylit atrium within 51st Street
its sleek walls. subway (line 6)

9 Villard Houses w Waldorf-Astoria

Five handsome brownstone Old-world elegance has attracted many
houses now form part of the famous guests to this hotel, including
New York Palace Hotel. the late Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
A suggested route for a walk

2
takes in the most attractive and
interesting streets in the area. The Street-by-Street Map
This gives a birds-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing
area. The numbering of the sights ties in with the area map
and the fuller descriptions on the pages that follow.

New York City at a Glance
Each map in this section
concentrates on a specific
theme: Museums, Architecture,
Multicultural New York, and
Remarkable New Yorkers. The top
sights are shown on the map;
other sights are described on
the following two pages.
Each sightseeing area is
color-coded.
172  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Window display at Bergdorf Goodman
(see p319)
1 Fifth Avenue
Map 12 F3F4. q 5th Ave-53rd St,
5th Ave-59th St.
In 1883, when William Henry
Vanderbilt built his mansion at
Fifth Avenue and 51st Street, he
started a trend that resulted in
palatial residences stretching as
far as Central Park, built for top
families such as the Astors,
Belmonts, and Goulds. Only a
few remain to attest to the
grandeur of the era.
One of these is the Cartier
store at 651 Fifth Avenue, once
the home of Morton F. Plant,
millionaire and commodore
of the New York Yacht Club.
As retailers swept north up the
avenue a trend that
began in 1906
society gradually
moved uptown. In
1917, Plant moved to
a mansion at 86th
Street, and legend
has it that he traded
his old home to
Pierre Cartier for a
perfectly matched
string of pearls.
Fifth Avenue has
been synonymous
with luxury goods
ever since. From
Cartier at 52nd Street
to Henri Bendel at
56th and Tiffany and
Bergdorf Goodman
at 57th, you will find
many brands
symbolizing wealth
and social standing
today, just as Astor
and Vanderbilt did
over a century ago. Interior of the Trump Tower atrium
3 Detailed information on each sight
All important sights in each area are described
in depth in this section. They are listed in
order, following the numbering on the
Area Map. Practical information on
opening hours, telephone numbers,
websites, admission charges, and
facilities available is given for each
sight. The key to the symbols used
can be found on the back ap.
The Visitors Checklist
provides the practical information
you will need to plan your visit.
The facade of each major sight is
shown to help you spot it quickly.
Stars indicate the most interesting
architectural details of the building,
and the most important works of
art or exhibits on view inside.
Numbered circles point out key
features of the sight listed in a key.
2 Trump Tower
725 5th Ave. Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 832-
2000. q 5th Ave-53rd St, 5th Ave
59th St. Garden level Open
10am6pm MonSat, noon5pm Sun.
Building Open 8am10pm daily. 7
0-=
This glittering, exorbitantly
expensive apartment and office
tower rises above a lavish six-
story atrium. Designed in 1983
by Der Scutt of Swanke, Hayden,
Connell & Partners, the public
space has pink marble, mirrors
and glitz throughout. There is
an impressive 80-ft (24-m) high
indoor waterfall, while the
exterior is lined with hanging
gardens. The tower is a
flamboyant monument to
affluence by the developer
Donald Trump, a symbol of the
excesses and grandeur of the
1980s (see p33).
Next door, 727 Fifth Avenue
is a complete contrast: the
location of Tiffany & Co., the
prestigious jewelers founded
in 1837. Famed for exquisite
window displays, the store
uses understated but elegant
blue packaging as a status
symbol in itself. Tiffanys was
immortalized by Truman
Capote in his 1958 novel
Breakfast at Tiffanys.
St. Patricks Cathedral
Entrance to Tiffany & Co., the exclusive
jewelry emporium
3 IBM Building
590 Madison Ave. Map 12 F3.
q 5th Ave. Garden Plaza
Open 8am10pm daily. 7
Completed in 1983, this 43-story
tower was designed by Edward
Larrabee Barnes. It is a sleek,
five-sided prism of gray-green
polished granite, with a
cantilevered corner at 57th
Street. The Garden
Plaza, with its
bamboo trees, is
open to the public
and has been
redubbed The
Sculpture Garden.
Eight new works,
which change four
times a year, are on
view at any one time.
Near the atrium is a
work by American
sculptor Michael
Heizer, entitled
Levitated Mass. Inside
a low, stainless-steel
tank is a huge slab of
granite that seems to
float on air.
On the corner
of 57th Street and
Madison Avenue
is Saurien, a bright-
orange abstract
sculpture by
Alexander Calder.
4 St. Thomas
Church
1 W 53rd St. Map 12 F4. Tel (212) 757-
7013. q 5th Ave-53rd St. Open
7am6pm daily. 5 frequent. ^ 7
8 after 11am service & concerts.
saintthomaschurch.org
This is the fourth home for this
parish and the second on this
site. Todays church was built
between 1909 and 1914 to
replace an earlier structure
destroyed in a fire in 1905.
The previous building had
provided the setting for many
of the glittering high-society
weddings of the late 19th
century. The most lavish of
these was in 1895 when heiress
Consuelo Vanderbilt married the
English Duke of Marlborough.
The limestone building,
in FrenchGothic style, has
a single asymmetrical tower
and an off-center nave, novel
solutions to the architectural
problems posed by its corner
position. The richly carved,
shimmering white screens
behind the altar were designed
by architect Bertram Goodhue
and sculptor Lee Lawrie.
Carvings in the choir stalls,
dating from the 1920s, include
modern inventions such as
the telephone, Presidents
Roosevelt and Wilson, and
Lee Lawrie himself.
5Museum of
Modern Art
See pp1725.
6 American Folk
Art Museum
45 W 53rd St. Map 12 F4. Tel (212)
265-1040. q 5th Ave- 53rd St.
Open noon7:30pm TueSat,
noon6pm Sun. & 7 8 - =
folkartmuseum.org
The permanent home for
the appreciation and study of
American folk art is here, in the
first free-standing art museum
built in New York since 1966.
Designed by the innovative
architectural firm of Tod Williams
Billie Tsien & Associates and
built in 2001, the structure is
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
38  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E  39
New Yorks Best: Museums American Museum
New Yorks museums range from the vast scope of
the Metropolitan Museum to the personal treasures
of Natural History
Dinosaurs, meteorites
and much more
have fascinated
of financier J. Pierpont Morgans own collection. Several
museums celebrate New Yorks heritage, giving visitors
an insight into the people and events that made the city
generations of
visitors here.
Morningside
what it is today. This map features some highlights, with
a detailed overview on pages 40 and 41.
Museum of Modern Art
Heights and
Harlem
Museum of the City of New York
Costumes, works of art and household
Intrepid Picassos She-Goat (1950) is
Sea-Air-Space Museum among the impressive collection objects (such as this 1725 silver dish)
This military and maritime history on display in the renovated create an intricate and detailed
museum also traces the progress Museum of Modern Art. picture of New Yorks past.
of flight exploration. It is Upper West
housed in a large aircraft
carrier situated
at Pier 86.
r
Side
Cooper-Hewitt Museum
A wealth of decorative arts
ve is displayed in industrialist
H
ud
so
n
Ri Central
Park
Andrew Carnegies former
Upper East Side mansion.
Morgan Library
& Museum
One of the worlds Upper
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
Painting and sculpture by almost all
major avant-garde artists of the late
finest collections of East Side
manuscripts, prints and
books includes this rare
French Bible from 1230. Theater
19th and 20th centuries fill Frank Lloyd
Wrights stunningly renovated building.
District
Merchants Metropolitan
House Museum Upper Museum of Art
This perfectly preserved Midtown Of the millions of
Chelsea Lower
1832 house belonged works in its collection,
and the Midtown
to a wealthy trader. this 12th-dynasty
Garment
Egyptian faence
District
Gramercy
hippo is the museums
own mascot.
Greenwich
Village
and the
Flatiron
District
Whitney Museum
Ellis Island of American Art
This museum vividly This exceptional
re-creates the experiences East
SoHo and collection includes
of many millions of Village
TriBeCa many views of New
immigrant families. York. One of the best is
er
Riv
Brooklyn Bridge: Variation
Lower East Side,
on an Old Theme (1939),
st
Chinatown and
Ea
Seaport by Joseph Stella.
Little Italy
and the
Civic
Lower Center Frick Collection
Manhattan The collection of 19th-century rail-road
magnate Henry Clay Frick is displayed in his
0 kilometers 2
former home. Masterpieces include St. Francis
0 miles 1 in the Desert (about 1480) by Giovanni Bellini.
UPPER MIDTOWN  173
Practical Information
lists all the information you
need to visit every sight,
including a map reference
Beatles Paul, Ringo and John on the Ed Sullivan Show in 1964 to the Street Finder at the
clad in panels of white tombasil, Beatles or a young Elvis Presley
a white bronze alloy. The
museum has 30,000 sq ft (2,787
making his television debut.
Sports enthusiasts can relive
back of the book.
sq m) of exhibition space on classic Olympic competitions.
eight levels. The museum still World War II footage might be
retains the Eva and Morris Feld chosen by students of history
Gallery at the Lincoln Square or by those who lived through
location (see p214). the war. Six choices at any one
time can be selected from a
computer catalogue that
covers a library of over 50,000
programs. The selections are
then played on small private
areas. There are larger
screening areas and a theater
for 200, where retrospectives of
artists and directors are shown.
There are also photo exhibits
and memorabilia.
The museum was the brain-
child of William S. Paley, a former
head of the CBS TV network. It
opened in 1975 as the Museum
of Broadcasting on East 53rd
Street. It proved so popular
Numbers refer to each
that in 1991 it moved into this
The American Folk Art Museum hi-tech $50 million home in a
building reminiscent
of an antique
sights position on the
7 The Paley Center
for Media
radio set.
area map and its place
25 W 52nd St. Map 12 F4. Tel (212)
621-6800. q 5th Ave-53rd
St. Open noon6pm Wed
Sun (to 8pm Thu). Closed
in the chapter.
public hols. & ^ 7 8
= paleycenter.org
In this one-of-a-kind
repository museum, visitors
can watch and listen to
news and a collection of
entertainment and sports
documentaries from radio
and televisions earliest
days to the present. Pop
fans can see the early 1960s television star Lucille Ball
 
180 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA UPPER MIDTOWN 181
. Lady Chapel Saint Elizabeth Ann
8
The Roman Catholic Church originally intended
this site for use as a cemetery, but in 1850
This chapel honors the
Blessed Virgin. The
stained-glass windows
Seton Shrine
The bronze statue and
screen depict the life of
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
5th Ave and 50th St.
the first American to be
Archbishop John Hughes decided to build a
cathedral instead. Many thought that it was
foolish to build so far beyond the (then) city
portray the mysteries of
the rosary. canonized a saint. She
founded the Sisters of
Charity (see p78).
Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 753-2261.
Open 6:30am8:45pm daily.
5 frequent MonSat; 7, 8, 9,
limits, but Hughes went ahead anyway.
Architect James Renwick built New Yorks finest
Gothic Revival building, one of the largest
10:15am & noon, 1, 4 (in Spanish)
& 5:30pm Sun. 7 = Concerts,
recitals, lectures.
saintpatrickscathedral.org
Catholic cathedrals in the US. The cathedral,
which seats 2,500 people, was completed
in 1878, though the spires were added
Transport
q 6 to 51st St; E, V to Fifth Ave.
@ M15, M50, Q32.
between 1885 and 1888.
Piet
. Great Organ and
Rose Window
American Measuring 26 ft (8 m) in diameter,
sculptor William the rose window shines above the
O. Partridge great organ, which has more than
created this 7,000 pipes.
Piet in 1906.
The statue
stands at the
side of the
Lady Chapel.
The cathedrals Fifth
Avenue facade
. Great Bronze Doors
The massive doors weigh 20,000 lb
(9,000 kg) and are adorned with
important religious figures.
KEY
. Baldachin
The great baldachin rising
1 The Cathedral Facades exterior
wall is built of white marble. The
spires rise 330 ft (101 m) above
over the high altar is made
entirely of bronze. Statues
of the saints and prophets
Stations of the Cross
Carved of Caen stone in Holland,
these reliefs won first prize in the Main entrance
the pavement.
2 Crypt
adorn the four piers field of religious art at the Chicago 3 Lady of Guadalupe
supporting the canopy. Worlds Fair in 1893.
4 New Yorks major sights
These are given two or more full pages in the sightseeing
area in which they are found. Notable buildings are dissected
to reveal their interiors; and museums and galleries have
color-coded oor plans to help you nd particular exhibits.
INTRODUCING
NEW YORK
CITY

Great Days in New York City 1011

Putting New York City on
the Map 1417
The History of New York City 1835
New York City at a Glance 3651
New York City Through
the Year 5255
The Manhattan Skyline 5663
10  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

GREAT DAYS IN
NEW YORK CITY
New York is a city packed with treasures
of things to see and do. Whether here for
several days, or just wanting a flavor of
this great city, you need to make the most
of your time. Over the following pages,
youll find itineraries for some of the best
attractions New York has to offer, arranged
first by theme and then by length of stay.
Theres a mix of activities, and the schedules
are not meant to be rigid youll find
ample time to explore places that catch
your fancy. Price guides show the cost for
two adults or for a family of two adults and
two children including lunch.

chowder or a platter of Long

City Landmarks
Two adults
allow at least $140
A tour of the UN
Modern, Art Deco, and
Beaux Arts edifices
Lights of Times Square
Empire State Building
Morning
Start at the East River with
a guided tour of the United
Nations headquarters (see
pp1625), with its striking
modern architecture. Then
head to 42nd Street, detouring
into the unique residential
enclave of Tudor City (see p160),
and dropping in to admire the
Art Deco interior of the Chrysler
Building (see p157). Next is
Grand Central Terminal, a great
Beaux Arts landmark (see pp158
9). Admire the Main Concourse
and explore the shopping
gallery, colorful food market, and
a food court with everything
from sushi to Southern barbecue
to New York cheesecake.
Another lunchtime option is
The neon lights of Times Square, the citys famous crossroads
Aerial view of the tip of Manhattan in 1942
Island oysters at the Grand
Central Oyster Bar (see p299).
Afternoon
Back on 42nd Street is another
Beaux Arts creation, the New
York Public Library (see p148;
free 1-hour tours at 11am
and 2pm TueThu). The marble
halls, stairways, Main Reading
Room and Periodicals Room
are highlights. Check your
e-mail for free in the Bill Blass
Public Catalog Room. Look
out also for current exhibits.
Behind the library is Bryant
Park (see p147), a welcome
oasis of green in midtown.
Ahead is New Yorks most
famous crossroads, Times
Square (see p149), gateway
to the glittering neon of
Broadway. Just beyond is 42nd
Street, now a bright avenue of
restored theaters, giant movie
palaces, and Madame
Tussauds Wax Museum, with
many true-to-life celebrities.
Hail a cab to the Empire State
Building (see pp1389) and end
the day with a fine twilight
view of the city from the
86th-floor observatory.
Glistening Prometheus Statue and Lower
Plaza at Rockefeller Center
Art and Shopping
Two adults
allow at least $135
A morning of modern art
Lunch at the Rockefeller
Center
Fifth Avenue shopping
Tea at The Pierre
Morning
The spectacular Museum
of Modern Art (MoMA) (see
pp1747) will easily fill your
morning with its wonderful
art. Allow a couple of hours to
enjoy its great works, including
van Goghs The Starry Night and
Claude Monets Water Lilies, as
well as Picassos Les Demoiselles
dAvignon, to name just a few.
Dont miss the design exhibits
on floor three; one of MoMAs
best-known facets. Leave the
museum and stroll over to the
Rockefeller Center (see p146)
for lunch at the Rock Center
Caf, where you can watch the
ice skaters in winter. In summer
the rink is transformed into a
leafy garden, where you can
dine at the Rink Bar.

Afternoon
After lunch, head for St. Patricks
Cathedral (see pp18081), the
largest Catholic cathedral in
the US and one of the citys
finest places of worship. Then
continue along Fifth Avenue
for an afternoon of upscale
shopping. Saks Fifth Avenue is
just across the street from St.
Patricks at 50th Street. Heading
uptown, the temptations include
a dizzying variety of glitzy shops,
such as Cartier (52nd St), Henri
Bendel (5556th sts), Prada,
Tiffany (57th St), and Bergdorf
Goodman (5758 sts). End the
day on Lexington Avenue with
a final splurge enjoy a drink
at Whiskey Blue (see p308).
Historic New York
Two adults
allow at least $120
A boat trip to Ellis Island
and the Statue of Liberty
Lunch at Fraunces Tavern
A tour of Old New York
Morning
At Battery Park, board the
ferry to the Statue of Liberty
(see pp767) and on to
Ellis Island (see pp8081), the
point of arrival for many
immigrants (round trip includes
both stops). On your return,
exit the park at Bowling Green,
the citys oldest park (see p75).
Walk to the Fraunces Tavern
Museum (see p78), New Yorks
last block of 18th-century
commercial buildings. The
recreated Tavern includes a
museum of the revolutionary
period and a restaurant that
is the perfect choice for an
atmospheric lunch.
Afternoon
A block away is Stone Street
Historic District, rebuilt after
a fire in 1835. Look for India
House (see p58), once the New
York Cotton Exchange, now
Harrys Caf. Take William Street
to Wall Street and Federal Hall
(see p70), with exhibits on the
US Constitution. Nearby is the
New York Stock Exchange
G R E AT D AY S I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  11
(see pp723) and Trinity
Church (see p70), built in 1839.
Go up Broadway to St. Pauls
Chapel (see p93), miraculously
unscathed after the World Trade
Center fell behind it. Ahead is
City Hall (see p92). Finally, head
for the South Street Seaport
Historic District, heart of the
19th-century port (see pp845),
with a view of the awesome
Brooklyn Bridge (see pp8891).
A Family Fun Day
Family of four Central Park, a vast area of fun activities,
allow at least $225 animals, and places to play
A morning in Central Park
Marionette Theater, at West
Lunch at the Boathouse
79th, presents classic fairy tales
Dinosaurs at the American at 10:30am and noon TueFri
Museum of Natural (Wed also 2:30pm) and 1pm
History Sat; book ahead. Rent bikes
or take a boat out on the lake,
then lunch at the Boathouse,
Morning which has a view of the lake.
Central Park (see pp20711) In winter, you can ice skate
was made for family fun. Ride at the Wollman Rink.
the vintage Carousel, watch
model boats in action at Afternoon
Conservatory Pond, visit the Depending on ages and
Zoo, then watch the animal interests, choose between the
parade on the Delacorte clock interactive Childrens Museum
on the half-hour. There are of Manhattan (see p221), or the
themed playgrounds to please famous dinosaurs and dioramas
all ages: Safari at West 91st at the American Museum of
Street (25 years); Adventure Natural History (see pp21819).
at West 67th Street (612 Finish up on West 73rd Street
years). The Swedish Cottage for a wee tea at Alices Tea Cup.
Ellis Island, the view greeting early immigrants to New York
12  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY
2 days in
New York City
Marvel at the
masterpieces in the Met
Ascend the Empire State
Building for iconic views
Take a boat to the Statue
of Liberty and Ellis Island
Day 1
Morning Start with a 1-hour
guided tour of the citys vast
Metropolitan Museum of Art
(pp1929), known as the Met,
daily at 10:15am. Follow
this with a walk through
neighboring Central Park
(pp206211), with views of the
lake and the skyline beyond.
Afternoon Hop on the Fifth
Avenue bus to 59th Street and
Grand Army Plaza, then walk on
down Fifth Avenue (p172) to the
Rockefeller Center (p146) at
49th Street, passing shopping
meccas such as Bergdorf
Goodman, Tiffany, Trump Tower,
and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well
as the striking St. Patricks
Cathedral (pp18081). Visit the
89th-floor observatory at the
Empire State Building (pp1389)
for the legendary panorama of
the city. For souvenir shopping,
the worlds largest store, Macys
(pp1367), is a block west. After
dark, enjoy the bright lights of
Times Square (p149), and take
in a Broadway (p336) show.
Check the TKTS booth on Times
Square for discount seats.
Day 2
Morning To avoid long lines
head to Battery Park (p79) early
to catch the boat to the Statue
of Liberty (pp767) and Ellis
Island (pp8081), the symbol of
Americas immigrant heritage.
There will be time on your return
to visit the moving National
September 11 Memorial
and Museum (p74), in Lower
Manhattan. Book in advance.
Afternoon Stroll down
Wall Street, taking in the
monumental Neo-Classical
facade of the New York Stock
Exchange (pp723) on the
corner of Broad Street. Next,
View uptown over the vast expanse of Central Park
head to historic South Street of Frank Lloyd Wrights Solomon
Seaport (p86), once the hub of R. Guggenheim Museum
New Yorks seafaring activity. (pp19091) to admire the
Spend a couple of hours amazing architecture, and
wandering this cobblestone linger to see some modern art.
neighborhood, now home to
historic ships, museums, food Afternoon Take a walk on the
stalls, and shops. End the day High Line (p140), the citys park
with a sunset walk across in the sky, then stroll around the
Brooklyn Bridge (pp8891). leafy lanes of trendy Greenwich
Village (pp11017) and browse
3 days in its many stores. At night, sample
New York City the lively cafs of SoHo (pp104
109), or opt for a show at the
Enjoy modern art at MoMA Lincoln Center for the
Visit the National Performing Arts (p216).
September 11 Memorial
and Museum Day 3
Morning Start with the citys
See a show on Broadway
symbol of freedom, the Statue
of Liberty (pp767), and a visit
Day 1 to the fascinating Ellis Island
Morning Take in city views (pp8081); arrive early at Battery
from the top of the Empire Park (p79) for shorter lines for
State Building (pp1389), then the boat ride. Afterward, take
stroll up Fifth Avenue (p172) time to visit the National
with its luxury stores. Detour September 11 Memorial
along 42nd Street to see the and Museum (p74).
beautiful interiors of the Grand
Central Terminal (pp1589), then
continue on to the Rockefeller
Center (p146) for an exploratory
wander. St. Patricks Cathedral
(pp18081) is across the street.
Afternoon See masterpieces
at the Museum of Modern Art
(pp1747) and shop for souvenirs
at the MoMA store or Macys
(pp1367). At night, the bright
lights of Broadway (p336) beckon.
Day 2
Morning After a stroll through
Central Park (pp206211), visit
the Metropolitan Museum of The spiral rotunda of Frank Lloyd Wrights
Art (pp1929). Step into the lobby Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

Afternoon Visit the fascinating
Museum of Jewish Heritage
(p79), then wander down Wall
Street to see the grand New
York Stock Exchange (pp723).
End the day with a stroll and an
early dinner in South Street
Seaport (p86), from where
there are also great views of
Brooklyn Bridge (pp8891).
5 days in
New York City
Take a walk in Central Park
Explore Greenwich Village,
SoHo, and Chelsea
View the city from across
beautiful Brooklyn Bridge
Day 1
Morning Head to Fifth Avenue
(p172) to browse its famous stores
and nearby sights, including
St. Patricks Cathedral (pp180
81) and the Rockefeller Center
(p146) with its Art Deco sky-
scrapers and beautiful gardens.
Afternoon Enjoy the open
spaces of Central Park (pp206
211), the masterpieces at the
Metropolitan Museum of Art
(pp1929), and great views from
atop the Empire State Building
(pp1389). In the evening, take
in the lights of Broadway (p336).
Day 2
Morning The boat ride to the
Statue of Liberty (pp767) and
Ellis Island (pp801) is a thrill,
offering remarkable photo
opportunities. Take the boat
back late morning and visit the
National September 11
Memorial and Museum (p74),
a very poignant experience.
Afternoon Visit the vibrant
Museum of Jewish Heritage
(p79), then make your way to
Wall Street for a stroll through
the skyscraper canyons and
to see the New York Stock
Exchange (pp723). Look out
for the Federal Hall (p70) along
the way. Next, spend a couple
of hours exploring South
Street Seaport (p86), the citys
old maritime center and now a
lively complex with museums,
shops, and restaurants.
G R E AT D AY S I N N E W YO R K C I T Y
Day 3
Morning Spend the morning
exploring two major museums,
the Museum of Modern Art
(pp1747) and Frank Lloyd
Wrights Solomon R.
Guggenheim Museum
(pp19091), both with exciting
modern art collections.
Afternoon Explore Manhattans
neighborhoods: the quaint,
historic streets and lively cafs
of Greenwich Village (pp110117),
the shops and classic cast-iron
buildings of SoHo (pp106107),
or peruse a few of the many art
galleries of Chelsea (pp13241).
Take a walk along the citys
most unusual park, the High
Line (p140), ending with the
upscale boutiques on 14th
Street in the trendy Meat
Packing District (pp11415).
Day 4
Morning Explore the Upper
West Side (pp21221), walking
down to Columbus Circle
(p217). Take a tour of the
United Nations (pp1625)
headquarters, then explore the
Lower East Side (pp94103),
where the Lower East Side
Tenement Museum (p99) tells
the tale of life in the citys old
tenements. Orchard Street
(p100), a mix of bargain stores
and hip boutiques, serves the
newest generation of residents.
Afternoon Check out some
big-name stores, such as
Lord & Taylor (p311) and
Bloomingdales (p183), or take in
at least one more museum. The
Frick Collection (pp204205),
Elevated walkway on the Brooklyn Bridge, the worlds rst steel-wire suspension bridge
 13
The Immigration Museum on Ellis Island,
where 12 million US immigrants arrived
housed in a palatial gilded-age
mansion, has an outstanding
collection of Old Masters.
Alternatively, visit the Whitney
Museum (pp202203), home to
the entire range of 20th-century
American art. In the evening,
head to Harlem (pp2745) for a
jazz club or to see a show at the
famous Apollo Theater (p275).
Day 5
Morning Walk across Brooklyn
Bridge (pp8891) to Brooklyn
Heights Promenade (p269) for
views of Manhattan. A subway
ride leads to Brooklyns
impressive Grand Army Plaza
(p250) and the world-class
Brooklyn Museum (pp2525).
Afternoon Spend some time
admiring the lovely Brooklyn
Botanic Garden (p251), famous
for its Japanese Garden, and
Prospect Park (pp25051), laid
out by Central Parks designers.
Visit the Brooklyn Academy of
Music (p250) for avant-garde
theater and dance.
 14  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Putting New York City on the Map

New York is a city of eight million people, covering
301 sq miles (780 sq km). The city gets its name from
the state of New York, the capital of which is Albany,
156 miles (251 km) to the north. New York is also
a good base from which to visit the historic cities
of Boston and Philadelphia, as well as the
Watertown
nations capital, Washington, DC.

Lester B Toronto
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 PUT TING NEW YORK CITY ON THE MAP  15

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A t l a n t i c
Eatontown
Trenton
O c e a n
Philadelphia Liverpool,
Southampton,
Camden Gibraltar
Toms River
Philadelphia NEW
Wilmington JERSEY
Key
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Atlantic State highway
City
Major railroad line
Dover Delaware International border
Bay Shipping route
0 kilometers 100
State line
0 miles 50
D E L AWA R E

San Juan, Cape Town, For keys to symbols see back flap
Panama Rio de Janeiro
16  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Manhattan
This guide divides Manhattan into 15 areas, each with
its own chapter. Many of New Yorks oldest and newest
buildings rub shoulders in Lower Manhattan. It is from here,
too, that you can take the Staten Island ferry, for breath-
taking views of the citys skyline and the Statue of Liberty.
Midtown includes the Theater District and Fifth Avenues
glittering shops. Museum Mile, alongside Central Park on
Upper East Side, is a cultural paradise. To the north lies
Harlem, the USs most famous African-American community.
Grand Central Terminal
This Beaux Arts station has been
a gateway to the city since 1913.
Its concourse is a vast pedestrian
area with a high-vaulted roof
(see pp1589).

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One of the worlds finest collections of rare U
EN ST TIMES
Rockefeller
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V E
manuscripts, prints, and books is on display A
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V

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in this palazzo-style building (see pp1667).

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14
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Cathedral of
St. John the Divine
When it is finished, at
some time after the mid-
21st century, this great
cathedral will be the
largest in the world. It is
also a theater and music
venue (see pp2289).
 PUT TING NEW YORK CITY ON THE MAP  17

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St. Patrick's
Cathedral

MIDTOWN
Grand 4 8
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Central T H
ST
ST
R
EE
T
UN
Headquarters

Metropolitan Museum of Art

With a stunning collection of artifacts dating from
prehistoric times to the present, this is one of the
worlds greatest museums (see pp1929).

Solomon R.
Brooklyn Bridge Guggenheim Museum
This bridge spans the East A masterpiece of
River between Manhattan and architecture by Frank Lloyd
Brooklyn. Built in 1883, it was Wright, this unique building
the largest suspension bridge contains a fine collection
and the first to be constructed of 19th- and 20th-century
of steel (see pp8891). painting (see pp19091).
 INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY
THE HISTORY OF
NE W YORK CITY
From its first sighting almost 500 years ago
by Giovanni da Verrazano, New Yorks harbor
was the prize that all of Europe wanted to
capture. The Dutch first sent fur traders to
the area in 1621, but they lost the colony
they called New Amsterdam to the English
in 1664. The settlement was re-christened
New York and the name stayed, even after
the English lost the colony in 1783, at the
end of the Revolutionary War.
The Growing City
In the 19th century, New York grew
rapidly and became a major port. Ease
of shipping spawned manufacturing,
commerce was king, and great fortunes
were made. In 1898, Manhattan was
joined with the four outer boroughs
to form the worlds second-largest city.
From 1800 to 1900, the population grew
from 79,000 to 3 million people. New York
A deed signed by New Amsterdams last Dutch governor, Peter Stuyvesant, in 1664
The southern half of Manhattan and part of Brooklyn in 1767
 19
City became the countrys cultural
and entertainment mecca as well as
its business center.
The Melting Pot
The city continued to grow as thousands
of immigrants came seeking a better life.
Overpopulation meant that many at first
lived in slums. Today, the mix of cultures has
enriched the city and become its defining
quality. Its eight million inhabitants speak
some 100 languages.
Manhattans skyline took shape as the
city grew skyward to make space for its
ever-increasing population. Throughout
its history, the city has experienced
alternating periods of economic decline
and growth, but it remains one of the
worlds most vital cities.
The following pages illustrate significant
periods in New Yorks history.
20  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Early New York City

Manhattan was a forested land populated by Algonquian-
speaking Natives when the Dutch West India Company
established a fur trading post called New Amsterdam in
1625. The first settlers built houses helter-skelter, so even
today the streets of Lower Manhattan still twist. Broadway,
then called by the Dutch name Breede Wegh, began as
an Indian trail known as the Weekquaesgeek Growth of the Metropolis
Trail. Harlem has also kept its Dutch 1664 Today

name. The town was unruly until Peter

Stuyvesant arrived to bring order.
But the colony did not produce the Seal of New Netherland
The beaver pelt and wampum
expected revenues, and in 1664
(Indian shell beads) on the seal
the Dutch let it fall to the English, were the currency of the colony
who renamed it New York. of New Netherland.

First View of Manhattan (1626)

The First New Yorkers
The southern tip of Manhattan resembled a
Algonquian-speaking
Dutch town, down to the windmill. Although
Natives were the first
inhabitants of Manhattan. shown here, the fort had not yet been built.

Dutch ships

Iroquois Pot
Iroquois Indians
were frequent visitors
to early Manhattan.

Indian Village
Some Algonquians
lived in longhouses
on Manhattan before
the Dutch arrived.

Native canoe

1524 Giovanni da Verrazano sails 1626 Peter Minuit buys 1653 Wall is built for
into New York harbor Manhattan from the Natives protection from
attack; adjacent street
1625 Dutch establish first is called Wall Street
permanent trading post

1600 1620 1640

1609 Henry Hudson 1625 First black 164345 Indian 1654 First
sails up the slaves brought skirmishes end with Jewish
Hudson River from Africa temporary peace treaty settlers
in search of the arrive
Northwest 1647 Peter Stuyvesant
Passage becomes colonial governor
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  21

Dutch Delftware
Colonists brought
this popular tinglazed
earthenware pottery
from Holland.

Tiger timbers
Manhattan Skyline Where to see
The Strand, now Whitehall Dutch New York
Street, was the site of the
citys first brick house. Dug up by workmen in 1916, these
remnants of a Dutch ship, the Tiger, which
burned in 1613, are the earliest artifacts of
the period and are now in the Museum of
the City of New York (see p201). Rooms in
this museum, as well as in the Morris-Jumel
Mansion (see p237) and the Van Cortlandt
House Museum (see p242), display Dutch
pottery, tiles, and furniture.

Purchase of Manhattan
Fort
Peter Minuit bought the island
Amsterdam
from the Natives in 1626 for
$24 worth of trinkets.

Peter Stuyvesant
The last Dutch governor was a
tyrant who imposed strict laws
such as an edict closing all
the citys taverns at 9 oclock.

1660 First city hospital established 1676 Great

Dock built on
1664 British forces oust Dutch East River 1698 Trinity Church
without a fight and change dedicated
name to New York

1660 1680 1700

The surrender of New 1683 First New York 1693 Ninety-two cannons
Amsterdam to the British city charter established installed for protection; area
becomes known as the Battery
1680s Bolting Laws give 1689 Merchant Jacob Leisler
New York exclusive right leads revolt against taxes and 1691 Leisler sentenced to
to process and ship grain takes over the city for two years death for treason
22  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Colonial New York City

Under British rule, New York prospered and the population grew
rapidly. The bolting of flour (grinding grain) was the main commercial
enterprise. Shipbuilding also flourished. As the city prospered, an
elite emerged that could afford a more refined way of life, and fine
furniture and household silver were made for use in their homes
during the Colonial period. During more than a century of governing
New York, Britain proved more interested in profit than in the welfare Growth of the Metropolis
of the colony. The Crown imposed hated taxes, and the spirit of 1760 Today

rebellion grew, although loyalties were divided, especially in New

York. On the eve of Revolution, New York was the second-largest city
in the 13 colonies, with 20,000 citizens.

Colonial currency Bedroom

This early paper
money was based on
the British pound.

Dining
Colonial Street room
Pigs and dogs roamed free on the
streets of Colonial New York.

Shipping
Trade with the West Indies and
Britain helped New York prosper.
In some years, 200 or more
vessels visited the port.

Kas
This Dutch-style pine wardrobe
was made in New Yorks Hudson
River valley around 1720.

1711 Slave market

1702 Lord Cornbury appointed set up at the foot 1734 John Peter
Colonial governor; he often wore of Wall Street Zengers libel trial
womens clothes upholds freedom
1720 First shipyard opens of the press

1700 1710 1720 1730

1710 Iroquois 1732 First city

chief Hendrick 1725 New York theater opens
visits England Gazette, citys first
newspaper, is 1733 Bowling Green
established becomes first city park;
first ferries to Brooklyn
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  23

Captain Kidd
The Scottish pirate William Kidd Where to see
was a respected citizen, lending Colonial New York
a block and tackle to help build
Trinity Church (see p70). Colonial buildings are open to the
public at Historic Richmond Town on
Staten Island (see p256). Fine examples
of Colonial silver and furniture are on
Van Cortlandt House display at the Museum of the City of
Frederick Van Cortlandt built New York (see p201).
this Georgian-style house in 1748
on a wheat plantation in what is
now the Bronx. Today a museum
(see p242), it shows how a well-
to-do Dutch-English family
once lived.

West parlor

Richmond Town General Store

Colonial Kitchen
Plain white cheese, called white meat,
was often served in place of meat. Waffles,
introduced by the Dutch, were popular. Fresh
fruit was rare, but preserved fruits were eaten.

Pewter baby bottle

Cheese mold Waffle iron

Decorative Carvings
A face carved in stone peers
over each of the front windows. Sucket fork, for eating preserved fruits

1754 French and Indian War

1741 Slave uprising creates begins; Kings College (now
hysteria; 31 slaves are executed, Columbia University) founded British soldier
150 imprisoned
1759 First jail built

1740 1750 1760

Kings College 1762 First paid

police force

1763 War ends; British

gain control of North
America
 24  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Revolutionary New York City

Dug up into trenches for defense, heavily shelled by British
troops, and scarred by recurring fires, New York suffered
during the American Revolution. But, despite
the hardships, many continued to enjoy
cricket games, horse races, balls, and
boxing matches. After the British took the
city in 1776, it became their headquarters. Growth of the Metropolis
The Continental army did not return to 1776 Today

Manhattan until November 25, 1783,

two years after the fighting ended.
Battle Dress
The Continental
(Patriot) army wore
blue uniforms, while
the British wore red.

Soldiers Haversack
American soldiers in the
War of Independence British soldier
carried their supplies
in haversacks. Toppling the King
New Yorkers tore down the
statue of King George III in
American soldier Bowling Green and melted it
down to make ammunition.

Patriot
Battle of Harlem Heights
Washington won this battle on
September 16, 1776. But he did
not have enough troops to hold
New York, so retreated, leaving
it to the British.

Death of a Patriot
While working behind
British lines in 1776,
Nathan Hale was
captured and hanged
by the British without
trial for spying.

1767 New duties

1765 British pass Stamp imposed with 1770 Sons of 1774 Rebels dump
Act; New Yorkers Townshend Act; Liberty fight British tea in New York
protest; Sons of Liberty after protests, the in the Battle of harbor to protest
formed act is repealed Golden Hill taxes

1760 1770 1780

1766 St. Pauls Chapel General William Howe, 1776 War begins;
St. Pauls completed; Stamp Act commander in chief of 500 ships under
Chapel repealed; Statue of the British troops General Howe
George III erected on assemble in New
Bowling Green York harbor
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  25

Firefighters
Fires had long threatened the city,
but during the war a series of fires
nearly destroyed it. In the wake of
the Patriot retreat, on September
21, 1776, a devastating fire razed
Trinity Church
and 1,000
houses.

Leather fire bucket

Flags of the Revolution

Washingtons army flew the Continental colors,
with a stripe for each of the 13 colonies and a
Union Jack in the corner. The Stars and Stripes
became the official flag in 1777.
First Stars and Stripes

General Washington Returns

Washington received a heros welcome when he Continental colors
reentered New York on November 25, 1783,
after the British withdrawal.

Statue of Where to see the

Cheering Revolutionary City
George III
patriots
In 1776, George Washington
used the Morris-Jumel Mansion
in upper Manhattan as a
headquarters (see p237). He also
slept at the Van Cortlandt House
(see p23 and p242). After the war
he bade farewell to his officers at
Fraunces Tavern (see p78).

Morris-Jumel mansion

1789 George 1790 US capital is 1801 New York Post founded

1783 Treaty of Paris Washington moved to Philadelphia by Alexander Hamilton
signed, US wins inaugurated as first
independence; British president at 1794 Bellevue Hospital
evacuate New York Federal Hall opens on the East River

1790 1800

1785 New 1792 Tontine Coffee House built

York named first home of the Stock Exchange 1804 Vice President
US capital Aaron Burr kills
1791 New York Hospital, citys political rival
1784 Bank of New oldest, opens Alexander Hamilton
York chartered Washingtons inauguration in a duel
 26  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

New York City in the 19th Century

Firmly established as the nations largest city and preeminent
seaport, New York grew increasingly wealthy. Manufacturing
increased due to the ease of shipping; tycoons like John Jacob
Astor made millions. The rich moved uptown; public
transportation followed. With rapid growth came fires,
epidemics, and financial panics. Immigrants from Ireland,
Germany, and other nations arrived. Some found prosperity; Growth of the Metropolis
others crowded into slums in Lower Manhattan. 1840 Today

Croton Distributing Reservoir was built

in 1842. Until then, New Yorkers had no
fresh drinking water they relied on
deliveries of bottled water.

Sheet Music
The Stephen Foster
ballad Jeanie with the
Light Brown Hair was
popular at this time.

Omnibus
The horse-drawn
omnibus was
introduced for
Keeping Fit public transportation
Gymnasiums such as Dr. Richs Institute for in 1832 and remained on
Physical Education were established in New New York streets until World War I.
York in the 1830s and 1840s.

1811 Randel Plan divides Manhattan into The Constitution, most famous
1805 First free
state schools grid pattern above 14th Street ship in War of 1812
established in 181214 War of 1812; British
1835 Much of old
New York blockade New York harbor
New York razed in
citys worst fire
1810 1820 1830

1807 Robert 1822 Yellow fever 1827 New York 1837 New Yorker Samuel Morse
Fulton launches epidemic; people evacuate abolishes slavery sends first telegraph message
first steamboat, to Greenwich Village
on the Hudson 1823 New York surpasses
River Boston and Philadelphia to
become nations largest city
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  27

The Brownstone
Many brownstone row The Port of New York
houses were built in the New Yorks importance as a port
first half of the century. city grew by leaps and bounds in
The raised stoop allowed the early 19th century. Robert
separate entry to the Fulton launched his first steamboat,
parlor and ground-floor the Clermont, in 1807. Steamboats
servants quarters. made travel much quicker it now
took 72 hours to reach Albany,
Crystal Palace was an which was both the state capital
iron and glass exhibition and the gateway to the West. Trade
hall erected for the 1853 with the West by steamboat and
Worlds Fair. canal boat, and with the rest of the
New York in 1855 world by clipper ship, made the
fortunes of many New Yorkers.
Looking south from 42nd Street, Crystal
Palace and the Croton Distributing Reservoir
stood where the main public library and
Bryant Park are today.

The steamboat Clermont

Crystal Palace
in Flames
On October 5, 1858,
New Yorks Crystal
Palace exhibition
hall burned to the
ground, just as its
predecessor in
London did.
Grand Canal Celebration
Ships in New York harbor lined up to celebrate the 1825 Erie Canal opening. In connecting
the Great Lakes with Albany, the state capital, on the Hudson River, the canal opened a
water link between the Midwest and the Port of New York. New York realized huge profits.

1849 Astor Place riots; 1851 New York Times 1861 Civil War 1863 Draft riots last
ships set sail for California first published begins four days, many die
Gold Rush 1853 New 1857 Financial
York hosts panic and 1865 Abraham Lincoln
Worlds Fair depression lies in state in City Hall

1840 1850 1860

1845 New York Clipper ship card 1858 Vaux and

Knickerbockers, first Olmsted design
Early baseball organized baseball Central Park;
player team, chartered Macys founded

1842 Croton Reservoir built Crowds in Central Park

 28  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

The Age of Extravagance

As New Yorks merchant princes grew ever wealthier, the city
entered a gilded era during which many of its most opulent
buildings went up. Millions were lavished on the arts with
the founding of the Metropolitan Museum, Public Library
and Carnegie Hall. Luxury hotels like the Plaza and the original
Waldorf-Astoria were built, and elegant department stores Growth of the Metropolis
arose to serve the wealthy. Such figures as William Boss 1890 Today
Tweed, political strongman and
king of corruption, and circus
man Phineas T. Barnum
were also larger than life.

Overlooking the Park

The Dakota (1880)
was the first grand
luxury apartment
house on the Upper
West Side (see p220).

Palatial Living
Mansions lined Fifth
Avenue. When it was
built in 1882, W.K.
Vanderbilts Italianate
palace at 660 Fifth
Avenue, was one of
the farthest north.

Fashion City
Lord & Taylor
built a new store The Elevated Railroad
on Broadways
Ladies Mile; 6th By the mid-1870s, elevated railroads
Avenue between or Els ran along 2nd, 3rd, 6th and
14th and 23rd 9th avenues. They made travel
streets was known faster, but left noise, grime and
as Fashion Row. pollution in their wake.

1870 J.D. Rockefeller founds Standard Oil 1877 A.G. Bell

demonstrates the
1867 Brooklyns 1868 First elevated 1871 The first Grand Central Depot telephone in New York
Prospect Park railroad built on opens on 42nd St.; Boss Tweed is
completed Greenwich Street arrested and imprisoned

1865 1870 1875

1869 First apartment house

built on 18th Street; Black Friday 1873 Banks fail: Stock
financial crisis hits Wall Street Exchange panics

The interior of the 1872 Bloomingdales opens

Stock Exchange
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  29

Where to see the Age

of Extravagance
The Gold Room in the Henry Villard
Houses (see p178) is a good place
to experience
the citys past.
Formerly the
Music Room,
it is now an
upscale bar
called Gilt.
The Museum
of the City of
Mark Twains Birthday New York also
Mark Twain, whose 1873 novel The Gilded Age has period
portrayed the decadent lifestyle of New Yorkers, rooms (p201).
celebrated his birthday at Delmonicos.

The Tweed Ring

William Boss Tweed
Elevated train Bowery led Tammany Hall, which
dominated city government.
Streetcar He stole millions in
city funds.

Nasts cartoon of
Boss Tweed

Tammany Tiger
Rural Fifth Avenue The Museum of the
This painting by Ralph City of New York has
Blakelock shows a shanty- Boss Tweeds cane,
town at 86th Street. Today which sports a gold
it is one of New Yorks most Tammany Tiger
expensive addresses. mascot on its handle.

1880 Canned fruits and

meats first appear in 1883 Metropolitan
stores; Metropolitan Opera opens on 1886 Statue 1891 Carnegie
Museum of Art opens; Broadway; Brooklyn of Liberty Hall opens
streets lit by electricity Bridge completed unveiled

1880 1885 1890

1879 St. Patricks 1888 Great Blizzard 1890 First moving

Cathedral dumps 22 in (56 cm) picture shows
completed; first of snow appear in New York
city telephone
exchange opened Grand display of fireworks 1892 Cathedral of St. John the
on Nassau Street over Brooklyn Bridge, 1883 Divine begun; Ellis Island opens
30  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

New York City at the

Turn of the Century
By 1900, New York was a hub of American industry: 70 percent
of the countrys corporations were based there, and the port
handled two-thirds of all imported goods. The rich got richer,
while in the crowded slums disease spread. Even so, immigrants
kept their rich traditions alive, and political and social reform
Growth of the Metropolis
emerged. In 1900, the International Ladies Garment Workers
1914 Today
Union was founded to battle for the rights of the women and
children who toiled in dangerous factories for low wages. The
Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in 1911 also hastened reform.

Crowded
Conditions
Tenements were
unhealthy and
Gateway to America overcrowded. They
Almost five times as crowded as the often lacked windows,
rest of New York, the Lower East Side air shafts or proper
was the most densely populated place sanitary facilities.
in the world.

Where to see Turn-of-the-

Century New York
The Lower East Side Tenement
Museum (see p99) has exhibits
on tenement life.

Tailors
scissors
Inside a Sweatshop
Workers toiled long hours for
low wages in the overcrowded
sweatshops of the garment Streetcars on
district. This view of Moe Levys Broadway
Hip bath
shop was taken in 1912.

1895 Olympia 1898 Five

Theater is first to boroughs merge 1901 Macys opens
open in the to form worlds Broadway
Broadway area second-largest city department store

1895 1900

1896 First bagel served 1900 Mayor Robert Van

in a Clinton Street bakery Wyck breaks ground for
citys first subway with 1903 Lyceum Theater
1897 Waldorf-Astoria silver shovel opens oldest Broadway
Hotel opens: the largest house still in use
hotel in the world
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  31

Flatiron Building
Overlooking Madison
Square where Broadway,
Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street
meet, the 21-story tower
was one of the citys first
skyscrapers (1902). Triangle-
shaped, it was dubbed the
Flatiron Building (see p129).
Supper in the Saddle
Decadent parties were all the rage.
Underlying steel C.K.G. Billingss horseback dinner at
structure Sherrys restaurant in 1903 was the
talk of all New York.

Elaborate limestone
facade

Only 6 ft (185 cm)

wide at apex
of triangle

Plaza Promenade
The section of Fifth Avenue in front
of the Plaza Hotel was considered
the most elegant in the city.

Ventilated hairpiece

High Fashion
In 1900 styles were stiff, with
wire hoops and bustles worn
beneath ornate dresses. Later,
clothes became softer and
more practical.
Long bustle
Wire hoops

1909 Wilbur 1913 Woolworth

1906 Architect Stanford Wright flies Building is worlds tallest;
White shot at Madison first plane 1910 new Grand Central
Square Garden, which he over New Pennsylvania Terminal opens; Harlems
had built in 1890 York Station opens Apollo Theater opens

1905 1910

1905 First crossing of the 1911 Triangle

Staten Island Ferry Shirtwaist Factory fire
kills 146 sweatshop
1907 First metered workers; New York
taxicabs; first Public Library Woolworth
Ziegfeld Follies completed Building
 32  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

New York City Between the Wars

The 1920s were a time of high living for many New Yorkers.
Mayor Jimmy Walker set the pace, whether squiring chorus
girls, drinking in speakeasies, or watching the Yankees. But the
good times ended with the 1929 stock market crash. By 1932,
Walker had resigned, charged with corruption, and one-quarter
of New Yorkers were unemployed. With Mayor Fiorello La
Guardias 1933 election, New York began to recover and thrive. Growth of the Metropolis
1933 Today

Exotic Costumes
Chorus girls were a major
Cotton Club attraction.

The Cotton Club

This Harlem nightclub was host to
the best jazz in town, as first Duke
Ellington and then Cab Calloway
led the band. People flocked from
all over the city to hear them.

Defying Prohibition
Although alcohol was outlawed,
speakeasies semi-secret illegal
drinking dens still sold it.

Home-Run Hitter
In 1927, baseball star Babe Ruth
hit a then-record 60 home runs Gangsters
for the Yankees. Yankee Stadium Dutch Schultz was
(see p243) became known as the kingpin of an
Sawed-off shotgun illegal booze racket.
the house that Ruth built.
concealed in violin case

1918 End of World War I Opening of the

1919 18th Amendment bans Holland Tunnel 1931 Empire
alcohol, launches Prohibition Era State Building
1926 Jimmy Walker becomes
1920 US women get the vote becomes mayor worlds tallest

1920 1925 1930

1924 Novelist 1927 Lindbergh flies 1929 Stock market 1930

James Baldwin is across the Atlantic; crash; Great Chrysler
born in Harlem first talking movie, Depression begins Building
The Jazz Singer, completed
1925 The New Yorker opens; Holland
magazine is launched Tunnel opens
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  33

Big Band Leaders The Great Depression

Banned from many
downtown clubs, black
artists like Cab Calloway
starred at the Cotton Club.
Broadway Melodies
The 1920s were the heyday
of the Broadway musical,
with a record number of
plays opening.
The Roaring Twenties ended
with the stock market crash of
October 29, 1929, which set off the
Depression. New York was hard
hit: squatters shacks sprang up in
Central Park and thousands were
out of work. But art flourished as
artists went to work for the Works
Projects Administration (WPA),
creating outstanding murals and
artworks throughout the city.

Waiting to receive benets in 1931

Lindberghs plane,
Spirit of St. Louis

Breakfast menu

Lindberghs Flight
New Yorkers celebrated
Lindberghs nonstop solo
flight across the Atlantic
in 1927 in a variety of
ways, including a
breakfast in his honor.

Rockefeller Center
Millionaire John D. Mass Event
Rockefeller drives the final Forty-five million
rivet to celebrate the people visited the
opening of Rockefeller 1939 Worlds Fair
Center on May 1, 1939. in New York.

1942 Times Square blacked

1933 Prohibition ends; 1940 Queens- out during World War II;
Fiorello LaGuardia begins Midtown Idlewild International
three terms as mayor Tunnel opens Airport (now JFK) opens

1935 1940 1945

1936 Parks 1944 Black

Department headed 1939 1941 US leader Adam
by Robert Moses; Rockefeller enters Clayton Powell
new parks created Center is World War II elected to
completed Congress
 34  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Postwar New York City

Since World War II, New York has seen both the best of times
and the worst. Although established as the financial capital of the
world, the city itself almost went bankrupt in the 1970s. In 2008,
the collapse of the Wall Street bank Lehman Brothers precipitated
the worst financial crisis since 1929. Since the early 1990s, New
York has seen a dramatic drop in the crime rate and an increase in
the restoration of such landmarks as Grand Central Terminal and
the new Times Square. This constant rebuilding is emblematic
of the citys position as the cultural and financial hub of the
United States.

1967 Hippie musical 1983 Economic boom: property

Hair opens on Off- prices skyrocket; Trump Tower
Broadway, then completed by real estate tycoon
transfers to the Donald Trump, who symbolizes
Biltmore Theater the yuppie wealth of the 1980s

1971 Pop artist Andy Warhol has

a retrospective show of his work
1966 at the Whitney Museum
1945 End of Newspaper and
World War II 1953 Merce Cunningham transit strikes 1975 Federal loan
founds dance company saves New York
1946 UN from bankruptcy
headquarters 1959
established in 1954 Ellis Guggenheim 1981 New York
New York Island closes Museum opens regains solvency

1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980

MAYORS: Impelliteri Wagner Lindsay Beame Koch
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980

1963 1973 World Trade

1947 Jackie Robinson, first black Pennsylvania Center completed
baseball player in the major leagues, Station razed
signs with Brooklyn Dodgers

1964 New York Worlds

Fair; race riots in Harlem and
Bedford-Stuyvesant; Verrazano
Narrows Bridge links Brooklyn
and Staten Island; Beatles
play at Shea Stadium

Souvenir scarf

1968 20,000 anti-establishment

hippies gather in Central Park;
student sit-ins at Columbia University
 THE HISTORY OF NEW YORK CITY  35

Andy Warhol with actresses Candy Darling

and Ultra Violet

1988 Twenty-five percent

of New Yorkers live below
the poverty line 2001 Terrorist attack on the World Trade
Center; Mayor Giuliani is a great support
to the people of New York. President
George W. Bush declares war on terrorism
1990 David Dinkins, New Yorks first
black mayor, takes office; Ellis Island
reopens as an immigration museum 2003 A major power outage
on August 14 leaves 50 million
people in the North East 2012 Hurricane Sandy hits
1987
(including New York City), mid- New York City, causing wide-
Stock 1994 Rudolph Giuliani West, and ports of Canada,
market spread flooding, damage, and
takes office as mayor blacked out for up to 24 hours
crash power outage across the city

1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

Dinkins Giuliani Bloomberg De Blasio
1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

2009 US Airways flight 2014

2000
Population 1549 crash-lands in the The National September 11
1986 Shock of corruption
reaches just Hudson River. All 155 Museum opens
scandals rock Mayor Kochs
administration; Centennial over 8 million passengers survive
2013
of Statue of Liberty
One World Trade Center (formerly
Freedom Tower) opens

2002 The lights go on in

a regenerated 42nd Street,
which crosses Broadway at
Times Square. The area remains
one of the citys liveliest and
most congested

1995 The neglected

Chelsea Piers are renovated
and open as a mammoth
sports and entertainment
complex (see p140)
 INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY  37

NEW YORK CITY AT A GLANCE

There are almost 300 places of interest
described in the Area by Area section of this
book. They range from the bustling New York
Stock Exchange (see pp723) to Central
Parks peaceful Strawberry Fields (see p210),
and from historic synagogues to dazzling
skyscrapers. The following 14 pages provide
a time-saving guide to New Yorks most
noteworthy sights. Museums and architecture
each have a section, and there are guides to
the people and cultures that have given the
city its unique character. Each sight is cross-
referenced to its own full entry. Below are the
top ten tourist attractions to start you off.

New Yorks Top Ten

Tourist Attractions

Ellis Island Empire State Building Fifth Avenue

See pp8081 See pp1389 See p172

Museum of Modern Art

See pp1747

Rockefeller Center Central Park

See p146 See pp20611

Statue of Liberty
See pp767

Metropolitan Museum of Art Brooklyn Bridge Chinatown

See pp1929 See pp8891 See pp989

Iconic Chrysler Building, illuminated at night

38  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

New Yorks Best: Museums

New Yorks museums range from the vast scope of
the Metropolitan Museum to the personal treasures
of financier J. Pierpont Morgans own collection. Several
museums celebrate New Yorks heritage, giving visitors
an insight into the people and events that made the city
what it is today. This map features some highlights, with
a detailed overview on pages 4041.

Museum of Modern Art

Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Picassos She-Goat (1950) is
Museum among the impressive collection
This military and maritime history on display in the renovated
museum also traces the progress Museum of Modern Art.
of flight exploration. It is
housed in a large aircraft
carrier situated
at Pier 86.
r
ve
Ri
s on
ud
H

Morgan Library
& Museum
One of the worlds
finest collections of
manuscripts, prints and
books includes this rare
French Bible from 1230. Theater
District

Merchants
House Museum
This perfectly preserved Chelsea
1832 house belonged Lower
and the Midtown
to a wealthy trader. Garment
District

Gramercy
and the
Flatiron
Greenwich
District
Village

Ellis Island
This museum vividly
re-creates the experiences East
SoHo and
of many millions of Village
TriBeCa
immigrant families.
er
Riv

Lower East Side,

st

Chinatown, and
Ea

Seaport Little Italy

and the
Civic
Lower Center
Manhattan

0 kilometers 2

0 miles 1
 N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E  39

American Museum
of Natural History
Dinosaurs, meteorites,
and much more
have fascinated
generations of
visitors here.

Morningside
Heights and
Harlem

Museum of the City of New York

Costumes, works of art, and household
objects (such as this 1725 silver dish)
create an intricate and detailed
picture of New Yorks past.
Upper West
Side
Cooper-Hewitt Museum
A wealth of decorative arts
is displayed in industrialist
Central Andrew Carnegies former
Park Upper East Side mansion.

Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

Painting and sculpture by almost all
Upper
major avant-garde artists of the late
East Side
19th and 20th centuries fill Frank Lloyd
Wrights stunningly renovated building.

Metropolitan
Upper Museum of Art
Midtown Of the millions of
works in its collection,
this 12th-dynasty
Egyptian faence
hippo is the museums
own mascot.

Whitney Museum
of American Art
This exceptional
collection includes
many views of New
York. One of the best is
Brooklyn Bridge: Variation
on an Old Theme (1939),
by Joseph Stella.

Frick Collection
The collection of 19th-century railroad
magnate Henry Clay Frick is displayed in his
former home. Masterpieces include St. Francis
in the Desert (about 1480) by Giovanni Bellini.
40  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Exploring New Yorks Museums

You could devote an entire month to New Yorks Prints and Photography
museums and still not do them justice. There are more than The International Center
60 museums in Manhattan alone, and half as many again in of Photography is the only
museum in New York that
the other boroughs. The wealth of art and the huge variety of
is totally devoted to this
offerings from Old Masters to old fire engines, dinosaurs medium. Collections can also
to dolls, Tibetan tapestries to African masks is equal to that be seen at the Metropolitan
of any city in the world. Some museums close on Monday, Museum of Art and MoMA,
as well as on another day. Many stay open late one or two and there are many examples
evenings a week, and some have one evening when entry of early photography at
the Museum of the City of
is free. Most museums charge for admission; for some, this New York and Ellis Island.
is a suggested donation rather than a mandatory fee. Prints and drawings by
such great book illustrators
as Kate Greenaway and Sir
Painting and Sculpture 20th-century art, donated John Tenniel are featured at the
New York is best known by academy members. Morgan Library & Museum.
for its art museums. The In Harlem, the Studio Museum The Cooper-Hewitt National
Metropolitan Museum of Art shows the work of black artists. Design Museum has examples
houses an extensive collection of the use of prints in the
of American art, as well as decorative arts.
world-famous masterpieces. Crafts and Design
The Cloisters, a branch of the If you are interested Furniture
Met in Upper Manhattan, in textiles, porcelain and Costumes
is a treasury of medieval art and glass, The annual exhibition
and architecture. The Frick embroideries of the Costume Institute
Collection has a superb display and laces, wallpaper, at the Metropolitan
of Old Masters. In contrast, and prints, visit the Museum of Art is
the Museum of Modern Art Cooper-Hewitt always worth a visit.
(MoMA) houses Impressionist Museum, the Also impressive is
and modern paintings. decorative arts the American Wing,
The Whitney Museum of outpost of with its 24 rooms of
American Art and the Washingtons original furnishings
Solomon R. Guggenheim Smithsonian tracing life from 1640
Museum also specialize in Institution. The to the 20th century.
modern art, the Whitneys design collections Period rooms depicting
biennial show being the at MoMA trace the Corn husk doll, American New York in various
foremost display of work by history of design Museum of Natural History settings, beginning
living artists. Todays cutting- from clocks to with the 17th-century
edge art is at the New Museum couches. The Museum of Arts Dutch, are on display
of Contemporary Art, while and Design offers the finest at the Museum of the City
the work of craft artists can work of todays skilled artisans of New York.
be seen at the American Folk in mediums from furniture to There are also some house
Art Museum.The National pottery, and the American museums that give a realistic
Academy Museum displays Folk Art Museum presents picture of life and furnishings
a collection of 19th- and folk forms, from quilts to in old New York. The Merchants
canes. Silver House Museum, a preserved
collections residence from 1832, was
are notable at occupied by the same family
the Museum for 98 years. Gracie Mansion
of the City of was the residence of mayor
New York. Archibald Gracie, who bought
The fine it in 1798 from a shipping
displays of merchant, and it is open
native art at periodically for public tours.
the National The Theodore Roosevelt
Museum of Birthplace is the brownstone
the American where the 26th president of
Indian the United States grew up, and
include the Mount Vernon Hotel
The Peaceable Kingdom (c.184045) by Edward Hicks, at the jewelry, rugs Museum was an early
Brooklyn Museum and pottery. 19th-century resort.

Palm pistol at the New
York City Police Museum
History
American history unfolds
at Federal Hall, the United
States first capitol, where
George Washington took
his oath as Americas first
president on the balcony
in April 1789.
Visit the Fraunces Tavern
Museum for a glimpse of
colonial New York. Ellis
Island and Lower East Side
Tenement Museum re-create
the hardships faced by
immigrants. The Museum
of Jewish Heritage in Battery
City is a living memorial to the
Holocaust. The New York City
Fire Museum and the New
York City Police Museum
chronicle heroism and tragedy,
while the South Street Seaport
Museum recreates early
maritime history.
Technology and
Natural History
Forest-dwelling bonga, American Museum
of Natural History
Science museums hold
exhibitions from nature to
space-age technology. The
American Museum of Natural
History has vast collections
covering flora, fauna, and
cultures from around the
world. Its Rose Center/Hayden
Planetarium offers a unique
view of space. The Intrepid
Sea-Air-Space Museum is a
repository of technology that
N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E
chronicles military progress.
It is based on the decks of an
aircraft carrier. If you missed
a classic Lucille Ball sitcom or
footage of the first man on the
moon, the place to visit is the
Paley Center for Media, which
holds these and many other
classics of TV and radio.
Art from Other Cultures
Artwork of other
nations is
the focus of several
special collections.
Oriental art is
the specialty
of the Asia
Society and the
Japan Society.
The Jewish
Museum features
major collections
of Judaica and
has changing
exhibitions of
various aspects of
Jewish life. The
Museo del Barrio
is dedicated to the
arts of Puerto Rico,
including many
Pre-Columbian
Taino artifacts.
Egyptian For an impressive
mummy, review of African-
Brooklyn American art and
Museum history, visit the
Schomburg Center
for Research in Black Culture.
Finally, the Metropolitan
Museum of Art excels in its
multicultural displays, ranging
from the art of ancient Egypt
to that of contemporary Africa.
Libraries
New Yorks notable libraries,
such as the Morgan Library
& Museum, offer superb art
collections as well as a chance
to view pages from ancient
manuscripts and rare books.
The New York Public Librarys
collection includes historic
documents and manuscripts
of many famous works.
Beyond Manhattan
Other museums worth a visit
include the Brooklyn Museum
of Art, with a huge collection
of artifacts from across the
world and over one million
 41
paintings. The Museum of the
Moving Image in Queens has
a unique collection of motion-
picture history. The Jacques
Marchais Museum of Tibetan
Art is a rare find on Staten Island,
as is Historic Richmond Town,
a well-restored village dating
from the 1600s.
DIRECTORY
Finding the Museums
American Folk Art Museum p173
American Museum of
Natural History pp21819
Asia Society p189
Brooklyn Museum of Art pp2525
Cloisters Museum pp23841
Cooper-Hewitt National Design
Museum p188
Ellis Island pp8081
Federal Hall p70
Fraunces Tavern Museum p78
Frick Collection pp2045
Gracie Mansion p200
Historic Richmond Town p256
International Center of
Photography p149
Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum p151
Jacques Marchais Museum
of Tibetan Art p256
Japan Society pp16061
Jewish Museum p188
Lower East Side Tenement
Museum p99
Merchants House Museum p122
Metropolitan Museum of Art
pp1929
Morgan Library & Museum pp1667
Mount Vernon Hotel Museum p200
Museo del Barrio p233
Museum of Arts and Design p151
Museum of the City of
New York p201
Museum of Jewish Heritage p79
Museum of Modern Art pp1747
Museum of the Moving
Image pp2489
National Academy Museum p188
National Museum of the
American Indian p75
New Museum of
Contemporary Art p102
New York City Fire Museum p109
New York City Police Museum p78
New York Public Library p148
Paley Center for Media p173
Schomburg Center for Research
in Black Culture p231
Solomon R. Guggenheim
Museum pp19091
South Street Seaport Museum p86
Studio Museum p232
Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace p129
Whitney Museum pp202203
42  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

New Yorks Best: Architecture

Even when following world trends, New York has given its
own twist to the turns of architectural fashion, the style of
its buildings influenced by both geography and economy.
An island city, with space at a premium, must look upward
to grow. This trend was reflected early on with tall, narrow
town houses and later with the citys apartment buildings
and skyscrapers. Building materials such as cast-iron and Apartment Buildings
The Majestic is one of five
brownstone were chosen for their local availability and Art Deco twin-towered
useful appeal. The result is apartment buildings on
a city that has developed Central Park West.
by finding flamboyant Theater
answers to practical needs. District
A more detailed overview
of New Yorks architecture
is on pages 445.

r
ive
n R Chelsea
dso

and the
Hu

Garment
District

Gramercy
Greenwich and the
Cast-Iron Architecture Village Flatiron
Mass-produced cast iron was often District
used for building facades. SoHo has
many of the best examples, such as
this building at 2830 Greene Street.
East
Village
SoHo and
TriBeCa
Lower East Side,
Chinatown, and
Little Italy

Lower
Manhattan

Post-Modernism
The quirky, yet elegant, shapes of
buildings like the World Financial
Center, built in 1985 (see p71), mark
a bold departure from the sleek
steel-and-glass boxes of the 1950s
and 1960s.

Brownstones
Built from local sandstone,
brownstones were favored by the
19th-century middle classes. India
House, built in a Florentine palazzo
style on Wall Street, is typical of many
brownstone commercial buildings.
 N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E  43
Morningside
Heights and
Harlem 19th-Century Mansions
The Jewish Museum (see
p188), formerly the home
Upper of Felix M. Warburg, is a fine
West example of the French
Side Renaissance style that
typified these mansions.

Central
Park

Beaux Arts
Opulent style,
created for the
richest of owners,
Upper is exemplified by
East Side the Beaux Arts
grandeur of the
Frick mansion.

Upper
Midtown Modernism
The Seagram Buildings sleek
Lower bronze-and-glass walls, scant
Midtown decoration and monumental
scale typify postwar architecture
(see p179).
The Skyscraper
The glory of New York
architecture, these buildings
expressed a perfect blend
of practical engineering skill
and fabulous decoration,
er
Riv

such as this gargoyle on

st

the Chrysler Building.

Ea

0 kilometers 2

0 miles 1

Tenements
Constructed as an
economic form of
housing, for many
these buildings were
a stark introduction
to new lives. Mainly
built on the Lower
East Side, the apartments
were hopelessly over-
crowded. In addition,
Federal Architecture the buildings design,
Federal style was popular in civic with inadequate air
architecture of the 19th century; shafts, resulted in
City Hall combines it with French apartments with little
Renaissance influences. or no ventilation.
44  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Exploring New Yorks Architecture

During its first 200 years, New York, like all of America, Cast-Iron Architecture
looked to Europe for architectural inspiration. None of An American architectural
the buildings from the Dutch colonial period survive in innovation of the 19th century,
cast iron was cheaper than
Manhattan today; most were lost in the great fire of 1776
stone or brick and allowed
or torn down to make way for new developments in the ornate features to be
early 1800s. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, the prefabricated in foundries
citys major architectural trends followed those of Europe. from molds and used as
With the advent of cast-iron architecture in the 1850s, the building facades. Today, New
Art Deco period and the ever-higher rise of the skyscraper, York has the worlds largest
concentration of full and partial
New Yorks architecture came into its own. cast-iron facades. The best, built
in the 1870s, are in the SoHo
Federal Architecture best examples of brownstone Cast-Iron Historic District.
This American adaptation of can be found in Chelsea.
the Neo-Classical Adam style Because street space was
flowered in the early decades limited, these buildings were
of the new nation, featuring very narrow in width, but also
square buildings two or three very deep. A typical brownstone
stories tall, with low hipped has a flight of steps, called a
roofs, balustrades, and decor- stoop, leading up to the living
ative elements all carefully floors. Separate stairs lead
balanced. City Hall (1811, John down to the basement,
McComb, Jr. and Joseph which was originally the
Franois Mangin) is a blend servants quarters.
of Federal and French Renais-
sance influences. The restored Tenements
warehouses of Schermerhorn Tenements were built to The original cast-iron facade of 7276
Row (c.1812) in the Seaport house the huge influx of Greene Street, SoHo
district are also in Federal style. immigrants who arrived from
the 1840s up to World War I. Beaux Arts
Brownstones The six-story blocks, 100 ft This French school of archi-
Plentiful and cheap, the (30 m) long and 25 ft (8 m) tecture dominated the design
brown sandstone found in wide, offered very little light of public buildings and wealthy
the nearby Connecticut River and air except from tiny residential properties during
Valley and along the banks of sidewall air shafts and New Yorks gilded age. This era
the Hackensack River in New windows at each end, (from 1880 to about 1920)
Jersey was the most common leaving the middle rooms in produced many of the citys
building material in the 1800s. darkness. The tiny apartments most prominent architects,
It is found all over the citys were called railroad flats after including Richard Morris
residential neighborhoods, their similarity to railroad cars. Hunt (Carnegie Hall, 1891;
used for small homes or small Later designs had air shafts Metropolitan Museum of
apartments some of the between buildings, but these Art, 1895), who in 1845 was
helped the spread of fire. The the first American architect
Lower East Side Tenement to study in Paris; Cass Gilbert
Museum has scale models of (US Custom House, 1907; New
the old tenements. York Life Insurance Company

A typical brownstone with stoop leading up
to the main entrance
Architectural Disguises
Some of the most fanciful forms on the New
York skyline were devised by clever architects
to disguise the citys essential but utilitarian
and rather unattractive rooftop water tanks.
Look skyward to discover the ornate cupolas,
spires, and domes that transform the most
mundane of features into veritable castles
in the air. Examples that are easy to spot
are atop two neighboring Fifth Avenue
hotels: the Sherry Netherland at 60th Street Standard
and the Pierre at 61st Street. water tower

The Dakota Apartments, built in 1884, on the Upper West
Side across from Central Park
Building, 1928; United States
Courthouse, 1936); the
teams of Warren & Wetmore
(Grand Central Terminal, 1913;
Helmsley Building, 1929);
Carrre & Hastings (New York
Public Library, 1911; Frick
Mansion, 1914); and McKim,
Mead & White, the citys most
famous firm of architects
(Villard Houses, 1884; General
Post Office, 1913; Municipal
Building, 1914).
Apartment Buildings
As the citys population grew
and space became ever more
precious, family homes in
Manhattan became much too
expensive for most New Yorkers,
and even the wealthy joined the
trend toward communal living.
In 1884 Henry Hardenberghs
Dakota (see p220), one of the first
luxury apartment buildings,
started a spate of turn-of-the-
century construction on the
Upper West Side. Many of the
buildings resembled castles
245 Fifth Avenue
(Apartment Building)
N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E
and chteaux, and
were built around
courtyards not
visible from the
street. Favorite
landmarks are the
five Twin Towers
on Central Park
West, the San
Remo, Eldorado,
Century, the
Beresford, and
the Majestic. Built
during the peak of
Art Deco (1929 to
1931), they create
the distinctive
skyline seen from
the park.
Skyscrapers
In 1902, Daniel Burnham, a
Chicago architect, built the
Flatiron Building, so tall at
300 ft (91 m) that skeptics
said it would collapse. By
1913, the Woolworth Building
had risen to 792 ft (241 m).
New zoning laws demanded
that skyscrapers be built in
such a way as to allow light
to reach street level. This suited
the Art Deco style. The Chrysler
Building (1930) was the worlds
tallest until the Empire State
Building (1931) was completed.
Both are Art Deco classics, but
it was Raymond Hoods Group
Art Deco arched pattern on the
spire of the Chrysler Building
60 Gramercy Park North
(Brownstone) (Beaux Arts)
 45
Health Insurance Building
that represented New York in
1932 in the International Style
architectural survey.
The World Trade Center was
New Yorks tallest building until
September 2001 (see p56). It
represented the Modernist
style, now superseded by the
Post-Modern style, such as the
Citigroup Center (1977). In
2013, One World Trade Center
became the Western worlds
tallest building, reaching 1,776 ft
(541 m), a reference to the year
of American Independence.
DIRECTORY
Where to find
the Buildings
Carnegie Hall p150
Chelsea pp13241
Chrysler Building p157
Citigroup Center p179
City Hall p92
Empire State Building pp1389
Flatiron Building p129
Frick Mansion pp204205
General Post Office p137
Grand Central Terminal pp1589
Group Health Insurance
Building p149
Helmsley Building p160
Lower East Side Tenement
Museum p99
Metropolitan Museum
of Art pp1929
Municipal Building p87
New York Life Insurance
Company Building p128
New York Public Library p148
Schermerhorn Row p86
SoHo Cast-Iron Historic District p106
Twin Towers of Central Park
West p216
United States Courthouse p87
US Custom House p75
Villard Houses p178
Woolworth Building p93
The Pierre Sherry Netherland
Hotel (Beaux Arts)
46  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Multicultural New York City

Wherever you go in New York, even in pockets of the hectic
high-rise downtown, you will find evidence of the richly ethnic
flavor of the city. A bus ride can take you from Madras to
Moscow, Hong Kong to Haiti. Immigrants are still coming to
New York, though numbers are fewer than in the peak years
from 1880 to 1910, when 17 million people arrived. In the
1980s, a million newcomers, largely from Caribbean
countries and Asia, arrived and found their own special
corner of the city. Throughout the year you will encounter Hells Kitchen
For a while called Clinton
crowds celebrating one of many festivals. To find out more
to reflect a new neighborhood
about national celebrations and parades, see pages 525. mix, this was the first home
of early Irish immigrants.
Little Korea
Not far from Herald
Square is a small
Korean enclave with a
variety of restaurants.

Little Ukraine Theater

Services are held at T. District
Shevchenko Place as part of
the May 17 festivities to mark the
Ukrainians conversion to Christianity.
Chelsea
and the
Garment
District

Gramercy
and the
Greenwich Flatiron
Village District

East
Village
Little Italy
For 11 days in September, the Italian SoHo and
community gathers around the Mulberry TriBeCa
Lower East Side,
Street area, and the streets are taken Chinatown, and
over by the celebrations of the Festa Little Italy
di San Gennaro.
Seaport and
the Civic
Lower
Center
Manhattan

0 kilometers 2

0 miles 1 The Lower

East Side
The synagogues
Chinatown around Rivington
Every year, in January or and Eldridge streets
February, Mott Street is reflect the religious
packed as residents celebrate traditions of this
the Chinese New Year. old Jewish area.
 N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E  47

Morningside
r
ve Heights and
Ri

Harlem
n
so
ud
H

Upper West
Side

Central
Park

Harlem
Upper The Sunday-morning gospel
East Side service at the Abyssinian Baptist
Church is one of Harlems finest.

El Barrio
East Harlem, also
known as El Barrio or
Spanish Harlem, is
Upper
home to one of the
Midtown
r
citys largest Hispanic
ve communities.
Ri
st
Lower Ea
Midtown
Upper East Side
The magnificent St. Nicholas
Russian Orthodox
Cathedral on East 97th
Street is a reminder of
the dispersed White
Russian community.
Mass is held in
Russian each
Sunday.

Little India
The restaurants of East 6th Street offer
Eastern atmosphere at affordable prices.
Yorkville
Only a few cafs and bierkellers remain
to keep the flavor of this former uptown
German district. The Steuben Day Parade
is still held here each September.
48  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Exploring New Yorks Many Cultures 1940s, they were the citys
fastest-growing and most
Even native New Yorkers have ancestral roots in other upwardly mobile ethnic group,
countries. Throughout the 17th century, the Dutch and extending the old boundaries
English settled here, establishing trade colonies in the of Chinatown and establishing
new neighborhoods in parts
New World. Soon America became a symbol of hope for
of Brooklyn and Queens. Once
the downtrodden elsewhere in Europe. Many flocked across a closed community, Chinatown
the ocean, some penniless and with little knowledge of now bustles with tourists
the language. The potato famine of the 1840s led to the exploring the streets and
first wave of Irish immigrants, followed by German and markets, and sampling the
other European workers displaced by political unrest and creative cuisine.
the Industrial Revolution. Immigrants continue to enrich
New York in countless ways, and today an estimated 100
languages are spoken.

Turkish immigrants arriving at former
Idlewild Airport in 1963
The Jews
There has been a Jewish
community in New York since
1654. The citys first synagogue,
Shearith Israel, was established
by refugees from a Dutch
colony in Brazil and is still
active today. These first settlers,
Sephardic Jews of Spanish
descent, included such
prominent families as the
Baruchs. They were followed
by the German Jews, who
set up successful retailing
enterprises, like the Straus
brothers at Macys. Russian
persecution led to the mass
immigration that began in
the late 1800s. By the start
of World War I, 600,000 Jews
were living on the Lower
East Side. Today, this area is
more Hispanic and Asian than
Jewish, but it holds reminders
of its role as a place of refuge
and new beginnings.
The Germans
The Germans began to
settle in New York in the
18th century. From John
Peter Zenger onward (see
p22), the citys German
community has championed
the freedom to express ideas
and opinions. It has also
produced giants of industry,
such as John Jacob Astor, the
citys first millionaire.
The Italians
Italians first came to New York
in the 1830s and 1840s. Many
came from northern Italy to
escape the failing revolution at
home. In the 1870s, poverty in
southern Italy drove many more
Italians across the ocean. In
time, Italians became a potent
political force in the city,
exemplified by Fiorello La
Guardia, one of New Yorks
finest mayors.
The Chinese
The Chinese were late arrivals to
New York. In 1880, the
population of the Mott Street
district was a mere 700. By the
Eastern States Buddhist Temple, in central
Chinatown (see pp989)
Hispanic religious carving at the Museo del
Barrio (see p233)
The Hispanic Americans
Puerto Ricans were in New York
as early as 1838, but it was not
until after World War II that they
arrived in large numbers in
search of work. Most live in
El Barrio, formerly known as
Spanish Harlem. Professionals
who fled Fidel Castros Cuba
have moved out of the city
itself but are still influential
in Hispanic commerce and
culture. Parts of Washington
Heights have large Dominican
and Colombian communities.
The Irish
The Irish, who first arrived
in New York in the 1840s,
had to overcome harsh odds.
Starving and with barely a
penny to their names, they
labored hard to escape the
slums of Five Points and Hells
Kitchen, helping to build the
modern city in the
process. Many joined
the police and fire-
fighting forces, rising
to high rank through
dedication to duty.
Others set up successful
businesses, such as the
Irish bars that act as a
focus for the now-
scattered New York
Irish community.

The African
Americans
Perhaps the best-known black
inner-city community in the
Western world, Harlem is noted
for the Harlem Renaissance of
writing (see pp323) as much as
it is for great entertainment,
gospel music, and soul food.
The move of black African
Americans from the South
to the North began with
emancipation in the 1860s
and increased markedly in
the 1920s, when Harlems black
population rose from 83,000
to 204,000. Today Harlem
is undergoing revitalization
in many areas. The African-
American population has also
dispersed throughout the city.
The Melting Pot
Other New York cultures are not East 97th Street (see p201).
distinctly defined but are still
easily found. Ukrainians gather
in the East Village, around St.
Georges Ukrainian Catholic
Church on East 7th Street.
Little India can be spotted by
the restaurants along East 6th
Street. Koreans own many
of the small grocery stores in
Manhattan, but most tend
to live in the Flushing
area of Queens. The
religious diversity
of New York can be
seen in the Islamic
Center on Riverside
Drive; the Islamic
Cultural Center on
NEWCOMERS WHO MADE THEIR MARK see also pp5051.
The dates mark the year
these immigrants entered
the US via New York.
1893 Irving Berlin
(Russia), musician
1894 Al Jolson
(Lithuania), singer
1890 1895 1900
1896
Samuel
Goldwyn
(Poland),
movie
mogul
1902 Joe Hill (Sweden),
labor activist
N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E  49
immigrant groups. West Indians
tend to cluster along Eastern
Parkway between Grand Army
Plaza and Utica Avenue, the
route of the lavish, exotically
costumed West Indian Day
Parade in September. Recently
arrived Russian Jewish
immigrants have turned
Brighton Beach into Little
Odessa by the Sea, and the
Scandinavians and Lebanese
have settled in Bay Ridge and
the Finns in Sunset Park.
Borough Park and Williamsburg
are home to Orthodox Jews,
and Midwood has an Israeli-
Middle East accent. Italians live
A woman celebrating at the Greek in the Bensonhurst area.
Independence Day parade Greenpoint is little Poland, and
Atlantic Avenue is home to
96th Street Manhattans first the largest Arab community
major mosque; and the Russian in America.
Orthodox Cathedral on The Irish were among the
earliest groups to cross the
Harlem River into the Bronx.
Japanese executives favor the
The Outer Boroughs more exclusive Riverdale area.
Brooklyn is by far the most One of the most distinctive
international borough of New ethnic areas is Astoria, Queens,
York. Caribbean newcomers which has the largest Greek
from Jamaica and Haiti are population outside the mother-
one of the fastest-growing land. Jackson Heights is home
to a large Latin American
quarter, including hundreds
of thousands of
Colombians. Indians
also favor this area and
nearby Flushing, a lively
neighborhood also
populated by thousands of
expats from China, Korea,
The New York police, a haven for Irish Americans and other Asian countries.
1932 George
1906 Lucky Luciano (Italy), Balanchine (Russia),
gangster (deported 1946) ballet choreographer
1921 Bela Lugosi
1908 Bob Hope
(England), comedian (Hungary), star of 1933 Albert Einstein
Dracula (Germany), scientist
1909 Lee Strasberg
(Austria), theater director
1905 1910 1915 1920 1925 1930 1935 1940
1904 Hyman 1913 Rudolph
Rickover (Russia), Valentino (Italy), 1923 Isaac Asimov (Russia),
developer of film star scientist and writer
nuclear
submarine 1912 Claudette Colbert 1938 von Trapp family
(France), film star (Austria), singers
1903 Frank Capra
(Italy), film director
50  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Remarkable New Yorkers

New York has nourished some of the best creative talents
since the beginning of the 20th century. Pop Art began here,
and Manhattan is still the world center for modern art. The
alternative writers of the 1950s and 1960s known as the Beat
Generation took inspiration from the citys jazz clubs. And, as
it is the financial capital, many leading world financiers have
made New York their home.

formed the Knickerbocker

Novelist James Baldwin
Writers
Much great American
literature was created in New
York. Charlotte Temple, A Tale
of Truth, first published in 1791
by Susanna Rowson (c.1762
1824), was a tale of seduction
in the city and a bestseller
for 50 years.
Americas first professional
author was Charles Brockden
Brown (17711810), who came
to New York in 1791. The novels
of Edgar Allan Poe (180949),
the pioneer of the modern
detective story, expanded the
thriller genre. Henry James
(18431916) published The
Bostonians (1886) and became
the master of the psychological
novel, and his friend Edith
Wharton (18611937) became
known for her satirical novels
about American society.
American literature finally
won international recognition
with Washington Irvings
(17831859) satire, A History of
New York (1809). It earned him
$2,000. Irving coined the names
Gotham for New York and
Knickerbockers for New Yorkers.
He and James Fenimore Cooper
(17891851), whose books gave
birth to the Western novel,
group of US writers. Greenwich
Village has always attracted
writers, including Herman
Melville (181991) whose
masterpiece, Moby Dick
(1851), was very
poorly received
at first.
Jack Kerouac
(192269),
Allen Ginsberg,
and William
Burroughs all
went to Columbia
University and drank at the San
Remo Caf in Greenwich Village.
Dylan Thomas (191453) lived
at the Chelsea Hotel. Novelist
Nathanael West (190240)
worked in the Gramercy Park
Hotel, and Dashiell Hammett
(18941961) wrote The Maltese
Falcon while living there. James
Baldwin (192487), born in
Harlem, wrote Another Country
(1963) on his return to New
York from Europe.
Artists
The New York School of Abstract
Expressionists founded the
first influential American art
movement. It was launched
by Hans Hofmann (1880
1966) with Franz Kline and
Willem de Kooning,
whose first job in
America was as a
housepainter.
Adolph Gottlieb,
Mark Rothko
(190370), and
Jackson Pollock
(191256) went on
to popularize this
style. Pollock, Kline,
and de Kooning all
had their studios on
the Lower East Side.
Pop Art began
in New York in Vaudeville actress Mae West
Pop artist Andy Warhol
the 1960s with Roy Lichtenstein
and Andy Warhol (192687),
who made some of his cult
films at 33 Union Square. Keith
Haring (195890) was a very
prolific graffiti artist who
gained fame for his Pop Art
murals and sculptures.
Robert Mapplethorpe
(194689) acquired notoriety
for his homoerotic photos of
men. Jeff Koons (1955) was
part of the Neo-Pop or Post-
Pop movement of the 1980s.
The illusionistic murals by
Richard Haas enliven many
walls throughout the city.
Actors
In 1849 the British actor Charles
Macready started a riot by
saying Americans were vulgar.
A mob stormed the Astor Place
Opera House, where Macready
was playing Macbeth, police
opened fire, and 22 rioters
were killed. In 1927
Mae West (1893
1980) spent
10 days in a
workhouse on
Roosevelt Island
and was fined
$500 for giving a
lewd performance
in her Broadway
show Sex. Marc
Blitzsteins radical
pro-labor opera The
Cradle Will Rock,
produced by
Orson Welles
(191585) and
John Houseman
(190288), was
immediately
banned and
the show had

to move to another theater.
The actors managed to get
around the ban by buying
tickets and singing their roles
from the audience.
The musical has been New
Yorks special contribution to
the theater. Florenz Ziegfelds
(18691932) Follies ran from
1907 to 1931. The opening of
Oklahoma! on Broadway in 1943
began the age of musicals
by the famous duo Richard
Rodgers (190279) and Oscar
Hammerstein, Jr. (18951960).
Off Broadway, the Province-
town Players at 33 MacDougal
Street were the first to produce
Eugene ONeills (18881953)
Beyond the Horizon (1920).
His successor as the major
innovative force in US theater
was Edward Albee, author
of Whos Afraid of Virginia
Woolf? (1962).
Musicians
and Dancers
Leonard Bernstein (191890)
followed a long line of great
conductors at the New York
Philharmonic, including Bruno
Walter (18761962), Arturo
Toscanini (18671957), and
Leopold Stokowski (18821977).
Maria Callas (192377) was
born in New York but moved
to Europe.
Carnegie Hall (see p150) has
featured Enrico Caruso (1873
1921), Bob Dylan, and the Beatles.
A record concert attendance
was set in 1991 when Paul
Simon drew a million people for
his free concert in Central Park.
The legendary swinging
jazz clubs of the 1930s and
1940s are now gone from 52nd
Street. Plaques on Jazz Walk
outside the CBS building
Musical producer Florenz Ziegfeld
N E W YO R K C I T Y AT A G L A N C E
honor such famous performers
as Charlie Parker (192055) and
Josephine Baker (190675).
Between 1940 and 1965, New
York became a world dance
capital, with the establishment
of George Balanchines (190483)
New York City Ballet and the
American Ballet Theater. In 1958,
choreographer Alvin Ailey (1931
89) set up the American Dance
Theater, and Bob Fosse (192787)
changed the course of musicals.
Tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt
Industrialists and
Entrepreneurs
The rags-to-riches story is
an American dream. Andrew
Carnegie (18351919), the
steel baron with a heart of
gold, started with nothing
and died having given away
$350 million. His beneficiaries
included public libraries and
universities throughout
America. Many other
foundations are the legacies
of wealthy philanthropists.
Some, like Cornelius Vanderbilt
(17941877), tried to shake
off their rough beginnings by
patronizing the arts. In business,
New Yorks robber barons did
what they liked with apparent
 51
Josephine Baker
impunity. Financiers Jay Gould
(183692) and James Fisk (1834
72) beat Vanderbilt in the war for
the Erie Railroad by manipulating
stock. In September 1869 they
caused Wall Streets first Black
Friday when they tried to corner
the gold market, but fled when
their fraud was discovered.
Gould died a happy billionaire,
while Fisk was killed in a fight
over a woman.
Modern entrepreneurs
include Donald Trump (see p34),
owner of Trump Tower, and the
late Leona and Harry Helmsley.
After Leona passed away in
August 2007, the bulk of the
Helmsleys $4-billion estate
was left to a charitable trust.
Architects
Cass Gilbert (18581934),
who built such Neo-Gothic
skyscrapers as the Woolworth
Building of 1913 (see p93), was
one of the men who literally
shaped the city. His caricature
can be seen in the lobby,
clutching a model of his
masterpiece. Stanford White
(18531906) was as well-known
for his scandalous private life
as for his fine Beaux Arts
buildings, such as the Players
Club (p130). For most of his
life, Frank Lloyd Wright (1867
1959) spurned city architecture.
When he was persuaded to
leave his mark on the city,
it was in the form of the
Guggenheim Museum (pp190
91). German-born Ludwig Mies
van der Rohe (18861969),
who built the Seagram
Building (p179), did not believe
in inventing a new architecture
every Monday morning,
although some might argue
that this is just what New York
has always done best.
52  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

NEW YORK CITY

THROUGH THE YEAR
Springtime in New York sees Park Avenue
filled with blooms, while Fifth Avenue goes
green for St. Patricks Day, the first of the years
many big parades. Summer in the city is hot
and humid, but it is worth forsaking an air-
conditioned interior to step outside, where
parks and squares are the setting for free
open-air music and theater. The first Monday
in September marks Labor Day and the advent
of the orange-red colors of autumn. Then, as
Christmas nears, the shops and streets begin
to sparkle with dazzling window displays.
Dates of the events on the following pages
may vary. For details, consult the listings
magazines (see p369). NYC & Co., part of the
New York Convention and Visitors Bureau
(see p363), issues a useful quarterly free
calendar of events.

Spring
Every season in New York
brings its own tempo and
temptations. In spring, the city
shakes off the winter with tulips
and cherry blossoms in the
parks and spring fashions in
the stores. Everyone window-
shops and gallery-hops. The
hugely popular St. Patricks
Day Parade draws the crowds,
and thousands don their finery
for the Easter Parade down
Fifth Avenue.
March
St. Patricks Day Parade (Mar 17),
Fifth Ave, from 44th to 86th St.
Green clothes, beer and flowers,
plus bagpipes.
Greek Independence Day
Parade (Mar 25), Fifth Ave, from
49th to 59th St. Greek dancing
and food.
Easter
Easter Flower Show
(week before Easter), Macys
department store. Annual floral
extravaganza with a different
theme each year (pp1367).
Yellow tulips and cabs shine on Park Avenue
Inventive Easter bonnets in New Yorks Easter Parade
Easter Parade (Easter Sun),
Fifth Ave, from 44th to 59th
St. Paraders in costumes and
outrageous millinery gather
around St. Patricks Cathedral.
April
Cherry Blossom Festival
(late MarApr), Brooklyn Botanic
Garden. Famous for Japanese
cherry trees and beautifully
laid-out ornamental gardens.
TriBeCa Film Festival (Apr).
Celebrates film, music, and
culture with more than 100
films from around
the world (p340).
Earth Day Festival
Activities (varies).
Baseball (Aprlate
Sep/early Oct). Major
league season starts
for Yankees and
Mets (p352).
New York City
Ballet Spring Season
(AprJun), New York
State Theater and
Metropolitan Opera
House in Lincoln
Center (pp21617).
May
Five Boro Bike Tour (first Sun
May), a 42-mile (68-km) ride
ending with a festival with live
music, food and exhibitions.
Cuban Day Parade (first Sun May),
a carnival on Sixth Ave, between
44th St and Central Park South.
Parading in national costume on Greek
Independence Day
Ninth Avenue International
Food Festival (mid-May), from
W 37th to W 57th St. Ethnic
foods, music, and dance.
Washington Square Outdoor
Art Exhibit (usually last two
weekends May; also Sep).
Memorial Day Activities
(last weekend May). A parade
down Fifth Ave, festivities
at South Street Seaport.
 NEW YORK CITY THROUGH THE YEAR  53

Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Days of Sunshine

Hours Hours
New York enjoys long
hours of summer sun
25 25
from June to August,
20 20 with July the month
of greatest sunshine.
15 15 The winter days are
much shorter, but
10 10 many are clear and
bright. Autumn has
5 5
more sunshine than
0 0 spring, although both
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec are sunny.

the Bard at Delacorte Theater,

Summer
Central Park (p339).
New Yorkers escape the hot NYC Pride March (late Jun).
city streets when possible, for The annual parade sets off
picnics, boat rides, and the from 36th St and goes along
beaches. Macys fireworks light Fifth Ave to Christopher St past
up the Fourth of July skies, and the Stonewall Inn (p347).
more sparks fly when the New
York Yankees and Mets baseball July
teams are in town. Summer also Macys Firework Display Festivities at a summer street fair in
brings street fairs, outdoor (Jul 4), usually the East River. Greenwich Village
concerts, and free Shakespeare This is the undisputed high
and opera in Central Park. point of the citys Indepen- Lincoln Center Festival (Jul).
dence Day celebrations, Dance, opera, and other
featuring the best fireworks performing arts from around
in town. the world.
American Crafts Festival
(mid-Junearly Jul), Lincoln August
Center (p216). Displays of Harlem Week (mid-Aug).
high-quality crafts. Films, art, music, dance,
Mostly Mozart Festival (end fashion, sports, and tours.
Julend Aug), Avery Fisher Hall, Out-of-Doors Festival (Aug),
Lincoln Center (p342). Lincoln Center. Free dance and
Policeman dancing in the Puerto Rican NY Philharmonic Parks theater performances (p338).
Day Parade Concerts (late Julearly US Open Tennis Champion-
Aug). Free concerts in parks ships (late Augearly Sep),
June throughout the city (p343). Flushing Meadows (pp3523).
Puerto Rican Day Parade
(early Jun), Fifth Ave, from 44th
to 86th St. Floats and marching
bands celebrate people of
Puerto Rican descent living
in the US.
Museum Mile Festival (second
Tue), Fifth Ave, from 82nd to 105th
St. Free entry (usually 69pm)
to the several museums located
along this stretch of Fifth Ave.
Central Park Summerstage
(Jun-Aug), Central Park. Music
and dance of every variety,
almost daily, rain or shine.
Metropolitan Opera Parks
Concerts. Free evening
concerts in parks throughout
the city (p343).
Shakespeare in the Park
(JunSep). Star actors take on Crowds of spectators ock to the US Open Tennis Championships
54  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY
Average Monthly Temperature
C F
32
24
16
8 45
0 32
-8
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Autumn
Labor Day marks the end of
the summer. The Giants and
the Jets kick off the football
season, the Broadway season
begins, and the Festa di San
Gennaro in Little Italy is the
high point in a succession of
fun neighborhood fairs. Macys
Thanksgiving Day Parade is the
nations symbol that the holiday
season has arrived.
September
Richmond County Fair (Labor
Day weekend), in the grounds
of Historic Richmond Town,
Staten Island (p256). New Yorks
only authentic county fair.
West Indian Carnival (Labor
Day weekend), Brooklyn.
Parade, floats, music, dancing,
and food.
Brazilian Festival (early Sep),
E 46th St, between Times Sq
and Madison Ave. Brazilian
music, food, and crafts.
Exotic Caribbean carnival costume in the
streets of Brooklyn
Temperature
The chart shows the average
90 minimum and maximum
temperatures for each
75
month in New York. With
60 top temperatures averaging
84 F (29 C), the city can
become hot and humid.
In contrast, the months
of winter, although rarely
below freezing, can seem
18
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
bitterly cold.
New York is Book
Country (midlate Sep),
Fifth Ave, from 48th to
59th Sts. Book fair.
Festa di San Gennaro
(third week), Little Italy
(p98). Ten days of fes-
tivities and processions.
New York Film Festival
(mid-Sepearly Oct),
Lincoln Center (p216).
American films and
international art films.
Von Steuben Day Parade
(third week), Upper Fifth
Ave. German-American
celebrations.
American Football Huge Superman balloon oating above Macys
(season begins), MetLife Thanksgiving Day Parade
Stadium, home to the
Giants and the Jets (pp3523). November
New York City Marathon
October (first Sun). From Staten Island
Columbus Day Parade (second through all the city boroughs.
Mon), Fifth Ave, from 44th to Macys Thanksgiving Day
86th Sts. Parades and music Parade (fourth Thu), from
to celebrate Columbuss first Central Park West and W 79th
sighting of America. St to Broadway and W 34th St.
Pulaski Day Parade (Sun A joy for children, this famous
closest to Oct 5), Fifth Ave, from parade features floats, huge
26th to 52nd Sts. Celebrations balloons, and even an
for Polish-American hero appearance from Santa.
Casimir Pulaski. Christmas Spectacular
Rockefeller Center Ice (NovDec), Radio City Music
Skating Rink (OctMar). Hall. Variety show, with the
Skate beneath the famous Rockettes.
Christmas tree.
Halloween Parade (Oct 31),
Sixth Avenue, Greenwich
Village. Brilliant event with
fantastic costumes.
Big Apple Circus (OctJan),
Damrosch Park, Lincoln Center.
Special themes are presented
each year (p357).
Basketball (season begins),
Madison Square Garden. Local Revelers in Greenwich Villages
team is the Knicks (pp3523). Halloween Parade

Average Monthly Rainfall
mm
100
80
60
40
20
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Winter
New York is a magical place at
Christmas even the stone
lions at the Public Library don
wreaths for the occasion, and
shops become works of art.
From Times Square to China-
town, New Year celebrations
punctuate the season, and
Central Park becomes a winter
sports arena.
Statue of Alice in Wonderland in
Central Park
December
Tree-Lighting Ceremony
(early Dec), Rockefeller Center
(p146). Lighting of the giant
Christmas tree in front of the
RCA Building.
Messiah Sing-In (mid-Dec),
Lincoln Center (p216). The
audience rehearses and
performs under the guidance
of various conductors.
Hanukkah Menorah
(midlate Dec), Grand Army
Plaza, Brooklyn. Lighting of the
huge menorah (candelabra)
every night during the eight-
day Festival of Lights.
New Years Eve. Fireworks
display in Central Park (pp2089);
festivities in Times Square
(p149); 5-mile (8-km) run in
Central Park; poetry reading
in St. Marks Church.
NEW YORK CITY THROUGH THE YEAR  55
Inches Rainfall
4 March and August are
the months of heaviest
3 rainfall in New York.
Rainfall in spring is usually
2 unpredictable, so be
prepared. Sudden heavy
snowfalls in winter can
1
cause chaos in the city.
Rainfall
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Snowfall
January
National Boat Show
(Jan), Jacob K. Javits
Convention Center
(p140).
Chinese New
Year (late Jan/Feb),
Chinatown (pp989).
Dragons, fireworks,
and food.
Winter Antiques
Show (Jan), Seventh
Regiment Armory Chinese New Year celebrations in Chinatown
(p189). NYCs most
prestigious antiques fair. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
February New Years Day (Jan 1)
Black History Month. African- Martin Luther King Jr. Day
American events take place (3rd Mon, Jan)
throughout the city.
Presidents Day (3rd Mon, Feb)
Empire State Building Run-
Up (early Feb). Runners race Memorial Day (last Mon, May)
to the 102nd floor (pp1389). Independence Day (Jul 4)
Presidents Day Holiday Sales Labor Day (1st Mon, Sep)
(Feb 1222) Big department Columbus Day (2nd Mon, Oct)
stores sales throughout the city.
Election Day (1st Tue, Nov)
Westminster Kennel Club
Dog Show (mid-Feb), Madison Veterans Day (Nov 11)
Square Garden (p137). Thanksgiving Day (4th Thu, Nov)
Americas most prestigious Christmas Day (Dec 25)
dog show.
The giant Christmas tree and decorations at Rockefeller Center
56  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

The Southern Tip of Manhattan

Lower Manhattan, as seen from the Hudson River, encompasses some of the
most striking modern additions to the city skyline, such as the distinctively
topped quartet of the World Financial Center. You will also catch glimpses of
earlier Manhattan: Castle Clinton set against the green space of Battery Park
and, behind it, Custom House. From 1973 until September 2001 the area
also boasted the World Trade Center. Its landmark towers were destroyed in
a terrorist attack on the city. The One World Trade Center building (formerly Locator Map
known as Freedom Tower), on the northwest corner of the National The Southern Tip
September 11 Memorial and Museum site, was completed in 2013.

National September 11
Memorial and Museum
Built on the site of the
former World Trade
Center, the National
September 11 Memorial
and Museum pay tribute
to the nearly 3,000
people who died in a
terrorist attack on the city.

An Earlier View
This 1898 photograph
shows a skyline now
changed beyond
The Upper Room
recognition.
This walk-around
sculpture by Ned
Smyth is one of many
works of art in Battery
Park City (see p74).

Detail from The Upper Room

 T H E M A N H AT TA N S K Y L I N E  57

26 Broadway
KEY The tower of the
former Standard Oil
1 World Financial Center has at
the heart of its complex the Winter
Building resembles
Garden a place to shop, dine, be
an oil lamp. The
entertained, plus great views of the
interior is still
Hudson River (see p71).
decorated with
company symbols.
2 One World Trade Center was
completed in 2013. Numerous
other skyscrapers are still being
built on the complex.
3 Liberty View
4 Liberty Plaza

5 Bank of New York

6 East Coast War Memorial East Coast War
7 26 Broadway Memorial
In Battery Park, a huge
8 17 State Street bronze eagle by Albino
9 Castle Clinton Manca honors the dead of
0 US Custom House
World War II.

American Merchant
Mariners Memorial (1991) Shrine of Mother Seton
This sculpture by Marisol is on Pier A, the last of The first US-born saint
Manhattans old piers. The pier also has a clock lived here (see p78).
tower that chimes the hours on ships bells.
58  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Lower Manhattan from the East River

At first sight, this stretch of East River shoreline, running up from the tip
of Manhattan Island, is a seamless array of 20th-century office buildings.
But from sea level, streets and slips are still visible, offering glimpses of
old New York and the Financial District to the west. On the skyline itself,
a few of the districts early skyscrapers still proudly display their ornate
crowns above their more anonymous modern counterparts.
Locator Map
East River View

Vietnam Veterans Plaza India House

An engraved green-glass memorial The handsome brownstone
dominates the former Coenties Slip, Hanover Square at One Hanover
a wharf filled in to make a park in the A statue of one of Square is one
late 19th century (see p78). the Dutch mayors, of the finest of
Abraham De Peyster, its kind.
sits near the house
where he was born
in 1657.

Downtown Heliport
Air-Sea Rescue and sightseeing
flights operate from here.

Battery Maritime Building Delmonicos

This historic ferry terminal serves This upscale steakhouse
only Governors Island (see p79). draws many carnivores.
 T H E M A N H AT TA N S K Y L I N E  59

New York Stock Exchange KEY

Although hidden from view by
more modern edifices, this is still 1 One New York Plaza
the hub of the hectic Financial 2 55 Water Street
District (see pp723).
3 Barclays Bank Building
4 One Financial Square
40 Wall Street
In the 1940s, the 5 New York Stock Exchange
pyramid-topped 6 Citibank Building
tower of the
7 Chase Manhattan Bank Tower
former Bank of
Manhattan was 8 120 Wall Street
hit by a light
aircraft.

70 Pine Street
Bank of New York Replicas of this
This serene 1928 interior is part elegant Gothic-
of the bank set up in 1784 by style tower can
Alexander Hamilton (see p25). be seen near the
Pine and Cedar
street entrances.

100 Old Slip

Now in the shadow
of One Financial
Square, the
small palazzo-
style First
Precinct Police
Department was
the citys most
modern police Queen Elizabeth Monument
station when it Carved medallion, The ocean liner that sank in
was built in 1911. 100 Old Slip 1972 is remembered here.
60  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

South Street Seaport

Where the Financial District ends, the skyline, as seen from the East River
or Brooklyn, changes dramatically. The corporate headquarters are
replaced by the piers, low-rise streets and warehouses of the old seaport
area, now restored as the South Street Seaport (see pp845). The Civic
Center lies not far inland, and a few of its monumental buildings can
be seen. The Brooklyn Bridge marks the end of this stretch of skyline.
Between here and midtown, apartment blocks make up the majority Locator Map
of riverside features. South Street Area

Stonework on
the Woolworth
Building

Pier 17
A focal point of the Seaport, this leisure
pier is undergoing renovations, which Woolworth Building
are due to be completed in 2015. The handsomely decorated
spire marks the headquarters
of F.W. Woolworths empire.
It is still the finest cathedral
of commerce ever built
(see p93).

Maritime Crafts Center

At Pier 15, craftspeople demonstrate Titanic Memorial
traditional seafaring skills such as The lighthouse on Fulton Street commemorates the
woodcarving and sinking of the Titanic, the largest steamship ever built.
model-making.
 T H E M A N H AT TA N S K Y L I N E  61

Police Plaza KEY

5 in 1 (19714), in
Police Plaza, is a sculpture 1 Fleet Bank Building
by Bernard Rosenthal. It 2 Seaport Plaza
represents the five boroughs
3 Bogardus building
of New York.
4 Transportation Building

5 Pace University
6 Southbridge Towers
7 Police Plaza
8 Verizon Telephone Company

United States Courthouse

Municipal Building
Among the offices of this vast
building is the Marriage Chapel,
where weddings at City Hall
actually take place. The copper
statue on the skyline is Civic Fame
by Adolph Weinman (see p87).
The Civic Center is marked on the
skyline by the golden pyramid of
Surrogates Court architect Cass Gilberts courthouse
and Hall of Records (see p87).
Archives dating back to 1664
are stored and displayed here
(see p87).

Con Edison Mural

In 1975, artist Richard
Haas re-created the
Brooklyn Bridge on the Brooklyn Bridge
sidewall of a former Views of, and from, the bridge have made it one
electrical substation. of New Yorks best-loved landmarks (see pp8891).
62  INTRODUCING NEW YORK CITY

Midtown Manhattan
The skyline of Midtown Manhattan is graced with some of the citys
most spectacular towers and spires from the familiar beauty of the
Empire State Buildings Art Deco pinnacle to the dramatic wedge shape
of Citibanks modern headquarters. As the shoreline progresses uptown,
so the architecture becomes more varied; the United Nations complex
dominates a long stretch, and then Beekman Place begins a strand of
exclusive residential enclaves that offer the rich and famous some Locator Map
seclusion in this busy part of the city. Midtown

Grand Central Terminal

Now dwarfed by its neighbors, this
landmark building is full of period
details, such
as this fine
clock (see
pp1589).

Chrysler Building
Glinting in the sun by day or lit up
Empire State Building by night, this stainless-steel spire
At 1,250 ft (381 m), this is, for many, the ultimate New York
was the tallest building skyscraper (see p157).
in the world for many
years (see pp1389).

United Nations
Works of art from member
countries include this
Barbara Hepworth
sculpture, a gift from
Britain (see pp1625).

1 and 2 UN Plaza
Tudor City Angular glass towers
Built in the 1920s, this complex is house offices and the
mock Tudor on a grand scale, with UN Millennium Plaza
over 3,000 apartments (see p160). Hotel (see p160).
 T H E M A N H AT TA N S K Y L I N E  63

General Electric Building KEY

Built of brick in 1931, this Art Deco
building has a tall spiked crown that 1 The Highpoint
resembles radio waves. (see p178). 2 MetLife Building
3 Trump World Tower
4 100 UN Plaza

5 General Electric Building

6 866 Plaza
7 Citigroup Center

Rockefeller Center
The outdoor skating
rink and walkways of
this complex of office
buildings, shops, and
eateries are a great
place to people watch
(see p146).
Waldorf-Astoria
The splendid interior of one
of the citys finest hotels lies
beneath twin copper-capped
towers (see p179).
The Nail
This exterior cross designed by
Arnaldo Pomodoro, resides in
St. Peters Church, which is
located in one corner of the
Citigroup Center (see p179).

Japan Society
Japanese culture, from avant-
garde plays to ancient art, can
be seen here (see pp16061).

Beekman Tower
Now an all-suite hotel,
this Art Deco tower
St. Marys Garden was built in 1928 as a
The garden at Holy hotel for women who
Family Church is a were members of US
peaceful haven. college sororities.
Queensboro Bridge and Midtown Manhattan skyline at dusk
 NEW YORK
CITY
AREA BY AREA

Lower Manhattan 6681

Seaport and the Civic Center 8293
Lower East Side, Chinatown,
and Little Italy 94103
Soho and Tribeca 104109
Greenwich Village 110117
East Village 118123
Gramercy and the
Flatiron District 124131
Chelsea and the
Garment District 132141
Theater District 142151
Lower Midtown 152167
Upper Midtown 168183
Upper East Side 184205
Central Park 206211
Upper West Side 212221
Morningside Heights
and Harlem 222233
Farther Afield 234257
Seven Guided Walks 258275
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  67

LOWER MANHATTAN
The old and the new converge at Lower Indians for goods valued at $24 (see p21).
Manhattan, where Colonial churches and early Several buildings are under development
American monuments stand in the shadow of around the National September 11 Memorial
skyscrapers. New York was born here, and this and Museum (see p56). Two skyscrapers are
was the site of the nations first capitol. Com- now complete, including One World Trade
merce has also flourished here since 1626, Center, which is the third-tallest building in
when Dutchman Peter Minuit purchased the the world, soaring to 1,776 ft (541 m). Visitors
island of Man-a-hatt-ta from the Algonquian should call all sights to check opening times.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and e Fraunces Tavern Museum Monuments and Statues
Important Sites y Battery Maritime Building 9 Charging Bull
1 Federal Reserve Bank Museums and Galleries u Statue of Liberty pp767
2 Federal Hall
8 Skyscraper Museum Parks and Squares
3 New York Stock
q US Custom House 0 Bowling Green
Exchange pp723
i Ellis Island pp8081 r Vietnam Veterans Plaza
6 National September 11
p Castle Clinton o Battery Park
Memorial and Museum National Monument
Boat Trips
a Museum of Jewish Heritage
t Staten Island Ferry

CH
Churches
AM
BE 4 Trinity Church
E

RS
T ERR A C

WA ST w Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton Shrine

RR RE
EN ET
Modern Architecture
ST
STREET
UE

RE
ET 5 World Financial Center
EN
R

AV

Chambers St
7 Battery Park City
VE

MURR
AY 1.2.3
RI

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T ST)

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FERRIES TO STATEN ISLAND
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See also Street Finder maps 1, 2

Statue of Liberty monument, Liberty Island For keys to symbols see back flap
68  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: The Marine Midland

Wall Street
No intersection has been of greater importance
to the city, past or present, than the corners of
Wall and Broad streets. Three important sites are
located here. Federal Hall National Monument
marks the place where, in 1789, George
Washington was sworn in as president.
Trinity Church is one of the nations
oldest Anglican parishes. The New
York Stock Exchange, founded in
1817, is to this day a financial nerve
center whose ups and downs cause
tremors around the globe. The
surrounding buildings are the
very heart of New Yorks famous
financial district.
Bank rises straight up 55
stories. This dark, glass
tower occupies only
40 percent of its site.
The other 60 percent is
a plaza in which a large
red sculpture by Isamu
Noguchi, Cube, balances
on one of its points.
Trinity Building, an
early 20th-century
Gothic skyscraper,
was designed to
complement nearby
Trinity Church.

The Equitable Building (1915)

deprived its neighbors of light,
prompting a change in the law:
skyscrapers had to be set back
from the street.

4. Trinity Church
Built in 1846 in a
Gothic style, this is the
third church on this
site. Once the tallest Wall Street subway
structure in the city, (lines 4, 5)
the bell tower is now
dwarfed by the
skyscrapers that
surround it. Many
Y
A

famous early New

W

Yorkers are buried

D
A

in the churchyard.
O
R

EX
B

CH
A
N
G
E
ET

The Irving Trust Company, PL

RE

built in 1932, has an outer wall A

CE
patterned to look like fabric. In
ST
ET

the lobby is an Art Deco mosaic

RE

AD

in shades of flame and gold.

ST

BRO
W
NE

3. New York
26 Broadway Stock Exchange
was built as the The hub of the
home of the worlds financial
Standard Oil markets is housed in
Trust. An oil lamp a 17-story building
rests on top of it. constructed in 1903.
 LO W E R M A N H AT TA N  69

The Liberty Tower is clad SOHO &

TRIBECA
LOWER
EAST SIDE,

er
in white terracotta and is in

n Riv
CHINATOWN
& LITTLE ITALY
the Gothic style. It was later

Hudso
SEAPORT &
THE CIVIC
turned into apartments. CENTER
LOWER
MANHATTAN

r
Upper

ve
Ri
Bay

st
Ea
LOWER
The Chamber of MANHATTAN
ELLIS I.
Brooklyn
Commerce is a LIBERTY I.
Governors
fine Beaux Arts Island

building of 1901. Chase Manhattan Bank Locator Map

and Plaza has the See Manhattan Map pp1617
famous Jean Dubuffet
sculpture Four Trees
located in the plaza. Key
Suggested route

0 meters 100

0 yards 100

1. Federal
Reserve Bank
In the style of a
Renaissance
palace, this is a
bank for banks.
US currency is
issued here.
M
A
ID

L
IB
ET

EN

E
RE

R
ST

T
LA

Y
U
SA

S
N

T
AS

R
N

E
E
T
Louise Nevelson Plaza is a
park containing Nevelsons
C sculpture Shadows and Flags.
E
D
A
R
S
T
R
E
E
T
ET

W Wall Street is named for

A
RE

L the wall that kept enemies

ST

L
S and warring Indians out of
M

T
IA

R Manhattan the street is

E
LL

E now the heart of the citys

T
WI

business center.

2. Federal Hall
Built as the US Custom House
in 1842, this classical building
houses a fascinating exhibit
about the Constitution. Wall Street in the 1920s
70  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Entrance to Federal Reserve Bank
1 Federal
Reserve Bank
33 Liberty St. Map 1 C2. Tel (212) 720-
6130. q Fulton StBroadway Nassau.
8 Open 10am3pm MonFri on
the hour. Free (register in advance).
Closed pub hols. ^ 7
newyorkfed.org
This is a government bank
for banks it is one of the
12 Federal Reserve banks, and
therefore issues US currency.
You can identify bills originating
from this branch by the letter B
in the Federal Reserve seal
on each note.
Five stories below ground is
one of the largest storehouses
for international gold. Each
nations hoard is stored in its own
compartment within the
subterranean vault, guarded
by 90-ton doors. Payments
between nations used to be
made by physical transfers
of gold. An exhibition of The
Marble-columned rotunda within Federal Hall
History of Money, with 800
items, runs from 10am to 4pm.
Designed by York & Sawyer in
the Italian Renaissance style, the
1924 building occupies a full
block and is adorned with fine
wrought-iron grillwork.
2 Federal Hall
26 Wall St. Map 1 C3. Tel (212) 825-
6888. q Wall St. Open 9am5pm
MonFri. Closed public hols.
7 8 10am, 11am, 13pm Mon
Fri. = nps.gov/feha
A bronze statue of George
Washington on the steps of
Federal Hall marks the site where
the nations first president took his
oath of office in 1789. Thousands
of New Yorkers jammed Wall and
Broad streets for the occasion.
They roared their approval when
the Chancellor of the State of
New York shouted, Long live
George Washington, President
of the United States.
The present structure,
renovated in 2006, was built
between 1834 and 1842 as
the US Customs House. It is
one of the finest Classical
designs in the city. Display
rooms off the Rotunda include
the Bill of Rights Room and an
interactive computer exhibit
about the Constitution.
3 New York
Stock Exchange
See pp723.
Trinity Churchyard
4 Trinity Church
Broadway at Wall St. Map 1 C3. Tel
(212) 602-0800. q Wall St, Rector St.
Open 7am6pm MonFri, 8am4pm
Sat, 7am4pm Sun (church);
7am4pm MonFri, 8am3pm Sat &
pub hols, 7am3pm Sun (churchyard).
5 12:05pm MonFri, 9am & 11:15am
Sun. except during services. 8 2pm
daily; also Sun after 11:15am service.
Concerts: see details online. = -
trinitywallstreet.org
This square-towered Episcopal
church at the head of Wall
Street is the third one on this
site. Designed in 1846 by
Richard Upjohn, it was among
the grandest churches of its
day, marking the beginning
of the best period of Gothic
Revival architecture in America.
Richard Morris Hunts design for
the sculpted brass doors was
inspired by Lorenzo Ghibertis
Doors of Paradise at the Baptistery
in Florence.
Restoration has uncovered
the original rosy sandstone,
long buried beneath layers of
city grime. The 280-ft (86-m)
steeple, the tallest structure in
New York until the 1860s, still
commands respect despite its
towering neighbors.
Many prominent early
New Yorkers are buried in the
graveyard: statesman Alexander
Hamilton; steamboat inventor
Robert Fulton; and William
Bradford, founder of New
Yorks first newspaper in 1725.
 LO W E R M A N H AT TA N  71

5 World Financial
Center
West St. Map 1 A2. Tel (212) 945-2600.
q Fulton St, WTC Station, Cortlandt
St, Rector St. 7 0 - =
worldfinancialcenter.com

A model of urban design by

Cesar Pelli & Associates, this
development is a vital part of
the revival of Lower Manhattan,
and its damage in the World
Trade Center attack was
attended to as a matter of
urgency. Four office towers
soar skyward, housing the
headquarters of some of
the worlds most important
financial companies, including
Dow Jones and American
Express. At the heart of the
complex lies the dazzling
Winter Garden, a vast glass-
and-steel public space (all
2,000 panes of glass had
to be replaced), flanked by
45 restaurants and shops,
opening onto a lively piazza
and marina on the Hudson
River. The sweeping marble
staircase leading down to the
Winter Garden often doubles as
seating for free events, varying Main oor of the Winter Garden
The atrium is a sparkling vault of
glass and steel, 120 ft (36 m) high.

The hourglass
staircase is used as
extra seating during
concerts in the
Winter Garden.

An esplanade borders the Hudson. Cafs and shops line the atrium.

from classical to contemporary

in music, dance, and theater.
Sixteen Washingtonia robusta
palm trees, 40 ft (15 m) high,
have been replaced in this
contemporary version of the
palm court of yesteryear.
Inaugurated in 1988, the
building has been hailed as
the Rockefeller Center of the
21st century. World Financial Center viewed from the Hudson River
72  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

3 New York Stock Exchange

In 1790, trading in stocks and shares took place
haphazardly on or around Wall Street, but in 1792,
24 brokers who traded at 68 Wall Street signed
an agreement to deal only with one another: the
basis of the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE) was
formed. The NYSE has weathered a succession
of alternating slumps (bear markets) and
booms (bull markets), growing from a local
marketplace into a financial center of global
importance. Membership is strictly limited.
In 1817, a seat cost $25; in the bullish years
of the late 1990s, the prices ran as high as
$4 million. In 2006, the NYSE became a for-
profit public company, and all the seats were
exchanged for cash and stock settlements.
Traders now buy one-year licenses.

What a Trading Post does

The 17 trading posts each consist of 22 groups, or
sections, of traders and technology, each trading
the stock of up to 10 listed companies. Commission
brokers work for brokerage firms, and rush
between booth and trading post, buying and
selling securities (stocks and bonds) for the public.
A specialist trades in just one stock at a time,
quoting bids to other brokers, and independent
floor brokers handle orders for busy brokerage
firms. Clerks process the orders that come into
the trading post via SuperDOT computer into the
Exchanges Market Data System. The pages help
on the busy exchange floor, bringing orders from
the booths to the brokers and specialists. Post
display units show stock prices, and flat screens
show prices and trades for the specialist. As of
January 24, 2007, all NYSE stocks have been
traded via an electronic hybrid market.

Trading post

KEY

1 Computerized stock tickers

flash a steady stream of prices as Ticker-Tape Machine
fast as the human eye is able to Introduced in the 1870s,
read them. these machines printed
out up-to-the-minute
2 Public viewing gallery
details of purchase
3 Trading post prices on ribbons of
paper tape.
 LO W E R M A N H AT TA N  73

The 48-Hour Day VISITORS CHECKLIST

During the 1929
Crash, Stock Practical Information
Exchange clerks 20 Broad St.
worked nonstop Map 1 C3. Tel (212) 656-3000.
for 48 hours. Their Closed visitors gallery closed to
mood stayed the public for security reasons.
cheerful despite 8 for educational purposes
the panic outside. only. Highly restricted. 7
Transport
@ M5, M15, M20 q 2, 3, 4, 5 to
Wall St; R to Rector St.

Trading Floor
On a typical day, some 3.5 billion shares are traded for more than
2,000 listed companies. The advanced electronics that support the
Designated Order Turnaround (SuperDOT) computer are carried
above the chaos of the trading floor in a web of gold piping.

Great Crash of 1929

On Tuesday, October
29, over 16 million
shares changed
hands as the stock
market crashed.
Investors thronged
Wall Street in
bewilderment but,
contrary to popular
myth, traders did
not leap from
windows in panic.
Members entrance,
Wall Street

1867 Ticker-tape
1792 1903 Present Stock
machines introduced
Buttonwood Exchange building opens
2014 Dow Jones
Agreement 1844 Invention of
1987 Black Monday crash, Index hits 17,279
signed on the telegraph allows October 19. Dow Jones Index on September 19,
May 17 trading nationwide drops 508 points an all-time peak
1750 1800 1850 1900 1950 2000 2050

1817 New York 1865 New Exchange
Stock & Exchange Building opens at Wall
Board created and Broad streets
1869 Black Friday gold
crash, September 24
1929 Wall 2001 After 8 years of 2009 Dow Jones
St. Crash, bull markets, economy Index hits 6,547,
October 29 falters after September 11 a 12-year low
2006 The NYSE merges with Archipelago
Holdings to become a for-profit public company
74  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Philippe Petit about to step out between the two towers in 1974
6 National
September 11
Memorial and
Museum
Map 1 B2. q Chambers St, Rector St.
Tribute WTC Visitor Center 120 Liberty
St. Tel (866) 737-1184. Open 10am
6pm MonSat, till 5pm Sun (varies by
season). & 8 911memorial.org
The twin towers of the World
Trade Center dominated the
skyline of Lower Manhattan
for 27 years, until they were
destroyed in a terrorist attack (see
p56). When the towers opened,
in 1973, they were the tallest
buildings in the world and soon
became an iconic part of New
Yorks history. One particularly
memorable incident occurred on
August 7, 1974, when Philippe
Petit stepped onto a tightrope
between the towers and
entertained crowds of office
workers for almost an hour.
Today, the former World Trade
Center site consists of a moving
memorial to those who lost
their lives during the terrorist
attacks of February 26, 1993
and September 11, 2001. The
memorial opened to the public
soon after the 10th anniversary
of the latter attacks, in 2011.
A museum located 70 ft (21 m)
below ground offers views of
the trident installations and
walls that remained untouched
after the attack, plus a variety of
viewpoints and remembrances
of that fateful day.
The design, by Michael Arad of
Handel Architects and landscape
architecture firm Peter Walker
and Partners, features two square
pools in the center, where the
twin towers once stood. The
largest manmade waterfalls in
the US cascade down the sides
of the pools; together they
symbolize the loss of life and the
physical void left by the terrorist
attacks. The names of the 2,977
who were killed in the Septem-
ber 11 attacks in New York City,
Arlington, VA, and Shanksville, PA,
and the names of the six victims
killed in the 1993 World Trade
Center bombing, are inscribed
in bronze around the edges
of the pools. The sound of the
waterfalls drowns out the noise
of the city, making the site a
contemplative sanctuary. A forest
of roughly 400 trees fills the rest
of the Memorial Plaza, furthering
the reflective nature of the site.
7 Battery Park City
Map 1 A3. q Rector St. 7 0 =
batteryparkcity.org
Governor Mario Cuomo set
the tone for this project in 1983
when he urged the developers,
Give it a social purpose give
it a soul. The ambitious
Battery Park City esplanade
neighborhood is on 92
reclaimed acres (37 ha)
along the Hudson River.
The restaurants, apartments,
sculptures, and gardens are
built on a human scale.
Battery Park City is designed
to house more than 25,000
people. The most visible part
of it is the World Financial
Center (see p71) and total costs
are estimated at $4 billion.
The 1.2-mile (2-km)
walk along the river offers
unobstructed views of the
Statue of Liberty.
The airy Skyscraper Museum
8 Skyscraper
Museum
39 Battery Pl. Map 1 A3. Tel (212) 968-
1961. q Bowling Green, Rector St.
Open noon6pm WedSun. & =
skyscraper.org
Adjacent to the Ritz Carlton
hotel, this museum celebrates
New Yorks architectural
heritage and examines the
historical forces and individuals
that shaped the citys
skyline. There is a permanent
exhibition on the World Trade
Center and a digital
reconstruction of how
Manhattan has changed over
time, as well as temporary
exhibitions that analyze the
various definitions of tall
buildings: as objects of design,
products of technology, sites
of construction, real-estate
investments, and places of
work and residence.
 LO W E R M A N H AT TA N  75

q US Custom House
1 Bowling Green. Map 1 C4.
q Bowling Green. National Museum
of the American Indian. Tel (212) 514-
3700. Open 10am5pm daily (to 8pm
Thu). Closed Dec 25. 7 =
nmai.si.edu

One of New Yorks finest

Beaux Arts designs, this 1907
granite palace by Cass Gilbert
is a fitting monument to the
citys role as a great seaport,
decorated by the best
sculptors and artists of the
time. Forty-four Ionic columns
stand guard, with an ornate
frieze. Heroic sculptures by
Arturo Di Modicas iconic bull statue, at the southern end of Broadway Daniel Chester French depict
four continents as seated
9 Charging Bull statue was hacked to pieces women: Asia (contemplative),
and smelted for ammunition America (facing optimistically
Broadway at Bowling Green. (see pp245). The wife of the forward), Europe (surrounded
Map 1 C4. q Bowling Green. governor of Connecticut is said by symbols of past glories)
to have melted down enough and Africa (still sleeping).
At 1am on December 15, 1989, pieces to mold 42,000 bullets. Inside, murals by Reginald
sculptor Arturo Di Modica and 30 The fence, erected in 1771, Marsh decorate the fine
friends unloaded his 7,000-lb is still standing, marble rotunda,
(3,200-kg) Charging Bull bronze but minus the showing the
statue in front of the New York royal crowns progress of
Stock Exchange. The group had that once ships into
eight minutes between police adorned the harbor.
patrols to place the sculpture, but it. They met the Opposite the
they managed to carry out the same fate as entrance is a
deed in just five. The bull was later the statue. The portrait of movie
taken away for obstructing traffic Green was once star Greta Garbo
and lacking a permit. Due to the surrounded by giving a press
large outcry, however, the Parks elegant homes. conference on
Department gave it a temporary Beyond it is the board ship. In
stomping ground on Broadway, start of Broadway, 1973 the US
just north of Bowling Green, which runs the Customs Service
where it remains to this day, the length of Top of a column at the moved out, leaving
unofficial mascot of Wall Street. Manhattan and, US Custom House the building empty
Di Modica created the under its formal but for a small
sculpture after the 1987 stock- name of Route 9, all the bankruptcy court.
market crash, to symbolize the way north to the State capital The Custom House took
strength, power, and hope of the in Albany. on a different function in 1994,
American people for the future. It when the George Gustav Heye
took him two years to complete, Center of the Smithsonian
at a personal cost of $350,000. National Museum of the
American Indian was unveiled
on three floors of the building.
0 Bowling Green The museums outstanding
Map 1 C4. q Bowling Green.
collection of about a million
artifacts, along with an archive
This triangular plot north of many thousands of photo-
of Battery Park was the citys graphs, spans the breadth of
earliest park, used first as a the native cultures of North,
cattle market and later as a Central, and South America.
bowling ground. A statue of Exhibitions include works
King George III stood here until by contemporary Native
the signing of the Declaration American artists as well as
of Independence, when, as a changing displays drawn from
symbol of British rule, the Fountain at Bowling Green the permanent collection.
76  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

u Statue of Liberty
A gift from the French to the American people, the
statue was the brainchild of sculptor Frdric-
Auguste Bartholdi and has become a symbol
of freedom throughout the world. In Emma
Lazaruss poem, which is engraved on the
base, Lady Liberty says: Give me your tired,
your poor, Your huddled masses yearning to . Golden Torch
breathe free. Unveiled by President In 1986, a new torch
Grover Cleveland on October 28, 1886, the replaced the corroded
original. The replicas flame is
statue was restored in time for its 100th coated in 24-carat gold leaf.
anniversary in 1986. Public access to the
balcony surrounding the torch has been
barred for safety reasons since 1916.

The Statue
With a height of
305 ft (93 m) from
ground to torch, the
Statue of Liberty
dominates New
York harbor.

From Her Toes to Her Torch

Three hundred molded copper
sheets riveted together make
up Lady Liberty.

KEY

1 The original torch now stands

in the main lobby.
2 Museum
3 The pedestal is set within
the walls of an army fort. It was the
largest concrete mass ever poured.
4 354 steps lead from the
entrance to the crown. . Statue of
5 Observation deck Liberty Museum
Posters featuring the
6 A central pylon anchors the
statue are among the
200-ton statue to its base.
items on display.
7 The frame was designed by
Gustave Eiffel, who later built the
Eiffel Tower. The copper shell hangs
on bars from a central iron pylon.
8 The crowns seven rays represent
the worlds seas and continents.
 LO W E R M A N H AT TA N  77

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Map 1 A5.
Tel (212) 363-3200.
Liberty Island: Open 9:45am
4:45pm; holiday hours vary.
Closed Dec 25.
Transport
q 1 to South Ferry; 4, 5 to
Bowling Green; R, W to Whitehall.
@ M5, M15, M20 to South Ferry,
then g Statue Cruises Ferry
from the Battery every 2030
. Ferries to Liberty Island
mins, 9:30am3:30pm summer
Ferries cross New York harbor to Liberty Island, where
(winter hours vary).
the Statue offers some of the citys finest views.
Tel (877) 523-9849.
& Ferry fare includes entry to
Ellis and Liberty islands. - =
nps.gov/stli

Portrait of
Liberty
Bartholdis mother
was the model for
Liberty. The seven
rays of her crown
represent the Making the Hand
seven seas and To mold the copper shell, the hand was
seven continents. made first in plaster, then wood.

Frdric-Auguste Bartholdi
The French sculptor who designed the Statue
of Liberty intended it as a monument to
the freedom he found lacking in his own
country. He said, I will try to glorify the
Republic and Liberty over there, in the
hope that someday I will find it again here.
Bartholdi devoted 21 years of his life to
making the statue a reality, even traveling
to America in 1871 to talk President Ulysses
S. Grant and others into funding it and
installing it in New Yorks harbor.

A Model Figure
A series of graduated scale
models enabled Bartholdi to
build the largest metal statue
ever constructed.
Restoration
Celebration
On July 3, 1986,
after a $100-million
restoration, the statue
was unveiled. The
$2-million fireworks
display was the
largest ever seen
in America.
78  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Elizabeth
Ann Seton
w Saint Elizabeth
Ann Seton Shrine
7 State St. Map 1 C4. Tel (212) 269-
6865. q Whitehall, South Ferry.
Open 10am4:30pm daily.
5 8:05am, 12:15pm MonFri; 11am
Sun. setonshrine.com
Elizabeth Ann Seton (17741821),
the first native-born American
to be canonized by the Catholic
Church, lived here from 1801
to 1803. Mother Seton founded
the American Sisters of Charity,
the first order of nuns in the
The 18th-century Fraunces Tavern Museum and restaurant
United States. After the Civil
War, the Mission of Our Lady
of the Rosary turned the
building into a shelter for
homeless Irish immigrant
women 170,000 passed
through on their way to a
new life in America. The
adjoining church was
built in 1883. The Mission
established and maintains
the shrine to Mother Seton.
e Fraunces
Tavern Museum
54 Pearl St. Map 1 C4. Tel (212)
425-1778. q Wall St, Broad St,
Bowling Green. Open noon
5pm daily. Closed public hols.
^ 8 groups only. Lectures,
films. 0 = fraunces
tavernmuseum.org
NYC Police Museum:
100 Old Slip, South St.
Map 1 D3. Tel (212) 480-3100.
Open noon5pm daily. Donation
suggested. 8 groups only.
nycpm.org
New Yorks only remaining block
of 18th-century commercial
buildings contains an exact
replica of the 1719 Fraunces
Tavern where George
Washington said farewell to
his officers in 1783. The tavern
had been an early casualty of
the Revolution: the British ship
Asia shot a cannonball through
its roof in August 1775. The
building was bought in 1904
by the Sons of the Revolution.
Its restoration in 1907 was
one of the first efforts to
preserve the nations heritage.
The ground-floor restaurant
has wood-burning fires and
great charm. An upstairs
museum has changing exhibits
interpreting the history and
culture of early America.
The New York City Police
Museum (see p86) is at South
Street. Exhibits include NYPD
artifacts, interactive displays,
seminars, and special events.
Visit the Hall of Heroes and
try your hand at the firearms
training simulator.
r Vietnam
Veterans Plaza
Between Water St and South St.
Map 2 D4. q Whitehall, South Ferry.
This multilevel brick plaza
features, in its center, an
enormous wall of translucent
green glass, engraved with
excerpts from speeches, news
stories, and moving letters to
families from servicemen and
women who died in the Vietnam
war between 1959 and 1975.
Staten Island Ferry one of the citys
best bargains
t Staten
Island Ferry
Whitehall St. Map 2 D5. Tel 311.
q South Ferry. Open 24 hrs. Free. 7
siferry.com
The first business venture of
a promising Staten Island boy
named Cornelius Vanderbilt,
who later became the railroad
magnate, the ferry has operated
since 1810, carrying island
commuters to and from the
city and offering visitors an
unforgettable close-up of the
harbor, the Statue of Liberty,

Ellis Island, and lower
Manhattans incredible skyline.
The fare is still the citys best
bargain: its free.
y Battery
Maritime Building
11 South St. Map 2 D4. q South
Ferry. Closed to the public.
From 1909 to 1938, the
municipal terminal for ferries
to Brooklyn operated here on
the site of a small wharf known
as Schreijers Hoek, from which
Dutch Colonial ships once set
sail for the mother country.
At the height of the ferry era,
17 lines made regular runs
from these bustling piers,
which are used now only by
the Coast Guard service for
Governors Island.
The building was designed
in 1907. Arriving boats face
300-ft (91-m) arched openings
guarded by tall, ornately
scrolled columns and adorned
with latticework, molding, and
rosettes typical of the Beaux
Arts period. This is actually
a false front of sheet metal
and steel, painted green to
resemble copper.
Ironwork railing on the Battery
Maritime Building
u Statue of Liberty
See pp767.
i Ellis Island
See pp8081.
LO W E R M A N H AT TA N
Castle Clinton National Monument in Battery Park
o Battery Park
Map 1 B4. q South Ferry,
Bowling Green.
Named for the cannons that
once protected the harbor, the
park is one of the best places
in the city for gazing out to
sea. Over the years, landfill
has extended the greenery
far beyond its original State
Street boundary.
The park is rimmed with
statues and monuments, such
as the Netherlands Memorial
Monument and memorials to
New Yorks first Jewish immi-
grants and the Coast Guard.
Fritz Koenigs The Sphere, a
sculpture that once stood in
the World Trade Center Plaza, is
now here, serving as a memorial
to those who died in the 9/11
terrorist attack.
Beaux Arts subway entrance at the corner
of Battery Park
p Castle
Clinton National
Monument
Battery Park. Map 1 B4. Tel (212) 344-
7220. q Bowling Green, South Ferry.
Open 8:30am5pm daily.
Closed Dec 25. 7 8 Concerts. =
nps.gov/cacl
Castle Clinton was built in 1811
as an artillery defense post 300
ft (91 m) offshore, connected to
 79
Battery Park by a causeway; but
landfill gradually linked it to the
mainland. None of its 28 guns
was ever used in battle.
The fort was enclosed in
1824 to become a fashionable
theater, where Phineas T.
Barnum introduced Swedish
nightingale Jenny Lind in
1850. In 1855 it preceded Ellis
Island as the citys immigration
point, processing over 8 million
newcomers. In 1896, it became
the New York Aquarium, which
moved to Coney Island in
1941 (see p251).
Now it is a monument and
visitors center for Manhattans
National Park Service sites, with
historical panoramas of the city.
The complex is the departure
point for the Statue of Liberty
Ellis Island ferry (see p378).
a Museum of
Jewish Heritage
36 Battery Place. Map 1 B4.
Tel (646) 437-4200. q Bowling
Green, South Ferry. @ M5, M15, M20.
Open 10am5:45pm SunThu (to
8pm Wed), 10am3pm Fri and eve
of Jewish holidays. Closed Sat, Jewish
holidays, Thanksgiving. & 7 9 =
- Lectures. mjhnyc.org
The museum has a core
exhibition of more than
2,000 photographs, 800
artifacts, and 25 documentary
films about Jewish life, before,
during, and after the Holocaust.
It also contains a state-of-the-
art theater for films, lectures,
and performances; a memorial
garden; classrooms; a resource
center and library; a family
history center; expanded
gallery space for temporary
exhibitions; offices; a caf
and event hall.
80  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

i Ellis Island
Half of Americas population can trace its roots to Ellis
Island, which served as the countrys immigration
depot from 1892 until 1954. Nearly 12 million
people passed through its gates and dispersed
across the country in the greatest wave of Main building
migration the world has ever known.
Centered on the Great Hall or Registry
Room, the site today houses the three-
story Ellis Island Immigration Museum.
Much of this story is told with photos and
the voices of actual immigrants, and an . Baggage Room
electronic database traces ancestors. The immigrants meager
Outside, the American Immigrant Wall of possessions were
checked here
Honor is the largest wall of names in the on arrival.
world. No other place explains so well the
melting pot that formed the character of
the nation. Visit early to avoid the crowds.

Rail Ticket
A special fare for
emigrants led many
on to California.

.Great Hall
. Dormitory Immigrant families were made
There were separate to wait for processing in the
sleeping quarters for Registry Room. The old metal
male and female railings were replaced with
detainees. wooden benches in 1911.

KEY
1 The ferry office sold tickets to
New Jersey.
2 The railroad office sold tickets
onward to the final destination.
3 The metal and glass awning is
a re-creation of the original.
The Restoration
In 1990 a $156-million project by
the Statue of Liberty-Ellis Island
Foundation, Inc., renewed several
ruined buildings, replacing the
copper domes and restoring the
interior with original fixtures.
 LO W E R M A N H AT TA N  81

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Map 1 A5. Tel (212) 363-3200.
Open 9:30am5:15pm daily
(extended hours during hols).
Closed Dec 25. & ferry fee
includes entry to Ellis Island and
Liberty Island. 7 8 9 0 -
nps.gov/elis
statuecruises.com

Transport
q 4, 5 to Bowling Green; 1 to
South Ferry; R, W to Whitehall,
then g Statue Cruises Ferry
from Battery Park. Departures:
every 2030 mins 8:30am4pm
summer (winter hours vary).
Tel (877) 523-9849.

Main entrance

Arrival
Steerage passengers
crowd the deck as
the ship approaches
Ellis Island.

Medical Examining Rooms

Immigrants with contagious Immigrant Family
diseases could be refused An Italian mother and her
entry and sent back home. children arrive in 1905.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  83

SEAPORT AND
THE CIVIC CENTER
Manhattans busy Civic Center is the hub of the oldest building in continuous use. Nearby
city and the state, of the federal governments is South Street Seaport. Called the street of
court systems and the citys police department. sails in the 19th century because of the many
In the 1880s it was the heart of the newspaper ships that were moored there, the seaport
publishing business as well. The area is still a underwent a decline when sailing ships
handsome enclave of imposing architecture became unprofitable. The area has been
with fine landmarks from every period in the restored and is home to a museum and many
citys history, from the 20th-century Woolworth shops and restaurants. The Brooklyn Bridge,
Building to 19th-century City Hall and once the largest suspension bridge in the
18th-century St. Pauls Chapel, New Yorks world, lies to the north.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Churches
1 South Street Seaport e St. Pauls Chapel
2 Schermerhorn Row Parks and Squares
3 Brooklyn Bridge pp8891
q City Hall Park and Park Row
4 Criminal Courts Building
5 New York County Courthouse
6 United States Courthouse W
HI
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7 Municipal Building
FR
8 Surrogates Court, Hall of Records AN
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Brooklyn Bridge, the worlds rst steel suspension bridge For keys to symbols see back flap
84  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: South Street Seaport

Part commercial and part historical, the
development of South Street Seaport has
transformed the former heart of the19th-
century port of New York, which had long
been neglected, into a lively and pleasant
part of the city. Tall ships are moored here,
and shops, restaurants, and cafs abound.
The South Street Seaport Museum, currently
closed due to Hurricane Sandy, tells the story
of the citys maritime past through craft 1. South Street Seaport
Once full of sailors and sailing ships, the
demonstrations, ship tours, and river cruises. seaport is now a lively complex of shops,
restaurants, and museums.

The Titanic Memorial is

a lighthouse built in 1913

BE
in memory of those who

EK
died on the Titanic. It now

M
AN
stands on Fulton Street.
Cannons Walk is a 19th- and

ST
20th-century block of buildings, ET
RE

RE
with an outdoor caf, shops, To Fulton St. subway (4 blocks) ST

ET
and a very lively marketplace. ER
AT
W

2 Schermerhorn Row
FU

T
Built as counting houses N
LT

O
in 1811, the Row contains R
T F
O

the South Street Seaport E

N

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Museum (closed due R
ST

T
to Hurricane Sandy), S
RE

as well as T
ET

N
shops and O
R
restaurants. F
H
T
U
O
S

The Boat-Building Shop

lets you watch as skilled
craftspeople build and
restore small wooden vessels.
P 15
IE
R

At the Maritime Crafts

Center, woodcarvers and The Pilothouse was originally from a steam
painters can be seen at tugboat built in 1923 by New York Central.
work on models, ship The Seaports admission and information
carvings, and figureheads. center is to be found here.
 SEAPORT AND THE CIVIC CENTER  85

The Consolidated Edison SOHO &

TRIBECA
electrical substation, built
in 1975, has an illusionistic LOWER
mural of the Brooklyn Bridge SEAPORT &
THE CIVIC
EAST SIDE,
CHINATOWN
by Richard Haas on one side CENTER & LITTLE ITALY

to help it blend in with its

historic neighbors. LOWER
MANHATTAN
er
Riv
st
Ea

Locator Map
See Manhattan Map pp1617

Key
Suggested route

0 meters 100
P
E
C

0 yards 100
K
S
L
IP

T
E
E
R
T
S

T
E
E
R
T
S
Meyers Hotel,
built in 1873,
became a
hotel in 1881. 3. Brooklyn Bridge
Now a caf, it An engineering wonder when it was built
retains a feel of in 1883, the bridge is still remarkable. From
days gone by when the pedestrian walkway there are fine views
markswoman Annie of the city and the bridge itself.
Oakley stayed here.

Pier 17 is
currently undergoing
extensive renovations,
which are due to be
completed in 2015.
When open, there are
great views from the
piers top floor of the
Brooklyn Bridge and
P 16
IE

historic ships moored

R

in the harbor.

The schooner Pioneer is used

for river cruises from the
Seaport. The 1908 Ambrose
lightship, which guided ships
into port, is also moored here.
86  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
The Ambrose lightship at a South Street Seaport pier on the East River
1 South Street
Seaport
Fulton St. Map 2 E2. Tel (212) SEA-
PORT. q Fulton St. Open AprOct:
10am9pm MonSat, 11am8pm
Sun; NovMar: 10am7pm MonFri,
11am6pm Sun. 7 8 Concerts. 0
= South Street Seaport Museum:
12 Fulton St. Tel (212) 748-8600.
Closed expected to reopen in 2014.
& 7 8 Lectures, exhibits, films. 0
= seany.org
The heart of New Yorks
19th-century seaport has been
given an imaginative new lease
on life. In addition to several
stores and restaurants, visitors
will find seafaring craft, historic
buildings, and museums,
along with spectacular views
of Brooklyn Bridge and the
East River from the cobble-
stone streets. Historic ships
berthed here range from the
little tugboat W.O. Decker to the
great four-masted sailing ship
Peking. Mini-trips on the
schooner Pioneer are a great
way to see the river.
The Museum covers 12 blocks
of what was once Americas
leading port. Not only is it home
to the largest fleet of privately
Restored buildings on Schermerhorn Row
maintained historic vessels in
the US, but there are also
artifacts, artworks, and docu-
ments from the 19th and early
20th century. The museum is
currently closed due to damage
caused by Hurricane Sandy.
The New York City Police
Museum (see p78) chronicles
the history of law enforcement.
Exhibits include weapons,
the art of fingerprinting
and forensics, and the arrest
records of famous criminals.
Fulton Fish Market, a popular
attraction at Seaport for more
than 150 years, moved to the
Bronx in 2006.
2 Schermerhorn
Row
Fulton and South sts. Map 2 D3.
q Fulton St.
This is Seaports architectural
showpiece. Constructed in 1811
by shipowner and chandler Peter
Schermerhorn on land reclaimed
from the river, the buildings were
originally warehouses and
counting-houses. With the
opening of the Brooklyn Ferry
terminus in 1814 and of
Fulton Market in 1822,
the block became
desirable property.
The Row has been
restored as part of
the South Street
development, and
it now houses
museum galleries,
as well as shops,
and restaurants.
3 Brooklyn Bridge
See pp8891.
4 Criminal Courts
Building
100 Centre St. Map 4 F5. q Canal St.
Open 9am5pm MonFri.
Closed public hols. 7
This 1939 building is Art
Moderne in style, with towers
reminiscent of a Babylonian
temple. The three-story-high
entrance is set back in a court,
behind two huge, square, free-
standing granite columns an
intimidating sight for the
accused. The building also
houses the Manhattan
Detention Center for Men,
which was formerly across the
street in a building known as
The Tombs because of its
Egyptian-style architecture. The
nickname has stuck, although
the original is long gone. An
aerial walkway, or bridge of
sighs, links the courts with the
correctional facility across
Centre Street.
The building also houses the
night courts, where cases are
generally heard from 5pm to
1am on weekdays.
Entrance to the Criminal Courts Building
5 New York County
Courthouse
60 Centre St. Map 2 D1.
q Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall.
Open 9am5pm MonFri.
Closed public hols. 7
Built to replace the Tweed
Courthouse (see p92), this
county supreme courthouse
was completed in 1926. The
fluted Corinthian portico at
 SEAPORT AND THE CIVIC CENTER  87

the top of a wide staircase is the base. The bronzework on

main feature of the hexagonal
building. The austere exterior is
offset by a circular-columned
interior rotunda featuring Tiffany
lighting fixtures and a series of
rich marble and ceiling murals
by Attilio Pusterla on themes of
law and justice. Six wings radiate
from the rotunda, each housing
a single court and its facilities.
The courtroom drama Twelve
Angry Men, starring Henry
Fonda, was filmed here.
the doors is handsome, but
the interior lacks the colorful
decoration Gilbert had outlined
in his sketchbooks. Aerial
walkways link the building
with its Police Plaza Annex.
7 Municipal
Building
1 Centre St. Map 1 C1. q Brooklyn
Bridge-City Hall. 7

The Municipal Building,

New York County Courthouse
6 United States
Courthouse
40 Centre St. Map 2 D1. q Brooklyn
Bridge-City Hall. Open 9am5pm
MonFri. Closed public hols. 7
This courthouse was the last
project undertaken by noted
architect Cass Gilbert, designer
of the Woolworth Building (see
p93). Begun in 1933, the year
before his death, it was finished
by his son. The 31-story
structure is a pyramid-topped
tower set on a classical temple
constructed in 1914,
dominates the Civic Center
and straddles Chambers
Street. It was McKim, Mead
& Whites first skyscraper
and houses government
offices and a marriage
chapel. The exterior, in
harmony with City Hall,
has no excess detail to
detract from the earlier building.
The most notable feature is
the top, a fantasy of towers
capped by Adolph Wienmans
statue Civic Fame.
A railway passage (no longer
in use) through the base, and
the plaza joining the Municipal
Building to the entrance of
the IRT subway station, were
built as concessions to modern
transportation needs. The
building has had a far-reaching
influence on architectural style;
the main building at Moscow
University is said to have been
modeled on its design.
8 Surrogates Court,
Hall of Records
31 Chambers St. Map 1 C1.
q City Hall. Open 9am5pm
MonFri. Closed public hols. 7 8
Municipal Building
Martiny also made the
representations of New York
in its infancy and New York
in revolutionary times at the
Chambers Street entrance.
The Paris Opra Garnier
was the inspiration for the twin
marble stairways and painted
ceiling of the dazzling central
hall. The ceiling mosaic by
William de Leftwich Dodge
features the signs of the zodiac
and symbols of record keeping.
The Hall of Records holds
public records dating back to
1664. A permanent exhibition,
Windows on the Archives,
features historical papers,
drawings, letters, and photo-
graphs illustrating what life
was like in New York from
1626 to the present.

A Beaux Arts triumph, the original

United States Courthouse
Hall of Records was begun in
1899 and completed in 1911.
The elaborate columned facade
is of white Maine granite, with a
high mansard roof. The figures
by Henry K. Bush-Brown in the
roof area represent lifes stages
from childhood to old age; the
statues by Philip Martiny over the
colonnade are of notable New
Yorkers such as Peter Stuyvesant. Surrogates Court
88  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

3 Brooklyn Bridge
Completed in 1883, the Brooklyn Bridge was the largest
suspension bridge and the first to be constructed of steel.
Engineer John A. Roebling conceived of a bridge spanning the
East River while ice-bound on a ferry to Brooklyn. The bridge
took 16 years to build, required 600 workers, and claimed over
20 lives, including Roeblings. Most died of caisson disease (known
as the bends) after coming up from the underwater excavation Souvenir medal cast for
chambers. When finished, the bridge linked Manhattan and the opening of the bridge
Brooklyn, then two
separate cities.
Brooklyn Bridge
From making the wire to
sinking the supports, the
bridge was built using
new techniques.

Anchorage Caisson
The ends of the bridges The towers rose up above
four steel cables are caissons, each the size of
fastened to a series of four tennis courts, which
anchor bars held in place provided a dry area for
by anchor plates. These underwater excavation. As
are held down by giant work went on, they sank
granite vaults up to three deeper beneath the river.
stories high. Their vast
interiors, once used for
storage, are now used for Shaft
summer art displays.

Anchor Plates
Each of the four cast-iron
Granite vault
anchor plates holds one
cable. The masonry was built up around
Cable to tower them after they were placed in position.

Anchor bar
Anchor plates

Anchor plate Central span is 1,595 ft (486 m) long

Vault Vault

Roadway from anchorage to anchorage is 3,579 ft (1,091 m)

 B R O O K LY N B R I D G E  89

First Crossing VISITORS CHECKLIST

Master mechanic E.F. Farrington in
1876 was the first to cross the river
on the bridge-in-progress, using a
steam-driven traveler rope. His
journey took 22 minutes.
Steel Cable Wire
Each cable contains 3,515 miles
(5,657 km) of wire, galvanized
with zinc for protection from the
wind, rain, and snow.
Practical Information
Map 2 D2. 7
Transport
q J, Z to Chambers St; 4 5, 6
to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall
(Manhattan side); A, C to High St
(Brooklyn side). @ M9, M15,
M22, M103.

Brooklyn
Tower (1875)
Two Gothic double
arches, each 271 ft
(83 m) high, one in
Brooklyn, the other
in Manhattan, were
meant to be the
portals of the cities.

John A. Roebling
The German-born Roebling
designed the bridge. In 1869,
just before construction started,
his foot was crushed between
an incoming ferry and the ferry
slip. He died three weeks later.
His son, Washington Roebling,
finished the bridge, but in 1872
he was taken from a caisson
suffering from the bends and
became partly paralyzed. His
Inside the Caisson wife, under his tutelage, then
Immigrant workers broke up rocks took over.
in the riverbed.
90  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Making the Cables Cable Wrapping

Wire was wound off the
drum and around the
Thickness of steel wire (actual size) End of cable to form a tight
wire final wrapping.

How the Cables Were Made

Each of the four main cables has 19 strands,
each made of 278 steel wires. The wires
were not twisted, but laid parallel.

Iron clamp

The 19 strands of a
main cable A massive iron clamp
compressed all the strands
into an even cylinder once
they had been positioned.
The strands were laid in order: after
the bottom 12 strands were laid, the
center strands were bound together. Bolt

Bustling Bridge
This 1883 view from
the Manhattan side
shows the original two
outer lanes for horse-
drawn carriages, two
middle lanes for cable
1983 Centennial Fireworks over the Brooklyn Bridge cars, and the elevated
Celebrating the bridges 100th year, this display was awesome. center walkway.

Panic of May 30, 1883

After a woman tripped on the bridge, panic
broke out. Of the estimated 20,000 people
on the bridge, 12 were crushed to death.
 B R O O K LY N B R I D G E  91

Holding the Cables

Saddle plates anchor the
cables at the top of each
of the two towers.

Cable

Diagonal stays

Suspender
Nearing Completion (1883) wires
Vertical suspender wires lashed
to diagonal stays hold the floor
beams in place.

Floor Beams
The steel floor beams weigh 4 tons each.

Odlums Jump
Robert Odlum was
the first to jump off the
bridge, on a bet, in May
1885. He later died from
internal bleeding.

Elevated Walkway
Poet Walt Whitman said that the view
from the walkway 18 ft (5.5 m) above
the road was the best, most effective
medicine my soul has yet partaken.
92  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
9 Old New York
County Courthouse
52 Chambers St. Map 1 C1.
q Chambers St-City Hall. 8
included in City Hall tour.
This building is best known
for the scandal it caused.
It is nicknamed the Tweed
Courthouse for the political
boss who spent 20 times the
budget for the building and
pocketed $9 million of the total
$14 million cost. Boss Tweed
even bought a marble quarry
and sold materials to the city
at huge profit. Public outrage
eventually led to his downfall
in 1871 ironically, he was tried
in his own courthouse and died
in a New York jail (see p29).
After an $85 million
restoration, including the
85-ft (26-m) rotunda and
the grand staircase, this vibrant
19th-century landmark became
the home of the Department
of Education.
City Halls magnicent early
19th-century facade
0 City Hall
City Hall Park. Map 1 C1. Tel 311.
q Brooklyn Br-City Hall Park Pl.
Open for prearranged tours only. 7
8 (212) 788-2656.
City Hall has been the seat of the
New York city government since
1812, and is one of the finest
examples of early 19th-century
American architecture. A stately
Federal-style building (with
some influences from the
French Renaissance), it was
designed by John McComb, Jr.,
P.T. Barnums museum blazes in 1865 as crowds watch from City Hall Park
the first prominent American- q City Hall Park
born architect, and the French
migr Joseph Mangin. and Park Row
Marble cladding was not used Map 1 C2.
for the buildings rear, since it q Brooklyn Br-City Hall Park Pl.
was not expected that the city
would ever develop farther to This was New Yorks village
the north. In 1954, a program of green 250 years ago, complete
restoration remedied this and with stocks and whipping
the interior was refurbished. post. It was the scene of pre-
Mangin is usually given credit Revolution protests against
for designing the exterior, and English rule, and there is a
McComb for the beautiful memorial to the Liberty Poles
interior with its fine domed (symbols of revolt) on City Halls
rotunda encircled by 10 west lawn. The Declaration of
columns. The space beneath it Independence was read to
opens onto an elegant marble George Washington and his
stairway, leading to the splendid troops here on July 9, 1776.
second-floor City Council Later, Phineas T. Barnums
chambers and the Governors American Museum at the parks
Room, which houses a portrait southern tip drew crowds from
gallery of early New York leaders. 1842 until it burned down in
This magnificent entrance has 1865. The Park Row
welcomed rulers and heroes building was the site of
for nearly 200 years. In 1865 the Park Theater. From
Abraham Lincolns body lay 1798 to 1848, the best
in state in this hall. actors of the day,
Stand on the steps such as Edmund
and look to your right Kean and Fanny
to see a statue of Kemble, per-
Nathan Hale, a formed there.
US soldier Park Row runs
hanged by along the east
the British side of City
as a spy in Hall Park.
September Once called
1776 during the Newspaper
Revolutionary War. His Row, it was
last words My only lined with the
regret is that I have not lofty offices of the
more lives than one to Sun, World, Tribune,
offer in the service of my and other papers.
country won him a
permanent place in the Statue of Benjamin
history books and hearts Franklin in Printing
of America. House Square

Printing House Square has a
statue of Benjamin Franklin with
his Pennsylvania Gazette.
City Hall Park is a green space,
used by those working nearby as
a peaceful place to sit and relax.
Bas-relief caricature of architect Gilbert in
the Woolworth lobby
w Woolworth
Building
233 Broadway. Map 1 C2. Closed to
the public. q City Hall Park Pl.
In 1879, salesclerk Frank W.
Woolworth opened a new kind
of store, where shoppers could
see and touch the goods, and
everything cost five cents. The
chain of stores that followed
made him a fortune and
changed retailing forever.
The 1913 Gothic headquarters
of his empire was New Yorks
tallest building until 1930. It set
the standard for the great sky-
scrapers. Architect Cass Gilberts
A sea sprite above the door of the AT&T (American Telephone and Telegraph) Building
SEAPORT AND THE CIVIC CENTER  93
soaring two-tiered design,
adorned with gargoyles of bats
and other wildlife, is topped with
a pyramid roof, flying buttresses,
pinnacles, and four small towers.
The marble interior is rich with
filigree, sculptured reliefs, and
painted decoration, and has a
high glass-tile mosaic ceiling
that almost seems to glow.
The lobby is one of the citys
treasures. Gilbert showed his
sense of humor here, in bas-
relief caricatures of the
founder counting out his
fortune in nickels and
dimes; of the real-estate The Georgian interior of St. Pauls Chapel
broker closing a deal; and
of Cass Gilbert himself George Washington prayed
cradling a large model of has been preserved. In the
the building. Paid for with churchyard, the Actors
$13.5 million in cash, the Monument commemorates
building has never had a George F. Cooke, who played
mortgage. Woolworths many great roles at the Park
went out of business in Theater; he drank himself to
1997. The building is now death at the Shakespeare
owned by the Witkoff Group. Tavern on Fulton Street. The
chapels Unwavering Spirit
exhibition chronicles the
e St. Pauls Chapel volunteer efforts after
September 11.
209211 Broadway. Map 1 C2. Tel
(212) 233-4164. q Fulton St. Open
10am6pm MonFri, 10am4pm Sat,
7am9pm Sun. Closed most public
r AT&T Building
hols. 5 12:30pm Wed; 8am, 10am 195 Broadway. Map 1 C2.
Sun. 8 by appt. Concerts 1pm Mon. q Broadway-Nassau Fulton St.
saintpaulschapel.org Open office hours.
Miraculously untouched when This former headquarters was
the World Trade Center towers designed by Welles Bosworth
collapsed in 2001, St. Pauls is from 1915 to 1922. The facade
Manhattans only extant church is said to have more columns
built before the Revolutionary than any other building in the
War. It is a Georgian gem. world, and the interior of the
The colorful interior, lit by building is a forest of marble
Water ford chandeliers, is the pillars. The whole edifice looks
setting for free concerts. The like a gigantic square-topped
pew where newly inaugurated layer cake.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  95

LOWER EAST SIDE,

CHINATOWN & LITTLE ITALY
Nowhere does the strong ethnic flavor of East Side a neighborhood of historic,
New York come through more tangibly than low-rise buildings is steadily becoming
in Lower Manhattan, where immigrants gentrified, but the old flavor remains. The area
began to settle in the late 19th century. brims with restaurants, bars, and trendy stores,
Here Italians, Chinese, and Jews established but still offers some of the citys greatest
distinct neighborhoods, preserving their bargains. Chinatown and Little Italy, whose
languages, customs, foods, and religions borders blend into one another, are two of
in the midst of a strange land. The Lower Manhattans most colorful neighborhoods.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Shops and Markets Restaurants see pp29297
1 Home Savings of America t The Pickle Guys 1 Beauty & Essex
2 Police Headquarters Building u Economy Candy 2 Congee Village
3 Little Italy p Essex Street Market 3 Freemans
4 Chinatown 4 inoteca
Churches and Synagogues
8 Orchard Street 5 Joes Shanghai
6 Eldridge Street Synagogue
0 Delancey Street 6 Katzs Delicatessen
9 Bialystoker Synagogue
q East Houston Street 7 Lombardis
e Old St. Patricks Cathedral
w Puck Building 8 Il Palazzo
i Angel Orensanz Center
r Engine Company No. 31 9 Pho Pasteur
10 Public
Parks and Squares
11 Sammys Roumanian
5 Columbus Park
12 Stanton Social
Museums and Galleries
T

EA
ES

ST
HO
TT

7 Lower East Side UST

YE

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FA

Tenement Museum
EET

ST
LA

ST

PR Second Ave 0 yards 500

ET

y New Museum of
STR

IN
STRE

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BER

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MUL

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See also Street Finder maps 4, 5

Striking facade of the New Museum of Contemporary Art For keys to symbols see back flap
96  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: Little Italy and Chinatown

New Yorks largest and most colorful ethnic neighborhood is Chinatown, which
is growing so rapidly that it is overrunning nearby Little Italy as well as the Lower
East Side. Streets here teem with grocery stores, gift shops and hundreds of
Chinese restaurants; even the plainest offer good food. What is left of Little Italy

T
can be found at Mulberry and Grand streets, where old-world flavor abounds.

EE
R
ST
TE
ET
The market stalls

Y
FA
on Canal Street
GR

LA
have a wide range AN
of bargains in new D
and used clothes

T
and fresh produce.

EE
R
ST
R
TE

ET
EN

RE
C

ST
Y ER
BA
Canal Street
subway
(lines R, W, N, Q, 6)
C
A
N
A
L
The Eastern States S
T
Buddhist Temple R
4. Chinatown E
E
Home to a thriving and still expanding at 64b Mott Street T
ET

community of Chinese immigrants, contains over 100

RE

this area is famous for its restaurants and golden Buddhas.

ST

hectic street life. The area truly comes

Y
RR

alive around the Chinese New Year in

BE

January or February.
UL
M

BA
YA
RD
ST
RE
The Wall of ET
Democracy on
Bayard Street is
covered with news-
PE
papers and posters LL
describing the ST
RE
ET
situation in China.

Bloody Angle, where

Doyers Street turns
sharply, was the
gruesome site of
5 Columbus Park many gangland Chatham Square has
Once a slum, this park now fills ambushes during a memorial to Chinese-
with residents playing mahjong. the 1920s. American war dead.
 LO W E R E A S T S I D E , C H I N AT O W N , A N D L I T T L E I TA LY  97

2 Police EAST VILLAGE

Headquarters Building SOHO &
TRIBECA
The dome of this Baroque
civic building towers over the LOWER
EAST SIDE,
City Hall area. In 1973, the CHINATOWN
& LITTLE ITALY
police moved out; 10 years
later, the building was turned East Side
into apartments. SEAPORT &
THE CIVIC
CENTER
East Rive r

Locator Map
See Manhattan Map pp1617

ST
RE
ET
3. Little Italy
The scents of Italy still waft from the
ET

restaurants and bakeries of this

RE

area, once home to thousands

ST

of immigrants.
TT
MO

H
ES
TE Umbertos Clam House,
R known as the place where
ST Mafia boss Joey Gallo was shot
RE
ET in 1972, once occupied this
location on Mulberry Street.

1 Home Savings
of America
Y

ET

Stanford White
ER

RE

designed this
W
BO

in1894 for the

ST

old Bowery
IE

Savings Bank.
ST
RY
CH

ET
RE
ST
E
G
D
RI
D
EL

Key
Suggested route
Confucius Plaza is 6. Eldridge Street Synagogue
marked by sculptor Liu 0 meters 100 Built in 1887, this was the first
Shihs monument to the large temple built in the US by
0 yards 100
Oriental philosopher. European Jews.
98  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
1 Home Savings
of America
130 Bowery. Map 4 F4.
q Grand St, Bowery.
Imposing inside and
out, this Classical Revival
building was built for
the Bowery Savings
Bank in 1894. Architect
Stanford White designed Detail from
the ornamented lime- Home Savings of
stone facade to wrap America building
around the rival
Butchers and Drovers Bank,
which refused to sell the corner
plot. The interior is decorated
with marble pillars and a ceiling
scattered with gilded rosettes.
By the mid-20th century,
the bank was a contrast to the
Bowery with its vagrants and
flophouses. It is now the site
of opulent Capitale, and open
only for private functions.
2 Police
Headquarters
Building
240 Centre St. Map 4 F4. q Canal St.
Closed to the public.
Completed in 1909, this was a
fitting home for the citys new
professional police force. The
main portico and end pavilions
have Corinthian columns and
the dome dominates the sky-
line. However, lack of space
meant the headquarters had
to fit into a wedge-shaped
site in the midst of Little Italy.
For nearly three-quarters of
a century, this was where New
Stonework gures adorning the Police Headquarters Building
Yorks finest came to work.
During Prohibition, Grand Street
from here to the Bowery was
known as Bootleggers Row,
and alcohol was easily
obtained, except when
a police raid was due.
The liquor merchants
paid handsomely for
a tip-off from inside
police headquarters.
The police moved
to different head-
quarters in 1973, and
in 1985 the building
was converted into a luxury
cooperative apartment project.
A street scene in Little Italy
3 Little Italy
Streets around Mulberry St. Map 4 F4.
q Canal St. littleitalynyc.com
The southern Italians who came
to New York in the late 19th
century found themselves living
in the squalor of dumbbell
apartments. These were built so
close together that sunlight never
reached the lower windows or
backyards. With over 40,000
people living in 17 small,
unsanitary blocks, diseases such
as tuberculosis were rife.
Despite the privations of
life on the Lower East Side,
the community that grew up
around Mulberry Street was
lively with the colors, flavors,
and atmosphere of Italy. These
have lingered on, though the
Italian population has dwindled
to 5,000 and Chinatown has
encroached on the traditional
Little Italy.
The most exciting time
to visit is during the Feast
of San Gennaro around
September 19 (see p54). For
nine days Mulberry Street is
renamed Via San Gennaro. On
the saints day, his shrine and
relics are paraded through the
streets. Throughout the feast
there is music, dancing,
and sideshows, and
stalls selling Italian food
and drink, as well as
other ethnic cuisines.
Many of Little Italys
restaurants offer simple,
rustic food served in
friendly surroundings
at reasonable prices.
NoLIta, North of Little
Italy, is filled with
boutiques, shops, and cafs.
The fashionable flock here
for the coolest small labels.
4 Chinatown
Streets around Mott St. Map 4 F5.
q Canal St. Eastern States Buddhist
Temple 64b Mott St. Open 9am6pm
daily. explorechinatown.com
The Chinatown of the early
20th century was primarily a
male community, made up of
immigrants who had first gone
to California. Wages were sent
home to their families in China,
who were prevented from
joining them by US immigration
laws. The men relaxed by
gambling at mahjong. The
community remained isolated
from the rest of the city, financed
and controlled by its own secret
organizations, the Tongs.
Some of the Tongs were
simply family associations
who provided loans. Others,
such as the On Leong and the
Hip Sing, who were at war
with one another, were criminal
fraternities. Tiny, crooked Doyers
Street was called Bloody Angle;
enemies were lured there and
 LO W E R E A S T S I D E , C H I N AT O W N , A N D L I T T L E I TA LY
A Chinese grocer tending his shop on Canal Street
set upon by gang members
waiting around the bend.
A truce between the Tongs
in 1933 brought peace to the
area. By 1940 Chinatown was
home to many middle-class
families. Immigrants and
businesses from Hong Kong
also brought postwar prosperity
to the community. Today
more than 80,000 Chinese-
Americans live here.
Many visit the neighborhood
to sample the cuisine, but there is
more to do here than eat. There
are galleries, antiques and curio
shops, and Asian festivals (see
p55). To glimpse another side
of Chinatown, step into the
incense-scented Eastern States
Window, Eldridge Street Synagogue
Buddhist Temple at 64b Mott
Street, where offerings are piled
up and over 100 golden Buddhas
gleam in the candlelight.
5 Columbus Park
Map 4 F5. q Canal St.
The tranquillity of Columbus
Park today could not be further
removed from the scene near
this site in the early 1800s. The
area, known as Mulberry Bend,
was a red-light district, part of
the infamous Five Points slum.
Gangs with names like the
Dead Rabbits and the Plug
Uglies roamed the streets.
A murder a day was common-
place; even the police were
afraid to pass through. Partly
as a result of the writings of
reformer Jacob Riis, the slum
was taken down in 1892.
The park is now the only open
space in Chinatown.
6 Eldridge Street
Synagogue
12 Eldridge St. Map 5 A5. Tel (212)
219-0888. q East Broadway. Open
10am5pm SunThu, 10am3pm Fri.
& ^ 8 Every half-hour from 10am
until 3pm. = eldridgestreet.org
When this house of worship
was built by the Orthodox
Ashkenazi from Eastern
Europe in 1887, it was the
most flamboyant temple in
the neighborhood. But many
immigrant Jews saw the Lower
East Side as just the beginning
 99
of a new life, and later moved
out of this massive synagogue.
In the 1930s, the huge
sanctuary, rich with stained
glass, brass chandeliers,
marbleized wood paneling,
and fine carving, was closed.
Much later a group of citizens
raised funds for preservation,
and the main sanctuary was
reopened in 2007. The
synagogue has become
a vibrant cultural center,
with concerts and other
special programs.
Even after years of neglect,
the facade, with touches of
Romanesque, Gothic, and
Moorish designs, is impressive.
Inside, the Italian hand-carved
ark and sculpted wooden
balcony show why this building
was the pride of the area.
Street vendors pushcart (1890s), Lower
East Side Tenement Museum
7 Lower East Side
Tenement Museum
108 Orchard St. Map 5 A4. Tel (212)
431-0233. q Delancey, Grand St.
Open 10am6pm daily. 8
compulsory (book ahead). First tour:
10:30am; last tour: 5pm. Closed Jan 1,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & ^
Lectures, films, videos. = (daily).
tenement.org
The interior of this building
was restored to re-create
apartments as they appeared
in the late 1870s, in 1916, 1918,
and 1935. There were no
regulations on tenement living
conditions until 1879. Many
rooms had no windows, and
indoor plumbing was rare.
The rooms give a sense of
the cramped and deplorable
conditions in which so
many lived. The program
includes the exhibit Piecing
It Together, about the areas
garment history. The museum
also offers superb walking tours.
100  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

8 Orchard Street
Map 5 A3. q Delancey, Grand St.
See Shopping p312.
lowereastsideny.com

Jewish immigrants founded the

New York garment industry on
this street, named for the
orchards that once stood here
on James De Lanceys Colonial
estate. For years the street was
filled with pushcarts loaded
with goods for sale. The
pushcarts are long gone, and
few of the shopkeepers are
Jewish, but the flavor remains.
On Sunday there is an outdoor
market, and shoppers fill the
street from Houston to Canal,
looking for clothing bargains.
Orchard Street is also at the
heart of the Lower East Sides
gentrification. Boutiques and
vintage stores nestle alongside
bars, clubs, restaurants, and the
boutique Blue Moon Hotel,
formerly a tenement.
Mural representing the zodiac sign Cancer
in Bialystoker Synagogue
Vegetable stall at an outdoor market on Canal Street
the tradition of Christian
churches instead of east.
The synagogue has a
beautiful interior, with lovely
stained-glass windows, a three-
story carved wooden ark, and
murals representing views of
the Holy Land and the signs of
the zodiac, including an
interesting oddity: a lobster
meant to represent Cancer,
the crab.
0 Delancey Street
Map 5 C4. q Essex St. See Shopping
p312. Bowery Ballroom 6 Delancey
St. Tel (212) 533-2111. See website
for shows schedule. 7
boweryballroom.com
Once a majestic boulevard,
Delancey Street these days is
little more than an obligatory
entrance to the Williamsburg
Bridge. The street was named
for James De Lancey, whose
farm was situated here in
Colonial days. During the
American Revolution (see
pp245), De Lancey remained
loyal to King George III. After
the war, he fled to England,
and his land was seized.
At 6 Delancey sits the Bowery
Ballroom, a three-story theater
completed only weeks before
the stock market crash of 1929
(see p33). Throughout the Great
Depression and World War II, the
building was deserted. Later, it
served as a retail space, housing
a haberdashery, a jewelers
boutique, and Treemark Shoes,
until its resurrection as a live-
music venue in the late 1990s.
Much of the theaters original
structure is still in place,
including such decorative
details as the brass rails,
the copper-vaulted plaster
ceiling of the mezzanine
bar, and the brass and iron
exterior metalwork.

9 Bialystoker
Synagogue
711 Willett St. Map 5 C4. Tel (212)
475-0165. q Essex St. u frequent
services. 8 prearranged only.
bialystoker.org

This 1826 Federal-style

building was originally the
Willett Street Methodist Church.
It was bought in 1905 by Jewish
immigrants from the Bialystok
province of Poland, who
converted it into a synagogue.
For this reason, it faces west in Live music at the Bowery Ballroom, a stylish 1920s theater
 LO W E R E A S T S I D E , C H I N AT O W N , A N D L I T T L E I TA LY
Trays of bagels at a traditional Jewish
bakery in East Houston Street
q East
Houston Street
East Houston St. Map 4 F3, 5A3.
q Second Ave.
The dividing line between
the Lower East Side and the
East Village, East Houston
between Forsyth and Ludlow
streets clearly demonstrates the
changing mix of old and new
in the area. Between Forsyth
and Eldridge streets is the Yonah
Schimmel Knish Bakery, a fixture
since 1890, still with its original
showcases. Further down the
block is the Sunshine
Theater, constructed
as a Dutch Church in the
1840s and later used as a
boxing arena and a Yiddish
vaudeville theater. Today it
shows art films.
While much of the Jewish
flavor of the Lower East Side
has disappeared, there are
two survivors farther along
East Houston. Russ and
Daughters is a culinary
landmark, a third-generation
family business that began on
a pushcart, around 1907. At this
location since 1920, the store
has seen its fortunes change
with the neighborhood. It is
famed for traditional smoked
fish and herring, and has an
impressive stock of caviar.
At the corner of Ludlow
Street is perhaps the best-
known survivor, the bustling
Katzs Delicatessen (see p293),
well past its 100th birthday
and still packing them in
for pastrami and corned
beef sandwiches.
w Puck Building
295309 Lafayette St. Map 4 F3.
q Lafayette. Open to the public
during business hours. Tel (212)
274-8900.
This block-square architectural
curiosity was built in 1885 by
Albert and Herman Wagner. It
is an adaptation of the German
Rundbogenstil, a mid-19th-
century style characterized
by horizontal bands of arched
windows and the skillful use of
molded red brick.
From 1887 to 1916 the
building housed the satirical
magazine Puck, and at the turn
of the century it was the largest
building in the world devoted
to lithography and publishing.
Today it is the site of some of
New Yorks most stylish parties
and artiest fashion-photography
shoots. The only connection
remaining to the mythical Puck
is the gold-leaf statue on the
corner of Mulberry and
Houston, and the smaller
version over the entrance
on Lafayette Street.
Statue of Puck on the northeast corner of
the Puck Building
 101
Facade of Old St. Patricks Cathedral, now a
parish church
e Old St. Patricks
Cathedral
263 Mulberry St. Map 4 F3.
Tel (212) 226-8075. q Prince St.
Open 8am12:30pm & 3:306pm
ThuTue. 5 9am & noon MonFri;
5:30pm Sat; 9:15am & 12:45pm Sun;
Spanish: 11:30am Sun.
oldsaintpatricks.com
The first St. Patricks was
begun in 1809, and it is one
of the oldest churches in the
city. When fire destroyed the
original in the 1860s, it was
rebuilt much as it is today. When
the archdiocese transferred
the see to the new St. Patricks
Cathedral uptown (see pp18081),
Old St. Patricks became the
local parish church, and it has
flourished despite a constantly
changing ethnic congregation.
Below the church are vaults
containing the remains
of, among others, one
of New Yorks most
famous families of
restaurateurs, the
Delmonicos. Pierre
Toussaint was also
buried here, but in 1990
his remains were moved from
the old graveyard beside the
church to a more prestigious
burial place in a crypt in the
new St. Patricks Cathedral.
Born a slave in Haiti in 1766,
Toussaint was brought to New
York, where he lived as a free
man and became a prosperous
wig-maker. He later devoted
himself to caring for the citys
poor, also tending cholera
victims and using his money
to build an orphanage. The
Vatican is now considering
the philanthropic Toussaint
for sainthood.
102  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
r Engine
Company No. 31
87 Lafayette St. Map 4 F5.
Tel (212) 966-4510. q Canal St.
Closed to the public.
In the 19th century, fire stations
were considered important
enough to merit a building
of architectural importance
and the Le Brun firm was the
acknowledged master of the
art. This 1895 station is one
of their best. The building
resembles a Loire chteau,
with its steep roof, dormers,
and towers, seeming almost
fairy-tale-like in this location.
The present-day tenant is
the Downtown Community
Television Center, which offers
courses and workshops to
members. However, the building
is no longer open to the public.
t The Pickle Guys
49 Essex St. Map 5 B4. Tel (212) 656-
9739. q Grand St. Open 9am6pm
SunThu, 9am4pm Fri.
pickleguys.com
The scent of pickles permeates
this little section of Essex Street,
just as it did in the early 1900s,
when Jewish pickle shops filled
the area. True to the old Eastern
European recipe, The Pickle
Guys store their pickles in
barrels filled with brine,
garlic, and spices; this mixture
preserves the pickles for months
on end. Pickle varieties include
full sour, three-quarters sour,
half sour, new, and hot. No
chemicals or preservatives
Entrance to The Pickle Guys store, with
traditional pickling barrels
Facade of Engine Company No. 31, in the style of a French chteau
are added and the shop
operates to strict Kosher rules.
The store also carries pickled
tomatoes, pickled celery, olives,
mushrooms, hot peppers, sun-
dried tomatoes, sweet kraut,
sauerkraut, and herring. It is
run like a family business, with
a friendly, chatty atmosphere,
which perpetuates the
neighborhoods traditions.
y New Museum of
Contemporary Art
235 Bowery St. Map 4 E3. Tel (212)
219-1222. q Spring St, Bowery.
Open 11am6pm WedSun (to 9pm
Thu). & free 79pm Thu. ^ 7 8
Lectures, readings, music. =
newmuseum.org
Marcia Tucker left her post as
the Whitney Museums Curator
of Painting and Sculpture in
1977 to found this museum. Her
aim was to exhibit the kind of
work she felt was missing from
more traditional museums.
She created one of New
Yorks most cutting-edge
exhibition spaces, which
includes an innovative
Media Lounge for digital
art, video installations,
and sound works.
The rotating collection
features a wide range
of art, from large-scale
photographs of 1960s
America to geometric
abstracts. The museum
takes an inclusive
approach, showcasing both
emerging and established
artists, including Mark Rothko
and Roy Lichtenstein.
The striking seven-story
building, designed by Tokyo-
based architects Sejima &
Nishizawa, is a notable addition
to this Manhattan street. It rises
like a sculptural stack of glowing
cubes and is the first art
museum to be built in down-
town Manhattan in over a
century. It has 60,000 sq ft
(5,574 sq m) of exhibition
space, a theater, store, caf,
and a rooftop terrace offering
stunning views of the city.
The densely packed shelves at
Economy Candy
u Economy Candy
108 Rivington St. Map 5 B3. Tel 1-800
352-4544. q Second AveHouston
St. Open 10am6pm Mon, 9am6pm
TueFri & Sun, 10am5pm Sat.
economycandy.com
A Lower East Side landmark
since 1937, this family-owned
candy store stocks hundreds
of varieties of candy, nuts, and
dried fruit. Lined with floor-to-
ceiling shelves packed with old-
fashioned dispensers, the store
 LO W E R E A S T S I D E , C H I N AT O W N , A N D L I T T L E I TA LY
is one of the few businesses
on Lower East Side that has
remained almost unchanged in
name and specialty throughout
the neighborhoods fluctuating
fortunes over 50 years.
This is due in no small part
to Jerry Cohens enterprise
in transforming his fathers
Noshers Paradise from a
penny candy store to a national
company. The shop carries
sweets and treats from all over
the world, as well as numerous
food items dipped in chocolate
and 21 colors of candy-covered
chocolate buttons.
Interior of the Angel Orensanz Center,
once a large synagogue
i Angel Orensanz
Center
172 Norfolk St. Map 5 B3. Tel (212)
529-7194. q Essex St, Delancey St.
Open 10am5pm MonFri and by
appt. 7 orensanz.org
Built in 1849, this cherry-red
Neo-Gothic structure was once
the oldest synagogue in New
York. With ceilings 54 ft (15 m)
high and seating for 1,500,
it was also the largest in the
United States at the time.
It was designed by the Berlin
architect Alexander Saelzer
in the tradition of the German
Reform movement, and
closely resembles Cologne
Cathedral and the
Friedrichwerdeschekirche
in the Mitte in Berlin.
After World War II and the
decline of Lower East Sides
Yiddish population, the
synagogue was one of many
to close. In 1986, the building
was acquired by the Spanish
sculptor Angel Orensanz, who
turned it into an art studio. It
now serves as a spiritual and
cultural center with a program
of artistic, musical, and
literary events.
o FusionArts
Museum
57 Stanton St. Map 5 A3. Tel (212)
995-5290. q Second Ave-Houston St.
Open noon6pm TueFri & Sun. 7
= fusionartsmuseum.org
With psychedelic metal
sculptures that give a foretaste
of the pieces displayed inside,
the entrance to this museum
is hard to miss. It is dedicated
to showing fusion art, defined
as art in which various artistic
disciplines, such as painting,
sculpture, photography, and
video, meld to form a distinct
genre in themselves. The
museums location gives it
access to an underground
art scene that uptown
contemporary art museums
often neglect, and it also
offers lesser-known artists the
opportunity to exhibit their
work in a reputable gallery.
Many New York City artists
who have been creating fusion
art on the Lower East Side for
more than two decades have
already shown their work in
group exhibitions here.
Cuts of meat on display at the indoor Essex Street Market
 103
Metal sculptures at the entrance of the
FusionArts Museum
p Essex Street
Market
120 Essex St. Map 5 B3. Tel (212) 312-
3603/388-0449. q Essex St, Delancey
St. Open 8am7pm MonSat,
10am6pm Sun. 0 =
essexstreetmarket.com
The market was created in
1938 by Mayor Fiorello H. La
Guardia to bring pushcart
vendors together and out of
the way of traffic, especially
police cars and fire trucks that
used the narrow streets.
Two dozen meat, cheese,
produce, and spice stalls fill
the market. One of the oldest
vendors is Jeffreys butcher
store, which has been at the
market since 1939. Also here are
the Essex Restaurant, which
servies Latin/Jewish fare, and
Cuchifritos, an art gallery
showing the work of the
neighborhoods artists.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  105

SOHO AND TRIBECA

Art and architecture are the twin lures shops, and then boutiques followed.
that have transformed these formerly Brunch and gallery-hopping in SoHo is
industrial districts. SoHo (south of Houston) now a favorite weekend outing. As rents
was threatened with demolition in the rose, many artists were priced out of SoHo
1960s until preservationists drew attention and moved to TriBeCa (Triangle Below
to the rare historic cast-iron architecture. Canal). Now, trendy TriBeCa has galleries,
The district was saved, and artists began to many restaurants, and the Tribeca Film
move into the loft spaces. Galleries, cafs, Festival in spring.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Restaurants see pp29297
1 Haughwout Building 1 Aquagrill 11 Kittichai
2 St. Nicholas Hotel 2 Balthazar 12 Locanda Verde
3 Greene Street 3 Boqueria 13 Megu
4 Singer Building 4 Bouley 14 Nobu
8 Harrison Street 5 Bubbys 15 Odeon
9 White Street 6 Dos Caminos 16 Petite Abeille
Museums and Galleries 7 The Dutch 17 Spring Street Natural
8 LEcole
5 Childrens Museum of the Arts
9 The Harrison
6 New York Earth Room
10 Hundred Acres
7 New York City Fire Museum 0 meters 500

0 yards 500

PIER 40 H U D S ON
R IVE R PA R K
STREET

WEST
HOUSTO
N
ST RE ET

STREET
River

STREET

W
VE)

Houston St
STREET

KING ES
STREET 1 T
TH A
STREET

HO
GT ON

US
ET
S (S IX

CH AR LTO N
TO
RE

STR EET
N
ST
WA SH IN

ET
WICH
WEST

PIER 34
RE

ST
VA R I C K

R IC A

VANDAM
ST

STREET RE
ET
ET
N
AME

RE
GREEN
Hudson

SPRING
I VA

PR
STREET Broadway-
ST
ON

IN
ET

C
LL

A Spring St C Lafayette St
RE
PS
SU

E
N

N
ET

B.D.F.M
AY
OM

C.E
ST

A SP
RE
HUDSO

L
ER

DO MIN ICK RI
TH

ST
ST

STR EET NG
THE

ST
ST

ST R Prince St
D

EE
OO

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E

RE N.R
A

NE

TT

T
W

ET
O

EE

ST
YE

WAT TS
R
BR

ST RE ET
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RE
GR

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FA

ET
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LA

SOHO
DESBR
M

WAT TS
ET
UE

OSSES
STREE ST RE ET
RE

PIER 29 T
AV E N

ST

BR
T

VESTRY OO
PIER 28
ES

STREET Canal St M
E Spring St
1
W

PIER 27
AY

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GR ST 6
ET

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ET

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STREET
STREET

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T ST
ST
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PIER 26 STREET C RE
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ST. JOHNs ET
LANE

N
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PARK A
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ET

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ST

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ST
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ER

RE
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STRE

HO
M

ET W
NORTH MO AR
E

ORE D
TT

ST SP
EN ST
WEST

ET

YE

FR AN KL IN W ST ARD
Canal St
FA

AL
RE

ST RE ET W KE
FINN HI N.Q.R
LA
N

R
H

TE
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HUDSO
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Franklin St Canal St
LE DT

1 ST 6
ST

AL LAN

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ET
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OA

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CH

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ET RE RE
CH

AD ET
AY

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DW

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Chambers St ET
1.2.3 ST
BR

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Chambers St
A.C

See also Street Finder map 4

Cast-iron facades in TriBeCa with Art Deco tower in the background For keys to symbols see back flap
106  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: SoHo

Cast-Iron Historic District
The largest concentration of cast-iron architecture in the
world (see p44) survives in the area between West Houston
and Canal streets. The heart of the district is Greene Street,
where 50 buildings erected between 1869 and 1895 are
found on five cobblestoned blocks. Most of their intricately
designed cast-iron facades are in the Neo-Classical Revival
style, with Corinthian columns and pediments. Mass-produced
West Broadway, as it passes
in a foundry, they were relatively inexpensive, and easy to through SoHo, combines
erect and maintain. Now they are rare works of industrial striking architecture with a
art, well suited to the present character of this district. string of art galleries, shoe
shops, designer boutiques,
and small restaurants.

7276 Greene Street,

the King of Greene
Street, is a splendid
Corinthian-columned
building. It was the
creation of Isaac F.
Duckworth, one of
the masters of cast-
iron design.

The Broken Kilometer, at 393 West Broadway, is an

installation by Walter De Maria (see p109). Its 500 brass
rods are arranged to play tricks with perspective. Laid
end to end, the rods would measure 1.5 miles (1 km).
Y
A
W

T
E
D

Performing Garage is a
E
A

tiny experimental theater

O

T
R

that pioneers the work of

B

T
E

avant-garde artists.
T

N
S

E
E

B
T

E
W

R
S

O
G

O
R

M
E

E
T

S
S

T
R
O

E
O

E
T
W

G
R
A
N
D
S
T
R
E
E
T

Canal
Street-Broadway
subway (2 blocks)
3. Greene Street 1517 Greene
Of all Greene Streets fine cast-iron 1014 Greene Street dates from 1869. Street is a late
architecture, one of the best is 2830, the Note the glass circles in the risers of the addition, dating from
Queen, which was built by Duckworth iron stoop, which allowed daylight to 1895, in a simple
in 1872 and has a tall mansard roof. reach the basement. Corinthian style.
 SOHO AND TRIBECA  107

GREENWICH

Riv er
VILLAGE
4. Singer Building EAST
VILLAGE

Hu dso n
This terra-cotta beauty was
SOHO &
built in 1904 for the famous TRIBECA
sewing machine company.
LOWER
EAST SIDE,
LOWER CHINATOWN
MANHATTAN & LITTLE ITALY
SEAPORT &
THE CIVIC
Richard Haas, the CENTER
prolific muralist, has
Locator Map
transformed a blank See Manhattan Map pp1617
wall into a convincing
cast-iron frontage.
Key
Suggested route

Prince Street subway

station (lines N, R)

Dean & DeLuca

P
R is one of the best
IN
C
E
gourmet food
S stores in New
T

T
E

R York. Its range

E

E
E
R

T includes a global
T
S

choice of coffee
R

beans (see p328).

E

Y
C

A
R

W
E

D
M

A
O

S
R

P
B

R
IN
T

G 101 Spring Street, with its

EE

S simple, geometric facade

T
R

R
ST

E and large windows, is a fine

E
T example of the style that
Y
SB

led to the skyscraper.

O

Spring Street
R
C

subway station

2 St. Nicholas Hotel

During the Civil War, this
former luxury hotel was
used as a headquarters
for the Union Army.

0 meters 100

0 yards 100 1 Haughwout Building

In 1857 this was an elegant store,
featuring the first Otis safety elevator.
108  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Haughwout Building facade
1 Haughwout
Building
488492 Broadway. Map 4 E4.
q Canal St, Spring St.
This cast-iron building was
erected in 1857 for the E.V.
Haughwout china and glassware
company, which once supplied
the White House. Beneath the
grime, the design is superb: rows
of windows are framed by arches
set on columns flanked by
taller columns. Mass-produced
sections repeat the pattern
over and over. The building
was the first to use a steam-
driven Otis safety elevator,
an innovation that made the
skyscraper a possibility.
2 St. Nicholas Hotel
521523 Broadway. Map 4 E4.
q Prince St, Spring St.
English parliamentarian W. E.
Baxter, visiting New York in 1854,
reported of the recently opened
St. Nicholas Hotel: Every carpet
is of velvet pile; chair covers and
curtains are made of silk or satin
damask and the embroidery
on the mosquito nettings itself
might be exhibited to royalty.
St. Nicholas Hotel in its heyday in the
mid-19th century
It is small wonder, then, that it galleries housed within to see
cost over $1 million to build the spacious interior lofts. At the
and with profits of over $50,000 corner of Greene and Prince
for that year it must have streets, the illusionistic muralist
seemed money well spent. Its Richard Haas has created an
glory was short-lived, however. eye-catching work, disguising
In the Civil War it served as a a plain brick sidewall as a cast-
Union Army headquarters. iron frontage. Look for the detail
Afterward, the better hotels of the little gray cat, which sits
followed the entertainment primly in an open window.
district uptown, and by the
mid-1870s the St. Nicholas
had closed. There is little left 4 Singer Building
on the ground floor to attest 561563 Broadway. Map 4 E3.
to its former opulence, but look q Prince St.
up to the remains of its once-
stunning marble facade. The little Singer Building
built by Ernest Flagg in 1904 is
the second and smaller Flagg
structure by this name, and
many critics think it superior
to the 41-story tower on lower
Broadway that was torn down
in 1967. The charmingly ornate
building is adorned with
wrought-iron balconies and
graceful arches painted in
striking dark green. The 12-story
facade of terra-cotta, glass, and
steel was advanced for its day,
a forerunner of the metal and
glass walls to come in the 1940s
and 1950s. The building was
Haas mural on Greene Street an office and warehouse for
the Singer sewing machine
3 Greene Street company, and the original
Map 4 E4. q Canal St. Singer name can be seen cast
in iron above the entrance to
This is the heart of SoHos the store on Prince Street.
Cast-Iron District. Along five
cobblestoned blocks are 50
cast-iron buildings dating
from 1869 to 1895. The block
between Broome and Spring
streets has 13 full cast-iron
facades and from 834 is
the longest row of cast-iron
buildings
anywhere.
Those at
7276 are
known as the
King of Greene
Street, but
2830, the
Queen, is
considered
to be the finest.
The architecture
is best appreciated
as a streetscape,
with row upon row
of columned facades. Early electric-powered Singer
Walk into any of the sewing machine

5Childrens
Museum of the Arts
103 Charlton St. Map 3 C4. Tel (212)
274-0986. q Houston St. @ M20,
M21. Open noon5pm Mon & Wed,
noon6pm Thu & Fri, 10am5pm Sat
& Sun. & 7 cmany.org
Founded in 1988, this innovative
museum aims to make the most
of childrens artistic potential by
providing plenty of hands-on
activities, sing-alongs,
workshops, and
performances. Children
aged 112 can busy
themselves with
paint, glue, paper,
and other messy
materials to create
their own drawings and
sculptures. For inspiration,
displays of work by local
artists are exhibited alongside
examples of childrens art from
around the world. Kids can play
around in the dressing-up room
and the ball pond, and the
museum also hosts a varied
program of events appealing
to children and families.
Brightly colored exhibition space at the
Childrens Museum of the Arts
6 New York
Earth Room
141 Wooster St. Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 989-5566. q Prince St.
Open noon3pm & 3:306pm Wed
Sun. Closed mid-Junmid-Sep. 7 ^
earthroom.org
Of the three Earth Rooms created
by conceptual artist Walter De
Maria, this is the only one still in
existence. Commissioned by the
Dia Art Foundation in 1977, the
interior earth sculpture consists
of 280,000 lb (127,000 kg) of
dirt piled 22 in (56 cm) deep in
SOHO AND TRIBECA
a 3,600-sq-ft (335-sq-m) room.
The Broken Kilometer, another
sculpture by De Maria, can be
seen at 393 West Broadway
(see p106). It is composed of 500
solid brass rods arranged in five
parallel rows.
1901 La France
horse-drawn steam
pumper in the City Fire Museum
7 New York City
Fire Museum
278 Spring St. Map 4 D4. Tel (212)
691-1303. q Spring St. Open
10am5pm daily. Closed public hols.
& 7 = nycfiremuseum.org
This museum is housed
in a Beaux Artsstyle 1904
firehouse. New York Citys
unsurpassed collection of
firefighting equipment and
memorabilia from the 18th
century to 1917 includes scale
models, bells, and hydrants.
Upstairs, fire engines are neatly
lined up for an 1890 parade.
An interactive fire simulation,
available for groups, gives
an insight into firefighting.
The museums first floor
features an exhibition on
9/11, filled with tributes.
8 Harrison Street
Map 4 D5. q Chambers St.
Surrounded by modern
high-rise blocks, this rare row
of eight beautifully restored
Federal town houses, with their
pitched roofs and distinctive
dormer windows, almost seems
like a stage set. The houses were
constructed in the late 1700s
and early 1800s. Two of the
buildings were designed by
John McComb, Jr., New Yorks
first major native-born architect,
 109
and were moved from
Washington Street, their original
site, for preservation purposes.
The houses had previously
been used as warehouses and
were about to be razed to the
ground, when, in 1969, the
Landmarks Preservation
Commission intervened to
secure the necessary funding
to enable them to be restored.
They are now privately owned.
On the other
side of the high-rise
complex is Washington
Market Park. This area
was formerly the site
of New York Citys
wholesale produce
center. The market
relocated to the Bronx
in the 1970s.
9 White Street
Map 4 E5. q Franklin St.
While not as fine and intricate
as some of the SoHo blocks,
this sampling of TriBeCa cast-
iron architecture shows a
considerably wide range
of styles. The house at No. 2
has carefully balanced Federal
features and a rare gambrel
roof, in contrast with the
mansard roof of No. 17. Numbers
8 to 10 White, designed by
Silesian-born Henry Fernbach,
in 1869, have impressive
Tuscan columns and arches,
with Neo-Renaissance shorter
upper stories to give an illusion
of height. In contrast, 38 White
is the home of neon artist
Rudi Sterns gallery, Let There
Be Neon.
Rudi Sterns Let There Be Neon gallery in
White Street
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  111

GREENWICH VILLAGE
New Yorkers call it the Village, and it began and the area has become mainstream and
as a country village, an escape for city expensive. Near Washington Square, it is
dwellers during the 1822 yellow fever dominated by New York University students.
epidemic. The random pattern of streets, Once cheaper, the East Village attracts a
reflecting early farm boundaries or streams, trendy crowd from all over the globe. The
makes it a natural enclave that has been a Meatpacking District, which still has a few
bohemian haven and home to many artists meatpackers, has become overwhelmed with
and writers. A popular gay district is here, smart boutiques and trendy restaurants.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Churches Restaurants see pp29297
1 St. Lukes Place q First Presbyterian Church 1 Babbo
2 75 Bedford Street w Church of the Ascension 2 Blue Hill
3 Grove Court t Judson Memorial Church 3 Blue Ribbon Bakery
4 Isaacs-Hendricks House Parks and Squares 4 Corner Bistro
5 Meatpacking District 5 Da Silvano
6 Sheridan Square
7 Jefferson Market Courthouse 6 Fatty Crab
y Washington Square
8 Patchin Place 7 Gotham Bar & Grill
0 Salmagundi Club 8 Jane
e Washington Mews 9 Kest
r New York University 10 The Little Owl
Museums and Galleries 11 Lupa
12 Minetta Tavern
9 Forbes Magazine Building
13 Moustache
14 One if by Land, Two if by Sea
15 Otto
16 Pearl Oyster Bar
See also Street Finder maps 3, 4 17 Spice Market
WE
ST
18 The Spotted Pig
PIER 54
WE
14
TH 19 The Standard Grill
ST
13 ST 20 Strip House
PIER 53 BLO OMF IELD ST TH

L IT
14th St- 21 Tertulia
12 TLE ST Eighth Ave
PIER 52 TH W
ST
RE
ET A.C.E.L 22 The Waverly Inn and Garden
STREET

23 Westville
River

GANSEVOORT ST JACKSON
ST

SQUARE
HORATIO STREET
14th St
UE
GREEN WICH

GR

1.2.3
EN
HUDSON

PIER 51 W
EEN

STREET
AV

JANE ES
T
H
STREET

TH

UT
WI

WEST 12TH ST
GH

Sixth Ave 14
SO
CH

PIER 50 TH
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B.D.F.L.M
EI

BETHUNE STREET STREET

AV
WAV

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SQUARE WE RE
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ERLY

ET
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13
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11 TH ST 12
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EN

PE RR Y
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McCARTHY ST ST
UE

EN

11
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SQUARE Union Sq
STREET

ST
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AV

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SI

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Christopher St- 10
D WAY

PIER 46
TH
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W ST
E

AC

ES
C H A RL 1 SQUARE ES
H

PL

T
FT

ST West 4th St- 9T

WAS HING TON

ST W
10 TH
TY

ES H
WEST

PIER 45 PH ER Washington Sq
FI

W ES T RI ST O T ST
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PIER 42 EET
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AS H
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PIER 40 SQUARE SO S
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CL AR KS H GT
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TH

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0 meters 500 ST
Broadway-
0 yards 500 Lafayette St
B.D.F.M

Entrance to a charming, old-fashioned house in Greenwich Village For keys to symbols see back flap
112  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: Greenwich Village

A stroll through historic Greenwich Village is a feast of
unexpected small pleasures charming row houses, hidden
alleys, and leafy courtyards. The often quirky architecture
suits the bohemian air of the Village. Many famous people,
particularly artists and writers, such as playwright Eugene
ONeill and actor Dustin Hoffman, have made their homes
in the houses and apartments that line these old-fashioned
narrow streets. By night, the Village really comes alive. Late-
night coffeehouses and cafs, experimental theaters and
music clubs, including some of the citys best jazz venues,
beckon you at every turn.
The Lucille Lortel Theater Christopher Street, popular with
is at No. 121 Christopher New Yorks gay community, is
Street; it opened in 1955 lined with all kinds of shops,
with The Threepenny Opera. bookstores, and bars.

W 4
TH
Twin Peaks at No. 102
Bedford Street began life

STR
in 1830 as an ordinary
house. It was rebuilt in

EET
1926 by architect Clifford
Daily to house artists,
writers, and actors.
Daily believed that
the quirky house
would help their EE T
R STR
creativity PHE
ISTO
flourish. CHR

ET
RE
ST
E
3 Grove Court OV
Six houses dating from GR
BL

18534 are set at the back

EE
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of a quiet leafy courtyard.

CK
DF

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OR
D

ST
UE

The building on the corner of

ST

RE

Bedford and Grove streets was ET

EN

used as the characters apartment RE

RE

ET

ST
AV

block in the TV sitcom Friends. BARROW

ET

H
NT

Christopher St subway
VE
SE

2 No. 75
MOR TON STREE T Bedford Street
Built in 1873 in an
alley, this is the citys
narrowest house.

E
ST LUKES PLAC To Houston
Street subway The Cherry Lane
(2 blocks) Theatre was founded
in 1924. Originally a
1. St. Lukes Place brewery, it was one of
This beautiful row of Italianate the first of the Off-
houses was built in the 1850s. Broadway theaters.
 GREENWICH VILLAGE  113

8 Patchin Place

Riv er
CHELSEA & THE
GARMENT DISTRICT
Built in 1848 to house

Hu ds on
waiters from the Brevoort GRAMERCY &
THE FLATIRON
Hotel, it was later home to GREENWICH
VILLAGE
DISTRICT

poet E. E. Cummings and

other famous writers of
the 1920s and 1930s.
SOHO & EAST
TRIBECA VILLAGE

Locator Map
See Manhattan Map pp1617

To W 14th
St subway
(3 blocks)
Key
GR
EE

T Suggested route
RY S
PER
NW
IC
H

E T
AV

STRE
0TH
W 1
EN
UE

UE
EN

7. Jefferson Market Courthouse

AV

The courthouse was built in 1877,

H

and has been voted the fifth

XT

most beautiful building in the US.

SI

It was converted into a public

library in 1967.
W
A
SH
IN
G
TO
N
P
LA
ST C
S E
NE
JO

0 meters 100

0 yards 100

To West 4th Street

subway (2 blocks)

The Northern
Dispensary began
offering free medical care to the poor in 1827.
Edgar Allan Poe was treated here for a cold in
1837. It is now a hostel for the disabled.
Gay Street attracted many aspiring artists,
writers, and musicians during the 1920s. It was
the setting for Ruth McKenneys novel My Sister
Eileen, and the film Carlitos Way.
114  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Row houses on St. Lukes Place, a street
with literary associations
1 St. Lukes Place
Map 3 C3. q Houston St.
Fifteen attractive row houses,
dating from the 1850s, line the
north side of this street. The
park opposite is named for a
previous resident of St. Lukes
Place, Mayor Jimmy Walker, the
popular dandy who ran the city
from 1926 until he was forced
to resign after a financial
scandal in 1932. In front
of the house at
No. 6 are the
tall lamps that
always identify a
mayors home
in New York. The
most recognizable
house on the block
is probably No. 10,
the exterior of the
Huxtable family home
in The Cosby Show
(although the series
places it in Brooklyn).
This is also the block
where Wait Until Dark
was filmed, starring
Audrey Hepburn as a
blind woman living
at No. 4. Theodore
Dreiser and the poet
Marianne Moore are
just two of the several
writers who have
lived here. Dreiser
wrote An American
Tragedy while living
at No. 16. One block
north, the corner of
Hudson and Morton
streets marked
Mayors the edge of the
lamp at Hudson River in
No. 6 the 18th century.
2 75 Bedford
Street
Map 3 C2. q Houston St. Closed to
the public. cherrylanetheatre.com
New Yorks narrowest home, just
9 ft (2.9 m) wide, was built in
1893 in a former passageway.
The poet Edna St. Vincent Millay
lived here briefly, followed by
the actor John Barrymore, and
later Cary Grant. The three-story
building, now renovated, is
marked by a plaque.
Just around the corner, at 38
Commerce Street, Miss Millay
founded the Cherry Lane
Theater in 1924 as a site for
avant-garde drama. It still
premieres new works. Its
biggest hit was the 1960s
musical Godspell.
3 Grove Court
Map 3 C2. q Christopher St/
Sheridan Sq.
An enterprising grocer named
Samuel Cocks built the six town
houses here, in an area formed
by a bend in the street. (The
bends in this part of the Village
originally marked divisions
between colonial properties.)
Cocks reckoned that having
residents in the empty passage
between 10 and 12 Grove Street
would help his business at No. 18.
But residential courts,
now highly prized, were not
considered respectable in 1854,
and the lowbrow residents
attracted to the area earned it
the nickname Mixed Ale Alley.
O. Henry later chose this block
as the setting for his 1902 work
The Last Leaf.
The mid-19th-century town houses at Grove Court
Isaacs-Hendricks House
4 Isaacs-Hendricks
House
77 Bedford St. Map 3 C2. q Houston
St. Closed to the public.
This is the oldest surviving
home in the Village, built in
1799. The old clapboard walls
are visible on the sides and rear;
the brickwork and third floor
came later. The first owner, John
Isaacs, bought the land for $295
in 1794. Next came Harmon
Hendricks, a copper dealer
and associate of revolutionary
Paul Revere. Robert Fulton,
who used copper for the boilers
in his steamboat, was one of
Hendrickss customers.
5 Meatpacking
District
Map 3 B1 q 14th St (on lines A, C, E);
8th Av L.
Once the domain of butchers
in blood-stained aprons hacking
at sides of beef, these days
(and particularly nights) the
Meatpacking District is very
different. Squeezed into an area
south of 14th Street and west of
9th Avenue, the neighborhood
is now dotted with trendy
clubs, lounges, and boutique
hotels that swell with New
Yorkers out for a good time.

The neighborhoods hipness
quotient rose when Soho
House, the New York branch of
the London private members
club, moved in, followed by
the classy Hotel Gansevoort,
with its rooftop swimming pool.
Hip clothiers, including Stella
McCartney and Marc Jacobs,
have outlets here; upscale
restaurants have opened; and
new nightclubs and bars pop
up every month.
The great allure of the
Meatpacking District is, of
course, that chic urbanites
like some edginess to their
nighttime recreation, and this is
where the district delivers. The
face of the neighborhood may
be forever changed, but club-
hoppers might still catch the
occasional whiff of the meat-
processing business that gave
the area its name.
6 Sheridan Square
Map 3 C2. q Christopher St-
Sheridan Sq.
This square, where seven
streets converge, is the heart
of the Village. It was named
for the Civil War General Philip
Sheridan, who became
commander in chief of the US
Army in 1883. His statue stands
in nearby Christopher Park.
The Draft Riots of 1863 took
place here. Over a century
later, another famous
disturbance rocked the
square. The Stonewall
Inn on Christopher
Street was a gay bar that
had stayed in business
(it was then illegal for
gays to gather in bars)
by paying off the
police. However,
on June 28, 1969, the
patrons rebelled, and
in the pitched battle that
ensued police officers were
barricaded inside the bar.
It was a landmark moral
victory for the budding
gay rights movement.
The inn that stands
today is not the
original. The Village
remains a focus for the Statue of General Sheridan Stanford Whites
citys gay community. in Christopher Park
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Old Je, the pointed tower of Jeerson
Market Courthouse
7 Jefferson Market
Courthouse
425 Ave of the Americas. Map 4 D1.
Tel (212) 243-4334. q W 4th
St-Washington Sq. Open 10am8pm
Mon & Wed, 11am6pm Tue & Thu,
10am5pm Fri & Sat. Closed public
hols. 7 nypl.org
This treasured Village landmark
was saved from the wrecking
ball and converted into a
branch of the New York Public
Library through a spirited
preservation campaign that
began at a Christmas party
in the late 1950s.
The site became a market
in 1833, named after former
president Thomas Jefferson.
Its fire lookout tower had a
giant bell that was rung to
alert the neighborhoods
volunteer firefighters. In
1865, the founding of
the municipal fire
department made
the bell obsolete,
and the Third Judicial
District, or Jefferson
Market, Courthouse was
built. With its Venetian
Gothic-style spires and
turrets, it was named
one of the 10 most
beautiful buildings in
the country when it
opened in 1877.
The old fire bell
was installed in
the tower. Here,
in 1906, Harry
Thaw was tried for
murder (see p128).
 115
By 1945, the market had
moved, court sessions had been
discontinued, the four-sided
clock had stopped and the
building was threatened
with demolition. In the 1950s,
preservationists campaigned
first to restore the clock and
then the whole building. Its
renovation was undertaken by
architect Giorgio Cavaglieri, who
preserved many of the original
details, including the stained
glass and a spiral staircase
that now leads to the librarys
dungeonlike reference room.
Facade and an ailanthus tree at
Patchin Place
8 Patchin Place
W 10th St. Map 4 D1. q W 4th St-
Washington Sq.
One of many delightful and
unexpected pockets in the
Village is this tiny block of
small residences. It is lined
with ailanthus trees that were
planted in order to absorb the
bad air. The houses were built
in the mid-19th century for
Basque waiters working at the
Brevoort Hotel on Fifth Avenue.
Later the houses became
fashionable addresses, with
many writers living here.
The poet E. E. Cummings
lived at No. 4 from 1923 until
his death in 1962. The English
poet laureate John Masefield
also lived on the block, as
did the playwright Eugene
ONeill, and John Reed, whose
eyewitness account of the
Russian Revolution, Ten Days
That Shook The World was made
into a film, Reds, directed by
Warren Beatty.
116  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
9 Forbes Magazine
Building
60 5th Ave. Map 4 E1. Tel (212) 206-
5548. q14th St-Union Sq. Galleries
Open 10am4pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat
(times may vary). No strollers. 8 Thu:
groups only. 7 Closed public hols.
Some architectural critics
have called this 1925
limestone cube by Carrre
& Hastings pompous. It was
originally the headquarters
of the Macmillan Publishing
Company. When Macmillan
moved uptown, the late
Malcolm Forbes moved in with
his financial magazine, Forbes.
The Forbes Magazine Galleries
here show Forbess diverse
tastes, with over 500 antique
toy boats; Monopoly games;
trophies; 12,000 toy soldiers;
and a signed copy of Abraham
Lincolns Gettysburg Address,
among other historical
memorabilia. Paintings, from
French to American military
works, are also on display.
0 Salmagundi Club
47 5th Ave Map 4 E1. Tel (212) 255-
7740. q 14th St-Union Sq. Open
16pm MonFri, 15pm Sat & Sun. ^
salmagundi.org
Americas oldest artists, club
resides in the last remaining
mansion on lower Fifth Avenue.
Built in 1853 for Irad Hawley, it
now houses the American
Artists Professional League, the
American Watercolor Society,
and the Greenwich Village
Toy battleship from the Forbes
Magazine Collection
Society for Historic
Preservation. Washing-
ton Irvings satiric
periodical, The Salmagundi
Papers, gave the club its name.
Founded in 1871, the club
moved here in 1917. Periodic
art exhibits open the late 19th-
century interior to the public.
Exterior of the Salmagundi Club
q First Presbyterian
Church
5th Ave at 12th St. Map 4 D1. Tel (212)
675-6150. q 14th St-Union Sq.
Open 11:45am12:30pm Mon, Wed,
Fri, 11am12:30pm Sun. 5 6pm Wed
in chapel. fpcnyc.org
Designed by Joseph C. Wells
in 1846, this Gothic church
was modeled on the Church
of St Saviour in Bath, England.
The church is noteworthy for
its brownstone tower. The
carved wooden plaques on
the altar list every pastor since
1716. The south transept by
McKim, Mead & White was
added in 1893. The fence of
iron and wood was built in
1844 and restored in 1981.
w Church of the
Ascension
5th Ave at 10th St. Map 4 E1.
Tel (212) 254-8620. q 14th St-Union
Sq. Open noon2pm & 57pm daily.
5 6pm MonFri, 9am & 11am Sun
(except during services).
ascensionnyc.org
This English Gothic Revival
church was designed in
184041 by Richard Upjohn,
architect of Trinity Church.
The interior was redone in
1888 by Stanford White, with
an altar relief by Augustus Saint-
Gaudens. Above the altar hangs
The Ascension, a mural by John
La Farge, who also designed
some of the stained glass.
The belfry tower is lit at
night to show off the colors.
In 1844, President John Tyler
married Julia Gardiner here;
she lived in nearby Colonnade
Row (see p122).
Church of the Ascension
e Washington
Mews
Between Washington Sq N and E 8th
St. Map 4 E2. q W 4th St.
Built originally as stables, this
hidden enclave was turned
into carriage houses around
1900. The south side was
added in 1939. Gertrude
Vanderbilt Whitney, founder
of the Whitney Museum (see
pp2023), once lived here.
At No. 16 is NYUs French
House, remodeled in a French
style. Movies, lectures, and
classes in French are held here.

Bust of Sylvette by Picasso, between
Bleecker and West Houston streets
r New York
University
Washington Sq. Map 4 E2. Tel (212)
998-1212, (212) 998-4636.
q W 4th St. nyu.edu
Originally called the University
of the City of New York, NYU
was founded in 1831 as an
alternative to Episcopalian
Columbia University. It is now
the largest private university in
the US and extends for blocks
around Washington Square. The
visitor center is on West 4th St.
Construction of the schools
first building on Waverly Place
sparked the Stonecutters
Guild Riot of 1833: contractors
protested the use of inmates
from a state prison to cut
stone. The National Guard
restored order. The original
building no longer exists, but
a memorial with a piece of the
original tower is on a pedestal
set into the pavement on
Washington Square South.
Samuel Morses telegraph,
John W. Drapers first ever
photographic portrait, and
Samuel Colts six-shooter were
invented here.
The Brown Building, on
Washington Place near Greene
Street, was the site of the
Triangle Shirtwaist Company.
In 1911, 146 factory workers
died in a fire here, leading to
new fire safety and labor laws.
A 36-ft (11-m) enlargement
of Picassos Bust of Sylvette is in
University Village.
GREENWICH VILLAGE
t Judson
Memorial
Church
55 Washington Sq S. Map 4 D2.
Tel (212) 477-0351. q W 4th St.
Open 10am1pm & 26pm MonFri.
5 11am Sun. judson.org
Built in 1892, this McKim, Mead
& White church is an impressive
Romanesque building with
stained glass by John La Farge.
Designed by Stanford White,
it is named after the first
American missionary sent
to foreign soil, Adoniram
Judson, who served in Burma
in 1811. A copy of his Burmese
translation of the Bible was put
in the cornerstone when the
building was dedicated.
It is the unique spirit of this
church, not the architecture,
that makes it stand out. Judson
Memorial has played an active
role in local and world
concerns and has been the
site of activism on issues
ranging from AIDS to the
arms race. It is also home to
avant-garde art exhibitions
and Off-Off-Broadway plays.
Arch on the north side of
Washington Square
y Washington
Square
Map 4 D2. q W 4th St.
This vibrant open space was
once marshland through
which the quiet Minetta
Brook flowed. By the late
1700s, the area had been
turned into a public cemetery
when excavation began for
the park, some 10,000 skeletal
remains were exhumed. The
 117
square was used as a dueling
ground for a time, then as a
site for public hangings until
1819. The hanging elm in
the northwest corner remains.
In 1826 the marsh was filled
in and the brook diverted
underground, where it still
flows; a small sign on a fountain
at the entrance to Two Fifth
Avenue marks its course.
The magnificent marble
arch by Stanford White was
completed in 1895 and
replaced an earlier wooden
arch that spanned lower Fifth
Avenue to mark the centenary
of George Washingtons
inauguration. A stairway is
hidden in the right side of the
arch. In 1916, a group of artists
led by Marcel Duchamp and
John Sloan broke in, climbed
atop the arch, and declared the
free and independent republic
of Washington Square, the state
of New Bohemia.
Across the street is the
Row. Now part of NYU, this
block was once home to New
Yorks most prominent families.
The Delano family, writers Edith
Wharton, Henry James, and
John dos Passos, and artist
Edward Hopper all lived here.
No. 8 was once the mayors
official home.
Today students, families,
and free spirits mingle and
enjoy the park side by side.
A few drug dealers frequent
the park, but it is safe by day.
Window on the corner of West 4th Street
and Washington Square
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  119

EAST VILLAGE
Peter Stuyvesant had a country estate in the restaurants. In the 1950s, low rents attracted
East Village and, in the 19th century, the Astors the beat generation. Later, hippies were
and Vanderbilts lived here. But, around 1900, followed by punks, and experimental music
high society moved uptown, and immigrants clubs and theaters still abound. Astor Place
moved in. The Irish, Germans, Jews, Poles, buzzes with students. To the east are Avenues
Ukrainians, and Puerto Ricans all left their mark A, B, C, and D, an area known as Alphabet City,
in the areas churches and landmarks, and the which, despite being somewhat gritty, has
citys most varied and least expensive ethnic become one of the citys social hot spots.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Churches Restaurants see pp29297
1 Cooper Union 5 St. Marks-in-the-Bowery Church 1 Angelica Kitchen
3 Colonnade Row 6 Grace Church 2 Il Bagatto
8 Bayard-Condict Building Parks and Squares 3 Caracas Arepa
Museums and Galleries 4 Casimir
7 Tompkins Square
5 Dirt Candy
4 Merchants House Museum Famous Theaters 6 Dumpling Man
2 Public Theater 7 Edi & the Wolf
8 Empellon Cocina
9 Great Jones Cafe
10 Hearth
14th St-
14th St-
Union Sq
Union Sq 11 Jewel Bako
L.N.Q.R
4.5.6 12 Lil Frankies
13 The Mermaid Inn
EA
ENUE

ST 14 Momofuku Noodle Bar

14
TH
15 La Palapa
R T H AV

16 Prune
UE

ST
RE
EN

Third Ave ET 17 Zum Schneider

AV

L
FOU

8th St-NYU
EA First Ave
IR

ST L
N.R EA
TH

ST
EA EA
ST ST
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13
U

ASTO
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TH
EN

Astor Place H EA
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6 ST ST
A

RE 12
A
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ET TH
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ST

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ST
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Broadway- ST EA RE SQUARE ST
9T
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Lafayette St EET ST
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EA EA RE
B.D.F.M Bleecker St ST ET
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Second Ave ET 5T
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F H
ST
RE
ET

PERETZ
SQUARE

0 meters 400

0 yards 400

Gothic bas-relief on the facade

of Grace Church See also Street Finder maps 4, 5

People relaxing in Tompkins Square Park For keys to symbols see back flap
120  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: East Village

At the spot where 10th and Stuyvesant streets now
intersect, Peter Stuyvesants country house once
stood. His grandson, also named Peter, inherited
most of the property and had it divided into streets
in 1787. Among the prize sites of the St. Marks Historic
District are the St. Marks-in-the-Bowery Church, the
Stuyvesant-Fish house and the 1795 home of Nicholas
Stuyvesant, both on Stuyvesant Street. Many other Astor Place
homes in the district were built between 1871 and subway (line 6)
1890 and still have their original stoops, lintels, and
other architectural details.

Alamo is the title of the 15-ft (4.5-m)

E
black steel cube in Astor Place 8T
designed by Bernard Rosenthal. It H
revolves when pushed.

ST

AST
OR
PLA
CE
Astor Place saw rioting
in 1849. English actor William
Macready, playing Hamlet at
the Astor Place Opera House,
criticized American actor Edwin
T
E

Forrest. Forrests fans revolted

E
R

and there were 34 deaths.

T
S
E
T
T
E
Y
FA

E
LA

NU
AVE
S TA B L

RTH

E
FOU

CO
UR
3 Colonnade Row T
Now in shabby disrepair, these buildings were once
Y
R

expensive town houses. The houses, of which only

E
W

four are left, are unified by one

O

facade in the European style.

B

The marble was quarried by

Sing Sing prisoners.

2 Public Theater
In 1965 the late Joseph
Papp convinced the city
to buy the Astor Library
(1849) as a home for the 4. Merchants House Museum
theater. Now restored, it This museum displays Federal,
sees the opening of American Empire, and Victorian
many famous plays. furniture.
 EAST VILLAGE  121

1. Cooper Union GRAMERCY &

THE FLATIRON
This institution, DISTRICT
GREENWICH
known for its art VILLAGE
and engineering
programs, provides EAST
a free education to VILLAGE

its students
LOWER EAST SIDE, East Side
CHINATOWN &
LITTLE ITALY

Locator Map
See Manhattan Map pp1617
The Stuyvesant-Fish House
(180304) was constructed out Key
of brick. It is a classic example of 5 St. Marks-in-the-
a Federal-style house. Suggested route
Bowery-Church
The church was built
Renwick Triangle is in 1799 and the
a group of 16 houses steeple added in 1828. Stuyvesant Polyclinic
built in the Italianate was founded in 1857 as the
style in 1861. German Dispensary, and it is
still a health clinic. The facade
is decorated with the busts
of many famous physicians
E and scientists.
10
TH
ST
R
EE
T

ST
ESANT
STUYV
E
U
N
E
V
A
D

E
U

E
IR

ST 9T
N

St. Marks Place was once the

H

M H
T

main street of hippie life. It is

V

A ST
R
A

E K
S
R
EE still the hub of the East
7T P T Village youth scene.
H LA
ST C Hip shops now
R E occupy many of
D

EE
the basements.
N

T
O

E
C

6T
E
S

H
ST
R
EE
T 0 meters 100

0 yards 100

Little India,
the row of Indian
eateries on the south
side of East Sixth Street,
offers a taste of India at
budget prices.

McSorleys Old Ale House still

Little Ukraine is home to around brews its own ale and serves it in
25,000 Ukrainians. The hub is St. surroundings virtually unchanged
Georges Ukrainian Catholic Church. since it opened in 1854 (see p309).
122  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Great Hall at Cooper Union, where Abraham Lincoln spoke
1 Cooper Union
7 East 7th St. Map 4 F2. Tel (212) 353-
4000. q Astor Pl. Open 11am7pm
MonFri, 11am5pm Sat, and for
lectures and concerts in Great Hall.
Closed JunAug, public hols. ^ 7
cooper.edu
Peter Cooper, the wealthy
industrialist who built the first
US steam locomotive, made
the first steel rails and was a
partner in the first transatlantic
cable venture, had no formal
schooling. In 1859 he founded
New Yorks first free, non-
sectarian coeducational
college specializing in design,
engineering, and architecture.
Still free, the school inspires
intense competition for places.
The six-story building, renovated
in 19734, was the first with a
steel frame, made of Coopers
own rails. The Great Hall was
inaugurated in 1859 by Mark
Twain, and Lincoln delivered
his Right Makes Might speech
there in 1860. Cooper Union still
sponsors a Public Forum.
2 Public Theater
425 Lafayette St. Map 4 F2. Tel (212)
967-7555 (tickets). Admin (212) 539-
8500. q Astor Pl. See also Entertain-
ment p336. publictheater.org
This large red-brick and brown-
stone building began its life in
1849 as the
Astor Library,
The Public Theater on Lafayette Street
such eminent citizens as John
Jacob Astor and Cornelius
Vanderbilt. Washington Irving,
author of Rip Van Winkle and
other classic American tales,
lived here for a time, as did
two English novelists, William
Makepeace Thackeray and
Charles Dickens. Five of the
houses were lost when the John
Wanamaker Department Store
razed them in the early 20th
century to make room for a
the citys first free library, now garage. The remaining buildings
part of the New York Public are falling to ruin.
Library. It is a prime
American example of
German Romanesque
Revival style.
When the
building was
threatened with
demolition in
1965, Joseph Papp,
founder of the New
York Shakespeare
Festival, which
became The Public
Theater, persuaded
New York City to buy
it as a home for the The original 19th-century iron stove in the kitchen
company. Renovation of the Merchants House Museum
began in 1967, and much
of the handsome interior was 4 Merchants
preserved during conversion into House Museum
six theaters. Although much of
the work shown is experimental, 29 E 4th St. Map 4 F2. Tel (212)
the Public Theater was the 777-1089. q Astor Pl., Bleecker St.
original home of hit musicals Hair Open noon5pm Mon, ThuSun
and by appt. & ^ 8 =
and A Chorus Line and hosts the merchantshouse.com
popular Shakespeare in the Park
(in Central Park) every summer. This remarkable Greek Revival
brick town house, improbably
tucked away on an East Village
3 Colonnade Row block, is a time capsule of a
428434 Lafayette St. Map 4 F2.
vanished way of life. It still has
q Astor Pl. Closed to the public. both its original fixtures and its
kitchen, and is filled with the
The Corinthian columns across actual furniture, ornaments, and
these four buildings are all that utensils of the family that lived
remain of a once-magnificent here for almost 100 years. Built
row of nine Greek Revival town in 1832, it was bought in 1835
houses. They were completed by Seabury Tredwell, a wealthy
in 1833 by developer Seth Geer merchant, and stayed in the
and were known as Geers family until Gertrude Tredwell,
Folly by the last member, died in 1933.
skeptics who She had maintained her fathers
thought no home just as he would have
one would live liked it, and a relative opened
so far east. They the house as a museum in 1936.
were proved The first-floor parlors are very
wrong when grand, a sign of how well New
the houses Yorks merchant class lived in
were taken by the 1800s.

5 St. Marks-in-the-
Bowery Church
131 E 10th St. Map 4 F1. Tel (212)
674-6377. q Astor Pl. Open 8:30am
4pm MonFri (hours may vary).
5 6:30pm Wed, 11am Sun; in
Spanish 5:30pm Sat.
One of New Yorks oldest
churches, this 1799 building
replaced a 1660 church on
the bouwerie (farm) of Governor
Peter Stuyvesant. He is buried
here, along with seven
generations of his descendants
and many other prominent
early New Yorkers. Poet W.H.
Auden was a parishioner and
is also commemorated here.
In 1878, a grisly kidnapping
took place when the remains
of department store magnate
A.T. Stewart were removed
from the site and held for
$20,000 ransom.
The church rectory at 232 East
11th Street dates from 1900 and
is by Ernest Flagg, who achieved
renown for his Singer Building
(see p108).
6 Grace Church
802 Broadway. Map 4 F1. Tel (212)
254-2000. q Astor Pl, Union Sq.
@ M13, M8, M1013. 5 Jul & Aug:
10am, 6pm Sun; SepJun: 9am,
11am, 6pm Sun. ^ 7 Concerts.
gracechurchnyc.org
James Renwick, Jr., the architect
of St. Patricks Cathedral, was
only 23 when he designed this
church, yet many consider it his
finest achievement. Its delicate
early Gothic lines have a grace
befitting the churchs name. The
interior is just as beautiful, with
Pre-Raphaelite stained
glass and a handsome
mosaic floor.
The churchs peace
and serenity were
briefly shattered
in 1863, when
Phineas T.
Barnum staged
the wedding
Tom Thumb and his bride at Grace Church
of midget General Tom Thumb
here; the crowds turned the
event into complete chaos.
The marble spire replaced a
wooden steeple in 1888 amid
fears that it might prove too
heavy for the church and it
has since developed a distinct
lean. The church is visible from
afar, because it is on a bend
on Broadway. Henry Brevoort
forced the city to bend
Broadway to divert it around
his apple orchard.
Grace Church altar and window
7 Tompkins Square
Map 5 B1. q 2nd Ave, 1st Ave.
@ M8, M9, M14A.
This English-style park has the
makings of a peaceful spot, but
its past has more often been
dominated by strife. It was the
site of Americas first organized
labor demonstration
in 1874, the main
gathering place
during the
neighborhoods
hippie era of
the 1960s and,
in 1991, an arena
for violent riots
when the police
tried to evict
homeless people
who had taken over
the grounds.
The square also
contains a poignant
monument to the
EAST VILLAGE  123
neighborhoods greatest
tragedy. A small statue of a boy
and a girl looking at a steamboat
commemorates the deaths of
over 1,000 local residents in the
General Slocum steamer disaster.
On June 15, 1904, the boat
caught fire during a pleasure
cruise on the East River. The boat
was crowded with women and
children from this then-German
neighborhood. Many local men
lost their entire families and
moved away, leaving the area
and its memories behind.
8 Bayard-Condict
Building
65 Bleecker St. Map 4 F3.
q Bleecker St.
The graceful columns, elegant
filigreed terra-cotta facade, and
magnificent cornice on this
1898 building mark the only
New York work by Louis Sullivan,
the great Chicago architect who
taught Frank Lloyd Wright. He
died in poverty and obscurity
in Chicago in 1924.
Sullivan is said to have
objected vigorously to the
sentimental angels supporting
the Bayard-Condict Buildings
cornice, but he eventually gave
in to the wishes of Silas Alden
Condict, the owner.
Because this building is
squeezed into a commercial
block, it is better appreciated
from a distance. Cross the street
and walk a little way down
Crosby Street for the best view.
The Bayard-Condict Building
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  125

GRAMERCY AND THE

FLATIRON DISTRICT
Four squares were laid out in this area by architects, such as Calvert Vaux and
real estate developers in the 19th century Stanford White, and occupied by some of New
to emulate the quiet, private residential Yorks most prominent citizens. Today, not far
areas in many European cities. Gramercy away, boutiques, trendy cafs, and high-rise
Park, still mainly residential, was one of them. apartments have taken over the stretch of
The townhouses around this square were lower Fifth Avenue just south of the famous
designed by some of the countrys best Flatiron Building.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Restaurants see pp292300
2 New York Life Insurance Company 1 Aldea 10 Gramercy Tavern
3 Appellate Division of the 2 Artisinal 11 Hill Country
Supreme Court of the State of 3 Bamiyan 12 Pure Food and Wine
New York 4 Blue Smoke 13 Saravanaa Bhavan
4 Metropolitan Life Insurance 5 Chat n Chew 14 Shake Shack
Company 6 Craft 15 Tamarind
5 Flatiron Building 7 Devi 16 Tocqueville
6 Ladies Mile 8 Eataly 17 I Trulli
8 National Arts Club 9 Eleven Madison Park 18 Union Square Caf
9 The Library at the Players
q Block Beautiful
w Gramercy Park Hotel EA
ST
r Con Edison Headquarters EA
ST 34
TH
UE

Museums and Galleries 33

RD
EN

7 Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace 33rd St S T R

U

EE
EN
AV

EA 6
ST ST T
Churches
AV

EA 32
E

ST ND
y The Little Church Around the
U
H

EA
EN

31 ST
Corner ST
E
UT

ST RE
H

ET
V

EA
A
N
FT

3O
SO

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Parks and Squares ST
N

TH RE
O

ET
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E
IS

EA EA 29 ST
1 Madison Square ST
V

ST TH RE
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MA ET
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28th St
TO
A

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27 6 28
F.M PLAUARE N T TH RE
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IN

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22 ET TH
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(SI

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21 23rd St ET
WE ST
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AS

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20 ET ST RE
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ST 23rd St
UE

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19 ET 6 TH
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EN
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ST ST
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14 HS
L TH ST T
RE
ET
ST
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0 meters 500 First Ave
L
0 yards 500

See also Street Finder maps 8, 9

Petes Tavern, a popular neighborhood bar in Gramercy Park District For keys to symbols see back flap
126  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street:
Gramercy Park 1. Madison Square
Gramercy Park and nearby Madison Square tell The Knickerbocker Club
a tale of two cities. Madison Square is ringed by played baseball here in the
offices and traffic and is used mainly by those 1840s and was the first to
codify the games rules.
who work nearby, but the fine surrounding Today office workers enjoy
commercial architecture and statues make it well the parks many statues of
worth visiting. It was once the home of Stanford 19th-century figures,
Whites famous pleasure palace, the old Madison among them Admiral
David Farragut.
Square Garden, a place where revelers always
thronged. Gramercy Park, however, retains the
air of dignified tranquility it has become known 23rd Street subway
for. Here, the residences and clubs remain, set (lines N, R)
around New Yorks last private park, for which
only those who live on the square
have a key.
Statue of Diana atop
the old Madison Square
Garden
M
5. Flatiron Building S AD
Q I
The triangle made by Fifth U SO
A
R N
Avenue, Broadway, and 22nd E
Street is the site of one of S 23
E

T
New Yorks most famous early R RD
E
MIL

skyscrapers. When it was built E

T
in 1903, it was the worlds
tallest building.
IES
LAD

A sidewalk clock found in

front of 200 Fifth Avenue
Y

marks the very end of the

WA

once-fashionable shopping
area, known as Ladies Mile.
AD
BRO

E
2
1
S
T
S
T
R
E
E
T

6 Ladies Mile
Broadway from
Union Square E
to Madison Square 1
9
T
was once New Yorks H
S
finest shopping area. T
R
E
E
T
7 Theodore
Roosevelt Birthplace
The house is a replica
of the one in which E
the 26th American 1
7
T
president was born. H
S
T
R
E
E
T 8 National Arts Club
This is a private club for
0 meters 100
the arts, on the south
0 yards 100 side of the park.
 G R A M E R C Y A N D T H E F L AT I R O N D I S T R I C T  127

LOWER
MIDTOWN
CHELSEA &
THE GARMENT
DISTRICT

East Side

GRAMERCY &
THE FLATIRON
GREENWICH DISTRICT
VILLAGE

3 Appellate Court EAST VILLAGE

This small marble
Locator Map
palace is said to See Manhattan Map pp1617
be the worlds
busiest court-
E

house. Key
U
EN

Suggested route
V
A
N
O
IS
D

2 New York Life

A

Insurance Company
M

This spectacular building by

Cass Gilbert bears his trade-
mark pyramid-shaped top.

4 Metropolitan Life Insurance Company

Vast vaulted entrances mark each corner.

0 Gramercy Park
Only residents can use
the park itself, but all
23rd Street can enjoy the peace
and charm of the area
E

subway (line 6)
U

around it.
EN
V
A
K
R

9 The Library at the Players

PA

Actor Edwin Booth founded

this club in 1888.
The Brotherhood Synagogue was a
Friends Meeting House from 1859 to
1975, when it became a synagogue.

q The Block
Beautiful
This is a tree-lined
stretch of East 19th
Street. No particular
house is outstand-
ing, but the street as
a whole is lovely.

Petes Tavern
has been here
E
E

since 1864.
C

EN
LA

Short-story writer
V
P

O. Henry, a well-
A
G

known chronicler
ID
IN

of the city, wrote

R
V

TH

The Gift of the

IR

Magi in the
second booth.
128  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Farragut statue, Madison Square
1 Madison Square
Map 8 F4. q 23rd St.
Planned as the center of a
fashionable residential district,
this square became a popular
entertainment center after the
Civil War. It was bordered by the
elegant Fifth Avenue Hotel,
the Madison Square Theater,
and Stanford Whites Madison
Square Garden. The torch-
bearing arm of the Statue of
Liberty was exhibited here
in 1884.
The Shake Shack is a top
lunchtime spot for neighbor-
hood office workers, while the
surrounding park makes for
a leisurely stroll to admire the
sculptures. The 1880 statue of
Admiral David Farragut is by
Augustus Saint-Gaudens, with
a pedestal by Stanford White.
Farragut was the hero of a Civil
War sea battle; figures
representing Courage and
Loyalty are carved on the
base. The statue of Roscoe
Conkling commemorates a
US senator who died during
the great blizzard of 1888.
The Eternal Light flagpole, by
Carrre & Hastings, honors
the soldiers who fell during
World War I.
2 New York Life
Insurance
Company
51 Madison Ave. Map 9 A3.
q 28th St. Open office hours.
This imposing building
was designed in 1928 by Cass
Gilbert of Woolworth Building
fame. The interior is a master-
piece, adorned with enormous
hanging lamps, bronze doors
and paneling, and a grand
staircase leading, of all places,
to the subway station.
Other famous buildings
have stood on this site. Barnums
Hippodrome was here
in 1874, then the first
Madison Square Garden
opened in 1879. A wide
range of entertainments
were put on, including the
prizefights of heavyweight
boxing hero John L.
Sullivan in the 1880s.
The next Madison
Square Garden
Stanford Whites
legendary pleasure
palace opened on
the same site in 1890.
Lavish musical shows
and social events were
attended by New Yorks Statues of Justice and Study above the Appellate Court
elite, who paid over
$500 for a box at the
prestigious annual horse show.
The building had street-level
arcades and a tower modeled
on the Giralda in Seville.
A gold statue of the goddess
Diana stood atop the tower.
Her nudity was shocking, but
far more scandalous was the
decadent life and death of
White himself. In 1906, while
watching a revue in the roof
garden, he was shot dead by
millionaire Harry K. Thaw, the
husband of Whites former
mistress, showgirl Evelyn Nesbit. what is widely considered
The headline in the journal
Vanity Fair summed up popular
feeling: Stanford White,
Voluptuary and Pervert,
Dies the Death of a Dog.
The ensuing trials revelations
about decadent Broadway
high society leave modern
soap operas far behind.
New York Life Insurance Companys
golden pyramid roof
3 Appellate
Division of the
Supreme Court
of the State of
New York
E. 25th St at Madison Ave. Map 9 A4
q 23rd St. Open 9am5pm MonFri
(court in session from 2pm TueThu,
from 10am Fri). Closed public hols. ^
Appeals relating to civil and
criminal cases for New York and
the Bronx are heard here, in
to be the busiest court of its
kind in the world. James Brown
Lord designed the small yet
noble Palladian Revival building
in 1900. It is decorated with
more than a dozen handsome
sculptures, including Daniel
Chester Frenchs Justice flanked
by Power and Study. During
the week, the public is invited
to step inside to admire the
fine interior, designed by
the Herter brothers, including
the courtroom when it is not
in session. Among the elegant
details worth looking for are
the fine stained-glass windows
and dome, the murals, and the
striking cabinetwork.
Displays in the lobby
often feature some of the
more famous and infamous
cases that have been heard in
this court. Among the celebrity
names that have been involved
in appeals settled here are
Babe Ruth, Charlie Chaplin, Fred
Astaire, Harry Houdini, Theodore
Dreiser, and Edgar Allan Poe.
 G R A M E R C Y A N D T H E F L AT I R O N D I S T R I C T  129

5 Flatiron Building
175 5th Ave. Map 8 F4. q 23rd St.
Open office hours.

Originally named the Fuller

Building after the construction
company that owned it, this
building by Chicago architect
Daniel Burnham was the tallest
in the world when it was
completed in 1902. One of
the first buildings to use a steel
frame, it heralded the era of Arnold Constable store
the skyscrapers.
It soon became known as the 6 Ladies Mile
Flatiron for its unusual triangular
Broadway (Union Sq to Madison Sq).
shape, but some called it Map 8 F45, 9 A5. q 14th St, 23rd St.
Burnhams folly, predicting
Clock tower of the Metropolitan Life that the winds created by the In the 19th century, the carriage
Insurance Company building buildings shape would knock trade came here in shiny traps
it down. It has withstood the from their town houses nearby
4 Metropolitan Life test of time, but the winds to shop at stores such as Arnold
Insurance along 23rd Street did have one Constable (Nos. 881887) and
notable effect. In the buildings Lord & Taylor (No. 901). The
Company early days, they drew crowds of ground-floor exteriors have
1 Madison Ave. Map 9 A4. q 23rd St. males hoping to get a peek at changed beyond recognition;
Open banking hours. ^ womens ankles as their look up to see the remains of
long skirts got blown once-grand facades.
In 1909, the addition of a 700-ft about. Police officers
(210-m) tower to this 1893 had to keep people
building ousted the Flatiron moving along, and
as the tallest in the world. their call, 23-skidoo,
The huge four-sided clock became slang
has minute hands said to for scram.
weigh 1000 lb (454 kg) The stretch of Fifth
each. The building is lit Avenue to the
up at night, and is a south of the
familiar part of the building, formerly
evening skyline. It served rather run-down,
as the company symbol has come to life
the light that never with chic shops
fails. A series of historical such as Emporio President Teddy Roosevelt
murals by N.C. Wyeth, Armani and Paul
the famed illustrator of Smith, giving 7 Theodore
such classics as Robin the area new Roosevelt Birthplace
Hood, Treasure Island, cachet and a
and Robinson Crusoe new name, 28 E. 20th St. Map 9 A5. Tel (212) 260-
(and the father of painter the Flatiron 1616. q 14th St-Union Sq-23rd St.
Andrew Wyeth), once District. Open 9am5pm TueSat (last adm:
graced the walls of 4pm). Closed pub hols. & 8 hourly.
Lectures, concerts, films, videos. =
the cafeteria. The
nps.gov/thrb
building now
houses First- The reconstructed boyhood
Boston Crdit- home of the colorful 26th
Suisse. president displays everything
from the toys with which the
young Teddy played to cam-
paign buttons and emblems of
the trademark Rough Rider hat
that Roosevelt wore in the
Spanish-American War. One
exhibit features his explorations
and interests; the other covers
Flatiron Building during its construction his political career.
130  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Bas-relief faces of great writers at the
National Arts Club
8 National
Arts Club
15 Gramercy Pk S. Map 9 A5. Tel (212)
475-3424. q 23rd St. Open noon
5pm MonFri during exhibitions.
nationalartsclub.org
This brownstone was the
residence of New York
governor Samuel Tilden, who
condemned Boss Tweed (see
p29) and established a free
public library. He had the facade
redesigned by Calvert Vaux in
18814. In 1906 the National
Arts Club bought the home and
kept the original high ceilings
and stained glass by John La
Farge. Members have included
most leading American artists
of the late 19th and early 20th
century, who were asked to
donate a painting or sculpture
in return for life membership;
these gifts form the
permanent collection. The
club is open to the public
for exhibitions only.
9 The Library
at the Players
18 Gramercy Pk S. Map 9 A5.
Tel (212) 228-7610. q 23rd St.
Closed except for prebooked
group tours.
This two-story brownstone was
the home of actor Edwin Booth,
brother of John Wilkes
Booth, President
Lincolns assassin.
Architect Stanford
White remodeled the
building as a club in 1888. Fountain with sun and giraes by Greg Wyatt in
Although intended primarily Gramercy Park
for actors, members have
included White himself, author
Mark Twain,
publisher Thomas
Nast, and Winston
Churchill, whose
mother, Jennie
Jerome, was born
nearby. A statue of
Booth playing Decorative grille at The Players club marking the
Hamlet is across
the street in Gramercy Park.
0 Gramercy Park
Map 9 A4. q 23rd St, 14th
St-Union Sq.
Gramercy Park is one of four
squares (with Union, Stuyvesant,
and Madison) laid out in the
1830s and 1840s to attract
society residences. It is the citys
only private park, and residents
in the surrounding buildings
have keys to the park gate as
the original owners once did.
Look through the railings at the
southeast corner to see Greg
Wyatts fountain, with giraffes
leaping around a smiling sun.
The buildings around the
square were designed by
some of the citys most famous
architects, including Stanford
White, whose house was
located on the site of todays
Gramercy Park Hotel. Particularly
fine are 3 and 4,
with graceful
cast-iron gates
and porches.
The lanterns in
front of 4 serve
as symbols
house of a
former mayor of the city,
James Harper. No. 34 (1883) has
been the home of the sculptor
Daniel Chester French, the
actor James Cagney, and circus
impresario John Ringling
(who had a massive pipe organ
installed in his apartment).
House facade on the Block Beautiful on East
19th Street
q Block Beautiful
E 19th St. Map 9 A5. q 14th St-Union
Sq, 23rd St.
This is a serene, tree-
lined block of 1920s
residences, beautifully
restored. None of them
is exceptional on its own,
but together they create
a wonderfully harmonious
whole. No. 132 had two
famous theatrical tenants:
Theda Bara, silent movie
star and Hollywoods first
sex symbol, and the fine
Shakespearean actress
Mrs. Patrick Campbell, who
originated the role of Eliza
Doolittle in George Bernard
Shaws Pygmalion in 1914.
The hitching posts outside
141 and the ceramic relief
of giraffes outside 147149
are two of the many details
to look for as you walk along
the block.
 G R A M E R C Y A N D T H E F L AT I R O N D I S T R I C T
w Gramercy
Park Hotel
2 Lexington Ave at 21st St.
Map 9 B4. Tel (212) 920-3300.
q 14th St-Union Sq, 23rd St.
gramercyparkhotel.com
Located on the site of Stanford
Whites house, this hotel has, for
more than 60 years, been a
home away from home for
many international visitors and
New Yorkers alike. It is also right
next to the only private park
in Manhattan.
The shabby-chic hotel drew
all types, from old matrons, to
wealthy young rock stars. Then
Ian Schrager, of Studio 54 fame,
began a $200-million renovation,
in which the 185-room hotel was
given an eclectic-Bohemian look
by artist Julian Schnabel. The
conversion included 23 condo-
miniums that range in price
from $5 million to $10 million.
The elegant Rose and Jade bars
and a Chinese restaurant are
open to the public.
e Stuyvesant
Square
Map 9 B5. q 3rd Ave, 1st Ave.
This oasis, in the form of a pair
of parks divided by Second
Avenue, was part of Peter
Stuyvesants original farm in
the 1600s. It was still in the
Stuyvesant family when the park
was designed in 1836; Peter G.
Stuyvesant sold the land to the
city for the nominal sum of $5
(much to the delight of those
living nearby, who saw real
estate values jump). A statue
of Stuyvesant by Gertrude
Vanderbilt Whitney stands in
the park. The park separated
the Stuyvesant area from the
poorer Gas House district.
r Con Edison
Headquarters
145 E 14th St. Map 9 A5.
q 3rd Ave, 14th St-Union Sq.
Closed to the public.
The clock tower of this building,
which dates from 1911, is a local
landmark. Originally conceived
The towers of Con Edison (right), Metropolitan Life, and the Empire State
by Henry Hardenbergh, the
architect best known for such
buildings as the Dakota (see
p220) and the Plaza (see p183).
The 26-story tower was built by
the same firm who designed
Grand Central Terminal. Near
the top of the tower, a 38-ft
(11.6-m) bronze lantern was
built as a memorial to Con Eds
employees who died in World
War I. The tower itself is not as
tall as nearby Empire State
Building, but when it is lit up at
night, it makes an attractive
showpiece, in addition to a
potent symbol of the company
that keeps Manhattan and the
other four boroughs shining.
Greenmarket day at Union Square
t Union Square
Map 9 A5. q 14th St-Union Sq.
Farmers Market Open 8am6pm
Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat.
Opened in 1839, this park joined
Bloomingdale Road (now
Broadway) with the Bowery
Road (Fourth Avenue or Park),
and hence its name. Later, the
center of the square was lifted
 131
up for a subway to run beneath
it. The park became popular
with soapbox orators. During
the Depression in 1930, more
than 35,000 unemployed people
rallied here, before marching on
to City Hall to demand jobs. The
square hosts a greenmarket and
is ringed by various shops from
discount department stores to
gourmet supermarkets.
y The Little Church
Around the Corner
1 E 29th St. Map 8 F3. Tel (212) 684-
6770. q 28th St. Open 8am6pm
daily. 5 12:10pm MonFri; 8:30am &
11am Sun. For lectures & concerts,
see website. 7 8 Sun, after 11am
service. littlechurch.org
Built from 1849 to 1856,
the Episcopal Church of the
Transfiguration is a tranquil
retreat. It has been known by
its nickname since 1870, when
Joseph Jefferson tried to arrange
the funeral of fellow actor
George Holland. The pastor at
a nearby church refused to bury
a person of so lowly a profession.
Instead, he suggested the little
church around the corner. The
name stuck and the church has
had special ties with the theater
ever since. Sarah Bernhardt
attended services here.
The south transept
window, by John La Farge,
shows Edwin Booth playing
Hamlet. Jeffersons cry of God
bless the little church around
the corner is commemorated
in a window in the south aisle.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  133

CHELSEA AND
THE GARMENT DISTRICT
This was open farmland in 1750. By the drifted downhill. It became a warehouse
1830s it was a suburb, and in the 1870s, district, until the Els were removed and New
with the coming of the elevated railroads Yorkers rediscovered its town houses. When
(see pp267), it had become commercial. Macys arrived at Herald Square to the north,
Music halls and theaters lined 23rd Street. the retailing and garment districts grew
Fashion Row grew in the shadow of the El, around it, along with the flower district. Today
with department stores serving middle-class Chelsea is filled with art galleries and antique
New York. As fashion moved uptown, Chelsea shops and has a large gay community.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Churches Parks and Squares
2 Empire State Building pp1389 1 Marble Collegiate Reformed 3 Herald Square
7 General Post Office Church 9 High Line
q Chelsea Art Galleries 5 St. John the Baptist Church Markets
w General Theological Seminary Modern Architecture r Chelsea Market
e Chelsea Historic District
6 Madison Square Garden Landmark Stores
t Hugh ONeill Dry Goods Store
8 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center
4 Macys
0 Chelsea Piers Complex
Monuments
Lin y Worth Monument
col
nT
un Restaurants see pp298300
ne
l
W 1 Bottino
ES
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EN

39
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EN
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ST TH ST
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0 meters ET
500

0 yards 500 See also Street Finder maps 7, 8

Empire State Building, an enduring symbol of New York For keys to symbols see back flap
134  NEW YORK AREA CITY BY AREA

Street by Street: Herald Square

Herald Square is named for the New York Herald, which had
its office here from 1894 to 1921. Today full of shoppers, the
area was once one of the raunchiest parts of New York. During
the 1880s and 1990s, it was known as the Tenderloin District
and was filled with dance halls and bordellos. When Macys
opened in 1901, the focus moved from flesh to fashion.
New Yorks Garment District now fills the streets near Macys
around Seventh Avenue, also known as Fashion Avenue.
To the east on Fifth Avenue is the Empire State Building,
with the citys best views from the observation deck.
Manhattan Mall is on
the former site of Gimbels,
Fashion Avenue is another name for the once Macys arch-rival.
stretch of Seventh Avenue around 34th It holds dozens of
Street. This area is the heart of New Yorks stores, including a
garment industry. The streets are full of massive J.C. Penney.
men pushing racks of clothes.

34th Street subway

The Hotel Pennsylvania (1, 2, 3)
was a center for the 1930s
big bands Glenn Millers
song Pennsylvania 6-5000
made its telephone
number famous.

5 St. John the

E
U

Baptist Church
EN

A beautiful set of carved

AV

Stations of the Cross is

hung on the walls of
TH

the white marble

EN

interior of this church. W

V

31
SE

ST
ST
RE
ET
The SJM Building is at 130 West
30th Street. Mesopotamian-style
friezes adorn the outside of
the building.

The Fur District is at the southern end of

E

the Garment District. Furriers ply their trade W

U

between West 27th and 30th streets. 28

EN

TH
AV

ST
RE
ET
TH
X
SI

The Flower District,

around Sixth Avenue and
West 28th Street, hums
with activity in the early
part of the day as florists
pack their vans with their
highly scented, brightly 28th Street subway
colored wares. (lines N, R)
 CHELSEA AND THE GARMENT DISTRICT  135

4. Macys
One of THEATER
DISTRICT
the biggest
department stores
in the world has
something for
CHELSEA & THE
everyone. GARMENT DISTRICT

The Greenwich Savings GRAMERCY &

THE FLATIRON
GREENWICH
34th Street Bank (now the HSBC) is a VILLAGE
DISTRICT

subway (lines B, Greek temple to banking with Locator Map

D, F, M, N, Q, R) huge columns on three sides. See Manhattan Map pp1617

Key
3 Herald Square
The New York Herald Suggested route
Buildings clock now is
W situated where Broadway 0 meters 100
36 meets Sixth Avenue.
TH 0 yards 100
ST
RE
ET
2. Empire Greeley Square
State Building is more of a traffic
The observation island than a
deck of this square, but it
quintessential does have a
skyscraper is a fine statue
great place to of Horace
view the city. Greeley,
founder of
the New York
W Tribune.
34
TH
ST
RE Little Korea is
ET an area of Korean
businesses. In
addition to
shops, there are
restaurants nearby
on West 31st and
W 32nd streets.
AY

33
ADW

RD
ST
RE
BRO

ET

1 Marble Collegiate
Reformed Church
This 1854 church was
built in the Gothic Revival
style. It became famous
when Norman Vincent
Peale was pastor here.
The Life Building at 19
West 31st Street housed
Life magazine when it
was a satirical weekly.
Carrre & Hastings
designed the building
in 1894. It is now a hotel.
136  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Marble Collegiates Tiany stained-glass
windows
1 Marble Collegiate
Reformed Church
1 W 29th St. Map 8 F3.
Tel (212) 686-2770. q 28th St.
Open 8:30am8:30pm MonFri,
9am4pm Sat, 8am3pm Sun. Closed
public hols. 5 11:15am Sun. ^
during services. 7 Sanctuary 3 W
29th St. Open 10amnoon & 24pm
MonFri. marblechurch.org
This church is best known for its
former pastor Norman Vincent
Peale, who wrote The Power of
Macys 34th Street facade
Positive Thinking. Another
positive thinker, future US
president Richard M. Nixon,
attended services here when
he was a lawyer in his pre-White
House days.
The church was built in 1854
using the marble blocks that give
it its name. Fifth Avenue was then
no more than a dusty country
road, and the cast-iron fence was
there to keep livestock out.
The original white and
gold interior walls were
replaced with a stenciled gold
fleur-de-lis design on a soft rust
background. Two stained-glass
Tiffany windows, depicting Old
Testament scenes, were placed
in the south wall in 1893.
2 Empire State
Building
See pp1389. affectionately portrayed in the
3 Herald Square
6th Ave. Map 8 E2. q 34th St-Penn
Station. See Shopping p312.
Named after the New York
Herald, which occupied a fine
arcaded, Italianate Stanford
White building here from 1893
to 1921, the square was the hub
of the rowdy Tenderloin district
in the 1870s and 1880s. Theaters
such as the Manhattan Opera
House, dance halls, hotels,
and restaurants kept the area
humming with life until
reformers clamped down
on sleaze in the 1890s. The
ornamental Bennett clock,
named for James Gordon
Bennett Jr., publisher of the
Herald, is now all that is left
of the Herald Building.
The Opera House was razed in
1901 to make way for Macys and,
soon after, other department
stores followed, making Herald
Square a mecca for shoppers.
One such store was the now-
defunct Gimbel Brothers
Department Store, once arch-
rival to Macys. (The rivalry was
New York Christmas movie A
Miracle on 34th Street.) In 1988,
the store was converted into
a vertical mall with a glittery
neon front. Most of the old
names have gone, but Herald
Square is still a key shopping
district packed with chain stores.
It also features a pedestrian plaza.
4 Macys
151 W. 34th St. Map 8 E2. Tel (212)
695-4400. q 34th St- Penn Station.
Open 9am9:30pm MonFri, 10am
9:30pm Sat, 11am8:30pm Sun.
Closed public hols. See Shopping p311.
macys.com
The worlds largest store
covers a square block, and the
merchandise inside includes
any item you could imagine in
every price range.
Macys was founded by a
former whaler named Rowland
Hussey Macy, who opened a
small store on West 14th Street
in 1857. The stores red star logo
came from Macys tattoo, a
souvenir of his sailing days.
By the time Macy died in 1877,
his little store had grown to a
row of 11 buildings. By 1902,
Macys had outgrown its 14th
Street premises, and the firm
acquired its present site, which
covers about 2 million sq ft
(186,000 sq m) of floor space.

The nave of St. John the Baptist Church
The eastern facade has a modern
entrance but still bears the bay
windows and Corinthian pillars
of the 1902 design. The 34th
Street facade even has its
original caryatids guarding the
entrance, along with the clock,
canopy, and lettering. Inside,
many of the early wooden
escalators are still in good
working order. Unsurprisingly,
Macys is a designated National
Historic Landmark.
Macys sponsors New Yorks
renowned Thanksgiving Day
parade (see p54) and the Fourth
of July fireworks (see p53). The
stores popular Spring Flower
Show draws thousands of visitors.
5 St. John the
Baptist Church
210 W 31st St. Map 8 E3. Tel (212)
564-9070. q 34th St-Penn Station.
Open 6:15am6pm daily. 5 8:45am,
10:30am & 5:15pm daily. 7 =
Founded in 1840 to serve a
congregation of newly arrived
immigrants, today this small
Roman Catholic church is
almost lost in the heart of
the Fur District. The exterior
The Corinthian colonnade of the General Post Oce
CHELSEA AND THE GARMENT DISTRICT
has a single spire.
Although the brown-
stone facade on
30th Street is dark
with city soot, many
treasures lie within
this dull exterior. The
entrance is through
the modern Friary
on 31st Street.
The sanctuary by
Napoleon Le Brun
is a marvel of Gothic
arches in glowing
white marble sur-
mounted by gilded
capitals. Painted reliefs
of religious scenes line
the walls; sunlight
streams through the
stained-glass windows. Also off
the Friary is the Prayer Garden,
a small, green and peaceful
oasis with religious statuary, a
fountain, and stone benches.
6 Madison Square
Garden
4 Pennsylvania Plaza. Map 8 D2.
Tel (212) 465-6741. q 34th St-Penn
Station. Open MonSun, times vary
according to shows. & See
Entertainment p352. 8 daily except
during shows. thegarden.com
Theres only one good thing
to be said for the razing of the
extraordinarily lovely McKim,
Mead & White Pennsylvania
Station building in favor of this
undistinguished 1968 complex:
it so enraged city preserva-
tionists that they formed an
alliance to ensure that such a
thing would never be allowed
to happen again.
Madison Square Garden itself,
which sits atop underground
Pennsylvania Station, is a
cylinder of precast concrete,
functional enough as a 20,000-
seat, centrally located home for
the NBAs famous New York
 137
Knicks (basketball), Liberty
(womens basketball), and New
York Rangers (hockey) teams. It
offers a packed calendar of
other events: rock concerts,
championship tennis and
boxing, outrageously staged
wrestling, the Westminster
Kennel Club Dog Show, and
more. There is also a 5,600-seat
theater. Tours are available daily.
Despite extensive renovations,
Madison Square Garden lacks
the panache of its earlier
location, which combined
a stunning Stanford White
building with extravagant
entertainment (see p128).
The massive interior of Madison
Square Garden
7 General Post
Office
421 8th Ave. Map 8 D2. Tel (800) ASK-
USPS. q 34th St-Penn Station. Open
24 hrs a day, every day (incl public
hols). See Practical Information p369.
Designed by McKim, Mead
& White in 1913, in a style
to complement their 1910
Pennsylvania Station across
the street, the General Post
Office is a perfect example of
a public building of the Beaux
Arts period. The imposing, two-
block-long structure has a broad
staircase leading to a facade
with 20 Corinthian columns
and a pavilion at each end. The
280-ft (85-m) inscription across
it is based on a description of
the Persian Empires postal
service, from around 520 BC:
Neither snow nor rain nor
heat nor gloom of night
stays these couriers from
the swift completion of their
appointed rounds.
138  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

2 Empire State Building

The Empire State Building is one of the tallest skyscrapers
in the United States. Named after the states nickname, it
has become an enduring symbol of the city. Construction
began in March 1930, not long after the Wall Street Crash,
and by the time it opened in 1931 space was so difficult to Symbols of the
modern age are
rent that it was nicknamed the Empty State Building. Only depicted on these
the immediate popularity of the observatories saved the bronze Art Deco
building from bankruptcy; the observatories still attract medallions placed
more than 3.5 million visitors a year. throughout the lobby.

Construction
The building was
designed for ease and
speed of construction.
Everything possible was
prefabricated and
slotted into place at a
rate of about four stories
per week.

Empire State Building

KEY

1 Over 200 steel and concrete piles

support the 365,000-ton building.
2 Nine minutes 33 seconds is the
record for racing up the 1,576 steps
from the lobby to the 86th-floor
observatory, in the annual Empire
State Run-Up.
3 Sandwich space between
the floors houses the wiring, pipes,
and cables.
4 Ten million bricks were used to
line the whole building.
5 Aluminum panels were used
instead of stone around the 6,514
windows. The steel trim masks rough
edges on the facing.
6 The framework is made from
60,000 tons of steel and was built in
23 weeks.
7 High-speed elevators travel at
up to 1,000 ft (305 m) a minute.
8 Colored floodlighting of the
top 30 floors marks special and
seasonal events.
9 The Empire State was planned
to be 86 stories high, but a then
150-ft (46-m) mooring mast for
zeppelins was added. The mast,
now 204 ft (62 m), transmits TV and
radio to the city and four states.
0 102nd-floor observatory
 CHELSEA AND THE GARMENT DISTRICT  139

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Practical Information
350 5th Ave.
Map 8 F2.
Tel (212) 736-3100. Observatories:
Open 8am2am (last adm:
1:15am); opening hours may be
shorter on Jan 1 & Dec 24 and 31.
& 9 7 0 esbnyc.com

Transport
. Views from the Observatories
q A, B, C, D, E, F, N, Q, R, 1, 2, 3 to
The 86th-floor observatory offers superb views, both from its
34th St. @ M15, M16, M34, Q32.
indoor galleries and its 360-degree outdoor deck. The 102nd-
floor observatory, 1,250 ft (381 m) high, requires an extra fee,
payable at the second-floor Visitors Center or online.

A Head for Heights

As the building took shape,
construction workers often
showed great bravery. Here,
a worker clings to a crane
hook. The Chrysler Building
and other skyscrapers in
the background appear
surprisingly small.

Lightning Strikes
The Empire State
Building is a natural
lightning conductor,
struck up to 100 times
a year. The observation
deck is open even during
unfavorable weather.

Pecking Order Empire State

1,454 ft (443 m)
New Yorkers are justly proud of their with mast
citys symbol, which towers above
the icons of other countries. Eiffel Tower
1,045 ft
(319 m)
Great Pyramid
350 ft (107 m)
Big Ben 220 ft
(67 m)

Encounters in the Sky

. Fifth Avenue
Entrance Lobby
A relief image of the skyscraper
is superimposed on a map of
New York State in the marble-
lined lobby.
The Empire State Building has been seen in
many films. However, the finale from the 1933
classic King Kong is easily its most famous guest
appearance, as the giant ape straddles the spire
to do battle with army aircraft. In 1945 a B-25
bomber flew too low over Manhattan in fog
and struck the building just above the 78th
floor. The luckiest escape was that of a young
elevator operator whose cabin plunged 79
floors. The emergency brakes saved her life.
140  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
The Javits Center, New York's largest
convention space
8 Jacob K. Javits
Convention Center
655 W. 34th St. Map 7 B2. Tel (212)
216-2000. q 34th St-Penn Station,
42nd St. @ M34, M42. Open only on
show days times vary. & ^ 7
0 javitscenter.com
Strikingly modernistic in
appearance, this glass building
facing the Hudson River opened
in 1986. It was designed by
the Chinese-American architect
I.M. Pei to give New York a new
space for large-scale expo-
sitions, conventions, and trade
shows. The 18-story building is
constructed of 16,000 panes
of glass, the two main halls
can accommodate thousands
of delegates, and the lobby
is high enough to hold the
Statue of Liberty.
In 1989 the construction
of the Galleria River Pavilion
provided an additional
40,000 sq ft (3,750 sq m) of
open space to the building, and
two outdoor terraces overlooking
the river.
Aerial view of the Chelsea Piers Complex
9 High Line
Access at Gansevoort St, 14th St,
16th St, 18th St, and every two or
three blocks to 30th St. Map 3 B1.
Tel (212) 500-6035. q 23rd St; 14th St
(on lines A, C, E); 8th Av L; Christopher
St/Sheridan Sq. Open 7am10pm
daily (to 8pm in winter).
thehighline.org
This once-disused 1930s
elevated railbed has been
transformed into a slender
city park. In 1999, local residents
created the organization Friends
of the High Line with the aim
of saving the structure from
demolition. Now extending
from Gansevoort Street up
Tenth Avenue to 30th Street, the
park has played an important
role in the gentrification of this
neighborhood. The garden
is planted with grasses, trees,
and shrubs, and each section
has different features a mini-
lawn, a sundeck, a steel flyover
walkway providing a totally
unique experience.
0 Chelsea Piers
Complex
11th Ave (17th to 23rd Sts) Map 7 B5.
Tel (212) 336-6666. q14th St, 18th St,
23rd St. @ M14, M23. Open daily. &
chelseapiers.com
This mammoth complex
converted four neglected piers
into a center for a vast range
of sports and leisure activities
(see p35). The facilities include
skating rinks, running tracks, a
rock-climbing wall, a golf driving
range, a marina, and TV and film
production sound stages.
q Chelsea Art
Galleries
Between W 21st St and W 27th St,
around 10th and 11th Aves. Map 7 C4.
q 23rd St. Open usually 10am6pm
TueSat. nygallerytours.com
Attracted by cheap rents,
the many galleries that set up
shop in Chelsea during the 1990s
were a driving force in this
areas resurgence. Between
150 and 200 venues are here,
exhibiting work from up-and-
coming artists in all manner of
media. Check out P.P.O.W. or
David Zwirner, which have a
reputation for intriguing or
provocative work. Try to avoid
Saturdays, when art-crawler
traffic is at its heaviest.
A 15th-century music manuscript in the
General Theological Seminary
w General
Theological
Seminary
175 9th Ave. Map 7 C4. Tel (212) 243-
5150. q 23rd St. Open noon3pm
MonFri, 11am3pm Sat. 5 11:45am
Mon & WedFri, 6pm Tue & Sun. ^
7 gts.edu
Founded in 1817, this block-
square campus accepts 150
students at a time to train for the
Episcopal priesthood. Clement
Clarke Moore, a professor of
Oriental Languages at what is
today Columbia University (see
p226), donated the site, officially
known as Chelsea Square. The
earliest remaining building dates
from 1836; the most modern, St.
Marks Library, was built in 1960
and holds the largest collection
of Latin Bibles in the world.
The campus can be entered
from Ninth Avenue only. Inside,
the garden is laid out in two
quadrangles like an English
cathedral close: it is especially
lovely in the spring.

e Chelsea Historic
District
W 20th St from 9th to 10th Aves.
Map 8 D5. q 18th St. @ M11.
Although he is better known as
the author of the poem A Visit
from St. Nicholas than as an
urban planner, Clement Clarke
Moore owned an estate here
and divided it into lots in the
1830s, creating handsome rows
of town houses. Restoration has
since rescued many of the
original buildings here.
Of these, the finest are seven
houses known as Cushman
Row, running from 406418
West 20th Street, which were
built from 183940 for Don
Alonzo Cushman. He
was a merchant who
also founded the
Greenwich Savings
Bank. He joined
Moore and James N.
Wells in the
development of
Chelsea. Rich in
detail and intricate
ironwork, Cushman
Row is ranked with
Washington Square
North as a supreme
example of Greek Enjoying a snack in the inviting Chelsea Market
Revival architecture.
Look for cast-iron wreaths
around attic windows and the
pineapples on the newel posts
of two of the houses old
symbols of hospitality.
Farther along West 20th
Street, from 446450, there are
fine examples of the Italianate
style for which Chelsea is
A house on Cushman Row
CHELSEA AND THE GARMENT DISTRICT  141
also renowned.
The detailed
brickwork arches of
windows and
fanlights subtly
implied the wealth
of the owner, being
able to afford this Hugh ONeill Dry Goods Store
expensive effect.
lined Sixth Avenue from 18th to
23rd streets, the area known as
r Chelsea Market Fashion Row. ONeill, whose
sign can still be seen on the
75 9th Ave (between 15th and 16th
facade, was a showman and
sts). Map 7 C5. q 14th St. Open
7am10pm MonSat, 8am9pm Sun. super-salesman whose
chelseamarket.com trademark was a fleet of shiny
delivery wagons. His customers
This enclosed food court and came in droves via the
shopping mall is one of New conveniently close Sixth
Yorks unmissable destinations Avenue El. They were not the
for foodies. Visitors can pick up a carriage trade enjoyed by
Ladies Mile (see
p129), but their
numbers allowed the
Row to flourish until
the turn of the
century, when the
retailing district
continued its move
uptown. Now mostly
restored, the
buildings have
turned into
superstores and
bargain places like
T. J. Maxx.
range of gourmet ingredients, y Worth
exotic foodstuffs, and charming
gifts here. The retail options Monument
include Lucys Whey, for 5th Ave and Broadway. Map 8 F4.
artisanal US cheeses; Chelsea q 23rd St-Broadway.
Wine Vault, for a global selection
of wines; and Bowery Kitchen Hidden away behind a water
Supply, for professional-quality meter on a triangle amid city
equipment. Several high-end traffic is an obelisk
purveyors maintain bakeries erected in 1857 to
and kitchens, ensuring only the mark the grave of the
freshest, highest-quality snacks one public figure to
and meals. Chelsea Market also be buried under the
houses the TV production streets of Manhattan.
facilities for the Food Network. That honor belongs
to General William J.
Worth, a hero of
t Hugh ONeill Dry
the Mexican wars of
Goods Store the mid-1800s. A
655671 6th Ave. Map 8 E4. cast-iron fence of
q 23rd St. swords embedded
in the ground
Though the store is long gone, surrounds the
the 1876 cast-iron columned monument.
and pilastered facade clearly
shows the scale and grandeur The Worth
of the emporiums that once Monument
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  143

THEATER DISTRICT
It was the move of the Metropolitan Opera of the movies waned, and the glitter
House to Broadway at 40th Street in 1883 was replaced by grime. However, a
that first drew lavish theaters and restaurants redevelopment program has brought the
to this area. In the 1920s, movie palaces public and the bright lights back. Pockets
added the glamour of neon to Broadway, of calm also exist away from the bustle:
the signs getting bigger and brighter until explore the Public Library or relax in Bryant
eventually the street became known as the Park. For the best of both worlds, though,
Great White Way. After World War II, the pull visit the landmark Rockefeller Center.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Modern Architecture Landmark Hotels and
5 New York Yacht Club 1 Rockefeller Center Restaurants
8 New York Public Library t MONY Tower 4 Algonquin Hotel
0 Times Square Parks and Squares 7 Bryant Park Hotel
w Group Health Insurance Building Landmark Stores
6 Bryant Park
e Paramount Building
Famous Theaters 2 Diamond District
r Shubert Alley
i Alwyn Court Apartments 3 Lyceum Theater
q New Amsterdam Theater
Museums and Galleries
u Carnegie Hall
9 International Center of
y City Center of Music and Dance
Photography
o Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum 59th St-
p Museum of Arts and Design Columbus Circle
1.A.B.C.D
UE

W
ES CE
WE T NT
EN

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300 yards ES 55 ST
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EN

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ST
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West Midtown
NT

ST ST 49th St
WE RE RE ET
ER
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Ferry Terminal ST ET N.Q.R ST

ET
TE

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ST 41 ST ET
ST RE
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39 ST 47th-50th St-
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TE Rockefeller Center
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ET
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RO

T
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Port Auth. ST
TH

WE 48
Bus Terminal ST 47 TH
A.C.E TH ST
UE

WE
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Times Sq- 15t18 ST 46 ST

EN

TH
W 42nd St
ES WE ST
RE
UE

1.2.3 45
AV

T TIMES ST TH ET
SQUARE
EN

WE ST
ST 44 RE
AV

TH ET
40 43 ST
RD RE
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TH ET
Times Sq-
H

ES S
42nd St 42nd St T R E E
FT

T
T
7.N.Q.R.S B.D.F.M
FI

Restaurants see pp298300 39 ST Fifth Ave

TH RE 7
1 Aureole ET

2 Becco ST
RE
ET
3 Le Bernardin
4 Blue Fin
5 Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien
6 Carnegie Deli
7 DB Bistro Moderne 13 Molyvos
8 Esca 14 Normas
9 Estiatorio Milos 15 Osteria al Doge
10 Gordon Ramsay 16 The Sea Grill
11 Marea 17 Taboon
12 Marseille 18 Virgils Real Barbecue See also Street Finder maps 7, 8, 11, 12

Grand chandelier hanging from the ceiling of the New York Public Library For keys to symbols see back flap
144  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: Times Square

Named for the 25-story New York Times Tower, which opened
in 1906, Times Square has been at the heart of the citys
theater district since 1899, when Oscar Hammerstein built the
Victoria and Republic theaters. Since the 1920s, the glowing
neon of theater billboards has combined with the Times
illuminated newswire and other advertising to create a
spectacular lightshow. After a period of decline starting in
the 1930s, which saw sex shows taking over many of the
grand theaters, rejuvenation of the district began in the Paramount Hotel Designed by
1990s. Old-style Broadway glamor again rubs shoulders Philippe Starck, this hotel is the
with modern entertainment in this part of the city. hip haunt of the theater crowd
who drink in the late-night
Paramount Bar (see p308).
W
48
Sardis In Times Square since TH
1921, Sardis walls are lined ST
with caricatures of Broadway
stars of yesterday and today.

W
47
TH
ST

Westin Hotel This striking

45-story hotel consists of a prism
split by a curving beam of light.
Stunning views over the city.

W
E Walk This 45
TH
entertainment and
ST
retail complex has a
multiplex cinema,
restaurants, a hotel,
and the BB King
Blues Club.

W
43
R
D
ST

42nd St-Port Auth

Bus Terminal subway
(Lines A, C & E)
W
41
ST

ST
V
A

Times Sq-42nd St
TH

subway (lines N, Q,
EN

R, S, 1, 2, 3, 7)
0. One Times Square
V
SE

Every New Years Eve at midnight,

the famed crystal ball drops from
the top of One Times Square. There . New Victory Theater
are great views from the front of This classic Broadway theater is used as
this New York landmark. a young peoples performance space.
 T H E AT E R D I S T R I C T  145

UPPER

Riv son
WEST SIDE

er
d
Electronic Ticker Tape

Hu
CENTRAL
PARK
The figures on the Morgan
Stanley LED tickertape are
10 ft (3 m) high. It is one THEATER
of the many eye-catching DISTRICT

lighting displays that

illuminate Times Square
CHELSEA & THE LOWER
day and night. City GARMENT DISTRICT MIDTOWN
ordinances require
Locator Map
office buildings to See Manhattan Map pp1617
carry neon advertising.
Key
McGraw-Hill
Suggested route
Building

J.P. Stevens Celanese

Tower Building
AY
DW

E
U
EN
OA

V
BR

Duffy Square A statue

of actor, composer, and
writer George M Cohan,
TH

responsible for many of

EN

W
47 Times Square Broadways hits, stands
V

TH Information proud in this small square.

SE

W ST Center Duffy Square is named for

46 World War I hero, Fighting
TH Father Duffy, immortalized
ST in a statue. It is also home
to the TKTS (see p332)
booth, where cut-price
theater tickets are sold daily.

3 Lyceum Theater
The oldest Broadway theater,
the Lyceum has a beautifully
ornate Baroque facade.

W 0 meters 100
43
R 0 yards 100
D
ST
Belasco Theater Built in 1907
by producer David Belasco, it was
the most technically advanced
theater of its time. Original Tiffany
glass and Everett Shinn murals
decorate the interior. It is rumored
that Belascos ghost still treads
the boards some nights.
146  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Christmas and Easter shows here.

Later, NBC opened its TV studios
here. Rockefeller Plaza is home
to a well-known ice-skating rink
in winter; it is also the site of a
famous Christmas tree.
The Top of the Rock, an
observatory on the 67th70th
floors of the center, offers a
dizzying 360 degree panoramic
view of the city. On the 67th and
69th floors, the outdoor terraces
feature transparent safety glass
for stunning views downwards.

2 Diamond District
47th St, between 5th and 6th Aves.
Map 12 F5. q 47th50th Sts. See
Shopping p320. diamond
district.org

Most shop windows on 47th

Street glitter with gold and
diamonds. The buildings are
filled with booths and work-
A Christmas tree stands above the Rockefeller Plaza skating rink for the holiday season shops where jewelers vie for
customers while, upstairs, vast
1 Rockefeller University, was leased in 1928 sums of money change hands.
Center by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., as an The Diamond District was born
ideal central home for an opera in the 1930s, when the Jewish
Map 12 F5. q 47th50th Sts. house. When the 1929 diamond cutters of Antwerp
Tel (212) 332-6868 (information). Depression scuttled these and Amsterdam fled to the US
7 0 - 8 NBC, Rockefeller
plans, Rockefeller, stuck with to escape Nazism. Today, Jewish
Center, daily. Tel (212) 664-7174 a long lease, went ahead with dealers still predominate.
(reservations advised). Radio City
his own development. The 14 Although mainly a wholesale
Music Hall, daily. Tel (212) 247-4777.
buildings erected between district, individual customers
Top of the Rock, daily. Tel (212) 698-
2000. rockefellercenter.com
1931 and 1940 provided jobs are welcome. Bring cash,
nbc.com radiocity.com for up to 225,000 people during compare prices, haggle, and
topoftherocknyc.com the Depression; by 1973, there stay away if you know nothing
were 19 buildings. about the value of diamonds.
When the New York City In December 1932, Radio City
Landmarks Preservation Music Hall opened within the
Commission unanimously complex. It still hosts its famous 3 Lyceum Theater
voted to declare 149 W 45th St. Map 12 E5. Tel Tele-
Rockefeller Center a charge (212) 239-6200. q 42nd,
landmark in 1985, they 47th St, 49th St. See Entertainment
rightly called it the heart p337. lyceumtheater.com
of New York . . . a great
unifying presence in the The oldest active New York
chaotic core of midtown theater is a frilly, Baroque-style
Manhattan. bandbox. This 1903 triumph
It is the largest was the first theater by Herts
privately owned complex and Tallant, later renowned for
of its kind. The Art Deco their extravagant style. The
design was by a team Lyceum made history
of top architects headed with a record run of 1,600
by Raymond Hood. performances of the comedy
Works by 30 artists Born Yesterday. It was the first
can be found in foyers, theater to be designated a
on facades, and in the historic landmark and, though
gardens. The site, once the Theater District has shifted
a botanic garden westward, there are still
owned by Columbia Wisdom by Lee Lawrie, on the GE Building many shows here.

The Lobby in the Algonquin Hotel
4 Algonquin Hotel
59 W 44th St. Map 12 F5. Tel (212)
840-6800. q 42nd St. See Where to
Stay p283. algonquinhotel.com
No other hotel captures the
citys formidable literary history
quite like the Algonquin Hotel.
For more than a century it has
played host to home-grown
talent and international
luminaries. In the 1920s,
the Rose Room was home
to Americas best-known
luncheon club, the Round
Table, with literary lights
such as Alexander Woollcott,
Franklin P. Adams, Dorothy
Parker, Robert Benchley,
and Harold Ross. All were
associated with the New
Yorker (Ross was the founding
editor), whose 25 West 43rd
Street headquarters had
a back door opening into
the hotel.
Renovations have
preserved the old-
fashioned, civilized
feel of the cozy,
paneled lobby,
where pub-
lishing types
and theater-
goers still like
to gather for
drinks, settling
into comfortable
armchairs
and ringing
a brass bell
to summon Statue of poet William Cullen
the waiters. Bryant in Bryant Park
T H E AT E R D I S T R I C T  147
5 New York Yacht 7 Bryant Park Hotel
Club 40 W 40th St. Map 8 F1.
37 W 44th St. Map 12 F5. Tel (212) Tel (212) 869-0100. q 42nd St.
bryantparkhotel.com
382-1000. q 42nd St. Closed to the
public (members only). nyyc.org
The American Radiator building
A whimsical 1899 creation, this (now the Bryant Park Hotel) was
private club has the carved the first major New York work
sterns of 16th-century Dutch by Raymond Hood and John
galleons in the three bay Howells, who went on to
windows. The prows of design the Daily News
the ships are borne Building (see p157), the
up by sculpted McGraw-Hill building, and
dolphins and Rockefeller Center. The 1924
waves that spill over the structure is reminiscent of one
windowsills and splash of Hoods best-known Gothic
down to the buildings, Chicagos Tribune
sidewalk. This is Tower. Here, the design is
the birthplace of sleeker, giving the building
the Americas Cup the illusion of being taller
yacht race, which was than its actual 23 stories. The
based in the US from black brick facade is set off by
1857 to 1983. That gold terra-cotta trim, evoking
was the year the images of flaming coals; a
much-coveted prize comparison that would have
was taken from suited its original owners
the table where well, since they made
it had stood heating equipment. The
for more than building is now a luxury
a century, hotel (see p284) across
when the The Americas Cup, the coveted the street from Bryant
Australia II yachting prize Park and boasts the
sailed to a New York outpost of
historic victory. trendy LA eatery Koi.
6 Bryant Park
Map 8 F1. q 42nd St.
bryantpark.org
In 1853, with the New York
Public Library site still occupied
by Croton Reservoir, Bryant Park
(then Reservoir Park) housed
a dazzling Crystal Palace, built
for the Worlds Fair of that
year (see p27).
In the 1960s the park was
a hangout for drug dealers
and other undesirables. In
1989 the city renovated
the park, reclaiming
it for workers and
visitors to relax in.
In spring and fall,
world-famous fashion
shows take place
here; in the summer,
classic movies
are screened.
Over seven
million books lie
in storage stacks The Bryant Park Hotel, formerly the
beneath the park. American Radiator Building
148  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Doorway leading to New York Public
Librarys Main Reading Room
8 New York
Public Library
5th Ave & 42nd St. Map 8 F1. Tel (212)
930-0830. q 42nd St-Grand Central,
42nd St-5th Ave. Open 10am6pm
Mon & ThuSat (till 8pm Tue & Wed),
15pm Sun. Closed public hols. 7
8 Lectures. = nypl.org
In 1897 the coveted job of
designing New Yorks main
public library was awarded to
architects Carrre & Hastings.
The librarys first director
envisaged a light, quiet, airy
place for study, where millions
of books could be stored and
yet be available to readers as
promptly as possible. In the
hands of Carrre & Hastings,
his vision came true, in what is
The Main Reading Room, with its original
bronze reading lamps
Barrel vaults of carved white marble over the stairs in the Astor Hall
considered the epitome of New James Lenox. Its collections today
Yorks Beaux Arts period. range from Thomas Jeffersons
Built on the site of the former handwritten copy of the
Croton Reservoir (see p26), it Declaration of Independence
opened in 1911 to immediate to T.S. Eliots typed copy of The
acclaim, despite having cost the Waste Land. More than 1,000
city $9 million. The vast, paneled queries are answered daily, using
Main Reading Room stretches the vast database of the CATNYP
two full blocks and is suffused and LEO computer catalogs.
with daylight from the two This library is the hub of a
interior courtyards. network of 82 branches, with
Below it are 88 miles nearly seven million users.
(140 km) of shelves, Some branches are very well-
holding over seven known, such as the New York
million volumes. A Public Library for the Performing
staff of over 100 and Arts at the Lincoln Center (see
a computerized dumb- p214) and the Schomburg
waiter can supply Center in Harlem (see p231).
any book within
10 minutes.
The Periodicals
Room holds 10,000
current periodicals
from 128 countries.
On its walls are
murals by Richard
Haas, honoring
New Yorks great
publishing houses.
The original library
combined the
collections of John One of the librarys two stone lions, named
Jacob Astor and Patience and Fortitude by Mayor LaGuardia

9 International
Center of
Photography
1133 Avenue of the Americas (43rd
St). Map 8 F1. Tel (212) 857-0000.
q 42nd St. Open 10am6pm Tue,
Wed, Sat & Sun; 10am8pm Thu & Fri.
Closed major hols. & 7 =
10am5pm TueSun. icp.org
This museum was founded
by Cornell Capa in 1974 to
conserve the work of such
photojournalists as his brother
Robert, who was killed on
assignment in 1954. The
collection of 12,500 original
prints contains work by top
photographers such as
Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-
Bresson, and W. Eugene
Smith. Special
exhibitions
are organized from
the ICPS archive
as well as from
outside sources.
There are also films, W.C. Fields (far left) and Eddie Cantor (holding top hat, right)
lectures, and classes. in the 1918 Ziegfeld Follies at the New Amsterdam Theater
0 Times Square
Map 8 E1. q 42nd St-Times Sq.
n Times Square Visitor Center, 1560
Broadway (46th St), 8am8pm daily.
8 noon Fri, (212) 869-1890.
timessquarenyc.org
The 1990s saw a transformation
in Times Square, reversing a
decline that began during the
Depression. The Square is now
a safe and vibrant place where
Broadway traditions comfortably
coexist with modern innovations.
Although the New York Times
has moved on from its original
headquarters at the south end
of the Square, the glistening ball
(now of Waterford crystal) still
drops at midnight on New
Years Eve, as it has since the
building opened with fanfare
and fireworks in 1906. New
buildings, such as the Bertels-
mann and the fashionably
minimalist Cond Nast offices,
sit comfortably alongside the
classic Broadway theaters.
Broadways fortunes have also
revived. Many theaters have been
renovated and are again housing
new, more contemporary
T H E AT E R D I S T R I C T
productions; theater-goers
throng the areas bars and
restaurants each evening.
One of the areas landmarks is
the 57-story skyscraper designed
by Miami architects Arquitec-
tonica, that tops the E Walk
entertainment and retail
complex at 42nd Street and
Eighth Avenue (see p144). Other
attractions include an outpost of
Madame Tussauds Wax Museum
at 42nd Street, between Seventh
and Eighth Avenues; a massive
Disney Store; Bowlmor Lanes
bowling alley; a pedestrian plaza;
and Toys "R"Us at 1514 Broadway.
q New Amsterdam
Theater
214 W 42nd St. Map 8 E1. Tel (212)
282-2900. q 42nd St-Times Sq. 8
10am3pm MonTue, 10am11am
ThuSat, 10am Sun; (212) 282-2907.
This was the most opulent
theater in the United States
when it opened in 1903,
and the first to have an
Art Nouveau interior. It was
owned for a time by Florenz
Ziegfeld, who produced his
famous Follies revue here
between 1914 and 1918 with
Broadways first $5 ticket price.
He remodeled the roof
garden into another theater,
the Aerial Gardens. This is
one of the fine early
theaters on 42nd Street
that fell on hard times.
With the rehabilitation
of Times Square,
its fortunes rose
again and it is
once more in
Show Business.
Art Deco top of the
Paramount Building
 149
w Group Health
Insurance Building
330 W 42nd St. Map 8 D1. q 42nd
St-8th Ave. Open office hours.
This 1931 design by Raymond
Hood was the only New
York building selected for
the influential International
Style survey of 1932 (see p45).
Its unusual design gives it a
stepped profile seen from
east and west, but a slab
effect viewed from the north or
south. The exteriors horizontal
bands of blue-green terra-cotta
have earned it the nickname
jolly green giant. Step inside
to see the classic Art Deco
lobby of opaque glass and
stainless steel.
One block west is Theater
Row, a pleasant group of Off-
Broadway theaters and cafs.
e Paramount
Building
1501 Broadway. Map 8 E1. q 34th St.
The fabulous ground-floor
movie theater where bobby-
soxers stood in line in the
1940s to hear Frank Sinatra
perform is gone, but theres
still a theatrical feel to the
massive building designed
by Rapp & Rapp in 1927. On
each side 14 symmetrical
setbacks rise to an Art Deco
crown a tower, clock, and
globe. In the heyday of the
Great White Way, the tower
was lit, with an
observation deck
at the top. The
Hard Rock Cafe
is now here,
along with
a retail store
and a
concert
area.
150  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
r Shubert Alley
Between W 44th and W 45th St.
Map 12 E5. q 42nd St-Times Sq.
See Entertainment p334.
The playhouses on the streets
west of Broadway are rich in
theater lore and in notable
architecture. Two classic
theaters built in 1913 are the
Booth (222 West 45th Street),
named after actor Edwin Booth,
and the Shubert (225 West
44th), after theater baron Sam
S. Shubert. They form the west
wall of Shubert Alley, where
aspiring actors lined up, hoping
for a casting in a Shubert play.
A Chorus Line ran at the
Shubert until 1990, for a record
6,137 performances; Katharine
Hepburn starred earlier in The
Philadelphia Story. Across from
the 44th Street end of the alley
is the St. James, where Rodgers
and Hammerstein made their
debut with Oklahoma! in 1941,
followed by The King and I.
Nearby is Sardis, the restaurant
where actors waited for
opening-night reviews. Irving
Berlin staged The Music Box
Revue opposite the other end
of the alley in 1921. His Music
Box Theater has since housed
many famous shows.
Auditorium of the Shubert Theater, built by Henry Herts in 1913
The tiled Moorish facade of the City Center of Music and Dance
t MONY Tower
1740 Broadway. Map 12 E4. q 57th
St-Seventh Ave. Closed to the public.
Built in 1950, the head office
of the Mutual of New York
insurance company (now
MONY Financial Services) has
a weather vane that tells you
everything except the wind
direction. The mast turns green
for fair, orange for cloudy,
flashing orange for rain, and
white for snow. Lights moving
up the mast mean warmer
weather; lights going down
mean get out your overcoat!
y City Center of
Music and Dance
131 W 55th St. Map 12 E4. Tel (212)
581-1212. q 57th St-Seventh Ave.
^ 7 See Entertainment p338.
citycenter.org
This highly ornate Moorish
structure with its dome of
Spanish tiles was designed
in 1924 as a Masonic Shriners
Temple. It was saved from the
developers by Mayor LaGuardia,
becoming home to the New
York City Opera and Ballet in
1943. When the troupes moved
to Lincoln Center, City Center
lived on as a major venue
for dance. Renovation work
has preserved the delightful
excesses of the architecture.
u Carnegie Hall
154 W 57th Street. Map 12 E3.
Tel (212) 247-7800. q 57th St-Seventh
Ave. Museum: Open 11am4:30pm
daily & during concert intermissions.
Closed Wed. ^ 7 8 11:30am,
12:30pm, 2pm & 3pm MonFri;
11:30am & 12:30pm Sat; 12:30pm
Sun. = See Entertainment p342.
carnegiehall.org
Financed by millionaire
philanthropist Andrew
Carnegie, New Yorks first
great concert hall opened
in 1891. The terra-cotta and
brick Renaissance-style building
has among the best acoustics
in the world. On opening night,
Tchaikovsky was a guest

Carnegie Hall, oering some of the best acoustics in the world
conductor and New Yorks
finest families attended. For
many years Carnegie Hall
was home to the New York
Philharmonic, under conductors
such as Arturo Toscanini, Bruno
Walter, and Leonard Bernstein.
Playing Carnegie Hall quickly
became an international
symbol of success for both
classical and popular musicians.
In the 1950s, a campaign by
violinist Isaac Stern
saved the site from
redevelopment,
and in 1964 it was
made a national
landmark.
Renovation
in 1986 brought
the bronze
balconies and
the ornamental
plaster back to
their original
splendor. In 1991,
a museum opened
next to the first-tier
level, telling the story
Millionaire
of the first 100 years
Andrew
of The House that
Carnegie
Music Built. In 2003,
the Judy and Arthur Zankel Hall
re-established the lower level
as a performance venue.
Top orchestras and
performers from around the
world still fill Carnegie Hall,
and the corridors are lined
with memorabilia of artists
who have performed here.
T H E AT E R D I S T R I C T
i Alwyn Court
Apartments
180 W 58th St. Map 12 E3. q 57th
St-Seventh Ave. Closed to the public.
You cant miss it not with the
fanciful crowns, dragons, and
other French Renaissance-style
terra-cotta carvings covering
the exterior of this 1909 Harde
and Short apartment building.
The ground floor has lost its
cornice, but the rest of the
building is intact, and its one
of a kind in the city.
The facade follows the style
of Franois I, whose symbol,
a crowned salamander, can
be seen above the entrance
to the building.
The interior courtyard
features a dazzling display of
the illusionistic skills of artist
Richard Haas, in which plain
walls are transformed into
carved stonework.
The crowned salamander, symbol
of Franois I, on Alwyn Court
 151
o Intrepid Sea-Air-
Space Museum
Pier 86, W 46th St. Map 11 A5.
Tel (877) 957-SHIP. @ M42, M50.
Open AprOct: 10am5pm MonFri;
10am6pm Sat, Sun and hols; Nov
Mar: 10am5pm daily. & =
intrepidmuseum.org
Exhibits on board this World
War II aircraft carrier include
fighter planes from the 1940s,
the A-12, the worlds fastest
spy plane, and the Growler, a
guided-missile submarine.
The workings of todays super-
carriers are traced in Stern Hall,
while Technologies Hall looks at
the rockets of the future and
includes two flight simulators.
Mission Control offers live cov-
erage of NASA shuttle missions.
In 2012, the museum intro-
duced the Space Shuttle Pavilion,
which houses the historic space
shuttle Enterprise.
The ight deck of the Intrepid, with ghter
jets and spy planes on display
p Museum of Arts
and Design
2 Columbus Circle. Map 12 D3.
Tel (212) 956-3535. q 59th St-
Columbus Circle. Open 10am6pm
TueSun (to 9pm Thu & Fri). Closed
public hols. & ^ 7 8 Lectures,
films: = madmuseum.org
The leading American cultural
institution of its kind, this
museum housed in a modern,
bold, eye-catching building is
dedicated to contemporary
objects in an array of media,
from clay and wood to metal
and fiber. The collection has
over 2,000 artifacts by inter-
national craftsmen and designers.
Items by top-class American
craftsmen are also on sale.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  153

LOWER MIDTOWN
From Beaux Arts to Art Deco, this section a museum, reveals the grandeur of the
of Midtown boasts some fine architecture. age. The commercial pace quickens at 42nd
Quiet, residential Murray Hill was named for Street, near Grand Central Terminal, where
a country estate that once occupied the site. tall office buildings line the streets. However,
By the turn of the century, it was home to few of the newer buildings have equaled the
many of New Yorks first families, including Beaux Arts Terminal itself or such Art Deco
the financier J.P. Morgan, whose library, now beauties as the Chrysler Building.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Modern Architecture
2 Grand Central Terminal pp1589 1 MetLife Building
3 Home Savings of America 9 Nos. 1 and 2 United Nations Plaza
4 Chanin Building 0 United Nations pp1625
5 Chrysler Building Churches
6 Daily News Building
e Church of the Incarnation
7 Tudor City
8 Helmsley Building
w Fred F. French Building
See also Street Finder
t Sniffen Court
maps 9, 12, 13
Museums and Galleries
q Japan Society
r Morgan Library & Museum
pp1667
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Restaurants see pp29899 0 meters 400

1 Ali Baba 0 yards 400

2 Grand Central Oyster Bar
3 Michael Jordans Steakhouse

Terraced arches with triangular windows on the spire of the Chrysler Building For keys to symbols see back flap
154  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: Lower Midtown

A walk in the neighborhood allows you to see
an eclectic mix of New Yorks architectural styles. 1 MetLife Building
This skyscraper, built by
Step back to appreciate the contours of the Pan Am in 1963, towers
tallest skyscrapers, and step inside to experience above Park Avenue.
the many fine interiors, from modern atriums
such as those in the Philip Morris Building and
Ford Foundation buildings, to the ornate details
of the Home Savings Bank and the soaring
spaces of Grand Central Terminal.

2. Grand Central Terminal

The vast, vaulted interior is a
splendid reminder of the heyday
of train travel. This historic building
E
U

also features specialty shops and

EN

gourmet restaurants.
AV
RK

Grand Central-42nd St
PA

subway (lines S, 4, 5, 6, 7)
E E
U
41
EN

ST
AV

ST
N

4 Chanin Building
TO

Built for self-made

G
N

real estate mogul

XI

Irwin Chanin in
LE

the 1920s, this

building has a fine
Art Deco lobby.

3. Home
Savings of America
Formerly the headquarters
of the Bowery Savings The Mobil Building has
Bank, this is one of the a self-cleaning stainless
finest bank buildings in steel facade that is
New York. Architects embossed in geometric
York & Sawyer designed patterns to prevent it
it to resemble a from warping. It was
Romanesque palace. built in 1955.
 LOWER MIDTOWN  155

8 Helmsley Building
Straddling Park Avenue THEATER UPPER
MIDTOWN
DISTRICT
between 45th and 46th, its
ornate entrance symbolized
the wealth of its first occupants,
New York Central Railroad. LOWER
MIDTOWN

r
ve
Ri
GRAMERCY &

st
THE FLATIRON East Side

Ea
DISTRICT

Mailbox Locator Map

in the See Manhattan Map pp1617
Chrysler
Building

Key
Suggested route

5. Chrysler
Building Worker resting during construction
Ornamented with of the Chrysler Building
automotive motifs,
this Art Deco
delight was built
in 1930 for the
Chrysler car
company.
E
U

The Ford Foundation Building

EN

E is the headquarters of Fords

43
AV

RD philanthropic arm. It has a lovely

ST interior garden surrounded by a
D

RE
IR

ET
cube-shaped building made
E
TH

42 of pinkish-gray granite,
N
D glass, and steel.
ST
RE
ET
E
U
EN
AV
D

Ralph J. Bunche Park

N
CO

E
U
SE

EN
AV
T
RS
FI

0 meters 100

0 yards 100

6. Daily News 7 Tudor City

Building This 1928 private
The Art Deco residential complex
former home of has 3,000 apartments.
the newspaper has Built in the Tudor
a revolving globe style, it features fine
in the lobby. stonework details.
156  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Lobby of the MetLife Building
1 MetLife Building
200 Park Ave. Map 13 A5. q 42nd
St-Grand Central. Open office hours.
0 Savings Bank (now
Once, the sculptures atop the
Grand Central Terminal stood
out against the sky. Then this
colossus, formerly called the Pan
Am Building and designed by
Walter Gropius, Emery Roth and
Sons, and Pietro Belluschi, rose
up in 1963 to block the Park
Avenue view. It dwarfed the
terminal and aroused universal
dislike. At the time it was the
largest commercial building in
the world, and the dismay over
its scale helped thwart a later
plan to build a tower over the
terminal itself.
It is ironic that the New York
skies were blocked by Pan Am,
a company that had opened
up the skies as a means of
travel for millions of
people. When the
company began in 1927,
Charles Lindbergh,
fresh from his solo trans-
atlantic flight, was one of
their pilots and an adviser on
new routes. By 1936, Pan Am
managed to introduce the first
trans-Pacific passenger route,
and in 1947 they introduced the
first round-the-world route.
The buildings famous rooftop
heliport was abandoned in 1977
after a freak accident showered
debris onto the surrounding
streets. Now Pan Am itself has
gone, too, and in 1981 the
entire building was sold to the
Metropolitan Life organization.
2 Grand Central
Terminal Stonework detail on the Chanin Building
See pp1589.
4 Chanin Building
3 Home Savings 122 E 42nd St. Map 9 A1. q 42nd
St-Grand Central. Open office hours.
of America
Once the headquarters of
110 E 42nd St. Map 9 A1. q 42nd Irwin S. Chanin, one of New
St-Grand Central. Open by appt only.
Yorks leading real estate
Cipriani Tel (646) 723-0826.
developers, the 56-story tower
was the first skyscraper in the
Many consider this 1923 building Grand Central area, a harbinger
the best work of bank of things to come.
architects York & It was designed by
Sawyer, who chose the Sloan & Robertson
style of a Romanesque in 1929 and is one of
basilica for the offices of the best examples of
the venerable Bowery the Art Deco period.
A wide bronze band,
Home Savings of patterned with birds
America). An arched and fish, runs the full
entry leads into the vast Facade of Home Savings length of the facade;
banking room, with a of America building the terra-cotta base
high-beamed ceiling, is decorated with a
marble mosaic floors, and marble luxuriant tangle of stylized
columns that support the stone leaves and flowers. Inside,
arches that soar overhead. Radio Citys sculptor Ren
Between the columns are Chambellan worked on the
unpolished mosaic panels of reliefs and the bronze grilles,
marble from France and Italy. elevator doors, mailboxes,
The building is also home to clocks, and pattern of waves
Cipriani restaurant, whose in the floor. The vestibule reliefs
opulent decor lures high chart the career of Chanin, who
rollers for celebratory dinners. was a self-made man.
Carved detail in the banking hall of Home Savings of America

Stainless-steel
gargoyle on the
Chrysler Building
5 Chrysler Building
405 Lexington Ave. Map 9 A1.
Tel (212) 682-3070. q 42nd St-Grand
Central. Open office hours
(7am6pm), lobby only. 7
Walter P. Chrysler began his
career in a Union Pacific Railroad
machine shop, but his passion
for the motor car helped him
rise swiftly to the top of this
industry, to found, in 1925, the
corporation bearing his name.
His wish for a headquarters in
New York that symbolized his
company led to a building that
will always be linked with the
golden age of motoring.
Following Chryslers wishes,
the stainless-steel Art
Deco spire resembles a
car radiator grille; the
buildings series of
stepped setbacks are
emblazoned with
winged radiator caps,
wheels and stylized
automobiles; and there
are gargoyles modeled
on hood ornaments
from the 1929
Chrysler Plymouth.
It stands at 1,046ft
(320 m), but it lost the
title of tallest building in
the world to the Empire
State Building a few
months after its
completion in 1930.
William Van Alens
77-story Chrysler
Building and its shining
crown are still among
the citys best-known
and most-loved
landmarks.
The crowning spire
was kept a secret until
the last moment, when,
having been built in the
fire shaft, it was raised Elevator door at the Chrysler Building
LOWER MIDTOWN
into position
through the
roof, ensuring
that the building
would be higher than
the Bank of Manhattan,
then just completed
downtown by Van Alens great
rival, H. Craig Severance.
Van Alen was poorly
rewarded for his labors.
Chrysler accused him of
accepting bribes from
contractors and refused to
pay him. Van Alens career
never recovered from the slur.
The stunning lobby, once
used as a showroom for
Chrysler cars, was perfectly
restored in 1978. It is lavishly
decorated with patterned
marbles and granite from
around the world and has
chromed steel trim. A vast
painted ceiling by Edward
Trumball shows transportation
scenes of the late 1920s.
Although the Chrysler
Corporation never occupied the
building as their headquarters,
their name remains, as firm a
fixture as the gargoyles.
 157
Entrance to the Daily News Building
6 Daily News
Building
220 E 42nd St. Map 9 B1.
q 42nd St-Grand Central.
Open 8am6pm MonFri.
The Daily News was founded
in 1919, and by 1925 it was a
million-seller. It was known,
rather scathingly, as the servant
girls bible, for its concentration
on scandals, celebrities, and
murders, its readable style, and
heavy use of illustration. Over
the years it has stuck to what
it does best, and the formula
paid off handsomely. It revealed
stories such as the romance of
Edward VIII and Mrs. Simpson,
and has become renowned
for its punchy headlines. Its
circulation figures are still
among the highest in the
United States.
Its headquarters, designed
by Raymond Hood in 1930, has
rows of brown and black brick
alternating with windows to
create a vertical striped effect.
Hoods lobby is familiar to
many as that of the Daily Planet
in the 1980s Superman movies.
It includes the worlds largest
interior globe, and bronze lines
on the floor indicate the
direction of world cities and
the position of the planets.
At night, the intricate detail
over the front entrance of the
building is lit from within by
neon. The newspapers offices
are now on West 33rd Street,
but this building has been
designated as a national
historic landmark.
158  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

2 Grand Central Terminal

In 1871 Cornelius Vanderbilt opened a railway
station on 42nd Street. Although often
revamped, it was never large enough and was
finally demolished. The present station opened
in 1913. This Beaux Arts gem has been a gateway
to and symbol of the city ever since. Its glory
is the soaring main concourse and the way
it separates pedestrian and train traffic. The
building has a steel frame covered with plaster 42nd Street colonnaded facade
and marble. Reed & Stern were in charge of the
logistical planning;
Warren & Wetmore, for
the overall design.
The restoration by
architects Beyer
Blinder Belle is
outstanding.

Statuary on the
42nd Street Facade
Jules-Alexis Coutans
sculptures of Mercury,
Hercules, and Minerva
crown the main entrance.

Cornelius Vanderbilt
The railroad magnate was
known as the Commodore.

KEY

1 Subway
2 Circumferential Road
3 As many as 750,000 people
pass through the terminal each
day. An escalator leads up into the
MetLife Building, where there are
specialty shops and restaurants.
4 Main Concourse Level
5 Vanderbilt Hall, adjacent to the
Main Concourse, is a good example
of Beaux Arts architecture. It is
decorated with gold chandeliers
and pink marble. Grand Central Oyster Bar
6 The Lower Level is linked to This popular spot (see p299), with its yellow
the other levels by stairways, ramps, Guastavino tiles, is one of the many eateries in
and escalators. the station. The dining concourse is enormous,
with food, snacks, and drinks to suit all tastes.
 LOWER MIDTOWN  159

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Practical Information
E 42nd St at Park Ave.
Map 9 A1.
Tel (212) 340-2583.
Open 5:30am2am daily. 7 &
8 12:30pm daily, sold online
and in the Main Concourse, (212)
935-3960; self-guided tours are
also available, see Grand Central
Terminal website for details.
. Main Concourse 0 - = Lost & found: (212)
This vast area with its vaulted ceiling is dominated 340-2555.
by three great arched windows on each side. grandcentralterminal.com

Transport
q 4, 5, 6, 7, S to Grand Central.
@ M15, M42, M50,
M101103, Q32.

Vaulted Ceiling
A medieval manuscript
provided the basis
for French artist Paul
Helleus zodiac design
containing over 2,500
stars. Lights pinpoint
the major constellations.

Grand Staircase
There are now two of
these double flights of
marble steps, styled
after the staircase in
Paris Opera House, . Central Information
and a vivid reminder This four-faced clock tops the
of the glamorous days travel information booth on
of early rail travel. the Main Concourse.
160  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
7 Tudor City
E 41st43rd St between 1st and 2nd
Aves. Map 9 B1. q 42nd St- Grand
Central. @ M15, M42, M50.
Dating from 19258, this early
urban renewal effort by the
Fred F. French Company was
designed as a middle-class
city within the city. Rents were
modest, thanks to the large-
scale production. There are
12 buildings containing
apartments, a hotel, shops,
restaurants, a post office, and
two small private parks, all
built in the Tudor Gothic style.
In the mid-19th century the
area was the haunt of gangs and
criminals and was known as
Corcorans Roost, after Paddy
Corcoran, the leader of the
notorious Rag Gang. The East
River shore was lined with glue
factories, slaughterhouses,
breweries, and a gasworks. Some
were still there when Tudor City
was planned, so its buildings
have only a few outward-facing
windows from which residents
might enjoy what is now a great
view of the river.
Upper stories of Tudor City
8 Helmsley
Building
230 Park Ave. Map 13 A5.
q 42nd St-Grand Central.
Open office hours.
One of the great New York
views looks south down Park
Avenue to the Helmsley
Building straddling the busy
traffic flow beneath. There is
just one flaw the monolithic
MetLife Building (which was
built by Pan Am as its corporate
headquarters in 1963) that
9 1 and 2 United
Nations Plaza
Map 13 B5. q 42nd St-
Grand Central. @ M15,
M42, M50.
These two great
columns of blue-
green mirrored glass
are set at an angle to
each other; the play of light and
reflections on their gleaming
sides and sloping setbacks
make them seem a giant,
ever-changing, work of
modern art. The marble
and mirrored interiors
are also stunning. They
house streamlined
modern offices and,
in No. 1, the
Millennium
United
Performance at the Japan Society Nations Plaza Hotel. Here, the
guest list frequently includes
towers behind it, replacing many UN delegates from all over
the buildings former the world as well as a number
backdrop, the sky. of visiting heads of state. Even
Built by Warren & Wetmore the stresses of international
in 1929, the Helmsley Building diplomacy must ease when one
was originally the headquarters is floating lazily in the glassed-in
of the New York Central Railroad swimming pool, enjoying the
Company. Its namesake, the late birds-eye views of the city and
Harry Helmsley, was a the United Nations itself.
billionaire who
began his career
as a New York 0 United Nations
office boy for See pp1625.
$12 per week.
His wife Leona,
who passed
away in 2007, q Japan Society
was a prominent 333 E 47th St. Map 13 B5.
feature in Tel (212) 832-1155. q 42nd St-Grand
all the Central. @ M15, M50. Gallery Open
advertise- 11am6pm TueThu, 11am9pm Fri,
ments for their hotel chain 11am5pm Sat & Sun. ^ 7 8
until her imprisonment in 1989 japansociety.org
for tax evasion on a grand scale.
Many observers believe that The headquarters of the Japan
the extravagant glitter of the Society, founded in 1907 to
buildings face-lift is due to foster understanding and
Leonas over blown cultural exchange
taste in decor. between Japan
and the US,
was built with
Roman gods reclining against the Helmsley Building clock

the help of John D. Rockefeller
III, who underwrote costs of
some $4.3 million. The striking
black building with its delicate
sun grilles was designed by
Tokyo architects Junzo
Yoshimura and George
Shimamoto in 1971. It includes
an auditorium, a language
center, a research library, a
museum gallery, and traditional
Oriental gardens.
Changing exhibits include
a variety of Japanese arts, from
swords to kimonos to scrolls.
The society offers programs
of Japanese performing arts,
lectures, language classes,
and many business workshops
for American and Japanese
executives and managers.
w Fred F.
French Building
521 5th Ave. Map 12 F5. q 42nd
St-Grand Central. Open office hours.
Built in 1927 to house the
best-known real estate firm
of the day, this is a fabulously
opulent creation.
It was designed by Frenchs
chief architect, H. Douglas Ives,
in collaboration with Sloan &
Robertson, whose other work
Lobby of the Fred F. French Building
LOWER MIDTOWN
Tiany stained-glass window in the Edward Burne-Jones.
Church of the Incarnation
included the Chanin Building
(see p156). They handsomely
blended Near Eastern, ancient
Egyptian, and Greek styles with
early Art Deco forms.
Multicolored faience orna-
ments decorate the upper t Sniffen Court
facade, and the water tower
is hidden in a false top level
of the building. Its disguise is
an elaborate one, with
reliefs showing a rising
sun flanked by griffins
and bees and symbols
of virtues such as
integrity and industry.
Winged Assyrian
beasts ride on a
bronze frieze over the
entrance. These exotic
themes continue into
the vaulted lobby,
with its elaborate
polychrome ceiling
decoration and 25
gilt-bronze doors.
This was the first
building project to
employ members of
the Native Canadian
Caughnawaga tribe as
construction workers.
They did not fear
heights and soon
became highly sought
.after as scaffolders for
many of the citys most
famous skyscrapers.
 161
e Church of the
Incarnation
209 Madison Ave. Map 9 A2. Tel (212)
689-6350. q 42nd St-Grand Central,
33rd St. Open 11:30am2pm MonFri
(also 47pm Tue, 57pm Wed),
14pm Sat, 8:15am12:30pm Sun.
5 12:15pm & 6:30pm Wed,
12:45pm Fri, 8:30am & 11am Sun.
7 8 by appointment.
churchoftheincarnation.org
This Episcopal church dates
from 1864, when Madison
Avenue was home to the elite.
Its patterned sandstone and
brownstone exterior is typical
of the period. The interior has an
oak communion rail by Daniel
Chester French; a chancel mural
by John La Farge; and stained-
glass windows by La Farge,
Tiffany, William Morris, and
r Morgan Library
& Museum
See pp1667.
150158 E 36th St. Map 9 A2.
q 33rd St.
Here is a delightful, intimate
courtyard of 10 brick Roman-
esque revival carriage houses,
built by John Sniffen in the
1850s. They are perfectly and
improbably preserved off
a busy block in modern New
York. The house at the south
end was used as a studio by
the American sculptor
Malvina Hoffman, whose
plaques of Greek horsemen
decorate the exterior wall.
Malvina Homans studio
162  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

0 United Nations
Founded in 1945 with 51 members, the United Nations now
numbers 193 nations. Its aims are to preserve world peace, to
promote self-determination, and to aid economic and social
well-being around the globe. New York was chosen as the UN
headquarters, and John D. Rockefeller, Jr. donated $8.5 million
for the purchase of the site. The chief architect was American
Wallace Harrison, who worked with an international Board of
Design Consultants. The 18-acre (7-ha) site is an international
zone, with its own stamps and post office. In 2006, the
UNs General Assembly approved a $1.6-billion renovation
of the complex that is due for
completion in 2015; visitors should
phone ahead to check access.

United Nations headquarters

. Security Council
Delegates and their assistants confer
around the horseshoe-shaped table
while verbatim reporters and other
UN staff members sit at the long
table in the center.

KEY

1 Economic and Social Council

2 Trusteeship Council
3 The Conference Building
houses meeting rooms for the
Security Council, the Trusteeship
Council, and the Economic and
Social Council.
. Peace Bell
4 Secretariat building Cast from the coins of 60 Rose Garden
5 The statue of peace was a gift nations, this gift from Japan Twenty-five varieties of roses
from Yugoslavia. hangs on a cypress pagoda adorn the manicured gardens
shaped like a Shinto shrine. on the East River.
 U N I T E D N AT I O N S  163

. Reclining Figure (1982) VISITORS CHECKLIST

This bronze statue was a gift from
the Henry Moore Foundation.
Colors of the World
Flags of member nations fly in
front of the UN complex.
Practical Information
1st Ave at 46th St.
Map 13 C5.
Tel (212) 963-8687.
Open 9:30am5:30pm MonFri,
10am4:15pm Sat & Sun (last adm
45 mins before closing). Closed
Jan 1, Presidents Day, Memorial
Day, Independence Day, Labor
Day, Eid, Thanksgiving, Dec 25
(limited hours during year-end
hols). 7 8 MonFri; must book
in advance; no children under 5.
0 = un.org/tours
Transport
q 4, 5, 6, 7 and S to 42nd
St-Grand Central. @ M15,
M42, M50.

.General Assembly
This is the only UN organ in which
all member states are represented.
One regular, three-month session
is held each year.

Non-Violence (1988)
Luxembourg donated
this peace sculpture by
Karl Fredrik Reutersward.

Visitors
entrance

Let Us Beat Swords Into Plowshares

This bronze statue (1958) by Soviet
sculptor Evgeny Vuchetich
symbolizes the main goal of the
United Nations.
164  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

The Work of the United Nations

The goals of the United Nations are pursued by three UN Security Council, it also
councils and a General Assembly comprising all of its member appoints the judges of the
nations. The Secretariat carries out the administrative work International Court of Justice,
based in the Netherlands.
of the organization. Guided tours allow visitors to see the
Security Council Chamber. Often there is a chance to briefly
observe a meeting.

Secretary General Translators interpret

debates in Arabic, Chinese,
French, Russian, Spanish,
or English.

Mural symbolizing peace and freedom by

Per Krohg (Norway)

Reporters
Nation
delegates sit in
alphabetical order by
country, but who sits at the
front is decided before every
session by drawing lots.
General Assembly
The General Assembly is the
governing body of the UN
and has regular sessions each
year from mid-September to
mid-December. Special sessions
are also held when the Security
Council or a majority of
members request one. All
member states are represented
with an equal vote, regardless
of size. The General Assembly
may discuss any international
problem raised by the members
or by other UN bodies. Although
it cannot enact laws, recommen-
dations strongly influence world
opinion; these require a two-
thirds majority vote.
Lots are drawn before
each session to determine the
seating in the chamber for the
delegations. All 1,898 seats in
the chamber are equipped
with earphones that offer
simultaneous translations in
several languages. The General
Public gallery
Public entrance
General Assembly Hall
Assembly also appoints the
Secretary General (on the
recommendation of the
Security Council), approves
the UN budgets, and elects the
non-permanent members of
the Councils. Together with the
Foucaults Pendulum (Holland); its slowly
rotating swing is proof of the earths
rotation on its axis
Security
Council
The most powerful part of the
UN is the Security Council. It
strives to achieve international
peace and security and
intervenes in crises such as the
fighting in Iraq and Afghanistan.
It is the only body whose
decisions member states are
obliged to obey, as well as the
only one in continuous session.
Five of its members China,
France, the Russian Federation,
the United Kingdom, and the
United States are permanent.
The other nations are elected by
the General Assembly to serve
two-year terms.
When international conflicts
arise, the Council first tries to
seek agreement by mediation.
If fighting breaks out, it may
issue cease-fire orders and
impose military or economic
sanctions. It could also decide
to send UN peacekeeping
missions into troubled areas to
separate opposing factions until
issues can be resolved through
diplomatic channels.
Military intervention is the
Councils last resort. UN forces
may be deployed, and peace-
keeping forces are resident in
such places as Cyprus and the
Middle East.
Trusteeship
Council
The smallest of the councils,
this is the only UN body whose
workload is decreasing. The
council was established in
1945 with the goal of fostering

peaceful independence for non-
self-governing territories or
colonies. Since then, more than
80 colonies have gained self-
rule, and the number of people
living in dependent territories
has been reduced from 750
million to about 3 million. The
Trusteeship Council consists of
the five permanent members
of the Security Council.
Trusteeship Council Chamber
Economic and
Social Council
The 54 members of this Council
work to improve the standard of
living and social welfare around
the world, goals that consume
80 percent of the UNs resources.
It makes recommendations to
the General Assembly, to
each member nation, and to
the UNs specialized agencies.
The Council is assisted by com-
missions dealing with regional
economic problems, human
rights abuses, population,
narcotics, and womens rights.
It also works with the Inter-
national Labor Organization,
the World Health Organization,
UNICEF, and other global
welfare organizations.
Secretariat
An international staff of 16,000
works for the Secretariat to
carry out the day-to-day work
of the United Nations. The
Secretariat is headed by the
Secretary General, who plays
a key role as a spokesperson
in the organizations peace-
keeping efforts. The Secretary
General is appointed by the
General Assembly for a five-
year term. On January 1,
2007, Ban Ki-moon of South
Korea became the latest
Secretary General.
U N I T E D N AT I O N S  165
membership
in favor of
Taiwan
gained UN
membership.
In the 1990s,
the UN was
involved in
the break-up
of Yugoslavia,
and more
Zanetti mural (Dominican Republic) in the Conference Building recently in
depicting the struggle for peace the conflicts
in Afghanistan
Important Events and Libya. A 2004 UN mission
in UN History to Congo was plagued by
The UN depends on voluntary accusations of sexual abuse by
compliance and military UN peacekeepers. In 20067
support from its members to there were arrests over
keep the peace in the event kickbacks in the UN oil-for-food
of disputes. In 1948, the UN program to Iraq.
declared South Korea the At any given time at least
legitimate government of half a dozen missions are
Korea; two years later, it played active somewhere in the world.
a major role in defending South The UN was awarded the
Korea against North Korea. In Nobel Peace Prize in 1988
1949, the UN helped negotiate and 2001.
a cease-fire between Indonesia
and the Netherlands and set up
a conference that led to the
Dutch granting independence
to Indonesia.
In 1964 a UN military force
was sent to Cyprus to keep
peace between the Greeks
and Turks, and still remains.
Persistent issues in the Middle
East have kept UN forces in the
area since 1974, the year that Soviet premier Khrushchev speaking to the
China long refused General Assembly in 1960
Works of Art at the UN
The UN Building has acquired numerous works of art and
reproductions by major artists; many have been gifts from member
nations. Most of them have either a peace or international friendship
theme. The legend on
Norman Rockwells The
Golden Rule reads Do unto
others as you would have
them do unto you. Marc
Chagall designed a large
stained-glass window as a
memorial to former
Secretary General Dag
Hammarskjld, who was
accidentally killed while on a
peace mission in 1961. There
is a Henry Moore sculpture
in the grounds (limited
access) and many other
sculptures and paintings by The Golden Rule (1985), a large mosaic by
the artists of many nations. Norman Rockwell
166  NEW YORK AREA BY AREA

r Morgan Library & Museum

The Morgan Librarys collection, accumulated by
banker Pierpont Morgan, is housed in a magnificent
palazzo-style 1906 building by architects McKim,
Mead & White. Morgans son, J. P. Morgan, Jr., made
it a public institution in 1924. One of the worlds finest
collections of rare manuscripts, drawings, prints,
books, and bindings is on display in a complex that
includes the original library and the home of Pierpont
Morgan himself.
Exterior of the original library building

The Song of Los (1795)

Mystic poet William Blake
designed and engraved this
plate for one of his most
innovative works.

Morgan House

Main entrance

Morgan
Stanley
Gallery West

Key
Gutenberg Bible (1455) This volume Exhibition space
is one of only 11 surviving copies; the
Morgan Library holds three in total. Non-exhibition space

Mozarts Horn Concerto

in E-flat Major
The six surviving leaves
of this score are written
in different-colored inks.
 LOWER MIDTOWN  167

Library Guide VISITORS CHECKLIST

Mr. Morgans Study and the
original library contain some Practical Information
of his favorite paintings, objets 225 Madison Ave.
dart and rare acquisitions. Map 9 A2.
Changing exhibitions feature Tel (212) 685-0008.
Open 10:30am5pm TueThu,
a wide variety of impressive
10:30am9pm Fri, 10am6pm Sat,
cultural artifacts.
11am6pm Sun. Closed Mon, Jan
1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & free
. Mr. Morgans Study 79pm Fri. ^ 7 8 - =
Renaissance art and an themorgan.org
antique, Florentine wooden
ceiling adorn this room. Transport
q 6 to 33rd St; 4, 5, 6, 7, S to
Grand Central Terminal; B, D, F, V to
First floor 42nd St. @ M15, and M16, M34
crosstown.

. Mr. Morgans Library

The walls are lined from
floor to ceiling with triple
tiers of bookcases. Murals
show historical figures
and their muses, and
signs of the zodiac.

. The Rotunda (1504)

Clare Eddy The entrance foyer of the
Thaw Gallery Morgan Library has marble
columns and pilasters; the
marble floor is modeled
Morgan Stanley on the floor in Villa Pia in
Gallery East the Vatican gardens.

The Nursery Alice Pierpont Morgan

Lewis Carrolls
characters are Pierpont Morgan (18371913) was
immortalized in not only a leading financier but
John Tenniels also one of the great collectors of
classic illus- his time. Rare books and original
trations manuscripts were his passion,
(c.1865). and inclusion in his collection
was an honor. In 1909, when
Morgan requested the donation
of the manuscript of Puddnhead
Wilson, Mark Twain responded,
One of my high ambitions is gratified.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  169

UPPER MIDTOWN
Upscale New York in all its diversity is here, in names such as Astor and Vanderbilt. In the
this district of churches and synagogues, clubs 1950s, architectural history was made when
and museums, grand hotels and famous stores, the Lever and Seagram buildings were erected.
as well as trendsetting skyscrapers and pockets These first great modern towers marked
of luxury living. For almost 30 years from Midtown Park Avenues change from a
1833, Upper Midtown was home to society residential street to a prestigious office address.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets Modern Architecture Churches and Synagogues
and Buildings 2 Trump Tower 4 St. Thomas Church
9 Villard Houses 3 IBM Building 8 St. Patricks Cathedral pp18081
q General Electric Building e Lever House 0 St. Bartholomews Church
u Sutton Place r Seagram Building y Central Synagogue
i Beekman Place t Citigroup Center Landmark Hotels
o Roosevelt Island Museums and Galleries w Waldorf-Astoria
a Fuller Building
5 Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) s Plaza Hotel
pp1747 Landmark Stores
6 American Folk Art Museum
1 Fifth Avenue
7 Paley Center for Media
p Bloomingdales
CE
NT
S

RA
ICA

LP
AR
KS
ER
AM

GRAND Fifth Ave-

WE ARMY 59th St EA
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UE

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Restaurants see pp298300

1 Aquavit
2 BLT Steak
3 Dawat
4 Felidia
5 Four Seasons
6 La Grenouille
7 Pampano
8 Rue 57
9 Shun Lee Palace
10 Smith & Wollensky See also Street Finder maps 12, 13, 14

Beautiful stained-glass windows inside St. Patricks Cathedral For keys to symbols see back flap
170  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: Upper Midtown

The luxury stores that are
synonymous with Fifth
Avenue first blossomed as
society moved on uptown.
In 1917, Cartiers acquired the The University Club
mansion of banker Morton F. was built in 1899 as
Plant in exchange for a string 1 Fifth Avenue an elite club for
of pearls, setting the style for The popular carriage rides offer gentlemen.
other retailers to follow. But tourists a taste of past elegance
and a leisurely way to view
this stretch of Midtown is not some of the main sights
simply for shoppers. There are around this thoroughfare.
three distinctive museums
and an equally diverse
assembly of architectural
styles to enjoy, too.

4 St. Thomas Church

Much of the interior carving

E
was designed by sculptor

U
Lee Lawrie.

N
E
V
A
5. Museum
of Modern Art
One of the
worlds finest
collections of
modern art.

7 Paley Center
for Media
H
FT

Exhibitions, seasons of
FI

special screenings, live Fifth Avenue

events and a vast library subway
of historic broadcasts
(lines E, V)
are offered at this
media museum.

Saks Fifth Avenue

has offered goods in
impeccable taste to
generations of New
Yorkers. (See p311.)
8. St. Patricks
Cathedral
This, one of the largest
Catholic cathedrals in
the United States, is a Olympic Tower
magnificent Gothic combines offices,
Revival building. apartments and a
skylit atrium within
its sleek walls.

9 Villard Houses
Five handsome brownstone
houses now form part of the
New York Palace Hotel.
 UPPER MIDTOWN  171

2 Trump Tower CENTRAL

PARK UPPER
Donald Trumps EAST SIDE

Paley Park signature tower

is a tiny contains luxury
green oasis, residences. UPPER
MIDTOWN
known as a

. I
elt
vest-pocket

ev
os
park. LOWER

Ro
MIDTOWN

Ri ast
r
ve
E
Locator Map
See Manhattan Map pp1617
3 IBM Building
A peaceful atrium is found
at the base of this polished Key
black granite building.
Suggested route
Sony Building has a very
distinctive Chippendale top. 0 meters 100

0 yards 100

Tiffany & Company is

e Lever House renowned for its discreet
This building is one of luxury. The store contains
the most prominent many precious jewels.
glass-box buildings (See p320.)
in New York.
E
U
N
E
V
A

W
53
RD
ST
N
O
IS

Park Avenue Plaza is a

D

bulky glass prism containing

A

an airy atrium. q General Electric Building

M

The spiky pinnacle of

this building, built in 1931,
Racquet Club, a Renaissance palazzo is meant to symbolize
style building, provides squash and electrical waves.
tennis courts for its members.
E
U

0 St. Bartholomews
N

W
E

51 Church
V

ST
A

A Byzantine dome sets this

ST
place apart from other
Midtown churches.
K
R
PA

51st Street
subway (line 6)

w Waldorf-Astoria
Old-world elegance has attracted
many famous guests to this hotel,
from movie stars to heads of state.
172  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

2 Trump Tower
725 5th Ave. Map 12 F3. Tel (212)
832-2000. q 5th Ave-53rd St, 5th
Ave-59th St. Garden level Open
10am6pm MonSat, noon5pm
Sun. Building Open 8am10pm daily.
70-=

This glittering, exorbitantly

expensive apartment and office
tower rises above a lavish six-
story atrium. Designed in 1983
by Der Scutt of Swanke, Hayden,
Connell & Partners, the public
Window display at Bergdorf Goodman space has pink marble, mirrors,
(see p311) and glitz throughout. There is
an impressive 80-ft- (24-m-)
1 Fifth Avenue high indoor waterfall, while
Map 12 F3F4. q 5th Ave-53rd St,
the exterior is lined with
5th Ave-59th St. hanging gardens. The tower
is a flamboyant monument to
In 1883, when William Henry affluence by the developer
Vanderbilt built his mansion at Donald Trump, a symbol of the Entrance to Tiany & Co., the exclusive
Fifth Avenue and 51st Street, he excesses and grandeur of the jewelry emporium
started a trend that resulted in 1980s (see p35).
palatial residences stretching as Next door, 727 Fifth Avenue
far as Central Park, built for top is a complete contrast: the 3 IBM Building
families such as the Astors, location of Tiffany & Co., the 590 Madison Ave. Map 12 F3.
Belmonts, and Goulds. Only a prestigious jewelers founded q 5th Ave. Garden Plaza
few remain to attest to the in 1837. Famed for exquisite Open 8am10pm daily. 7
grandeur of the era. window displays, the store
One of these is the Cartier uses understated but elegant Completed in 1983, this 43-story
store at 651 Fifth Avenue, once blue packaging as a status tower was designed by Edward
the home of Morton F. Plant, symbol in itself. Tiffanys was Larrabee Barnes. It is a sleek,
millionaire and commodore immortalized by Truman five-sided prism of gray-green
of the New York Yacht Club. Capote in his 1958 novel polished granite, with a
As retailers swept north up the Breakfast at Tiffanys. cantilevered corner at 57th
avenue a trend that Street. The Garden
began in 1906 Plaza, with its
society gradually bamboo trees, is
moved uptown. In open to the public
1917, Plant moved to and has been
a mansion at 86th redubbed The
Street, and legend Sculpture Garden.
has it that he traded Eight new works,
his old home to which change four
Pierre Cartier for a times a year, are on
perfectly matched view at any one time.
string of pearls. Near the atrium is a
Fifth Avenue has work by American
been synonymous sculptor Michael
with luxury goods Heizer, entitled
ever since. From Levitated Mass. Inside
Cartier at 52nd Street a low, stainless-steel
to Henri Bendel at tank is a huge slab of
56th and Tiffany and granite that seems to
Bergdorf Goodman float on air.
at 57th, you will find On the corner
many brands of 57th Street and
symbolizing wealth Madison Avenue
and social standing is Saurien, a bright-
today, just as Astor orange abstract
and Vanderbilt did sculpture by
over a century ago. Interior of the Trump Tower atrium Alexander Calder.

4 St. Thomas
Church
1 W 53rd St. Map 12 F4. Tel (212) 757-
7013. q 5th Ave-53rd St. Open
7am6pm daily. 5 frequent. ^ 7
8 after 11am service & concerts.
saintthomaschurch.org
This is the fourth home for this
parish and the second on this
site. Todays church was built
between 1909 and 1914 to
replace an earlier structure
destroyed in a fire in 1905.
The previous building had
provided the setting for many
of the glittering high-society
weddings of the late 19th
century. The most lavish of
these was in 1895, when heiress
Consuelo Vanderbilt married the
English Duke of Marlborough.
The limestone building,
in French-Gothic style, has
a single asymmetrical tower
and an off-center nave, novel
solutions to the architectural
problems posed by its corner
position. The richly carved,
shimmering white screens
behind the altar were designed
by architect Bertram Goodhue
and sculptor Lee Lawrie.
Carvings in the choir stalls,
dating from the 1920s, include
modern inventions such as
the telephone, presidents
Roosevelt and Wilson, and
Lee Lawrie himself.
5 Museum of
Modern Art
See pp1747.
6 American Folk
Art Museum
45 W 53rd St. Map 12 F4. Tel (212)
265-1040. q 5th Ave- 53rd St.
Open noon7:30pm TueSat,
noon6pm Sun. & 7 8 - =
folkartmuseum.org
The permanent home for
the appreciation and study of
American folk art is here, in the
first free-standing art museum
built in New York since 1966.
Designed by the innovative
architectural firm of Tod Williams
Billie Tsien & Associates and
built in 2001, the structure is
UPPER MIDTOWN
The Beatles Paul, Ringo, and John on The Ed Sullivan Show in 1964
clad in panels of white tombasil,
a white bronze alloy. The
museum has 30,000 sq ft
(2,787 sq m) of exhibition space
on eight levels. The museum
still retains the Eva and Morris
Feld Gallery at the Lincoln
Square location (see p215).
The American Folk Art Museum
7 Paley Center for
Media
25 W 52nd St. Map 12 F4. Tel (212)
621-6800. q 5th Ave-53rd
St. Open noon6pm Wed
Sun (to 8pm Thu). Closed
public hols. & ^ 7 8
= paleycenter.org
In this one-of-a-kind
repository museum, visitors
can watch and listen to
news and a collection of
entertainment and sports
documentaries from radio
and televisions earliest
days to the present. Pop
fans can see the early
 173
Beatles or a young Elvis Presley
making his television debut.
Sports enthusiasts can relive
classic Olympic competitions.
World War II footage might be
chosen by students of history
or by those who lived through
the war. Six choices at any
one time can be selected
from a computer catalog that
covers a library of over 50,000
programs. The selections are
then played on small private
areas. There are larger
screening areas and a theater
for 200, where retrospectives of
artists and directors are shown.
There are also photo exhibits
and memorabilia.
The museum was the brain-
child of William S. Paley, a former
head of the CBS TV network. It
opened in 1975 as the Museum
of Broadcasting on East 53rd
Street. It proved so popular
that in 1991 it moved into this
hi-tech $50 million home in a
building reminiscent
of an antique
radio set.
1960s television star Lucille Ball
174  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

5 Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)

MoMA contains one of the worlds most
comprehensive collections of modern art.
Founded in 1929, it set the standard for
museums of its kind. Following an expansion
program, MoMA in Midtown reopened in 2004.
The renovated building provides gallery space
over six floors, almost twice that of the old
museum. Expanses of glass allow abundant
natural light both to penetrate inside the
building and to bathe the sculpture garden.
Museum facade on 54th Street

Gallery Guide
The sculpture garden is on the first floor. The
contemporary art, print, and media galleries are
on the second floor. Painting and sculpture are
exhibited on the second, fourth, and fifth floors.
Architecture and design, photography, and
drawings are all on the third floor. Changing
exhibitions are displayed on the third and sixth
floors. Films are shown on the lower level.
Christinas World (1948)
Andrew Wyeth contrasts an
overwhelming horizon with the
minutely-studied surroundings
of his disabled neighbor.

Third floor

Second
floor

Sculpture Garden
The Abby A. Rockefeller Sculpture
Garden has a peaceful atmosphere. First floor

Main
entrance
 MUSEUM OF MODERN ART  175

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Sixth
floor Practical Information
11 West 53rd St btw Fifth Ave &
Ave of the Americas.
Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 708-9400.
Open 10:30am5:30pm Wed
Mon (8pm Fri). Closed Thanks-
Fifth giving, Dec 25. 9 8 groups.
floor & free 48pm Fri. 7 =
- 0 moma.org

Transport
q 5th Ave-53rd St. @ M15,
Fourth floor
M50, Q32.

Anna Zborowska (1917)

The sitters elongated,
mask-like face is
typical of Amedeo
Modiglianis style.

Water Lilies (c.1920)

Claude Monets late triptych is a vast artwork
that creates a glowing, serene environment.

. Les Demoiselles
dAvignon
Anticipating Cubism, this
portrait of five prostitutes,
which Picasso painted
in 1907, was seen as
revolutionary at the time.

Key
Sculpture Garden
Contemporary Art
Media
Prints and Illustrated books
Architecture and Design
Drawings
. Portrait of the Postman
Joseph Roulin (1889) Photography
Van Gogh considered this Paintings and Sculpture
painting of his friend Joseph Special exhibitions
Roulin to be a modern
Non-exhibition space
portrait that used color to
best represent the sitter. Non-accessible space
176  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Collection

The Museum of Modern Art has approximately 150,000 Other notable works include
works of art ranging from Post-Impressionist classics to an Jasper Johns Flag, Robert
unrivaled collection of modern and contemporary art, from Rauschenbergs First Landing
Jump, composed of urban
fine examples of design to early masterpieces of
refuse, and Bed, which consists of
photography and film. bed linen. The Pop Art collection
includes Roy Lichtensteins Girl
is included in with Ball and Drowning Girl, Andy
a strong Warhols famous Gold Marilyn
representation of Monroe, and Claes Oldenburgs
Lissitzky, Malevich, Giant Soft Fan.
and Rodchenko: Works after about 1965 include
De Stijls influence pieces by Judd, Flavin, Serra, and
is seen in paintings Beuys, among many others.
by Piet Mondrian,
such as Broadway
Boogie Woogie.
There is a large
The Persistence of Memory by the Surrealist body of work by
Salvador Dal (1931) Matisse, such as
Dance I and The
Red Studio. Dal, Mir, and
1880s to 1940s Ernst feature among the
Painting and Sculpture bizarre, strangely beautiful
Paul Czannes monumental Surrealist works.
The Bather and Vincent van
Goghs Portrait of the Postman
Joseph Roulin are two of the Postwar Painting
seminal works in the museums and Sculpture
collection of late 19th-century The extensive collection of
painting. Both Fauvism and postwar art includes works by Man with a Hat by Pablo Picasso (1912),
Expressionism are well Bacon and Dubuffet, and has a collage with charcoal
represented with works by a particularly strong represent-
Matisse, Derain, Kirchner, and ation of American artists.
others, while Pablo Picassos The collection of Abstract Drawings and Other
Les Demoiselles dAvignon Expressionist art, for example, Works on Paper
marks a transition to the Cubist includes Jackson Pollocks One More than 7,000 artworks
style of painting. [Number 31, 1950], Willem de ranging in size from tiny
The collection also has Koonings Women, I, Arshile preparatory pieces to large
an unparalleled number of Gorkys Agony, and Red, Brown, mural-sized works are among
Cubist paintings, providing an and Black by Mark Rothko. MoMAs holdings. Many
overview of a movement drawings use conventional
that radically challenged materials, such as pencil,
our perception of the charcoal, pen and ink,
world. Among the vast pastel, and watercolor.
range are Picassos However, there are also
Girl with a Mandolin, collages and mixed-media
Georges Braques Man works composed of paper
with a Guitar and Soda, ephemera, natural products,
and Guitar and Flowers and man-made goods.
by Juan Gris. Works by The collection provides
the Futurists, who an overview of Modernism,
brought color and from the late 19th century
movement to Cubism to to the present day, including
depict the dynamic movements such as Cubism,
modern world, include Dadaism, and Surrealism.
Dynamism of a Soccer Drawings by famous and
Player by Umberto well-established artists, such
Boccioni, plus works by as Picasso, Mir, and Johns, are
Balla, Carr, and Villon. exhibited alongside a growing
The geometric abstract The Bather, an oil painting by French Impressionist number of works by talented
art of the Constructivists Paul Czanne emerging artists.

American Indian Theme II by Roy
Lichtenstein (1980)
Prints and
Illustrated Books
All significant art movements
from the 1880s onward are
represented in this extensive
collection, which provides a
fascinating overview of printed
art. With more than 50,000
items in the departments
holdings, there are wide-
ranging examples of historical
and contemporary printmaking.
Works created in such
traditional media as etchings,
lithographic prints, screenprints,
and woodcuts are displayed
alongside pieces created using
more experimental techniques.
There are some particularly
fine examples of works by
Andy Warhol, who is widely
considered to be the most
important printmaker of the
20th century. There are also
many illustrations and prints
by other artists including
Redon, Munch, Matisse,
Dubuffet, Johns, Lichtenstein,
Freud, and Picasso.
Photography
The photography collection
begins with the invention of
the medium around 1840.
It includes pictures by fine
artists, journalists, scientists,
and entrepreneurs, as well
as amateur photographers.
Among the highlights
of the collection
are some of the
best-known
works by American
and European
photographers including
Atget, Stieglitz, Lange,
Arbus, Steichen, Cartier-
Bresson, and Kertesz.
There is also a range of
MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
Film Department
With a collection of over 22,000
films and four million stills, the
collection can offer a wide range
of programs, including
retrospectives of individual
directors and actors, films
in specific genres and
experimental work, as well
as a broad range of other
exhibitions. Film conservation is
a key part of the departments
work. Todays top directors are
donating copies of their films to
help fund this expensive but
vital work.
Sunday on the Banks of the Marne, photographed by Henri
Cartier-Bresson in 1939
contemporary practitioners,
most notably Friedlander,
Sherman, and Nixon.
The photographers have
covered an extensive variety
of subject matter in both colour through photographs, scale
and black and white: delicate
landscapes, scenes of urban
desolation, abstract imagery,
and stylish portraiture, including
some beautiful silver-gelatin
print nudes by the French
Surrealist Man Ray. Together,
they form a complete history
of photographic art and
represent one of the finest
collections in existence.
Reclining rocking chair of steam-bent beech and cane by Gebrder Thonet (c.1880)
 177
Film still of Charlie Chaplin and Jackie
Coogan in The Kid (1921)
Architecture
and Design
The Museum
of Modern Art
was the first
art museum to
include utilitarian
objects in its
collection. These
range from
household
appliances such
as stereo
equipment, furniture, lighting,
textiles, and glassware to
industrial ball bearings and
silicon chips. Architecture is
represented in the collection
models, and drawings of
buildings that have been or
might have been built.
Graphic design is shown
in typography and posters.
Larger exhibits that look as
if they belong in a museum
of transportation include a
Willys-Overland Jeep and
the Bell helicopter, which
dates from 1945.
178  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
8 St. Patricks
Cathedral
See pp18081.
9 Villard Houses
457 Madison Ave (New York Palace
Hotel). Map 13 A4. Tel (800) NY
PALACE. q 51st St. newyork
palace.com Municipal Art Sociey
Urban Center: Open 10am7pm
MonThu, 10am6pm Fri,
10am5:30pm Sat. Tel (212) 935 3960.
7 = mas.org
Henry Villard was a Bavarian
immigrant who became
publisher of the New York
Evening Post and founder of
the Northern Pacific Railroad.
In 1881, he bought the land
opposite St. Patricks Cathedral
and hired McKim, Mead & White
to design town houses on the
site. The inspired result has six
four-story houses set round a
central court opening to the
street and the church, though
financial difficulties forced Villard
to sell and ownership passed to
the Roman Catholic archdiocese.
When the church outgrew its
space in the 1970s, the houses
were saved when the Helmsley
chain purchased air rights for
the 51-story Helmsley (now
New York) Palace Hotel.
The center wing comprises
the hotels formal entrance
and the Villard Bar & Lounge.
The Municipal Art Society
Urban Center occupies the north
wing, and its bookshop is the
best place in New York for
architectural books on the city.
The Municipal Art Society also
organizes excellent
architectural tours,
from Harlem to
Brooklyn and
Staten
Island.
Villard Houses, now the entrance to the New York Palace Hotel
easy task, but
St. Bartholomews Church
0 St. Bartholomews
Church
109 E 50th St. Map 13 A4. Tel (212)
378-0222. q 51st St. Open
8am6pm daily (to 7:30pm Thu &
8:30pm Sun). 5 frequent. 7
lectures, concerts. = 8 after 11am
Sunday services. 0 (212) 888-2664.
stbarts.org
Known fondly to New Yorkers
as St. Barts, this Byzantine
structure with its ornate detail,
pinkish brick, open terrace, and
a polychromed gold dome
brought color and variety
to Park Avenue in 1919.
Architect Bertram Goodhue
incorporated into the design
the Romanesque entrance
portico created by Stanford
White for the original 1903
St. Bartholomews on Madison
Avenue, and marble columns
from the earlier church were
used in the chapel.
St. Bartholomews program
of concerts is well-known,
as is its theater
group, which
mounts three
productions
here each
year.
q General Electric
Building
570 Lexington Ave. Map 13 A4. q
Lexington Ave. Closed to the public.
In 1931 architects Cross & Cross
were commissioned to design
a skyscraper that would be in
keeping with its neighbor,
St. Bartholomews
Church. Not an
the result won
unanimous
acclaim. The
colors were
chosen to blend
and contrast,
and the design
of the tower
complemented
the churchs
polychrome
The General Electric Building on
Lexington Avenue
dome. View the pair from the
corner of Park and 50th to see
how well it works. However,
the General Electric is no mere
backdrop but a work of art in
its own right and a favorite part
of the city skyline. It is an Art
Deco gem from its chrome and
marble lobby to its spiky radio
waves crown.
Walk one block north on
Lexington Avenue to find a place
much cherished by movie fans.
It is right at this spot that Marilyn
Monroe, in a billowing white
frock, stood so memorably in
the breeze from the Lexington
Avenue subway grating in the
movie The Seven-Year Itch.

w Waldorf-Astoria
301 Park Ave. Map 13 A5. Tel (212)
355-3000. q Lexington Ave, 53rd St.
See Where to Stay p287.
waldorfnewyork.com
This Art Deco classic, which
covers an entire city block, was
designed by Schultze & Weaver
in 1931. The original Hotel at
34th Street was demolished to
make way for the Empire State
Building. Still deservedly one
of New Yorks most prestigious
hotels, the Waldorf-Astoria
serves, too, as a reminder of
a more glamorous era in the
citys history. The 625-ft (190-m)
twin towers, where the Duke
and Duchess of Windsor lived,
have hosted numerous
celebrities, including every
US president since 1931. The
giant lobby clock, executed
for the Chicago Worlds Fair
of 1893, is from the original
hotel, and the piano in the
Peacock Alley cocktail lounge
belonged to Cole Porter when
he was a resident of the hotels
exclusive Towers.
Winston Churchill and New York
philanthropist Grover Whalen at the
Waldorf-Astoria in 1946
e Lever House
390 Park Ave. Map 13 A4.
q 5th Ave-53rd St. Lobby and
building: Closed to the public. 0
Imagine a Park Avenue lined
with sturdy, residential buildings
and then imagine the sensation
when they were suddenly
reflected here in the first of the
citys glass-walled skyscrapers,
one of the most influential
buildings of the modern era. The
design, by Skidmore, Owings &
Merrill, is simply two rectangular
slabs of stainless steel and glass,
one laid horizontally, the other
UPPER MIDTOWN
Lever House on Park Avenue
stacked to stand tall above it,
to allow light in from every side.
The crisp and bright design was
intended to symbolize many of
the Lever Brothers products
they make soaps and other
cleaning products.
Revolutionary though it
was in 1952, Lever House is
now dwarfed by its many
imitators, but its importance
as an architectural pacesetter
remains undiminished. The Casa
Lever restaurant is a VIP scene.
r Seagram
Building
375 Park Ave. Map 13 A4.
q 5th Ave-53rd St.
Open 9am5pm MonFri.
0 See Where to Eat p300.
Samuel Bronfman, the late
head of Seagram distillers, was
prepared to put up an ordinary
commercial building until his
architect daughter, Phyllis
Lambert, intervened and
persuaded him to go to the
best Mies van der Rohe.
The result, which is widely
considered the finest of the
The pool at the Four Seasons
in the Seagram Building
 179
many Modernist buildings
of the 1950s, consists of two
rectangles of bronze and glass
that let the light pour in.
Within is the exclusive Four
Seasons Restaurant (see p300),
a landmark in its own right.
Designer Philip Johnson has
created a remarkable space,
with the centerpiece of one
room a pool, and another a bar
topped by a quivering Richard
Lippold sculpture.
Oce workers at lunch in the spacious
Citigroup Center atrium
t Citigroup Center
153 E 53rd St. Map 13 A4. q 53rd
St-Lexington Ave. Open 7am11pm
daily. 0 = St. Peters Lutheran
Church 619 Lexington Ave. Tel (212)
935-2200. Open 9am9pm daily.
5 12:15pm MonFri, 6pm Wed,
8:45am & 11am Sun. Jazz vespers 5pm
Sun. Concerts noon Wed. York Theater
at St. Peters; Tel (212) 935-5820.
saintpeters.org
An aluminum-clad spire built on
10-story stilts with a sliced-off
roof, Citigroup Center is unique; it
caused a sensation when it was
completed in 1978. The unusual
base design had to incorporate
St. Peters Lutheran Church. The
church is separate both in space
and design, a granite sculpture
below a corner of the tower.
Step inside to see the striking
interior and the Erol Beker
Chapel by sculptor Louise
Nevelson. The church is well-
known for its organ concerts,
jazz vespers, and theater
presentations. Citigroups
slanting top never functioned
as a solar panel as intended, but
it is an unmistakable landmark
on the skyline.
180  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

8 St. Patricks Cathedral . Lady Chapel

This chapel honors the
The Roman Catholic Church originally intended Blessed Virgin. The
this site for use as a cemetery, but in 1850 stained-glass windows
portray the mysteries of
Archbishop John Hughes decided to build a the rosary.
cathedral instead. Many thought that it was
foolish to build so far beyond the (then) city
limits, but Hughes went ahead anyway.
Architect James Renwick built New Yorks finest
Gothic Revival building, one of the largest
Catholic cathedrals in the US. The cathedral,
which seats 2,500 people, was completed
in 1878, though the spires were added
between 1885 and 1888.

Piet
American
sculptor William
O. Partridge
created this
Piet in 1906.
The statue
stands at the
side of the
Lady Chapel.

The cathedrals Fifth

Avenue facade

. Baldachin
The great baldachin rising
over the high altar is made Stations of the Cross
entirely of bronze. Statues Carved of Caen stone in Holland,
of the saints and prophets these reliefs won first prize in the
adorn the four piers field of religious art at the Chicago
supporting the canopy. Worlds Fair in 1893.
 UPPER MIDTOWN  181

Saint Elizabeth Ann

Seton Shrine
The bronze statue and
screen depict the life of
the first American to be
canonized a saint. She
founded the Sisters of
Charity (see p78).
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
5th Ave and 50th St.
Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 753-2261.
Open 6:30am8:45pm daily.
5 frequent MonSat; 7, 8, 9,
10:15am & noon, 1, 4 (in Spanish)
& 5:30pm Sun. 7 = Concerts,
recitals, lectures.
saintpatrickscathedral.org

Transport
q 6 to 51st St; E, V to Fifth Ave.
@ M15, M50, Q32.

. Great Organ and

Rose Window
Measuring 26 ft (8 m) in diameter,
the rose window shines above the
great organ, which has more than
7,000 pipes.

. Great Bronze Doors

The massive doors weigh 20,000 lb
(9,000 kg) and are adorned with
important religious figures.

KEY

1 The Cathedral Facades exterior

wall is built of white marble. The
spires rise 330 ft (101 m) above
the pavement.
Main entrance 2 Crypt
3 Lady of Guadalupe
182  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Banded
y Central The stenciled interior is a colorful
mix of red, blue, ocher, and gilt and horseshoe
Synagogue was inspired by Victorian prints of a arches are an
Moorish palace in Spain called Hispano-
652 Lexington Ave. Map 13 A4. the Alhambra. Mooresque
Tel (212) 8385122. q Lexington design.
Ave-53rd St. Open noon2pm
Tue & Wed. 8 12:45pm Wed. 7 u
6pm Fri, also 10am Sat (Jul & Aug),
10.30am Sat (SepJun).
centralsynagogue.org

This is New Yorks

oldest building in
continuous use as
a synagogue. It was
designed in 1870 by
Silesian-born Henry
Fernbach, Americas
first prominent Jewish
architect. He also
designed some of
SoHos finest cast-iron
buildings. Restored
after a 1999 fire, the
Synagogue is considered
the citys best example The ark holds the
of Moorish-Islamic sacred scrolls of the
Revival architecture. Jewish Holy Book,
The Torah.
The congregation was
founded in 1846 as Ahawath
Chesed (Love of Mercy)
The twin towers represent the two
by 18 immigrants, most columns that stood outside Solomons
The facade is
of them from Bohemia, an understated Temple. The domed minarets, which
on Ludlow Street on the Moorish design rise 122 ft (37 m), are onion-shaped
Lower East Side. in local brownstone. and made of green copper.

u Sutton Place
Map 13 C3. q 59th St, 51st St.
@ M15, M31, M57.
Sutton Place is a posh and
pleasant neighborhood,
delightfully devoid of busy
traffic, made up of elegant
low-rise apartment houses and
town houses designed by
noted architects. The arrival of
New York society in the 1920s
transformed an area that had
once been the province of
factories and tenements. Three
Sutton Square is the residence
of the secretary-general of the
United Nations. Look beyond
Sutton Square and 59th Street
for a glimpse of Riverview
Terrace, a private street of
five ivy-covered brownstones
fronting on the river. The tiny
parks at the end of 55th Street
and jutting out at 57th Street
offer views of the river and the
Queensboro Bridge.
After much neighborhood
opposition, Bridgemarket
opened in 2000. Located
between the huge vaults under
the Queensboro Bridge, there
is an upscale Terence Conrans
for housewares and a Food
Emporium supermarket.

i Beekman Place
Map 13 C5. q 59th St, 51st St.
@ M15, M50.

Smaller than Sutton Place, and

even more tranquil, is Beekman
Place, a virtually private two-
block enclave of 1920s town
Park at Sutton Place, looking toward Queensboro Bridge and Roosevelt Island houses and small-scale

apartments. Famous residents
here have included Gloria
Vanderbilt, Rex Harrison, Irving
Berlin, and members of the
large Rockefeller family.
At Turtle Bay Gardens, restored
brownstone houses dating from
the 1860s hide a charming
Italianate garden. Among the
residents enticed by this privacy
have been the film stars Tyrone
Power and Katharine Hepburn,
composer Stephen Sondheim,
and writer E.B. White.
o Roosevelt Island
Map 14 D2. q 59th St. Tram,
Roosevelt Island station (F).
rioc.com
Since 1976, a Swiss cable car
departing from Second Avenue
at 60th Street has offered a
quick, thrilling ride across the
East River to Roosevelt Island,
with eagle-eye views of the
city and the Queensboro Bridge.
The island is now also serviced
by the F subway line.
Near the tram station are
the remains of the Blackwell
farmhouse, which stood from
1796 to 1804 and gave the
island its name until real estate
development began in the
1920s. From then until the
1970s, the island housed a
succession of hospitals, an
almshouse, a jail, a workhouse,
and an insane asylum, and
became known as Welfare
Island. In 1927, Mae West was
held in the penitentiary here
after a lewd performance.
The ruins of 19th-century
hospitals still remain, as does
an 1872 lighthouse built by
an asylum inmate.
The clock statues above the Fuller Building entrance
UPPER MIDTOWN
Bloomingdales store sign
p Bloomingdales
1000 3rd Ave. Map 13 A3. Tel (212)
705-2000. q 59th St. Open 10am
8:30pm MonFri, 10am7pm Sat,
11am7pm Sun. See Shopping p311.
bloomingdales.com
For a while in the booming
1980s, Bloomies was
synonymous with the good life.
Founded by Joseph and Lyman
Bloomingdale in 1872, this
famous department store had
a bargain-basement image until
the 3rd Avenue El was taken
down in the 1960s. Then came
the stores transformation to the
epitome of trendy, sophisticated
shopping. But the late 1980s
brought new ownership and
eventual bankruptcy. While
not as flashy as in the past,
Bloomingdales is open every
day and remains one of the citys
best-stocked stores. Downtown
shoppers can head to the SoHo
location, at 504 Broadway.
a Fuller Building
41 E 57th St. Map 13 A3. Peter Findlay
Gallery. Tel (212) 644-4433; James
Goodman Gallery. Tel (212) 593-3737.
Open 10am6pm TueSat. q 59th St.
This slim-towered black, gray,
and white 1929 beauty by
Walker & Gillette is a prime
example of geometric Art Deco
design. The striking statues on
either side of the clock
above the entrance are
by Elie Nadelman. Step
inside to admire the
intricate mosaic
tile floors;
one panel
shows the
Fuller
Companys
former
home in
the famous
Flatiron
Building on
 183
Fifth Avenue (see p129). The Fuller
Building is a hive of exclusive art
galleries, most of which are
open to the public daily.
French Renaissance-style facade of the
Plaza Hotel
s Plaza Hotel
5th Ave & Central Park South.
Map 12 F3. q Fifth Ave-59th St.
theplaza.com
The citys grande dame of
hotels was designed by Henry
J. Hardenbergh, known for
the Dakota (see p220) and
the original Waldorf-Astoria.
Completed in 1907 at the
exorbitant cost of $12.5 million,
the Plaza was proclaimed the
best hotel in the world, with
800 rooms, 500 baths, a two-
story ballroom, five marble
staircases, and 14- to 17-room
apartments for such families
as the Vanderbilts and the
Goulds (see p51).
The 18-story cast-iron
structure resembles a French
Renaissance chteau. Much
of the interior decoration came
from Europe. The Palm Court
still has mirrored walls and
Italian carvings of the four
seasons, and is a lovely place
for afternoon tea.
Already lavishly restored by
its former owner Donald Trump,
the building underwent a
$400-million conversion into
a mix of apartments, hotel
condominiums, and a 282-
room hotel. There are also
six floors of luxury retail and
upscale dining, including a
gourmet food hall.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  185

UPPER EAST SIDE

At the turn of the century, New York society Madison Avenue. Farther east, the area
moved to the Upper East Side and stayed. includes what is left of German Yorkville in
Many of the Beaux Arts mansions in this the East 80s, Hungarian Yorkville to the south,
district are now museums and embassies, and little Bohemia, with its Czech population,
but the well-to-do still occupy the grand below 78th Street. Although many of these
apartment buildings on Fifth and Park ethnic groups no longer inhabit the area, their
avenues. Chic shops and galleries line churches, restaurants, and shops still remain.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Churches and Synagogues Restaurants see pp3001
0 Park Avenue Armory q Temple Emanu-El 1 Beyoglu
r Henderson Place u Church of the Holy Trinity 2 Brother Jimmys BBQ
y Gracie Mansion i St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox 3 Caf Boulud
Museums and Galleries Cathedral 4 Caf dAlsace
1 Neue Galerie New York Parks and Squares 5 Caf Sabarsky
104EAST 6 Daniel
2 Jewish Museum t Carl Schurz Park TH
ST
3 Cooper-Hewitt National
7 David Burke Townhouse
10 EAST
Design Museum
2N
DS 8 Flex Mussels
T

4 National Academy Museum

9 Maya
5 Solomon R. Guggenheim
10 Sasabune
Museum pp19091 98 EAST 11 Sfoglia
TH

6 Metropolitan Museum of Art

ST 12 Shanghai Pavilion
UE

pp1929 EA
EN

ST
EA 96
7 Whitney Museum of American ST
AV

TH
EA ST
Art pp2023 ST 95
TH
96th St
EA 6
8 Frick Collection pp2045 ST 94
TH ST
H

RE
EA 93 ET
FT

9 Asia Society ST RD ST
RE
ET
FI

EA 92
w Society of Illustrators ST ND ST
RE
ET
91
e Mount Vernon Hotel Museum EA
ST
ST ST
RE
ET
ST
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and Garden
UE

ET 0 meters 500
E

90
EN

o Museum of the City of

U

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TH
0 yards 500
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AV

EA
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New York ST
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86th St ST TH
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See also Street Finder maps

12, 13, 1618, 21

Brightly lit facade of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum For keys to symbols see back flap
186  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street:
Museum Mile
Many of New Yorks museums are clustered
on the Upper East Side, in homes ranging
from the former Frick and Carnegie mansions
to the modernistic Guggenheim, designed by
Frank Lloyd Wright. The displays are as varied
as the architecture, running the gamut from 2 Jewish Museum
Old Masters to photographs to decorative The most extensive collection of Judaica in
the world is housed here. It includes coins,
arts. Presiding over the scene is the vast archaeological objects, and ceremonial and
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New Yorks religious artifacts.
answer to Pariss Louvre. Some of the museums
stay open late one day a week.

3. Cooper-Hewitt
National Design Museum
Ceramics, glass, furniture
and textiles are well 93
represented here. RD
ST
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91
ST
IL

ST
M
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U
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89
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TH
M

The Church of the Heavenly ST

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U
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U

EN

Gothic style. The madonna in

EN

the pulpit is by sculptor

V
V

Malvina Hoffman.
A

N
H

O
FT

IS
FI

D
A

4 National Academy Museum

M

The Academy, founded in 1825,

moved here in 1940. Its fine
collection includes paintings
and sculptures by its members.

Graham House is an
apartment building
with a splendid Beaux
Arts entrance. It was
built in 1892.

5. Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

Architect Frank Lloyd Wrights building,
which is in the form of a spiral, is floodlit at
dusk. The best way to see one of the worlds
premier collections of modern art is to take
the elevator to the top and walk down.
 UPPER EAST SIDE  187

The facade of the UPPER

WEST SIDE
East Side
Squadron A Armory is all
that remains of the original
building. It is now the west
CENTRAL
wall of the playground PARK
UPPER
of Hunter High School. EAST SIDE
The school was built to

I.
elt
complement the style

ev
The William G.

os
UPPER Queens
of the armory.

Ro
MIDTOWN
Loew Mansion
(1931), now part of Locator Map
the Spence School, See Manhattan Map pp1617
is in the American
Adams style. Key
Suggested route

Public 0 meters 100

basketball 0 yards 100

court
To 96th Street
subway (2 blocks)

The Synod of Bishops of

the Russian Orthodox
Church Outside of
Russia is housed in a
lovely 1918 mansion.
E
U
EN
V
A
RK
PA

Night Presence IV (1972), a

modern work in rusting steel,
was created by Louise
E

Nevelson. Some New

U

Yorkers feel it is out

EN

of place among
V
A

its staid, old-

N

fashioned
TO

neighbors on
G

Park Avenue.
IN
X
LE

At 120 and 122 East 92nd Street

are two of the few wooden
houses left in Manhattan. Built in
1859 and 1871, respectively, they
have a charming Italianate air.

The Marx Brothers spent their

boyhoods in a three-bedroom
apartment in a modest row house
at 179 East 93rd Street.
188  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

1 Neue Galerie Jewish fine and ceremonial

New York
1048 5th Ave at E 86th St. Map 16 F3.
Tel (212) 628-6200. q 86th St. @
M14. Open 11am6pm ThuMon.
Closed public hols. & 9 ^ 0
Caf 9am6pm daily (to 9pm Thu
Sun). = 7 neuegalerie.org
This museum was founded by
art dealer Serge Sabarsky and
philanthropist Ronald Lauder.
Its objective is to collect,
research, and exhibit the fine
and decorative arts of Germany
and Austria from the early
20th century.
The Louis XIII-style Beaux Arts
structure was completed in
1914 by Carrre & Hastings,
who also designed the New
York Public Library (see p148).
The building, a designated
landmark, is considered one
of the most distinguished
buildings on Fifth
Avenue. Once
occupied by Mrs.
Cornelius Vanderbilt
III, the mansion was
purchased by Lauder and
Sabarsky in 1994. The ground
floor houses the entrance,
a bookshop, and the Caf
Sabarsky, which draws its
inspiration from the Viennese
cafs of old and also plays host
to chamber, cabaret, and classical
music concerts. The second floor
is devoted to the works of Klimt,
Schiele, and Wiener Werksttte
objects. The upper floors feature
works from Der Blaue Reiter
(artists such as Klee, Kandinsky),
the Bauhaus (Feininger,
Schlemmer), and Die Brcke
(Mies van der Rohe, Breuer).
art, and historical Judaica. The
stonework in an extension is
by the stonemasons of St. John
the Divine (see pp2289).
Objects have been brought
here from all over the world,
some at great risk of persecution
to the donors. Covering
4,000 years, artifacts include
Torah crowns, candelabras,
kiddush cups, plates, scrolls, and
silver ceremonial objects.
There is a Torah ark from
the Benguiat Collection, the
exquisite faience entrance wall
of a 16th-century Persian
synagogue, and the powerful
Holocaust by sculptor George
Segal. Changing exhibitions
reflect Jewish life and
experience around
the world.
19th-century ewer and basin from Istanbul
at the Jewish Museum
3 Cooper-Hewitt
National Design
Museum
2 E 91st St. Map 16 F2. Tel (212) 849-
8400. q 86th St, 96th St. @ M14.
Open 10am5pm MonSat (to 6pm
Sat), 11am6pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & ^ 7 8
= - cooperhewitt.org
Cooper-Hewitt Museum entrance
the house set new trends with
central heating, private elevator,
and air-conditioning. Note
the wooden staircase, rich
paneling and carving, and
the sunny solarium.
The museum is due to reopen
in 2014 after renovations.
4 National
Academy Museum
1083 5th Ave. Map 16 F3. Tel (212)
369-4880. q 86th St. @ M14.
Open 11am6pm WedSun.
Closed public hols. & ^ 7 =
nationalacademy.org
Over 6,000 paintings, drawings,
and sculptures, including works
by Thomas Eakins, Winslow
Homer, and Frank Lloyd Wright,
comprise the collection of the
National Academy Museum,
founded in 1825 by a group of
artists. The groups mission was
(and is) to train artists and
exhibit their work.
In 1940, Archer Huntington,
an art patron and philan-
thropist, donated his house,
an attractive building with
patterned marble floors. The
grand entrance foyer has a
statue of Diana by sculptor
Anna Hyatt Huntington.

One of the largest design

2 Jewish Museum
1109 5th Ave. Map 16 F2. Tel (212)
423-3200. q 86th St, 96th St. @
M14. Open 11am5:45pm ThuTue
(to 8pm Thu, to 4pm Fri). Closed
public & Jewish hols. & ^ 7 8
- = thejewishmuseum.org
The exquisite chteau-like
residence of Felix M. Warburg,
financier and leader of the
Jewish community, was
designed by C. P. H. Gilbert in
1908. It now houses one of the
worlds largest collections of
collections in the world, this
museum occupies the former
home of industrialist Andrew
Carnegie. The collection was
amassed by the Hewitt sisters,
Amy, Eleanor, and Sarah. The
museum opened in 1897
at Cooper Union (see p122);
the Smithsonian Institution
acquired the collections in 1967,
and the Carnegie Corporation
offered the mansion.
Carnegie asked for the most
modest, plainest, and most Statue of Diana in the National Academy
roomy house in New York, but Museum entrance foyer
 UPPER EAST SIDE  189

5 Solomon R. q Temple Emanu-El

Guggenheim 1 E 65th St. Map 12 F2. Tel (212)
Museum 744-1400. q 68th St, 63rd St. Open
10am5pm SunFri (last adm on Fri
See pp19091. 3:30pm), 12:304:45pm Sat. Closed
Jewish hols. u 5:30pm SunThu,
5:15pm Fri, 10:30am Sat. 7 8 =
6 Metropolitan emanuelnyc.org
Museum of Art
See pp1929.
This impressive limestone
edifice of 1929 is one of the
largest synagogues in the
7 Whitney Museum world, with seating for 2,500 in
the main sanctuary alone. It is
of American Art home to the oldest Reform
See pp2023. Entrance hall of the Park Avenue Armory congregation in New York, and
the wealthiest members of
Jewish society worship here.
0 Park Avenue
8 Frick Collection Among the synagogues
See pp2045.
Armory many fine details are the
643 Park Ave. Map 13 A2. Tel (212) bronze doors of the Ark, which
616-3930. q 68th St. 8 10am Tue represent an open Torah scroll.
9 Asia Society & Thu (excluding holidays). ^ 7 The Ark also has stained glass
armoryonpark.org depicting biblical scenes and
725 Park Ave. Map 13 A1. Tel (212)
288-6400. Events: (212) 517-ASIA. showing the tribal signs of the
q 68th St. Open 11am6pm Tue From the War of 1812 through houses of Israel. These signs also
Sun (to 9pm Fri). Closed two world wars, the Seventh appear on a great recessed arch
public hols. & 8 2pm Regiment, an elite corps of that frames a magnificent wheel
TueSat, 6:30pm Fri. gentlemen soldiers from window, the dominant feature
^7=- prominent families, has played a of the Fifth Avenue facade.
asiasociety.org vital role. Within the fortresslike The synagogue stands on the
exterior of their armory are site of the palatial home of Mrs.
Founded by John extraordinary rooms filled with William Astor, the legendary
D. Rockefeller lavish Victorian furnishings, society hostess. Lady Astor
III in 1956 objets dart, and regimental moved to the Upper East
to increase memorabilia. Side after a feud with her
understanding The design by nephew, who lived next
of Asian culture, Charles W. Clinton, door. Her wine cellar and
the society is a a veteran of the three marble fireplaces
forum for 30 regiment, had still remain at the
countries from offices facing Park synagogue.
Japan to Iran, Avenue, with a vast
Central Asia to drill hall stretching
Australia. behind to Lexington
The 1981 Ave. The reception
eight-story rooms include the
building was South Asian Veterans Room and
designed by sculpture at the the Library by Louis
Edward Larrabee Asia Society Comfort Tiffany.
Barnes and is made The drill hall is
of red granite. After a now the site of the
renovation in 2001, the museum Winter Antiques
has increased gallery space. One Show (see p55)
gallery is permanently devoted to and a favorite
Rockefellers own collection of venue for charity
Asian sculptures, amassed by balls. The Armory
him and his wife on frequent hosts many
trips to the East. cultural
Changing exhibits show performances,
a wide variety of Asian arts, from modern
and the society has a full dance to concerts
program of films, dance, by the New York
concerts, and lectures and Philharmonic
a well-stocked bookshop. Orchestra. The Ark at Temple Emanu-El
190  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

5 Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

Home to one of the worlds finest collections of modern and contemporary
art, the building itself is perhaps the museums greatest masterpiece. The
exterior of the museum was beautifully restored in celebration of the 50th
anniversary of the building in 2009. Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the
shell-like facade is a veritable New York landmark. The spiral ramp curves
down and inward from the dome, passing works by major 19th-, 20th-, and
21st-century artists along the way.

Paris Through the Window

The vibrant colors of Marc Chagalls 1913 masterpiece
illumine the canvas, conjuring up images of a magical and
mysterious city where nothing is quite what it appears to be.

Woman Ironing (1904)

A work from Pablo Picassos
Blue Period, this painting is
his quintessential image of Main entrance
hard work and fatigue.

KEY

1 Sackler Center for Arts

Education
2 Small Rotunda
3 Tower
4 Great Rotunda
Yellow Cow (1911) Nude (1917)
5 Caf Franz Marcs late work focused This sleeping figure is typical of
on nature and color. Amedeo Modiglianis stylized work.

Museum Guide
The Great Rotunda features
special exhibitions. The Small
Rotunda shows some of the
museums Impressionist and
Post-Impressionist holdings.
The Tower galleries (also
known as The Annex) hold
exhibitions of work from the
permanent collection, as well
as contemporary pieces. The
permanent collection
is shown on a
rotating basis,
and only parts of
it are on display
at any one time.
Woman with Yellow Hair (1931)
The gentle, voluptuous figure of
Picassos mistress often appears
in his work.
UPPER EAST SIDE  191
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
1071 5th Ave at 89th St. Map 16
F3. Tel (212) 423-3500. Open
10am5:45pm FriWed (7:45pm
Sat). Closed Thksgv, Dec 25. &
donation; free 5:457:45pm Sat.
7 8 9 Lectures, concerts.
- = guggenheim.org
Transport
q 4, 5, 6 to 86th St. @ M14.
Before the Mirror (1876)
In trying to capture the flavor of
19th-century society, Edouard
Manet often used the image
of the courtesan.
Woman Holding a Vase
Fernand Lger incorporated
elements of Cubism into this
work from 1927.
Black Lines (1913)
This is one of Vasily Kandinskys
earliest examples of his work in
non-objective art.
Frank Lloyd Wright
During his lifetime, Wright was
considered the great innovator of
American architecture. Characteristic
of his work are Prairie-style homes and
office buildings of concrete slabs, glass
bricks, and tubing. Wright received the
Guggenheim commission in 1942 and it
was completed after his death in 1959,
his only New York building.
Interior of the Guggenheims Great Rotunda
 192  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

6 Metropolitan Museum of Art

Founded in 1870 by a group of artists
and philanthropists who dreamed of an
American art institution to rival those of
Europe, this collection is thought to be the
most comprehensive in the Western world.
Works date from prehistoric times to the
present. The museum opened here in 1880
and houses collections from all continents. The entrance of the Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Greek and Roman galleries on the first
floor are especially popular.
Ground floor

. Jeanne
Hbuterne (1919)
Amedeo Modiglianis
mistress, Hbuterne,
appears in over 20 of
his works. She killed
herself the day after
he died in 1920.

Mezzanine
floor
Pendant Mask
The kingdom of Benin (now part
of Nigeria) was renowned for its
art. This mask was made in the
Key
16th century.
The American wing
Gallery Guide Art of Africa, Oceania, and
the Americas
Most of the collections are housed
on the two main floors. Works Arms and armor
from 19 curatorial areas are in Egyptian art
the permanent galleries, with European sculpture and
designated sections for temporary decorative arts
exhibitions. Central on the first Greek and Roman art
and second floors are European Medieval art
painting, sculpture, and Modern and Contemporary art
decorative art. The Costume
Robert Lehman Collection
Institute is situated on the ground Seated Man with Harp
level, directly below the Egyptian This statuette was made Special exhibitions
galleries on the first floor. in the Cyclades c.2800 BC. Non-exhibition space

Stairs to
Costume Institute
Main entrance
The Marriage Feast at Cana
This rare 16th-century panel
painting by Juan de Flandes is part
of the Linsky Collection.
M E T R O P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A R T  193
. Portrait of the VISITORS CHECKLIST
Princesse de Broglie
This portrait, painted Practical Information
in 1853, was J.A.D. 1000 Fifth Ave. Map 16 F4.
Ingres last. Tel (212) 535-7710. Open
10am5:30pm MonThu & Sun,
10am9pm Fri & Sat. Closed Jan
1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
&7890-=
Concerts, lectures, classes, sem-
First floor inars, film & video presentations.
metmuseum.org
Transport
q 4, 5, 6 to 86th St. @ M14.
.Byzantine Galleries
This marble panel with a griffin
is from Greece or the Balkans
(c.1250). It is just one of the
pieces on display in the
Byzantine Galleries.
English Armor . Temple of Dendur (15 BC)
This was made for The Roman emperor Augustus built this
Sir George Clifford three-room temple, which is located in
around 1580. the Egyptian Art section.
194  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Metropolitan Museum of Art: Upper Levels

Card Players (1890)
Paul Czanne departed
here from his traditional
landscapes, still lifes, and
portraits to paint this
scene of peasants
intently playing cards.

Roof Garden
Sculpture Garden
These modern sculptures,
on the roof of the Modern
Art wing, are changed
annually.

Gertrude Stein (19056)

This portrait of the American
writer is by Pablo Picasso. The
masklike face is evidence of his
debt to African and Roman art.

First floor Second floor

. Diptych (142530)
Flemish painter Jan van
Eyck was one of the
earliest masters of oil
. Cypresses (1889) painting. These scenes
Vincent van Gogh painted this the of the Crucifixion and
year before he died. The heavy Last Judgment show
brushstrokes and the swirling him to be a forerunner
style mark his later work. of realism, too.
 M E T R O P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A R T  195

Eagle-headed
Winged Being
Pollinating the
Sacred Tree
(about 900 BC)
This relief comes
from an Assyrian
palace.

Third Floor

. Self-portrait (1660)
Rembrandt painted almost
100 self-portraits. This one
shows him at the age of 54.

Key
The American wing
Ancient Near Eastern
and Islamic art
Art of Arab Lands and Asia
Asian art
Drawings, prints, and
photographs
European paintings
European sculpture
and decorative arts
Greek and Roman art
Modern and
Contemporary art
Musical instruments
19th- and early 20th-
century European paintings
and sculptures
Special exhibitions
Astor Court Non-exhibition space

The Astor Court

In 1979, 27 craftspeople from China,
responsible for the care of Souzhous
historic gardens, came to New York to
replicate a Ming-style scholars garden
in the Metropolitan Museum. They used
centuries-old techniques and handmade
tools that had been passed down for
generations. It was the first cultural
exchange between the United States
and the Peoples Republic of China. The
result is a quiet garden for meditation,
a Western parallel to Souzhous Garden
of the Master of the Fishing Nets.
196  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Metropolitan

The treasures of the Met include a vast collection of
American art and more than 2,500 European paintings,
including masterpieces by Rembrandt and Vermeer. There
are also many Islamic exhibits, plus the greatest collection
of Egyptian art outside Cairo.

It holds not only

one of the worlds
finest collections of
American painting
and sculpture but
also of decorative
arts from Colonial
times to the
beginning of the
20th century.
A painted gold funerary mask (10th14th century) from the Highlights range
necropolis of Batn Grande, Peru from elegant Neo-
Classical silver Mysterious in identity and origin,
vessels made by Paul Revere to a rare 5,000-year-old copper head
Art of Africa, Oceania, innovative glassware by Tiffany from the Near East
and the Americas & Co. In the furniture section
Nelson Rockefeller built the are settees, dining chairs, tables, 9th-century BC Assyrian palace
Michael C. Rockefeller Wing bookcases, and desks from of Ashurnasirpal II, stand at the
in 1982 in memory of his son, major centers of American entrance to the Ancient Near
who lost his life on an art- cabinetmaking such as Boston, Eastern galleries. Inside is a
finding expedition in New Newport, and Philadelphia. collection spanning 8,000 years,
Guinea. The wing showcases a Period rooms, with their rich in Iranian bronzes,
superb collection of over 1,600 original decorative woodwork Anatolian ivories and Sumerian
objects from Africa, the islands and furnishings, range from sculptures, and Achaemenian
of the Pacific and the Americas. the saloon hall in which and Sassanian silver and gold.
Among the African works, George Washington celebrated An adjacent area contains
the ivory and bronze sculptures his last birthday to the elegant Islamic art of the 7th to the 19th
from the royal kingdom of Benin prairie-style living room from centuries; glass and metalwork
(Nigeria) are outstanding, as is the the house that Frank Lloyd from Egypt, Syria, and Meso-
wooden sculpture by the Dogon, Wright designed for Francis W. potamia; royal miniatures from
Bamana, and Senufo peoples Little in Wayzata, Minnesota, Persia and Mughal India; 16th-
of Mali. From the Pacific come in 1912. and 17th-century rugs; and an
carvings by the Asmat people of The Charles Engelhard Court 18th-century room from Syria.
New Guinea and decorations and is an indoor sculpture garden
masks from the Melanesian and with large-scale architectural
Polynesian islands. From Mexico elements, including the lovely Arms and Armor
and Central and South America stained-glass and mosaic Mounted knights in full armor
come pre-Columbian gold, loggia from Louis Comfort charge at each other across the
ceramics, and stonework. The Tiffanys Long Island estate and equestrian court here. These
wing also contains fine Native the facade of an 1824 United galleries are a favorite with
American artifacts by the Inuit States Branch Bank that once children and anyone moved
and other groups. stood on Wall Street. by medieval romance or thrilled
by power.
There are suits of armor,
The American Wing Ancient Near Eastern rapiers and sabers with hilts
Gilbert Stuarts portrait of and Islamic Art of precious stones and gold,
George Washington, George Massive stone sculptures firearms inlaid with ivory and
Caleb Binghams Fur Traders of winged, human-headed mother-of-pearl, plus colorful
Descending the Missouri, John animals, once the
Singer Sargents notorious guardians of the
portrait of Madame X, and
the monumental Washington
Crossing the Delaware by
Emanuel Leutze are among the
icons in the American Wing. The pistol of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (16th century)

heraldic banners and
shields. Highlights include
the armor of gentleman-pirate
Sir George Clifford, a favorite of
Queen Elizabeth I. The rainbow-
colored armor of a 14th-century
Japanese shogun and a collection
of Wild West revolvers that once
belonged to gunmaker Samuel
Colt are also exhibited here.
The Old Plum, a Japanese paper screen
from the early Edo period (about 1650)
Asian Art
Many outstanding galleries
contain masterpieces of Chinese,
Japanese, Korean, Indian, and
Southeast Asian art, dating from
the second millennium BC to
the 20th century. A full-scale
Ming-style Chinese scholars
garden was built by
craftspeople from
Souzhou as part of the
first cultural exchange
between the United
States and the
Peoples Republic of
China. The museum
also has one of the
finest collections of
Sung and Yuan paintings
in the world, Chinese
Buddhist monumental
sculptures, fine Chinese
ceramics and jade, and an
important display of the arts
of ancient China.
The full range of Japanese arts
is represented in a breathtaking
suite of 11 galleries featuring
chronological and thematic
displays of Japanese lacquer,
ceramics, painting, sculpture,
textiles, and screens. Indian,
Southeast Asian, and Korean
galleries display superb
sculptures and other arts from
these regions.
M E T R O P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A R T
Costume Institute
The 31,000-piece collection of
costumes and accessories has
expanded by over 23,000 items
under an agreement with the
Brooklyn Museum (see pp2525).
There is no permanent display
due to the fragility of the objects,
but there are two special
exhibitions a year.
The collection spans five
centuries from the 17th century
to the present and is a definitive
compendium of fashionable
dress, from the elaborately
embroidered dresses of the
late 1600s to gowns from the
Napoleonic era. The designs
of Elsa Schiaparelli, Worth, and
Balenciaga are also included,
along with Ballets Russes
costumes and even David
Bowies sequined jockstrap.
The Art of Dress audio tour,
narrated by actress Sarah Jessica
Parker, focuses on how artists
have used clothing to express
identity and power.
The Institute is sophisticated
in its understanding of
conservation techniques, with
a state-of-the-art laboratory.
A 17th-century European
silk-and-satin doublet
Drawings, Prints,
and Photographs
This eclectic gallery regularly
displays selections from the
museums incredible holdings
of drawings, prints, etchings,
and photographs. The drawings
collection is especially rich in
Italian and French art from
 197
Michelangelos studies of a Libyan Sibyl for
the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel (1508)
the 15th to the 19th century.
Specific exhibits of the drawings
in this collection are shown on
a rotating basis because of the
light-sensitive nature of works
on paper.
Highlights among the 11,000
drawings include works by
Michelangelo, Leonardo da
Vinci, Raphael, Ingres, Goya,
Rubens, Rembrandt, Tiepolo,
and Seurat.
The encyclopedic
print collection of
nearly 1.5 million
images and over
14,000 illustrated
books includes
major works by
virtually every
master printmaker,
from an early German
woodcut called Virgin
and Child to some of
Drers most accomplished
works and Goyas The Giant.
Influential gallery-owner
Alfred Stieglitzs donation of
his own extensive collection
of photographs brought
here such gems as Edward
Steichens The Flatiron.
It formed the core of a
photography collection that is
now also particularly strong in
Modernist works dating from
between the world wars.
Ephemera such as posters
and advertisements form
another part of this collection.
198  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Egyptian Art
One of the museums best-loved
areas is the ancient Egyptian
wing, which displays every one
of its thousands of holdings
from the prehistoric period to
the 8th century AD. Objects
range from the fragmented
jasper lips of a 15th-century
BC queen to the massive
Temple of Dendur. Other
amazing archaeological finds,
most of them originating from
museum-sponsored expeditions
undertaken early in the 20th
century, include sculptures
of the notorious Queen
Hatshepsut, who seized the
Theban throne in the 16th
century BC; 100 carved reliefs
of Amenhotep IVs reign; and
tomb figures like the blue
faence hippo that has become
the museums mascot.
Fragment of the
head of a pharoahs queen
European Paintings
The heart of the museum is its
awe-inspiring collection of over
3,000 European paintings. The
Italian works include Botticellis
Last Communion of Saint Jerome
and Bronzinos Portrait of a
Young Man. The Dutch and
Flemish canvases are among
the worlds finest, with
Egyptian Tomb Models
In 1920, a Met researchers light illuminated a room, which had been
closed for 2,000 years, in the tomb of the nobleman Meketre. Within
were 24 tiny, perfect replicas of his daily life: his house and
garden, fleet of ships, and herd of cattle. Meketre is there,
too, on his boat, inhaling a lotuss scent and
enjoying the music of his
singer and harpist. The
museum has 13 of these
delightful replicas.
Young Woman with a Water Jug (1660) by
Johannes Vermeer
Brueghels The Harvesters,
several works by Rubens,
Van Dyck, and Rembrandt,
and more Vermeers than any
other museum. The collection
also has masterpieces by
Spanish artists El Greco,
Velzquez, and Goya, and
by French artists Poussin
and Watteau. Some of the
finest Impressionist and Post-
Impressionist canvases reside
here: 34 Monets, including
Terrace at Sainte-Adresse; 18
Czannes; and several van
Goghs, including Cypresses.
European Sculpture,
and Decorative Arts
In the Kravis wing and
adjacent galleries are
works from the impressive
60,000-object collection
of European sculpture and
decorative arts. The galleries
include exquisite pieces such as
Tullio Lombardos marble statue
of Adam; a bronze statuette of a
rearing horse, after a model by
Leonardo; and dozens of works
by Degas and Rodin. Period
settings include the patio from
a 16th-century Spanish castle
and a series of ornate
18th-century French
domestic interiors known
as the Wrightsman Rooms.
The Petrie European Sculpture
Court features French and
Italian sculpture in a beautiful
garden setting reminiscent of
Versailles in France.
Greek and Roman Art
A Roman sarcophagus from
Tarsus, donated in 1870, was
the first work of art in the Mets
collections. It can still be seen in
the museums Greek and Roman
galleries, along with breath-
taking wall panels from a villa
that was buried under the lava
of Vesuvius in AD 79, Etruscan
mirrors, Roman portrait busts,
exquisite objects in glass
and silver, and hundreds of
Greek vases. A monumental
7th-century BC statue of a
youth shows the movement
toward naturalism in sculpture,
and the Hellenistic Old Market
Woman demonstrates how the
Greeks had mastered realism by
the 2nd century BC.
An amphora by Exekias, showing
a wedding (6th century BC)
Lehman Collection
What had been one of the
the finest private art collections
in the world, that of investment
banker Robert Lehman, came
to the museum in 1969. The
Lehman Wing is a dramatic
glass pyramid housing
an extraordinarily varied
collection rich in Old Masters
and 19th-century French
paintings, drawings, bronzes,

A panel from the stained-glass Death of the Virgin window, from the 12th-century cathedral
of Saint Pierre in Troyes, France
Renaissance majolica, Venetian
glass, furniture, and enamels.
Among the canvases are works
by North European masters;
Dutch and Spanish paintings,
French masterworks, Post-
Impressionists and Fauves.
Medieval Art
The Metropolitans medieval
collection includes works
dating from the 4th to the 16th
century, roughly from the fall of
Rome to the beginning of the
Renaissance. The collection is
split between the main
museum and its uptown
branch, the Cloisters
(see pp23841). In the main
building are a chalice once
thought to be the Holy
Grail, six silver Byzantine
plates showing scenes from
the life of David, a 1301
pulpit by Giovanni
Pisano in the shape
of an eagle, and several
monumental sculptures
of the Virgin and Child.
Other exhibits include
Migration jewelry,
liturgical vessels,
stained glass,
ivories, and 14th-
and 15th-century
tapestries.
M E T R O P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A R T
Musical Instruments
The worlds oldest piano,
Andrs Segovias guitars and
a sitar shaped like a peacock
are some of the features of
a broad and sometimes
quirky collection of musical
instruments that spans six
continents and dates from
prehistory to the present. The
instruments illustrate the history
of music and performance, and
most of them are conserved to
remain in playable condition.
Worth particular mention
are instruments from
the European courts
of the Middle Ages and
the Renaissance; rare
violins; harpsichords;
instruments inlaid with
precious materials; and a
fully equipped traditional
violin-makers workshop;
there are also African
drums, Asian pi-pas,
or lutes; and Native
American flutes.
Visitors can use audio
equipment to hear
many of the instru-
ments playing the
music of their day.
Stradivari violin from
Cremona, Italy (1691)
 199
Modern and
Contemporary Art
Since its foundation in 1870,
the museum has been acquiring
contemporary art, but it was not
until 1987 that a permanent
home for 20th-century art was
built the Lila Acheson Wallace
Wing. Other museums in New
York have larger collections
of modern art, but this display
space is considered among the
finest. European and American
works from 1900 onward
are featured on three levels,
starting with Europeans such
as Picasso, Kandinsky, Braque,
and Bonnard. The collections
greatest strength lies in its
collection of modern
American art, with works by
New York school The Eight,
including John Sloan; such
Modernists as Charles Demuth
and Georgia OKeeffe; American
Regionalist Grant Wood;
Abstract Expressionists Willem
de Kooning; and such Color
Field painters as Clyfford Still.
Special areas of the wing house
Art Nouveau and Art Deco
furniture and metalwork; a
large collection of works on
paper by Paul Klee; and the
Sculpture Gallery, with its large-
scale sculptures and canvases.
Gems of the collection
include Picassos portrait
of Gertrude Stein, Matisses
Nasturtiums and Dance,1,
Demuths I Saw the Figure 5
in Gold, Jackson Pollocks
Autumn Rhythm, and Andy
Warhols last self-portrait.
Each year the Cantor Roof
Garden at the top of the wing
features a new installation
of contemporary sculpture,
especially dramatic against
the backdrop of the New York
skyline and Central Park.
Grant Woods view of The Midnight Ride
of Paul Revere (1931)
200  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

needed to escape
from the crowded
city, then only at
the south end of
the island. The
stone building sits
on land once
owned by Abigail
Adams Smith,
daughter of Presi-
dent John Adams.
It was acquired by
the Colonial Dames
of America, a
womens patriotic
society, in 1924
and turned into
a charming re-
creation of a Federal
home. Costumed
guides show visitors
through eight
Book cover (1916) by illustrator N. C. Wyeth rooms, which
exhibit Chinese
w Society of porcelain, Sheraton chests, and
Illustrators a Duncan Phyfe sofa. One bed-
room even contains a babys
128 E 63rd St. Map 13 A2. Tel (212) cradle and childrens toys. An
838-2560. q Lexington Ave. Open 18th-century-style garden has
10am8pm Tue, 10am5pm WedFri,
been planted around the house.
noon4pm Sat. Closed public hols.
7 restricted. 8 =
societyillustrators.org
Carl Schurz Park promenade
t Carl Schurz Park
Map 18 D3. q 86th St.
@ M31, M79, M86.
Laid out in 1891, this park along
the East River has a wide
promenade over the East River
Drive. It offers fine vistas of the
river and the turbulent waters of
Hell Gate, where the river meets
Long Island Sound. It is named
after Carl Schurz, a native who
became Secretary of the Interior
(186975). The first part of the
promenade is the John Finlay
Walk, named for an editor of the
New York Times known for his
hiking prowess. One of the citys
most pleasant green escapes,
the parks grassy areas are filled
with basking New Yorkers on
sunny days.

Established in 1901, this

society was formed to promote
the illustrators art. Its notable
roster included Charles Dana
Gibson, N. C. Wyeth, and
Howard Pyle. It was at first
concerned with education and
public service, and still holds
monthly lectures. In 1981,
the Museum of American
Illustration opened in two
galleries. Changing thematic
exhibitions show the history of
book and magazine illustration,
with an annual exhibition of
the years finest American
illustrations.
e Mount Vernon
Hotel Museum
421 E 61st St. Map 13 C3. Tel (212)
838-6878. q Lexington Ave, 59th St.
Open 11am4pm TueSun.
Closed Aug, public hols. & ^ 8
= mvhm.org
Built in 1799, the Mount
Vernon Hotel Museum and
Garden was once a country
day hotel for New Yorkers who
East End Ave at 88th St. Map 18 D3.
Queen Anne row houses at Henderson Place
r Henderson Place
Map 18 D3. q 86th St.
@ M31, M79, M86.
Now surrounded by modern
apartment blocks, this enclave
of 24 red-brick Queen Anne
row houses was built in 1882.
The row houses were
commissioned by John C.
Henderson, a hat-maker, as a
self-contained community. The
elegant Lamb & Rich design
has gray slate roof gables,
pediments, parapets, chimneys
and dormer windows forming
patterns, and a turret marking
the corner of each block.
y Gracie Mansion
Tel (212) 639-9675. q 86th St.
@ M31, M79, M86. Open 10am,
11am, 1pm, 2pm most Weds for
prebooked guided tours only. & ^
7 = nyc.gov/gracie
This gracious, balconied wooden
1799 country home is the official
mayors residence. Built by
wealthy merchant Archibald
Gracie, it is one of the best
Federal houses left in New York.
Acquired by the city in 1887,
it was the first home of the
Museum of the City of New
York. In 1942 it became the
official Mayoral Residence.
Front view of Gracie Mansion

When Fiorello La Guardia moved
in after nine years in office,
preferring it to a 75-room
palace on Riverside Drive,
he said that even the modest
Gracie Mansion was too fancy
for him. The Little Flower (from
Fiorello) had fought corruption
in the city.
Arched doorway of the Church of
the Holy Trinity
u Church of the
Holy Trinity
316 E 88th St. Map 17 B3. Tel (212)
289-4100. q 86th St. Open
9am5pm MonFri, 7:30am2pm Sun.
5 8:45am Tue & Thu; 8am, 10:30am &
6pm Sun. holytrinity-nyc.org
Delightfully placed in a serene
garden setting, this church was
constructed in 1889 of glowing
golden brick and terra-cotta in
French Renaissance style. It
boasts one of New Yorks best
bell towers, which holds a
handsome wrought-iron
clock with brass hands.
The arched doorway is
richly decorated with
carved images of the
saints and prophets.
The complex was
donated by Serena
Rhinelander in memory
of her father and
grandfather. The land
was part of the
Rhinelander farm,
which the family had
owned for 100 years.
Farther down at 350
E. 88th Street is the
Rhinelander Childrens
Center, also a gift, and
the headquarters of the
Childrens Aid Society. Facade and domes of St. Nicholas Russian Cathedral
UPPER EAST SIDE
i St. Nicholas
Russian Orthodox
Cathedral
15 E 97th St. Map 16 F1. Tel (212)
876-2190. q 96 St. Open by appt.
5 throughout the week, including
10am & 6pm Wed & Sun.
russianchurchusa.org
Built in Muscovite Baroque style
in 1902, this church has five
onion domes crowned with
crosses, and blue and yellow
tiles on a red brick and white
stone facade. Among the early
worshipers were White Russians
who had fled the first uprisings
at home, mostly intellectuals
and aristocrats who soon
became a part of New York
society. Later, there were more
waves of refugees, dissidents,
and defectors.
The cathedral now serves
a scattered community, and
the congregation is small. Mass
is celebrated in Russian with
great pomp and dignity.
The cathedral is filled with
the scent of incense. The high
central sanctuary has marble
columns with blue and white
trim above. Ornate wooden
screens trimmed with gold
enclose the altar. It is unique, an
unexpected find on
a side street in
this staid part
of Manhattan.
addition there is a collection
 201
Facade of the Museum of the
City of New York
o Museum of the
City of New York
1220 5th Ave at 103rd St. Map 21 C5.
Tel (212) 534-1672. q 103rd St. Open
10am6pm daily (to 8:30pm Sat).
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& 7 8 - = mcny.org
Founded in 1923 and at first
housed in Gracie Mansion, this
museum is dedicated to New
Yorks development from its
earliest beginnings up to the
present and on to the future.
Housed in a handsome
Georgian Colonial building
since 1932, the museum has
expanded its public space, with
special exhibitions throughout
the year. These cover subjects
such as fashion, architecture,
theater, social and political
history, and photography. In
of toys, including the famed
Stettheimer Dollhouse,
with original works of
art in miniature, painted
by such luminaries as
Marcel Duchamp and
Albert Gleizes.
A core exhibition of
the museum is the film
Timescapes: A Multi-
media Portrait of New
York (every 30 mins,
10:15am4:45pm). It
uses images from the
museums collection
and historic maps to
chart the growth of
New York, from its early
days as a tiny settlement
to its current status as
one of the largest cities
in the world.
202  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

7 Whitney Museum of American Art

The Whitney Museum is the foremost
showcase for American art of the 20th The cantilevered
facade of the
and 21st centuries. It was founded in 1930
Whitney Museum
by sculptor Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney
after the Metropolitan Museum of Art
turned down her collection of works by
living artists such as Bellows and Hopper.
In 1966 the museum moved to the present
inverted-pyramid building designed by
Marcel Breuer. The Whitney Biennial, held
in even years, is the most significant
survey of new trends in American art.

Green Coca-Cola
Bottles
Andy Warhols
1962 work is a
commentary on
mass production
and monopoly.

Children Meeting
(1978)
This painting by
Elizabeth Murray
reveals her interest
in the use of color
and form.

Little Big Painting

The 1965 work by Roy
Lichtenstein is a comic
critique of Abstract
Expressionist painting.

Early Sunday Morning (1930)
Edward Hoppers paintings often convey
the emptiness of American city life.
Museum Guide
The second and fifth floors
showcase exhibitions from the
permanent collection, which
may include works by the likes
of Calder, OKeeffe, and Hopper.
Changing exhibitions occupy
the third and fourth floors.
 UPPER EAST SIDE  203

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Practical Information
945 Madison Ave.
Map 17 A5.
Tel (212) 570-3600
Open 11am6pm Wed, Thu, Sat &
Sun; 19pm Fri.
Closed some public hols. & ^
7 8 Film/video presentations,
lectures. 0 =
Dempsey and Firpo whitney.org
In 1924, George Bellows
Transport
depicted one of the
q 6 to 77th St. @ M14, M72,
most famous prizefights
M79, M101 3.
of the century.

Three Flags (1958)

Jasper Johnss use
of familiar objects Painting Number 5
in an abstract form The early Modernist
was influential in artist Marsden Hartley
the development painted this oil on
of Pop Art. canvas between
1914 and 1915.

Circus (192631)
Alexander Calders fanciful
creation is usually on display.

Tango (1919)
This is considered Polish-
born Elie Nadelmans
greatest work of
wood sculpture.

Gertrude
Vanderbilt
Whitney (1916)
Robert Henris oil shows the
Whitney Museums founder.
204  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

8 Frick Collection
The art collection of steel magnate Henry Clay
Frick (18491919) is exhibited in a residential
setting amid the furnishings of his opulent mansion,
which provides a rare glimpse of how the extremely
wealthy lived in New Yorks gilded age. Henry Frick
intended the collection to be a memorial to himself,
and on his death he bequeathed the entire house
to the nation. The collection includes important The Harbor of Dieppe (1826)
Old Master paintings, major works of sculpture, J.M.W. Turner was criticized by
French furniture, rare Limoges enamels, and some skeptical contemporaries
for depicting this northern European
beautiful Oriental rugs.
port suffused with light.

Garden
Court

Library

West
Gallery

The Polish Rider

The identity of the rider in this
equestrian portrait, painted by
Rembrandt in 1655, is unknown.
The somber, rocky landscape
creates an eerie atmosphere
of unknown danger.

Living Hall

. Sir Thomas More (1527)
Holbeins portrait of Henry VIIIs Lord
Chancellor was painted eight years
before Mores execution for treason.
Gallery Guide
Of special interest are the West Gallery,
with oils by Vermeer, Hals, and Rembrandt;
the East Gallery, featuring Van Dyck and
Whistler; the Oval Room, featuring
Gainsborough; the Library and Dining
Room, with English works; and the Living
Hall, with works by Titian and Holbein.
 UPPER EAST SIDE  205

. Officer and Laughing Girl VISITORS CHECKLIST

(165560)
Johannes Vermeer is unique Practical Information
among 17th-century Dutch 1 E 70th St.
painters for his bold use of Map 12 F1.
light and shadow. Tel (212) 288-0700.
Open 10am6pm TueSat,
11am5pm Sun.
Closed most public hols. & (no
children under 10). ^ 7 - 9
Concerts, lectures, film & video.
East frick.org
Gallery Transport
q 6 to 68th St. @ M14.

Key
Exhibition space
Nonexhibition space

Stairs to lower
gallery

Fowling and Horticulture (175053)

Franois Boucher painted a series of
Main panels for Madame de Pompadour.
entrance This one reflects her interest in exotic
birds and botany.

Dining Room

Fragonard
Room

The Pursuit
This is part of The
Progress of Love (17713
and 179091), by Jean-
Honor Fragonard. The . Mall in St. Jamess Park (1783)
series of paintings The three central figures in Thomas
depicts the events of Gainsboroughs London landscape
an idealized courtship. may be the daughters of George III.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  207

CENTRAL PARK
The citys backyard was created in 1858 by of Manhattan bedrock, and planted with
Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux on more than 500,000 trees and shrubs. Over
an unpromising site of quarries, pig farms, the years the park has blossomed, with
swampland, and shacks. Five million cubic playgrounds, skating rinks, ball fields, and
yards of stone, earth, and topsoil turned it spaces for every other activity, from chess
into the lush 843-acre (340-ha) park of and croquet to concerts and events. Cars are
today. There are scenic hills, lakes, and lush not allowed on weekends, giving bicyclists,
meadows, dotted throughout with outcrops in-line skaters, and joggers the right of way.
CE
NT
Sights at a Glance RA
110th St- L
Cathedral Parkway
Historic Buildings B.C PA
RK
1 The Dairy

T
WE
Central Park North- N

ES
110th St O R T

ST
3 Belvedere Castle THE H

W
GREAT 2.3
HILL Harlem
Monuments and Statues

DR I VE
Meer
2 Strawberry Fields 103rd St
B.C The
4 Bow Bridge Loch
The
5 Bethesda Fountain and Terrace Pool C ENTRAL
RK

IV E P ARK
Lakes and Gardens DR
PA

6 Conservatory Water NORTH MEADOW

ST

UE
WE

BALL
7 Central Park Zoo

VE
FIELD

RI

EN
96th St D
8 Conservatory Garden B.C 97
TH

AV
ST
ST
TR
EA
L

AN EAST
RA

SV MEADOW
ERSE R
SOUTH MEADOW D
NT

TENNIS COURTS
CE

Restaurants see p302

H

1 Loeb Boathouse Restaurant

FT

Jacqueline Kennedy
2 Tavern on the Green
FI

Onassis Reservoir
86th St
B.C
86
TH
ST
R EE
T TR
AN
SV
ER

81st St-
SE R

Museum of
Natural History
D

B.C
THE GREAT
LAWN

79T
HS Belvedere
TT
RA Lake
VE

NS
VER
RI

D SE
RD
ST
T

THE
E
ES

Central 0 meters 500

RAMBLE
W

Park Lake
DRI V

72nd St 0 yards 500

B.C

ST
EA
)

7 2ND S CHERRY
LE

HILL
RK

TR

MI
I VE

ET
E
PA

T RANSVERS
DR

E ROA
SHEEP
D

MEADOW
LL
ST

M
MA
WE

EAST
EU

CENTRAL GREEN
US

65 PARK VE
THE
L

TH
RA

(M
DR

ST
NT

HECKSCHER
ST
TR

AN
A

E
CE

BALLFIELDS SV
E RS
E R
59th St- O
UE

AD
Columbus Circle
EN

1.A.B.C.D
CE BIRD
AV

NT
RA
L SANCTUARY
PA
R K
SO
See also Street Finder maps 12, 16, 21
TH

UT
H
(O
FIF

LM
ST
ED
WA
Y)

New Yorks most treasured green space, Central Park For keys to symbols see back flap
208  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A Tour of Central Park

On a short visit, a walking tour from 59th to
79th streets takes in some of Central Parks 2. Strawberry Fields
One of the parks most
loveliest features, from the dense, wooded
visited spots, this
Ramble to the open formal spaces of peaceful area was
Bethesda Terrace. Along the way are created in memory
man-made lakes and more than 30 graceful of John Lennon,
who lived nearby.
bridges and arches that link around 68 miles
(109 km) of footpaths, bridle paths, and roads
in the park. In summer the park is often
several degrees cooler than the city streets
around it, and thus is a favorite retreat.

5. Bethesda Fountain and Terrace

The richly ornamented formal terrace overlooks
the Lake and the wooded shores of the Ramble.

Wollman Rink was restored

in the 1980s for future
generations of skaters by
tycoon Donald Trump. CENTR AL PARK WEST
SE
H

7 Central Park Zoo

ER

SHEEP
UT

Three climate zones

SV

MEADOW
SO

AN

are home to more

TR

than 150 species

RK

of animals.
PA

ALL
THE M
ST
L
RA
NT
CE

TH
65

FIFTH

1. The Dairy 6. Conservatory Water

This Victorian Gothic building houses one From March to November, this is the scene of
of the parks visitor centers. Make it your first model boat races. Many of the tiny craft are stored
stop and pick up a calendar of park events. in the boathouse that adjoins the Lake.
 C E N T R A L PA R K  209

er
Riv
CENTRAL

on
PARK

ds
UPPER East Side

Hu
WEST SIDE

4 Bow Bridge
UPPER
This cast-iron bridge EAST SIDE
links the Ramble

. I
with Cherry Hill by

elt
ev
THEATER

os
a graceful arch, DISTRICT

Ro
60 ft (18 m) above
Locator Map
the Lake. See Manhattan Map pp1617

Alice in Wonderland is
immortalized in bronze at the
northern end of Conservatory Water,
along with her friends the Cheshire
Cat, the Mad Hatter, and the
Dormouse. Children love to slide
down her toadstool seat.

KEY

1 Hans Christian Andersens

E

SE
RS

statue is a favorite Central Park

VE

ER

GREEN
landmark for children. It is on the
SV

L AW N west side of Conservatory Water

and is a popular site for storytelling
AN
NS

in the summer.
TRA

R
T

2 Frick Collection
ST (see pp2045)
TH
86 3 Plaza Hotel (see p183)
ST

4 The Pond
TH

5 Dakota Building (see p220)

9

1
AVENUE 6 San Remo Apartments
(see p216)
7 American Museum of Natural
History (see pp21819)
8 Reservoir
9 Obelisk
0 The Ramble is a wooded area
of 37 acres (15 ha), crisscrossed by
paths and streams. It is a paradise for
birdwatchers. More than 275 species
3. Belvedere of birds have been spotted in the
Castle park, which is on the Atlantic
From the migration flyway.
terraces, there
are unequaled q Metropolitan Museum
views of the city (see pp1929)
and surrounding w Guggenheim Museum
park. Within the (see pp19091)
stone walls is a
visitor center.
210  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
The Carousel, part of the parks
Childrens District
1 The Dairy
Map 12 F2. Tel (212) 794-6564.
q Fifth Ave. Open 10am5pm daily.
Slide show. =
centralparknyc.org
Now used as Central Parks
Visitor Center, this charming
building of natural stone was
planned as part of the
Childrens District of the park,
which included a playground,
the Carousel, a Childrens
Cottage, and stable. In 1873,
there were cows grazing on the
meadows in front of the Dairy,
a ewe and her lambs feeding
nearby, and chickens, guinea
fowl, and peacocks roaming the
lawn. City children could get
fresh milk and other refresh-
ments here. Over the years, the
Dairy deteriorated, being used
as a shed until restoration in
A tranquil scene in Central Park, overlooked by exclusive apartments
1979, done according to original
photographs and drawings.
The Dairy is the place to begin
exploring the lush and leafy
park; maps and details of events
can be obtained here. The less
energetic can rent chess and
checkers sets for use on the
pretty inlaid boards of the
Kinderberg, the charming
little childrens hill nearby.
2 Strawberry Fields
Map 12 E1. q 72nd St.
The restoration of this tear-
drop-shaped section of the
park was Yoko Onos tribute in
memory of her slain husband,
John Lennon. They lived in the
Dakota apartments overlooking
this spot (see p220). Gifts for
the garden came from all over
the world. A mosaic set in the
pathway, inscribed with the
word Imagine (named for
Lennons famous song), was
a gift from the city of Naples
in Italy.
This broad expanse of the
parks landscape was designed
by Vaux and Olmsted. Now it is
an international peace garden,
with 161 species of
plants (one from
every country
of the world),
including jetbead,
roses, witch hazel,
birches and
strawberries.
3 Belvedere Castle
Map 16 E4. Tel (212) 772-0210.
q 81st St. Open 10am5pm
TueSun. Closed Tue in winter.
7 to main floor only.
This stone castle atop Vista
Rock, complete with tower and
turrets, offers one of the best
views of the park and the city
from its lookout on the rooftop.
Inside is the Henry Luce Nature
Observatory, with a delightful
exhibit telling inquisitive young
visitors about the surprising
variety of wildlife to be found
in the park.
The view to the north from
the castle allows you to look
down into the Delacorte
Theater, home to the free
productions of Shakespeare
in the Park every summer,
often featuring big-name
stars (see p339). The theater
was the gift of George T.
Delacorte. Publisher and
founder of Dell paperbacks,
Delacorte was a delightful
philanthropist who was
responsible for many of
the parks
pleasures.
Belvedere Castle with its lookout
over the park
4 Bow Bridge
Map 16 E5. q 72nd St.
This is one of the parks seven
original cast-iron bridges and
is considered one of the finest.
It was designed by Vaux as a
bow tying together the two
large sections of the Lake. In
the 19th century, when the
Lake was used for ice skating,
a red ball was hoisted from a
bell tower on Vista Rock to
signal that the ice was safe. The
bridge offers expansive views
of the park and the buildings
bordering it on both the east
and west sides.

An 1864 print of Bethesda Fountain and Terrace
5 Bethesda Fountain
and Terrace
Map 12 E1. q 72nd St.
Situated between the Lake and
the Mall, this is the architectural
heart of the park, a formal
element in the naturalistic
landscape. The fountain was
dedicated in 1873. The statue,
Angel of the Waters, marked the
opening of the Croton
Aqueduct system in 1842,
bringing the city its first supply
of pure water; its name refers
to a biblical account of a healing
angel at the pool of Bethesda
in Jerusalem. The Spanish-style
detailing, such as the sculptured
double staircase, tiles, and
friezes, is by Jacob Wrey Mould.
The terrace is one of the best
spots to relax and take in some
people-watching.
6 Conservatory
Water
Map 16 F5. q 77th St.
Better known as the Model
Boat Pond, this stretch of water
is home to model yacht races
every weekend.
At the north end of the lake,
a sculpture of Alice in Wonder-
land is a delight for children. It
was commissioned by George
T. Delacorte in honor
of his wife. He himself
is immortalized in
caricature as the Mad
Hatter. On the west
bank, free story hours
are held at the Hans
Christian Andersen
statue. The author is
portrayed reading
from his own story,
The Ugly Duckling,
while its hero
waddles at his Polar bear in the Central Park Zoo
feet. Children like to climb
on the statue and snuggle
in the authors lap.
Conservatory Waters
literary links continue
into adolescence: it is
here that J. D. Salingers
Holden Caulfield comes to
tell the ducks his troubles in
The Catcher in the Rye.
Each spring, birdwatchers
gather at the pond to see the
citys most famous red-tailed
hawk, Pale Male, nest on the
roof of 927 Fifth Avenue.
7 Central Park Zoo
Map 12 F2. Tel (212) 439-6500.
q Fifth Ave between 63rd and
66th sts. Open 10am5pm MonFri,
10am5:30pm Sat, Sun & hols; Nov
Mar: 10am4:30pm daily. Last adm:
30 mins before closing. & 7 - =
centralparkzoo.com
This imaginative zoo has won
plaudits for its creative and
humane use of small space.
More than 150 species of
animals are represented in three
climate zones: the Tropics, the
Polar Circle, and the California
coast. An equatorial rainforest
is home to monkeys and free-
flying birds, while penguins and
polar bears populate an Arctic
landscape that allows views
both above and under water.
C E N T R A L PA R K  211
At the Tisch Childrens Zoo
children can get close to goats,
sheep, alpacas, cows, and pot-
bellied pigs. By its entrance is the
much-loved Delacorte Clock,
which plays nursery rhymes
every half-hour, as bronze
musical animals (such as a goat
playing panpipes) circle around
it. Toward Willowdell Arch is
another favorite the memorial
to Balto, leader of a team of
huskies that made a heroic
journey across Alaska with
serum for a diphtheria
epidemic.
Statue of Balto, the heroic husky dog,
Central Park Wildlife Center
8 Conservatory
Garden
Map 21 B5. q Central Pk N, 103rd St.
Tel (212) 860-1382. Open 8amdusk.
7
The Vanderbilt Gate on Fifth
Avenue is the entry to a 6-acre
(2.4-ha) park containing three
formal gardens. Each one
represents a different national
landscape style. The Central
Garden, with a large lawn, yew
hedges, crabapple trees, and
a wisteria pergola recreates an
Italian style. The South Garden,
spilling over with perennials,
represents an English style, with
a bronze statue in the reflecting
pool of Mary and Dickon, from
Frances Hodgson
Burnetts The Secret
Garden. Beyond is a
slope with thousands
of native wildflowers,
spreading into the park
beyond. The North
Garden, in the French
style, centers around the
bronze Fountain of the
Three Dancing Maidens.
It puts on a brief but
brilliant display of
annuals each summer.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  213

UPPER WEST SIDE

This district of New York became and Central Park West, and cross streets,
residential in the 1870s, when the Ninth dating from the 1890s, still retain fine
Avenue elevated railroad (see pp289) brownstone row houses. The area is
made commuting to Midtown possible. bustling and diverse, with many cultural
The Dakota, the citys first luxury apartment institutions, including the American
house, was built here in 1884, and Museum of Natural History, Lincoln
the streets were graded and leveled. Center, and Columbus Circles Time
Buildings sprang up on Broadway Warner Center.

Sights at a Glance Restaurants see pp3012

1 Asiate 7 Gennaro
Historic Streets and Buildings 2 Bar Boulud 8 Jean Georges
1 Twin Towers of Central Park West 3 Caf Fiorello 9 Masa
7 Columbus Circle 4 Caf Frida 10 Ouest
8 Hotel des Artistes 5 Caf Luxembourg 11 Per Se
9 The Dakota 6 Calle Ocho 12 Picholine
e Pomander Walk 13 Pio Pio
r Riverside Drive and Park 14 Rosa Mexicano
y The Ansonia 15 Telepan
u The Dorilton
WE
Museums and Galleries ST
WE 98
TH
0 New York Historical Society
ST
97 ST
TH
q American Museum of Natural 96th St ST
E

History pp21819
DRIV

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WE ST 92
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The Rose Center for Earth and Space, part of the American Museum of Natural History For keys to symbols see back flap
214  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: Lincoln Center

Lincoln Center was conceived when
both the Metropolitan Opera House
and the New York Philharmonic
required homes, and a large tract
on Manhattans west side was in dire
need of revitalization. The notion of
a single complex where different
performing arts could exist side by
side seems natural today, but in the 2. Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts
1950s it was considered both daring Dance, music, and theater come together in this fine
and risky. Today Lincoln Center has contemporary complex. It is also a great place to sit
around the fountain and people-watch.
proved itself by drawing audiences
of five million each year. Proximity
to its halls prompts both performers
and arts lovers to live nearby.

5 Lincoln Center Theater

The Vivian Beaumont and the
Mitzi E. Newhouse theaters are
both housed in this building.
E
U
EN
AV
M
A
D
ER
ST
M

UE
A

EN
AV
S

Composer Leonard Bernsteins

BU

famous musical West Side Story, which

M

BROADWAY

was based on the Romeo and Juliet

LU

theme, was set in the impoverished

CO

W
neighborhood that was razed to make 62
N
room for Lincoln Center. Bernstein was D
ST
later instrumental in setting up the RE
large music complex. ET

The Guggenheim
Bandshell in
Damrosch Park is the
site of free concerts.
3 New York
State Theater
This is the home of the
New York City Ballet, as
well as an opera company.

The College Board

Building is an Art Deco
delight that now houses
condominiums and the
4 Metropolitan Opera House administrative offices of
Lincoln Centers focus is the Opera the College Board,
House. The caf at the top of the developers of the
lobby offers wonderful plaza views. college entrance exam.
 UPPER WEST SIDE  215

American Folk
Art Museum

er
Riv
Quilting,

on
UPPER
pottery, and

ds
WEST SIDE
CENTRAL

Hu
furniture are PARK

some of the arts

displayed here.
UPPER
EAST SIDE

Locator Map
Early American quilt See Manhattan Map pp1617

8. Hotel des Artistes James Dean once lived in Key

Artists Isadora Duncan, Nol a one-room apartment on
Coward, and Norman Rockwell the top floor at 19 West Suggested route
once lived here. 68th Street.

0 meters 100

0 yards 100

To 72nd Street
subway
(4 blocks)

W
67
TH
ST
RE
ET

An ABC-TV sound stage for soap operas is

housed in this castle-like building, formerly
an armory.
W
65
TH
ST
T

RE
ES

ET
T
W
RK
PA
L

55 Central Park West is the Art Deco

A
TR

apartment building that featured in

the film Ghostbusters.
N
CE

The Society for Ethical

Culture was one of the
citys first Art Nouveau
buildings. It also houses
a school.

To 59th Street
subway Central Park West
(2 blocks) is home to many
celebrities, who like the 1 Century Apartments
privacy of its exclusive The Centurys twin towers are visible from
apartments. the park, making it a New York landmark.
216  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
The San Remo, a twin-towered apartment house designed by Emery Roth
1 Twin Towers of
Central Park West
Map 12 D1, 12 D2, 16 D3, 16 D5.
q 59th St-Columbus Circle, 72nd St,
81St, 86th St. Open to the public.
A familiar landmark on the New
York skyline, the four twin-
towered apartment houses on
Central Park West were built
between 1929 and 1931, before
the Great Depression halted all
luxury construction. They are
among the most-sought-after
residences in New York.
Admired today for their grace
and architectural detail, they
were designed in response to a
city planning law allowing taller
apartments if setbacks and
towers were used.
Emery Roth designed
the San Remo (145 CPW),
whose tenants have
included Dustin Hoffman,
Paul Simon, and Diane
Keaton. Turned down by
the residents committee,
Madonna went to live
close by at 1 West 64th
Street. The towers of the
Eldorado (300 CPW), also
by Roth, were home to
Groucho Marx, Marilyn Monroe,
and Richard Dreyfuss. The
Majestic (115 CPW) and the
Century (25 CPW) are both sleek
classics by Art Deco designer
Irwin S. Chanin.
2 Lincoln
Center for the
Performing Arts
Map 11 C2. Tel (212) 546-2656.
q 66th St. 7 8 (212) 875-5350.
0 = See Entertainment pp3423.
lincolncenter.org
In May 1959, President Eisen-
hower traveled to New York to
turn a shovelful of earth, Leonard
Bernstein lifted his baton, the
New York Philharmonic and
the Juilliard Choir broke into
Central plaza at Lincoln Center
the Hallelujah Chorus and
the citys major cultural center
was born. It soon covered
15 acres (6 ha) on the site of
the slums that had been the
setting for Bernsteins
classic musical West Side Story.
The plaza fountain is by
Philip Johnson, and the
sculpture, Reclining Figure, is
by Henry Moore.
Jazz at the Lincoln Center has
developed a state-of-the-art
facility dedicated to a wide
range of jazz performances. It
forms part of a major complex
at Columbus Circle (see p217).
3 New York
State Theater
Lincoln Center. Map 11 D2. Tel (212)
870-5570. q 66th St. 7 8 0 =
See Entertainment pp3389.
nycballet.com
The home base for the highly
acclaimed New York City Ballet
and the New York City Opera,
a troupe devoted to presenting
opera at popular prices, is a
Philip Johnson design. It was
inaugurated in 1964.
Gargantuan white marble
sculptures by Elie Nadelman
dominate the vast four-story
foyer. The theater seats 2,800
people. Because of its rhine-
stone lights and chandeliers
both inside and out, some have
described the theater as a little
jewel box.
4 Metropolitan
Opera House
Lincoln Center. Map 11 D2. Tel (212)
362-6000. q 66th St. 7 8 0 =
See Entertainment pp3423.
metopera.org abt.org
Home to the Metropolitan
Opera Company and the
American Ballet Theater,
the Met is the most
spectacular of Lincoln
Centers buildings. Five
great arched windows
offer views of the
opulent foyer and two
murals by Marc Chagall.
(You cant see them in
the mornings, when
they are protected from

the sun.) Inside there are curved
white marble stairs, red
carpeting, and exquisite
starburst crystal chandeliers that
are raised to the ceiling just
before each performance. All
the greats have sung here,
including Maria Callas, Jessye
Norman, and Luciano Pavarotti.
First nights are glittering, star-
studded occasions.
The Guggenheim Bandshell,
in Damrosch Park next to the
Met, is a popular concert site.
The high point of the season
is the Lincoln Center Out-of-
Doors Festival, which takes
place in August and features
global music, dance, and
spoken-word performances.
Concert at Guggenheim Bandshell,
Damrosch Park, near the Met
5 Lincoln Center
Theater
Lincoln Center. Map 11 C2. Tel (212)
362-7600 (Beaumont and Newhouse),
(212) 870-1630 (Library). 800-432 7250
(tickets). q 66th St. 7 8 0 = See
Entertainment pp3423. lct.org
Two theaters make up this
innovative complex, where
eclectic and often experimental
drama is presented.
The theaters are the 1,000-
seat Vivian Beaumont and the
more intimate 280-seat Mitzi E.
Newhouse. Works by some of
New Yorks best modern
playwrights have featured at the
Beaumont. Among these was
Arthur Millers After the Fall, the
theaters inaugural performance
in 1962.
The size of the Newhouse
suits workshop-style plays, but
it can still make the news with
theatrical gems such as Robin
Williams and Steve Martin in a
UPPER WEST SIDE
production of Samuel Becketts
Waiting for Godot. The complex
also houses the New York Public
Library for the Performing Arts,
which has exhibits including
audio cylinders of early Met
performances and original
scores and playbills.
6 Avery Fisher Hall
Lincoln Center. Map 11 C2. Tel (212)
875-5030. q 66th St. 7 8 0 =
See Entertainment pp3423.
nyphil.org
Located at the northern end of
the Lincoln Center Plaza, Avery
Fisher Hall is home to Americas
oldest orchestra, the New York
Philharmonic. It also provides a
stage for some of the Lincoln
Centers own performers, and
the Mostly Mozart Festival.
When the venue opened in
1962 as the Philharmonic Hall,
critics initially complained about
the acoustics. Several structural
modifications, however, have
rendered the hall an acoustic
gem, comparing favorably with
other great classical concert
halls around the world. For a
small fee, the public can attend
rehearsals on Thursday
mornings in the 2,738-seat
auditorium.
7 Columbus Circle
Columbus Circle, New York. Map 12
D3. q 59th St. Concerts (212) 258-
9800. jazzatlincolncenter.org
Rockwell, Isadora Duncan,
Presiding over this urban plaza
at the corner of Central Park is a
marble statue of explorer
Christopher Columbus, perched
on top of a tall granite column
in the center of a fountain
and plantings. The statue is
one of the few remaining
original features in this
circle it has become
one of the largest
building projects
in New Yorks
history.
Multi-use
skyscrapers have
been erected,
attracting national
and international
businesses. Global Decorative gure on the Hotel des Artistes
 217
media company Time Warner
has its headquarters in an
80-story skyscraper. The 2.8
million sq ft (260,000 sq m)
building provides a retail,
entertainment, and restaurant
facility. Facilities include shops
such as Hugo Boss, Williams-
Sonoma, Borders Books, and
Whole Foods Market; dining at
Per Se and Masa; and a
Mandarin Oriental hotel.
The Time Warner Center is
also home to Jazz at the Lincoln
Center. The two venues here
The Frederic P. Rose Concert Hall
and The Allen Room together
with a jazz club and education
center, comprise the worlds first
performing arts facility
dedicated to jazz.
Other notable buildings in
Columbus Circle include Hearst
House, designed by British
architect Norman Foster, Trump
International Hotel, the Maine
Monument, and the eye-
catching Museum of Arts and
Design, formerly the American
Craft Museum.
8 Hotel des Artistes
1 W 67th St. Map 12 D2. Tel (212) 877-
3500 (caf). q 72nd St.
Built in 1918 by George Mort
Pollard, these two-story
apartments were intended to
be working artists studios, but
they have attracted a variety of
interesting tenants, including
Alexander Woollcott, Norman
Rudolph Valentino, and Nol
Coward. The base of the
buildings facade is decorated
with figures of artists.
218  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

q American Museum of Natural History

This is one of the worlds largest natural history
museums. Since the original building opened in
1877, the complex has grown to cover four city
blocks, and today holds more than 30 million
specimens and artifacts. The most popular areas
are the dinosaurs and the Milstein Hall of Ocean
Life. The Rose Center for Earth and Space includes
the Hayden Planetarium (see p220).

The facade on 77th Street

Gallery Guide
The museum houses 46
exhibition halls, research . Star of India
laboratories, and a library, This 563-carat gem is the
spread over 25 interconnected worlds largest blue star
buildings. Enter at Central Park sapphire. Found in Sri
Lanka, it was given to the
West onto the second floor to
museum by J. P. Morgan
view the Barosaurus exhibit,
in 1900.
African, Asian, Central and
South American peoples and
animals. First-floor exhibits
include ocean life, meteors,
minerals and gems, and the Hall
of Biodiversity. North American
Indians, birds, and reptiles occu-
py the third floor. Dinosaurs,
fossil fishes, and early mammals
are on the fourth floor.

. Blue Whale
The blue whale is the largest animal, living or
extinct. Its weight can exceed 100 tons. This
replica is based on a female captured off
South America in 1925.

. Great Canoe
Entrance on
This 63-ft (19.2-m) seafaring war canoe
from the Pacific Northwest was carved W. 77th St
from the trunk of a single cedar. It stands
in the Grand Gallery.
 UPPER WEST SIDE  219

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Dinosaurs
Practical Information
Central Park West at 79th St.
Map 16 D5.
Tel (212) 769-5100.
Fourth Open 10am5:45pm daily.
floor Closed Thanksgiving, 25 Dec.
&780-
amnh.org

Transport
q B, C to 81st St. @ M7, M10,
M11, M79, M104.

Komodo Dragons
The largest living lizards, which can grow
Third to 10 ft (3 m), live on Komodo and other
floor Indonesian islands.

Second
floor

African Elephants
Four of the elephants in this group were collected
and mounted in the 1920s by Carl Akeley, who
created the museums Hall of African Mammals.

. Barosaurus
This exhibit shows a mother
Barosaurus rearing up to protect
Rose Center for her baby from an attacking
Earth and Space predator. All three skeletons
(see p220) were cast from original fossils.
The plant-eating dinosaur lived
140 million years ago.

Key
First
floor Dinosaurs and other fossil
vertebrates
Birds
Fishes
Central Park Mammals
West entrance Meteorites, minerals, and gems
Human cultures
Human origins

Giant Sequoia Amphibians and reptiles

Sequoias are among the Environment and ecology
worlds longest-lived plants. Rose Center for Earth and Space
This section has 1,342 annual
Special exhibitions
rings and measures more
than 16 ft (4.8 m) across. Nonexhibition space
220  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
9 The Dakota
1 W 72nd St. Map 12 D1. q 72nd St.
Closed to the public.
The name and style reflect the
fact that this apartment building
was truly way out West when
Henry J. Hardenbergh, the
architect responsible for the
Plaza Hotel, designed it in 1880
84. It was New Yorks first luxury
apartment house and was
originally surrounded by
squatters shacks and wandering
farm animals. Commissioned by
Edward S. Clark, heir to the
Singer sewing machine fortune,
it is one of the citys most
prestigious addresses.
The Dakotas 65 luxurious
apartments have had many
famous owners, including Judy
Garland, Lauren Bacall, Leonard
Bernstein, and Boris Karloff,
whose ghost is said to haunt
the place. It was the setting for
the film Rosemarys Baby, and
the site of the tragic murder of
former Beatle John Lennon. His
widow, Yoko Ono, still lives here.
Carved Indian head over the entrance
to the Dakota
0 New York
Historical Society
170 Central Park West. Map 16 D5. Tel
(212) 873-3400. q 81st St. Galleries
Open 10am6pm TueSat (to 8pm
Fri), 11am5pm Sun. & Library Open
9am3pm TueFri, 10am1pm Sat
(varies by season). Closed public hols.
^ 7 8 - = nyhistory.org
Founded in 1804, this society
houses a distinguished research
library and the citys oldest
museum. Its collections include
historical material relating to
The Rose Center for Earth and Space
slavery and the Civil War, an
outstanding collection of
18th-century newspapers, all
435 watercolors of Audubons
Birds of America, and the worlds
largest collection of Tiffany
lamps and glasswork. There are
also fine displays of American
furniture and silver.
q American
Museum of Natural
History
See pp21819.
w Rose Center for
Earth and Space
Central Park West at 81st St.
Map 16 D4. Tel (212) 769-5100.
q 81st St. Open 10am5:45pm daily.
IMAX show: every hour on the half-
hour 10:30am4:30pm; Space show:
every half-hour 10:30am4:30pm
(from 11am Wed, to 5pm Sat & Sun).
amnh.org/rose
On the northern side of the
American Museum of Natural
History (see pp21819) is the
spectacular Rose Center for
Earth and Space. Housed
within an 87-ft (26-m)
sphere, the center contains
the technologically advanced
Space Theater; the Cosmic
Pathway, a 350-ft (107-m)
spiral ramp with a timeline
chronicling 13 billion years
of evolution; and the Big Bang
Theater, where the origins of
the universe are explained.
The Hall of Planet Earth,
centered around rock samples
and using state-of-the-art
computer and video displays
explaining how the Earth
works, explores our geologic
history. Exhibits in the Hall
of the Universe present the
discoveries of modern
astrophysics. Four
zones have hands-on
interactive exhibits.
Seen from the street at
night, the Rose Center
is breathtaking; the
exhibits inside prove
that, as Carl Sagan
said, We are starstuff.
e Pomander Walk
2617 W 94th St. Map 15 C2.
q 96th St.
Look through the gate for a
delightful surprise a double
row of tiny town houses built
in 1921 to look like the London
mews setting of a popular play
of the same name. It was much
favored as a home by movie
actors, including Rosalind
Russell, Humphrey Bogart,
and the Gish sisters.
Facade of a house on Pomander Walk
r Riverside Drive
and Park
Map 15 B15, 20 D15.
q 79th St, 86th St, 96th St.
Riverside Drive is one of the citys
most attractive streets broad,
with shaded and lovely views of
the Hudson River. It is lined with
the opulent original town
houses, as well as more modern
apartment buildings. At 4046,
7477, 8189, and 105107
Riverside Drive are houses
designed in the late 19th century
by local architect Clarence F.
True. The curved gables, bays,
and arched windows seem to

suit the curves of the road and
the flow of the river.
The bizarrely named Cliff
Dwellers Apartments at 243
(between 96th and 97th streets)
is a 1914 building with a frieze
showing early Arizona cliff
dwellers, complete with masks,
buffalo skulls, mountain lions,
and rattlesnakes.
Riverside Park was designed
by Frederick Law Olmsted in
1880. He also laid out Central
Park (see pp2069).
Soldiers and Sailors monument in
Riverside Park
t Childrens
Museum of
Manhattan
212 W 83rd St. Map 15 C4. Tel (212)
721-1223. q 79th St, 81st St, 86th St.
Open 10am5pm TueSun (to 7pm
Sat). Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec
25. & 7 = cmom.org
This particularly imaginative
participatory museum was
founded in 1973 and is based on
the premise that children learn
best through play. The exhibit
called Eat, Sleep, Play links food,
the digestive system, and healthy
living, while in Block Party
children can build castles, towns,
and bridges out of wooden
blocks. Kids also delight in the
exhibits on cartoon favorites
Curious George and Dora
the Explorer and her
adventurous cousin
Diego, where they
learn about travel
and cultures
around the world.
UPPER WEST SIDE
stars of yesteryear. Florenz
Childrens Museum entrance
On weekends and holidays
there are guest performers,
from puppeteers to storytellers,
in the 150-seat theater. There
is also a gallery for free events,
like Pajama Day, as well as
lively, theme-based tours of
the museum.
y The Ansonia
2109 Broadway. Map 15 C5. q 72nd
St. Closed to the public.
This Beaux Arts gem was built
in 1899 by William Earl Dodge
Stokes, heir to the Phelps
Dodge Company fortune,
who brought French architect
Paul E.M. Duboy to design a
building to rival the Dakota.
The hotel was converted to
a condominium in 1992. The
most prominent features are
the round corner tower and
the two-story mansard roof
adorned with single and
double dormers. The building
had a roof garden (complete
with Dodges menagerie: ducks,
chickens, and a tame bear) and
two swimming pools.
Distinctive rounded turret of the Ansonia Hotel
 221
The hotels thick, sound-
muffling walls soon made
it a favorite with the musical
Ziegfeld, Arturo Toscanini,
Enrico Caruso, Igor Stravinsky,
and Lily Pons were once
regular guests there.
Balcony on the Dorilton, supported by
groaning gures
u The Dorilton
171 W 71st St. Map 11 C1. q 72nd
St. Closed to the public.
Opulent detail and an
impressive high mansard roof
adorn this apartment house. On
the West 71st Street side
of the building is a nine-story-
high gateway. To the modern
eye, the Dorilton is gloriously
elaborate, but when it was first
built in 1902 it provoked this
reaction, reported by the
Architectural Record: The
sight of it makes strong
men swear and weak women
shrink affrighted.
What would the critics
have made of the Alexandria
Condominium, at 135 West
70th Street, just a block away?
Built in 1927 as the Pythian
Temple, its current name stems
from the lavish Egyptian-style
motifs that adorned this former
Masonic lodge. Many were
stripped away when the
building was converted to a
condominium, but you can
still see what the polychrome
designs were like. There are
lotus leaves, hieroglyphics,
ornately carved
columns, mythical
beasts, and, in
majestic
splendor on
the roof, two
seated
pharaohs.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  223

MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS
AND HARLEM
Morningside Heights, near the Hudson River, tours offered, including a Sunday-morning
is home to Columbia University and two of the tour. Many tours start in Hamilton Heights,
citys finest churches. Farther east is Hamilton move east to the St. Nicholas Historic
Heights, situated on the border of Harlem, District, stop to enjoy the gospel choir at
Americas most famous black community. One the Abyssinian Baptist Church, and end
way to see the districts highlights, which are with a Southern-style brunch at Sylvias,
spread over a large area, is by taking one of the Harlems best-known restaurant.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Museums and Galleries Churches
1 Columbia University w Schomburg Center for Research 4 Cathedral of St. John the Divine
2 St. Pauls Chapel into Black Culture pp2289
3 Low Library y Studio Museum in Harlem 5 Riverside Church
6 Grants Tomb u Mount Morris Historic District q Abyssinian Baptist Church
7 City College of the City University o Museo del Barrio Parks and Squares
of New York Famous Theaters i Marcus Garvey Park
8 Hamilton Grange National
e Harlem YMCA Landmark Restaurants
Memorial
t Apollo Theater
9 Hamilton Heights Historic District r Sylvias
W
0 St. Nicholas Historic District W 14
5T
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145th St
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Restaurants see pp3012
RK
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1 Amy Ruths
2 Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
3 Hudson River Caf 10 EAST
6T
HS
4 Red Rooster T

5 Sylvias
See also Street Finder maps 1921

Harlems most famous landmark, the Apollo Theater For keys to symbols see back flap
224  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Street by Street:
Columbia University
A great university is as much spirit
as buildings. After admiring the
architecture, linger awhile on
Columbias central quadrangle in
front of the Low Library, where you Alma Mater was

Y
will see the jeans-clad future leaders sculpted by Daniel

A
W
of America meeting and mingling Chester French in

D
1903 and survived

A
between classes. Across from the

O
a bomb blast in

R
campus on both Broadway and the 1968 student

B
Amsterdam Avenue are the coffee- demonstrations.
houses and cafs where students
engage in lengthy philosophical 116th St/
arguments, debate the topics of Columbia
the day, or simply unwind. University
subway (line 1)

The School of
Journalism is one
of Columbias many
McKim, Mead & White
buildings. Founded
in 1912 by publisher
Joseph Pulitzer, it
is the home of
the Pulitzer Prize,
awarded for the
best in letters 11
4T
and music. H
ST

Butler Library
E

3 Low Library is Columbias

U
EN

With its imposing main library.

facade and high
V
A

dome, the library

M

dominates the W
A

11
D

main quadrangle. 3T
ER

McKim, Mead & H

ST
ST

White designed it
M

in 18957.
A

1. Central Quadrangle
Columbias first buildings were designed by McKim, Mead &
White and built around a central quadrangle. This view looks
across the quad toward Butler Library.
 MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS AND HARLEM  225

2 St. Pauls Chapel Bronx

er
Designed by the architects Howells

Riv
MORNINGSIDE
& Stokes in 1907, this church is

on
HEIGHTS & HARLEM

ds
known for its fine woodwork and

Hu
magnificent vaulted interior. It is full
of light and has fine acoustics.
West Side

CENTRAL East Side

UPPER PARK
WEST SIDE

Locator Map
See Manhattan Map pp1617

The Sherman Key

Fairchild Center
Suggested route
was built in 1977
to house the
universitys life
sciences
0 meters 500
departments.
0 yards 500

W
11
6T
H
ST

Student demonstrations put

Columbia University in the news in
1968. The demonstrations were
sparked by the universitys plan to
build a gymnasium in nearby
Morningside Park. The protests forced
the university to build elsewhere.
VE

Carved
DRI

stonework
decorates the
facade of the
IDE

Cathedral.
The glise de Notre Dame
NGS

was built for a French-speaking

congregation. Behind the altar
RNI

is a replica of the grotto at

Lourdes, France, the gift of a
MO

woman who believed her son

was healed there.

4.Cathedral of
St. John the Divine
If this Neo-Gothic cathedral is ever
finished, it will be the largest in the
world. Although one-third of the
structure has not yet been built, it
can hold 10,000 parishioners.
226  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Alma Mater statue at the Low Library,
Columbia University
1Columbia
University
Main entrance at W 116th St and
Broadway. Map 20 E3. Tel (212) 854-
1754. q 116th St-Columbia
University. Visitors Center: Open
9am5pm MonFri. 8 1pm MonFri.
columbia.edu
This is the third location of one
of Americas oldest universities.
Founded in 1754 as Kings
College, it was first situated
close to where the World Trade
Center stood.
In 1814, when a move
uptown was proposed, the
university approached the
authorities for funding but was
instead given a plot of land
valued at $75,000, on which to
build a new home. The
university never built on the
land itself, but leased it out and
spent the years from 1857 to
1897 in buildings nearby. It
finally sold the plot in 1985 to
the leaseholders, Rockefeller
Center Inc., for $400 million.
The present campus was
begun in 1897 on the site of the
Bloomingdale Insane Asylum.
Columbia Universitys main courtyard and the Low Library
Charles McKim, the architect,
placed the university on a
terrace, serenely above street
level. Its spacious lawns and
plazas still create a sense of
contrast in the busy city.
Columbia is noted for its law,
medicine, and journalism
schools. Its distinguished faculty
and alumni, past and present,
include over 50 Nobel laureates.
Famous alumni include Isaac
Asimov, J.D. Salinger, James
Cagney, and Joan Rivers. Across
the street is the affiliated Barnard
College, a highly selective liberal
arts college for women.
Interior brick vaulting of St. Pauls
Chapel dome
2 St. Pauls Chapel
Columbia University. Map 20 E3.
Tel (212) 854-1487, for concert info.
q 116th St-Columbia Univ. Open
10am11pm MonSat (term time),
10am4pm (breaks). 5 Sun. 7
Columbias most outstanding
building, built in 1904, is a mix
of Italian Renaissance, Byzantine,
and Gothic. The interior
Guastavino vaulting is of
intricate patterns of aged red
brick; the whole chapel is
bathed in light from above.
The free organ concerts are
an exceptionally fine way to
appreciate the beauty and
acoustics of this church. The
Aeolian-Skinner pipe organ is
renowned for its fine tone.
Facade of St. Pauls Chapel
3 Low Library
Columbia University. Map 20 E3.
q 116th St-Columbia University.
A Classical, columned building
atop three flights of stone stairs,
the library was donated by Seth
Low, a former mayor and
college president. The statue in
front of it, Alma Mater by Daniel
Chester French, became familiar
as the backdrop to the many
1968 anti-Vietnam War student
demonstrations. The building is
now used as offices, and its
rotunda for a variety of
academic and ceremonial
purposes. The books were
moved in 1932 to the Butler
Library, across the quadrangle.
The universitys library
collections total more than six
million volumes.
4 Cathedral of St.
John the Divine
See pp2289.
5 Riverside Church
490 Riverside Dr at 122nd St. Map 20
D2. Tel (212) 870-6700. q 116th
St-Columbia Univ. Open 7am10pm
daily. 5 10:45am Sun. 7 8 Carillon
bell concerts; (212) 870-6784;
10:30am, 12:30pm & 3pm Sun.
Theater; (212) 870-6784. -
theriversidechurchny.org
A 21-story steel frame with a
Gothic exterior, the church
design was inspired by the
cathedral at Chartres. It was
lavishly funded by John D.
Rockefeller, Jr., in 1930. The
Laura Spelman Rockefeller
Memorial Carillon (in honor

of Rockefellers mother) is the
largest in the world, with 74
bells. The 20-ton Bourdon, or
hour bell, is the largest and
heaviest tuned carillon bell ever
cast. The organ, with its 22,000
pipes, is among the largest in
the world.
At the rear of the second
gallery is a figure by Jacob
Epstein, Christ in Majesty, cast in
plaster and covered in gold leaf.
Another Epstein statue,
Madonna and Child, stands in
the court next to the cloister.
The panels of the chancel
screen honor eight men and
women whose lives have
exemplified the teachings
of Christ. They range from
Socrates and Michelangelo to
Florence Nightingale and
Booker T. Washington.
For quiet reflection, enter the
small, secluded Christ Chapel,
patterned after an 11th-
century Romanesque
church in France.
The church
is particularly
welcoming during
the holiday season,
as the public is
invited to a host
of festive activi-
ties such as
candlelight
caroling.
The 21-story Riverside Church, from the north
MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS AND HARLEM  227
Mosaic mural in Grants Tomb showing Grant (right) and Robert E. Lee
6 Grants Tomb The tomb was dedicated on
W 122nd St and Riverside Dr.
what would have been Grants
Map 20 D2. Tel (212) 666-1640. 75th birthday, April 27, 1897.
q 116th St-Columbia Univ. The parade of 50,000 people,
@ M5. Open 9am5pm ThuMon. along with a flotilla of 10
Closed in bad weather (call ahead), American and 5 European
Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 8 = warships, took more than seven
nps.gov/gegr hours to pass in review.
The interior was inspired by
This grandiose monument Napoleons tomb at Les
honors Americas 18th Invalides in Paris. Each
president, Ulysses S. Grant, the sarcophagus weighs 8.5 tons.
commanding general of Two exhibit rooms feature
the Union forces in the displays on Grants
Civil War. personal life and his
The mausoleum presidential and
contains the military career.
coffins of General Surrounding the
Grant and his north and east
wife, in sides of the
accordance building are 17
with the sinuously curved
presidents last mosaic benches
wish that they that seem totally
be buried out of keeping
together. After with the formal
Grants death in architecture of the
1885, more than tomb. They were
90,000 Americans designed in the early
contributed 1970s by the
$600,000 to build General Grant on a Chilean-born
the sepulcher, Civil War campaign Brooklyn artist Pedro
which was inspired Silva and were built
by Mausoleuss tomb at by 1,200 local volunteers, who
Halicarnassus, one of the worked under his supervision.
Seven Wonders of the The benches were inspired by
Ancient World. the work of Spanish architect
Antonio Gaud in Barcelona. The
mosaics depict subjects ranging
from the Inuit to New York taxis
to Donald Duck.
A short walk north of Grants
Tomb is another monument. An
unadorned urn on a pedestal
marks the resting place of a
young child who fell from the
riverbank and drowned. His
grieving father placed a marker
that simply reads: Erected to
the memory of an amiable child,
St. Clair Pollock, died 15 July
1797 in his fifth year of his age.
228  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

4 Cathedral of
St. John the Divine
Started in 1892 and still only two-thirds finished, this
will be the largest cathedral in the world. The interior is
over 600 ft (180 m) long and 146 ft (45 m) wide. It was
originally designed in Romanesque style by Heins and
LaFarge; Ralph Adams Cram took over the project in
1911, devising a Gothic nave and west front. Medieval
construction methods, such as stone-on-stone
supporting buttresses, continue to be used to complete . Peace Fountain
the cathedral, which also serves as a venue for theater, The sculpture is the creation
music, and avant-garde art. of Greg Wyatt and represents
nature in its many forms. It
stands within a granite basin
Nave on the Great Lawn, south
Rising to a of the cathedral.
height of over
100 ft (30 m),
the piers of
the nave are
topped by
graceful stone
arches.

. West Front Entrance

The portals of the cathedrals west front are adorned
with many fine stone carvings. Some are recreations of
medieval religious sculpture, but others have modern
themes. This apocalyptic vision of New Yorks skyline,
by local stonemason Joe Kincannon, seems almost to
predict the events of September 11, 2001 (see p56).

KEY
.Rose Window
1 Pulpit Completed in 1933, the
2 The Bishops Chair is a copy stylized motif of the
from the Henry VII chapel in Great Rose is symbolic
Westminster Abbey. of the many facets of
the Christian Church.
 MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS AND HARLEM  229

Baptistery VISITORS CHECKLIST

The Gothic
Baptistery has Practical Information
Italian, French, 1047 Amsterdam Ave at
and Spanish W 112th St.
influences. Map 20 E4.
Tel (212) 316-7540.
Open 7am6pm daily.
5 Vespers 4pm Sun.
Donations 7 8 TueSat, (212)
932-7347. - Concerts,
Choir exhibitions, gardens.
Each of the choirs stjohndivine.org
columns is 55 ft (17 m) tall
and made of polished Transport
q 1 to Cathedral Pkwy (110th St).
gray granite.
@ M4, M11, M60, M104.

St. Ambrose Chapel

Named after a 4th-century Italian
bishop, the chapel is decorated
with Renaissance-
style ironwork.

The Finished Design

The north and south
Crossing
transepts, the crossing tower,
tower
and the west towers have
yet to be finished. When
the money to fund their
construction is raised,
the proposed design will
still take at least another
50 years to complete.
. Bay Altars
The bay altar windows are
devoted to human endeavor.
The sports window shows feats West towers South transept
of skill and strength.

1823 1909 Pulpit designed by 2001 Major fire

Cathedral Henry Vaughan destroys interior 2008 Cathedral reopens
planned for 1891 Site chosen and roof of after seven-year closure
Washington and designated 1911 Cram design north transept for renovations
Square Cathedral Parkway replaces earlier ones

1800 1850 1900 1950 2000 2050

1873 Charter granted 1916 Ground 1941 Work 197889 Third

broken for nave halted by phase of building.
1888 Competition to design World War II Stonemasons Yard
cathedral won by Heins & LaFarge 1892 December 27 and does not opened and south
(St. Johns Day), resume until tower heightened
cornerstone laid 1978
230  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
7 City College of
the City University
of New York
Main entrance at W 138th St and
Convent Ave. Map 19 A2. Tel (212)
650-7000. q 137th St-City College.
ccny.cuny.edu
Set high on a hill adjoining
Hamilton Heights, the original
Gothic quadrangle of this
college, built between 1903
and 1907, is very impressive.
The material used for the
buildings is Manhattan schist, a
stone that had been excavated
in building the IRT subway. Later,
contemporary buildings were
added to the school, which
enrolls nearly 15,000 students.
Once free to all residents
of New York, City College still
offers an education at low
tuition rates. Three-quarters
of the students are from
minority groups, and a large
number of them are the first in
their families to attend college.
Shepard Archway at City College of the City
University of New York
8Hamilton Grange
National Memorial
Saint Nicholas Park, 414 W 141st St.
Map 19 A1. Tel (212) 283-5154.
q 137th St-City College. Open 9am
5pm WedSun. Closed Thanksgiving &
Dec 25. 8 hourly. nps.gov/hagr
Squeezed between a church
and apartments is the 1802
country home of Alexander
Hamilton. He was one of the
architects of the federal
government system, First
Secretary of the treasury and
founder of the National Bank.
His face is on the $10 bill.
Statue of Alexander Hamilton
at Hamilton Grange
Hamilton lived in The Grange
for the last two years of his life.
He was killed in a duel with
political rival Aaron Burr in 1804.
In 1889, St. Lukes Episcopal
Church acquired the site, and
the building was moved four
blocks west. A second relo-
cation in 200611 moved
the building to its current site
in St. Nicholas Park.
9 Hamilton Heights
Historic District
W 141stW 145th St and Convent Ave.
Map 19 A1. q 137th St- City College.
Originally this was a setting for
the impressive country estates
of the wealthy. Also known as
Harlem Heights, it was
developed during the 1880s
following the extension of
the El line (see p28) into the
neighborhood. The privacy
of the enclave, on a high hill
above Harlem, made it a very
desirable location.
The section of Hamilton
Heights known as Sugar Hill
was highly favored by Harlems
elite US Supreme Court
Justice Thurgood Marshall,
notable jazz musicians Count
Basie, Duke Ellington, wand
Cab Calloway, and world
champion boxer Sugar Ray
Robinson have all lived there.
The handsome three- and
four-story stone row houses
were built between 1886 and
1906 mixing Flemish, Roman-
esque, and Tudor influences. In
fine condition, many are used
as residences by the faculty
of City College.
Row houses in Hamilton Heights
0 St. Nicholas
Historic District
202250 W 138th & W 139th St.
Map 19 B2. q 135th St (B, C).
A startling contrast to the
rundown surroundings, the
two blocks here, known as the
King Model Houses, were built
in 1891, when Harlem was
considered a neighborhood
for New Yorks gentry. They
till comprise one of the citys
most distinctive examples
of row townhouses.
The developer, David King,
chose three leading architects,
who succeeded in blending
their different styles to create
a harmonious whole. The most
famous of these was the firm
Houses in St. Nicholas district

Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. addressing a civil rights campaign
of McKim, Mead & White,
designers of the Pierpont
Morgan Library (see pp1667)
and Villard Houses (see p178),
who were responsible for the
northernmost row of solid brick
Renaissance palaces. Their
homes featured ground-floor
entrances rather than the typical
New York brownstone stoops.
Also, the elaborate parlor floors
have ornate wrought-iron
balconies below, as well as
carved decorative medallions
above their windows.
The Georgian buildings
designed by Price and Luce
are built of buff brick with white
stone trim. James Brown Lords
section of buildings, also
Georgian in architectural style,
feels much closer to Victorian,
with outstanding red-brick
facades and bases constructed
of brownstone.
Successful blacks were
attracted here in the 1920s and
1930s, giving it the nickname
Strivers Row. Among them were
celebrated musicians W. C.
Handy and Eubie Blake.
q Abyssinian
Baptist Church
132 W 138th St. Map 19 C2. Tel (212)
862-7474. q 135th St (B, C, 2, 3).
5 11am Sun. Groups of 10
or more need reservations.
abyssinian.org
Founded in 1808, New Yorks
oldest black church became
famous through its charismatic
pastor Adam Clayton Powell,
Jr. (190872), a congressman
MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS AND HARLEM
and civil rights leader. Under
his leadership it became the
most powerful black church
in America. A room in the church
houses memorabilia from his life.
The church, a fine 1923 Gothic
building, welcomes properly
dressed visitors to Sunday
services and to hear its
superb gospel choir.
w Schomburg
Center for Research
into Black Culture
515 Malcolm X Blvd. Map 19 C2.
q 135th St (2, 3). Tel (212) 491-2200.
Open noon8pm TueThu,
10am6pm Fri & Sat. Closed public
hols. 8 (212) 491-2207. 7 =
schomburgcenter.org
Housed in a sleek contemporary
complex opened in 1991, this is
the largest research center of
black and African culture in the
United States. The immense
collection was assembled by
the late Arthur Schomburg,
a black man of Puerto Rican
descent, who was told by
a teacher that there was no
such thing as black history. The
Carnegie Corporation bought
Kurt Weill, Elmer Rice, and Langston
Hughes at the Schomburg Center
 231
the collection in 1926 and
gave it to the New York Public
Library; Schomburg was
made curator in 1932.
The library was the
unofficial meeting place for
writers involved in what later
became known as the Harlem
Renaissance of the 1920s,
including Langston Hughes,
W.E.B. Du Bois, and Zora Neale
Hurston. It also hosted many
poetry readings and literary
gatherings.
The Schomburg Library has
excellent facilities for conserving
and making available the
archives treasures, which
include rare books, photos,
movies, art, and recordings.
The library was planned and
designed to double as a cultural
center and includes a theater
and two art galleries, which
feature changing shows of art
and photography.
Sociologist W. E. B. Du Bois
e Harlem YMCA
180 W 135th St. Map 19 C3.
Tel (212) 281-4100. q 135th St (2, 3).
Paul Robeson and many
others made their first stage
appearances here in the early
1920s. The Krigwa Players,
organized by W.E.B. Du Bois
in the basement in 1928,
was founded to counter the
derogatory images of blacks
often presented in Broadway
reviews of the time. The Y also
provided temporary lodgings
for some notable new arrivals
in Harlem, including writer
Ralph Ellison.
232  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
Gospel singers performing at Sylvias during Sunday brunch
r Sylvias
328 Lenox Ave. Map 21 B1. Tel (212)
996-0660. q 125th St (2, 3).
sylviassoulfood.com
Harlems best-known soul
food restaurant serves up
Southern-fried or smothered
chicken, spicy ribs, black-eyed
peas, collard greens, candied
yams, sweet potato pie, and
other comforting Southern
delicacies. Sunday brunch here
is served to the accompaniment
of Gospel singers.
Take some time to explore
the market at the corner of
125th Street and Lenox Avenue
(opposite Sylvias), extending
for a block or more in either
direction. Vendors sell African
clothing, jewelry, and art of
varying quality.
t Apollo Theater
253 W 125th St. Map 21 A1.
Tel (212) 531-5300 q 125th St.
Open at showtimes. 8 Groups only.
7 = See Entertainment p345.
apollotheater.com
The Apollo opened in 1913
as a whites-only opera house.
Its great fame came when
Frank Schiffman, a white
entrepreneur, took over in
1934. He then opened the
theater to all races and turned
it into Harlems best-known
showcase, with great artists
such as Bessie Smith, Billie
The Apollo was the place
during the swing band era;
following World War II, a new
generation of musicians, such
as Charlie Bird Parker, Dizzy
Gillespie, Thelonious Monk,
and Aretha Franklin, continued
the tradition.
Rescued from decline and
refurbished in the 1980s, the
Apollo once again features
top black entertainers and
hosts Amateur Nights.
y Studio Museum
in Harlem
144 W 125th St. Map 21 B2. Tel (212)
864-4500. q 125th St (2, 3). Open
noon9pm Thu & Fri, 10am6pm Sat,
noon6pm Sun. Closed public hols.
& donations; free Sun. ^ 7 8
Holiday, Duke Ellington, Lectures, films, childrens programs,
and Dinah Washington. video presentations. = -
Wednesday Amateur Nights, studiomuseum.org
(begun in 1935) with winners
determined by audience The museum was founded in
applause, were 1967 in a loft on upper Fifth
famous, and there Avenue with the mission of
was a long waiting becoming the premier center
list for performers. for the collection and exhibition
These amateur of the art and artifacts of
nights helped African Americans.
launch the careers The present premises, a
of Sarah Vaughan, five-story building on Harlems
Pearl Bailey, James main commercial street, was
Brown, and Gladys donated to the museum by
Knight, among the New York Bank for Savings
others, and they still in 1979. There are galleries
attract hopefuls. on two levels for changing
exhibitions featuring artists
and cultural themes, and
three galleries are devoted to
the permanent collection of
works by major black artists.
The photographic archives
comprise one of the most
complete records in existence
of Harlem in its heyday. A
side door opens onto a small
Apollo Theater sculpture garden.
Exhibition space at the Studio Museum in Harlem

In addition to its excellent
exhibitions, the Studio
Museum also maintains a
national artist-in-residence
program, and offers regular
lectures, seminars, childrens
programs, and film festivals.
An excellent shop sells a range
of books, unique prints, and
various African crafts.
u Mount Morris
Historical District
W 119thW 124th Sts. Map 21 B2.
q 125th St (2, 3).
You can plainly see that the
late 19th-century Victorian-style
town houses near Marcus
Garvey Park were once grand.
This was a favorite neighborhood
of German Jews moving up in
the world from the Lower East
Side. Time has not been kind,
and this district shows how the
area has deteriorated.
A few impressive churches,
such as St. Martins Episcopal
Church, remain. There are also
some interesting juxtapositions
of faiths to be seen: the
columned Mount Olivet Baptist
Church, at 201 Lenox Avenue,
was once Temple Israel, one
of the most imposing
synagogues in the city; and at
the Ethiopian Hebrew
Congregation, 1 West 123rd
Street, housed in a former
mansion, the choir sings in
Hebrew on Saturdays.
St. Martins Episcopal Church on
Lenox Avenue
MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS AND HARLEM
The amboyant black nationalist leader
Marcus Garvey
i Marcus
Garvey Park
120th124th Sts. Map 21 B2 q 125th
St (2, 3). nycgovparks.org
This hilly, rocky, two-block
square of green is the site of
New Yorks last fire watchtower,
an open cast-iron structure built
in 1856, with spiral stairs leading
to the observation deck. The
bell below the deck sounded
the alarm. It may be best
to view it from a distance,
however, if you have any
doubts about your safety.
Previously known as Mount
Morris Park, it was renamed in
1973 in honor of Marcus
Garvey. He came to Harlem
from Jamaica in 1916 and
founded the Universal
Negro Improvement
Association, which
promoted self-help,
racial pride, and a
back-to-Africa
movement.
Folk art at the Museo del Barrio: one of the Three Wise Men (left) and the Omnipotent Hand
 233
o Museo del Barrio
1230 5th Ave. Map 21 C5. Tel (212)
831-7272. q 103rd St, 110th St.
Open 11am6pm WedSat. Closed
Jan 1, Jul 4, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. &
8 ^ 7 = elmuseo.org
Founded in 1969, this was
North Americas first museum
devoted to Latin American
art. It specializes in the culture
of Puerto Rico. Exhibitions
feature contemporary painting
and sculpture, folk art, and
historical artifacts. The stars
of the collection are about
240 wooden Santos (carved
figures of saints) and a
reconstructed bodega, or
Latino corner grocery. Exhibits
change often, but some of
the Santos are often on display.
The Pre-Columbian collection
contains rare artifacts from the
Caribbean. Situated at the far
end of Museum Mile, this
unusual museum attempts to
bridge the gap between the
lofty Upper East Side and
Spanish Harlem. A store sells
eye-catching objects by artists
from all over Latin America.
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  235

FARTHER AFIELD
Though officially part of New York City,
the four boroughs outside Manhattan
(Brooklyn, Bronx, Queens, Staten Island)
are quite different in feel. They are mostly
residential and dont have the famous
skyscrapers and world-famous sights
that are associated with New York.
However, the outlying areas boast many
attractions, including the citys biggest zoo,
botanical gardens, museums, beaches, and
sports arenas. For a guided walk around
Brooklyn, see pages 2689.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings y Brooklyn Childrens Museum Cemeteries
2 Morris-Jumel Mansion a Brooklyn Museum pp2525 7 Woodlawn Cemetery
3 George Washington Bridge g Jacques Marchais Museum of
Beaches
5 Wave Hill Tibetan Art
h Snug Harbor Cultural Center q City Island
0 Yankee Stadium
d Coney Island
i Grand Army Plaza Parks and Gardens
k Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge Center
o Park Slope Historic District
8 New York Botanical Garden pp2445 l Jones Beach State Park
f Historic Richmond Town
9 Bronx Zoo pp2467
j Alice Austen House
w Flushing Meadow-Corona Park
Museums and Galleries p Prospect Park
1 Audubon Terrace s Brooklyn Botanic Garden
4 The Cloisters Museum pp23841 Famous Theaters Key
6 Van Cortlandt House Museum Freeway
u Brooklyn Academy of Music
e New York Hall of Science
Major road
r Museum of the Moving Image
and Kaufman Astoria Studio Other road
t MoMA PS1, Queens Main sightseeing areas

Englewood
Sights Outside the Center 95
d
87
n
u
So
nd

95
la
Is

Bronx
ng

278
Port
Lo

Washington
Lyndhurst West
New York La Guardia

NEW JERSEY Flushing

Manhattan
95 Union Jackson
City Heights 495

278 Queens
Newark Jersey
City

Newark 78
NEW YORK
678
Rochdale
95 Prospect East
New York Heights New York 27

Bay 27

John F.
278 Canarsie Kennedy

Ray Brooklyn
Ridge
278

Staten
Island 0 kilometers 10

0 miles 5
Coney Island 12 miles

Orchids in bloom at the New York Botanical Garden For keys to symbols see back flap
236  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Upper Manhattan Audubon Terrace contains two

themed museums that are worth
It was in Upper Manhattan that the 18th-century Dutch settlers seeking out. The American
established their farms. Now a suburban area with little of the Academy of Arts and Letters
bustle of downtown Manhattan, it is a good place to escape the was set up to honor American
writers, artists, and composers,
inner city for some relaxed museum and landmark sightseeing.
and 75 honorary members from
The Cloisters (see pp23841) displays a magnificent collection of overseas. On this illustrious roll
medieval art, housed within original European buildings of the are writers John Steinbeck and
period. A piece of New York history is found at the Morris-Jumel Mark Twain, painters Andrew
Mansion in north Harlem: from his headquarters here, George Wyeth and Edward Hopper,
Washington mounted the defense of Manhattan in 1776. and composer Aaron Copland.
Exhibitions feature members
work. The library (for scholars,
by appointment) has old
manuscripts and first editions.
The Hispanic
Society of America
is a public museum
and library based
upon a personal
collection amassed
by Archer M.
Huntington. The
main gallery, in
Facade of the American Academy of Arts and Letters Spanish Renais-
sance style, holds
1 Audubon Terrace benefactor Archer Milton works by Goya,
Broadway at 155th St. q 157th St.
Huntington. His dream was that El Greco, and
American Academy of Arts and it should be a center of culture Velzquez. There
Letters: (212) 368-5900. Open mid- and study. A central plaza are also extensive
Marmid-Apr, mid-Maymid-Jun: contains statues by his wife, collections of Bronze door,
14pm ThuSun. ^ Hispanic Society sculptor Anna Hyatt Spanish sculpture, American
of America: (212) 926-2234. Open Huntington. decorative arts, Academy
10am4:30pm TueSat, 14pm Sun. prints, and
Closed public hols. Donations. 8 photographs, with changing
2pm Sat. = hispanicsociety.org exhibits throughout the year.
Nearby, the Church of Our
This 1908 complex of Classical Lady of Esperanza stands on
Revival buildings by Charles Pratt a knoll at 624 W 156th Street,
Huntington is named for the which was once part of
great naturalist John James Audubon Park. It was built at
Audubon, whose estate once the instigation of Seora de
included this land. Audubon is Barril, wife of the Spanish
buried in nearby Trinity Consul-General in New York,
Cemetery. His gravestone, a as a church for the Spanish-
Celtic cross, bears the symbolic speaking peoples of New York
images of his adventurous career: City. Built with funds provided
the birds he painted, his palette by railroad magnate Archer
and brushes, and his rifles. Milton Huntington, the church
The complex was funded was completed in 1912,
by the architects and enlarged in
cousin, civic the 1920s.

Statue of El Cid by Anna Hyatt Huntington at Audubon Terrace

 FA R T H E R A F I E L D  237

2 Morris-Jumel
Mansion
Corner W 160th St and Edgecombe
Ave. Tel (212) 923-8008. q 163rd St.
Open 10am4pm WedSun. Closed
public hols. & 8 noon Sat by appt.
= morrisjumel.org

This is one of New Yorks few

pre-Revolutionary buildings.
Now a museum with nine
restored period rooms, it was
built in 1765 for Roger Morris. The 3,500-ft (1,065-m) span of the George Washington Bridge
His former military colleague
George Washington used it as 3 George who suggested a road
temporary headquarters while Washington Bridge bridge rather than the more
defending Manhattan in 1776. expensive rail link. Work
In 1810 it was bought and q 175th St. panynj.gov began in 1927 and the
updated by Stephen Jumel, a bridge was opened in 1931:
merchant of French-Caribbean French architect Le first across were two young
descent, and his wife Eliza. Corbusier called roller skaters
The pair furnished the house this the only seat from the Bronx.
with souvenirs of their many of grace in the Today it is a vital
visits to France. Her boudoir disordered city. link for commuter
has a dolphin chair, reputedly While not as famous traffic and is in
bought from Napoleon. Elizas a landmark as its constant use.
social climbing and love affairs Brooklyn equivalent, Cass Gilbert
scandalized New York society. this bridge by had plans to clad
It was rumored that she let her engineer Othmar the two towers
husband bleed to death in Ammann and his with masonry but
1832 so she could inherit his architect Cass funds did not
fortune. She later married Gilbert has its own permit it, leaving
Aaron Burr, aged 77, and character and an elegant skeletal
divorced him three years history. Plans for a structure 600 ft
later on the day he died. bridge linking (183 m) high
The exterior of the Manhattan to New The lighthouse under and 3,500 ft
Palladian-style, wood-sided Jersey had been in Washington Bridge (1,065 m) long.
Georgian house with Classical the pipeline for Ammann had
portico and octagonal wing more than 60 years before also allowed for a second deck
has been restored. The museum the Port of New York Authority in his plan, and this lower deck
exhibits include many original raised the $59 million to fund was added in 1962, increasing
Jumel pieces. the project. It was Ammann the bridges capacity enormously.
Now the eastbound toll
collection shows a traffic level
of over 53 million cars per year.
Below the eastern tower
is a lighthouse that was saved
from possible demolition in
1951 by public pressure.
Many thousands of young
New Yorkers and children all
around the world have
loved the bedtime story
The Little Red Lighthouse and
the Great Gray Bridge, and
wrote letters to save the
lighthouse. Author Hildegarde
Hoyt Swift wove the tale
around her two favorite
New York landmarks.
The bridge is also home to
the worlds largest free-flying
American flag, which is hung
Morris-Jumel Mansion, built in 1765, with its original colossal portico out on major federal holidays.
238  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

4 The Cloisters Museum

This world-famous museum of medieval art Tomb Effigy of
resides in a building constructed between 1934 Jean dAlluye
This tomb immortalizes
and 1938, incorporating medieval cloisters, the 13th-century
chapels, and halls. Sculptor George Grey crusader.
Barnard founded the museum in 1914; John
D. Rockefeller, Jr. funded the Metropolitan Langon
Chapel
Museum of Arts 1925 purchase of the
collection and donated the site at Fort
Pontaut
Tryon Park and also the land on the Chapter
New Jersey side of the Hudson River, House
directly across from the Cloisters.

Gothic
Chapel
. Unicorn Tapestries
The set of beautiful
tapestries, woven in the
Netherlands around
1500, depicts the quest
and capture of the
mythical unicorn.

Key
Exhibition space
Nonexhibition space

Gothic
Chapel

Bonnefort Cloister

Glass
Gallery

Boppard Stained-Glass
Lancets (144047)
Below the lancet of St. Catherine, Trie
angels display the arms of the coopers Cloister
guild, of which Catherine was patron.

. Annunciation
Triptych (c.1425)
The Campin Room is the
location of this small Robert
Campin of Tournai triptych, a
magnificent example of early
Netherlandish painting.
 THE CLOISTERS MUSEUM  239

Saint-Guilhem
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Cloister
Intricate floral
Practical Information
ornamentation can be
Fort Tryon Park. Tel (212) 923-
found on the capitals
3700. Open 10am5:15pm daily
of this cloister.
(NovFeb: to 4:45pm).
Closed Jan 1, Thksgv, Dec 25.
Donations. No videos. 7
limited. 8 9:30am3:30pm (to
11:30am Sat). 9 - MayOct
10am4:30pm. = Concerts.
metmuseum.org/cloisters

Transport
q A to 190th St (exit via
Romanesque elevator). @ M4.
Hall

Virgin and
Child Frescoes
This 12th-century fresco
Upper is from the Catalan
floor Church of the Virgin.

Lower
floor

Cuxa Cloister
The reconstructed 12th-century
cloister features Romanesque
architectural detail and motifs.

Main
entrance

Enthroned Virgin and Child

This elaborately carved
ivory sculpture was made
in England during the
late 13th century.

Gallery Guide
The museum is organized
roughly in chronological order.
It starts with the Romanesque
period (AD 1000) and moves
to the Gothic (1150 to 1520). . Belles Heures
Sculptures, stained glass, This book of hours, commissioned
paintings, and the gardens are by Jean, Duc de Berry, is among a
on the lower floor. The Unicorn rotating installation of exquisite
Tapestries are on the upper floor. illuminated books and folios.
240  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Cloisters Museum

Known particularly for its Romanesque and Gothic architectural
sculpture, the Cloisters Museums collection also includes
illuminated manuscripts, stained glass, metalwork, enamels,
ivories, and paintings. Among its tapestries is the renowned
Unicorn series. The Cloisters splendid medieval complex is
unrivaled in North America.

the styles powerful rounded

A lifesized 12th-century Spanish crucix
portraying Christ as the King of Heaven
Romanesque Art
Fanciful beasts and people,
acanthus blossoms and
scrollwork top the columns
around the Cloisters Museum.
Many are in the Romanesque
style that flourished in the
11th and 12th centuries.
The museum has numerous
masterpieces of Romanesque
art and architecture, showing
arches and intricate details.
Highly embellished capitals
and warm, pink marble typify
the 12th-century Cuxa Cloister
from the Pyrenees in France.
A griffin, a dragon, a centaur,
and a basilisk are among the
creatures parading over the
Narbonne Arch nearby.
In a more solemn style,
the apse from the church
of St-Martn in Fuentiduea,
Spain, is a massive rounded vault
constructed from 3,300 blocks of
limestone. It is decorated with a
12th-century fresco of the Virgin
and Child and has a golden-
crowned Christ depicted as
triumphant over death.
More than 800 years ago,
Benedictine and Cistercian
monks sat on the cold stone
benches in the Pontaut Chapter
House. By the 19th century it
had become so neglected that
it was used as a stable. Its ribbed
vaulting is a foretaste of the
Gothic style to come.
A 16th-century Flemish boxwood rosary
bead from the Treasury
Gothic Art
Where Romanesque art
was solid, the Gothic style
that followed (from 1150
to around 1520) was open,
with pointed arches, glowing
stained-glass windows, and
three-dimensional sculpture.
Gothic depictions of the Virgin
and Child display exquisite
craftsmanship.
The Gothic Chapels
brilliantly colored windows
show scenes and figures from
biblical stories. Lifesized tomb
sculptures include the effigy
of the Crusader knight Jean
dAlluye. During the 1790s,
the statues original home,

Vaulted ceiling of the Pontaut Chapter House


La Clart-Dieu Abbey in
France, was vandalized, and
the statue was used to bridge
a stream.
In the Boppard Room, the
lives of the saints are told in
marvelous late Gothic stained
glass from Germany.
Robert Campins Flemish
masterwork, the Annunciation
altarpiece, is the focus of the
Campin Room. It is an intimate
room with furnishings that
might have belonged to a
wealthy 15th-century family.
The Tapestries
The Cloisters tapestries are
full of rich imagery and
symbolism, and are among
the museums most highly
prized treasures. The four
Nine Heroes Tapestries bear
the coat of arms of Jean,
Duc de Berry, who was
a brother of the King of
France and one of the
greatest art patrons of
the Middle Ages. These
tapestries are one of only
two sets that survived
from the late 14th century;
the other set belonged
to Jeans brother, Louis,
Duc dAnjou.
Nine great heroes of the
past three pagan, three
Hebrew, three Christian
are shown with members
of the medieval court,
from cardinals, knights,
and damsels to musicians.
In an adjacent room is
the magnificent Hunt of
the Unicorn, a series of
seven tapestries woven in
the Netherlands around 1500.
It depicts the symbolic hunt
of the mythical unicorn and
capture by a maiden.
Although they were misused
in the 19th century to protect
fruit trees from frost damage,
Hunting images and symbols depicted on a 15th-century deck of playing cards
THE CLOISTERS MUSEUM
Medieval Gardens
More than 300 varieties of
plants grown in the Middle
Ages can be found in the
Cloisters gardens. The
Bonnefont Cloister has many
species of aromatic, magic,
medicinal, and culinary herbs.
The Trie Cloister features plants
shown in the Unicorn Tapestries
and reveals the use of flowers
in medieval symbolism: roses
(for the Virgin Mary), pansies
(the Holy Trinity), and daisies
(the eye of Christ).
the tapestries are remarkably
well preserved. They are also
astonishing in detail, with
Julius Caesar, entertained by court musicians, in a
Nine Heroes tapestry
literally hundreds of minutely
observed plants and animals.
Their story can be read as a
tale of courtly love, but the
series is also an allegory of
the Crucifixion and the
Resurrection of Christ.
 241
Bonnefont Cloister
The Treasury
In medieval times, precious
objects were stored for safe-
keeping in sanctuaries. At
the Cloisters, they are found
in the Treasury.
The collection includes
several Gothic illuminated
books of hours. These were
used for the private devotions
of the nobility, such as the
Limbourg brothers Belles
Heures, made for Jean, Duc
de Berry, in 1410, and the tiny,
palm-sized version by Gothic
master Jean Pucelle for the
Queen of France, around 1325.
Other religious artifacts range
from a 13th-century English ivory
Virgin to the 14th-century silver
gilt and enamel reliquary shrine
thought to have belonged to
Queen Elizabeth of Hungary,
along with censers, chalices,
candlesticks, and crucifixes.
Curiosities here include the
Monkey Cup, an enameled
beaker probably made for the
15th-century Burgundian court,
showing mischievous monkeys
robbing a sleeping peddler;
an intricately carved rosary
bead the size of a walnut; a
13th-century boat-shaped,
jeweled saltcellar; and a full set
of playing cards dating to the
15th century.
242  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

The Bronx
Once a prosperous suburb with a famous Grand Concourse
lined with apartment buildings for the wealthy, the Bronx
has now become an unfortunate symbol of urban decay.
Still, diverse ethnic communities and charming areas, such
as Riverdale at the northern end, remain.
Two main attractions are the Bronx Zoo and New York
Botanical Garden. There is also a golf course at Ferry Point
Park, and Fulton Fish Market has relocated here. The much- The facade of Van Cortlandt House
loved Yankees baseball teams (see p352) state-of-the-art
stadium brings millions of fans to the borough. 6 Van Cortlandt
House Museum
5 Wave Hill Dean, who was then the curator Van Cortlandt Park. Tel (718) 543-3344.
of the collection of arms and q 242nd St, Van Cortlandt Park.
W 249th St and Independence Ave,
armor at the Metropolitan Open 10am3pm TueFri, 11am
Riverdale. Tel (718) 549-3200. q
Museum of Art. 4pm Sat & Sun (last adm: 30 mins
231st St, then bus Bx7, 10, or museum
The gardens were originally before closing). Closed public hols &
shuttle bus hourly 9:10am3:10pm.
designed by Viennese land- Nov 26. & free Wed. 8 = See The
Open 9am5:30pm TueSun (to
scape gardener Albert Millard. History of New York City pp223.
4:30pm Novmid-Mar). & free Tue vancortlandthouse.org
(Jul, Aug & NovApr), 9amnoon Tue There are also greenhouses,
(May, Jun, Sep & Oct), 9amnoon Sat lawns, an herb garden, and
(all year). 8 2pm Sun. = woodlands. Exhibitions range A restored 1748 Georgian
wavehill.org from sculpture to horticulture. Colonial country manor built of
The adjoining Riverdale Park, rough stone, the Bronxs oldest
This 28-acre (11-ha) oasis of which is also open to the public, building was the family home
beauty boasts fine views over to has attractive woodland and of Frederick Van Cortlandt, a
the New Jersey Palisades across paths along the river. New Yorker who inherited great
the Hudson River. The former wealth and was related to many
estate of financier and influential families of his day.
conservationist George W. The dining room was used
Perkins, Wave Hill has had many as one of General George
distinguished tenants, including Washingtons headquarters; the
Theodore Roosevelt, Mark Twain, ground behind the house was
and Arturo Toscanini. Perkins also once the scene of skirmishing
owned neighboring estates, during the Revolutionary War.
underneath which he built a The interior has American
recreation center complete with period furnishings as well as a
bowling alley, and a tunnel superb collection of delftware
leading into the main building. and a complete 17th-century
The house is frequently used Dutch bedroom.
for concerts. They often take On the exterior, look for the
place in the grand Armor Hall, The interior of the grand Armor carved faces in the keystones
designed in 1928 for Bashford Hall at Wave Hill over the windows.

The west parlor of the Van Cortlandt House Museum

 FA R T H E R A F I E L D  243

7 Woodlawn players of all

Cemetery time: Babe
Ruth and Joe
Webster Ave and E 233rd St. DiMaggio (who
Tel (718) 920-0500. q Woodlawn. was also famous
Open 8:30am5pm daily.
for marrying the
Closed public hols. ^ 7 8
thewoodlawncemetery.org
actress Marilyn
Monroe in 1954).
Established in 1863, Woodlawn In 1921 left-
Cemetery is the burial place hander Babe
of many a wealthy and Ruth, wearing
distinguished New Yorker. the Yankees
Memorials distinctive Joe DiMaggio in action at Yankee Stadium in 1941
and tomb- pinstripes, hit
stones are the stadiums first home run q City Island
set in against the Boston Red Sox, his q 6 to Pelham Bay Park, then Bx29 to
beautiful former team. The stadium was City Island. Museum 190 Fordham St.
grounds. F.W. completed two years later by Open 15pm Sat & Sun. Tel (718)
Woolworth Jacob Ruppert, the owner of the 885-0008. cityislandmuseum.org
and many Yankees, and became known as
members the house that Ruth built. Situated off the northeast
of his family Yankee Stadium had a facelift shore of the Bronx and
are interred in in the mid-1970s to seat up surrounded by Long Island
Entrance to the a mausoleum to 54,000 people. One of the Sound, City Island is a small
Woolworth only a little largest annual gatherings has nautical outpost with a very
mausoleum less ornate been that of the Jehovahs New England feel and offers a
than the Witnesses, and in 1950, 123,707 refreshing change of pace. Its
building that carries the family people attended in a single day. scenic marinas are filled with
name. The pink marble vault In 1965 Pope Paul VI celebrated sailboats, and its seafood
of meat magnate Herman mass before a crowd of more restaurants would satisfy any
Armour is oddly reminiscent than 80,000. It was the first visit sailors appetite. Several
of a ham. to North America by a pope Americas Cup winners have
Other New York notables the second was made in 1979, been built in its boatyards.
buried here include Mayor when John Paul II also visited The City Island Museum
Fiorello La Guardia; Rowland the stadium. is in one of the islands most
Hussey Macy, the founder of In 2009, the Yankees moved historic buildings, the old
the great department store; to a new stadium located Public School 17, built on an
author Herman Melville; and parallel to the old site. This Indian burial ground at a high
jazz legend Duke Ellington. stadium is one of the most point on the island. City Island
expensive venues ever built, is linked to the Bronx by
at a cost of around $1.5 billion. bridge. To the north on the
8 New York The Yankees remain one of mainland is Orchard Beach,
Botanical Garden the top teams in the American a crescent of white sand
League. There are multiple edged with bathing huts.
See pp2445. Yankee Clubhouse stores in New The beach is popular with
York, where tickets for tours and area residents, and it can
games can be purchased. be crowded.
9 Bronx Zoo
See pp2467.

0 Yankee Stadium
E 161st St at River Ave, Highbridge.
Tel (718) 293-6000. q 161st St.
8 noon1:40pm daily (except on
game afternoons); ticketed tours
available. See Sport p352.
yankees.com

This has been the home of

the New York Yankees baseball
team since 1923. Among Yankee
heroes are two of the greatest An old tugboat moored at one of City Islands piers
244  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

8 New York Botanical Garden

The New York Botanical Garden is 250 acres (100 ha)
of dazzling beauty and hands-on enjoyment. From
the nations most glorious Victorian glasshouse to the
12-acre (5-ha) Everett Childrens Adventure Garden, it
is alive with things to discover. One of the oldest and
largest botanical gardens in the world, it has 50 gardens
and plant collections, and 50 acres (20 ha) of uncut
forest. The spectacular Enid A. Haupt Conservatory Entrance to Enid A. Haupt Conservatory
houses a A World of Plants, with climates ranging from
misty tropical rain forests to dramatic deserts.

Seasonal
Exhibition
Galleries

Deserts of
Africa

4 Rock Garden
Rock outcroppings,
streams, a waterfall,
and a flower-rimmed
pond create an alpine
habitat for plants from
around the world.

5 Historic Forest
One of New York Citys last surviving natural
forest areas includes red oak, white ash, tulip
trees, and birch.
Deserts
of the
Entrance
Americas 8 Everett Childrens Adventure Garden
Kids can discover the wonders of ecology
and plants.

7 Peggy Rockefeller
Rose Garden
Over 2,700 rose bushes
have been planted in
the Rose Garden, laid
Entrance out in 1988 according
Locator Map to the 1916 design.
 FA R T H E R A F I E L D  245

Palms of the
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Americas Gallery
A hundred majestic
Practical Information
palms soar into a
Kazimiroff Blvd, Bronx River
90-ft (27-m) glass
Parkway (Exit 7W).
dome. A tranquil
Tel (718) 817-8700.
reflecting pool is
Open 10am6pm TueSun (until
surrounded by
5pm mid-JanFeb).
tropical plants.
Closed pub hols. & Free all day
Wed & 10amnoon Sat (grounds
only). 7 8 - = Lectures.
nybg.org
1 The Enid A. Haupt
Conservatory consists Transport
of 11 interconnecting q 4, B, D to Bedford Park Blvd.
glass galleries housing @ Bx26.
A World of Plants,
including rain forests,
deserts, aquatic plants,
and seasonal exhibitions.
6 Garden Cafe
This is a delightful spot to enjoy
a meal. You can eat outside
on terraces overlooking
beautiful gardens.

2 Jane Watson
Conservatory
Irwin Perennial Garden
Flowering perennials are
arranged in dramatic patterns
according to height, shade,
color, and blooming time.

Tropical Lowland Rain

Forest Gallery

Courtyard Pool

9 Leon Levy Visitor Center

Aquatic Plants and This modern pavilion has a
Vines Gallery shop, a caf, and a visitor
orientation facility.

Tropical 3 Tram
Upland The half-hour tour of the
Rainforest gardens provides information
about horticultural, educational,
Gallery
and botanical research programs.
Passengers can alight at a
number of stops to explore
the gardens before reboarding.
246  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

9 Bronx Zoo
Opened in 1899, the Bronx Zoo is the
largest urban zoo in the United States. It
is home to more than 4,000 animals of 500
species, which live in realistic representations
of their natural habitats. The zoo is a leader in
the perpetuation of endangered species, such
as the Indian rhinoceros and the snow leopard.
Its 265 acres of woods, streams, and parklands
. The Congo Gorilla Forest
include, in season, a childrens zoo, the Butterfly This award-winning replica of a central
Garden, the Wild Asia Monorail, and camel rides. African rainforest is home to the largest
Other attractions include daily sea lion feedings, population of Western Lowland gorillas in the
primate training at the Monkey House, a one-of-a- US, as well as a family of pygmy marmosets,
the worlds smallest monkeys.
kind bug carousel, and a 4-D theater experience.

Baboon Reserve
Visitors walk along a dry
riverbed to see wildlife
in an Ethiopian
mountain habitat.

Asia entrance

Camel Rides
Children enjoy such seasonal
experiences as camel rides
and other attractions.

. African Plains . JungleWorld

Wild dogs, zebras, lions, giraffes, A climate-controlled tropical rain forest
and gazelles roam the African harbors mammals, birds, and reptiles from
Plains. Predators and prey are South Asia. The animals are kept apart from Monkeys in
separated by a moat. visitors by ravines, streams and cliffs. JungleWorld
 FA R T H E R A F I E L D  247

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Fordham Rd/Bronx River Pkwy.
Tel (718) 367-1010.
Open 10am5pm MonFri,
10am5:30pm Sat & Sun (Nov
Mar: 4:30pm daily). & by
Childrens Zoo Great donation Wed; separate fees
Kids can crawl through hornbill may apply to some exhibits.
a prairie dog tunnel, try on a
780=
turtle shell, and pet and feed
Childrens Zoo: Open AprOct.
the animals.
bronxzoo.com

Transport
. World of Birds q 2, 5 to E Tremont Ave.
Exotic birds soar free in the lush to Fordham.
surroundings of a rain forest. An @ Bx9, Bx12, Bx19, Bx22, Bx39,
Southern artificial waterfall rushes down BxM11, Q44.
Boulevard a 50-ft (15-m) fiberglass cliff in
this walk-through habitat.
entrance

KEY

1 4-D Theater
2 Wild Asia Monorail
3 Carter Giraffe Building
4 Wildfowl Marsh
5 World of Reptiles
6 Butterfly Garden
7 The Zoo Center
8 Madagascar!
9 Aquatic Bird House
0 Sea Bird Colony
q Monkey House
w Mouse-House
e Himalayan Highlands,
Rainey Gate Endangered species, such as snow
entrance leopards and red pandas, are here.

Bronx Parkway entrance

. Wild Asia Monorail

From May to October, the monorail
journeys through forests and meadows, . Tiger Mountain
where rhinos, tigers, and Mongolian wild Amur tigers are on view all year. Only 1 inch (2.5 cm) of
horses roam free. glass separates visitors from these magnificent wild cats.
248  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Queens e New York Hall

of Science
A big, sprawling borough, Queens has a wide variety of
46th Ave and 111th St Flushing
attractions in its residential and commercial areas, including Meadow, Corona Park. Tel (718) 699-
Long Island City, where museums and restaurants are 0005. q 111th St. Open Jul & Aug:
springing up all over. Development of the borough 9:30am5pm MonFri, 10am6pm Sat
accelerated after 1909, when the construction of Queensboro & Sun; SepJun: 9:30am2pm Mon
Thu, 9:30am 5pm Fri, 10am6pm Sat
Bridge made commuting easier. The citys main airports are & Sun. Closed Labor Day, Dec 25. &
here, and there are many different ethnic enclaves including 7 = 9 nysci.org
the Greek neighborhood of Astoria and various Asian
communities in Flushing. The science pavilion was built
for the 1964 Worlds Fair, with
stained glass set in concrete.
w Flushing as the Corona Dump, a It is now a hands-on museum
Meadow-Corona nightmarish place of salt of science and technology,
marshes and great piles of with exhibits on color, light,
Park smoldering trash. In The Great and physics. Kids love the
q Willets Point-Shea Stadium. Gatsby, author F. Scott Fitzgerald giant video screens and laser
See Sports pp3523. dubbed it the valley of ashes. optical exhibits.
It reeked of rotting garbage and
The site of New Yorks two glowed red at night. New Yorks
Worlds Fairs now offers Parks Commissioner Robert
expansive waterside picnic Moses was the driving force
grounds and a multitude behind its transformation. A
of attractions. These include whole mountain of trash was
the 41,000-seat Citi removed and the river was
Field stadium, home totally rechanneled. The
of the New York Mets marsh was drained, and
baseball team, and a sewage works were built,
popular site for rock helping to restore the area. The concrete curtain wall of the New York
concerts. Flushing This site was to serve as the Hall of Science
Meadow is also home location for the 1939 Worlds
to the National Tennis Fair, at which a world on the
Center (see p353), where brink of war saluted the elusive r Museum of
the prestigious United notion of world peace. the Moving Image
States Open is played. The Unisphere, symbol of the and Kaufman
The courts are open for 1964 fair, still dominates the
would-be Nadals, remains of the fairground. Astoria Studio
Sharapovas, and This giant hollow ball of 35th Ave at 36th St, Astoria. Museum
Federers for the green steel, built by the US (718) 784-0077. q 36th St. Steinway
remainder of the A 1900 Mutoscope at Steel Corporation, is 12 Museum: Open 10:30am5pm Tue
year. In the 1920s the Museum of the stories high and weighs Sun (to 8pm Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun).
this area was known Moving Image a massive 350 tons. Screenings: 7:30pm Fri, afternoon and
eves Sat & Sun. & (free 48pm Fri).
8 2pm Sat & Sun. Closed Memorial
Day, Thnksgv, Dec 25. Studio: Closed
to public. 7 - =
movingimage.us

In New Yorks filmmaking heyday,

Rudolph Valentino, W.C. Fields,
the Marx Brothers, and Gloria
Swanson all made films in the
Astoria Studio, which was
opened in 1920 by Paramount
Pictures. When the movies went
west, the army took over, making
training films from 1941 to 1971.
The complex stood empty
until 1977 when Astoria Motion
Picture and Television Foundation
was created to preserve it. The
Wiz, a musical starring Michael
The 1964 Worlds Fair Unisphere at Flushing Meadow-Corona Park Jackson and Diana Ross, was
 FA R T H E R A F I E L D
In 1981 one of the
studio buildings was
transformed into the
Museum of the Moving
Image, with interactive
displays on production
and theaters for the
screening of movies
and television, as well
as a special lecture hall.
There is a lot of
memorabilia on display,
from Ben Hurs chariot
to Star Trek costumes. The
main gallery draws from
the permanent collection
of over 85,000 movie
artifacts. A major expan-
sion of the museum has
created a state-of-the-art
Poster at the Museum of the Moving Image facility, with a 254-seat
theater, a video-screening
made here, helping to pay for ampitheater, and an educa-
restoration. Today, the studios tional 71-seat screening room.
house the largest moviemaking An airy caf serves drinks, baked
facilities on the East Coast. goods, and light meals.
Brooklyn
If Brooklyn were a separate city, it would be the countrys fourth
largest. It has a character all of its own. Many entertainment
greats Mel Brooks, Phil Silvers, Woody Allen, and Neil Simon
among them celebrate their birthplace with great affection
and humor. Brooklyn is a veritable melting pot, with West
Indians, Hasidic Jews, Russians, Italians, and Arabs living side
by side. Among the diverse neighborhoods are the historic
residential districts of Park Slope and Brooklyn Heights.
children and was founded
in 1899. Since then, it has
been a model, inspiration, and
consultant to the development
of more than 250 museums
for children across the country
and all over the world. Housed
in a hi-tech, specially designed
The bandstand at Prospect Park (see p250) underground building
dating from 1976,
y Brooklyn it is one of the most
Childrens Museum imaginative childrens
museums anywhere.
145 Brooklyn Ave. Tel (718) 735-4400. The layout of the
q Kingston (C, 3). Open 10am5pm building, which has
TueSun. Closed public hols. doubled in size and
Rooftop Theater: Open 6:308pm Fri, is a maze of
10am5pm Sat & Sun. Closed public
complex inter-
hols. & 7 - =
bchildmus.org
connected
passageways
The Brooklyn Childrens running off the
Museum was the first to main people
be designed especially for tube a huge A mask at the Brooklyn Childrens Museum
 249
t MoMA PS1,
Queens
2225 Jackson at 46th Ave, Long
Island City. Tel (718) 784-2084.
q E, M to 23rd St-Ely Ave; 7 to 45
Road-Courthouse Square; G to Court
Sq or 21 St-Van Alst. @ B61, Q67.
Open noon6pm ThuMon. Closed
Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 - ps1.org
Housed in an elementary school,
PS1 was founded in 1971 under a
scheme to transform abandoned
New York City buildings into
exhibition, performance, and
studio spaces for artists. The
museum is affiliated to the
Museum of Modern Art (see
pp1747) and is one of the
oldest art organizations in the
US devoted solely to modern art.
Temporary exhibitions are hosted
alongside permanent works and
many pieces are interactive. In
summer, music is performed in
the courtyard.
drainage pipe that connects
the four levels. The emphasis
here is on involvement and
hands-on exhibits and
everywhere you look there are
curiosities to be discovered,
experienced, made, or played
with. There is even a walk-on
piano like the one in the film
Big children of every age find
it quite irresistible.
Special exhibitions and events
are designed to help children
learn about the planet, resolve
their fears or problems, under-
stand other cultures,
and discover the
past. The squeals
of laughter that
are always heard
are a sign of
this museums
success in
teaching
both
children and
the young
at heart.
250  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
The facade of the Brooklyn Academy of Music
u Brooklyn
Academy of Music first-run independent films and
30 Lafayette Ave. Tel (718) 636-4100.
q Atlantic Ave, Nevins St (M, N, Q, R,
2, 3, 4, 5). & ^ 7 - = bam.
org See Classic and Contemporary
Music p342.
Home to the Brooklyn Phil-
harmonic, the Academy
of Music (BAM) is Brooklyns
leading cultural venue and the
oldest, founded in 1858. It offers
outstanding performances,
often tending toward the
innovative and avant-garde.
The classic 1908 building,
designed by Herts & Tallant, was
inaugurated with a production
of Gounods opera Faust
featuring the Neapolitan tenor
Enrico Caruso. Among the greats
who have performed here are
actress Sarah Bernhardt, ballerina
Anna Pavlova, musicians Pablo
Casals and Sergei Rachmaninoff,
poets Edna St. Vincent Millay and
Carl Sandburg, and statesman
Winston Churchill. Many
international touring groups
have made appearances here,
including Britains Royal
Shakespeare Company.
The BAM Next Wave Festival,
which usually runs over the last
three months of the year, has
presented contemporary artists
such as musicians David Byrne
The facade of the Brooklyn Public Library on Grand Army Plaza
and Philip Glass and
choreographers Pina
Bausch and Mark
Morris. The BAM
also runs the Harvey
Theater nearby, a
movie theater now
used for dance,
drama, and music
events. BAM Rose Cinemas show
BAMcinmatek has classics,
retrospectives, festivals, and
sneak previews.
The Soldiers and Sailors Arch at Grand
Army Plaza
i Grand
Army Plaza
Plaza St at Flatbush Ave. q Grand
Army Plaza (2, 3). Arch: Open for
occasional exhibitions.
Frederick Law Olmsted and
Calvert Vaux laid out this grand
oval in 1870 as a gateway to
Prospect Park. The Soldiers and
Sailors Arch and its sculptures
were added in 1892 as a tribute to
the Union Army. The bust of John
F. Kennedy here is the only official
New York monument to him.
In June, the plaza is the center
of the Welcome Back to Brooklyn
Festival for the famous and
not so famous people born
in Brooklyn.
Relief work on the Montauk Club
o Park Slope
Historic District
Streets from Prospect Park W below
Flatbush Ave, to 8th/7th/5th Aves.
q Grand Army Plaza (2, 3), 7th Ave (F).
This wonderful enclave of
beautiful Victorian town houses
was developed on the edge
of Prospect Park in the 1880s.
It served the upper-middle-class
professionals who were able
to commute into Manhattan
after the Brooklyn Bridge was
opened in 1883. The shady
streets are lined with two- to
five-story houses in every
architectural style popular in
the late 19th century, some with
the towers, turrets, and curlicues
so representative of the era.
Particularly fine examples are
in Romanesque Revival style,
with rounded entry arches.
The Montauk Club at 25
Eighth Avenue combines the
style of Venices Ca dOro palazzo
with the friezes and gargoyles of
the Montauk Indians, for whom
this popular 19th-century
gathering place was named.
p Prospect Park
q Grand Army Plaza, Prospect Park
(B, Q). 8 & information (718) 287-
3400. - = prospectpark.org
Olmsted and Vaux considered
this park, opened in 1867, better
than their earlier Central Park
(see pp20811). The Long
Meadow, a sweep of broad
lawns and grand vistas, is the
longest unbroken swath of
green space in New York.
Olmsteds belief was that a
feeling of relief is experienced
by entering them [the parks]
on escaping from the cramped,
confining and controlling
circumstances of the streets
of the town. That vision is still as
true today as it was a century ago.

Among the many notable
features are Stanford Whites
colonnaded Croquet Shelter,
and the pools and weeping
willows of the Vale of Cashmere.
The Music Grove bandstand
shows Japanese influences
and hosts both jazz and classical
music concerts throughout
the summer.
A favorite feature of the park
is the Camperdown Elm, an
ancient and twisted tree planted
in 1872. The Friends of Prospect
Park raise money to keep it and
all the park trees healthy. This old
elm has inspired many poems
and paintings. Prospect Park has
a wide variety of landscapes,
from classical gardens dotted
with statues to rocky
glens with running
brooks. A guided
tour with a ranger is
the best way to see
the park.
Carousel horse in Prospect Park
a Brooklyn
Museum
See pp2525.
s Brooklyn Botanic
Garden
900 Washington Ave. Tel (718) 623-
7200. q Prospect Pk (B, Q), Eastern
Pkwy (2, 3). Grounds Open AprSep:
8am6pm TueFri (10am Sat, Sun, &
public hols); OctMar: 8am4:30pm
(10am Sat, Sun, & public hols). Closed
Jan 1, Labor Day, Thanksgiving, Dec
25. & Marmid-Nov: free Tue &
10amnoon Sat; mid-Novlate Feb:
free for under-16s MonFri. 7 8
0 = bbg.org
Though it is not vast, you will
find that this 50-acre (20-ha)
garden holds many delights.
The area was designed by the
Olmsted Brothers in 1910 and
features an Elizabethan-style
FA R T H E R A F I E L D
An Atlantic green turtle at the New York Aquarium, on Coney Island
knot herb garden and one
of North Americas largest
collections of roses.
The central showpiece is a
Japanese hill-and-pond
garden, complete
with a teahouse
and Shinto shrine.
In late April and early
May the park promenade
is aglow with delicate
Japanese cherry blossoms,
which have prompted
an annual festival
featuring typical
Japanese culture, food,
and music. April is also
the time for tourists to
appreciate Magnolia Plaza,
where some 80 trees display
their beautiful, creamy blossoms
against a backdrop of daffodils
on Boulder Hill.
The Fragrance Garden is
planted in raised beds, where
the heavily scented, textured
and flavored plants are all
labeled in Braille, giving blind
visitors an opportunity to
identify them as well.
The conservatory houses
one of Americas largest bonsai
collections and some rare rain
forest trees, whose extracts
allow scientists to produce
life-saving drugs.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden lily pond
 251
d Coney Island
q Stillwell Ave (D, F, N, Q), W 8th St (F,
Q). New York Aquarium Surf Ave and
W 8th St. Tel (718) 265-FISH. Open
10am5pm daily (to 5:30pm Sat, Sun,
& hols). (JunAug: to 6pm MonFri &
7pm Sat, Sun & hols; NovMar: to
4:30pm daily). & last adm: 45 mins
before closing. - nyaquarium.
com Coney Island Museum 1208 Surf
Ave, nr W 12th St. Tel (718) 372-5159.
Open noon6pm Sat & Sun. &
coneyislandusa.com
In the mid-1800s, Brooklyn poet
Walt Whitman composed many
of his works on Coney Island, at
that time untamed Atlantic
coastline. By the 1920s, Coney
Island was billing itself as the
Worlds Largest Playground,
with three huge fairgrounds
providing hair-raising rides. The
subway arrived in 1920, and the
1921 boardwalk ensured Coney
Islands popularity throughout
the Depression.
A major attraction is the
New York Aquarium, with over
350 species. The Coney Island
Museum has memorabilia,
souvenirs, and relics of old rides.
Coney Island is in the process
of being modernized, much to
the chagrin of local residents,
who fear that its character will
be lost. However,
the boardwalk still
yields lovely ocean
views, and the
Cyclone roller
coaster has been
designated an
official city
landmark. The
Mermaid Parade
in June is a major
annual event.
252  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

a Brooklyn Museum
When it opened in 1897, the Brooklyn
Museum building, designed to be the
largest cultural edifice in the world,
was the greatest achievement of New
York architects McKim, Mead & White.
Though only one-sixth completed, the North facade, designed by McKim, Mead & White
museum is today one of the most impressive
cultural institutions in the United States, with
a permanent encyclopedic collection of some
one million objects, housed in a grand structure
. Female Figurine
covering 560,000 sq ft (41,805 sq m). This 5,000-year-old rare
statuette is a highlight of
Key the museums impressive
Arts of Africa and the Americas Egyptian collection.
Asian art
Prints, drawings, and photographs
Williamsburg Murals
Iris and B. Cantor
Egyptian and Classical art
Auditorium
Decorative arts
Painting and sculpture
Special exhibitions
Nonexhibition space
Chinese Jar
Cobalt blue fishes and
water plants adorn this
. Beaded Crown 14th-century Yuan
This 19th-century dynasty blue-and-white
crown from Nigeria is ceramic jar.
the ultimate symbol
of Yoruba kingship.

Third floor
Mezzanine
Gallery

Second floor

South entrance

First floor

Morris A.
and Meyer
Schapiro Wing

Main entrance
 B R O O K LY N M U S E U M  253

. An Out of Doors Study (1889) VISITORS CHECKLIST

Sargents portrait of French artist Paul
Helleu and his wife Alice was painted
Practical Information
during the couples visit to the Sargent
200 Eastern Pkwy, Brooklyn.
family at Fladbury.
Tel (718) 638-5000.
Open11am6pm WedSun (to
10pm Thu); 1st Sat of each month
(except Sep): 11am11pm (free).
Closed Jan 1, Thksg, Dec 25.
Fifth floor Donation expected. 7 9 8
- = Concerts, lectures.
brooklynmuseum.org
Luce visible
Transport
storage q 2, 3 to Eastern Parkway/
Brooklyn Museum. @ B41, B45,
B67, B69.

Luce Center for

American Art

. Winter Scene in
Brooklyn (1820)
Francis Guys depiction of
downtown Brooklyn is from the
American Identities Collection.

Fourth floor
The Dinner Party (1970s)
This is the centerpiece of the
Elizabeth A. Sackler Center for
Feminist Art.

Moorish Smoking
Room (1865)
This room is from
a house on West 54th
Street, bought by J. D.
Ibis Coffin (332330 BC) Rockefeller in 1884.
The sacred bird of ancient
Egypt merited a splendid
coffin of gold leaf and silver.

Alexander the Great
The military leader was portrayed
in alabaster in the 1st century BC.
Gallery Guide
The collection is on five floors, with African and New
World art on the first; prints, drawings, and Asian
art on the second; Egyptian, Classical, and European
painting and sculpture on the third; decorative art
on the fourth; and American art on the fifth. There is
special exhibition space on the first and fourth floors.
254  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Collection

The Brooklyn Museum houses one of the finest art
collections in the United States. Its strengths include
an outstanding collection of Native American art from
the Southwest; American period rooms; exquisite pieces
of ancient Egyptian and Islamic art; and important
American and European paintings.

Ancient American
Arts of Africa, artistic traditions are
the Pacific, and represented by
the Americas Peruvian textiles,
The Brooklyn Museum set a Central American gold,
precedent in the United States and Mexican
in 1923 by exhibiting African sculpture. A beautifully
objects as works of art rather preserved tunic from Seated Buddha torso in limestone,
than artifacts. Since then, the Peru, dating from AD 600, is so from India (late 3rd century AD)
African art collection has grown tightly woven that its vibrant
steadily in both importance symbolic designs appear to
and size. have been painted onto the Decorative Arts
Exhibits include a rare cloth rather than woven in The decorative arts collection
intricately carved ivory gong the traditional manner. reflects changes in domestic
from the Benin kingdom of The Oceanic collection life and design from the 17th
16th-century Nigeria, one of includes sculpture from the century to the present.
only five in existence. Solomon Islands, Papua New The Moorish Smoking Room,
The museum also has a Guinea, and New Zealand. from John D. Rockefellers
notable collection of Native brownstone house, embodies
American work, including elegant New York living in the
totem poles, textiles, and Asian Art 1880s. There is also a 192830
pottery. A 19th-century deer- Changing exhibitions from Art Deco study from a Park
skin shirt, once worn by a chief the museums permanent Avenue apartment, including
of the Blackfoot tribe, depicts collection of Chinese, Japanese, a walk-in bar that was hidden
his brave and daring exploits Korean, Indian, Southeast Asian, behind paneling during the
in battle. and Islamic art are always on Prohibition era (see pp323).
display. Japanese and More than 350 items from the
Chinese paintings, Indian museums collection of silver,
miniatures, and Islamic furniture, ceramics, and textiles
calligraphy are featured in the Luce Center
complement the for American Art. Although
Asian sculpture, centered mostly on American
textiles, and art, the selection also includes
ceramics. The pieces of Native American and
collections of Spanish colonial art.
Japanese folk art,
Chinese
cloisonn
(enamel work),
and Oriental
carpets are of
particular note.
Good examples
of Buddhist art
range from a variety of
Chinese, Indian, and
Southeast Asian Buddhas
to a mandala-patterned
temple banner
from 14th-century
Tibet, painted in
Blackfoot tribe deerskin shirt, decorated with porcupine quills rich, luminous Normandie chrome pitcher,
and glass beads (19th century) watercolors. by Peter Mller-Munk (1935)

The Luce galleries are
arranged thematically and
explore crucial moments
and ideas in American
visual culture over the past
300 years. Among the collection
are pieces by John Singer
Sargent, Frank Lloyd Wright, and
Georgia OKeeffe.
Egyptian, Classical,
and Ancient Middle
Eastern Art
Recognized as among the worlds
finest, the Egyptian collection
holds many masterpieces. It
begins with an early female figure
dating from 3500 BC, and
encompasses sculptures, statues,
tomb paintings, and reliefs as
well as funerary paraphernalia.
Of the latter, the most unusual is
the coffin of an ibis, probably
recovered from the vast animal
cemetery of Tuna el-Gebel in
Middle Egypt. The ibis was a
sacred bird representing the god
Thoth, and this coffin is made of
solid silver and wood overlaid
with gold leaf, with rock crystal
for the birds eyes. These galleries
have been renovated into a state-
of-the-art, hi-tech installation.
Among the artifacts from the
Greek and Roman civilizations
are statuary, pottery, bronzes,
jewelry, and mosaics.
Among the Ancient Near
and Middle Eastern exhibits are
an extensive collection of
pottery and 12 alabaster
reliefs from the Assyrian
palace of King Ashurnasirpal
II. These date from around
883-859 BC and depict the
king fighting, overseeing
his crops, and purifying the
sacred tree, a major icon in
Assyrian religion.
Sandstone reliefs from Thebes in Egypt (c.760656 BC), depicting the great god Amun-Re
and his consort Mut
B R O O K LY N M U S E U M
Pierre de Wiessant (about 1886) by Auguste
Rodin, from his Burghers of Calais group
Painting and Sculpture
This section contains works
from the 14th century to the
present, including a well-
known and outstanding
19th-century French art
collection with works by
Degas, Rodin, Monet, Czanne,
Matisse, and Pissarro. It also
boasts one of the largest
holdings of Spanish Colonial
paintings and one of the best
collections of North American
paintings to be found in the
United States. The museums
20th-century American
collection includes,
 255
appropriately, Brooklyn
Bridge by Georgia OKeeffe.
The Sculpture Garden
holds architectural
ornamentation taken from
demolished New York
buildings, including statues
rescued from the original
Penn Station, and a replica
of the Statue of Liberty.
Rotherhithe, an etching by James McNeill
Whistler (1860)
Prints, Drawings,
and Photographs
The museum has an important
collection of prints, drawings,
and photographs that are
constantly rotated for conser-
vation purposes. The range
includes a rare woodcut print by
Drer entitled The Great
Triumphal Chariot and works
by Piranesi. The Impressionist
and Post-Impressionist collection
includes works by Toulouse-
Lautrec and Mary Cassatt, the
only American woman
associated with the Impressionist
movement. There are lithographs
by James McNeill Whistler,
Winslow Homer engravings, and
a superb selection of drawings
by Fragonard, Paul Klee, van
Gogh, Picasso, and Gorky, among
others, many of them in black
and white.
The photography collection
consists mainly of works by
major 20th-century American
photographers, including a
1924 portrait of Mary Pickford
by Edward Steichen and work
by Margaret Bourke-White,
Berenice Abbott, and Robert
Mapplethorpe.
256  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

Staten Island g Jacques Marchais

Museum of Tibetan
Apart from the famous ferry ride, Staten Island and its
attractions are not well known to New Yorkers in general.
Art
Residents feel so ignored, in fact, that theyve talked about 338 Lighthouse Ave. Tel (718) 987-
3500. @ S74 from ferry. Open 15pm
seceding from the city. Visitors who venture beyond the ferry WedSun (DecMar: FriSun only).
terminal, however, will be pleasantly surprised to find hills, Closed public hols. & 8 =
lakes, and greenery, with expanses of open space, amazing tibetanmuseum.org
harbor views, and well-preserved early New York buildings.
One of the biggest surprises here is a cache of Tibetan art A hilltop provides a tranquil
that is hidden away in a replica of a Buddhist temple. setting for one of the largest
collections of privately owned
Tibetan art of the 15th to the
and has been preserved 20th centuries outside Tibet.
as an example of an The main building is a replica of
early New York a mountain monastery with an
settlement. authentic altar in three tiers,
The Voorlezer crowded with gold, silver, and
House, built in the bronze figures.
Dutch era before 1696, The second building is used
is the oldest elementary as a library. The soothing garden
school to be found in has some stone sculptures,
the country. The including life-size Buddhas. The
Stephens General Store, museum was built in 1947 by
which opened in 1837, Mrs. Jacques Marchais, a dealer
doubled as the local in Asian art. The Dalai Lama paid
post office. It has been his first visit here in 1991.
well restored, right
The Voorlezer House at Richmond Town down to the contents
of the shelves. The
f Historic complex, set on 100 acres
Richmond Town (40 ha), includes wagon sheds, a
courthouse built in 1837, houses,
441 Clarke Ave. Tel (718) 351-1611. several shops, and a tavern. There
@ S74 from ferry. Open 15pm are also seasonal workshops
WedSun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, where traditional rural crafts
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 8 0 are demonstrated to visitors.
= historicrichmondtown.org
St. Andrews Church, dating
to 1708, and its old graveyard
There are now 29 buildings, 14 are just across the Mill Pond A gazebo at the Snug Harbor
of which are open to the public, stream, and the Historical Cultural Center
in New Yorks only restored Society Museum is in the
village and outdoor museum. County Clerks and Surrogates h Snug Harbor
The village was first named Office. The toy room is a delight. Cultural Center
Cocclestown, after the local
shellfish, but was soon 1000 Richmond Terrace. Tel (718) 448-
corrupted to 2500. @ S40 from ferry to Snug
Cuckoldstown, Harbor Gate. Grounds: Open dawn
dusk daily. Art Gallery: Open10am
much to the
5pm TueSun. & donation. Childrens
annoyance of the
Museum: Open noon5pm (summer
residents. By
11am5pm) TueSun. Closed Jan 1,
the end of the Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 limited. 8
Revolutionary War, = snug-harbor.org
the alternative
name of Founded in 1801 as a haven for
Richmondtown aged sailors, Snug Harbor is now
had been an arts center, with a complex of
adopted. It was 28 buildings in various stages of
the county seat restoration. There are five stately
until Staten Greek Revival gems dating from
Island was 1831 to 1880, the finest such
Cologne at the made part of Sacred sculpture at the Jacques Marchais collection in the US. The oldest,
General Store the city in 1898, Museum of Tibetan Art the Main Hall, is the Visitors

Center. This leads through
to the Newhouse Center for
Contemporary Art, but the
ships in the stained-glass
windows are a reminder of its
origins. Other buildings house
the award-winning Staten
Island Childrens Museum
and Veterans Memorial Hall,
used for indoor performances.
A sculpture festival and summer
shows are held on the lawns.
The Staten Island Botanical
Garden has a noted orchid
collection and a beautiful
rose garden.
Snug Harbor is the legacy
of a Scottish sailor, Robert
Richard Randall, who became
rich in the Revolutionary War
and bequeathed this property
to be used by seamen, enabling
them to enjoy its harbor views.
Even Farther Afield
The village of Broad Channel at Jamaica Bay
k Jamaica Bay
Wildlife Refuge
Center
Cross Bay Blvd at Broad Channel. Tel
(718) 318-4340. q Broad Channel (A).
Open sunrise to sunset; visitor center:
8:30am5pm daily. 8 seasonal (call
ahead). nps.gov/gate
The marshes and uplands of the
Refuge cover an area almost the
size of Manhattan. Over 300
species of birds live here either
seasonally or all year round. On
the main Atlantic migratory path,
the Refuge is at its best in spring
and autumn, when the skies are
filled with skeins of geese and
ducks. The park rangers lead
hikes and nature walks for
FA R T H E R A F I E L D
Clear Comfort, Alice Austens lifetime residence
j Alice
Austen House
2 Hylan Blvd. Tel (718) 816-4506.
@ S 51 from ferry to Hylan Blvd.
Open noon5pm ThuSun; grounds:
to dusk. Closed Jan, Feb, public hols.
& Donation 7 limited. 8 =
aliceausten.org
This small cottage built around
1690 has the delightful name of negatives dating from 1880
Clear Comfort. It was the home
of the photographer Alice
Austen, who was born in 1866
weekend visitors wear suitable
shoes and clothes, and take
along a zoom-lens camera or
binoculars to get the best from
your visit.
l Jones Beach
State Park
Beaches. Open all year. & late May
Labor Day. Tel (516) 785-1600.
nysparks.state.ny.us/parks
Long Island Railroad: Penn Station
to Jones Beach; train schedule (late
MayLabor Day); (718) 217-5477.
Jones Beach Theater; (516) 221-1000.
7 jonesbeach.com
Jones Beach was the creation of
Robert Moses, New Yorks Parks
Commissioner (see p248), who
 257
and who lived in this
house for most of her
life. She documented
life on the island, in
Manhattan, and also
on trips to other
parts of the country
and on her travels to
Europe. She lost all
her money in the stock market
crash of 1929, and her poverty
forced her into a public
poorhouse at the age of 84.
One year later, her photographic
talent was finally recognized by
Life magazine, which published
an article about her, earning
her enough money to enter a
nursing home. She left 3,500
to 1930. Today, the Friends of
Alice Austen House mounts
exhibitions of her best work.
transformed this narrow spit
of land into Long Islands most
accessible and popular beach
in 1929. There are sand dunes,
surf on the Atlantic side, and
sheltered water in the bay. There
is also miniature golf, swimming
pools, restaurants, and the
Jones Beach Theater, which
hosts concerts in the summer.
Robert Moses State Park is on
the next island to the east, Fire
Island, which is over 30 miles
(48 km) long, yet less than
900 yd (800 m) across. Areas of
the island are totally unspoiled,
with long stretches of white
sands. Fire Island also has one
of the few remaining forests
on the Eastern Seaboard.
Fire Islands communities are
small and varied. Some are
favored by singles looking for
the company of the opposite
sex, others are sedate and
family-orientated, and still
others are favorites with New
Yorks large gay community.
Sunbathers basking at Jones Beach
 NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA  259

SEVEN GUIDED WALKS

Walking in New York is an excellent way to
discover the human scale of the city. The
following 16 pages explore the unique
character and charm of New York through
seven thematic walks. These range from
an exploration of Greenwich Village and
SoHos literary and artistic connections (see
pp2623) to a trip across the Brooklyn Bridge
for spectacular views and a glimpse of
19th-century New York (see pp2689).
In addition, each of the 15 areas of
Manhattan described in the Area by Area
section of this book has a short walk on its
Street-by-Street map, taking you past many
of the interesting sights in that area.
Various organizations run walking tours of
the city. These range from serious appraisals of
architectural history to a guide to the ghosts of
Broadway. Details of tour organizers are listed
on page 379. Although New York is generally a
safe place to roam, take care of your personal
belongings while walking (see p3645), as in
any major city. Plan your route ahead and be
extra cautious when exploring after dark.

Harlem
Riverfront promenade, Brooklyn (pp2745)
(see pp2689)

The Chinese Garden Court at the

Metropolitan Museum of Art,
Upper East Side (see pp2667)

Greenwich Village
and SoHo
(pp2623)

Key
Walk routes

Upper East Side

(pp2667)

East Village
(pp2723)
Waterfront Lower East Side,
(pp27071)
Chinatown, and
Little Italy
(pp26061)

Brooklyn
(pp2689)

0 kilometers 4

0 miles 2

Walking across Brooklyn Bridge, downtown Manhattan (see pp8891)

260  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Walk in the Lower East Side,

Chinatown, and Little Italy
This walk is through old immigrant neighborhoods that store 8 (49), you can sample
have given New York its unique flavor, and illustrates the sour, half-sour, and hot pickles.
ever-changing texture of the city as neighborhoods are Head back along Grand Street,
rediscovered and one set of newcomers replaces another. taking a left on Eldridge Street,
Along the way you can experience a variety of cultures which will take you, beyond
Canal Street, to the grand
and cuisines. Sunday is the most lively day. See more Eldridge Street Synagogue 9
about Lower East Side on pages 94103. (12), the first Eastern European
synagogue in New York, which
The Lower East Side Turn right on Rivington Street also houses a museum on the
Begin on East Houston Street, for the Shaarai Shomoyim First Jewish community.
the border between the Lower Romanian-American Congre-
East Side (LES) and the East gation 5 (89), a synagogue in a Key
Village, where some of the best handsome 1890 brick building. Walk route
traditional Jewish cuisine can be The LES is now home to Good viewing point
found at Yonah Schimmel Knish cutting-edge boutiques, trendy
Subway station
Bakery 1 (137). In the same clubs, and hip restaurants. On
location since 1920, Russ & Rivington Street, cool fashion
KE
Daughters, 2 shops share the blocks with NM
AR
(179) is run the old. Make a E
ST
RE
by the great- left onto Orchard ET

grandson of Street, the

the founder traditional center
ET
RE

and famed for of the Jewish LES.

ST

smoked fish The sidewalk

e
E
TR

and caviar. Katzs stands sell GR

N

AN
Delicatessen 3 (205) mostly cheap
CE

D
ST
ET

has been a fixture for merchandise, ET

RE

Grand St
RE
ST

over 100 years. 6 An 1885 iron from the Lower East but many B.D
ST

Canal St
Continue to Norfolk stores offer J.Z
Side Tenement Museum

ET
RE
TT

TH

HE
Street and turn right to discount STE
ST
MO

R
BE

ST
IE

designer leather and fashion.

IZA

see the Angel Orensanz Center

ST
EL

RY

4 (172), housed in New Yorks All are closed on Saturday, so BA

YA
CH

RD
oldest synagogue building. Sunday is the busiest day. ST CA
NA
w 0 L
A must stop for historians
J

STR
ST

EET
q
RY

Tips for Walkers is the Lower East Side

ST
ER

Tenement Museum 6
LB

TT

Y
MU

Starting point: East Houston St.

ER
MO

(108). An original tenement

W

Length: 2 miles (3.2 km).

has been restored to show
BO

STREET
DIVISION
Getting there: Take the subway
how three immigrant families
F or V to Second Avenue; exit East
Houston at Eldridge. Other stops: lived from 1874 to the 1930s.
AY
Take a short detour to the right EAST BROADW
F to Delancey; J, M, Z to Essex.
The M15 bus stops on East down Broome Street for another
Houston and on the corner of unique survivor, the Kehila
Delancey and Allen Streets; M14A Kedosha Janina Synagogue
and M9 run along Essex Street. and Museum 7 (280), a small 0 meters 500

Returning from Chinatown-Little but fascinating congregation 0 yards 500

Italy, Canal Street station is served with a little upstairs museum.
by the J, N, Q, R, and 6 trains. Return to
Stopping-off points: Little Italys Orchard Street,
cafs are perfect for coffee and continuing
cakes. For more substantial fare, along to the
Hop Kee at 21 Mott Street is good right. A left at
for Chinese food, or for Italian on
Grand Street
Mulberry Street, Il Cortile (125) or
will bring you
Il Palazzo (151). Il Laboratorio del
into New Yorks
Gelato, at 188 Ludlow Street, is a
popular spot in summer, offering former pickle
dozens of flavors of ice cream district on
and sorbet. Essex. At The
Pickle Guys Clothes vendors at Orchard Street market
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  261

Chinatown decidedly unusual flavors such

Turn around and return to Canal as black sesame, taro, and zen
Street, pausing to admire the butter, as well as traditional
spire of the Chrysler Building ones. While still on Bayard, have
and the city skyline in view in a look at all the Chinese political
the distance from Eldridge. Turn posters and messages on the
left and cross the Bowery, where Wall of Democracy, then turn
many jewelry shops are found, back and walk to Mulberry
remnants of the citys original Street. The curve next to
Diamond District 0 (1). As you Columbus Park was Mulberry
continue, the shops give way Bend w, once notorious for
to stalls selling an exotic array of gang murders and mayhem.
vegetables, and butcher shops
2 Russ & Daughters with rows of roast ducks in the
windows. At 200 Canal Street is
EA
ST
HO
Kam Man Food Products. One
US
TO of the largest Chinese markets
1 N
ST
RE in the area, it is a fascinating
ET
2 place to explore. Turn
3 left from Canal
ET
T
RY

RE
EE

ET
ST
STR

ET
WE

RE
RE

ST
ET

AN
ST
ET

TO
ST
BO

RE

N
RE

ET
ST

4
E

ST
D

ET

RE
STI

RE
AR
ST

RIV ET
EE
RE

IN
Y

ST
RY

CH

GT
ET

STR
T
H
WA

ON
CH

KS
YT

OR

ST
RE

RE
SE
E

OL

ET
RS
RK

ST
IDG

ES
FO

RF
N
PA

5
K
DR

NO
LE

OL
EL

Bowery
ON
AL

FF

J.Z e An Italian deli in Little Italy

SU

INT
OW

DE
T

CL

LA
DL
EL

NC
Little Italy
LU

EY
EV

RIV
ST IN
Essex Street GT
Walk up Mulberry Street toward
OS

RE ON
ET ST
7 F RE
RO

ET
Grand Street, and you are
6
D.

Delancey Street suddenly in Little Italy e.

ET

J.M.Z
RE
ET
RA

Small in area though it is, and

RE

ST

BR
SA

ET

OO
ST

encroached on by Chinatown,
GE

ME
RE

ST
T
ID
H

RE
EE
ST

ET
YT

this is a colorful few blocks of

DR

STR
RS

ET
EL

Old-World restaurants, coffee

FO

RE

OL

ON
ST

FF

GR
T

8 shops, and stores selling home-

EE

INT

AN
SU
ET

D
STR

made pasta, sausages, breads,

CL

ST
RE

RE
EE
ST
N

ET
and pastries.
STR
LE

D
AR
AL

The Italian
OW
CH

DL
OR

population has
EX
LU

ESS

9 W H SEWARD dwindled over the

PA R K
East Broadway
years, but a staunch
F STRAUS
SQUARE group of merchants
AY
EAST BROADW remain, determined
to retain the areas
Italian atmosphere. Their
stronghold is Mulberry Street,
Pretzel seller on Orchard Street between Broome and Canal
streets, with a few shops
to Mott Street, and youll know holding their own on Grand
you are right in the heart of Street near Mulberry. If you
Chinatown by all the Chinese continue to walk on Grand,
neon signs. There are hundreds however, you are quickly back
of restaurants here, from holes- into Chinatown.
in-the-wall to haute cuisine, all The big event of the year
offering a chance to taste is the Feast of San Gennaro,
unusual fare. For spiritual named for the patron saint
sustenance. visit the Eastern of Naples. For 11 nights in
States Buddhist Temple q in September, Mulberry Street is
Mott Street (64b). jammed with locals and visitors
At Bayard Street, stop for an enjoying the parades and the
ice cream at the Chinatown Ice Italian food, with rows of
Kam Man Food Products at 200 Canal Street Cream Factory (65), which offers sizzling sausage stalls.
262  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in
Greenwich Village and SoHo
A stroll through the patchwork quilt of streets in Greenwich
Village takes you to where New Yorks best-known writers and
artists have lived, worked, and played. It ends with a tour of
SoHos galleries and museums, where established artists show
their work. For more details on sights in Greenwich Village,
see pages 11017, and for SoHo sights, see pages 1049.
Author Mark Twain, who lived
on 10th Street
West 10th Street
The junction of West 8th Street
and 6th Avenue 1 has many
book, music, and clothing
stores nearby. Walk up Sixth
to West Ninth Street to see
(on the left at 425) Jefferson
Market Courthouse 2.
Turn right at West 10th Street
3 to the Alexander Onassis
Center for Hellenic Studies
(58). A passageway at the
front once led up to the Tile
Club, a gathering place for
the artists of the Tenth Street
Studio, where Augustus
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: 8th St/6th Ave.
Length: 2 miles (3.2 km).
Getting there: Take subway train
A, B, C, D, E, or F to West 4th
Street-Washington Square station
(8th Street exit). Fifth Avenue
buses M2 and M3 stop at 8th
Street. From here, walk one block
west to 6th. The M5 bus loops
near Washington Square along
8th Street and up Sixth Avenue.
Stopping-off points: The Pink
Tea Cup, 88 Seventh Ave South, is
good for lunch. Fanellis Caf, 94
Prince Street, has been serving
customers since 1847 and was
once a speakeasy.
e Facade in Washington Mews
Saint-Gaudens, John LaFarge,
and Winslow Homer lived. Square, the busy hub of the
Mark Twain lived at 24 West Village. The Circle Repertory
10th Street, and Edward Theater 8, which premiered
Albee at 50 West 10th. plays by Pulitzer Prizewinner
Back across Sixth Avenue is Lanford Wilson, is now closed.
Milligan Place 4, with 19th- Cross Seventh Avenue and
century houses, and Patchin bear left on to Grove STRE
ET
0TH
Place 5, where the poets E. E. Street. At the corner of W E S T 1
T
TREE
Cummings and John Masefield Bedford Street, you CHRI
STOP
HER S
ET
both lived. Farther on is the cant miss Twin Peaks
STRE
site of the Ninth Circle bar 6, 9 (102 Bedford), a
ST RE ET
which when it opened in 1898 home for artists in
ICH
was known as Regnaneschis. the 1920s. Turn back
N
It was the subject of John around to look at
IN G TO
ENW
N
Sloans painting Regnaneschis the northeast
ST RE ET
H U D SO
W A SH
GRE
Saturday Night. Playwright corner of Bedford
Edward Albee first saw the and Grove streets
question Whos afraid of 0: the exterior of
Virginia Woolf? scrawled this edifice had a
on a mirror here. recurring role in the TV
sitcom Friends as
the characters
apartment building.
75 Bedford is the
narrowest house in
the Village, and was
once the home of
feminist poet Edna
St. Vincent Millay.
Walk up Carmine to
Sixth Avenue and
turn right at Waverly
Place. At 116 Waverly
q, Anne Charlotte
Lynch, an English
teacher, held weekly
gatherings in her
town house for such
eminent friends as
Herman Melville and
9 The unusual exterior of Twin Peaks Edgar Allan Poe, who
gave his first reading
Greenwich Village of The Raven here.
Turn left at Waverly Place past A detour left of just half
the Three Lives Bookstore (154 a block will bring you to
West 10th St), a typical literary MacDougal Alley w, a lane
gathering spot, to Christopher of carriage houses in which
Street and the Northern Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney
Dispensary 7. had her studio. She opened the
Follow Grove Street along first Whitney Museum here in
Christopher Park to Sheridan 1932, just behind the studio.
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  263

Washington Square
Back on MacDougal, turn left
to Washington Square North,
to see the finest Greek Revival
houses in the United States.
Built of red brick, they have
marble balustrades and
entrances flanked by columns.
Writer Henry James set his
Washington Square in No.
18, his grandmothers home.
GR
EEN

Washington Square Park and Arch

WI
CH

ST RE ET
12 TH
UE

54
W ES T
AV

W SoHo
6
EN

ES
E

T1
W AV A CE

E)

1T Walk south on Thompson, a

AV

H
PL
AV

ST
ER LE Y

2 WEST 3
RE
10 TH
ST
typical Village street lined with
H

ET
W ES T
UE
6T

10
Christopher St- bars, cafs, and shops. Turn left at
EN

TH
S(

Sheridan Sq
7
ST
ICA

AV

RE
1 1 ET
Houston, SoHos northern limit,
E
AC

8
ER

TH

PL

W
and right on West Broadway,
AM

AV
9 ROVE ST
FIF

TY

ER
LY EA
H

q
SI

G
w
ST lined with some of the citys
E

ER

0
10
NT

TH

WASHINGTON
BED

PL TH
IV

AC MEWS EA ST
most famous galleries along
UN

E ST RE
FO

OF
VE

ET
e 9T
RD

W H
ES ST with a large number of chic
UE

EA
SE

T RE
STR

4T WASHINGTON ST ET
EN

H SQ PARK 8T
and arty boutiques.
EET

ST H
J

ST
AV

RE
W
ST
West 4th St- ET AV
ER
8th St-NYU Turn left at Spring Street
IN E Washington Sq N.R
r
M LY
CAR A.B.C.D.E.F.M W PL for yet more tempting shops,
AS AC
HI E
E)

BL
NG
then right at Greene Street t,
E

EE TO
AC
AV

CK N
ER
PL
which is the heart of the Cast-
PL

ET

ST
Houston Iron Historic District. Many
RE
H

RE
A

Street ET
DI

ST

A
6T

of these fine buildings now

W

1
AR

W
S (

ES
GU

T BL
house art galleries.
A

EE
R
CE
ICA

CK
LA

Pause at Fifth ER Turn left at the end of Greene

ER

BR

ST
M
ET

HO RE
Avenue to Street to Canal Street, the end
ER

RE

ET
US
ET
ST

TO
RE

look back at of SoHo, to see how quickly

AM

AN

N
ST

S T Broadway-
IV

ET

Lafayette St Washington the atmosphere of New York

LL

Spring St
RE
PS

B.D.F.M
SU

C.E
ST

Square Park, with can change. This noisy street

M

ET
O

SP
ER

RE
TH

RI
E

its famous is full of hawkers and discount

ST

N
ST

G
TH

NE
O

Washington Square electronics stores. You can

W

EE

ET
AY
OF

GR

Arch. Go across to Two explore bargains for the next

RE
DW

ST

Prince St
Fifth Avenue; opposite is two blocks and then turn left
UE

ST
OA

RE N.R
ET
BR

Washington Mews e, up Broadway. Keen shoppers

EN

AY
R
CE
T

DW
ES

an elegant carriage house can turn right on Spring Street

ER
AV

BR
OA

Canal St R A
G t OO complex. John Dos Passos, and head for the NoLita district,
BR

M
N E
A.C.E D Edward Hopper, and Rockwell featuring clothes by trendy,
ST ST
RE RE
ET Kent lived in the studio at No. aspiring designers.
C
A

ET
14a at various times.
N
A
L

LI
SP
EN
Go back up Washington
A
RD Square North, past some
ST
RE
ET elegant houses. Writer Edith
W
ST
A
LK
ER
RE Wharton lived at 7 Washington
ET
Square North. Now walk
ST beneath the arch and across
Washington Square Park. On the
left, as you leave the park, is the
fine Judson Memorial Church
0 meters 500
and Tower r by Stanford White
0 yards 500 and the NYU Loeb Student
Key Center. The Center was once a
boarding house, known as the
Walk route
house of genius, and is where
Good viewing point Theodore Dreiser wrote An
Subway station American Tragedy. t Cast-iron facade, Greene Street

Footbridge and colorful trees in Central Park

266  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A Two-Hour Walk in the Upper East Side

A promenade along upper Fifth Avenue and its environs will
take you past the best remaining examples of New Yorks
turn-of-the-century gilded age. A stroll through the old
German district of Yorkville leads to Gracie Mansion, official
residence of the citys mayor, dating from 1799. For details
on Upper East Side sights, see pages 184205.
o
From the Frick to the Met A few blocks on, between EA

r
ST

oi
93
Begin at the Frick mansion 1, Lexington and Third, is a fine EA RD

rv
ST ST
p a 92 RE

se
built in 191314 for coal row of town houses 6. Back on ND ET

Re
ST
EA RE
magnate Henry Clay Fifth Avenue,

UE
ST ET
91
ST i

EN
Frick and home to an walk to 75th ST
RE

AV
ET
exquisite art collec- Street, to

UE
tion (pp2045).

EN
ON
Many such mansions

AV
IS
AD
were built as New

RK
M
Yorks first families

PA
E)
outdid each other
IL 86th Street
with miniature
M
4.5.6
Versailles chteaux
M

EA
EU

and Venetian w UE
ST
US

EN

palazzos. Most of EA 86

E
q
ST TH

AV
(M

AV

those still standing EA

N
84
have now become
ST TH e

TO
N
UE

EA

NG
either institutions or u Church of the Holy Trinity ST 83 ST
IS
EN

RD RE
RK

UE

XI
ET
AD

museums. The apartment

AV

82
LE
EN
PA

ND ST
90 RE
M

building opposite the Frick is ET

AV

8
AL

ST
typical of those where todays
H

RE
ET
FT
TR

EA EA
affluent New Yorkers live. ST
ST EA
RK
FI

ST
N

81
East on 70th is one of the
PA

S
CE

UE

77 T
TH 79 EA
7 TH ST
EN

citys top art galleries, Hirschl & 80

TH ST
RE
AV

ST ST
Adler 2 (21). Walk up Madison RE
ET
UE

77th Street E ST
to the corner of 72nd Street, EA 6 E
T RE
E
EN

ST AS T
75 T7
N

to the big Polo-Ralph 5 TH 8T

TO

AV

EA ST H
UE

4 ST RE EA
Lauren store 3, the 1898 74 ET ST
NG

TH 77
EN

ST TH ST
French Renaissance RE
XI

RE
D

EA ET EA ET
AV

ST ST
LE

IR

73 76
home of Gertrude R D T H S TR
1
TH

E A S T E
ST ET
3 RE
ND

Rhinelander Waldo. 2
7 2N
DS
E T
EA
6 ST
CO

TR RE
Wander inside to ST
71
ST
EE
T EA
ET
SE

ST ST
see the elegant EA
ST
70
RE
E T
75
T H
TH ST
restored interior. EA
ST
RE
EA
ST
ST ET 74
Walk back toward Fifth on the 69
TH EA
ST
TH
ST
ST 73
north side of 72nd, past two RE
ET RD
ST
limestone beauties that once
housed the Lyce Franais de 0 meters 500
New York 4. Continue along 18th-century French-style
0 yards 500
Fifth Avenue to 73rd Street. Turn chteau is now the New York
east to 11, Joseph Pulitzers University Institute of Fine Arts 8.
former home 5. see No. 1, the former At 79th Street and Fifth, the
residence of Edward former home of financier Payne
S. Harkness, son of Whitney, is the French Embassy
a founder of 9, and 2 East 79th is the
Standard Oil. Ukrainian Institute of America
It is now the 0. On the southeast corner
Common- of 82nd Street is Duke-Semans
wealth Fund House q, one of the few grand
7. At 1 East Fifth Avenue residences that
78th, the tob- are still privately owned. Save
acco million- another full day for the
aire James Metropolitan Museum of
0 Ukrainian Institute of America B. Dukes Art w at 82nd.
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  267

Tips for Walkers

Starting point: Frick Collection.
Length: 3 miles (4.8 km).
Getting there: Take subway train
6 to 68th Street and Lexington,
then walk west (left) three blocks
to Fifth Avenue. Or take the M1,
M2, M3, or M4 bus up Madison
Avenue to 70th Street and walk
one block west.
Stopping-off points: Try the
cafs at the Whitney and
Guggenheim museums. Head to
Caf Sabarsky at the Neue Galerie
Carl Schurz Park Promenade (5th Ave/86th St) for Austrian
food, or try the Heidelberg Caf
Yorkville Heidelberg Caf and German (2nd Ave off 86th St) for authentic
Turn east on 86th deli Schaller & Weber r for a Bavarian. Madison Avenue
Street for what is left of break, or try Papaya Kings hot between 92nd and 93rd has
EA
ST
90 German Yorkville dogs (179 East 86th Street). many places to eat, including
TH
ST
Bremen House e, cross Sarabeths Kitchen, with its
excellent weekend brunch.
Second Avenue, then East River and Gracie Mansion
EA
turn right to the Henderson Place t at East End
EA
ST
Avenue is a cluster of 24 Queen
ST
Anne town houses. Carl Schurz
EA u
89
TH
ST 88
Park opposite was named for the
TH
ST citys most prominent
RE
r ST 87
TH ST
ET
German immigrant,
RE RE
ET

ET
editor of Harpers
ST
RE
y Weekly and the New
UE

ET
EA
ST York Post. The park
EN

85
TH
EA promenade atop
t
UE
AV

ST
84 S TR East River Drive leads
J

TH
EN

EA EE
T
T

ST
to a view of Hell Gate,
AV

83
RS

ST
E

RD RE
NU

CARL
EA ET
where the Harlem River,
FI

ST
SCHURZ
VE

82
RK

ND ST
Long Island Sound, and
DA

RE
ET PARK
YO

EN

ST
RE
New York harbor meet. From
ST

ET
the walkway you can see the p The Cooper-Hewitt Museum
EA

back of Gracie Mansion y, the

mayors official residence. Walk
west on 88th Street past the
Key
Church of the Holy Trinity u,
Walk route and at Lexington Avenue go to
Good viewing point 92nd Street and west past two
Subway station
of the few wooden houses left
in Manhattan i.
i Wooden houses on 92nd Street
Carnegie Hill
Back on Fifth Avenue, turn
downtown past the Felix
Warburg Mansion of 1908, now
the Jewish Museum o, and
continue to 91st Street and the
huge Andrew Carnegie home,
now the Cooper-Hewitt Museum
p. Built in 1902 in the style of an
English country manor, it gave
the area the unofficial name of
Carnegie Hill. The James Burden
House a at 7 East 91st Street,
built for Vanderbilt heiress
Adele Sloan in 1905, has a
spiral staircase under a stained-
glass skylight that was known
in society as the stairway to
heaven. At 1 East 91st, the
financier Otto Kahns Italian
Renaissance-style residence
was a show place with a drive-
through porch and interior
courtyard. It is now the Convent
of the Sacred Heart School.
268  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A Three-Hour Walk in Brooklyn

A trip across New Yorks most famous crossing leads to Brooklyn
Heights, the citys first suburb. This neighborhood has a 19th-century
feel, mixed with a hint of Middle Eastern cultures. The riverfront Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall
4.5.6
promenade has unrivaled views of Manhattan. For more 550 yards/500m

details on sights in Brooklyn, see pages 24955.

Washingtons
troops fled to Brooklyn
Bridge
Manhattan
from here. In r
e
1814, this was iv
R
the depot for the
J

t
ferry connecting 3

s
a
Brooklyn and 2

E
Manhattan Island.
B R O O K LY N 4
Fire Station on Old Fulton Street This transformed

HTSIA
BRIDGE

B
LUM
Brooklyn Heights PARK

HEIG
CO
Fulton Ferry Landing from a predomin-

EET
About 3,580 ft (1 km) long, antly farming area

STR
the Brooklyn Bridge span to a residential 5

AN
CRA

RM
yields thrilling views of the district. The area N
STR BERRY
EET

FU
OR
lower New York skyline and is full of charac- AN

AY
GE
ST

TS
W
prize photo opportunities. ter and is still a PIN

IGH
ESS
EAP
PLE

HE
ST
Take a taxi or, if you have time, very popular

PR
4 Eagle Warehouse

EX
walk across to Brooklyn. place to live. 7

EET
8
J

IA
On the far side, follow the To the right is
S

STR
EEN

MB
J

EET
Tillary Street sign to the right, the River Caf 3. This
LU

STR
W
QU

CO

LO
turn right at the bottom of restaurants fine cuisine
W IL

KS
N

PIE

H IC
the stairs, then take the first and spectacular views of the RR
K LY

EP
ON
T
path through the park and Manhattan skyline make it one MO STR
OO

NT EE
AG T
walk down Cadman Plaza of New Yorks most exceptional Cranberry 9 UE
BR

STR
RE EE
MS T
West 1 under the Brooklyn- dining spots. Double back past Street EN
STR
EE
Queens Expressway; here the former Eagle Warehouse when he T
T
EE

Cadman becomes Old Fulton 4 of 1893. was editor

STR

Street. You can see the bridge of the JORA

LEM
on the right as you head to Brooklyn Heights Brooklyn ON
Y

the river at Water Street and the From the landing, turn right to Eagle.
NR

ET
HE

RE

Fulton Ferry landing 2. During steep Everitt Street up Columbia He set the
ST

the Revolutionary War, George Heights, on to Middagh Street, type for his Leaves S TA
TE
ON

STR
EE
and along the streets of of Grass at a print T
INT

AT
LA
Brooklyn Heights. 24 shop near the NT
CL

IC
AV
Middagh 5 is one of corner of E e
the oldest, built in 1824. Cranberry and
Next turn right on Fulton. The
Willow and left on town houses now on the
Cranberry; here the site are called Whitman Close.
town houses range Turn right along Hicks. The
from wooden clapboards Hicks family, local farmers,
to brick Federal-style to inspired the name hick for a
brownstones. Except for yokel. Turn left on Orange Street
cars and a few modern to the Plymouth
buildings, you could be Church 6,
in the 19th century. home of
Many famous people Henry Ward
have lived here. Truman Beecher, an
Capote wrote Breakfast at antislavery
Tiffanys and In Cold Blood preacher. His
in the basement of 70 sister, Harriet
Willow, and Arthur Miller Beecher
once owned 155 Willow. Stowe, Truman Capote with
3 Entrance to the River Caf Walt Whitman lived on wrote Uncle feathered friend
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  269

Toms Cabin. Meander along The Promenade

Henry and Pineapple streets. At Montague, turn onto the
At Clark Street are marquees riverfront Promenade 8. A tablet
of once-luxurious hotels, at the entrance marks the
such as the Towers. Follow site of Four Chimneys,
Clark Street to 142 the house where
Columbia Heights, George Washington
where Norman Mailer lived during the The old Montague Street trolley, which
Manhattan lived 7. Washington Battle of Long led to the river and the ferry
Bridge
Roebling, architect of Island. Walk a little
the Brooklyn Bridge, farther for a stunning Montague and
lived at 110. view of Lower Clinton Streets
Manhattan that Once back on Montague, walk to
EMPIRE-
FULTON will make you the heart of Brooklyn Heights,
FERRY PARK
catch your with its cafs and boutiques. The
breath in awe. baseball team, the Brooklyn
W AT E R STREET Savor this Dodgers, who relocated to Los
PL scene, then Angeles in 1958, got their name
CA

FRONT STREET
A
DM A W

Z
6 Statue of preacher turn inland from dodging the trolley cars
AN

Henry Ward Beecher again, on that once ran down the street.
Montague. Walk to the intersection of
MID 1 Here, make a quick detour right Montague and Clinton to see the
STRDAGH to 1 Montague Terrace 9 where stained glass of the 1834 Church
EET

the English poet W. H. Auden of St. Ann and the Holy Trinity 0.
T
Y S

High Street lived. Thomas Wolfe finished Of Walk a block left on Clinton to
NR

6 A.C
Time and the River while he was Pierrepont Street for the Brooklyn
HE

EAST

living at 5 Montague. Historical Society q. A block

PLAZA

farther, at Court Street, is the

STREET

Clark Street
2.3 Tips for Walkers 1849 Borough Hall w, and the
CADMAN

CLA
RK
ST subway back to Manhattan.
Starting point: Brooklyn Bridge.
Length: 3 miles (5.5 km).
TILLARY STREET Getting there: Take subway train
STR TON

4, 5, or 6 on the Lexington Ave

EET

ADAMS
N

q
CLI

Court St line to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall

R
(nearest stop to the bridge). The
STREET

0
M15 Second Ave bus also stops at
J w City Hall. Returning to Manhattan,
J AY

Borough Hall take train 2, 3, 4, 5, M, N, or R from

2.3.4.5
STRE Borough Hall; or 2, 3, 4, 5, M, N, R,
ET Jay Street
Metro Tech or Q from Atlantic Ave.
A.C.F.R Stopping-off points: Teresas,
LIV FU
Brooklyns Dodgers, who got their name
ING
STO LT
ON 80 Montague St, has Polish from dodging trolley cars
NE
T

ST
ST dishes at reasonable prices. Try
E
TRE

RE
ET Henrys End, 44 Henry St, for fine Atlantic Avenue
CE
T S

PLA

ET

dining in Brooklyn Heights. For Another option is to stay on

UR

RE
UM

LI
light meals visit acclaimed deli
CO

ST

VI
NG Clinton Street and walk the
R

ST
BOE

Mile End, 97A Hoyt St, or Iris Caf,

H

ON
five short blocks to Atlantic
IT

E
ST
ST
SM

ST RE
ET 20 Columbia Place.
AT
Avenue. A left turn here leads to
YT

E S
HO

T RE Hoyt-
ET
Schermerhorn a whole string of Middle Eastern
ET
RE

AT Streets
emporia, such as Sahadi Imports
ST

PA LA A.C.G
ND

CI NT e at 187 Atlantic Avenue,

ET

FI
BO

C
E

ST IC
TR

RE ST
AT
which stocks a huge selection
SS

ET E
ST
VIN

AV RE
ET
of foods. The Damascus Bakery
NE

EN
UE
PA
at 195 makes the most delicious
C IFIC
ST
RE
filo pastries. Various other shops
ET
Atlantic Ave here sell Arabic books, tapes,
J 2.3.4.5 DVDs, and CDs.
At Flatbush Avenue, look
r
VE

left to the Brooklyn Academy

DA
3R

Key of Music r and the grand front

of the Williamsburg Savings
Walk route
Bank. Watch for signs to the
Good viewing point 0 meters 500 subway for your journey back
Subway station 0 yards 500 to Manhattan.
270  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Waterfront Walk

From the breezy Battery Park City Esplanade with its sweeping
river views and upscale condos to the magnificent schooners
moored at South Street Seaport, this waterfront route
introduces you to New Yorks formidable maritime legacy. The
concrete jungle may lie just a few blocks inland, yet it seems
worlds away, as the bleating horns and hiss of the crosstown
buses are blessedly muffled. Stroll the green tip of Battery Park
for a startling reminder that Manhattan is, in fact, an island.
For more details on sights in Lower Manhattan, see pp6681.

greenbelt. Climb to the Wagner

Park lookout point 4 for View of the Statue of Liberty from the
vistas of the Hudson River. waterfront promenade
Here, information panels
chronicle New York Citys
seafaring history, when
grand schooners and
coastal packets plied BATTERY
ALB
these waters. PARK ANY
STR
EE

UE
CITY T
EN

ST)
AV

Battery Place 1 TO
REC
D

ST
EN

On Battery Place,

EET
PLA
H

CE

(WE
UT

EET
visit the Museum

STR
SO

STR
ES
5 The many photographs at the Museum of Jewish Heritage T L IBERTY

E
TH
9A

AC
AM PL A ZA
ES Rector St
of Jewish Heritage 5 (see p79) and its

PL
ST
RE 1.R
AY

N
ET
outdoor Garden GTO

2
H
HW

TH

WIC
IR
S H IN

Battery Park City of Stones, a calm, D

J

PL

ITY
EEN
HIG

AC
WA

Begin your walk on the elegant space of E

IN
GR

SE
TR

Esplanade 1 near Rector Place dwarf oak saplings CO

ND
DE

PL
Park, west of the Rector Street growing out of AC
AY
TSI

EET
E W
subway stop. Across the Hudson boulders. Since
STR
FI
WES

RS
D

T
River looms the New Jersey Manhattan is the
A

P
3 5 6 LACE
W
O

NE

skyline. Stroll toward the South undisputed king

BR

4
Cove 2, where youll catch of tall buildings, ROBERT F. Bowling
BEA VER

sight, as did more than 100 pay homage at the WAGNER JR

PARK
Green BOWLING
GREEN
J B AT T E R 4.5
million immigrants on their sleek Skyscraper Y PLACE
WHI

Museum 6, a 7
S TA

arrival, of Lady Liberty herself.

TEHA

Explore Robert F. Wagner, Jr. marvel in stainless

TE

8
Park 3, named after a former steel. Admire skyscraper
LL S

9 PEAR
L
STREET

New York City mayor. The leafy history and contemporary

TREE

B AT T E R Y
acres of grassy slopes, linden designs from around the
PARK
T

trees, and inviting pavilions world, as well as the original

Whitehall St
are an important link in Lower model, created in 1971, of the N.R
Manhattans waterfront former World Trade Center. PETER MINUIT
PLAZA
SOUTH FERRY
PLAZA
South Ferry
1

9 Castle Clinton, an early 19th century

6 Shiny surfaces and sharp angles at the Skyscraper Museum fort built to defend the harbor
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  271

Battery Park
On your way to nearby Battery
Park, check out Pier A 7,
which is all that remains of the
1886 grand marine firehouse.
Important visitors who arrived
by sea were once greeted with
festive jets of water pumped
into the sky by the fireboats.
The clock on the pier tower
used to keep time to the
maritime system eight bells,
and alls well. Continue along
the waterfront, looking out for e Enjoying a well-earned rest at a caf, South Street Seaport
the American Merchant
Mariners Memorial 8, a built during the War of 1812. It up the famed Wall Street w
haunting sculpture of soldiers later became an opera house, (see pp689) as you cross it, for
pulling a desperate comrade theater, and aquarium, but is a view of the spires of Trinity
out of the waters, based on now a museum. Stroll through Church (see p70). Turn right at
photographs of a World War II the park, where you can relax Maiden Lane, then left onto the
attack on an American ship. on benches in the shade of quaint and cobblestoned Front
Head past Castle Clinton trees. Continue on to State Street, which feeds into South
monument 9, a fort Street, turn right on Whitehall, Street Seaport e (see pp847),
and then left onto South Street, marked by the wooden masts
passing the graceful Beaux Arts and sails of the tall ships in the
M

ZUCCOTTI
A

ST
Battery Maritime Building 0. harbor. Explore New Yorks
ID

PARK
LI
EN

BE
ST

JO
RT
seafaring history at the South
LA

Y H
N
ET
N

ST
AU

Street Seaport Museum, and

RE

RE
ST
SS

ET
ST

RE
NA

Wall St
ET then wander the shop-lined
BE

4.5 LEGION
Fulton Street to Water Street.
EK

SQUARE
r
M
M

AN

Broad St ST Take a peek into Bowne & Co

A

ST

PI R
LI

J.Z N E
AT
JO

E
IL

W
Stationers at 211 r, a charming
FU
HN
W

W T
e
ST

EE
LT

A
ST

R
LL old-fashioned print shop with
FL

ST
N
RE

ST
ET
ET

ET
M

RE
RE
L

CH

ST

EX
A
R

CH Wall St ET
ST 19th-century antique hand
RE
ID
A

ER

AN
PE

EN

ET

GE 2.3 Pier 17
presses. Amble toward Pier
ST

PL
AC
EET

E ST T TH y
RE E
E U CT 16 for a further glimpse of
STR

ET R SO
D
U t
ST the past at the Maritime Crafts
LA

PI
N IA
J
N

w E
E

S T RE ET T V
R
E
E
T
ST
RE T Center t, where painters and
ST EE ET EE Pier 16
BROAD

HANOVER
SQUARE A R
L
E
R ST
R
TR carvers work at figureheads.
T T S
P
E
W
A
O
N
TH Continue on to Pier 17 y,
G

FR
O

U
VE

SO bustling with shops and cafs.

RN

T
EU

EE
As you walk the wooden pier,
R

R
ST
ST
O

look back for a memorable view

LD

ET
STRE TH
SL

U
SO of Manhattan the masts of
IP

VIETNAM
ancient schooners against the
BROA

VETERANS
PARK
citys towering skyscrapers. The
D

q
pier is undergoing renovation
ST R EE

ST

SOU
TH so access may be limited. Finish
T

up at the inviting Paris Caf in

the 1873 Meyers Hotel (see p85).
South Street Seaport
Follow South Street, with the Tips for Walkers
Brooklyn Bridge in the distance.
Walk through the Vietnam Starting point: The Esplanade
near Rector Place.
Veterans Memorial Plaza q
Length: 2 miles (3.2 km).
Key with its glass memorial etched
Getting there: Take subway train
with the poignant words from 1 or R to Rector Street. Head west
Walk route
soldiers to their loved ones. on Rector Street, cross the bridge
Good viewing point Head north on Water Street, so over West Street to Rector Place,
Subway station named because it marks what and walk to the Esplanade.
was once the waters edge, and Stopping-off points: Gigino, on
past Old Slip; all streets named Wagner Park at 20 Battery Place,
0 meters 300 slip are where boats used to offers savory Italian fare outdoors.
0 yards 300 dock between piers. Look west
272  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Walk in the East Village

Originally the farm or bouwerie of the Stuyvesant family, Underground was among the
this historic area now has a different appeal thanks to its bands who played here.
musical and artistic associations, as well as many of the
Little Ukraine
citys buzzing and affordable ethnic bars and restaurants.
Turn left onto Second Avenue,
It also manages to balance a peaceful residential area with home to one of the largest and
business and creativity, which is reflected in the constantly longest-standing Ukrainian
changing funky record shops, vegan cafs, craft stores, populations in the US, with
and live music clubs. For more details on sights in the East restaurants, bars, and centers
Village, see pp11823. such as the Ukrainian National
Home 8 on the right (140),
and the good-value, 24-hour
Astor Place Ukrainian eaterie Veselka 9
Adjacent to the Astor Place on the corner. Farther up
subway stop is a black steel Third Ave
L
cube called the Alamo 1 a

UE
W AY

EN
VE
meeting point for students and

AV
TH A
skateboarders. Walk towards

AD

D
IR
Third Avenue through the

TH
FOUR
BR
large buildings that comprise
8th St-NYU
Cooper Union 2 (see p122). This N.R EA
ST
EA
scholarship college was founded ST
8T
HS Astor Place
10
TH

in 1859 by Peter Cooper, AST

OR P
T 6 EA
ST
RE
ET 0
LA CE ST
9T
an illiterate but successful busi- 3 H
ST
ET

1 2 RE
NUE
nessman and proponent of free ET
RE

4 7
ST

education. Across the street is 5 9

6
AV E

the Continental 3, a live music 8

E

COOPER
i
TT

S QU A RE E A
RTH

venue that has hosted groups S

YE

T
7T
H
FA

EA
such as Iggy Pop and Guns N Locals enjoying celebrations on d ST ST
FOU

RE
LA

6T ET
H
Roses. In the East Village, 8th Ukrainian Day ST
RE
ET o
EA
Street becomes St. Marks Place ST E
AV
5T
GR H
4, a former jazz, then hippie, happenings, and the ST
EA RE
ND

T ET
JO
then punk hangout. With so US flag was burned as NE EA
s p
CO

S ST
ST 4T
SE

H
many sidewalk cafs and street an anti-war protest in EA
ST
RE
ST ET
vendors, this is one of the 1967. At 1925 St. BO
ND 3R
D a
ST ST
busiest pedestrian areas of Marks Place 7, there RE
ET

Manhattan. St. Marks Ale House was a Jewish hangout, f

T
TH S

5 on the right, formerly The then the Italian mafia

ERY

UE
ABE

Five Spot, was where musicians ruled, until Andy EA

EN

EA ST
E L IZ

ST
BOW

1S 2N
AV

and poets got together in the Warhol turned the EA

ST
T
ST
D
ST
RE
ET
1960s. A few steps down is Trash space into the HO
US
and Vaudeville 6, a punk/goth infamous nightclub TO
N
T
RS

clothing store that was once Electric Circus in the

FI

Second Ave STR

the Bridge Theater. The venue 1960s. The Velvet F EE
T
was repeatedly shut down
due to controversial acts, then
reopened. Yoko Ono held

Tips for Walkers

Starting point: The Alamo.
Length: 1.75 miles (2.8 km).
Getting there: Take the subway
train 6 to Astor Place. Or take
M101, M102, or M103 buses.
Stopping-off Points: Many
good-value places on St. Marks
Place, but try Jules Bistro (French)
between 1st and 2nd avenues,
and Caracas Arepa Bar (cheap
Venezuelan) at 93 East 7th St.

6 Trash and Vaudeville store, once a venue known for controversial acts
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  273

kinds. It is also where a sacred

elm tree in the middle of the
park r commemorates the first
Hare Krishna ceremony on
American soil. Jazz great Charlie
Parker lived across the street
from the park from 1950 to 1955
t. Walk to the southwestern
corner on 7th Street where 7A
y serves breakfast 24 hours a
day. Down the block, Turntable
Lab u sells DJ equipment and
vinyl. If thirsty, continue west
toward Second Avenue to
McSorleys Old Ale House i,
q The style and elegance of an earlier century at Venieros one of the oldest bars in the
city. Then get back onto Second
Second Avenue, at East 10th Avenue and turn right to see
Street, sits the St. Marks-in-the- where the old Fillmore East
UE
EN

Bowery Church 0 (see p123). Auditorium o used to be (105).

AV

EA
ST
Erected in 1795, this church This classic rock scene featured
ND

First Avenue
L
14
TH was Dutch governor Peter such legends as The Doors, Jimi
CO

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UE
SE

EA
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EN

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13 and he is buried here. Floyd. The Who even premiered
AV

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More recently, the Black their rock opera Tommy here.
T

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Panthers and Young Look left at 6th Street Indian
RS

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Restaurant Row p where
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q ET
EN

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Allen Ginsberg and other Bengali curry houses compete
AV

11
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writers contributed to The for business. Go down Second
10
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Poetry Project that exists Avenue to number 80 a; this
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to this day. A right on was the home of Joe The Boss
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11th Street leads Masseria, head of the Italian
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KS
PL
AC e stylish Italian onto 4th Street, where KGB bar
A

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ST TOMPKINS bakery that still has s, on the right, is a literary
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7T
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SQUARE
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u
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r details, such as hand- along 4th Street to Lafayette
H
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y stamped metal ceilings. Street, and stop off at Other
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Make a right and then a Music d to check out the citys
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left onto 10th Street, past hottest rock sounds. A right

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EA the three-story Russian and down Great Jones Street and

AV

ST
4T
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ST Turkish Bath House w, to the a final left on Bowery lead to
EA
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northern edge of Tompkins the former site (315) of CBGB
3R
D Square Park e (see p123). & OMFUG f, a former
ST
touchstone venue (now a
Tompkins Square Park rock n roll-themed clothing
Built in 1834, this square has boutique) that gave many
seen political activism of all rock legends their big break.

r Elm tree in Tompkins Square Park,

a Hare Krishna memorial

Key
Walk route

0 meters 200

0 yards 200 p Indian Restaurant Row, lined with curry houses

For keys to symbols see back flap

274  NEW YORK CITY AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Walk in Harlem

Few neighborhoods in New York are as rich in cultural history
as Harlem, a haven for African-American heritage. This walk
starts in Strivers Row, one of the few areas that provided
affordable housing during the 1920s and 1930s when the area
was bursting with creative and intellectual expression. It takes
you past renowned gospel churches, jazz and blues clubs, and
ends at the Apollo Theater, Harlems famous showcase for new
artists. For more details on sights in Harlem, see pp22233.

Strivers Row renowned

The tree-lined for its r Apollo Theater, famous for televised
area on 138th magnificent shows and legendary acts
Street between Sunday gospel
Seventh and Eighth service. Founded Association of Colored People
avenues is the St. in 1921 and named (NAACP) and Tuskegee Institute.
Nicholas Historic for the East African After her death in 1919, her
District, commonly Americans of its first daughter ALeila turned the
known as Strivers congregation, this salon into an intellectual center
Row 1. In the 1920s church has hosted for artists, scholars, and activists.
and 1930s wealthy such notable It was named The Dark
and influential black pastors as Adam Tower after Harlem writer
professionals aiming for Clayton Powell, Jr. Countee Cullens protest
better lives moved into A stones throw poem. Around the corner
homes designed by away on West on Lenox Avenue is the
such great architects as 137th Street is Schomburg Center for

RK
James Brown Lord and the Mother Zion Research into Black

PA
McKim, Mead & White. church 4, New Culture 6 (see

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Signs on some of the 1 An ornate doorway Yorks first black p231), a national
RR

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gates still read Private in Strivers Row church and one of research library

AV
road walk your horses. Americas oldest. named for
S

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A short detour left on Seventh While part of the Underground the Puerto
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Avenue (Adam Clayton Powell, Railroad (an escape route for

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Jr. Boulevard) and right on slaves), it acquired the

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139th Street leads to West nickname Freedom Church.

SS
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139th Street 2, where in 1932 Continue to the Countee

T

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16-year-old Billie Holiday moved Cullen Regional Library, where

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into No. 108 shortly before Madam C.J. Walker founded the
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landing her first singing job at Walker School of Hair 5. With WE

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a club in nearby Jungle Alley. her successful cosmetics line H
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and hair-smoothing system,
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125th Street 6T
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Abyssinian Baptist Church Walker was one of the first A.B.C.D ST
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Turn right at Lenox Avenue and self-made female millionaires ES
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right back onto 138th Street in the country. An active W
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toward the striking Abyssinian philanthropist, she donated 4T
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Baptist Church 3 (see p231), to many African-American Rican- T
12
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3R
which is internationally charities such as the National born black D
ST
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ET
scholar who
donated his personal
collection to the library and
served as its curator for six
years. Down West 136th Street
at No. 267 is Niggerati Manor
7, an artists rooming house,
so named by Zora Neale
Hurston, who lived here while
collaborating with Wallace
Thurman, Aaron Douglas,
and Bruce Nugent on Fire!!, a
magazine devoted to young
black artists. Get back on Adam
0 The famous Sylvias restaurant, providing authentic soul food Clayton Powell, Jr. Boulevard
 SE VEN GUIDED WALKS  275

and follow it down to Jungle

Alley 8, the former highlight
of Harlem nightlife, which once
contained numerous bars,
clubs, cabarets, and speakeasies.
A detour across 131st Street will
bring you to Marcus Garveys
house 9 (235), a major leader
and fierce proponent of black
unity, economic independence,
and pride. Return to Adam
Clayton Powell, Jr. Boulevard
and make a left on 127th
6 Art displays at the Schomberg Center for Research into Black Culture
UE

and John Coltrane have all

EN

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performed. Lenox Lounge is

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also home to the Zebra Room,
BE
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performances by artists of
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legends are made.
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at the Apollo
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has been televised nationwide
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the third-most-popular tourist
q Street until you destination in Manhattan.
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125th Street
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2.3 reach Sylvias Restaurant

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w 0 (see p232), the self-

Tips for Walkers
W
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proclaimed Queen of Soul
T
12
4T
H AFR IC AN Food. Family-owned since Starting point: Strivers Row.
WE ST SQUAR E
ST
12 RE
ET 1962, Sylvias serves authentic Length: 1.75 miles (2.8 km)
3R
D
ST
Southern favorites, such as fried Getting there: Take subway train
MARCUS 2 or 3 to 135th St and Lenox Ave,
GARVEY
chicken, catfish, and BBQ ribs.
PARK Alternatively, stay on Lenox then walk north to 138th St and
west to Seventh Ave. Or take M2,
Avenue until 125th Street,
M7, or M10 bus to 135th St and
where youll find Red Rooster
walk to Seventh Ave.
Harlem q. Stop off here for a
Stopping-off Points: Sylvias on
Key
glimpse, as well as a taste, of 127th and Lenox is Harlems most
modern, trendy Harlem before famous soul food restaurant. It is
Walk route heading to Lenox Lounge w, the perfect place to refuel.
Subway station where Billie Holiday, Miles Davis,
 TRAVELERS
NEEDS

Where to Stay 278287

Where to Eat and Drink 288309
Shopping 310331
Entertainment in
New York City 332355
Childrens New York City 356357
278  TRAVELERS NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
With over 90,000 hotel rooms available, New
York offers something for everyone. The citys
top hotels are among the most expensive in
the US, but there are also many budget and
mid-priced hotels. While many of these are
basic rather than charming, they offer good
value. Other budget options are furnished
apartments and studios, and bed and
Rooftop terrace at the Peninsula New York (see p287)
Where to Look
The East Side, roughly between
59th and 77th streets, is the
traditional location for luxury
hotels. The renovation of some
landmark Midtown properties
by famous hotel chains,
however, such as the St. Regis
by Starwood, and the former
Gotham Hotel, which is now
the Peninsula New York, has
considerably increased the
competition in this price range.
Business travelers tend to
favor Midtown, especially the
moderately priced hotels lining
Lexington Avenue near Grand
Central Terminal.
Those seeking relative quiet
with access to Midtown should
look in the Murray Hill area,
while theater-lovers should note
the revival of the Times Square
area, where there are many
hotels within walking distance
of the bustling Theater District.
There are a number of good,
inexpensive hotels around Herald
Square, which is convenient for
shopping. Trendy boutique
hotels have flourished in SoHo
and the Meatpacking District,
where there are also plenty of
Opulent interior of the New York Palace Hotel
breakfasts, as well as youth hostels and
YMCAs. The hotels listed in this guide have
been selected for their value, location, and
amenities. Entries are separated by theme and
price, helping you choose accommodations
that best suit your needs. Hotels highlighted
as DK Choice offer something special, such
as beautiful interiors or remarkable service.
available in every price
category. Renting out a private
home is also becoming
increasingly popular and can
often work out much cheaper
than staying in a hotel.
Hidden Extras
When calculating the cost of
hotels in New York, it is not
enough simply to take into
consideration the quoted room
price. Hotel rooms are subject to
a blanket 14.75 percent hotel tax,
plus $2 per night per room fee.
Several hotels now include
continental breakfast in the room
good bars, restaurants, and price. This represents a big saving,
upscale shops (see pp31213) since standard hotel continental
as well as trendy nightclubs. breakfast prices, before tax and
New York City & Co. (the tip, start at about $10 and soar
Convention & Visitors Bureau) to $25 in some of the luxury
publishes a free, annually hotels. To save money, head for
updated leaflet called The New the nearest deli or coffee shop
York Hotel Guide, listing rates and leave the hotel to business-
and toll-free numbers. This people having power breakfasts.
leaflet is available in the arrivals Hotel telephone charges are
hall at JFK Airport. Staff will offer always high; it is much less
advice about hotels but do not expensive to use a cell phone,
make reservations. or Wi-Fi, if available.
Tips are expected. Staff who
take your luggage to the room
Finding Bargains are usually tipped a minimum
Some hotels offer
seasonal promotion-
al rates and other
off-peak reductions.
For example, busi-
ness travelers vacate
hotels at the end of
the working week,
so you can take
advantage of bargain
weekend deals, even
in luxury hotels, as
prices drop (see
Special Rates p279).
There are a growing
number of good
value all-suite hotels Antique furnishings, Inn at Irving Place (see p282)

The Tribeca Grand lobby (see p282)
of $1 per bag more in a luxury
hotel. The concierge need not
be tipped for normal services
such as arranging transportation
or making dinner reservations,
but should be rewarded for
exceptional services. When
you order from room service,
a service charge will usually
be included in the bill; if not, a
1520 percent tip is customary.
Solo travelers will find that
single room rates are usually at
least 80 percent of the double
rate and are sometimes the
same as for two people.
Facilities
Television, radio, and at least
one telephone are usually
provided in every room, even in
modest lodgings, and most hotel
bedrooms have private bath-
rooms. In budget and mid-priced
hotels, a shower, rather than a
tub, is the norm. Many hotels
offer Internet access (often with
free Wi-Fi), a business center, and
a health club or exercise room.
Luxury facilities include minibars
in the room, dual phones, private
phone message systems, and
electronic checkout.
Although youd expect hotel
rooms in New York City to be
noisy, most windows are double-
or even triple-glazed to keep out
the noise. Air-conditioning is a
standard feature, so there is no
need to open the windows in
hot weather. Even so, some
rooms are obviously quieter than
others, especially if they are
at the back of the hotel or
overlooking a courtyard check
when reserving. Light sleepers
may also want to request a room
away from the elevator.
Most of the hotels listed here
are within a few minutes walk
of shops and restaurants. Few
hotels have their own parking,
but valets may park your car in
nearby garages. A reduced (but
still expensive) daily parking fee
is normally offered. If there is no
concierge at the hotel, front
desk staff will always help to
answer any queries.
How to Reserve
It is advisable to make hotel
reservations several months in
advance; otherwise, you may
well find that the best rooms
and rates have been taken. The
busiest periods are at Easter, the
New York Marathon week in late
October or early November,
Thanksgiving, and Christmas.
The easiest way to book a
hotel room directly is through
the hotels website. You may be
required to pay a deposit or
provide a credit card number to
secure the booking. Print out a
copy of the booking confirma-
tion to give to the hotel when
you check in. Reservations
through third party websites
such as www.expedia.com
and www.hotels.com can offer
the best value for money.
Most hotels have a toll-free
telephone number for use in the
United States, but these numbers
do not work from Europe and the
UK. If the hotel is part of an
Understated elegance at the stylish Kitano (see p287)
W H E R E TO S TAY  279
international chain, an affiliated
hotel in your country should be
able to reserve a room for you.
Special Rates
Hotels are busiest during the
week, when business travelers
are in the city, so most of them
offer budget weekend packages.
Its often possible to move from
a standard to a luxury room for
the weekend at the same rate.
A lower corporate rate is usually
available to employees of large
companies. Quite often
reservation clerks will grant
corporate discounts on request
without asking for a company
affiliation. It is also worth
checking a hotel website for
special deals and promotions.
Some reservation agencies
offer discount rates. A good
travel agent should be able to
get the best rates, but compare
prices by contacting directly
a discount reservation service
such as Quikbook (see p281),
which offers discounts of 2050
percent, depending on the time
of year. You reserve by credit
card and receive a voucher,
which you present to the hotel.
Sites such as www.kayak.com
offer private sales of
discounted hotel rooms.
Package tours can also
provide savings. Their rates
may not oblige you to stay with
a tour group, only to use their
air and hotel arrangements.
They may also include airport
transfers, an additional saving.
Airlines frequently have special
deals, particularly during slow
280  TRAVELERS NEEDS
travel seasons. A know-
ledgeable travel agent should
be able to tell you the current
best deals, but searching online
might be an easier and quicker
way to find limited offers that
can be booked directly. At off-
peak times you may net even
bigger savings than with the
package plans.
Disabled Travelers
By law, new hotels must provide
facilities for disabled visitors.
Many older buildings have also
been renovated so as to comply
with this regulation.
To find out which hotels offer
the best facilities, check their
websites. These are provided for
all the hotels listed on pp2827.
When booking, let the hotel
know of any specific needs.
Guide dogs are allowed in most
hotels, but it is also advisable to
check in advance.
The Mayors Office for People
with Disabilities produces the
Official Accessibility Guide,
with useful information about
hotels for disabled travelers.
Traveling with Children
American hotels are generally
very welcoming toward children.
Cots or cribs as well as lists of
reliable babysitters are usually
available, and most hotel restau-
rants will cater to young guests.
Traveling with children need
not be expensive. Many hotels
do not charge for children if they
stay in their parents room, or
make only a small charge for an
extra bed. There is usually a limit
of one or two children per room
in these cases, and most hotels
stipulate that the children must
be under a certain age, most
often 12. Parents of older
children are expected to pay the
full price, although the age limit
is occasionally extended to 18.
Ask about family rates when you
make your reservation.
Bed-and-Breakfast
A good number of bed-and-
breakfast accommodations in
private apartments is available
in New York.
Lobby of the St. Regis Hotel (see p287)
Bed-and-breakfast lodgings can
be found through many free
booking services. Some booking
agencies have a two-or-more-
night minimum stay.
Rates for a double room
typically start at $100 a night,
depending on whether you
have a private bathroom.
planning on an extended stay
Private Homes
Increasingly, one of the most
affordable ways to stay in New
York is by renting out a private
apartment or room. A number
of services facilitate this, includ-
ing the very popular and well
run Airbnb (www.airbnb.com),
which offers accommodation in
a wide range of private homes
and apartments in New York,
from townhouses on the Upper
East Side to student flats in the
East Village and Brooklyn.
Another source for budget
lodging is Couchsurfing (www.
couchsurfing.org), which has
many member-hosts in New
York. Rates for private apart-
ments vary from about $100
to $300. Be aware that if the
address is remote or inconven-
iently far from bus routes or
subway stations, your costs will
rise, as you will need frequent
cabs. Ask about location and
amenities when you reserve.
Youth and Budget
Accommodations
New Yorks youth hostel and
YMCA dormitories offer lodgings
for those on a tight budget. For
the longer-term visitor, the 92nd
Street Y, a nonsectarian hostel in
the Upper East Side, has good-
value rooms, with prices starting
from around $35 to $50 a night.
There are no campsites in
Manhattan, and, sadly, youth
hostels are not as prevalent in
New York as they are in large
European cities.
For budget-minded travelers
looking for the bare essentials,
inexpensive rooms are available
in several areas of New York,
particularly in Chelsea, the
Garment District, and the Upper
West Side, and to a lesser extent
in such prime neighborhoods
as Upper Midtown. Although
some of these budget-price
rooms are comfortable, with
private baths or showers, others
may be rather small, perhaps
with no air-conditioning, and you
may have to share a bathroom.
Suites
If youd like extra space or are
in NYC opt for an apartment
or all-suite hotel, which feature
sizeable kitchenettes. Suites
offer extra space plus cooking
facilities and a refrigerator. Most
suites can accommodate up to
four people, which makes them
popular with families.
Beyond Manhattan
As Manhattan becomes more
expensive, accommodation
options are emerging in the
outer boroughs for savvy
travelers. Areas such as
Williamsburg and Dumbo in
Brooklyn have become destina-
tions in their own right, thanks to
a rising number of bars, good
restaurants, and trendy stores.
For a little over $300, you can
book a king room at the Best
Western Gregory Hotel in
Brooklyn (see p285), or a room
with flat-screen TV and wireless
internet access at the four-star
boutique hotel Le Bleu, in the
up-and-coming area of
Gowanus, close to Park Slope
(www.hotellebleu.com).
As always, cheaper deals
can often be negotiated or
found on hotel websites.
 W H E R E TO S TAY  281

Recommended Hotels Flatiron District. Midtown covers

Our hotels are divided up into
five categories: B&Bs, Boutique,
Budget, Business, and Luxury.
Boutique hotels are generally
smaller, with high design
elements. Luxury hotels encom-
pass the finest of New Yorks
upscale hotels, with many luxury
amenities, from spas to celebrity-
chef restaurants. New York Citys
B&Bs offer a friendly, personable
experience, with cozy rooms
and a hearty breakfast. Business
hotels in New York feature sleek
and contemporary rooms, and
business amenities, from Wi-Fi
and business centers to meeting
rooms with audio and visual
technology. Many business
hotels offer good-value deals
on the weekend.
Our hotels are divided into five
geographical areas: Downtown
York Citys most upscale hotels,
Heights and Harlem, features a
Entrance to the Peninsula Hotel (see p287)
is a richly varied area that
encom-passes Lower Manhattan,
Seaport and the Civic Center, the
Lower East Side, Chinatown,
Little Italy, Soho and TriBeCa,
Greenwich Village, the East
Village, and Gramercy and the
both Lower and Upper Midtown,
as well as Chelsea and the
Theater District, which is popular
with visitors who are in town to
see Broadway shows. The Upper
East Side features many of New
while the Upper West Side,
which includes Morningside
broad range of hotels. Farther
Afield includes hotels and B&Bs
in Brooklyn and Queens.
Look out for listings labeled
as DK Choice. These hotels
have been highlighted because
they offer a special experience
either for superlative service,
beautiful interiors and rooms,
top-notch amenities and
gadgets, an excellent on-site
restaurant or rooftop bar, or
a combination of these.

DIRECTORY
Where to Look Disabled Youth Hostels Suite Hotels
Travelers and Budget
New York City & Co. Accommodations Affinia Hotels
810 7th Ave. Map 12 E4. Mayors Office for Reservations:
Tel (212) 484-1222. 92nd Street Y Tel (212) 465-3661.
People with
nycgo.com 1395 Lexington Ave, NY, Toll-free: 866-246 2203.
Disabilities NY 10128. Map 17 A2.
100 Gold St, 2nd floor, affinia.com
Airport Tel (212) 415-5650.
Reservations NY, NY 10038. 92y.org Beekman Tower
Tel (212) 788-2830. 3 Mitchell Pl.
Chelsea Hostel
Accommodations nyc.gov/mopd Map 13 C5.
251 W 20th St,
Plus NY, NY 10011. Tel 888-754-8044.
JFK International Airport. Bed-and- Map 8 D5. thebeekmanhotel.
Tel 800-733-7666. Breakfast Tel (212) 647-0010. com
Meegan Services chelseahostel.com
At Home in Brooklyn The Benjamin
JFK International Airport. Hosteling
15 Prospect Park W, 125 E 50th St.
Tel 800-441-1115. International, NY
Brooklyn, NY 11215. Map 13 B4.
891 Amsterdam Ave at
Tel (718) 622-5292. Tel (212) 715-2500.
Discount W 103rd St, NY, NY 10025.
athomeinbrooklyn. thebenjamin.com
Reservation Map 20 E5.
Services com Tel (212) 932-2300. Eastgate Tower
hinewyork.org 222 E 39th St.
Expedia At Home in NY
New Yorks Map 9 B1.
expedia.co.uk Tel (212) 956-3125.
Jazz Hostels eastgate-tower-nyc.
athomeny.com
Hotel Rooms 365 jazzhostels.com hotel-rv.com.com
Tel (212) 840-8686. CountryInn The City Vanderbilt YMCA The Phillips Club
hotelrooms365.com Tel (212) 580-4183. 224 E 47th St, 155 West 66th St.
countryinnthecity.
Hotels.com NY, NY 10017. Map 12 D2.
com Map 13 A5.
Tel 800-246-8357. Tel 887-644-8900.
hotels.com Tel (212) 912-2500.
Private Homes phillipsclub.com
ymcanyc.org
Kayak The Surrey
kayak.co.uk Airbnb YMCA West Side
5 W 63rd St, NY, NY 10023. 20 E 76th St.
airbnb.co.uk
Quikbook Map 12 D2. Map 17 A5.
Tel (212) 779-7666. Couchsurfing Tel (917) 441-8800. Tel (212) 905-1477.
quikbook.com couchsurfing.org ymcanyc.org thesurrey.com
282  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Where to Stay
Bed-and-Breakfast
Downtown
DK Choice
East Village Bed & Coee $ decorated with antiques. Oers
110 Avenue C, 10009
Tel (917) 816-0071 Map 5 B2
bedandcoee.com
Quirky inn with themed rooms,
from soothing Zen and bright
Mexican to earth-toned beach
decor. Each oor has shared
bathrooms and fully equipped
kitchens, while rooms feature
iPod docking stations.
Abingdon Guest House $$
13 Eighth Ave, 10014
Tel (212) 243-5384 Map 3 C1
abingdonguesthouse.com
Unique guesthouse with inviting,
residential-style rooms.
Inn at Irving Place
56 Irving Place, 10003
Tel (212) 533-4600
innatirving.com
Exclusive, impeccable
guesthouse in two magnicent
adjoining brownstones.
Upper West Side
The Harlem Flophouse
242 West 123rd St, 10027
Tel (347) 632-1960 Map 21 A2
harlemophouse.com
Cozy rooms, and shared bath-
rooms with antique brass xtures.
Sugar Hill Harlem Inn
460 West 141st St, 10031
Tel (212) 234-5432 Map 19 A2
sugarhillharleminn.com
Eco-friendly hotel in a lovely
Victorian townhouse.
Chic interiors and classy lounge area at Hotel Girae
Farther Aeld
Bibis Garden Bed & Breakfast $
762 Westminster Rd, Brooklyn, 11230
Tel (718) 434-3119
bibisgarden.net
Victorian house with lovely rooms
continental breakfast spread.
The Soa Inn $ DK Choice
288 Park Place, Brooklyn, 11238
Tel (917) 865-7428
brooklynbedandbreakfast.net
Historic B&B with traditional
rooms and hardwood oors.
Check out the garden with its
private bath.
Boutique
Downtown
Duane Street Hotel
130 Duane St, 10013
Tel (212) 964-4600 Map 1 B1
$$$ duanestreethotel.com
Intimate hotel with sleek, loft-
Map 9 A5 style rooms and smart urban
design; inviting restaurant.
Gershwin Hotel $$
7 East 27th St, 10016
Tel (212) 545-8000 Map 8 F3
gershwinhotel.com
With a stylish and modern decor,
$ this hotel has a wide range of
accommodation options to suit
all budgets.
Gild Hall
15 Gold St, 10038
Tel (212) 232-7700 Map 2 D2
$$ thompsonhotels.com
Elegant, discreet hotel with a
classy wood-paneled library
and a Champagne bar. Its
proximity to Wall Street
attracts corporate travelers.
Price Guide
Prices are based on one nights stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
$ under $200
$$ $200 to $400
$$$ over $400
Hotel Girae $$
365 Park Ave South, 10016
Tel (212) 685-7700 Map 9 A4
hotelgirae.com
This hotel is the epitome of
boutique elegance, with a light-
lled lobby and a baby grand
piano. Impeccable rooms with
velveteen chairs and French
doors. Theres a rooftop garden
bar. Complimentary breakfast.
$$ Hotel on Rivington $$
107 Rivington St, 10002
Tel (212) 475-2600 Map 5 A3
hotelonrivington.com
Fashionable hotel with spacious
rooms, plush decor, and great
oor-to-ceiling views.
The Marcel at Gramercy $$$$$
201 East 24th St, 10010
Tel (212) 696-3800 Map 9 B4
marcelatgramercy.com
Chic rooms with rain showers
in bathrooms. Beds have
luxurious Italian linens.
The Roger New York $$
$$ 131 Madison Ave, 10016
Tel (212) 448-7000 Map 9 A3
therogernewyork.com
Warm, inviting hotel with lots of
amenities. There are terrace
rooms with private balconies.
Smyth Tribeca $$
85 West Broadway, 10007
Tel (212) 587-7000 Map 1 B1
thompsonhotels.com
Modern hotel with classic
touches, sleek and sizeable
rooms, and marble bathrooms.
The Standard $$
25 Cooper Square, 10003
Tel (212) 475-5700 Map 4 F2
standardhotels.com
Eye-catching hotel designed by
Carlos Zapata. Comfy rooms with
all modern amenities. Compli-
mentary continental breakfast.
Wall Street Inn $$
9 South William St, 10004
Tel (212) 747-1500 Map 1 C3
thewallstreetinn.com
Business-friendly hotel with cozy
rooms and comfortable beds.
 W H E R E TO S TAY  283

Washington Square Hotel $$

103 Waverly Place, 10011
Tel (212) 777-9515 Map 4 D2
washingtonsquarehotel.com
A stylish marble lobby gives way
to comfy rooms, some with views
of lush Washington Square Park.

60 Thompson $$$
60 Thompson St, 10012
Tel (877) 431-0400 Map 4 D4
60thompson.com
Very elegant, minimalist rooms
with top-notch gadgets. Theres
a fashionable rooftop bar.

The Bowery Hotel $$$

335 Bowery, 10003
Tel (212) 505-9100 Map 4 F3 Eye-catching art adorns the walls at the Ace Hotel
theboweryhotel.com
Luxurious, fashionable hotel with Tribeca Grand Hotel $$$ Dylan $$
earthy touches such as replaces 2 Sixth Ave, 10013 52 East 41st St, 10017
and wood-paneling. Tel (212) 519-6700 Map 3 E5 Tel (212) 338-0500 Map 9 A1
tribecagrand.com dylanhotel.com
Crosby Street Hotel $$$ A grand atrium lobby leads Set in a Beaux Arts building, with
79 Crosby St, 10012 to well-appointed rooms. handsome walnut furnishings
Tel (212) 226-6400 Map 4 E3 Enjoy top-shelf cocktails at the and a steakhouse restaurant.
rmdalehotels.com Church Bar.
A slice of upscale London in the Eventi Hotel $$
heart of SoHo. Cheerful rooms 851 6th Ave, 10001
and afternoon tea. Midtown Tel (212) 564-4567 Map 8 E3
Ace Hotel $$ eventihotel.com
The James $$$ 20 West 29th St, 10001 Warm and colorful rooms, oor-to-
27 Grand St, 10013 Tel (212) 679-2222 Map 8 F3 ceiling windows, and great service.
Tel (212) 465-2000 Map 4 E4 acehotel.com
jameshotels.com A chic, rock-and-roll hotel that Hotel Americano $$
Elegant rooms with natural linens, oers more than 200 rooms, 518 West 27th St, 10001
and rain showers in bathrooms. most featuring art by local and Tel (212) 216-0000 Map 7 C3
Rooftop bar with glittering international artists. hotel-americano.com
skyline views. Sleek, minimalist rooms. Lively
Algonquin Hotel $$ rooftop bar and pool.
The Mercer Hotel $$$ 59 West 44th St, 10036
147 Mercer St, 10012 Tel (212) 840-6800 Map 12 F5 Hotel Mela $$
Tel (212) 966-6060 Map 4 E3 algonguinhotel.com 120 West 44th St, 10036
mercerhotel.com Home of the famous 1920s Tel (877) 452-6352 Map 12 D5
Intimate hotel with loft-style literary Round Table. Cozy, hotelmela.com
rooms and an excellent New refurbished rooms. Stylish hotel with spacious and
American restaurant. modern rooms in earthy colors.
Andaz 5th Avenue $$
Nolitan $$$ 485 5th Ave, 10017 Ink 48 $$
30 Kenmare St, 10012 Tel (212) 601-1234 Map 8 F1 653 11th Ave, 10036
Tel (212) 925-2555 Map 4 F4 newyork.5thavenue.andaz.hyatt. Tel (212) 757-0088 Map 11 B5
nolitanhotel.com com ink48.com
Charming and pet-friendly hotel. Enjoy a charming experience at Brightly colored rooms with
Many rooms have private this sleek hotel. Hypoallergenic skyline views. Sip cocktails under
balconies and rain showers. rooms with state-of-the-art air the stars in the rooftop bar.
purication system.
SoHo Grand Hotel $$$ Kimberly Hotel $$
301 West Broadway, 10013 The Benjamin $$ 145 East 50th St, 10022
Tel (212) 965-3000 Map 4 E4 125 East 50th St, 10022 Tel (212) 755-0400 Map 13 A5
sohogrand.com Tel (212) 715-2500 Map 13 A4 kimberlyhotel.com
Sophisticated hotel with thebenjamin.com This low-prole hotel is great
tastefully done up rooms. Great Classic hotel with a focus on value for money, with well-
views of downtown Manhattan. comfortable beds, including a appointed and spacious rooms.
plush pillow menu.
Thompson LES $$$ Library Hotel $$
190 Allen St, 10002 Casablanca Hotel $$ 299 Madison Ave, 10017
Tel (212) 460-5300 Map 5 A3 147 West 43rd St, 10036 Tel (212) 983-4500 Map 9 A1
thompsonhotels.com Tel (212) 869-1212 Map 8 E1 libraryhotel.com
Industrial-chic hotel decorated casablancahotel.com A library theme drives the decor
with contemporary art. There is Moroccan-themed hotel with of this charming hotel. There are
a unique Andy Warhol lmstrip complimentary nightly wine- books in all the impeccable
pool on the roof. and-cheese receptions. rooms plus a poetry garden.
For more information on types of hotels see p281
284  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Upper West Side

6 Columbus $$$
6 Columbus Circle, 10019
Tel (212) 204-3000 Map 12 D3
thompsonhotels.com
Colorful 1960s Modernist decor,
original artwork, a rooftop lounge,
and an excellent sushi bar.

Budget
Downtown
Cosmopolitan Hotel $
95 West Broadway, 10007
Tel (212) 566-1900 Map 1 B1
Comfortable outdoor seating with great views at The Standard High Line cosmohotel.com
Simple but well-maintained
The Maritime $$ Hudson River. Impeccable rooms with luxury linens and
363 West 16th St, 10011 rooms, oor-to-ceiling wall-to- fragrant toiletries.
Tel (212) 242-4300 Map 8 D5 wall windows, and exceptional
themaritimehotel.com service standards. Hotel 17 $
Trendy hotel with a nautical theme. 225 East 17th St, 10003
Porthole windows in the rooms 70 Park $$$ Tel (212) 475-2845 Map 9 B5
have views of the Hudson River. 70 Park Ave, 10016 hotel17ny.com
Tel (212) 973-2400 Map 9 A1 Small but clean rooms with tidy
Michelangelo $$ 70parkave.com bathrooms. It was featured in a
152 West 51st St, 10019 Pet-friendly, inviting hotel with Woody Allen movie in the 1990s.
Tel (212) 765-0505 Map 12 F4 elegant rooms and a nightly
michelangelohotel.com hosted wine hour. Oers eco- Hotel 31 $
Step back into the Italian friendly, in-room spa service. 129 East 31st St, 10016
Renaissance at this classic hotel. Tel (212) 685-3060 Map 9 A3
Bryant Park $$$ hotel31.com
The Nomad Hotel $$ 40 West 40th St, 10018 Sister property to Hotel 17, with
1170 Broadway, 10001 Tel (212) 869-0100 Map 8 F1 simple but well-kept rooms and
Tel (212) 796-1500 Map 8 F3 bryantparkhotel.com cable TV.
thenomadhotel.com Modern, minimalist rooms with
Beautifully restored Beaux Arts excellent amenities, plus a huge O Soho Suites $
hotel with a very popular bar underground bar with live DJs. 11 Rivington St, 10002
and lounge. Helpful sta. Tel (212) 979-9808 Map 5 A3
osoho.com
Roger Smith Hotel $$ The Chatwal $$$ Well-maintained budget suites
501 Lexington Ave, 10022 130 West 44th St, 10036 with either private or shared
Tel (212) 755-1400 Map 13 A5 Tel (212) 764-6200 Map 12 E5 kitchen; fully stocked.
rogersmith.com thechatwalny.com
Charming, arty hotel with Art Deco meets contemporary Union Square Inn $
individually decorated rooms. decor in this sophisticated 209 East 14th St, 10003
hotel lled with eye-catching Tel (212) 614-0500 Map 4 F1
St. Giles New York The Court art. Plush rooms and luxurious unionsquareinn.com
& The Tuscany $$ interiors. Enjoy the spa services. Basic but clean apartments and
120130 East 39th St, 10016 rooms, most with kitchenettes.
Tel (212) 686-1600 Map 9 A1 Morgans $$$ Lower rates for extended stays.
stgilesnewyork.com 237 Madison Ave, 10016
Matched set of well-appointed Tel (212) 686-0300 Map 9 A8 Best Western Seaport Inn
hotels with elegant and morganshotel.com Downtown $$
spacious rooms; stylish lounges. Chic hotel with taxi-inspired 33 Peck Slip, 10038
black-and-white checkered Tel (212) 766-6600 Map 2 D2
The Strand $$ pattern throughout. Compli- seaportinn.com
33 West 37th St, 10018 mentary continental breakfast. Splendid views of Brooklyn Bridge
Tel (212) 448-1024 Map 8 F2 from the terrace rooms. Traditional
thestrandnyc.com decor, and a 24-hour tness center.
Fashionable hotel with vintage Upper East Side
Cond Nast prints on the walls Bentley Hotel $$ Blue Moon Hotel $$
and a breezy rooftop bar. 500 East 62nd St, 10065 100 Orchard St, 10002
Tel (212) 644-6000 Map 13 C2 Tel (212) 533-9080 Map 5 A3
The Standard High Line $$ bentleyhotelnyc.com bluemoon-nyc.com
848 Washington St, 10014 Towering hotel with stellar A former tenement transformed
Tel (212) 645-4646 Map 3 B1 views of the East River. Rooms into a lovely hotel. Cozy rooms
standardhotels.com are comfortable and handsome, with modern amenities.
Soaring, ultra-trendy hotel with designer amenities and Complimentary continental
with fantastic views of the marble bathrooms. breakfast included.
Key to Prices see p282

The Gem $$
135 East Houston St, 10002
Tel (212) 358-8844 Map 5 A3
thegemhotel.com
Snug, clean, and well-maintained
rooms with sturdy furnishings
and atscreen TVs.
Midtown
Americana Inn $ Tel (877) 358-0617
69 West 38th St, 10018
Tel (212) 840-6700 Map 8 F1
theamericanainn.com
Basic rooms with shared
bathrooms. Each oor has a
communal kitchenette.
Chelsea International Hostel $
251 West 20th St, 10011
Tel (212) 647-0010 Map 8 D5
chelseahostel.com
One of the citys best hostels a
variety of accommodations from
dorms to private rooms.
Chelsea Lodge $ furnishings, comfortable beds,
318 West 20th St, 10011
Tel (212) 243-4499 Map 8 D5
chelsealodge.com
This restored townhouse has
small rooms with wood oors
and clean, shared bathrooms.
Chelsea Star Hotel $ game room, and picnic tables.
300 West 30th St, 10011
Tel (212) 244-7827 Map 8 D3
starhotelny.com
A life-size statue of Betty Boop
greets guests at this colorful
hotel. Dorms and private rooms.
Colonial House Inn $ breakfast; lovely rooftop bar.
318 West 22nd St, 10011
Tel (212) 243-9669 Map 8 D4
colonialhouseinn.com
Gay-friendly townhouse inn with
modern rooms, some with
private bathrooms and replaces.
Comfort Inn Chelsea $ Brazilian restaurant.
18 West 25th St, 10010
Tel (212) 645-3990 Map 8 F4
comfortinn.com
Historic 1901 brick building with
comfy rooms. Complimentary
breakfast, and tness room.
Herald Square Hotel $ balconies. Lovely breezy deck with
19 West 31st St, 10001
Tel (212) 279-4017 Map 8 F3
heraldsquarehotel.com
Family-run, inviting Beaux Arts
hotel with attractive rooms and
wood oors.
Hotel NYMA $ 8315 Fourth Ave, Brooklyn, 11201
6 West 32nd St, 10001
Tel (212) 643-7100 Map 8 E3
applecorehotels.com
Tasteful rooms in shades of
soothing brown and beige, with
atscreen TVs and coeemakers.
W H E R E TO S TAY  285
Hotel Wolcott $ Fitzpatrick Grand Central $$
4 West 31st St, 10001 Hotel
Tel (212) 268-2900 Map 8 F3 141 East 44th St, 10017
wolcott.com Tel (212) 351-6800 Map 13 A5
Simple, spacious, and clean tzpatrickhotels.com
rooms with cable TV and well- Warm and inviting rooms, some
maintained bathrooms. with canopied beds. Check out
the bustling on-site pub.
Pod 39 $
145 East 39th St, 10016 Yotel $$
Map 9 A1 570 10th Ave, 10036
podhotel.com Tel (646) 449-7700 Map 7 C1
Snug but smartly furnished yotel.com
rooms with atscreen TVs and A massive hotel with snug rooms
bathrooms with rain showers. and jaunty, space-age decor.
Automated check in/ checkout.
DK Choice
Pod 51 $ Upper West Side
230 East 51st St, 10022 Astor on the Park $
Tel (212) 355-0300 Map 13 B4 465 Central Park West, 10025
podhotel.com Tel (212) 866-1880 Map 21 A5
One of New York Citys best Snug, clean rooms with cable TV
budget hotels rooms are and marble bathrooms. Snack
small and pod-like but savvily machines and laundry services
outtted with colorful are available.
and atscreen TVs. The lobby Hostelling International New
features bright murals, York $
communal tables, a friendly 891 Amsterdam Ave, 10025
concierge, and a caf/bar with Tel (212) 932-2300 Map 20 E5
a daily happy hour. Relax on hinewyork.org
the rooftop, surrounded by the A vast building resembling a
skyscrapers of Midtown. campus dorm, with a cafeteria,
La Quinta Manhattan $ Jazz on the Park $
17 West 32nd St, 10001 36 West 106th St, 10025
Tel (212) 736-1600 Map 8 E3 Tel (212) 932-1600 Map 21 A5
applecorehotels.com jazzonthepark.com
Comfortable rooms with coee An arty, lively hostel with simple
machines. Complimentary dorm rooms, complimentary
breakfast, and a coeehouse with
live music.
Belvedere Hotel $$
319 West 48th St, 10036 Milburn $$
Tel (212) 245-7000 Map 12 D5 242 West 76th St, 10023
belvederehotelnyc.com Tel (212) 362-1006 Map 15 C5
Family-friendly, spacious rooms milburnhotel.com
in soothing earthy colors. Lively Comfortable, well-maintained
suites, tted with kitchenettes,
microwaves, and refrigerators.
On the Avenue $$
2178 Broadway, 10024
Tel (212) 362-1100 Map 15 C5
ontheave-nyc.com
Stylish rooms, many with
skyline views. Two great restau-
rants on site to choose from.
Farther Aeld
Best Western Gregory Hotel
Brooklyn $$
Tel (718) 238-3737
bestwestern.com
Comfortable, well-appointed
rooms, complimentary breakfast,
Snug rooms and classy wooden ooring, and an old-fashioned bar with
Chelsea Lodge reasonably priced cocktails.
For more information on types of hotels see p281
286  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Business
Downtown
Holiday Inn Soho $$
138 Lafayette St, 10013
Tel (212) 966-8898 Map 4 F5
hidowntown-nyc.com
Simple but comfortable rooms
with plush beds and ergonomic
desk chairs.
Marriott Downtown $$
85 West St, 10006
Tel (212) 385-4900 Map 1 B3
marriott.com
Business-oriented hotel with
elegantly decorated rooms.
Some with great views of the
Statue of Liberty.
Marriott New York City Financial
Center $$
85 West St, 10006
Tel (212) 385-4900 Map 1 B3
marriott.com
Contemporary rooms and all
modern amenities. Grand decor
and opulent interiors has an
indoor pool, great views, and
excellent service.
Midtown
Ania Dumont $$
150 East 34th St, 10016
Tel (212) 481-7600 Map 9 A2
ania.com
Upscale rooms that resemble
apartments, with full kitchenettes.
Get pampered in the spa or work
out in the tness center.
Four Points by Sheraton $$
160 West 25th St, 10001
Tel (212) 627-1888 Map 8 42
starwoodhotels.com
Plush, well-maintained rooms,
some with balconies. Cozy
restaurant and bar.
Hyatt 48 Lex $$
517 Lexington Ave, 10017
Tel (212) 838-1234 Map 13 A5
48lex.hyatt.com
Great for corporate travelers, this
high-end hotel has suites with
landscaped terraces. Great on-
site restaurant.
Metro Apartments $$
440 West 41st St, 10036
Tel (212) 706-2082 Map 7 C1
Comfortable aparthotel with
fully equipped kitchenettes.
Millennium Broadway $$
145 West 44th St, 10036
Tel (212) 768-4400 Map 12 E5
millenniumhotels.com
Choose from over 700 spacious
and comfortable rooms at this
hotel; popular with corporates.
Key to Prices see p282
Murray Hill East Suites $$
149 East 39th St, 10016
Tel (212) 661-2100 Map 9 A1
Residential-style accommodations
with suites, each with a fully
equipped kitchenette.
Radio City Apartments $$
142 West 49th St, 10019
Tel (212) 730-0728 Map 12 E5
radiocityapts.com
Cozy accommodations, from
studios to one-bedroom suites,
most with kitchenettes.
Penthouse options available.
There is a great on-site Italian
restaurant for guests.
Radisson Martinique on
Broadway $$
49 West 32nd St, 10001
Tel (212) 736-3800 Map 3 F3
radisson.com
Historic French-Renaissance
building with an ornate lobby
and sophisticated rooms.
Sink into elegance and enjoy
superlative service at this
upscale hotel.
Renaissance New York $$
Hotel 57
130 East 57th St, 10022
Tel (212) 753-8841 Map 13 A3
marriott.com
Trendy boutique hotel with
impeccably kept spacious
rooms, hardwood oors, and
spotless marble bathrooms.
Farther Aeld
Sheraton LaGuardia $$
East Hotel
13520 39th Ave, Queens, 11354
Tel (718) 460-6666
starwoodhotels.com
This 16-story hotel features
simple but well-maintained
rooms with coeemakers.
Facade of The Greenwich Hotel,
Downtown
Luxury
Downtown
Gansevoort Hotel $$$
18 Ninth Ave, 10014
Tel (212) 206-9700 Map 3 B1
hotelgansevoort.com
Well-appointed rooms with plush
feather beds. The rooftop pool is
a popular draw.
Gramercy Park Hotel $$$
2 Lexington Ave, 10010
Tel (212) 920-3300 Map 9 A4
gramercyparkhotel.com
Drawing heavily on its Bohemian
heritage, this opulent hotel is
lled with original artwork.
The Greenwich Hotel $$$
377 Greenwich St, 10013
Tel (212) 941-8900 Map 1 B1
thegreenwichhotel.com
Eclectic global style, from
Moroccan tiles to Tibetan rugs.
Snug rooms and inviting decor.
Ritz-Carlton Battery Park $$$
2 West St, 10004
Tel (212) 344-0800 Map 1 B4
ritzcarlton.com
Elegant and modern rooms,
complete with telescopes for
views of the Statue of Liberty.
Soho House $$$
59 Ninth Ave, 10014
Tel (646) 253-6122 Map 3 B1
sohohouseny.com
The New York branch of
Londons exclusive private club.
Rooftop pool, library, and
spacious rooms.
Trump SoHo $$$
246 Spring St, 10013
Tel (212) 842-5500 Map 4 D4
trumphotelcollection.com
Rise above Manhattan in Trumps
looming luxury hotel. Handsome
rooms and a pool deck.
Midtown
DK Choice
Omni Berkshire $$
21 East 52nd St, 10022
Tel (212) 753-5800 Map 12 F4
omnihotels.com
Superlative service and modern,
well-equipped rooms with
marble bathrooms make this
an ideal choice for business
travelers and families. Work out
in the fully equipped tness
center with a sun deck,
followed by creative cocktails
and delicious cuisine in the
Fireside Restaurant.

Spacious outdoor seating area at The Surrey
Four Seasons New York $$$
57 East 57th St, 10022
Tel (212) 758-5700 Map 13 A3
fourseasons.com
The crown jewel in the Four Sea-
sons chain, this luxury masterpiece
has stunning views of Central Park.
Hilton Times Square
234 West 42nd St, 10036
Tel (212) 840-8222 Map 8 E1
timessquare.hilton.com
Great service and elegant, well-
equipped rooms oer a respite
from the bustle of the city.
Kitano
66 Park Ave, 10017
Tel (212) 885-7000 Map 13 A5
kitano.com
Great for corporate guests.
Superlative Japanese service and
complimentary green tea.
The London NYC
151 West 54th St, 10019
Tel (212) 307-5000 Map 2 E4
thelondonnyc.com
A mural of Londons Hyde Park
denes this grand hotel. Gordon
Ramsays restaurant is on site.
New York Palace $$$
455 Madison Ave, 10022
Tel (212) 888-7000 Map 13 A4
newyorkpalace.com
A lavish hotel that lives up to its
name. Set in an 1882 landmark
building with a lovely courtyard.
Le Parker Meridien $$$
118 West 57th St, 10019
Tel (212) 245-5000 Map 12 E3
parkermeridien.com
Spacious designer rooms, great
service, and a rooftop pool. Serves
some of the best burgers in town.
Peninsula New York
700 Fifth Ave, 10019
Tel (212) 956-2888 Map 12 F4
peninsula.com
The Asian chains Big Apple
outpost oers well-appointed,
plush rooms and an indulgent
spa to unwind in after a long day.
The Plaza $$$
768 5th Ave, 10019
Tel (212) 759-3000 Map 12 F3
theplaza.com
This magnicent 1907 grande
$$$ dame eortlessly combines
traditional decor with modern
facilities. Exceptional service.
DK Choice
Ritz-Carlton Central Park $$$
50 Central Park South, 10019
$$$ Tel (212) 308-9100 Map 12 F3
ritzcarlton.com
This luxury hotel maximizes its
proximity to Central Park at
every turn each oor features
great views of the greenery. The
stylish rooms and white-glove
service are signature Ritz-
$$$ Carlton this hotel is among
the very best in the city.
Sotel $$$
45 West 44th St, 10036
Tel (212) 354-8844 Map 12 F5
sotel.com
A warm blend of the contem-
porary and classic lls this 30-story
building. Rooms on higher oors
feature splendid views.
St. Regis $$$
2 East 55th St, 10022
Tel (212) 753-4500 Map 12 F4
stregis.com
A 1904 Beaux Arts building, with
a butler for every oor. Dont miss
the Bloody Mary, a signature
cocktail of the St. Regis group.
The Setai $$$
400 5th Ave, 10018
$$$ Tel (212) 695-4005 Map 8 F2
capellahotels.com
A classy hotel with spacious
suites lled with all modern
amenities, including espresso
machines and rain shower heads.
For more information on types of hotels see p281
W H E R E TO S TAY  287
W Times Square $$$
1567 Broadway, 10036
Tel (212) 930-7400 Map 12 E5
whotels.com
Upscale yet personable,
with well-equipped rooms, a
popular restaurant, and a lively
bar scene.
Waldorf-Astoria/Waldorf $$$
Towers
301 Park Ave, 10022
Tel (212) 355-3000 Map 13 A5
waldorfastoria.com
Presidents and heads of state
have all graced this hotel.
Come here to experience great
sophistication. Gorgeous lobby.
Upper East Side
Carlyle $$$
35 East 76th St, 10021
Tel (212) 744-1600 Map 17 A5
rosewoodhotels.com
Frequented by celebrities and
royalty, this esteemed hotel
with sophisticated interiors
and ultra-elegant decor oers
phenomenal service and
afternoon tea.
The Pierre $$$
2 East 61st St, 10021
Tel (212) 838-8000 Map 12 F3
tajhotels.com
A grand lobby gives way to
impeccable rooms with gracious
interiors. Service is sophisticated
and includes a special room
service menu for pets.
Sherry-Netherland $$$
781 5th Ave, 10022
Tel (212) 355-2800 Map 12 F3
sherrynetherland.com
An old-world hotel with
enormous and well-appointed
suites; indulge in luxury living
and top-of-the-line service.
The Surrey $$$
20 East 76th St, 10021
Tel (212) 288-3700 Map 17 A5
thesurrey.com
Check into one of the suites at
this luxurious hotel, many of
which have kitchens. A roof
garden and tness center, and
great, personalized service.
Upper West Side
Mandarin Oriental $$$
80 Columbus Circle, 10023
Tel (212) 805-8800 Map 12 D3
mandarinoriental.com
A dramatic hotel with Asian-
inspired opulence. Over 200
luxuriously appointed rooms
and a trendy bar. Enjoy stellar
views of Central Park and get
pampered in the spa.
288  TRAVELERS NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

New Yorkers love to eat well, and in the
five boroughs there are more than 25,000
restaurants. City dwellers avidly read restaurant
reviews in magazines and websites such as
New York (www.nymag.com), to ensure that
they are seen in the latest fashionable place.
In restaurants and cuisines change with
great regularity, while some haunts remain
perennially popular. The restaurants cited in
our listings have been selected as the best that
New York can offer across a wide price range.
While the information on pages 292303 will
help you to select a suitable restaurant, there
are details of lighter refreshments on pages
3046. New Yorks Bars on pages 3079
suggests some of the citys best drinking spots.

Street-corner hot dog stand
Restaurant Menus
Meals in most of the better res-
taurants consist of three courses:
an appetizer (starter), an entre
(the main course), and a dessert.
In some fine restaurants you may
be offered a few complimentary
extras. Appetizers at the better
restaurants are sometimes the
chefs most creative dishes.
Coffee or tea and a dessert
ordinarily conclude the meal in
restaurants above the coffee-
shop level. Some establishments
also offer a cheeseboard.
Traditional Italian menus offer
antipasti (hot and cold appe-
tizers), a first course often a
pasta dish, the main course
usually meat or fish, and a dessert.
However, in many places pasta
is served as a main course.
To get a sense of a restaurants
cuisine, visit www.menupages.
com, which features the menus
of many Manhattan eateries.
Other local websites, including
the weekly New York magazines
(www.nymag.com), often have
links to restaurant menus.
Prices
You will always find a restaurant
in New York to suit your budget.
At inexpensive coffee shops,
diners, and fast-food chains,
$10$15 will buy you a filling
meal. There are also many
acceptable, even first-rate,
restaurants where you can eat
well at a moderate cost around
$25 per person for a decent,
filling meal, not including drinks
in attractive surroundings.
For dinner at a trendy New
American venue with a star chef,
the bill could be upward of $80
to $100 per person, excluding
drinks. Many top restaurants do,
however, offer fixed-price (or, as
they are known in New York, prix-
fixe) meals. This is a cheaper way
of enjoying a good meal than
choosing dishes from the la
carte menu. Lunch is less expen-
sive than dinner in such places
and, because of the profusion of
business diners, lunch is often
the busiest period of the day.
Taxes and Tipping
New York City sales tax of
8.875 percent will be added to
your bill. Service is not usually
included. Tipping can run from
10 percent at a coffee shop to
20% at the fanciest places, with
15% an average fair tip. Many
people just double the sales
tax to work out a tip.
The bill is known as the check
in the US. The most commonly
McSorleys Old Ale House (see p308)
accepted credit cards are Visa,
MasterCard, and American
Express. Travelers checks in US
dollars are taken in some rest-
aurants. Diners and coffee shops
may accept cash only. In fast-
food chains, you order at the
counter and pay cash in advance.
The world-famous Carnegie Deli (see p298)
Dining on a Budget
Despite the tales of $200
business lunches, there are
ways to stretch a meal budget
in New York.
Order fewer courses than you
would normally. American por-
tions are huge, and an appetizer
is often big enough for a light
main course. You could share one
with your companion or choose
two appetizers and no entre.
Ask your waiter if there is a
prix-fixe menu. Many of the
more expensive restaurants
offer this at lunch and dinner
in the early evening it may be
called the pre-theater menu.
Or try a prix-fixe lunch buffet.
These are popular in Indian
restaurants and make for very
reasonably priced meals.
Other options for a quick, tasty,
and restorative meal are the less
expensive Chinese, Thai, and
Mexican restaurants. Italian pizze-
rias and French bistros, as well as
places that serve hamburgers or
sandwiches and desserts, also
offer good value. Alternatively, go
to bars featuring happy hours.
They often offer hors doeuvres,

like Spanish tapas, which can
make a meal in themselves.
If you simply want to see inside
the restaurants every visitor has
heard about, such as Gotham Bar
and Grill or Four Seasons, just go
to have a drink and soak up the
atmosphere. Many restaurants
post their menus or will let you
see them before you are seated,
which is good for checking
prices in advance. During
Restaurant Week (held in Jan/
Feb and Jun/Jul), you can dine
in some of the citys restaurants
for a fraction of the usual cost
visit www.nycgo.com.
Hours
Breakfast hours are usually from 7
to 10:30 or 11am. Sunday brunch,
a popular meal, is served at many
restaurants between about
11am and 3pm. Lunch runs
from 11:30am or noon to
2:30pm at most places, but the
busiest time of the day is 1pm.
Dinner is usually served from 5:30
or 6pm onward. The most popu-
lar time is around 7:30 or 8pm.
Some restaurants stop serving
at 10pm during the week, or
11pm on Friday and Saturday.
Certain informal restaurants are
open from 11:30am to 10pm.
Coffee shops are open long
hours, from 7am to midnight
or even 24 hours.
Dress Codes
Few restaurants demand that
male diners dress formally,
though a jacket is required at
certain classy restaurants, and a
jacket and tie at the very best.
At most restaurants, for both
men and women, smart
business casual suffices.
Women tend to dress up when
dining at the more expensive
restaurants. If you are unsure,
check what the dress code is
when you make your reservation.
Reservations
It is wise to make reservations at
any restaurant above the diner/
fast-food level, especially on
weekends. Some of the
trendiest restaurants wont
accept book-ings, or wont take
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Dining in style at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal (see p298)
them less than two months in
advance. Make reservations for
lunch at a Mid-town restaurant
as places here are popular with
business diners. Waits of an hour
at the most popular spots are
not unusual.
Smoking
Smoking is illegal in all bars and
restaurants. The only exceptions
are owner-operated bars that
have special smoking rooms.
Children
When eating out with children,
ask if theres a childs menu with
half-portions. The prices are
reduced, often by half. Dining
out in the more formal New York
restaurants is certainly not a
family affair but children are
accepted in more casual restau-
rants. Many family-friendly
restaurants have facilities for
babies or toddlers; others may
not be so well equipped.
Wheelchair Access
While many restaurants may be
able to accommodate a wheel-
chair, always mention your
requirements when making your
reservation. Many of the smaller
places cannot cater to disabled
customers due to lack of space.
Celebrity Chefs
New York City attracts top
chefs from around the world,
all of whom are determined
to make their mark and win
over the local diners and the
New York Times influential
restaurant reviewer.
 289
A meal in a top restaurant will
not come cheaply, but it can
be worth the splurge. Booking
a table can be difficult, and
reservations should be made as
early as two months in advance.
Many reservations can be made
online through Opentable
(www.opentable.com).
Recommended
Restaurants
New York City offers an array of
cuisines (see The Flavors of New
York, pp29091), from Spanish,
Greek, and Italian to local New
York fare. Our restaurants are
divided into five geographical
areas: Downtown encompasses
Lower Manhattan, Seaport
and the Civic Center, the Lower
East Side, Chinatown, Little Italy,
Soho and TriBeCa, Greenwich
Village, the East Village, and
Gramercy and the Flatiron
District. Midtown covers both
Lower and Upper Midtown, as
well as Chelsea and the Theater
District, which is filled with
restaurants that offer theater
menus for the Broadway-bound.
The Upper East Side features
many upscale restaurants, while
the Upper West Side includes
Morningside Heights and Harlem.
Farther Afield includes restaurants
in Brooklyn and Queens, which
often have an international flavor.
Throughout our listings, weve
marked recommended restau-
rants as DK Choice. Weve chosen
these restaurants because they
offer a special experience
either for the superb cuisine, for
enjoying a uniquely New York
night out surrounded by locals,
for the excellent value, or a
combination of these.
290  TRAVELERS NEEDS

The Flavors of New York

Few cities can match the diversity of New Yorks restaurants. Reflecting the
citys melting pot of nationalities, foods range from the hautest of French
and continental cuisine to the freshest sushi outside of Tokyo.
Caribbean, Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Greek, Indian all
are well represented, and every block seems to have an Italian
restaurant. The quality of the citys top restaurants is unsurpassed
and their chefs are superstars, as well-known and revered as
movie idols. Yet, because so many nationalities are represented
in its culinary culture, only a few foods are native to the city itself. Dim sum

served with cream cheese and a flat, chewy flour-dusted roll

smoked salmon. The bagel,
once synonymous with New
York, has become a universal
American food, but a true New
York bagel is nothing like the
bready imitations found in the
hinterlands. It is shaped by
hand, and the dough is
cooked briefly in boiling water
before being baked, resulting
in a unique firm and chewy
texture. A relative, and another
New York specialty, is the bialy,
with a center indentation filed
with toasted onions. The finest
examples of each are to be
found in the kosher bakeries
of the Lower East Side (see
pp94103).
The Greenmarket
You may well find yourself next
to a well-known chef browsing
at New Yorks greenmarkets,
open-air markets where farmers

Fresh, local produce on display at Pastrami on rye Bagels with smoked

the Greenmarket Blintzes salmon and cream cheese
Dill pickles Pickled
Deli Dining herrings

A large Jewish population

has given rise to some of New
Yorks best known specialties,
now enjoyed by all
overstuffed corned beef
and pastrami sandwiches,
dill pickles, matzo ball soup,
herrings, blintzes, and bagels Selection of classic foods available at any New York deli

New York Specialties

While New York dining may span
all nations, a few special dishes
are closely associated with the
city. Manhattan Clam Chowder,
prepared with tomatoes rather than
cream, has been popular ever since it
was introduced at Coney Island beach
stands in the 1880s. In the citys many
Pretzels
steakhouses, a prime selection is the New York
strip steak, a boneless sirloin cut from the short loin, the
tenderest portion of beef. Italian cuisine has often been given a New
York spin. Rich and creamy New York cheesecake is made with
cream cheese rather the Italian ricotta. And, since traditional wood- Manhattan clam chowder This
burning ovens were impractical in New York, the first Italian is a rich blend of potatoes, onions,
immigrant chefs used coal ovens. Though these are rare today, tomatoes, oyster crackers,
purists still insist they are necessary for a true New York pizza. crumbs, and clams.

Fast food cart on a Manhattan street corner, selling hot dogs and sodas
from upstate New York sell fresh-
picked fruits and vegetables,
as well as meat, poultry, and
dairy products. Dozens
of chefs patronize the
greenmarkets, so youll find
ultra-fresh local produce on
many menus in the city. As
many as 70 vendors attend
the biggest of the markets
in Union Square on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday, and
Saturday (see p131).
Street Food
Street food is a favorite choice
in a fast-moving city. Hot dogs
and oversized soft pretzels are
classic New York choices, along
with some surprisingly good
food cart specialties, from
falafel to soup to barbecue
to Texas chili, all ready to
eat on the run. In winter,
vendors all over town offer
hot roasted chestnuts.
New York-style pizza Thin-
crusted, a true New York
pizza must be baked in a
coal-fired oven.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Soul Food
Harlem is Americas most
famous African-American
community, and restaurants
here are the place to sample
specialties from the Deep
South, such as fried chicken,
ribs, collard greens, yams, and
cornbread. A popular Harlem
dish, fried chicken and waffles,
An Asian produce store in
New Yorks Chinatown
New York strip steak Typically
served with creamed spinach,
fries, or hash-browns, this
tender steak is hard to beat.
 291
is said to have originated to
serve musicians leaving jazz
clubs in the wee hours.
Asian Food Rivals
Chinese restaurants and
dim sum parlors have long
been found throughout the
city, but lately they have been
challenged by the arrival
of many excellent Thai and
Vietnamese restaurants. All
these, however, take second
place to the multiplying sushi
bars and high-profile, highly
praised Japanese chefs.
DELICATESSEN
CLASSICS
Babkas Slightly sweet, yeasted
coffee cakes.
Blintzes Crpes filled with
sweetened soft white cheese
and/or fruit and sautd.
Chopped liver Chicken livers
mashed with minced onion,
hard-cooked eggs and schmaltz
(chicken fat).
Gefilte fish Minced white fish
dumplings poached in fish broth.
A holiday dish.
Knishes Soft dough shells filled
with oniony mashed potatoes.
Latkes Grated potato, onion,
and matzo-meal pancakes.
Rugelach Rich, cream-cheese-
dough pastries filled with jam,
chopped nuts, and raisins.
New York cheesecake This
is a dense, rich, baked cake
with a crust of pastry or
graham crackers.
292  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
The following prices are for a three-
course meal per person, with a half-bottle
of house wine, including tax and service.
$ under $50
$$ $50$90
$$$ over $90

Corner Bistro $
American Map 3 C1
331 West 4th St, 10014
Tel (212) 242-9502
Some of the best burgers in
the city make this dive bar a cult
favorite. After your meal, choose
from the extensive menu of
local beer.
Modern decor at Dirt Candy, popular for its vegetarian fare
Devi $
are rolled by hand and made Indian Map 8 F5
Downtown with locally grown ingredients. 8 East 18th St, 10003
Try the Arkansas red velvet Tel (212) 691-1300
Adriennes Pizza Bar $ cake or apple pie with creamy Relish regional Indian cuisine in
Pizza Map 1 C4 ice cream. Arguably the best a cozy setting of woodcarvings
87 Pearl St, 10004 place to sample established and Indian textiles. Try the
Tel (212) 248-3838 American recipes. tandoor-grilled lamb chops
Munch on thin-crust square pizzas or Manchurian cauliower.
at this neighborhood favorite. Caracas Arepa Bar $
Also try the antipasti. Venezuelan Map 5 A2 Dirt Candy $
536 East 5th St, 10009 Vegetarian Map 5 B1
Angelica Kitchen $ Tel (212) 228-5062 430 East 9th St, 10009
Vegetarian Map 5 A1 Small but perennially packed Tel (212) 228-7732 Closed Sun
300 East 12th St, 10003 joint with avorful Venezuelan & Mon
Tel (212) 228-2909 fare. The specialty is arepas High-concept vegetarian
Try innovative vegetarian cuisine, (corn cakes with a variety of cuisine, from mint and tarragon
from aromatic soups and fresh savory llings). Have them as a zucchini pasta to portobello
salads to creatively prepared snack or a meal. mushroom mousse. Everything
pasta dishes. All ingredients in on the menu can be made
the menu are grown organically, Casimir $ vegan on request.
and bottled beverages of any French Map 5 B2
kind are not used. 103 Avenue B, 10009 Dumpling Man $
Tel (212) 358-9683 Chinese Map 5 A1
Il Bagatto $ Hopping bistro with wholesome 100 St Marks Place, 10009
Italian Map 5 B2 classics such as bouillabaisse Tel (212) 505-2121
192 East 2nd St, 10009 (sh stew) and juicy steak frites. Tiny eatery serving classic
Tel (212) 228-0977 Closed Mon The small backyard here oers northern Asian-style dumplings:
Friendly eatery that draws the the chance to experience a fried or steamed, stued with
crowds. Theres a festive atmos- relaxing dinner under the stars. pork, chicken, tofu, or veggies.
phere at all times, with dim lights Lovely atmosphere. Soups and salads also available.
and candles. The inexpensive red
wine is an added incentive. Chat n Chew $ Empellon Cocina $
American Map 8 F5 Mexican Map 5 A2
Bamiyan $ 10 East 16th St, 10003 105 First Ave, 10003
Afghan Map 9 B3 Tel (212) 243-1616 Tel (212) 780-0999
358 Third Ave, 10016 Kitschy comfort food, including Innovative, but rooted in
Tel (212) 481-3232 meatloaf, mac and cheese, authentic Mexican style, this
Bite into juicy charcoal-grilled and year-round Thanksgiving restaurant blends the classic and
kebabs or indulge in a delicious turkey, in a bright setting. contemporary. Try the lamb
chicken stew at this authentic Dont miss dessert, from pies sweetbreads with pumpkin seeds.
Afghan restaurant. Tribal rugs and to chocolate cake.
low tables create a cozy ambience. Great Jones Caf $
Custom hookahs are also available, Congee Village $ American Map 4 F2
with a wide variety of avors. Chinese Map 5 A4 54 Great Jones St, 10012
100 Allen St, 10002 Tel (212) 674-9304
Bubbys $ Tel (212) 941-1818 An Elvis likeness draped with
American Map 4 D5 Massive, bustling restaurant Mardi Gras beads sets the tone
120 Hudson St, 10013 specializing in congee, a hot rice for this eatery. Enjoy the cocktails
Tel (212) 219-0666 porridge with meat or sh and at the bar. Do sample the Cajun
Bubbys oers hearty traditional spices. The fragrant noodle Mary, and play some vinyl, old-
fare and famous pies that dishes are good too. school style, on the jukebox.

Hearth $ La Palapa
Italian Map 5 A1
403 East 12th St, 10009
Tel (212) 602-1300
Feast on Tuscan-American fare at
this popular bohemian-chic rest-
aurant. Signature dishes include
marinated sardines, pan-seared
skate, and stued cabbage. Top
o the meal with olive-oil cake.
Joes Shanghai $ Vietnamese
Chinese Map 4 F5
9 Pell St, 10013
Tel (212) 233-8888
A downtown institution, this
bustling restaurant makes
delectable dumplings stued
with everything from pork to
vegetables. Be sure to try the
special soup dumplings.
Katzs Delicatessen $ Tel (212) 673-0330
Deli Map 5 A3
205 East Houston St, 10002
Tel (212) 254-2246
A New York institution, this Jewish
deli serves towering pastrami or
corned-beef sandwiches, and
other local delicacies. Vegetarians
can relish the fat knishes (potato,
meat and cabbage dumplings),
split pea soup, and potato latkes.
Lil Frankies $ Inexpensive, all-vegetarian menu,
American Map 5 A2
1921 First Ave, 10003
Tel (212) 420-4900
Hip neighborhood pizzeria with a
backyard garden for alfresco
dining. Pizzas are made in a
wood-red brick oven.
Lombardis $ American
American Map 4 F4
32 Spring St, 10012
Tel (212) 941-7994
One of the top pizzerias in the
city, with thin, charred, brick-oven-
baked pizzas topped with every-
thing from eggplant to pepperoni.
Home-made meatballs and clam
pie are also popular dishes.
Moustache $
Middle Eastern Map 3 C2
90 Bedford St, 10014
Tel (212) 229-2220
Hugely popular, casual eatery
with avorful grilled lamb and
chicken and delicious, crisp
Turkish pitzas pizzas made
with pita dough.
Il Palazzo $
Italian Map 4 F4
151 Mulberry St, 10013
Tel (212) 343-7000
Fresh pasta and risottos, a decent
wine list, and a glassed-in garden
make this one of Little Italys best
eateries. The outdoor courtyard
simply adds to the charm.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  293
$ Tamarind $
Mexican Map 5 A1 Indian Map 8 F4
77 St Marks Place, 10003 4143 East 22nd St, 10010
Tel (212) 777-2537 Tel (212) 674-7400
Colorful restaurant with regional Feast on excellent curries
Mexican cooking such as baked and succulent lamb at this
catsh, plus tart margaritas, and modern and vibrant restaurant.
other tequila drinks. Expect rich, Oers great value for money,
spicy salsas and sauces. with generous portions and a
wide range of Indian dishes to
Pho Pasteur $ choose from.
Map 4 F5
85 Baxter St, 10013 Westville $
Tel (212) 608-3656 American Map 3 C2
Sample excellent Vietnamese 210 West 10th St, 10014
rolls and hot noodle soup with Tel (212) 741-7971
beef brisket or sh balls at this Hearty traditional fare, from
tiny, but very popular, eatery. mac n cheese to cod poboys,
at this casual, narrow eatery. The
Sammys Roumanian $ food is simple but wholesome,
Eastern European Map 5 A4 and the domestic beer list is
157 Chrystie St, 10002 top-notch too.
Feast on latkes, ruby-red Zum Schneider $
pastrami, and chopped liver at German Map 5 B2
this old-world restaurant. Try a 107 Ave C, 10009
local beer to top o the meal. Tel (212) 598-1098
There is a party room upstairs for Its Oktoberfest all year round at
those looking to shake a leg. this boisterous beer garden with
super sausages. Traditional
Saravanaa Bhavan $ Bavarian-German menu. Big
Indian/Vegetarian Map 9 A4 crowds on the weekend.
81 Lexington Ave, 10016
Tel (212) 679-0204 Aldea $$
Mediterranean Map 8 F5
which incorporates a dizzying 31 West 17th St, 10011
assortment of South Indian Tel (212) 675-7223 Closed Sun
specialties such as Rasam, a spicy Portuguese-American chef
lentil soup. Good selection of George Mendes is at the helm
Indian desserts. Friendly service of this intimate Mediterranean-
matches the casual ambience. inspired spot. Do not miss the
suckling pig with true pure.
Shake Shack $
Map 9 A4 Aquagrill $$
Southeast corner of Madison Square Seafood Map 4 D4
Park, near Madison Ave and East 201 Spring St, 10012
23rd St, 10010 Tel (212) 274-0505
Tel (212) 889-6600 Calling all seafood lovers: this
Sink your teeth into juicy burgers lovely restaurant, with an airy
and crinkle-cut fries at this outdoor patio, serves the freshest
perennially popular shack where sh and shellsh in town, accom-
guests can eat under the cool panied by aromatic sauces. Great
shade of trees. Delicious shakes. seafood platter.
Customers dining at Aldea restaurant
For more information on types of restaurants see p289
294  TRAVELERS NEEDS
The exterior of Balthazar, with its huge picture windows
DK Choice
Balthazar $$
French Map 4 E4
80 Spring St, 10012
Tel (212) 965-414
This bistros hopping atmosphere
is hard to resist, especially once
youve caught a glimpse of it
through the large windows
overlooking Spring Street.
Restaurateur Keith McNallys
brasserie empire is crowned by
this stylish place, which rolls out
French favorites steak frites,
oysters, and Bordeaux wine for
a lively crowd, from SoHo literati
to fashionistas in stilettos.
Battery Gardens $$
American Map 1 C4
17 State St, 10004
Tel (212) 809-5508
This eaterys unique waterside
location makes it worth a visit.
The Mediterranean-inuenced
American fare is decent, but come
also for the phenomenal views
of the Statue of Liberty.
Beauty & Essex $$
American Map 5 B3
146 Essex St, 10002
Tel (212) 614-0146
Extremely elegant, sophisticated,
and spacious. Serves global small
plates and oers an elaborate pre-
selected menu for large groups.
Blue Hill $$
American Map 4 E4
75 Washington Place, 10011
Tel (212) 539-1776
This restaurant uses the freshest
ingredients sourced from local
farms. Try the smoked salmon
with beet pure, and check
out the elaborate ve-course
Farmers Feast tasting menu,
based on the weeks harvest.
Key to Prices see p292
Blue Ribbon Bakery $$
American Map 4 D3
35 Downing St, 10014
Tel (212) 337-0404
A small plates menu of excellent
locavore cuisine, from barbecued
pork to organic salads. Wash
it down with the excellent
selection of local beers.
Blue Smoke $$
American Map 9 A3
116 East 27th St, 10016
Tel (212) 447-7733
Esteemed restaurateur Danny
Meyer delivers authentic pit
BBQ at its nest. Try the ribs
or pulled-pork sandwiches,
both dripping with juices.
There is an excellent jazz club
downstairs with two sets
every evening.
Boqueria $$
Spanish tapas Map 4 D4
171 Spring St, 10012
Tel (212) 343-4255
Taste Barcelona-style tapas
along with sangria, in this lively,
vibrant place. Try grilled squid,
Place settings at Boqueria, a Barcelona-
style tapas bar
lamb meatballs, and
creamy croquettes with ham.
The restaurant works closely
with local farmers to get fresh,
local ingredients.
Craft $$
American Map 9 A5
43 East 19th St, 10003
Tel (212) 780-0880
Creative chef Tom Colicchio
oers a deconstructed menu
that celebrates fresh ingredients.
Try the roasted swordsh or
rabbit loin, or braised beef
short ribs. Be sure to taste the
mouthwatering desserts.
Da Silvano $$
Italian Map 4 D3
260 Sixth Ave, 10014
Tel (212) 982-2343
A Tuscan restaurant thats
better known for its celebrity
clientele than its cuisine.
Coveted outdoor tables and
gently lit interiors make for a
great ambience.
Dos Caminos $$
Mexican Map 4 F3
475 West Broadway, 10012
Tel (212) 277-4300
Fresh Mexican cuisine, such as
thick guacamole served with
warm tortilla chips and grilled
chicken, as well as potent
tequilas, draws daily crowds to
this rather boisterous restaurant.
Popular for brunch.
The Dutch $$
American Map 4 D3
131 Sullivan St, 10012
Tel (212) 677-6200
Oysters and traditional US
cuisine, like rabbit pot pie, are
highlights at this trendy tavern.
Also enjoy an American bourbon,
straight up. Great food in a
lively, atmosphere.

LEcole $$
French Map 4 E4
462 Broadway, 10012
Tel (212) 219-3300
Delightful restaurant where
students of the French Culinary
Institute prepare all the
exquisite meals for customers
from seared sh to rich meats.
Edi & the Wolf $$
Austrian Map 5 B2
102 Ave C, 10009
Tel (212) 598-1040
This rustic restaurant is inspired
by the casual neighborhood
taverns in Austria. Feast on
traditional fare such as pork
schnitzel and delicious pastry
desserts. Good choice of wine.
Fatty Crab $$
Malaysian Map 3 B1
643 Hudson St, 10014
Tel (212) 352-3590
Chef Zak Pelaccio delights
tastebuds with fragrant,
Malaysian-inspired cuisine. Try
classics such as beef rendang,
and do not miss the delicious
cocktails avored with elder-
ower, honey, and Thai basil.
Fraunces Tavern $$
American Map 1 C4
54 Pearl St, 10004
Tel (212) 968-1776 Closed Sun
Historic 18th-century tavern
with classic American steak and
sh dishes. Stop by the bar for
happy hours. The place oers
18 craft beers on tap.
Freemans $$
American Map 5 A3
Freeman Alley, near Rivington, 10002
Tel (212) 420-0012
This fashionable restaurant,
hiding at the end of an alley, has
a menu reminiscent of a 1950s
supper party, with rum-soaked
ribs and sti cocktails. Old-world
American tavern-style decor.
The bar area at Freemans restaurant
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Low lighting and rustic decor at Da Silvano
Gotham Bar & Grill $$
American Map 4 E1
12 East 12th St, 10003
Tel (212) 620-4020
A stately restaurant that has
become a respected New York
institution. The Greenmarket
xed-price lunch menu oers
excellent value for money.
Gramercy Tavern $$
American Map 9 A5
42 East 20th St, 10003
Tel (212) 477-0777
Acclaimed chef Michael
Anthony creates superlative,
market-fresh fare in this rustic
yet elegant restaurant. Do not
miss the chocolate bread
pudding.
Les Halles $$
French Map 1 C2
15 John St, 10038
Tel (212) 285-8585
A lively brasserie with top-notch
fare, from succulent steak with
Barnaise sauce to tasty grilled
salmon to fresh salads with tangy
dressings. There is a ne selection
of French wine on the menu.
For more information on types of restaurants see p289
 295
The Harrison $$
American Map 4 D5
355 Greenwich St, 10013
Tel (212) 274-9310
American classics with a twist,
such as pork tenderloin with
cherries, are served at this homey
yet hip spot. Great selection of
local and international beers.
Hill Country $$
Barbecue Map 8 F4
30 W 26th St, 10010
Tel (212) 255-4544
This spot honors Texan barbecue
by using a custom meat-smoking
room to yield tender brisket,
sausage, and ribs, which can be
accompanied by an extensive
choice of sides. Casual environs,
featuring live music most nights.
Hundred Acres $$
American Map 4 D3
38 MacDougal St, 10012
Tel (212) 475-7500
Tuck into farm-to-fork cuisine,
such as juicy lamb and fried
green tomatoes, at this cozy spot.
There is a lovely garden at the
back of the restaurant.
inoteca $$
Italian Map 5 A3
98 Rivington St, 10002
Tel (212) 614-0473
One of the citys most
distinguished wine bars. Enjoy
panini, antipasti, and other dishes
that draw from classic Italian
wine bar cuisine.
Jane $$
American Map 4 E3
100 West Houston St, 10012
Tel (212) 254-7000
Casual neighborhood bistro with
a loyal following thanks to
unpretentious dishes made with
fresh, local produce. Welcoming
environs are packed for the
popular weekend brunch service.
296  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Stately red-brick entrance to One if by Land, Two if by Sea
Jewel Bako $$
Japanese Map 4 F2
239 East 5th St, 10003
Tel (212) 979-1012 Closed Sun
This tiny but impeccable
restaurant serves exquisite
sushi. Also check out the wide
range of sashimi on oer.
Note that the prices of dishes
can quickly add up but its
well worth it.
Kest $$
Pizza Map 4 D2
271 Bleecker St, 10014
Tel (212) 243-1500
Acclaimed Italian pizza-maker
churns out some of the citys
most delicious wood-red,
Neapolitan-style pizzas. Inventive
toppings, as well as gluten-free,
vegetarian, and vegan options.
Kittichai $$
Thai Map 4 D4
60 Thompson St, 10012
Tel (212) 219-2000
Graceful orchids at the entrance
are an apt introduction to this
soothing Thai restaurant. Try
the pan-seared tuna with
toasted coconut red curry.
The Little Owl $$
American Map 3 C2
90 Bedford St, 10014
Tel (212) 741-4695
Charming neighborhood joint
with innovative, market-fresh,
Mediterranean-style cuisine. Try
their signature pork chops and
gravy meatball sliders.
Locanda Verde
Italian Map 4 D5
379 Greenwich St, 10013
Tel (212) 925-3797
Enjoy family-style, impeccably
crafted Italian cuisine, from
pasta to seafood, at this stylish
restaurant in actor Robert De
Niros hotel. Try the specialty
Italian beers and cocktails.
Key to Prices see p292
Lupa $$
Italian Map 4 F3
170 Thompson St, 10012
Tel (212) 982-5089
Celebrity chef Mario Batali serves
superb pasta and grilled meats
at this Italian trattoria. It is busy
most nights of the week, so
book ahead. Enjoy a cocktail at the
bar while waiting for your table.
The Mermaid Inn $$
Seafood Map 5 A2
96 Second Ave, 10003
Tel (212) 674-5870
With its raw bar, New England-
style chowder, and lobster
sandwiches, this casual place
draws a youthful, trendy crowd.
Wash the seafood down with a
Brooklyn beer.
Minetta Tavern $$
Italian Map 4 D2
113 McDougal St, 10012
Tel (212) 475-3850
Sink your teeth into juicy steaks
at this bistro that is both casual
and celebrity-friendly. The dark-
wood bar serves top-notch
cocktails and bourbons.
Momofuku Noodle Bar $$
Asian Map 5 A1
171 First Ave, 10003
Tel (212) 475-7899
Celebrated Korean-American
chef David Chang oers innova-
tive ramen and other Japanese
classics. Try the pork buns and
the fried chicken, which comes
with pancakes.
$$ Odeon $$
French Map 1 B1
145 West Broadway, 10013
Tel (212) 233-0507
This bistro oers great steak
tartare and spicy chicken
dumplings plus people-
watching. Enjoy the dessert
wines and cocktails on oer.
Online reservations only.
One if by Land, Two if by Sea $$
American Map 3 C3
17 Barrow St, 10014
Tel (212) 228-0822
One of the most romantic
restaurants in NYC, set in
Aaron Burrs famous carriage
house. Nightly three-course
xed-price menu with live piano
music. Try the seven-course
tasting menu.
Otto $$
Italian Map 4 E1
1 Fifth Ave, 10003
Tel (212) 995-9559
Buzzing, upscale pizzeria from
chef Mario Batali; dont miss the
lardo pizza. The creative wine
list features excellent vintages
from Italy. Reasonable prices and
friendly service.
Pearl Oyster Bar $$
Seafood Map 4 D4
18 Cornelia St, 10014
Tel (212) 691-8211 Closed Sun
This longtime favorite serves
up a raw oyster bar and sinfully
tasty lobster rolls. Very popular,
so be prepared to wait lines
are long at peak times.
Petite Abeille $$
Belgian Map 1 B1
134 West Broadway, 10013
Tel (212) 791-1360
Slurp on mussels and French fries
at this inviting eatery decorated
with the beloved cartoon
character Tintin. The waes,
which come with a variety of
dierent toppings, including
fruit, whipped cream, and
maple syrup.
Prune $$
American Map 5 A3
54 East 1st St, 10003
Tel (212) 677-6221
Small and rustic, this delightful
place does oshoots of
American favorites such as
bacon and eggs atop a tangle
of peppery spaghetti.
Public $$
Australian Map 4 F3
210 Elizabeth St, 10012
Tel (212) 343-7011
Experience cuisine from Down
Under with a classy twist at
this hip restaurant. One of the
highlights featured on the menu
is the grilled kangaroo paired
with a New Zealand wine.
Pure Food and Wine $$
Vegan Map 9 A5
54 Irving Place, 10003
Tel (212) 477-1010
Unique and upscale restaurant
dedicated to raw vegan cuisine,

including coconut noodles and
zucchini lasagne. Does not use
any processed ingredients.
Spice Market $$
Southeast Asian Map 3 B1
403 West 13th St, 10014
Tel (212) 675-2322
This sensuous restaurant serves
Southeast Asian street food
and fusion cocktails. Check out
the vinegar-infused pork
vindaloo (a spicy curried dish).
The Spotted Pig $$
British Map 3 B2
314 West 11th St, 10014
Tel (212) 620-0393
Britons will feel at home in this
upscale pub. Excellent wine list
plus, of course, plenty of stout
and ale. Try the 5 veg a ve-
course vegetarian platter.
Spring Street Natural $$
Vegetarian Map 4 F4
62 Spring St, 10012
Tel (212) 966-0290
Wholesome dishes made with
fresh natural ingredients have
been a neighborhood staple for
decades. Choices include vegan
macrobiotic plates.
The Standard Grill $$
American Map 3 B1
848 Washington St, 10014
Tel (212) 645-4100
Bustling farmhouse-chic bistro
with grilled steaks and burgers,
locally sourced salads, and an
excellent assortment of ales. The
grilled Mayan shrimp is popular.
Stanton Social $$
American Map 5 A3
99 Stanton St, 10002
Tel (212) 995-0099
The party atmosphere and
creative cocktails overshadow
the small plates designed for
sharing at this trendy spot.
There is a DJ on weekends.
Strip House $$
American Map 4 E1
13 East 12th St, 10003
Tel (212) 328-0000
A bordello-inspired steakhouse
with plush banquettes. Opt for
the dry-aged strip steak with
goose-fat potatoes, and the
24-layer chocolate cake.
SUteiShi $$
Sushi Map 2 D2
24 Peck Slip, 10038
Tel (212) 766-2344
Top-notch sushi and other
Japanese oerings in a stylish,
high-ceilinged space. Creative,
locally themed rolls include the
King of NY and Pecks Peak. Plush surroundings at the Union Square Caf
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  297
Tertulia $$ Eleven Madison Park $$$
Spanish tapas Map 4 D2 American-French Map 9 A4
359 Sixth Ave, 10014 11 Madison Ave, 10010
Tel (646) 559-9909 Tel (212) 889-0905 Closed Sun
Sample smoked mussels and Contemporary cuisine is served
steaming paella heaped with in this beautiful Art Deco
shrimp at this vibrant tapas bar. restaurant. The food is exquisite
The menu also features an but it comes at a price. Dont
excellent selection of tapas dishes. forget your credit card.
I Trulli $$ Megu $$$
Italian Map 9 A3 Japanese Map 1 B1
122 East 27th St, 10010 62 Thomas St, 10013
Tel (212) 481-7372 Tel (212) 964-7777
Romantic, upscale restaurant Fantastic Japanese fare, including
specializing in southern Italian the freshest sh, in this massive,
cuisine. Strict policy of sourcing trendy restaurant. The focus is on
all ingredients locally. Dine organic dining. Dont miss the
outside in the garden in summer. kobe beef skewers.
The Waverly Inn and Nobu $$$
Garden $$ Japanese Map 4 D5
American Map 3 C1 105 Hudson St, 10013
216 Bank St, 10014 Tel (212) 219-0500
Tel (212) 243-7900 One of NYCs best-known
The homespun name belies Japanese restaurants. Chef Nobu
the scene within: celebrities Matsuhisa has designed a super-
and fashionistas dine on classic lative menu but be prepared to
American fare such as juicy splurge. Try the lobster with
pork chops. Popular weekend wasabi pepper sauce.
brunch. Reservations are a must.
Tocqueville $$$
Babbo $$$ French Map 8 F5
Italian Map 4 D2 1 East 15th St, 10003
110 Waverly Place, 10011 Tel (212) 647-1515 Closed Sun
Tel (212) 777-0303 This inconspicuous gem oers
Famous chef Mario Batalis agship French cuisine with a Japanese
restaurant, with superlative pasta, twist, including lavender Arctic
grilled meats, and oal. The wine char. Excellent wine list.
list is extensive and bound to
make wine lovers happy. Union Square Caf $$$
American Map 9 A5
Bouley $$$ 21 East 16th St, 10003
French Map 1 C1 Tel (212) 243-4020
163 Duane St, 10013 Danny Meyers agship
Tel (212) 66-5829 Closed Sun restaurant is one of NYCs most
A high-prole restaurant by popular. This place uses the
chef Daniel Bouley; exquisite, freshest ingredients from the
pricey fare but more than local greenmarket. The elaborate
worth it. The emphasis is on chefs table menu can feed up
both taste and nutritional value. to 12 guests.
For more information on types of restaurants see p289
298  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Stylish decor at Buddakan, an Asian fusion
eatery in Chelsea
Midtown
Burger Joint at Le Parker
Meridien $ all-Spanish wine list.
American Map 12 E3
119 West 57th St, 10019
Tel (212) 708-7414
Kitschy spot with mouth-
watering burgers, shakes, and
beers. It is tucked away behind
the curtains in the lobby of Le
Parker Meridien hotel.
Carnegie Deli
Deli Map 12 E4
854 Seventh Ave, 10019
Tel 800-334-5606
Huge pastrami and corned beef
sandwiches are served at this
New York deli. Also worth trying
are the knishes (dumplings).
Eataly $$$
Italian Map 8 F4
200 Fifth Ave, 10010
Tel (212) 229-2560
Mario Batalis exuberant Italian
market fresh pasta, sausages,
cheeses, multiple eateries and
cafs, and a rooftop beer garden.
Entrance of Carnegie Deli, great for authentic New York fare
Key to Prices see p292
Sueos $ BLT Steak
Mexican Map 8 D5
311 West 17th St, 10011
Tel (212) 243-1333 Closed Mon
Tangy margaritas and lling
Mexican cuisine. Try the chili
tasting menu and dont miss the
shredded beef mini tacos.
Taboon
Middle Eastern Map 11 C4
773 Tenth Ave, 10019
Tel (212) 713-0271
Middle Eastern meets
Mediterranean at this inviting
rustic eatery. Excellent wine list.
Tia Pol $ restaurant serves superb seafood.
Spanish tapas Map 7 C4
205 Tenth Ave, 10011
Tel (212) 675-8805
An infectious spirit pervades this
tiny tapas bar; sample fried
chickpeas, squid in its own ink,
and fresh fruit jugs of sangria.
Check out the comprehensive
Ali Baba $$
Turkish Map 9 B2
212 East 34th St, 10016
Tel (212) 683-92-6
Dine on babaganoush and stued
grape leaves at this traditional
eatery. Mouthwatering grilled
meats are also on the menu.
$ Enjoy modern Asian cuisine and
Artisanal $$
French Map 9 A2
2 Park Ave, 10016
Tel (212) 725-8585
Dashing bistro with elegant
interiors. Try the elaborate cheese
platter and the fondues. Superb
selection of cocktails.
Becco $$
Italian Map 11 D5
355 West 46th St, 10036
Tel (212) 397-7597
Homely restaurant most famous
for its pasta tasting menu and
excellent Italian wine list.
$$
American Map 13 A3
106 East 57th St, 10022
Tel (212) 752-7470
Trendy Bistro Laurent Tourondel
serves up fat, succulent steaks
with a variety of tangy sauces,
including a creamy Barnaise
and a tart three-mustard. The
$ signature warm popovers and
oversized onion rings are great.
Blue Fin $$
Seafood Map 12 E5
1567 Broadway, 10036
Tel (212) 918-1400
Spacious and sophisticated, this
One of the better dining experi-
ences in fast food-packed Times
Square. Live jazz in the evenings.
Bottino $$
Italian Map 7 C4
246 Tenth Ave, 10001
Tel (212) 206-6766
Housed in a century-old hardware
shop, this northern Italian
restaurant oers great food and
a boutique wine list. It also has
a beautiful patio and garden.
Buddakan $$
Asian fusion Map 8 D5
75 Ninth Ave, 10011
Tel (212) 989-6699
cocktails at Buddakan, with its
soaring ceilings and incredible
decor. The spacious dining room
is ideal for large groups.
Dawat $$
Indian Map 13 B3
210 East 58th St, 10022
Tel (212) 355-7555
Experience fragrant and delicious
Indian fare here. The salmon
rubbed with coriander chutney is
a highlight, or go for the popular
chicken tikka masala. The shrimp
appetizer is also a good bet, too.
Esca $$
Italian Map 8 D1
402 West 43rd St, 10036
Tel (212) 564-7272
Chef Mario Batali achieves
greatness again in this excellent
southern Italian trattoria. Try the
superb whole sea bass for two,
cooked in sea salt.
Estiatorio Milos $$
Greek Map 12 E4
125 West 55th St, 10019
Tel (212) 245-7400
Seafood palace with everything
from grilled lobster to traditional
Greek sh soup. Try the Mediter-
ranean meze plate, or the grilled
Canadian scallops, and sample
the selection of Greek wines.

Felidia $$
Italian Map 13 B3
99 East 52nd St, 10022
Tel (212) 758-1479
TV star and chef Lidia Bastianich
serves upscale Italian cuisine in
this rened townhouse. The wine
list is top-notch.
DK Choice
Grand Central Oyster Bar $$
Seafood Map 9 A1
Lower Level, Grand Central
Terminal, 89 East 42nd St, 10017
Tel (212) 490-6650
Sample fresh oysters at this
seafood palace, which is
crowned by grand, vaulted
ceilings. The chefs opt for
simple preparation a squirt
of lemon or a hand-plucked
garnish allowing the fresh
sh and shellsh to shine on
its own delectable merit.
La Grenouille $$
French Map 12 F4
3 East 52nd St, 10022
Tel (212) 752-1495 Closed Mon
A classic French restaurant,
ideal for a romantic dinner.
The intimacy factor is magnied
by the soft banquettes and
ickering candles.
Marseille
French-Moroccan Map 12 D5
630 Ninth Ave, 10036
Tel (212) 333-2323
This inviting restaurant with tiled
oors features classic dishes such
as duck cassoulet and tagines.
Michael Jordans
Steakhouse NYC $$
American
23 Vanderbilt Ave, Grand Central
Terminal, 10017
Tel (212) 655-2300
The chances of seeing the
celebrity basketball player are
Dining in style at the glamorous Grand Central Oyster Bar, famed for its seafood
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Chic dining room at Pampano restaurant
slim, but the steaks are perfectly
charred. Ideal for a power lunch.
Molyvos $$
Greek Map 12 E4
871 Seventh Ave, 10019
Tel (212) 582-7500
Superb Greek fare, from steaming
moussaka to juicy lamb. There is
also a sh display showcasing
what the kitchen has to oer.
Dining rooms are spacious.
Normas $$
American Map 12 E3
$$ 119 West 56th St, 10019
Tel (212) 708-7460
One of Midtowns best-known
brunch spots, serving massive
omelets and pancakes. The
dining room is sleek and inviting.
Osteria al Doge $$
Italian Map 12 E5
142 West 44th St, 10036
Tel (212) 944-3643
Northern Italian specialties, from
hearty grilled meats to fresh
home-made pasta, are served at
this friendly, rustic spot. Do not
miss the thin-crust pizzas.
For more information on types of restaurants see p289
 299
Pampano $$
Mexican Map 13 B2
209 East 49th St, 10017
Tel (212) 751-4545
A chic restaurant from chef
Richard Sandoval. Signature
dishes include smoked swordsh,
grilled halibut, and chunky
guacamole. Good selection of
desserts. Lovely terrace.
The Red Cat $$
American Map 7 C4
227 Tenth Ave, 10011
Tel (212) 242-1122
New England-style barnhouse
setting, relaxed atmosphere, and
professional service. Oers
delectable dishes such as fried
oysters. Sample the wild bass in
white-wine butter. Great wine list.
Rue 57 $$
French fusion Map 12 F3
60 West 57th St, 10019
Tel (212) 307-5656
The unlikely pairing of French
cuisine and Japanese sushi
draws the crowds here. Or enjoy
authentic bistro cuisine it also
dishes out American classics.
300  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Gordon Ramsay $$$

French-Asian Map 12 E4
151 West 54th St, 10019
Tel (212) 468-8888 Closed Sun & Mon
British celebrity chef Gordon
Ramsay performs his magic in
the kitchen, with exquisite dishes
such as lobster ravioli. For a true
sampling, opt for the seven-
course tasting menu.

Marea $$$
Seafood Map 12 D3
240 Central Park South, 10019
Tel (212) 582-5100
Dine on razor clams and sea bass
at this seafood oasis, or enjoy the
wide variety of oysters and anti-
pasti. Excellent weekend brunch.
Lovely outdoor seating at Cafe Boulud
Morimoto $$$
The Sea Grill $$ classics such as Swedish Japanese Map 7 C5
Seafood Map 12 F5 meatballs, gravlax, and toast 88 Tenth Ave, 10011
19 West 49th St, 10020 skagen. Enjoy signature cocktails Tel (212)-989-8883
Tel (212) 332-7610 Closed Sun in the comfy bar lounge. Choose anything from fresh sushi
An elegant temple to seafood, to Kentucky Fried blowsh. A
with superb grilled sh and Aureole $$$ sake sommelier will act as your
shellsh. Modern setting with American Map 8 F1 guide to the exceptionally
spectacular views. 135 West 42nd St, 10036 extensive sake menu.
Tel (212) 319-1660
Shun Lee Palace $$ Chef Charlie Palmer oers
Chinese Map 13 A4 inventive cuisine at this hand-
155 East 55th St, 10022 some restaurant, which also Upper East Side
Tel (212) 371-8844 features a popular pre-theater
This upscale restaurant serves menu and an excellent selection Beyoglu $
traditional Chinese mainland of wines. Turkish Map 17 B5
cooking. The Grand Marnier 1431 Second Ave, 10028
prawns are sinfully good. Le Bernardin $$$ Tel (212) 650-0850
French Map 12 E4 This whimsically decorated place
Smith & Wollensky $$ 155 West 51st St, 10019 oers delicious, authentic meze,
American Map 13 B5 Tel (212) 554-1515 including stued grape leaves
797 Third Ave, 10022 Chef Eric Ripert turns out and borek (lo pastry parcels
Tel (212) 753-1530 French masterpieces at this stued with feta cheese).
Bite into quality steaks at this elegant restaurant. Favorite
clubby steakhouse. Equally hearty dishes include red snapper Brother Jimmys BBQ $
are the appetizers, including split with smoked paprika. Great American Map 17 B5
pea soup and seafood cocktails. for seafood lovers. 1485 Second Ave, 10021
Tel (212) 288-0999
Trestle on Tenth $$ DB Bistro Moderne $$$ Carnivores will swoon at this
Swiss Map 7 C4 French Map 8 F1 rowdy restaurant with nger-
242 Tenth Ave, 10001 55 West 44th St, 10036 lickin BBQ. Thanks to the
Tel (212) 645-5659 Tel (212) 391-2400 generous portions, it oers great
Dine on Swiss specialties, Famed chef Daniel Boulud is at value for money.
including rosti and pork, at this the helm of this comfortably
charming spot. In the summer, noisy bistro with excellent Shanghai Pavilion $
opt for the shaded garden. fare. There are two dining Chinese Map 17 B5
rooms, linked by a paneled 1378 Third Ave, 10021
Virgils Real Barbecue $$ wine bar. The French wine list Tel (212) 585-3388
American Map 12 E5 is excellent. Extensive menu of Shanghai
152 West 44th St, 10036 specialties, including top-notch
Tel (212) 921-9494 Four Seasons $$$ dim sum. Also oers unique
Fill up on juicy pork ribs, chicken American Map 13 A4 seafood dishes, such as lobster
wings, hunks of cornbread, and 99 East 52nd St, 10022 tropicana. Great food overall.
collard greens at this noisy BBQ Tel (212) 754-9494 Closed Sun
joint. Oers a variety of authentic Thanks to its impressive Caf Boulud $$
Mexican, Creole, and Cajun classics. longevity and stunning decor, French Map 16 F5
this restaurant is one of New 20 East 76th St, 10021
Aquavit $$$ Yorks most famous. Experience Tel (212) 772-2600
Scandinavian Map 13 A4 a relaxing lunch by the poolside. Enjoy chef Daniel Bouluds
65 East 55th St, 10022 There is a dedicated grill room impeccable creations in a casual
Tel (212) 307-7311 and a wooden bar that is a setting. Seasonal dishes include
Inventive cuisine in a sleek, popular draw. The art collection duck breast with Brussels sprouts
minimalist dining room. Try is excellent. and apple cider.
Key to Prices see p292
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  301

Caf dAlsace $$ Sfoglia $$ Caf Fiorello $

French Map 17 B3 Italian Map 17 A2 Italian Map 12 D2
1695 Second Ave, 10128 1402 Lexington Ave, 10128 1800 Broadway, 10023
Tel (212) 722-5133 Tel (212) 831-1402 Tel (212) 595-5330
A cheery slice of French Alsace, A small and rustic eatery with Tuck into an array of dishes from
with tiled oors, owing red Italian farmhouse fare such as the antipasto bar at this cheerful
wine, and crisp tartes. Opt for a duck with apricots. The menu joint. And dont miss the signa-
sidewalk table to watch the changes bimonthly and the ture thin-crust pizza. Sit outside
crowds stream by. Italian wine list is excellent. in warm weather and watch the
Lincoln Center crowds stream by.
Caf Sabarsky $$
Austrian Map 16 F3 DK Choice Caf Frida $
1048 Fifth Ave, 10028 Daniel $$$ Mexican Map 15 C1
Tel (212) 288-0665 Closed Tue French Map 13 A2 368 Amsterdam Ave, 10025
Classsic Viennese caf with 60 East 65th St, 10021 Tel (212) 749-2929
aromatic coees and hearty Tel (212) 288-0033 Closed Sun Chomp on Mexican favorites
specialties from goulash to If splurging in the city is the such as fajitas and tacos at this
strudel. Lovely dining room lined objective, this is the place lively spot, and wash them down
with Austrian art. for it. The opulent French with the tangy, potent margaritas.
restaurant of acclaimed chef
David Burke Townhouse $$ Daniel Boulud oers a super- Sylvias $
American Map 13 A3 lative sensory experience, from Southern American Map 21 B1
133 East 61st St, 10021 the rst step into the grand 328 Lenox Ave, 10027
Tel (212) 813-2121 dining room and the rich forkful Tel (212) 996-0660
Enjoy innovative New American of foie gras to the nal bite of Soul food at its nest, from fried
cuisine in a sleek, lacquered the sinful chocolate mousse. chicken with waes to Carolina-
setting. The restaurant is popular Excellent wine list and seamless style catsh. The breakfast spread
for its weekend brunch, with a service make the Daniel is quite elaborate. The Southern
unique array of egg dishes. For experience truly worthwhile. desserts are divine, including the
dinner, choose the pretzel-crusted peach cobbler.
crabcake followed by lobster steak.
Sasabune $$$ Asiate $$
Flex Mussels $$ Sushi Map 13 C1 Asian Map 12 D3
Belgian Map 17 A4 401 East 73rd St, 10021 80 Columbus Circle, 10019
174 E 82nd St Tel (212) 249-8583 Tel (212) 805-8881
Tel (212) 717-7772 At this outpost of the famed Los Stellar views are matched by the
Be charmed by this delightful Angeles and Honolulu sushi creative Asian cuisine. Popular
seafood bistro. Delicious mussels shrines the only option is the dishes include Wagyu beef with
in a rainbow of avors, from nightly omakase (chefs tasting) oxtail sauce, pan-seared foie gras,
prosciutto and caramelized menu, freshly prepared to order. and butter-poached lobster.
onion to blue cheese and bacon. Three-course xed-price brunch
The wine list is good too. menu on weekends.

Maya $$ Upper West Side Bar Boulud $$

Mexican Map 13 C2 French Map 12 D2
1191 First Ave, 10021 Amy Ruths $ 1900 Broadway, 10023
Tel (212) 585-1818 Southern American Map 21 B3 Tel (212) 595-0303
Come here for Mexican 113 West 116th St, 10026 Famed chef Daniel Boulud
specialties try the avorsome Tel (212) 280-8779 opened this peasant restaurant
guacamole and freshly made Soul food at its most comforting, with rustic French fare. The decor
tortillas. Dont miss the drinks, from delicious fried chicken to is sleek and modern, and there is
from tangy margaritas to tequilas. ham hocks. an outdoor terrace area.

Stylish dining room at Daniel, a great place for delightful French cuisine

For more information on types of restaurants see p289

302  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Caf Luxembourg $$ Loeb Boathouse Restaurant fried green tomatoes, tasty

French Map 11 C1 Central Park $$
446 Columbus Ave, 10024 American Map 12 E1
Tel (212) 873-7411 East 72nd St and Park Drive North,
Art Deco Parisian bistro popular Central Park, 10023
with business diners. Charmingly Tel (212) 515-2233
traditional, with antique mirrors Lovely setting by Central Parks
and a zinc-topped bar. lake. Popular with couples on a
romantic date. Decent American
Calle Ocho $$ fare and an outdoor bar area.
Cuban Map 16 D4
446 Columbus Ave, 10024 Ouest $$
Tel (212) 873-5025 American Map 15 C4
Its a never-ending party at this 2315 Broadway, 10024
colorful restaurant. Feast on a Tel (212) 580-8700
range of spicy Latino dishes, from An elegant eatery with unique
ceviche to yucca fries, or try twists on American favorites. Try
the marinated Aji tuna and the seared tuna with chickpea
cured salmon. puree. Great selection of desserts
to choose from.
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que $$
American Map 20 D1 Picholine $$
700 West 125st St, 10027 French Map 12 D2
Tel (212) 694-1777 35 West 64th St, 10023
Started by avid bike enthusiasts, Tel (212) 724-8585 Closed Sun
this rowdy BBQ joint dishes out Superb French-Mediterranean
massive ribs, crispy chicken cuisine and artisanal cheeses.
wings, and American beers. Popular with those attending
Come by on the weekends for a concert at Lincoln Center.
live jazz and comedy shows. Sample the diver sea scallops or
the steamed black sea bass.
Gennaro $$
Italian Map 15 C2 Pio Pio $$
665 Amsterdam Ave, 10025 Peruvian Map 15 C2
Tel (212) 665-5348 702 Amsterdam Ave, 10025
Delectable cuisine, and a Tel (212) 665-3000
reasonably priced wine list. The Try the signature crispy rotisserie
lamb shank braised in red wine chicken here. Hearty combo
is quite a hit. There is a no- platters are a great way to save
reservation policy at this popular money theyre easily big
restaurant, so be prepared to enough to feed two.
wait during peak times.
Hudson River Caf $$ DK Choice
Latin American Red Rooster $$
697 West 133rd St, 10027 American Map 21 B1
Tel (212) 491-9111 310 Lenox Ave, 10027
Treat your taste buds to global Tel (212) 792-9001
cuisine at this spacious, airy Clever, Southern-style comfort
eatery. Sink into the chic and food is on oer at Red Rooster.
relaxed ambience, and enjoy a Try the succulent steak with
chilled local beer.
roast pork loin, or ery jerk
chicken. The restaurants
name pays homage to the
original Red Rooster, a Harlem
speakeasy where liquor was
sold illicitly during Prohibition.
Rosa Mexicano $$
Mexican Map 12 D2
61 Columbus Ave, 10023
Tel (212) 977-7700
This trendy restaurant serves
sparkling sangrias and chunky
guacamole. Try dishes such as
tacos with achiote-seasoned pork,
or spicy enchiladas. Gluten-free
lunch and dinner also on oer.
Telepan $$
American Map 12 D1
72 West 69th St, 10023
Tel (212) 580-4300
Chef Bill Telepan sources local
ingredients to create innovative
dishes such as heirloom tomato
gazpacho salad. There is a prix-
xe brunch menu, as well as a
four-course tasting menu.
Jean Georges $$$
French Map 12 D3
1 Central Park West, 10023
Tel (212) 299-3900 Closed Sun
The jewel in the crown of famed
French chef Jean-Georges
Vongerichten. For an optimal
overview, choose one of the
exquisite tasting menus. Emphasis
is on organic ingredients.
Masa $$$
Japanese Map 12 D3
10 Columbus Circle, 10029
Tel (212) 823-9800 Closed Sun
Chef Masa breaks the record for
the most expensive tasting meal
ever at $450, but it is worth every
cent. Take a seat at the sushi bar
to watch the chefs in action.
Per Se $$$
American Map 12 D3
10 Columbus Circle, 10019
Tel (212) 823-9335
Chef Thomas Keller has introduced
superlative Californian-inuenced
cuisine to New York. There are
two unique nine-course tasting
menus to indulge in, and a great
selection of wines, plus
spectacular views of Central Park.

Tavern on the Green $$$

American Map 12 D2
Central Park West & 67th St, 10023
Tel (212) 877-8684
Central Parks most famous
restaurant serves modern fare to
well-heeled locals and visitors,
many of whom come here to
Elegant interiors at the well-reviewed Per Se celebrate special occasions.
Key to Prices see p292

Farther Aeld
Al Di L $
Italian
248 Fifth Ave, Brooklyn, 11215
Tel (718) 783-4565
Try the braised rabbit with black
olives at this whimsical Venetian-
inspired joint. Dont miss the
mouthwatering desserts,
including tangy gelato.
Elias Corner $
Greek
2402 31st St, Queens, 11102
Tel (718) 932-1510
Hugely popular restaurant with
the freshest sh in town. The
large garden is perfect for groups.
Fette Sau $ drunken noodles with tofu,
American
354 Metropolitan Ave, Brooklyn,
11211
Tel (718) 963-3404
Juicy BBQ, from ribs to pork belly,
served in a rustic former garage.
Wash the meal down with robust
beer or a glass of wine.
Jackson Diner $ leaves and lo pastry stued with
Indian
3747 74th St, Queens,11372
Tel (718) 672-1232
Spacious cafeteria with one of
the best buets in town. Classic
North Indian appetizers; try the
tandoori chicken (cooked in a
clay oven), samosas (fried stued
pastries), and thick lassis (yogurt-
based drink).
Pies-N-Thighs $ list. Try their popular peanut
American
166 South 4th St., Brooklyn, 11211
Tel (347) 529-6090
Classic American, from the dining
to the decor. Try shrimp and grits,
fried chicken, pulled pork, and
butter biscuits. Delicious breakfast
spread, and the weekend brunch
menu is great.
Red Hook Lobster Pound $ dishes include giant meatballs
Seafood
284 Van Brunt St, Brooklyn, 11231
Tel (646) 326-7650 Closed Mon
Fresh lobster meat is served every
which way at this seafood shack.
Choose a Maine lobster from the
saltwater tank and have it cooked.
The exible catering service
includes a specialized lobster
truck that delivers door to door.
Sripraphai $ juicy slabs, from porterhouse
Thai
64-13 39th Ave, Queens, 11377
Tel (718) 899-9599 Closed Wed
Locals swear by this hole-in-the-
wall place, said to serve the best
Thai in the city. There is an
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Peter Luger Steakhouse, a haven for meat lovers
elaborate menu dedicated to
vegetarian food try the sauteed
vegetables, chili, and basil leaves.
Wash it down with some black
Thai ice tea.
Agnanti Meze $$
Greek
1906 Ditmars Blvd, Queens, 11105
Tel (718) 545-4554
Lively place with lled grape
Med-inuenced American fare.
cheese on the menu. There is an
outdoor patio for the summer,
and a replace for winter.
Il Bambino $$
Italian
3408 31st Ave, Queens, 11106
Tel (718) 626-0087
Solid Italian-American cuisine,
such as fat paninis, and aord-
able wines on the extensive wine
butter hot chocolate. Casual
atmosphere and sharp service.
Frankies 457 Spuntino $$
Italian
457 Court St, Brooklyn, 11231
Tel (718) 403-0033
Trendy neighborhood favorite
with brick walls, hearty food,
and sti cocktails. Seasonal
and eggplant crostini.
Grimaldis $$
Italian
19 Old Fulton St, Brooklyn, 11201
Tel (718) 387-7400
One of New Yorks most famous
pizzerias. The coal-red oven
pizzas, with creamy mozzarella
and fresh tomato sauce, are
worth the long lines.
The Grocery $$
American
288 Smith St, Brooklyn, 11231
Tel (718) 596-3335 Closed Sun & Mon
Delightful restaurant with a
summer garden. Try seasonal
For more information on types of restaurants see p289
 303
treats such as duck with
bulghur wheat, or bite into
grilled squid and seared
scallops. Enjoy the excellent
selection of local beers.
Marlow & Sons $$
American
81 Broadway, Brooklyn, 11211
Tel (718) 384-1441
Wonderfully eccentric, with
communal tables and
The menu leans towards organic,
and includes delicacies such
as a tart of goat cheese and
wild leeks.
Prime Meats $$
American
465 Court St, Brooklyn, 11231
Tel (718) 254-0327
A delight for carnivores, this
friendly restaurant oers all kinds
of meat from pork schnitzel to
grass-fed beef. Theres also a
strong domestic beer list and
potent cocktails.
Rye $$
American
247 South 1st St, Brooklyn, 11211
Tel (718) 218-8047
Taste the succulent meatloaf
sandwich and wash it down
with creative cocktails at this
former factory.
DK Choice
Peter Luger Steakhouse $$$
American
178 Broadway, Brooklyn, 11211
Tel (718) 387-7400
Since 1897, this New York
institution has been satisfying
carnivores with massive
to prime rib and pot roast.
The sauce is rather too
delectable, and it can be
taken home its bottled
and for sale.
304  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Light Meals and Snacks

You can get a snack almost anywhere and anytime in La Boite en Bois, small but
Manhattan. New Yorkers seem to eat endlessly on street delightfully French, serves
corners, in bars, luncheonettes, delis, before and after work, delicious French bistro food
and is conveniently close to
and long into the night. Casual eating in New York might
Lincoln Center. P.J. Clarkes is
include soft pretzels or char-roasted chestnuts from a corner a welcoming bar famous for its
stand; a huge sandwich from a deli; a Greek gyro sandwich burgers; it is also an affordable
(roasted lamb in pita bread) from street vendors; a pre-theater spot for a pre-theater meal.
snack at a caf or coffee bar; or a post-party binge at an all- Sarabeths, on the Upper
night diner or bistro. While street fare is generally cheap, the West Side, defies categorizing,
but might best be dubbed a
quality and culinary skills vary greatly. caf. Breakfast or weekend
brunch is the best time to try
Delis serves gourmet sandwiches and waffles, French toast, pancakes,
Delicatessens are a New York expertly prepared coffees to a and omelets.
institution, not to mention a stylish crowd. The Caf Centro, The Gramercy Park areas Les
great source for a hefty lunch- above Grand Central, is busy Halles is about as all-out French
time sandwich. Any visitor to and noisy during lunchtime, bistro as New York gets. At its
the city should definitely try a and is a favorite with business late-night peak, the decibel
delis wonderful corned beef types. The Centros Provenal/ level is high, but regulars think
and pastrami sandwiches. While Mediterranean fare includes fish the frites and beef dishes are
Carnegie Delicatessen in the soups and some succulent worth the noise and crowds.
Theater District is perhaps New desserts. Brasserie on East 53rd,
Yorks most famous deli, Katzs a longtime landmark, has had
Deli on the Lower East Side is an elegant remodeling. Benoit, Pizzerias
much more authentic and Alain Ducasses casual bistro, is Pizza is available all over
cheaper. Also deservedly a classy destination offering New York, from street stands
popular is Second Avenue familiar French fare to the and fast-food places that sell
Deli, with its superb pastrami midtown lunch crowd. it by the slice to a traditional
on rye and oozing blintzes. Downtown, Odeon is a TriBeCa Neapolitan pizzeria.
Most deli business is takeout favorite for its brasserie menu Some pizzerias offer
and, as a result, delis are bustling and late hours. Raouls in SoHo something more. Arturos
places serving huge sandwiches is a French bistro with a relaxed Pizzeria uses a coal oven for
at relatively cheap prices. ambience that keeps artists and crisp, thin-crusted bases with
Counter staff are typically surly other habitus coming back the added inducement of live
and impatient, but to many for reliable, informal food. jazz. Mezzogiorno has a Tuscan
that is part of the charm of Elephant and Castle, a minimally menu and wonderful pizzas
these old-school establish- decorated caf, is a Greenwich with unusual toppings.
ments. Mile End provides a Village standby for soup-salad- Lombardis oven-baked pizzas
more modern deli experience. omelette lunches. Its real forte are considered among the finest
For New York ethnic Jewish is breakfast and brunch, served in Manhattan. The crowded
flavor, try Barney Greengrass, in ample portions at modest Mezzaluna also specializes in
on the Upper West Side. In prices. The bar scene is lively too. brick-oven, thin- crusted pizza,
operation since 1929, the Tiny Chez Jacqueline is also a as does Johns Pizzeria, whose
Sturgeon King serves up lox, favored Village spot. Its French fans, including Woody Allen,
salmon, pastrami, and, of course, bistro fare and proximity to consider it Manhattans best.
sturgeon. Zabars is a takeout several off-Broadway theaters At Two Boots, specialty pies
heaven for yuppies who put make it popular with the young, are named for characters in
up with the crowds for superb hip, and international crowd for movies and TV shows, such as
smoked fish, pickles, and salads. a moderately priced dinner or The Newman, from Seinfeld, and
late supper. The Dude, from The Big Lebowski.
In the Theater District, try Brooklyn boasts a top pizzeria
Cafs, Bistros, the Cuban Victors Caf. Large, in Coney Islands Totonno
and Brasseries lively, and Latin, it is known Pizzeria, which is well worth the
Cafs, bistros, and the larger for authentic Cuban food served trip for real pizza aficionados,
brasseries have become in in giant portions at medium though it also has a Manhattan
places in New York. Try the prices. Chez Josephine is an branch. Joes Pizza has made a
upscale Balthazar on Spring exuberant bistro-cabaret name for itself in Brooklyn and
Street for brilliantly faux with live jazz piano playing. Manhattan. Its often busy, but
everything except the menu, The scene is the main attraction the lines move quickly.
which is stellar. In the Meat- here, and the French food Generally, pizza parlors are
packing District, Kava Cafe is excellent. good places to go for a cheap,

simple meal, particularly with
children. Most places wont take
reservations, so popular ones
may have long lines.
Burger Joints
Apart from the hot-dog stands
on the street, New York has
many places selling better
quality burgers, even though
prices for a top-notch gourmet
burger can often top $20.
Burgers have even gone
upscale with famed New
York restaurateur Danny Meyer
creating the Shake Shack,
which has several locations
around Manhattan, including
one at Madison Square Park. It
offers good-value eats all year
round. In midtown, the stylish
Le Parker Meridien Hotel houses
the Burger Joint, which looks
like a truck-stop, and has some
of the best burgers in town.
Bright and basic, the five
outlets of Jackson Hole offer
fat, juicy, meaty burgers in 28
varieties popular with kids.
Adults might prefer less glare
and smarter decor, but they will
like the low prices. Alternatively,
sink your teeth into the burgers
on offer at the Five Guys chain.
The Corner Bistro in
Greenwich Village offers New
Yorks best burgers, tasty and
reasonably priced. The beer
selection is good, too, and the
4am closing makes this a great
late-night stop.
Diners and
Luncheonettes
Diners and luncheonettes, also
called sandwich or coffee shops,
can be found all over New York
City. Food is sometimes bland
but served in huge, cheap
platefuls. They are usually
open from breakfast until
evening, and you can stop
in at almost any hour.
A favorite trend with diners
has seen 1990s replicas of the
old 1930s cheap-eats places.
One such retro diner is Chock
Full o Nuts, a relaunch of a
chain of coffee-branded cafs.
A brighter, higher-energy option
can be found near Carnegie Hall,
in the Brooklyn Diner.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Theatergoers love Juniors diner
in Brooklyn, which is famous
for its delicious cheesecake.
In the heart of Brooklyns hip
Williamsburg neighborhood,
Diner offers an upscale take on
the NYC diner experience. The
Coffee Shop in Union Square
serves Brazilian-American fare
and is open all night.
On the Upper East Side, Eli
Zabars E.A.T. sells excellent
but pricey Jewish favorites
such as mushroom-barley
soup and challah bread, as
well as some sinful desserts.
Another popular UES spot is
EJs Luncheonette, offering
classic kid-friendly meals in
a retro 1950s setting.
Devotees swear by Viand,
a relaxed East Side
luncheonette, with cheap,
ample American breakfasts,
good burgers, egg creams, and
the best turkey sandwiches in
town. Veselka, not the usual
New York sandwich shop, serves
Polish/Ukrainian food at rock-
bottom prices to an eclectic
local crowd 24 hours a day.
Tea Rooms
Enjoy top-notch service, a
range of gourmet teas, and
delightful bites at a formal,
prix-fixe afternoon tea in a
lounge at one of New Yorks
pricier hotels, usually offered
from 3 to 5pm.
For an extra-stylish tea, on
Chippendale furniture, visit
Carlyle in the Upper East Side.
Another good buy in hotel prix-
fixe tea is Hotel Pierre. Tea at the
Waldorf-Astoria comes with
Devonshire cream, while the
elegant tea at The Plazas Palm
Court has been an NYC tradition
for more than a century.
A variation on tea themes
can be found in a chain of
teahouses called Saints Alp.
These delightful spots, serving
frothy, flavored, colorful tea
drinks poured over crushed
ice, can be found at 51 Mott
Street near Chinatown and
in the East Village and Times
Square areas. Teatime can
also be enjoyed at Tea &
Sympathy, in the Village, on
Greenwich Avenue.
 305
Coffee and Cakes
You can get a decent cup
of coffee for as little as a
dollar or two, with endless
free refills, at most diners,
luncheonettes, and coffee
shops. There is a popular
trend for coffee bars that
serve a variety of specialty
coffees, such as cappuccino,
espresso, and caff latte. Ice-
cream parlors and patisseries
also serve good coffee, along
with sinfully luscious pastries.
People wait in lines out
the door at Magnolia
Bakerys original Greenwich
Village location. There are
also several other outposts
across the city selling
decadent cupcakes and
delicious cookies. Joe, the
self-proclaimed master of
the art of coffee, maintains
numerous locations around
the city, while Ferrara Bakery
and Caf, going strong since
1892, has moderately priced
Italian pastries, good coffee,
and outdoor seating.
The Hungarian Pastry
Shop has a range of
Austro-Hungarian delights
and views of St. John the
Divine. Located in the Hotel
Edison, Caf Edison offers
reasonably priced food in
an Art Nouveau setting. Sant
Ambroeus is a luxurious
outpost of the Milanese
pasticceria selling sumptuous
desserts. In addition to
home delivery of pies or
cakes, Dessert Delivery
has a nifty caf for tasting
the pastries and coffee. Try
Serendipity 3, famous for
its Victoriana, ice-cream
creations if youre an ice-
cream aficionado dont miss
the frozen hot chocolate
as well as coffee, and mid-
afternoon snacks.
Barnes & Noble Caf is a
happy refuge for coffee and
a pastry while browsing the
bookstore. Mudspot is the
permanent counterpart to
the mobile, bright orange
Mudtrack van that sells
potent coffee. And, like
them or not, you cant ignore
Starbucks, which has dozens
of locations around town.
306  TRAVELERS NEEDS

DIRECTORY
Lower East Side, Joe Carnegie E.A.T.
Chinatown, and 141 Waverly Place. Delicatessen 1064 Madison Ave.
Little Italy Map 3 C1. 854 7th Ave. Map 17 A4.
Map 12 E4.
Ferrara Bakery Joes Pizza EJs Luncheonette
and Caf 7 Carmine St. Chez Josephine 1271 3rd Ave.
195 Grand St. Map 4 D3. 414 W 42nd St. Map 13 B1.
Map 4 F4. Map 7 B1.
Kava Cafe Hotel Pierre
Katzs Deli Johns Pizzeria 2 E 61st St.
803 Washington St.
260 W 44th St. Map 12 F3.
205 E Houston St. Map 3 B1.
Map 5 A3. Map 12 E5. Jackson Hole
Magnolia Bakery One of three branches. 232 E 64th St.
Saints Alp 401 Bleecker St.
Juniors Map 13 B2.
51 Mott St. Map 3 C2.
Shubert Alley, enter on One of several branches.
Map 4 F4. 200 Columbus Ave.
45th St. Mezzaluna
Two Boots Map 12 D1. Map 12 E5.
1295 3rd Ave.
42 Avenue A. Sant Ambroeus Victors Caf Map 17 B5.
Map 5 B2. 259 W 4th St. 236 W 52nd St.
Map 3 C1. The Plaza
Map 11 B4.
Soho and Tribeca 768 5th Ave.
Tea & Sympathy Map 12 F3.
Lombardis 108 Greenwich Ave.
Lower Midtown
32 Spring St. Serendipity 3
Map 3 C1. Second Avenue Deli
Map 4 F4. 225 E 60th St.
162 E 33rd St. Map 13 B3.
Mezzogiorno East Village Map 9 B2.
195 Spring St. Viand
Mile End Caf Centro 1011 Madison Ave.
Map 4 D4. 53 Bond St. Grand Central Station, E Map 17 A5.
Odeon Map 4 F2. 42nd St at Park Ave. One of four branches.
145 W Broadway. Map 9 A1.
Mudspot
Map 1 B1. Upper West Side
307 E 9th St. Upper Midtown
Raouls Map 4 F1. Barney Greengrass
180 Prince St. Barnes & Noble Caf 541 Amsterdam Ave.
Veselka Citicorp Building,
Map 4 D3. Map 15 C3.
144 2nd Ave. 160 E 54th St.
Starbucks Map 4 F1. Map 13 A4. La Boite en Bois
72 Spring St. 75 W 68th St.
Map 4 F4. Gramercy and Brasserie Map 11 C1.
One of many branches. the Flatiron 100 E 53rd St.
Map 13 A4. P.J. Clarkes
The Coffee Shop 44 W 63rd St.
Greenwich Brooklyn Diner Map 12 D2.
Village 29 Union Square West.
212 W 57th St.
Map 9 A5. Map 12 E3.
Sarabeths
Arturos Pizzeria 423 Amsterdam Ave.
Les Halles Burger Joint Map 15 C4.
106 W Houston St.
411 Park Ave South. Le Parker Meridien Hotel,
Map 4 E3. Zabars
Map 9 A3. 118 W 57th St.
Balthazar 2245 Broadway.
Shake Shack Map 12 E3.
80 Spring St. Map 15 C2.
Madison Square Park. Waldorf-Astoria
Map 4 E4.
Map 8 F4. 301 Park Ave. Morningside
Chez Jacqueline Map 13 A5. Heights and
72 MacDougal St. Chelsea and the Harlem
Map 4 D2. Garment District Upper East Side
The Hungarian
Corner Bistro Chock Full o Nuts Benoit Pastry Shop
331 W 4th St. 25 W 23rd St. 60 W 55th St. Amsterdam & 109th St.
Map 3 C1. Map 8 F4. Map 12 F3. Map 20 E4.
Elephant and Castle Carlyle
68 Greenwich Ave. Theater District Brooklyn
35 E 76th St.
Map 3 C1. Map 17 A5. Diner
Caf Edison
Five Guys Edison Hotel, 85 Broadway.
Dessert Delivery
296 Bleecker St. 228 W 47th St. 350 E 55th St. Totonno Pizzeria
Map 3 C3. Map 12 D5. Map 13 B4. Tel 838-5411. 1524 Neptune Ave.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  307

New York Bars

New York bars play a huge role in the life and culture of the The Meatpacking District is
city. Many New Yorkers spend the evening in a succession of lined with lively bars, including
bars, because each usually offers something more than just Cielo, a strobe-lit bar and club
with potent cocktails and a
alcohol. There may be additional inducements, like excellent
soundtrack with everything
food, live music, dancing, or a particularly large selection of from 1980s pop to hip-hop.
beers. Brew pubs, which serve meals and brew beer on the Hidden away in the trendy West
premises, are also popular. Bars suiting every taste and Village is Employees Only, a
budget are to be found on most corners. stylish hangout that has won
a cult-like following due to its
expert cocktails and intense
Rules and What to Drink waitstaff. Many of its staff depart
Conventions Mainstream bars serve standard to run cocktail programs around
Bars generally remain open beers from big producers, such the world, and its famed Bloody
from around 11am until 2am. as Budweiser, Coors, and Miller, Mary mix can be purchased at
The majority stay open to 4am, as well as high-profile imports fine specialty shops across the
when they must close by law. including Becks, Heineken, and city. Tao Bar, located in a former
Many bars have a happy hour, draft Guinness. Old pubs and theater next to the Four Seasons
usually between 4 and 6pm, chic bars have a much wider Hotel, is spread over three floors:
when they offer deals such as variety of beers, imported and the top two are devoted to pan-
two drinks for the price of one small domestics. These include Asian cuisine and overlook the
and free snacks. Bartenders can flavorful beers, usually based bar below. The nightlife in the
refuse to serve anyone they on traditional European styles, Lower East Side (LES) is growing
consider having had too much made by some of New Yorks in leaps and bounds, with
to drink. Smoking is banned microbreweries. The locally numerous bars and clubs
and is only allowed outside or brewed Brooklyn Lager is opening their doors. Enjoy
in specially ventilated rooms. highly rated. cocktails and conversation
The legal minimum drinking Other popular drinks include at the lively Schillers Liquor
age is 21; if the bartender designer, or fusion, cocktails, Bar. Formerly the Bowery Bar,
suspects you are younger, rum and coke, vodka and tonic, the B-Bar still attracts a stylish
youll be carded, or asked for gin and tonic, dry Martinis, and crowd, though some claim
identification. Children arent Scotch or bourbon either its glory days are over. In the
usually allowed in. straight up (without ice) or summer, the enormous outdoor
It is common to run a tab on the rocks (with ice). The space cant be beaten. Pravda
by giving the bartender a credit Cosmopolitan is very New is another favorite in nearby
card and paying your bill just York: vodka, cranberry juice, NoLIta. Subdued lighting
before you leave. Tipping the triple sec, and lime. Most of creates a degree of calm in this
bartender is expected 15 the bars serve a range of subterranean spot decorated
percent of the bill or at least Martinis made with vodka. in Soviet chic. The Odeon on
$1 per drink. Shots are not Wine is widely available at Broadway captures the lively
pre-measured, so if you want bars, and the wine bar concept SoHo-TriBeCa scene.
a bigger drink, it can help to has made a comeback, with
belly up to the bar and tip options all over the city.
the bartender accordingly for Bars with Views
his or her generosity. You may Top of the Tower, on the 26th
even be poured a free drink if Food floor of the Art Deco Beekman
you tip handsomely. If you sit Some bars serve food Tower, offers unsurpassed
at a table, youll be served there such as burgers, fries, salads, views of the city and great
and charged more. A round sandwiches, and spicy chicken piano music. Also with great
of drinks can be expensive. wings throughout the day. views are the Rooftop Bar and
Save money by buying a quart If you are visiting the bar of Lounge at the Empire Hotel,
(95 cl) or a half-gallon (190 cl) a popular restaurant, you can Stone Rose Lounge in the Time
pitcher of beer. often order bar snacks. Most Warner Center, and, for views
Many bars have obtained bar kitchens stop serving food of the expanding World Trade
liquor licenses under an around midnight. Center skyline, the Living Room
oscure cabaret law that Terrace at the W Downtown.
prohibits dancing. Bars are In warm weather, Bryant Park
regularly closed down for Fashionable Bars Caf is a popular midtown
ignoring this rule, so if staff ask To get into a hip bar, you scene, or you can sip cocktails
you to refrain from dancing to might need to look glamorous and soak up the dazzling
music, they are serious and and be prepared to wait in views on 230 Fifths vast
should be obeyed. line, unless you arrive early. wrap-around terrace.
308  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Historic and Literary Bars
If you sample only one New
York bar, it should probably
be McSorleys Old Ale House,
an Irish saloon often dubbed
McSurlys because of its staff.
It opened in 1854, and is one
of the citys oldest bars.
The Ear Inn dates from 1812,
when the first tavern opened
on this SoHo site. Its cramped
interior and long wooden bar
ooze authenticity. Another
SoHo favorite is Fanellis Caf, a
former speakeasy that opened
its doors in 1922 (though locals
have been visiting the watering
hole on this site since 1847).
Greenwich Village has some
of the citys oldest bars, such
as Dylan Thomass favorite, the
White Horse Tavern, an 1880s
landmark still crowded with
literary and collegiate types.
It also has an outdoor caf for
warm weather. Peculier Pub
is a beer-lovers paradise, with
over 360 varieties of beer.
A good, if touristy, place for
a drink in the financial district
is Fraunces Tavern, first built
in 1719 (see p78).
Petes Tavern in the
Gramercy Park area dates to
1864. Busy until 2am, it is known
for Victoriana and the house
brew called Petes Ale. The
typical Irish pub Old Town Bar
has been serving stout since
1892, and is now favored largely
by advertising types. No longer
the celebrity scene it once was,
Sardis still appeals to New York
Times reporters, and serves
generous portions.
Hidden away in the balcony
of Grand Central Terminal is
The Campbell Apartment, the
former private office of 1920s
tycoon John W. Campbell. The
spectacular space resembles a
13th-century Florentine palace.
On the Upper East Side, the
Uptown Lounge offers potent
cocktails, tasty nibbles, and
lively dance tunes.
A bustling saloon with Irish
bartenders, P.J. Clarkes has
been New Yorks favorite since
the 1890s. Dating back to 1930,
the 21 Club remains one of the
citys most atmospheric haunts,
complete with a ceiling
crammed full of antique toys.
Near Carnegie Hall is
P.J. Carneys, a watering hole
for musicians and artists since
1927. It serves Irish ales and
a good shepherds pie.
Hotel Bars
Brew Pubs
Brew pubs, where the house
beer is brewed on the premises,
are all the rage with the 20- and
30-somethings, as are bars that
stock a variety of microbrews
and imported beers. The
Chelsea Brewing Company is a
large, fun-filled brew pub in the
Chelsea Piers sports complex. In
the Gramercy neighborhood,
you will find the Heartland
Brewery, a bustling brew pub
with five beers, including the
outstanding India Pale Ale,
and many seasonals, such as
pumpkin ale. The cozy bar at
The Room, in SoHo, has a good
selection of beers and wine.
Serious beer drinkers will
enjoy the 170 draft and bottled
Belgian beers on offer at Burp
Castle, while homesick Brits
will likely head to Manchester
Pub. In a cozy, publike setting,
youll find Watneys or Newcastle
Brown Ale on tap, just two of
the 18 draft beers, and 40
bottled ones not widely
available in New York.
In the East Village is bustling
d.b.a., which has 14 draft beers
on tap, along with scores of
microbrews and 50 single-malt
whiskeys to choose from.
A popular beer stop uptown
for the college-age crowd is
the loud and noisy Brother
Jimmys BBQ, where you
can snack on old-fashioned
southern barbecued ribs.
Park Slope Ale House
in Brooklyn is another brew
pub favored by the young for
its home brews and seasonal
beers, as well as its decent pub
grub and lively ambience.
Gay and Lesbian Bars
Gay bars can be found in
Greenwich Village, Chelsea,
and the East Village with a few
on the Upper East and West
Sides. Lesbian bars are mostly
in Greenwich Village and
East Village. For current
listings, check the free weekly
gay publication Next
(www.nextmagazine.com).
Centrally located, the Algonquin
Hotel (see p147) was a famous
literary haunt in the 1920s and
early 1930s. Its Lobby Lounge
and Blue Bar are good places
for a quiet pre-dinner or pre-
theater drink.
The minimalist Bar 44 in the
lobby lounge of the Royalton
Hotel is a perfect spot for a drink
while watching the theatrical
crowds drifting in and out.
Also in the Theater District,
the Paramount Bar has floor-
to-ceiling windows and is
usually frequented by fashion
and theater types. In Upper
Midtown theres the Gilt Bar,
where you can recline on soft,
plush red velvet seats.
The Bull and Bear in the
Waldorf-Astoria, dating back
to the Prohibition era, exudes
comfort, charm, and a sense
of history.
The stylish King Cole Room
at St. Regis Hotel is named after
a colorful mural behind the bar,
by Maxfield Parrish.
Relax to downtempo tunes
at the Grand Bar. One of New
Yorks trendier nightspots, the
Soho Grands bar is a good place
to people-watch. Its sister hotel,
the Tribeca Grand, also draws
a crowd to its Church Lounge.
With dark-wood panels, navy-
blue color scheme, and a kitschy
seafaring theme, the Maritime
Hotels Lobby Bar draws a young,
trendy crowd. Special attractions
include a roaring fire in winter and
an outdoor terrace in summer.
The glass-floored Hudson Bar
at Ian Schragers trendy Hudson
Hotel is a regular hotspot. The
Rose and Jade bars, in Schragers
Gramercy Park Hotel, are filled
with fashionistas drinking in the
eclectic-Bohemian vibe. Equally
popular are Thom Bar at the 60
Thompson Hotel and Bookmarks
at the Library Hotel; both attract
a sophisticated scene. For those
interested in joining the Sex and
the City crowd, theres Rande
Gerbers Whiskey Blue Bar in
one of the boutique W Hotels.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  309

DIRECTORY
Lower Manhattan Peculier Pub Chelsea and the Gilt Bar
145 Bleecker St. Garment District New York Palace Hotel,
Fraunces Tavern Map 4 D3. 455 Madison Ave.
54 Pearl St. peculierpub.com
Chelsea Brewing Map 13 A4.
Map 1 C4. Company giltnewyork.com
frauncestavern.com White Horse Tavern Pier 59, 11th Ave.
567 Hudson St. Map 7 B5. King Cole Room
Living Room Terrace Map 3 C1. chelsea St. Regis Hotel, 2 E 55th St.
W Downtown, 123 brewingco.com Map 12 F5.
Washington St. East Village and
Lobby Lounge Manchester Pub
Map 1 B3. Lower East Side,
Maritime Hotel, 920 2nd Ave.
Chinatown, and
363 W 16th St. Map 13 B5.
Soho and TriBeCa Little Italy
Map 8 D5. P.J. Clarkes
Church Lounge B-Bar themaritimehotel. 915 3rd Ave.
Tribeca Grand, 2 6th Ave. 40 E 4th St. Map 4 F2. com Map 13 B4.
Map 4 D4. bbarandgrill.com
tribecagrand.com Burp Castle
Theater District Stone Rose Lounge
10 Columbus Circle,
The Ear Inn 41 E 7th St. Bar 44 4th Floor.
326 Spring St. Map 4 F2. Royalton Hotel, Map 12 D3.
burpcastlenyc. 44 W 44th St.
Map 3 C4. gerberbars.com
earinn.com
wordpress.com Map 12 F5.
Tao Bar
Fanellis Caf d.b.a. Bryant Park Caf 42 E 58th St.
41 1st Ave. Map 5 A1. Bryant Park.
94 Prince St. Map 13 A3.
drinkgoodstuff.com Map 8 F1.
Map 4 E3. taorestaurant.com
McSorleys Old Ale bryantpark.org
The Grand Bar Top of the Tower
House Hudson Bar
Soho Grand, 310 Beekman Tower, 3
15 E 7th St. Hudson Hotel,
W Broadway. Mitchell Place.
Map 4 F2. 356 W 58th St.
Map 4 E4. Map 13 C5.
mcsorleysnewyork. Map 12 D3.
sohogrand.com thebeekman
com hudsonhotel.com hotel.com
The Odeon Schillers Liquor Bar Paramount Bar Whiskey Blue Bar
145 W Broadway. 131 Rivington St. Paramount Hotel, 541 Lexington Ave.
Map 1 B1. Map 5 B3. 235 W 46th St.
theodeonrestaurant.
Map 13 A2.
Map 12 E5. gerberbars.com
com Gramercy
P.J. Carneys
Pravda Heartland Brewery 906 7th Ave. Map 12 E3. Upper East Side
281 Lafayette St. 35 Union Square W. pjcarneys.com
Map 4 F3.
21 Club
Map 9 A5.
Sardis 21 W 52nd St. Map 12 F4.
pravdany.com heartlandbrewery.
com 234 W 44th St.
Brother Jimmys BBQ
The Room Map 12 F5.
1485 2nd Ave.
144 Sullivan St. Jade Bar sardis.com
Map 17 B5.
Map 4 D3. Gramercy Park Hotel,
brotherjimmys.com
2 Lexington Ave. Lower Midtown
Thom Bar Map 9 A4. Uptown Lounge
60 Thompson Hotel, gramercypark 230 Fifth 1576 Third Ave.
60 Thompson St. hotel.com 230 Fifth Ave. Map 8 F3. Map 17 B3.
Map 4 D4. uptownlounge
Old Town Bar Bookmarks
60thompson.com nyc.com
45 E 18th St. The Library Hotel, 299
Map 8 F5. Madison Ave. Map 9 A1.
Greenwich Upper West Side
Village oldtownbar.com The Campbell
Petes Tavern Apartment Rooftop Bar and
Cielo 129 E 18th St. Grand Central Terminal, Lounge
18 Little W 12th St. Map 9 A5. 15 Vanderbilt Ave. Empire Hotel,
Map 3 B1. petestavern.com Map 9 A1. 44 W 63rd St.
cieloclub.com Map 12 D2.
Rose Bar Upper Midtown empirehotelnyc.com
Employees Only Gramercy Park Hotel,
510 Hudson St. 2 Lexington Ave. Bull and Bear Brooklyn
Map 3 C2. Map 9 A4. Waldorf-Astoria Hotel,
employeesonly gramercypark Lexington Ave. Map 13 A5. Park Slope Ale House
nyc.com hotel.com bullbearbar.com 356 6th Ave at 5th St.
310  TRAVELERS NEEDS

SHOPPING
Visitors to New York inevitably include
shopping in their plans. The city is
the consumer capital of the world: a
shoppers paradise and a constant source
of entertainment, with dazzling window
displays and a staggering variety of goods
for sale. Anything can be found here, from
high fashion to rare childrens books,
state-of-the-art electronics, and a
mouthwatering array of exotic food. If you
are looking for a personal hovercraft, read-in-
the-dark eyeglass attachments, a designer
bed for your pet gerbil, or a Wurlitzer jukebox,
this is the city of your dreams. Whether you
have $50,000 or $5, New York is the place to
spend it.

area. The best time

to visit them is just
before one of the
major gift-giving
holidays. Top Button
(www.topbutton.
com) has compre-
hensive sales listings.

Sales
One word youll
come across all over
the city, anytime of
the year, is sale. So
check the sale goods
before you pay full
The 1920s-style Henri Bendel store price for any The Bulgari entrance at Hotel Pierre
purchase. The best (see p287)
Best Buys sales are during New Yorks sale
New York is a bargain hunters seasons, which generally run How to Pay
dream, with huge discounts on from June until the end of July Most shops accept major credit
anything from household goods and from December 26 until cards, although there will often
to designer clothes. Some of the February. Look up the local be a minimum purchase price.
best shops are on Orchard papers for ads. Along midtown If you want to use your travelers
Street and Grand Street on the Fifth Avenue youll see signs checks, identification is needed.
Lower East Side, where designer announcing Lost Our Lease Personal checks drawn in
goods are sold at considerably sales. Avoid them, as these another currency will be
lower than the retail price. You signs have been up for years refused. Some stores only take
can find just about every at many shops. Also keep your cash, especially during sales.
imaginable item of clothing eyes peeled for Sample Sales,
here, in addition to tableware, where the top designers sell
shoes, home furnishings, and to the public the sample outfits Opening Hours
electronics. Some shops in this they have created to show Most shops are open from
area are closed on Saturday store buyers. Sample sales 10am to 6pm, Monday to
the Jewish Sabbath but are occur at Saturday. Many
usually open all day Sunday. different department
Another great area for fashion locations stores are
bargain hunters is the Garment throughout the open through
District, roughly between Sixth city, and are Sunday, and
and Eighth avenues from 30th generally not until 9pm
to 40th Street. The main hub, advertised, so at least two
Seventh Avenue, was renamed your best bet is nights a
Fashion Avenue in the early to keep a look- week. Lunch
1970s. Several designers and out for signs hours (noon
manufacturers have announcing to 2:30pm),
showrooms here, some of sample sales, Saturdays, sales,
which are open to the public. particularly on and holidays
Many of their samples are put Fifth Avenue will be the
up for sales, announced on and on most crowded
notices posted around the Broadway. Designer dress at a New York sale times.
 SHOPPING  311

Taxes clothes and gifts at

The New York City sales tax
is 8.875 percent, although
clothing and shoes under
$55 are exempt. However,
sales tax will be waived if the
goods are shipped home.
Shopping Tours
If you dread braving the
stores alone, shopping tours
are a good, reasonably priced
option. Apart from the main
department stores, you could
visit private designer show-
rooms, auction houses, or
fashion shows. Some operators
will customize tours to suit
your requirements.
Window displays at Bloomingdales (see p183)
Department Stores
and Malls
Most of the large and best
department stores are located
in midtown Manhattan. Explore
them at your leisure, since all
these stores tend to be enormous, Bendel, everything from
with a great range of goods. If
possible, avoid weekends and
vacation times, when the
crowds can be overwhelming.
Prices are often high, but it is
possible to find some bargains
during sales.
Stores such as Saks Fifth
Avenue, Bloomingdales, and
Macys provide a diverse and
extraordinary range of shopping and women, with an emphasis
services, including actually
shopping for you.
One of the biggest malls in
Manhattan is the Shops at
Columbus Circle in the Time
Warner Center. Its stores include can openers to antiques.
Williams-Sonoma, Coach, and
Hugo Boss. Century 21 is a
legendary Downtown depart-
ment store selling designer
discount prices.
Barneys New
York, favored by
young professionals,
specializes in excellent,
though expensive,
designer clothes.
Luxurious, elegant,
and understated,
Bergdorf Goodman
sells contemporary
clothes by European
designers at high A magnicent display oering household goods
prices. The mens store
is across the street. with service to match. It sells
Bloomingdales (see p183) stunning designerwear for
is the Hollywood film star adults as well as children.
of the department stores,
with many eye-catching Directory
displays and seductive goods.
New Yorkers young and Shopping Tours
old come here to seek
Elegant Tightwad
out the latest in fashion. Tel (800) 808-4614.
The linen and fine china
departments have Shop Gotham
a reputation for quality, Tel (866) 795-4200 or (212) 209-
and the gourmet food 3370 to purchase tour tickets.
section features a shop
devoted entirely to Department Stores
caviar. Extensive and Malls
shopping services and Barneys New York
amenities include a 660 Madison Ave. Map 13 A3.
noted restaurant, Le Tel (212) 826-8900.
Train Bleu, with its
Bergdorf Goodman
view of the Queensboro
Bridge. There is also a SoHo
754 5th Ave. Map 12 F3.
branch on Broadway. Though
Tel (212) 753-7300.
much smaller than the main Bloomingdales
store, it stocks a similar selection 1000 3rd Ave. Map 13 A3.
of luxury goods. Tel (212) 705-2000.
At the exclusive Henri 504 Broadway. Map 4 E4.
Tel (212) 729-5900.
the Art Deco jewels to beautiful Century 21
handmade shoes is displayed 22 Cortland St. Map 1 C2.
as a priceless work of art. The Tel (212) 227-9092.
store, laid out in a series of
1920s-style boutiques, sells an Henri Bendel
712 5th Ave. Map 12 F4.
excellent range of innovative
Tel (212) 247-1100.
womens fashions.
Lord & Taylor is renowned Lord & Taylor
for its classic and much more 424 5th Ave. Map 8 F1.
conservative fashions for men Tel (212) 391-3344.
Macys
on US designers. 151 W 34th St. Map 8 E2.
Macys, the self-proclaimed Tel (212) 695-4400.
largest store in the world (see
p1367), has 10 floors selling Saks Fifth Avenue
everything imaginable from 611 5th Ave. Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 753-4000.
Saks Fifth Avenue, known for Shops at Columbus Circle
style and elegance, has long Time Warner Center. Map 12 D3.
been considered one of the Tel (212) 823-6300.
citys best department stores,
312  TRAVELERS NEEDS

New Yorks Best: Shopping

In a city where you can literally shop 24 hours a day,
the best plan is to shop the way New Yorkers do: by
neighborhood. Each has its own character and
specialties. Here are highlights of the best shopping
districts where they are and what you will find in
each. If time is very tight, head for one of the huge
department stores (see p311) or, if window shopping
is your preference, stroll along Fifth Avenue, home to
Greenwich Village and the
Manhattans most glittering stores (see opposite). For
Meatpacking District
great bargains in a truly ethnic area, try the Lower Quaint, eclectic, and antique
East Side. choices in the Village, and
gourmands will enjoy
SoHo the myriad specialty Theater
The area bordered by Sixth food stores. Meander District
Avenue, Lafayette, Houston, over to Meatpacking
and Canal streets is bustling District for high
with antiques, crafts, and fashion shopping
clothes from designer (see pp11415).
flagships. Weekend
brunchtime gallery-hopping Chelsea and the
is very popular. Cross Broad- Garment District
way to NoLIta for even
trendier, cutting-edge
fashion (see pp1067).
er
iv

Gramercy and
n R

the Flatiron
dso

District
Hu

East Village and Greenwich

Lower East Side Village
Explore around St
Marks Place for shoes,
avant-garde fashions, East
and ethnic goods Village
(see pp12021). Bargains SoHo and
are becoming harder TriBeCa
to find in the Lower
East Side, but trendy
options are increasing Lower East Side,
(see pp967). Chinatown, and
Seaport
and the Little Italy
Lower Civic
Manhattan Center

Herald Square and the Garment District

South Street Seaport
This is a browsers paradise of crafts,
gifts, souvenirs, books, and antiques with
a seafaring connection (see pp845).
Here you will find Macys, a store that occupies
an entire block. The surrounding area (especially
Seventh Avenue) is the fashion wholesale center
with major discounts during sales but some
stores accept only cash (see pp1345).
 SHOPPING  313

Upper West Side

Central
Park

Columbus and
Amsterdam avenues
These are New York hot spots
for exclusive but trendy
Upper East Side
designer clothes, quirky
antiques, esoterica, and upscale
gift shops (see pp21415).
See inset
map

Upper
Midtown
Lower
Midtown
r
ve

Madison and Lexington avenues

Ri

Shoppers come here for classics in art and

st
Ea

antiques, designer clothes, and shoes.

The Whitney Museum shop is nearby
(see pp1867).

Fifth Avenues Prestigious Stores

0 kilometers 2 (see pp17072)
0 miles 1
WE W
ST
WE 56
TH 57
ST
55 ST
Tiffanys TH
TH ST
ST
W Harry EA Trump Tower
ES ST
T Winston
UE

54 56
TH TH
EA
ST
EN

ST
E

ST
RE RE
U

W ET 55
ES TH ET
N

T
AV

53
VE

RD EA ST
ST ST RE
A

RE 54 ET
ET TH
WE ST
ST
52
ND
Fifth Ave-
ST
53rd St

EA
ST
H

52
FT

ND
Cartier
N

EA
FI

ST ST
O

51
IS

ST
D

EA ST
ST
A

Saks Fifth 50
M

Avenue TH
ST

East 57th and 59th streets From Saks to Tiffanys Leading

Exclusive antiques and high fashion are found retailers have their flagship store on Harry Winston
on 57th Street and be sure not to miss world-famous Fifth Avenue. (see p320)
Bloomingdales (see p183).
314  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Memorabilia
New York Originals At Lincoln Center, the
New York is a city where just about any kind of shop, no Metropolitan Opera Shop
matter how esoteric, will always attract customers. Dozens has records, cards, librettos,
of tiny shops scattered around the city specialize in unusual small binoculars, and many
merchandise, from butterflies and bones to traditional Tibetan other opera-related items.
For theater fans, everything
treasures and shamrock sprigs from Ireland. Coming across from scripts and vocal scores
these in some tucked-away corner is what makes shopping in to CDs can be found at One
New York such an entertaining and invigorating experience. Shubert Alley. For thousands
of rare and classic film stills and
posters visit Jerry Ohlingers
Specialty Shops heart-shaped, including pillows, Movie Material Store on
For beautiful brass, onyx, and soap, and jewelry. If you are 253 W 35th Street.
pewter chess sets, and the artistic, or if you wish to buy The Carnegie Hall Shop
opportunity to play a decent a present for someone who is, carries musically themed cards,
game, make a move to the visit Blick Art Materials, which T-shirts, games, posters, tote
Chess Forum. For every type of stocks everything you could bags, and much more. For
pen, the Fountain Pen Hospital need, from easels and brushes something truly original and
stocks an enormous range, to modeling clay. Forbidden very American, be sure to
including such names as Mont Planet is a science-fiction visit Lost City Arts and Urban
Blanc and Scheaffer. For those megastore with everything Archaeology in SoHo. Between
with a bit more energy, Blades from comics to models for these two shops, youll unearth
sells and rents out skates and the true fan. all sorts of relics from Americas
also the trendiest skateboards Carrying anything one could past, from Barbie Doll lunch
plus all the safety equipment. want for their NYC apartment, boxes to salvaged furniture,
If youre looking for different Gracious Home is chock-full including antique, claw
or unusual buttons, a visit to of well-made goods, from footed bath tubs.
Tender Buttons, which stocks Caswell-Massey Ltd. soaps to
millions, is a must. Whether you the trendiest lighting fixtures.
want enamel, wood, or Navajo This Upper West Side staple is a Toys, Games,
silver buttons or perhaps want store one can easily get lost in. and Gadgets
your own buttons made into Guitar gurus will want to For childrens gifts, dont
cuff links or earrings here visit Rudys, Matt Umanovs, or miss the legendary F.A.O.
youll find just what you want Sam Ashs guitar shop. Not only Schwarz. This is a massive
and more. Trash and Vaudeville is there a chance youll bump store crammed with luxury
has been supplying punk and into Eric Clapton or Lou Reed toy cars, enormous stuffed
Goth gear to New Yorkers for both have their guitars made animals, and every kind of
decades and is the HQ of Astor in this area but youll find electronic toy imaginable.
Place fashion. the widest and best choice of There are shoulder-to-shoulder
Leo Kaplan Ltd. is the place musical instruments in the city. crowds at Christmas, when you
to go if you are a keen collector Bibliophiles will find a range might have to line up to get in.
of paperweights. C.O. Bigelow, of gifts in both the New York The Childrens General
which dates back to 1838, is the Public Library Shop (see p148) Store is one of the citys
countrys oldest apothecary. (such as bookends of the lions smarter toy stores, with a
Today the shop attracts guarding the main entrance) focus on educational and
fashionistas thanks to its fine, and the Morgan Library classic goods, while a trip to the
hard-to-find beauty products. Shop (see pp1667), including American Girl Place doll store
The New York Firefighters bookmarks and writing paper. could entertain a youngster all
Friend sells an intriguing range University logos and college day, with options such as a caf,
of items related to firefighting, colors dominate the many photo studio, and hair salon.
including toy fire engines, knickknacks and accessories Myplasticheart is a
firemens jackets, badges, for sale at The Yale Club gift quirky shop selling a dizzying
stuffed toy dalmatians (a breed shop and The Princeton Club. assortment of designer toys
of dogs historically associated Weisburg Religious and limited-edition collectibles.
with the firefighting service), Articles carries one of the Red Caboose is for fans of
and a wide selection of T-shirts, largest selections of Jewish model railways. On three
including a popular one with religious items in the city. floors, the Toys R Us flagship
FDNY (Fire Department New The Cathedral Shop at the glass building on Broadway
York) on one side and Keep Cathedral of St. John the Divine is the largest toy store in the
back 200 feet on the other. on Amsterdam Avenue is a world, with a 60-ft (20-m)
For the true romantic who large store selling books, ferris wheel.
wants to impress, everything artworks, herbs, jewelry, and Dinosaur Hill on Second
sold by Only Hearts is religious items made locally. Avenue offers handmade

puppets and toys, mobiles,
and beautifully made childrens
clothes. Its expensive but worth
it. Since 1848, Hammacher
Schlemmer have been
encouraging shoppers to
buy gadgets for home, office,
and recreation that they didnt
know they wanted. The quirky
Kidrobot in SoHo draws both
kids and collectors for its urban,
cartoony action figures
and memorabilia.
Museum Shops
Some of New Yorks best
souvenirs can be found in the
citys many museum shops. In
addition to the usual range of
books, posters, and cards, there
are reproductions of the
exhibits on display, including
jewelry and sculpture. The
Museum of Arts and Design
(see p151) has an excellent
selection of American crafts
as well as original works for
sale. In addition to realistic
model dinosaurs, rubber
animals, minerals, and rocks, the
American Museum of Natural
History (see pp21819) has a
variety of recycled products and
earth-awareness gifts, which
The Best of the Imports
New York is a massive
melting pot of ethnic groups,
nationalities, and cultures. Many
ethnic shops specialize in food
or goods of a particular group.
Alaska on Madison has a
collection of Eskimo art and
Northwest prints and hangings.
Situated in Chelsea Market,
Imports from Marrakesh is
jam-packed with inviting home-
decor pieces that are custom-
made by Moroccan artisans. The
Chinese Porcelain Company
sells exquisite Chinese decorative
arts and furniture. Pearl River
Mart has been a staple for Asian
goods for 30 years, from novelty
items to tea and tote-bags, and
Himalayan Crafts and Tours
stocks everything from paintings
to Tibetan rugs. Sweet Life, on
the Lower East Side, is a tiny,
old-fashioned candy shop with
delicacies from around the world.
Things Japanese has beautifully
made crafts and unusual books.
include posters, bags, and
T-shirts with environmental
messages, and a large selection
of Native American handicrafts.
There is also a kids shop with
reasonably priced items such
as shell sets, magnets, and toys.
The Asia Society Bookstore
and Gift Shop (see p189) has a
striking selection of Oriental
prints, posters, art books, toys,
and jewelry. Items related to
interior design are offered at
the Cooper-Hewitt (see p188).
One of New Yorks largest
collections of Jewish ceremonial
objects, including menorahs
and Kiddush cups, books, and
jewelry, is found in the small
shop at the Jewish Museum
(see p188).
For reproduction prints of
famous paintings and other
exquisite gifts a visit to the
Metropolitan Museum of
Art (see pp1929) gift shop
is a must. There is also an
enormous book department
and a childrens gift shop. The
traditional American Folk Art
Museum (see p173) prides itself
on its American country crafts,
including wooden toys, quilts,
and weathervanes, which are
mostly original. Works by
Surma is a Ukrainian general
store that sells hand-painted
eggs and linens. Common
Ground sells Native American
arts, and Astro Gallery of
Gems has a large collection of
jewelry and mineral specimens
from Africa and Asia. Nearby,
Chinatown is packed with shops
selling everything from souvenirs
to leather goods, all at low prices.
Addresses
Alaska on Madison
937 Madison Ave.
Map 17 A1.
Tel (212) 879-1782.
Astro Gallery of Gems
417 5th Ave.
Map 8 F2.
Tel (212) 889-9000.
Chinese Porcelain Company
475 Park Ave.
Map 13 A3.
Tel (212) 838-7744.
SHOPPING  315
craftspeople who currently
have pieces on display in
the museum are also sold.
The Museum of the City
of New York (see p201),
specializes in pictures of old
New York as well as books and
unique prints and posters. The
Museum of Modern Art/MoMA
Design Store (see pp1747) has a
highly praised selection of
innovative home furnishings,
toys, and kitchenware
inspired by international
designers such as Frank Lloyd
Wright and Le Corbusier.
For a selection of nautical
items, including charts,
maps, model ships, and
scrimshaw, go to the South
Street Seaport Museum
Shops (see pp847). The
Whitney Museums Shop
(see pp2023) stocks
American-made items,
including jewelry, wooden
toys, books, and posters
complementing current
exhibitions. The Museum
of Jewish Heritage (see p79)
has a gift shop with an unusual
array of gifts, souvenirs, and
educational material about
Jewish life. Open to ticketed
visitors only.
Common Ground
55 W 16th St.
Map 8 F5.
Tel (212) 989-4178.
Himalayan
Crafts and Tours
2007 Broadway.
Map 11 C1.
Tel (212) 787-8500.
Imports from Marrakesh
88 10th Ave. Map 7 C5.
Tel (212) 675-9700.
Pearl River Mart
477 Broadway. Map 4 E4.
Tel (212) 431-4770.
Sweet Life
63 Hester St. Map 5 B4.
Tel (212) 598-0092.
Surma
11 E 7th St. Map 4 F2.
Tel (212) 477-0729.
Things Japanese
127 E 60th St.
Map 13 A3.
Tel (212) 371-4661.
316  TRAVELERS NEEDS

DIRECTORY
Specialty Shops The Princeton Club Toys, Games, Asia Society
15 W 43rd St. and Gadgets Bookstore and
Blick Art Materials Gift Shop
Map 8 F1.
15 Bond St. Map 4 F2. American Girl Place 725 Park Ave.
Tel (212) 596-1200.
Tel (212) 533-2444. 609 Fifth Ave. Map 13 A1.
Rudys Map 12 F5. Tel (212) 288-6400.
Blades Tel (877) 247-5223.
120 W 72nd St. 169 W 48th St.
Cooper-Hewitt
Map 12 D1. Map 12 E5. Childrens General 2 E 91st St.
Tel (888) 552-5233. Tel (212) 391-1699. Store Map 16 F2.
One of two branches. 168 E 91st St. Tel (212) 849-8400.
Tender Buttons
Map 17 A2.
The Cathedral Shop 143 E 62nd St. Jewish Museum
Tel (212) 426-4479.
Cathedral of St. John the Map 13 A2. 1109 5th Ave.
Divine, 1047 Amsterdam Tel (212) 758-7004. Dinosaur Hill Map 16 F2.
Ave. Map 20 E4. 306 E 9th St, 2nd Ave. Tel (212) 423-3200.
Trash and Vaudeville Map 4 F1.
Tel (212) 316-7540.
4 St. Marks Pl. Tel (212) 473-5850. Metropolitan
Chess Forum Map 5 A4. Museum of Art
219 Thompson St. Tel (212) 982-3590. F.A.O. Schwarz 5th Ave at 82nd St.
Map 4 D3. 767 5th Ave. Map 16 F4.
Tel (212) 475-2369. Weisburg Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 535-7710.
Religious Articles Tel (212) 644-9400.
C.O. Bigelow Museum of the
45 Essex St. Hammacher
414 Avenue of the City of New York
Map 5 B4. Schlemmer 5th Ave at 103rd St.
Americas. Map 4 D1.
Tel (212) 674-1770. 147 E 57th St. Map 21 C5.
Tel (212) 533-2700.
The Yale Club Map 13 A3. Tel (212) 534-1672.
Fountain Pen Tel (212) 421-9000.
50 Vanderbilt Ave. Museum of
Hospital One of two branches.
10 Warren St. Map 13 A5. Jewish Heritage
Tel (212) 661-2070. Kidrobot 18 1st Place,
Map 1 C1.
126 Prince St. Battery Park City.
Tel (212) 964-0580.
Memorabilia Map 4 E3. Map 1 B4.
Forbidden Planet Tel (212) 966-6688. Tel (646) 437-4200.
840 Broadway. Carnegie Hall Shop
Myplasticheart Museum of
Map 4 E1. 881 7th Ave.
210 Forsyth St. Modern Art/MoMA
Tel (212) 473-1576. Map 12 E3.
Map 5 A3. Design Store
Tel (212) 903-9610. 44 W 53rd St.
Gracious Home Tel (646) 290-6866.
1992 Broadway. Jerry Ohlingers Map 12 F4.
Map 12 D1.
Red Caboose Tel (212) 767-1050.
Movie Material Store 23 W 45th St.
Tel (212) 231-7800. 253 W 35th St. South Street Seaport
Map 12 F5.
Leo Kaplan Ltd. Map 8 D2. Tel (212) 575-0155. Museum Shops
114 E 57th St. Tel (212) 989-0869. 12 Fulton St.
Toys R Us Map 2 D2.
Map B A3.
Lost City Arts 1514 Broadway, Tel (212) 748-8600.
Tel (212) 355-7212.
18 Cooper Square. Times Square.
Morgan Library Shop Map 4 F2. Map 8 E2. Whitney Museums
Madison Ave at 36th St. Tel (646) 366-8800. Shop
Tel (212) 375-0500.
943 Madison Ave.
Map 9 A2.
Metropolitan Museum Shops Map 13 A1.
Tel (212) 685-0008.
Opera Shop Tel (212) 570-3676.
New York Metropolitan Opera Museum of
Firefighters Friend House, Lincoln Center, Arts and Design
263 Lafayette St. 136 W 65th St. 40 W 53rd St. Map 12 F4.
Map 4 F3. Tel (212) 956-3535.
Map 11 C2.
Tel (212) 226-3142.
Tel (212) 580-4090. American Folk
New York Public Art Museum
Library Shop One Shubert Alley
45 W 53rd St.
5th Ave at 42nd St. 1 Shubert Alley.
Map 12 F4.
Map 8 F1. Map 12 E5. Tel (212) 265-1040.
Tel (212) 930-0869. Tel (212) 944-4133.
American Museum
Only Hearts Urban Archaeology of Natural History
386 Columbus Ave. 143 Franklin St. W 79th St at Central
Map 15 D5. Map 4 D5. Park W. Map 16 D5.
Tel (212) 724-5608. Tel (212) 431-4646. Tel (212) 769-5100.
 SHOPPING  317

Fashion on its very British look and

offers a stylish array of superbly
Whether youre looking for a secondhand pair of 501s or the tailored fashions. Go to the
kind of ballgown Ivana Trump would be proud to wear, youre high-quality department store
sure to find it in New York. The city is the fashion capital of Bergdorf Goodman Men to
find beautifully made Turnbull
America and an important center of clothing manufacture & Asser shirts and marvelous
and design. New Yorks clothing stores, like its restaurants, suits by Gianfranco Ferr
reflect the citys dramatically different styles and cultures. or Hugo Boss.
To save time its probably best to visit one area at a time Barneys New York has one
and wander from store to store. Alternatively, visit one of of the most comprehensive
mens departments in America,
the major department stores for an excellent selection of
with a truly massive range of
fashion for everyone. clothes and accessories.
Uniqlo, the hip Japanese
American Designers horsey set. For those with a chain known for its modern,
Many American designers sell taste for more experimental well-made casual clothes, has
their creations in boutiques designs, Joan Vass specializes in a flagship store on Fifth Avenue.
within the large department moderately priced but exciting, Go to Burberry Limited if you
stores, or have exclusive shops colorful, and innovative knitwear. are looking for classic British
of their own. One of the most trenchcoats and traditional
famous is Michael Kors, known outdoor wear.
for sophisticated looks that are Discount J. Press sells classic, conser-
classic and comfortable. Designer Clothes vative yet elegant clothes while
The designs of Bill Blass, If youre on the lookout for John Varvatos is famous for
one of the kings of American discount designer clothes, luxurious, sporty designs with
fashion, feature an array of Designer Resale, Encore, and superb detail. Uptown designer
different colors, wild patterns, Michaels sell a wide range. menswear boutiques include
innovative shapes, and a lot Oscar de la Renta, Ungaro, the renowned Beau Brummel
of wit. Liz Claibornes designs and Armani are just some of with a selection of very stylish
are always elegantly simple, the leading labels available. European clothes and Thomas
casual, and reasonably priced, Clothes are either new or worn Pink whose bright colors and
including everything you could but near-perfect. fine fabrics make this store a
possibly need from tennis The designer discount celebrity favorite. Many of these
whites to casual professional emporium Century 21 in Lower mens stores also carry striking
wear for women. Manhattan sells European and womens fashions. The Hickey
Marc Jacobs, known for his American designer fashions Freeman store on Fifth Avenue
sportswear, has his own label discounted up to an amazing sells a wide range of mens
and store in Greenwich Village. 75 percent off regular retail traditional clothing.
James Galanos is an exclusive prices. Bustling Union Square
designer for the rich and is flush with shopping options,
famous, making one-of-a-kind including Nordstrom Rack, Childrens Clothes
couture clothes, and Betsey the discount offshoot of the In addition to an excellent
Johnson is popular with women famous Nordstrom department selection within the large
able to wear figure-hugging store. Loehmanns offers department stores, there are
fashions in fabulous fabrics. discounted clothes, and its several shops around the city
In the past two decades, the place to shop if you want that sell childrens clothing
Donna Karan has become a top-of-the-line fashions at exclusively. A good example is
name that appears everywhere. unbelievable discounts. Bonpoint, which has a world
Her simple, stylish, and great- of French-style charm. Also
looking designs work for stocked with delightful outfits
everything from work-out Mens Clothes and gifts is Pink Olive, in the
clothes to black tie wear. Calvin In the center of midtown, East Village.
Klein now has his name on youll find two of the citys GapKids and BabyGap
place settings and sunglasses most highly regarded mens- shops, often in the Gap shops,
in addition to underwear, jeans, wear stores: Brooks Brothers have comfortable, long-lasting
and a whole range of clothes. and Paul Stuart. Brooks Brothers cotton overalls, sweat pants,
He is renowned for comfortable, is something of a New York denim jackets, sweatshirts, and
sensuous, and well-fitting institution, famous for its leggings. Actress Phoebe Cates
as well as very hip looks. Ralph traditional, conservative has opened a hip kids clothing
Lauren is very well-known for clothing such as smart button- store on Madison Avenue called
his aristocratic and expensive down shirts and Chinos. Theres Blue Tree. Space Kiddets has
clothes, a look favored by the an ultra-conservative womens everything from booties to
exclusive and posh Ivy League, line too. Paul Stuart prides itself Western wear.
 318  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Womens Clothes
fashions, including Betsey of velvet bell-bottoms or
Womens fashion is subject to Johnsons shop, with her go-go boots youve always
design trends, and New York whimsical, relatively dreamed of having. A more
stores keep pace with them inexpensive designs. Calvin mainstream shop is The Gap,
all. Most of the citys most Klein now has a store on a chain store selling lots of
fashionable shops are found the East Side, specializing in moderately priced, casual and
in the midtown area around ultra-hip, casual fashions. comfortable clothes for men,
Madison and Fifth Avenues. French Connection is known women, and children.
These include some of the for its affordable separates, Sotto and Notto/Nolita
major department stores (see both casual and for the office. rival Madison Avenue for
p311), which stock a range of Scoop is the place to get a designer boutiques specializing
American designers, including little black dress. in expensive but interesting
Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, The villages the East Village clothes the fashions here are
and Bill Blass. in particular are the best far more avant-garde. The
Leading international places to go for secondhand playful boutique Kirna Zabete,
names such as Chanel and clothing and 1950s rock n roll for example, features a unique
Valentino also have shops gear, with ever-changing range of clothes as well as
here, as does one of the interesting shops run by new accessories. Youll also find
outstanding American and young designers and art Yohji Yamamoto in this
designers, Michael Kors. school graduates. For a range of area, among other exclusive
There is also a handful of affordable, well-cut clothes from stores. Comme des Garons
popular ready-to-wear stores, classic to casual, try APC, and in the Garment District sells
including Ann Taylor, which for stylish, high-end designer minimalist Japanese chic.
is much favored by young, clothes head to Kirna Zabete. Cynthia Rowley is a
busy professionals looking for No Relation Vintage carries prominent New York
stylish, comfortable clothing. a huge selection of secondhand designer who sells flirty
Banana Republic is a Fifth Levis as well as hundreds of fashions for women and What
Avenue crowd-magnet that denim and leather jackets. Comes Around Goes Around
sells sleek, smart casualwear Screaming Mimis is where on West Broadway is the place
and blue jeans cut in the you could unearth that pair to go for vintage jeans.
trendiest styles.
Right at the heart of this
area stands the pink-marbled
Size Chart
Trump Tower, which houses a For Australian sizes follow the British and American conversions.
selection of exclusive shops. Childrens clothing
Madison Avenue is packed American 23 45 66x 78 10 12 14 16 (size)
with designers for the smart British 23 45 67 89 1011 12 14 14+ (years)
set, who have everything you Continental 23 45 67 89 1011 12 14 14+ (years)
could ever need, including Childrens shoes
Ralph Lauren; Givenchy, American 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 2
British 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 2
who sells show-stopping Continental 24 25 27 28 29 30 32 33 34
formal gowns at phenomenal
Womens dresses, coats and skirts
prices; Valentino, who has American 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
classic Italian clothes; and British 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Missoni, who is famous for Continental 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
richly textured sweaters in Womens blouses and sweaters
sumptuous wools and colorful American 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
patterns. Yves St Laurent Rive British 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
Continental 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
Gauche has evening gowns,
one-of-a-kind jackets, silks Womens shoes
American 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
and extravagant blouses, and British 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
beautifully cut pants suits. Continental 36 37 38 39 40 41 44
Sophisticated Italian looks are Mens suits
also available from Italian style American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
kings Giorgio Armani and British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Gianni Versace. Dolce & Continental 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Gabbana sells unique, one-of- Mens shirts
a-kind Italian clothing. Gucci, American 14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18
British 14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18
one of the oldest Italian shops Continental 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45
in America, is only for the
Mens shoes
wealthy and status-conscious. American 7 7 8 8 9 10 11 11
The Upper West Side has British 6 7 7 8 9 10 11 12
many shops competing for Continental 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
attention with contemporary
 SHOPPING  319

DIRECTORY
Discount John Varvatos Betsey Johnson Kirna Zabete
Designer Clothes 122 Spring St. Map 4 E4. 248 Columbus Ave. 477 Broome St.
Tel (212) 965-0700. Map 16 D4. Map 4 F4.
Century 21 Tel (212) 941-9656.
Department Store Tel (212) 362-3364. One
Paul Stuart
22 Cortland St. of several branches. Michael Kors
350 Madison Ave.
Map 1 C2. 790 Madison Ave.
Map 13 A5. Calvin Klein
Tel (212) 227-9092. Map 13 A2.
Tel (212) 682-0320. 654 Madison Ave. Tel (212) 452-4685.
Designer Resale Map 13 A3.
Thomas Pink Missoni
324 E 81st St. Tel (212) 292-9000.
Map 17 B4. 520 Madison Ave. 1009 Madison Ave.
Tel (212) 734-3639. Map 13 A4. Chanel Map 13 A1.
Tel (212) 838-1928. 15 E 57th St. Tel (212) 517-9339.
Encore
Map 12 F3. No Relation Vintage
1132 Madison Ave. Uniqlo
Tel (212) 355-5050. 204 1st Ave.
Map 17 A4. 666 5th Ave.
Tel (212) 879-2850. Map 5 A1.
Map 12 F4. Comme des Garons
Tel (212) 228-5201.
Loehmanns Tel (877) 486-4756. 520 W 22nd St.
101 7th Ave. Map 8 F3. Ralph Lauren
Map 8 E1. Childrens Tel (212) 604-9200. 888 Madison Ave at
Tel (212) 352-0856. Clothes 72nd St. Map 13 A1.
Cynthia Rowley Tel (212) 606-2100.
Michaels Blue Tree 376 Bleecker St.
1041 Madison Ave. Scoop
1283 Madison Ave. Map 3 C2.
Map 17 A5. 475 Broadway (near
Map 17 A2. Tel (212) 242-3803. Spring St).
Tel (212) 737-7273.
Tel (212) 369-2583. Map 4 E4.
Dolce & Gabbana
Nordstrom Rack Tel (212) 925-2886.
60 E 14th St.
Bonpoint 434 W Broadway.
One of three branches.
Map 9 A5 1269 Madison Ave. Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 220-2080. Map 17 A3. Tel (212) 965-8000. Screaming Mimis
Tel (212) 722-7720. 382 Lafayette St.
French Connection Map 4 F2.
Mens Clothes
GapKids/BabyGap 700 Broadway. Tel (212) 677-6464.
Barneys New York 60 W 34th St. Map 8 F2. Map 4 E2.
Valentino
660 Madison Ave. Tel (212) 760-1268. Tel (212) 473-4486.
747 Madison Ave.
Map 13 A3. One of several branches. One of several branches. Map 13 A2.
Tel (212) 826-8900.
Pink Olive The Gap Tel (212) 772-6969.
Beau Brummel 439 E 9th St. 250 W 57th St. What Comes
347 W Broadway.
Map 5 A1. ap 12 D3. Around Goes
Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 780-0036. Tel (212) 315-2250. Around
Tel (212) 219-2666.
One of many branches. 351 W Broadway.
One of several branches. Space Kiddets Map 4 E4.
Bergdorf 26 E 22nd St. Gianni Versace Tel (212) 343-9303.
Goodman Men Map 8 F4. 647 5th Ave.
Yohji Yamamoto
754 5th Ave. Tel (212) 420-9878. Map 12 F4.
103 Grand St.
Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 317-0224. Map 4 E4.
Tel (212) 753-7300. Womens Tel (212) 966-9066.
Clothes Giorgio Armani
Brooks Brothers 760 Madison Ave. Yves St Laurent
346 Madison Ave. Map 9 Ann Taylor Map 13 A2. Rive Gauche
A1. Tel (212) 682-8800.
645 Madison Ave. Tel (212) 988-9191. 855 Madison Ave.
Burberry Limited Map 13 A3. 717 5th Ave. Map 13 A1.
9 E 57th St. Tel (212) 832-2010. Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 517-7400.
Map 12 F3. One of several branches. Tel (212) 207-1902.
Tel (212) 757-3700.
APC Givenchy
Hickey Freeman
131 Mercer St. 710 Madison Ave.
543 Madison Ave.
Map 13 A4. Map 4 E3. Map 13 A1.
Tel (212) 586-6481. Tel (212) 966-9685. Tel (212) 688-4005.

J. Press Banana Republic Gucci

7 E 44th St. 626 5th Ave. 685 5th Ave.
Map 12 F5. Map 12 F4. Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 687-7642. Tel (212) 974-2350. Tel (212) 826-2600.
320  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Accessories
In addition to the following shops, all of the major Manhattan
department stores have extensive accessory departments
stocking a range of hats, gloves, bags, jewelry, watches,
scarves, shoes, and umbrellas.
Jewelry
Midtown Fifth Avenue is
where to find the most dazzling
jewelers. By day, windows glisten
with gems from around the
world; by night they are empty
the jewels safely locked away.
The most sensational shops are
all within a couple of blocks of
one another and include the
museum-like Harry Winston,
which showcases its coveted
jewels from around the world.
Buccellati is well respected for
its innovative Italian creations
and excellent workmanship.
Bulgari has an impressive
collection that ranges in price
from a couple of hundred to
over a million dollars.
Housed in a Renaissance-style
palazzo, Cartier is a jewel in
itself and sells its beautiful
baubles at unthinkable prices.
Tiffany & Co. has 10 floors of
crystal, diamonds, and other
jewels waiting to be packed up
for you and taken away in the
stores signature sky blue boxes.
The Diamond District, a one-
block area on 47th Street
(between Fifth and Sixth
avenues), is lined with shops
displaying hundreds of
thousands of dollars worth of
diamonds, gold, pearls, and
other exotic jewels from around
the world. The largest private
jewelry vendor in the district is
Rafaello and Co. Here, the staff
pride themselves on reading a
customers personal style while
making recommendations.
Hats
New Yorks oldest hat shop is
Worth & Worth, which also has
the largest collection of hats in
the city. You can get anything
here, from original Australian
bush hats to silk toppers, to
slouch hats and boaters.
Suzanne Millinery is the hat-
maker to the stars, as she has
proved very popular with
celebrities such as Ivana Trump
and Whoopi Goldberg. Lids
sells baseball caps in dozens
of varieties, with logos ranging
from sports teams to the
evergreen I HEART NY. For
a wide range of fabulous
headgear, stop by The Hat
Shop, where you can find
everything from classic to
contemporary styles.
Umbrellas
The minute it starts to rain in
New York, hundreds of street
vendors selling umbrellas seem
to sprout like mushrooms. Their
umbrellas, which sell at just a
few dollars, are without doubt
the cheapest in the city, but
unlikely to last much longer
than the downpour itself. For
good-quality umbrellas, youll
find a fine selection of Briggs
of London at Worth & Worth.
There is a wide range of
different sizes, trendy patterns,
and traditional tartans and
stripes at Barneys New York,
and theres always Macys
(see p311) for the usual sizes
and styles. World-famous
Gucci has umbrellas to match
its ties. Subway-themed ones
can be found at the NY Transit
Museum Store.
Handbags and Briefcases
From its convenient location
near Union Square, The Bag
House has been selling a varied
assortment of travel gear and
luggage since 1969. This
neighborhood mainstay carries
one of the citys largest
selections of backpacks,
messenger bags, and luggage
from top brands such as
Victorinox, Zero Halliburton,
Rimowa, The North Face, Eagle
Creek, and many more.
Elsewhere in the city are such
exclusive shops as Bottega
Veneta, and Prada, where
handbags are displayed like
precious art, with prices to
match. Younger and trendier
places include Jeffrey New
York, well respected for its
on-trend designs, and the
stylish Il Bisonte. The in-demand
designer Raf Totengcos soft
suede pastel pouches are found
at TG-170. The Coach Store is
known for its simple, classic
leather handbags. Designer
Kate Spades stylish yet
practical rectangular handbags,
in a plethora of prints and
colors, have become modern
classics, and add a chic touch
to any womans wardrobe.
Jack Spade designs similarly
unique bags for men.
For discount designer
handbags try the legendary
Nordstrom Rack, and for
bargain briefcases from slim
envelopes to thick lawyers
bags, a visit to the Altman
Luggage Company is a must.
Shoes and Boots
Manhattan shoe stores are
famous for their extensive
selections of shoes and boots,
and if you shop around, you
are sure to find what you want
at a reasonable price.
Most of the large department
stores in New York also have
shoe departments where you
can find designer-label shoes
in addition to other brands.
Bloomingdales (see p183)
has a huge womens footwear
department, and Brooks
Brothers has one of the best
selections of traditional mens
shoes in the city.
For both mens and womens
shoes, the most exclusive shops
are around the midtown area.
Ferragamo sells classic styles
crafted in Florence. Go to
Botticelli for whimsical shoe
fashions. For stylish shoes at
decent prices, head for
Sigerson Morrison in Little Italy.
For cowboy boots, head for
Billy Martins. Theres a huge
selection of handmade boots,
from basic, no-frills ropers,
which real American cowboys
wear, to crocodile leather boots
that sell for thousands of dollars.
Billy Martins stocks western garb
 SHOPPING  321

and accessories, so you can flattering heels, at Manolo Lingerie

dress in western gear from head
to toe. For beautiful handcrafted
boots, try E. Vogel Custom
Boots & Shoes.
Sneaker collectors should make
a stop at Alife Rivington Club on
the Lower East Side, which stocks
several hard-to-find styles.
For the best in childrens
shoes, East Side Kids stocks
the trendiest fashions for kids,
while Shoofly has imported
shoes in all styles.
The Jimmy Choo boutique
offers a plethora of sexy, stylish
heels. Popular among Manhattans
chic set are the beautiful
womens shoes, particularly the
Blahnik. Christian Louboutin
rounds out the stiletto
heavyweights. Spains most
popular brand, Camper, has
an airy SoHo store featuring
their signature comfy, funky,
and colorful shoes for women
and men.
For discounted shoes, go to
West 34th Street and West Eight
Street between Fifth and Sixth
avenues, and Orchard Street on
the Lower East Side. The DSW
store, on the third floor of 40 East
14th Street, sells brand-name
shoes and boots at a fraction of
the regular price. Theres also a
branch near Battery Park.
Expensive imports from
Europe, which are sexy yet
elegant, can be found at
La Petite Coquette.
More affordable is
Victorias Secret on 57th
Street or SoHo, which offers
beautifully made lingerie in
satin, silk, and many other
fine fabrics. Henri Bendels
lingerie department offers a
sumptuous array of lingerie,
from naughty to nice. The
Italian La Perla features
seductive lingerie and
undergarments in sensual
fabrics from tulle and
chiffon to satin.

DIRECTORY
Jewelry Umbrellas
Buccellati Barneys New York
810 Madison Ave. See p311.
Map 13 A1.
Gucci
Tel (212) 308-2900.
See p319.
Bulgari NY Transit Museum
730 5th Ave. Map 12 F3.
Store
Tel (212) 315-9000.
Grand Central Terminal.
Cartier Map 9 A1.
653 5th Ave. Map 12 F4. Tel (212) 878-0106.
Tel (212) 753-0111. Worth & Worth
See Hats
Harry Winston
718 5th Ave. Map 12 F3. Handbags and
Tel (212) 245-2000. Briefcases
Rafaello and Co.
Altman Luggage
22 W 47th St. Map 12 F5.
Company
Tel (212) 840-0780.
135 Orchard St. Map 5 A3.
Tiffany & Co Tel (212) 254-7275.
5th Ave. Map 12 F3.
The Bag House
Tel (212) 755-8000.
797 Broadway. Map 4 E1.
Tel (212) 260-0940.
Hats
Il Bisonte
The Hat Shop 120 Sullivan St. Map 4 D4.
120 Thompson St. Tel (212) 966-8773.
Map 4 D3.
Bottega Veneta
Tel (212) 219-1446.
635 Madison Ave. Map 13
Lids A3. Tel (212) 371-5511.
243 W 42nd St. Map 8 E1. The Coach Store
Tel (212) 575-1717.
595 Madison Ave. Map 13
Suzanne Millinery A3. Tel (212) 754-0041.
136 E 61st St. Map 13 A3. Jack Spade
Tel (212) 593-3232. 56 Greene St. Map 4 E4.
Tel (212) 625-1820.
Worth & Worth
45 W 57th St, 6th Floor. Jeffrey New York
Map 12 F3. 449 W 14th St. Map 3 A1.
Tel (212) 265-2887. Tel (212) 206-1272.
Kate Spade E. Vogel Custom
454 Broome St. Map 4 E4. Boots & Shoes
Tel (212) 274-1991. 19 Howard St. Map 4 E5.
Tel (212) 925-2460.
Nordstrom Rack
East Side Kids
60 E 14th St. Map 9 A5.
1298 Madison Ave. Map
Tel (212) 220-2080.
17 A2. Tel (212) 360-5000.
Prada
Ferragamo
49 E 57th St. Map 12 F3.
655 5th Ave. Map 12 F3.
Tel (212) 308-2332.
Tel (212) 759-3822.
TG-170
Jimmy Choo
77 Ludlow St. Map 5 A3.
645 5th Ave. Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 995-8660.
Tel (212) 625-1820.
Shoes and Boots Manolo Blahnik
31 W 54th St. Map 12 F4.
Alife Rivington Club Tel (212) 582-3007.
158 Rivington St. Map 5
B3. Tel (212) 375-8128. Shoofly
42 Hudson St. Map 1 B1.
Billy Martins Tel (212) 406-3270.
220 E 60th St. Map 13 B3.
Sigerson Morrison
Tel (212) 861-3100.
28 Prince St. Map 4 F3.
Botticelli Tel (212) 219-3893.
620 5th Ave. Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 582-6313. Lingerie
Brooks Brothers Henri Bendel
See p319. See p311.
Bloomingdales La Perla
See p311. 93 Greene St. Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 219-0999.
Camper
125 Prince St. Map 4 E3. La Petite Coquette
Tel (212) 358-1842. 51 University Place. Map
4 E1. Tel (212) 473-2478.
Christian Louboutin
Victorias Secret
941 Madison Ave. Map 17
34 E 57th St. Map 12 F3.
A5. Tel (212) 396-1884.
Tel (212) 758-5592.
DSW 591593 Broadway.
40 E 14th St. Map 9 A5. Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 674-2146. Tel (212) 219-3643.
322  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Beauty, Manicures and treats with their treatments.

On Thursdays and Fridays,
Pedicures, and Hair Salons they serve Cosmopolitans
and turn up the music.
You can shop till you drop in New York City and when Experience the ultimate in
you do, rest assured that rejuvenation (and a heavenly foot hand and nail care at Sweet
massage) is just around the corner. There are plenty of well- Lily Natural Nail Spa &
stocked beauty stores, manicure and pedicure specialists, as Boutique. The range includes
well as sleek hair salons. Many of the manicurists and salons an intoxicating blend of warm
milk and almond oil for your
cater to New Yorkers and their hectic schedules, so they often hands, and a moisturizing
accept same-day appointments that can easily be fitted in honey walnut mask with a
between rounds of sightseeing and shopping. After a pamper honey walnut manicure.
session or two (or three ), youll be ready to hit the shops The hot lavender cream
again, this time with the prettiest toes and silkiest hair around. manicure includes a wonderful
conditioning treatment for
cuticles that contains tea tree
Beauty Stores For good-quality makeup that and citrus oil. The boutique is
The French-owned Sephora stands the test of time, visit not just for adults, as there is
is a cosmetics megastore that SoHos stylish Make Up for Ever, also a manicure for little girls:
offers its shoppers row upon which stocks everything from the Little Miss Mani includes
row of beauty products, from liquid face foundations and a choice of nail art.
skin cleansers to cosmetics creamy lipsticks, to sparkling
and fragrances, and, thankfully, body powders. Head to earthy
a no-pressure sales staff. For Origins and select from their Hair Salons
all-natural essences and plethora of plant-based lotions, If youre in the mood for a
products, try Erbe (herbs in an antioxidant moisturizer new hair do, or just want to
Italian), a soothing sanctuary made with white tea, and body refresh your current cut, try
with a plethora of hypo- creams sensitive enough for one of New York Citys cutting-
allergenic products, all made a babys skin. British beauty edge hair salons.
with fresh herbs and free maven Nicky Kinnaird has The stylists at the downtown
from mineral oils, animal opened her first outlet of Arrojo Studio will update your
products, waxes, synthetic Space.NK in SoHo. The shop style, so that you walk out of
fragrances, or dyes. The royal also offers beauty services. the salon looking as hip as they
jelly nutrient moisturizer and Most of New Yorks large do. Arrojo colorists are also top-
Pennywort exfoliating cream department stores, including notch, and the salon offers
are popular choices. Bloomingdales, Lord & Taylor, a wide range of exellent
The high-ceilinged MAC Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys color treatments. Follow the
Cosmetics store is always New York, and Macys offer celebrities, and get your hair
busy. Their face powders, well-stocked makeup counters. cut, styled, and/or colored by
particularly the Studio Fix line, stylist Frdric Fekkai or one
are unsurpassed. The promise of his associates at the chic
of creamy Swedish skin (at a Manicures Frdric Fekkai Beaut de
reasonable price) lures shoppers and Pedicures Provence. This top salon is
to FACE Stockholm, where Budget-minded Downtown very much a cut above the rest.
they stock natural, botanical trendsetters flock to the East Korean stylist Younghee
skin products plus lipstick and Villages Galleria Nail Salon, Kim, formerly of Vidal Sassoon,
nail polish in a rainbow of one of the neighborhoods offers hip cuts and colors, as
colors. Since 1851, Kiehls most popular destinations for well as hair spa treatments
has been creating cleansers, inexpensive spa services. As well and thermal conditioning,
toners, balms, and masques as manicures and pedicures, at her eponymous hair salon,
in purposefully utilitarian you can have waxing and Younghee Salon in TriBeCa.
packaging as the natural browse hard-to-find makeup Oprah Winfrey and Madonna
ingredients speak for lines. Eves may look somewhat are just two of the many
themselves. bland and institutional, but celebs who have made the
The nature-friendly Fresh appearances can be deceiving. trek to Garren Salon, located
sells fragrant body creams and Their long-lasting manicures in the suitably swish Sherry-
fruity perfume. Sabon sells a and pedicures are top-notch. Netherland Hotel. Set in a
luxurious range of bath and Dashing Diva not only offers classy, sun-flooded loft, the
beauty products that are 100 excellent manicures and Aveda Institute offers superb
percent natural and irresistibly pedicures at a bargain price cuts, colors, and scalp massages.
scented. Soaps can be bought (starting at $10). The whole Pick up one of their plant-based
by the pound here, and they experience is made all the more beauty and bath products. The
are gift-wrapped for free. alluring, however, as they offer institute also offers the

opportunity to receive a
discount haircut by one of
the trainee hairdressers. A
great choice for men is La Boite
A Coupe, whose clientele
includes many advertising
and media personalities.
Moroccan-French stylist
Laurent De Louya has been
cutting hair here since 1972.
Situated in the heart of
Koreatown, Oz Hair NYC
specializes in Asian hair
treatments, including scalp
treatments, hair aromatherapy,
and effective Japanese
Beauty Stores
Barneys New York
660 Madison Ave.
Map 13 A3.
Tel (212) 826-8900.
Bloomingdales
1000 3rd Ave.
Map 13 B3.
Tel (212) 705-2000.
Bloomingdales SoHo
504 Broadway.
Map 4 E4.
Tel (212) 729-5900.
Erbe
196 Prince St.
Map 4 D3.
Tel (212) 966-1445.
FACE Stockholm
10 Columbus Circle.
Map 12 D3.
Tel (212) 823-9415.
110 Prince St, SoHo.
Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 966-9110.
Fresh
57 Spring St at Lafayette St.
Map 4 F4.
Tel (212) 925-0099.
One of five branches.
Kiehls
109 3rd Ave.
Map 9 B5.
Tel (212) 677-3171.
Lord & Taylor
424 5th Ave.
Map 8 F1.
Tel (212) 391-3344.
MAC Cosmetics
113 Spring St.
Map 4 E4.
Tel (212) 334-4641.
SHOPPING  323
straightening. Head to the cuts and colors. Toni & Guy,
lovely TwoDo Salon, where a premier hair salon from
you can get an expert cut and the UK, is renowned for its
color amid a rustic, colorful consistently good cuts. The
decor of fresh flowers and NYC salon is the US training
brick walls hung with headquarters, where creative
paintings by local artists. stylists offer the boldest cuts
Styling stalwart Vidal around. Toni & Guy colorists
Sassoon is still going strong. have also been lauded for their
Visit the elegant downtown tinting and highlighting skill.
salon on Fifth Avenue where For more great cuts and
accomplished stylists and colors, try the hip favorites
colorists all of whom have Antonio Prieto and Bumble
gone through the companys & Bumble, the refined John
rigorous training turn out Masters Organics, and the
impeccable, eye-catching elite Oscar Blandi.
DIRECTORY
Macys Galleria Nail Salon John Masters
151 W 34th St. 520 E 11th St #A. Organics
Map 8 E2. Map 5 B1. 77 Sullivan St near
Tel (212) 695-4400. Tel (212) 387-8491. Broome St. Map 4 D4.
Tel (212) 343-9590.
Make Up for Ever Sweet Lily Natural
8 E 12th St. Nail Spa & Boutique Oscar Blandi
Map 9 A5. 222 W Broadway, 545 Madison Ave.
Tel (212) 941-9337. between N Moore & Map 13 A4.
Franklin sts. Tel (212) 421-9800.
Origins
Map 4 E5. Oz Hair NYC
175 5th Ave at 23rd St.
Tel (212) 925-5441. 2 W 32nd St, 2nd Floor.
Map 8 F4.
Tel (212) 677-9100. Map 8 F2.
Hair Salons Tel (212) 967-8282.
Sabon
93 Spring St. Antonio Prieto Toni & Guy
Map 4 E4. 127 W 20th St. 673 Madison Ave,
Tel (212) 925-0742. Map 8 F5. Suite 2 at 61st St.
One of three branches. Tel (212) 255-3741. Map 13 A3.
Tel (212) 702-9771.
Saks Fifth Avenue Arrojo Studio
180 Varick St. TwoDo Salon
611 5th Ave.
Map 4 D3. 210 W 82nd St, between
Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 242-7786. Broadway & Amsterdam.
Tel (212) 753-4000.
Map 15 C4.
Aveda Institute
Sephora Tel (212) 787-1277.
233 Spring St.
555 Broadway.
Map 4 D4. Vidal Sassoon
Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 807-1492. 32 W 18th St.
Tel (212) 625-1309. Map 8 F5.
One of several branches. La Boite A Coupe Tel (212) 229-2200.
57 W 18th St, Suite 800.
Space.NK Younghee Salon
Map 12 F4.
99 Greene St, near 64 N Moore St.
Tel (212) 246-2097.
Spring St. Map 4 D5.
Map 4 E4. Bumble & Bumble Tel (212) 334-3770.
Tel (212) 941-9200. 415 13th St, near 9th Ave.
Map 3 B1.
Manicure and Tel (212) 521-6500.
Pedicures
Frdric Fekkai
Dashing Diva Beaut de Provence
41 E 8th St. 712 5th Ave, 4th Floor.
Map 4 E2. Map 12 F3.
Tel (212) 673-9000. Tel (212) 753-9500.
Eve Garren Salon
55 W 8th St. 781 5th Ave.
Map 4 D2. Map 12 F3.
Tel (212) 807-8054. Tel (212) 841-9400.
324  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Books and Music
As the publishing capital of America, its not surprising that
New York has the countrys best selection of bookstores. These
range from vast general interest stores to hundreds of esoteric
bookstores specializing in everything from sci-fi to suspense,
selling new books and old. Music lovers will also find sounds for
all tastes at reasonable prices, plus thousands of rare recordings.
General Interest
Bookstores
One of the best-known New
York bookstores for prices as
well as selection of titles is
Barnes & Noble on Fifth Avenue,
reputedly the citys largest
bookstore and packed high
with over three million books on
every imaginable subject. There
are branches all over the city,
plus the sales annex across the
street, with amazing bargains.
Several blocks away is the main
branch of New Yorks famous
Strand Book Store, with an
astonishing two million copies
of new and secondhand books
spread out over several floors
of crowded bookshelves and
passageways. There is also a large
rare book room for first editions.
Westsider Bookshop is as
comprehensive as its music
counterpart, as it stocks an
enormous collection of used
books and country/bluegrass
LPs. Powerhouse Arena, an airy
Dumbo space, frequently hosts
events ranging from sedate
author readings to wild literary-
themed parties. Housing Works
Bookstore Caf is a lovely, high-
ceilinged bookstore-caf with a
wide range of used books. The
friendly McNally Jackson stocks
classics and contemporary
fiction, and also has a caf.
Thanks to inviting bookshops
such as Word and BookCourt,
Brooklyn is emerging as the
literary capital of the nation.
Shakespeare & Co. offers a
sensational selection of titles
and is open late every night.
Specialty Bookstores
Located in the bustling
Williamsburg neighborhood
of Brooklyn, Spoonbill &
Sugartown Booksellers carries
a wide variety of well-chosen
titles focusing on art, design,
and architecture. Desert Island
draws Brooklyns hipsters
and artists with its range of
independent zines, comics, and
counter-culture titles. The citys
largest selection of theatrical
books and publications is found
at Drama Book Shop. Jewish
books and music abound at
J. Levine Judaica. Rare books,
out-of-print books, and old
books about New York are sold
at the esteemed JN Bartfield
Galleries. Book Book is the only
midtown store specializing in
diaries, letters, biographies,
and autobiographies.
Books on murder and
suspense are the focus of
Mysterious Bookshop.
Try Forbidden Planet for old
and new science-fiction books
and comics. Midtown Comics
has two spacious locations and
offers a good range of comics at
affordable prices, mostly from
the late 1980s to the present.
Vintage collectors might prefer
JHU Comic Books, across from
the Empire State Building.
Collectible merchandise here
ranges from reasonable to ask
Santa in price.
Bank Street Book Store
has one of the best selections
of current childrens books;
they also host storytime and
other engaging events for
kids. Visit Books of Wonder
for a variety of hardcover and
rare childrens books.
The Complete Traveler
Antiquarian Bookstore stocks
a wide selection of brand-new
and antique travel books and
guides for your trip. The staff is
very knowledgeable and helpful.
The acclaimed publisher of
art and architecture volumes
Taschen maintains a handsome
store in suitably stylish SoHo.
Cookbooks are on the menu
at Kitchen Arts & Letters, with
many out-of-print books and
first editions. Radicals should
head for Revolution Books or
St. Marks Bookstore, which
also has an excellent selection
of literary and art titles. Idlewild
is a travel-centric bookstore
where everything is arranged
by destination.
Educational toys and their
book tie-ins can be found in the
airy and bright Scholastic Store,
downstairs from the publishers
SoHo offices.
Records and
Compact Discs
J&R Music World is a complete
home-entertainment store with
one of the best CD selections
in the city.
For out-of-print records, go to
Westsider Records, a treasure
trove for collectors, with an
excellent choice of classical,
jazz, and opera recordings.
House of Oldies has a massive
stock of deleted and rare
records to suit all tastes.
Smack dab in the fashionable
West Village, Bleecker Street
Records is crammed with hip,
hard-to-find treasures. Academy
Records is another excellent
choice, with secondhand CDs,
LPs, and DVDs.
DJs and vinyl lovers still
have options for deep house,
breakbeat, and electronica.
Check out Turntable Lab in
Manhattan, while in Brooklyn
there is Earwax or the lively
Halcyon. True music enthusiasts
should head to Other Music,
which stocks obscure gems,
from hot electronica to 1970s
free jazz. In the heart of trendy
Williamsburg, the London-based
Rough Trade NYC is a favorite
among the hipster set.
Sheet Music
The bookstore of the Juilliard
School, one of the worlds
most respected music schools,
sells sheet music, books, and
recordings. The Frank Music
Company has a huge collection
of classical music scores.
Charles Colin Publications
specializes in jazz.
 SHOPPING  325

DIRECTORY
General Interest Complete Traveler St. Marks Other Music
Bookstores Antiquarian Bookshop 15 E 4th St.
Bookstore 136 E 3rd Ave. Map 4 F2.
Barnes & Noble Tel (212) 477-8150.
199 Madison Ave. Map 4 F1.
33 E 17th St.
Map 9 A2. Tel (212) 260-7853. Rough Trade NYC
Map 9 A5. 64 N 9th St, Brooklyn.
Tel (212) 685-9007.
Tel (212) 253-0810. Scholastic Tel (718) 388-4111.
One of several branches. Desert Island Store
540 Metropolitan Ave, Turntable Lab
BookCourt 577 Broadway. 120 E 7th St.
Brooklyn. Map 4 E4.
163 Court St, Brooklyn. Map 5 A2.
Tel (718) 388-5087. Tel (212) 343-6166. Tel (212) 677-0675.
Tel (718) 875-3677.
Drama Book Shop Spoonbill & Westsider Records
Housing Works
250 W 40th St. 233 W 72nd St.
Bookstore Caf Sugartown
Map 8 E1. Map 11 D1.
126 Crosby St. Booksellers
Tel (212) 944-0595. Tel (212) 874-1588.
Map 4 F3. 218 Bedford Ave,
Tel (212) 334-3324. Forbidden Planet Brooklyn. Sheet
McNally Jackson
840 Broadway. Tel (718) 387-7322. Music
Map 4 E1.
52 Prince St. Taschen Store Charles Colin
Tel (212) 473-1576.
Map 4 F3. 107 Greene St. Publications
Tel (212) 274-1160. Idlewild 315 W 53rd St.
Map 4 E3.
12 W 19th St. Map 12 D4.
Powerhouse Arena Tel (212) 226-2212. Tel (212) 581-1480.
Map 8 F5.
37 Main St, Brooklyn.
Tel (212) 414-8888. Records Frank Music
Tel (718) 222-1331.
and Compact Company
Shakespeare & Co. JHU Comic Books 244 W 54th St.
32 E 32nd St. Discs Map 12 D4.
716 Broadway.
Map 4 E2. Map 8 F2. Tel (212) 582-1999.
Academy
Tel (212) 529-1330. Tel (212) 268-7088. Juilliard Store
Records
One of several branches. J. Levine Judaica 12 W 18th St. 144 W 66th St.
5 W 30th St. Map 11 C2.
Strand Book Store Map 7 C5.
Tel (212) 799-5000.
828 Broadway. Map 8 F3. Tel (212) 242-3000.
Map 4 E1. Tel (212) 695-6888. One of several branches.
Tel (212) 473-1452. JN Bartfield Galleries Bleecker Street
Westsider Bookshop 30 W 57th St. Records
2246 Broadway. Map 12 F3. 188 W 4th St.
Map 15 C4. Tel (212) 245-8890. Map 3 C2.
Tel (212) 362-0706. Kitchen Arts Tel (212) 255-7899.
Word & Letters Earwax
126 Franklin St, Brooklyn. 1435 Lexington Ave.
167 N 9th St, Brooklyn.
Tel (718) 383-0096. Map 17 A2.
Tel (718) 486-3771.
Tel (212) 876-5550.
Specialty Midtown Comics
Halcyon
Bookstores The Shop
200 W 40th St. Map 8 E1.
57 Pearl St at Water St,
Bank Street 459 Lexington Ave.
Dumbo, Brooklyn.
Book Store Map 13 A5.
Tel (212) 302-8192. Map 2 F2.
610 W 112th St.
Tel (718) 260-WAXY.
Map 21 A4. Mysterious
Tel (212) 678-1654. Bookshop House of Oldies
Book Book 58 Warren St. 35 Carmine St.
266 Bleecker St Map 1 B1. Map 4 D3.
Map 3 C2. Tel (212) 582-1011. Tel (212) 243-0500.
Tel (212) 807-0180. J&R Music World
Revolution Books
Books of Wonder 146 W 26th St. 23 Park Row.
18 W 18th St. Map 8 E5. Map 8 E4. Map 1 C2.
Tel (212) 989-3270. Tel (212) 691-3345. Tel (800) 806-1115.
326  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Art and Antiques New York has a handful of retro

shops, including Adelaide,
Any art-loving visitor to New York could easily spend several which stocks treasures from the
days gallery-hopping around the several hundred galleries 1930s through to the 1960s.
found throughout New York. Antique lovers can find an
exciting variety of goods, including Americana and many International Antiques
bargains, at the many flea markets; or they can browse If youre looking for English
through European and American fine antiques in one antiques, try Florian Papp
of the more exclusive antiques centers. To find out whats and Kentshire Galleries. For
happening, pick up the free monthly Art Now Gallery Guide, European pieces, youll have
plenty of choices; try Eileen Lane
available at most galleries, or check the local papers.
Antiques, Linda Horn Antiques,
and Center44. La Belle Epoque
Art Galleries including vintage masks and stocks antique posters. Oriental
One of the citys best-known arcade relics. Similar goods are dealers include luxury Doris
galleries is Leo Castelli, an at Laura Fisher Quilts, which Leslie Blau, E. & J. Frankel, and
important showcase for Pop Art sells everything from decoys Flying Cranes Antiques.
during the early 1960s and now to hooked rugs.
spotlighting new artists. Mary
Boone Gallery features Neo- Flea Markets
Expressionist artists such as Antiques Centers and New York has a number of
Julian Schnabel. Pace Gallery Secondhand Antiques year-round weekend markets.
exhibits current stars, especially In addition to hundreds of Most flea markets officially
painter-photographers. small shops selling everything open at 9 or 10am. If you
Postmasters features impressive from tiger teeth to multimillion- arrive early, you could unearth
changing shows of emerging dollar paintings, Manhattan is some valuable piece of cultural
artists. Marian Goodman home to The Manhattan Art Americana like a Barbie lunch
Gallery focuses on the & Antiques Center, which box or a Soupy Sales record.
European avant-garde. has dozens of dealers under Avid collectors visit the
In Chelsea, the Matthew Marks one roof. The Showplace Antiques Garage Flea Market
Gallery and Marianne Boesky Antique and Design Center and Hells Kitchen Flea Market,
Gallery are worth a visit. Paula in Chelsea, featuring four floors both of which are open year-
Cooper often hosts controversial of antiques, retro furnishings, round on weekends, for
shows in her beautiful loft space. and memorabilia, is also well antiques, collectibles, vintage
The Gagosian Gallery exhibits worth a visit. clothing, jewelry, and more.
paintings by modern masters, The Greenflea Market has new
with great works by Johns and and secondhand clothing and
Lichtenstein. It has another outlet American Furniture furniture. For information on all
in the Upper East Side, where you For furniture from the 17th, street fairs and flea markets,
can also find L&M Arts, with a 18th, and 19th centuries, try check Fridays The New York
good selection of European Bernard & S. Dean Levy or Times or The Village Voice.
and American fine art. Hirschl & Circa Antiques. Judith &
Adler Galleries in midtown is James Milne sell early
another option for high-profile American country furniture Auction Houses
exhibitions. Meulensteen is as well as a splendid collection Manhattans two most
architecture-friendly, while of quilts. Alternatively, go celebrated auction houses
Lehmann Maupin Gallery is the to Woodard & Greenstein are Christies and Sothebys,
spot to see up-and-coming American Antiques & Quilts selling collectibles ranging from
artists working in innovative for a truly wonderful selection coins, jewels, and vintage wines
forms. Barbara Gladstone is of Shaker pieces. to fine and decorative arts.
another heavy hitter in the art Collectors of Art Deco or Also worth a try are Doyle
scene, and the influential David Art Nouveau furniture New York and Phillips de Pury
Zwirner Gallery lures crowds should pay a visit to Alan & Co. both well-respected
with its progressive, big-name Moss, which is full of furniture names for fine art, jewelry, and
exhibitions. The airy Agora and decorative items of all antiques. Bear in mind that
Gallery shows local and inter- kinds. Macklowe Gallery items for sale are previewed
national works, including Art on Madison Avenue has a several days before the auctions,
Nouveau pieces. massive collection of fine so check the Friday and Sunday
Art Nouveau furniture. Just Times beforehand to see whats
a few blocks away, Lillian coming up. The venerable
American Folk Art Nassau has Tiffany lamps and Swann Galleries auctions
The American Primitive Gallery many Art Nouveau and Art prints, books, maps, posters,
sells a variety of curiosities, Deco pieces. autographs, and photographs.
 SHOPPING  327

DIRECTORY
Art Galleries Meulensteen Circa Antiques Linda Horn Antiques
511 W 22nd St. 374 Atlantic Ave, 1327 Madison Ave.
Agora Gallery Brooklyn. Map 17 A2.
Map 7 C4.
530 W 25th St. Tel (718) 596-1866. Tel (212) 772-1122.
Tel (212) 633-6999.
Map 7 C4.
Tel (212) 226-4151. Pace Gallery Judith & James Milne Flea Markets
534 W 25th St. 506 E 74th St.
Barbara Gladstone Map 7 C4. Map 17 C5. Antiques Garage
515 W 24th St. Tel (212) 929-7000. Tel (212) 472-0107. Flea Market
Map 7 C4. One of several galleries. By appointment only. 112 W 25th St.
Tel (212) 206-9300. Map 8 E4.
Paula Cooper Lillian Nassau
David Zwirner Tel (212) 243-5343.
534 W 21st St. 220 E 57th St. Map 13 B3.
Gallery Open Sat & Sun.
Map 7 C4. Tel (212) 759-6062.
525 W 19th St. Tel (212) 255-1105. Greenflea Market
Map 7 B3. Macklowe Gallery Columbus Ave, between
Tel (212) 727-2070. Postmasters 667 Madison Ave. 76th and 77th sts.
459 W 19th St. Map 13 A3. Map 16 D5.
Gagosian Gallery Map 7 C5. Tel (212) 644-6400. Tel (212) 239-3025.
555 W 24th St. Tel (212) 727-3323.
Woodard & Open Sun.
Map 7 C4.
Greenstein Hells Kitchen
Tel (212) 741-1111. American
American Antiques Flea Market
One of several galleries. Folk Art
506 E 74th St. 39th St, between 9th &
Hirschl & Adler American Primitive Map 17 A5. 10th aves. Map 7 C1.
Galleries Gallery Tel (212) 988-2906. Tel (212) 243-5343.
730 5th Ave, 4th Floor. 49 E 78th St, Suite 2B. Open Sat & Sun.
Map 12 F3. Map 17 A5. International
Tel (212) 535-8810. Tel (212) 628-1530. Antiques Auction Houses
L&M Arts Laura Fisher Quilts La Belle Epoque Christies
45 E 78th St. Hayes Fine Arts 115a Greenwich Ave. 20 Rockefeller Plaza.
Map 17 A5. Warehouse, 305 E 61st St. Map 3 C1. Map 12 F5.
Tel (212) 861-0020. Map 13 B3. Tel (212) 362-1770. Tel (212) 636-2000.
Tel (212) 838-2596.
Lehmann Center44 Doyle New York
Maupin Gallery Antique Centers 222 E 44th St, 2nd Floor. 175 E 87th St.
540 W 26th St. and Secondhand Map 13 B5. Map 17 A3.
Map 7 C4. Antiques Tel (212) 450-7988. Tel (212) 427-2730.
Tel (212) 255-2923.
Doris Leslie Blau Phillips de Pury & Co.
The Manhattan Arts 450 W 15th St.
Leo Castelli 306 E 61st St, 7th Floor.
& Antiques Center Map 7 C5.
18 E 77th St. Map 13 B3.
1050 2nd Ave. Tel (212) 940-1200.
Map 17 A5. Tel (212) 586-5511.
Map 13 A3.
Tel (212) 249-4470. By appointment only. Sothebys
Tel (212) 355-4400.
Marian E. & J. Frankel 1334 York Ave.
Showplace Antique Map 13 C1.
Goodman Gallery 1040 Madison Ave.
and Design Center Tel (212) 606-7000.
24 W 57th St. Map 17 A5.
40 W 25th St.
Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 879-5733. Swann Galleries
Map 8 F4.
Tel (212) 977-7160. Tel (212) 633-6063. Eileen Lane Antiques 104 E 25th St.
236 E 60th St. Map 9 A4.
Marianne
Boesky Gallery American Map 13 B3. Tel (212) 254-4710.
509 W 24th St.
Furniture Tel (212) 475-2988.
Map 7 C4. Adelaide Florian Papp
Tel (212) 680-9889. 702 Greenwich St. 962 Madison Ave.
Mary Boone Gallery Map 3 C2. Map 17 A5.
745 5th Ave. Tel (212) 627-0508. Tel (212) 288-6770.
Map 12 F3. Alan Moss Flying Cranes
Tel (212) 752-2929. 436 Lafayette St. Antiques
One of two galleries. Map 4 F2. 1050 2nd Ave. Map 13 B4.
Tel (212) 473-1310. Tel (212) 223-4600.
Matthew
Marks Gallery Bernard & S. Dean Kentshire Galleries
523 W 24th St. Levy 37 E 12th St.
Map 7 C4. 24 E 84th St. Map 16 F4. Map 4 E1.
Tel (212) 243-0200. Tel (212) 628-7088. Tel (212) 673-6644.
328  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Gourmet Groceries, Specialty
Food, and Wine Shops
New Yorks striking cultural and ethnic diversity is reflected in
its food the citys food shops provide a truly international
feast. There is also a dazzling array of coffee stores and wine
shops available almost everywhere you turn.
Gourmet Groceries
Scattered around town are
several food emporiums that are
tourist attractions in themselves.
Remember, too, to visit the
department stores, which often
rival the specialty food stores.
At Dean & DeLuca on
Broadway, a chic market and
culinary destination, food has
been elevated to an art form
dont miss the huge selection of
take-out food. Russ & Daughters
on Houston Street, one of the
oldest gourmet shops, is known
as an appetizing store, full of
ethnic food and famous for
smoked fish, cream cheese,
chocolates, and bagels. The
Gourmet Garage on Broome
Street sells all kinds of delicious
fresh food, in particular organic
produce. Zabars on Broadway is
perhaps the finest food store in
the world, with huge crowds
jostling for the excellent smoked
salmon, bagels, caviar, nuts and
candies, cheese, and coffee.
William Poll on Lexington
Avenue offers picnic hampers
as well as a great variety of
prepared dishes.
Whole Foods, famed for their
superb selection of natural,
organic, wholesome foods,
draws devoted shoppers
throughout the city. The Whole
Foods in Columbus Circle is one
of the largest supermarkets in
Manhattan, with row upon
gleaming row of quality food in
its purest state, with no artificial
additives. Theres also a popular
central Whole Foods on Union
Square. Fairway Market on
Broadway offers premium
groceries from fresh produce to
smoked fish and baked goods.
Specialty Food
Fabulous bread and cake
shops abound, but one of the
best is Poseidon Greek Bakery,
renowned for its filo pastry. Ess-
a-Bagel operates two locations,
both of which churn out some
of the citys highest-rated
bagels. Try the delicious Chinese
pastries at Golden Fung Wong
Bakery, or the pretzel croissants
and great tarts at City Bakery.
Magnolia Bakery is famed for
its beautifully decorated and
superb-tasting cupcakes. It has
three locations in Manhattan.
Great confectionery shops
include Li-Lac Chocolates for
handmade truffles and Mondel
Chocolates for chocolate
animals. Economy Candy has
a huge range of dried fruit, but
for a real treat go to Teuscher
Chocolates, which has fresh
champagne truffles flown in
direct from Switzerland. For pt
de foie gras, Scottish smoked
salmon, beluga, and caviar,
pay a visit to Caviarteria.
Myers of Keswick imports
English food. For something
more exotic, New Kam Man
Market is a grocery store selling
Chinese, Thai, and other Asian
products. The sprawling Eataly
has fine imported Italian goods;
you can take their fine cheeses
and pastas home or dine at one
of the numerous eateries within
the complex. Go to Lobels
(open since 1840) for fine cuts of
meat and game, and Citarella
for fine seafood. For exotic
spices and teas, visit Sullivan
Street Tea & Spice Co., in
Greenwich Village, or the Middle
Eastern shop Kalustyans.
For a wide choice of cheese,
as well as olives and charcuterie,
visit Murrays Cheese Shop.
Named New Yorks Best Cheese
Shop by many of the citys
newspapers, it is heaven for
cheese-lovers, with over 250
types of cheese from around
the world, from bloomy rinds
like Camembert to moist ricotta.
The friendly staff happily offers
tastings from the mind-boggling
selection. Make a picnic out of it,
and pick up some of their fresh
breads and olives to accompany
your purchases.
If you are looking for true old
Eastern European pickles, then
The Pickle Guys is the right
place. They also store pickled
tomatoes, mushrooms, olives,
hot peppers, sweet kraut,
sauerkraut, herring, and sun-
dried tomatoes.
For fruit and vegetables at
reasonable prices, visit a farmers
green market, but get there
early for the pick of the crop.
Among the most popular are
79th Street Greenmarket,
TriBeCa Greenmarket, and
Union Square. For information
on the citys markets, phone
(212) 788-7476.
Coffee Stores
New York also has many
fine coffee stores. Among the
best are Orens Daily Roast
and Porto Rico Importing
Company, each with a
mouth-watering selection.
The Sensuous Bean features
a superb range of gourmet
coffees and teas, as does the
cozy McNultys Tea & Coffee
Company, one of the nations
oldest coffee stores.
Wine Shops
Acker Merrall & Condit have
been selling wines since 1820
and have an excellent selection.
Go to Garnet Wines & Liquors
for fine wines and champagnes
at bargain prices. Spring Street
Wine Shop, in the heart of
SoHo, is a convenient, well-
stocked spot to pop in for
a bottle of fine wine. Sherry-
Lehmann Wine & Spirits is
among New Yorks leading
wine merchants. Astor Wines
& Spirits, New Yorks largest
wine store, features a massive
selection of premium and
discount wines and spirits. Every
month they highlight their Top
10 choices under $10 great for
superb bargains. Union Square
Wines and Spirits offers terrific
a variety of wines, and features
tastings every week.
 SHOPPING  329

DIRECTORY
Gourmet City Bakery The Pickle Guys Wine Shops
Groceries 3 W 18th St. 49 Essex St.
Map 8 F5. Map 5 B4. Acker Merrall
Dean & DeLuca Tel (212) 366-1414. Tel (212) 656-9739. & Condit
560 Broadway. 160 W 72nd St.
Eataly Poseidon
Map 4 E3. 200 5th Ave. Map 11 C1.
Greek Bakery
Tel (212) 226-6800. Map 8 F4. Tel (212) 787-1700.
629 9th Ave.
One of several branches. Tel (646) 398-5100. Astor Wines
Map 12 D5.
Fairway Market Economy Candy Tel (212) 757-6173. & Spirits
108 Rivington St. 399 Lafayette St.
2127 Broadway. Sullivan Street
Map 5 A3. Map 4 F2.
Map 15 C5. Tel (212) 254-1531. Tea & Spice Co.
Tel (212) 595-1888. 208 Sullivan St. Tel (212) 674-7500.
Ess-a-Bagel Map 4 D3.
One of several branches. Garnet Wines
831 3rd Ave. Tel (212) 387-8702.
Map 13 B4.
& Liquors
Gourmet Garage
Tel (212) 980-1010. Teuscher 929 Lexington Ave.
453 Broome St.
359 1st Ave. Chocolates Map 13 A1.
Map 4 E4.
Map 9 C4. 25 E 61st St. Tel (212) 772-3211.
Tel (212) 941-5850.
Tel (212) 260-2252. Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 751-
One of several branches. Sherry-Lehmann
Golden Fung Wong 8482.
Wine & Spirits
Russ & Daughters Bakery 620 5th Ave.
505 Park Ave.
179 E Houston St. 41 Mott St. Map 12 F4.
Map 13 A3.
Map 5 A3. Map 4 F3. Tel (212) 246-4416.
Tel (212) 838-7500.
Tel (212) 475-4880. Tel (212) 267-4037. TriBeCa
Kalustyans Greenmarket Spring Street
Whole Foods Wine Shop
123 Lexington Ave. Greenwich St, between
10 Columbus Circle. 187 Spring St.
Map 9 A3. Chambers and Duane sts.
Map 12 D3. Tel (212) 685-3451. Map 1 B1. Map 4 D4.
Tel (212) 823-9600. Open Wed & Sat. Tel (212) 219-0521.
Li-Lac Chocolates
One of several branches.
40 Eighth Ave. Union Square Union Square
William Poll Map 3 C1. Greenmarket Wines and Spirits
1051 Lexington Ave. Tel (212) 924-2280. E 17th St & Broadway. 140 4th Ave.
Map 17 A5. Lobels Map 8 F5. Map 4 F1.
Tel (212) 288-0501. 1096 Madison Ave. Open Mon, Wed, Fri, Tel (212) 675-8100.
Map 17 A4. and Sat.
Zabars Tel (212) 737-1372.
2245 Broadway.
Magnolia Bakery
Coffee Stores
Map 15 C4. 401 Bleecker St. McNultys Tea &
Tel (212) 787-2000. Map 3 C2. Coffee Company
Tel (212) 462-2572.
109 Christopher St.
Specialty Food One of several branches.
Map 3 C2.
79th Street Mondel Chocolates Tel (212) 242-5351.
Greenmarket 2913 Broadway.
Map 20 E3.
Orens Daily Roast
Columbus Ave between 1144 Lexington Ave.
Tel (212) 864-2111.
78th & 81st sts. Map 17 A4.
Map 16 D5. Murrays Cheese Shop Tel (212) 472-6830.
257 Bleecker St. One of several branches.
Open Sun.
Map 4 D2.
Caviarteria Tel (212) 243-3289. Porto Rico
75 Murray St. One of two branches. Importing Company
Map 1 B1. 201 Bleecker St.
Myers of Keswick
634 Hudson St. Map 3 C2.
Tel (212) 791-7777.
Map 3 C2. Tel (212) 477-5421.
Citarella Tel (212) 691-4194. One of several branches.
2135 Broadway. The Sensuous Bean
New Kam Man Market
Map 15 C5. 66 W 70th St.
200 Canal St.
Tel (212) 874-0383. Map 4 F5. Map 12 D1.
One of several branches. Tel (212) 571-0330. Tel (212) 724-7725.
330  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Electronics and Housewares advice via Facebook. The specialty

at Tekserve is Mac repairs; you
From flat-screen TVs and top-of-the-line sound systems to can also get a free estimate and
swanky designer home furnishings, New York City abounds browse for upgrades.
with electronics and housewares stores. Perhaps the most
competitive retailers in New York are the ones that sell Kitchenware
electronics, so it pays to shop around. Be particularly careful Most of the department stores
with electronics stores on the heavily touristed streets and offer a wide range of household
those around the major tourist sights, such as Fifth Avenue goods. For a specialized shop,
near the Empire State Building. Many of these stores sell try Broadway Panhandler on
mediocre, sometimes faulty equipment at inflated prices, Eighth Street, a cooks heaven
with outstanding baking and
and its a hassle or near impossible to get a refund once pastry-making equipment.
youve returned home. If youre buying electronic goods to Bowery Restaurant Supply
take to Europe, make sure they have compatible voltages Co. offers a wide range of
and formats (many in the US are made to different standards). kitchen essentials at great
prices. Williams-Sonoma
has kitchenware, utensils, and
Sound Systems and supplies. Those looking to cookbooks. The East Village,
and Equipment immerse themselves in the particularly on and around
For the latest in cutting-edge world of analog photography Bowery Street, has long been
stereo equipment, head to make a beeline for the stylish the nucleus for restaurant
Sound by Singer. J&R Music Lomography Gallery Store. supply stores, where you can
World sells competitively priced Head to Chelseas Foto Care for find top-quality kitchenware
equipment and has the best a wide range of cameras and at bargain prices. The popular
jazz CD collection in the city. accoutrements. Print Space MTC Kitchen shop sells
The Danish Bang & Olufsen Photo Lab offers a variety of professional Japanese cooking
showcases a range of sleek, services, including digital rentals, tools, from ceramics and high-
minimalist sound systems that film processing, and both color end knives to soba-making
can dress up even the humblest and black-and-white darkrooms. machines and sushi supplies.
flat. Hammacher Schlemmer, a Make for Adorama in the Flatiron
New York mainstay since 1848, District, and browse the spec-
carries the best, the only, and tacular displays of digital Housewares
the unexpected and has friendly, cameras and accessories, point- and Furnishings
informative staff. Browse the and-shoots, and disposables, and Baccarat, Lalique, and
quality systems at Lyric Hi-Fi, a also affordable prices on film Villeroy & Boch are where
longtime favorite thats been developing and processing. youll find the finest crystal,
around since 1959. The Dont miss the quality, high-end china, and silverware. Orrefors
perennially jam-packed Sony cameras and equipment at the Kosta Boda has beautiful
Style delivers on its wide range elegant The Photo Village. glassware, from vases to
of top-shelf sound systems and candlesticks, and Tiffany &
plenty of impulse-buy gizmos. Co. is also a fashionable spot.
True to its name, the chain store Computers Go to Avventura for crystal
Best Buy does offer some of the There are several Macintosh and china and, for the best of
best buys on an assortment of meccas in Manhattan, including inexpensive, utilitarian china,
stereo systems and home- the immense, airy Apple Store visit Fishs Eddy. The esteemed
entertainment products. For SoHo and the gleaming cube of Joan B. Merviss gallery sells
high-end stereo equipment a store on 5th Avenue, which is fine, imported Japanese
and components, check out open 24 hours a day. Mac-philes ceramics, and La Terrine and
Innovative Audio Video flock to both to peruse and test- Mackenzie-Childs hand-
Showrooms. Also stop to look drive the latest models, plug in painted ceramics. Browse the
around at the wide range of to iPods, and attend seminars hip SoHo showcase of designer
both used and new stereos at geared to both novices and Jonathan Adler, whose eye-
the friendly Stereo Exchange. experts. If you brought your catching pottery of natural
computer from home and find shades and primitive and
that you need a repair, head to organic shapes will stand out
Photography The Little Laptop Shop, where from everything else in your
B & H Photo Video is where a tech whiz should be able to fix living room. His collection
amateur and professional whatever ails your computer. All includes a family of playful
photographers and filmmakers brands and models are serviced, decanters in the shapes of man,
can find everything they need. and the staff offers tips on new woman, and child, plump vases
Willoughbys has decent sales technologies, syncing services of smiling suns and fish plates,
on photographic equipment between devices, and even free and a menagerie of pottery
 SHOPPING  331

animals, including bookends in TriBeCa offers chic furniture Linens

shaped like the front and back
of a charging bull. ABC Carpet
& Home on Broadway has an
enviable reputation for home
furnishings. For low prices on
housewares, shop on Grand
Street on the Lower East Side.
For elegant furniture, from
soft leather sofas to luxurious
beds, and sleek tableware, try
Giorgio Armanis posh Armani
Casa. Dune on Franklin Street
by contemporary designers,
including wool sofas and
convertible lounges. Design
Within Reach is the source for
fully licensed classics, such as
Saarinen, Eames, and Bertoia.
If you lean toward retro, head
to Restoration Hardware,
where you can choose from
updated Art Deco furnishings,
lighting fixtures, and patinated
bronze accessories.
Linens can be found in
most department stores, but
for silk sheets and luxurious
linens visit D. Porthault and
Pratesi. The Italian Frette,
on Madison Avenue, sells
thick towels and robes
and wonderfully soft cotton
sheets and bedding. Bed,
Bath & Beyond offers a
varied selection of bed linens,
kitchen, and bath accessories.

DIRECTORY
Sound Systems Lomography Gallery Williams-Sonoma Lalique
and Equipment Store 10 Columbus Circle. 609 Madison Ave.
41 W 8th St. Map 4 D1. Map 12 D3. Map 13 A3.
Bang & Olufsen Tel (212) 529-4353. Tel (212) 823-9750. Tel (212) 355-6550.
927 Broadway. Map 8 F4. One of several branches.
Tel (212) 388-9792. The Photo Village Mackenzie-Childs
369 W 34th St. Map 8 D2. 20 W 57th St.
Best Buy Housewares
Tel (212) 989-1252. Map 12 F3.
60 W 23rd St. Map 8 E4. and Furnishings
Tel (212) 570-6050.
Tel (212) 366-1373. Print Space Photo Lab
ABC Carpet & Home Orrefors Kosta Boda
151 W 19th St, 8th Floor.
Hammacher 888 Broadway. Map 8 F5. 200 Lexington Ave.
Schlemmer Map 8 E5.
Tel (212) 473-3000. Map 9 A2.
147 E 57th St. Map 13 A3. Tel (212) 255-1919.
Armani Casa Tel (212) 684-5455.
Tel (212) 421-9000. Willoughbys 979 3rd Ave, Suite 1424. Restoration
Innovative Audio 298 5th Ave. Map 8 F3. Map 13 B3.
Tel (212) 564-1600. Hardware
Video Showrooms Tel (212) 334-1271. 935 Broadway. Map 8 F4.
150 E 58th St. Map 13 A4.
Computers Avventura Tel (212) 260-9479.
Tel (212) 634-4444.
463 Amsterdam Ave. La Terrine
J&R Music World Apple Store 5th Ave Map 15 C4.
23 Park Row. Map 1 C2. 1024 Lexington Ave.
767 5th Ave. Map 12 F3. Tel (212) 769-2510.
Tel (212) 238-9000. Map 13 A1.
Tel (212) 336-1440.
Baccarat Tel (212) 988-3366.
Lyric Hi-Fi Apple Store SoHo 625 Madison Ave.
1221 Lexington Ave. Tiffany & Co.
103 Prince St. Map 4 E3. Map 13 A3.
Map 17 A4. See p329.
Tel (212) 226-3126. Tel (212) 826-4100.
Tel (212) 439-1900. Villeroy & Boch
The Little Design Within Reach
Sony Style 41 Madison Ave.
Laptop Shop 27 E 62nd St. Map 13 A2. Map 9 A4.
550 Madison Ave.
7 Clinton St. Tel (212) 888-4539. Tel (212) 213-8149.
Map 13 A4.
Map 5 B3. One of several branches.
Tel (212) 833-8800.
Tel (212) 674-3111. Linens
Sound by Singer Dune
18 16th St. Map 8 F5. Tekserve 156 Wooster St. Map 4 E3.
Bed, Bath & Beyond
Tel (212) 924-8600. 119 W 23rd St. Map 8 E4. Tel (212) 925-6171.
620 Ave of the Americas.
Tel (212) 929-3645. Fishs Eddy Map 8 F5.
Stereo Exchange
627 Broadway. Map 4 E3. 889 Broadway. Map 8 F5. Tel (212) 255-3550.
Kitchenware Tel (212) 420-9020.
Tel (212) 505-1111. D. Porthault
Bowery Restaurant Grand Street 470 Park Ave.
Photography Supply Co. Lower East Side. Map 13 A3.
2 Delancey St. Map 5 A4. Map 4 E5. Tel (212) 688-1660.
Adorama
42 W 18th St. Map 8 F5. Tel (212) 254-9720.
Joan B. Merviss Frette
Tel (212) 741-0466. Broadway 39 E 78th St, 4th Floor. 799 Madison Ave.
B & H Photo Video Panhandler Map 17 A5. Map 13 A1.
420 9th Ave. Map 8 D2. 65 E 8th St. Map 4 E2. Tel (212) 799-4021. Tel (212) 988-5221.
Tel (212) 444-6615. Tel (212) 966-3434.
Jonathan Adler Pratesi
Foto Care MTC Kitchen 47 Greene St. 829 Madison Ave.
41 W 22nd St. Map 8 E4. 711 3rd Ave. Map 13 B5. Map 4 E4. Map 13 A2.
Tel (212) 741-2990. Tel (212) 661-3333. Tel (212) 941-8950. Tel (212) 288-2315.
332  TRAVELERS NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT
IN NEW YORK CITY
New York City is a non-stop entertainment
extravaganza, every day, all year round.
Whatever your taste, you can be sure the
city will satisfy it on both a grand and an
intimate scale. The challenge is to take
advantage of as many of the entertainments
as possible. If its theater, you can enjoy a
mainstream success on Broadway or take
a chance on an experimental production
in a loft. If its music, theres the magnificence
of opera at the Met or a jazz group blowing
in a club in the Village. You can catch a
spectacle of avant-garde dance in a caf
or try your own avant-garde dancing in
one of the citys warehouse-sized clubs.
Movie theaters abound. But perhaps best
of all is wandering and watching the vast
show that is New York.

on all the films; and ClubFone Discount Tickets

TKTS discount ticket booth
Practical Information
Find out what events there
are to choose from in the
arts and leisure listings of
The New York Times and the
Village Voice newspapers and
in Time Out New York, New York,
and The New Yorker magazines.
Listings are updated on the
websites of these magazines,
such as www.nymag.com
and www.newyork.timeout.
com. At your hotel ask for
Where, a free weekly magazine
with maps and information on
the many attractions.
Hotel staff may be able
to answer some of your
questions and should also
carry a wide selection of
brochures and leaflets.
In addition, they may
be willing to reserve
tickets for you. Some
hotel TVs have a New
York visitor information
channel.
At NYC & Company,
touch-screen kiosks
provide information
and sell tickets to the
citys top attractions.
Multilingual counselors,
discount coupons, free
maps, brochures, tour
information, and ATMs
are available. Moviefone
gives online information A band playing at a cozy New York jazz club
has up-to-date information
on nightlife.
Booking Tickets
Popular shows may be sold
out for weeks ahead, so
book early. Box offices are
open daily, except Sundays,
from 10am until 1 hour
after the performance begins.
Call in person, or phone the
box office or a ticket agency
and order your seats by credit
card. The biggest agencies
are Telecharge and
Ticketmaster; they charge
a small fee. An independent
ticket agent may also be
able to find seats for you
numerous services, including
many Broadway-focused
ones, are listed in the Yellow
Pages. Fees vary according
to demand. Broadway Ticket
Center in the Times Square
Information Center sells full-
price tickets.
Established in 1973, the non-
profit TKTS company sells
unsold tickets on the day of the
performance for all Broadway
shows. Discounts range from
25 to 50 percent, but the price
will include a small handling
fee and must be paid for in
cash or by travelers check.
The TKTS booth in Times
Square (at Duffy Square under
the red steps) sells matine
tickets from 10am to 2pm every
Wednesday and Saturday, and
from 11am to 3pm on Sundays;
evening tickets are sold from 3 to
8pm (from 2pm on Tuesdays). The
booths at Front and John streets,
where lines are often shorter, sell
evening tickets from 11am to
6pm daily (until 4pm on Sundays;
closed Sunday in winter).
Matine tickets are sold the
day before. There is also a TKTS
booth in downtown Brooklyn.
The Broadway Ticket Center
in Times Square offers same-
day and advance tickets for
both Broadway and Off-
Broadway shows. They
also have seating charts
and, occasionally, video
previews to help you
choose a show.
You can purchase day-
of-performance tickets
from Ticketmaster at
discounts of 10 to 25
percent (with a small
commission fee) by
telephone. The Hit Show
Club sells vouchers to its
members (its free to join)
that can be exchanged at
box offices for discounted
tickets. Some shows offer
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  333

Directory
Practical Information
ClubFone
Tel (212) 777-2582.
clubfone.com
Movie Tickets Online
fandango.com
moviefone.com
movietickets.com
NYC & Company
810 7th Ave. Map 12 E4.
Tel (212) 484-1222.
nycgo.com

Booking Tickets
Broadway Ticket Center
Times Square Information Center,
1560 Broadway.
The Booth Theater on Broadway (see p337) Map 12 E5.
Telecharge
standing-room tickets on the section in the Village Voice lists Tel (212) 239-6200, 800-432-7250.
day at a bargain price. Its often poetry readings, recitals, and telecharge.com
the only way to catch a sold-out experimental films. The Shake-
show on short notice, but you speare Festival at the Delacorte Ticketmaster
Tel (212) 307-4100, 800-755-4000.
might not get the best view. Theater in Central Park offers
ticketmaster.com
You can also get discount free tickets two per person
tickets for shows at Broadway. on a first-come, first-served basis Discount Tickets
com. StubHub! and TicketsNow (be prepared to queue).
are the largest ticket resale sites. Broadway.com
Tickets for sports, music, and 226 W 47th St. Map 12 E5.
shows are e-mailed or FedExed Tel (212) 398-8383, ext. 214.
to you, and they come with a broadway.com
money-back guarantee. Hit Show Club
Tel (212) 581-4211.
hitshowclub.com
Scalpers and Touts
StubHub!
If you buy from a scalper (a ticket
Tel (866) STUB-HUB.
tout), you risk getting tickets for stubhub.com
the wrong day, counterfeit
tickets, or paying outrageous TicketsNow
prices. The police often monitor Tel 800-927-2770.
sports and theater venues for ticketsnow.com
scalpers and their customers. TKTS
If faced with no other options, Tel (212) 912-9770. Front & John
insist on the seller escorting you sts. Map 2 D2. Duffy Square,
to the entry gates to ensure that Neon lights of theaters in the Times Square. 47th St &
the tickets are genuine. heart of Broadway Broadway. Map 12 E5.
tdf.org/TKTS

Free Tickets Disabled Access Free Tickets

Free tickets to concerts, TV
shows, and special events are
sometimes offered at NYC &
Company (New York Convention
& Visitors Bureau), which is open
8:30am6pm Monday to Friday
and 9am5pm on weekends.
Free or deeply discounted tickets
to film or theater premieres are
often advertised in The New York
Times, Daily News, or Time Out
New York. The Cheap Thrills
Broadway theaters reserve a few Delacorte Theater
spaces and cut-price tickets for Entrance via 81st St at Central
the disabled. Call Ticketmaster Park W. Map 16 E4.
or Telecharge well in advance Tel (212) 539-8500.
for information and to reserve publictheater.org
your tickets. For Off-Broadway Summer time only.
theaters, call their box offices.
Some theaters offer special Disabled Tickets
equipment for their hearing- Tap (Theatre Access Project)
impaired patrons. Tap can Tel (212) 221-1103 (Voice).
arrange sign language for tdf.org
Broadway theaters.
334  TRAVELERS NEEDS

New Yorks Best: Entertainment

New York is one of the great entertainment capitals
of the world. Top names in every branch of the arts
are drawn here to perform and often to live and
work. Major sports events are a huge attraction
and live music, theater, and comedy can be found
throughout the year. In terms of nightlife, New
York truly lives up to its reputation as the city
that never sleeps. From the huge choice offered,
there are some venues and events that stand out;
this selection has been chosen from the listings
Madison Square Garden
on pages 336 to 355 as among those not to be Top sporting action is found at
missed. Even if you experience only one of them, the Garden, including home
you will have been part of something as essentially games for basketballs New
New York as the Empire State Building or the York Knicks and ice hockeys Theater
Rangers, plus other sporting District
Brooklyn Bridge. events and big-name concerts
(see p352).

Village Vanguard
The jazz clubs of
Greenwich Village have
played host to all the Chelsea and the
Garment District
er

great names in jazz.

Riv

Fans can catch the

stars of today and
on

tomorrow at the
Huds

world-famous Village
Vanguard and the Gramercy and
Blue Note (see p344). the Flatiron
Greenwich District
Village

East
SoHo and Village
TriBeCa

Seaport and Lower East Side,

the Civic Chinatown, and
Lower Center Little Italy
Manhattan

Film Forum
At New Yorks most stylish
art-house movie theater you
can see the latest foreign
and American independent
releases or catch up with a
classic in a wide range of
retrospectives (see p341).
Public Theater
Founded in 1954, the Public has
a mandate to create theater for
all New Yorkers. Its year-round
Shakespeare Festival is part of
a commitment to classical
works, but new plays are also
developed here (see p122).
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  335

Upper West
Side

Philharmonic Rehearsals
The Wednesday- and Thursday-morning
rehearsals at Avery Fisher Hall are often
open to the public at a fraction of the
Upper East normal ticket price (see p342).
Side
Central Park
0 kilometers 2

0 miles 1

Upper
Midtown

Lower
Midtown

Metropolitan Opera House

Reserve well ahead and prepare to
pay high prices to see the giants
of the opera world (see p342).
ver
t Ri
E as

Shakespeare in Central Park

If you are a summer visitor, set aside a
time to get one of the rare free tickets
for the Delacorte Theaters open-air
Shakespeare featuring top Hollywood
and Broadway names (see p336).

Carnegie Hall
Conveniently situated in the Theater District,
Carnegie Hall is famous the world over as a
show-case for the best in the musical arts.
A backstage tour gives a fascinating insight
into the house that music built (see p342).
The Nutcracker
The Christmas event for children of every
age is performed each year at Lincoln Center
by the New York City Ballet (see p338).
336  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Theater and Dance
New York is famous for its extravagant musicals and its ferocious
critics. It is one of the worlds greatest theater and dance centers,
featuring every kind of production imaginable. Whether
your preference is for the glitz and glamor of a Broadway
blockbuster or something truly experimental, youll find it here.
Broadway
Broadway has long been
synonymous with New Yorks
Theater District, but the majority
of Broadway theaters are actually
scattered between 41st and 53rd
streets and from Sixth to Ninth
avenues, with a few around the
much-improved Times Square.
Most were built between 1910
and 1930, during the heyday
of vaudeville and the famous
Ziegfeld Follies. The Lyceum (see
p146) is the oldest theater still in
operation (1903), the American
Airlines Theater, permanent
home of the Roundabout
Theater Co., is one of the newest
(1918), and, in 2008, the historic
Biltmore Theater was renamed
the Samuel Friedman Theater.
Following a slump in the 1980s,
many Broadway theatres have
enjoyed a revival by using big
names to draw in the crowds. This
is where you will find the power
productions the big, highly
publicized dramas, musicals and
revivals starring Hollywood
luminaries in (it is hoped) sure-
fire earners. Hits have included
imports such as Les Misrables;
New York originals such as Cats
and The Producers; the popular
childrens favorite The Lion King;
and great revivals like 42nd Street.
There have also been glitzy
adaptations from movies, such
as Hairspray; shows celebrating
1960s and 1970s pop favorites,
such as ABBA in Mamma Mia!
and Monty Pythons Spamalot.
Off-Broadway and
Off-Off-Broadway
There are about 20 Off-Broadway
stages and 300 Off-Off-Broadway
stages whose works will
sometimes transfer to Broadway.
Off-Broadway theaters have from
100 to 499 seats, and Off-Off-
Broadway showplaces have
fewer than 100. Both range
from the well-appointed to
the improvised, sited in lofts,
churches, and even garages. Off-
Broadway became very popular
during the 1950s as a reaction to
the commercialism of Broadway.
It was also an ideal place for
cautious producers to try out
works considered too avant-
garde for Broadway at lower
operating costs. During the past
two decades, Off-Off-Broadway
theaters have staged more
experimental pieces by these
same producers.
Off-Broadway theaters are
found all over Manhattan from
the Douglas Fairbanks Theater,
where the irreverent Forbidden
Broadway plays, to Central Parks
open-air Delacorte Theater.
Some are even in the Broadway
district, such as the Manhattan
Theater Club. Farther afield are
the Brooklyn Academy of Music
(BAM) (see p250), and the 92nd
Street Y. In these venues you
will find lively, unusual, and
experimental showcases for
new talent as well as lots of
uninhibited productions.
The Off-Broadway theaters
mounted the first productions
in New York of the works of
playwrights Eugene ONeill,
Tennessee Williams, Eugene
Ionesco, Sean OCasey, Jean
Genet, and David Mamet.
Samuel Becketts Happy Days
premiered at the Cherry Lane
Theatre in 1961, a venue that still
promotes cutting-edge writing.
Off-Broadway theaters host
modern and often irreverent
treatments of the classics.
Sometimes a more intimate,
smaller Off-Broadway stage suits
a production better than a larger
more established theater would,
as proved by such long-running
successes as The Fantasticks
along with the Threepenny Opera,
which has been shown at the
Lucille Lortel Theater since 1955.
Performance Theaters
This extremely avant-garde art
form can be found in several
Off- and Off-Off-Broadway
locations. Accurate descriptions
and categorizations are almost
impossible, but expect the
bizarre and outlandish. The
most likely venues to find this
are La MaMa Experimental
Theatre Club, P.S. 122, HERE,
Baruch Performing Arts Center,
92nd Street Y, Symphony
Space, and the Public Theater
(see p122). The latter is perhaps
the most influential theater
in New York. It was founded in
the 1950s by the late director
Joseph Papp, who introduced
neighborhood tours to bring
theater to people who had
never seen it before.
The Public Theater created
hits such as A Chorus Line and
Hair; it is most famous for its
free summer performances of
Shakespeare at the Delacorte
Theater in Central Park (see p210).
It usually has several produc-
tions running, and at 6pm on
the day of performance, rush
standby (discounted) tickets
(limited to two per person) are
sold in the Public Theater lobby.
Theater Schools
New York is the best place in the
country to see actors learning
their trade. Foremost among
the acting schools is The Actors
Studio. The late Lee Strasberg,
the advocate of method acting
in which the actor aims for
complete identification with the
character being played was its
guru. His students included
Dustin Hoffman, Al Pacino, and
Marilyn Monroe. In progress
productions feature trainees
and are open to the public and
free. Sandy Meisner trained
many actors, including the late
Lee Remick, at the Neighbor-
hood Playhouse School of the
Theater. Its plays are not open
to the public. The New Drama-
tists began in 1949 to develop
new playwrights, helping the
careers of the likes of William
Inge. Play readings are open
to the public and free.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  337

s Lyceum
149 W 45th St.
WEST 54TH STREET
Tel (212) 239-6200.

AVENUE
WEST
Seventh Avenue
B.D.E 53RD STREET
d Majestic

B R O A D W AY
247 W 44th St.
Tel (212) 239-6200.
W. C. HANDYS PLACE

SEVENTH
200 100
f Marquis

OF
WEST 51ST STREET 211 W 45th St.
Tel (212) 307-4100.
50th Street 50th Street

THE
g Minskoff
WEST 50TH STREET
C.E 1
49th Street-
N.Q.R 200 W 45th St.
E I G H T H

WEST 49TH STREET 47th-50th St-

Rockefeller Center Tel (212) 307-4100.
B.D.F.M

AMERICAS
h Music Box
WEST 48TH STREET
200 100
239 W 45th St.
AVENUE

Tel (212) 239-6200.

WEST 47TH STREET

j Nederlander
(SIXTH

208 W 41st St.

A V E N U E

WEST 46TH STREET

DUFFY Tel (212) 307-4100.

SQUARE
WEST 45TH STREET
k Neil Simon
SHUBERT
ALLEY

1514

1141

250 W 52nd St.

701

AVENUE)

W E S T 4 4 T H S T R E E T Tel (212) 307-4100.

680

l New Amsterdam
1126

W E S T 4 3 R D S T R E E T
Times Sq-
42nd St 214 W 42nd St.
1.2.3 Times Sq-42nd St
42nd St- 7.N.Q.R.S Tel (212) 307 4100.
Port Auth. TIMES
WEST 42ND SQUARE 42nd St-
Bus Terminal STREET
A.C.E 200 100 B.D.F.M z New Victory
BRO

W E S T 4 1 S T S T R E E T BRYANT
209 W 42nd St.
PARK Tel (212) 239-6200.
ADW

x Palace
AY

W E S T 4 0 T H S T R E E T

1564 Broadway.
Tel (212) 307-4100.
Broadway 8 Biltmore t Gerald
Theaters (Samuel Friedman Schoenfeld c Richard Rodgers
Theater) 261 W 47th St. 236 W 45th St. 226 W 46th St.
1 Al Hirschfield
302 W 45th St. Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 307-4100.
Tel (212) 239-6200. 9 Booth y Gershwin v St. James
2 Ambassador 222 W 45th St. 222 W 51st St. 246 W 44th St.
219 W 49th St. Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 307-4100. Tel (212) 239-6200.
Tel (212) 239-6200.
0 Broadhurst u Helen Hayes b Shubert
3 American 235 W 44th St. 240 W 44th St. 225 W 44th St.
Airlines Theater Tel (212) 239-6200.
Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 239-6200.
227 W 42nd St.
q Brooks
Tel (212) 719-1300. i Imperial n Studio 54
Atkinson
4 August Wilson 249 W 45th St. 254 W 54th St.
256 W 47th St.
245 W 52nd St. Tel (212) 239-6200.
Tel (212) 307-4100. Tel (212) 719 3100.
Tel (212) 239-6200.
o John Golden
w Cort m Walter Kerr
5 Barrymore 252 W 45th St.
138 W 48th St. 219 W 48th St.
243 W 47th St. Tel (212) 239-6200.
Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 239-6200.
Tel (212) 239-6200.
e Eugene ONeill p Longacre
6 Belasco , Winter Garden
230 W 49th St. 220 W 48th St.
111 W 44th St. 1634 Broadway.
Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 239-6200.
Tel (212) 239-6200.
7 Bernard B Jacobs r Foxwoods a LuntFontanne
242 W 45th St. 213 W 42nd St. 205 W 46th St. For other theaters
Tel (212) 239-6200. Tel (212) 556 4750. Tel (212) 307-4747. see p339.
For keys to symbols see back flap
338  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Ballet
At the heart of the dance world
is Lincoln Center (see p216),
where the New York City Ballet
performs pieces in the New York
State Theater. This company
was created by the legendary
brilliant choreographer George
Balanchine (see p51) and
is probably still the best in
the world. The current director,
Peter Martins, was one of
Balanchines best dancers and
continues the strict policy of
ensemble dancing rather than
star turns. The season runs
from November to February
and late April to early June.
The ballet school at the
Juilliard Dance Theater also
presents a spring workshop
every year, and this is a good
chance to see budding stars.
The American Ballet Theater
appears at the Metropolitan
Opera House, which also
hosts many visiting foreign
companies, such as the Kirov,
Bolshoi, and Royal ballets. Its
repertoire includes 19th-century
classics, such as Swan Lake,
and works by modern
choreographers such as
Twyla Tharp and Paul Taylor.
Contemporary Dance
New York is the center of many of
the most important movements
in modern dance. The Dance
Theater of Harlem is world
famous for its modern, traditional,
and ethnic productions. Other
havens of experimental dance
include the 92nd Street Y and
the Merce Cunningham Studio
in Greenwich Village. The unique
Dance Theater Workshop
features contemporary dance
and performance from around
the world. The Kitchen, La
MaMa Experimental Theatre
Club, Symphony Space,
and P.S. 122 are all multimedia
venues with the latest in
contemporary dance, perfor-
mance art and avant-garde
music. Choreographer Mark
Morriss company performs at
the Mark Morris Dance Center in
Brooklyn; City Center (see p150) is
a favorite spot for dance fans. It
used to house the New York City
Ballet and the American Ballet
Theater before Lincoln Center
was built. As well as featuring
the Joffrey Ballet, City Center
has held performances by all
the great contemporary artists,
including Alvin Aileys blend
of modern, jazz, and blues, and
the companies of modern dance
masters Merce Cunningham and
Paul Taylor. Avoid the mezzanine,
as the view is restricted.
The citys single most active
venue for dance is probably
the Joyce Theater, where such
well-established companies as
the Feld Ballet, along with bold
newcomers and visiting
troupes, perform.
Each spring the Festival of
Black Dance at the Brooklyn
Academy of Music (BAM) (see
p250) features everything from
ethnic dance to hip-hop.
During autumn the Next Wave
festival of music and dance is
held, celebrating international
and American avant-garde
dance and music. During
winter, the American Ballet
Festival is held here.
During June, New York
University (see p117) holds
a Summer Residency Festival
with lecture-demonstrations,
rehearsals, and performances,
and Dancing in the Streets
organizes summertime dance
performances all over the city.
Throughout the month of
August, Lincoln Center Out
of Doors has a program of free
dance events on the plaza, with
such experimental groups as the
American Tap Dance Orchestra.
The Duke Theater presents
many contemporary dance
companies and participates
in events such as the New
York Tap Festival.
At different times of the year,
Radio City Music Hall holds
several spectacular shows, with
different companies from all over
the world. At Christmas and
Easter, it features the famously
precise Rockettes dance troupe.
Choreographers and dance
companies frequently present
works-in-progress and recitals
to the public. Among the most
interesting venues for these is
the Joan Weill Center for Dance ,
which is one of the countrys
largest dance facilities and was
created by the Alvin Ailey
American Dance Theater
to promote black cultural
expression. The Hunter College
Dance Company performs
new works by its student
choreographers, and the Isadora
Duncan Dance Foundation
recreates Duncans original
dances. To see contemporary
choreographers, the best place
to go is Juilliard Dance Theater.
Prices
Theater is extremely expensive
to produce, and ticket prices
tend to reflect this. Even Off-
and Off-Off-Broadway tickets
are not cheap anymore. Preview
tickets are easier to get hold of,
though, and its fun to see a
show before the reviews are in
so youre able to make up your
own mind.
For a Broadway theater ticket
you can expect to pay $80 or
more; for musicals, up to $200;
Off-Broadway, $25 to $60. For
dance, $20 to $50 is the usual
range, with up to $125 for the
American Ballet Theater.
Times of Performance
The general rules for theater-
hours are: closed on Mondays
(except for most musicals),
with matinees on Wednesdays,
Saturdays, and sometimes
Sundays. Matinees usually
begin at 2pm, with evening
performances at 8pm. Be sure
to check the correct dates
and times of the performance
beforehand, as tickets are usually
non-refundable if you fail to turn
up at the correct time.
Backstage Tours
and Lectures
For those interested in the
mechanics and anecdotes of
the theater, your best bet is to
go on one of the theater tours.
The 92nd Street Y organizes
insiders views of the theater,
with famous directors, actors,
and choreographers taking
part. Writers are invited along
to read or discuss their current
works. Radio City Music Hall
also holds tours.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  339

DIRECTORY
Off-Broadway La MaMa Contemporary Lincoln Center
and Off-Off- Experimental Dance Out of Doors
Broadway Theatre Club Lincoln Center, Broadway
74a E 4th St.
92nd Street Y at 64th St.
92nd Street Y See Off-Broadway. Map 11 C2.
Map 4 F2.
1395 Lexington Ave. Tel (212) 362-6000.
Tel (212) 475-7710. Brooklyn Academy
Map 17 A2. of Music
Tel (212) 415-5500. P.S. 122 La MaMa
See Off-Broadway. Experimental
150 First Ave.
Brooklyn Academy Map 5 A1. City Center Theatre Club
of Music Tel (212) 477-5288. 130 W 56th St. See Performance Theater.
30 Lafayette Ave, Map 12 E4.
Public Theater Mark Morris Dance
Brooklyn. Tel (212) 581-1212.
425 Lafayette St. Center
Tel (718) 636-4100.
Map 4 F2. Dance Theater 3 Lafayette Ave.
Cherry Lane Theatre Tel (212) 539-8500. of Harlem (Brooklyn)
38 Commerce St. 466 W 152nd St. Tel (718) 624-8400.
Map 3 C2. Symphony Space
Tel (212) 690-2800. Merce Cunningham
Tel (212) 239-6200. 2537 Braodway.
Dance Theater Studio
Map 15 C2.
Delacorte Theater Workshop 55 Bethune St.
Tel (212) 864-5400.
Central Park. (81st St.) 219 W 19th St. Map 3 B2.
Map 16 E4. Tel (212) 255-8240.
Theater Map 8 E5.
Tel (212) 539-8750. Schools Tel (212) 924-0077. New York University
Summer time only. Tisch School of the Arts
The Actors Studio Dancing in the
Douglas Streets (TSOA), 111 2nd Ave.
432 W 44th St. Map 4 F1.
Fairbanks Theater 55 6th Ave (offices).
Map 11 B5. Tel (212) 998-1920.
432 W 42nd St. Tel (212) 625-3505.
Tel (212) 757-0870.
Map 7 C1. P.S. 122
Neighborhood Duke Theater
Tel (212) 239-6200. See Performance Theater.
229 W 42nd St.
Playhouse School
Lucille Map 8 E1. Radio City Music Hall
of the Theatre
Lortel Theater Tel (646) 223-3000. 50th St at Ave of the
340 E 54th St.
121 Christopher St. Americas.
Map 13 B4. Hunter College
Map 3 C2. Map 12 F4.
Tel (212) 688 3770. Dance Company
Tel (212) 924-2817. Tel (212) 307-7171.
695 Park Ave.
New Dramatists
Manhattan Map 13 A1. Symphony Space
424 W 44th St.
Theater Club Tel (212) 772-4490. See Off-Broadway.
Map 11 C5.
311 W 43rd St. Isadora Duncan
Tel (212) 757-6960. Backstage Tours
Map 8 D1. Dance Foundation
Tel (212) 399-3000. Ballet 141 W 26th St. 92nd Street Y
Vivian Beaumont Map 20 D2. See Off-Broadway.
Juilliard Dance Tel (212) 691-5040.
Lincoln Center. Radio City Music Hall
Theater
Map 11 C2. Joan Weill Center See Contemporary Dance
60 Lincoln Center Plaza,
Tel (212) 362-7600. for Dance
W 65th St. Events Guide
Map 11 C2. 405 W 55th St.
Performance broadway.com
Tel (212) 769-7406. Map 11 D4.
Theater playbill.com
Tel (212) 405-9000.
Metropolitan
92nd Street Y Joyce Theater
Opera House
See Off-Broadway. 175 Eighth Ave at 19th St.
Lincoln Center,
Baruch Performing Broadway at 65th St. Map 8 D5.
Arts Center Map 11 C2. Tel (212) 242-0800.
55 Lexington Ave. Tel (212) 362-6000. Juilliard Cance
Map 9 A4. Theatre
New York State
Tel (646) 312-4085. See Ballet.
Theater
HERE Art Center Lincoln Center, The Kitchen
145 6th Ave. Broadway at 65th St. 512 W 19th St.
Map 4 D4. Map 11 C2. Map 7 C5.
Tel (212) 647-0202. Tel (212) 870-5570. Tel (212) 255-5793.
340  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Movies On Location
New York is a film buffs paradise. Apart from new US Many New York locations have
releases, which often debut months in advance of other played starring roles in films.
Here are a few:
countries, many classic and foreign films are screened here.
The Brill Building (1141
The city has always been the testing ground for new Broadway) contained Burt
developments in films, and it continues to be a hotbed of Lancasters penthouse in
young and innovative talent. Many of the movies best known Sweet Smell of Success.
directors Woody Allen, Martin Scorsese, and Spike Lee The Brooklyn Bridge was
were born and raised in New York, and the citys influence is a great backdrop in Spike Lees
Mo Better Blues.
perceptible in many of their films. They, and others, can often
Brooklyn Heights and the
be seen filming on the streets of the city; many of New Yorks Metropolitan Opera
landmarks have become famous after appearing in films. Most appeared in Moonstruck.
of the TV networks based in New York offer free tickets to the Central Park has shown up
recordings of their shows. Watching a show such as The Tonight in countless films, including
Show Starring Jimmy Fallon is a popular activity for visitors. Love Story and Marathon Man.
55 Central Park West will
be remembered as Sigourney
First-Run Movies some theaters for an additional Weavers home in Ghostbusters.
New York reviews and box charge of about $2 per ticket. Chinatown played a major
office returns are so vital to a Matinees (usually before 4pm) role in Year of the Dragon.
films success that most major are easier to get into. Senior The Dakota was where
American films have their pre- citizens pay a reduced price for Mia Farrow lived in the classic
mieres in Manhattans theaters. tickets: the required age may be Rosemarys Baby.
First-run films are shown mainly over 60, 62, or 65 depending on
The Empire State Building
at the City Cinema chains, the policy of the theater. is still standing after King
AMC Loews, United Artists, Kongs last battle. The
and Cineplex Odeon, which observation deck is where
are scattered around the city. Film Festivals
Cary Grant waited in vain in
Some theaters have recorded A high point of the year for An Affair to Remember; here
information giving the names film buffs is the New York Film Meg Ryan finally met Tom
and duration of the different Festival, now in its third decade. Hanks in Sleepless in Seattle.
films showing, with starting Organized by the Film Society Grand Central Terminal is
times and ticket prices. of Lincoln Center, the festival famous for Robert Walkers
Programs start at 10am or starts in late September and meeting with Judy Garland
11am and are repeated every continues for two weeks at the in Under the Clock and for the
2 to 3 hours until midnight. many Lincoln Center theaters. magical ballroom sequence
You should expect to line up Outstanding new films from in The Fisher King.
for most evening and weekend the US and abroad are entered Harlem hosted the jazz
performances of the more pop- in a competition for the huge musicians and dancers in
ular films. Making reservations prestige of winning an award. The Cotton Club.
using a credit card is possible at Many of the films shown Katzs Deli was the setting for
during the festival are later the caf scene between Billy
Film Ratings released and can usually Crystal and Meg Ryan in When
be seen only in art houses. Harry Met Sally
Films in the United States are The TriBeCa Film Festival, Little Italy appeared in
graded as follows: created in part by director and The Godfather I and II.
G General audiences; all ages actor Robert De Niro, was Madison Square Garden
admitted. launched in 2002 to celebrate was the setting for the
PG Parental guidance New York City as a filmmaking dramatic climax of The
suggested; some material capital and to contribute to the Manchurian Candidate.
unsuitable for children. long-term recovery of Lower Tiffany & Co. was Audrey
PG-13 Parents strongly Manhattan. The festival show- Hepburns favorite shop in
cautioned; some material cases a wide range of films, Breakfast at Tiffanys.
inappropriate for children including classics, document-
The United Nations
under age 13. aries, and premieres, and usually Building featured in North by
R Restricted. Children under 17 takes place in late April and early Northwest and The Interpreter.
need to be accompanied by a May. Every November, DOC NYC
Washington Square Park
parent or an adult guardian. presents a weeks worth of film
was where Robert Redford and
NC-17 No children under 17 and video documentaries from Jane Fonda walked Barefoot in
admitted. around the world, followed by the Park.
panel discussions.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  341

Foreign Films
and Art Houses
For the latest foreign and
independent films, go to the
Angelika Film Center, which
also has an upscale coffee bar.
Other good places are the Rose
Cinemas at the BAM, the Film
Forum, and Lincoln Plaza
Cinema. The Plaza has a busy
program of art and foreign films.
For Asian, Indian, and Chinese
films, you should visit the Asia
Society. The French Institute
screens many French films with
English subtitles on Tuesdays.
The Quad Cinema shows a wide
selection of foreign films, often
quite rare. Cinema Village runs
special film events, such as the
Festival of Animation.
The Walter Reade Theater
houses the Film Society of
the Lincoln Center, offering
retrospectives of international
movies as well as celebrations
of contemporary works, such
as the popular annual Spanish
Cinema Now festival.
Classic Films
and Museums
Retrospectives of films by
particular directors or featuring
specific actors are shown at the
Public Theater and the Whitney
Museum of American Art (see
pp2023). The Museum of the
Moving Image (see p248) screens
old films and also has many
exhibits of memorabilia from the
film industry. The Paley Center
for Media (see p173) has regular
screenings of classic films; you
can also see or hear specific
television or radio programs.
Students interested in classic,
new, and experimental movies
will appreciate the collection of
the Anthology Film Archives.
The shows at the Rose Center
for Earth and Space at the
American Museum of Natural
History are worth a full days visit.
On summer evenings in
Bryant Park, you can watch free
classic movies and, on Saturday
mornings, the Film Society of
Lincoln Center, where special
childrens shows are held.
Television Shows
A number of TV programs
originate in New York. The
popular Tonight Show Starring
Jimmy Fallon and Saturday Night
Live are almost impossible to get
tickets for, but tickets for many
other shows can be obtained
online, by calling the networks
such as NBC, ABC, and CBS,
or sometimes on standby.
Another good source of
free tickets is the Times Square
Information Bureau (see p363).
On weekday mornings on Fifth
Avenue around Rockefeller
Plaza, free tickets for a number
of TV programs are sometimes
distributed by the programs
production staff. Theres
absolutely no way that you can
plan for this. Its simply a matter
of good luck and being in the
right place at the right time.
For those who want to get a
glimpse behind the scenes of
TV, NBC organizes tours of the
studios, from 8:30am to 5:30pm
Monday to Thursday, 8:30am to
6:30pm Friday and Saturday, and
9:15am to 4:30pm on Sunday
(depart every 15 mins).
Choosing What to See
If you feel bewildered by the
huge range of films offered in
New York, check the listings in
New York magazine, The New
York Times, the Village Voice and
The New Yorker. The following
Internet guides give show
times and locations:
www.moviefone.com
www.movietickets.com

DIRECTORY
Film Festivals Film Forum Classic Films Public Theater
209 W Houston St. and Museums 425 Lafayette St. Map 4 F4.
DOC NYC Map 3 C3. Tel (212) 539-8500.
docnyc.net Tel (212) 727-8110. American Museum
of Natural History Whitney Museum
Film Society of French Institute of American Art
Central Park W at 79th St.
Lincoln Center 55 E 59th St. Map 12 F3. 945 Madison Ave.
Map 16 D5.
Tel (212) 875-5367. Tel (212) 355-6160. Map 13 A1.
Tel (212) 769-5100.
filmlinc.com Tel 800-WHITNEY.
Lincoln Plaza Cinema Anthology
TriBeCa Film Festival 1886 Broadway. Film Archives
Tel (212) 941-2400.
Television Shows
Map 12 D2. 32 2nd Ave at 2nd St.
tribecafilmfestival.org Tel (212) 757-2280. Map 5 C2. ABC
Tel (212) 505-5181. Tel (212) 580-5176.
Foreign Films Quad Cinema
abc.com
and Art Houses 34 W 13th St. Map 4 D1. Film Society of
Tel (212) 255-8800. Lincoln Center CBS
Angelika Film Center See Film Festivals. Tel (212) 247-6497.
Rose Cinemas
18 W Houston St. Map 4
E3. Tel (212) 995-2000.
Brooklyn Academy of Museum of the NBC
Music (BAM), 30 Lafayette Moving Image 30 Rockefeller Plaza at
Asia Society Ave, Brooklyn. 35th Ave & 36th St. 49th St.
725 Park Ave. Map 13 A1. Tel (718) 636-4100. Astoria, Queens. Tel (212) 664-3056.
Tel (212) 517-2742. Tel (718) 784-0077. nbcstudiotour.com
Walter Reade Theater
Cinema Village 70 Lincoln Center Plaza. Paley Center for Media Rockefeller Plaza
22 E 12th St. Map 4 F1. Map 12 D2. 25 W 52nd St. Map 12 F4. 47th50th St, 5th Ave.
Tel (212) 924-3363. Tel (212) 875-5600. Tel (212) 621-6600. Map 12 F5.
342  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Classical and Contemporary Music
New Yorkers have a voracious appetite for music. Live
concerts by the worlds most celebrated musical performers
may be enjoyed at well-known halls throughout the year,
and younger, newer artists, and exotic imports always find
receptive audiences.
Tickets
Find out what you can choose
from in New York by checking
out the listings on the websites
of NYC & Co., The New York
Times, Village Voice, Time Out
New York, and The New Yorker.
Classical Music
The orchestra in residence at
Avery Fisher Hall in Lincoln
Center (see p217) is the New
York Philharmonic. It is also
the annual site for the popular
Mostly Mozart series and
Young Peoples Concerts. Alice
Tully Hall, in Lincoln Center, is
an acoustic gem and home to
the Chamber Music Society.
One of the worlds premier
concert halls is the revamped
Carnegie Hall (see p150).
Upstairs in the Weill Recital Hall
there are quality performances
for reasonable prices.
The Brooklyn Academy
of Music (BAM) (see p250) is
the home of the Brooklyn
Philharmonic. Classical music,
dance, opera, jazz, and world
music all find an audience at
the New Jersey Performance
Arts Center in Newark.
The Merkin Concert Hall
is host to some top chamber
ensembles and soloists. For
really excellent acoustics, go
to the Town Hall. The 92nd
Street Ys Kaufmann Concert
Hall also offers a lively menu
of music and dance. Theres
also the Frick Collection and
Symphony Space, both of
which offer a varied program
Classical Radio
New York has three FM radio
stations that broadcast
classical music: WQXR at
96.3, the National Public
Radio station WNYC at 93.9,
and WKCR 89.9.
ranging from gospel to
Gershwin, classical to ethnic.
The beautiful Grace Rainey
Rogers Auditorium in the
Metropolitan Museum
of Art is for chamber music
and soloists, while the well-
equipped Florence Gould Hall,
at the Alliance Franaise,
presents a varied program of
chamber music, orchestral
pieces, concerts, and even
classic French films.
The Juilliard School of Music
and the Mannes College of
Music are both considered
excellent. Their students and
faculties give free recitals, and
there are shows by leading
orchestras, chamber music
groups, and opera companies.
The Manhattan School of
Music offers an excellent
program of over 400 events per
year, from classical to jazz.
At 9:45am on the Thursdays
of the New York Philharmonic
concerts, the evening show is
rehearsed at Avery Fisher Hall
in Lincoln Center. Audiences
are often admitted to listen,
and rehearsal tickets are
available at low prices. The
Kosciuszko Foundation
hosts the annual Chopin
Competition. Corpus Christi
Church has an active concert
schedule, presenting such
groups as the Tallis Scholars.
Opera
Dominating the citys operatic
scene is Lincoln Center (see
p214), home to the New
York City Opera, and the
Metropolitan Opera House,
which has its own opera
company. The Met is the
jewel in the crown, offering
top international performers.
More accessible and dynamic
is the New York City Opera.
Its performances range from
Madame Butterfly to South
Pacific, with subtitles above
the stage to help the
audience understand the
plot. Lower-priced quality
performances are staged
by the up-and-coming
singers at the Village Light
Opera Group, the Kaye
Playhouse at Hunter
College, and the students
at the Juilliard Opera
Center in Lincoln Center.
Contemporary Music
New York is one of the most
important places in the world
for contemporary music. Exotic,
ethnic, and experimental
music is played in many first-
rate venues. The Brooklyn
Academy of Music (BAM) is the
standard-bearer of the avant-
garde. Each autumn the
Academy holds a festival of
music and dance called Next
Wave, which has helped launch
many musical careers.
An annual festival of serious
modern music called Bang on
a Can is performed at the
Ethical Culture Society Hall
and features works by Steve
Reich, Pierre Boulez, and John
Cage. Experimentalists, such as
Davie Weinstein with his audio-
visual acid test music a mix of
CD players, amplified
instruments, keyboards, and
sound effects perform at the
Dance Theater Workshop.
Other venues include the
Asia Society (see p189), with
its jewel of a theater for many
visiting Asian performers, and
St. Peters Church.
Backstage Tours
Behind-the-scenes tours are
offered by Lincoln Center
and Carnegie Hall.
Religious Music
Few experiences are more
moving than an Easter concert
in the vast Cathedral of St.
John the Divine (see pp2289).
Seasonal music is also offered at
many of the citys museums and
in almost every other available
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  343

space from Grand Central
Terminals main concourse
(see pp1589) to bank and hotel
lobbies. For jazz vespers in a
stunning modern building,
visit St. Peters Church. Most of
these concerts are free, but you
are encouraged to contribute.
Alfresco
Free outdoor summer concerts
take place in Bryant Park,
Washington Square, and
Lincoln Centers Damrosch Park.
The annual concerts on Central
Parks Great Lawn and in
Brooklyns Prospect Park are
performed by the New York
Philharmonic and the
Metropolitan Opera. In good
weather, strolling musicians
perform at South Street
Seaport, on the steps of the
Metropolitan Museum of Art
(see pp1929), and in the area
around Washington Square.
Music for Free
Free musical performances
are given at The Cloisters
(see pp23841) and the
Whitney Museums Philip
Morris Building. Sunday-
afternoon recitals are held
at Rumsey Playfield and the
Naumburg Bandshell in
Central Park, as well as the
Summerstage. Call The Dairy
for more information. You will
also find music in the Federal
Hall (see p70), while at Lincoln
Center, dont miss the exciting
free performances held in
the Juilliard School of Music.
Other venues include the
Greenwich House Music
School (free student recitals)
and the Winter Garden at the
World Financial Center (see
p71). Numerous free concerts
and talks take place in the
citys churches, including
St. Pauls Chapel, Trinity
Church (see p70), and St.
Thomas Church (see p173).

DIRECTORY
Tickets Lincoln Center
155 W 65th St. Map 11 C2.
Internet Events Guide Tel (212) 546-2656. For
newyork.timeout. tours call: (212) 875-5350.
com Alice Tully Hall:
nycgo.com Tel (212) 875-5050.
nymag.com Avery Fisher Hall:
nytimes.com Tel (212) 875-5030.
villagevoice.com
Manhattan School
of Music
Classical Music
120 Claremont Ave. Map
92nd Street Y 20 E2. Tel (212) 749-2802.
1395 Lexington Ave. Map
17 A2. Tel (212) 415-5500.
Mannes College
of Music
Brooklyn Academy 150 W 85th St. Map 15 D3.
of Music (BAM)
Tel (212) 580-0210.
30 Lafayette Ave, Brooklyn.
Merkin Hall
Tel (718) 636-4100.
129 W 67th St. Map 11 D2.
Carnegie Hall Tel (212) 501-3330.
881 7th Ave. Map 12 E3.
Metropolitan
Tel (212) 247-7800.
Museum of Art
Corpus Christi Church 1000 5th Ave at 82nd St.
529 W 121st St. Map 20 Map 16 F4.
E2. Tel (212) 666-9350. Tel (212) 535-7710.
Florence Gould Hall New Jersey Perfor-
(at the Alliance mance Arts Center
Franaise) 1 Center St, Newark, NJ.
55 E 59th St. Map 13 A3. Tel 888-466-5722.
Tel (212) 355-6160.
Symphony Space
Frick Collection 2537 Broadway. Map 15
1 E 70th St. Map 12 F1. C2. Tel (212) 864-5400.
Tel (212) 288-0700.
Town Hall
Juilliard School 123 W 43rd St. Map 8 E1.
of Music Tel (212) 997-1003.
Tel (212) 799-5000.
Opera
Kosciuszko
Foundation Juilliard Opera
15 E 65th St. Map 12 F2 Center
Tel (212) 734-2130. Tel (212) 769-7406.
Kaye Playhouse Alfresco
(Hunter College)
695 Park Ave.
Bryant Park
Map 8 F1.
Map 13 A1.
Tel (212) 768-4242.
Tel (212) 772-4448.
Damrosch Park
Metropolitan
Tel (212) 875-5000.
Opera House
Tel (212) 362-6000. Washington Square
Map 4 D2.
Village Light
Opera Group
Music for Free
Perform at: Schimmel
Center for the Arts at Pace The Cloisters
University, 3 Spruce St. Fort Tryon Park.
Map 1 C2. Tel (212) 923-3700.
Tel (212) 346-1715.
The Dairy
Central Park at 65th St.
Contemporary Map 12 F2.
Music
Tel (212) 794-6564.
Asia Society Federal Hall
725 Park Ave. Map 13 A1.
26 Wall St. Map 1 C3.
Tel (212) 517-2742.
Tel (212) 825-6888.
Dance Theater Greenwich House
Workshop Music School
See Dance p339. 46 Barrow St. Map 3 C2.
Tel (212) 242-4770.
Ethical Culture
Society Hall St. Pauls Chapel
2 W 64th St. Map 12 D2. Broadway at Fulton St. Map
1 C2. Tel (212) 233-4164.
Tel (212) 874-5210.
St. Peters Church Trinity Church
619 Lexington Ave. Broadway at Wall St. Map
1 C3. Tel (212) 602-0800.
Map 13 A4.
Tel (212) 935-2200.
Whitney Museum
Philip Morris Building, 120
Religious Music Park Ave at 42nd St. Map
9 A1. Tel 800-944-8639.
Cathedral of
St. John the Divine Winter Garden
1047 Amsterdam Ave & World Financial Center,
112th St. Map 20 E4. West St. Map 1 A2.
Tel (212) 316-7540. Tel (212) 945-2600.
344  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Rock, Jazz, and World Music
Theres every imaginable form of music in New York, from
international stadium rock to the sounds of the 1960s, from
Dixieland jazz or country blues, soul, and world music to
talented street musicians. The citys music scene changes
at a dizzying pace, with new arrivals (and departures) almost
daily, so theres no way to predict what you may find when you
arrive. Musical standards also vary.
Prices and Venues
At clubs, expect to pay a cover
charge and possibly a one- or
two-drink minimum (at $7 or
more) requirement. The prices
for concerts typically range
from $50 to $150 for the major
venues. Many of the smaller
concert venues are arranged
for seating in certain areas and
dancing in others often with
different prices for each.
The top international bands
are usually to be found in the
huge stages at the MetLife
Stadium or Madison Square
Garden (see p137). Here the likes
of Elton John, Bruce Springsteen,
and Madonna perform. Tickets
for these events sell out very fast,
so buy as many as you need as
soon as you hear of a concert,
unless you dont mind paying a
lot for them through an agent or
a scalper (see p333). During the
summer, big outdoor concerts
are held at Jones Beach (see
p257) and Central Park
SummerStage.
Medium-sized venues
for mainstream bands
include the Art Deco palace
of Radio City Music Hall, the
Manhattan Center (formerly
the Hammerstein Ballroom), and
the Beacon Theater. Booking an
impressive lineup of acts is the
Nokia Theater in Times Square.
This state-of-the-art venue is
known for its top-notch acoustics.
The most popular live-music
venues are in the Upper West
Side area.
Many leading rock venues are
basically bars with music. They
will often book different bands
every night, so check the listings
in The New York Times, Village
Voice, or Time Out New York,
or phone the place to find out
whats happening and at what
time during that particular week.
Rock Music
Rock comes in many forms:
Gothic, industrial, techno,
psychedelic, post-punk funk,
indie, and alternative music
are among the latest crazes.
If you prefer to see more of
a band than a giant video
screen, the following venues
have a much more intimate,
friendly atmosphere.
The Knitting Factory
Brooklyn has new music,
while the Mercury Lounge
is one of the most happening
music spots, featuring hot new
bands being groomed for
bigger stages. Irving Plaza is
where relatively unknown and
sometimes known rock groups
play, as do the occasional famous
country and blues musicians.
The Bowery Ballroom, in the
Lower East Side, boasts superior
acoustics and sightlines and
usually books well-known
touring acts and local bands.
A converted bodega, Arlenes
Grocery attracts a loyal crowd
thanks to acts ranging from
rock to country and comedy. Its
Live Rock and Roll Karaoke on
Monday nights is also popular.
Joes Pub draws those who
appreciate the eclectic roster of
rock, jazz, hip-hop, and lounge
music. Le Poisson Rouge, a self-
described multimedia art
cabaret, is one of Greenwich
Villages hottest spots to catch
up-and-coming international
and independent music acts,
and is a favorite of Downtown
trend-spotters.
Jazz
The original Cotton Club
and Connies Inn, which were
once crucibles of jazz, are long
gone, as are the former
speakeasies of West 52nd
Street. However, many talented
performers carry on the old
traditions of Dave Brubeck, Les
Paul, Duke Ellington, Count Basie,
and other big bands. In Harlem,
the stylish yet informal Lenox
Lounge features contemporary
jazz on the weekends.
In Greenwich Village, jazz
temples from the 1930s survive
and continue to foster great
music. Foremost among them
is the Village Vanguard, where
some of the most highly revered
jazz memories linger, and newer
ones are being fashioned by
such groups as the McCoy Tyner
and Branford Marsalis trios.
Blue Note hosts big bands at
high prices but has a great
atmosphere. Smalls offers
cutting-edge jazz, with various
acts every night often playing
two or more sets each.
Smoke is an intimate
nightspot offering a divergent
roster of musicians, and Birdland
features ex-Mingus alumni and
musicians such as Bud Shank.
Caf Carlyle, an East Side spot
once famed for late jazz pianist
and singer Bobby Short, now
sometimes features clarinetist-
filmmaker Woody Allen playing
with Eddy Davis and his New
Orleans Jazz Band. Jazz Standard,
with an ample underground
performance space, showcases
top-notch jazz performers most
nights of the week.
A sophisticated club and
restaurant, Iridium features
progressive jazz. If youre
in New York in January, dont
miss the annual NYC Winter
Jazzfest, where famous jazz
acts play at various clubs
around Manhattan.
Jazz at Lincoln Center events
are scheduled throughout the
year, including concerts by the
renowned Lincoln Center Jazz
Orchestra under the direction
of Wynton Marsalis. The music
ranges from Duke Ellingtons
New York sounds to Johnny
Dodds traditional New Orleans-
style jazz. Jazz at Lincoln Center
now has its own home since it
moved into the worlds first
performing arts center
specifically for jazz. It is housed
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  345

in the Time Warner Center a
multiroom facility on Columbus
Circle, perched above Central
Park, with bandstands posed
against sparing walls of glass
and a dance floor beneath the
moon and stars (see p217).
Finally, select Friday nights
at the Rose Center offer cool
parties under the stars featuring
top live rock acts and DJs.
Folk and
Country Music
Folk, rock music, and R&B (rhythm
and blues) can be found at the
rather faded Bitter End, which
once showcased James Taylor
and Joni Mitchell but now
specializes in promising new
talent, as does the Lower East
Sides Rockwood Music Hall.
Also worth checking out is the
Sidewalk Caf, with its wide
range of emerging performers.
Blues, Soul,
and World Music
For blues, soul, and world
music, options include the
Apollo Theater in Harlem (see
p232). For more than 60 years
the near-legendary Wednesday
Amateur Nights have been
responsible for discovering and
launching stars, including James
Brown and Dionne Warwick.
The Cotton Club is no longer
located in its original spot, but
the modern venue offers good
blues, jazz, and a Sunday real
gospel brunch on Harlems
main street. The B.B. Kings
Blues Club lineup often features
legendary jazz and gospel
performers. Food is also served,
but can be pricy. Dont miss
Mambo Mondays with Nestor
Torres at SOBs (Sounds of Brazil),
a world music club specializing
in Afro-Latin rhythms.
Terra Bluess bar doubles as
an interesting music venue. The
blues artists that appear here
range from authentic Chicago
acoustic players to modern
blues acts. In the East Village,
The Stone showcases an
eclectic range of artsy acts.
Part community center and
caf, part jazz and experimental
music space, the 5C Caf is a
throwback to old New York
and has a laidback vibe.

DIRECTORY
Music Venues Irving Plaza Jazz at Lincoln Center Rockwood Music Hall
17 Irving Pl. Map 9 A5. 150 W 65th St. Map 11 C2. 196 Allen St.
Beacon Theater Tel (212) 777-6800. Tel (212) 258-9800 Map 5 A3.
2124 Broadway. or 362-7600. Tel (212) 477-4155.
Map 15 C5. Joes Pub
Tel (212) 465-6500. Public Theater, Jazz Standard Sidewalk Caf
425 Lafayette St. Map 4 F2. 116 E 27th St. Map 9 A3 94 Ave A. Map 5 B2.
Central Park Tel (212) 539-8778. Tel (212) 576-2232. Tel (212) 473-7373.
SummerStage
Rumsey Playfield. Knitting Factory Lenox Lounge Blues, Soul,
Map 12 F1. Brooklyn 288 Malcolm X Blvd. and World
Tel (212) 360-2777. 361 Metropolitan Ave. Map 21 B2. Music
Tel (347) 529-6696. Tel (212) 427-0253.
Madison Square 5C Caf
Garden Le Poisson Rouge NYC Winter Jazzfest 68 Avenue C. Map 5 C2.
7th Ave & 33rd St. 158 Bleecker St. Map 4 D3. winterjazzfest.com Tel (212) 477-5993.
Map 8 E2. Tel (212) 505-3473.
Rose Center Apollo Theater
Tel (212) 465-6741.
Mercury Lounge 79th St at CPW. 253 W 125 St.
Manhattan Center 217 E Houston St. Map 16 D5. Map 19 A1.
311 W 34th St. Map 8 D2. Map 5 A3. Tel (212) 769-5100. Tel (212) 531-5305.
Tel (212) 279-7740. Tel (212) 260-4700.
Smalls B.B. Kings Blues Club
MetLife Stadium 183 W 10th St. 237 W 42nd St.
1 MetLife Stadium Dr, Jazz
Map 3 C2. Map 8 E1.
East Rutherford, NJ. Birdland Tel (212) 252-5091. Tel (212) 997-4144.
Tel (201) 559-1515. 315 W 44th St. Smoke Cotton Club
Nokia Theater Map 12 D5. 2751 Broadway. 656 W 125th St. Map 22
1515 Broadway. Map 12 E5. Tel (212) 581-3080. Map 20 E5. F2. Tel (212) 663-7980.
Tel (212) 930-1959. Tel (212) 864-6662.
Blue Note
SOBs
Radio City Music Hall 131 W 3rd St. Village Vanguard 204 Varick St. Map 4 D3.
See p339. Map 4 D2. 178 7th Ave S. Tel (212) 243-4940.
Tel (212) 475-8592. Map 3 C1.
Rock Music Tel (212) 255-4037.
The Stone
Caf Carlyle Avenue C at 2nd St.
Arlenes Grocery 95 E 76th St. Map 17 A5. Map 5 C2.
95 Stanton St. Map 5 A3. Tel (212) 744-1600. Folk and thestonenyc.com
Tel (212) 995-1652. Country Music
Iridium Terra Blues
Bowery Ballroom 1650 Broadway. Bitter End 149 Bleecker St.
6 Delancey St. Map 4 F3. Map 12 D2. 147 Bleecker St. Map 4 E3. Map 4 E3.
Tel (212) 533-2111. Tel (212) 582-2121. Tel (212) 673-7030. Tel (212) 777-7776.
346  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Clubs, Dance Halls, and

Gay and Lesbian Venues Nightclubs
Nightclubs are the places to see
New Yorks nightlife and club scene is legendary, and a show. New York shows are less
deservedly so. Whatever your preference be it a plush club flashy than in the 1940s and
with pricey bottle service, an old-school disco, or the soothing 1950s but they still boast a wide
sounds and cocktails of a piano bar youll be amazed at the variety of acts. Expect to pay a
cover charge; many of the clubs
choice. There was a rash of big discos in the 1980s and 1990s,
also require that you have at
but few of these have survived and now the hip crowds tend least two drinks.
to gravitate towards stylish, yet often casual, bars and lounges. Maries Crisis is a legendary
Greenwich Village piano bar
where patrons are invited and
When and Where The Marquee is another encouraged to sing cabaret
The best and hippest time for A-list spot in Chelsea, with a standards and hit showtunes.
clubbing is during the week glass-enclosed VIP mezzanine Uncle Charlies maintains a
its also a lot cheaper. Take a that draws Hollywood starlets. lively piano lounge, giving
fair amount of money and Bring some models if you want patrons of the nearby Theater
some ID to prove that youre to be sure of getting in. District a chance to belt out
old enough to drink (which is Hidden away in Chelsea, The their own versions of Broadway
over 21) but beware: all the Park serves as an all-purpose favorites after a show. Joes
drinks are very expensive. nightlife destination for a Pub at the Public Theater has
The trendiest clubs roll mixed clientele that spans decent food and a wonderful
on until 4am or later. Fashions multiple social groups. Many array of performances and
and club nights change all the customers start off with food musical acts. Feinsteins at
time, so go to Tower Records and drinks before progressing the Regency is the epitome of
on Broadway for all the latest to the lively dance floor, where classic cabaret. Come here to
leaflets, check club details the DJ rarely deviates from enjoy everything from tinkling
in the listings magazines (see the current top hits. live piano shows to Broadway
p332) and read the Village To some, the formerly gritty tributes and jazz trios.
Voice. The most interesting Lower East Side is the citys
places nowadays are often most happening neighbor-
popularized by word of hood, and the casual bOb Bar Gay and
mouth. Your best bet is to promises a hopping dance Lesbian Venues
go somewhere like Pacha floor packed with diverse The past two decades have
and hope someone will tell crowds grooving to old-school seen the arrival of clubs and
you where to go on to. Its a hip-hop and party tunes. restaurants specifically geared
well-known spot and often Another venue thats always to gay and lesbian clientele.
invitations to other clubs are packed is Webster Hall, an Popular gay cabarets include
given out there. elder statesman of NYC the Duplex, which has a mix
nightlife that offers four floors of stand-up comics, comedy
of R&B, pop, electro, or house sketches and singers. Often
Dancing (when its not hosting a special adorned with year-round
New Yorkers thrive on music event). By comparison, Cielo Christmas lights, the long-
and dancing. The dance is embracing the 21st century. running Pieces heats up
floors available all around This sleek, upscale room aimed most nights of the week
the city range from the ever- mostly at those who love with everything from drag
popular SOBs for jungle, electronica boasts a killer shows to karaoke.
reggae, soul, jazz, and salsa sound system that envelops The very fashionable night-
to a few huge basketball- dancers as they jostle in a clubs and bars for men include
court-sized places, such as sunken living-room dance floor. the trendy, older-skewing up-
Pacha. This legendary club, Those who are seriously town Town House, a piano bar
which started out in Ibiza, has interested in music and with restaurant, and Dont Tell
opened a swanky four-floor dancing head to the Sullivan Mama, a long-established gay
venue in the heart of Times Room, which draws the cream bar that presents good musical
Square and is consistently of techno talent and boasts a revues and spoofs. The gay and
booking top international DJs top-notch sound system and lesbian crowd can enjoy VIP
to make the most of the plenty of seating; or Santos treatment and bottle service
colossal sound system installed Party House, which is basically at the upscale XL Nightclub.
here. This is the place for those two large, square, and black- This midtown haunt provides
who enjoy pounding music, painted rooms, where people an assortment of cabaret
sweaty dance floors, and a go to get wild. Santos is part- performances, as well as
lively crowd. owned by rocker Andrew W.K. colorful themed parties
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  347

and drag bingo. Henrietta
Hudson caters solely to
women, as does the
imaginatively decorated
Cubby Hole, a cozy lesbian
bar where regulars often
sing along to the jukebox.
Magazines such as the
Village Voice and Next have
good listings of whats
happening in the gay
communities, and the Gay
Yellow Pages covers the gay
scene. If you need more
information, phone the Gay
and Lesbian Switchboard.
The Chelsea neighborhood,
particularly around Eighth
Avenue, is the bustling heart
of New Yorks gay life. The Hells
Kitchen area, around
the mid-40s between Eighth
and 10th avenues, also thrums
with gay nightlife Barrage
is a hopping bar featuring a
popular Friday happy hour. The
inviting and stylish G Lounge
serves a potent selection of
cocktails and flavored coffees,
and is the perfect spot for a
drink before hitting the clubs.
Lively Barracuda features
drag shows and draws a diverse
crowd of regulars and
newcomers, while Gym caters
to those into sporting events.
Stonewall Inn, the famed site
of the Stonewall riots and birth
of the modern gay movement,
has undergone a multimillion-
dollar refurbishment. The comfy
neighborhood lounge Posh
pulls in a friendly crowd for the
popular happy hour, 48pm,
while Lips, in Midtown East,
attracts hordes of people with
what it proclaims is the
ultimate in drag dining.

DIRECTORY
Dancing Nightclubs Dont Posh
Tell Mama 405 W 51st St.
bOb Bar Feinsteins
235 Eldridge St. 343 W 46th St. Map 11 C4.
at the Regency
Map 5 A3. Map 12 D5. Tel (212) 957-2222.
540 Park Ave.
Tel (212) 529-1807. Tel (212) 757-0788.
Map 13 A3. Stonewall Inn
Cielo Tel (212) 339-4095. Duplex 53 Christopher St.
18 Little West 12th St.
Joes Pub 61 Christopher St. Map 3 C2.
Map 3 B1.
Tel (212) 645-5700. 425 Lafayette St. Map 3 C2. Tel (212) 488-2705.
Map 4 F2. Tel (212) 255-5438.
Marquee Town House
Tel (212) 539-8778.
289 10th Ave. G Lounge 236 E 58th St.
Map 7 C4. Maries 223 W 19th St. Map 13 B4.
Tel (646) 473-0202. Crisis Map 8 E5. Tel (212) 754-4649.
Pacha 59 Grove St. Tel (212) 929-1085.
618 W 46th St. Map 3 C2. XL Nightclub
Map 12 E5. Tel (212) 243-9323.
Gay and 512 West 42nd St.
Tel (212) 209-7500. Lesbian
Uncle Map 7 C1.
The Park Switchboard
Charlies Tel (212) 239-2999.
118 10th Ave. Tel (212) 989-0999.
139 E 45th St.
Map 7 C5.
Map 13 A5. Gym
Tel (212) 352-3313.
Tel (212) 661-9097. 167 Eighth Ave.
Santos Map 8 D5.
Party House Gay and
Tel (212) 337-2439.
96 Lafayette St. Lesbian
Map 4 F5. Venues Henrietta
Tel (212) 714-4646.
Hudson
SOBs Barracuda 438 Hudson St.
204 Varick St. 275 W 22nd St.
Map 3 C3.
Map 4 D3. Map 8 D4.
Tel (212) 924-3347.
Tel (212) 243-4940. Tel (212) 645-8613.
Sullivan Lips
Barrage
Room 227 E 56th St.
401 W 47th St.
218 Sullivan St. Map 13 B3.
Map 12 D5.
Map 4 D2. Tel (212) 675-7710.
Tel (212) 586-9390.
Tel (212) 252-2151.
Cubby Hole Pieces
Webster Hall
125 E 11th St. 281 W 12th St. 8 Christopher St.
Map 4 F1. Map 3 C1. Map 4 D2.
Tel (212) 353-1600. Tel (212) 243-9041. Tel (212) 929-9291.
348  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Comedy, Cabaret, and

Literary Events at the Beekman Tower Hotel.
The long-distance hummer
From Jack Benny and Woody Allen to Chris Rock and Jerry award goes to the late Bobby
Seinfeld, New York has spawned almost as many comics as Short, who played his piano
it has jokes about itself, including the requisite quips: on for over 25 years at the Caf
crime In New York crime is getting worse. When I was there Carlyle in the Carlyle Hotel.
Now Woody Allen plays there
the other day, the Statue of Liberty had both hands up; and
on select Mondays with Eddy
on driving Always look both ways when running a red light. Daviss New Orleans Jazz Band.
Comedy is a cut-throat business here. This is good news for Also in the Carlyle is
punters, because it means that no matter what comedy club Bemelmans Bar, with its
you walk into, youll be crying with laughter. NYC is also a whimsical murals; it attracts
consummate romancer, judging by its plethora of classic a relaxed crowd who enjoy
first-class crooners.
cabarets and lounges. An unforgettable New York experience
The spirited cabaret Dont
is to be serenaded by a lounge singer in a dusky piano bar. Tell Mama showcases emerging
New York also boasts a booming literary scene, with superb and established performers
weekly readings and lectures. who belt out their songs with
equal gusto. Ars Nova, in Hells
Kitchen, is an informal,
Comedy Showcases Many of the UCBs weekly late anything-goes cabaret where
Many of New Yorks best current shows are free. The Gotham you may see show tunes and
comedy clubs or showcases Comedy Club, in the Flatiron experimental comedy, and
have evolved from earlier District, presents a wide range has attracted the likes of Liza
improvisational comedy. Part of comics in an elegant setting. Minnelli and Tony Kushner.
of the allure of New York comedy Comic Strip Live, on the East Kick back and enjoy the show
clubs is that you never know Side, has hosted a slew of talent, at lively Duplex, the longest-
who might get behind the mic including Eddie Murphy, and running cabaret venue in New
to deliver their spiel. Anyone continues to introduce many York City. Relax to the tinkling of
from Dennis Miller and Roseanne new comics to the scene. The keys at the downstairs piano bar,
Barr to Chris Rock could basement-level Comedy Cellar or head upstairs for superlative
show up. A word of caution: in Greenwich Village presents a classic cabaret shows, one-act
if you dont want to be singled nightly lineup of new and plays, and top-notch comedy.
out and made fun of, sit away established comics. Also good A mixed crowd, including the
from the stage. Many of the are Stand-Up NY and New York talented staff, croons along at
larger comedy clubs offer meals, Comedy Club, which offer Brandys Piano Bar. For a
and at the more popular clubs, multiple comedy shows a night, memorable evening of song
its always a good idea to make as well as reasonably priced and music, head to Feinsteins
reservations to ensure admission. cocktails. The West End Lounge at the Regency Hotel, where
Leading the comedy club and The Laugh Factory are also top-of-the-line performers
pack is the Broadway Comedy good value. The biggest names entertain an appreciative crowd.
Club in the Theater District, often play multiple nights at The Metropolitan Rooms
which has formed from a places such as The Theater at intimate performance space
merger of Chicago City Limits Madison Square Garden and hosts a wide range of shows,
and NY Improv. As the citys Radio City Music Hall. including cabaret acts and
largest club, it draws big international jazz artists.
names nightly. Carolines also
has big-name comics perform Cabarets and Piano Bars
in elegant surroundings. The Cabarets are a New York Literary Events
famous catchphrase of the institution. Such cozy, just-for- and Poetry Slams
bug-eyed New York comedian listening places are often called As the birthplace of some of
Roger Dangerfield was I rooms and are located in hotels. the greatest American writers,
get no respect, but judging Most operate from Tuesday to from Herman Melville to Henry
from the lasting fame of his Saturday (usually with a cover James, and the adopted home
Dangerfields Comedy Club, charge or a drink minimum), of countless others, New York
which draws top acts from and most take credit cards. has long been a writers city. The
around the country, he seems Triad hosts a variety of shows, literary tradition is celebrated
to have gotten respect after all. from stand-up comedy and throughout the year, with
The Upright Citizens Brigade burlesque to modern cabaret readings and talks that take
Theatre has sassy, Chicago-style acts. For a classic piano lounge place at bookstores, libraries,
improvisation on various days with a panoramic Manhattan cafs, and community centers
of the week. view, visit the Top of the Tower across the city. Readings are
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  349

usually free, but expect long
lines for the better-known
names. The 92nd Street Y
hosts readings by some of
the greatest writers to pass
through New York, including
many Nobel- and Pulitzer-prize-
winning authors. Most NYC
bookstores present a weekly
or monthly reading series,
including Barnes & Noble
(the Fifth Avenue and Union
Square branches usually
attract high-profile authors).
The Mid-Manhattan Library
also presents readings, as
does Strand Bookstore. Enjoy
spirited readings by playwrights
at the Drama Book Shop. Check
out The New Yorker magazine,
available in bookstores and at
many newsstands, for current
listings of readings and talks.
Poetry slams (also known
as Spoken Word), are just what
the name implies an evening
of freeform poems, raps, and
storytelling, usually raucous
and entertaining, often
unpredictable, and never
boring. The Nuyorican Poets
Caf in Alphabet City, often
heralded as the progenitor
of spoken word in New York,
serves up a nightly mix of
poetry slams, readings, and
performances. Faculty and
staff at Columbia and CUNY
and writing professionals can
be found at KGB Bars series
of literary events. The Bowery
Poetry Club, established as a
performance space for spoken
word in all its incarnations,
presents an eclectic range
of performances, from poetry
jams to various performance
arts. The Poetry Project at
St. Marks Church also hosts
contemporary poetry readings,
events, and workshops.

DIRECTORY
Comedy Radio City Music Hall Carlyle Hotel Barnes & Noble
Showcases 50th St at Avenue of the 35 E 76th St. 555 Fifth Ave.
Americas. Map 17 A5. Map 12 F5.
Broadway Map 12 F4. Tel (212) 744-1600. Tel (212) 697-3048.
Comedy Club Tel (212) 307-7171. 33 E 17th St.
Dont Tell Mama Map 9 A5.
318 W 53rd St. Stand-up NY 343 W 46th St. Tel (212) 253-0810.
Map 12 E4. 236 W 78th St. Map 12 D5.
Tel (212) 757-2323. Map 15 C5. Bowery
Tel (212) 757-0788.
Tel (212) 595-0850. Poetry Club
Carolines Duplex 308 Bowery.
1626 Broadway. The Theater at
61 Christopher St. Map 4 F3.
Map 12 E5. Madison Square
Map 3 C2. Tel (212) 614-0505.
Garden
Tel (212) 757-4100. Tel (212) 255-5438.
7th Ave & 33rd St. Drama
Comedy Cellar Map 8 E2. Feinsteins at the Book Shop
117 MacDougal St. Tel (212) 465-6741. Regency Hotel 250 W 40th St.
Map 4 D2. 540 Park Ave. Map 8 E1.
Upright Citizens
Map 13 A3. Tel (212) 944-0595.
Tel (212) 254-3480. Brigade Theatre
307 W 26th St. Tel (212) 759-4100. KGB Bar
Comic Strip Live Map 8 D4.
Metropolitan 85 E 4th St.
1568 2nd Ave. Tel (212) 366-9176. Map 4 F2.
Map 17 B4. Room
The West End Tel (212) 505-3360.
34 W 22nd St.
Tel (212) 861-9386.
Lounge Map 8 F4. Mid-Manhattan
Dangerfields 955 W End Ave. Tel (212) 206-0440. Library
1118 1st Ave. Map 20 E5. 455 Fifth Ave at 40th St.
Tel (212) 531-4759. Top of the Tower Map 8 F1.
Map 13 C3.
Beekman Tower Hotel, Tel (212) 340-0833.
Tel (212) 593-1650.
Cabarets and 3 Mitchell Pl.
Piano Bars Map 13 C5. Nuyorican
Gotham
Tel (212) 355-7300. Poets Caf
Comedy Club Ars Nova 236 E 3rd St.
208 W 23rd St. 511 W 54th St. Triad Map 5 B2.
Map 8 D4. Map 12 E4. 158 W 72nd St, 2nd Floor. Tel (212) 505-8183.
Tel (212) 367-9000. Tel (212) 489-9800. Map 11 C1.
Poetry Project
Tel (212) 362-2590.
The Laugh Factory Bemelmans Bar St. Marks Church,
303 W 42 St. 35 E 76th St. 131 E 10th St.
Map 17 A5.
Literary
Map 8 D1. Map 4 F1.
Tel (212) 744-1600.
Events and Tel (212) 674-0910.
Tel (212) 586-7829. Poetry Slams
Brandys Strand
New York Comedy Piano Bar 92nd Street Y Bookstore
Club 235 E 84th St. 1395 Lexington Ave. 828 Broadway.
241 E 24th St. Map 9 B4. Map 17 B4. Map 17 A2. Map 4 E1.
Tel (212) 696-5233. Tel (212) 650-1944. Tel (212) 415-5729. Tel (212) 473-1452.
350  TRAVELERS NEEDS
Late-Night New York
New York is indeed a city that never sleeps. If you wake up
in the middle of the night with a craving for fresh bread,
a need to be entertained, or an urge to watch the sun rise
over the Manhattan skyline there are always plenty of
options to choose from.
Bars
The best and friendliest
bars are often the Irish ones.
OFlanagans or Scruffy Duffys
are both loud, have late-night
dancing, and cater to regulars.
Go for a late-night dry martini
at the Temple Bar. The best
piano bars are in the hotels:
try the Caf Carlyle or, for a less
expensive option, Bemelmans
Bar, both in the Carlyle Hotel,
or the legendary Feinsteins
at the Regency Hotel (see p349).
For hot American jazz until
4am, go to Joes Pub or the Blue
Note. Cornelia Street Caf is a
lively nook for literary readings.
Poetry, theater, and Latin music
can be found at the Nuyorican
Poets Caf. If youre in midtown,
stop in at Rudys for an eclectic
late-night scene and a free hot
dog with each drink purchase.
Midnight Movies
Special midnight showings and
a youthful crowd can be found
at the Angelika Film Center and
Film Forum (see p341). New
multiplexes often show movies
at midnight on weekends.
Shops
Shakespeare & Company
Booksellers on Broadway and
the St. Marks Bookshop are
open until late. The Apple Store
on Fifth Ave is open 24 hours and
well worth a visit at any time of
the day. In the evening, DJs bring
the store to life, while during
the day, more than 300 Mac
specialists are available for training
and consultations. In SoHo, H&M
sells affordable fashion until 9pm
Monday to Saturday and until
8pm on Sundays.
Among the many Village
clothing stores that stay open
late is Trash and Vaudeville
(open to 8pm MonThu, to
8:30pm Fri, and to 9pm Sat);
Macys at Herald Square is open
daily until 9:30pm. For health
essentials, many Duane Reade,
CVS, and Rite Aid pharmacies
are open 24 hours.
Take-Out Food
and Groceries
A few take-out food stores
are open 24 hours a day,
including numerous Gristedes
emporiums and the West Side
Supermarket. Many Korean
greengrocers also stay open
all night. The Food Emporium
is a supermarket chain usually
open until midnight. Liquor
stores are usually open until
10pm and many deliver.
For the best in bagels, go to
Ess-a-Bagel, Bagels On The
Square, and Jumbo Bagels and
Bialys. Many pizzerias and
Chinese restaurants stay open late.
Dining
The trendy set often frequent
Balthazar, and Les Halles for
good French dishes. Twenty-
somethings will seek out the
Coffee Shop for late-night
beer and Brazilian food. Youll
find delicious and legendary
sandwiches at the Carnegie
Deli. Caff Reggio in Greenwich
Village has been a favorite for
late-night coffee and desserts
since 1927. Other good options
include Blue Ribbon and Odeon.
The Dead Poet is a real Upper
West Side neighborhood
hangout, with a jukebox, a lively
bar, and late-night bar food.
Downtown, the party crowds
flock to Bereket Turkish Kebab
House for excellent kebabs, or to
the Moonstruck Diner in Chelsea.
Both are open 24 hours a day.
Sports
There is late-night play at Slate
Billiards until 4am on weekends.
Have late-night beers and
burgers with the university
crowd at Bowlmor Lanes
bowling alley. Also popular is the
Lucky Strike Lanes and Lounge,
featuring cocktails, bowling, and
music in a retro atmosphere.
247 Fitness Club offers a
no-frill gym around the clock.
Services
Out in Queens, Astoria Laundry
is open daily until 11pm for
anyone who needs late-night
laundry or dry-cleaning services.
Hair & Spa Party 24 Hours stays
true to its name by offering
haircuts and manicures around
the clock. Near Koreatown, Red
Market is open for haircuts and
coloring services until 11pm
most nights. Mainly for women,
the no-nonsense Korean
Juvenex Spa provides massages
and saunas at any time. If you
are locked out, try Mr Locks Inc.
For stamps, head to the General
Post Office, open 24 hours. The
UES and UWS branches of the
popular grocery chain Fairway
Market stay open until midnight.
Tours and Views
One of New Yorks most
enjoyable walks is along the
Hudson River at the World
Financial Centers Battery Park
City, open (and safe) at all
hours. Piers 16 and 17 at South
Street Seaport attract strollers
and revelers all night long and
the Harbour Lights restaurant
on Pier 17 is often open until
2am for a middle-of-the-night
pick-me-up. Enjoy the city lights
by taking a Circle Line 2-hour
tour of the nighttime harbor.
Try the Riverview Terrace at
Sutton Place: the benches offer a
peaceful place to watch the sun
rise over the East River, Roosevelt
Island, and Queens. Two of the
most sensational views with
the Manhattan backdrop are
(looking west) from the River
Caf and (looking east) from
the Chart House restaurant.
Take a trip on the Staten Island
Ferry (see p78) to see the Statue
of Liberty and the Manhattan
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  351

skyline in the dawn light, or take
a taxi across Brooklyn Bridge (see
pp8891) to watch the sun rise
over New York Harbor. Go to the
Beekman Tower Hotels Top of
the Tower for some panoramas
of the citys East Side up to 1am.
The ultimate view is from the
Empire State Building: its
observation decks (see pp1389)
stay open until 2am. Top of the
Rocks observation decks (see
p146) are open until midnight.
The Living Room Terrace at the
W Downtown offers expansive
views of the Downtown skyline.
Chteau Stables has rides
in horse-drawn carriages and
Liberty Helicopters run flights
over the city at sunset. If you
want something a little bit
different, try New York Food
Tours multicultural bar-hopping
tour. And if you still cant sleep,
stroll along the Upper West Side
and grab a couple of hot dogs
at the famous Grays Papaya.

DIRECTORY
Bars Macys Coffee Shop Juvenex Spa
See pp1367. See p306. 25 W 32nd St, 5th Floor.
Blue Note Map 8 F3.
See p345. RiteAid Pharmacy The Dead Poet Tel (646) 733-1330.
See p365. 450 Amsterdam Ave.
Carlyle Hotel Map 15 C4. Mr Locks Inc.
Trash and Vaudeville Tel (866) 675-6257.
See p349. Tel (212) 595-5670.
See p316.
Cornelia Street Caf Les Halles Red Market
29 Cornelia St. Map 4 D2. Take-Out Food See p306. 13 E 13th St. Map 5 A1.
Tel (212) 989-9318. and Groceries Moonstruck Diner
Tel (212) 929-9600.

Joes Pub Bagels On The Square 400 W 23rd St.
See p345. 7 Carmine St. Map 4 D3.
Tel (212) 691-3041.
Nuyorican Poets Caf
236 E 3rd St. Map 5 A2. Ess-a-Bagel
Tel (212) 505-8183. 831 3rd Ave. Map 13 B4.
Tel (212) 980-1010.
OFlanagans
359 1st Ave.Map 9 C4.
1215 1st Ave. Map 13 C2.
Tel (212) 260-2252.
Tel (212) 439-0660.
Gristedes Food
Rudys Tel (212) 206-1504.
Emporium
627 9th Ave. Map 12 D5.
262 W 96 St and
Tel (646) 707-0890.
Broadway. Map 15 C2.
Scruffy Duffys Tel (212) 663-5126. Map 4 E1.
743 8th Ave. Map 12 D5. One of many branches.
Tel (212) 245-9126. Jumbo Bagels
and Bialys
Temple Bar
1070 2nd Ave. Map 13 B3.
332 Lafayette St. Map 4
Tel (212) 355-6185.
F4. Tel (212) 925-4242.
West Side Market
Shops 2171 Broadway. Map 15
C5. Tel (212) 595-2536.
Apple Store
767 5th Ave. Map 12 F3.
Dining
Tel (212) 336-1440.
Balthazar
CVS Pharmacy
80 Spring St. Map 4 E4.
158 Bleecker St. Map 4
Tel (212) 965-1414.
D3. Tel (212) 982-3133.
Bereket Turkish
Duane Reade
Kebab House
Drugstores 187 E Houston St. Map 5
224 W 57th (Broadway). A3. Tel (212) 475-7700.
Map 12 D3.
Tel (212) 541-9708. Blue Ribbon
1279 3rd Ave at E 74th St. See p294.
Map 17 B5. Caff Reggio See p137.
Tel (212) 744-2668. 119 MacDougal St. Map 4
D2. Tel (212) 475-9557.
H&M
558 Broadway. Map 4 E4. Carnegie Deli
Tel (212) 343-2722. See p306.
Tours and Views
Map 7 C4.
Tel (212) 752-1711. Battery Park City
West St. Map 1 A3.
Odeon
See p296. Beekman Tower Hotel
1st Ave & 49th St.
Sports Map 13 C5.
Tel (212) 355-7300.
247 Fitness Club
47 W 14th St. Map 4 D1. Chart House
Lincoln Harbor, Pier D-T,
Weehawken, NJ.
Bowlmor Lanes
Tel (201) 348-6628.
110 University Pl.
Chteau Stables
Tel (212) 255-8188. 608 W 48th St. Map 15 B3.
Tel (212) 246-0520.
Lucky Strike Lanes
and Lounge Circle Line
624660 West 42nd St. W 42nd St. Map 15 B3.
Map 7 B1. Tel (212) 563-3200.
Tel (646) 829-0170. Grays Papaya
Slate Billiards Broadway at 72nd St.
See p353. Map 11 C1.
Tel (212) 260-3532.
Services
Harbour Lights
Astoria Laundry 89 South St Seaport.
Pier 17. Map 2 D2.
2317 31st St, Queens.
Tel (212) 227-2800.
Tel (718) 274-2000.
Liberty Helicopters
Fairway Market
Tel (212) 487-4777.
2127 Broadway. Map 15
C5. Tel (212) 595-1888. Living Room Terrace
240 E 86th St. Map 17 B3. W Downtown, 123
Tel (212) 327-2008. Washington St. Map 1 B3.
Two of several branches. Tel (646) 826-8600.
General Post Office New York Food Tours
Tel (347) 559-0111.
Hair & Spa Party River Caf
24 Hours 1 Water St, Brooklyn.
450 Park Ave S. Map 9 A3. Map 2 F2.
Tel (212) 213-0052. Tel (718) 522-5200.
352  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Horse Races
Sports A day at the races may not
Many New Yorkers are ardent sports fans, and youll find be quite the lavish affair it
a range of sports events, both to watch and participate in, once was, but the high-stakes
going on throughout the year. The city boasts two professional races still draw the society
crowd hats, summer dresses
baseball teams, two hockey teams, a basketball team, and
and all along with lively
two football teams. Madison Square Garden plays host crowds who have come to
to an extraordinary variety of spectator sports, including cheer, jeer, and bet on their
basketball, hockey, boxing, and track and field events. Tennis lucky horse. Harness racing, in
fans can take in the US Open tournament every August and which horses pull sulkies (small
September in Queens, and those who follow track and field carts), takes place year-round
at the Yonkers Raceway. Flat
events swarm to the Millrose Games, where top runners and races are held daily, except
other athletes compete. Tuesday, October to May, at
the Aqueduct Race Track in
Tickets DiMaggio and Jackie Robinson. Queens, and May to October
The easiest way to get hold of The New York Mets, the other at the Belmont Park Race
tickets is through Ticketmaster. major baseball team, play at Track in Long Island.
For the big games, you may Citi Field in Queens. Catching
need a ticket agent or an online a game of Americas favorite
ticketing reseller like StubHub!, pastime on a crisp summer Ice Hockey
which is far safer to use than day is a memorable event. If Fists and ice fly when the
a scalper outside the venue. you can, try and catch a game New York Rangers meet
You can also buy tickets at the when the Yankees are playing their competition at Madison
stadium box office itself, though their archrivals, the Boston Red Square Garden. Two other
these tickets often sell out Sox. The baseball season runs National Hockey League
quickly. Finally, keep your AprilOctober. teams call the metro area
eyes peeled for ticket offers home: the New York Islanders
in the free weeklies that are play on Long Island at the
distributed throughout town. Basketball Nassau Coliseum, and the
The NBA season runs New Jersey Devils play in the
NovemberJune. The New York modern Prudential Center
Football Knicks play their home games at in Newark. The hockey season
The citys two professional Madison Square Garden; tickets runs OctoberJune,
football teams are the New York are pricey and difficult to attain, depending on playoffs.
Giants and the New York Jets. so reserve them far in advance
They both play their home through Ticketmaster or an
games across the river at the online ticketing reseller. The Ice Skating
MetLife Stadium in New Jersey, Brooklyn Nets are the only major There are a variety of good
which hosted the 2014 Super professional sports team in the places to go ice skating out
Bowl the first time the NYC borough; home matches are of doors. One is the Rockefeller
area was the site of the big held at the gleaming Barclays Plaza Rink, which looks
game. Tickets for the Giants, a Center. The ever-popular beautiful at Christmas. The
team with many NFL and Super Harlem Globetrotters also play others are in Central Park:
Bowl championships under their their games at the Garden. Wollman Rink and Lasker Ice
belt, are very difficult to obtain, Rink. For indoor sites, try the Sky
but they may be available for Rink at Chelsea Piers.
the Jets, seen by some as Boxing
perpetual also-rans but no less Professional boxing matches are
beloved by their fans. Their last occasionally held at Madison Marathon
championship win was in 1969. Square Garden and Brooklyns To be one of the 45,000 who
Barclays Center, which is home enter the New York Marathon,
to the Daily News Golden you have to sign up six months
Baseball Gloves in mid-April, the largest in advance. The race is held on
To capture the essence of this and oldest amateur boxing the first Sunday in November.
American institution, baseball tournament in the US, with Visit tcsnycmarathon.org for
fans should try to see the famed boxers from New Yorks five information.
New York Yankees, who play at boroughs competing. Past
Yankee Stadium. The teams Golden Glove winners, many
legendary accomplishments of whom have gone on to Tennis
include winning the most World become world champions, The top tennis tournament
Series titles and boasting such have included Sugar Ray in New York is the US Open,
celebrated players as Joe Robinson and Floyd Patterson. played each August at the
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  353

National Tennis Center.
If you want to play tennis
rather than watch it, look in
the telephone directory under
Tennis Courts: Public and
Private. For private courts,
you can expect to pay about
$5070 an hour. The Manhattan
Plaza Racquet Club offers both
courts and lessons by the hour.
For public courts, you will need
a $50 permit, available from the
NY City Parks & Recreation
Department. You will also
need an identity card and a
reservation coupon.
Track and Field
The Millrose Games, which
draws top athletes from
around the world, are normally
held in early February at the
Washington Heights Armory.
The 100-meter sprint, pole
vault, and high jump
competitions are particularly
exciting. Chelsea Piers also
has a complete track and field
complex, plus myriad activities
such as bowling and a golf
driving range.
Sports Bars
New York City is crammed with
sports bars, often unmissable
for their big screens, sports
banners, and cheering (or
booing), beer-guzzling patrons.
For a slice of American sports
life, step into a sports bar when
a big game is on, and youll
soon be whooping it up with
the rest of them. The Village
Pourhouse, Professor Thoms,
and Croxleys Ales, all in the
East Village, offer a plethora of
screens so that you can follow
the action no matter where you
are. Bounce, on the Upper East
Side, is a boisterous sports
lounge with drinks specials
through the week. Bar None and
Lunasa Bar are also favorites,
and for soccer try the amiable
Nevada Smiths in the East
Village, with friendly, Guinness-
fueled crowds.
Other Activities
In Central Park, options include
renting rowboats from Loeb
Boathouse or playing chess
pick up the pieces from The
Dairy (see p210). Rent
rollerblades at Blades and
have a free lesson on stopping
at Central Park before making
a circuit. Bowling is available
at Chelsea Piers and a few
other lanes throughout the
city. Slate Billiards and many
bars offer pool and darts.

DIRECTORY
Aqueduct Race Track Citi Field
Ozone Park, Queens. 126th St at Roosevelt Ave,
Tel (718) 641-4700. Flushing, Queens.
Tel (718) 507-8499.
Bar None
98 3rd Ave. Croxleys Ales Tel (516) 794-9303.
Map 4 F1. 28 Ave B. Map 5 B2.
Tel (212) 777-6663. Tel (212) 253-6140.
Barclays Center Lasker Ice Rink
Central Park Drive East at
620 Atlantic Ave,
Brooklyn. 108th St. Map 21 B4.
Tel (212) 359-6387. Tel (212) 534-7639.
Belmont Park Loeb Boathouse
Race Track Central Park. Map 16 F5.
Hempstead Turnpike, Tel (212) 517-2233.
Long Island. Lunasa Bar
Tel (718) 641-4700. 126 1st Ave. Map 5 A2.
Tel (212) 228-8580.
Blades
156 W 72nd St. Madison Square
Map 12 D1. Garden
Tel (212) 787-3911. 7th Ave at 33rd St. Map 8
Bounce E2. Tel (212) 465-6741.
1403 Second Ave. thegarden.com
Map 13 B1. Manhattan Plaza
Tel (212) 535-2183. Racquet Club
450 W 43rd St.
Chelsea Piers Sports
& Entertainment Map 7 C1.
Tel (212) 594-0554.
Complex
Piers 5962 at 23rd St & MetLife Stadium
11th Ave (Hudson River). 1 MetLife Stadium Dr, East
Map 7 B45. Rutherford, NJ. 219 2nd Ave.
Tel (212) 336-6000. Tel (201) 559-1515.
chelseapiers.com metlifestadium.com Tel (212) 260-9480.
Tel (516) 560-8200. Prudential Center
newyorkjets.com 25 Lafayette St, Newark.
Tel (973) 757-6000.
Nassau Coliseum prucenter.com
1255 Hempstead Turnpike.
Slate Billiards
54 W 21st St.
nassaucoliseum.com
Map 8 E4.
National Tel (212) 989-0096.
Tennis Center
StubHub!
Flushing Meadow Park, stubhub.com
Queens.
Ticketmaster
Tel (718) 595-2420.
Tel (212) 307-4100.
usta.com
ticketmaster.com
Nevada Smiths Village Pourhouse
74 3rd Ave. Map 4 F1. 64 3rd Ave. Map 4 F1.
Tel (212) 982-2591. Tel (212) 979-2337.
NY City Parks Washington Heights
& Recreation Armory
216 Fort Washington Ave.
Department
Tel (212) 923-1803.
Arsenal Building,
64th St & 5th Ave. Wollman Rink
Map 12 F2. Central Park,
Tel (212) 408-0100. 5th Ave at 59th St.
nycgovparks.org Map 12 F2.
Tel (212) 439-6900.
Plaza Rink
1 Rockefeller Plaza, 5th Ave. Yankee Stadium
161st and 164th sts,
Map 12 F5.
The Bronx.
Tel (212) 332-7654.
Tel (718) 293-4300.
Professor Thoms Yonkers Raceway
Yonkers, Westchester
Map 4 F1. County.
Tel (914) 968-4200.
354  TRAVELERS NEEDS

Fitness and Wellbeing several courses in the boroughs,

such as Pelham Bay Park in the
New York City may be (in)famous for its concrete, crowds, Bronx and Silver Lake Golf
and cacophony, but the urban jungle is a boon for sports Course on Staten Island.
and fitness aficionados. A host of possibilities beckon, from
pedaling on the sun-washed riverfront and jogging under Jogging
the shadow of Manhattans signature skyline at the Central Some parks are safe for
Park Reservoir to scaling a soaring climbing wall at one of joggers, others are not, so
the citys many upscale gyms, indulging in a massage at be guided by your concierge.
gorgeous spa strewn with rose petals, and finding your None is safe after dark, at
inner Om in the lotus position at a yoga class. dusk or before dawn. The
most popular and beautiful
route is around the reservoir
Cycling or pump iron. Most major in Central Park. The NY Road
Theres nothing like being stuck hotels have fitness centers. Runners on 89th Street have
in midtown traffic to make you Many commercial gyms and weekly running clinics and
long for pedaling the open road. health clubs are open only races, as does Chelsea Piers
While Manhattan may be one of to members, but an increasing Sports & Entertainment
the most crowded islands on number of gyms now offer day Complex.
the planet, it offers a surprising passes. Check out the Chelsea
75 miles (120 km) of bike trails. Piers Sports & Entertainment
At the last count, Manhattan Complex on Piers 5962 near Pilates
boasted more than 110,000 Hudson River; theres something All you have to lose are your
everyday cyclists. One of the for everyone at this enormous love handles. Work your abs
most pleasant places to cycle facility. Its one-stop shopping and torso for lean, toned
is in Central Park during the at the multilevel May Center muscles at a Pilates class. The
weekend, when its closed to for Health, Fitness, and Sport philosophy behind Pilates is
cars. Bikes may be rented from at the 92nd Street Y, with based on the premise that the
Central Park Bike Rentals on exercise studios, weight- bodys core is the powerhouse
Columbus Circle. If you would training, racquetball courts, a for the peripheral parts of the
like to feel the river breeze in boxing room, and an indoor body. Challenge your muscles
your hair, pedal the well- track. Day passes start at around at a Grasshopper Pilates
maintained bike path along $35. With its well-maintained class, which is taught by a
the West Side Highway that gym along with an array of professionally trained dancer
runs parallel to the Hudson personal diet and exercise in a TriBeCa loft. Power Pilates
River, or hit the bike trails in programs, the Julien Farel also hold strengthening classes
Riverside Park. On summer Restore Spa at the Regency throughout the city.
weekends, the paths can get Hotel on Park Avenue lives
exasperatingly congested, but up to its promise to be your
if you go early or late in the day, health and fitness oasis when Yoga
or in the winter months, you youre away from home. Its easier to get in touch
can often coast solo. You can enjoy a wide range your spiritual center when
The friendly folks at Bicycle of activities at YMCA (one in you can do it in a place like
Habitat on Lafayette Street West Side and the other on the airy Exhale Mind Body
rent bikes and dole out tips 47th Street) fitness centers. Spa on Madison Avenue,
on getting around New York The state-of-the-art training with its high ceilings and
by bike. equipment, a number of hard-wood floors. Journey
gymnasiums, swimming pools, into the Core, Ride the Vinyasa
aerobics studios, running/ Wave, and Dance into Trance
Fitness Centers, Gyms, walking tracks, and various at a variety of yoga sessions,
and Health Clubs courts for different games, the ideal antidote to the citys
In New York, a weekly workout add to your enthusiasm of madness. And, lest you should
has become almost de rigueur working out. The center also think yoga isnt enough of a
for even the most extreme has special programs for elderly workout, then you havent
workaholics. Gyms and health people designed to suit their tried the core fusion power
clubs have sprouted across the physical stature for a healthy life. pack abs session. Fluid Fitness
city to accommodate the on Sixth Avenue offers an
demand, and serious sweating introduction to Gyrotonic
goes on at all hours, day and Golf training, a workout that follows
night. The options are endless: Practice your swing at Randalls the principles of yoga while
Get your aggression out with Island Golf Center on Randalls using fluid exercises and non-
a punch bag, increase your Island, or the Chelsea Golf Club linear circular motion to
heart rate on the stairmaster, at Chelsea Piers. The city owns strengthen the core.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N N E W YO R K C I T Y  355

Spas is scrubbed with ground rice at the Surfside 3 Maritime

Pamper yourself at one of
New York Citys choice spas and
youll emerge fresh as a daisy
and ready to take on the urban
jungle once again. Most spas
offer packages where you can
enjoy several treatments at a
lower price. If youre traveling
with your significant other,
bond over a couples massage.
The intoxicating wafts of
incense that greet you at the
front door of the fragrant, low-
lit CLAY Health Club + Spa are
just a hint of the luxurious
massage that awaits within.
At the comfy, casual Oasis
Day Spa, on Park Avenue, select
from six aromatherapy massages
in aromas of uplift, refresh,
balance, passion, calm, or relief.
Mens specials include a Dead
Sea salt scrub, an algae facial, or
a muscle meltdown massage.
For a slice of heaven, Bali style,
disappear into the Acqua
Beauty Bar on 14th Street and
enjoy a botanical purifying facial,
orchid pedicure, or Indonesian
ritual of beauty, where your skin
and kneaded with fragrant oils.
Enter Bliss on 57th Street and
youll soon discover that theres
nothing a carrot and sesame
body buff or fully loaded facial
cant cure. Top it off with a
decadent double chocolate
pedicure, accompanied by a
cup of creamy cocoa. Pure bliss.
Celebrities including Antonio
Banderas and Kate Moss swear
by Mario Badescu on 52nd
Street, whose facials and body
scrubs, including the fresh
fruit body scrub, with plump
raspberries and strawberries,
are as legendary as the beauty
products, which are perfect to
bring home as gifts.
Swimming
Many Manhattan hotels have
pools with free access during
your stay. It is also possible to
purchase a day pass to use a
hotel swimming pool and
facilities for example, at Le
Parker Meridien (see p287).
You can also swim and surf
Center at Chelsea Piers. For
a day trip, go to Jones Beach
State Park (see p257) along
Long Islands shoreline.
Indoor Sports
Chelsea Piers has it all: roller
rinks, bowling, indoor soccer,
basketball, rock-climbing walls,
fitness centers, golf, a field
house for gymnastics, sports
medicine, spa centers, and, of
course, swimming pools. This
huge complex, which is spread
over four old West Side piers, is
open to everyone.
Apart from providing fitness
centers, gymnasium facilities,
and indoor sports activities, the
Vanderbilt YMCA also offers
exercise, balance, and flexibility
classes; organizes day trips;
special events; and sports and
volunteer opportunities. If you
are planning an adventurous
day out for your children with
fitness on the agenda or for
burning extra calories, then
the club is worth a visit.

DIRECTORY
Cycling May Center for Jogging Spas
Health, Fitness, and
Bicycle Habitat NY Road Runners Acqua Beauty Bar
Sport at the 92nd
244 Lafayette St. 9 E 89th St. 7 E 14th St. Map 8 F5.
Street Y
Map 4 F3. Map 17 A3. Tel (212) 620-4329.
1395 Lexington Ave.
Tel (212) 431-3315. Tel (212) 860-4455.
Map 17 A2. Bliss
Central Park Bike Tel (212) 415-5729. 19 E 57th St. Map 12 F3.
Rental Pilates Tel (212) 219-8970.
348 W 57th St. YMCA West Side One of several locations.
1395 Lexington Ave.
Grasshopper Pilates
Map 12 D3.
515 Broadway. CLAY Health Club +
Tel (212) 664-9600. Map 17 A2.
Map 4 E4. Spa
Tel (212) 415-5500.
Fitness Centers, Tel (212) 431-5225. 25 W 14th St.
Gyms, and Health Map 4 D1.
Golf Power Pilates
Clubs Tel (212) 206-9200.
920 3rd Ave, 6th Floor.
Pelham Bay Park Mario Badescu
Chelsea Piers Sports Map 13 B3.
The Bronx, 870 Shore Rd. 320 E 52nd St.
& Entertainment Tel (212) 627-5852.
Tel (718) 885-1461. Map 13 B4.
Complex Tel (800) 223-3728.
Piers 5962 at 23rd St & Randalls Island Yoga
11th Ave (Hudson River). Golf Center Oasis Day Spa
Exhale Mind Body 1 Park Ave.
Map 7 B45. Randalls Island.
Tel (212) 336-6000.
Spa Map 9 A2.
Map 22 F2.
chelseapiers.com 980 Madison Ave. Tel (212) 254-7722.
Tel (212) 427-5689.
Map 17 A5. One of two locations.
Julien Farel Restore Silver Lake Golf Tel (212) 561-6400.
Spa at the Regency Course Indoor Sports
Hotel Fluid Fitness
540 Park Ave. 915 Victory Blvd, 1026 6th Ave. Vanderbilt YMCA
Map 13 A3. Staten Island. Map 8 E1. 224 E 47th St. Map 13 B5.
Tel (212) 888-8988. Tel (718) 447-5686. Tel (212) 278-8330. Tel (212) 756-9600.
356  TRAVELERS NEEDS

CHILDRENS NEW YORK CITY

Young visitors soon catch the contagious
excitement in the air in New York. Attractions
for all ages abound, and plenty are designed
especially for children. More than a dozen
theater companies, two zoos, and plenty of
imaginative museums are aimed at the
young, backed up with special events at
many museums and parks. The chance to visit
a TV studio is a treat, and New Yorks own Big
Apple Circus is a perennial delight. With more
to do than can ever be squeezed into a single
visit, youll never hear the cry Im bored!
Best of all, theres no need to spend a
fortune to have fun.

available from the New York boarders and in-line skaters

Convention and Visitors Bureau who cruise around the traffic-
(see p360). Weekly listings can be free park every weekend.
found in New York magazine or
Time Out New York.

New York Adventures

A young visitor imitating the Statue
of Liberty
Practical Advice
New York is family-friendly. Many
of its hotels allow children in par-
ents rooms free, and will supply
cots or cribs if needed. Most
museums charge half price or
less for children, while others are
free. Children under 44 in (112
cm) also ride free on subways
and buses when accompanied
by an adult. Travel between 9am
and 4pm to avoid rush hours.
Supplies such as diapers and
medicines are readily available,
and the Rite Aid Pharmacy (see
p365) is open 24 hours a day.
Finding changing tables in
public toilets is less easy, but no
one objects if a counter is used.
Best bets are the facilities in
libraries, hotels, and department
stores. Most hotels will arrange
babysitters; try Baby Sitters
Guild or Pinch Sitters.
To find out more about the
range of current activities for
children, get a copy of the free
quarterly calendar of events,
The city can seem like a giant
amusement park for youngsters.
Elevators whisk you sky-high for
birds-eye views from atop the
worlds highest buildings. You
can set sail on the classic Circle
Line tour around Manhattan;
the sailboat Pioneer (see p85),
or charter your own paddle-
wheeler from the marina at E.
23rd St; or the free round trip
on the Staten Island Ferry (see
p78). The Roosevelt Island Tram
(see p183) is a Swiss cable car
offering an airborne ride over
the East River. Central Park (see
pp20611) is a source of rides of
every kind from the old-
fashioned charm of the carousel
to real horseback and ponycart
rides. Children who prefer a
faster pace can join the skate-
Skating with Santa at Rockefeller Center
Cooling o in a playground in Central Park
Museums
While many of New Yorks
museums appeal to all ages,
some are designed just for the
young. High on the list are the
Childrens Museum of Art (see
p109), where kids can paint and
sculpt, and the Childrens
Museum of Manhattan (see
p221), a multimedia world in
which children produce their
own videos and newscasts.
Farther afield are the Staten
Island Childrens Museum,
where a huge climb-through
anthill is one of the
favorite items, and the
Brooklyn Childrens
Museum (see p249).
The Intrepid Sea-Air-
Space Museum (see
p151) is a real aircraft
carrier. Finally, dont
miss the dinosaur
display at the
American Museum
of Natural History
(see pp21819).
Outdoor Fun
In summer, all of New
York comes out to
play. Central Park is a
childs wonderland,
from skating rinks to
boating lakes, bicycle
 CHILDRENS NEW YORK CITY  357

paths to miniature golf. The DIRECTORY

park offers free entertainment
such as guided walks by park Practical Advice
rangers on Saturdays, toy sail- Baby Sitters Guild
boat races and summer story- Tel (212) 682-0227.
telling. The Central Park Wildlife
Pinch Sitters
Center and the Tisch Childrens Tel (212) 260-6005.
Zoo are favorites.
Children of all ages will be Adventures
fascinated by the Bronx Zoo/
Wildlife Conservation Park, Circle Line
Pier 83, W 42nd St. Map 7 A1.
which is home to over 500 Tel (212) 563-3200.
species (see pp2467).
Coney Island (see p251) is Museums
just a subway ride away. Winter
brings the chance to skate at Staten Island
Rockefeller Center (see p146) or Childrens Museum
1000 Richmond Terr, Staten Is.
in Central Park on a rink fringed Centerpiece clock at toy store F.A.O. Schwarz Tel (718) 273-2060.
with views of skyscrapers.
Shopping
Indoor Fun
There will be no complaints
Indoor Fun about shopping trips if they Big Apple Circus
Tel (212) 268-2500.
New York childrens theater is include the huge F.A.O.
of a quality and variety matching Schwarz or Toys R Us for Chelsea Piers
that for adults. Some favorite a vast range of wonderful Tel (212) 336-6800.
companies are the Paper Bag toys and other items. For Paper Bag Players
Players and Theaterworks more information on other 185 East Broadway. Map 5 B5.
USA, whose shows sell out toystores, see New York Originals Tel (212) 353-2332.
fast; get schedules and on pages 31416. Youngsters Sony Wonder
reserve seats early. are welcomed for storytelling Technology Lab
The Swedish Marionette sessions at Books of Wonder. 550 Madison Ave. Map 13 A3.
Theater in Central Park has Tel (212) 833-8100.
shows at 10:30am and noon Swedish Cottage
Tuesdays through Fridays, and Eating Out Marionette Theater
Saturdays until 1pm. Hamburger-and-pasta joint Tel (212) 988-9093.
The New York City Ballets Ottomanellis Caf is very Theaterworks USA
annual Christmas production of popular with children, and even 151 W 26th St. Map 8 E4.
The Nutcracker at Lincoln Center adults find it hard to finish their Tel (800) 497-5007.
(see p214) opens at the same time huge burgers. The colorful
that the Big Apple Circus sets up SMac, where the specialty is
Shopping
its tent nearby. Ringling Brothers creamy macaroni and cheese, is Books of Wonder
and Barnum & Bailey Circus is in also a hit with youngsters. The 18 W 18th St. Map 8 C5.
action at Madison Square lively Hard Rock Caf is also Tel (212) 989-3270.
Garden (see p137) each spring. popular, and most children F.A.O. Schwarz
Opportunities for youngsters enjoy the foods sold around 767 5th Ave. Map 12 F3.
to work off energy in winter are Chinatown and Little Italy. Drop Tel (212) 644-9400.
many, from indoor skating rinks into the Chinatown Ice Cream Toys R Us
to mini-golf and bowling alleys Factory for some strange and See p314.
at Chelsea Piers. Kids can create wonderful flavors. For a quick
video games, movies, and music hot snack, try pizza by the slice Eating Out
for free at Sony Wonder or pretzels and hot dogs from Chinatown Ice
Technology Lab. street vendors. Cream Factory
65 Bayard St. Map 4 F5.
Tel (212) 608-4170.
Hard Rock Caf
1501 Broadway. Map 8 E1.
Tel (212) 343-3355.
Ottomanellis Caf
1626 York Ave. Map 17 C3.
Tel (212) 772-7722.
SMac
345 E 12th St. Map 5 A1.
Tel (212) 358-7912.
Storytelling session at South Street Seaport
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 360369

Getting to New York City 370375
Getting Around
New York City 376385
360  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
New York is one of the most diverse and
exciting cities in the world. The fast pace
of Manhattan may seem daunting at first,
but there are many services to help tourists,
and you will find the city is safe and easy
to explore. Midtown streets are straight and
mostly laid out in an easy-to-follow grid
pattern. Buses and subway trains (see pp38083)
Skaters at an ice rink in Central Park
When to Go
September and October are
the prize months in New York,
offering warm days, cool nights,
and colorful leaves in the
city parks. Late spring is also
appealing, when the city is less
crowded and humid. Summers
can be unpleasantly hot, but
there are attractions such as
outdoor concerts, plays, and
sporting events to keep visitors
busy. Christmas in the city is
wonderful, although you will
have to share your experience
with thousands of other
tourists. Weather-wise, any
season can be unpredictable;
always pack layers, and be
prepared for changes.
Visas and Passports
All visitors to the United
States require passports valid
for at least six months after
the dates of travel. Citizens of
Great Britain, Australia, New
Zealand, and 32 other countries,
including most EU countries,
do not need visas if they are
staying in the US for 90 days
or less. However, they must
Taxis in Times Square
are reliable and cheap; there are plenty
of cash machines (see p366), and money can
be easily exchanged at banks and hotels.
The wide range of prices offered by the
many hotels (see pp2827), restaurants (see
pp292303), and entertainment venues (see
pp33257) in the city means that your New
York trip can be both fun and affordable.
vegetables, are prohibited
from entering the United
States. Baked items, candy,
chocolate, and cured cheese
are exceptions, as are canned
goods (other than those
containing meat or poultry
products) if being imported
for personal use.
Upon arrival at one of New
Yorks airports, follow signs
stating other than American
passports to immigration
counters, where your passport
will be stamped. Next, reclaim
your bags from the appropriate
area and proceed to a customs
officer, who will examine the
apply and pay for entry online customs declaration that you
via the Electronic System for should have received and filled
Travel Authorization (ESTA). The in on your flight.
ESTA is valid for up to two years
and can be used for multiple
entries into the US (www.esta.
cbp.dhs.gov/).
Canadians must show their
passports when entering the
US by air, and a passport or
an enhanced drivers license
proving citizenship when
arriving by land or sea.
Those requiring a visa should
apply in person at the nearest
US embassy or consulate in
their own country. It is vital
to begin the process early,
allowing sufficient time for
processing the application.
Some services will expedite
the process for a fee. Visit www.
travel.state.gov for more details.
New York tourist information oce
Customs Information Tourist Information
Customs allowances per person Advice on any aspect of life in
when you enter the US are 200 New York City is available from
cigarettes, 100 cigars, or 4.4 lb the New York Convention &
(2 kg) of tobacco; no more than Visitors Bureau, known as NYC
2 pints (1 liter) of alcohol; and & Co. Its 24-hour touch-tone
gifts worth no more than $100. phone service (see p363) offers
Many foods, including fruits and help outside office hours. New

York City has another
free phone and Internet
service, 311, which provides
government information
and non-emergency general
assistance. Calls are answered
by a team 24 hours a day, with
a translation service.
Smoking and Etiquette
It is illegal to smoke in any
public place or building in New
York, including restaurants, and
this law is taken very seriously.
When boarding buses, New
Yorkers generally form a line
rather than pushing to enter.
Subway boarders are not
so polite at rush hours, but
do stand aside to let
passengers exit
before rushing in.
Turning off cell
phones in theaters,
cinemas, and
museums is
expected. Casual
wear is accepted in
many places in New The New York Pass and
York City, but some
establishments may
require formal dress; check
when you make a reservation.
The entrance to the Solomon R.
Guggenheim Museum (see pp19091)
Admission Prices
New York can be expensive
for visitors, though you may
often find a way to avoid high
charges. Museum prices can
run from $12 to $20, but
some galleries, such as the
Metropolitan Museum, call
their charge a suggested
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
Many stores have late opening hours to accommodate workers
donation, leaving it to the
visitor to decide what to pay.
On Friday evenings (Saturdays
for the Guggenheim), the
Museum of
Modern Art, Whitney
Museum, and Folk
Art Museum are
open late and are free will be crowded, as will
or have a pay what
you wish policy. The
Jewish Museum is
free all day Saturday,
while the Brooklyn
CityPASS Museum offers free
art and entertain-
ment on the first Saturday of the city information centers,
month (511pm). Consult local
listings for museums of interest
to you. The New York Pass
and CityPASS (see p362), offer
discounted entry to some
50 attractions.
Opening Hours
Business hours are generally from
9am to 5pm, with no lunchtime
closing. Many midtown stores
stay open until 7pm to accom-
modate people in full-time jobs,
and they may close even later
on Thursdays, at 8:30 or 9pm.
Most stores are also open from
noon to 6pm on Sundays.
Typical banking hours run
from 9am to 6pm, Monday to
Friday; some banks also open
on Saturdays from 9am to 3pm.
ATM machines are available 24
hours for credit and debit card
cash withdrawals (see p366).
Closing days vary for the
major museums, as do the
evenings they are open late,
although most tend to be
closed on a Monday. The
Guggenheim, however, closes
 361
on Thursdays. Phone ahead of
your visit, or check the website,
before planning your itinerary.
New Yorks traffic rush hours
extend roughly from 8 to 10am
and 4:30 to 6:30pm, Monday to
Friday. During these times, every
form of public transportation
pedestrian streets.
Public Bathrooms
New York City does not provide
many public bathrooms. Free
restrooms can be found at
department stores, large
bookstores (such as Barnes
& Noble), and big restaurant
chains (Starbucks, McDonalds),
as well as at hotels. Bathrooms
are also available in train and bus
stations, but these are not the
most pleasant options.
Taxes and Tipping
Sales tax in New York is
8.875 percent, and it is added
to all purchases (including
meals), except for clothing and
shoes under $110. Tipping is an
integral part of New York life: taxi
drivers expect 1015 percent;
cocktail waiters 15 percent, hotel
room service 10 percent (when
not added to the bill); coat
check $1; hotel maids $1 or $2
per day after the first day; hotel
bellhops about $1 per bag;
hairstylists 1520 percent, and
barbers 1020 percent,. Waiters
generally receive 1520 percent,
of the bill, not including tax. A
quick way to calculate restaurant
tips is simply to double the tax,
adding up to about 18 percent.
362  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
City bus with access ramp lowered for a
disabled passenger
Travelers with
Special Needs
All city buses have ramps for
easy access. Subways, however,
are a challenge for the disabled,
as most stations are accessed
via steps from the street. Only
the busiest stops and stations,
such as Grand Central and Penn
stations and the Port Authority
Bus Terminal, have elevators.
A list of accessible stations is
available on the Metropolitan
Transit Authority website
(www.mta.info).
Most hotels, restaurants,
and attractions are equipped
for disabled visitors, but do
check in advance. It is also
wise to ask about accessibility
to the restrooms.
Some museums offer tours for
deaf, blind, or disabled visitors,
and all Broadway theaters have
devices for the hearing-impaired.
The Official Accessibility Guide,
available free from the Mayors
Office for People with
Disabilities, is a great resource,
as is Access for All, published by
Hospital Audiences. Both detail
disabled access at public places
such as museums, landmarks,
theaters, and stadiums.
Senior Travelers
Seniors are welcomed in
New York, and they are eligible
for many offers. They travel half-
fare on all subways and buses
and get discounted prices at
museums, movie theaters, and
many sightseeing attractions.
City buses can lower the entry
steps to make it easier for older
passengers to board.
Gay and Lesbian
Travelers
New York has a large gay and
lesbian population. Gay Pride
Week in June brings celebrants
from around the world for a
big parade, and the Halloween
parade in Greenwich Village
also has a large gay following.
The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual &
Transgender Community
Center is a good first stop for
general information. Christopher
Street in Greenwich Village is the
proud birthplace of New Yorks
gay scene. Eighth Avenue around
Chelsea is the epicenter of
activity today, with Hells Kitchen
and the East Village increasingly
popular; Park Slope in Brooklyn
is a hot spot for the lesbian
community. Next (www.next
magazine.com) is a free weekly
publication that can be found
in these areas. The monthly GO
Magazine (www.gomag.com)
covers the lesbian scene, and
Time Out New York (see p369)
and the New York magazine
website (www.nymag.com)
have gay and lesbian listings.
Sign for the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & also presents free concerts. In
Transgender Community Center
and the Metropolitan Opera are
Student Travelers
Many museums and theaters
in New York offer discounted
admission for students. To receive request tickets in advance. The
this, however, you will need to
show proof of your student status. is good value for those who
An International Student Identity plan to do a lot of sightseeing.
Card (ISIC) can be purchased
quite cheaply, provided you have
the right credentials, from STA
Travel, which has two branches
in New York. At the same time,
ask for a copy of the ISIC Student
Handbook, which lists places
and services that offer discounts
to card-holders, including
selected accommodations,
various museums, tours, theaters,
attractions, nightclubs,
and restaurants.
Although it is very difficult to
obtain permission to work in the
US, students are eligible to work
as part of exchange programs or
as interns. Again, STA Travel can
provide you with further details.
Note that the minimum age
for drinking in New York is 21,
and patrons may be asked for
proof of age.
International Student Identity Card
Traveling on a Budget
There are many ways to take
advantage of the best of New
York while on a budget. The
TKTS booth (see p332), near
Times Square, offers half-price
admission to same-day Broad-
way shows, while pre-theater
prix-fixe meals save on dining.
The David Rubenstein Atrium,
across from Lincoln Center (see
p216), offers discount tickets
for same-day performances,
in addition to a free concert in
the Atrium itself on Thursdays
at 8:30pm. The New York
Philharmonic invites visitors
to rehearsals for just $16, and
the Juilliard School (see p216)
summer, free Shakespeare plays
and music by the Philharmonic
per formed in Central Park. Many
TV shows produced in the city
are free to watch live if you
New York Pass, while not cheap,
It offers free entry to over 50
attractions, from museums
to the Empire State Building
and river cruises. The New
York CityPASS gives holders
admission to six must-see
sights in the city.
Time
New York is on Eastern Standard
Time from early November to
mid-March. Eastern Daylight
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  363

Time moves the American Conversion Chart

clock forward 1 hour the rest
of the year.
Add 5 hours for the time in
London, 8 hours for Moscow,
14 hours for Tokyo, and 16
hours for Sydney.
Electrical Appliances
All American electric current
flows at a standardized 110 to
120 volts AC (alternating current).
You will need to bring an adapter
plug and a voltage convertor that
fits standard US electrical outlets.
US plugs have two flat prongs.
Most New York hotels provide
wall-mounted electric hairdryers
in bathrooms. In addition, some
hotels have wall plugs capable of
powering both 110- and 220-volt
electric shavers, but little else
not even radios. It can, in fact, be
dangerous to connect anything
more powerful.
Some New York hotel
rooms provide coffeemakers;
however, most have radios and
clocks, and a large number have
iPod docking stations. If you
require an iron and ironing
board, but they are not in the
room, ask room service.
Bear in mind that 1 US pint (0.5
liter) is a smaller measure than 1
UK pint (0.6 liter).
Imperial to Metric
1 inch = 2.5 centimeters
1 foot = 30 centimeters
1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
1 ounce = 28 grams
1 pound = 454 grams
1 US pint = 0.5 liter
1 US gallon = 3.8 liters
Metric to Imperial
1 millimeter = 0.04 inch
1 centimeter = 0.4 inch
1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
1 kilometer = 0.6 mile
1 gram = 0.04 ounce
Responsible Tourism
New York is increasingly aware
of green issues. Proper recycling
bins, with separate areas for
paper and plastic, are widely
available. Most hotels encourage
guests to be ecologically aware
and not request fresh towels
every day. Shoppers tend to carry
reusable cloth shopping bags,
which are sold in almost every
department store and super-
Fresh local produce for sale at one of New
Yorks Greenmarkets
market. Most markets carry
organic foods, and the citys
many neighborhood
Greenmarkets are popular
sources of locally grown produce.
The Greenmarket at Union
Square (Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat)
is one of the best. Opening
times vary.
You can contribute to these
green efforts by patronizing
restaurants that use locally
grown produce. 5 Points
and Gramercy Tavern are two
popular restaurants that have
been given the Slow Food
NYC seal of approval.

DIRECTORY
Embassies and Tourist Mayors Office 2871 Broadway.
Consulates Information for People with Map 20 E4. Tel (212) 865-
Disabilities 2700. statravel.com
Australia 311
Tel (212) 788-2830.
150 E 42nd St. Map 9 A1. Tel 311. nyc.gov/311 Budget Travel
nyc.gov/mopd
Tel (212) 351-6500.
NYC & Co. nycgo.com/free
australianyc.org
810 Seventh Ave. Gay and Lesbian nyc.gov/nyculture
Canada Map 12 E4. Travelers
1251 Sixth Ave at 50th St. Tel (212) 484-1222. Responsible
Map 12 E4. nycgo.com Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual Tourism
Tel (212) 596-1628. & Transgender
canada-ny.org New York CityPASS 5 Points
Community Center
citypass.com/city/ny 31 Great Jones St. Map 4
Great Britain 208 West 13th St.
New York Pass F2. Tel (212) 253-5700.
845 Third Ave. Map 13 B4. Map 3 C1.
newyorkpass.com fivepoints
Tel (212) 745-0200. Tel (212) 620-7310.
restaurant.com
britainusa.com/ny Times Square gaycenter.org
Information Center Gramercy Tavern
Ireland
345 Park Ave. Map 13 A4. 1560 Broadway. Student Travelers 42 East 20th St. Map 9 A5.
Map 12 E5. Tel (212) 477-6777.
Tel (212) 319-2555.
timessquarenyc.org
International Student gramercytaven.com
consulateofireland
Identity Card (ISIC)
newyork.org Greenmarket at
Travelers with isic.org Union Square
New Zealand Special Needs STA Travel Union Square. Map 9 A5.
37 Observatory Circle, NW,
722 Broadway. cenyc.org
Washington, DC, 20008. Hospital Audiences
Tel (202) 328-4800. Tel (212) 575-7676. Map 4 E1. Slow Food NYC
nzembassy.org hospitalaudiences.org Tel (212) 473-6100. slowfoodnyc.org
364  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health
New York is one of the USs safest large cities. There is a good
level of security in the city, the transportation system, and
at airports, and the citys police force is very much in evidence
around Manhattan. As in any major metropolis, there are places
where travelers would be foolish to venture after dark alone,
such as city parks and quiet streets. But if you keep your wits
about you and stick to the following guidelines, you should
enjoy a trouble-free and pleasant visit to New York City.
In the event of loss or theft
of valuables, report all missing
items to the police, or Crime
Victims Hot Line and make sure
you get a copy of the police
report for your insurance claim.
Keep the receipts of expensive
items as proof of possession.
If your passport is stolen,
report the theft immediately
to your consulate (see p363).
Lost or stolen credit cards
should also be reported
promptly so that your account
can be blocked. American
Express (see p367) has offices
in the city where new cards
can be processed quickly, and
New York City police ocers patrolling other card companies can
the streets often provide replacements.
It is always a good idea to
Police separate your credit and debit
The New York City Police cards so that if a wallet is lost,
Department has around-the- you have a backup card.
clock foot, horse, bike, and car
patrols. These are concentrated
in specific areas at critical times What to be Aware of
for instance, the Theater Manhattan has become
District aftershow times. There quite a safe place to roam, but
is also a police presence on the pickpockets do operate and
subways and buses, and this is common sense still rules, as in
reflected in the dramatic drop
in crime statistics.
any big city. Be alert, and walk
as if you know where youre
going. Avoid eye contact and
confrontations with down-and-
outs. If someone asks you for
money, be careful and do not
be drawn into conversation.
It is better to avoid deserted
locations late at night. Even if
there is no actual danger, empty
streets may make you feel
uneasy. Neighborhoods such
as parts of the Lower East Side,
Chinatown, or midtown west of
Broadway bustle through dinner
hours but feel empty after 10pm
or so. The Financial District is
deserted after business hours,
and even the very trendy TriBeCa
and SoHo areas are empty late
at night. Subways stay crowded
until around 11pm, but many
may not be advisable later. If
you cant find or afford a taxi,
try to travel with a group and
keep to the main streets.
Parks are not recommended
after dark, unless there is a
concert or other event. If you
want to go for a jog, ask your
hotel concierge for a map of
safe routes. In crowds, take
precautions to avoid being
pickpocketed.
When walking in the
street, keep your wallet in an
inconspicuous place, never in
a back pocket, and have your
MetroCard or change handy
for bus fares its best not to
have to dig into your purse or
wallet while standing in line.
Never stop to count your money
on the street, and be aware of

Lost and Stolen Property

There is no city-wide lost-
and-found service, but the
Metropolitan Transit Authority
(MTA) (see p383) has a lost-
and-found department for city
buses and subways, and the
Taxi & Limousine Commission
(see p379) will assist passengers
who have left their belongings
in a cab. The lost-and-found
rooms at Grand Central and
Penn train stations are well
managed, with helpful staff. If
you dont know who to contact,
phone 311 for guidance. It is best to travel in groups and stick to the main streets and avenues

Police car
Ambulance
Fire engine
strangers watching at bank
ATMs. Defeat purse snatchers
by carrying your bag with the
clasp facing toward you and the
shoulder strap across your body.
Wise travelers always leave
valuable jewelry at home or
stored at the hotel. Do not allow
anyone except hotel and airport
personnel to carry your luggage
or parcels, and stow your
valuables and camera in a locked
suitcase or a closet safe when
you leave your hotel room.
In an Emergency
If you should be involved in
a medical emergency, proceed
at once to a hospital emergency
room. Dial 411, and ask the
operator to give you the
number of the nearest hospital.
Should you need an ambulance,
telephone 911, and one will
be sent. If you have time and
a choice, avoid the crowded
city-owned hospitals listed
in the Blue Pages telephone
book. Instead, choose one
of the many private hospitals
listed in the Yellow Pages
(see also Directory box). If your
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
travel medical insurance
is in order, you wont Travel insurance is highly
have to worry about
costs, but remember
that national insurance
in other countries is
not valid in the US.
If the situation is not
urgent, ask your hotel
to call a doctor or
dentist to visit you
in your room or to
recommend one. You
can find one yourself
through the NY Hotel
Urgent Medical
Services or NYU Dental
Care. The Beth Israel
Medical Center has an
excellent walk-in clinic,
DOCS. For more general
advice and information,
call Travelers Aid, a
national organization
geared to helping
travelers. Note that the
cost of prescriptions
may be higher than in
your home country.
Hospitals and
Pharmacies
If you must visit a doctor or
hospital, be prepared to under-
go an expensive experience:
some of the citys practitioners
and facilities are among the
best in the country, and they
charge accordingly. The best
way to protect yourself against
large medical costs is with
comprehensive travel insurance.
Note that you will have to pay
and then reclaim the money.
Hospitals accept most credit
cards, but physicians and
dentists are more likely to
want payment in cash.
The city has many 24-hour
pharmacies; some will often fill
a prescription while you wait.
A 24-hour pharmacy, one of several
in the city
 365
Travel Insurance
recommended, mainly
because of the high cost of
medical care. There are many
types and levels of coverage,
with prices dependent on the
length of your trip and the
number of people covered.
Among the most important
features are emergency
medical and dental care, trip
cancellation, baggage and
travel-document loss, and
accidental dismemberment
or death. Many policies will
cover all of these items.
DIRECTORY
Police
All Emergency Services
Tel 911 (or 0).
Crime Victims Hot Line
Tel (212) 577-7777.
In an Emergency
DOCS
55 E 34th St. Map 8 F2.
Tel (212) 252-6000.
One of three branches.
NY Hotel Urgent Medical
Services
Tel (212) 737-1212.
NYU Dental Care
345 E 24th St/First Ave. Map 9 B4.
Tel (212) 998-9800, (212) 998-
9828 (weekends and after 9pm).
Travelers Aid
JFK Airport, Terminal 410.
Tel (718) 656-4870.
Hospitals and
Pharmacies
Duane Reade
4 Times Square, near Broadway.
Map 8 E1. Tel (646) 366-8047.
Midtown Hospital
Emergency Rooms
11th St and Seventh Ave.
Map 3 C1. Tel (212) 604-7998.
NYU Medical Center
560 First Avenue at 33rd Street.
Map 9 C3. Tel (212) 263-5550.
Rite Aid
50th St/Eighth Ave. Map 12 D4.
Tel (212) 247-8384.
St. Lukes Roosevelt
58th St and Ninth Ave.
Map 12 D3. Tel (212) 523-6800.
366  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Banks and Currency

New York is the nations banking center. It has a wealth of local,
regional, and major national banks, plus some retail branches
of the leading foreign banks. HSBC and Barclays are well
represented in the city; the banks of Australia, Canada, Ireland,
Scotland, Japan, and Turkey also all have offices or branches.
Exchange bureaux are located in airports, the major train
stations, and in various locations throughout the city, though
you will probably get a better rate of exchange from a bank. American Express credit cards

and Thomas Cook are widely

Banking
New York banks are generally
open weekdays from 9am to
6pm. Several banks open earlier
or close later in the evening to
suit commuters needs, and
many now stay open on
Saturday 9am3pm. Tellers are
available to help customers
inside the bank, or you can use
a cash withdrawal machine
(ATM). At most banks, all the
tellers will cash travelers checks
and exchange your currency.
ATM (machine) for cash withdrawal
ATMs
Automated teller machines
(ATMs) can be found in most
bank lobbies. They enable you
to obtain American currency
24 hours a day from your bank
account using a debit card.
ATMs usually issue American
bank notes in $20 denomina-
tions. Among the many
advantages of ATMs is the swift,
secure exchange of your money
at the wholesale rate used
between the banks. Bank fees
are generally much lower than
those charged by money-
exchange offices. Before you
leave for New York, ask your
bank which New York City banks
and ATM systems will accept
your bank card and what fees
and commissions will be
charged on each transaction.
Most ATMs are part of either
the Cirrus or the Plus network.
They accept various US bank
cards, MasterCard and Visa
cards, and certain others.
On a more cautionary note,
always be aware of your
surroundings when using an
ATM. Make sure you shield your
PIN and, if available, use a
machine located within the
bank. Be careful when removing
your card at the machine.
Credit Cards and
Travelers Checks
MasterCard, American Express,
Visa, and Diners Club cards are
widely accepted throughout
the United States, regardless of
which company or bank issued
them. These cards can also be
used for purchases, as well as
to obtain cash advances from
ATMs. Before you travel, it is a
good idea to phone your card
provider and inform them that
you will be abroad, or you may
find that your card gets blocked
when you start using it in New
York. Charges may be higher
when using a credit card
check with your bank before
you leave.
In the United States, you can
use a credit card to pay for most
purchases in store and online.
Major expenses such as tours,
travel packages, and expensive
rentals are all best paid for by
credit card. Using a card also
means that you can avoid
carrying large sums of money
around with you.
Travelers checks issued in
dollars by American Express
accepted without a fee by
most department stores, shops,
hotels, and restaurants in New
York. Travelers checks in other
currencies, including sterling,
are not universally accepted.
Major hotels may have cashiers
that will exchange travelers
checks, but more often than
not you will need to visit a
bank. Exchange rates for foreign
currency are printed daily in
The New York Times and Wall
Street Journal and may be
posted in bank windows.
American Express checks may
also be exchanged without a
fee at American Express offices.
Among the most well-
established foreign-exchange
brokers are Travelex Currency
Services Inc. and American
Express. All brokers are listed
in the Yellow Pages under
Foreign Money Brokers.
When you use the services
of a foreign-exchange broker,
you will have to pay a fee,
which will vary widely from
one place to the next. There
will also be a commission.
Banking company Chase
has over 400 locations where
you can exchange money, and
there are scores of hole-in-the-
wall check-cashing shops in
Manhattan. TD Bank also
has branches throughout
Manhattan, many of which
are open on Saturdays and
until 8pm on weekdays. Both
Chase and TD Bank are listed
in the Yellow Pages.
Wiring Money
In emergencies, you can
arrange to have money wired
to you through MoneyGram
or Western Union, though
there is a considerable fee.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  367

Coins DIRECTORY
American coins come in 1- , 5-, 10-, 25- and 50-cent pieces. A gold-
tone $1 coin is also in circulation, as are the state quarters, which Credit Cards and
feature a historical scene on one side. One-dollar coins are not Travelers Checks
popular, however, and you will receive them mainly as change from American Express
vending machines. Each value of coin has a popular name: 25-cent Tel (212) 758-6510.
pieces are called quarters, 10-cent pieces are called dimes, 5-cent americanexpress.com
pieces are called nickels, and 1-cent pieces are called pennies.
Chase
chase.com

Diners Club
dinersclubus.com

MasterCard
Tel (800) 424-7787 (ATM locator).
mastercard.com
1-cent coin 5-cent coin 10-cent coin 25-cent coin TD Bank
(a penny) (a nickel) (a dime) (a quarter) tdbank.com

Thomas Cook
Bank Notes (Bills) thomascook.com/money
The units of currency in the United States Travelex Currency
are dollars and cents. There are 100 cents to Services Inc.
a dollar. Bank notes come in the following Tel (212) 265-6063.
denominations: $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. travelex.com
Security features include subtle color hues and
improved color-shifting ink in the lower right- Visa
1-dollar coin Tel (800) 843-7587. visa.com
hand corner of the face of each note.
Wiring Money
MoneyGram
moneygram.com

Western Union
westernunion.com

1-dollar bill ($1)

5-dollar bill ($5)

10-dollar bill ($10)

20-dollar bill ($20)

50-dollar bill ($50)

100-dollar bill ($100)

368  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media Reaching the Right

The wide use of cellular telephones and the Internet Number
has changed the communications picture in most of the
Six area codes are used in
world, and New York is no exception. Though some public New York: 212, 646, 917 (cell
telephones may still be found in hotel lobbies, they have phones) are for Manhattan;
disappeared from city streets. Visitors will find the city is the other boroughs use
well supplied with mobile telephone stores, Internet cafs, 929, 718, and 347. Calls to
800, 888, 866, and 877
and public access to computers and Wi-Fi. The variety of numbers are free.
readily available local newspapers and magazines makes it To call any number in
easy for visitors to keep up with world news as well as the Manhattan, even in your
latest dining and entertainment options in the city. New same area code, you must
first dial 1.
York 1, the all-local TV outlet found at Channel 1, is a quick To make an international
source for up-to-the minute weather reports and news. direct call, dial 011 followed
by the country code
(Australia: 61; New Zealand:
64; UK: 44), then the city or
area code (minus the first 0)
and the local number.
International directory
Enquiries are on 00.
International operator
assistance is on 01.

Internet
Visitors will find many ways to
access the Internet in New York.
The Times Square Information
Using a laptop in the New York Public Library Center provides free use, as does
the New York Public Library
at its main facilities and all 85
Cell Phones prepaid phone cards from branches. Almost all hotels offer
Visitors who wish to use their newsstands for long-distance the use of computers, but some
own cell phone in the US will calls; they can be bought in hotel business centers can be
need a tri-band phone and a $5, $10, and $25 amounts. expensive. Most hotels also
SIM card that has been set up The cards offer good savings have Wi-Fi, though you may
for roaming. Ask your cell- compared to standard rates. have to pay. (In hotels public
phone provider if you are Most phones are coin-operated areas, however, Wi-Fi is often
unsure whether your phone and take 5-, 10-, and 25-cent complimentary.) FedEx Office
is ready to be used abroad. coins. In some locations the Center locations around town
Note that you are charged for pay phone may belong to an have computer rentals at 30
the calls you receive as well as independent company. The cents per minute. Rates are
for the calls you make. However, independents are often better at Internet cafs.
some cell-phone companies more expensive and less Some, such as the
offer bundles of calls to save reliable. Regulations Internet Garage, stay
costs while you are away. require each public open late into the night;
If you are going to be in New pay phone to post others, like Cycle Caf,
York for some time, buy a SIM information about focus on the snacks and
card for better rates on local charges, toll-free US Postal Service coffee. Expect to pay
calls or rent a telephone. numbers, and how to logo about $6 for 30 minutes.
Cellhire offers rentals at make calls using other The Village Copier has
competitive rates, with multiple carriers. Look for the Verizon computers for rent and offers
pricing options for phone, data, logo on the box to be sure printing and design services.
and overseas usage. the phone will reach all There is free Wi-Fi at all
numbers at standard rates. libraries, Barnes & Noble
Within all boroughs of New stores, and in most city parks
Public Telephones York City, the standard and plazas below 59th Street,
If you can find a public tele- charge, around 25 cents, including Bryant Park and
phone, you will see that the buys 3 minutes talking time. Union Square. Cafs such
setup is standard. Few use International rates for calls as Starbucks have Wi-Fi for
credit cards, but you can buy dialed from a land line vary. around 10 cents per minute.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  369

Postal Services as Time Out New York, New DIRECTORY

The citys main General Post
Office is open 24 hours a day.
Stamps can be bought here,
from branch offices, and from
some drugstores and news-
stands. As well as at post offices,
letters can be mailed at your
hotels concierge desk (which
usually sells stamps too); in
letter slots in office-building
lobbies; and in street mailboxes.
These are usually painted blue,
or red, white, and blue. The
mail is generally not picked up
on Sundays. Post offices are
shown on the Street Finder
maps (see pp3867).
All letters are sent first class.
The post office also offers
several special-delivery services:
Express Mail service, for next-
day delivery; Global Express
Guaranteed, which delivers
overseas in one to three days;
and Express Mail International,
with delivery in three to five
days. Private express services
such as FedEx, UPS, or DHL can
be arranged through hotels.
Online services are available.
Newspapers
and Magazines
New York has one major daily
newspaper, The New York Times,
and two colorful tabloids, The
Daily News and the New York
Post. Two free morning tabloids
are also available, AM New York
and Metro. Both are useful for
local events and a brief run-
down of the news. The best
entertainment listings are found
in the Friday and Sunday
editions of The New York Times
and in weekly magazines such
York, and The New Yorker. The
Village Voice, a free weekly
newspaper, also has entertain-
ment listings, geared largely
to a younger audience.
The free weekly Where
Magazine, distributed through
hotel concierges, lists major
museums, their opening hours,
locations, and any exhibitions.
Art Now/New York Gallery Guide,
also free, is released in art
galleries monthly. It lists current
exhibitions and has maps
showing where they are located.
You can buy foreign news-
papers at Around the World,
Barnes & Noble bookstores,
airports, and some hotels.
Television and Radio
TV program schedules for each
day can be found in the local
dailies. The Daily News on
Sunday has a useful pull-out
section of the next weeks
programs. The choice of TV
stations in New York is vast.
Major networks include CBS on
channel 2, NBC on channel 4,
ABC on channel 7, and WNYW
(Fox) on channel 5. PBS offers
cultural and educational fare
on channel 13. Cable TV offers
everything from the Arts &
Entertainment Network to
sports on ESPN and public-
access programs.
AM radio stations include
WCBS News (880AM), WINS
News (1010AM), and WFAN
Sports (660AM). Some FM
stations are WWFS contem-
porary (102.7FM), WBGO jazz
(88.3FM), and WQXR classical
(105.9FM).
Useful Numbers
Directory Enquiries
Tel 411 or 10-10-9000.
superpages.com
yellowpages.com
Cell Phones
Cellhire
Tel (877) 244-7242.
cellhire.com
Internet
Cycle Caf
250 W 49th St. Map 11 B5.
Tel (212) 333-4109.
FedEx Office Center
fedex.com
Internet Garage
218 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn.
Tel (718) 486-0059.
New York Public Library
5th Avenue and 42nd Street.
Map 8 F1. Tel (212) 939-0653.
Times Square
Information Center
1560 Broadway. Map 12 E5.
timessquarenyc.org
The Village Copier
20 E 13th St. Map 4 F1.
Postal Services
DHL
Tel (800) 782-7892.
FedEx
Tel (800) 225-5345.
General Post Office
421 Eighth Ave. Map 8 D2.
Tel (800) ASK-USPS or
(800) 222-1811.
Priority and Express Mail:
Tel (800) 463-3339.
usps.com

UPS
Tel (800) 742-5877.

Newspapers and
Magazines
Around the World
148 W 37th St.
Map 8 E2.
Barnes & Noble
1972 Broadway at 68th Street.
Map 11 C1.
Express Mail Priority Mail Standard Mail
370  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

GETTING TO NEW YORK CITY

A lot of global airlines run direct flights to
New York. The city is also very well served by
charter and domestic services. Price wars
among airlines have reduced fares, and
domestic flights are an affordable form
of travel. Early reservation and seat selection
are good ways to ensure a more comfortable
flight. New York City is also a regular docking
point for many cruise ships. The train network
across the United States is not as extensive
as that found in Europe, but Amtrak, the
national carrier, has several comfortable and
clean long-distance trains that run from New
York. Interstate and long-distance buses are
a cheaper way to travel and usually have
air-conditioning and on-board toilets. For
information on arriving in New York, see the
map on pages 3745.

be bought at least form and your passport ready

Taxis heading into LaGuardia airport
Air Travel
New York can be reached by
air direct from most major cities.
The flight from London takes
about 8 hours; however, there
are no direct flights from
Australia or New Zealand.
Instead, the airlines fly to
the West Coast or Asia, which
takes around 1014 hours, land,
refuel, and then continue on to
New York.
Allow extra time at the
airport, for both arriving and
departing, and for the careful
passport and security checks
in the United States.
Among the main airline
carriers to New York are Air
Canada, Delta, British Airways,
American Airlines, Virgin
Atlantic, and United Airlines.
All international flights arrive
at either JFK Newark airports.
Tickets and Fares
APEX (Advance Purchase
Excursion) tickets for the
scheduled airlines are usually
the cheapest return fares apart
from package tours. They must
14 days in advance
and are valid for a
stay of 730 days. The
least expensive
international air fares
to and from Europe
are found from
November to March,
excluding holiday
periods. Budget
airlines flying within
the US such as
Southwest Airlines,
JetBlue, and AirTran
often have better
fares than the
major airlines.
Booking online can help
save money. Websites such
as wwwlastminute.com,
www.priceline.com, and
www.expedia.com have flight-
and-hotel deals that tend to be
cheaper than booking the two
separately. Search engines like
www.kayak.com are useful for
comparing the costs of all the
different airlines and online
travel stores.
On Arrival
Be prepared for extra security
precautions when you visit the
United States. Make sure that
you leave ample time for
checking in ask your flight
carrier what time you need to
arrive at the airport for your
flight. They can also give you
details about any restrictions
on hand luggage.
The airline you are flying
with will give you an I-94 form
to fill out before you land. It
asks simple questions such as
your name, birth date, country
of citizenship, passport number,
and current address. Have this
for the Customs and Border
Protection officer who will
inspect your documents (get
in the line that says non-US
passports). The officer may ask
you questions such as why you
are visiting and how long and
where you will stay. Your
fingerprints will be taken, and
you will be photographed with
a digital camera. The I-94 is in
two parts; one part will be for
you to keep. This part must be
returned on departing.
AirTrain en route to JFK
John F. Kennedy
Airport (JFK
Every year, over 40 million
passengers pass through
New Yorks main airport, JFK.
It serves over 100 airlines in
nine terminals and is the main
New York entry for international
flights. JFK lies 15 miles (24 km)
southeast of Manhattan, in
the borough of Queens,
about 4560 minutes from
midtown. However, airport
traffic is often heavy, so the
trip can take longer.
Larger carriers like American
Airlines, British Airways, Delta,
and United Airlines have their
own arrivals and departure
terminals, which they may share
with some of their partners.
Terminal 4 is the main arrival
area for over 50 international

Planes arriving at Newark airport
airlines, and Terminal 1 serves
many foreign carriers, including
Air China, Air France, Alitalia, and
Japan Airlines.
Foreign-exchange offices and
ATMs are located in all terminals,
and each terminal has a service
desk to help book hotels and
answer any transportation
questions. Courtesy phones
are also provided by car-rental
companies.
Dispatchers regulate the
line for the yellow taxis waiting
outside each terminal. There is a
flat fee of $52, plus tolls and tip.
New York Airport Service buses
go to Grand Central, Penn
Station, and the Port Authority;
tickets start at $15. The Express
Shuttle Service ($15) stops at
many midtown hotels.
SuperShuttle runs shared vans
that will go to specific addresses
for about $23 for the first guest
and $10 for each additional
passenger. Advance
reservations are needed for the
trip back to the airport. Air-Link
has a similar service for $20.
Round-trip fares are cheaper.
A light-rail system, AirTrain
JFK, connects to the A train at
Howard Beach, and to the E, J,
and Z trains and Long Island
Rail Road (for Penn Station) at
Jamaica. The AirTrain costs $5;
the subway, $2.50.
If you are feeling rich,
Helicopter Flight Services offer
a 10-minute helicopter ride for
over $1,000 to East 34th Street.
GET TING TO NEW YORK CITY
Newark Liberty
Airport (EWR)
Newark, New Yorks second-
largest international airport,
is about 16 miles (26 km)
southwest of Manhattan,
in New Jersey.
Most international
flights into Newark arrive
at Terminal B. Baggage trolleys
are free for passengers arriving
on international flights.
Foreign-exchange desks
and ATMs can also be found
in the terminal, but there is
no left-luggage room.
The Ground Transportation
Services desk can help arrange
private onward travel. Courtesy
phones are provided by
limousine and car-rental firms.
Many of these have a free shuttle
service to their rental offices.
As with JFK, there are taxi
stands located outside most
arrival areas, and uniformed
taxi dispatchers will help you
hail a cab. The taxi ride into
Manhattan takes about 4060
minutes and will cost you up
to $50, plus tolls and tip.
Olympia Airport Express
buses to Manhattan stop at
the Port Authority Bus Terminal,
42nd Street near 5th Avenue,
and Grand Central Station. The
journey time is no longer than
a cab, but the fare is only $16.
Round-trip fares bring about
an additional discount.
AirTrain Newark takes
approximately 10 minutes to
link to NJ Transit and Amtrak
trains, which then take around
25 minutes to arrive at Penn
station. The total journey costs
about $12 on NJ Transit, or
around $32 on Amtrak.
Terminal at LaGuardia airport
 371
Hotels can be booked on arrival
through courtesy phones in all
terminals at Newark that link
directly to various Manhattan
hotels. Staff are on hand to help
you make the best choice.
LaGuardia Airport (LGA)
LaGuardia is a busy airport
serving domestic carriers from
all over the US. It lies 8 miles
(13 km) east of Manhattan, on
the north side of Long Island, in
Queens. The trip to Manhattan
averages 30 minutes.
Upon arrival, you can rent
luggage trolleys from the
baggage-claim area next to
the luggage carousels. Sky-caps,
people who check in your
luggage for you, are on hand
to assist you. Baggage can also
be left in the Tele-Trip business
center on the departure level. A
foreign-currency exchange desk
and ATMs are located in the
Central Terminal. A free bus
service runs between each
of the terminals and parking
areas from 5am to 2am.
Buses and taxis into the city
and its suburbs depart from the
front of the terminal buildings.
If you are approached by other
taxis offering you transportation,
do not accept. These drivers
have no insurance, and you
will be overcharged. A taxi fare
starts at $2.50 and increases
by $0.40 every fifth of a mile.
A single bus ride is $2.25. The
cost of tolls, plus a peak-hour
surcharge of $1 (48pm)
weekdays or a night surcharge
of 50 cents (8pm6am), will
be added to the taxi fare shown
on the meter.
372  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Ocean liner anchored in Manhattan
Arriving by Sea
Cruising past the Statue of
Liberty into New York harbor is
a thrilling experience. The citys
three cruise ports are popular
stopping-off points for many
major cruise lines sailing to the
Caribbean, Bermuda, Canada,
and Europe.
The main New York Cruise
Terminal, on 12th Avenue
between 46th and 54th streets,
serves Carnival, Silversea, Holland
America, MSC, and NCL lines.
Taxis are available at the vehicle
entrance, located at 55th Street
and 12th Avenue. The M57 and
M31 crosstown buses provide
convenient, inexpensive access
to midtown, and it is only a
1520-minute walk to the
heart of Manhattan.
The state-of-the-art Brooklyn
Cruise Terminal was opened in
2006 in Red Hook. It is the port
of choice for Cunard and Princess
Cruise lines and the home port of
the QM2, which sails to New York
from Southampton several times
a year. You can also take the
QM2 from New York to Australia
and New Zealand. Taxis from
the terminal can drop you in
Manhattan or at convenient
subway stops into the city.
Royal Caribbean and Celebrity
cruise ships use the Cape Liberty
Cruise Port in Bayonne, on the
New Jersey side of New York
Harbor. It is 7 miles (11 km)
from New York City and about
15 minutes from Newark
International Airport. The
HudsonBergen Light Rail station
at 34th Street, an easy taxi ride
just 2 miles (3 km) from the
port, connects to PATH trains,
New Jersey Transit at Hoboken,
and ferry services to and from
New York. Visit www.njtransit.
com for more information.
Passengers arriving by ship
who remain in New York receive
the same I-94 form as air
passengers and go through
the same procedures; see p370.
Arriving by Long-
Distance Bus
Long-distance buses from all
over the US arrive at the Port
Authority Bus Terminal, on
Eighth Avenue, between 40th
and 42nd streets. The location
is convenient to midtown, and
many hotels are within walking
distance. Taxis can be found on
the Eighth Avenue side of the
terminal; the A and C subway
stops are located on the lower
floors in the terminal; and a one-
block-long tunnel leads to Times
Square station and other subway
connections. The M42 crosstown
bus stops at the corner of Eighth
Avenue and 42nd Street, and
uptown buses are available on
Eighth Avenue. Buses from the
Port Authority connect with all
three airports, and the terminal
also serves many busy commuter
bus lines to New Jersey. With
over 6,000 buses arriving and
departing daily, the atmosphere
can be hectic at rush hour.
Buses can be an economical
way to see the US. Greyhound
Lines and other companies such
as BoltBus offer exceptionally
inexpensive rates, particularly
when booked in advance. Buses
are comfortable and air-condi-
tioned, and they have reclining
seats, ample legroom, and
usually bathrooms. Greyhound
NeOn buses available from
New York to Philadelphia (2
hours), Washington, DC (4 hours),
Boston (4.5 hours), Toronto (11.5
hours), Montreal (8.5 hours), and
other cities offer free Wi-Fi and
plug-ins for devices such as iPods.
Greyhound has a ticket office
in the Port Authority Bus
Terminal, but it is cheaper to buy
tickets over the phone or online.
APEX tickets save 25 percent off
the regular price on shorter trips
purchased at least 14 days in
advance, and 10 percent (or
more) for tickets bought seven
days in advance. Friends and
family rates offer savings of
50 percent for up to three
companions with the purchase
of a regular adult fare. Seniors,
students, and military personnel
have special discounts.
Arriving by Train
Amtrak, the US passenger rail
service, connects New York
with the rest of the country
and Canada. Amtrak trains use
Penn Station as their New York
headquarters (see p384). The
Metro-North train service and
the daily commuter service
from upstate New York and
Connecticut arrive at Grand
Central Terminal (see p384)
Amtrak has its own section in
Penn Station for ticket sales and
separate waiting rooms for
coach and high-speed passen-
gers. Tickets can be bought in
advance by phone or online
and picked up at the station
at the ticket window or at
automated kiosks. If you pick
up tickets at the window, a
photo ID will be requested.
Imposing entrance hall of Grand
Central Terminal
 GET TING TO NEW YORK CITY  373

Taxis are available from
the station, and buses run
downtown on Seventh Avenue
and uptown on Eighth. The
Lexington and Broadway lines
also serve the station.
Amtrak trains are very
comfortable, with ample
legroom and snack-bar services,
as well as dining cars on longer
routes. Sleeping compartments
are available on long-distance
trips, some with showers and
toilets en suite.
Amtraks USA Rail Pass allows
eight journeys over a 15-day
period for $449; children pay
half-fare. The most used train
service from New York is
Amtraks Northeast Corridor
route between Boston, New
York, Philadelphia, and
Washington, DC. Most of
the trains on this route have
unreserved seating, but high-
speed Acela Express trains offer
an hourly service with reserved
first-class and business-class
seating plus electrical outlets
for laptops.
Arriving by Car
Manhattan is an island, so it
must be approached via bridge
or tunnel. From the south, the
Trac approaching the
George Washington Bridge
entries are from New Jersey
via the Holland Tunnel to the
Financial District, or the Lincoln
Tunnel to Midtown. A more
scenic approach is the George
Washington Bridge, which
arrives at 178th Street to the
north of the city.
The Robert Kennedy Bridge
(formerly known as the Tri-
borough Bridge) has branches
from two boroughs connecting
to Manhattan. The bridge from
Queens, east of the city, is used
by those arriving at LaGuardia or
JFK airports. The second branch,
from the Bronx, approaches
Manhattan from the north.
The two bridges merge into one
and offer a striking view of the
city skyline on the approach.
Those driving in from
Queens can avoid tolls by
taking the 59th Street Bridge.
Queens is also connected to
Manhattan by the Midtown
Tunnel, which feeds into the
Long Island Expressway.
The most famous approach
to New York is via the Brooklyn
Bridge, with its vistas of the
skyscrapers of the downtown
Financial District. Brooklyn is
also connected to the city by
the Brooklyn Battery tunnel.
Bridge and Tunnel Tolls
Most of the major access
routes in and out of New York
City levy tolls. Tolls for the
tunnels to and from Long Island
and Brooklyn cost $9, as does
the Robert Kennedy Bridge. The
Lincoln Tunnel, Holland Tunnel,
and the George Washington
Bridge between New York and
New Jersey are free for those
leaving New York, but they
charge $9 coming into the city.
Tolls must be paid in cash. Avoid
E-Z Pass lanes, marked with
purple signs, which are only for
holders of pre-paid passes.

DIRECTORY
Air Travel Helicopter Flight Arriving Arriving by Long-
Services by Sea Distance Bus
Air Canada Tel (212) 355-0801.
Tel (888) 247-2262. heliny.com Brooklyn BoltBus
aircanada.ca Cruise Terminal boltbus.com
JetBlue
Airport Tel (800) 538-2583. Pier 12, Building 112, Greyhound Lines
Information Service jetblue.com Bowne Street, Tel (800) 231-2222.
Tel JFK: (718) 244-4444. Red Hook. greyhound.com
Olympia Airport
EWR: (973) 961-6000. Tel (718) 246-2794. NeOn
Express
LGA (718) 533-3400. nycruise.com neonbus.com
Tel 877-863-9275.
panynj.gov/airports
coachusa.com Cape Liberty Port Authority
AirTran Southwest Airlines Cruise Port Bus Terminal
Tel (800) 247-8726. Tel (800) 435-9792. 14 Port Terminal Blvd, Eighth Ave and W 40th St.
airtran.com southwest.com Bayonne. Map 8 D1. Tel (212) 564-
8484. panynj.gov
American Airlines SuperShuttle Tel (201) 823-3737.
Tel (800) 433-7300. cruiseliberty.com
Tel (212) 209-7000. Arriving by Train
aa.com supershuttle.com New York
Amtrak
British Airways United Airlines Cruise Terminal Tel (800) 872-7245.
Tel (800) AIRWAYS. Tel (800) 241-6522. Pier 90, 711 amtrak.com
british-airways.com united.com 12th Avenue.
Delta Map 11 B4. Penn Station
Virgin Atlantic
Tel (212) 246-5450. Eighth Ave & 31st St. Map
Tel (800) 241-4141. Tel (800) 862-8621.
8 E3. amtrak.com
delta.com virgin-atlantic.com nycruise.com
374  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Arriving in New York

This map shows the links between New Yorks
three airports and the center of Manhattan. It also
illustrates rail connections linking New York to the rest
of the United States and Canada. Travel information,
including times for bus and rail services, and connections
to subway lines, is listed in each information box. The Ships at the passenger terminal
passenger ship terminal, New Yorks key point of arrival
for the flood of postwar immigrants, is located on 55th g Passenger Ship Terminal
Street. Port Authority Bus Terminal, on the West Side, Piers 8892 for some cruise ships.
provides services across the city. Cunard and Princess services use
Brooklyn Cruise Terminal.

Key Passenger Ship

@ Port Authority Bus Terminal Terminal
New York Airport Service and All long-distance buses arrive and
SuperShuttle see p371 depart here; links to all city airports. Theater
Long Island Rail Road see pp3845 District
New Jersey Transit buses
Port Authority
Olympia Airport Express see p371
Bus Terminal
AirTrain see p371 Penn Station
Subway A see p381
Long-distance trains serve the US
and Canada; commuter trains
to Long Island and New Jersey;
Chelsea and Penn Station
AirTrain Newark to Newark
Airport. Amtrak, Long Island the Garment
Rail Road and New Jersey Transit District
services. q A, C, E, 1, 2, 3.

Super Shuttle
buses take
passengers
to any point
between
Battery Park
Greenwich and 227th St.
Village

East Village
SoHo and
TriBeCa

k Newark Lower
@ Olympia Airport Express East Side,
4am1am, every 1530 mins to Seaport and Chinatown,
Penn Station, Grand Central the Civic and Little Italy
and Port Authority. Center
@ New Jersey Transit Every Lower
1520 mins to Port Authority. Manhattan
New Jersey Transit or
Amtrak to Penn Station
5ammidnight, every 520
mins MonFri; every 50 mins
Sat & Sun.

The Port Authority of New York

and New Jersey, operator of JFK,
Newark, and LaGuardia airports,
0 kilometers 2
has invested in the AirTrain, a rail
link that connects JFK and Newark
0 miles 1 to the city subway system.
 GET TING TO NEW YORK CITY  375

Morningside
Heights and
Harlem

Upper West
Side

Grand Central Terminal
Central
Park
Grand Central
Daily commuter train
service to upstate New York
and Connecticut. Metro-
North. q 4, 5, 6, 7, S.
k LaGuardia
@ New York Airport Service
7:20am11pm, every 2030
mins to Grand Central, Port
Authority, and Penn Station.
@ SuperShuttle service to
your choice of destination,
7am11:30pm. @ M60
Upper to 125th St, 5am1am.
East Shuttle to Jamaica station
Side (Queens) of the Long Island
Rail Road every half-hour;
then trains every 510 mins
to Penn Station (25 mins).
C Chartered helicopter
to Midtown.

Grand Central Terminal

Lower
Midtown

Jamaica Long
Island Rail Road.
Airtrain JFK.
E, J, Z subway

John F. Kennedy Airport

k JFK
@ New York Airport
Service 6:15am11:10pm:
every 1530 mins to Grand
Central, Port Authority Bus
Terminal, and Penn Station.
@ SuperShuttle service
Howard Beach to your choice of destination,
AirTrain JFK. 24 hours.
Subway A @ AirTrain JFK to Howard
Beach and Jamaica 24 hours,
frequent departures.
376  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

GETTING AROUND NEW YORK

With more than 6,000 miles (9,650 km) of Subways are the quickest way
streets, getting around New York might to get around. Service is frequent, they
seem a problem, but the city is actually a are inexpensive and reliable, and they
network of small neighborhoods that are make stops throughout Manhattan. The
connected via subway or bus. Each one is citys bus service is also reliable and
also quite walkable or easy to get around on convenient but can be slow in traffic. Weekly
public transportation. Midtown Manhattan, or unlimited MetroCards, valid for all public
for example, with many of the major sights, transportation, provide excellent value. Taxis
runs 25 blocks from 34th to 59th streets and, are the best option for door-to-door transit,
if you should tire, you can hop on a bus that but they can be expensive if you are held up
goes down Fifth Avenue or up Sixth. by traffic.

Green Travel fleet one of the cleanest in Finding your Way

New York is working hard to the world. It was the first in
be more energy-efficient for the US to switch all diesel
those traveling around town. buses to ultra-low-sulfur fuel.
Back in the 1990s, the city was Cleaner-burning engines have
a pioneer in launching an been installed, and buses have
alternative-fuel vehicle been equipped with filters,
program aimed at cutting cutting emissions by as much as
emissions and making its bus 95 percent. The MTA currently
has around 2,000 hybrid-
electric buses in operation.
Numerous bicycle lanes
have also been added around
town for those brave enough
to use them amid the heavy
city traffic.
When it comes to leaving
the city, the US train system
is quite limited, but New
York has some of the better
connections, especially
Amtraks East Coast
Metroliner and Acela trains
Cyclist in Central Park (see pp373 and 385).
Around New York
Manhattans avenues run north to
south; New Yorkers say uptown
and downtown. Streets (except
in the older areas) run east to
west, and are referred to as
cross-town. Fifth Avenue is
the divider between East and
West street addresses.
Most streets in midtown are
one-way. In general, traffic is
eastbound on even-numbered
streets and westbound on odd-
numbered streets. Avenues also
tend to be one-way. First, Third
(above 23rd Street), Madison,
Avenue of the Americas (Sixth),
Eighth, and Tenth avenues are
northbound, while Second,
Lexington, Fifth, Seventh, and
Ninth avenues, and Broadway
below 59th Street, are south-
bound. There is two-way traffic

Finding an Address Avenue Key Avenue Key

Address Number Address Number
A useful formula has been devised to help pinpoint 1st Ave +3 9th Ave +13
any avenue address. By dropping the last digit of 2nd Ave +3 10th Ave +14
the address, dividing the remainder by 2, then 3rd Ave +10 Amsterdam Ave +60
adding or subtracting the key number given 4th Ave +8 Audubon Ave +165
here, you will discover the nearest cross street. 5th Ave, up to 200 +13 Broadway above
For example: to find No. 826 Lexington Avenue, 5th Ave, up to 400 +16 23rd St -30
you have to drop the 6; divide 82 by 2, which is 5th Ave, up to 600 +18 Central Park W, divide
41; then add 22 (the key number). Therefore, the 5th Ave, up to 775 +20 full number by 10 +60
nearest cross street is 63rd Street. 5th Ave 7751286, Columbus Ave +60
do not divide by 2 -18 Convent Ave +127
5th Ave, up to 1500 +45 Lenox Ave +110
SEVENTH AVENUE
EIGHTH AVENUE

Numbers increase 5th Ave, up to 2000 +24 Lexington Ave +22

W E S T 2 5 T H S T R E E T
(6th) Ave of the Madison Ave +26
Americas -12 Park Ave +35
W E S T 2 4 T H S T R E E T 7th Ave below Park Ave South +8
Numbers increase Numbers decrease 110th St +12 Riverside Drive, divide
258

225

7th Ave above full number by 10 +72

W E S T 2 3 R D S T R E E T
200 100 110th St+20 St Nicholas Ave +110
210

Chelsea
23rd St Hotel 23rd St 8th Ave +10 West End Ave +60

Walking through Chelsea
on York, Park, 11th, and 12th
avenues and on Broadway
above 60th Street.
The grid of streets is rectan-
gular rather than square, so
crosstown blocks are longer
than northsouth avenue
blocks. To gauge distances,
20 northsouth city blocks
equal about 1 mile (1.6 km); it
takes only about five to eight
crosstown (eastwest) blocks
to make up that distance.
Some streets have more than
one name for example, Avenue
of the Americas is better known
as Sixth Avenue. Park Avenue is
called Park Avenue South below
34th Street and Fourth Avenue
below 14th Street. The maps
in this guide give the names
most often used.
Planning your Journey
Buses and subways are
busiest during the rush hours:
810am and 4:306:30pm,
Monday to Friday. Throughout
these periods, it may be easier
to face the crowds on foot than
attempt any journey by bus,
taxi, or subway. At other times
of day and during certain
holiday periods (see p55), the
traffic is often much lighter,
and you should reach your
destination quickly.
There are, of course, a few
exceptions. When the president
or other political celebrities
visit, security measures can
cause major disruption to the
traffic. The area around Seventh
Avenue, south of 42nd Street,
is likely to be busy during
the day with the truck and
handcart traffic of New Yorks
garment industry.
Avoid Fifth Avenue on parade
days, which often take place in
GET TING AROUND NEW YORK CITY
spring and fall. On these days,
and during the New York
Marathon, it is difficult to get
across town, as bus services are
disrupted. If such events are
scheduled during your visit,
plan to see other areas of the
city on that day. Subway traffic
will not be affected, though
trains may be more crowded
than usual.
Driving in New York
Heavy traffic, lack of parking,
and expensive rental cars make
driving in New York a frustrating
experience. If you decide to drive,
you must wear a seat belt by law.
Driving is on the right, and the
speed limit is usually 30 mph
(48 km/h) in midtown. Most
streets are one-way,
and there are traffic
lights at almost every
corner. Unlike the rest
of New York State,
you can never turn
right on a red light
unless there is a sign
indicating otherwise.
To rent a car, you
must be at least 25
years old. You will need Car-rental logos
a valid drivers license
(foreign visitors need
an International Drivers License), your car, call 311 to find out if it
a passport, and a credit card.
Car Insurance
Unless you are adequately
covered by your own insurance
policy, you should take out
damage and liability protection
when renting a car. Check with
your insurance company before have rented the car, the
you travel. Your car-rental
agency will be able to provide
you with a policy if necessary.
Vibrant Times Square with its neon billboards
 377
Parking
Parking in Manhattan is
costly and difficult. You can
use parking garages, or see if
your hotel includes overnight
parking, but both options are
very expensive.
The busiest streets in
midtown do not allow
parking. Other streets may
have curbside meters for short-
term (2060 minutes) parking.
Yellow street and curb markings
mean no parking.
Alternate-side parking
applies on most of the citys
side streets. Cars may usually
be left all day and night, but
they must be moved to the
other side of the street before
8am the next day. For specific
information, call 311.
Penalties
If you receive
a parking ticket,
you have seven
days to pay the
fine or to appeal.
If you have any
queries about
your ticket, call
the Parking
Violations Bureau.
If you cannot find
has been towed. The Traffic
Department Tow Pound is
open 24 hours a day, Monday to
Saturday. Redeeming your car
will incur a $185 towing fee, $70
execution fee, and $20 per day
storage fee. Travelers checks,
certified checks, money orders,
and cash are accepted. If you
contract must be produced,
and only the authorized driver
may redeem the vehicle.
378  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Taxis driving through an intersection
in SoHo
Taxis
There are more than 13,000
yellow cabs in New York, easily
identified by their color, the
distinctive logo on the door, and
the light on top. A taxi can carry
up to four passengers, with a
single fare covering everyone on
board. All taxis are metered and
can issue printed receipts. Taxis
can be hailed anywhere on the
street, but taxi stands are scarce.
The best places to find waiting
cabs are outside Penn and Grand
Central stations. Cabs indicate
that they are available by turning
on the top light. This goes off if
the cab is occupied or if the side
lights indicate off duty.
Licensed taxis undergo
periodic inspections and
are insured against accidents
and losses. Non-licensed, or
gypsy, cabs are unlikely to
have these safeguards. They
will have no meters and
charge what they please.
Once the cab driver accepts a
passenger, the meter starts
ticking at $2.50, plus a state tax
surcharge of 50 cents. The fare
increases 40 cents after each
additional one-fifth of a mile (292
yards/267 meters) or every 60
seconds of waiting time. There
is an additional 50-cent charge
from 8pm to 6am, and a $1
extra charge from 4 to 8pm on
weekdays. It is customary to tip
the driver about 15 percent. Taxi
drivers will accept credit cards.
Make sure your driver
understands where you want to
go before you start your ride. If
you have a map of the area,
mark the locations you want.
A driver should not ask you your
destination until after youve
sat down, and by law they must
take you anywhere in the city.
They must follow your requests
not to smoke or talk on a cell
phone, to open or close a
window, and to pick up or
drop off passengers as you
direct. Each yellow cab displays
the drivers photograph
and registered number
next to the meter. If
drivers dont
comply with your
requests, you can
report them to the
Taxi & Limousine
Commission.
As an expensive
alternative, radio-
dispatched sedans
can be hired for $40
per hour with a
2-hour minimum.
Signs in midtown
Walking
All intersections have lamp-
posts with clearly marked
street names; most have
electric traffic signals. The lights
show red (stop) and green (go)
for vehicles, and Walk/Dont
Walk signals for pedestrians.
Crossing while the Dont
Walk sign is showing is not
recommended, nor is crossing
mid-block, referred to in the US
as jay-walking.
Vehicles in the US drive on
the right, and there are
no markings on the road for
pedestrians indicating the
direction of traffic. It is best
to look both ways before you
cross, and beware of cars,
trucks, and taxis turning the
corner behind you as you
start to cross the street.
A water taxi crossing New York harbor
Midtown has several small parks
and plazas where visitors can
rest. In the Broadway area you
can have a rest with a Times
Square view on the high tier
of steps behind the TKTS booth
(Broadway and 47th St). Some of
the surrounding blocks are traffic-
free and furnished with chairs.
The traffic islands around the
Lincoln Center also offer seating.
Ferries
The 24-hour Staten
Island Ferry, also from
Battery Park, travels
the channel and offers
splendid views of
lower Manhattan, the
Statue of Liberty, Ellis
Island, the bridges,
and Governors Island.
The round trip is the
best bargain in New
York; its free.
Water Taxis
The New York Water Taxi is
mainly a commuter service,
but it also offers various tours
and a weekend hop-on/hop-off
sightseeing boat (mid-Aprmid-
Oct). The route is around New
York harbor, between West 44th
and East 34th streets, with stops
including Chelsea Pier, World
Financial Center, Battery Park,
South Street Seaport, the Brooklyn
river front, and Long Island City.
In summer, water taxis provide a
service to a couple of man-made
beaches in Long Island City and
on Governors Island.
Guided Tours
Whichever way you choose
to see New York with the
help of a knowledgeable guide,
 GET TING AROUND NEW YORK CITY  379

a photographer, a pre-recorded Public Library, Metropolitan paths, which cover over

walk, or an exciting trip in a
helicopter, boat, or horse-drawn
carriage organized sightseeing
trips can save a lot of time
and effort. Walking tours
give in-depth back ground
information about specific
neighborhoods and the citys
history and architecture that
you might not get on your own.
The Municipal Art Society is
renowned for its knowledge-
able guides. Fascinating
behind-the-scenes tours are
available for the New York
Opera, and Radio City Music
Hall. Bus tours are also a great
way to see the city, as you can
hop on/hop off as you please
(see also p383). The Circle Line
runs several ferry services
a day to the Statue of Liberty and
Ellis Island from Battery Park, at
the southern tip of Manhattan.
Cycling
Hoping to cut down on
auto traffic, the city is making
a real effort to create bike
90 miles (145 km) in Manhattan.
It takes courage to travel beside
heavy traffic on busy midtown
streets; however, trails along
the East River and far west
side are pleasant and very
popular, as are the many roads
for bikers in Central Park, where
auto traffic is banned on
weekends. Visit www.nycbike
maps.com for maps of bike
routes. You can rent bikes at
Columbus Circle or the Loeb
Boathouse in Central Park
(see p354).

DIRECTORY
Car Rental Transportation Bus Tours: Gray Line NBC Studio Tour
Agencies Department of New York 30 Rockefeller Plaza. Map
Tel 311. 42nd St and Eighth Ave. 12 F5. Tel (212) 664-7174.
Avis Map 8 D1. nbcstudiotour.com
Tel (800) 331-1212. Ferries Tel (212) 397-2620.
avis.com New York Public
Staten Island Ferry Carriage Tours Library
Budget Fifth Ave and 42nd St.
siferry.com 59th St at Fifth Ave and
Tel (800) 527-0700. Map 8 F1. Tel (917) 275-
along Central Park S.
drivebudget.com Water Taxis 6975. nypl.org
Map 12 F3.
Hertz Circle Line Radio City Music Hall
New York Water Taxi
Tel (800) 654-3131.
circleline.com
Stage Door Tours
Tel (212) 742-1969.
hertz.com Sixth Ave. Map 12 F4.
nywatertaxi.com
Eldridge Street Tel (212) 247-4777.
National
Synagogue radiocity.com/tours
Tel (800) CAR RENT. Guided Tours 12 Eldridge St. Map 5 A5.
nationalcar.com Spirit of New York
Bicycle Tours: Bite of Tel (212) 227-8780.
W 23rd and Eighth Ave.
Parking the Apple Tours Harlem Spirituals, Inc. Map 8 D4.
203 W 58th St. 690 Eighth Ave. Map 8 Tel (866) 211-3805.
Alternate Side Park- Map 12 D3. D1. Tel (212) 391-0900. spiritcruises.com
ing Information Tel (212) 541-8759.
Tel 311. Helicopter Tours: Walkin Broadway
Big Apple Greeters Liberty 239 W 49th St. Map 11 C5.
Parking Violations 1 Centre St, Suite 2035. W 30th St and 12th Ave, Tel (212) 997-5004.
and Towing Map 4 F4. South Ferry. Map 7 B3. walkinbroadway.com
Information Tel (212) 669-8159. Tel (212) 967-6464. Walking Tours:
Tel 311.
Big Onion Walking Heritage Trails Adventures on a
Parking Violations Tours Shoestring
Federal Hall, 26 Wall St.
Bureau 76 13th St, Brooklyn. 300 W 53rd St. Map 12 E4.
Map 1 C3. nps.gov/
Tel (718) 802-3636. Tel (212) 439-1090. Tel (212) 265-2663.
feha
bigonion.com Wall Street Walks
Police
Lower East Side Tel (212) 209-3379.
Tel 911. Boat Tours: Circle Tenement Museum wallstreetwalks.com
Traffic Department Line Sightseeing
108 Orchard St. Map 5 A4.
Tow Pound Yachts World Yacht, Inc.
Tel (212) 431-0233.
Pier 83, W 42nd St. Pier 81, W 41st St. Map 7
Pier 76, W 38th St and tenement.org
Map 7 A1. A1. Tel (212) 630-8100.
12th Ave. Map 7 B1.
Tel (212) 563-3200. Metropolitan Opera worldyacht.com
Tel 311.
circleline42.com Tours
Taxis Building Tours: Grand
Lincoln Center. Map 11 C2. Cycling
Tel (212) 769-7020.
Central Terminal Central Park Bike
Taxi & Limousine metoperafamily.org
E 42nd St at Park Ave. Rental
Commission
Map 13 A5. Municipal Art Society 203 West 58th St. Map 12
Tel 311.
Tel (212) 883-2420. 457 Madison Ave. Map 13 E3. Tel (212) 541-8759.
Taxi Lost and Found grandcentralterminal. A4. Tel (212) 980-1297. centralparkbike
Tel 311. com mas.org tour.com
380  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Subway or numbers than local ones; both

The subway is the quickest and most reliable way to travel
in the city. The vast system extends over 233 route miles
(375 km) and has 468 stations. Most routes operate 24 hours
a day throughout the year. The trains are air-conditioned,
well lit, safe, and (unless you are riding at rush hour)
comfortable. Since the 1980s, a portion of all station-
improvement funds has gone to the Arts for Transit project,
with some notable results. Keep an eye out for the mosaics,
sculptures, and art that decorate many subway and
commuter rail stations.
Using the Subway
Enter the subway by swiping
your MetroCard at the turnstiles; times, though each station is
the card is not needed to exit.
Look for signs for uptown
(northbound) and
downtown (southbound)
trains. Note that there are
two types of trains: local
trains stop at all stations,
while faster express trains
make fewer stops. Express
lines have different letters New York subway logo
types of stops are distinguished
on every subway map.
Subway Stations
Many subway entrances are
marked by illuminated spheres:
green where the station booth is
manned around the clock, red
where there is restricted entry.
Others are marked simply by
a sign bearing the name of
the station and the numbers
or letters of the routes passing
through it. Although the subway
system runs 24 hours a day,
not all routes operate at all
still served. The basic service
is between 6am and
midnight. The most
crowded periods are
the weekday rush hours
(68:30am and
4:306:30pm); it
is best to avoid
these times if you
can. If not, during

Reading the Subway Map

Entrance to Times Square 42nd Street
subway station
Tickets and Fares
A MetroCard must be pur-
chased to enter the subway. The
fare is $2.75 no matter how far
you travel; if you buy a single-
use ticket, though, the price
rises to $3. If you are making
several trips, buy a weekly
unlimited ticket, and the cost
per journey will work out to be
less. Or, if you get a Pay-Per-Ride
MetroCard and put $5.50 or
more on it, you will receive an
11 percent bonus credit. Metro-
Cards, which can also be used
on buses (see pp3823), are sold
at newsstands, drug-stores, and
other locations around the city,
as well as at all subway stations,
where you can pay with cash.
The machines take cash and
debit and credit cards. One
transfer per ride is allowed
between the subway and bus;
it must be used within 2 hours.
Each route is identified on the
subway map (see inside back
cover) by color, by the names of
the stations at each end of the
line, and by a letter or number.
Local and express stops and
interchange points are also
identified. The letters and
numbers below the station
names indicate which routes
serve that particular station.
A letter or number in heavy
type indicates that trains on
that route stop there between
6am and midnight; letters in
Part-time line
extension Local service only
42 Street
Times Square
N.R S
1.2.3 7 6
Light type Part-
time service
Boxed type Last stop
on this line (full- or
part-time)
Bold type Full-time service
lighter type mean that the
route is served by a part-time
service only; a boxed letter
or number shows the last stop
on the line. Express trains are
indicated on subway maps
with a white (rather than
solid) circle. The maps posted
in all the subway stations
have a comprehensive guide
that explains the trains and
timetable of each route.
Note that New Yorkers refer
to subway lines by letter or
number, not by color.
Express and local stops
Free subway transfer
Free out of system subway
transfer (excluding
single-ride ticket)
Normal service
Additional
express service
Terminal

Subways run northsouth up and
down the city; the N, R, E and F trains
run eastwest from midtown to
Queens. See Subway Lines for the
most useful routes.
1 There is a map of the
subway system on the
back inside cover of this
book. Large-scale maps
are also positioned in
prominent areas in every
station. Maps are also
available at www.mta.info
and at subway stations.
3 Use MetroCard to pass
through the turnstile
onto the platform.
6 On every platform, you will
nd a large subway map,
while on each train there
is a system map next to the
door on both sides of the
car. Newer trains have
electronic route maps
for that line that light
up overhead. Stops are
announced on the public address system, and
you will see station names at each platform.
The doors are operated by the conductor.
crowded times the first and last
cars are usually less busy.
The subway is generally quite
safe, but visitors may feel more
secure riding during the day
and until around 10pm, when
there are many other passengers
around. If you feel unsure, stand
in the Off-Hours Waiting Area
on the platforms. In an
emergency, contact either
the station agent in the station
booth or a member of the train
crew, who are located in the first
car and in the middle of the train.
Subway Lines
Subways run northsouth on
Lexington, Sixth Avenue,
Seventh Avenue, Broadway, and
Eighth Avenue. The #7 train runs
westeast into Queens, while
the E, F, M, N, Q, and R travel
southnorth until around
midtown, and then east into
Queens. A shuttle train connects
Grand Central42nd Street to
Times Square42nd Street.
GET TING AROUND NEW YORK CITY
Traveling by Subway
Trains mostly run along one
avenue, but some stations, such
as those at Times Square, Union
Square, and Columbus Circle,
are convenient transfer points
where several lines converge.
Each subway line has a
distinct color, while the routes
on each line are identified either
by letter or number. For
example, the Lexington Avenue
line is green and the #6 is a
local train, while #4 and #5 run
express. The Eighth Avenue
line is blue, and the A train is
the express, while C and E are
local trains. First and last stops
are posted on track signs and
on each car. Large system
maps are posted in all stations.
Free individual subway maps
are usually available from
booth attendants.
Some lines are especially
useful for visitors. The Lexington
Line is the only one serving
the East Side and its many
museums. The #6 train stops
near the Guggenheim, the
 381
2 Buy a MetroCard from a
station subway booth or
MetroCard vending machine.
The machines accept most
credit and debit cards and
bills up to $50, but no
pennies. Vending machines
can also be used to rell
MetroCards.
4 Follow the directions for
the train you want. For
safety, stay in sight of the
booth as you wait for your
train; at night, stay in one
of the yellow o-hours
waiting areas.
5 Each train displays its
route number or letter in
the appropriate color
and the names of the
terminal stations.
7 After leaving the train,
look for signs giving
directions to the exit. If
you need to change trains,
just follow the signs to the
connecting platforms.
Metropolitan Museum of
Art, and the Frick Collection.
The red #1 Broadway/Seventh
Avenue line on the West Side
takes you to Lincoln Center,
MoMA, Times Square,
Greenwich Village, SoHo, the
Financial District, and South
Ferry, where you can catch a
ferry to the Statue of Liberty.
Track work at weekends can
cause changes to the schedule.
When you enter, ask the booth
attendant about changes that
may affect your journey.
DIRECTORY
MTA Automated Travel
Planner
tripplanner.mta.info
Subway
Information
Tel 511.
mta.info
382  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Bus
Traveling by bus is a good way to take in many of New Yorks
sights. The citys 4,000-plus blue-and-white buses cover more
than 200 routes in the five boroughs. Many run 24 hours a
day, every day. The buses are modern, clean, air-conditioned,
and energy-efficient. They are also quite safe and tend not to
get crowded, except during rush hours. Smoking and eating
are forbidden on all public buses, and only service animals
(guide dogs) are allowed on board.
every two or three blocks.
Tickets and Fares
Crosstown buses run eastwest Bus stop in midtown Manhattan
You can pay the $2.50 fare on and usually stop at every block,
a bus using a MetroCard (see with the exception of Park Using Buses
p380), or exact change in coins. Avenue, which is skipped Most buses run every 35
Bus drivers cannot make change, by some lines. Many routes minutes during the morning
and fare boxes do not accept run a 24-hour daily service. and evening rush hours, and
dollar bills, half-dollars, or Bus stops are marked by red, every 715 minutes from noon
pennies. You can buy a Metro- white, and blue signs, and yellow to 4:30pm and from 7 to 10pm.
Card at any subway station paint along the curb. Most also Bad traffic or adverse weather
booth or machine and at many have bus shelters; newer shelters conditions can cause delays.
other outlets around the city. provide seating and helpful Service is reduced on weekends
If you need to take more signs giving the location. A route and holidays.
than one bus to reach your map and schedule is posted at Enter the bus at the front
destination, you are eligible for a each stop. Buses use letters to door. If you are unsure of your
free transfer. If you pay your fare indicate the boroughs they route, ask the driver if they will
with a MetroCard, transfers to serve: M for Manhattan, B for be stopping at your destination
bus or subway are automatically Brooklyn, Bx for the Bronx, and or close to it. The majority of
placed electronically on the card. Q for Queens. Bus stops often New Yorks bus drivers are
If you use cash, ask the driver for serve several routes, so check helpful and will call out your
a transfer ticket when you pay. the maps at the stop for your stop if you ask when you board.
Transfers are good for 2 hours. route, then look for that route Put your MetroCard in the slot
Senior citizens with proof of number posted on the lighted or drop the correct coins in the
age and the disabled pay half- strip above the windshield on fare box, then look for a seat.
fare. All buses can kneel, the front of the bus. To request a stop when
lowering the steps to help Some buses will be marked traveling on the bus, press the
elderly people to board (see Limited, indicated by a flashing yellow vertical call strip
p362). They are also accessible to sign in the route number space between the windows. Some
wheelchairs via a lift with ramp, and by a card in the front newer buses also have stop
at the rear or front depending window. These buses are faster buttons on center poles. A Stop
on the bus design. since they make fewer stops, Requested sign near the driver
but be sure the stops they do will then light up. If the bus is
make are near your destination. crowded, it is wise to start
Bus Stops Limited buses do stop at streets moving toward the exit door
Buses will stop only at connecting to crosstown buses. when you are a few blocks
designated bus stops. They Free city bus maps are often from your stop.
follow northsouth routes on available on board; ask the Leave through the double
the major avenues, stopping driver for a copy. door located toward the rear
of the bus. The driver will
activate the door release as
soon as the bus has stopped,
and a green light will go on
above the door. You then push
the yellow stripe on the door,
and the doors will open
automatically; they will stay
open long enough for everyone
to leave. If the strip does not
work properly, just push the
door and then hold it open
for the passenger behind you
The M86 crosstown bus traveling through Central Park as you leave.
 GET TING AROUND NEW YORK CITY  383

Night Buses
Sightseeing Buses
Most lines run 24 hours, but
be sure to check the schedule For a pleasant and cheap alternative to a tour bus, hop on a city bus
posted at your stop. After 10pm, and see New York with the New Yorkers. Recommended bus routes
many buses run every 20 include route M2, which runs down Fifth Avenue alongside Central
minutes or so. From midnight Park and stops near the Guggenheim and the Metropolitan. It then
to 6am, expect to wait 3060 returns north on Madison Avenue (via the Empire State Building
minutes for a bus. and the Rockefeller Center), where it runs alongside the M5, which
continues south to SoHo and Greenwich Village. From Broad Street,
head north on the M15 to visit Brooklyn Bridge and the United
Bus Tours Nations, or take route M7 or M20 along Eighth Avenue for Times
Square and Madison Square Garden.
One of the most popular ways
to see the sights is aboard a
hop-on/hop-off bus tour that W 147 W 147 E 125
Street E 89 Street Street Street
allows you to get off wherever
you like, stay as long as you Guggenheim
Museum
want, and catch another bus E 83 Street
when you are ready. Gray Line
(see p379) is the best-known Metropolitan
Museum of Art E 75 Street
company offering these tours Whitney
aboard double-decker buses. Ce n t r a l Museum
Routes include a Downtown Park
Loop, Uptown Loop, Brooklyn W 65 St
Loop, and Night/Holiday Lights Museum of
Lincoln Modern Art
Tour (not hop-on/hop-off ). Buy Center
a 48- or 72-hour pass, and you W 53
can see a great deal of New St
York. While you ride, narration is W
49 E 45
available in several languages Rockefeller St Street
Center United
through rented headsets. Times Nations
W 42 Street Grand
Square E 42
Central
Empire State Street
W Terminal
MTA Trip Planner Building 34
Madison
The MTA website has a useful Square Garden St
feature known as the Trip W 31
Street Madison
Planner, which provides a map
Square Park
and directions by bus and/or E 23
subway between any two points Street
in New York. Enter your starting
and ending points, the time you
expect to travel, preferred mode
of transportation, how far you
are willing to walk, and whether Greenwich
Village
you need accessible vehicles, W 3 Street
and you will get clear directions.
Visit http://travel.mtanyct.info SoHo Spring St
to access the planner; Spring St
www.hopstop.com offers Spring St
a similar service. Canal St

DIRECTORY Frankfort
Fulton City Hall Street
MTA Travel Information Street
Hudson Liberty Wall
Tel 511. Street World Street
River Financial Brooklyn
mta.info Center Bridge
Wall St
Route Maps Broad Street
Key
Available from MTA/NYCT,
Customer Service Center, Major sights

3 Stone St, Bus route

Lower Manhattan. Bus stop (selected stops only)
Map 1 C4.
384  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Day Trips from New York PATH trains are used mainly by
commuters. They run around the
For a change of pace and some beautiful scenery, it is worth clock between Newark, Jersey
taking a day trip from New York City to the surrounding areas. City and Hoboken stations and
Public transport links are excellent, and there are many Manhattan. In the city they make
stops at Christopher Street; the
convenient and easy ways to travel to nearby destinations
World Trade Center; Ninth, 14th,
(see pp23457). 23rd, and 33rd streets along
Sixth Avenue.

Tickets and Fares

Departure board at Penn Station
Main Train Stations
New York has two main train
stations, serving commuters as
well as long-distance travelers.
Grand Central Terminal (see
pp1589), on Park Avenue at
42nd Street, is the main
terminal for Metro-North
Railroad trains (Hudson, New
Haven, and Harlem lines), which luggage trolleys, but redcap
run north of New York and
serve southwest Connecticut
and Westchester, Dutchess, and street level. Buses run down-
Putnam counties (see pp3723).
From Grand Central, you can
travel by train to the Bronx Zoo
(see pp2467), the New York
Botanical Garden, President
Franklin D. Roosevelts Hyde
Park estate, and other mansions on the Seventh Avenue side
and towns overlooking the
Hudson River.
The 4, 5, and 6 trains on the
Lexington line and number 7 on
the Flushing line serve Grand
Central subway station. A shuttle
train service links Grand
Central to Times Square.
Many bus lines stop near
Grand Central, and taxis
can usually be found in
front of the station on
42nd Street or across Long Island Rail Road to destinations along
from the side entrance
on Vanderbilt Avenue at
43rd Street.
Penn Station, between
Seventh and Eighth avenues
and from 31st to 33rd streets,
is a somewhat cramped
underground terminal that
was rebuilt in 1963 underneath
the Madison Square Garden
complex (see p137). Long Island
Rail Road (LIRR) and New Jersey
Transit commuter trains, plus
Amtrak trains from Canada and
other parts of the US, terminate
at this station. There are no
porters will help.
Taxis can be found at
town on Seventh Avenue and
uptown on Eighth Avenue. The
Eighth Avenue subway lines A,
C, and E run on the Eighth
Avenue side of the station; the
Broadway lines 1, 2, and 3 run
of the station.
Commuter Rail Lines
Metro-North lines to upstate
New York and Connecticut
depart from Grand Central
Terminal. These are mostly
commuter trains but may
be useful for trips to
New Haven or
Westchester County, or
logo the Hudson River.
Long Island Rail
Road and New Jersey Transit
commuter rail lines depart from
Penn Station. They can take you
to New Jersey or Long Island
beach resorts.
Train tickets are based on a
one-way fare; a return fare is
twice the single fare. Peak
commuter fares are in operation
on weekdays until 9am and
between 4 and 8pm. All other
hours and weekend days are
considered off peak and cost
much less.
The Long Island Rail Road has
many One-Day Getaway pack-
ages, with discounted rail fares
and admissions to places such
as the Hamptons, vineyards,
historic sites, and New York
Mets baseball games.
Metro-North and LIRR
cars are all one class and
have no reserved seating, while
Amtrak trains offer both services.
The conductor will ask to see
your ticket after the train has
left the station.
Long Island Rail Road train
Booking Tickets
Ticketing offices at all train
stations will accept most credit
cards or cash. When there are
lines for tickets, you can use
the automated machines, which
accept credit cards. Tickets can
be purchased on board for
payment in cash only. Note
that there is a surcharge for
buying tickets on board the
train so it is advisable to
purchase tickets in advance.

Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut
Day Trips by Train
Many destinations near New
York are well worth a visit and
easily reached by train. Below
is a list of some recommended
sights; for further details, call
NYC & Co. (see p363).
Stony Brook is a peaceful
North Shore village and the
entrance to the Three Villages
historic district. The journey
takes 2 hours from Penn Station
on a LIRR train.
The chic bars, clubs, and
boutiques of the Hamptons
are just under 3 hours from
New York. Take a LIRR train
from Penn Station.
Westbury House, John
Phippss 1906 re-creation of a
Charles II mansion with English
formal gardens, is 40 minutes
from Manhattan. Take a LIRR
train from Penn Station to
Old Westbury.
Kykuit, the Rockefeller
mansion; Washington Irvings
home Sunnyside; and Jay
Goulds mansion, Lyndhurst, are
all in Tarrytown. Take a Metro-
North train from Grand Central
Terminal, then a taxi. The journey
should take 4050 minutes.
Two hours outside of
Manhattan is Hyde Park,
where you can visit Franklin
D. Roosevelts Springwood
estate and the Vanderbilt
mansion. Take a Metro-North
train from Grand Central to
Poughkeepsie, then a bus.
Cold Spring, New York, is
an antiquing mecca on the
Hudson. The scenic riverside
journey takes 70 minutes from
Grand Central on the Metro-
North Hudson Line.
New Haven, Connecticut, is
home to the world-famous Yale
University. The journey takes
1 hour and 45 minutes, again
on a Metro-North train from
Grand Central.
GET TING AROUND NEW YORK CITY
Day Trips by Bus
Many appealing destinations
can be reached by bus from the
Port Authority Bus Terminal (see
p373) on Eighth Avenue. Short
Line Bus offers popular day-out
packages to the US Military
Academy at West Point, Franklin
D. Roosevelts home at Hyde Park,
and the Storm King Art Center.
Also on offer is shopping at the
Woodbury Common Outlet
Center. Rates include round-trip
bus fare and any admissions.
New Jersey Transit buses go
to the casinos at Atlantic City;
they also have stops on the
Jersey shore. Trans-Bridge Lines
has services to charming
antiquing meccas such as
Lambertville, New Jersey, and
New Hope, Pennsylvania.
A number of budget bus
lines have inexpensive fares
to Philadelphia, a historic city
with many attractions that is
only 100 miles (160 km) from
New York. Among the most
reliable and comfortable of
these are Megabus and
BoltBus, both of which offer
free Wi-Fi on board. For those
with time to travel farther afield,
these companies also serve
Boston and Washington, DC.
Bus tickets are on sale in the
main concourse of the Port
Authority. The long-distance bus
companies Greyhound (see p373),
Peter Pan, and Adirondacks and
the Short Line, Trans-Bridge, and
New Jersey Transit commuter
lines have their own ticket
counters. No reservations are
taken on any of these bus lines.
Day Trips by Subway
or City Bus
The outer boroughs, served by
New Yorks subway and bus
system, are also worth exploring.
Head for the Coney Island
beaches (see p251) and the New
York Aquarium on the D, F, N or
Q trains, or take the M4 bus to
the last stop and visit The
Cloisters (see pp23841), high
above the Hudson River.
New Yorks ethnic neighbor-
hoods are also easily reached
by subway. At Grand Central
Terminal, take the 7 Queens
train to 74th Street in Jackson
 385
Heights, where youll find a slice
of India. Nearby, 37th Avenue
is home to New Yorks Latin-
American community. If you
stay on the 7 train to the end
of the line, you can explore a
Chinatown that rivals the one in
Manhattan, as well as the citys
largest Korean neighbourhood.
In Brooklyn, the B train will
take you to the Russian enclave
of Brighton Beach, while the G
train will let you sample a bit of
Poland in Greenpoint. Take the
N train to go Greek or Egyptian
in Astoria, or the F train to the
citys largest Orthodox Jewish
community in Borough Park.
DIRECTORY
Train Information
Amtrak
Tel (800) USA-RAIL or (800)
872-7245. amtrak.com
Long Island Rail Road (LIRR)
Tel 511. mta.info
Metro-North Railroad
Tel 511. mta.info
New Jersey Transit
Tel (973) 275-5555.
njtransit.com
PATH
Tel (800) 234-7284.
panynj.com
Bus Information
Adirondacks
Tel (518) 846-8016.
visitadirondacks.com
BoltBus
Tel (877) 265-8287.
boltbus.com
Megabus
Tel (877) 462-6342.
megabus.com
Peter Pan
Tel (800) 343-9999.
peterpanbus.com
Short Line Bus
Tel (201) 529-3666.
coachusa.com/shortline
Trans-Bridge Lines
Tel (610) 868-6001.
transbridgelines.com
386  STREET FINDER

STREET FINDER
The map references given with all sights, hotels,
restaurants, bars, shops, and entertainment
venues described in this book refer to the maps
in this section (see How the Map References
Work, opposite). These maps cover the whole of
Manhattan. A complete index of street names
and all the places of interest marked on the
maps can be found on the following pages.
The key map (below) shows the areas
covered by the Street Finder, within the
various districts. The maps include all
of Manhattans sight-seeing areas
(which are color-coded), with all
the districts important for hotels,
restaurants, bars, shops, theaters,
and entertainment.

Upper
West Side

Browsing at South Street Seaport

Theater
District

Upper
Midtown
0 kilometers 2
Chelsea and
0 miles 1 the Garment Lower
District Midtown

Gramercy &
Greenwich the Flatiron
Village District

SoHo &
TriBeCa East
Village

Lower
East Side,
Seaport Chinatown, and
& the Little Italy
Civic
Lower Center
Ellis Manhattan
Island

Liberty
Island

Inset on Map 1
 STREET FINDER  387

Key to Street Finder

Major sight
Other sight
Railroad station

Inset on Map 19 Subway station

Heliport
Ferry terminal
Bus terminal
Aerial tramway
Tourist information office
Morningside Hospital with emergency room
Heights & Harlem
Police station
Church
Synagogue
Railroad line
Pedestrian street

Central
Park

Scale of map pages

0 meters 200
Upper 1:11,500
East Side 0 yards 200
803
681

United
Grand EAST 43RD STREET Nations
TUDOR CITY
THIRD

Central Headquarters
SECOND

PLACE

Terminal Chrysler
786

F I R S T

Building
Grand Central- EAST 42ND STREET
42nd Street Chanin 100 News 300
F R A N
639

4.5.6.7.S Building Building

PERSHING Home Savings E A S T 4 1 S T S T R E E T

How the Map

SQUARE
of America
Tudor
AVENUE

K L I N

City
AVENUE
622

AV E N U E
748
LEXINGTON
PARK

EAST 40TH STREET EAST 40TH STREET

STREET

TUNNEL

References Work
601

729

EAST 39TH STREET EAST 39TH STREET

EXIT

ENTRANCE

R O O S E V
578
68
AVENUE

EAST 38TH STREET EAST 38TH STREET

TUNNEL
M A D I S O N

Morgan
AVENUE

ST

Library & EAST 37TH STREET EAST 37TH STREET

Museum
E L T

EAST 36TH STREET EAST 36TH STREET

SNIFFEN

Church of the
COURT

D R I V E

The first figure tells you which Incarnation

Episcopal
EAST 35TH STREET EAST 35TH
ST VARTANS
PARK
STREET

Street Finder map to turn to.

508

622
6

34th Street
349
Heliport
EAST 34TH STREET EAST 34TH STREET
100 200
603

300
A V E N U E

489

33rd Street EAST 33RD STREET

S E C O N D

6
T H I R D

F I R S T

EAST 32ND STREET

Theodore
PARK

7
Kips Bay
L E X I N G T O N

Plaza
EAST 31ST STREET
442

Roosevelt
AVENUE

EAST 30TH STREET New York University

Medical Center
A V E N U E
A V E N U E

A V E N U E

Birthplace
EAST 2 9 T H STREET

28th Street EAST 2 8 T H S T R E E T EAST 28TH ST Bellevue

6 Hospital
SOUTH

A V E N U E

28 E 20th St. New York Life E A S T 27TH STREET EAST 27TH ST

BROADWAY

Insurance
ALLEY

Company

Map 9 A5. Tel 260-1616. q14th St Appellate Division of the

Supreme Court of the
EAST 26T H STREET

State of New York

Union Sq. Open 9am5pm WedSun EAST 25TH STREET
ASSER LEVY PLACE

Metropolitan Life
Insurance Company

(last adm: 4:30pm). Closed public hols. EAST 24TH STREET EAST 24TH ST
310

301

393

& 8 Lectures, concerts, films & EAST 23RD

100
STREET EAST 23RD STREET
S E C O N D

23rd Street 200 300 400

T H I R D

390
F I R S T

6
286

video = nps.gov/thrb
401
282
PARK AVENUE SOUTH

PE

GRAMERCY PA R K
TE ER RO
300 OP AD
R
CO
382

Gramercy Park
Hotel EAST 21ST STREET
PARK WEST
GRAMERCY

GRAMERCY
PARK EAST

Theodore GR AMERCY Police Academy

Roosevelt PARK Museum
Birthplace

A letter and number give the Players

EAST 20TH STREET EAST 20TH STREET
A V E N U E

National
A V E N U E

A V E N U E

Arts Club
STREET

grid reference. Letters go across EAST 19TH STREET EAST 19TH

Block Beautiful
I R V I N G

EAST 18TH STREET EAST 18TH STREET

the maps top and bottom; EAST 17TH STREET EAST 17TH STREET

numbers, on its sides.

UNION SQUARE

UNION
EAST

Beth Israel
RUTHERFORD
SQUARE WEST

N D PERLMAN PL

SQUARE Medical Center

UNION

P L A C E

EAST 16TH STREET STUYVESANT EAST 16TH ST

SQUARE
PL

14th Street- 14th Street-

Union Square Union Square EAST 15TH STREET
126

L.N.Q.R 4.5.6 Con Edison

2

240
230

Headquarters

The map continues on map 5

of the Street Finder.
388  STREET FINDER

Street Finder Index

1 & 2 United Nations 65th St Transverse Attorney St 5 B3 Blackwell Park
Plaza 13 B5 Rd 12 E2 Aunt Lens Doll and Toy (Roosevelt Island) 18 E5
1st St (Queens) 10 E2 75 Bedford St 3 C3 Museum 19 A1 Bleecker St 3 C2
continues 18 E2 79th St Transverse Ave A 1210 5 A1A3 Block Beautiful 9 A5
2nd (Front) St Rd 16 E4 Ave B 1215 5 B1B2 Bloomfield St 3 A1
(Queens) 10 E1 86th St Transverse Ave C 1212 5 C1C2 Bloomingdales 13 A3
2nd St (Queens) 18 E2 Rd 16 E3 Ave C 213277 10 D4D5 Boat Basin 15 B5
3rd St (Queens) 18 E2 97th St Transverse Ave D 1199 5 C1C2 Boat House 16 F5
4th St (Queens) 18 F2 Rd 16 E1 Ave of the Americas Boathouse 21 B4
5th St (Queens) 10 E1 (Sixth Ave) Bond Alley 4 F2
continues 14 E5 1509 4 D1E5 Borden Ave (Queens)
8th St (Queens) 18 F2
A continues 10 F1
9th St (Queens) 14 F1 A.H. Sulzberger 5101125 8 E1E5 Bow Bridge 16 E5
continues 18 F2 Plaza 20 F3 11261421 12 F3F5 Bowery 4 F2
10th St (Queens) 14 F1 AT&T Building 1 C2 Ave of the Finest 2 D1 continues 5 A4
continues 18 F5 Abingdon Sq 3 B1 Avery Fisher Hall 12 D2 Bowling Green 1 C4
11th St (Queens) 14 F1 Abraham E. Kazan St 5 C4 Box St (Brooklyn) 10 F2
continues 18 F5 Abyssinian Baptist Bradhurst Ave 19 B1
12th St (Queens) 14 F1 Church 19 C2
B Bridge St 1 C4
continues 18 F2 Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. Bank of New York 1 C3 Broad St 1 C3
13th St (Queens) 14 F1 Blvd (Seventh Ave) Bank St 3 B2 Broadway (Brooklyn)
continues 18 F4 18012214 21 A1A4 Barclay St 1 B2 6 F3
14th St (Queens) 18 F2 continues Barrow St 3 B3 Broadway
21st St (Queens) 14 F3 22152474 19 C1C3 Baruch Pl 6 D3 1320 1 C1C3
26th Ave (Queens) 18 E2 Aerial Tramway 13 B3 Battery Maritime continues
27th Ave (Queens) 18 E2 African Sq 21 B1 Building 1 C4 321842 4 E1E5
28th Ave (Queens) 18 F3 Albany St 1 B3 Battery Park 1 B4 8431472 8 E1F5
30th Ave (Queens) 18 F3 Algonquin Hotel 12 F5 Battery Park City 1 A3 14731961 12 D2E5
30th Dr (Queens) 18 F3 Alice in Wonderland Battery Park City 19622081 11 C1
30th Rd (Queens) 18 F3 16 F5 Heliport 1 B4 20822675 15 C1C5
31st Ave (Queens) 18 F4 Alice Tully Hall 11 C2 Battery Place 1 B4 26763200 20 E1E5
31st Dr (Queens) 18 F4 Allen St 5 A3 Battery Plaza 1 C4 Broadway (Queens)
33rd Ave (Queens) 18 F4 Alwyn Court Baxter St 4 F4 18 F4
33rd Rd (Queens) 18 F4 Apartments 12 E3 Bayard St 4 F5 Broadway Alley 9 A3
34th Ave (Queens) 18 F5 American Museum of Bayard-Condict Brooklyn Bridge 2 E2
34th St Heliport 9 C2 Natural History 16 D5 Building 4 F3 BrooklynQueens
35th Ave (Queens) 18 F5 American Standard Beach St 4 D5 Expressway 278
36th Ave (Queens) 14 F1 Building 8 F1 Beaver St 1 C3 (Brooklyn) 2 F3
37th Ave (Queens) 14 F1 American Stock Bedford St 3 C2 Broome St 4 D4
38th Ave (Queens) 14 F1 Exchange 1 B3 Beekman Downtown continues 5 A4
40th Ave (Queens) 14 F2 Amsterdam Ave Hospital 1 C2 Bryant Park 8 F1
41st Ave (Queens) 14 F2 1278 11 C1C3 Beekman Pl 13 C5 Butler Library 20 E3
41st Rd (Queens) 14 F3 continues Beekman St 1 C2
43rd Ave (Queens) 14 E3 279855 15 C1C5 Bellevue Hospital 9 C3
43rd Rd (Queens) 14 F4 8561435 20 E1E5 Belmont Island 10 D1
C
44th Ave (Queens) 14 F4 14361701 19 A1A3 Belvedere Castle 16 E4 Calvin Ave 7 C2
44th Dr (Queens) 14 E4 Andrews Plaza 1 C1 Benjamin Franklin Canal St 3 C4
44th Rd (Queens) 14 F4 Ann St 1 C2 Plaza 22 E5 Canal St 5 A5
45th Ave (Queens) 14 F4 Ansonia Hotel 15 C5 Benson St 4 E5 Cannon St 5 C4
45th Rd (Queens) 14 F4 Apollo Theater 21 A1 Berry St (Brooklyn) 6 F1 Cardinal St 2 D1
46th Ave (Queens) 14 F5 Appellate Division of Bethesda Fountain Cardinal Stepinac
46th Rd (Queens) 14 E5 the Supreme Court and Terrace 12 E1 Plaza 7 C1
47th Ave (Queens) 14 E5 of the State of NY 9 A4 Beth Israel Medical Carl Schurz
47th Rd (Queens) 14 E5 Asia Society 13 A1 Center 9 B5 Park 18 D3
48th Ave (Queens) 14 F5 Asser Levy Pl 9 C4 Bethune St 3 B2 Carlisle St 1 B3
50th Ave (Queens) 10 E1 Astor Pl 4 F2 Bialystoker Pl 5 C4 Carmine St 4 D3
51st Ave (Queens) 10 E1 Astoria Blvd Bialystoker Carnegie Hall 12 E3
54th (Flushing) Ave (Queens) 18 F3 Synagogue 5 C4 Castle Clinton National
(Queens) 10 E2 Astoria Park South Bird Sanctuary 12 F3 Monument 1 B4
55th Ave (Queens) 10 E2 (Queens) 18 F1 Blackwell Park Cathedral of St. John
56th Ave (Queens) 10 E2 Athletic Field 6 D2 (Roosevelt Island) 14 E1 the Divine 20 F4
 STREET FINDER  389

Cathedral Parkway Citicorp Center 13 A4 D East 10th St 4 F1

20 E4 City Center of Music continues 5 A1
Dairy, the 12 F2
Catherine La 4 E5 and Drama 12 E4 East 11th St 4 F1
Dakota, the 12 D1
Catherine Slip 2 E1 City College of the continues 5 A1
Damrosch Park 11 C2
Catherine St 2 E1 University of New East 12th St 4 F1
Dante Park 12 D2
Cedar St 1 B3 York 19 A2 continues 5 A1
De Witt Clinton Park
Central Park 12 E1 City Hall 1 C1 East 13th St 4 F1
11 B4
continues 16 E1 City Hall Park 1 C1 continues 5 A1
Delacorte Theater 16 E4
continues 21 A5 Claremont Ave 20 E1 East 14th St 4 F1
Delancey St 5 A4
Central Park Clark St continues 5 A1
Delancey St South 5 C4
North 21 A4 (Brooklyn) 2 F3 East 15th St 8 F5
Desbrosses St 3 C5
Central Park South Clarkson St 3 C3 continues 9 A5
Dey St 1 C2
(Olmsted Way) 12 E3 Clay St East 16th St 8 F5
Diamond District 12 F5
Central Park West (Brooklyn) 10 F2 continues 9 A5
Division Ave
1130 12 D1D3 Cleveland Pl 4 F4 East 17th St 8 F5
(Brooklyn) 6 F4
continues Cliff St 2 D2 continues 9 A5
Division St 5 A5
131418 16 D1D5 Clinton St 5 B3 East 18th St 8 F5
Dock St (Brooklyn) 2 E2
419480 21 A4A5 Coenties Alley 1 C3 continues 9 A5
Dominick St 4 D4
Central Park Wildlife Collister St 4 D5 East 19th St 8 F5
Dorilton, the 11 C1
Conservation Columbia Heights continues 9 A5
Doris C. Freedman
Center 12 F2 (Brooklyn) 2 F3
East 20th St 8 F5
Plaza 12 F3
Central Synagogue Colonnade Row 4 F2
Doughty St continues 9 A5
13 A4 Columbia St 5 C3
East 21st St
(Brooklyn) 2 F3 8 F4
Centre Market Columbia University
Dover St 2 D2 continues 9 A4
Place 4 F4 20 E3
Dover St 5 A5 East 22nd St 8 F4
Centre St 1 C1 Columbus Ave
Downing St 4 D3 continues 9 A4
continues 4 F4 1239 12 D1D3
Downtown Athletic East 23rd St 8 F4
Century continues
Club 1 B4 continues 9 A4
Apartments 12 D2 240895 16 D1D5
Downtown Manhattan East 24th St 9 A4
Chamber of 8961021 20 F4F5
Heliport 2 D4 East 25th St 9 A4
Commerce 1 C3 Columbus Circle 12 D3
Duane Park 1 B1 East 26th St 9 A4
Chambers St 1 A1 Columbus Park 4 F5
Duane St 1 B1 East 27th St 8 F3
Chanin Building 9 A1 Commerce St 3 C2
Duffy Sq 12 E5 continues 9 A3
Charles Lane 3 B2 Commercial St
Duke Ellington East 28th St 8 F3
Charles St 3 B2 (Brooklyn) 10 F2
Blvd 20 E5 continues 9 A3
Charlton St 3 C4 Con Edison
Dunham Pl East 29th St 8 F3
Chase Manhattan Headquarters 9 A5
(Brooklyn) 6 F3 continues 9 A3
Bank 1 C3 Confucius Plaza 5 A5
Dupont St East 30th St 8 F3
Chelsea Historic Conrail Piers 11 A2
(Brooklyn) 10 F3 continues 9 A3
District 7 C5 Conservatory
Dutch St 1 C2 East 31st St 8 F3
Chelsea Hotel 8 D4 Garden 21 B5
Dyer Ave 7 C1 continues 9 A3
Chelsea Park 7 C3 Conservatory Water
Cherokee Place 17 C5 16 F5
East 32nd St 8 F3

Cherry Hill 12 E1 Convent Ave

E continues 9 A3

Cherry St 2 E1 52336 19 A1A3 Eagle St East 33rd St 8 F2

continues 5 B5 Convent Ave 20 F1 (Brooklyn) 10 F3 continues 9 A2

Childrens Museum Convent Hill 20 F1 East 1st St 4 F3 East 34th St 8 F2

of Manhattan 15 C4 Cooper Sq 4 F2 continues 5 A3 continues 9 A2

Childrens Zoo 12 F2 Cooper-Hewitt East 2nd St 4 F2 East 35th St 8 F2

Chinatown 4 F5 Museum 16 F2 continues 5 A2 continues 9 A2

Christopher Park 4 D2 Cooper Union East 3rd St 4 F2 East 36th St 8 F2
Christopher St 3 C2 Building 4 F2 continues 5 A2 continues 9 A2
Chrysler Building 9 A1 Corlears Hook 6 D5 East 4th St 4 F2 East 37th St 8 F2
Chrystie St 5 A3 Corlears Hook continues 5 A2 continues 9 A2
Church of the Park 6 D4 East 5th St 4 F2 East 38th St 8 F2
Ascension 4 E1 Cornelia St 4 D2 continues 5 A2 continues 9 A2
Church of the Holy Cortlandt Alley 4 E5 East 6th St 4 F2 East 39th St 8 F1
Trinity 17 B3 Cortlandt St 1 B2 continues 5 A2 continues 9 A1
Church of the Incarnation Cranberry St East 7th St 4 F2 East 40th St 8 F1
Episcopal 9 A2 (Brooklyn) 2 F3 continues 5 A2 continues 9 A1
Church St 1 B1 Criminal Courts East 8th St 4 F2 East 41st St 8 F1
continues 4 E5 Building 4 F5 continues 5 B2 continues 9 A1
Circle Line Boat Crosby St 4 E4 East 9th St 4 F1 East 42nd St 8 F1
Trip 7 A1 Cunard Building 1 C3 continues 5 A1 continues 9 A1

Each place name is followed by its borough (unless in Manhattan) and then by its Street Finder reference
390  STREET FINDER

East 43rd St 8 F1 East 75th St 16 F5 East 112th St 21 C4 Elizabeth St 4 F3

continues 9 A1 continues 17 A5 East 113th St 22 D4 Elk St 1 C1
East 44th St 12 F5 East 76th St 16 F5 East 114th St 22 E3 Ellis Island 1 A4
continues 13 A5 continues 17 A5 East 115th St 21 C3 Ellis Island Ferry 1 C4
East 45th St 12 F5 East 77th St 16 F5 East 116th St (Luis Muoz Empire Diner 7 C4
continues 13 A5 continues 17 A5 Marin Blvd) 21 C3 Empire State Building 8 F2
East 46th St 12 F5 East 78th St 16 F5 East 117th St 21 C3 Engine Company
continues 13 A5 continues 17 A5 East 118th St 21 C3 No. 31 4 F5
East 47th St 12 F5 East 79th St 16 F4 East 119th St 21 C3 Ericsson Pl 4 D5
continues 13 A5 continues 17 A4 East 120th St 21 C2 Essex St 5 B3
East 48th St 12 F5 East 80th St 16 F4 East 121st St 21 C2 Everitt St (Brooklyn) 2 F2
continues 13 A5 continues 17 A4 East 122nd St 21 C2 Exchange Alley 1 C3
East 49th St 12 F5 East 81st St 16 F4 East 123rd St 21 C2 Exchange Pl 1 C3
continues 13 A5 continues 17 A4 East 124th St 21 C2 Extra Pl 4 F3
East 50th St 12 F4 East 82nd St 16 F4 East 125th St (Martin
continues 13 A4 continues 17 A4 Luther King,
East 51st St 12 F4 East 83rd St 16 F4 Jr. Blvd) 21 C1
F
continues 13 A4 continues 17 A4 East 126th St 21 C1 Fashion Ave (Seventh
East 52nd St 12 F4 East 84th St 16 F4 East 127th St 21 C1 Ave) 15th43rd 8 E1E5
continues 13 A4 continues 17 A4 East 128th St 21 C1 Father Demo Sq 4 D2
East 53rd St 12 F4 East 85th St 16 F3 East 129th St 21 C1 Father Fagan Sq 4 D3
continues 13 A4 continues 17 A3 East 130th St 21 C1 Federal Hall 1 C3
East 54th St 12 F4 East 86th St 16 F3 East Broadway 5 A5 Federal Office 1 B2
continues 13 A4 continues 17 A3 East Channel 14 E1 Federal Reserve Bank 1 C2
East 55th St 12 F4 East 87th St 16 F3 continues 18 E5 Fifth Ave
continues 13 A4 continues 17 A3 East Coast War 183 4 E1E2
East 56th St 12 F3 East 88th St 16 F3 Memorial 1 C4 continues
continues 13 A3 continues 17 A3 East Dr 12 F1 84530 8 F1F5
East 57th St 12 F3 East 89th St 16 F3 continues 16 F1 531910 12 F1F5
continues 13 A3 continues 17 A3 continues 21 B5 (Museum Mile)
East 58th St 12 F3 East 90th St 16 F3 East End Ave 18 D3 9111208 16 F1F5
continues 13 A3 continues 17 A3 East Green 12 F1 12092116 21 C1C5
East 59th St 12 F3 East 91st St 16 F2 East Houston St 4 F3 Finn Sq 4 D5
continues 13 A3 continues 17 A2 continues 5 A3 Fire Boat Station 3 A1
East 60th St 12 F3 East 92nd St 16 F2 East Meadow 16 F1 Fireboat Station 6 D4
continues 13 A3 continues 17 A2 East Rd (Roosevelt First Ave
East 61st St 12 F3 East 93rd St 16 F2 Island) 14 D2 1240 5 A1A3
continues 13 A3 continues 17 A2 East River 2 E5 continues
East 62nd St 12 F2 East 94th St 16 F2 continues 10 D1 241850 9 C1C5
continues 13 A2 continues 17 A2 continues 18 E1 8511361 13 C1C5
East 63rd St 12 F2 East 95th St 16 F2 East River 13621933 17 C1C5
continues 13 A2 continues 17 A2 Residences 13 C3 19342323 22 E1E5
East 64th St 12 F2 East 96th St 16 F2 East River Park 6 D1 First Pl 1 B4
continues 13 A2 continues 17 A2 East Village 5 B2 First Presbyterian
East 65th St 12 F2 East 97th St 16 F1 Edgar Allan Church 4 D1
continues 13 A2 continues 17 A1 Poe St 15 B4 Flatiron Building 8 F4
East 66th St 12 F2 East 98th St 16 F1 Edgar St 1 B3 Fletcher St 2 D3
continues 13 A2 continues 17 A1 Edgecombe Flushing Ave 10 E2
East 67th St 12 F2 East 99th St 17 A1 Ave 19 B1 Forbes Building 4 E1
continues 13 A2 East 100th St 16 F1 Eighth Ave Fordham
East 68th St 12 F1 continues 17 A1 179 3 C1 University 11 C3
continues 13 A1 East 101st St 16 F1 continues Forsyth St 5 A3
East 69th St 12 F1 continues 17 A1 80701 8 D1D5 Fourth Ave 4 F1
continues 13 A1 East 102nd St 16 F1 702948 12 D3D5 Frankfort St 1 C1
East 70th St 12 F1 continues 17 A1 Eldorado Franklin D. Roosevelt
continues 13 A1 East 103rd St 21 C5 Apartments 16 D3 Dr (East River Dr)
East 71st St 12 F1 East 104th St 21 C5 Eldridge St 5 A3 Grand6th 6 D2D4
continues 13 A1 East 105th St 21 C5 Eldridge Street continues
East 72nd St 12 F1 East 106th St 21 C5 Synagogue 5 A5 7th14th 5 C1C2
continues 13 A1 East 107th St 21 C5 Eleventh Ave 15th20th 10 D4E5
East 73rd St 12 F1 East 108th St 21 C4 125 3 A1 21st45th 9 C1C4
continues 13 A1 East 109th St 21 C4 continues 46th64th 13 C2C5
East 74th St 16 F5 East 110th St 21 C4 26572 7 B1B4 65th73rd 14 D1D2
continues 17 A5 East 111th St 21 C4 573885 11 B3B5 74th90th 18 D3D5
 STREET FINDER  391

Franklin D. Roosevelt Greenwich Village 4 E2 Hudson Pk 3 C3 Judson Memorial

(cont) Group Health Insurance Hudson River 1 A2 Church 4 D2
91st101st 17 C1C2 Building 8 D1 continues 3 A2 Juilliard School 11 C2
102nd130th 22 D1E5 Grove Court 3 C2 continues 7 A1
Franklin Pl 4 E5 Grove Pl 3 C2 continues 11 A1 K
Franklin St 4 D5 Grove St 3 C2 continues 15 A1
Kenmare St 4 F4
Franklin St (Brooklyn)10 F3 Guggenheim continues 19 C4
Fraunces Tavern 1 C4 Bandshell 11 C2 Hudson St 1 B1
Kent Ave 6 F1

Frawley Circle 21 B4 Gustave Hartman Sq continues 3 B1

Kent St (Brooklyn) 10 F4

Fred F. French 5 B3 Hugh ONeill Dry Goods King St 3 C3

Building 12 F5 Store 8 E4
Kips Bay Plaza 9 B3

Frederick Douglass Hunter College 13 A1 Knickerbocker

Ave (Eighth Ave) 21 A1
H Huron St (Brooklyn) Village 2 E1

continues 19 B1 Hallets Cove 10 F3

Frederick Douglass (Queens) 18 F3 L
Circle 21 A4 Hamilton Fish Park 5 C3 La Guardia Pl
Freedom Pl 11 B1 Hamilton Grange National
I 4 E2
La Salle St 20 E2
Freeman Alley 4 F3 Monument 19 A1 IBM Building 12 F3
Lafayette St 1 C1
Freeman St Hamilton Heights Independence Plaza continues 4 F2
(Brooklyn) 10 F3 Historic District 19 A2 1 A1
Laight St 3 C5
Frick Collection 12 F1 Hamilton Pl 19 A1 continues 4 D5
Langston Hughes Pl 21 C1
Front St 2 D2 Hamilton Ter 19 A1 India St
Lasker Rink and
Fuller Building 13 A3 Hammarskjld (Brooklyn) 10 F3
Pool 21 B4
Fulton St 1 C2 Plaza 13 B5 International Center of
Legion Sq 1 C3
Furman St (Brooklyn) 2 F3 Hancock Pl 20 F2 Photography 16 F2
Lenox Hill
Hancock Sq 20 F2 Intrepid Sea-Air-Space
Hospital 17 A5
Hanover Sq 1 C3 Museum 11 A5
G Hanover St 1 C3 Irving Trust Operation
Lenox Ave
119397 21 B1B4
Gansevoort St 3 B1 Harlem Meer 21 B4 Center 1 B2
continues
Gay St 4 D2 Harlem River 18 D1 Isaacs-Hendricks
398659 19 C1C3
General Electric continues 22 E1 House 3 C2
Leonard St 4 D5
Building 13 A4 Harlem YMCA 19 C3
Leroy St 4 D2
General Post Office 8 D2 Harrison St 1 A1
General Theological continues 4 D5
J Lever House 13 A4
Lewis St 6 D4
Seminary 7 C4 Harry Delancey Plaza Jackie Robinson
Park Lexington Ave
Gold St 2 D2 5 C4 19 B1
Jackson Ave 1194 9 A1A4
Gouverneur Slip 5 C5 Harry Howard Sq 4 F5
continues
Gouverneur St 5 C4 Haughwort Building 4 E4 (Queens) 10 F1
Governeur St 2 D3 Hayden continues 14 F5
1951003 13 A1A5

Governors Island Planetarium 16 D4 Jackson Sq 3 C1

10041611 17 A1A5

Ferry 2 D4 Heckscher Jackson St 5 C4 16122118 22 D1D5

Grace Church 4 F1 Playground 12 E1 Jacob K. Javits Convention Liberty Island 1 A5

Gracie Mansion 18 D3 Hell Gate 18 F1 Center 7 B2 Liberty Island Ferry 1 C4

Gracie Sq 18 D4 Helmsley Building 13 A5 James St 2 D1 Liberty Pl 1 C2

Gracie Terrace 18 D4 Henderson Pl 18 D3 Jane St 3 B1 Liberty Plaza 1 B3

Gramercy Park 9 A4 Henry Hudson Japan Society 13 B5 Liberty St 1 B2

Grand Army Plaza 12 F3 Parkway 9A 11 B1 Java St Lighthouse Park

Grand Central continues 15 B1 (Brooklyn) 10 F4 (Roosevelt Island) 18 E3
Terminal 9 A1 continues 20 D1 Jay St 1 B1 Lincoln Center 11 C2
continues 13 A5 Henry J. Browne Jeanelle Park 2 D4 Lincoln Plaza 12 D2
Grand St 4 D4 Blvd 15 B3 Jefferson Market Lincoln Sq 12 D2
continues 5 A4 Henry St 2 D1 Courthouse 4 D1 Lincoln Tunnel 7 A1
Grand St (Brooklyn) 6 F2 continues 5 A5 Jefferson Park 22 E4 Lispenard St 4 E5
Grants Tomb 20 D2 Herald Sq 8 E2 Jefferson St 5 B5 Little Church Around
Great Jones St 4 F2 Hester St 4 F5 Jersey St 4 F3 the Corner 8 F3
Greeley Sq 8 F2 continues 5 A4 Jewish Center 15 C3 Little Italy 4 F4
Green St Hogan Pl 4 F5 Jewish Museum 16 F2 Little West 12th St 3 B1
(Brooklyn) 10 F3 Holland Tunnel 3 A5 Jewish Theological Long Island City 14 F2
Greene St 4 E2 Home Savings of Seminary 20 E2 Long Island City Station
Greenpoint Ave America 9 A1 Joan of Arc Park 15 B2 (Queens) 10 F1
(Brooklyn) 10 F4 Horatio St 3 B1 John Jay Park 18 D5 Louis Guvillier Park 22 E2
Greenwich Ave 3 C1 Hotel des Artistes 12 D2 Jones Alley 4 F3 Low Library 20 E3
Greenwich St 1 B1 Howard St 4 E5 Jones St 4 D2 Lower East Side
continues 3 B1 Hubert St 3 C5 J.P. Ward St 1 B3 Tenement Museum 5 A4

Each place name is followed by its borough (unless in Manhattan) and then by its Street Finder reference
392  STREET FINDER

Lower Manhattan 1 C1 Metropolitan Museum New York Historical Old St. Patricks
Ludlow St 5 A3 of Art 16 F4 Society 16 D5 Cathedral 4 F3
Luis Muoz Marin Blvd Metropolitan Opera NYC Dept of Ports Old Slip 2 D3
(E 116th St) 21 C3 House 11 C2 and Terminals 5 C5 Oliver St 2 D1
Lyceum Theater 12 E5 Middagh St (Brooklyn)2 F3 NYC Fire Museum 4 D4 Orange St
Mill Lane 1 C3 NYC Passenger Ship (Brooklyn) 2 F3
Mill Rock Park Terminal (Port Orchard St
M 18 D2
Authority) 11 B4
5 A3
Miller Hwy 11 B2
McCarthy Sq 3 C1 NYC Technical
Milligan Pl 4 D1 P
MacDougal Alley 4 D2 College 7 C1
Minetta La 4 D2
MacDougal St 4 D2 NY County Pace Plaza 1 C1
Minetta St 4 D2
Macys 8 E2 Courthouse 2 D1 Pace University 1 C2
Monroe St 2 E1
Madison Ave NY Hospital 13 C1 Paladino Ave 22 E2
continues 5 B5
1332 9 A1A4 NY Life Insurance Paley Center
Montgomery St 5 C5
Madison Ave 1332 Company 9 A3 for Media, The 12 F4
MONY Tower 12 E4
continues New York Plaza 2 D4 Paramount
Moore St 1 C4
333920 13 A1A5 NY Public Library 8 F1 Building 8 E1
Morgan Library 9 A2
9211449 17 A1A5 NY State Building 4 F5 Park Ave
Morningside Ave 20 F2
14502057 21 C1C5 NY State Theater 1239 9 A1A2
Morningside Dr 20 F2
Madison Sq Garden 8 D2 12 D2 continues
Morningside Park 20 F2
Madison Sq Park 8 F4 NY Stock 240759 13 A1A5
Morris St 1 B4
Madison Sq Plaza 8 F4 Exchange 1 C3 7601300 17 A1A5
Morton St 3 C3
Madison St 2 D1 NY Telephone 13011937 21 C1C5
Mosco St 4 F5
continues 5 B5 Company 1 B2 Park Ave South 9 A3A5
Mott St 4 F3
Maiden Lane 1 C2 NY University 4 E2 Park Pl 1 A1
Mount Morris Historic
Main Ave (Queens) 18 F3 NY University Law Park Row 1 C2
District 21 B2
Main St (Roosevelt Center 4 D2 Park St 1 C1
Mount Morris Park
Island) 14 D1 NY University Medical Parkway 5 C3
West 21 B2
continues 18 E5 Center 9 C3 Patchin Pl 4 D1
Mount Sinai Medical
Majestic NY Yacht Club 12 F5 Pearl St 1 C4
Center 16 F1
Apartments 12 D1 Newton Creek 10 F2 Peck Slip 2 D2
Mount Vernon Hotel
Malcolm X Boulevard Ninth Ave Pedestrian Bridge 20 E3
Museum 13 C2
(Lenox Ave) 21 B3 44581 8 D1D5 Pell St 4 F5
Mulberry St 4 F3
Mangin St 6 D3 continues Pennsylvania
Mulry Sq 3 C1
Manhattan Ave 582908 12 D3D5 Plaza 8 E3
Municipal Building 1 C1
(Brooklyn) 10 F2 Norfolk St 5 B3 Penn Station 8 E2
Murray St 1 A2
Manhattan Ave 20 F2 North 1st St Peretz Sq 5 A3
Museo del Barrio 21 C5
(Brooklyn) 6 F2
Manhattan Bridge 2 F1 Perry St 3 B2
Museum Mile 16 F1
North 3rd St
Manhattan Community Pershing Sq 9 A1
Museum of American (Brooklyn) 6 F2
College 1 A1 Peter Minuit Plaza 1 C4
Folk Art 12 D2
North 4th St
continues 4 D5 Phillip Randolph Sq 21 A3
Museum of American (Brooklyn) 6 F2
Manhattan Marina 10 D4 Pier 1 (Brooklyn) 2 F3
Illustration 13 A2 North 5th St
Marble Collegiate Pier 2 (Brooklyn) 2 F3
Museum of Arts (Brooklyn) 6 F1
Reformed Church 8 F3 Pier 3 (Brooklyn) 2 F4
& Design 12 D3 North 7th St
Marcus Garvey Pier 4 (Brooklyn) 2 F4
Museum of (Brooklyn) 6 F1
Park 21 B2 Pier 5 (Brooklyn) 2 F5
Modern Art 12 F4 North 8th St
Mark Twains House 4 E1 Pier 6 (Brooklyn) 2 D4
Museum of the (Brooklyn) 6 F1
Market Slip 2 E1 Pier 9 2 D4
City of New York 21 C5 North 9th St
Market St 2 E1 Pier 11 2 D3
continues 5 A5
(Brooklyn) 6 F1
Pier 13 2 E3
Marketfield St 1 C4
N North Cove Pier 14 2 E3
Martin Luther King, Jr Nassau St 1 C2
Yacht Harbor 1 A2
Pier 15 2 E3
North End Ave 1 A1
Blvd (W 125th St) 20 E1 National Academy Pier 16 2 E3
North Meadow 16 E1
continues 21 C1 Museum 16 F3 Pier 17 2 E3
North Moore St 4 D5
Memorial Hospital 13 C1 National Arts Club 9 A5 Pier 18 2 E2
Mercer St 4 E2 N.D. Perlman Pl 9 B5 Pier 21 1 A1
Merrill Lynch Liberty Naumberg O Pier 25 1 A1
Plaza 1 C2 Bandshell 12 F1 Old Broadway 20 E1 Pier 26 3 C5
MetLife Building 13 A5 New Amsterdam Old Fulton St Pier 27 3 C5
Metropolitan Ave Theater 8 E1 (Brooklyn) 2 F2 Pier 28 3 C5
(Brooklyn) 6 F2 New Museum of Old Merchants Pier 29 3 B5
Metropolitan Life Contemporary Art 4 F3 House 4 F2 Pier 32 3 B5
Insurance New St 1 C3 Old NY County Pier 34 3 B4
Company 9 A4 News Building 9 B1 Courthouse 1 C1 Pier 35 2 F1
 STREET FINDER  393

Pier 40 3 B4 Prince St 4 D3 Rutherford Pl 9 B5 Second Ave

Pier 42 3 B3 Public Theater 4 F2 Ryders Alley 2 D2 1229 4 F1F3
Pier 44 6 D5 Puck Building 4 F3 continues
Pier 45 3 B3 Pulaski Bridge 10 F1 S 230785 9 B1B5
Pier 46 3 A3 7861392 13 B1B5
Pier 48 3 A2 Q St. Bartholomews 13931995 17 B1B5
Pier 49 3 A2 Church 13 A4
19962485 22 D1D5
Queens County 14 F2 St. Clair Pl 20 D1
Pier 50 3 A2 Second Pl 1 B4
QueensMidtown St. James Pl 2 D1
Pier 51 3 A2 Seventh Ave (Fashion Ave)
Tunnel 945 9 B2 St. John St 1 C2
Pier 52 3 A1 64639 8 E1E5
Queens Plaza North St. John the Baptist
Pier 53 3 A1 640923 12 E3E5
(Queens) 14 F3 Church 8 E3
Pier 54 3 A1 18012214 21 A1A4
Queens Plaza South St. Johns La 4 D5
Pier 56 3 A1 22152474 19 C1C3
(Queens) 14 F3 St. Lukes Hospital
Pier 57 7 B5 Seventh Ave South 3 C1
Queensboro Bridge 13 C3 Center 20 F3
Pier 58 7 B5 Seventh Regiment
Queensbridge Park St. Lukes Pl 3 C3
Pier 59 7 B5 Armory 13 A2
(Queens) 14 E2 St. Marks-in-the-
Pier 60 7 B5 Shakespeare
Pier 61 7 B5 Bowery Church 4 F1
R Garden 16 E4
Pier 62 7 B4 St. Marks Pl 5 A2
Sheep Meadow 12 E1
Pier 64 7 A4 Radio City Music St. Nicholas Ave
Sheridan Sq 3 C2
Pier 66 7 A3 Hall 12 F4 1315 21 A2B4
Sheriff St 5 C3
Pier 67 10 D5 Rainey Park continues
Sherman Sq 11 C1
Pier 68 10 D5 (Queens) 18 E5 316407 20 F1F2
Shinbone Alley 4 E2
Pier 69 10 D4 Randalls Island Park 408569 19 B1B3
Shore Blvd
Pier 70 10 D4 (Bronx) 22 F2 St. Nicholas Historic
(Queens) 18 F1
Pier 72 7 A3 Reade St 1 B1 District 19 B2
Shrine of Elizabeth
Pier 76 7 A2 Recreation Pier 22 F5 St. Nicholas Hotel 4 E4
Ann Seton 1 C4
Pier 81 7 A1 Rector Pl 1 B3 St. Nicholas Park 19 B2
Shubert Alley 12 E5
Pier 83 7 A1 Rector St 1 B3 St. Nicholas Russian
Shubert Theater 12 E5
Pier 84 11 A5 Reinhold Niebuhr Pl 20 D2 Orthodox Cathedral
Singer Building 4 E3
Pier 86 11 A5 Renwick St 3 C4 16 F1
Sixth Ave 1551 4 D1
Pier 88 11 A5 Reservoir 16 E2 St. Nicholas Ter 19 A2
continues
Pier 90 11 A4 R.F. Wagner Sr. Pl 2 D1E2 St. Patricks
5521125 8 E1
Pier 92 11 A4 Ridge St 5 B3 Cathedral 12 F4
11261421 12 F3
Pier 94 11 A4 River St (Brooklyn) 6 F2 St. Pauls Chapel 1 C2
Sniffen Court 9 A2
Pier 95 11 A4 River Ter 1 A1 St. Pauls Chapel 20 E3
Society of
Pier 96 11 A3 Riverside Church 20 D2 St. Paul the Apostle
Illustrators 13 A2
Pier 97 11 A3 Riverside Dr Church 12 D3
SoHo 4 E4
Pier 98 11 A3 22251 15 B2B5 St. Peters St 1 C2
Solomon R Guggenheim
Pier 99 11 A3 continues St. Thomas
Museum 16 F3
Pier A 1 B4 297480 20 D2D5 Church 12 F4
South 1st St
Pike St 5 A5 Riverside Dr East St. Vartans Park 9 B2
(Brooklyn) 6 F2
Pine St 1 C3 252296 15 B1 St. Vincents South 2nd St
Pineapple St continues D1D2 Hospital 3 C1
(Brooklyn) 6 F3
(Brooklyn) 2 F3 Riverside Dr West 15 B1 Salmagundi Club 4 E1
South 3rd St
Pitt St 5 C3 continues 20 D1D2 Samuel A Spiegel (Brooklyn) 6 F3
Platt St 1 C2 Riverside Park 15 B1 Sq 6 D4
South 4th St
Players 9 A5 continues 20 D2 Samuel Dickstein (Brooklyn) 6 F3
Plaza Hotel 12 F3 Riverview Ter 13 C3 Plaza 5 C4
South 5th St
Pleasant Ave 22 E2 Rivington St 5 A3 San Remo (Brooklyn) 6 F3
Police Academy Rockefeller Center 12 F5 Apartments 16 D5
South 6th St
Museum 9 B4 Rockefeller Plaza 12 F4 Sara D. Roosevelt (Brooklyn) 6 F3
Police Headquarters 2 D1 Ronald E. McNair Pl 22 D2 Parkway 5 A3
South 8th St
Police Headquarters Roosevelt Hospital Schapiros Winery 5 B3
(Brooklyn) 6 F4
Building 4 F4 Center 11 C3 Schermerhorn South 9th St
Pomander Walk 15 C2 Roosevelt Island 14 D1 Row 2 D3 (Brooklyn) 6 F4
Port Authority continues 18 D5 Schomburg Center for South 11th St
Building 8 D5 Roosevelt Island Research in Black (Brooklyn) 6 F4
Port Authority Bridge 14 E1 Culture 19 C2 South Cove 1 B4
Bus Terminal 8 D1 Roosevelt Sq 20 F1 Schubert Alley 12 E5 South End Ave 1 B3
Port Authority West Rose St 2 D1 Seagram Building 13 A4 South Ferry Plaza 1 C4
30th St Heliport 7 B3 Rutgers Park 5 B5 Seamans Institute South Gardens 1 B4
Pot Cove Rutgers Slip 5 B5 & Marine South Meadow Tennis
(Queens) 18 F2 Rutgers St 5 B5 Museum 4 D1 Courts 16 E2

Each place name is followed by its borough (unless in Manhattan) and then by its Street Finder reference
394  STREET FINDER

South St 2 D4 Thomas St 1 B1 W West 36th St 7 C2

continues 5 C5 Thompson St 4 D4 West 37th St 7 C2
WaldorfAstoria 13 A5
South St Seaport 2 E2 Tiemann Pl 20 E1 West 38th St 7 C1
South St Viaduct Walker St 4 E5
2 D4 Time Warner Center 12 D3 West 39th St 7 B1
Wall St 1 C3
continues 5 C5 Times Square 8 E1 West 40th St 7 B1
South William St Wall St Ferry Pier 2 D3
1 C3 Tollgate 4 D4 West 41st St 7 B1
Southbridge Wallabout Bay West 42nd St
Tompkins 7 B1
Towers 2 D2 (Brooklyn) 6 E5
West 43rd St
Square Park 5 B1 7 B1
Spring St 3 C4 Wallabout Channel West 44th St
Triborough Bridge 18 F1 11 B5
Spruce St 1 C2 (Brooklyn) 6 F4
West 45th St 11 B5
continues 22 E2
Stable Ct 4 F2 Wanamaker Pl 4 F1
West 46th St
Trimble Pl 1 C1 11 B5
Stanton St 5 A3 Warren St 1 A1
West 47th St
Trinity Church 1 C3 11 B5
Staple St 1 B1 Washington Market West 48th St
Trinity Pl 1 B3 11 B5
State St 1 C4 Park 1 B1
West 49th St 11 B5
Trump Tower 12 F3
Staten Island Ferry 2 D5 Washington Mews 4 E2
West 50th St 11 B4
Tudor City 9 C1
Statue of Liberty 1 A5 Washington Pl 4 E2
West 51st St 11 B4
Tudor City Pl 9 B1
Stone St 1 C4 Washington Sq West 52nd St 11 B4
Twelfth Ave 1539 7 B1
Straus Park 20 E5 East 4 E2 West 53rd St 11 C4
continues
Straus Sq 5 B5 Washington Sq West 54th St 11 B4
540819 11 B3
Strawberry Fields 12 E1 Park 4 D2 West 55th St 11 B4
22402351 20 D1
Studio Museum of Washington Sq West 56th St 11 B3
Harlem 21 B2 Village 4 E2 West 57th St 11 B3
Stuyvesant Alley 4 F1 U Washington St 1 B3 West 58th St 11 B3
Stuyvesant Sq 9 B5 continues 3 B1 West 59th St 11 B3
Union Sq 9 A5
Stuyvesant St 4 F1 Water St 1 C4 West 60th St 11 C3
United Nations
Suffolk St 5 B3 Water St (Brooklyn) 2 F2 West 61st St 11 C3
Headquarters 13 C5
Sullivan St 4 D2 continues 5 C5 West 62nd St 11 C2
continues 9 C1
Surrogates Court/Hall Watts St 3 C4 West 63rd St 12 D2
United Nations
of Records 1 C1 Waverly Pl 3 C1 West 64th St 11 C2
Plaza 13 C5
Sutton Place 13 C3 W.C. Handys Pl 12 E4 West 65th St 11 C2
United States Coast
Sutton Place Weehawken St 3 B3 West 66th St 11 C2
Guard 1 C5
South 13 C4 Welling St West 67th St 11 C2
United States
Swing St (Queens) 18 F3 West 68th St 11 C1
Courthouse 2 D1
(W 52nd St) 12 F4 West 3rd St 4 D2 West 69th St 11 C1
United States
Sylvan Pl 22 D2 West 4th St 3 C1 West 70th St 11 B1
Custom House 1 C4
Sylvias 21 B1 West 6th St 4 D2 West 71st St 11 B1
United States Naval
Szold Pl 5 C1 West 8th St 4 D2 West 72nd St 11 B1
Reserve Center
West 9th St 4 D1 West 73rd St 11 B1
(Brooklyn) 6 F5
West 10th St 3 C2 West 74th St 15 B5
T US Parcel Post
West 11th St 3 B2 West 75th St 15 B5
Building 7 C3
Taras Shevchenko West 12th St 3 B2 West 76th St 15 B5
United States Post
Pl 4 F2 West 13th St 3 B1 West 77th St 15 B5
Office 1 B2
Teachers College, West 14th St 3 B1 West 78th St 15 B5
University Pl 4 E1
Columbia West 15th St 7 C5 West 79th St 15 B4
University 20 E1 West 16th St 7 C5 West 80th St 15 B4
V West 17th St
Temple Emanu-El 12 F2 7 C5 West 81st St 15 B4
Tenth Ave Vandam St 3 C4 West 18th St 7 C5 West 82nd St 15 B4
2057 3 A1 Vanderbilt Ave 13 A5 West 19th St 7 C5 West 83rd St 15 B4
continues Varick St 4 D3 West 20th St 7 C5 West 84th St 16 D4
58575 7 C1C5 Verdi Sq 11 C1 West 21st St 7 C4 West 85th St 15 B3
576890 11 C3C5 Vernon Blvd West 22nd St 7 C4 West 86th St 15 B3
Thames St 1 C3 (Queens) 10 F1 West 23rd St 7 B4 West 87th St 15 B3
Theater Alley 1 C2 continues 14 F1 West 24th St 7 B4 West 88th St 15 B3
Theater Row 7 C1 continues 18 F3 West 25th St 7 B4 West 89th St 15 B3
Theodore Roosevelt Vernon St West 26th St 7 B3 West 90th St (Henry J.
Birthplace 9 A5 (Queens) 14 F5 West 27th St 7 B3 Browne Blvd) 15 B3
Third Ave Vesey St 1 B2 West 28th St 7 B3 West 91st St 15 B2
1125 4 F1F2 Vestry St 3 C5 West 29th St 7 B3 West 92nd St 15 B2
continues Vietnam Veterans West 30th St 7 B3 West 93rd St 15 B2
126659 9 B1B5 Plaza 2 D4 West 31st St 7 C3 West 94th St 15 B2
6601270 13 B1B5 Village Sq 4 D1 West 32nd St 8 E3 West 95th St 15 B2
12711800 17 B1B5 Villard Houses 13 A4 West 33rd St 7 B2 West 96th St 15 B2
18012340 22 D1D5 Vine St West 34th St 7 B2 West 97th St 15 B1
Third Pl 1 B3 (Brooklyn) 2 F3 West 35th St 7 C2 West 98th St 15 B1
 STREET FINDER  395

West 99th St 15 B1 West 122nd St 20 D2 West 145th St 19 A1 William St 1 C2

West 100th St 15 B1 continues 21 A2 West Broadway 1 B1 Williamsburg
West 101st St 15 B1 West 123rd St 20 E2 West Broadway Bridge 6 D3
West 102nd St 15 B1 continues 21 A2 continues 4 E3 Willis Ave
West 103rd St 20 E5 West 124th St 21 A2 West Channel 14 D1 Bridge 22 E1
West 104th St 20 E5 West 125th St 21 A1 continues 18 D4 Wollman
West 105th St 20 E5 continues 20 F2 West Dr 12 E1 Rink 12 F2
West 106th St (Duke West 125th St (Martin continues 16 E1 Woolworth
Ellington Blvd) 20 E5 Luther King, continues 21 A4 Building 1 C2
West 107th St 20 E5 Jr Blvd) 20 D1 West End Ave 11 B1 Wooster St 4 E3
West 108th St 20 E4 West 126th St 20 E1 continues 15 B1 World Financial
West 109th St 20 E4 continues 21 A1 continues 20 E5 Center 1 A2
West 111th St 20 D4 West 127th St 20 F1 West Houston St 3 C3 World Trade
continues 21 A4 continues 21 A1 West Rd (Roosevelt Center 1 B2
West 112th St 20 D4 West 128th St 20 F1 Island) 14 D2 Worth
continues 21 A4 continues 21 A1 West St 1 A1 Monument 8 F4
West 113th St 20 D4 West 129th St 20 E1 continues 3 A1 Worth Sq 8 F4
continues 21 A4 continues 21 A1 West St Worth St 1 C1
West 114th St 20 D3 West 130th St 20 D1 (Brooklyn) 10 F3 Wythe Ave
continues 21 A3 continues 19 A1 West St Viaduct 6 D5 (Brooklyn) 6 F1
West 115th St 20 D3 West 131st St 19 B3 West Thames St 1 B3
continues 21 A3 West 132nd St 19 B3 West Washington Pl 4 D2
West 116th St 20 D3 West 133rd St 19 B3 Western Union
Y
continues 21 A3 West 134th St 19 B3 Building 1 B1 York Ave
West 117th St 20 F3 West 135th St 19 A3 Western Union 11131369 13 C1C3
continues 21 A3 West 136th St 19 A2 International Plaza 1 B4 continues
West 118th St 20 F3 West 137th St 19 B2 Westside Highway 9A 13701694 17 C2C5
continues 21 A3 West 138th St 19 A2 (West St) 1 B2 York St 4 D5
West 119th St 20 D3 West 139th St 19 A2 White St 4 E5
continues 21 A3 West 140th St 19 A2 Whitehall St 1 C4
West 120th St 20 E2 West 141st St 19 A1 Whitney Museum of
continues 21 A2 West 142nd St 19 A1 American Art 17 A5
West 121st St 20 E2 West 143rd St 19 A1 W.H. Seward Park 5 B5
continues 21 A2 West 144th St 19 A1 Willett St 5 C4

Each place name is followed by its borough (unless in Manhattan) and then by its Street Finder reference
 207
WORTH STREET

STREET
T
NS
RISO

320
T
NCE EE
HAR

LAF
25 STR
PIER NDE
EPE J AY

STA
IND PLAZA THOMAS

HU

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Manhattan STREET

BROADWAY

TRIMBLE
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PLACE

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TE
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College
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ON

STR
AN DUANE STREET

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P
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EE

EET
WASHINGTON STREET ANDREW'S
READE

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21 MARKET PARK STREET PLAZA
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Chambers St-

NW
C H A M B E R S A.C Surrogate's Court/ Chambers St
S T R E E T
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STREET

ICH
ROCKEFELLER CHAMB ERS STREET
Chambers St

ST
PARK Municipal

STREET

Y
1.2.3
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S T R E E T Building
I V E R

W A R R E N WARREN

BROADWA
STREET Old NY County

RE
17
Brooklyn

WEST
TEARDROP Courthouse

ST
Bridge-
PARK
City Hall City Hall
ET M U R R AY

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Operation Center LO W E R Woolworth SPR
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City Ferry Federal EE
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PA
US Post Office

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219
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AT R
STREET Lower

ET
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THE
STREET World Trade Manhattan

RE
NORTH

Center ANN Hospital

ST
STREET
World Financial E St Paul's

CHURCH STREET
Center Chapel Fulton St
FULTON A.C.4.5
AT&T STREET
National

DUTCH ST
September 11 Building Fulton St
DEY STRE
ET J.Z Fulton St
Memorial and 2.3
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Museum Cortlandt St

NASSAU
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R ET
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NORTH COVE

T
CORTLANDT ST MA

STREE
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LIBERTY
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LIBERTY STREET LA
LIBER NE
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Chamber of ET
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Exchange ET
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Plaza
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PARK T R
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NEW Castle Clinton

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Ann Seton PETER MINUIT
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AND ELLIS ISLANDS War Memorial Battery
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1 Building

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PARK FERRIES TO STATEN ISLAND
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460 300 200 14th St
400

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PIER 26
 WES T 1 4TH S T RE E T EAST 14TH STREET

AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS (SIXTH AVE)

100 1 1 100
Third Ave
Sixth Ave 14th St- L
14th St- Union Sq

106
837

107
FO
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THIRD
AVENUE
4.5.6
WEST 13TH STREET L.N.Q.R EAST 13TH STREET

BRO
84

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Seaman's Institute

PLACE

2
Forbes
and Marine Building

TH
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Museum WEST 12TH STREET EAST 12TH STREET

STUYVESANT
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SA
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ST
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MACDOUGAL ST
GA

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PL

MACDOUGAL WASHINGTON MEWS Building

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WASHINGTON SQUARE EAST

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STREET
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E W A S H I N G T O N
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GREEN E

A.B.C.D.E.F.M

Y
STABLE EAST 5TH STREET
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ST

WA SHI NG TO CT

BROADWA
N SQ UA RE University
S

The New York SO UT H

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BO
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BL
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ST

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611

6
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IN

284
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490

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487

STREE T
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610

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Building
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STREET

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Patrick's Cathedral
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AN
STREET

ET
STREET
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STR

ST
BROADW
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STR
EET

EET
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New York City

CLE

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V
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484 STREET
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IX

WEST
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STR 442
CENTRE MKT PLACE
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TS SOHO
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T
TOLLGATE WA Police
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463

124

Headquarters
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BAXTER STREET

Canal St 417 Canal St

A.C.E
5

ET 1
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307

ST

HOWARD
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ST

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419

120

RE Canal St HESTER
279

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Independence FR
AN
ON
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335

SC
74

CATHERINE Building MO
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 EAST 14TH STREET E A S T 1 4 T H S T R E E T
300 500 600 700
400

F R A
First Ave

219
L

N K L
EAST 13TH STREET EAST 13TH STREET

F I R S T

A V E N U E

A V E N U E

I N
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EAST 12TH STREET EAST 12TH STREET

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EAST 10TH STREET EAST 10TH STREET

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A V E N U E
A V E N U E

A V E N U E

EAST 5TH STREET

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E A S T 2 N D S T R E E T G U S TAV E HARTMAN SQUARE

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SHERI
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EAST FISH PARK

M B I A
Angel Orensanz
SUFF
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Second Ave
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LUDL

Center
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F
TON
208

ESSEX
209

OLK
FORS

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OW

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LO W E R E A S T S I D E
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MIDTOWN
DWA

W EST 47 T H S T R E E T WEST 47TH STREET EAST 47TH

STREET
Diamond District
Y

AVENUE)
A V E N U E

A V E N U E

W EST 46 T H S T R E E T W E S T 4 6 T H S TREET EAST 46TH ST

DUFFY
SQUARE Lyceum Fred F French
Theater Building
WEST 45 T H S T R E E T W E S T 4 5 T H S T R E ET EAST 45TH ST
SHUBERT

Algonquin New York

1514
ALLEY

1141

Shubert
701

Hotel Yacht Club

530

Theater
W E ST 4 4 T H S T RE E T WEST 44TH STREET EAST 44TH ST
 EAST 73RD STREET

1250

1344
760

1353
E A S T 7 2 N D S T R E E T EAST 72ND STREET
100 200 300 400

1231
E A S T 7 1 S T S T R E E TUPPER EAST 71ST STREET

EAST SIDE
PARK

F I R S T
Asia

L E X I N G T O N
Society

T H I R D

S E C O N D

Y O R K
E A S T 7 0 T H S T R E E T EAST 70TH STREET New York-
M A D I S O N

Presbyterian
Hospital
E A S T 6 9 T H S T R E E T EAST 69TH STREET

Hunter College
E A S T 6 8 T H S T R E E T EAST 68TH STREET
68th Street- Memorial
Hunter College Hospital
6
E A S T 6 7 T H S T R E E T EAST 67TH STREET

A V E N U E
Park
AVENUE

A V E N U E

A V E N U E
A V E N U E
Avenue
A V E N U E

Armory
A V E N U E

E A S T 6 6 T H S T R E E T EAST 66TH STREET

E A S T 6 5 T H S T R E E T EAST 65TH STREET

E A S T 6 4 T H S T R E E T EAST 64TH STREET

E A S T 6 3 R D S T R E E T EAST 63RD STREET

Museum of Lexington Avenue-
American Society of 63rd Street
Illustration Illustrators F
E A S T 6 2 N D S T R E E T EAST 62ND STREET
LEXINGTON
PARK

Mount Vernon
THIRD

SECOND

FIRST Hotel Museum

E A S T 6 1 S T S T R E E T EAST 61ST STREET
M A D I S O N

1102

1113
59th St-
1010

Lexington Ave
520

N.Q.R
E A S T 6 0 T H S T R E E T EAST 60TH STREET
502

991

Bloomingdale's
AVENUE

E A S T 5 9 T H S T R E E T EAST 59TH STREET

SUTTON PLACE
AVENUE
AVENUE

RIVERVIEW
59th Street
AVENUE

4.5.6 TERR
AVENUE

E A S T 5 8 T H S T R E E T EAST 58TH STREET

Fuller
Building
1083

EAST 57TH STREET EAST 57TH STREET

100 200 300 400
1066
A V E N U E

UTH

E A S T 5 6 TH S T R E E T EAST 56TH STREET

915

1006

SUTTON PLACE SO
421

E A S T 5 5 T H S T R E E T EAST 55TH STREET

Central
Synagogue
E A S T 5 4 T H S T R E E T EAST 54TH STREET
Lever Citigroup
Center
DR IV E)

House Lexington Avenue-

53rd St
E A S T 5 3 R D E.M S T R E E T EAST 53RD STREET
T R I VE R

Seagram
Building
FIRST
PARK

E A S T 5 2 N D S T R E E T EAST 52ND STREET

I V E ( E AS

Villard General Electric

Houses Building
E A S T 5 1 S T S T R E E T EAST 51ST STREET
SE VE LT D R

51st Street
St Bartholomew's 6
Church
SECOND
THIRD

E A S T 5 0 T H S T R E E T EAST 50TH STREET

AVENUE

I N D RO O
BEEKMAN
PLACE

Waldorf-
L E X I N G T ON

Astoria
M A D I S O N

E A S T 4 9 T H S T R E E T EAST 49TH STREET

AVENUE

F RA N K L

E A S T 4 8 T H S T R E E T

Japan Society
AVE NU E

AVENUE

E A S T 4 7 T H S T R E E T HAMMARSKJOLD PLAZA
UNITED NATIONS PLAZA
240

United Nations
AV ENUE

E A S T 4 6 T H S T R E E T
Headquarters
A V E N U E

VANDERBILT AVENUE

Helmsley
Building
E A S T 4 5 T H S T R E E T
824
702

MetLife 1&2 United

Building
838

Nations Plaza
EAST 44TH STREET
 VE )

V E R N O N
RIVER DRI

BLACKWELL
PARK
Roosevelt Island Bridge
36TH AVENUE
DRIVE (EAST

1 2 T H

1 3 T H
1 1 T H
1 0 T H
9 T H
B O U L E V A R
ROOSEVELT

3 7 T H A V E N U E

S T R E E T
Channel

S T R E E T
E E T

S T R E E T
S T R E E T

S T R E E T
FRANKLIN D

Channel
S T R

D
A V E N U E

E T
3 8 T H

S T R E
N

LO N G I S L A N D
M A I

CITY
West

E E T

E T
East

1 3 T H
S T R E
S T R
4 0 T
H

A R D
A V E
N U E

L E V

H
1 0 T

1 2 T H
B O U
Roosevelt Island 4002 4 1 S T
N O N

F A V E N
U E
QU E E N S
V E R

B R ID G E
R O O S E V E LT PA R K
I SLAND QUEENS
A E R I A L T R A M WAY
COUNTY
41ST ROAD
Queensboro Bridge
Q U E E N S P L A Z A N O R T H

Queensboro Bridge
A D

A D

ARD

Q U E E N S P L A Z A S O U T H
R O

R O

E T
E T
BOULEV

E E T

E T
S T R E
S T R E

S T R E
S T R
S T
T

S T
W E S

E A

VERNON

4 3 R D
S T

A V E N U
E
9 T H

1 0 T H

4302
1 2 T H
1 1 T

1 3 T H

4 3 R
2 1 S T

D
R O A
D
4302
Channel

nel

U E
E N
A V
Chan

T H
4 4
A D
R O
R O A D

T H
4 4
West

VE
A D

RI
H D
East

44T
R O

E
I V
D R U E
W E S T

E N
T H A V
4 4
T

T H
11T
E A S

4 5
5TH

A D
STR

R O
EET

T H
H

4 5
U E
E N
A V
VER

T H
4 6
NO

A D
R O
N

T H
STR

4 6
5 T
H

EET

E
NU
AVE
STR

H A D
47T R O
E
NU
EET

T H
4 7
S T

VE
NA
R E

SO

U E
E N
CK
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A V
JA

T H
4 8
 WEST 102ND ST

839

2654
RIV
RIVERSIDE

ERS
WEST 101ST STREET

RIVERSIDE D RI
PA R K

H E

ID E DRIV
N R

BROADWAY
WEST

AMSTERDAM
WEST 100TH STREET

END
WEST 99TH STREET

H U

EAS
VE
D S

T
W

AVENUE
WEST 98TH STREET

E
S
O N

T
WEST 97TH STREET

P A R K W A Y
96th Street

734
1.2.3
WEST 96TH STREET
300

AVENUE
721

2538

721
WEST 95TH STREET

POMAN DER
WALK
9 A

WEST 94TH STREET

UPPER
WEST 93RD STREET WEST
H u d s o n

SIDE
WEST 92ND STREET
JOAN
OF ARC
PA R K WEST 91ST STREET

WEST 90TH B R O A D WAY STREET

WEST

AMSTERDAM
WEST 89TH STREET
END

WEST 88TH STREET

AVENUE

WEST 87TH STREET

Jewish
2361

540

Center
540
140

353
WEST 86TH STREET 86th Street
300 282 1 176
R i v e r

2342

521
525

AVENUE

WEST 85TH STREET

EDGAR ALLAN POE STREET

R
I V
E

WEST 83RD STREET

R

Children's
S I

Museum of
D E

Manhattan
H E

WEST 82ND STREET

N R

RIVERSIDE
Y

PA R K
D R I

WEST 81ST STREET

V E
H U D

WEST 80TH STREET

S O N

W E S T 7 9 T H S T R E E T
316 272 174
79th Street
2201

1
380
380

AMSTERDAM
P A R K W A Y

WEST 78TH STREET

WEST

Boat
BR O A

Basin
WEST 77TH STREET
END

D W

WEST 76TH STREET

AVENUE
AVENUE

A Y2121

WEST 75TH ST
22

WEST 74TH ST
Ansonia
279
281

Hotel
 C E N T R A L
The Pool
C O L U M B U S

WEST 101ST ST NORTH MEADOW EAST 101ST ST

1189
E
V
I

E
R

I V
D
WEST 100TH STREET B A L L Mount
Sinai

D R
W E S T
F I E L D Medical

PA R K
Center
EAST

E A S T
MEADOW
AV ENUE

EAST 98TH ST
WEST

St Nicholas Russian
Orthodox Cathedral
EAST 97TH ST
WEST 97TH STREET D
97 TH S T R EET T ROA
RANSVE RSE

1149
360

FIFTH
EAST 96TH
WEST 96TH STREET
100 2
96th Street
B.C CENTRAL 2 ST

SOUTH EAST 95TH ST

WEST 95TH STREET MEADOW
TENNIS COURTS

EAST 94TH ST
WEST 94TH STREET

AVENUE
EAST
93RD ST
WEST 93RD STREET
Jewish
Museum
EAST 92ND ST
WEST 92ND STREET

J a c q u e l i n e
WEST 91ST STREET K e n n e d y Cooper-Hewitt
Museum
Eldorado
Apartments O n a s s i s EAST 90TH ST
(HENRY J BROWNE BOULEVARD) National
R e s e r v o i r Academy
CENTRAL

Museum
COLUMBUS

WEST 89TH STREET

Solomon R
Guggenheim
Museum
WEST 88TH STREET EAST 88TH ST
PARK

(MUSEUM
EAST 87TH ST
WEST 87TH STREET
1050
262

E T T R A N S V ERS
2
86TH STRE E EAST 86TH ST
WEST 86TH STREET 86th Street
100 56 2 B.C R Neue
O
A Gallerie
D
AVE NUE

WEST 85TH STREET

PARK EAST 85TH ST
W EST

EAST 84TH ST
WEST 84TH STREET
MILE)

EAST 83RD ST
WEST 83RD STREET T H E G R E AT
LAWN EAST
82ND ST
WEST 82ND STREET
Metropolitan
Museum
of Art
81st Street- EAST 81ST ST
WEST 81ST STREET Museum of Natural History
B.C
Delacorte
SHAKESPEARE Theater EAST 80TH ST
Rose Center for
Earth and Space GARDEN Belvedere Belvedere Lake
Castle
EAST
ANSVERSE ROAD 79TH ST
79TH STREET TR 2
100
CE NT RA L

970
COLUM BU S

American Museum of
EAST 78TH ST
Natural History

EAST 77TH ST
WEST 77TH STREET

New-York
Historical Society EAST
PAR K

76TH ST
WEST 76TH STREET
Alice in
Wonderland
THE
EAST 75TH ST
AVE NU E

WEST 75TH STREET

RAMBLE
151

Boathouse
930

San Remo
Central Park
W E ST

Apartments
Lake Conservatory
WEST 74TH STREET Water EAST 74TH ST

Bow Bridge
 PARK

SECOND
EAST 101ST STREET EAST 101ST STREET

LEXINGTON

FIRST
1934
MADISON

THIRD
1800
EAST 100TH STREET EAST 100TH STREET

EAST 99TH STREET EAST 99TH STREET

AVENUE

AVENUE
AVENUE
AVENUE
AVENUE

AVENUE
EAST 98TH STREET

FR
AN
97TH STREET EAST 97TH ST
EAST

KLIN D ROO
1855
1708
1236

EAST 96TH STREET EAST 96TH STREET

200 300

1841
100 96th Street
1695
1221

6
EAST 95TH STREET EAST 95TH STREET

SE
VE
LT
94TH STREET EAST 94TH STREET
EAST

D
R
IV
E
EAST 93RD STREET

(E
EAST 93RD STREET

A
S
T
R
IV
STREET
E
EAST 92ND STREET EAST 92ND R
D
R
IV
E
91ST STREET )
EAST 91ST STREET EAST
SECOND
PARK

L E X I N G T O N

THIRD
MA D I SO N

FIRST

Y O R K
STREET EAST 90TH STREET
EAST 90TH

EAST 89TH STREET

EAST 89TH STREET
AVENUE

EAST 88TH STREET

EAST 88TH STREET
AVENUE

AVENUE

Church of the
A V E N U E
AVENUE
AV E N U E

Holy Trinity

STREET EAST 87TH STREET

87TH
AV E N U E

EAST
1633
1530

1652
1044

E A S T 8 6 T H S T R E E T EAST 86TH STREET

100 200 300 400 500
86th Street
1610
1637
1021

1511

4.5.6

EAST 85TH STREET EAST 85TH STREET

84TH STREET EAST 84TH STREET

EAST

STREET EAST 83RD STREET

EAST 83RD

STREET EAST 82ND STREET

EAST 82ND

EAST 81ST STREET

EAST 81ST STREET

EAST 80TH STREET

EAST 80TH STREET
1498
1513
1491
903

E A S T 7 9 T H S T R E E T EAST 79TH STREET 400 500

100 200 300
LEXINGTON

1477
1496
PARK

1374
878

SECOND
THIRD

Y O R K
F IRS T

EAST 78TH STREET

MADISON

STREET
CHEROKEE PL

EAST 78TH

STREET EAST 77TH STREET

EAST 77TH
Lennox Hill
Hospital 77th Street
6
STREET EAST 76TH STREET
EAST 76TH
A V E N U E
AVENUE

AV EN UE
AVENUE

AVENUE
AVENUE
AVENUE

EAST 75TH STREET EAST 75TH STREET

Whitney
EAST 74TH STREET
Museum of EAST 74TH STREET
American Art
1271

1370
1361
785
 Ro
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Pot Cove

14TH
MILL
ROCK

12TH

STREE
PARK

9TH

T
N U E

STREE
A V E

4TH
H
2 6 T

3RD
2ND

STREE

T
STREET

8TH
STREET

T
STREET

N U E
A V E
1ST

2 7 T H

ASTORIA

STREET
STREE

28TH AVENUE

E
T

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BOULEV E
ASTORIA V
A
E A S T

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WE
V E R N O N

Gracie
Mansion
A V E N U E

D
CARL ROA
HENDERSON PL

30TH
SCHURZ
PARK

DRIVE
B O U L E V A R D

30TH
Hallets
1 2 T H
3101

LIGHTHOUSE Cove
PARK

31ST AVENUE
GRACIE SQ
V E )

31ST DRIVE
S O CRAT E S
DR I

GRACIE
TERRACE S C U LP T U RE
G ARD E N
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B R O A
D W A Y
ROOSEVELT
R I V

33RD
ISLAND
( E A S T

n e l

AVE
e l

1 3 T H

ROAD
D R I V E

33RD
n n
C h a n

E E T
S T R

C h a
R OO S E V E LT

S T R E E T
1 2 T H
1 1 T H
1 0 T H
V E R N O N

9 T H

JO HN
J AY
P A RK RAINEY A V E N U E
W e s t

3 4 T H
PARK
3402
E a s t
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S T R E E T

S T R E E T
M A I

S T R E E T
S T R E E T
D

B O U L E VA R
F R A N K L I N

A V E N U E
D

3 5 T H
BLACKWELL
PARK
 JACKIE
ROBINSON
PA R K 145th Street
3
AVENUE

AVENUE
WEST 145TH STREET W E S T 1 4 5 T H S T R E E T

AVENUE
AVENUE)
EDGEC

AVENUE)
AVENU
WEST 144TH STREET W E S T 1 4 4 T H S T R E E T

OMBE
H A M I LT O N
TERRACE

HURST
CONVENT
WEST 143RD ST W E S T 1 4 3 R D S T R E E T

AVENU

(SEVENTH
BRAD
AMSTERDAM
CE

(EIGHTH
E
LA

WEST 142ND STREET W E S T 1 4 2 N D S T R E E T

N P

LENOX
Hamilton Grange
TO

National Monument
MIL

W E S T 1 4 1 S T S T R E E T
HA

WEST 141ST STREET

Hamilton Heights

BOULEVARD
BOULEVARD
WEST 140TH ST W E S T 1 4 0 T H S T R E E T
S A I N

WEST 139TH ST W E S T 1 3 9 T H S T R E E T
S T

St Nicholas
AVENUE

Historic District
WEST 138TH ST W E S T 1 3 8 T H S T R E E T
N I C H O

JR
Abyssinian

AV E N U E
Baptist Church
N I C H

DOUGLASS
AVENUE

City

POWELL,
W E S T 1 3 7 T H S T R E E T
CONVENT

L A

ST NIC

O L A S
S

WEST 136TH ST W E S T 1 3 6 T H S T R E E T
T E R R A C E

College of Schomburg Center for

Research in Black Culture
135th Street
HOLAS

135th Street
B.C 2.3
WEST 135TH STREET W E S T 1 3 5 T H S T R E E T
FREDERICK

CLAYTON

Harlem
A V E N

the YMCA

L E N O X
AMSTERDAM

W E S T 1 3 4 T H S T R E E T
PARK

U E

W E S T 1 3 3 R D S T R E E T
University
ADAM

W E S T 1 3 2 N D S T R E E T

of NY

W E S T 1 3 1 S T S T R E E T
H u d s o n
R i v e r
 TWELFTH

ST
CO
52

N I CH O LA S
NV
WEST 130TH STREET C ON V E N T H ILL

EN

AVENUE
1401
W
ES

AVE

T
T
12
5T WEST 129TH STREET
ST CLAIR PLACE H
ST 125th

T E R R A C E
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AV
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WA
BRO OLD
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12
RI
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TH RE
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TIEMANN PLACE WEST 127TH STREET
KIN
R I V E RSID

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G,
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BROA D WAY
JR
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C L A R E M O N T
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DRIVE

ST
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AMSTERDAM
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ROOSEVELT
WEST 125TH ST
H UDSO N

LA SALLE STREET SQUARE

EA S T

HA 388 125th 323

NCO
DRIVE

CK Street
P LAC A.B.C.D
E
HANCOCK
SQUARE

Grant's
PAR KW

A V E N U E

Tomb
WE S

WEST 123RD STREET WEST 123RD ST

Jewish Theological

MORNINGSIDE
T

Seminary
AY

WEST 122ND STREET WEST 122ND ST

MANHATTAN
Riverside
9A

AVENUE
Church
WEST 121ST STREET WEST 121ST STREET

Teachers College,
Columbia University
WEST 120TH STREET
D R I V E

REINHOLD NIEBUHR WEST 120TH STREET

PLACE
MORNINGSIDE
P A R K WEST 119TH STREET
W 119TH
1181

ST
MORNINGSIDE

AVENUE
RIVERSIDE St Paul's
WEST 118TH STREET

AVENUE
PA R K Low Chapel
Library
R I V E R S I D E

WEST 117TH STREET

Columbia
DRIVE

116th Street-
Columbia University A H Sulzberger WEST 116TH ST
1 Plaza
HEN RY

University
WEST 115TH ST W ES T 115TH S TREET
Butler
Library
WEST 114TH STREET
H U D S OP N

B R O ADWAY

St Lukes Hospital
Center
WEST 113TH STREET
AR KWAY

MORNINGSIDE
WEST 112TH STREET PA R K
Cathedral of St John
WEST 111TH STREET
the Divine
9A

2834
380

311
Cathedral Parkway C AT H E D R A L PA R K WAY
1 370
995
RIVERSIDE

W E S T 1 0 9 T H S T R E E T
AM ST ERD AM

M A N H A T T A N
COLUMBU S

W E S T 1 0 8 T H S T R E E T

W E S T 1 0 7 T H S T R E E T
BR

(DUKE ELLINGTON BOULEVARD)

OA

STRAUS PARK WEST 106TH STREET

WE ST
DRIVE

RIVERSIDE
DW

AV EN UE

WEST 105TH STREET

PA R K
AV E NU E
E ND

AY

A V E N U E

WEST 104TH STREET

AV E NUE

WEST 103RD 103rd Street

STREET 1
856
296

2675
858
 2116

1914
398

PARK
FIFTH

M A D I S O N
ADAM
EAST 130TH STREET
FREDERICK

WEST 130TH STREET

MALCOLM
W E S T 1 2 9 T H S T R E E T EAST 129TH STREET

CLAYTON
HARLEM
EAST 128TH STREET

AVENUE
STREET

AVENUE
WEST 128TH

A V E N U E
DOUGLASS

LANGSTON
WEST 127TH STREET HUGHES PLACE
POWELL,

Sylvia's
WEST 126TH STREET

2021
2089

Apollo
AFRICAN
Theater SQUARE
125th Street
2.3 EAST 125TH STREET
200 1 1
2090

Studio Museum Lenox

AV E N U E

2000
JR

of Harlem Museum
WEST 124TH STREET EAST 124TH STREET
BOULEVARD

M O U N T M O R R I S PA R K W E S T
BOULEVARD
Mount Morris EAST 123RD STREET
WEST 123RD STREET MARCUS

EAST 122ND STREET

WEST 122ND STREET
Historic
GARVEY
(SEVENTH

EAST 121ST STREET

WEST 121ST STREET PARK
(EIGHTH

District
S

WEST 120TH STREET EAST 120TH STREET

T

AVENUE)

WEST 119TH STREET

FIFTH

EAST 119TH STREET

M A D I S O N
(LENOX
N

PARK
AV E N U E )

I C

WEST 118TH STREET EAST 118TH STREET

H
O
L

WEST 117TH STREET EAST 117TH STREET

A

1921
S

1636
1416

WEST 116TH STREET 116th Street EAST 116TH STREET

100 2.3 1 1
116th Street 200 PHILLIP
1399

1617
B.C RANDOLPH
SQUARE
WEST 115TH STREET EAST 115TH STREET
AVENUE
ADAM CLAYTON POWELL, JR BOULEVARD

AVENUE

A V E N U E
AVENUE)
A
V

WEST 114TH STREET

E
N
U

WEST 113TH STREET

E

WEST 112TH STREET EAST 112TH STREET

WEST 111TH STREET EAST 111TH STREET

1510
2

FREDERICK 200 100 1

DOUGLASS
CIRCLE C E N T R AL PA R K NO RT H FRAWLEY EAST 110TH STREET
Central Park North- CIRCLE
1489

110th Street- 110th Street Dana Discovery

Cathedral Parkway 2.3 Center
B.C EAST 109TH STREET
Harlem Meer
CENTRAL

Lasker Rink EAST 108TH STREET

and Pool
PARK
FIFTH

MADISON

C E N T R A L EAST 107TH ST
PARK

W
EAST 106TH STREET
E
S

THE
T

GREAT
D R I V E

AVENUE
S T

EAST 105TH ST
HILL
AVENUE
AVENUE

Conservatory
Garden Museo del
D R I V

The
WEST

Barrio
Loch
EAST 104TH STREET

P A R K
E

Museum of the City of

103rd Street New York
B.C EAST 103RD STREET
1209
419
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rl

e
dg
em

Bri
ue
en
Av
llis
Wi
LEXINGTON

R
iv
SECOND
EAST 127TH STREET
e
THIRD

r
EAST 126TH STREET
2298

125th Street
4.5.6
(MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR BLVD)
100 200 Robert F. Kennedy Bridge
2281

LOU I S

F R
AVENUE

GUVILLIER
AVENUE

RANDALL'S
AVENUE

PARK

A
N
K L I
N R D
PALA OO
DINO
S
ISLAND

E
V
E
L
PARK

T
AV

D
RONALD E MCNAIR
PLACE

R
EN

IV
UE

E
(E
SYLVAN PL

SECOND

A
THIRD

S T
FIRST

EAST 120TH STREET

R I
PLEASANT

V E
R
EAST 119TH STREET

DR
I V E
EAST 118TH STREET
AVENUE
AVENUE

AVENUE

)
AVENUE

EAST 117TH STREET

2254
2120

116th Street
6
(LUIS MUOZ MARIN BOULEVARD)
200 300 400
2103

100
2238

EAST 115TH STREET

E)
I V

EAST 114TH STREET

D R
R
V E

EAST 113TH STREET

JEFFERSON
R I
S T

EAST 112TH STREET PARK

( E A
V E

EAST 111TH STREET

2002

D R I
2135

EAST 110TH STREET

H a r l
LT
1981

110th Street
R O O S E V E

6
EAST 109TH STREET
e m

EAST 108TH STREET

SECOND

Benjamin
FIRST
THIRD
LEXINGTON

I N

Franklin RECREATION
EAST 107TH STREET
N K L

Plaza PIER
F R A

EAST 106TH STREET

R i v e r

EAST 105TH STREET

AVENUE

AVENUE
AVENUE
AVENUE

EAST 104TH STREET

2001

Foot Bridge
103rd Street EAST 103RD STREET
6
418  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to main
entries
1 & 2 United Nations Plaza 62, 160
1 Financial Square 59
5C Caf 345
17 State Street 57
21 Club 308, 309
247 Fitness Club 350, 351
26 Broadway 57, 68
40 Wall Street 59
42nd Street 10, 35
55 Central Park West 340
55 Water Street 59
70 Pine Street 59
75 Bedford Street 114, 262
79th Street Greenmarket 328, 329
92nd Street Y 280
concerts 342, 343
literary events 349
May Center for Health, Fitness,
and Sport 354, 355
theater and dance 336, 338, 339
100 Old Slip 59
100 UN Plaza 63
120 Wall Street 59
230 Fifth Avenue 307, 309
245 Fifth Avenue 45
866 Plaza 63
A American Folk Art Museum 40, 173
Abbott, Berenice 255
ABC 341
ABC Carpet & Home 331
Abstract Expressionists 50
Abyssinian Baptist Church 231, 274
Academy Records 324, 325
Accessories, shopping 32021
Accommodation
bed-and-breakfast 280
private homes 280
suites 280
see also Hotels
Accommodations Plus 279
Acela 373
Acker Merrall & Condit 328, 329
Acqua Beauty Bar 355
Actors 5051
Actors Studio 336, 339
Adams, Ansel 149
Adams, Franklin P. 147
Addresses, finding 376
Adelaide 326, 327
Adirondacks 385
Admission prices 361
Adorama 330, 331
Affinia Hotels 279
African American community 49
African art 254
Benin pendant mask 192
Agora Gallery 326, 327
Ailey, Alvin 51
Air Canada 370, 373
Air travel 37071 Antiques 3267
reservations 279
tickets 370
AirBnB 280
AirTrain JFK 371
AirTrain Newark 371 APC 318, 319
AirTran 370, 373
Akeley, Carl 219
Al Hirschfield Theater 337
Alamo (Rosenthal) 120, 272
Alan Moss 326, 327
Alaska on Madison 315
Albee, Edward 51, 262
Algonquin Hotel 147, 308
Alice Austen House 257
Alice Tully Hall 342, 343
Alife Rivington Club 321
Allen, Woody 249
Alma Mater (French) 224, 226
Altman Luggage Company
320, 321
Alwyn Court Apartments 151
Ambassador Theater 337
Ambrose 85
American Airlines 370, 373
American Airlines Theater 336, 337
American Antiques & Quilts 326
American Art 254
American Crafts Festival 53
American Express 366, 367
shop 315, 316
Street-by-Street map 215
American football 54
American Girl Place 314, 316
American Merchant Mariners Ars Nova 348, 349
Memorial 57, 271
American Museum of Natural Art galleries
History 11, 41, 21819
Blue Whale 218
Dinosaurs 219
films 341
Giant Sequoia 219
Great Canoe 218
New Yorks Best: Museums 39 Arturos Pizzeria 304, 306
shop 315, 316
Star of India 218
American Primitive Gallery 326, 327
Ammann, Othmar 237
Amsterdam Avenue, shopping
313
Amtrak 3723, 384, 385 Astaire, Fred 128
Andersen, Hans Christian 208, 211
Angel Orensanz Center 103
Lower East Side walk 260
Angel of the Waters (Mould) 211
Angelika Film Center 341
Ann Taylor 318, 319
Anna Zborowska (Modigliani) 175
Annunciation Triptych (Campin)
238, 241
The Ansonia 221
Anthology Film Archives 341
Antiques Garage Flea Market 326,
327
Antonio Prieto 323
Apartment buildings 42, 45
Apollo Theater 13, 222, 223, 232,
345
Harlem walk 275
history 31, 319
Appellate Division of the Supreme
Court of the State of New York
127, 128
Apple Store 350, 351
Fifth Avenue 331
SoHo 330, 331
Aquarium, New York 251
Aqueduct Race Track 352, 353
Arad, Michael 74
Arbus, Diane 177
Architecture
architects 51
Art Deco 45, 62, 63, 149, 155,
156
modernism 43, 176
New Yorks Best 423
post-modernism 42
SoHo Cast-Iron Historic District
1067
Arlenes Grocery 344, 345
Armani Casa 331
Armour, Herman 243
Around the World 369
Arquitectonica 149
Arrojo Studio 322, 323
Art Deco architecture 45
shopping 326, 327
see also Museums and galleries
Artists
New York School of Abstract
Expressionists 50
Salmagundi Club 116
Asia Society 41, 189
Bookstore and Gift Shop 315, 316
concerts 343
films 341
Asian food 291
Asimov, Isaac 49, 226
Astor Court, Metropolitan Museum
of Art 195
Astor, John Jacob 122, 148
Astor, Mrs. William 189
Astor Place 120, 272
Astor Place riots (1849) 27
Astor Wines & Spirits 328, 329
Astoria Laundry 350, 351
Astro Gallery of Gems 315
AT&T Building 93
At Home in Brooklyn 280

At Home in NY 280
Atget, Eugene 177
Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn walk
269
Auction houses 326, 327
Auden, W.H. 123, 269
Audubon, John James
Birds of America 220
burial place 236
Audubon Terrace 236
August Wilson Theater 337
Austen, Alice, Alice Austen House
257
Automated teller machines (ATMs)
366
Autumn in New York 54
Aveda Institute 3223
Avenues, finding an address 376
Avery Fisher Hall 217, 342, 343
Avis 379
Avventura 330, 331
B Baseball 52, 352
B & H Photo Video 330, 331
B-Bar 307, 309
Baby Sitters Guild 356, 357
BabyGap 317, 319
Bacall, Lauren 220
Baccarat 330, 331
Backstage tours 342
Bacon, Francis 176
The Bag House 320, 321
Bagels On The Square 350, 351
Bailey, Pearl 232
Baker, Josephine 51
Balanchine, George 49, 51
Baldwin, James 32, 50, 275
Balenciaga 197
Ball, Lucille 173
Balla, Giacomo 176
Ballet 338, 339
Balthazar 304, 306, 350, 351
Balto, statue of 211
Ban Ki-moon 165
Banana Republic 318, 319
Bang & Olufsen 330, 331
Bank of New York 25, 57, 59
Bank Street Book Store 324, 325
Banks
bank notes 367
banking 366
see also individual banks
Bar 44 308, 309
Bar None 353
Bara, Theda 130
Barbara Gladstone 326, 327
Barclays Bank Building 59
Barclays Center 352, 353
Barnard, George Grey 238
Barnes, Edward Larrabee 172, 189
Barnes & Noble 324, 325, 349
Barnes & Noble Caf 305, 306
Barney Greengrass 304, 306
Barneys New York 311
cosmetics 322, 323
fashion shopping 317, 319
umbrellas 320, 321
Barnum, Phineas T. 28
Castle Clinton National
Monument 79
City Hall Park 923
wedding of General Tom Thumb
123
Barracuda 347
Barrage 347
Barril, Seora de 236
El Barrio 47
Barrymore, John 114
Barrymore Theater 337
Bars 3079
late-night 350, 351
sports bars 353
Bartholdi, Frdric-Auguste 76, 77
Baruch Performing Arts Center
336, 339
New York Knickerbockers 27, 50
Basie, Count 230
Basketball 54, 352
The Bather (Czanne) 176
The Battery 21
Battery Maritime Building 58, 79,
271
Battery Park 11, 12, 13, 79, 271
Battery Park City 74
late-night New York 350, 351
waterfront walk 270
Battery Place 270
Bausch, Pina 250
Baxter, W.E. 108
Bayard-Condict Building 123
B.B. Kings Blues Club 345
Beacon Theater 344, 345
The Beatles 34, 51, 173
Beau Brummel 317, 319
Beauty stores 322, 323
Beaux Arts architecture 43, 445
Beckett, Samuel 217
Beckman Tower 63
Bed-and-breakfast 280, 281, 282
Bed, Bath & Beyond 331
Beecher, Henry Ward 2689
Beekman Place 1823
Beekman Tower Hotel 279, 351
Before the Mirror (Manet) 191
Belasco, David 145
Belasco Theater 145, 337
Bell, A.G. 28
La Belle Epoque 326, 327
Bellevue Hospital 25
Bellows, George 202
Dempsey and Firpo 203
Belluschi, Pietro 156
Belmont Park Race Track 352, 353
Belvedere Castle 210
Central Park tour 209
GENERAL INDEX  419
Bemelmans Bar 348, 349
Benchley, Robert 147
The Benjamin 279
Bennett, James Gordon, Jr.
136
Benoit 304, 306
Bereket Turkish Kebab House
350, 351
Bergdorf Goodman 311
Bergdorf Goodman Men
317, 319
Berlin, Irving 49, 150, 183
Bernard & S. Dean Levy 326,
327
Bernard B. Jacobs Theater 337
Bernhardt, Sarah 131, 250
Bernstein, Leonard 51
Carnegie Hall 151
The Dakota 220
Lincoln Center 214, 216
Berry, Jean, Duc de 239, 241
Best Buy 330, 331
Bethesda Fountain 208, 211
Central Park tour 208
Bethesda Terrace 208, 211
Betsey Johnson 318, 319
Beuys, Joseph 176
Beyer Blinder Belle 158
Bialystoker Synagogue 100
Bicycle Habitat 354, 355
Bicycle tours 379
Big Apple Circus 54, 357
Billings, C.K.G. 31
Billy Martins 32021
Biltmore Theater 336, 337
Bingham, George Caleb 196
Birdland 344, 345
Birds of America, Audubon,
John James 220
Il Bisonte 320, 321
Bistros 304
Bitter End 345
Black History Month 55
Black Lines (Kandinsky) 191
Blades 314, 316, 353
Blake, Eubie 231
Blake, William, The Song of Los
166
Blakelock, Ralph 29
Bleecker Street Records
324, 325
Blick Art Materials 314, 316
Bliss 355
Blitzstein, Marc 50
The Block Beautiful 127, 130
Bloody Angle 97, 99
Bloomingdales 13, 28, 183, 311
cosmetics 322, 323
shoes 320
Bloomingdales SoHo 323
Blue Note 344, 345, 350
Blue Ribbon 350
Blue Tree 317, 319
420  GENERAL INDEX
Blue Whale, American Museum
of Natural History 218
Boats
ferries 378
ocean travel 372
tours 361
water taxi 378
Boat tours 379
The Boat-Building Shop 84
bOb Bar 346, 347
Boccioni, Umberto 176
Bogardus building 61
Bogart, Humphrey 220
La Boite A Coupe 323
La Boite en Bois 304, 306
BoltBus 372, 373, 385
Bolting Laws (1680s) 21
Bonnard, Pierre 199
Bonpoint 317, 319
Book Book 324, 325
BookCourt 324, 325
Bookmarks 308, 309
Books of Wonder 324, 325, 357
Bookstores 3245
Booth, Edwin 127, 130, 131, 150
Booth, John Wilkes 130
Booth Theater 337
Boppard Stained-Glass Lancets,
Cloisters Museum 238
Borough Hall 269
Bosworth, Welles 93
Bottega Veneta 320, 321
Botticelli, Sandro 198
Botticelli (shop) 320, 321
Boucher, Franois, Fowling and
Horticulture 205
Bounce 353
Bourke-White, Margaret 255
Boutique hotels 2824
Bow Bridge 210
Central Park tour 209
Bowery Ballroom 100, 344, 345
Bowery Poetry Club 349
Bowery Restaurant Supply Co.
330, 331
Bowie, David 197
Bowling Green 11, 22, 75
Bowlmor Lanes 350, 351
Bowne & Co 271
Boxing 352
Bradford, William 70
Brandys Piano Bar 348, 349
Braque, Georges 176, 199
Brasserie 304, 306
Brazilian Festival 54
Breakfast 278
Bremen House 267
Breuer, Marcel 188, 202
Brevoort, Henry 123
Brew pubs 308
Bridge tolls 373
Briefcases, shopping 320, 321
Brill Building 340
British Airways 370, 373
Broadhurst Theater 337
Broadway 12, 13, 336
history 20
theaters 336, 337
Broadway.com 333
Broadway Comedy Club 348, 349
Broadway Panhandlers 330, 331
Broadway Ticket Center 332, 333
Broken Kilometer 106
Bronfman, Samuel 179
The Bronx 242
Bronx Zoo 2467
Bronzino 198
Brooklyn 24955
bars 309
light meals and snacks 306
map 18
walking tour 2689
Brooklyn Academy of Music
13, 250, 269
concerts 342, 343
dance 338, 339
theater 336
Brooklyn Botanic Garden 13, 251
Brooklyn Bridge 11, 13, 17, 61, 82,
83, 8891
film locations 340
fireworks 90
history 29
Street-by-Street map 85
Brooklyn Bridge: Variation on an
Old Theme (Stella) 39
Brooklyn Childrens Museum 249
Brooklyn Cruise Terminal 372, 373
Brooklyn Diner 305, 306
Brooklyn Dodgers 269
Brooklyn Heights 268, 340
Brooklyn Heights Promenade 13
Brooklyn Historical Society 269
Brooklyn Museum 13, 2525
arts of Africa, the Pacific, and the
Americas 254
Asian art 254
decorative arts 2545
Egyptian, classical, and ancient
Middle Eastern art 255
floor plan 2523
painting and sculpture 255
prints, drawings, and photographs
255
Visitors Checklist 253
Brooklyn Museum of Art 41
Brooklyn walk 269
Brooks, Mel 249
Brooks Atkinson Theater 337
Brooks Brothers 317, 319, 320
Brother Jimmys BBQ 308, 309
Brotherhood Synagogue 127
Brown, Charles Brockden 50
Brown, James 232, 275
Brownstones 42, 44
Brueghel, Pieter 198
Bryant Park 10, 147
concerts 343
Bryant Park Caf 307, 309
Bryant Park Hotel 147
Buccellati 320, 321
Budget (car rental) 379
Budget accommodations 281,
2845
Budget dining 2889
Budget travel 362
Bulgari 320, 321
Bull and Bear 308, 309
Bumble & Bumble 323
Burberry Limited 317, 319
Burger Joint 305, 306
Burne-Jones, Edward 161
Burnett, Frances Hodgson 211
Burnham, Daniel 45, 129
Burp Castle 308, 309
Burr, Aaron 25, 230, 237
Burroughs, William 50
Bus travel 3823
long-distance buses 372, 385
tours 383
Bush, George W. 35
Bush-Brown, Henry K. 87
Business hotels 286
Bust of Sylvette (Picasso) 117
Butler Library 224
Byrne, David 250
Byzantine art, marble panel 193
C
Cabaret 348, 349
Cadman Plaza West 268
Caf Carlyle 344, 345
Caf Centro 304, 306
Caf Edison 305, 306
Cafs 304
Caff Reggio 350, 351
Cage, John 102
Cagney, James 130, 226
Calder, Alexander 172
Circus 203
Callas, Maria 51, 217
Calloway, Cab 32, 33, 230
Calvin Klein 318, 319
Campbell, Mrs. Patrick 130
The Campbell Apartment 308, 309
Camper 321
Campin, Robert, Annunciation
Triptych 238, 241
Canal Street Flea Market, Street-
by-Street map 96
Cannons Walk 84
Capa, Cornell 149
Capa, Robert 149
Cape Liberty Cruise Port 372, 373
Capote, Truman 172, 268
Capra, Frank 49
Car insurance 377
Car travel 373
Card Players (Czanne) 194
Carl Schurz Park 200, 267
Carlyle Hotel 306, 350
piano bar 348, 349, 350
tea room 305, 306
Carnegie, Andrew 28, 51, 150
Carnegie Hall 150

Cooper-Hewitt Museum 39,
188, 267
Carnegie Delicatessen 304, 306, 350
Carnegie Hall 15051
architecture 44
concerts 342, 343
history 29
New Yorks Best: Entertainment 335
shop 314, 316
Carnegie Hill 267
Carolines 348, 349
Carr, Carlo 176
Carrre & Hastings
Eternal Light flagpole 128
Forbes Magazine Building 116
The Life Building 135
Neue Galerie New York 188
New York Public Library 45, 148
Carriage tours 379
Carroll, Lewis 167
Cars 377
Cartier 320, 321
Cartier, Pierre 172
Cartier-Bresson, Henri 149, 177
Caruso, Enrico 51, 221
Casa Lever 179
Casals, Pablo 250
Cassatt, Mary 255
Cast-iron architecture 42, 44
Cast-iron facades, TriBeCa 94
Cast-Iron Historic District,
Greenwich Village and SoHo walk
263
Castle Clinton National Monument
57, 79
waterfront walk 270, 271
The Cathedral Shop 314, 316
Cathedrals
Cathedral of St. John the Divine
16, 29, 225, 2289, 342, 343
St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox
Cathedral 201
St. Patricks Cathedral 12, 13, 28,
168, 169, 170, 18081
see also Churches
Cavaglieri, Giorgio 115
Caviarteria 328, 329
CBGB & OMFUG 273
CBS 341
Center 44 326, 327
Central Park 11, 12, 13, 20611
Central Park tour 2089
film locations 340
map 207
Central Park Bike Rental 354, 355
Central Park Summerstage 53, 344,
345
Central Park West 215, 216
Central Park Zoo 211
Central Park tour 208
Central Quadrangle, Columbia
University 224
Central Synagogue 182
Century 21 Department Store 311,
317, 319
Century Apartments 215, 216
Czanne, Paul 198, 255
The Bather 176
Card Players 194
Chagall, Marc 165, 216
Paris Through the Window 190
Chambellan, Ren 156
Chamber of Commerce 69
Chanel 318, 319
Chanin, Irwin S. 154, 156, 216
Chanin Building 154, 156
Chaplin, Charlie 128, 177
Charging Bull (Di Modica) 75
Charles Colin Publications 324, 325
Chart House 350, 351
Chase 69, 366, 367
Chase Manhattan Bank Tower 59
Chteau Stables 351
Chatham Square 96
Chelsea and the Garment District
13, 13241
area map 133
bars 309
brownstones 44
hotels see Midtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Midtown
shopping 313
Chelsea Art Galleries 140
Chelsea Brewing Company 308, 309
Chelsea Golf Club 354
Chelsea Historic District 141
Chelsea Market 141
Chelsea Piers Complex 140, 357
childrens entertainment 357
fitness center 354, 355
ice skating 352, 353
renovation 35
Cherry Blossom Festival 52
Cherry Lane Theatre 112, 336, 339
Chess Forum 314, 316
Chez Jacqueline 304, 306
Chez Josephine 304, 306
Children
clothes 317, 319
entertainment 3567
in hotels 281
in restaurants 289, 357
Children Meeting (Murray) 202
Childrens General Store 314, 316
Childrens Museum of the Arts 109
Childrens Museum of Manhattan
11, 221
Chinatown 46, 95, 989
film locations 340
Lower East Side walk 261
Street-by-Street map 967
Chinatown Ice Cream Factory 357
Chinese community 48
Chinese New Year 55
Chinese Porcelain Company 315
Chock Full o Nuts 305, 306
Christian Louboutin 321
Christies 326, 327
Christinas World (Wyeth) 174
GENERAL INDEX  421
Christmas Spectacular 54
Christopher Street 112
Christy, Howard Chandler 217
Chrysler, Walter P. 157
Chrysler Building 10, 45, 62, 154,
157
history 32
Street-by-Street map 155
Church Lounge 308, 309
Churches
Abyssinian Baptist Church 231,
274
Church of the Ascension 116
Church of the Heavenly Rest 186
Church of the Holy Trinity 201,
267
Church of the Incarnation 161
Church of St. Ann and the Holy
Trinity 269
Corpus Christi Church 342, 343
glise de Notre Dame 225
First Presbyterian Church 116
Grace Church 123
Judson Memorial Church 117, 263
The Little Church Around the
Corner 131
Marble Collegiate Church 135, 136
Mother Zion church 274
Old St. Patricks Cathedral 101
Plymouth Church 268
religious music 3423
Riverside Church 2267
St. Bartholomews Church 171,
178
St. John the Baptist Church 134,
137
St. Marks-in-the-Bowery Church
121, 123, 273
St. Pauls Chapel (Broadway) 11,
24, 93, 343
St. Pauls Chapel (Columbia
University) 225, 226
St. Peters Church 342, 343
St. Thomas Church 170, 173
Trinity Church 11, 21, 67, 68, 70,
271, 343
see also Cathedrals
Churchill, Winston 130, 179, 250
Cielo 307, 309, 346, 347
Cinema see Film
Cinema Village 341
Cipriani 156
Circa Antiques 326, 327
Circle Line 379
childrens New York 356, 357
late-night New York 350, 351
Circle Repertory Theater 262
Circus (Calder) 203
Citarella 328, 329
Citi Field 352, 353
Citibank Building 59
Citigroup Center 45, 63, 179
City Bakery 328, 329
City Center of Music and Dance
150, 338, 339
422  GENERAL INDEX

City College of the City University
of New York 230
City Hall 11, 92
architecture 43, 44
City Hall Park 923
City Island 243
City Island Museum 243
Civil War 27
Clark, Edward S. 220
CLAY Health Club + Spa 355
Clermont 27
Cleveland, Grover 76
Clifford, George 193
Clinton, Charles W. 189
Clinton Street
bakery 30
Brooklyn walk 269
The Cloisters Museum 40, 23841
Boppard Stained-Glass Lancets
238
concerts 343
Cuxa Cloister 239
floor plan 2389
Gothic art 24041
medieval gardens 241
Romanesque art 240
Saint-Guilhem Cloister 239
tapestries 241
Treasury 241
Visitors Checklist 239
Clothes
in restaurants 289
shopping 31719
size chart 318
ClubFone 332, 333
Clubs 3467
C.O. Bigelow 314, 316
The Coach Store 320, 321
Cocks, Samuel 114
Coffee
and cakes 305
stores 328, 329
The Coffee Shop 305, 306, 350, 351
Cohan, George M. 145
Cohen, Jerry 103
Coins 367
Colbert, Claudette 49
College Board Building 214
Colonial New York 223
Colonnade Row 120, 122
Colt, Samuel 117, 197
Coltrane, John 275
Columbia University 34, 2245, 226
Central Quadrangle 224
history 23
Street-by-Street map 2245
Columbus, Christopher 217
Columbus Avenue, shopping 313
Columbus Circle 13, 217
Columbus Day Parade 54
Columbus Park 96, 99
Comedy 348, 349
Comedy Cellar 348, 349
Comic Strip Live 348, 349
Comme des Garons 318, 319
Common Ground 315
Commonwealth Fund 266
Complete Traveler Antiquarian
Bookstore 324, 325
Computer stores 330, 331
Con Edison electrical substation 85
Con Edison Headquarters 125, 131
Con Edison Mural (Haas) 61
Condict, Silas Alden 123
Coney Island 251
Coney Island Museum 251
Confucius Plaza 97
Conkling, Roscoe 128
Conservatory Garden 211
Conservatory Water 211
Central Park tour 209
Constitution 26
Consulates 363
Conversion chart 363
Coogan, Jackie 177
Cooke, George F. 93
Cooper, James Fenimore 50
Cooper, Peter 121, 122, 272
Cooper-Hewitt National Design
Museum 188
New Yorks Best: Museums 39, 40
shop 315, 316
Street-by-Street map 186
Upper East Side walk 267
Cooper Union 119, 121, 122, 272
Copland, Aaron 236
Corcoran, Paddy 160
Cornbury, Lord 22
Cornelia Street Caf 350, 351
Corner Bistro 305, 306
Corona Park 248
Corpus Christi Church 342
Cort Theater 337
Cotton Club 32, 33, 345
Couchsurfing 280
CountryInn The City 281
Coutans, Jules-Alexis 158
Coward, Nol 215, 217
Cram, Ralph Adams 228, 229
Credit cards 366
in restaurants 288
in shops 310
stolen or lost 364
Crime 364
Crime Victims Hot Line 365
Criminal Courts Building 86
Cross & Cross 178
Croton Distributing Reservoir 267
Croxleys Ales 353
Crystal Palace exhibition hall 27
Cuban Day Parade 52
The Cubby Hole 347
Cullen, Countee 274
Cummings, E. E. 113, 115, 262
Cunningham, Merce 34
Cuomo, Mario 74
Currency 3667
Cushman, Don Alonzo 141
Customs and immigration 360, 370
Cuxa Cloister, Cloister Museum 239
CVS Pharmacy 350, 351
Cycle Caf 368, 369
Cycling 354, 379
Cynthia Rowley 318, 319
Cypresses (van Gogh) 194
D
D. Porthault 331
Daily, Clifford 112
Daily News Building 155, 157
The Dairy 210
Central Park tour 208
concerts 343
The Dakota 28, 220
architecture 45
film locations 340
Dalai Lama 256
Dal, Salvador, The Persistence of
Memory 176
Damrosch Park 217
concerts 343
Dance 3389
dancers 51
dancing 346, 347
Dance Theater of Harlem 338, 339
Dance Theater Workshop 338, 339,
342
Dancing in the Streets 338, 339
Dangerfields Comedy Club 348, 349
Dashing Diva 322, 323
David, Jacques-Louis, The Death of
Socrates 195
David Zwirner Gallery 326, 327
Davis, Bette 140
Davis, Miles 275
Day trips by train 385
d.b.a. 308, 309
De Kooning, Willem 50, 176, 199
De Lancey, James 100
De Maria, Walter 106, 109
De Peyster, Abraham 58
The Dead Poet 350, 351
Dean, Bashford 242
Dean & DeLuca 107, 328, 329
Dean, James 215
The Death of Socrates (David) 195
Degas, Edgar 198, 255
Delacorte, George T. 210, 211
Delacorte Theater 333, 336, 339
Delancey Street 100
Delano family 117
Deli Dining 290
Delicatessens 290, 291, 304
Delmonico family 101
Delmonicos 58
Delta 370, 373
Les Demoiselles dAvignon (Picasso)
10, 175, 176
Dempsey and Firpo (Bellows) 203
Demuth, Charles 199
Dental care 365
Department stores and malls 311
Derain, Andr 176
Desert Island 324, 325
Design Within Reach 331

Designer Resale 317, 319
Dessert Delivery 305, 306
Di Modica, Arturo, Charging Bull
75
Dialing codes 369
Diamond District 146, 261
Dickens, Charles 122
DiMaggio, Joe 243
Diner 305, 306
Diners 305
Diners Club 367
Dinkins, David 35
The Dinner Party 253
Dinosaur Hill 31415, 316
Dinosaurs, American Museum of
Natural History 219
Diptych (Van Eyck) 195
Directory inquiries 369
Disabled travelers 362
entertainment 333
in hotels 280, 281
in restaurants 289
Discounts
designer clothes 317, 319
entertainment 3323
in hotels 280
shopping 310
DOC NYC 340, 341
DOCS 365
Doctors 365
Dodge, William de Leftwich 87
Dolce & Gabbana 318, 319
Dont Tell Mama 346, 347, 348, 349
The Dorilton 221
Doris Leslie Blau 326, 327
Dos Passos, John 117, 263
Douglas, Aaron 274
Douglas Fairbanks Theater 336, 339
Downtown
hotels 2823, 2845, 286
restaurants 2927
Downtown Heliport 58
Doyle New York 326, 327
Drama Book Shop 324, 325, 349
Draper, John W. 117
Dreiser, Theodore 114, 128, 263
Dreyfuss, Richard 216
Driving in New York 377
DSW 321
Du Bois, W.E.B. 231
Duane Reade Drugstores 350, 351
Duboy, Paul E.M. 221
Dubuffet, Jean 69, 176, 177
Duchamp, Marcel 117, 201
Duckworth, Isaac F. 106
Duffy Square 145
Duke, James B. 266
Duke-Semans House 266
Duke Theater 338, 339
Duncan, Isadora 215, 217
Dune 331
Duplex 346, 347, 348, 349
Drer, Albrecht 197, 255
Dutch West India Company 20
Dylan, Bob 51
E Embassies 363
E. & J. Frankel 326, 327
E. Vogel Custom Boots & Shoes
321
E Walk 144
Eagle Warehouse 268
Eakins, Thomas 188
The Ear Inn 308, 309
Early Sunday Morning (Hopper)
202
Earth Day Festival Activities 52
Earwax 324, 325
East 57th and 59th Streets,
shopping 313
East Coast War Memorial 57
East Houston Street 101
East River, Upper East Side walk
267
East Side Kids 321
East Side Midtown, light meals
and snacks 306
East Village 11823
area map 119
bars 309
hotels see Downtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Downtown
shopping 312
Street-by-Street map 12021
walking tour 2723
Easter 52
Easter Flower Show 52
Easter Parade 52
Eastern States Buddhist Temple
261
Eastgate Tower 279
E.A.T. 305, 306
Eataly 328, 329
Economy Candy 1023, 328, 329
glise de Notre Dame 225
Eiffel, Gustave 76
Eileen Lane Antiques 326, 327
Einstein, Albert 49
Eisenhower, Dwight D. 216
EJs Luncheonette 305, 306
Eldridge Street Synagogue 99
Lower East Side walk 260
Street-by-Street map 97
Electrical appliances 363
Electronic ticker tape, Times Square
145
Electronics shops 330, 331
Elegant Tightwad 311
Elephant and Castle 304, 306
Elevated railroad (El) 289
Eliot, T.S. 148
Ellington, Duke 32
Apollo Theater 232
Cotton Club 344
Hamilton Heights 230
history 32
Lincoln Center 344
Woodlawn Cemetery 243
Ellis Island 11, 12, 13, 41, 8081
Ellison, Ralph 231
GENERAL INDEX  423
Emergencies 365
Empire State Building 10, 12, 13, 17,
132, 1389
architecture 45
film locations 340
history 32
Manhattan skyline 62
Street-by-Street map 135
Empire State Building Run-Up 55
Employees Only 307, 309
Encore 317, 319
Engine Company No. 31 95, 102
Enid A. Haupt Conservatory 245
Entertainment 33255
booking tickets 332
children 3567
clubs, dance halls, and gay and
lesbian venues 3467
comedy, cabaret, and literary
events 3489
disabled access 333
discount tickets 3323
fitness and wellbeing 3545
free tickets 333
late-night New York 35051
listings 369
movies 34041
music 3425
New Yorks Best 3345
scalpers and touts 333
sports 3523
theater and dance 3369
Entrepreneurs 51
Epstein, Jacob 227
Equitable Building 68
Erbe 322, 323
Erie Canal 27
Ernst, Max 176
Ess-a-Bagel 328, 329, 350, 351
Essex Street Market 103
Ethical Culture Society Hall 342, 343
Etiquette 361
Eugene ONeill Theater 337
Eve 322, 323
Everett Childrens Adventure Garden
244
Exhale Mind Body Spa 354, 355
Express Mail 368
Express Mail International 368
F
FACE Stockholm 322, 323
Fairway Market 328, 329, 350, 351
Fanellis Caf 308, 309
F.A.O. Schwarz 314, 316, 357
Farragut, Admiral David 126, 128
Farrington, E.F. 89
Farther Afield
hotels 282, 285, 286
restaurants 303
Fashion Avenue 134
Fashion shopping 31719
Fashionable bars 307
Federal architecture 43, 44
424  GENERAL INDEX
Federal Hall 11, 13, 41, 70
concerts 343
Street-by-Street map 69
Federal Reserve Bank 70
Street-by-Street map 69
Feininger, Lyonel 188
Feinsteins at the Regency Hotel
346, 347, 348, 349
Fernbach, Henry 109, 182
Ferragamo 320, 321
Ferrara Bakery and Caf 305, 306
Ferries 378
Festa di San Gennaro 54, 261
Festivals 525
Fields, W.C. 248
Fifth Avenue 11, 12, 13, 31, 169, 172
rural 29
shopping 313
Street-by-Street map 170
Fillmore East Auditorium 273
Film 34041
locations 340
midnight movies 350
Museum of the Moving Image and
Kaufman Astoria Studio 2489
New York Film Festival 340
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
334
ratings 340
Film Forum 334, 341
Film Society of Lincoln Center 340,
341
First Presbyterian Church 116
Fishs Eddy 330, 331
Fisk, James 51
Fitness and wellbeing 3545
Fitzgerald, Ella 275
Fitzgerald, F. Scott 248
Five Boro Bike Tour 52
Five Guys 305, 306
Five in One (Rosenthal) 61
Flagg, Ernest 108, 123
Flatiron Building 31, 129
architecture 45
Street-by-Street map 126
Flatiron District see Gramercy and
the Flatiron District
Flavin, Dan 176
Flea markets 326, 327
Fleet Bank Building 61
Florence Gould Hall 342, 343
Florian Papp 326, 327
Flower District 134
Fluid Fitness 354, 355
Flushing Meadow-Corona Park
248
Flying Cranes Antiques 326, 327
Folk and country music 345
Folk art, shopping 326, 327
Fonda, Henry 87
Food and drink
in bars 307
The Flavors of New York 29091
light meals and snacks 3046
shopping 3289
Food and drink (cont.)
take-out food and groceries 350,
351
see also Restaurants
Food Emporium 350
Football 352
Forbes Magazine Building 116
Forbidden Planet 314, 316, 324, 325
Ford Foundation Building 155
Forrest, Edwin 120
Fosse, Bob 51
Foster, Norman 217
Foster, Stephen 26
Foto Care 330, 331
Foucault, Lon, Foucaults Pendulum
164
Fountain Pen Hospital 314, 316
Fowling and Horticulture (Boucher)
205
Foxwoods Theater 337
Fragonard, Jean-Honor 255
The Pursuit 205
Frank Music Company 324, 325
Franklin, Aretha 232
Franklin, Benjamin, statue of 92, 93
Fraunces Tavern 3089
Fraunces Tavern Block Historic
District 11
Fraunces Tavern Museum 41, 78
Fred F. French Building 161
Frdric Fekkai Beaut de Provence
3223
French, Daniel Chester
Alma Mater 224, 226
Appellate Division of the Supreme
Court of the State of New York 128
Church of the Incarnation 161
Gramercy Park 130
US Custom House 75
French Connection 318, 319
French Institute 341
Fresh 322, 323
Frette 331
Frick, Henry Clay 204
Frick Collection 39, 266
Frick Collection 13, 2045
concerts 342, 343
New Yorks Best: Museums 39, 40
Upper East Side walk 266
Frick Mansion 45
Friedlander, Lee 177
Fuller Building 183
Fulton, Robert 26, 27
burial place 70
Isaacs-Hendricks House 114
Fulton Ferry Landing 268
Fur District 134
Furniture, antiques 326, 327
FusionArts Museum 103
G Golf 354
G Lounge 347
Gagosian Gallery 326, 327
Gainsborough, Thomas, Mall in
St. Jamess Park 205
Galleria Nail Salon 322, 323
Galleries see Museums and galleries
Gallo, Joey 97
Games shops 31415, 316
The Gap 317, 318, 319
GapKids 317, 319
Garbo, Greta 75
Gardens see Parks and gardens
Gardiner, Julia 116
Garland, Judy 220
Garment District see Chelsea and
the Garment District
Garnet Wines & Liquors 328, 329
Garren Salon 322, 323
Garvey, Marcus 233, 275
Gaud, Antonio 227
Gay and Lesbian Switchboard 347
Gay and lesbian travelers 362
Gay and lesbian venues 3467
bars 308
Gay Street 113
Geer, Seth 122
General Electric Building 63, 171,
178
General Post Office 137, 368, 369
General Theological Seminary 140
George III, King 245, 75
George Washington Bridge 237
Gerald Schoenfeld Theater 337
German community 48
Gershwin Theater 337
Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney (Henri)
203
Ghiberti, Lorenzo 70
Gianni Versace 318, 319
Giant Sequoia, American Museum
of Natural History 219
Gibson, Charles Dana 200
Gilbert, Cass 445, 51
George Washington Bridge 237
New York Life Insurance Company
127, 128
United States Courthouse 87
US Custom House 75
Woolworth Building 93
Gilbert, P.H. 188
Gillespie, Dizzy 232
Gilt Bar 308, 309
Ginsberg, Allen 50, 273
Giorgio Armani 318, 319
Gish sisters 220
Giuliani, Rudolph 35
Givenchy 318, 319
Glass, Philip 250
Gleizes, Albert 201
Goat (Picasso) 38
Golden Fung Wong Bakery 328,
329
The Golden Rule (Rockwell) 165
Goldwyn, Samuel 49
Goodhue, Bertram 173, 178
Gorky, Arshile 176, 255
Gotham Comedy Club 348, 349
Gottlieb, Adolph 50

Gould, Jay 51, 385
Gould family 183
Gounod, Charles 250
Gourmet Garage 328, 329
Goya y Lucientes, Francisco Jos de
197, 198, 236
Grace Church 123
Gracie, Archibald 40, 200
Gracie Mansion 40, 2001, 267
Gracious Home 314, 316
Gramercy and the Flatiron District
12431
area map 125
bars 309
hotels see Downtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Downtown
Gramercy Park 130
Street-by-Street map 1267
Gramercy Park Hotel 131
Grand Army Plaza 13, 250
Grand Bar 308, 309
Grand Central Oyster Bar 10
Grand Central Terminal 10, 12, 16,
1589
architecture 45
arriving in New York 375
film locations 340
history 31
Manhattan skyline 62
music 342
restoration 34
Street-by-Street map 154
trains 384
Grand Street 331
Grant, Cary 114
Grant, Ulysses S. 77, 227
Grants Tomb 227
Grasshopper Pilates 354, 355
Grays Papaya 351
Great Blizzard (1888) 29, 128
Great Canoe, American Museum of
Natural History 218
Great Depression 33
Great Dock 21
El Greco 198, 236
Greek art, Seated Man with Harp
192
Greek Independence Day Parade
52
Greeley, Horace 135
Greeley Square 135
Green Coca-Cola Bottles (Warhol)
202
Green travel 376
Greenaway, Kate 40
Greene Street 108
Greenwich Village and SoHo walk
263
Street-by-Street map 106
Greenflea Market 326, 327
Greenmarkets 29091, 328
Greenwich House Music School
343
Greenwich Savings Bank 135
GENERAL INDEX
Greenwich Village 12, 13, 11017
area map 111
bars 309
hotels see Downtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Downtown
shopping 312
Street-by-Street map 11213
walking tour 2623
Greyhound Lines 372, 373
Gris, Juan 176
Gristedes Food Emporium 350, 351
Gropius, Walter 156
Group Health Insurance Building 45,
149
Grove Court 112, 114
Gucci 318, 319, 320
Guggenheim Bandshell 214, 217
Guggenheim Museum see Solomon
R. Guggenheim Museum
Guided tours 379
Guy, Francis, Winter Scene in Brooklyn
253
Gym (Gay and Lesbian venue) 347
Gyms 354
H Heizer, Michael 172
H&M 350, 351
Haas, Richard 50
Alwyn Court Apartments 151
Con Edison mural 61, 85
Greene Street mural 107, 108
New York Public Library 148
Hair salons 3223
Hair & Spa Party 24 Hours 350, 351
Halcyon The Shop 324, 325
Hale, Nathan 24, 92
Les Halles 304, 306, 350
Halloween Parade 54
Hamburger places 305
Hamilton, Alexander 25, 230
Bank of New York 59
burial place 70
Hamilton Grange National
Memorial 230
Hamilton Heights Historic District
230
Hammacher Schlemmer 315, 316,
330, 331
Hammarskjld, Dag 165
Hammerstein, Oscar 51, 144, 150
Hammett, Dashiell 50
The Hamptons 385
Handbags, shopping 320, 321
Handy, W.C. 231
Hanover Square 58
Hanukkah Menorah 55
The Harbor of Dieppe (Turner) 204
Harbour Lights 350, 351
Hard Rock Caf 357
Harde and Short 151
Hardenbergh, Henry J. 45
Con Edison Headquarters 131
The Dakota 220
Plaza Hotel 183
 425
Haring, Keith 50
Harkness, Edward S. 266
Harlem 13, 47
film locations 340
walking tour 2745
see also Morningside Heights and
Harlem
Harlem Heights, Battle of (1776) 24
Harlem Week 53
Harlem YMCA 231
Harper, James 130
Harrison, Rex 183
Harrison, Wallace 162
Harrison Street 109
Harry Winston 320, 321
Harrys Caf 11
Hartford, Connecticut 384
Hartley, Marsden, Painting Number 5
203
The Hat Shop 320, 321
Hat shops 320, 321
Haughwout Building 107, 108
Hawley, Irad 116
Health clubs 354
Heartland Brewery 308, 309
Heins & LaFarge 228, 229
Helen Hayes Theater 337
Helicopter Flight Services 371, 373
Helicopter tours 379
Liberty 379
Helleu, Alice 253
Helleu, Paul 159, 253
Hells Kitchen 46
Hells Kitchen Flea Market 326, 327
Helmsley, Harry 51, 160
Helmsley, Leona 51, 160
Helmsley Building 45, 155, 160
Henderson, John C. 200
Henderson Place 200, 267
Hendrick (Iroquois chief ) 22
Hendricks, Harmon 114
Hendrix, Jimmy 273
Henri Bendel 311, 321
Henri, Robert, Gertrude Vanderbilt
Whitney 203
Henrietta Hudson 346, 347
Henry, O. 114, 127
Hepburn, Audrey 114
Hepburn, Katharine 150, 183
Hepworth, Barbara 62
Herald Square 136
shopping 313
Street-by-Street map 1345
HERE Art Center 336, 339
Heritage Trails 379
Herter brothers 128
Herts, Henry 150
Herts and Tallant 146, 250
Hertz 379
Hewitt sisters 188
Hickey Freeman 317, 319
Hicks, Edward, The Peaceable
Kingdom 40
Hicks family 268
426  GENERAL INDEX

The High Line 12, 13, 140
The Highpoint 63
Hill, Joe 49
Himalayan Crafts and Tours 315
Hirschl & Adler Galleries 266, 326, 327
Hispanic American community 48
Historic bars 3078
Historic Richmond Town 41, 256
History 1935
Hit Show Club 333
Hoffman, Dustin 112, 216
Hoffman, Malvina 161, 186
Hofmann, Hans 50
Holbein, Hans, Sir Thomas More 204
Holiday, Billie 232, 274, 275
Holidays, public 55
Holland, George 131
Holland Tunnel 32
Home Savings of America (Lower
East Side) 97, 98
Home Savings of America (Lower
Midtown) 156
Street-by-Street map 154
Homer, Winslow 188, 255, 262
Hood, Raymond 45
Bryant Park Hotel 147
Daily News Building 157
Group Health Insurance Building
149
Rockefeller Center 146
Hope, Bob 49
Hopper, Edward
American Academy of Arts and
Letters 236
Early Sunday Morning 202
Washington Mews 263
Washington Square 117
Horse races 352
Hospitals 365
Hosteling International, NY 280
Hotel des Artistes 215, 217
Hotel Pennsylvania 134
Hotel Pierre 305, 306
Hotels 27891
bars 308
bed-and-breakfast 280, 281, 282
beyond Manhattan 280
boutique 2824
budget 2845
business 286
children in 280
disabled travelers 280, 281
Downtown 2823, 2845, 286
facilities 279
Farther Afield 282, 285, 286
finding bargains 278
hidden extras 2789
how to reserve 280
luxury 2867
midtown 2834, 285, 286, 287
special rates 279
Upper East Side 284, 287
Upper West Side 282, 284, 285, 287
youth and budget
accommodations 280
Hotels.com 279
Houdini, Harry 128
House of Oldies 324, 325
Houseman, John 5051
Houseware shops 33031
Housing Works Bookstore Caf
324, 325
Howe, General William 24
Howells, John 147
Howells & Stokes 225
Hudson, Henry 20
Hudson Bar 308, 309
Hudson River 270
Hugh ONeill Dry Goods Store 141
Hughes, Archbishop John 180
Hughes, Langston 231
Hungarian Pastry Shop 305, 306
Hunt, Richard Morris 44, 70
Hunter College Dance Company
338, 339
Huntington, Anna Hyatt 236
Statue of Diana 188
Huntington, Archer Milton 188,
236
Huntington, Charles Pratt 236
Hurricane Sandy 35, 84, 86
Hurston, Zora Neale 231, 2745
Hyde Park 385
I Jazz 3445
IBM Building 171, 172
Ice hockey 352
Ice skating 352
Idlewild 324, 325
Idlewild International Airport 33
Immigration 360
Imperial Theater 337
Imports from Marrakesh 315
India House 11, 42, 58
Indian Restaurant Row 273
Industrialists 51
Ingres, J.A.D. 197
Portrait of the Princesse de Broglie
193
Innovative Audio Video Showrooms
330, 331
Insurance 365
International Center of Photography
40, 149
International Ladies Garment
Workers Union 30
Internet 368
Internet cafs 368, 369
Internet Events Guide 343
Internet Garage 368, 369
Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum 151
New Yorks Best: Museums 38, 41
Iridium 344, 345
Irish community 48
Irving, Washington 50
Colonnade Row 122
The Salmagundi Papers 116
Tarrytown 385
Irving Plaza 344, 345
Irving Trust Company 68
Isaacs, John 114
Isaacs-Hendricks House 114
Isadora Duncan Dance Foundation
338, 339
Italian community 48
Ives, H. Douglas 161
J
J&R Music World 324, 325, 330, 331
J. Levine Judaica 324, 325
J. Press 317, 319
Jack Spade 320, 321
Jackson, Michael 249
Jackson Hole 305, 306
Jacob K. Javits Convention Center
140
Jacobs, Marc 115, 317
Jacques Marchais Museum of
Tibetan Art 41, 256
Jade Bar 308, 309
Jamaica Bay 233
Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge Center
257
James, Henry 50, 117
Washington Square 263
James Burden House 267
Jane Watson Irwin Perennial Garden
245
Japan Society 41, 63, 16061
Jazz at Lincoln Center 3445
Jazz Standard 344, 345
Jeanne Hbuterne (Modigliani) 192
Jefferson, Joseph 131
Jefferson, Thomas 115, 148
Jefferson Market Courthouse 113,
115, 262
Jerome, Jennie 130
Jerry Ohlingers Movie Material
Store 314, 316
JetBlue 370, 373
Jewelry shops 320, 321
Jewish community 48
see also Synagogues
Jewish Museum 13, 41, 188
architecture 43
shop 315, 316
Street-by-Street map 186
Upper East Side walk 267
JFK Airport 37071, 375
JHU Comic Books 324, 325
Jimmy Choo 321
JN Bartfield Galleries 324, 325
Joan B. Merviss 330, 331
Joan Weill Center for Dance 338,
339
Joe 305, 306
Joes Pizza 304, 306
Joes Pub 346, 347
late-night New York 350
rock music 344, 345
Jogging 354
John Golden Theater 337
John Masters Organics 323
John Paul II, Pope 243

John Varvatos 317, 319
Johns, Jasper 176, 177
Three Flags 203
Johns Pizzeria 304, 306
Johnson, Philip 179, 216
Jolson, Al 49
Jonathan Adler 33031
Jones Beach State Park 257
Jones Beach Theater 257
Joplin, Janis 273
Joyce Theater 338, 339
Juan de Flandes, The Marriage Feast
at Cana 193
Judd, Donald 176
Judith & James Milne 326, 327
Judson, Adoniram 117
Judson Memorial Church 117, 263
Juilliard Dance Theater 338, 339
Juilliard Opera Center 342, 343
Juilliard School of Music 342, 343
Juilliard Store 324, 325
Julien Farel Restore Spa at the
Regency Hotel 354, 355
Jumbo Bagels and Bialys 350, 351
Jumel, Stephen and Eliza 237
Jungle Alley 275
Juniors 305, 306
Juvenex Spa 350, 351
K Lamb & Rich 200
Kahn, Otto 267
Kalustyans 328, 329
Kandinsky, Vasily 188, 199
Black Lines 191
Karloff, Boris 220
Kate Spade 320, 321
Katzs Deli 304, 306
film locations 340
Lower East Side walk 260
Kaufman Astoria Studio 2489
Kava Caf 304, 306
Kaye Playhouse 342, 343
Kean, Edmund 92
Keaton, Diane 216
Kehila Kedosha Janina Synagogue
and Museum 260
Kemble, Fanny 92
Kennedy, John F. 250
Kent, Rockwell 263
Kentshire Galleries 326, 327
Kerouac, Jack 50
Kertesz, Andr 177
KGB Bar 349
Khrushchev, Nikita 165
Kidd, Captain William 23
Kidrobot 315, 316
Kiehls 322, 323
Kincannon, Joe 228
King, David 230
King Cole Room 308, 309
Kings College 23
Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig 176
Kirna Zabete 318, 319
The Kitchen 338, 339
Kitchen Arts & Letters 324, 325
Kitchenware stores 330, 331
Klee, Paul 188, 199, 255
Klimt, Gustav 188
Kline, Franz 50
Knickerbocker group 50
Knight, Gladys 232
Knitting Factory Brooklyn 344, 345
Koch, Mayor 35
Koenig, Fritz, The Sphere 79
Koons, Jeff 50, 102
Kosciuszko Foundation 342, 343
L 237
L&M Arts 326, 327
La Boite en Bois 304
La Farge, John 262
Church of the Ascension 116
Church of the Incarnation 161
Judson Memorial Church 117
La Terrine 331
Ladies Mile 126, 129
La Guardia, Fiorello H. 32, 33, 148
City Center of Music and Dance
150
Essex Street Market 103
Gracie Mansion 2001
Woodlawn Cemetery 243
LaGuardia Airport (LGA) 371, 375
Lalique 330, 331
Lambert, Phyllis 179
Lange, Dorothea 177
Lasker Ice Rink 352, 353
Lauder, Ronald 188
The Laugh Factory 348, 349
Laura Fisher Quilts 326, 327
Lawrie, Lee
St. Thomas Church 170, 173
Wisdom 146
Lazarus, Emma 76
Le Brun 102
Le Brun, Napoleon 137
Le Corbusier 237
Le Poisson Rouge 344, 345
Lger, Fernand, Woman Holding a
Vase 191
Lehman, Robert 198
Lehman Brothers 34
Lehmann Maupin Gallery 326, 327
Leisler, Jacob 21
Lennon, John 208, 210, 220
Lenox, James 148
Lenox Lounge 275, 344, 345
Leo Castelli 326, 327
Leo Kaplan Ltd 314, 316
Leonardo da Vinci 197, 198
Let Us Beat Swords into Plowshares
(Vuchetich) 163
Leutze, Emanuel Gottlieb,
Washington Crossing the Delaware
196
Lever House 171, 179
Levy, Moe 30
Lexington Avenue, shopping 313
Li-Lac Chocolates 328, 329
GENERAL INDEX  427
Liberty Helicopters 351
Liberty Island 77
Liberty Plaza 57
Liberty Tower 69
Liberty View 57
The Library at the Players 127, 130
Lichtenstein, Roy 50
Little Big Painting 202
Museum of Modern Art 176, 177
Lids 320, 321
The Life Building 135
Lighthouse, Washington Bridge
Lillian Nassau 326, 327
Limbourg brothers 241
Lincoln, Abraham 27, 92, 116
Lincoln Center for the Performing
Arts 12, 216
concerts 343
Jazz at Lincoln Center 3445
Lincoln Center Festival 53
Lincoln Center Out of Doors 338,
339
Lincoln Center Theater 214, 217
opera 342
Street-by-Street map 21415
Lincoln Plaza Cinema 341
Lind, Jenny 79
Linda Horn Antiques 326, 327
Lindbergh, Charles 32, 33, 156
Linen stores 331
Lingerie shops 321
Lippold, Richard 179
Lips 347
Lissitzky, El 176
Literary bars 3078
Literary events 3489
Little Big Painting (Lichtenstein)
202
The Little Church Around the
Corner 131
Little India 47, 121
Little Italy 46, 97, 98
film locations 340
Lower East Side walk 261
Street-by-Street map 967
Little Korea 46, 135
The Little Laptop Shop 330, 331
Little Poland 49
Little Ukraine 46, 121
East Village walk 2723
Liu Shih 96
Living Room Terrace 307, 309, 351
Lobby Bar 308, 309
Lobels 328, 329
Loeb Boathouse 353
Loehmanns 317, 319
Lombardis 304, 306
Lombardo, Tullio 198
Lomography Gallery Store
330, 331
Long-distance bus 372
Long Island Rail Road (LIRR) 384,
385
Longacre Theater 337
428  GENERAL INDEX
Lord, James Brown 128, 231, 274
Lord & Taylor 13, 28, 311, 322, 323
Lost and found 364
Lost City Arts 314, 316
Louise Nevelson Plaza 69
Low, Seth 226
Low Library 224, 226
Lower East Side, Chinatown, and
Little Italy 13, 46, 94103
area map 95
hotels see Downtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Downtown
shopping 312
walking tour 26061
Lower East Side Tenement Museum
13, 41, 44, 99
Lower East Side walk 260
Lower Manhattan 12
bars 309
hotels see Downtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Downtown
Lower Midtown 15267
area map 153
bars 309
hotels see Midtown
restaurants see Midtown
Street-by-Street map 1545
Luciano, Lucky 49
Lucille Lortel Theater 112, 336,
339
Lucky Strike Lanes and Lounge
350, 351
Lugosi, Bela 49
Lunasa Bar 353
Luncheonettes 305
Lunt-Fontanne Theater 337
Luxury hotels 2867
Lyce Franais de New York 266
Lyceum Theater 30, 146, 336, 337
Street-by-Street map 145
Lynch, Anne Charlotte 262
Lyric Hi-Fi 330, 331
M Manca, Albino 57
MAC Cosmetics 322, 323
McCartney, Stella 115
McComb, John, Jr. 44, 92, 109
MacDougal Alley 262
McKenney, Ruth 113
Mackenzie-Childs 330, 331
McKim, Charles 226
McKim, Mead & White 45
Brooklyn Museum 252
Columbia University 224
First Presbyterian Church 116
General Post Office 137
Judson Memorial Church 117
Low Library 224
Morgan Library & Museum
166
Municipal Building 87
Pennsylvania Station 137
St. Nicholas Historic District 23031
McKim, Mead & White (cont.)
School of Journalism 224
Strivers Row 274
Villard Houses 178
Macklowe Gallery 326, 327
McNally Jackson 324, 325
McNultys Tea & Coffee Company
328, 329
Macready, Charles 50
Macready, William 120
McSorleys Old Ale House 119, 121,
273, 308, 309
Macy, Rowland Hussey 136, 243
Macys 12, 135, 1367, 311
cosmetics 322, 323
history 30
late-night shopping 350
umbrellas 320
Macys Firework Display 53
Macys Thanksgiving Day Parade
54
Madame Tussauds Wax Museum
10, 149
Madison Avenue, shopping 313
Madison Square 126, 128
Madison Square Garden 137
concerts 344, 345
film locations 340
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
334
sports 352
Madonna 216
Magazines 369
Magnolia Bakery 305, 306, 328, 329
Mailboxes 368
Mailer, Norman 269
Majestic Theater 337
Make Up for Ever 322, 323
Malcolm X 275
Malevich, Kasimir 176
Mall in St. Jamess Park
(Gainsborough) 205
La MaMa Experimental Theatre Club
336, 338, 339
Man with a Hat (Picasso) 176
Manchester Pub 308, 309
Manet, Edouard, Before the Mirror
191
Mangin, Joseph Franois 44, 92
Manhattan
Lower Manhattan 6681
Manhattan Skyline 5663
maps 1617, 18
Manhattan Art & Antiques Center
326, 327
Manhattan Center 344, 345
Manhattan Mall 134
Manhattan Plaza Racquet Club 353
Manhattan School of Music 342,
343
Manhattan Theater Club 336, 339
Manicures 322, 323
Mannes College of Music 342, 343
Manolo Blahnik 321
Mapplethorpe, Robert 50, 255
Maps
arriving in New York 3745
Broadway theaters 337
Central Park 207
Chelsea and the Garment District
133
Columbia University 2245
East Village 119, 12021
Gramercy and the Flatiron District
125
Gramercy Park 1267
Greater New York 15
Greenwich Village 111, 11213
Herald Square 1345
Lincoln Center 21415
Little Italy and Chinatown 967
Lower East Side 95
Lower Manhattan 67
Lower Midtown 153
Manhattan 1617, 18
Morningside Heights and Harlem
223
Multicultural New York 467
Museum Mile 1867
New Yorks Best: Architecture 423
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
3345
New Yorks Best: Museums 389
New Yorks Best: Shopping 31213
North America 14
Seaport and the Civic Center 83
sights outside the center 233
sightseeing by bus 383
SoHo and TriBeCa 105
SoHo Cast-Iron Historic District
1067
South Street Seaport 845
Street Finder 386417
subway 380
Theater District 143
Times Square 1445
United States of America 1415
Upper East Side 185
Upper Midtown 169, 17071
Upper West Side 213
Wall Street 68
Marathon 352
Marble Collegiate Church 135, 136
Marc, Franz, Yellow Cow 190
Marchais, Mrs. Jacques 256
Marcus Garvey Park 233
Marian Goodman Gallery 326, 327
Marianne Boesky Gallery 326, 327
Maries Crisis 346, 347
Marine Midland Bank 68
Mario Badescu 355
Marisol 57
Maritime Crafts Center 60, 84, 271
Mark Morris Dance Center 338, 339
Marquee 346, 347
Marquis Theater 337
The Marriage Feast at Cana (de
Flandes) 193
Marsh, Reginald 75

Marshall, Thurgood 230
Martiny, Philip 87
Marx, Groucho 216
Marx Brothers 187, 248
Mary Boone Gallery 326, 327
Masefield, John 115, 262
Masseria, Joe The Boss 273
MasterCard 367
Mathew Marks Gallery 326, 327
Matisse, Henri
Brooklyn Museum 255
Metropolitan Museum of Art 199
Museum of Modern Art 176, 177
May Center for Health, Fitness, and
Sport 354, 355
Mayors Office for People with
Disabilities 280, 362, 363
Meatpacking District 13, 11415
shopping 312
Medical treatment 365
Meegan Services 279
Megabus 385
Melville, Herman 50
Waverly Place 262
Woodlawn Cemetery 243
Memorial Day 52
Mens clothes 317, 319
Merce Cunningham Studio
338, 339
Merchants House Museum 122
New Yorks Best: Museums 38, 40
Street-by-Street map 120
Mercury Lounge 344, 345
Merkin Concert Hall 342, 343
Messiah Sing-In 55
MetLife Building 62, 63, 154, 156
MetLife Stadium 344, 345, 352,
353
Metro-North Railroad 384, 385
Metropolitan Life Insurance
Company 127, 129
Metropolitan Museum of Art 12, 13,
17, 40, 41, 1929
Africa, Oceania and the Americas
196
American art 196
Ancient Near Eastern and Islamic
art 196
architecture 44
arms and armor 1967
Asian art 197
Astor Court 195
concerts 342, 343
Costume Institute 197
drawings, prints, and photographs
197
Egyptian art 198
European paintings 198
European sculpture, and
decorative arts 198
floor plans 1923, 1945
Greek and Roman art 198
history 29
Lehman Collection 1989
medieval art 199
Metropolitan Museum of Art (cont.)
modern and contemporary art 199
musical instruments 199
New Yorks Best: Museums 39
Sculpture Garden 194
shop 315, 316
Upper East Side walk 266
Visitors Checklist 193
Metropolitan Opera House 21617
ballet 338, 339
film locations 340
history 29
Metropolitan Opera Parks
Concerts 53
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
335
opera 342, 343
shop 314, 316
Street-by-Street map 214
Metropolitan Opera Tours 379
Metropolitan Room 348, 349
Meulensteen 326, 327
Meyers Hotel 85
Mezzaluna 304, 306
Mezzogiorno 304, 306
Michael Kors 318, 319
Michaels 317, 319
Michelangelo 197
Mid-Manhattan Library 349
The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere
(Wood) 199
Midtown
hotels 2834, 285, 286, 287
restaurants 298300
Midtown Comics 324, 325
Mile End 304, 306
Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 51
Neue Galerie New York 188
Seagram Building 179
Millard, Albert 242
Millay, Edna St. Vincent
75 Bedford Street 114, 262
Brooklyn Academy of Music 250
Cherry Lane Theater 114
Miller, Arthur 217, 268
Miller, Glenn 134
Milligan Place 262
Minskoff Theater 337
Minuit, Peter 20, 21, 67
Mir, Joan 176
Missoni 318, 319
Mobil Building 154
Model Boat Pond see Conservatory
Water
Modigliani, Amedeo
Anna Zborowska 175
Jeanne Hbuterne 192
Nude 190
MoMA see Museum of Modern Art
MoMA PS1, Queens 249
Mondel Chocolates 328, 329
Mondrian, Piet 176
Monet, Claude 198, 255
Water Lilies 10, 175
Money 3667
GENERAL INDEX  429
Money wires 366
MoneyGram 366, 367
Monk, Thelonious 232
Monroe, Marilyn 178, 216, 243
Montague Street, Brooklyn walk 269
MONY Tower 150
Moonstruck Diner 350, 351
Moore, Clement Clarke 140, 141
Moore, Henry 165, 216
Reclining Figure 163
Moore, Marianne 114
Morgan, J.P., Jr. 166
Morgan, Pierpont 166, 167, 218
Morgan Library & Museum 16, 1667
New Yorks Best: Museums 38, 40, 41
shop 314, 316
Morningside Heights and Harlem
22233
area map 223
hotels see Upper West Side
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Upper West Side
Morris, Mark 250
Morris, Roger 237
Morris, William 161
Morris-Jumel Mansion 25, 237
Morse, Samuel 26, 117
Moses, Robert 33, 248, 257
Mostly Mozart Festival 53
Mother Zion church 274
Mould, Jacob Wrey, Angel of the
Waters 211
Mount Morris Historical District 233
Mount Vernon Hotel Museum 40,
200
Movie Tickets Online 333
Moviefone 332
Movies see Film
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus
Horn Concerto score 166
Mostly Mozart Festival 53
Mr Locks Inc. 35051
MTA Travel Information 383
MTA Trip Planner 383
MTC Kitchen 330, 331
Mudspot 305, 306
Mulberry Bend 261
Mller-Munk, Peter 254
Multicultural New York 469
Munch, Edvard 177
Municipal Art Society 379
Municipal Art Society Urban Center
178
Municipal Building 45, 61, 87
Murray, Elizabeth, Children Meeting
202
Murrays Cheese Shop 328, 329
El Museo del Barrio 41, 233
Museum Mile
Museum Mile Festival 53
Street-by-Street map 1867
Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) 10,
12, 13, 1747
1880s to 1940s painting and
sculpture 176
430  GENERAL INDEX
Museum of Modern Art (cont.)
architecture and design 177
drawings and other works on
paper 176
film department 177
floor plan 1745
MoMA Design Store 315, 316
New Yorks Best: Museums 38, 40
photography 177
postwar painting and sculpture
176
prints and illustrated books 177
Street-by-Street map 170
Visitors Checklist 175
Museums and galleries (general) 361
for children 356
New Yorks Best 3840
shops 315
Museums and galleries (individual)
American Folk Art Museum 40,
173, 215, 315, 316
American Museum of Natural
History 11, 39, 41, 21819, 315,
316, 341
Asia Society 41
Brooklyn Childrens Museum 249
Brooklyn Museum 13, 2525
Childrens Museum of the Arts 109
Childrens Museum of Manhattan
11, 221
City Island Museum 243
The Cloisters Museum 23841
Coney Island Museum 251
Cooper-Hewitt National Design
Museum 39, 40, 186, 188, 267,
315, 316
Ellis Island 40, 41
Forbes Magazine Building 116
Fraunces Tavern Museum 41, 78
Frick Collection 13, 39, 40, 2045,
266, 343
FusionArts Museum 103
Gracie Mansion 40
Historic Richmond Town 41
International Center of
Photography 40
Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum 38,
151
Jacques Marchais Museum of
Tibetan Art 41, 256
Japan Society 41
Jewish Museum 13, 41, 43, 186,
188, 267, 315
Kehila Kedosha Janina Synagogue
and Museum 260
Lower East Side Tenement
Museum 13, 41, 44, 99, 260
Merchants House Museum 38, 40,
120, 122
Metropolitan Museum of Art 12,
13, 17, 29, 39, 40, 41, 44, 1929,
266, 315, 316, 342, 343
MoMA PS1, Queens 249
Morgan Library & Museum 16, 38,
40, 41, 1667
Museums and galleries (cont.)
Mount Vernon Hotel Museum 40,
200
El Museo del Barrio 41, 233
Museum of Arts and Design 40,
151, 315, 316
Museum of the City of New York
39, 40, 201, 315, 316
Museum of Jewish Heritage 13,
41, 79, 270, 315, 316
Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)
10, 12, 13, 38, 40, 1747
Museum of the Moving Image
and Kaufman Astoria Studio 41,
2489, 341
National Academy Museum 40,
186, 188
National Museum of the American
Indian 40, 75
Neue Galerie New York 185, 188
New Museum of Contemporary
Art 40, 102
New York City Fire Museum 41,
109
New York City Police Museum
41, 78, 86
Newhouse Center for
Contemporary Art 257
Paley Center for Media 41, 170,
173, 341
Schomburg Center for Research
into Black Culture 41, 231
Skyscraper Museum 74, 270
Smithsonian National Museum
of the American Indian 75
Solomon R. Guggenheim
Museum 12, 13, 17, 34, 39, 40,
185, 186, 19091
South Street Seaport Museum 41,
84, 86, 271, 315, 316
Staten Island Childrens Museum
257, 356, 357
Studio Museum in Harlem 40,
2323, 275
Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace
40, 126, 129
Van Cortlandt House Museum
23, 242
Whitney Museum of American Art
13, 39, 40, 2023, 315, 316, 341, 343
Music 3425
classical and contemporary 3423
music stores 3245
musicians 51
opera 342
rock, jazz, and world music 3445
Music Box Theater 337
Myers of Keswick 328, 329
Myplasticheart 314, 316
Mysterious Bookshop 324, 325
N New York Gazette 22
Nadelman, Elie 183, 216
Tango 203
The Nail (Pomodoro) 63
Nassau Coliseum 352, 353
Nast, Thomas 130
National (car rental) 379
National Academy Museum
40, 186, 188
National Arts Club 126, 130
National Boat Show 55
National Museum of the American
Indian 40, 75
National September 11 Memorial
and Museum 12, 13, 35, 56, 66, 74
National Tennis Center 248, 353
Native Americans 20
National Museum of the American
Indian 40, 75
NBC 146, 341, 369, 379
Nederlander Theater 337
Neighborhood Playhouse School
of the Theater 336
Neil Simon Theater 337
NeOn 372, 373
Nesbit, Evelyn 128
Neue Galerie New York 185, 188
Nevada Smiths 353
Nevelson, Louise 179
Night Presence IV 187
New Amsterdam 19, 20
New Amsterdam Theater 149, 337
New Dramatists 336, 339
New Haven, Connecticut 385
New Jersey Performance Arts
Center 342, 343
New Jersey Transit 384, 385
New Kam Man Market 328, 329
New Museum of Contemporary Art
40, 94, 95, 102
New Victory Theater 144, 337
New Years Eve 55
New York Aquarium 251
New York Botanical Garden 234,
235, 2445
New York City & Co. see NYC & Co.
New York City Ballet Spring Season
52
New York City Fire Museum
41, 109
New York City Marathon 54
New York City Parks & Recreation
Department 353
New York CityPASS 361, 363
New York City Police Museum 41,
78, 86
New York Comedy Club 348, 349
New York County Courthouse
867
New York Cruise Terminal 372, 373
New York Earth Room 109
New York Film Festival 54, 340
New York Firefighters Friend 314,
316
New York Food Tours 351
New York Hall of Science 248
New York Historical Society 220
New York Hospital 25

New York Hotel Urgent Medical
Services 365
New York is Book Country 54
New York Knickerbockers 27, 50
New York Life Insurance Company
445, 127, 128
New York Palace Hotel, interior 2767
New York Pass 361, 363
New York Philharmonic 51, 151, 189,
214, 216, 217, 342, 343, 362
New York Philharmonic Parks
Concerts 53
New York Post 25
New York Public Library 10, 41, 115,
122, 142, 143, 148
architecture 45
history 31
shop 314, 316
tours 379
New York Road Runners 354, 355
New York School of Abstract
Expressionists 50
New York State Theater 214, 216,
338, 339
New York Stock Exchange 11, 12, 13,
59, 70, 723
history 28
Street-by-Street map 68
New York Times 27, 369
New York Transit Museum Store 320,
321
New York University 117, 338, 339
New York University Institute of Fine
Arts 266
New York Yacht Club 147
New Yorks Best: Museums 389,
4041
The New Yorker 32
Newark Airport 371, 374
Newhouse Center for
Contemporary Art 257
Newspapers 369
Niggerati Manor 2745
Night Presence IV (Nevelson) 187
Nightclubs 346, 347
Ninth Avenue International Food
Festival 52
Nixon, Richard M. 136
No Relation Vintage 318, 319
Noguchi, Isamu 68
Nokia Theater 344, 345
Non-Violence (Reutersward) 163
Nordstrom Rack 317, 319, 320, 321
Norman, Jessye 217
Northern Dispensary 113, 262
Nude (Modigliani) 190
Nugent, Bruce 274
The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky) 335
Nuyorican Poets Caf 349, 350, 351
NYC & Company 278, 279, 332, 333,
360, 363
NYC Pride March 53
NYC Winter Jazzfest 344, 345
NYU Dental Care 365
NYU Loeb Student Center 263
O Paramount Bar 308, 309
Oakley, Annie 85
Oasis Day Spa 355
Ocean travel 372
Odeon 304, 306, 307, 309, 350
Odlum, Robert 91
Off-Broadway theaters 336
Officer and Laughing Girl (Vermeer)
205
OFlanagans 350, 351
OKeeffe, Georgia 199, 202, 255
Old New York County Courthouse
92
Old St. Patricks Cathedral 101
Old Town Bar 308, 309
Oldenburg, Claes 176
Olmsted, Frederick Law
Brooklyn Botanic Garden 251
Central Park 27, 210
Grand Army Plaza 250
Prospect Park 221
Riverside Park 221
Olympia Airport Express 371, 373
Olympia Theater 30
Olympic Tower 170
One New York Plaza 59
One Shubert Alley 314, 316
One World Trade Center 35, 45, 56,
57
ONeill, Eugene 51, 112, 115
ONeill, Hugh 141
Only Hearts 314, 316
Ono, Yoko 210, 220, 272
Opening hours 361
bars 307
restaurants 289
shops 310
Opera 342
Orchard Street 13, 100
Orens Daily Roast 328, 329
Orensanz, Angel 103
Origins 322, 323
Orrefors Kosta Boda 330, 331
Oscar Blandi 323
Other Music 273, 324, 325
Ottomanellis Caf 357
Out-of-Doors Festival 53
An Out of Doors Study (Sargent) 253
Outdoor concerts 343
Oz Hair NYC 323
P Peace Fountain (Wyatt) 228
Pace Gallery 326, 327
Pace University 61
Pacha 346, 347
Pacific art 254
Painting Number 5 (Hartley) 203
Palace Theater 337
Paley, William S. 173
Paley Center for Media 41, 173
classic films 341
Street-by-Street map 170
Paley Park 171
Paper Bag Players 357
Papp, Joseph 120, 122
GENERAL INDEX  431
Paramount Building 149
Paramount Hotel 144
Paris, Treaty of (1783) 25
Paris Through the Window (Chagall)
190
The Park 346, 347
Park Avenue Armory 189
Park Avenue Plaza 171
Park Row 923
Park Slope Ale House 308, 309
Park Slope Historic District 250
Parker, Charlie Bird 51, 232, 273
Parker, Dorothy 147
Parker, Sarah Jessica 197
Parking 377, 379
Parking penalties 377
Parking Violations Bureau 377, 379
Parks and gardens
Battery Park 12, 79, 271
Brooklyn Botanic Garden 251
Bryant Park 10, 147, 343
Carl Schurz Park 200, 267
Central Park 11, 12, 20611
City Hall Park 923
The Cloisters gardens 241
Columbus Park 96, 99
Damrosch Park 343
Flushing Meadow-Corona Park
248
Gramercy Park 1267, 130
Marcus Garvey Park 233
New York Botanical Garden 2445
Paley Park 171
Prospect Park 13, 28, 25051
Riverside Park 221
Robert F. Wagner, Jr. Park 270
Stuyvesant Square 131
Tompkins Square 118, 119, 123,
273
Union Square 131
Washington Square 117, 343
Partridge, William O. 180
Passenger Ship Terminal 374
Patchin Place 113, 115, 262
PATH 384, 385
Paul VI, Pope 243
Paul Stuart 317, 319
Paula Cooper 326, 327
Pavarotti, Luciano 217
Pavlova, Anna 250
The Peaceable Kingdom (Hicks) 40
Peale, Norman Vincent 135, 136
Pearl River Mart 315
Peculier Pub 308, 309
Pedicures 322, 323
Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden 244
Pei, I.M. 140
Pelham Bay Park 354, 355
Pelli, Cesar & Associates 71
Penn Station 34, 3724, 384
Performance theaters 336
Perkins, George W. 242
La Perla 321
432  GENERAL INDEX
The Persistence of Memory (Dal)
176
Personal Security 3645
Peter Pan 385
Petes Tavern 124, 125, 127, 308, 309
Petit, Philippe 74
La Petite Coquette 321
Pharmacies 365
Philharmonic Rehearsals 335
The Phillips Club 279
Phillips de Pury & Co. 326, 327
Phipps, John 385
Phones 368
The Photo Village 330, 331
Photography stores 330, 331
Phyfe, Duncan 200
Piano bars 348, 349
Picasso, Pablo 177, 255
Bust of Sylvette 117
Les Demoiselles dAvignon 10, 175,
176
Goat 38
Man with a Hat 176
Portrait of Gertrude Stein 194, 199
Woman Ironing 190
Woman with Yellow Hair 191
The Pickle Guys 102, 260, 328, 329
Pieces 346, 347
Pier 17 60, 85, 271
Pier A 271
The Pierre 10, 45
Pierre de Wiessant (Rodin) 255
Pilates 354
Pilothouse 84
Pinch Sitters 3567
Pink Olive 317, 319
Pioneer 85, 356
Piranesi, Giambattista 255
Pisano, Giovanni 199
Pissarro, Camille 255
Pizzerias 3045
P.J. Carneys 3089
P.J. Clarkes 304, 306, 3089
Plant, Morton F. 170, 172
Plaza Hotel 183, 3056
Plymouth Church 268
Poe, Edgar Allan 50
Appellate Division of the Supreme
Court of the State of New York
128
Northern Dispensary 113
Waverly Place 262
Poetry Project 349
Poetry slams 3489
Police 364, 365
Police Headquarters Building
97, 98
Police Plaza 61
The Polish Rider (Rembrandt) 204
Pollard, George Mort 217
Pollock, Jackson 50, 176, 199
Pollock, St. Clair 227
Polo/Ralph Lauren 319
Pomander Walk 220
Pomodoro, Arnaldo 63
Pons, Lily 221
Pop Art 50
Port Authority Bus Terminal 372,
373, 374
Port of New York 10, 27
Porter, Cole 179
Porthault 331
Porto Rico Importing Company
328, 329
Portrait of Gertrude Stein (van Gogh)
194, 199
Portrait of the Postman Joseph Roulin
(van Gogh) 175, 176
Portrait of the Princesse de Broglie
(Ingres) 193
Poseidon Greek Bakery 328, 329
Posh 347
Postal services 3689
Postmasters 326, 327
Postwar New York 345
Poussin, Nicolas 198
Powell, Adam Clayton, Jr. 33, 231,
274
Power, Tyrone 183
Power Pilates 354, 355
Powerhouse Arena 324, 325
Prada 320, 321
Pratesi 331
Pravda 307, 309
Presidents Day Holiday Sales 55
Price and Luce 231
The Princeton Club 314, 316
Print Space Photo Lab 330, 331
Priority Mail 3689
Professor Thoms 353
Prohibition 32, 33
Promenade 269
Prometheus Statue, Rockerfeller
Center 10
Prospect Park 13, 28, 25051
Riverside Park 221
Prudential Center 352, 353
P.S. 122 336, 338, 339
Public conveniences 361
Public holidays 55
Public Theater 120, 122, 334, 336,
339
films 341
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
335
Pucelle, Jean 241
Puck Building 101
Puerto Rican Day Parade 53
Pulaski Day Parade 54
Pulitzer, Joseph 224, 266
The Pursuit (Fragonard) 205
Pusterla, Attilio 87
Pyle, Howard 200
Q Restoration Hardware 331
Quad Cinema 341
Queen Elizabeth Monument 59
Queens 248
Queens-Midtown Tunnel 33
Quikbook 279
R
Rachmaninoff, Sergei 250
Racquet Club 171
Radio 342, 369
Radio City Music Hall 338, 339,
344, 348, 349
Radio City Music Hall Stage Door
Tours 379
Rafaello & Co. 320, 321
Rail travel 3723, 3845
Rainfall 55
Ralph Lauren 318, 319
The Ramble, Central Park tour 209
Randall, Robert Richard 257
Randalls Island Golf Center 354,
355
Randel Plan (1811) 26
Raouls 304, 306
Rapp & Rapp 149
Rauschenberg, Robert 176
Ray, Man 177
Reclining Figure (Moore) 163
Red Caboose 314, 316
Red Market 350, 351
Red Rooster Harlem 275
Redon, Odilon 177
Reed, John 115
Reed & Stern 158
Regency 350
Religious music 3423
Rembrandt 197, 198
The Polish Rider 204
Self-Portrait 195
Renting a car 377
Renwick, James 123, 180
Renwick Triangle 121
reservations 279
Responsible tourism 363
Restaurants 288309
celebrity chefs 289
children in 289, 357
dining on a budget 2889
Downtown 2927
dress codes 289
Farther Afield 303
The Flavors of New York 29091
late-night New York 350, 351
light meals and snacks 3046
menus 288
midtown 298300
opening hours 289
prices 288
reservations 289
smoking in 289
taxes and tipping 288
Upper East Side 3001
Upper West Side 3012
wheelchair access 289
see also Food and drink
Reutersward, Karl Fredrik, Non-
Violence 163
Revere, Paul 114, 196
Revolution Books 324, 325
Revolutionary War 19, 245

Rhinelander, Serena 201
Rice, Elmer 231
Richard Rodgers Theater 337
Richmond County Fair 54
Richmond Town 256
Rickover, Hyman 49
Riis, Jacob 99
Ringling, John 130
Rite Aid 350
River Caf 268, 350, 351
Rivers, Joan 226
Riverside Church 2267
Riverside Drive and Park 213,
22021
Robeson, Paul 231
Robinson, Jackie 34
Robinson, Sugar Ray 230
Rock Center Caf 10
Rock music 344, 345
Rockefeller, John D. 28
Brooklyn Museum 253, 254
Rockefeller, John D. II 33
The Cloisters 238
Riverside Church 226
Rockefeller Center 146
United Nations headquarters 162
Rockefeller, John D. III 161, 189
Rockefeller, Nelson 196
Rockefeller Center 10, 12, 13, 33, 63,
146
Lower Plaza 10
Prometheus Statue 10
Rink Bar 10
Rock Center Caf 10
Rockefeller family 183
Rockefeller Plaza 341
Rockefeller Plaza Rink 54, 352, 353
Rockerfeller Sculpture Garden 174
Rockwell, Norman 215, 217
The Golden Rule 165
Rockwood Music Hall 345
Rodchenko, Alexander 176
Rodgers, Richard 51, 150
Rodin, Auguste 198
Pierre de Wiessant 255
Roebling, John A. 88, 89
Roebling, Washington 89, 269
Roman art, Temple of Dendur 193
Rooftop Bar and Lounge 307, 309
The Room 308, 309
Roosevelt, Franklin D. 385
Roosevelt, Theodore
birthplace 40, 126, 129
Wave Hill 242
Roosevelt Island 183
Rose Bar 308, 309
Rose Center for Earth and Space
212, 213, 220, 341, 345
Rose Cinemas 341
Rosenthal, Bernard 61
Alamo 120, 272
Ross, Diana 249
Ross, Harold 147
Roth, Emery 156, 216
Rotherhithe (Whistler) 255
Rothko, Mark 50, 176
Rough Trade NYC 324, 325
Rowson, Susanna 50
Rubens, Peter Paul 197, 198
Rudys 314, 316, 350, 351
Ruppert, Jacob 243
Rush hours 361, 377
Russ & Daughters 260, 328, 329
Russell, Rosalind 220
Russian and Turkish Bath House 273
Ruth, Babe 32, 128, 243
S into Black Culture 41, 231
Sabarsky, Serge 188
Sabon 322, 323
Saelzer, Alexander 103
Safety 3645
Sagan, Carl 220
Sahadi Imports 269
St. Bartholomews Church 171, 178
Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton Shrine 57,
78, 181
Saint-Gaudens, Augustus 116, 128,
262
St. James Theater 337
St. John the Baptist Church 134, 137
St. Lukes Place 112, 114
St. Marks Ale House 272
St. Marks Bookshop 324, 325
St. Marks-in-the-Bowery Church
121, 123, 273
St. Marks Place 121, 272
St. Marys Garden 63
St. Nicholas Historic District 23031
Harlem walk 274
St. Nicholas Hotel 107, 108
St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox
Cathedral 201
St. Patricks Cathedral 11, 12, 13,
18081
history 28
Street-by-Street map 170
St. Patricks Day Parade 52
St. Pauls Chapel (Broadway) 11, 24,
93, 343
St. Pauls Chapel (Columbia
University) 225, 226
St. Peters Church 342, 343
St. Thomas Church 170, 173
Saint-Guilhem Cloister, Cloister
Museum 239
Saints Alp 305, 306
Saks Fifth Avenue 11, 170, 311, 313
cosmetics 322, 323
Street-by-Street map 170
Sales 310
Salinger, J.D. 211, 226
Salmagundi Club 116
Sandburg, Carl 250
Sant Ambroeus 305, 306
Santos Party House 346, 347
Sarabeths 304, 306
Sardis 144, 308, 309
Sargent, John Singer 196, 255
An Out of Doors Study 253
GENERAL INDEX  433
Schaller & Weber 267
Schermerhorn, Peter 86
Schermerhorn Row 44, 84, 86
Schiaparelli, Elsa 197
Schiele, Egon 188
Schiffman, Frank 232
Schillers Liquor Bar 307, 309
Schlemmer, Oskar 188
Schnabel, Julian 131
Scholastic Store 324, 325
Schomburg, Arthur 231, 274
Schomburg Center for Research
Harlem walk 274, 275
School of Journalism 224
Schrager, Ian 131
Schultz, Dutch 32
Schultze & Weaver 179
Schurz, Carl 200, 267
Scoop 318, 319
Screaming Mimis 318, 319
Scruffy Duffys 350, 351
Sculpture Garden, Metropolitan
Museum of Art 194
Scutt, Der 172
Seagram Building 43, 179
Seaport and the Civic Center 8293
area map 83
hotels see Downtown
restaurants see Downtown
Seaport Plaza 61
Second Avenue Deli 304, 306
Segal, George 188
Segovia, Andrs 199
Sejima & Nishizawa 102
Self-Portrait (Rembrandt) 195
Senior travelers 362
The Sensuous Bean 328, 329
Sephora 322, 323
Serendipity 3 305, 306
Serra, Richard 176
Services, late-night New York 350,
351
Seton, Elizabeth Ann 57, 78
Seurat, Georges 197
Severance, H. Craig 157
Severini, Gino 176
Shaarai Shomoyim First Romanian-
American Congregation 260
Shake Shack 128, 305, 306
Shakespeare & Co. 324, 325
Shakespeare in Central Park 53
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
335
Shaw, George Bernard 130
Sheridan, General Philip 115
Sheridan Square 115
Sherman 177
Sherman Fairchild Center 225
Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits
328, 329
Shimamoto, George 161
Shoe shops 32021
Shoofly 321
Shop Gotham 311
434  GENERAL INDEX
Shopping 31031
accessories 32021
art and antiques 3267
beauty, manicures and pedicures,
and hair salons 3223
best buys 310
books and music 3245
for children 357
department stores and malls
311
electronics and housewares
33031
fashion 31719
gourmet groceries, speciality
food and wine shops 3289
how to pay 310
late-night shopping 350, 351
memorabilia 314, 316
museum shops 315, 316
New Yorks Best 31213
opening hours 310
sales 310
shopping tours 311
specialty shops 314, 316
taxes 311
toys, games, and gadgets 31415,
316
Shops at Columbus Circle 311
Short Line Bus 385
Showplace Antique and Design
Center 326, 327
Shrine of Mother Seton see Saint
Elizabeth Ann Seton Shrine
Shubert, Sam S. 150
Shubert Alley 150
Shubert Theater 337
Sidewalk Caf 345
Sigerson Morrison 320, 321
Silva, Pedro 227
Silver Lake Golf Course 355
Silvers, Phil 249
Simon, Neil 249
Simon, Paul 51, 216
Sinatra, Frank 149
Singer Building 107, 108
Sir Thomas More (Holbein) 204
SJM Building 134
Skidmore, Owings & Merrill 179
Skyscraper Museum 74, 270
Skyscrapers 43, 45
Slate Billiards 350, 353
Sloan, Adele 267
Sloan, John 117, 199, 262
Sloan & Robertson 156, 161
SMac 357
Smalls 344, 345
Smith, Abigail Adams 200
Smith, Bessie 232
Smith, W. Eugene 149
Smithsonian National Museum
of the American Indian 75
Smoke 344, 345
Smoking 361
in restaurants 289
Smyth, Ned 56
Sniffen, John 161
Sniffen Court 161
Snug Harbor Cultural Center
2567
SOBs 345, 346, 347
Society for Ethical Culture 215
Society of Illustrators 200
SoHo and TriBeCa 12, 13, 1049
area map 105
bars 309
hotels see Downtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Downtown
shopping 312
walking tour 2623
SoHo Cast-Iron Historic District
44
Street-by-Street map 1067
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
12, 13, 17, 185, 19091
history 34
New Yorks Best: Museums 39, 40
Street-by-Street map 186
Sondheim, Stephen 183
The Song of Los (Blake) 166
Sony Building 171
Sony Style 330, 331
Sony Wonder Technology Lab 357
Sothebys 326, 327
Soul food 291
Sound by Singer 330, 331
South Cove 270
South Street Seaport 11, 12, 13, 86
shopping 312
skyline 6061
Street-by-Street map 845
Waterfront walk 271
South Street Seaport Museum
41, 271
shops 315, 316
Southbridge Towers 61
Southwest Airlines 370, 373
Space Kiddets 317, 319
Space.NK 322, 323
Spas 355
The Sphere (Koenig) 79
Spirit of New York 379
Spoonbill & Sugartown Booksellers
324, 325
Sports 3523
fitness and wellbeing 3545
late-night New York 350, 351
Sports bars 353
Spring in New York 52
Spring Street Wine Shop 328, 329
Squadron A Armory 187
STA Travel 362, 363
Stamp Act (1765) 24
Stand-up NY 348, 349
Star of India, American Museum
of Natural History 218
Starbucks 305, 306
Starck, Philippe 144
The Starry Night (Van Gogh) 10
Staten Island 256
Staten Island Childrens Museum
257, 356, 357
Staten Island Ferry 31, 789, 350,
378, 379
Statue of Liberty 11, 12, 13, 16, 66,
67, 767
history 29
late-night opening 351
Waterfront walk 271
Steichen, Edward 177, 197, 255
Stein, Gertrude 194, 199
Steinbeck, John 236
Stella, Joseph, Brooklyn Bridge:
Variation on an Old Theme 39
Stereo Exchange 330, 331
Stern, Isaac 151
Stern, Rudi 109
Stewart, A.T. 123
Stieglitz, Alfred 177, 197
Still, Clyfford 199
Stock market crash (1929) 32, 73
Stokes, William Earl Dodge 221
Stokowski, Leopold 51, 151
The Stone 345
Stone Rose Lounge 307, 309
Stonewall Inn 347
Stony Brook 385
Stowe, Harriet Beecher 2689
Strand Book Store 324, 325, 349
Strasberg, Lee 49
Straus, Isidor and Nathan 136
Stravinsky, Igor 221
Strawberry Fields 210
Central Park tour 208
Street food 291
Streets 376
Strivers Row 274
Stuart, Gilbert 196
StubHub! 333, 352, 353
Student travelers 362
Studio 54 Theater 337
Studio Museum in Harlem
40, 2323, 275
Studio 54 337
Stuyvesant, Peter 19, 20, 21
burial place 123, 273
East Village 120
statue of 87
Stuyvesant, Peter G. 131
Stuyvesant family 272
Stuyvesant-Fish House 121
Stuyvesant Polyclinic 121
Stuyvesant Square 131
Subways 38081
Suite hotels 279
Sullivan, John L. 128
Sullivan, Louis 123
Sullivan Room 346, 347
Sullivan Street Tea & Spice Co.
328, 329
Summer in New York 53
Sunshine 53
SuperShuttle 371, 373
Surma 315
The Surrey 281, 287

Surrogates Court and Hall of
Records 61, 87
Sutton Place 182
Suzanne Millinery 320, 321
Swanke, Hayden, Connell & Partners
172
Swann Galleries 326, 327
Swanson, Gloria 248
Swedish Cottage Marionette
Theater 357
Sweet Life 315
Sweet Lily Natural Nail Spa &
Boutique 322, 323
Swift, Hildegarde Hoyt 237
Swimming 355
Sylvias 232, 275
Symphony Space
classical music 342, 343
contemporary dance 338
performance theater 336, 339
Synagogues
Angel Orensanz Center 103
Bialystoker Synagogue 100
Brotherhood Synagogue 127
Central Synagogue 182
Eldridge Street Synagogue 97, 99,
260
Kehila Kedosha Janina Synagogue
260
Temple Emanu-El 189
Synod of Bishops of the Russian
Orthodox Church of Russia 187
T Tiffany & Co. 320, 321, 330
Tammany Hall 29
Tammany Tiger 29
Tango (Nadelman) 203
Tao Bar 307, 309
Tap (Theater Access Project) 333
Tarrytown 385
Taschen Store 324, 325
Taxes
hotel 278
restaurant 288
sales 311, 361
Taxi & Limousine Commission 378,
379
Taxi Lost and Found 379
Taxis 378
Tchaikovsky, Peter Ilyich 150
TD Bank 366, 367
Tea & Sympathy 305, 306
Tea rooms 305
Tekserve 330, 331
Telecharge 332, 333
Telephones 368
in hotels 279
Television 369
Television shows 341
Temperatures 54
Temple Bar 350, 351
Temple Emanu-El 189
Tender Buttons 314, 316
Tenements 43, 44
Tenniel, Sir John 40, 166
GENERAL INDEX
Tennis 3523
Terra Blues 345
La Terrine 330, 331
Teuscher Chocolates 328, 329
TG-170 320, 321
Thackeray, William Makepeace 122
Thanksgiving 54
Thaw, Harry K. 115, 128
Theater 3367, 339
Theater District 14251
area map 143
bars 309
hotels see Midtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Midtown
The Theater at Madison Square
Garden 348, 349
Theaterworks USA 357
Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace
40, 126, 129
Things Japanese 315
Thom Bar 308, 309
Thomas Cook 366, 367
Thomas, Dylan 50, 141
Thomas Pink 317, 319
Thonet, Gebrder 177
Three Flags (Johns) 203
Thumb, General Tom 123
Thurman, Wallace 274
Ticketmaster 3323, 352, 353
TicketsNow 333
Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 197
Tiffany, Louis Comfort 189, 196
Belasco Theater 145
Church of the Incarnation 161
film locations 340
Marble Collegiate Reformed
Church 136
Metropolitan Museum of Art
196
Street-by-Street map 171
Tilden, Samuel 130
Time zones 3623
Times Square 10, 12, 33, 149
restoration of 34
Street-by-Street map 1445
Times Square Information Bureau
363
Tipping 361
in bars 307
in hotels 279
in restaurants 288
RMS Titanic Memorial 60, 84
TKTS 332, 333
Tod Williams Billie Tsien & Associates
173
Tolls, bridge 373
Tompkins Square 123, 273
Tompkins Square Park 118, 119,
273
Toni & Guy 323
Tontine Coffee House 25
Top of the Rock 12, 351
Top of the Tower 307, 309, 348, 349
 435
Toscanini, Arturo 51
The Ansonia 221
Carnegie Hall 151
Wave Hill 242
Totonno Pizzeria 304, 306
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 255
Tourist information 36061
Tours 379
late-night New York 35051
Toussaint, Pierre 101
Town Hall 342, 343
Town House 346, 347
Townshend Act (1767) 24
Toy shops 31415, 316
Toys R Us 314, 316, 357
Track and field sports 353
Traffic Department Tow Pound
377, 379
Trains 3723, 3845
Trans-Bridge Lines 385
Transportation Building 61
Trash and Vaudeville 314, 316
East Village walk 272
late-night New York 350
Travel 37085
air 37071
arriving in New York 3745
buses 372, 3823
driving in New York 377
ocean travel 372
subways 38081
taxis 378
trains 3723, 3845
Travel insurance 365
Travelers Aid 365
Travelers checks 366
Travelex Currency Services Inc.
366, 367
Tredwell, Gertrude 122
Tredwell, Seabury 122
Tree-Lighting Ceremony 55
Triad 348, 349
Triangle Shirtwaist Factory 30, 31,
117
TriBeCa Film Festival 52, 340, 341
Tribeca Grand, lobby 279
TriBeCa Greenmarket 328, 329
Tribute WTC Visitor Center 74
Trinity Building 68
Trinity Church 11, 21, 66, 70
concerts 343
Street-by-Street map 68
Waterfront walk 271
True, Clarence F. 220
Trumball, Edward 157
Trump, Donald 34, 51
Plaza Hotel 183
Trump Tower 34, 63, 171, 172
Wollman Rink 208
Tucker, Marcia 102
Tudor City 10, 62, 160
Street-by-Street map 155
Tunnel tolls 373
Turner, J.M.W., The Harbor of
Dieppe 204
436  GENERAL INDEX
Turntable Lab 324, 325
Twain, Mark 29, 262
Audubon Terrace 236
Cooper Union 122
Hartford, Connecticut 384
The Library at the Players 130
Morgan Library and Museum 167
Wave Hill 242
Tweed, William Boss 28, 29, 92,
130
Twin Peaks 112, 262
Twin Towers of Central Park West
45, 216
Two Boots 304, 306
TwoDo Salon 323
Tyler, John 116
U V
Ukrainian Institute of America 266
Ukrainian National Home 272
Umbertos Clam House 97
Umbrella shops 320, 321
Uncle Charlies 346, 347
Underground Railroad 274
Union Square 131
Greenmarket 328, 329, 363
Union Square Wines and Spirits
328, 329
Uniqlo 317, 319
United Airlines 370, 373
United Nations 10, 13, 17, 62,
1625
Economic and Social Council
165
film locations 340
General Assembly 164
history 34, 165
Secretariat 165
Security Council 164
Trusteeship Council 1645
Visitors Checklist 163
works of art 165
United States Courthouse 45, 61,
87
United States Custom House 57,
75
United States General Post Office
45
University Club 170
Upjohn, Richard 70, 116
Upper East Side 47, 184205
area map 185
bars 309
hotels 284, 287
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants 3001
walking tour 2667
Upper Manhattan 236
Upper Midtown 16883
area map 169
bars 309
hotels see Midtown
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants see Midtown
Street-by-Street map 17071
The Upper Room (Smyth) 56
Upper West Side 13, 21221
area map 213
bars 309
hotels 282, 284, 285, 287
light meals and snacks 306
restaurants 3012
Upright Citizens Brigade Theatre
348, 349
Uptown Lounge 308, 309
Urban Archaeology 314, 316
US Airways 35
US Custom House 44, 75
US Open Tennis Championships
53
US Post Office 369
Valentino 318, 319
Valentino, Rudolph 49, 217, 248
Van Alen, William 157
Van Cortlandt, Frederick 23, 242
Van Cortlandt House Museum 23,
242
Van Dyck, Sir Anthony 198
Van Eyck, Jan, Diptych 195
Van Gogh, Vincent 198, 255
Cypresses 194
Portrait of the Postman Joseph
Roulin 175, 176
The Starry Night 10
Van Wyck, Robert 30
Vanderbilt, Consuelo 173
Vanderbilt, Cornelius 51
Colonnade Row 122
Grand Central Terminal 158
Staten Island Ferry 78
statue of 158
Vanderbilt, Gloria 183
Vanderbilt, William Henry 172
Vanderbilt, W.K. 28
Vanderbilt family 183
Vanderbilt Gate 211
Vanderbilt YMCA 281, 355
Vaughan, Henry 229
Vaughan, Sarah 232
Vaux, Calvert 27
Central Park 207, 210
Grand Army Plaza 250
National Arts Club 130
Prospect Park 250
Velzquez, Diego de Silva y 198,
236
Venieros 273
Verlzon Telephone Company 61
Vermeer, Johannes
Officer and Laughing Girl 205
Young Woman with a Water Jug
198
Verrazano, Giovanni da 19, 20
Verrazano Narrows Bridge 34
Veselka 272, 305, 306
Viand 305, 306
Victorias Secret 321
Victors Caf 304, 306 Washington, Dinah 232
Vidal Sassoon 323
Vietnam Veterans Plaza 58, 78,
271
The Village Copier 368, 369
Village Light Opera Group
342, 343
Village Pourhouse 353
Village Vanguard 344, 345
New Yorks Best: Entertainment
334
Villard, Henry 29, 178
Villard Houses 45, 170, 178
Villeroy & Boch 330, 331
Villon, Jacques 176
Virgin Atlantic 370, 373
Visa (credit card) 367
Visas 360
Vivian Beaumont 339
Von Steuben Day Parade 54
Von Trapp family 49
Vuchetich, Evgeny, Let Us Beat
Swords into Plowshares 163
W
Wagner, Albert and Herman 101
Wagner Park 270
Waldo, Gertrude Rhinelander 266
Waldorf-Astoria 30, 63, 179
history 30
Street-by-Street map 171
tea room 305, 306
Walker, ALeila 274
Walker, Madam C.J. 274
Walker, Mayor Jimmy 32, 114
Walker & Gillette 183
Walker School of Hair 274
Walking 25875, 378
Brooklyn 2689
Greenwich Village and SoHo 2623
guided tours 379
Harlem 2745
Lower East Side 26061
Upper East Side 2667
Waterfront walk 27071
Walking tours 379
Wall of Democracy 96
Wall Street 13
Street-by-Street map 689
Waterfront walk 271
Wall Street crash (1929) 32, 73
Walter, Bruno 51, 151
Walter Kerr Theater 337
Walter Reade Theater 341
War of 1812 26
Warburg, Felix M. 43, 188
Warhol, Andy 34, 35, 50
Electric Circus 272
Green Coca-Cola Bottles 202
Metropolitan Museum of Art 199
Museum of Modern Art 176, 177
Warren & Wetmore 45
Grand Central Terminal 158
Helmsley Building 160
Washington Bridge, lighthouse 237

Washington, George
Declaration of Independence 92
Federal Hall 41, 68, 70
film locations 340
Four Chimneys 269
Fraunces Tavern 78
Fulton Ferry Landing 268
Metropolitan Museum of Art 196
Morris-Jumel Mansion 236, 237
Revolutionary War 24, 25
St. Pauls Chapel 93
Van Cortlandt House Museum
242
Washington Square 117
Washington Crossing the Delaware
(Leutze) 196
Washington Heights Armory 353
Washington Mews 116, 263
Washington Square 117
concerts 343
Greenwich Village and SoHo walk
263
Washington Square Outdoor Art
Exhibit 52
Water Lilies (Monet) 10, 175
Water tanks 445
Water taxis 378
Waterfront walk 27071
Watteau, Antoine 198
Wave Hill 242
Weather 535
Webster Hall 346, 347
Weill, Kurt 231
Weinman, Adolph 61
Weisburg Religious Articles 314, 316
Welles, Orson 50
Wells, James N. 141
Wells, Joseph C. 116
West 10th Street 262
West, Mae 50, 183
West, Nathanael 50
West Broadway 106
The West End Lounge 348, 349
West Indian Carnival 54
West Side Market 351
West Side Supermarket 350
Westbury House, Old Westbury 385
Western Union 366, 367
Westin Hotel 144
Westminster Kennel Club Dog
Show 55
Westsider Bookshop 324, 325
Westsider Records 324, 325
Whalen, Grover 179
Wharton, Edith 50
Washington Square 117, 263
What Comes Around Goes Around
318, 319
Wheelchair access see Disabled
travelers
Whiskey Blue 11
Whiskey Blue Bar 308, 309
Whistler, James McNeill, Rotherhithe
255
White, E.B. 183
White, Stanford 31, 51
Church of the Ascension 116
Gramercy Park 130
Gramercy Park Hotel 131
Herald Square 136
Home Savings of America 97, 98
Judson Memorial Church 117,
263
Library at the Players 130
Madison Square Garden 128,
137
murder 115
Prospect Park 251
St. Bartholomews Church 178
statue of Admiral David Farragut
128
Washington Square 117
White Horse Tavern 308, 309
White Street 109
Whitman, Walt 91, 251, 268
Whitney, Gertrude Vanderbilt
MacDougal Alley 262
statue of 131
Washington Mews 116
Whitney Museum of American Art
202, 203
Whitney, Payne 266
Whitney Museum of American Art
13, 40, 2023
concerts 343
films 341
New Yorks Best: Museums 39
Whitney Museums Shop 315, 316
Whole Foods 328, 329
Wienman, Adolph 87
William G. Loew Mansion 187
William Poll 328, 329
Williams-Sonoma 330, 331
Willoughbys 330, 331
Wilson, Lanford 262
Windsor, Duke and Duchess of 171,
179
Wine shops 328, 329
Winter Antiques Show 55
Winter Garden 337, 343
Winter in New York 55
Winter Scene in Brooklyn (Guy) 253
Wisdom (Lawrie) 146
Wolfe, Thomas 269
Wollman Rink
Central Park tour 208
ice skating 352, 353
Woman Holding a Vase (Lger) 191
Woman Ironing (Picasso) 190
Woman with Yellow Hair (Picasso)
191
Wood, Grant, The Midnight Ride of
Paul Revere 199
Woodard & Greenstein American
Antiques 326, 327
Woodlawn Cemetery 243
Woollcott, Alexander 147, 217
Woolworth, Frank W. 93, 243
Woolworth Building 31, 45, 60, 93
Word 324, 325
GENERAL INDEX  437
Works Projects Administration
(WPA) 33
World Financial Center 12, 42,
56, 71
World music 345
World Trade Center Site 34, 56
architecture 45
National September 11 Memorial
and Museum 12, 13, 56, 66, 74
One World Trade Center (Freedom
Tower) 35, 45, 56
terrorist attack 35, 56, 74
World War II 33, 34
World Yacht, Inc. 379
Worlds Fair (1939) 33, 248
Worlds Fair (1964) 34, 248
Worth 197
Worth, General William J. 141
Worth & Worth 320, 321
Worth Monument 141
Wright, Frank Lloyd 51, 123, 191
Brooklyn Museum 255
Metropolitan Museum of Art 196
National Academy Museum 188
Solomon R. Guggenheim
Museum 17, 39, 186, 190
Wright, Wilbur 31
Writers 50
Wyatt, Greg 130
Peace Fountain 229
Wyeth, Andrew 129, 236
Christinas World 174
Wyeth, N.C. 129, 200
X
XL Nightclub 346, 347
Y
The Yale Club 314, 316
Yankee Stadium 243, 352, 353
Yellow Cow (Marc) 190
YMCA-West Side 280
Yoga 354
Yohji Yamamoto 318, 319
Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery 260
Yonkers Raceway 352, 353
York & Sawyer 70, 154, 156
Yorkville 47
Upper East Side walk 267
Yoshimura, Junzo 161
Young Woman with a Water Jug
(Vermeer) 198
Younghee Salon 322, 323
Youth hostels 280, 281
Yves St Laurent Rive Gauche 318, 319
Z
Zabars 304, 306, 328, 329
Zanetti 165
Zenger, John Peter 23
Ziegfeld, Florenz 51, 149, 221
Ziegfeld Follies 31
Zoos
Bronx Zoo 2467
Central Park Zoo 208, 211
438  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation
of this book.
Main Contributor
Eleanor Berman has lived in New York for around 40 years.
Her travel articles are widely published and she is the
author of Away for the Weekend: New York, a favorite since
1982. Her other books include Away for the Weekend guides
for the Mid-Atlantic, New England, and Northern California,
Travelling on Your Own and Reflections of Washington, DC.
Museum Contributors
Michelle Menendez, Lucy OBrien, Heidi Rosenau, Elyse
Topalian, Sally Williams.
Dorling Kindersley wishes to thank editors and researchers
at Websters International Publishers: Sandy Carr, Matthew
Barrell, Sara Harper, Miriam Lloyd, Ava-Lee Tanner,
Celia Woolfrey.
Additional Photography
Rebecca Carman, Rachel Feierman, Michelle Haimoff
Andrew Holigan, Edward Hueber, Eliot Kaufman, Karen
Kent, Dave King, Norman McGrath, Howard Millard,
Ian OLeary, Rough Guides/Nelson Hancock, Rough
Guides/Angus Oborn, Susannah Sayler, Paul Solomon,
Chuck Spang, Chris Stevens, Peter Wilson.
Additional Illustrations
Steve Gyapay, Arshad Khan, Kevin Jones, Dinwiddie
MacLaren, Janos Marffy, Chris D. Orr, Nick Shewring,
John Woodcock.
Cartography
Maps: Uma Bhattacharya, Andrew Heritage, Suresh Kumar,
James Mills-Hicks, Chez Picthall, John Plumer (Dorling
Kindersley Cartography), Kunal Singh. Advanced Illustration
(Cheshire), Contour Publishing (Derby), Europmap Ltd
(Berkshire). Street Finder maps: ERA-Maptec Ltd (Dublin)
adapted with permission from original survey and
mapping by Shobunsha (Japan).
Cartographic Research
Roger Bullen, Tony Chambers, Ruth Duxbury, Ailsa Heritage,
Jayne Parsons, Laura Porter, Donna Rispoli, Joan Russell,
Jill Tinsley, Andrew Thompson.
Design and Editorial
Managing Editor Douglas Amrine
Managing Art Editors Stephen Knowlden, Geoff Manders
Senior Editor Georgina Matthews
Series Design Consultant Peter Luff
Editorial Director David Lamb
Art Director Anne-Marie Bulat
Production Controller Hilary Stephens
Picture Research Susan Mennell, Sarah Moule
DTP Designer Andy Wilkinson
Revisions and Relaunch Team Keith Addison, Namrata
Adhwaryu, Umesh Aggarwal, Asad Ali, Emma Anacootee,
Lydia Baillie, Kate Berens, Eleanor Berman, Vandana Bhagra,
Subhashree Bharati, Shruti Bahl, Jon Paul Buchmeyer, Ron
Boudreau, Linda Cabasin, Rebecca Carman, Michelle Clark,
Sherry Collins, Carey Combe, Diana Craig, Maggie Crowley,
Guy Dimond, Vidushi Duggal, Nicola Erdpresser, Rhiannon
Furbear, Fay Franklin, Tom Fraser, Anna Freiberger,
Jo Gardner, Camilla Gersh, Alex Gray, Eric Grossman,
Michelle Haimoff, Marcus Hardy, Sasha Heseltine, Rose
Hudson, Pippa Hurst, Kim Inglis, Jaqueline Jackson, Stuart
James, Claire Jones, Bharti Karakoti, Priya Kukadia, Rakesh
Kumar Pal, Mathew Kurien, Maite Lantaron, Jude Ledger,
Jason Little, Shahid Mahmood, Nicola Malone, Alison
McGill, Susan Millership, Jane Middleton, George Nimmo,
Todd Obolsky, Helen Partington, Pollyanna Poulter, Leigh
Priest, Pamposh Raina, Nicki Rawson, Alice Reese, Marisa
Renzullo, Amir Reuveni, Ellen Root, Liz Rowe, Azeem
Siddiqui, Sands Publishing Solutions, Anas Scott, Shailesh
Sharma, Beverly Smart, Meredith Smith, AnneLise
Sorensen, Anna Streiffert, Clare Sullivan, Andrew Szudek,
Alka Thakur, Hollie Teague, Shawn Thomas, Nikky Twyman,
Conrad Van Dyk, Ajay Verma, Ros Walford, Catherine
Waring, Lucilla Watson, Ed Wright.
Special Assistance
Beyer Blinder Belle, John Beatty at the Cotton Club, Peter
Casey at the New York Public Library, Nicky Clifford, Linda
Corcoran at the Bronx Zoo, Audrey Manley at the Morgan
Library, Jane Fischer, Deborah Gaines at the New York
Convention and Visitors Bureau, Dawn Geigerich at the
Queens Museum of Art, Peggy Harrington at St. John
the Divine, Pamela Herrick at the Van Cortlandt House,
Marguerite Lavin at the Museum of the City of New York,
Robert Makla at the Friends of Central Park, Gary Miller at
the New York Stock Exchange, Laura Mogil at the American
Museum of Natural History, Fred Olsson at the Shubert
Organization, Dominique Palermo at the Police Academy
Museum, Royal Canadian Pancake House, Lydia Ruth and
Laura I. Fries at the Empire State Building, David Schwartz
at the American Museum of the Moving Image, Joy
Sienkiewicz at the South Street Seaport Museum, Barbara
Orlando at the Metropolitan Transit Authority, the staff
at the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, Msgr. Anthony
Dalla Valla at St. Patricks Cathedral.
Research Assistance
Christa Griffin, Bogdan Kaczorowski, Steve McClure,
Sabra Moore, Jeff Mulligan, Marc Svensson, Vicky Weiner,
Steven Weinstein.
Photographic Reference
Duncan Petersen Publishers Ltd.
Photography Permissions
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following
for their kind permission to photograph at their
establishments: American Craft Museum, American
Museum of Natural History, Aunt Lens Doll and Toy
Museum, Balduccis, Home Savings of America, Brooklyn
Childrens Museum, The Cloisters, Columbia University,
Eldridge Street Project, Federal Hall, Rockefeller Group,
Trump Tower.
Picture credits
a = above; b = below/bottom; c = center; f = far; l = left;
r = right; t = top.
Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of
the following copyright holders: ADAGP, Paris and DACS,
London 2011: April 1971July 1972, by Jean Dubuffet 69tc,

donated by the Norwegian Government, 1952 164tr,
190cla, 191cra, 191crb; ARS, NY and DACS, London
2011:187cr, 203crb; Jose de Creeft DACS, London/VAGA,
New York 2011: 55cl, 209cla; DACS, London 2011: 163crb,
165tc; Walter De Maria Broken Kilometer 1979 106cl;
Charging Bull Arturo Di Modica 1998 75tl; DK IMAGES:
Judith Miller/Wallis & Wallis, Sussex 60br; Kingdom of
Spain, Gaia Salvador Dali Foundation, DAC2S, London
2011: 176cla; Marisol Escobar/DACS, London/VAGA, New
York 2011: 57bc; Milton Hebald Romeo and Juliet 335cr.
Jasper Johns/DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2011: 203ca;
The Estate of Roy Lichtenstein/DACS, London 2011: 177tl,
202clb; Georg John Lober Hans Christian Andersen 1956,
208br; By permission of E Jan Nadelman: 203br;
Sucession Picasso/DACS, London 2011: 38tr, 117tl, 175cb,
176cr, 190clb, 191bl, 194cl; Printed by permission of the
Norman Rockwell Family Trust 1961 the Norman
Rockwell Family Trust: 165br; Licensed by The Andy
Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc/ARS, New York
and DACS, London 2011: 202cla; The Whitney Museum
of American Art: 39br, 202bl; Yu Yu Yang: Untitled, 1973, 59br.
The Publishers are grateful to the following museums,
companies and picture libraries for permission to
reproduce their photographs:
Ace Hotel: Lyle Thompson 283tr; Agence France Presse:
Doug Kanter 35tr; Alamy Images: AA World Travel Library
141c; Ambient Images Inc./Joseph A. Rosen 173c; Sandra
Baker 362tl; Patrick Batchelder 212; Peter Cavanagh 365cla;
Robert K. Chin 294t; Comstock Images 291c; Wendy
Connett 98ca, 118; Songquan Deng 3589; Eye
Ubiquitous/Jon Hicks 135cb; Kevin Foy 75tl; Jeff Greenberg
270cla; Bob Jones 113br; Richard Levine 373tc; Ian Marlow
365cl; Patti McConville 276-7; Ellen McKnight 370cla; PCL
291tl; Alex Segre 290cla; Lana Sundman 365tl; tbkmedia.de
332bc; Hugh Threlfall 364cla; Aldea Restaurant: 293br;
American Museum-Hayden Planetarium, NY: D. Finnin
220tc; American Museum of the Moving Image: Carson
Collection Bruce Polin 249tl; American Museum of
Natural History, NY: 41clb, 218ca; D. Finnin 218bl; Angel
Orensanz Center: Laszlo Regas 103cl; Aquarius, UK: 173tr;
The Asia Society, NY: 189cl; Attach Communications:
384crb; Avery Fisher Hall: N McGrath 1976 335tr; Avis
Budget Group: 377crb; The George Balanchine Trust:
Apollo, choreography by George Balanchine, photo by P
Kolnik 5bl; George Balanchines The Nutcracker, SM, photo
by P Kolnik 335br; The Bettmann Archive, NY: 20clb,
21cla/cr/bl, 22cl, 24cb/bl, 245cb, 27br, 29cr, 30cla/cra/crb,
34cla, 35tl, 47br, 51c, 567b, 73tl, 76cla, 81crb, 81br, 113bl,
179cl, 187br, 211tl, 214cl, 227c, 233tc, 243tr, 269tr;
Bettmann/UPI: 31cra/bc, 32br, 33br, 34clb/bc, 48cl, 50cla,
51bl, 74tl, 80clb, 155ca, 165cr, 268br, 269cr; Bloomingdales:
31crb; Boqueria: 294bc; British Film Institute: Roy
Export Company Establishment 177tr; The British Library,
London: 18; Brooklyn Historical Society: detail 91tl;
The Brooklyn Museum: 40bl, 41c, 2523 all, 2545 all;
Lewis Wick Hine, Climbing Into The Promised Land, 1908
38clb; Brown Brothers: 69br, 92tr, 108br. Camera Press:
32crb/bl, 35clb, 129crb; R Open 50tr; The Carlyle Hotel, NY:
281tr; Carnegie Hall: H. Grossman 335bl; J Allan Cash:
34br; Cathedral of St. John The Divine: Greg Wyatt Peace
Fountain 1985, 229tl; CBS Entertainment/Desilu too:
Vacation from Marriage 173br; Chelsea Lodge: 285bc;
Chelsea Piers: Fred George 35bl; Childrens Museum of
the Arts: 109cl; CityPASS: 361c; Colorific!: Colorific/Black
Star: 81cr; T. Cowell 225cr; R. Fraser 76tr; D. Moore 33bl;
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  439
Corbis: Alan Schein Photography 222; Bettmann 139cl,
275ca; Jacques M. Chenet 274tl; Randy Duchaine 101tl;
Kevin Fleming 273tl; Bob Krist 10cra; Todd Gipstein 77tl;
David Lehman: 140bl; Mascarucci 298tl; Gail Mooney 209bl,
271tr, 273br, 299b; Bill Ross 372tl; Michael Setboun 258,
270tr; Steven E. Sutton 53br; Ramin Talaie 37cra; VIEW/
Nathan Willock 94; Michael Yamashita 275cb; Bo Zaunders
368cl; Culver Pictures, Inc: (inset) 9, 21crb, 22clb, 23bl,
25tl/br, 28cl, 31cb, 50br, 51tr, 76cb, 77cr/cb, 78tl, 81bl, 85c,
123bl, 126tc, 129bl, 139cr, 149c, 151clb, 231tl/bc/crb,
261cb; Da Silvano: Noah Fecks 295tr; Daily Eagle: (detail)
91clb; The Dinex Group: Eric Laignel 301b; B Milne 300tl;
Dirt Candy: 292tl; Dollar Thrifty Automotive Group, Inc.:
377cra; Dreamstime.com: Alexpro9500 377br; Alexandre
Fagundes De Fagundes 375cb; Tatiana Morozova 380cl;
Rolf52 10bl; Esto: P Aaron 334clb; Mary Evans Picture
Library: Library of Congress 8-9, 26br, 89br, 108bl; The
Forbes Magazine Collection, NY: 116tl; Four Seasons
Hotel: Peter Vitale 281cr; Fraunces Tavern Museum, NY:
From the exhibit Come All You Gallant Heroes The World
of the Revolutionary Soldier December 4, 1991 to August
14, 1992: 24cla; Freemans: S Freihon 295bl; Copyright
The Frick Collection, NY: St Francis In The Desert by
Giovanni Bellini 39bl, 2045 all; Garrard The Crown
Jewellers: 147c; Getty Images: AFP/Stan Honda 384cla;
age fotostock 82, /Jos Fuste Raga 13br; AWL Images /
Gavin Hellier 645, /Jon Arnold 23; FilmMagic 234;
Mitchell Funk 333cb; Glow Images, Inc 2645; Michael
Grimm 378tl; The Image Bank/Siegfried Layda 36, / Riou
13tl; Lonely Planet Images/Angus Oborn 1; Neos Design
Cory Eastman 206; Photodisc/Thomas Northcut 142;
Photolibrary/Barry Winiker 12br, 154clb; Stone/Hiroyuki
Matsumoto 184; Vetta/S. Greg Panosian 66; Barry Winiker
147tl; Greenmarket Farmers Market: 363tr; The
Greenwich Hotel: 286bc; The Solomon R Guggenheim
Museum, NY: 19091 all; Robert Harding Picture Library:
Harpers New Monthly Magazine: 89tl; The Image Bank:
17clb, 91br; M. Melford 385tl; P. Miller 375tc; A. Satterwhite
77bc; Japan Society: Jack Vartoogian, NY 63bc, 160tc;
The Jewish Museum, NY: 186tr, 188c; The Kobal
Collection: 215tc; Lebrecht Music: Toby Wales 151tl;
The Leisure Pass Group: 361cla; The Lesbian, Gay,
Bisexual, & Transgender Community Center: 362c;
Frank Leslies Illustrated Newspaper: 88br, 89cra;
Library of Congress: 22bc, 25cla, 29bl/br; Library Hotel
Collection: 282bl; Leonardo Media Ltd: 278br/cla, 279br/
tl; The Lowell Hotel, NY: 281cl; Madison Square Garden:
137cr, 334tr; Magnum Photos: H. Cartier-Bresson 177c;
Erwitt 37cr; Jacques Marchais Center of Tibetan Art:
256bc; Masterfile UK: Gail Mooney 35br; Metro-North
Commuter Railroad: F. English 158tr/ca; The Metropolitan
Museum of Art, NY: Young Woman With A Waterjug by
Johannes Vermeer 37bl, Figure of a Hippopotamus,
faience, Egypt, 12th Dynasty 39crb, 192cla/clb/bc, 193 all,
194br/tr/c/bl/br, 195tl/tr, 1967 all, 1989 all, 238 all,
239ca/cr/bl/br, 240tl/tr, 241tr/c/b; Metropolitan Transit
Authority: 380cr, 384bl; MTA/Patrick Cashin all 381,
382tr/bl; Collection of The Morgan Library, NY: Blanche
of Castille and King Louis IX of France, author dictating to
a scribe, moralized Bible, c1230 38cr, 167bl, Song of Los
David A. Loggie (gift of Mrs Landon K. Thorne) 166cla,
Biblia Latina David A. Loggie 166clb, 166br, 167cb/tc/br;
Morris-Jumel Mansion, Inc NY: 21tl; A Rosario 25crb;
The Museum of the City of New York: 19b, 20cra,
2021, 21tr, 22ca, photo J. Parnell 23cb, 24cl, 26cla/clb,
27cb/crb/bc, 28cb, 29tc/crb/cb, 30bl, 31tr, 32tc/c,
33tc/c, 39tr (silver porringer), 89crb (Talfour);
440  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The Museum of Modern Art, NY: 174ca, 175cr/crb/cb/bl,
176cla/cr, 177tl/b; The Bather, c. 1885, Paul Czanne 176bc;
Lillie P. Bliss Collection 175cra; 2004 Photo Elizabeth
Felicella, architectural rendering Kohn Pedersen Fox
Associates, digital composite Robert Bowen 174tr; 2005
Timothy Hursley 170c, 174clb; The Goat by Pablo Picasso,
1950, 38tr; Portrait of the Postman Joseph Roulin by Vincent
van Gogh, 1889, 37ca; National Baseball Library,
Cooperstown, NY: 4tr, 27bl, 32cl; National Car Rental:
377cr; National Museum of The American Indian/
Smithsonian Institution: 20c; National Park Service: Ellis
Island Immigration Museum 80ca, 80cb; Statue of Liberty
National Monument 77clb; New York Botanic Garden: Tori
Butt 244bc, 245t/ca; Jason Green 244crb; Muriel
Weinerman 245bl; The New Yorker Magazine Inc: Cover
drawing by Rea Irvin, 1925, 1953, All rights reserved,
32bc; The New York Palace, NY: 29tr; New York Public
Library: Special Collection Office, Schomburg Center for
Research in Black Culture 33cla; Stokes Collection 25tr;
New York Stock Exchange: 73cra; NYC & Company: 360br,
Julienne Schaer, 2009 364br; Stefano Giovannini 361tr; One
If By Land, Two If by Sea: 296tl; Pampano: 299tr; The
Peninsula, NY: 281tc; Per Se: 302bl; Performing Arts
Library: Clive Barda 214bl; The Pickle Guys: Alan Kaufman
102bl; Photolibrary: Renaud Visage 166; Popperfoto:
33cra/cr, 73crb, 262cla; The Port Authority Of New York &
New Jersey: 371br; Collection of The Queens Museum of
Art: purchased with funds from the George and Mollie
Wolfe Worlds Fair Fund 33crb; Official souvenir, purchase
34cb; Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute: 889, 89bl; Rex
Features Ltd: Sipa-Press 54cr/br; 367; Courtesy of the
Rockefeller Center The Rockefeller Group, Inc: 33clb.
The St. Regis, NY: 280c; Scientific American: 18 May 1878
edition 88tr; November 9, 1878 edition 90bl; The Sherman
Group/NewYork water Taxi: 378br; Skidmore, Owings &
Merrill LLP, Chicago: 56cr; Skyscraper Museum: Robert
Polidori 57tl; 74cr; 270bl; The Society of Illustrators: 200tl;
South Street Seaport Museum: R.B. Merkel 85bl, 86bl;
Frank Spooner Pictures: Gamma 162clb; Liaison/Gamma/
Anderson 17tr, 163cla; Liaison/Levy/Halebian: 46tr, 49c;
sta travel group: 362cra; The Standard Hotel, New York:
Todd Eberle 284tl; Starwood Hotels and Resorts
Worldwide Inc.: 144cl; SuperStock: age fotostock 104, 132,
168; Ambient Images Inc. 146tl; Jean-Pierre Lescourret 110;
Robert Harding Picture Library 124; Tetra Images 152;
The Surrey: 287tr; Theater Development Fund: David
LeShay 332cl; Top of the Rock: 12tr; Turner Entertainment
Company: 139br. Union Square Hospitality Group:
Nathan Rawlinson 297br; United Nations, NY: 162cla,
163ca, 164tr/bc, 165tc/cla/br; Collection of The Whitney
Museum of American art, NY: 202cla/clb, 203t/ca,
purchase with funds from a public fundraising campaign
in May 1982. One half of the funds were contributed by
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Inc., Seymour M. Klein, President 78.34 203bc; gift of an
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Wildlife Conservation Society, Bronx Zoo: Julie Maher
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145tl/br, 158br, 159tl/cr, 289tr, 365tc.
Map Cover: Jason Hawkes Aerial Library.
Front Endpapers
Alamy Images: Patrick Batchelder Rcrb; Wendy Connett
Rfbr; Corbis: Alan Schein Photography Rcr; VIEW/Nathan
Willock Lclb; Getty Images: age fotostock Lfclb; Neos
Design Cory Eastman Rbr; Photodisc/Thomas Northcut
Ltc; Stone/Hiroyuki Matsumoto Rbc; Vetta/S. Greg Panosian
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