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I am confused with selecting motor specification, on Power rating. How can I calculate
the required Power to drive a weight of 140kg with a speed of 25km/h. I have tried to use
the formula that I found in the website ( http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed. ) .
The power rating that I got is about 179W. But on reading of the articles on (investigating
the human cycling performance), I found that the average people cycling power is less
than 100W.
I also have see the commercial e-bike specification, the commercial e-bike used 24V
250W DC motor to power their e-bike.
Please help me in this matter, I am very confused with this, if there is any formula or
calculation...please guide me ...I am appreciate your helps.
1. Have you checked that you are allowed by Law to ride an electric bike at 25Kph.
3. A fit human puts out about 1/2 Hp over a reasonable time - Peaking at 1 Hp for
short distances. 1 Hp = 746 watts. A bit more than your estimate. This will push you
along at about 20Kph'ish on the flat
4. Your going to want to match at least that in power to assist your peddle power. 20
your looking at 200 to 300 watts for your motor to give you the speed you need.
There are lots of variations on lightweight electric vehicles. Just because you say
bike doesn't necessary mean 2 wheel. Above about 12 Kph air drag becomes
significant and your going to need to either over come that or your going to need an
aerodynamic vehicle - Hence the links I directed you to.
With a modestly aerodynamic body and an all up weight with driver of about 200 Kg
our electric car would do 30 Mph 50 Kph. With no body on it it would top speed at
about 20 Kph and have a reduced range.
There aren't really any precise formulae. you can calculate drag etc but this isn't
going to help you without some data to match it against.
Your best bet is scale models - in a wind tunnel - Not hard to make. to assess the
effects of design on drag.
After that you may well have to take the plunge and just decide what your going to
use and see how it goes.
Something running at between 250 to 500 watts at 24 volts will most probably do for
your project -
Bear in mind what I said about how commercial suppliers rate their motors. you need
to know the voltage and current.
The cct breaker was 70 amps and from a standing start many cars that were over
geared would pop the breaker that's 24 volts at 70 amps = 1680 watts!
Later some cars fitted 100 amp breakers. I didn't see any of those pop but I did see a
number of burned out motors.
hen looking at electric bikes you may come across information on the watts that an
electric bike is rated for. Understanding how many watts you will need for an electric
bike can be confusing.
The following is guest post by Ed Benjamin about the common sizes of electric
motors found on electric bikes and some background on the what will suit your
electric bike riding needs the best. Ed Benjamin is the founder of the Light Electric
Vehicle Association (LEVA).
One of the key issues in defining an electric assisted bicycle as a bicycle is the
power of the motor. The general idea is that if the bike has a motor that is too
powerful then it is really a moped or motorcycle. So most laws that create and
define the category of electric bicycle worldwide have a limitation on the power of the
motor with the idea that the ebike should have similar speed and performance to a
normal bike.
That, by the way, is a pretty broad range of speed. Normal bikes can travel as fast as
30 MPH with a strong rider, and they can climb nearly any grade.
But in general, many nations have adopted laws that define a bike that uses a
relatively low powered motor, with a limited speed, as an electric bike with the
same privileges as a normal bicycle.
There are a lot of factors to consider in motor output choices for an electric bike.
Here are some of them:
1. Legality. Different jurisdictions have different laws about motor output for a
vehicle that can still be considered an electric bike. In the EU, Japan, China, and
other places, the power limit is 250 watts. In the USA it is 750 watts.
3. Do we use peak power? (The amount of power that the motor is capable of
producing under maximum effort for a short period before overheating) or do we use
continuous power
4. How much power can the battery support? There is a balance of cost, weight,
and energy storage in the decisions about the motor power, battery size, etc.
This is not a simple subject. But I will offer my advice:
Most 250 watt systems are satisfactory for pedelecs (where the rider is
pedaling and thus adding in his energy / effort).
For throttle controlled, or power on demand systems where the rider is not
pedaling 350 to 500 watt systems are a better choice.
750 watts seems attractive, but this requires a big battery and the
combination of cost and weight is not that attractive. This will get better, but at
this time, 500 watts may be a better choice in many cases.
Climbing hills on any of these will require the rider to add in some muscle power
but not a lot.
https://www.solar-cross.thekpv.com/
Electric Bike Technical Guide
The maximum flow of amps in a bike drive system can vary from 10 to 60 or more. A current of 60 amps
requires thick wiring and quite substantial switchgear.
Despite having a fairly low voltage, the Curry is the most powerful motor, followed by the Powabyke and
the Twist, with the Zap coming in last. Its impossible to calculate the power without knowing both the
number of amps and volts. Large machines, like cars, trains and trucks have their power measured in the
same way usually as kilowatts, or units of 1,000 watts. The old-fashioned horsepower unit is the
equivalent of about 750 watts.
I thought the legal limit for electric bikes was 250
Watts in the UK?
Well, yes and no. The legal limit refers to the continuous power output, whereas the figures above are for
absolute maximum power. Most motors can give maximum output for a minute or two, but theyd melt if
asked to do it all day just like a cyclist. Obviously, maximum power is more useful than continuous power
as a guide to the way a bike will climb a hill. Look at the spec of bikes on sale and you may see 200 watts,
250 watts or (illegally) 400 watts. These figures are only a rough guide to the true maximum power output.
If you expect the motor to do most of the work, especially in a hilly area, youll want a peak consumption of
600 watts or more. On the other hand, if you prefer gentle assistance, a peak of 200 watts may be enough.
For a moped, power will be measured in thousands of watts (kilowatts or kW) rather than watts. A
continuous rating of one kilowatt will just about keep up with city traffic, but two or three are more useful,
and motorcycles will obviously need a lot more to keep up with traffic out of town.
Lead/acid batteries are tested at the 20-Hour rate. This is the number of amps that can be continuously
drawn from the battery over a period of 20 hours. However, an electric bike will usually exhaust its battery
in an hour or two, and at this higher load, the battery will be much less efficient. So the figures for lead/acid
batteries tend to look optimistic.
On the other hand, Nickel-Cadmium (NiCd) batteries are rated at a 1-Hour discharge rate, so although the
stated capacity of a NiCd battery might only be half that of a lead/acid battery, performance on an electric
bike will be much the same. Nickel-Metal Hydride batteries (NiMH) are measured at the 5-Hour rate, so
their performance tends to be somewhere between the two.
The default capcity for an electric bike battery in 2015 is 360Wh (36 volts x 10 amp/hours), but capacities
are gradually increasing. In the past they have varied widely, from Powabykes 504 watt/hour giant (36
volts x 14 amp/hours) to the tiny 84 watt/hour pack on the early SRAM Sparc kit.
Its best to choose a package that will provide twice your normal daily mileage. Its difficult to guess the
mileage from the watt/hour capacity, because actual performance depends on the bike and motor
efficiency, battery type, road conditions, and your weight and level of fitness.
Direct Current motors have brushes to transfer power into the rotating bit. They are simple and reasonably
reliable, but now very rare, fitted to abut 5% of bikes. The vast majority (around 80%) of electric bikes now
use brushless DC motors. These are a bit more efficient, because they use electronics and sensors in the
motor to do the bit the mechanical brushes do, but the sensors are linked to the control box by tiny wires,
so theyre vulnerable to mechanical damage. A more recent development is the brushless, sensorless DC
motor, fitted to about 15% of bikes, but the number is gradually increasing. This uses clever electronics to
eliminate both the brushes and the sensors, so everything is simpler except the electronics, which are
fiendish. Sensorless BLDC will probably take over from BLDC, but dont rule out Direct Curent brushed
motors! They may have mechanical brushes, but theyre mercifully short of complex electronics.
Maximum assisted speed: Not less than 15mph (legal maximum), and preferably 18mph
Replacement battery price: As little as possible, but realistically, youll have to pay 300-400 for a
decent one. Whatever the price, INSIST on a two year guarantee
** Youll need to verify this for yourself manufacturers figures are universally dubious
A few other pointers: If you are expecting to tackle very steep hills (in excess of 17%, or 1 in 6), wed
recommend a Crank Drive motor. This type puts power through the rear gear system and can be fine-
tuned to suit almost any environment. Its the best system if you can afford it. The more common Hub
Motor effectively has only one gear, and although some are very powerful, it will prove less efficient in a
really hilly area. For most other purposes a hub motor is fine, but avoid Friction Drive unless you intend to
make light use of the bike. The roller and/or the tyre tend to wear out in a few hundred miles.