Practical Hints

Challenges in the production of stretch yarn spinning

by Iftikhar Ahmed

The stretching property of stretch yarn is achieved through
elastane fiber. Elastane fiber is inducted into normal yarn with dif-
ference ways and means. The fabric made by such stretch yarn,
provides wear comfort as the molecular structure of stretch fiber
consists of hard and soft segments. The soft segment is formed
either by polyester or by polyther (polyurethane), and is responsi-
ble of high degree of stretchability of elastane fiber. The hard seg-
ment consists of polyureas, and is responsible for the good
thermal stability of elastane fiber.
The fabrics made with stretch yarn offer fitness awareness,
easy care, freedom of movement, durability, comfort, and wrinkle
resistance.
There are many stretch brands such as DORLSTANE by
BAYER SPANDEX by ACELAN and LYCRA by INVISTA. Lycra
is the most popular brand in Pakistan. There are different ways
and means to use elastane fiber to produce stretch yarn and ulti-
mately the stretch fabrics. The details about spun yarns, covered
yarns and twisted yarn are given as under:
1. Spun yarn

Siro yarn
Single Yarn [Core spun]
SIRO-SPUN
Care at spinning stage
(a) Friction
It is imperative that the friction, which may create micro
breaks in elastane fiber is to be avoided at the first spinning stage,
where the moving parts are draft rollers, these rollers must be fric-
tion free. Normally special coated rollers are used for this purpose.
Second friction point at spinning stage is ring traveler, if elastane
material is not properly cored in yarn, the portion of elastane fiber
being out of core, touches the high speed hot traveler, resulting in
break of elastane fiber. Such broken elastane is only visible at final
stage after weaving and finishing.
At winding stage, yarn contact points should always be
smooth. Winding drum should also be smooth, friction free and
cut free. Ceramic guides should be in good condition and need to
be replaced regularly. Package hardness should not exceed 60
shore hardness.
If the package is too tight, this may cause elasticity variation
along the yarn. Elastane fiber when stretched under tension can
be fixed with the passage of time.
(b) Temperature
Temperature is enemy of elastane fiber products. If the run-

ning points of the machines are overheated due to poor mainte-

CORE-SPUN

nance, it may cause damaging of elastane fiber.

In order to ensure that the travelers should not have high
temperature during spinning, the travelers speed should not
CORE ELASTANE exceed to 26 m/s. High temperature can result in melting of elas-
tane fiber. Even the storage of elastane fiber and elastane fiber
2. Covered yarn products should be at below 30 C.
(c) Draft limit

Staple yarns
Filament yarns
The recommended drafts for different decitex for the weaving
purpose are:
22 Decitex 2.80 Maximum Draft.
44 Decitex 3.50 Maximum Draft.
78 Decitex 3.90 Maximum Draft.
156 Decitex 4.00 Maximum Draft.
The elastane yarn has to bear the stress and strain in the sub-
Air-entangled filament Elastane sequent process of winding, weaving, finishing, so application of
draft beyond the limit at spinning stage may cause serious prob-
lems of broken elastane in the final product.
3. Twisted yarn (d) Twist for elastane yarn

Hamel
Two for one Optimum twist has to be applied in order to ensure better
pilling resistance and good tear strength. To achieve better weav-
HAMEL TWISTING ASSEMBLING TWISTING ing performance, if the high twist applied on elastane yarn, it may
block elastane fiber and may resist to its recovery characteristics.
The correct twist for elastane yarn will be the, addition of 0.30
twist multiplier to same count (NE) without elastane. For example
if T.M is 4.30 for plain yarn of Ne20, than T.M for the same count
with elastane fiber will be 4.60.

Care at weaving stage

Stretch yarn used in woven fabric as:
After this brief introduction, the article is meant to address the

Weft elastic fabrics (common is use).
problems of stretch yarn and their solutions, at different stages of
yarn, fabric and finished garments.
Warp elastic fabrics.

Bi-elastic fabrics (warp & weft, both elastic).

40 PTJ October 2007

 Practical Hints
Warping with stretch yarn:

Apply constant tension of 0.2gm/nominal dtex of final yarn.

For direct warping, beams to be mixed.

Install malt breaks in section warping machine.

Optimize control to avoid tension difference.

Avoid the shocks of stop.

Increase in warp length by the amount of desired elongation.
(a) Sizing

Polyvinyl alcohol stretch.

0.5% wax

Size temperature maximum 70 C.G

Sizing machine with precision tension control.

Avoid jumbo beams.
(b) Drawing-in and weaving

Needs to stabilize ends drawing-in.

Loom setting essentially the same as for Rigid fabrics.

Avoid variation of tension for warp ends.

For weft stretch fabric, it is recommended to weave and pick
from two or more supply packages to ensure even distribu-
tion of yarn.

Use correct Reed and Reed density to get desired elongation
and fabric width. An example is given below for the adjust-
ment of Reed and Reed density on loom. (Table 1)
Care at dyeing and finishing stage

If the dyeing on beam, elastane fabrics must be pre-shrunk
and possibly be set with hot air to ensure no width shrinkage
in the autoclave.

Material prone to creasing must be dyed in open-width,
preferably on the jig or on the beam.

Tension of the fabric should be sufficiently low, if dyeing on
jig machine.

Good quality fabric may obtained by avoiding unnecessary
stoppage that lead to the formation of water pocket.

The treatment time and temperature should be kept as mini-
mum as possible.

The fabric should be wound evenly on to the dye beams at
the end of the tenter frame at a constant tension.

In the autoclave the liquor should be circulated only from the
inside to the outside. A differential pressure of 0.1 ~ 0.2 bar
should be obtained by reducing the flow rate of the liquor
and the temperature of the liquor should be increased /
decreased gradually.

The elastane fabrics which are not prone to creasing can be
dyed in rope form winch beck, overflow or jet dyeing
machine with minimum tension.
Care in case of stretch compact yarn
(a) Centering of elastane fibre in core
Normally in Ring Spinning, at the entering point of elastane
fiber, the cotton fleece is wide enough to get centered the elas-
Table 1: Adjustment data on the loom
Non-elastic Stretchable in the weft (20%)
Number of warp threads 4995 4995
Read width 166.6 cm 166.6 x (1+20/100)= 200 cm
Read density 300 threads per 10 cm 250 threads per 10 cm
Weft density 250 threads per 10 cm 250 threads per 10 cm
tane fiber. At this entering point cotton fleece is about 4mm in
width depend on cotton count. While in Compact Spinning , at
this entering point, the cotton fleece get compacted, and instead
of fleece it is hardly in the shape of yarn, having about 1-2 mm
width. To enter elastane fiber in this width of 1-2 mm is difficult
task. If once entered, then keep it centered in to cotton for long
time, is another task. This need to have proper skill & continuous
watching of the process. If there is slightly slackness, and the elas-
tane fiber is out of cotton core, then there are bright chances of
following two problems.

Broken elastane fiber: if any part or any length of elastane
fiber is out of core, it will be cut by the traveler. Ultimately
there will be broken elastane fiber portion in the fabric. Such
fabric should be rejected.

Elastane fiber appearance on the surface of dyed fabric: If the
elastane fiber is not properly cored or come out of core at any
stage of process will remain undyed and ultimately the dyed
fabric will show shining contamination at the surface of
fabric.
(b) Effect of traveller temperature on elastane fiber:
As compact yarn is low hairiness yarn, as for as the yarn qual-
ity is concerned, low hairiness is the most wanted quality
parameter of yarn, but at other end during spinning process,
hairiness provides air in to traveler, when yarn process through
traveler. This air generation makes the traveler cooler and helps
ultimately the traveler to run at high speed, baring less tempera-
ture.
Incase of Compact Spinning, as
the hairiness is less in yarn, so tem-
perature at this point of yarn path
between traveler and ring cup is
much higher than that of Ring
Spinning. Passing of elastane yarn
through this high temperature zone
is critical. This may cause breakage
of elastane fiber even with in the
core.
Elastane fiber, which is in the
core, nevertheless, can be affected
by outside temperature, and may
cause broken or melting points along Effect of traveller temperature
the yarn, resulting in bad shaped on elastane fiber
fabric.
It is required here to reduce temperature at this zone of yarn
path (Between traveler and ring cup) and this is only possible by
reducing the spindle speed and traveler speed.
The increased production advantages normally taken by
Compact Spinning are not applicable for stretch yarn. Infact for
better quality and problem free stretch yarn, production speed of
Compact, should be lower than Conventional Ring Spinning.
Ed. note: The author Iftikhar Ahmed is Technical Director at Gadoon
Textile Mills Limited and further information can be contacted by
email:gtmfive@gadoon.com.
Stretchable in the warp (20%)
4995
166.6 cm
300 threads per 10 cm
250 : (1+20/100) = 208 threads/10 cm
PTJ October 2007 41