Issue 108 | April 2017 Complimentary copy

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 Editors note

Editors note
Is it just me or is it hard to believe that were
already in April? With the spring equinox just
behind us, were now a third of the way through
2017 and, really, what more reason do you need to
start planning a well-deserved escape? This month,
in the gorgeous newly designed pages of World
Traveller, weve got oodles of trip-spiration for you.

Kicking things off in India, were traversing

the subcontinents most colourful jewel, where
Managing director vibrant experiences are ripe for discovery. From the pink rooftops of Jaipur
Victoria Thatcher to the blue-tinged hues of Jodphur and the elegance of Indias most famed
monument the Taj Mahal Rajasthan is a rainbow state where you can
Editorial director savour every colour under the (very scorching Indian) sun.
John Thatcher
In Europe, were working hard to keep up with one of the worlds most
Group Commercial director vibrant cities in the capital of Spain. As historic as it is vivacious, siestas
David Wade are almost mandatory if you want to soak up the smorgasbord of colour and
character that spring to life once night falls here. Get geared up for a flurry
Editor of tapas, flamenco and late-night carousing in the throng that is Madrid.
Hayley Skirka
For a change of pace and a palette of ocean-inspired hues, in Mauritius
Art director were stepping away from the honeymooners to get to grips with the
Kerri Bennett islands beating heart. From sugar-cane plantations and natural-history
museums to a face-to-face meeting with a dodo, this archipelago country is
sub-Editor a wondrous tapestry that everyone can enjoy loved-up haze not necessary.
Emma Laurence
Inspired by the shades of spring, Im adding to my own wanderlust checklist
illustrations next week as I head off to Sri Lanka to get lost in everything the teardrop
Adam Avery nation has to offer. I cant wait to tell you all about it but, until then, enjoy
the issue and travel well.
sales Manager
Lisa Price Happy reading.
lisa@hotmediapublishing.com
+971 4 375 3608

Production Manager Hayley skirka

Muthu Kumar hayley@hotmediapublishing.com

Jun-Dec 2016 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit

Reproduction in whole or in part without

written permission from HOT Media Publishing
is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are
correct at time of press but may change. HOT
Media Publishing does not accept liability
for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

World Traveller 5
 Contents April 2017

15
CheCk in
23 spotliGHt oN MoDeNA
Traverse the town that created the

10 Be Here Now
Tackle rapids on Nepals mightiest river
or beeline to oh-so-cool California and
supercar, was home to Pavarotti and
is famed for its balsamic vinegar

the worlds biggest music festival, flower

garlands a must 24 CHefs top tABles
Mauritius-born, French-trained chef
Roudy Peterson takes us on a culinary

15 GloBetrotter
Idyllic abodes in Provence, designer
tour of his best-loved enclaves

hotels in New York and everything

else thats hot in the world of travel 27 esCApe
From the reinvention of sauna to beauty-
boosting juice and spiritual safari

19 My City
Famous for its Michelin-starred
retreats, embrace all things wellness

eateries, San Sebastin also offers

street food, surfing and narrow
alleyways just made for exploring
36
tHe loCAls GUiDe to CAiro
Tahrir Square, koshary and emerging
artists: Egypts capital is abuzz

World Traveller 7
Be here now CheCk In

Contents

50
Destinations WeekenDs

38 DisCover CUsCo
Machu Picchu, ancient ruins and Incan
towns this is Peru at its most magical
66 A loNG weekeND iN NiCosiA
Ancient walls and a passionate modern
scene unite in Cyprus divided capital

44 iNDiA
From fairy-tale palaces and colourful
festivals to vistas in every imaginable
68 48-HoUr fooDie
Vibrant cafs, hole-in-the-wall eats
and fine-dining fare nothing tastes
hue, enter the rainbow land of Rajasthan quite like Jordan

50 MAUritiUs
Not just for honeymooners, our man on
the ground gets to grips with the real
70 trAvel Notes
Explore alternative Abu Dhabi on
a kayaking journey through the
heart of Mauritius on a holiday for one capitals mangrove forests

56 MADriD
Gyrating with energy and pulsing
with passion, come alive in Madrid
72 stAyCAtioNs
Fancy a weekend getaway? Choose
from our hand-picked selection

8 World Traveller
Be here now CheCk In

10 World Traveller
Check in

Be here now
Karnali River, Nepal
Rising from the famous Mount Kailash in
Tibet, this is Nepals longest and mightiest
river, and it thunders through the Himalayan
landscape into many beautiful gorges and
canyons as it flows into the forests of west
Nepal before joining the Sharda River in India.
Travel through pristine jungle and keep an
eye out for deer, monkey, colourful birds and,
if youre really lucky, the highly elusive tiger.
Bordered by sandy beaches, its the perfect
watery playground for the whitewater-rafting
trip of a lifetime, and at this time of year the
waters are at their very best. Spend some
time in Kathmandu before you leave and you
could be lucky enough to get caught up in the
excitement of Bisket Jatra Nepali New Year
one of the countrys most stirring events
where anything from swaying bright chariots
to tongue-piercing ceremonies goes.

World Traveller 11
Be here now CheCk In

12 World Traveller
 CheCk In Be here now

Be here now
Coachella Valley,
California
After a quiet start to the year, things are
heating up in California with Coachella the
biggest music festival of the year happening
over two April weekends, closely followed
by one of the worlds biggest country-music
events, the Stagecoach Festival. Californias
spring flings are as much about donning
flower garlands or a cowboy hat and having
fun in the sunshine as they are about
seeing some of the biggest names in music.
Afterwards, a visit to retro Palm Springs,
the principal city of the Coachella Valley
and a former favourite with Elvis, Sinatra
and Marilyn Monroe, is a must. For nature
lovers, the Valley is bounded by the Santa Rosa
Mountains, the San Andreas Fault and the
Chocolate Mountains, ideal for a springtime
hike. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for
bighorn sheep, wildcats, bobcats, roadrunners
and even the occasional mountain lion.

World Traveller 13

From private-island retreats to eco escapes, heres whats hot in travel this month
IntroducIng:
the WhItby, new york
Manhattans newest resident will
leave you beautifully charmed
Upper Midtown Manhattan has a brand-
new address and one thats drawing the
elite. On West 56th Street at 5th Avenue,
The Whitby is Firmdale Hotels second
outing in the Big Apple.
Eighty-six gorgeously designed rooms
and suites have been brought to vision
by design director and hotel co-owner
Kit Kemp. In keeping with the groups
signature style, expect innovative use
of pattern, texture, colour and original
artworks across each of the abodes,
which are set over 16 storeys.
globetrotter
The star of the show has to be the Central Park and Broadway with some
Whitby Suite, commanding the entire top of the worlds leading museums right
floor, with spacious furnished terraces on your doorstep, not least the world-
facing uptown and downtown and a renowned MoMa. Retail therapy courtesy
gorgeous bathroom elegantly finished in of Bergdorf Goodman is also on hand
marble and granite thats stocked with beside this winning combination of New
Firmdales exclusive body collection Rik Yorker and English rose.
Rak.
When it comes to socialising, the
Whitby Bar is a richly colourful space
revolving around a 30ft pewter bar with
beautifully upholstered banquettes and
gorgeous grey floors. The drawing room is
a cosy spot defined by its feature fireplace
and oversized furniture: the perfect retreat
in the city that never sleeps.
When you do want to venture out,
youre just a few minutes walk from
World Traveller 15
pretty proVence
Soak up stunning landscapes in the picturesque South
of France, whether you go for a former royal abode or
tree-lined tranquillity in 18th-century surrounds

le doMaIne de palerMe VIlla hautVallon

What to expect?
A quintessential French
dream in the beautiful LIsle
sur la Sorgue, this sunflower-
lined mansion offers swaying
hammocks in gardens thick
What to expect?
This villa in Gordes is very
much a haven of tranquillity,
surrounded by two acres of
lush gardens. With a heated
outdoor pool, delicious French

V
with flowers, a gorgeous pool breakfasts and vintage cars
complete with traditional pool for hire, its the classic South
house and lovingly restored of France abode.

18th-century interiors.
Where?
This old town, ringed by the
River Sorgue, is known for its
pretty canals, water wheels
and narrow alleyways. Wander
around taking in Renaissance
mansions and the Medieval
Tour dArgent.
Must-do?
Channel the ghost of
author and former resident
Albert Camus, canoe along
waterways, hop on a bicycle
and dont miss the world-
famous LIsle antique market.
S
Where?
On the foothills of the Monts
of Vaucluse, facing the
Luberon, Gordes is one of
the most beautiful villages
in France and its labyrinth
of calades is sure to charm.
Must-do?
Book the Natural History Suite
with its exposed wooden
beams and open stonework
walls and youll never want
to leave. If you do, be sure to
visit the Muse de la Lavande
and dine at long-standing
Le Mas Tourteron.

culture InsIder green

all that jazz
Drawing performers from all over the
world, the 12th edition of the Carthage
Jazz Festival is on until 9 April in the
historic Tunisian city. Running over 10
evenings with more than 20 jazz artists
performing, see the likes of Jay-Jay
Johanson, Pink Martini and Moroccan star
Hindi Zahra. Away from the music, wonder
at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of
the Antonine Baths the largest Roman
baths outside Rome itself and Tunis Lake,
separating the city from central Tunis.
paraMount london
The UK is set to be the new go-to
destination for thrill-seekers with the
announcement of Paramount London.
Set to launch in 2021 at a cost of Dhs16
billion and covering an area the size of
the Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, it
will open near Dartford in Kent. Inspired
by Paramount films, BBC productions
and Aardman Animations, and featuring
rides for all the family, therell be a daily
Paramount and Friends Carnival plus
a host of bars, restaurants and cafs.
stylIshly sustaInable
The National Geographics annual World
Legacy Awards took place last month,
paying kudos to leaders in the world of
sustainable travel and tourism. Cayuga
Collection were named Earth Changers
for their commitment to change in every
last detail even their drinking straws are
made of bamboo while North Island
(pictured) in the Seychelles got a pat
on the back for its Noahs Ark initiative,
where guests bookings contribute to the
work of dedicated on-site biologists.

16 World Traveller

3
ways to
escape to your own private island
castaway in Fiji
For uber-exclusivity, Dolphin Island is a 14-
acre private retreat that sleeps just eight
guests in gorgeous Fijian wood and straw
lodges. A 20-minute boat ride from Viti
Levus north shoreline, it boasts awesome
diving and snorkelling, deliciously fresh
seafood dinners and the chance to kick
back in a hammock with a good book
The real castaway experience.
paradise at three of the
worlds most beautiful
Magical moments in the bahamas
Owned by superstar magician David
Copperfield, Musha Cays flagship villa
has a four-poster bed, wraparound
mahogany balcony with 360 views,
lush gardens and an outdoor fireplace
for romantic alfresco nights. Enjoy
the ultimate private picnic, sail on an
amphibious catamaran or experience
a drive-thru movie with a difference.
CheCk In Globetrotter
From a magicians
playground to
an african water
wonderland, discover
private-island resorts,
where natural beauty
abounds and doing
nothing is simply
everything
beneath the blue in tanzania
In its own marine reserves, Thanda Island
(pictured) is a retreat that was 10 years
in the making and it shows. The lush
five-bedroom villa comes with an indoor
aquarium, grand piano, cigar humidor and
glass rim-flow swimming pool, and the
surrounds are as impressive. Swim with
whale sharks, sail on an Arabian dhow or
enjoy some of the worlds greatest diving.
World Traveller 17
Globetrotter CheCk In

Food For
thought
Transport your taste buds
to the heart of the Alps as
Alpine fare demands attention
away from the slopes

bellanger, london
Championing Alpine tastes
in Londons Islington, this
spot is inspired by Alsatian
brasseries in belle-poque
Paris and serves up coq au
Riesling, baeckeoffe and
tartes flambes in style.

publique, dubai
Alpine love in the heart of
the desert. Feast on delicious
fondue, creamy raclette and
other aprs-ski classics at
this French Savoie bar and
tavern where the music is
as impressive as the eats.

goIng up In the World

le neptune, geneva
The mountains are the only
thing missing in this place
where Alpine creations are
crafted from the freshest
ingredients. Try the Le Saint
Pierre or tangy veal tartare,
paired with Genevan grape.
underwater adventures
Where? Montserrat
Why? The Caribbean islands volcanic
eruptions have had an unexpected effect
on its underwater landscape, creating
something of an accidental nature park.
What? With over 13 miles of coastline,
divers can discover everything from
colourful reef fish and sea plumes to
stony ledges, spiny lobsters and copper
sweepers. Dolphins, pipefish, eaglerays,
green turtles and nurse sharks also call
these waters home.
Where to stay? On a mostly villa-based
island, our pick is Gingerbread Hill. Book
the Heavenly Suite for 360 views of
rainforest, mountains and blue ocean.
Climb your private fairy-lit spiral staircase
to wonder at a star-studded night sky.

18 World Traveller

Renowned for its beaches, surf and plethora of Michelin-starred restaurants,
San Sebastian in the pretty Basque Country of Spain is full of hidden treasures
Marta YaNCI
the founder of Martas
Kitchen in Dubai gives
us the inside scoop on
her home city
S
an Sebastian, the capital city of
Spains pretty Gipuzkoa province,
is located in the north of the
country, very close to France, surrounded
by beautiful mountains, valleys and, of
course, the Cantabrian Sea.
The town first became a favourite with
the royal families of Europe during the
19th and 20th centuries, not only for its
beauty but also for the sheer diversity of
activities and leisure that it offered. To
this day, it continues to be a lively city
hosting many renowned events the
San Sebastian Film Festival, held every
September, is probably the most famous.
From a culinary perspective, the
province is known for having the biggest
number of Michelin restaurants in
correlation to its population, and people
travel from all over the world to taste our
My City
San SebaStian
chefs creations hilltop Arzak, seafood
haven Akelarre and innovative Mugarit
are just a handful of our lauded eateries.
I really believe that growing up in such a
place gave me a keen understanding of the
world of food and flavours, something that
grew even more with my travels around
the world and led me to work with food.
Despite the numerous acclaimed
restaurants, probably the most iconic
thing about San Sebastian is the street
life and the pintxos the Basque version
of tapas. Head to Parte Vieja (or the Old
Town) to delve into the real social centre
of San Sebastian, where the streets are
crammed full of places offering some of
the best pintxos in the city. Visit Txepetxa
to try the famous antxoas (sardines)
prepared in many different ways all
equally delicious. Or go to the award-
winning Zeruko; as soon as you walk
in and see the display on the counter,
youll know youre in culinary heaven.
If you have a sweet tooth, try La Vinas
cheesecake, considered by many to be
the best in the world.
CheCk In My city
Another interesting neighbourhood is
Gros. One of my favourite spots here is
Bergara, a place that has become a classic
with some truly amazing options, like
its zucchini and shrimp tartlet.
The town centre is a fantastic area
for shopping. San Sebastian has some
amazing boutiques and a very busy street
life; you can see street artists performing
on almost every corner and of course
pintxos can also be enjoyed in this part
of town. La Espiga is one of the most
traditional bars. Finally, along the beach
of Ondarreta renowned by surfers all
over the world youll find some simple
yet fantastic bars and cafs. Pop into
whichever one takes your fancy and then
enjoy a long walk as you try and fail
not to fall in love with San Sebastian.
Enjoy the beaches, too especially
La Concha, which was recently selected
as one of Europes best. Finally, dont
miss out on a visit to the old port, where
you can enjoy some truly amazing
seafood served in paper cones, the
good old-fashioned way.
World Traveller 19
Be here now CheCk In

Ask The experT

rob Arrow
Head of product at dnata
With over a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob
loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations.
His favourite country is Lebanon, his beloved city is Melbourne,
and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps

Q Do I need to drive in LA
to see the city properly?

A Yes. Id always suggest hiring a car

when travelling to Los Angeles for
a number of reasons, the main one being
that the metropolitan area of LA is so
very vast. The city was made for cars:
there are highways, expressways,
underpasses and overpasses in most
directions, and the key areas are built in
a large grid plan, so even if you dont know
the city well, its difficult to go wrong.
Sadly all these roads mean a lot of cars
and, depending on the time of day, traffic
can be pretty intense, which means you
need to time things right. For example,
a Sunday-morning drive from West
Hollywood to LAX can take less than 30
minutes but the same journey at 9am on
a Monday could take nearly two hours.
Although there are provisions for a new,
improved public transport system, at the
moment its just buses and a handful of The car is king in LA

metro lines, so the car is still king. Its no

surprise, then, that LAX has one of the
best car-rental terminals in the USA.
When youre in LA, you want the
freedom to explore and experience
iconic routes you cant not take a drive
down Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills or an
afternoon saunter around leafy Bel Air and
up into the Hollywood Hills. My all-time
favourite agenda is morning coffee in West
Hollywood, then shopping at the Beverly
Centre or The Grove. Then, before the
schools finish, head out to Santa Monica
and Newport for a lovely late-afternoon
stroll along the boardwalks. Of course, you
can spend longer on the coast at Venice
Beach or even take a few nights and drive
down to Santa Barbara, where you can
really relax. All in all, with the reasonable
cost of car rental and some really cool
rental options from Mustangs to Dodge
convertibles no trip to LA is complete
without a car to enjoy it.
Q We want to visit a Mediterranean
Island where do you recommend?
A When people think of islands in this
part of the world, its normally an
Indian Ocean nation or atoll that springs
to mind. However, the Mediterranean
also has some fantastic options. I often
get asked which is my favourite and,
for friends and fun times, I have to
recommend Mykonos and Santorini in
Greece. Not only are they visually stunning,
they boast amazing boutique hotels with
refreshing white cave-style rooms focusing
on the stunning views. Two properties
that really stand out are Mystique, with
its cliffside location and epic views, and
Vedama, close to the airport and main port
and just a few miles from Fira. A warning:
be sure to book well in advance as hotels
are small and travel options limited.
If youre planning to visit the Neapolitan
coast of Italy, there are a number of small
islands on which you can enjoy a night or
two, the most famous of which is Capri.
Easy to reach and with so much to do go
diving, stroll along steeped streets or shop
Italys most famous designers and really
enjoy the dolce vita. Head to Ana Capri
where its entirely peaceful. I recommend
staying at the Capri Palace its spacious,
very well located and offers a shuttle to
Capri town and the port.
For a short-break island experience, any
time of the year, with great food, amazing
history and the friendliest of people, Malta
is very accessible. The scenery changes
rapidly from St Julians Bay to the high-
walled town of Mdina, and youll find lots
of similarities with the Arabic culture. Stay
at the InterContinental Malta, where great
suites and both indoor and outdoor pools
make it the perfect year-round choice.
For all these trips and more, log on to dnatatravel.
com, visit one of our stores or call +971 800 dnata

20 World Traveller
 A New Best Friend
We go the extra mile to put
big smiles on little faces

Taj Dubai is an inspiring blend of contemporary style, authentic Indian craftsmanship

and legendary Taj service. The hotel features richly appointed accommodations,
club rooms serviced by intuitive Taj butlers, five restaurants and bars and a Jiva Spa.
Just minutes from the commercial and business districts and overlooking the
Burj Khalifa and its dancing fountains, the best of the city is right at your doorstep.

RATES STARTING FROM AED 900 PLUS TAXES PER NIGHT.

To reserve call +971 4 438 3100 | www.tajhotels.com
 AN ISLAND PARADISE OF
NATURAL EXCLUSIVITY IN DOHA.

Indulge in an exhilarating experience of a breathtaking island that feels a world

away. A paradise sanctuary with world class facilities and limitless activities
providing relaxation and adventure, wellness and pure indulgence.

Hideaway in true Arabian luxury with our pool villas and over water villas
setting the mood for romance and unforgettable holidays with family and
friends. Relax on our private 800 metres beach or master the waves in our surf
pool and enjoy a wide range of water sports. Leisure and entertainment also
spoil you for choice, from bowling, golf, tennis, to our VIP cinema at night.
Award winning dining options, evolving culinary temptations awaiting you. Not
to miss the unique Balance Wellness Centre and the award winning Anantara
Spa for total rejuvenation.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. anantara.com


What to see
Birthplace of a legend
Its not hard to spot the Museo Casa Enzo
Ferraria (musei.ferrari.com) its striking
yellow car-bonnet-inspired roof blares
out loudly against the Modena skyline.
A definite must-visit that tells the story
of Ferraris founding father as well as
showcasing some of the most beautiful
cars ever built.
historical wonders
The Piazza Grande is a UNESCO-certified
cultural treasure in the very centre of
Modena. Marvel at its white marble faade
gleaming under the Italian sunshine and
visit the 12th-century Corso Duomo for
architecture at its finest.
What to do
start your engines
If youre itching to get behind the wheel
of one of the legendary horse-prancing
machines, then head a few kilometres
outside of Modena to Maranello, the
home of the Ferrari factory. Pushstart
(pushstart.it) offers a whole rainbow of
shiny Ferraris waiting to transform your
boy- (or girl-) hood dreams into reality.
Test-drive options range from 10 to 120
minutes, depending on how much of
a fix you think youll need.
sweetly sour grapes
Famed the world over for its balsamic
vinegar, visit the small family-
run producer Acetaia di Giorgio
(acetaiadigiorgio.it), where Giorgio and
Giovanna will walk you through the
fermentation process, which sees vinegar
aged in wooden barrels for minimum
periods of 12 years. End proceedings with
a tasting session after which youll be
hard-pressed not to splurge on a bottle.
CheCk In Spotlight
Spotlight on Modena
Home of balsamic vinegar, Ferrari and the late Luciano
Pavarotti, its no wonder this pretty Italian starlet in northern
Italys Emilia-Romagna province is getting so much attention
Where to stay?
For historical elegance...
Stay at Hotel Canalgrande in the
centre of town. Step back in time at
this ancient palace that dates all the
way back to the 1500s. Originally a
monastery, this Palazzo Schedoni
smacks of elegance retaining much
of its 1788 character, when it was
Where to eat and drink turned into a mansion. Go for a room
osteria Francescana overlooking the garden for fantastic
Pippping Scandinavian double-winner vistas. canalgrandehotel.it
Noma to the title of Worlds Best
Restaurant last year, tranquil Osteria For charming tradition...
Francescana (osteriafrancescana.it), Former noble residence Hotel
down an unremarkable backstreet, is a Castello is surrounded by woodland
must-visit. Headed up by Italys best chef where you can spot pheasants and
Massimo Bottura, celebrate the Emilia- hares. The family-run hotel, within
Romagna region over traditional dishes walking distance of the town centre,
fused with an international outlook. is a great choice for a romantic
Dont miss the famous Five Ages of escape. hotelcastello-mo.it
Parmigiano Reggiano a taste discovery
of the regions esteemed cheese.
La Barraca
When in Italy, youve got to eat pizza,
right? For the best in town, head to quirky
La Barraca (ristorantelabaracca.com),
about 10 minutes outside of Bardi. On the
banks of the Ceno River, sit outside under
the vines and tuck into pizza margherita
like youve never tasted before.
World Traveller 23
Be here now CheCk In

Charcoal-grilled Black
Angus striploin at Catch

Chefs top tables

Join us on an expert-led culinary whirl around the world as chefs in the
Bras Le Suquet
Michel Bras is one of the true
gurus of French gastronomy
know give us their picks for eating out on a global scale and every chef, especially
those that train in France,
will hear his name crop up
again and again. Along with
his son Sebastian, he creates
food that you eat first with
your eyes. Using local herbs
and flowers from the rural
landscape of Aubrac, the pair
truly bring dishes to life.
Personally, I have to say that
Bras, more than any other
chef, inspired me in the art
of plating and his example
is something that Ive
followed since I first started
training to be a chef.
As head chef at Catch in FAvouRite DisH: Scallops
Abu Dhabi, Roudy Petersen rolled a la plancha with
surprises diners by taking cooked and raw cauliflower.
simple ingredients and
transforming them into
gourmet delights. Here,
his hot list takes us from
Paris to the heart of New
York, via a short stop in Michel Bras brings
Downtown Dubai dishes to life

24 World Traveller
 CheCk In Chef's top tables

Simple plating at
Eleven Madison Park

Eleven Madison Park

For me, this place is easily
the best restaurant in New
York and one of the best in
the world. Daniel Humm
is a great guy and this is
reflected in his humble
approach to the menu,
which focuses on locally
sourced ingredients and
seasonality. Since paring
back the tasting menu,
things have got even better.
Behind simply plated dishes,
Humm plays with flavour
and technique to deliver food
that constantly surprises.
Its simply unmissable
if youre visiting the city
and looking for a high-end
culinary experience.
FAvouRite DisH: Daniels
riff on Eggs Benedict is a
masterful and beautiful thing.

A masterful creation at
Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire get everything right, from the
Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire dining room and the service to
If cooking is art, then Pierre the food, which is perfection.
Gagnaire is the Picasso of the I love the chefs use of
culinary world. Everything technique, but its the original
he does is masterful, but his way they use flavour that
eponymous restaurant in the makes me want to go back
French capital is my favourite again and again. Before I tried
and fully deserves its three Zuma I didnt really work with
Michelin stars. The 15-course Japanese flavours, but now
tasting menu is gastronomy theyre one of the cornerstones
at its finest, pushing the of the menu at Catch, where
boundaries of flavour we merge flavours from
combinations and techniques. around the world.
Go with no expectations and FAvouRite DisH:
enjoy the ride so beautiful. It has to be the black cod.
FAvouRite DisH: The
menu changes regularly but
everything is without fault.

Zuma
Even if Zuma didnt command
such a prime location, it would
still be the best restaurant in Zumas
renowned
the city. The team there simply black cod

World Traveller 25
 Home of Luxury
in Riyadh

blends the Arabian values of hospitality and warmth

B U R J R A FA L H O T EL K EM P I N S K I
with Kempinski management expertise and our remarkable European flair to bring you
349 rooms and suites with inspired, tasteful and stylish modern Najdi architecture.
A peaceful oasis amidst a dynamic city, the hotel offers a wide range of outstanding services.
ANNIVERSARY
These begin with an exquisite variety of dining experiences in exceptional restaurants including
authentic Ottoman cuisine, and go on to include exclusively distinguished lounges, a barber
shop, fitness centre and two separate swimming pools and spa facilities for men and women.
For more information please call us on +966 11 511 7777 or email us at:
reservations.burjrafal@kempinski.com

Burj Rafal Hotel Kempinski

7647 King Fahad Road, Sahafa Unit 1, Riyadh 13315-2174, Saudi Arabia
Tel: +966 11 511 7777 Fax: +966 11 511 7778 kempinski.com/burjrafal
/BurjRafalHotelKempinski @BurjRafalHotel @BurjRafalHotelKempinski
 Escape
Get away from it all with our
monthly shot of wellness

Healing spirit
In the central wildlife sanctuary of Kenyas Laikipia, surrounded
by game-rich wooded savannahs and grasslands just north of
the equator, Segera Retreat is offering a safari like no other.
From 22 to 27 May, healing artists will guide visitors through a
week of yoga, meditation and live crystal sound baths alongside
a range of treatments and massages amid wondrous wildlife.
Discover the Wellbeing Spa, where home-made scrubs and
oils are blended with herbs from the garden and locally grown
ingredients. An on-site organic farm means deliciously ripe fare,
so you can feast on fresh juices, raw salads and tasty smoothies.

World Traveller 27
Escape ChECk In
riSE of thE
SPirit SPa
Embrace your inner
spirituality and let the
ancient threads of
learning capture your
imagination at this
Indian tribal retreat
Bursting with artisan touches
through sweeping open-
arched windows and tented
spas evoking a tribal Murghal
heritage, the language of the
leela Palace is history and
wonder on the beautiful banks
of Lake Pichola. Check in for a
restful retreat where you can
indulge under the guidance
of a yoga master, balancing
body and mind through a
combination of asanas, mudras
and pranayama. Try mediation
in the Guava Garden and
watch Rajasthani folk dancing
by the lakeside. Collaborating
with ESPA, treatments have
evolved from Ayurveda and
include Abhyanga massage
and traditional Indian healing.
28 World Traveller
Earth
SalutationS thE
Mark Earth Day Monthly fix
on 22 April, and Beauty food
honour the planet Promising everything from glowing
in style with skin to glossy hair, get your hands
ted Bakers on one of Detox Delights beauty
gorgeous shots for an instant fix to a multitude
new Fit To of sins. Born on the premise of
A T collection, inspired by flowing feeding the skin from the inside
blue lagoons. Take your pick from out, theyre 100% organic, natural,
crossover sports bras, statement cold-pressed, vegan and gluten-
leggings, and stylish gilets with free; game changer.
scalloped edges and technical fabrics, detox-delight.ae
then get ready to perform sun and earth
salutations to show your love for this
wonderful planet we all call home.
PicturE PErfEct
At Santorinis canaves oia
hotel, the authentic spa has
been entirely renovated from
two caves that date back to
the 17th century. The new
look comes with a perfect
infinity pool and dotted
cabanas with breathtaking
views. The ideal place to
soothe body and mind.

The hoT sTuff
From theatrical spa-master performances to jaw-dropping
sauna amphitheatres, sweating is about to get more spectacular
Sauna. Its a serious business and one
that no-one takes quite as seriously as
the Finnish. Birthplace of the ultimate
form of relaxation, its fitting that the
International Sauna Association is
headquartered in Helsinki, capital of a
nation of five million people and over
three million saunas thats around
one per household! Today, its not just
the Finns whose love for the hot stuff is
insatiable. In the pretty Alpine town of
Kiztbuhel, delegates of the 2016 Global
Wellness Summit had one hot topic on
their agenda: what the world can learn
from the traditions of sauna and how the
experience itself is being reimagined.
Look to Norway and the introduction
of Sauna Aufguss to see how sauna
is transforming into an event, with
sauna masters serving up some serious
entertainment to sweaty but happy
audiences. Found predominantly across
north and central Europe, Aufguss teams
post daily updates of whats playing and
sauna masters have become spa celebrities
known for their special performances,
like an ornate salt-peeling ceremony
at Aquapalace in the Czech Republic
SALT, Norway
currently leading the rankings in the
Aufgass World Championships (yes, thats
a thing) or an elaborate bowl mediation
from the team at Norways The Well.
Some of the acts even include full-blown
dance routines with costumes, music,
light and smoke shows.
Elsewhere, the world of sauna is
embracing huge hip new amphitheatre
venues where hundreds of people can
sit and sweat communally. Norways
SALT spa, on a remote beach on an island
in the Arctic Circle, launched during
the year-long Nordic Salt festival and
accommodates up to 100 people with
gorgeous views of the sea, music by
acclaimed Norwegian artist Biosphere
and a fully stocked bar.
Across the pond the buzz is all about
the introduction of ShapeHouse LAs
first urban sweat lodge. Located in
Larchmont, one of the citys most
charming neighbourhoods, this place
combines a creative social design with
ancient traditions and modern wellness.
As the 2,000-year-old traditions of
sauna are rewritten for the 21st century,
now is the time to get your sweat on.
CheCk In escape
sWeaT
iT ouT
Inspired by saunas
reinvention? Try it here
Four seasons spa, doha
The laconium room at the
Four seasons doha is like
a Finnish sauna, but with a
milder temperature so that you
can enjoy it for longer. With
benefits including a boost
in circulation, accelerated
elimination of metabolic waste
and mobilisation of your bodys
natural defences, youll never
want to leave. afterwards, relax
on heated laconium beds.
Livnordic spa by
raison deTre, dubai
For a little slice of nordic
sauna know-how in the middle
of the desert, this gorgeously
minimalist spot in dubais
famous twisting cayan Tower
is a must-visit. Try the nordic
bathing ritual for a complete
sauna experience. alternating
between hot and cold baths
and environments detoxes the
body, relaxes tired muscles and
boosts circulation. start in the
sauna, dip into the cold plunge,
retreat to the sauna, cool off
with cold water and repeat.
World Traveller 29
Salalahs
newest abode
Known for its tropical climate and
frankincense traditions, the beautiful
south Oman coast has a new
resident that is also the coasts
first five-star spa resort

N
estled between coconut plantations and a
beautiful white sandy beach bordering a
blue sea that glistens under the sun, the
Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is a
welcome oasis on the stunning south coast of Oman.
Inspired by the traditional villages of Dhofar, the
hotel reflects traditional Omani design with the main
whitewashed building representative of the fort that
would have traditionally housed the village sheikh.
Beside mammoth wooden doors, a frankincense-tree
logo designed in collaboration with Sultan Qaboos
Said al Said, ruler of Oman welcomes guests.
Dotted among 750 coconut palms lie 88 one- and
two-bedroom villas, each boasting traditional Omani-
style flat roofs. Throughout the resort, recessed walls
that would once have been used to store supplies are
adorned with local antiques and artwork, and a whole
host of water features, mimicking the ancient falaj
irrigation system, are present throughout.
Take your pick from dramatic views of the ocean
from the Premier Sea View Rooms or, if privacy is
your forte, opt for a Garden View Villa where youll be
completely secluded and can enjoy sunning yourself
on a private terrace complete with huge cabana and
private pool. For sunset views like no other, the Beach
View Villas are the ideal choice.
Once youre checked in, have a think about what
you want to see and do. If youre seeking adrenaline-
fuelled fun then try your hand at wadi bashing, hiking
or head out on a 4x4 exhibition with one of the local
experts to discover ancient villages. Get out on the
water for a dolphin-spotting trip or catch marlin,
tuna and saltfish with a fishing trip on the ocean. For

30 World Traveller
 Promotion

something more relaxing, enjoy paddleboarding or

kayaking along calm blue seas or join a sunset yoga
session on the beach. For history fans, the fascinating
Museum of The Frankincense Land and historic Al
Baleed archeological site is right next door.
If relaxation is key, head to the Anantara Spa,
where Thai roots are combined with Arabian
culture to create a selection of timeless revitalising
treatments. Embrace local customs by opting for the
frankincense ritual, where two therapists will utilise
the sacred Omani essence to transport you to a state
of pure relaxation. Otherwise, visit the huge Arabian
hammam, where traditional tellaks are on hand to
guide you through this age-old tradition.
Kids and teens will be in their element thanks to
dedicated clubs where daily activities include the
likes of beach camping, movie nights and treasure
hunts; the little ones even have their very own
miniature sunloungers.
When it comes to cuisine, options are excellent.
Try all-day dining at Sakalan for freshly baked
breakfasts, lavish lunches and delicious buffet
dinners. Al Mina is a Mediterranean-inspired terrace
restaurant where nightly entertainment by the
in-house band accompanies seriously tasty bites.
Meanwhile, Asian delights are on offer at Mekong.
For something truly special, try a Dining by Design
experience staff will create a table and seating out
of sand on the resorts pristine beach before escorting
you to dinner, via the light of flaming lanterns,
where youll then be served mouthwateringly fresh
seafood and Arabic delicacies to impress.
Discover all the beauty of Omans most precious
jewel with a stay at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by
Anantara. Find out more at salalah.anantara.com

World Traveller 31
 WORLD TRAVELLER
Reader
offers
A
Malaysia
Penang-Kuala lumPur
6 nights from USD735 per person
Includes: 3 nights at Holiday Inn
Penang, 3 nights at Melia Kuala
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Validity: Now until 30 Jun 2017
Take in the treasures of Penang and
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32 World Traveller
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the St. regiS SingaPore
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Discover the City of Lions from one
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Ah, the Seychelles. Blue skies,
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The City of Love is beautiful in
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World Traveller 33
dnata offers
WORLD TRAVELLER
dnatas fantastic four
Essential escapes
Whether a tropical retreat or a historic city stay, these
classic destinations should be on everyones visit list
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34 World Traveller
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316 6666
The locals guide to

Cairo
Chock-a-block with crowds, street sellers and bumper-to-
bumper traffic, we get under the skin of The Mother of the World

Street food abounds

in Cairo, from freshly
baked bread to koshary

Osman Mohammed
Foodie @cairoeats
Whats your go-to restaurant in Cairo?
Osmanly, inside the Kempinski Hotel on
the Nile, is gorgeous and a good place
to take visitors. They serve a blend of
Turkish and Egyptian foods, and the
friendly service and beautiful surrounds
off Hoda Shaarawi Street, down a few
steps youd hardly notice it. Its run by
just one woman, called Sumaya. Her food
tastes just like home cooking. Its a set
menu but you wont be disappointed.
The citys most stylish restaurant?
It has to be Don Quichotte. This is in
one of Cairos nicest areas and is really
of pasta, lentils and tomato sauce.
You can get it at loads of street stalls.
Tell us something only the locals know
If you dont have a car but want to
try Cairos drive-thru shisha scene,
taxi drivers are happy to take you.
Birdcage, Semiramis
InterContinental

usually impress everyone. Birdcage romantic. The food is inspired by French

in the Semiramis InterContinental is
another great spot and its where I take
visitors who want to try something non-
Arabic they do amazing Thai food.
Whats the citys best-kept foodie secret?
One of my favourites is Fashet Sumaya. Its
a tiny place, hidden away in an alleyway
cuisine and its always bustling make
sure you book ahead as its very popular.
And the must-try local food?
Theres loads of street food and its super
cheap. Try grilled corn, taamiya, pretzels,
fiteer and freshly baked bread. The most
iconic local dish is koshary a mixture

36 World Traveller
 CheCk In The locals guide

Ayman Ahmed
Private tour guide
tour-egypt.webgarden.com
Whats the most exciting cultural
aspect of the city?
There are so many things to see and you
dont want to miss out on anything, but
Ive found one thing thats always a hit
with visitors is the whirling dervish.
Is there anything visitors are surprised
by when it comes to culture in Cairo?
I think, perhaps, the Egyptian culture
of staying up very late and then getting
up very early to go to work takes some
getting used to, and the car horns. Cairo
drivers are expressive with their horn
and the rhythm of their honking dictates
what they mean. For example, four short
bursts followed by a longer one means
the same as look where youre going.
Its a whole other language.
The best area in Cairo for exploring? Formal Specters by
Mohammed Ezz Eldin
It has to be El Moez Street. Check out
the historic mosques and houses
dating back to 900AD. Afterwards, Aya Mostafa friendly attitude of the Egyptian people.
downtown Cairo is the place to head Artist You can see things like traditional
to explore cafs and teahouses. What would you recommend whirling dancers or crafts being
What about hidden gems? visitors do while in town? handmade in local markets, but theres
Not really hidden, but definitely a gem, Probably visit the Egyptian Museum. also an amazing contemporary art and
the Complex of Qalawun is a massive Not only is it ancient it was built music scene. Most people in Cairo have
place that was built by Sultan Al Nasir in 1891 its also located at Tahrir a totally liberal attitude and even though
Muhammed Ibn Qalawun in the 1280s. Square so has been embroiled in the they may want to talk to you a lot, they
Theres a mosque, mausoleum and political fabric of the country. Its huge will usually all be super friendly.
hospital in typical Mameluke architecture; and will take you a long time to discover Anything else you think we should know?
the mausoleum has been called one of the all its gifts, but make sure you see As clichd as you might think it is, you
most beautiful buildings in all of Cairo. Tutankhamuns treasures. Also wander should still go and see the pyramids the
the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar, a treasure icon of Cairo. Dont take one of the horse
trove of trinkets, crafts and tea, and tours to the top as they arent the safest
a great place to chat to locals. things, and youll get better pictures
Tell us a bit about the art scene wandering around on foot anyway.
in the city
Its flourishing, with a whole host of
contemporary galleries like 6Cairo
and the Karim Frances Contemporary
Gallery. Throughout the year there are
plenty of exhibitions to check out, too.
Are there any emerging local artists
we should keep an eye out for?
Yes, too many. Probably my favourite
at the moment is Mohamed Ezz Eldin,
a conceptual photographer who
captures truly beautiful shots.
Is there anything you find visitors
to Cairo are surprised by?
Dont miss the famous
whirling dancers
I think people are surprised by the Find treasures in the
Khan el-Khalili Bazaar
variety of things on offer and the

World Traveller 37
 DISCOVER Cusco
The former centre of the Inca world
and the closest city to the icon that is
Machu Picchu, we get an uninterrupted
view of the colourful towns, ancient
trails and unanswered mysteries of
Peru at its most magical

38 World Traveller
Destinations

City in the sky

The most important Inca monument in
existence, Machu Picchu is the highlight for
the majority of travellers to Peru. Standing
proudly in an exclusive club of must-see world
sights alongside the likes of the Taj Mahal
and the Colosseum, this enchanting citadel
is as breathtaking as it is mysterious. Set in
subtropical forests amid swirling clouds,
bouncy llamas, ancient ruins and rolling
green valleys, it throws up as many questions
as it does wonder. Was it a royal retreat, a
military stronghold, a shrine, or something
else entirely? And, fashioned by men without
mortar, how do the stones fit together so
tightly that not even a knifes blade can pass
between them? Even more bizarrely, how
did Spanish conquistadors not notice this
huge structure in their destruction of the
Inca settlements? Discover the mystery for
yourself on this world stage.

World Traveller 39
40 World Traveller
 destinations discover

inCa Living
Deep in the heart of the Sacred Valley just
outside Cusco, the town of Ollantaytambo is
a living, breathing Inca domain. Founded by
the Inca Pachacutec in the mid 15th century,
spend a day wandering down the same streets
and marvelling at the huge stones that form
the buildings that line them little has
changed since they were built. Practically tiny,
theres a central town square surrounded by
a few shops and lots of small roads that lead
up and off into the valley. A flurry of yellow
walls and red roofs depict local businesses,
houses and compounds, and the entire town
is a setting of skinny stone-walled roads. Take
some time out to have lunch or simply wander
dont miss the amazingly constructed canals
that bring water down from the valley to the
villagers in this gateway to Machu Picchu.

World Traveller 41
 saLt of the earth
On the slopes of Qaqawinay Mountain, at an
elevation of 3,380m in the Urumbada Valley,
around 46km from Cusco and cascading down
the hillside like uneven steps, the Salinas de
Maras are breathtaking. Fed by a small local
stream, this field of angular, interlocking
earthern evaporation pools was created in
the 1400s by the Incas. Each year, salt is
harvested from the patchwork of shallow
pools via a process of evaporation before the
salt crystals are scraped off the ground and
the process begins again. Today, about 3,000
pools are still harvested by the community
of local families who control the salt pans,
having passed them down from generation
to generation, and the salt is still bagged up,
packaged and sold at local markets.

42 World Traveller
the height of ruin
On a hill above Cusco city lies the ancient
Ruins of Sacsayhuaman, a ceremonial centre
and strategically placed fortress that dates to
the reign of the Incas. Historians claim that it
took almost a century and the work of around
20,000 men to build this site. The gigantic
stones pictured make up the outer walls;
each weighs several hundred tonnes and
was crafted from limestone excavated in the
town of Yucay, around 15km from the ruins.
Considering the Incas didnt have wheeled
transport, thats decidedly impressive. Open
daily from 7am to 5.30pm, the site is also
a good spot to begin to acclimatise to the
high altitudes of the Andes Mountains.

World Traveller 43
India destInatIons

The
colours
From the ever-changing hues of the Pink City to
leopard hunting in the verdant hills of Aravalli,
we traverse the vibrant tapestry of Indian icons
waiting to be discovered in Rajasthan

of Rajasthan words: Gill Charlton

44 World Traveller
destinations india

World Traveller 45
India destInatIons

T
he romance, artistry and sheer
magnificence of Indias cultural
heritage is encapsulated by the
Taj Mahal and the great forts
and palaces of Rajasthan. Jaipur and
Udaipur are stage sets that conjure up
storybook India, a land where fabulously
wealthy Hindu kings fought and loved
and indulged their fondness for pomp
and ceremony. Like Italian dukes, they
vied with each other to build bigger and
better, employing the finest artisans and
eye-wateringly expensive materials.
A journey to these remarkable sights
and cities is on almost every travellers
wish list. But it needs to be planned
with care and imagination. Not only is it
vital that your visit to the Taj Mahal isnt
marred by the crowds, but for a rewarding
holiday you also need to do more than
dash from one highlight to another.
To see Rajasthan in the most relaxing
and enjoyable way possible, Ive set out
a perfect itinerary based on travelling
in your own chauffeured car. This is
not as expensive an option as you might
think and is by far the most flexible and
comfortable way to travel. It also allows
you to move at a sensible pace to avoid
fort-and-temple fatigue and gives plenty of
opportunities to escape the tourist hordes.
In villages deep in the green Aravalli
Hills, life has barely changed in over
a thousand years. Potters, carpenters, Tick off a bucket-list
favourite watching the
cobblers and silversmiths still ply their sunrise over the Taj Mahal

trades and farmers keep fine herds of

Farming in the Aravalli Hills
cattle and goats. Visits to Chhatra Sagar
and Narlai, where you can engage with
traditional village life while staying
in comfortable heritage hotels, are a
must. There youll discover a modern
India that is vibrant, spiritual, outgoing
and perpetually fascinating.
Ive hand-picked some of the best
guides, too. Recently in Jaipur I walked out
with Vineet Sharma, a former banker who
loves his city and isnt interested in taking
you to be ripped off by local shopkeepers.
On his walk I learned more about the
practice of Hindu worship and its
competing sects than in all the books Ive
ever read. Along the way we sampled the
citys best street food and watched carvers
working on life-size statues in marble
from the same quarry that was used to

46 World Traveller

build the Taj Mahal. Its experiences like
these that youll remember long after the
gem-encrusted ceiling of a maharajahs
palace has faded from your memory.
Start your adventure by checking
Emperor Shah into The Claridges, a small four-star
hotel in the leafy heart of New Delhi.
Jehans ethereal Stretch your legs post-flight in the
neighbouring Lodi Gardens, landscaped
memorial to his around 16th-century royal cenotaphs.
beloved wife never Dancing with the Taj
fails to astonish. Dont rush Agra. Even with the new
expressway, the journey from Delhi
Guides are an takes four hours door to door. Stay at
The Trident for its superior service,
unnecessary pretty garden and excellent pastries.
The Taj Mahal is ridiculously crowded
distraction in the afternoons. Instead cross the
destination india
Yamuna River to Itmad-ud-Daulahs
tomb, a marble confection that predates
the Taj. Afterwards take a 90-minute
Mughal Heritage Walk through the
farming community of Kachhpura,
led by USAID-trained villagers. The
walk ends at the peaceful Mehtab Bagh
garden, which faces the Taj Mahal across
the river and is the perfect place to
watch the sun turn its marble pink.
The next morning, its time for the
Taj, which opens at dawn. Its worth
getting to the East Gate around half an
hour beforehand to be among the first
to enter. Emperor Shah Jehans ethereal
memorial to his beloved wife never fails
to astonish. Guides are an unnecessary
distraction. Instead sit on the lawn
and marvel at its peerless perfection.
World Traveller 47
India destInatIons
Wander the
magnificent City
Palace complex
Agra Fort has more architectural
treats for later in the day: a set of 16th-
century palaces, pleasure gardens and
audience halls from where the Mughals
ruled their empire. Shah Jehan spent
his last years in a marble prison here
with a framed view of the Taj Mahal.
Jaipurs pink stone palaces
Its a five-hour drive on a busy highway
from Agra to Jaipur, the state capital
of Rajasthan, but you get a break after
only an hour at Akbars model palace in
Fatehpur Sikri. It has astonishing verve
and delicacy for a work in red sandstone.
Dont leave without visiting the elegant
mosque and Sufi shrine across the way.
Another extraordinary site nearer Jaipur is
the 9th-century Chand Baori in Abhaneri,
one of the largest stepwells in India. Jaipur
has a plethora of good heritage hotels
but the Samode Haveli gets my vote for
its warm welcome, candlelit dining and
48 World Traveller
large, characterful rooms (the glass-
mosaic Shish Mahal suite is spectacular).
Awake early the next day for an
early-morning walk dipping into
neighbourhood temples and havelis and
meeting all kinds of artisans. Jaipur is
a rare planned city, laid out in 1727 on a
grid. At its heart is the City Palace, still
home to the former royal rulers. Its
worth the extra USD30 to tour part of
the maharajahs private quarters with a
personal guide. Employ him afterwards
to explain the Jantar Mantar, a garden of
giant astronomical instruments including
the worlds largest stone sundial.
Finish the day at Narain Niwas
Palace. Several of Jaipurs most stylish
shops Hot Pink, Anantaya and Kanota,
to name a few trade in its grounds
selling real pashminas, block prints
and artisan homewares. The convivial
Bar Palladio is here, too: open from
4pm for sundowners and supper.
Rural life and revered
lakes in Chhatra Sagar
After such a big dose of heritage, its time
to retreat to the countryside. Drop into
Pushkar for lunch. Its a mini Varanasi
with shrines and hippie hangouts set
around a revered lake. Two hours to the
west lies the inimitable Chhatra Sagar,
one of my top five places to stay in India.
A luxury tented camp set above a lake, its
impeccably run by brothers Harsh and
Nandi Singh, their wives and cousins,
who host campfire drinks and serve
refreshingly light Indian home cooking.
The morning village tour from Chhatra
Sagar is the best Ive done in India. Its
led by cousin Raj, who introduces you
to farmers, shepherds, potters and
schoolchildren living in this deeply
traditional community. In the afternoon,
binoculars are provided for a nature walk
around the lake, home to over 200 species
of bird. The night sky is magnificent here.
 destinations india

Leopards and
kingfishers of Narlai
Narlai is a small town deep in the
Aravalli Hills where leopards still roam
and Hindu priests blow conch shells to
announce prayers. Check into Rawla
Narlai, a 17th-century royal retreat
run by Gareema Gautam, a rare female
manager for whom nothing is too much
trouble. Climb the 700 steps to the top
of Elephant Hill for a big-sky sunset and
to work up an appetite for the hotels
magical lamplit stepwell dinner.
Join a dawn Jeep safari in search of
the leopards that prowl the granite
outcrops. Horse riding and guided
town tours are also offered but most
guests flop beside the pool before Vivid and vibrant,
colours abound in
heading out for a lakeside tea with the New Delhi markets

storks, spoonbills and kingfishers.

An Insta-worthy
moment on Lake

Udaipurs pretty palaces Picholas placid waters

Its a beautiful rural drive through

the Aravalli Range via the marble
Jain temples at Ranakpur to
Udaipur. Stay in a lake-facing room
at Jagat Niwas Palace, the best of the
haveli hotels; its rooftop bar and
restaurant overlook the Lake Palace.
Udaipur is the prettiest of Rajasthans
cities and small enough to explore on
foot. The rambling City Palace opens at
9.30am but wait an hour to avoid the tour-
group crush in the exquisitely decorated
smaller rooms. Theres a superb collection
of Indian miniature paintings near the
end of the tour. Have lunch at lakeside
Ambrai, one of the citys best restaurants
(in the grounds of Amet Haveli), before
taking a boat ride on Lake Pichola.
It's a beautiful rural drive through the
New Delhi and
the British Raj Aravalli Range via the marble Jain
Tourists are often taken to Old Delhi
for a whirl around Chandni Chowk in
temples at Ranakpur to Udaipur
a rickshaw and visits to the Red Fort
(similar to Agra Fort) and the Jama
Masjid (similar in style to Fatehpur Sikris clock back 400 years at the tomb of the
mosque). The crowds, the air quality and second Mughal emperor Humayun.
the horrendous traffic can make this a Finish the day with a spot of shopping
disappointing day. A spin around New at Khan Market, a favourite with expats:
Delhi is a more rewarding experience try Anoukhi for block-print tunics, Full
so take a morning flight back and get Circle for books and Good Earth for
ready to drive around the monuments clothing and homewares. Bed down
of New Delhi, designed by Sir Edwin for your final night at The Claridges.
Lutyens in the 1920s as the new capital Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971
of the British Raj, before turning the 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com

World Traveller 49
Mauritius destinations

50 World Traveller

Happiness
for one
Our newly single man on the ground braves Mauritius, world HQ of the
newlywed. Beyond the romantic resorts, he finds the islands real heart
Words: Neil McQuillian
V
ats of cloudy formaldehyde. Sickly blue
strip lighting. A certain musty tang
to the air. Mauritius king of the dead
had a creepy lair, all right. But where
was the little rascal? Padding around chamber
after chamber in vain, I peered this way and that,
Indiana Jones-style, as I pursued my fevered
mission through the diminutive Natural History
Museum, a custard-coloured colonial villa amid
palms in the thrumming island capital, Port Louis.
I passed displays of stuffed fish and shells.
I paused by wooden cabinets of tortoises and
butterflies. And I was about ready to chuck in the
towel when I turned a corner and finally, there
it was, as promised in my guidebook, with its
unmistakable beaky silhouette. In full morbid
majesty, for one eternity only: a dodo! A real-life,
dead-as-a-dodo dodo. OK, this dumpy dark lord
hadnt actually snuffed it. Nor was it real-life; the
exhibit was man-made. But at this moment, a lonely
museum geek on holiday in Mauritius, I wasnt
about to be picky. As I pressed my forehead against
the glass cabinet, a museum attendant shuffling
nervously, I gazed longingly into the feathery
lumps beady eye and felt a warm connection.
As I said, I was lonely. But how had it come
to this? Me, having a moment with extinctions
destinations Mauritius
poster bird in the tumbledown capital rather
than lounging on a paradise shore, scampering
into the blue Indian Ocean and drying off over
coconut drinks like a normal person, ie with my
other half, the two of us blissfully just married.
Thing is, Id had a better half. At least until the
month before the big Mauritius trip when, abruptly,
for our anniversary, shed dumped me, a calamity
that triggered a spiral of regression: days off work
watching Eighties snooker championships on
YouTube. Dinners of Findus Crispy Pancakes. Bon
Jovi. Such was my state after a couple of weeks,
I realised that solo or not, for survivals sake, Id
better go even if I only ended up rueful under
a parasol, the days disappearing groggily out to
sea, the setting sun calling time on my woes.
The last place I wanted to be was in a bright,
buzzy nightclub-with-rooms kind of hotel, but
luckily mine turned out to be The Residence, a
slender-silhouetted, tropical temple of peaceful
luxury on the soft-and-sandy east coast. Modelled
on Mauritian plantation houses, it was all airy
open-sidedness, the ocean breeze breathing in
and out of its teak, taupe and white interiors,
caressing the louvred shutters, eddying around
the tropical hardwood easy chairs. Palms on the
beach bowed to me. The glistening pool winked
World Traveller 51
Mauritius destinations
Elegant refinement on one of
Mauritius best beaches awaits
at The Residence terrace
at me. I like to think one or two of the staff did,
too. It was all colonial nostalgic and pleasingly
un-now. I so didnt need now right now.
Settling in amid the rattan and ceiling fans,
I crumpled into a snooze, lulled by the soft static
of the distant Indian Ocean. That evening passed
in blissful solitude, with lots of room service
and channel-surfing. And next morning, the
view from my room was promising: pale sand,
turquoise waters and little else. But no sooner
had I broken cover than they were upon me The
Honeymooners. Three Spanish couples Id spotted
coming off my flight blatant newlyweds, all hips
bumping, arms floppily coiling. Before long these
six sultry figures were everywhere, blocking the
spa reception in angelic white robes, or hogging
the stools in the bar and giggling conspiratorially.
Tucked in a discreet corner of the lounge, I quickly
52 World Traveller
learned to converse with the barman by way of John
McCririck-esque gesturing. The Spaniards and I had
an understanding, too. We ignored each other.
Still, after 72 hours, I was desperate for a day
away, beyond these loved-up shores. The barman
read my mind. Theres plenty more outside, he
said. Start at the capital, Port Louis, 40 minutes
drive away: its the real Mauritius. And please bring
me back some of those tasty dhal fritters: gteaux
piments. Next morning, I met my new-best-friend
driver, fiftysomething Sunil, and was out of there
before the honeymooners had even woken.
The Mauritian capital fizzed with life. In the
streets around Central Market, where Sunil set me
down, traders and shoppers swarmed like worker
bees. The very fabric of the city the masonry,
hoardings, rusting drainpipes seemed on the
cusp of collapse, just about holding it together, but
 destinations Mauritius

I looked up from a
lone lounger on the
sands, as pinprick
stars shone through
a milk-haze of cloud,
pondering the
meaning of life, love
and the loneliness
of existence

defiant with it. It sounded like me, and I liked to

think Id found an urban ally: partners in grime!
True, I was pining for my ex, but at the same time
for the first time in a month I felt invigorated.
She wouldnt have left her lounger for this
excursion in a million years. And shed have
frowned at the Natural History Museum, thus
depriving me of my great geeky session with the
dodo. Nor, had we been together, would we have
found the dinky nearby Blue Penny Museum, where
I got to gaze longingly upon the 19th-century Two
Penny Blue stamp one of the rarest in world.
Shed have loved the food, though. Back out in
the streets, women in voluminous robes sat like
melting Buddhas, bags of nuts spread for sale
around them. In the doorway of a flaking building,
a girl flicked something into bags that she twisted
and tied with well-versed wrists and fingers. It
was like approaching a campfire at the mouth
A coconut trader sells his of a cave as I stepped closer to find the gteaux
wares from his bicycle
piments Id kept an eye open for: little falafel-style
balls glistening with flecks of onion and chilli
embedded in them like glass shards. I bought three
for 20 cents and with apologies to my man at The
Residence wolfed them all down. I followed them
up, at a nearby stall, with dholl puri: a thick pancake
rolled around mushy split peas and a tomato
sauce not unlike spicy pizza topping. A sprinkling
of dried coconut within gave it a lovely crumbly
contrast, all for a slightly more expensive 30 cents.
And to finish? Something very sweet indeed
In weakening sun, the late-afternoon air
smelled of caramel on the drive back to the hotel
across the great central plateau. It was a sea of
towering sugar cane, a crop anciently tended
by African slaves, later by Indian workers. At
times the growth huddled so close to the road,

World Traveller 53
we might have been racing along a sky-roofed,
green-walled corridor. Now and then, chimneys
of volcanic stone marked out processing plants,
mostly disused. Theyre kept as monuments,
said Sunil, who once worked the fields with his
family. Pulling over, he showed old skills, whittling
to a soft nib a length of stalk wrenched from the
soil. As I sucked on it like an ice lolly, its nectar
was as sweet and flowing as watermelon juice.
The next day passed in a similarly sticky blur:
refreshments and solitude at The Residence,
watching lovers gliding across the pearly sands
or playing chess in fat wicker chairs below the
resorts teak rafters. That night, I looked up from
a lone lounger on the sands, as pinprick stars
shone through a milk-haze of cloud, pondering
the meaning of life, love and the loneliness of
existence. Eventually I came back to Earth and
decided to give thanks to the sugar-cane workers
by sampling some of the by-products of their
harvests. Between polishing glasses, my buddy,
the barman, brought me free gteaux piments,
which was nice of him given that he never got
so much as a whiff of his share from town.
It was good, but I was chuffed it wasnt a patch on
the citys version: real street food. Yep, I was ready to
go local again. Destination, next morning: Aapravasi
Ghat, a very special site on the western coast, which
Sunil couldnt wait to take me to. UNESCO-listed, it
was no Machu Picchu just a dry, barren, semi-
derelict compound. Yet almost 70% of Mauritians
proudly trace their ancestry to this place. In the
warm air I explored alone, my only soundtrack
the buzz of arrivals and departures drifting over
from nearby Port Louis bus station. As I wandered,
interpretation boards planted in the ground told
the amazing story of Aapravasi. The clues in the
translation: it means immigration depot in Hindi.
Here, the first indentured workers from India
disembarked in the mid-19th century, after the
Empire phased out slaves on the Mauritian sugar
plantations. Britains Great Experiment, the shift
to free labour, kick-started an economic revolution,
as millions from the colonies took to the seas for
opportunities abroad. I stood amid the ruins and
closed my eyes, trying to imagine the half-million
individuals who, between 1849 and 1923, clambered
up the ghats 14 dockside steps in search of a fresh
start. I felt a tingle, the ghosts of old arrivals milling
around me. Beginning a new life in Mauritius once
meant a lot more than having a honeymoon.
Id have happily begun a new life here
myself, I reflected, as my last days drifted into
one even if no right-minded honeymooner Sugar-cane crops create towering
green corridors along the islands roads
was ever going to want me as a BFF.

54 World Traveller
 destinations Mauritius

The imposing Morne Brabant is a

UNESCO World Heritage Site

Meeting the islands most

intriguing residents was
reserved for last, on magical
Ile aux Aigrettes, an islet just
off the southeastern coast
Port Louis cityscape with the Blue
Penny Museum in its centre

Whatever. The islands enduring appeal lay
beyond, in the physical beauty: the endless blonde
sands, the little breeze-block homes along winding,
sun-flickering ways, painted in pastel shades,
festooned with Day-Glo bougainvillea. But also in
the way such vivid cultural differences could cram
into an island the size of Tenerife. The last day,
Sunil followed the road southwest and, on a short
stretch, the places of worship went: temple, church,
temple, church. Near one of those churches, women
in saris washed clothes in a stream. Then, round
the corner, I came upon a Chinese grocers. When
we reached Morne Brabant, the southwesternmost
peninsula, I paid homage to escaped slaves who
hid on its stumpy mountain. Its still home to
many Mauritians of African descent today.
Meeting the islands most intriguing residents,
though, was reserved for last, on magical Ile aux
Aigrettes, an islet just off the southeastern coast.
Its managed by the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation,
which is turning it into a microcosm of the island
of some 400 years ago that is, pre-man, pre-
extinction, and definitely pre-honeymooners.
Here, invasive species are being eliminated,
endemic ones coaxed back to rude health: geckos
and gnarled giant tortoises and bois de rat, a wood
with the scent of putrid rodents when it rots.
Once again I was in geeky-schoolboy heaven.
I jumped at slinking skinks, grimaced at enormous
fruit bats wrapped in their wings like horror-movie
chrysalises, and learned how the dodo was wiped
from the big memory card in the sky when rats from
early sailors ships made off with their eggs. Most
of all, I was taken with Ile aux Aigrettes ungainly
rose-tinged pigeon, a rare, distant cousin of the
dodo. The one I encountered flapped around me
like a prototype, as if striving to stay airborne.
I watched the bird struggle over the whoosh
of the waves. I thought of what Id left behind in
England; what Id be going back to. And something
clicked. I felt the thrill of survival. A fresh start.
My progress was going to be about as smooth as
that pink pigeons, but from today, Id be stronger:
a pink phoenix from the ashes, no dodo from the
dumping. And so I returned to The Residence, to
meet and mingle, perhaps, for one special last night.
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666
or log on to dnatatravel.com

World Traveller 55
56 World Traveller

A mad
whirl
Behind its formal mask, Madrid has a deliciously wild
streak. Bring a big appetite and forget the alarm calls
for a spring fling thats equal parts lazy and crazy
Words: Dana Facaros
T
here are trips you plan for months, and
then there are the ones that start with an
email out of the blue from a friend you
havent seen in years that reads: Can
you come to Madrid next weekend? Ive booked an
apartment, but Jeremys mum broke her foot and he
has to stay and take care of her. Please say yes! It
took me about five minutes to see if there were any
available flights, before tapping back, Ill be there!
I had known Astrid only a little when we first
visited Madrid 15 years ago. She was a former
ballet dancer, and our boss had sent us to the city
for a book presentation. She was glamorous, but
I was the one able to muddle through in Spanish.
Since neither of us knew Madrid, wed tacked on
a weekend to explore. Astrid turned out to be one
of those endlessly enthusiastic people who make
you laugh and do things you normally wouldnt.
Maybe it would have been different had we gone
to some stodgy city, but being together in Madrid
where a good nights sleep is a rarity was so
fabulous that we always swore wed do it again.
And thanks to Jeremys mothers broken foot,
it was now actually happening. We hooked up on
landing and, as our taxi headed into town from
the airport, the moon was rising over the city, as
large, golden and round as a tortilla a good omen.
I always remember what fun we had years
ago, Astrid was saying. And, unlike Jeremy, you
dont care if I look in every shoe-shop window.
And since hes never been to Madrid, Id have
had to spend a whole day doing the Prado and
destinations Madrid
the Reina Sofa galleries, all the showcase stuff,
rather than getting under the citys skin. Oops!
We both grabbed the side straps as our taxi
slammed on the brakes, narrowly missing two
elderly nuns whod stepped into the street.
They waved merrily. Our driver waved back,
then shook his head. You know why this city
is crazy? he asked, as we wove back into the
traffic. Its because of its name mad, mad, mad
Madreeeeed! He sounded like a demented chicken.
Madreeeed, like New York, is a city where
you immediately feel at home. If youre in
Madrid, youre from Madrid, the saying
goes. This was brought home when the taxi
left us at an address in La Latina, one of the
citys castizo barrios, to pick up the key to our
lodgings. The elderly couple handing it over
insisted we come in for refreshments, then
bombarded us with questions. On our first
trip to Madrid Id had to do all the talking, but
this time Astrid babbled away like a native.
As we left, I said, Well, listen to you,
Seorita Patata! (the nickname Id given her
last time for ordering spicy patatas bravas
wherever we went). Spanish classes, she said,
with a wink. And this weekend youll see its
not the only thing Ive learned! Astrid had
become a Madrid pro right before my eyes.
We dropped our bags at the apartment, and
in five minutes had joined in the Friday-night
tapas crawl down La Latinas Calle Cava Baja.
It seemed half of Madrid was there, the young
World Traveller 57
Madrid destinations
Caption please
At Chocolatera San Gins, theyve been
crafting the sweet stuff since 1894
The April evening was mild and the irresistible scent
of fresh grilled prawns and squid, the laughter,
rapid-fire chat and music poured into the streets
and the not so young. The April evening was
mild and the irresistible scent of fresh grilled
prawns and squid, the laughter, rapid-fire chat
and music poured into the streets. The tapas had
improved since our last visit, too: after ordering
her patatas bravas, the now-fluent Astrid asked
locals for suggestions, leading us to creamy
risotto with boletus, foie gras and poached
egg at Casa Lucas (casalucas.es) so heavenly
we had it twice, sucking up every molecule.
We ended up in La Latinas funky, main
Plaza de la Cebada, sitting on the curb at
3am, talking politics with a group of earnest
university students, with plenty of Ay ay
ays! about the current state of the world.
58 World Traveller
Caption please
I was so tired I could have slept in a bin, so
we didnt get out the door before 11am the next
morning, stepping into a glorious blue day. As
we walked into the centre, Madrids radiant dry
light filled the Plaza Mayor, the majestic inside-
out palace of a square, highlighting each ornate
detail. Giggling toddlers chased each other around
the plazas stern equestrian statue of Philip III.
Astrid had put me in charge of the day, saying she
wanted to go to all the best places that we missed
15 years ago. At the top of the list was the Real
Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, a short
walk down stately Calle de Alcal. Most visitors
to Madrid fall prey to the Prado/Reina Sofa/
Thyssen-Bornemisza triangle of art indigestion

before they make it to the Real Academia
(realacademiabellasartessanfernando.com),
missing out on some fascinating, quirky paintings.
Of these, five Goyas steal the show: dark scenes
from early 19th-century Spain, among them The
Madhouse, The Trial Of The Inquisition (which wasnt
abolished until 1834) and my favourite, The Burial Of
The Sardine, on the surface a festive, masked dance,
but full of menace, foreboding and rising hysteria.
Unlike Goyas Black Paintings in the Prado, there
are no demons in these, which only makes them
more disturbing. We headed for comfort food at
Chocolatera San Gins (chocolateriasangines.com),
where theyve been making hot chocolate since
1894, along with churros crispy doughnut snakes
made to be dunked in cups of the thick, dark
chocolate. As staff bustled amid mirrors, marble
tables and photos of celebrities, the waiter raised
an eyebrow when Astrid ordered another round.
Her name is Seorita Patata, I explained,
upon which his brow rose even higher.
We were still laughing as we walked to the Buen
Retiro, Madrids regal park of Pleasant Retreat.
First-timers spend so much time queuing at the
citys museums they inevitably miss Madrids
destinations Madrid
lovely parks. Glistening fresh leaves fluttered on
the trees, flowerbeds glowed with technicolour
pizzazz, and Goya-esque clouds bubbled in the
heavens. Couples rowed around the lake under
the huge wedding-cake monument to Alfonso
XII, whose main claim to fame is that he
managed to do no harm before he died, age 27.
We needed a taxi to reach our last wanna-
see, the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida
(sanantoniodelaflorida.es). Few Madrid virgins
make it here, but the plain vanilla faade hides
Goyas most transcendent frescoes, the perfect
antidote to his darker works. Here, the great master
of magical atmospheres defies convention and
places humanity in the dome high above a tumble
of angels. And they, as Astrid pointed out, looked
just like Madrileos with wings. We refuelled on
squid-ring sandwiches, before heading back to the
apartment for a rest. I didnt think Id sleep, but
Astrid had to poke me awake at 10pm. She had big
plans; her enthusiasm level had shot up from tail-
wagging dog to small child on Christmas morning:
Ive been thinking about this night for weeks!
It was a 10-minute walk to Lavapis, the upbeat
multi-ethnic district next to La Latina. Astrid
Enjoy Madrids most tranquil
park from the sanctuary of the
lake at the heart of Buen Retiro
World Traveller 59
Madrid destinations

From Calle Cava Baji to Plaza de la Cebada,

Madrids tapas scene is anything but boring

60 World Traveller

If youre in Madrid, youre
from Madrid, the saying goes
had made dinner reservations at the small,
austere, but excellent Taberna Badila, where we
demolished generous portions of squid and slow-
cooked goat. After, we chatted in a bar, watching
the currents of people out after midnight.
Do you know what I loved most about Madrid
15 years ago? Astrid asked. Flamenco, I recalled,
without a pause. We had gone to see a touristy
tablao at the Corral de la Morera, Madrids
Carnegie Hall of flamenco, and Astrid had been
smitten. Ready for more?
She checked her map, and led the way
through Lavapis mesh of lanes to Candela
(flamencocandela.com), a grungy late-night
flamenco bar. On the tiny stage, before a weathered
painting of an Andalucan village, a guitarist,
drummer and singer performed. At 2am, early
by Madrid standards, it was still fairly empty.
But even so, the pounding percussive guitar,
drum and the cante jondo were powerful and
passionate, tragic and cathartic. We sipped
destinations Madrid
on drinks, feeling the rhythm in our blood, in
our bones. And then, as the night drew on and
people had a go at dancing, Astrid sprung her
next big surprise: she stood up, gracefully lifted
an arm, bent dramatically backwards and took
command of the floor. She had the attitude and
gestures down perfectly, her red shoes pounding
like a machine gun on the floor as she swirled.
When she sat down everyone applauded.
Along with Spanish classes, she exclaimed,
after she caught her breath, Ive been taking
flamenco lessons for years. Dawn wasnt far off
as we wove our way back to the flat. Astrid, who
had danced herself dizzy, was exhausted, but
elated, as the epiphany struck her. Remember
that artist we met on our first visit to Madrid?
Now I understand what he said. What was
that? I asked her, dredging my memory. Madrid
is killing me, but its a great way to die.
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4
316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com
World Traveller 61
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Weekends
Theres much you can do
in jusT a few days

Get away
In need of a weekend away? Then youve come to the
right place; our Weekends section packs in all the
essentials for a welcome escape. We hand-pick a selection
of luxury hotels in the GCC perfect for a night away, and
show you how to make the most of a long weekend in
beautiful Nicosia. If food is your passion, we also take
you on a whistle-stop gastronomic tour savouring all
the delights of Jordans capital. From here on in, your
weekends are all wrapped up

Pictured: Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara

World Traveller 65
A long weekend in

Nicosia
With absolutely every element you might need for
an idyllic weekend, we head to the largest city on
the island of Cyprus, where April brings short-haul
sunshine and hillsides bursting with colour
Of-the-moment The Market Company
is the place to head for gastropub eats.
Try the smoked salmon and beetroot salad
or go for the crusted seared tuna. Dining
here is mostly done alfresco be sure
to book ahead. If youre after something
more traditional, try Conte Demokritos
on Makedonitissas Avenue, where you
can tuck into great mezze accompanied
by live music every night of the week.

The old walled city of Nicosia, shaped

like a star, is made for wandering.
Wherever you are in the city, its easy
to orient yourself by finding the walls
and moving around bastion by bastion.
Be sure to visit Famagusta, the most
imposing of the three original gates,
and once the main entrance to the city.

If youve got the energy, round off an

evening with a visit to hot spot Platos.
From the outside it looks like an old house,
but inside it opens out like something
from Doctor Who into a huge venue with
Tuck into gastro bites atmospheric arches and walls plastered
at The Market Company
in memorabilia that pulsate with music.

66 World Traveller

If youre travelling with little ones then
be sure to head to Countryside Park.
Surrounded by flowers, trees and acres
of grass, the playgrounds are brightly
painted with slides, tunnels and climbing
frames, as well as vibrant picnic tables
that make perfect lunch spots. PonyLand
Adventure is the main attraction, where
kids can enjoy grooming, feeding and
riding friendly residential ponies.
Embrace the romance by hiring bicycles
and taking a loved-up ride for two.
Head to one of Nicosias largest gems: the
Athalassa National Park. Covering two
hectares of land, its full of bicycle tracks,
nature walks, picnic areas, tranquil
lakes and a botanical garden. Pack some
sandwiches and make an afternoon of it.
For the best vantage in all of Nicosia,
make a beeline for the Shacolas Tower.
On the 11th floor youll find the Ledra
Museum-Observatory, from which you can
pick out the Green Line dividing the city
in two. Although difficult to make out at
weekends nicosia
first, the profusion of Greek and Turkish Ask A locAl
flags soon give away its location. There are lots of cultural
sights worth seeing try the
Get your culture shot with a visit to the Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre,
Old Towns Leventis Municipal Museum. interestingly housed in a
This fascinating spot whisks visitors on converted power station. If
a journey through ancient Nicosias you plan on exploring the Old
history right up to modern times. Founder Town, get there early in the
AG Leventis was an interesting character day as things tend to close
and contributed a whole lot to the artistic early, or opt to bed down in
and cultural life of Cyprus. Having left his The Sandstone, a hidden gem
beloved island behind to go off and make of a hotel thats right in town.
his fortune, he then used it all to build Located within the Venetian
up the countrys galleries and museums. walls, about a two-minute
An informative visit is guaranteed. walk from the historic
Green Line, youll be handily
For an afternoon of shopping, try placed for sightseeing.
Laiki Geitonia in the Old Town. kirakos Garavelas
Here, youll find alleys filled with stores,
traditional restaurants, galleries and
boutiques nestled between traditional
houses typical of the colonial urban Did you know?
architecture of the island. For browsing Thanks to its
with a bohemian atmosphere, full of subtropical climes,
eastern Mediterranean promise, an summer in Cyprus lasts a
afternoon here is well spent. whopping eight months
from mid April right
Find souvenirs amid the through to November
winding alleys of Old Town
which means theres
plenty of scope for balmy
summertime visits.
Where to stAy
Located on one of the most
upmarket, leafy avenues in
Nicosia, the hilton cyprus is
within easy walking distance
of the mighty Venetian stone
walls that surround the old
quarter. The tone of this hotel
is immediately set with Gucci
and Cartier boutiques in the
foyer, while gorgeous views
of the city await you from the
private balconies of each of
the 294 rooms and suites.
World Traveller 67
48-hour foodie weekendS
48-hour
foodie
A whistle-stop tour of what and where
to eat from dusk till dawn
Illustration: Adam Avery
Amman
From traditional Jordanian fare to contemporary cafs,
this crossroads city caters to every palate imaginable.
Tuck into Arabian delights and Levantine dishes, or
indulge to your hearts content on Rainbow Street
day one
Breakfast
Tucked away in the heart of Ammans
somewhat crowded city centre is Hashem.
Start your day off with some tasty falafel
or a crispy manakish here. Despite its
truly casual setting and prices that will
make you wonder how the place turns
any profit, King Abdullah and Queen
Rania can often be spotted eating here
with their kids in tow.
Lunch
If you want to hang with the in-crowd,
then lunch at the super-cool Blue Fig
near Abdoun Circle is a must. Fuelled by
the idea of cultures coming together, this
place is open from early morning until the
small hours and is a fusion of food, drink,
cultural entertainment and a buzzing
atmosphere. Try the signature Figzzas.
dinner
Multi-award-wining restaurant Fakhr
el-Din is the place to go for dinner,
especially for a special occasion.
Occupying a renovated traditional-style
house in the citys Second Circle that
was previously home to Fawzi Al-Mulki
the first Prime Minister of Jordan
expect Lebanese food to remember.
68 World Traveller
day two
Breakfast
Get your second day off to a great start
with breakfast at Babiche Patisserie. This
tiny little place in Shmeisani has been
around since the Seventies, when people
first started visiting to feast on tasty
old-fashioned strawberry cake. Today,
its the place for a cup of coffee and
a stuffed croissant sandwich.
Lunch
On Rainbow Street, a destination in
itself, Al Quds sells hands-down the
best falafel youll ever taste, served on
deliciously fresh French baguettes. Its
the perfect lunchtime pit stop before an
afternoon spent wandering the stores,
bookshops and souvenir stalls flanked
by impressive 1920s-style villas.
dinner
Under a bright blue-canopied door,
Oberg is deep in the heart of old
Amman, where its lived for a very long
time. Having played host to countless
celebrities, tourists and friendly locals,
its a very traditional Arabic place where
the food is as tasty as it is plentiful. Go
in the evening on an empty stomach
and prepare to settle in for a while.
Regional delights
The national dish of Jordan is
Mansaf so make sure you get
a taste of this at some point
over the weekend. Tender
lamb in jameed a type of
dry yoghurt made into gravy
served with rice and topped
with pine nuts, its delicious.
Halim Ahmed, Oberg
hot Right now
For traditional houmous,
falafel and fava beans it has
to be Hashem. Rakwet Arab
is the ideal place for coffee,
shisha and light Arabic dishes,
while Pizza Roma Cafe has a
whole range of Arabic food,
live music and traditional
Dabke dancing.
Raymond Gordon,
Amman Pasha Hotel
World Traveller 69
70 World Traveller

Kayaking in
the mangroves
For a tranquil escape away from the city, Abu Dhabis
natural mangroves are the perfect remedy
Eastern Mangroves, Abu Dhabi
P
ulling off of the main highway
from Dubai to Abu Dhabi, the
inviting greenery of the capitals
natural wetlands come gradually
closer and its as if a sense of relaxation
starts to seep into our pores. Having left
Dubai early on a Friday afternoon and
whizzed west at 120 km/h, were seeking
a serious change of pace. Luckily, at
the beautiful mangrove forests on the
outskirts of the capital, where the water
runs smooth, bird calls float overhead
and theres not a 4x4 in sight, thats
exactly whats on offer.
Disembarking from our car, we make
our way down to the waters edge, where
our friendly kayaking instructor, Ali, is
waiting with a smile. Having never tried
the activity before, its obvious were a
little nervous, but some decidedly calm
instructions from Ali soon puts us at ease.
Climbing into a bright-yellow kayak,
life jacket firmly secured, I grasp the
long paddle, dipping it gingerly into the
bottle-green water beneath me. With a
push, Im suddenly off gently floating
downstream. It doesnt take long before
Ive got the hang of it; the sturdy size of
the kayaks actually makes it quite easy
to steer the vessel without wobbling
around too much. And with just five
minutes of paddling, were in the midst
of lush greenery the only reminder of
Words: Hayley Skirka
WEEKENDs Travel notes
civilisation being the skyscrapers of
Reem Island peeking above the horizon.
We navigate across the open water
before making our way into the channels
of the mangroves and Im smug enough
to note that by now I can really feel my
arms getting a serious workout. All
around, nature abounds. From herons
and their young to black crabs, grunt
fish and seabream, stay quiet and
youll be rewarded with a whole host
of wildlife spotting. Drifting through
the mangroves, listening to the gentle
ripple of water against paddle and
weaving between branches, this really
is an escape from it all.
After about an hour of paddling,
we stop at a sandy strip of land that
seems to appear as if from nowhere.
Clambering out of our kayaks for
a much-needed stretch, swim and
some cool refreshments, it feels a bit
like weve discovered a piece of Abu
Dhabi that no-one else knows about.
Back in the kayak and paddling towards
the shore, the sun is slowly slipping out
of the late-afternoon sky and turning
the horizon orange. With the call of birds
the only noise drifting through the dense
mangrove forests, its the perfect end to
our discovery of alternative Abu Dhabi
and a hidden gem were only too happy
to have stumbled upon.
World Traveller 71
Staycations
Sometimes you just need to get away from it all. Our
round-up of fantastic places to escape to across the GCC
will make sure youre all set for a weekend of stress-free
Taj
Dubai
taj.tajhotels.com/
en-in/taj-dubai
Location
DubAi
In a nutshell
Towering above Dubai in style,
this place is upscale elegance
with just an occasional nod to
its Indian heritage, great
restaurants, a huge pool and
awesome nightlife.
Selected suite
The Luxury Burj View Suites
are sophisticated havens of
blue and ivory with perfectly
complementary views of the
worlds tallest building.
Cuisine
Tuck into mouthwatering
curries at Bombay Brasserie,
Mediterranean bites and
sundowners at rooftop lounge
Treehouse or British classics
at The Eloquent Elephant.
72 World Traveller
Grand Millennium
Al Wahda
millenniumhotels.com/
alwahda
Location
Abu DHAbi
In a nutshell
Ensure youre right at the
heart of the action in this smart
city-centre abode thats also
connected to Al Wahda Mall
ideal for a spot of retail therapy.
Selected suite
The Junior Suite is our pick for
comfort at its very best. Enjoy
gorgeous city views in this
spacious 50 sq m room and
let the friendly staff take
care of your every need.
Cuisine
Tuck into comfort food at Porters
as you catch up on all the sporting
action or enjoy international and
continental specialities from
breakfast until dinner at
Al Wahda All Day Dining.
Downtown
Rotana
rotana.com/downtown-
rotana-hotel
Location
bAHrAin
In a nutshell
In the very heart of Manama,
within walking distance of the
famous souk and Bahrains World
Trade Centre, this 26-storey hotel
commands awesome city views.
Selected suite
Go for the Club Rotana Premium
for over 55 sq m of space and
gorgeous wraparound city views as
well as complimentary breakfast,
sundowners and access to the
private club lounge.
Cuisine
Teatro is one of Bahrains most
popular eateries tuck into
Asian and Italian delights or
make your way to Flavors on 2
for all-day dining options and live
cooking stations.
The
Chedi
ghmhotels.com/
en/muscat
Location
OmAn
In a nutshell
Overlooking the Hajar Mountains
and the gorgeous Gulf of Oman,
arriving at this palatial retreat is
like stepping into another world of
luxury. The perfect staycation.
Selected suite
Plump for the Seari Sea View
Room for oversized windows
overlooking the shimmering
water, and sophisticated
interiors with subtle
Omani details.
Cuisine
Dine at The Beach for
delicious seafood and epic
panoramas or go to The
Restaurant for fine dining
under elegantly curved Omani
arches and chandeliers.

Anantara Sir Bani
Yas Island
sir-bani-yas-island.
anantara.com
Location
Abu DHAbi
In a nutshell
There are three resorts in one on
this exotic wildlife-stuffed island,
but our pick is Al Sahel a haven
of eco-chic charm, private plunge
pools and beautifully rugged,
nature-infused landscapes.
Selected suite
The One Bedroom Anantara Pool
Villa is perfect for a romantic
getaway. A personal plunge pool
and mangrove-lagoon view are
coupled with bay windows and
gorgeous rustic-luxe design.
Cuisine
Our favourite restaurant is the
Savannah Grill & Lounge for
delicious pan-African delicacies
in the surrounds of the
whispering grasslands.
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
stregisabudhabi.com
Location
Abu DHAbi
In a nutshell
Splendid, sprawling, refined and elegant,
this is The St. Regis at its finest on the
capitals beautiful corniche.
Selected suite
We love the expansive Al Hosen Suite
on the 49th floor with wraparound sea
and city views, its just gorgeous.
Cuisine
Drinks at Azura, Italian at Villa Toscana, all-
day eats at The Terrace on the Corniche or pop
across the way to Catch and Asia De Cuba.
weekends staycations
Ask the concierge
Chief concierge Erwin Rachim gives us
some insider tips
Whats your favourite restaurant?
Villa Toscana. It serves truly traditional, honest Tuscan
food. Chef Stefano and the entire Villa Toscana family
focus on authentic ingredients and tastes, the menus
are always seasonal and they source unique produce.
The hotels standout feature?
It has to be our Abu Dhabi Suite the highest suspended
suite in the world. Located 220m above sea level, its
captivating from the moment you step inside.
Tell us a St. Regis secret
Our service is our greatest secret all guests experience
The St. Regis signature butler service but beyond that our
team is regularly praised for intuitive personalised service.
World Traveller 73
Abu Dhabi weekenDs
Spring fever
in Abu Dhabi
Big or small, theres something for everyone in the capital this month
Until 4 April
Mother of the Nation Festival
If youre quick you can catch the end of this family-
friendly spectacular happening at Abu Dhabi
Corniche. With a whole host of activities including
painting, bouncy castles and obstacle courses for
the kids, local traditional shops, jewellery making,
pop-up culture and much more besides, theres
truly something for the whole family.
10-23 April
Jiu-Jitsu World Final
Sporting fans should make their way to Zayed Sports
City this month for all the excitement of the ninth
Abu Dhabi World Professional Jiu-Jitsu Championship.
Hosted in the IPIC Arena, watch competitors from
all over the country battle one another during whats
sure to be a thrilling afternoon.
74 World Traveller
Until 6 April
Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge
One of the worlds most prestigious international
cross-country rallies, founded in 1991 by Emirati
motorsport legend Mohammed Ben Suleyman,
returns for its 18th edition this month. Expect five
days of motorsport spectacular, kicking off at the
Yas Marina Circuit and routing through the Liwa
desert and majestic Empty Quarter.
April 28
Olly Murs
British pop star Olly Murs is set to take the stage
at Yas Islands du Forum for one night only. Since
shooting to fame in the UKs The X Factor in 2009,
Olly has recorded four multi-platinum albums,
produced four number-one singles, and is renowned
for his uplifting pop lulls.
 TRAVEL TO TICK OFF
YOUR HOLIDAY HIT LIST
Places to go, things to see...

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Book at dnatatravel.com
call 800 DNATA (36282) or
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 Weekend offers
To book any of these offers, call +971 4 316 6666,
visit a dnata outlet or log on to dnatatravel.com

Clockwise from top right: The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC;

Palazzo Versace; Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa;
Al Wadi Desert, Ras Al Khaimah; City Centre Rotana Doha;
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain; Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels

one complimentary extra bed, Special offer: 40% discount

QATAR BAHRAIN complimentary access to Ritz- on room rate, 20% discount
Souq Waqif tHe ritz-Carlton,
Kids club and complimentary at the spa, plus two children
Boutique HotelS BaHrain
bicycles for the whole family under 12 stay and eat for free
2 nights from USD130 2 nights from USD345
Includes: Stay in an Al Rimal Includes: Stay in an
Special offer: 10% discount Special offer: 20% discount
Pool Villa with breakfast Executive Suite
on room rate, 15% discount on on room rate
Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017 Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017
F&B and 15% discount at the spa Includes: Stay in a Deluxe
Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily
tHe ritz-Carlton, BaB al SHamS DeSert
Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until 31 Aug 2017
DifC, DuBai reSort & SPa
Validity: Now until 14 May 2017
1 night from USD170 1 night starting from USD137
UAE Special offer: Receive a Special offer: 30% discount
City Centre rotana DoHa al WaDi DeSert, raS al
complimentary upgrade on room rate
2 nights from USD210 KHaimaH, a ritz-Carlton
to half board Includes: Stay in a Superior
Special offer: 15% discount Partner Hotel
Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room Room with breakfast
on room rate 1 night from USD245
Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017 Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017
Includes: Stay in a Classic Special offer: 10% discount on
Room with breakfast daily room rate, two children under
Palazzo VerSaCe DuBai
Validity: Now until 30 April 2017 12 stay and eat for free with
1 night from USD300

76 World Traveller
 WEEKENDs Recommended

World Travellers recommended

Beach stay
Just a short drive from Dubai, the Fairmont Ajman offers an amazing spot for a
family escape to white sandy beaches and beautiful turquoise waters

Where? Fairmont Ajman
The LOW-DOWN: Laid-back and family-
oriented, its the ideal weekend escape
from the city. The dcor pays homage
to Ajmans nautical past with playful
sculptures and carefully chosen colour
schemes and the vibe is decidedly chill.
The SCeNe: Perfect for families or
friends, theres a real sociable buzz about
this place. The huge infinity pool is the
focal point for most guests; expect kids
splashing happily while the adults enjoy
a few beverages in the swim-up bar.
The rOOM: The one-bedroom suite is a
whopping 77 sq m with a separate living,
dining and bedroom area, great if youre
staying the whole weekend and want that
bit of extra space. Its also located on the
corner of the hotel, meaning the views
of the Arabian Gulf are amazing.
TO DO: Being right on the water, theres
a whole host of water sports to enjoy,
with everything from wakeboarding to
jetskiing to the more peaceful kayaking
and paddleboarding. The Octopus kids
club is fantastic youll get no complaints
from the little ones and golfers will love
the proximity to Al Zorah Golf Club. The
spa and health club are also worth a visit.
TO eAT: Expect an array of international
eats and live-cooking stations at
Spectrum or for delicious Italian fare sure
to keep the whole family happy, head to
Gioia. For Turkish food accompanied by
belly-dancing, its got to be Kiyi.
Our fAvOuriTe pArT: We love the
friendly vibe of this hotel; the staff are
epic. And with so many activities and
dining options, youll want for nothing.
Find out more at fairmont.com/ajman

World Traveller 77
Recommended WEEKENDs

World Travellers recommended

cIty stay
Set on the banks of Abu Dhabis peaceful mangrove forests yet just
five minutes from downtown, this hotel has the best of both worlds

Where? Eastern Mangroves Hotel
& Spa by Anantara
The LOW-DOWN: Elegantly sprawling,
driving into this place feels like arriving at
some kind of understated Arabian palace
with beautiful vistas of the infinity pool
and beyond. Arched ceilings, polished
marble and all-over natural tones induce
a state of relaxation.
The SCeNe: This place is a pretty
good mix of families and couples and is
very popular with those visiting from
around the GCC.
The rOOM: The spacious Deluxe
Mangroves Balcony Room has a
minimalist design peppered with subtle
Arabian influences. The best part has to
be the gorgeous views over the mangroves,
but we cant help thinking a balcony we
could actually sit out on to enjoy said
views would be a big plus.
TO DO: Lounge by the infinity pool and
soak in the peaceful surrounds. Head out
on a kayaking trip or cruise downstream
on one of the popular doughnut boats,
keeping an eye out for a whole variety
of birds, fish and other wildlife. The spa
is a must-visit try the Scent of Arabia
experience for locally inspired wellness.
TO eAT: Ingredients is the gorgeous
all-day dining spot and does an excellent
family-friendly Friday brunch. Pachaylen
serves deliciously authentic Thai bites in
an intimate setting go for the delicious
beef panang. With towering vistas,
Impressions is the place for sundowners.
Our fAvOuriTe pArT: Being able to
go from midweek madness to restful
serenity without having to leave the city.
Find out more at abu-dhabi.anantara.com

78 World Traveller

Win!
A lagoon-inspired tropical
staycation for two at Anantara
The Palm Dubai Resort
I f a dose of exotic luxury is what youre
in need of then read on, as World
Traveller has teamed up with Anantara
The Palm Dubai Resort to offer you the
chance to win an escape to this tropical
retreat on the eastern crescent of Dubais
iconic Palm Jumeirah.
Two people can enjoy two fabulous
nights in a gorgeous Premier Lagoon View
Room surrounded by lush landscaped
gardens and enticing lagoon pools.
Relax and enjoy 47 sq m of beautifully
furnished rooms where huge windows
offer exceptional vistas out onto the
lagoons. After a day spent lounging on the
private beach, retreat to your room for a
refreshing rain shower or a peaceful soak
in your huge bathtub. Enjoy everything
that this Thai-inspired resort has to offer,
WEEKENDs Competition
including delicious Asian bites at Mekong,
crystal-clear swimming pools, a state-of-
the-art fitness centre and one of Dubais
best spas. For a staycation to remember,
simply answer the following question:
Whats the name of the Asian restaurant
at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort?
A) Thai Bites
B) Mekong
C) Asian Eats
Email your answer to easywin@
hotmediapublishing.com by 30 April 2017.
Prize includes a two-night stay for two
people. Subject to availability, excluding
blackout periods and public holidays. Prior
booking is required. For more information on
the resort, visit dubai-palm.anantara.com
World Traveller 79
Suite dreams
Suite
dreams
Our monthly finish with a
flourish, delving into a suite
whose character and style
are sure to set you apart
80 World Traveller
The Actors Penthouse at
Corinthia Hotel London
Hollywood legend Robert De Niro once
said, One of the things about acting is
it allows you to live other peoples lives
without having to pay the price. And
thats exactly the scenario playing out
at the Corinithia Hotel London on the
stage that is the Actors Penthouse.
This 294-room London property boasts
seven penthouses, all equally impressive
and occupying the top two floors of the
Victorian-era building in which the
hotel is located. Each of the penthouses
is themed and, for thespian lovers, the
Actors Penthouse is the obvious choice
the good news being that no audition is
required. Sumptuous and elegant, enter
the suite into an oak-panelled lobby where
a sweeping staircase and chandelier whisk
you through to a mammoth bedroom,
coveted dressing area and spacious
lounge. Cosy fireplaces add a sense of
warmth and the private balcony terrace
offers gorgeous views over Englands
bustling capital. A bespoke Ralph Lauren
lamp inspired by tripod theatre lighting
and two Holly Hunt hand-forged side
tables add an air of exclusivity.
With a personal 24-hour butler
service, you really can live the life of the
Hollywood elite and a personal shopper
is on hand if youre in search of the
perfect red-carpet number. A stay at this
London gem will surely bring a touch of
theatrical glamour to your life.
 26 APRIL - 2 MAY

The 27th Abu Dhabi International Book Fair offers visitors a rich programme of knowledge
extending the message of reading, art, literature, culture and science. 9AM - 10PM
FRIDAY: 4 - 10PM
Celebrate the literary culture of China, as we highlight its civilisation, authors and literary scholars.
Venture into the world of Ibn Arabi, our focus personality, and enjoy poetry recitals set to the tune ADNEC
of Arabic melodies and analyse his intellectual theses.

Official Airline Partner Official Media Partner Organised by

adbookfair.com / 800 555

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