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TOP 10

o de


Torre dell' Basilica

Must-see palazzos & villas

Ri Orologio 10
l Pa la

H IE San Marco
zz o


Piazza Campanile
Ponte dei Sospiri
10 Best restaurants in each area
Most beautiful churches
(Bridge of Sighs) PONTE
San Marco Palazzo Ducale

(Doges Palace) DELLA PAGLIA


10 Great walks & itineraries


Colonne di Vallaresso-

i G ia
rd in
e tt i
i ne
t ti
S. Marco e di
S Teodoro
San Marco
10 Best hotels for every budget
10 Ways to explore hidden Venice
10 Most fun places for children
10 Best shops & markets
10 Great day trips from Venice
10 Insider tips for every visitor


TOP 10



Left Piazza San Marco Right Faade, Doges Palace

Venices Top 10
Basilica San Marco 8
Produced by Book Creation Services Ltd, London
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd Doges Palace 12
First American Edition, 2002
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Piazza San Marco 16
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York,
New York 10014
A Penguin Company Grand Canal 20
Copyright 2002, 2011
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
Accademia Galleries 24
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2005, 2007,
2009, 2011
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under Santa Maria Gloriosa
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any
dei Frari 26
means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,
or otherwise) without prior written permission of the
copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Rialto Market 28
Published in Great Britain by
Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available
Torcello 30
from the Library of Congress.
ISSN: 1479 344X
ISBN: 978-0-75666-940-9
Campo Santa Margherita 32
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the
editors opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Peggy Guggenheim
Floors are referred to throughout in Collection 34
accordance with Italian usage; ie the rst oor
is the oor above ground level.
Frequently Asked
Questions 36

Churches 38

Museums & Art Galleries 40

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling
Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain, WC2R 0RL, or email:

Cover: Front DK Images: bl; Photolibrary: Kurt Stier main image. Back DK Images: John Heseltine tc;
Neil Setcheld tl, tr. Spine DK Images: Neil Setcheld b.

Left Ballroom, Museo Correr Right Gondola traghetto ride

Palaces 42 Around Town

Artists & Architects 44 San Marco 72

Bridges 46 San Polo & Santa Croce 80

Hidden Venice 48 Dorsoduro 88

Writers and Venice 50 Cannaregio 94

Castello 100
Outstanding Venetians 52
The Northern Lagoon 108
Historic Conversions 54
The Southern Lagoon &
Osterie 56
Venice Lido 114
Places to Eat 58 Padua, Vicenza & Verona 122
Nightspots 60

Festivals & Events 62 Streetsmart

Venice for Children 64 Practical Information 132
Entertainment 66 Places to Stay 144
Shops 68 General Index 152

Left Mercerie shops Right Venice Carnival

TOP 10
Venice Highlights

Basilica San Marco
Doges Palace
Piazza San Marco
Grand Canal
Accademia Galleries
Santa Maria Gloriosa
dei Frari
Rialto Market
Campo Santa
Peggy Guggenheim
Top Ten of Everything
Venice Highlights
The uniquely romantic city of Venice was built entirely on water and has
managed to survive into the 21st century without cars. Narrow alleyways and
canals pass between sumptuous palaces and magnicent churches, colourful
Venices Top 10

neighbourhood markets and quiet backwaters, unchanged for centuries. Few

cities possess such an awesome line-up of sights for visitors.

San Marco ! $BOBM (S B OE F

Venices fairytale
cathedral is pure
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Elegance and
opulence sit side
by side in what
Napoleon named
the most
elegant drawing
room in Europe.
This magnicent
square is
adorned with
monuments that $ Grand Canal
The citys majestic watercourse
give testimony swarms with all manner of boats, while
to Venices its embankments boast a dazzling suc-
glorious past cession of palaces dating back as early
(see pp1619). as the 13th century (see pp2023).

) Peggy
Guggenheim ( Campo Santa
Collection A wonderful square,
Italys leading bustling with life day
museum for 20th- and night thanks to
century European its market stalls and

Venices Top 10
and American art, outdoor cafs. An
the collection is added bonus is its
housed in a one-oor many architectural
palace on the Grand styles (see pp323).
Canal (see pp345).
67 5

* Island of

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ferry ride over the
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peaceful, lush
&$66,$12 island, the site of
9HQLFH Venices original
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settlement (see
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& $ / / ( 0$ 5 = 2 
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is arguably still the best
market in the world (see
4BO.BSDP pp289).


% Accademia Galleries
An unsurpassed collection of
Venetian paintings, with master-
pieces by Titian, Bellini and ^ Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
A Gothic interior with grandiose works
Giorgione. A must, not only for art of art lies in store behind this churchs brick
lovers (see pp245). faade (see pp267).

For guided tours around Venice See p136 7

Basilica San Marco
This breathtaking Byzantine basilica, dominating Piazza San Marco (see
pp1619), was constructed in such ornate fashion for two reasons: as an
embodiment of the Venetian Republics power and as a fitting resting place for
Venices Top 10

St Mark. Serving as the Doges chapel, coronations, funerals and processions

were held here, gloriously framed by more than 4,000 sq m (43,000 sq ft) of
mosaics, eastern treasures and 500 columns dating from the 3rd century.
Top 10 Features
1 Western Faade
2 Atrium Mosaics
3 Flooring
4 Pala dOro
Basilica San Marco faade 5 Ascension Dome
6 Pentecost Dome
Visit the basilica at
7 Basilica Museum
dusk, when the rays
of the setting sun 8 Loggia dei Cavalli
beautifully light up 9 The Tetrarchs
the faade. 0 Treasury

Binoculars are a
great help for ! Western Faade
A marvellous succes-
examining mosaics sion of domes, columns,
high up on the walls. arches and spires,
interspersed with marble
Piazza San Marco statues, screens and glitter-
Map Q5 ing mosaics, greets tourists
041 270 83 11 in Piazza San Marco. The
www.basilica northernmost arch houses mosaics dating from the
Open: Basilica 13th century, which depict
AprSep: 9:45am5pm the basilica itself. Other
MonSat; OctMar: mosaics are 17th- and
9:45am4:30pm Mon 18th-century copies.
Sat, 24pm Sun & hols;
Museum, Treasury and
Loggia Cavalli:
same as Basilica.
Pala dOro: AprSep:
MonSat; OctMar:
9:45am5pm MonSat, Flooring
The paving is a mosaic
25pm Sun & public hols masterpiece of multi-
Admission: Basilica
free; Museum 3; @ Atrium Mosaics
These glorious mosaics
coloured stones on uneven
levels, evocative of the sea.
Pala dOro 1.50; (above) of precious gold-leaf Geometrical designs sit
Treasury 2 over glass tiles were alongside animal shapes.
No disabled access created in the Byzantine
beyond ground oor tradition by expert crafts-
Free guided visits men, and give detailed
book two days ahead on accounts of the Old Testa- ment. The 13th-century
Bookshop cupolas concentric circles
recount 24 episodes from
Genesis, including the
Creation and Adam and Eve.

8 For more Venice churches See pp389

Pala dOro
$ The dazzling jewel-
encrusted gold screen 4
was commissioned in
Constantinople in 976 5
but frequently added to 0

Venices Top 10
at later dates. It boasts 6 9
250 panels bearing
1,927 authentic gems 3
and cloisonn plaques.

1 2
Pentecost Dome
^ Probably the rst Basilica Floorplan
dome of the basilica to
be adorned with mosaics,
it is illustrated with the ( The Tetrarchs
The inspiration for
descent of the Holy these red porphyry rock
Ghost (above), seen as a gures from 4th-century
ame over the heads of Egypt is unknown. They
the 12 Apostles. may represent Saracens
who, scheming to make
& Basilica Museum
Inside the fascinating
off with treasure,
poisoned each other and
museum are the famed ended up as stone.
quartet of horses crafted
from bronze and covered
in gold. Booty from the
Fourth Crusade, these ) Treasury
The basilicas
triumphal Graeco-Roman glittering riches include
equine gures originally precious chalices of rock
graced the Hippodrome crystal enamelled by
in Constantinople. They medieval silver- and
have been restored to goldsmiths and reliqua-
their former glory. ries from Venices east-
ern conquests, including
parts of the True Cross.

Building the
Construction began on
the rst building in 829.
However, during a revolt
in 976, it was burned
down and dismantled.
The building we see
today, a Greek cross
layout surmounted by
* Loggia dei Cavalli
Replicas of the proud
ve domes, possibly
modelled on the Church
horses now in the of the Holy Apostles in
museum stand on this Constantinople, dates
wonderful balcony over- from 1071. The main
% Ascension Dome
The central dome
looking Piazza San Marco.
Visitors can see the
architect is depicted
over the central portal,
has a spectacular array of ancient lead gutter spouts, biting his ngers in
early 13th-century as well as clutches of frustration over a
mosaics, depicting the columns, whose varied building defect. The
New Testament. Christ in dimensions and decora- basilica became the city
Glory is shown above tive styles indicate their cathedral in 1807.
depictions of the Virtues. diverse origins.

For more on Venices San Marco district See pp729 9

Venices Top 10

Left Museum horses Centre left Wall-slabs Centre right Altar columns Right Byzantine screens

Basilica Architectural Features

! Galleries
The airy catwalks ^ Zen Chapel
The sumptuous
over the body of the 4 0 decoration in this
basilica reect the 7 small chapel was
eastern tradition of executed for the
segregation in worship 9 6 funeral of its
as they were exclu- 5 namesake, Cardinal
sively for women. They Zen, in 1521, in
are closed to visitors. recognition of his
gifts to the state.
Basilica Floorplan
@ Stone Wall-slabs
Brick-faced until the 1100s,
Closed to visitors.

the walls were then covered

with stone slabs from the East, & Iconostasis
This elaborate screen
sliced lengthways to produce a separates the worship area of
kaleidoscopic effect. the chancel from the nave. Its
eight columns are topped with

Stone Gothic-style statues of the Virgin
and the Apostles, sculpted by the
The exquisite semi-circular stone Delle Masegne brothers in 1394.
carvings over the central doorway
were executed between 123565
and still bear traces of their * Byzantine Pierced Screens
Inuenced by eastern archi-
original colour. tecture, delicate geometrical
designs and lattice-work stone

$ The Victory Bringer

This revered Byzantine icon
screens are featured on all three
faades, in the atrium and loggia.
is given pride of place in the
Madonna Nicopeia Chapel.
Rumoured to have ( Porta dei Fiori
This doorway on
been executed by St the northern faade
Luke, it was carried bears a 13th-century
into battle for its nativity scene
miraculous powers. surrounded by vines
and Moorish arches.

% Baptistry
Aglow with 14th-
) Altar Columns
century mosaic scenes Four nely carved
of the life of St John, alabaster and marble
this is also home to columns support a
the tomb of architect canopy at the altar,
Sansovino (see p45). beneath which lies
Closed to visitors. Porta dei Fiori the body of St Mark.

10 For more on Venice architects See p45

Venices Top 10
St Mark, Patron Saint
1 Milk of the Virgin Mary, of Venice
Basilica Treasury Although the well-loved saint of Byzantium, St Theodore,

Venices Top 10
(see p9) had been appointed protector of Venice by the
2 Blood of Christ, Basilica Byzantine emperor, the fledgling republic felt in need
Treasury of a saint of its own. In AD 828, two adroit Venetian
3 Nail from the True Cross, merchants filched the body of St Mark from a mona-
Chiesa di San Pantalon stery in Alexandria,
(see p39) ostensibly transporting
4 Thorn from Christs it under layers of pork
crown, Basilica Treasury fat to conceal it from
5 Body of St Mark, Muslim guards. The
Basilica San Marco welcome in Venice was
(see pp89) triumphant, and the
6 Body of St Lucy, Chiesa story was recounted in
di San Geremia countless paintings and
7 Three rocks used to mosaics. The remains,
stone St Stephen to however, were mislaid Stealing St Marks body
death, Basilica Treasury for years, until an arm
8 Skull of St John the miraculously broke through a column in 1094 (marked
Baptist, Basilica Treasury by a small cross, left of the Altar of the Sacrament) in
9 Leg of St George, answer to a prayer. St Mark now rests in peace
Basilica Treasury beneath the basilicas main altar. The ubiquitous winged
0 Foot of St Catherine of lion representing St Mark could be found throughout
Siena, Santi Giovanni e the republic as the trademark of Venetian dominion:
Paolo (see p102) it is often shown with two paws in the sea and two
on land, to symbolize the geography of Venice.

Medieval Venice, centred around Basilica San Marco

For more Venice churches See pp389 11

Doges Palace
A magnificent combination of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance architecture,
the Palazzo Ducale (Doges Palace) was the official residence of the 120 doges
who ruled Venice from 697 to 1797. A fortress-like structure stood here in the
Venices Top 10

9th century, to be replaced by the elegant Gothic version seen today, despite
a string of fires in the 1500s. Artists such as Titian, Tintoretto and Bellini vied
with each other to embellish the palace with painting and sculpture, not to
mention architects Antonio Rizzo and Pietro Lombardo, the latter responsible
for the ornate inner western faade.

Top 10 Features
1 Faade
2 Sala del Maggior Consiglio
3 Sala del Senato
4 Prisons
Doges Palace faade
5 Ponte dei Sospiri
A quiet modern caf 6 Scala dOro
in the former stables 7 Sala dello Scudo
on the ground oor 8 Armoury
serves snacks and
9 Porta della Carta
drinks on water level.
0 Doges Apartments
Dont miss the
Museo dellOpera
near the ticket ofce ! Faade
Elegant twin faades
as it houses many face the piazzetta and the
original 14th-century quayside. Pink-and-cream
faade capitals stonework and a loggia
those outside are stand above an arcade of
mostly 19th-century columns with 36 sculpted
copies. Istrian stone capitals.

Piazza San Marco

Map R5
041 271 59 11
Open 9am7pm daily
(NovMar: 9am5pm)
(last admission 60 min
before closing time);
closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec
Admission: 11
(includes admission to
Museo Correr
Secret Itineraries Tour:
041 520 90 70 (advance
Sala del Maggior Sala del Senato
The Senate members
booking essential at
palace or by phone);
@ Consiglio who met in this lavish hall
9:55am, 10:45am & The majestic Great Council (above) were nobles
11:35am daily in Chamber is lined with entrusted with debating
English; Admission: canvases depicting Vene- war, foreign affairs and trade
12.50 plus 2.50 tian victories and a cornice with the Doge. Time was
booking fee (includes frieze of 76 doges a black measured by two clocks
palace) curtain represents traitor one with a 24-hour face, the
Marin Falier (see p15). other with zodiac signs.

12 For more Venice palaces See pp423

$ Prisons
A fascinating maze Palace Guide
of cells is linked by Rooms are labelled with
corridors and stair- explanatory panels in
cases on both sides of English and Italian and are
the canal. Famous spread over three oors

Venices Top 10
inmate Casanova (see and several wings. Follow
p52) made a dramatic the red arrows. Highly
escape across the roof recommended is the Secret
in 1756. The new Itineraries Tour through
prisons were in use chambers which were once
until the 1940s and used for administrative
feature poignant grafti purposes and torture.
by internees.

& Sala dello Scudo

Enormous globes and painted
wall maps showing the known
world in 1762 make this room a
must. The map of Eastern Asia
traces Marco Polos
travels to China,
complete with
and the
Lands of the
People Eaters.

* Armoury
Fascinating, if spine-chilling,
collection of beautifully crafted
rearms, ceremonial weapons and
suits of armour from East and
West (below). Among the war
trophies is a Turkish standard
brought back from the
% Ponte dei Sospiri
One of the worlds most famous
Battle of Lepanto (1571).

bridges, the Bridge of Sighs is an

early 17th-century Baroque ( Porta

structure that crosses to the palace The main entrance to

prisons. It would reputedly cause the palace (now the
the condemned to sigh at their last visitors exit) has a
glimpse of sky and sea. beautifully sculpted
1438 portal by the
^ Scala
Bon family. It was
named the paper
The sump- door because edicts
tuous Golden were posted here.
Staircase, so-
called for its Classical
stucco decorations in ) Doges
24-carat gold-leaf The communicating
framing frescoes, led rooms of the Doges living
guests of honour to the quarters are furnished
second oor. Designed with rich brocades,
by Sansovino (see p45), impressive replaces,
it was later completed triumphal friezes, gilded
by Scarpagnino in 1559. ceilings and works of art.

Venices Top 10

Left Paradise, Tintoretto Centre Wellhead Right Giants Staircase

Doges Palace Art & Architecture

! Paradise
Possibly the worlds largest ^ Central Balcony
This magnicent early
oil painting (158890), by Jacopo 15th-century stone terrace, embel-
and Domenico Tintoretto, it is lished with columns, spires and
said to contain 800 figures (Sala a host of saints, opens off the
del Maggior Consiglio). Sala del Maggior Consiglio with a
breathtaking view of the lagoon.

@ Arcade Capital
Proclaimed the most beau-
& Giants Staircase
tiful in Europe by art critic John So-named for its two colos-
Ruskin, this eight-sided carved sal statues of Mars and Neptune,
capital on the southwest corner which were sculpted by Sanso-
shows the zodiac signs and vino in 1567 as symbols of
planets in imaginative detail. Venices power. Visiting digni-
taries would ascend the

The Triumph of
marble-lined stairs to
the palace.
Dominating the Sala
del Senato is Tinto-
rettos glorious work * Arco Foscari
This triumphal
of propaganda archway of pink-and-
(158084) showing cream stone layers
allegorical and leading to the Giants
mythological gures Staircase was com-
proffering fruits of missioned by Doge
the sea to Venice. Foscari in 1438.

$ Rape of
Europe ( Coronation
the Virgin

Veroneses allegori- The faded but

cal work (1580) in inspired remains of
the Anticollegio Guarientos fresco,
shows Europe sitting discovered beneath
on a bull, alias Jove, who The Triumph of Tintorettos Paradise, are
is nuzzling her foot. Venice, Tintoretto housed in a side room,
with panels explaining

% Drunkenness of Noah
A powerful sculpture from
the restoration techniques.

the early 1400s adorns the

faades southeast corner. Noah, )
Elaborate 16th-century well-
inebriated and half-naked before heads were constructed to drain
his sons, is intended to portray water from the gutters to the
the weakness of man. central courtyard.

14 For more Venetian artists and architects See pp445

Top 10 Events in
the Venetian
The Extent of the
Republic Venetian Republic
1 Venice founded on 25 In its earliest days, Venice was little more than a

Venices Top 10
April (St Marks Day, huddle of islands in the middle of a shallow marshy
AD 421) lagoon, settled by a band of refugees from the
2 First doge, Paoluccio Veneto region. Yet over the centuries it developed into
Anafesto, elected a mighty republic reaching south to the Mediter-
(697) ranean and north to the Alps, based
3 St Marks body on the concept of trade. Salt was
brought to stored in massive warehouses,
Venice (828) there were dealings in exotic spices
4 Ruthless siege of and wondrous fabrics from the East,
Constantinople crusades were organized and tted
(present-day Istanbul) out here and relics procured. Its
during Fourth Crusade main population probably never
under Doge Enrico exceeded 160,000, however well
Dandolo (1204) beyond the walled port towns
5 Venice loses 60 per strung down the Dalmatian coast
cent of its population were far-ung outposts such as
to the Black Crete and Cyprus. These
Death (1348) A doctor during dominions protected key
6 Doge Marin Falier the Black Death passages in commerce with the
decapitated for Arabic countries. Westward across
conspiracy (1355) the Po plain, Venices inuence took in Treviso, Vicenza
7 Genoese defeated at and Verona, extending all the way to Bergamo on the
Battle of Chioggia, outskirts of Milan and the mighty Visconti dynasty.
leaving Venice to reign
over the Adriatic and
Mediterranean (1381)
8 Victory over Turks at
Battle of Lepanto
9 After 25 years of war,
Crete is lost to the
Turks (1669)
0 Napoleon invades the
Veneto, bringing about
the fall of the Venetian
Republic (1797)

Marine Supremacy
The Republics gaining of
maritime power is cele-
brated in The Victorious
Return of Doge Andrea
Contarini after Triumph in
Chioggia by Paolo
Veronese (152588).

Piazza San Marco $ Campanile
Incomparable views
Long the political and religious heart of Venice, of the city and lagoon
can be had by taking the
its hard to believe Piazza San Marco was once elevator to the top of this
little more than a monastery garden crossed by 98.5-m (323-ft) bell
Venices Top 10

a stream. The glittering basilica and Doges tower. Erstwhile light-

house, watch tower and
Palace command the east side of the square, torture chamber, it was
while other stately buildings along its borders masterfully rebuilt to its
have been the backdrop for magnicent proces- 16th-century design
following its clamorous
sions celebrating victorious commanders, visiting collapse in 1902.
dignitaries and festivals. The western end
was remodelled by Napoleon, who wished
to construct a royal palace here. Today the
piazza continues to bustle, with a museum
complex (see p18), elegant cafs, live
orchestras, costumed Carnival crowds not
to mention duck-boards when it oods.

Top 10 Sights
1 Basilica San Marco
2 Doges Palace
3 Torre dellOrologio
Bas-relief, Doges Palace 4 Campanile
faade 5 Piazzetta
6 Columns of San
An after-dinner drink
in the piazza on Marco & San Teodoro
summer evenings is 7 Piazzetta dei Leoncini
accompanied by the 8 Procuratie Vecchie &
caf orchestras. Nuove
9 Caff Florian
The best time to 0 Giardinetti Reali
appreciate the
beauty of the square
is early morning, ! Basilica
when only the city See pp811.
sweepers are here.

San Marco @ Doges Palace

See pp1215.
Map Q5 Campanile:
Open EasterOct: 9am
7:30pm daily; NovEaster: Torre dellOrologio
A marvel to behold,
9:30am3:45pm Mon the Renaissance-style
Fri, 9:30am4:45pm Sat clock tower features two
Sun; admission 6.00 bronze moors (right)
Caff Florian: 041 520 hammering out the hours
56 41: open 10am on the upper terrace. At
midnight (closed Wed in Epiphany and Ascension
winter) Museo Correr there is an hourly proces-
Complex: Open AprOct: sion of clockwork Magi led
9am7pm; NovMar: by an angel. According to
9am5pm; admission 11 legend, the craftsmen
(includes Doges Palace) were blinded to prevent
them repeating the work.

16 For more on Museo Correr Complex See p18

Plan of Piazza
San Marco 3 7

Museo 4 2
89 5

Venices Top 10
0 6
% Piazzetta
Once an inlet for boats and witness to the arrival
of distinguished visitors during the Republics heyday,
this now fully paved mini square fronts the lagoon. ( Caff Florian
Reputedly Europes
rst coffee house (below),
the premises still retain
their 1720 wood-panelling,
marble-topped tables
and gilt-framed mirrors
(see p75).

) Giardinetti Reali
These shady public
gardens, created during
the Napoleonic era, took
the place of boatyards
and grain stores, situated
just behind the panor-
amic waterfront.

Venices Bells
Booming through the
city, the ve bells in
the Campanile have
^ Columns
of San & Piazzetta
dei marked Venices
rhythms for centuries.
Marco and Site of a former vegetable The Malecio bell
San Teodoro market, a pair of lions announced an execu-
These two (leoni) in red Verona stone tion, the Nona rang at
granite columns have been crouching here midday, the Trottiera
(right) with sym- since 1722. spurred on the nobles
bols of the horses for assemblies
saints were
erected in 1172 * Procuratie
and Nuove
Vecchie in the Doges Palace
and the Mezza Terza
by Nicol These elegant 15th- marked a session of
Barattieri. century buildings were the Senate. The
Public execu- the residence of the Marangona still tolls
tions were Procurators, responsible at midnight.
held here. for state administration.

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 17

Venices Top 10

Left Libreria Sansoviniana staircase ceiling Centre Bellini Room Right Correr Ballroom

Museo Correr Complex

^ Map of Venice
Pride of place in Room 32 of
The ceiling vault of the opulent the Museo Correr goes to Jacopo
reading room (sale monumentali), de Barbaris prospective map-
inside the Libreria Sansoviniana, layout of Venice (14971500),
collapsed in 1545 and its archi- painstakingly engraved on six
tect Sansovino imprisoned he pear-wood panels.
was released to complete the
job at his own expense. Titian
selected artists for the decora- & Bellini Room
Works by the talented Bellini
tions; Veronese was awarded a family are on display in Room 36
gold chain for the best work. of the Pinacoteca: the poignant
Dead Christ Supported by Two

@ Libreria
Sansoviniana Angels (14535) by the best
known, Giovanni; head of the
Bedecked with gilt and stucco family, Jacopos Crucixion
decorations by Alessandro (1450) and son Gentiles portrait
Vittoria, the 16th-century stair- of Doge Giovanni Mocenigo (1475).
case leads from a monumental
entrance on the piazza to the
halls of the old library. * Canova Statues
Foremost sculptor of his
time, works by Antonio Canova

This prolic Byzantine

Veneziano Paintings (17671822) in the Museo Correr
include his acclaimed statue
artist is featured in the Daedalus and Icarus.
Pinacotecas Room 25 (part of
Museo Correr), with glowing
two-dimensional religious ( Narwhal Tusk
Once prized as the
portraits (12901302). horn of the fabled unicorn,
this 1.6-m-long (5-ft) tusk

$ Correr Ballroom
This showy Neo-Classical
from the rare whale has
been superbly carved
creation was built for Napoleon. with Jesses and Jesuss
It is now used for exhibitions. family tree (Room 40 in
Museo Correr).

% Two Venetian Ladies

Carpaccios masterpiece of
) Crafts & Guilds
well-dressed ladies (150010) is Wooden sandals 60 cm
in Room 38 of the Museo (2 ft) high, inlaid with
Correr. First thought to depict mother-of-pearl, illus-
courtesans, the women are, trate the stiff demands
in fact, awaiting their menfolks Venus statue, of 15th17th-century
return from hunting. Canova fashions (Room 48).

18 The complex on San Marco includes Museo Correr, Libreria

Sansoviniana and the Archeological Museum
Top 10 Historic
Events in Piazza
Acqua Alta Flooding
Acqua Alta (high water) has long been disruptive to
San Marco
the city between October and March. As warning
1 Foundations of Doges sirens ll the air, people drag out their waterproof

Venices Top 10
Palace laid (AD 814) boots, shopkeepers rush to put up protective barriers
2 Construction of basilica and street-sweepers lay out duck-boards in low-lying
started (828) spots. Venice and its lagoon are subject to the tides
3 First bullght held (1162) of the Adriatic Sea but ood levels are caused by the
4 Square paved with brick, coincidence of low atmospheric pressure, strong
herringbone-style (1267) sirocco winds from the south and natural high tides
5 Square paved with due to moon phases. Piazza San Marco is among the
volcanic trachyte blocks most vulnerable spots. The ood gates designed for
(172235) the Lido sea entrances are held by many experts to
6 Napoleon demolishes be both useless and harmful to the lagoon, however
San Geminiano church there are plans for an elaborate drainage system on
to make way for Ala the piazza, dredging canals and raising paving levels.
Napoleonica (1810)
7 Campanile crumbles to
the ground (1902)
8 Record ood 1.94 m
(6.4 ft) above sea level
(4 November 1966)
9 Pink Floyd rock concert
attracts 100,000 (1989)
0 Campanile stormed by
separatists (1997)

The Acqua Alta

Being in a vulnerable
position on the edge of
the lagoon, Piazza San
Marco has been
ooded by high tides
throughout its history.

Piazza San Marcos worst oods, November 1966

Grand Canal
Venices majestic highway, the Canal Grande, is Top 10 Sights
only one of the 177 canals flowing through the city, 1 Fondaco dei Turchi
but at some 4 km (2.5 miles) in length, 3070 m 2 Ca Pesaro
Venices Top 10

(98230 ft) in width and averaging 4.5 m (15 ft) 3 Rialto Bridge
in depth, it certainly earns its name. Snaking its 4 Riva del Vin
way through the city with a double curve, its banks 5 Ca Rezzonico
6 Accademia Bridge
are lined with exquisite palaces, while on its waters
7 Ca Dario
colourful flotillas of gondolas, ferries, taxi launches, 8 Santa Maria delle Salute
high-speed police boats and barges groaning 9 Punta della Dogana
under loads of fresh produce, provide endless 0 Harrys Bar
fascination. In 1818, when the water was
cleaner, Lord Byron swam all the way
down the Grand Canal from the Lido.

! Fondaco

With an exotic air

and distinctive
Fondaco dei Turchi faade round arches, this
Grab the front seats building (1225) was
on vaporetto line the Turkish trade
No. 1 for the trip of
centre for 200
years. It is now the
a lifetime.
Natural History
Museum (see p64).
To beat the crowds,
either start out from
Piazzale Roma @ Ca Pesaro
This colossal
heading towards San Baroque palace,
Marco late afternoon decorated with
or evening, or take diamond-point
the reverse direction ashlar work, was
in the morning. the nal creation
of architect Long-
The Grand Canal runs
from Piazzale Roma, the
hena. Home to the
citys modern art Rialto Bridge
One of the citys most familiar
bus terminal and car collections, it is views, the striking 28-m (92-ft) span,
park area, to Piazza San beautifully oodlit 8-m (26-ft) high Istrian stone Ponte
Marco. It is navigable at night (see p41). di Rialto (below) dates from 1588.
courtesy of ferries Nos.
1 (all stops) and 2 (main
stops only)

20 For more Venice bridges See pp467

Venices Top 10
$ Riva del Vin
A sunny quayside
with a string of open-air
^ Accademia Bridge
restaurants, this is one of
the few accessible banks % Ca Rezzonico
The nest feature of
The lovely wooden
Ponte dellAccademia,
of the Grand Canal. this imposing palace is built in 1932 by the
Barrels of wine (vino) its grandiose staircase. engineer Miozzi, was
used to be off-loaded Today it is a museum of intended as a temporary
here, hence the name. 18th-century Venice. measure until a more
substantial structure was
designed, but it is now a
permanent xture. It
affords stunning views of
the Grand Canal.

Damage to buildings
caused by wash has
worsened of late with
the spiralling increase of
motor-propelled craft.
Waves provoked by all
manner of boats eat
into foundations of
buildings set on the
waters edge, as well as
making life harder for
the gondoliers. Speed
limits aim to curb this:
7 kmph (4.5 mph) for
private craft and 11 kmph
(7 mph) for public wate-
rbuses on the Grand
& Ca Dario
With an ornamental ( Punta
della Canal. Narrower canals
mean 5 kmph (3 mph),
Renaissance faade stud- The gure of Fortune
whereas 20 kmph
ded with multicoloured stands atop the erstwhile
(12.5 mph) is the maxi-
stone medallions, this customs house, doubling
mum on the lagoon.
lopsided palace is sup- as a weather vane. This
posedly cursed due to a is where the Grand Canal
number of misfortunes joins St Marks Basin and
that have overtaken its the lagoon.
various owners.

Santa Maria della ) Harrys Bar

Legendary watering
* Salute hole of Ernest Heming-
Longhenas 17th-century way, this is also where
masterpiece of sculpted the Bellini apritif was
whorls beneath a tower- invented (see p57).
ing dome, this church Opened in 1931 by Arrigo
commemorates the end Cipriani, it was named Stonework damaged
of a devastating plague in after the American who by waves
the city (see p38). funded the enterprise.

Share your travel recommendations on 21

Venices Top 10

Left Traghetto on the Grand Canal Centre Vaporetto stop Right Motonave on the lagoon

Watercraft of Venice
! Gondola
Most commonly seen % Sanpierota
This at-bottomed rowing
transporting tourists, a larger boat is named after the
version is also used for the inhabitants of San Pietro in Volta
cross-canal ferry (see p135), in the southern lagoon (see p117).
while the smaller gondolino is a Once used for transporting sh
slender racing craft. to Venice, nowadays it is tted
with an outboard motor and

@ Vaporetto
Strictly speaking, this is the
photogenic oblique sail.

capacious rounded waterbus,

now also seen in an ecological ^ Bragozzo
With a gently rounded prow
electric model. A slimmer and stern, this brightly coloured
motoscafo serves the outer runs sailing boat was traditionally
and narrow canals with relatively used for shing by the inhabi-
low bridges. tants of Chioggia (see p117).

& Fire Boat

From their station near Ca
Foscari, the red launches are
called both to deal with res and
to rescue submerged obstacles
and crumbling faades.

Vaporetto * Garbage Vessel

The citys hefty waste-
collecting AMAV barges trundle

A slim lightweight boat

Sandolo over the lagoon with the days
rubbish, as well as carrying out
perfectly suited to hunting and environmental monitoring.
shing in the shallow waters of
the lagoon, not to mention
racing. Painted black, these ( Ambulance
and Police

imitation gondolas can deceive These modern craft attract plenty

tourists on the back canals. of attention as they roar down
the canals only the emergency

$ Topo
The most common barge for
categories are allowed to
disregard the citys speed limits.
transporting goods, it can be
seen loaded with everything
from washing machines to demi- ) Car Ferry
These giants convey all
johns, often with a live dog manner of motor vehicles from
gurehead on the prow. the Tronchetto to the Lido.

22 For more on getting around Venice See p135

Top 10 Gondola
Venices Gondolas
The quintessential sleek Venetian gondola has been
1 Forcola (rowlock) plying the citys canals since as early as the 11th
2 Ferro (prow bracket) century, although it did not take on its present

Venices Top 10
3 Hippocampus (side graceful form until the late 1400s. Compared to a
ornament) mere 405 gondolas on the
4 Night lamp waterways today, as many as
5 Bronze stern decoration 10,000 were in use in the late
6 Ribbed oar 19th century: bridges were
7 Felze (cabin) once few and far between
8 Gondoliers foot rest and gondolas acted as ferries
9 Gondoliers striped shirt between one island and
0 Gondoliers straw hat another, a custom that
continues to this day across
the Grand Canal.
A handful of
gondola yards still Gondolier in
construct the boats traditional dress
as well as carrying out repairs, such as
San Trovaso in Dorsoduro (see p89). Its a
costly and complex craft eight different
types of wood are needed for a total of
280 pieces to put together the
asymmetrical craft, 11 m (36 ft) in length
and 1.42 m (4.5 ft) in width, at a cost
approaching 25,000 euros. A gondola
weighs more than 350 kg (770 lb),
including a 30-kg (66-lb) ferro (iron
bracket) on the prow, to offset the weight
of the rower. Originally painted in bright
colours, the black gondolas that you see
today were decreed by the Senate to
Gondola mooring post prevent excessive shows of wealth.

La Sensa Festival (see p62)

Accademia Galleries
A dazzling collection of masterpieces spanning the
full development of Venetian art from Byzantine to
Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo, the Gallerie
Venices Top 10

dellAccademia is Venices equivalent of the Uffizi

in Florence. Giovanni Battista Piazzetta started the
collection in 1750 to serve as models for the art
school; in 1807 it was boosted by Napoleon with @ The Tempest
This enigmatic 1506
the addition of works from suppressed churches. portrayal of a woman
The same year the collection moved to its present suckling her child is by
premises, occupying three former religious estab- Giorgione (Room 5). The
overall impression is of
lishments: the 12th15th-century Scuola Grande di gures and the dream-
Santa Maria della Carit and its adjoining church, like, stormy landscape
and a 12th-century monastery remodelled by blended into one whole.

Palladio in the 1500s. More recently, in the

1940s, Carlo Scarpa modernized
the layout (see p45).

Top 10 Works
1 San Giobbe Altarpiece
2 The Tempest
3 Supper in the House of Levi
4 Piet
5 Meeting and Departure of the
Accademia Galleries
entrance Betrothed Ursula and Ereo
6 Procession in St Marks Square
Read the helpful free
7 Madonna dellArancio
information sheets
available in each 8 Coronation of the Virgin
room. They contain 9 Portrait of a Gentleman
almost entirely the 0 Portraits by Rosalba Carriera
same text as the
audio guide.

Campo della Carit

! San Giobbe Altarpiece
Giovanni Bellinis
Dorsoduro 1050 gloriously inspirational
Map L6 altarpiece (Room 2), was
041 522 22 47 painted in 1487 for the
Open 8:15am7:15pm Church of San Giobbe.
daily (2pm Mon; last It is regarded as one of
admission 30 minutes the nest examples of
before closing); closed Sacra Conversazione,
1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec which was central to
Admission 6.50 15th-century Venetian
Quadreria Corridor: art. The presence of
041 522 22 47 St Sebastian and St
(reservations essential); Roch alongside the
opening times vary, Virgin suggest the
phone to check; tours in aftermath of plague,
Italian only, free of charge while angel musicians
Bookshop www. pay homage to San Giobbe, patron saint
of music.

24 For more Venice museums and galleries See pp4041

Supper in the
House of Levi $ Piet
Titians last work
4 3
The forceful canvas (1576) is unnished but it
by Veronese (1573) is also considered his 9
occupies an entire best (Room 10), imbued
wall of Room 10 as it is with golden light

Venices Top 10
(below) and caused and a piercing sense 2
controversy in its of anguish.
time. The church
6 5
authorities, who
commissioned it as % Meeting and
Departure of the 0 8
The Last Supper, Betrothed Ursula
were angered by the and Ereo
inclusion of dogs, Part of Carpaccios
buffoons, drunken magnicent narrative
Germans, dwarfs and cycle (1495) about a Bookshop
other such absurdi- Breton princess and an
ties so Veronese English prince can be Gallery Floorplan
changed the title. seen in Room 21.
) Portraits by
Rosalba Carriera
As a female artist in
demand by 18th-century
high society, Carriera
(self-portrait below) was
a rarity for her time. Her
late-Baroque works in
Room 17 display the soft
romantic pastels that
became her trademark.

^ in St Marks * Coronation
of the

Square This resplendent polyptych

Part of Gentile (1350) by Venices leading Gallery Guide
Bellinis spectacular 14th-century artist, Paolo The vast gallery is
cycle (1496) of the St Veneziano, is the rst work organized in chronolog-
Marks Day proces- in Room 1. Flanking the ical order for the most
sion in 1444 is seen sumptuous Byzantine- part and the 24 rooms,
in Room 20. inspired centre are events labelled with roman
from the life of Christ. numerals, are equipped

& La Madonna
with explanatory cards

This exquisite work ( Portrait

of a in English. The Quad-
reria corridor is lled
(14968) by Cima Lorenzo Lottos sombre with masterpieces and
da Conegliano, image of a melancholic man is visited free of charge.
painted for a Murano of means in his study (1528) Some changes to the
Franciscan church, is possibly a self portrait oorplan may result
is enlivened with (Room 7). Lotto was known from extensive restor-
partridges and plant for work entailing psycho- ation of the galleries.
life (Room 2). logical insights.

For more on Venice artists See p44 25

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
A masterpiece of Venetian Gothic ecclesiastical architecture, this cavernous
15th-century church for Franciscan friars took more than 100 years to
complete, along with its brother SS Giovanni e Paolo (see p38), and a
Venices Top 10

further 26 years for the consecration of the main altar. A wonderful series of
art treasures is held within the deceptively gloomy interior, which is almost
100 m (330 ft) long and 50 m (165 ft) across, from priceless canvases by
Titian and Bellini to tombs of doges and artists such as Canova.

Top 10 Features
1 Assumption of the Virgin
@ Rood Screen
A beautifully carved
blend of Renaissance and
2 Rood Screen Gothic elements by Pietro
3 Choir Stalls Lombardo and Bartolomeo
4 Madonna Enthroned with Bon (1475), the screen
Saints divides the worship area
and nave (below).
5 Campanile
6 Canovas Mausoleum
Titians monument
7 Monument to Doge
Francesco Foscari
There are some great 8 Statue of John the Baptist
cafs and eateries in 9 Monument to Titian
Campo dei Frari with
0 Mausoleum of Doge
views of the church.
Giovanni Pesaro
Youngsters will love
the nativity scene
with day-night
lighting effects and ! Assumption
the Virgin
moving gures at Titians glowing 1518
Christmas time. depiction of the trium-
phant ascent of Mary
Campo dei Frari, San shows her robed in crim-
Polo son accompanied by a
Map L3 semi-circle of saints, while
041 275 04 62 the 12 Apostles are left
Open 9am6pm Mon gesticulating in
Sat, 16pm Sun; wonderment
closed 1 Jan, below. This
Easter, brilliant
15 Aug, canvas on
25 Dec the high
Admis- altar is the
sion 2.50 inevitable
focus of
the church.

Choir Stalls
Unique for Venice, the
original three tiers of 124
friars seats deserve exami-
nation for their fascinating
inlaid woodwork. Crafted by
Marco Cozzi in 1468, they
show the inuence of
northern European styles.

26 For more Venice churches See pp389

$ Madonna
with Saints 8
Tucked away in the
sacristy, and still in
its original engraved 3
5 2

Venices Top 10
frame, is another
delight for Bellini fans
(1488). It
seems painted 0
wrote Henry 9
James of the 6
% Campanile
The robust 14th-
century bell tower set into Church Floorplan
the churchs left transept
is the second tallest in
) Mausoleum
of Doge
Giovanni Pesaro
The monsters and black
marble gures supporting
the sarcophagus of this
macabre Baroque monu-
ment prompted art critic
John Ruskin to write it
seems impossible for
false taste and base
feeling to sink lower.

State Archives
The labyrinthine mona-
stery and courtyards
adjoining the church
have been home to

^ Canovas
Mausoleum * Statue of John
the Baptist
Venices State Archives
since the fall of the
This colossal monument, The inspirational wood Republic. Its 300 rooms
based on Canovas statue from 1450 (left), and approximately
Neo-Classical design created especially for 70 km (43 miles) of
for Titians tomb, the church by artist shelves are loaded with
which was never Donatello (1386 precious records docu-
built, was a tribute 1466), stands in menting the history of
by the sculptors the Florentine Venice right back to the
followers in 1822. chapel. The 9th century, including
emaciated gure is the Golden Book
Monument particularly lifelike.
& to Doge
register of the Venetian
aristocracy. Scholars
Francesco Foscari
A ne Renaissance ( Monument
to Titian
enter the building via
the Oratorio di San
tribute to the man Titian was afforded Nicol della Lattuga
responsible for special authorization (1332), named after the
Venices mainland for burial here after miraculous recovery of
expansion. his death during a Procurator of San
Foscari was the the 1576 plague, Marco thanks to the
subject of Lord Byrons although this sturdy mau- healing qualities of a
The Two Foscari, turned soleum was not built for lettuce (lattuga).
into an opera by Verdi. another 300 years.

Top 10 Sights
Rialto Market 1 Fresh Produce Market
The commercial hub of Venice is as bustling today 2 Pescheria
as it has always been records tell of markets 3 San Giacomo di Rialto
here since 1097. The area is also the citys 4 Public Rostrum
Venices Top 10

historical heart and took its name from Rivoaltus, 5 Palazzo dei Camerlenghi
the high consolidated terrain that guaranteed early 6 Gondola Ferry
7 Banco Giro Arcade
settlers flood-free premises. The majority of build-
8 Ruga degli Oreci
ings, however, date from the 16th century, due to
9 Grand Canal Views
a fire which swept through Rialto in 1514. During 0 Fabbriche Nuove
Carnival the stall-holders don medieval costume
to vie with each other
for custom and only
the new awnings
and electronic cash
registers let slip the
modern world.

Fabbriche Nuove arcades

In addition to fresh
fruit from the market,
picnic supplies can
be bought at the
delicatessens and
bakeries in the

San Polo
Map P2
Fresh produce market:
7:30am1pm MonSat;
! Fresh
@ Pescheria
Writhing eels,
Pescheria: 7:30am1pm A treat for the senses, with soft-shelled crabs, huge
TueSat artistic piles of luscious swordsh and crimson-
peaches and cherries, eshed fresh tuna are
thorny artichokes and red among the stars of the 1907
chicory from Treviso. Fruit, Neo-Gothic sh market hall
vegetables and sh tend (above), barely out of reach
to be strictly seasonal. of the scavenging seagulls.

San Giacomo
di Rialto
The oldest church in Venice
claims to have a foundation
set by a pious carpenter in
the 5th century, although
the present building is
medieval. The Gothic portico
and 24-hour clock are well
worth a look.

28 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

$ Public Rostrum
New laws and
names of criminals were
announced atop this por-
phyry column, supported
by a stone gure known as

Venices Top 10
il gobbo (hunchback).

% Palazzo dei
This lop-sided 1525 palace
(right) once imprisoned debtors
on the ground oor, but the
top oors were ofces for the
city treasurers (camerlenghi).

^ Gondola Ferry
A must for every visitor
is a trip on the traghetto
ferry across the Grand
Canal one of only eight
still in operation. Custom
dictates that passengers
should remain standing.

& Banco Giro Arcade

Merchants gathered to
do business deals outside
the citys rst bank set up
in 1157, now a wine bar. The
state abolished private
institutions in 1585, prot-
ing from the activity.

* Ruga degli Orefici

This lovely covered
passageway decorated with
frescoes has been home to
silversmiths, goldsmiths and
silk traders since the 1300s.

) Fabbriche
Nuove ( Grand Canal Views
The Erberia, right on
Uniformed carabinieri the Grand Canal, makes a
(police) patrol the wonderful spot for boat-
elongated law courts watching since the
edging the Grand Canal relocation of the wholesale Place Names
(below). Designed in market from here to Rialto markets narrow
15525 by Sansovino Tronchetto in the 1990s. alleyways carry names
they are recognizable such as Oreci (gold-
by their 25 plain smiths), Pescaria (sh-
arcades. mongers) and Erberia
(vegetables), because
the same type of shops
once stood together.
Local eateries for
market traders also had
evocative names such
as Scimia (Monkey) and
Do Mori (Two Moors).

Some of the most breathtaking Byzantine mosaics in the world, found in the
lagoons oldest building, the Torcello basilica, reward those who visit this laid-
back island, a beautiful 60-minute ferry ride from northern Venice. From the
Venices Top 10

5th century, mainlanders fleeing invading Lombards and Huns ventured across
tidal flats to found a settlement that grew to 20,000 and lasted 1,000 years.
However few clues to the past remain, as the canals silted up, malaria
decimated the population and the power base shifted to Venice once and for
all. Today Torcello is home to a handful of gardeners and fishermen.
Top 10 Sights
1 Basilica Exterior
2 Doomsday Mosaics
3 Apse Mosaics
4 Iconostasis
Santa Fosca faade 5 Paving
6 Campanile
Insect repellent is a 7 Throne of Attila
must in summer as 8 Museo dellEstuario
erce mosquitoes 9 Santa Fosca
have colonized the 0 Locanda Cipriani
open lagoon.

Boat line LN from the

Fondamente Nuove via ! Basilica Exterior
A miraculous
Murano and Burano or survivor, this striking
from San Marco via Lido cathedral was founded
Map H1 in 639 but underwent
Basilica di Santa Maria radical restructuring in
dellAssunta: 041 296 1008. It retains its
0630; open MarOct: Romanesque form, light
10:30am6pm daily, brick walls and an arcad-
NovFeb: 10am5pm ed 9th-century portico.
daily; admission 3.00
Apse Mosaics,
Campanile: open
MarOct: 10:30am @ Doomsday
Mosaics, Basilica
This moving 13th-
5:30pm daily, NovFeb: In these 1213th-century century mosaic
10am4:30pm; admission marvels (below) the shows the Virgin in
3.00; audio guide Universal Judgment is a blue robe with
Santa Fosca: open for dramatically depicted in gold fringing, cradling
worship only superbly restored her radiant child in a
Museo dellEstuario: scenes of devils, angels, gentle stance. Below
041 730 761; open wild beasts and res. are the 12 Apostles
MarOct: 10:30am standing in a
5:30pm TueSun, meadow of owers.
NovFeb: 10am5pm
TueSun; closed public
hols; admission 3.00 $ Iconostasis,
Exquisite marble panels show
peacocks drinking at the foun-
tain of eternal life, diminutive
lions posing under a tree of
tendrils loaded with birds,
while six columns support
15th-century paintings of the
Apostles with the Virgin.

30 For more on the Northern Lagoon islands See pp10813

% Paving, Basilica
In vivid swirls of
colours, rivalling the
ooring in Basilica San
Marco, are brilliant 11th-
century tesserae of

Venices Top 10
stone and glass. Cubes,
semi-circles and triangles
are laid into square
designs. The oor level
was raised 30 cm (1 ft)
during the basilicas
* Museo
An intriguing if modest
collection of archaeologi-
cal nds from the island
and priceless treasures
from the church, are
housed in adjoining
Gothic buildings (above).

Attila the Hun

The Scourge of God,
otherwise known as the
King of the Huns, ruled
from AD 43453 with
an empire stretching
from the Alps and the
Baltic towards the
Caspian Sea. As part of
his campaign against
the Roman Empire,
Attila attacked the cities
of Milan, Verona and
Padua causing refugees

^ Campanile
The views from this ( Santa Fosca
Alongside the
to ee to Torcello. Burn-
ing the cathedral town
simple 55-m (180-ft) bell basilica is this elegant of Aquileia gave him
tower range over the church based on a Greek special satisfaction his
vast expanse of the cross design, encircled men raised a hill in
lagoon, with its by a ve-sided portico Udine so he could enjoy
meandering canals and with columns and carved the spectacle.
tidal ats, to the Adriatic capitals. The inside of the
Sea, Venice itself and church is usually closed
even north to the Alps on at lunchtime.
a clear winters day.
) Locanda Cipriani
& Throne of Attila
By popular belief
A favourite of Ernest
Hemingway, who
this marble armchair stayed here in
(right) was the 1948, the quiet
throne of the king charm of this
of the Huns, guesthouse has
though his- attracted
torical sources VIPs since it
claim it was for opened in Attila, barbaric
the islands 1938 (see King of the Huns
magistrates. p146).

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 31

Campo Santa Margherita
This cheery, picturesque square in the district of Dorsoduro is a hive of activity
day in, day out. It owes its name to the Christian martyr St Margaret of Antioch,
possibly a fictitious figure but highly popular in medieval times. Patron saint
Venices Top 10

of expectant mothers, she is depicted in a niche on the squares northern wall

with her emblem, the dragon. The squares capacious form, exploited by local
children on bicycles and in-line skates, is due to an ambitious enlargement
project in the 1800s which opened up the south end by filling in canals.

Top 10 Sights
1 Ex Chiesa di Santa Margherita
2 Palazzo Foscolo-Corner
3 Scuola Grande dei Carmini
4 Calle del Forno
5 Casa dei Varoteri
6 Corte del Fondaco
7 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei
8 The House of the Moor
9 Rio Novo
Chiesa dei Carmini faade 0 Altana Terraces

Numerous take-away
pizza slice outlets and ! Ex Chiesa di Santa
bars serving sand- A writhing 14th-century
wiches (tramezzini) dragon symbolizing the
and rolls (panini) make martyrdom of the saint
for a cheap lunch, and enlivens the foot of the bell
allow for the kids to tower of the former church.
run around. It has been restored by the
university as the Auditorium
Dorsoduro Santa Margherita.
Map K5
Scuola Grande dei
Carmini: 041 528 9420; @ Palazzo

open AprOct: 9am6pm This beautiful palace (below)

MonSat, 9am4pm Sun; is virtually unchanged since
NovMar: 9am4pm daily; the 1300s and instantly
admission 5.00 distinguishable by its deep
overhanging eaves. A strik-
ing Byzantine-style lunette,
bearing an inset with the
family crest, tops
the entrance
Scuola Grande
dei Carmini
Glorious rooms deco-
rated with Tiepolos
masterpieces are
highlights of this con-
fraternity. The upstairs
ceiling shows St Simeon
Stock Receiving the
Scapular from the Virgin.

32 For more on Venices Dorsoduro district See pp8893

$ Calle del Forno
An unusual series of % Casa dei Varoteri
A splendid bas-relief
medieval-style projec- of the Virgin sheltering a
tions from a rst-oor group of tradesmen in
dwelling, partly held up adoration adorns the
by brick columns, is one former tanners guild

Venices Top 10
of the features of this dating from 1725.
busy thoroughfare Because of its isolated
leading to Piazzale Roma position, it was once Rio Terr dei
and the bus terminal. The mistakenly thought to be Catecumeni, Dorsoduro
street is named after a the house of the citys
long-gone bakery (forno). executioner. Rio Terr
Rio is a common name
for canal, while terr
means lled-in. Dating
back to the 14th
century, the practice of
lling in waterways was
particularly widespread
in the 1800s to provide
extra pedestrian space.
Some would be covered
over with a system of
low-slung arches so as
not to obstruct water
ow, exemplied by Via
Garibaldi in Castello
(see p102). Later
campaigns, however,
encouraged the reverse
procedure, with
Cannaregios Rio della
Crea re-opened.

) Altana Terraces
These timber roof
platforms were common
in Venetian palaces and
^ Corte del Fondaco
A charming covered * The House of
the Moor
used by the ladies of the
house for bleaching their
passageway leads Research has proved that hair, which they exposed
through to this minor Shakespeares Othello to the sun through a
courtyard where curious was based on Cristoforo crownless wide-brimmed
low bricked-in arches Moro, son of a noble hat. They are now used
indicate the former site family sent to govern the for washing and drying
of a 1700s our store. island of Cyprus from clothes, and partying on
The name fondaco or 1508. This house at balmy summer evenings.
store derived from the No. 2615 is his
Arabic fonduq. former home.

& Chiesa di Santa Rio Novo

Maria dei Carmini ( Excavated in
This richly adorned 19323 to form a
church happily survived short cut from
Napoleons suppression Piazzale Roma to
of the Carmelite order of the Grand Canal,
monks in the adjoining the canal (right)
monastery. Many of its has been closed
13th-century features are to vaporetti since
intact, such as the the 1990s, due to
sculpted entrance porch. building damage.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection
The delightfully spacious, light-lled Collezione
Peggy Guggenheim is home to works by more than @ Bird

200 contemporary artists representing powerful This polished

Venices Top 10

avant garde movements such as Cubism, Futurism brass sculpture

(193240) was
and Surrealism. The landmark collection, put once classied by
together by its far-sighted namesake, is housed in US customs as a
the 18th-century Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, known stair-rail, thus
subject to duty.
as the unnished palace because of its one- Its creator was
storey construction. As well as the wonderful works Romanian artist
of art on display inside the gallery, there is also a Constantin
striking sculpture garden and the former home of (18761957).
Peggy Guggenheim to visit.

Top 10 Works of Art

1 The Poet
2 Bird in Space
3 Attirement of the Bride
4 Empire of Light
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni
5 Woman Walking
6 The Moon Woman
Take a break on the 7 Magic Garden
cafs shady
8 Mobile
verandah for a light
snack or a meal.
9 Angel of the City
0 Three Standing Figures
Watch the sun
setting on the terrace
directly on the Grand ! The Poet
A wonderful starting
Canal during the late point is this portrait (1911) by
evening openings. legendary Spanish artist
Pablo Picasso (18811973),
Fondamenta Venier dei from his early Cubist period.
Leoni, Dorsoduro 704 The gure is executed from a
(2nd entrance Calle S limited palette of ochre and
Cristoforo, Dorsoduro dark browns (below).
Map D5
041 240 54 11
Open 10am6pm
WedMon; closed 25
Admission 10
Coffee shop Attirement
the Bride

Audio guides This portrayal (1940) of an

No photography orange-robed bride assis-
Shop ted by mutant animals
and humans (above), is
by Max Ernst (18911976).
The German Surrealist
was married to Guggen-
heim in the 1940s.

34 For more Venice art galleries See pp4041

$ Empire of Light
Magical light effects see darkened 2
trees and a house silhouetted by a 7
street lamp against a contrasting 1 8 5 34
daytime sky with uffy clouds, in this
work (19534) by Ren Magritte Gianni

Venices Top 10
(18981967). The Belgian Surrealist was Mattioli
renowned for his eccentric subjects.

% Woman Walking
This serene elongated form Key to oorplan
of a truncated female gure (1932),
apparently inspired by Etruscan design, Gallery
is the recognized trademark of the Main
entrance Nasher Sculpture
Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti
(190166), a short-term participant in
the Surrealist movement.

& Magic Garden

A deliberately child- ) Three Standing
like, warmly textured Beautifully placed in the
piece (1926) by Paul Klee Nasher Sculpture Garden,
(18791940), with these abstract sculptures
smeary shapes and (1953) by Henry Moore
sketched-in faces and (18981986) were inspi-
buildings (below), fulls red by Italian bell towers.
the artists desire to be
as though newborn to
be almost primitive. Peggy
This colourful US expat-
riate (18981979) and
heir to a mining fortune
rst came to Europe in
1921, quickly tting into
Bohemian Paris. Resol-
ving to buy a picture a
day, she amassed a
contemporary art collec-
tion which was exhibited
in both London and
New York, before she
made Venice her home
* Mobile
This simple master-
in 1947. She is fondly
remembered by locals
piece of movement (1941) for her faithful dogs and
by Alexander Calder for owning the citys
(18981976), which gave last private gondola.
its name to all mobiles,
hangs in the atrium of
Guggenheims house
and shifts delicately in
the breeze.
^ The Moon
This vibrant canvas (1942) ( Angel of the City
Set on steps leading
starring a skeletal stick to the terrace, this
gure with an odd, pad- bronze horse and rider
ded curve is an early (1948) by Italian sculptor
work by Jackson Pollock Marino Marini (190180)
(191256), pre-dating his greet passing boats in an Guggenheim and dogs
famous drip technique. outstretched stance.

Venices Top 10

Left Getting around on the water Right Crumbling Venetian faade

Frequently Asked Questions

! IsTheoretically,
Venice still sinking?
that all came Do people often fall in
the water?
to a halt when the industries in The odd tourist miscalculates the
Marghera stopped pumping out distance between the quayside
groundwater. However, studies and a waiting water taxi and
have documented both a rise in takes the plunge inevitably
relative sea level, combined with saved by timely intervention
accelerating subsidence due to from a bystander. Be wary of
changes in plate tectonics and moss-covered steps when taking
soft sediments compacting a photograph or a rest and, of
under the weight of buildings. course, dont let young children
out of your sight near water.

@ What do the buildings

stand on?
$ Why dont people restore
In the course of the citys the crumbling buildings?
history, millions of pinewood Strict regulations concern
piles from the Republics faades only porous stucco can
carefully cultivated forests in the be used for renovation as
Alps were driven deep into the anything else tends to come
compressed clay-mud base and, away in sheets in damp, windy
over time, petried in the weather and is a hazard for
absence of oxygen. These were passers-by. As a result, freshly
successively overlaid with plastered faades start crumbling
horizontal planks and marble-like weeks after application due to
Istrian stone slabs which served the high humidity and salt
as the foundations for buildings. content in the air.

% How deep is the lagoon?

At its maximum, 15 m (49 ft)
in the navigable channels dred-
ged for shipping and marked by
bricole poles. Concern about the
danger of silting and obstruction
of the citys lifeline waterways
has always been high one
preventitive measure was to re-
route two rivers into the Adriatic
Sea away from the lagoon. The
Brenta was gradually modied
between 14001600 to have it
ow out after Chioggia, and the
Sile was redirected towards
Venetian brick faade Jesolo in the 1600s.

^ Does
everyone have a
* Can you drink water from
the drinking fountains?
On summer Sundays you would Yes, its the same as the tap
be forgiven for thinking that is water and subject to constant
the case, as families pack small testing and treatment. Until

Venices Top 10
craft with picnic supplies, 1884, when the supply piped
sunshades, shing or stereo from the mainland was
gear and row, sail, punt or speed inaugurated with a
out across the lagoon. Many, of fountain in Piazza
course, need boats for work. On San Marco, the
average, one in two families city depended on
possess a pleasure boat. rainwater which
was meticu-
lously drained
and collected in
cisterns beneath
squares equip-
ped with locked
covered wells. Drinking fountain

( How does the house

numbering system work?
Within each of the citys six
administrative districts (sestiere),
numbers follow the alleyways
along one side at a time, taking
in branch streets and courtyards
when encountered. In Canna-
regio, the most extensive district,
numbers reach 6420. The post-
men are used to this confusing
system, but visitors will need the
name of the alley (calle), square
(campo) or quayside (fondamenta).
Private pleasure boats belonging to
Venice residents

& How many people

actually live in Venice?
The 1997 census states 68,600,
meaning gures have more than Venice house number
halved since the 1950s.
Moreover, this includes Italys
highest percentage of senior ) Isswimming?
the sea safe for

citizens. Venices permanent Yes. Periodic controls for

population is experiencing a slow bacterial counts are carried out
but inexorable decline as young and the upper Adriatic normally
couples prefer to move to the emerges with a clean slate.
mainland with the convenience Venices closest beach is at the
of a car, not to mention lower Lido, where the citys families go
house prices, cheaper shopping en masse during the steamy
and fewer tourists. summer months (see p115).

Venices Top 10

Left & centre left S Maria G dei Frari Centre right Madonna dellOrto Right S Maria dei Miracoli

Venice Churches
! Basilica San Marco
See pp811. % San Zaccaria
An intricately decorated
15th-century faade by Coducci

@ Santa Maria Gloriosa

dei Frari
and, inside, Giovanni Bellinis
superb Madonna and Saints (1505)
See pp267. are highlights of this 9th-century
church. The adjoining convent,

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

The monumental tombs of 25
now a police station, used to
host puppet shows to entertain
doges take pride of place in this the nuns. d Campo S Zaccaria,
solemn Gothic giant, erected by Castello Map F4 Open 10amnoon,
Dominican friars from the 13th to 46pm MonSat, 46pm Sun & public
15th centuries. Among them is hols Admission charge (chapels & crypt)
the grandiose tribute to Pietro
Mocenigo for his valorous strug-
gle to defend Venices eastern ^ San Giorgio Maggiore
Palladios harmoniously
colonies against the Turks (west proportioned church (15661610),
wall). Inside are splendid paint- inspired by Greek temple design,
ings by Veronese and a polyptych stands across the water from
(1465) by Giovanni Bellini. Piazza San Marco. The interior is
d Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo, Castello offset by two dynamic paintings
Map E3 Open 9am6pm MonSat, by Tintoretto from 1594, The Last
16pm Sun Admission charge Supper and Gathering the Manna,
on the chancel walls. The bell

$ Santa Maria dei

tower offers views over Venice.
Dont miss the monks Gregorian
A favourite among Venetians chants every Sunday at 11am.
for weddings, Pietro d Isola di S Giorgio Maggiore Map F5
Lombardos showcase Open daily (times can vary) Admission
(14819) is resplendent charge (bell tower)
again after restoration to
deal with rising damp. The
problem is not new in &
Santa Maria
della Salute
Renaissance times A remarkable
marble slabs were Baroque church
afxed to the dominating the
brick exterior southernmost
with a cavity left entrance to the
for air ow. The Grand Canal, its
ceiling gleams silhouette has
with gilt minia- become one of
tures of holy Venices most well-
gures (see p95). San Giorgio Maggiore known landmarks.

38 For more on Venice artists and architects See pp445

Designed by Longhena in 1630, Top 10 Shrines and
it has a spacious, light-lled
interior, while the altar houses a
precious Byzantine icon. Drama-
tic works by Titian and Tintoretto ! Sottoportego
de la

Venices Top 10
can be appreciated in the sacristy. Pope Alexander III took refuge
d Campo della Salute, Dorsoduro here in 1177, in ight from
Map D5 Open 9amnoon, 35:30pm Emperor Barbarossa. d Sant
Aponal, S Polo Map D3
daily Admission charge (sacristy)

@ Gondoliers Shrine
* Paolo Veronese spent a large
Chiesa di San Sebastiano A 1583 Madonna greets
boats approaching the bridge.
d Ponte della Paglia, S Marco
proportion of his life joyously
Map R5
decorating the ceiling, walls,
organ doors and altar of this
unassuming 16th-century church, Corte Nova
Painted images over a
and was buried among his lace-trimmed mantlepiece.
colourful masterpieces,which are d Castello Map G4
currently being restored (see p89).
$ Covered Passageway
The Virgins protection has

( Huge canvases by devout

Madonna dellOrto been implored here against
plague and enemy attacks.
d Calle Zorzi, Castello Map F4
parishioner Tintoretto enhance
this graceful Gothic church set
on a quiet back canal. Two 1546 % Scuola Grande della
masterpieces ank the high altar, Carvings of laden boats invoke
the gruesome Last Judgment protection for the ferries,
and the soaring grandeur of The which set out from here.
d Cannaregio Map D2
Worship of the Golden Calf.
d Campo Madonna dellOrto, Cannaregio
Map D1 Open 10am5pm MonSat, ^ Corte de Ca Sarasina
Shrine dating back to the
15pm Sun Admission charge 1600s in memory of the dead.
d Castello Map H5

) San
Pantalon & St Anthony
This 1668 wardrobe is
Two treasures full of fresh ower offerings.
lurk behind a d Calle Larga, Cannaregio
ramshackle Map D2
faade: a nail
from the True * Ponte del Fontego
A Neo-Classical bridge
Cross in a rich featuring gondola bas-reliefs.
Gothic altar d Campo S Giustina, Castello
and the over- Map F3
San Pantalon ceiling by ( Gondola

Gian Antonio Madonna statue perched on a

Fumiani, a labour of love pole in the Grand Canal.
(16801704) which ended when d S Tom, S Polo Map L4
he purportedly plunged from the
scaffolding to his death. d Campo ) Boatmens Pole
Tabernacle midway on the
S Pantalon, Dorsoduro Map K4 Open San Giuliano-Venice channel.
46pm MonSat

Share your travel recommendations on 39

Venices Top 10

Left Burano lacework Centre Museo Storico Navale Right Museo del Vetro

Museums and Galleries

! Accademia
See pp245.
Galleries 330 kg (730 lb) and measuring
nearly 7 m (23 ft) in circumference
and 4 m (13 ft) high, is the star

@ Scuola Grande di
San Rocco
of this glass museum in the
Palazzo Giustiniani. Other exhibits
The San Rocco confraternity has include Phoenician phials, blown
now been turned into a gallery to vases, ruby chalices, exquisite
display its spectacular works by mirrors and the famed kaleid-
Tintoretto. The artist won the oscopic beads once traded
commission hands down not worldwide. d Fondamenta Giustinian
content with a sketch, he com- 8, Murano Map G2 Open AprOct:
pleted an entire canvas. He then 10am6pm ThuTue (NovMar:
spent 23 years on the cycle of 10am 5pm) Admission charge
60 inspired Old and New Testa-
ment scenes, culminating in the
breathtaking Crucixion (1565). % Museo Correr
Priceless artworks and a
They are the crowning glory of miscellany of items on Venices
Tintorettos life work (see p81). history are housed in this ne
museum on Piazza San Marco

Querini (see p18).

This unmissable Renaissance

palace was the bequest of ^ Scuola di San Giorgio
degli Schiavoni
Giovanni Querini in 1868, the last The nest work of Vittorio Car-
member of the illustrious dynasty, paccio can be seen at the confra-
on the condition that the library ternity of the Slavs (Schiavoni).
be made available particularly in
the evenings for the convenience
of scholars. The immaculately
restored palace-museum houses
fascinating scenes of public and
private life by Gabriel Bella and
Pietro Longhi, as well as Carlo
Scarpas Modernist creations.
d Campo S Maria Formosa, Castello
5252 Map E3 Open 10am6pm
TueSun (Fri & Sat until 10pm)
Admission charge

$ Museo del Vetro

A phenomenal chandelier
from 1864, constructed from 356
handmade pieces, weighing Fondazione Querini Stampalia

Slaying the dragon is one of the
scenes from the lives of Dalma- ( Museo del Merletto
A must for crafts enthusiasts
tian saints, executed in 1502. is the lacemaking island of
d Calle dei Furlani, Castello 3259 Map Burano and this precious display
F4 Open AprOct: 9:30am12:30pm, of more than 200 rare lace items,

Venices Top 10
3:306:30pm TueSun (closed public hols documenting a 500-year history.
& Sun pm in winter) Admission charge d Piazza Baldassare Galuppi, Burano
Map H1 Open AprOct: 10am5pm;

& Museo Storico Navale

Watercraft galore are on
NovMar: 10am4pm WedMon
Admission charge
display at this museum,
but the highlight is the
replica of the Doges
ceremonial barge
Bucintoro, richly
decorated with
allegorical statues.
d Campo S Biagio, Castello
2148 Map G4 Open
8:45am1:30pm MonFri, (to
1pm Sat) Admission charge

* Ca Pesaro
Galleria dArte
A Baroque triumph of Studio with a Fruit Bowl (1942), Raoul Dufy, Ca Pesaro
a palace whose interior,
in contrast, accommodates works
by leading European 19th- and
Museo dellIstituto
Ellenico )
20th- century masters such as A rich if small collection of
Marc Chagall and Gustave Klimt. 14th18th-century Byzantine
d Fondamenta Ca Pesaro, S Croce icons is on display.
2076 Map N1 Open 10am5pm d Ponte dei Greci, Castello 3412
TueSun (closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec) Map F4 Open 9am5pm daily
Admission charge (closed public hols) Admission charge
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Venices Top 10

Left Ca dOro Centre Ca Foscari Right Ca Dario

Venice Palaces
! Doges Palace
See pp1215.
Wagner, who spent his nal
years here. The palace is now
home to the glittering City

@ Ca dOro
The original lapis-lazuli,
Casino (see p60).

vermilion and gold faade has

long faded, but the breathtaking % Ca Dario
Framed multicoloured round
Gothic delicacy of this golden stones (tondi) embellish this
palace is intact, with exquisite privately owned asymmetrical
marble tracery and arcaded palace dating from 1486. It was
loggias crafted by 15th-century built for Giovanni Dario, ambas-
stonemasons (see p95). sador to Constantinople, where
he negotiated a peace treaty

Ca Foscari
Set on a strategic bend of
bringing long-term hostilities
between Venice and the Turks to
the Grand Canal, a temporary halt
this excellent (see p21).
example of late
Gothic architec-
ture has a series ^ Ca
of mullioned win- This glittering
dows facing the palace adorned
water, surmoun- with Tiepolo
ted by an Istrian ceiling frescoes,
stone frieze. majestic Murano
Once home to glass chandeliers
the long-ruling and elaborate
Doge Francesco carved period
Foscari, today it furniture was
is part of the renovated and is
University of home to the
Venice. d Calle Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi Museum of
Foscari, Dorsoduro 18th-century
3932 Map L5 Closed to public Venetian Life. d Fondamenta
Rezzonico, Dorsoduro 3136 Map L5

$ This stately Renaissance

Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi Open 10am5pm WedMon
(6pm AprOct) Admission charge
residence by architects Lom-
bardo and Coducci was home to
a string of noble families includ- & Palazzo Mastelli
This eclectic delight, tucked
ing the Cretan merchant Calergi in away on a peaceful back canal of
1589. Another famed tenant was Cannaregio, was the abode of
German composer Richard three merchant brothers from

Morea on the Peloponnese from Top 10 Architectural
1112. Their turbaned likenesses Features of a Palazzo
in stone adorn neighbouring
Campo dei Mori (see p95). A
fascinating carved menagerie of ! Piano nobile
The high-ceilinged rst

Venices Top 10
lions, birds and a prominent oor of a palazzo hosts the
camel can be picked out on the sumptuous salons and
familys living quarters.
Gothic faade. d Rio della Madonna
dellOrto, Cannaregio 3932 Map D1
Closed to public @ Faade
Usually fronting a canal,
this was the only exterior wall
decorated with a costly stone
* Palazzi Contarini degli
Scrigni overlay to impress visitors.
A 15th-century residence,
enlarged by architect Vincenzo Funnel-shaped
Scamozzi for the 17th-century These and many other
proprietor Contarini of the variations punctuate rooftops,
their long shafts often running
coffers (scrigni), so-called for
along outside walls.
the vast wealth of his family
which resided in the Veneto
region. The roof-top folly acted $ Kitchen
This was always located
as a useful observatory for on the ground oor for
practical reasons.
astronomers. d Calle Contarini Corfu,
Dorsoduro 1057 Map B5 Closed
to public % Canal Entrance
Where the familys private
gondolas were moored and
visitors were received.
( Cole Porter, Diaghilev, Monet
Palazzi Barbaro

and Whistler are just a few of ^ Central Well

This received ltered rain
the great names who gure water for the palazzos main
among the past guests of this water supply.
private double palace, courtesy
of the 19th-century Curtis family & Entrance Portal
The importance of the
from Boston. Henry James main entrance was usually
wrote The Aspen Papers here indicated by the distinctive
and used it as the setting for family crest.
The Wings of a Dove (see p51).
d Rio dellOrso, S Marco 2840 Map M6 * Enclosed Courtyard
This bustling area, usually
Closed to public with store rooms, was often
used for the familys business

) Palazzo Pisani-Moretta
Venue of a fabulous masked

ball during Carnival, when VIP ( Altana Roof Terrace-

guests still glide up in gondolas These open-air areas were
to the candlelit Gothic faade on traditionally used for hanging
the Grand Canal, as did the Tsar out the washing or bleaching
of Russia and Napoleons Jose- hair in the sun.
phine in days gone by. Tiepolo
and Guarana contributed to the ) Land Access
With private gondolas,
interior Baroque decorations. this was relatively unimpor-
d Ramo Pisani e Barbarigo, S Polo 2766 tant, hence a narrow alley.
Map M4 Open for private functions only

Venices Top 10

Left Giovanni Bellini Centre Mary with Child (151112), Giovanni Bellini Right Titian self-portrait

Artists in Venice
! Giovanni Bellini
With his father Jacopo and
luminous poetic frescoes from
the Rococo period, such as those
brother Gentile, Giovanni (1430 in the Scuola Grande dei Carmini
1516) made Venice one of the in Dorsoduro (see p28).
greatest centres of Renaissance
art. His trademarks are radiant
Madonnas and serene St Peters. & Vittorio Carpaccio
This Renaissance master
(14651525) delighted in detailed

@ A native of the Cadore

Titian (Tiziano Vecellio) scenes of daily Venetian life. His
narrative style and command of
region, whose Dolomite peaks light characterize his cycles.
often feature in his highly coloured
works, Titian (14881576) studied
under Giovanni Bellini. * Giorgione
Despite his brief life,
Giorgione (14771510) produced

The great Mannerist of the

Jacopo Tintoretto memorable mood works, surpas-
sing his master, Giovanni Bellini.
late Renaissance, Tintoretto
(151894) produced huge, glow-
ing canvases, seen at the Scuola ( Pietro Longhi
Longhis (170285) witty
Grande di San Rocco (see p81). scenes of the well-to-do in
Venice can be admired at Ca

$ Canaletto (Antonio Canal)

Famous for his landscapes
Rezzonico (see p42).

of Venice and England, Canaletto

(16971768) thrived under the ) Francesco Guardi
A prolic landscape painter,
patronage of the British consul Guardi (171293) successfully
Joseph Smith. captured the light and atmos-
phere of Venice in decline.

% Paolo Veronese
Foremost painter
of the Venetian
School, Veroneses
(152888) huge
canvases, teeming
with people, are on
display in the Doges
Palace (see pp1215).

^ Giambattista
Tiepolo (16961770)
is admired for his Rio dei Mendicanti (c.1723), Canaletto

44 For writers and Venice See pp5051

Venices Top 10
Left Libreria San Marco, Sansovino Right II Redentore, Palladio

Venice Architects
! Jacopo Sansovino
Trained in Florence under
of Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi
(see p60) and the churches of
sculptor Andrea Sansovino, San Zaccaria and San Michele.
whose name he adopted in
homage, Jacopo (14861570) ed
to Venice to escape the sacking ^ Bartolomeo Bon
Gothic sculptor and architect
of Rome. Of his outstanding Bons (13741464) designs were
architecture are the Libreria and the basis for the church and
Zecca (see pp1619). Scuola di San Rocco. With his son
Giovanni, he was also respon-

@ Andrea Palladio
Regarded as one of the
sible for the Ca dOro (see p42).

most inuential architects of the

western world, Palladio (1508 & Michele Sanmicheli
Original military fortication
80) designed many Classical designs by this Mannerist archi-
villas in the Veneto, along with tect (14841559) are to be found
the churches of Redentore and on the former Venetian islands of
San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice. Crete and Cyprus, as well as
monumental portals in his home

Baldassare Longhena
The majestic Santa Maria
town Verona (see p124).

della Salute, designed at the age

of 26, is Longhenas (15981682) * Antonio Da Ponte
Renowned for the landmark
masterpiece, but his amboyant Rialto bridge (see p28), this engi-
style is recognizable in numerous neer and architect (151295) also
churches and palaces, notably made numerous contributions to
Ca Rezzonico (see p42). the Doges Palace (see pp1215).

$ Pietro Lombardo
A native of Lombardy, sculp- ( Giannantonio Selva
In Venice, French-inspired
tor Pietro (14351515) took over Selva (17571819) is best rem-
as director of works at the Doges embered for the elegant Fenice
Palace when Antonio Rizzo ed, theatre, though he also played a
accused of embezzlement. His hand in works of the Napoleonic
trademark is a leafy bas-relief era including restructuring the
pattern, also seen on his Renais- Accademia Galleries.
sance masterpiece, Santa Maria
dei Miracoli (see p95).
) Carlo Scarpa
Modernist Scarpa (190678)

% Mauro Coducci
The Renaissance designs of
admirably reorganized both the
Accademia collection and the
Lombard native Coducci (c.1440 Querini Stampalia along
1504) can be seen in the shape Japanese-inspired lines.

For Venice churches See pp389 45

Venices Top 10

Left Ponte degli Scalzi Centre Rialto Bridge Right Ponte dei Pugni

! Bridge of Sighs
This evocatively named bridge
7-m (23-ft) above the Grand
Canal. Named after the nearby
once led convicts from the monastery of bare-footed monks,
Doges Palace to the adjacent this 1934 structure in Istrian stone
prisons (see p13). d Map R5 by Eugenio Miozzi replaced an
Austrian-built iron bridge.

@ Rialto Bridge
The design of this most
d Map J1

famous Venetian bridge at the

narrowest point of the Grand $ Ponte della Libert
Truth and irony combine in
Canal was hotly contested the name of this 3.6-km (2-mile)
leading 16th-century architects Bridge of Freedom: the rst
Michelangelo, Sansovino and full link between the mainland
Palladio all entered the competi- and Venice was put in place in
tion, but lost out to the imposing 1933, when Italy was living
winning project of 158891 by under Fascism. The construction
Antonio da Ponte. There were was preceded 86 years earlier by
two previous bridges on this site; the Austrian-built railway bridge
a timber bridge which collapsed across the lagoon. Before that,
in 1444 under the weight of a the city relied entirely on boats.
crowd, then a drawbridge, raised d Map A1
for the passage of tall-masted
sailing ships (see p28). d Map P3
% Ponte dei Tre Archi
A favourite subject for artists,

Ponte degli Scalzi

One of the citys most
this unusual three-arched high
bridge dating from 1688 crosses
marvellous lookout points, over the Cannaregio canal close to
fascinating palaces and boats, where it joins the lagoon. It was
can be had from this elegant the work of engineer Andrea
40-m (130-ft) long Tirali, nicknamed Tiranno
bridge, (the tyrant) by his
d Map B1

Tre Ponti, Santa Croce

46 For getting around Venice by boat See p135

^ Ponte dei Pugni
Fistghts (pugni) between ( Tre Ponti
Not three but ve interlock-
rival clans took place here until ing bridges span the Rio Nuovo
1705 when they were outlawed canal near Piazzale Roma. The
for their violence (see p90). Stone timber and stone structures afford

Venices Top 10
footprints marked the starting views taking in 13 other bridges.
point of the combat, but contes- d Map B3
tants usually ended up in the
canal. d Map K5
) Ponte Lungo
Marvellous views of Piazza

& Ponte delle Tette

When an increase in the
San Marco should entice visitors
to this 33-m (110-ft) long iron
practice of sodomy was recorded bridge. Halfway along Giudecca,
in the 1400s, the citys prosti- from 1340 it served as a link
tutes were encouraged to display with newly reclaimed tidal ats.
their feminine wares at the d Map C6
windows over the Bridge of
Breasts. d Map M2

* Bridge with No Parapet

One of only two remaining
bridges with no side protection,
this one spans a quiet side canal
in Cannaregio. The other is the
Ponte del Diavolo on Torcello.
d Map D2 Bridge with No Parapet
GN E GI am

Cannaregio en





AG e







Santa Croce


CAMPO San Polo
ROCCO nal e Castello
San Marco CPO SAN
RAFFAELE Bacino di
D. CARITA San Marco

Canale di F usi n a CAMPO


DELLA d ella Giudecca

La Giudecca CAMPO
500 yards 0 metres 500

Venices Top 10

Left Parco Savorgnan Centre Cloister of SantApollonia Right Campo della Maddalena

Hidden Venice
! Parco Savorgnan
A well-hidden haven of Corte del Duca Sforza
A picturesque courtyard
chirping birds in towering shady opening onto the Grand Canal, it
trees, signposted from Campo was named after the duke of
San Geremia and Fondamenta Milan who took over a partially
Savorgnan. Part of the park once constructed palace here in 1461.
belonged to Palazzo Savorgnan, However, work did not go much
now a school, which backs on to further than the diamond-point
it, and boasted statues, citrus ashlar on the faade. The artist
trees and Roman stonework. Titian used it as a studio when
d Cannaregio Map B2 working on the Doges Palace.
d S Marco Map L6

@ This quiet thoroughfare,

Rio Terr Rampani
$ Celestia to Bacini
around the corner from Ponte A lengthy atmospheric walk-
delle Tette, is usually referred to way in a somewhat neglected
as the Carampane (Ca zone of Castello, fronting the
Rampani), alias the red-light lagoon. The path clings to the
district as of 1421. Venice had wall of the ancient Arsenale ship-
some 11,600 ofcially registered yards (see p101), and leads to a
courtesans in the 1500s. A cluster of workers dwellings.
particularly narrow alley, Calle d Castello Map G3
della Rafneria, site of a 1713
sugar renery, runs off it.
d S Polo Map M2 % Corte dellAnatomia
This quiet courtyard took its
name from the anatomy theatre
which existed here as of 1368. In
1671, a College of Anatomy was
also established over the bridge
in Campo San Giacomo dellOrio,
now an isolated building with a
pretty vine-covered trellis.
d S Croce Map L2

^ Campiello del Remer

This delightful square faces
the Grand Canal and took its name
from the local oarmakers. It
boasts several Byzantine features,
notably the wellhead of Verona
stone and pointed ogee arches
from a 13th-century palace.
Rio Terr Rampani d Cannaregio Map P2

& Cloister of SantApollonia
Venices only authentic
Top 10 Animals
in Venice
Romanesque cloister has a court-
yard with twin-columned arcades,
now part of a church museum. ! Pigeons
Piazza San Marco wouldnt

Venices Top 10
d Castello Map R4 be the same without them,
but their droppings play havoc
with the stonework.
* Campo della Celestia
Now a tranquil residential
square, in the 13th century it @ Lions
Symbol of Venice and St
saw plenty of action when the Mark, abundant statuary and
sisters of a Cistercian convent paintings of lions in varying
gained a riotous reputation. forms ll the city.
Under Napoleon an archive of
city affairs took over the building. Cats
The citys feline population
d Castello Map G3 is pampered and fed by
affectionate Venetians.

$ Rats
Rare, thanks to imported
Syrian cats in the past,
replaced by an effective
council eradication campaign.

% Horses
Once ridden around town
by the Venetian nobility, even
up the Campanile via a ramp.

^ Dogs
By law dogs in Venice
must be muzzled, kept on a
leash and cleaned up after at
all times.

& Seagulls
Self-appointed garbage
collectors, they do an admir-
Calle del Paradiso
able job around the markets.

( Calle del Paradiso

Though slightly lop-sided, a
* Cormorants
Hundreds of elegant jet-
black waterfowl inhabit the
delicately sculptured 15th-century lagoon, to the chagrin of the
arch representing the Virgin and shermen.
her devotees never fails to delight.
The attractive alley is lined with
medieval-style timber overhangs.
( Rhinoceroses
One of the many exotic
circus animals portrayed on
d Castello Map R3
canvas by 18th-century artist
Pietro Longhi.

) Campo della Maddalena

Unchanged since medieval
) Elephants
Incredibly, a runaway
times, this lovely raised square
elephant from an 1819 circus
often doubles as a lm set. Its took refuge in a church, and
modest houses are topped with cannon re was needed to
chimneys in varying styles. dispatch it.
d Cannaregio Map D2

Left Shakespeare Centre left Carlo Goldoni Centre right Thomas Mann Right Ernest Hemingway
Venices Top 10

Writers and Venice

! Carlo Goldoni
Italys Molire (170793)
city buzzing with trade and
intrigue. Romeo and Juliet is set
is celebrated at the Venetian in Verona (see p124).
theatre named in his honour (see
p66). Performances of his lively,
witty comedies are staged in $ Thomas Coryate
The very rst English-
Venetian dialect and peopled language traveller to write a
with recognizable local characters. detailed description of Venice,
The prolic playwright moved to this eccentric gentleman from
Paris and was rewarded with a Somerset, England (15771617)
royal pension, but he died compiled Crudities, with
destitute due to the French Observations of Venice (1611):
Revolution. Such is the rarenesse of
the situation of Venice,

@ Thomas Mann
The sombre
that it doth even
amaze and drive
1912 novel Death into admiration all
in Venice was strangers that
both written and upon their rst
set in Venice arrival behold
and the Lido the same.
resort by the
German Nobel
Prize-winner % Johann
(18751955). It von Goethe
tells the story of The story goes
an ageing writer that this German
in dire need of literary giant (1749
relaxation who 1832) had his rst
visits the city, but in ever view of the sea
the wake of an from Venices Campa-
impossible infatuation Johann Wolfgang nile. Attracted by the
slowly succumbs to von Goethe lands south of the
the spreading cholera Alps, his rst visit
epidemic and dies. was an experience of personal
renewal, the account published

William Shakespeare
Although he never visited
as Italian Journey (17868).

Italy, let alone Venice, the English

Bard (15641616) used accounts ^
Lord Byron
Eccentricities such as a
by contemporary travellers for menagerie of foxes and mon-
the plots of The Merchant of keys, not to mention swimming
Venice and Othello, portraying a feats in the Grand Canal, made

50 For more on Shakespeares Verona See p124

the English Romantic poet (1788 Top 10 Background
1824) something of a legend
during his three-year sojourn
here. His Venice-inspired work
included The Two Foscari and the ! Venice, Jan Morris
An expert account of the

Venices Top 10
fourth canto of his autobiograph- delights of the city and its
ical work Childe Harolds maritime history.
@ Venice, an Anthology
Guide, Milton Grundy
& John Ruskin
The meticulous if
A guide around town, seen
through the eyes of famous
opinionated labour of writers.
love of this British art
critic (18191900), Ruskins Venice, editor
Arnold Whittick
The Stones of Venice, A very readable version of
John Ruskin was the rst work to Ruskins landmark work.
focus the attention of
visitors on the citys unique $ Death in Venice,
Thomas Mann
architectural heritage and Gothic A portrayal of desire and
style, as opposed to the art. The decadence amid the fog.
book was largely the outcome of
an 1849 visit. % Stone Virgin, Barry
A mystery involving the 15th-
* Henry James
The leitmotif of this US
century statue of a famous
novelist (18431916) was the
contrast between what he saw
as the spontaneity of the New
^ Casanova, or the
Art of Happiness,
Lydia Flem
World and the staidness of An inspired biography of the
Europe. Between 1872 and 1909 famous seducer (see p52).
he compiled Italian Hours, a
travel diary with plenty of com-
ments on Venice.
& Dead Lagoon,
Michael Dibdin
Detective Aurelio Zen
navigates Venices murky

( Ernest Hemingway
This US Nobel Prize winner
waters wrought with unease
and intrigue.
(18991961) experienced Italy
rst-hand as a volunteer * The Architecture of
Venice, Deborah
ambulance driver during World Howard
War I (recounted in A Farewell to An unbeatable architectural
Arms) and he was wounded near classic.
Treviso. Across the River and
into the Trees is set in Harrys ( Venice: A Maritime
Republic, Frederic
Bar (see p21). C. Lane
A comprehensive history of

) Charles Dickens
The great English novelist
the citys maritime prowess.

(181270) spent a brief period in ) Acqua

Alta, Donna
Venice during a tour of Italy, and From the best-selling mystery
the city inspired a dream series featuring detective
sequence in his work Pictures Guido Brunetti.
from Italy (1846).

Venices Top 10

Left Marco Polo Centre Daniele Manin Right Giovanni Casanova

Outstanding Venetians
! Marco Polo
Legendary Cathay and the $ Claudio Monteverdi
This late Renaissance
kingdom of the mighty Kublai madrigalist (15671643) is
Khan took pride of place in attributed with the introduction
explorer Marco Polos best-selling of the solo voice to theatre. His
account of his 20-year odyssey opera Proserpina Rapita was the
to the Far East, Il milione. Son of rst to be performed in Venice.
a Venetian merchant, Marco Polo After long periods at the court of
(12541324) is responsible for the Gonzagas, he accepted an
the introduction appointment at
of pasta and win- the Basilica San
dow blinds to the Marco and work-
western world. ed for the Scuola
Grande di San

@ Antonio
Rocco (see p81).

Vivaldi (1678
1741) was both %
John Cabot
Italian navi-
an accomplished gator Giovanni
musician and an Caboto, or John
inuential com- Cabot (145099),
poser. Of his 500 and his sons
concertos, The were authorized
Four Seasons is by Henry VII of
the best known, Prolic Venetian composer England to search
though 10 were Antonio Vivaldi for new lands
transcribed by with the aim of
J.S. Bach. Vivaldi spent extended furthering trade. Believing
periods teaching music at the himself on the northeast coast of
Piet home for girls (see p66). Asia, he discovered Newfound-
land in Canada and claimed it for

Giovanni Casanova
This marvellous romantic
England, opening up cod shing.

gure (172598) was variously a

diplomat, scholar, trainee priest, ^Elena Lucrezia Corner
adventurer, gambler, notarys It was inconceivable for the
clerk, violinist, womanizer, exile, church in 1678 that a woman
millionaire, writer and spy. should teach religion, so the
Casanova was imprisoned in the University of Padua awarded this
Doges Palace (see pp1215) on child prodigy and the rst woman
charges of being a magician, graduate (164684) a degree in
from where he effected an philosophy, instead of one in
infamously daring escape. theology to which she aspired.

& Daniele Manin
Organizer of the 1848
Top 10 Foreign
rebellion against Austrian rule,
the Venetian patriot (180457) is
commemorated by a statue in ! Greeks
Since 1498 the longest

Venices Top 10
Campo Manin. An independent surviving group, still active
republic was declared and with their own church.
survived 17 months of bombard-
ments and even cholera, conclud- @ Armenians
Fleeing Turkish invasion, in
ing with Manins exile to Paris. 1717 the close-knit religious
group was granted an island
by the Republic (see p116).
* Paolo Sarpi
When the pope excommuni-
cated Venice for insubordination, Dalmatians (Slavs)
Active traders whose boats
involving restrictions on church gave their name to the Riva
construction and the refusal to degli Schiavoni (see p101).
hand over two priests on criminal
charges, Sarpi (15521623) $ Turks
Sworn political enemies
resolved the rupture. A patriot and of Venice, the Republic still
theologian, he was an advocate rented them a trade centre
of division between State between 1621 and 1898.
and Church.
% Jews
The Spanish Inquisition
( This Venetian noblewoman
Caterina Cornaro triggered the move here for
many Jews expelled from
(14541510) married the king of other European countries.
Cyprus then allegedly poisoned
him, thus securing ^ Albanians
Calle degli Albanesi near
the strategic Piazza San Marco is named in
island for honour of this large 15th-
Venice. Her century community.
return to the
city was an & Germans
The former German trade
occasion of headquarters Fondaco dei
great pomp, Tedeschi attracted artists such
recalled to as Albrecht Drer.
this day in a
waterborne * British
Extended sojourns here
procession Queen of Cyprus, were mandatory for British
during the Caterina Cornaro upper classes during the
Regata 19th-century Grand Tour.
Storica (see p62). Cornaros
reward was the hilltown of Asolo. ( French
Impressionist Monet and
writers Thophile Gautier and

) Luigi Nono
This musician (192490)
Marcel Proust were attracted
to the city in the late 1800s.
made milestone progress in the
eld of electronic music, and an ) Americans
Leading literary gures
archive named after him was and patrons of the arts have
set up in Venice in 1993. paid long-term visits since the
A committed Communist, his 19th century.
works were often provocative.

Venices Top 10

Left Macello faade Right Cantieri Navali research centre

Historic Conversions
! Zecca
This elegant waterfront
rope were manufactured here.
The Gaggiandre docks and 16th-
mint was designed by Jacopo century sailmaking area were
Sansovino (see p45) and adapted into a theatre in 1999
completed in 1545, although a (see p101).
former mint had existed here
since 1277. Operations came to
a halt in 1870 and in 1905 the $ Molino Stucky
This impressive Hanseatic
building became the home of Gothic our mill dominating the
the Marciana Library. d Piazza S Giudecca Canal has been
Marco, S Marco 3 Map Q5 Closed to converted into a hotel (see p144).
the public Built between 1897 and 1920,
workers pale-faced from our

@ Cotonificio
Now occupied by the univer-
were a common sight until 1954
when operations ceased.
sity architecture faculty, these d Campo S Biagio, Giudecca 810 Map C6
former cotton mills are a ne
example of re-using the citys
derelict industrial buildings. The % Magazzini del Sale
The lagoons salt pans largely
mills and their 1,000 employees contributed to the Republics trade
were active from 1883 to 1960. monopoly and salt was stored in
d Fondamenta Bari, Dorsoduro 2196 these cavernous 14th-century
Map A4 Closed to the public warehouses. The buildings now
store boats. d Zattere,

The 300-m (980-ft) long
Dorsoduro 258266
Map D5 Open
Corderie building in the historic for exhibitions
Arsenale shipyards is the perfect
setting for the Biennale Arts
show held here since 1980
(see p101), but in the past
endless lengths of hemp

Arsenale faade, Castello

^ Deposito del Megio
Few children can boast such * Cantieri Navali
A state-of-the-art research
a historic home for their primary centre on coastal and marine
schooling. A stone lion presides technology now accounts for
over this former state grain store, another vast area of the

Venices Top 10
essential during the 1559 famine. Arsenale. The 16th19th-century
It was converted in 192122. shipyards, set amid a lush
d Calle del Megio, S Croce 1779 garden, were converted in 1991.
Map M1 Closed to the public d Arsenale, Castello 2737/F Map H3
Closed to the public

& Macello
The Neo-Classical former
( CIGA Warehouses
abattoir, its faade aptly decorated One of the citys best public
with bucranium (sculpted ox sports facilities is located in this
skulls), was restructured by the series of modest repositories,
university when it was granted including an indoor swimming
the premises in 1986. d Fondamenta pool, gym and bowls facilities.
di S Giobbe, Cannaregio 879 Map B1 d S Alvise, Cannaregio 3190 Map C1
Closed to the public Open daily (hours vary)
Admission charge

) Junghans Factory
New York-style loft apart-
ments have been created from an
old clock factory one of many
conversion projects taking place
on Giudecca. d Giudecca 373
Cotonicio, now a university faculty Map D6 Closed to the public

N AN Cannaregio ND am





E ov




Santa Croce E PAOLO
CAMPO San Polo
C a n a le PO N
di F TE L

us ina O
San Giorgio

della a LE
La Giudecca F. S A
N T' Giudecc . ZI

1000 yards 0 metres 1000

Share your travel recommendations on 55

Venices Top 10

Left Cantina Do Mori Centre Osteria alla Botte Right Un Mondo di Vino

Osterie (Wine Bars)

! Cantina Do Mori
Rows of copper polenta pots Osteria Ruga Rialto
Verging on rowdy, this
hang overhead in this dark, popu- traditional establishment turns
lar bar, billed as the citys oldest out crisp mounds of fried
osteria. The affable owners pour calamari and vegetables at
wine directly from huge demi- evening apritif time, when youll
johns and serve delicate postage have to elbow your way past the
stamp-sized ham and salad locals to reach the bar. Lunch
sandwiches (francobolli). d Calle and dinner are somewhat quieter
dei Do Mori, S Polo 429 Map N2 affairs. d Ruga Vecchia S Giovanni,
S Polo 692A Map N3

@ Italian wines can be enjoyed $ Osteria del Sacro

Un Mondo di Vino

at this converted butchers shop, e Profano

along with mouth-watering bar Well worth hunting out near
snacks such as insalata di mare Rialto, this rustic-looking osteria
(seafood salad) and regional is the haunt of international
cheeses. This place is well artists who happily mingle with
frequented by both locals and the locals. Wines from the
visitors, who spill out from the Veneto and Friuli are served with
bar and into the alleyway, glass traditional snacks such as uova
in hand. d Salizada S Canciano, con acciughe (hard-boiled egg
Cannaregio 5984A Map E3 with anchovy). d Ramo secondo del
Parangon, S Polo 502 Map P2

% Vinus
This stylish wine bar serves
a fantastic range of local and
national wines, all washed down
with elegant bar snacks made
from locally produced
ingredients, such as artichoke
crostini. d Campiello San Rocco,
Dorsoduro 3961 Map K4

^ Osteria alla Frasca

Billed as the site where
Titian kept his paints and
canvases, this tiny picturesque
bar serves drinks and snacks
on a vine-covered terrace in
summer. d Corte della Carit,
Al Bottegon Cannaregio 5176 Map E2

56 For Venice restaurants See pp589

& Enoteca do Colonne
Animated neighbourhood bar
Top 10 Drinks
with all manner of counter food
ranging from baccal (salted cod) ! Spritz
Unrivalled Venetian
on crusty bread or hearty musetto favourite of white wine with a

Venices Top 10
sausage, served with great splash of Bitter, Aperol or
Select (apritif brands) and a
smiles by the affable young shot of mineral water.
owners. Decent selection of
Veneto wines too. d Rio Terr del
Cristo, Cannaregio 1814C Map C2
@ Prosecco
Excellent naturally
sparkling dry white wine from
the hills around Conegliano
* You have to ght your way
Osteria alla Botte and Valdobbiadene.

through the locals here, attracted

by the lively Bellini
Smooth fresh peach juice
atmosphere and and sparkling Prosecco blend,
invented by Cipriani of Harrys
counter over- Bar (see p21).
owing with
drinkable local
wines and $ Red Wine
An ombra means a
appetizing small glass of house wine,
otherwise try quality Cabernet,
snacks such as Valpolicella or Amarone.
fried sardines
in breadcrumbs.
d Calle della Bissa, % White Wine
Soave and Pinot Grigio are
S Marco 5482 worthwhile alternatives to
house varieties.
Map Q3 Wine cask

^ Mineral Water
( Trattoria
Ca dOro alla Widely consumed in Italy,
either sparkling (con gas) or
still (senza gas). Tap water is
A young and enterprising
acqua dal rubinetto.
management team has taken over
this timber-panelled establishment
which has been serving & Fruit Drinks
These can be ordered as
mouth-watering counter snacks spremuta (freshly squeezed
(cicheti) such as crispy battered juice) or succo di frutta
(bottled nectars).
artichokes and quaffable wine for
longer than any of the regulars
can remember. d Calle del Pistor, * Coffee
Straight espresso, frothy
Cannaregio 3912 Map D2 cappuccino or caff latte in a
tall glass with hot milk.

) AlNotBottegon
far from the Accademia ( Hot Chocolate
Usually served in the
Bridge, join the locals at this winter months. An espresso
family-run specialist wine cellar milk-free version can be found
that serves excellent Prosecco at in good chocolate emporia.
the stand-up bar. Simple nibbles
to accompany the wine include ) After-dinner
mortadella sausage and panini A well-kept local secret
rolls lled with sopressa, a local concocted with lemon sorbet,
salami. d Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro vodka and Prosecco.
992 Map C5

For Venice nightspots See pp6061 57

Venices Top 10

Left Hotel Cipriani Right Do Forni

Places to Eat in Venice

! Hotel Cipriani
Restaurant guests are ferried Grand
Canal, Hotel

over to this hotel restaurant by Traditional Venetian and Italian

the Ciprianis private launch from cuisine of a very high standard,
Piazza San Marco for a memo- including freshly made pasta
rable gastronomic experience at with shrimp and seafood risotto,
two venues. The xed-price buffet accompanied by the best of
lunch will set you back a hefty European wines. The setting, a
sum, but the setting is wonderful. terrace on the Grand Canal, is
One speciality is tagliolini gratinati stunning. d Calle Vallaresso, S Marco
al prosciutto (ribbon pasta with 1325 Map Q6 041 520 02 11
ham, browned in the oven).
d Giudecca 10 Map E6 041 520 77 44
Closed NovMar $ Osteria Boccadoro
Delicate avours and fresh
ingredients feature in dishes

@ Reservations are essential at

Da Fiore such as ribbon pasta with
scallops and courgette (zucchini)
this sophisticated restaurant, owers. Beware the mousse al
where the owners base the days cioccolato its made with ve
menu on what is fresh at the different sorts of chocolate!
market. They might have papp- Romantically situated beneath a
ardelle con ostriche e zafferano vine-clad pergola. d Campo Widman,
(at ribbon pasta with oysters Cannaregio 5405 Map E3 041 521
and saffron), or moleche fritte 10 21 Closed Mon
con polenta (fried soft-shelled crab
with cornmeal). d Calle del Scaleter,
S Polo 2202/A Map M3 041 721 308 % Corte Sconta
This former osteria is now a
Closed Mon, Tue lunch, Aug, 3 weeks in trendy restaurant that serves
Dec No disabled access memorable seafood in a pretty
hidden courtyard
(corte sconta). Dont
miss pincia, the local
bread pudding, for
dessert. The house
wine is also
wonderful. Booking
ahead is essential.
d Calle del Pestrin,
Castello 3886
Map F4 041 522 70 24
Closed SunMon, Jan,
Grand Canal, Hotel Monaco

58 Recommend your favourite restaurant on

^ Do Forni
Right by Piazza San Marco,
Top 10 What to Eat
frequented by business people
and politicians. Customers enter ! Carpaccio
Raw beef sliced thin and
an imitation Orient Express sprinkled with akes of Parm-

Venices Top 10
dining car to be greeted by esan cheese or rocket (arugula).
displays of glistening seafood.
Book ahead. d Calle Specchieri, @ Sarde in Saor
Fried sardines marinated
S Marco 468 Map Q4 041 523 21 48 in a sweet and sour mixture
No disabled access of onions, currants and pine
nuts, invented for sailors at
sea for lengthy periods.
& Vini da Gigio
Tiny restaurant with a great
reputation. The owner prides Antipasto
di Mare
di Frutti

himself on his Italian and foreign Seafood platter of baby

wines to accompany dishes octopus, anchovies, shrimp or
whatever else is in season.
such as tagliata di tonno (fresh
tuna llet with herbs). Booking
is recommended. d Fondamenta S $ Prosciutto e Melone
The sweetness of wedges
Felice, Cannaregio 3628/a Map D2 of fresh rock melon is
041 528 51 40 Closed Mon & Tue, contrasted by the slightly
salty cured Parma ham.
3 weeks in Jan, 3 weeks in Aug No
disabled access
% Risotto di Pesce
Clams, mussels, shrimp

* LaSuperb
food and wine among
and assorted sh in a
heavenly creamy rice dish.
some remarkable paintings in
the past artists left their work as ^ Pasta con il Nero
di Seppia
payment for food, so the story Usually spaghetti, combined
goes. d Piscina di Frezzaria, S Marco with a rich sauce of tomato
1665 Map P5 041 522 11 75 Closed and cuttlesh, thoroughly
blackened with the ink.
Wed (MayOct)

& Fegato alla Veneziana

( Osteria di Santa Marina
Seafood is the star of the
Calves liver Venetian-style
cooked slowly with onions
and vinegar.
menu at this elegant restaurant
try baby octopus with red onion
and orange. d Campo S Marina, * Grilled Fish
Such as coda di rospo
Castello 5911 Map Q2 041 528 52 39 (monksh) or pesce spada
Closed Sun, Mon lunch, 2 weeks Jan, (swordsh) from the south.
2 weeks Aug
( Grilled Vegetables
Radicchio (red chicory) in
) Traditional restaurant with an
Trattoria alla Madonna winter, zucchini (courgettes)
and melanzane (aubergine/
inspiring display of fresh sea- eggplant) in summer, and
food: spaghetti con nero (with roasted peperoni (peppers).
cuttlesh ink sauce) and anguilla
fritta (fried eel). No bookings, so ) Tiramis
Dessert with a creamy
expect to queue. d Calle della sauce of eggs and mascar-
Madonna, S Polo 594 Map P3 041 522 pone between layers of sponge
38 24 Closed Wed, 25 Dec31 Jan drenched in coffee or liqueur.
No disabled access

For a guide to restaurant prices See pages 79, 85, 93, 99, 105, 113, 59
119 and 129
Venices Top 10

Left Le Bistrot de Venise Right Bacaro Jazz

! Paradiso Perduto
Call it animated or just plain
showing rugby and football
games. At Carnival and, of
noisy, but live ethnic music, course, St Patricks Day, this
owing wine and simple seafood is the place to be. d Campiello dei
are all part of the vibrant Testori, Cannaregio 3847 041 528 1439
atmosphere of Lost Paradise. Map D2
Always full to the (low) rafters,
the exuberant crowd often spills
out onto the canalside where $ Chet Bar
One of the many lively
tables are set up in spring and music bars that can be found in
summer weather permitting of Campo S Margherita. Chet Bar
course. d Fondamenta della is a popular joint and is, as the
Misericordia, Cannaregio 2540 Map D2 name clearly indicates, dedicated
to that great trumpet player

@ Centrale
A thoughtful use of candles
Chet Baker. d Campo S Margherita,
Dorsuduro 3684 041 296 0664
and soft music helps to create a Map K5 Closed NovMar
pleasant and welcoming ambience
to this lounge bar and restaurant.
They serve imaginative and % Casin Municipale,
Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi
sometimes somewhat innovative A magnicent start to an exciting
Mediterranean cuisine each evening a special ACTV
evening until 2am. d Piscina Frezzaria, launch from Piazzale Roma
San Marco 1659 041 296 0664 Map P5 transports hopeful clients down
the Grand Canal to the landing

The Irish Pub

This is a marvellous pub
stage of the beautiful
Renaissance palace, alias City
with a lively atmosphere. You can Casino, for a glittering night at
always count on action here the tables or the slot machines.
a concert of Irish music in the It is also a short walk from
cosy square, or screens the San Marcuola ferry stop.
d Campiello Vendramin, Cannaregio 2040
Map C2

^ Martini Scala-Club
Piano Bar
This chic locale is the only
place in Venice where you can
enjoy high-quality cuisine and
wine until the small hours of the
morning, while being entertained
by live music in air conditioned
Centrale comfort. No sleeveless

60 For Venice wine bars See pp567

tops or shorts, for men or
women, are allowed. d Campo S * LeAn Bistrot de Venise
eclectic programme of
Fantin, S Marco 1980 Map N5 events here never ceases to
Closed Tue entertain, from poetry readings
to art exhibitions and wine and

Venices Top 10
food events. An added bonus is
superb wine and a fascinating
menu of dishes based on
traditional 15th-century recipes.
d Calle dei Fabbri, S Marco 4685 Map
P4 041 523 66 51 Closed 2225 Dec

( Cantina Vecia Carbonera

However late in the evening,
you can turn up here and count
on live music, a good glass of
Casin Municipale wine and a crusty crostino top-
ped with anchovies or cheese.

& Bacaro Jazz

An enthusiastic multilingual
On summer evenings locals row
up to the waterside entrance.
welcome is extended to all d Ponte SantAntonio, Cannaregio 2329
visitors in this lively wine bar Map D2
that never seems to close. It
boasts almost non-stop service,
an extended happy hour from ) Piccolo Mondo
This tiny club, which does
47pm and a delicious assort- not open until 11pm, has a
ment of Spanish-style tapas snack laidback atmosphere. Entrance
meals to accompany the wine. close to the Accademia gallery.
d Salizzada Fontego dei Tedeschi, S d Calle Contarini Corf, Dorsoduro
Marco 5546 Map Q3 1056/A Map L6





N MARCUOLA Cannaregio


IS nde


D Gra

nal CAMPO S.


T. T










Santa Croce
San Polo




nd e CAMPO

G ra


CAMPO al A Castello




San Marco








RAFFAELE Dorsoduro San Marco

500 yards 0 metres 500

Venices Top 10

Left Carnival costumes Centre Vogalonga Right Regata Storica

Festivals and Events

! Carnival
An unmissable 10-day $ Festa del Redentore
People crowd on to all
extravaganza that takes over the available watercraft, decorated
city as a countdown to Lent. The with paper lanterns and greenery,
streets mill with costumed and for a feast of roast duck and
masked local nobility or crazily watermelon, followed by a
attired visitors. It gets off to a midnight reworks display. It all
ying start with the Volo della takes place near Palladios church
Colombina (ight of the dove), on Giudecca (see p45) to
when either an acrobat or a commemorate the end of the
cardboard dove is launched from 1576 plague. For those on foot,
the Campanile in Piazza San a temporary pontoon bridge
Marco, showering on-lookers stretches from the Zattere over
with confetti. The grand nale is the Giudecca canal. d Mid-Jul: Sat
the explosive Mardi Gras.
d FebMar, concluding on Shrove Tue, 40
days before Easter % Biennale Art Exhibition
The worlds leading inter-
national art bonanza is held on a

@ The word regatta originated

Regata Storica two-yearly basis. The leafy gar-
dens in eastern Castello are the
in Venice so what better place to principal venue, supplemented
enjoy the years most spectacular by the Corderie building in the
event? Ornately decorated boats Arsenale (see p54). d JunNov
propelled by costumed oarsmen
parade down the Grand Canal
bearing passengers dressed as
historical dignitaries. A series of
furiously contested regattas
follows. d 1st Sun in Sep

A colourful armada of rowing
craft from all over the world
embarks on a 32-km (20-mile)
non-competitive route around the
lagoons scattered islands. The
Long Row is a great experience
for both participants and
on-lookers, who line the Canale
di Cannaregio towards midday to
cheer on the breathtaking nal
stretch down the Grand Canal.
d May: Sun after Ascension Venice Marathon

^ Madonna della Salute
Venetians make a pilgrimage
Top 10 Sports in
to Longhenas church on the
Grand Canal (see p38) every win-
ter, to give thanks for the end of ! Rowing
Immensely popular

Venices Top 10
the 1630 plague. The area Venetian pastime practised
assumes a festive atmosphere standing-up. Join the oldest
club Canottieri Bucintoro.
with stalls selling candy oss
d Zattere, Dorsoduro Map D5
and balloons. d 21 Nov

@ Cycling
& One of the worlds most
Venice Marathon Illegal in Venice itself
though youll see kids zoom-
ing around. Rent a bike on the
beautiful marathon routes. Run-
Lido from Bruno Lazzari.
ners from all parts of the globe d Gran Viale 21/B Map H2
begin this classic 42-km (26-mile)
race at Villa Pisani on the Brenta
waterway, cross the causeway to
Yachtsmen gather at the
marina on San Giorgio
Venice, the Zattere and San
Maggiore island.
Marco, and nish near the public
gardens in Castello. d Late Oct
$ Swimming
Head for the Lido, or the
crowded indoor pools at
* Su e Zo per i Ponti
Anyone can take part in this Sacca Fisola and SantAlvise.
d Map C1
leisurely non-competitive walk or
run up and down the bridges.
A variety of ofcial routes can % In-line Skating
There is a small rink at
be followed, and all participants SantElena in Castello,
otherwise stick to the Lido
receive a medal on nishing.
pavements (see p115).
d Late Mar/Apr: 4th Sun in Lent

^ Golf
( Head for the Riviera di San
La Sensa The well-reputed 18-hole
course at the Alberoni is on
the south of the Lido.
Nicol at the Lido (see p115) to
d Map H2
watch this ancient ceremony
of Venice wedding the Sea.
A costumed doge casts a ring & Tennis
The Lido has the only
into the sea amid a procession courts available to visitors.
of celebratory boats. Symbolizing d Lungomare G Marconi 41/d
Map H2
Venices maritime supremacy,
La Sensa has been staged since
Venice took Istria and Dalmatia in * Jogging
The citys stone paving
AD 997. d May: Ascension Day doesnt do wonders for your
knees, so try the city parks.

) Festa di San Rocco

The feast day of St Roch, ( Gyms
Private gyms with state-
the French saint adopted by the of-the-art equipment can be
confraternity for alleviating the found in the Yellow Pages.
15767 plague, is celebrated
each year at the Scuola Grande ) Football
The home team Venezia
di San Rocco (see p81). A mass plays at SantElena stadium
and evening concert conclude most Sundays. d Map H2
the festivities. d 16 Aug

Venices Top 10

Left Play area at Parco Savorgnan Centre Snorkelling at the Lido Right Ferry trip

Places for Children

! Play Areas
Children tired of art and Doges Palace Prisons
and Armoury
architecture can release their Children are thrilled by the spooky
energy at well-equipped play- labyrinth of narrow passageways
grounds with slides, swings and through the palaces erstwhile
frames at Parco Savorgnan near prisons, and its fun deciphering
Ponte delle Guglie in Cannaregio the grafti scratched on the walls
and the fenced-in waterfront by inmates over the centuries. In
park at Giardini in Castello (see the armoury, hunt out the unusual
p102). The vast shady green child-sized suit from the 16th
expanse of SantElena even century, along with the protec-
boasts a modest skating rink and tion for horses (see pp1215).
an articial climbing wall. Other-
wise make friends with the city
kids as they kick footballs or $ Museo Storico Navale
Easily the best city museum
cycle around Campo San Polo for children, this three-oor haven
(see p81) of an afternoon. of shipbuilding includes Chinese
junks and exhibits from World

@ Ferry Trips
Restful for adults, exciting
War II, such as the famed
torpedoes guided by Italian Navy
for youngsters, the varied boat divers, responsible for sinking
lines are an ideal way for families British warships (see p41).
to appreciate the joys of the city.
Get older children to plan trips
on the route maps but avoid the % Museo di Storia Naturale
The star of the marvellous
outside seating on the vaporetto natural history museum is a
with toddlers. For an extended 3.6-m (12-ft) tall and 7-m (23-ft)
trip, take the majestic double- long skeleton of the dinosaur
decker motonave over to Lido Ouranosauris nigeriensis, dis-
and Punta Sabbioni (see p135). covered in the Sahara Desert by
the explorer Giancarlo Ligabue.
Dont miss the aquarium.
d Salizzada del Fondaco dei Turchi, S
Croce 1730 Map L1 041 275 02 06
Open 10am4pm SatSun. Due to
restructuring, some displays are
temporarily closed Free admission.

^ Glassmaking
Magic moments are guaranteed
as children are transxed by
Glassmaking demonstration in Murano skilful craftsmen blowing blobs

of molten glass into ne vases,
or moulding coloured rods into ( Laboratorio Blu Bookshop
Just off the main Cannaregio
myriad animal shapes. Small canal is this delightful bookshop
workshops are dotted all over dedicated to youngsters. One
Venice, while Murano has more stand is packed with illustrated

Venices Top 10
large-scale furnaces demonstra- childrens books in English, audio
tions are free, on the condition cassettes and games. Kids love
you stroll through the showroom crawling into the cubby hole to
afterwards (see p109). enjoy their purchases. d Ghetto
Vecchio, Cannaregio 1224 Map C1

& Peggy Guggenheim

041 715 819

Every Sunday the museum hosts

Art4Family free educational ) The Disney Store
Youngsters are greeted by
workshops in English and Italian, Mickey Mouse on a bridge, while
run by artists and students from Donald Duck shes an old boot
the Venice Academy of Fine Arts. out of a canal. Usual Disney fare
For children from 4 to 10 years and is on sale. d Campo S Bartolomeo,
their parents. Advance booking S Marco 5257/98 Map P3
essential (see pp345).

* Visiting the Lido

If the museums
and galleries are
beginning to tire, take
younger children to
the Lido to let off
steam. The free
beaches offer hours
of fun and not just in
the summer. Bikes
can also be hired
(see pp11417). The Disney Store

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Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 65

Venices Top 10

Left La Fenice plaque Centre Malibran Theatre Right Goldoni Theatre

Entertainment Venues
! LaWorld-famous
opera and
highlights from the Venice Film
Festival. d Videoteca Pasinetti: Salizzada
concert performances are back San Stae, Santa Croce 1991 Map M1
at this glorious theatre, re- 041 524 13 20
inaugurated in December 2003 Venice Film Festival: 041 521 87 11
(see p73). Productions range
from Verdi and Rossini to
contemporary composers.
d Tickets from Vela at Piazzale Roma or $ Teatro Goldoni
One of the oldest theatres in
the theatre (041 2424) Map N5 the city, dating from the 17th century. It acquired its present
name in 1875 in honour of the

@ Teatro Malibran
In a quiet square near Rialto
18th-century playwright Carlo
Goldoni (see p50). An excellent
stands the gleaming and range of international plays is
splendid Malibran Theatre, re- performed in Italian NovMay.
inaugurated in 2001 to take on d Calle del Teatro, S Marco 4650/B
part of the Fenices productions. Map P4 Ticket sales: 041 240 2011
Dating back to 1678 as Teatro
Grimani, it was renamed after the
19th-century Spanish mezzo- % Vivaldi Concerts
Inspiring performances of
soprano Maria Malibran. Vivaldis music can be enjoyed
d Tickets as La Fenice Corte del Teatro just off Piazza San Marco. Tickets
Malibran, Cannaregio Map Q2 are available at agencies, hotels
or directly from the palace.

Films in English
The Venice Film Library
d Ateneo San Basso, Piazzetta dei Leoncini,
San Marco Map Q4 041 528 28 25
occasionally shows lms in or www.
English during the winter. In late
summer, the outdoor cinema in
Campo San Polo shows
^ Chamber Music
While listening to the
uplifting notes of Vivaldis Four
Seasons, or a masterpiece from
Bach or Benedetto Marcello
take a moment to unwind and
relax from the days hectic
sightseeing. The Church of San
Vidal was rebuilt around 1700
and has a spacious interior.
d Campo S. Vidal, S Marco 2944
Map M6 041 277 05 61 www.
Venice Film Festival

66 For Venice nightspots See pp6061

& Concerts in Costume
Youthful but expert singers
Top 10 Films set in
and musicians perform comic
operas at the Scuola dei Carmini
(see p32). It makes for a ! Indiana Jones and the
Last Crusade (1989)

Venices Top 10
memorable evening. d Scuola Hero Harrison Ford heaves
Grande dei Carmini, Campo S Margherita, up the oor in the church of
San Barnaba.
Dorsoduro Map J5 041 0994371
@ Moonraker (1979)
Roger Moore as James

* The Venice Carnival Show

A highly entertaining and
Bond steers a gondola-
cum-hovercraft across Piazza
San Marco in a thrilling chase.
educational show celebrating the
story of Venice. It starts with a
buffet dinner at 7:30pm. d Campo Death in Venice (1971)
Viscontis lm starring
S Gallo, S Marco 1092 Map P5 041 241 Dirk Bogarde is now as
19 43 classic as the Thomas Mann
novel on which it is based
(see p51).

$ Dont
Look Now

This thriller, with Donald

Sutherland and Julie Christie,
will keep you awake at night.

% The Merchant of
Venice (2004)
Starring Al Pacino as a
brilliant Shylock.

^ Eve (1962)
Joseph Loseys black-
and-white classic starring
Teatro Fondamenta Nuove temptress Jeanne Moreau.

& Senso (1954)

( Auditorium
Santa Alida Valli betrays family
and country for an Austrian
This converted cinema regularly ofcer in another Visconti lm.
stages live ethnic and other
music free! The programme is * Fellinis
generally posted on the door. Donald Sutherland walks
d Campo S Margherita, Dorsoduro 3689 around a fantasized version
Map K5 041 234 99 11 of Venice in this Fellini lm.

) Teatro Fondamenta Nuove ( Everyone Says I Love

You (1996)
Formerly a lumber store, Woody Allen literally runs in
since 1993 the premises have to Julia Roberts as they both
been buzzing with experimental jog through the city.
theatre and contemporary dance.
New tech music and off-beat ) The Wings of The
Dove (1997)
lms are also on the avant garde Helena Bonham Carter stars
programme. d Fondamente Nuove, in the lm version of Henry
Cannaregio 5013 Map E2 041 522 44 98 James Venetian story.

Venices Top 10

Left Luigi Bevilacqua Centre Venini Right Nardi

Shops in Venice
! Mondonovo
Venices most original papier-
shoes. The Bevilacqua family has
been weaving precious fabrics by
mch masks. A monstrous hand since the 1700s and you
bears head might hang alongside can see the ancient looms they
a gloating Tutankhamun, but the continue to use today (see also
speciality is Carnival costumes. p77). d Campiello della Comare,
Masks for the lm Eyes Wide S Croce 1320 Map L2
Shut (2000) were made here.
d Rio Terr Canal, Dorsoduro 3063
Map C5 $ Venini
Dont expect Venetian glass
animals here, rather innovative

@ Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly

Nardi platters and vases of great
simplicity and style. Since its
and Elton John have all happily 1921 beginnings, Veninis award-
spent time (and more) in this winning design team has
plush boutique of glittering included top names Carlo Scarpa
marvels. Three generations of and Gae Aulenti. d Piazzetta
craftsmen have thrilled those who Leoncini, S Marco 314 Map Q4
can afford it with breathtaking
pieces, such as their blackamoor
brooch in ruby and gold or % Attombri
Beautifully crafted bead
diamond and platinum. d Piazza S jewellery is made on the
Marco 69, S Marco Map Q5 premises by brothers Stefano
and Daniele. Pieces range from

Luigi Bevilacqua
Shimmering velvets,
delicate earrings to in-your-face
amboyant necklaces.
damasks and silks are fashioned d Sottoportico degli Ora, S Polo 74
into wonderful bags, clothes and Map P3

Traditional Venetian masks on display in Mondonovo

68 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

^ Rizzo
Feel like jet-black tagliatelle
Top 10 Souvenirs
ribbons made from cuttlesh ink
for dinner? Or perhaps the blue ! Glassware
Impress your guests back
Curaao variety or the multi- home with a genuine Murano

Venices Top 10
coloured Carnival masks? These chandelier or perhaps a
milleori paperweight.
are only a taste of more than 40
imaginative pasta shapes by
Rizzo a marvellous souvenir. @ Gourmet Food
For something
d Salizzada S Giovanni Grisostomo, authentically Italian but
Cannaregio 5778 Map Q2 intrinsically Venetian, try extra
virgin olive oil avoured with
chilli peppers, bottled red
& Coin Department Store
Its impossible to walk past
chicory paste or pasta in the
shape of gondolas and masks.
the stylishly dressed windows of
Coin without being impressed.
Centrally located close to the
The essential guaranteed
souvenir of Venice, sold at the
Rialto GPO, this branch of Italys ubiquitous street stalls.
largest department chain has an
elegant clothing range and
sleekly designed homeware.
$ Masks
A mind-boggling array of
masks, traditionally made for
d Salizzada S Giovanni Gristomo,
Carnival in papier-mch,
Cannaregio 5785 Map Q2 ceramic and even leather.

* Rubelli
Venices past contact with
% Marbled Paper
Swirls of pastel hues can
be used for covering books or
the Orient is conjured up by the simply as elegant wrapping
sumptuous handmade furnish- paper for gifts.
ings in this showroom. A blend
of computer technology and
traditional techniques is used for
^ Beads
All manner of beads, from
frosted glass, ceramic or the
the brocades, damasks and silks. traditional colourful murrhine
d Campiello del Teatro, S Marco 3877 mosaic-style, can be found.
Map M4

& Italian
Wine and

( Photo albums and address

Paolo Olbi
Take advantage of lower
prices and taxes by stocking
books in rainbow-coloured up on locally produced wines.
marbled paper and leather at
reasonable prices, by one of the
original craftsmen in Venice.
* Fabric
Lace is the most Venetian
of materials, but attractive
d Calle della Mandola, S Marco 3653
linens and velvets are also
Map N4 good value.

) Venice Pavilion Bookshop

Excellent multilingual selec-
( Silverwork
Photo frames, letter
openers and teaspoons make
tion of literature and miscellany lovely gifts for friends.
focusing on Venice. Also serves
as a tourist information point and
box ofce for cultural events. ) Clothes
All the top fashion names
d Palazzetto Selva, Giardinetti Reali, can be found in Venice.
S Marco 2 Map Q5

Share your travel recommendations on 69

San Marco

San Polo and
Santa Croce
The Northern Lagoon
The Southern Lagoon
and Venice Lido
Padua, Vicenza and
Around Town San Marco

Left Busy streetlife in Campo San Bartolomeo Right Designer shopping on Mercerie

San Marco
(district) named after the citys patron saint is
bounded by the Grand Canal on all but one side,

which explains the number of stately palaces in the

area. It revolves around Piazza San Marco and the majestic Doges Palace
(see pp1215), the political and legal core of the city until the 18th century.
Running off the square are the Mercerie and Calle Larga XXII Marzo, offering
wall-to-wall designer shopping. But beyond that San Marco has a residential
air, with a great range of places to eat. Dont hesitate to wander down minor
alleyways: surprises include unusual wellheads and many craft workshops.

1 Piazza San Marco 6 Campo San Bartolomeo
2 Mercerie 7 Chiesa di San Mois
3 Campo Santo Stefano 8 Palazzo Grassi
4 Teatro La Fenice 9 Museo Fortuny
5 Scala Contarini del 0 Chiesa di Santa Maria
Bovolo del Giglio
Shop on the Mercerie


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! Piazza San Marco
See pp1619. $ Teatro La Fenice
Long masked in scaffolding
since a 1996 arson attack left it

@ Mercerie
The expensive elegance of
gutted, the historic Phoenix
theatre has nally risen from

Around Town San Marco

Venice is most evident on this the ames. Selvas 1792 opera
main thoroughfare linking Rialto house, just one of 17 theatres at
and Piazza San Marco. Mercerie the time, has staged countless
means haberdashers, although world premieres including
these days it is the realm of the Rossinis Tancredi in 1813, ve
designer fashion outlets who are operas commissioned of Verdi,
able to afford the sky-high rents. most notably Rigoletto and La
Just below the ornate Torre dell Traviata, and more recent works
Orologio archway is a sculpted by Stravinsky and Luigi Nono.
female gure commemorating a Legendary divas Maria Callas and
housewife who lived here rent- Dame Joan Sutherland have
free as a reward for inadvertently sung in this glorious setting.
knocking a mortar into the street, d Campo S Fantin Map N5
killing a revolutionary leader and See p66 Daily guided tours
thus halting the short-lived
Baiamonte Tiepolo revolt in 1310.
d Map Q4 % Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Often used as a lm set,
this ne 15th-century palace

This spacious, elegant

Campo Santo Stefano with its beautiful external snail-
shell staircase (bovolo means
square is edged by cafs with snail in Italian) is squeezed into
smart, white-jacketed waiters a diminutive square. Following
and colourful awnings. Its most careful restoration, visitors can
regular inhabitants seem to be now climb the winding steps
unhurried pigeons, pecking via ve oors of loggias to a
around the ornate lampposts, dome sheltering a splendid
and local children at play belvedere. From here there are
watched over by nannies and magical views over the citys
doting grandparents. Pride of rooftops.d Corte dei Risi, S Marco
place in the centre goes to a 4299 Map P4 Currently closed
statue of Niccol Tommaseo, for restoration
patriot and author of
the Risorgimento.
At Carnival time a
lively outdoor craft
market is held here,
although it is not
quite up to the level
of merry-making seen
here in olden times
when there were
magnicent balls
and bull-ghts. The
latter events ended
in 1802 when a
stand collapsed on
spectators. d Map M5 Antiques shop, Campo Santo Stefano

Glassmaking aristocratic Fini family, who laid
Venetian glasswork exquisitely out 30,000 ducats for the job.
decorates chandeliers, chalices d Campo S Mois, S Marco 4299 Map
and mirrors and has long been in P5 Open 9:30am12:30pm daily Free
Around Town San Marco

demand the world over, especially

during the Golden Age of the 16th
century. Although the industry
moved to Murano in 1295 as a
* Palazzo Grassi
Set on the Grand Canal, the
palace dates back to 1740 when
safety measure against re
a wealthy merchant family
decreed by the Great Council,
many furnaces around the San commissioned Giorgio Massari
Marco district welcome visitors. to design the building. It is now
home to the Francois Pinault
collection, with contemporary

^ Campo San Bartolomeo

The statue of celebrated
masterpieces by Koons, Pistoletto
and Hirst. It is located alongside
Venetian playwright Carlo the picturesque tree-shaded
Goldoni scrutinizes the milling Campo San Samuele, which
crowds on this crossroads features a graceful Veneto-
square. Strategically placed for a Byzantine bell tower. d S Samuele,
host of inviting bars crammed S Marco 3231 Map L5 Open 10am7pm
into the alleys radiating off it, WedMon
San Bartolo serves as the
fashionable hang-out for the
citys young and trendy. ( Museo Fortuny
Flamboyant Spanish artist
The northern end is occupied and theatrical stage designer
by the main post ofce, once Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo
home to Venices German (18711950) adopted Venice as
community (see p53). They his home and muse, and
worshipped in the Chiesa di transformed this ponderous
San Bartolomeo (open 10am 15th-century palace in Gothic-
noon Tue, Thu & Sat; free Venetian style into an exotic
admission). d Map P3 atelier. The building retains
rooms and structures created by

& Chiesa di San Mois

So overloaded was the 1668
Fortuny himself and visitors can
admire Fortunys sumptuous
faade of this church with velvets, renowned the world
ostentatious Baroque stone over, his famous
decorations that several statues
were removed in 1878 to
save it from collapse.
It has been blasted by
critics as the height
of architectural folly
and by John Ruskin
(see p51) as one of
the basest examples
of the basest school
of the Renaissance.
Devoid of religious
symbols, it is given
over wholly to the
glorication of the Palazzo Grassi faade

A Day in San Marco
Visit the Doges Palace on
Piazza San Marco rst (see

Around Town San Marco

pp1215), arriving early to
t it all in. Must-sees are
the Sala del Senato, Sala
del Maggior Consiglio,
prisons and the Bridge of
Sighs. Then take a break
for coffee in the modern
caf in the palaces former
stables and watch the
gondolas glide past the
glassed-in doorway.

Time your visit to Basilica

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio San Marco (see pp811)
for midday, to catch the
mosaics illuminated by
pleated silk dresses, lamps, huge spotlights so they
paintings, a remarkable stage glitter to their utmost. The
curtain and fascinating 19th- tiles were laid at angles to
catch the light.
century photographs.
d Campo S Benedetto, S Marco 3780 Lunch at Harrys Bar, as
Map N4 Open 10am6pm WedMon Hemingways hero did in
Admission charge Across the River and into
the Trees. Order the
carpaccio, wafer thin slices
) Chiesa di Santa Maria
del Giglio
of raw beef, invented here
by Cipriani (see p21).
Opening on to a lovely square
next to the Grand Canal, this Afternoon
church is a further example of The Mercerie (see p73) is
Venetian Baroque extravagance. shoppers heaven, packed
Commissioned by the Barbaro with international high
fashion stores from
family, its faade exalts their
Benetton to Cartier, and
generations of maritime and classy souvenir glass and
political triumphs, with crests, hand-crafted paper
galleys and statues. Relief maps workshops. For yet more,
along the lower plinth depict cross over to Calle Larga
XXII Marzo for designer
Zara, Candia, Padua, Rome, Corfu
delights such as Bulgari
and Spalato, the fortied cities jewellery and Frette linens
where many family members (see p76).
had served. Works of art inside
the church include Venices only Return to Piazza San
Marco (see pp1619) in
canvas by the Flemish artist
time to enjoy the views
Rubens, depicting a curvaceous over Venice and the lagoon
Madonna and child. Tintorettos from the Campanile at
contributions are the Evangelists dusk. At ground level
adorning the doors of the organ. again, its time for a Bellini
apritif at Caff Florian
d Campo S Maria del Giglio, S Marco
(see p17) to watch the
3231 Map N6 Open 10am5pm Mon sun set over the faade of
Sat, 15pm Sun Admission charge the basilica.

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 75

Around Town San Marco

Left Frette Centre MA.RE Right Cartier

Designer Boutiques
! Frette
Since 1860 Frette has been ^ Cartier
World-famous French jewel-
importing top-grade cotton from lers whose fortress-like premises
Egypt and transforming it into gleam with gold, precious stones,
towels and custom-made house- handbags and watches. d Mercerie
hold linen. d Calle Larga XXII Marzo, S Zulian, S Marco 606 Map Q4
S Marco 2070/A Map P5

@ Contemporary glass at its

LIsola Carlo Moretti & MaxMara
For more than 50 years this
family company has been
innovative best, exhibited in designing fashionable clothes and
galleries all over the world. accessories for city girls. d Campo
Morettis trademarks are paper S Salvador, S Marco 5033 Map P3
cone vases, tumblers and huge
sculptures. d Campo S Mois,
S Marco 1468 Map P5 * Bulgari
Striking contemporary jewel-
lery, watches, accessories and

This delightful boutique

MA.RE Rosenthal porcelain. d Calle Larga
XXII Marzo, S Marco 2282 Map P5
stocks the divine Salviati glass
creations. First and foremost are
the delicately etched modern ( Fratelli Rossetti
Superb Italian elegance from
wine glasses. d Via XXII Marzo, this 50-year-old family-run rm,
S Marco 2088 Map P5 known worldwide for shoes,
belts, bags and jackets. d Campo

$ Ottico Fabbricatore
This small store offers an
S Salvador, S Marco 4800 Map P3

array of exclusive designer

glasses with frames made from ) Fendi
Flamboyant frocks and shoes
buffalo horn and titanium, as well for special occasions and crazily
as blown-glass vases and lamps. beaded bags, all with the
You can also get cashmere double-F Fendi mark. d S Mois,
clothing in 70 colours and luxury S Marco 1474 Map P5
bags in various leathers. d Calle
dellOvo, S Marco 4773 Map P3
CAMPO Rialto

% Epicentro
Alessi kettles, heart-shaped
Sant' Angelo

hot-water bottles, designer garlic San PIAZZA

presses youll nd the perfect MARCO

gift here for friends who think CAMPO

they have everything. d Frezzeria, Santa Maria Vallaresso-
del Giglio San Marco
S Marco 1728/A Map P5

76 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

Around Town San Marco
Left Leon dOro Centre Legatoria Piazzesi Right Bevilacqua

Craft Shops
! Venetia Studium
Exquisite hanging silk lamps & Valese Fonditore
The Valese family foundry
of Fortuny design are reproduced has been creating animals, lamps
with hand-painted patterning and and door knockers in brass and
glass beading. d Calle Larga XXII bronze since 1913. Examples of
Marzo, S Marco 24036 Map P5 their work can be found in
Buckingham Palace and The

@ Legatoria Piazzesi
The only people in Venice
White House. d Calle Fiubera, S
Marco 793 Map Q4
still printing paper with hand-cut
blocks, as well as binding books.
d Campiello della Feltrina, S Marco 2511 * Bevilacqua
Small branch of this historic
Map N6 fabric shop. Velvet and silk cush-
ions and tapestries are a feast for

Polar bears, squirrels and
the eyes (see also p68). d Campo S
Maria del Giglio, S Marco 2520 Map N5
kangaroos are but some of the
200 glass animals this wonderful
shop boasts. Orchestras of tiny ( LeA kaleidoscopic
Botteghe della Solidarit
display of
glass musicians ll the shop handwoven shawls from India
window. d Mercerie, S Marco 231 and musical instruments from
Map Q4 African countries are part of an
enterprise to guarantee artisans

$ Leon dOro
Commedia dellarte marion-
a just income. d Salizzada Pio X,
S Marco 5164 Map P3
ettes, musical puppet theatres
and glittering carnival masks for
sale or hire. d Frezzeria, S Marco ) Daniela Ghezzo Segalin
a Venezia
1770 Map P5 As well as the brocade slippers
and bizarre footwear with built-in

% Galleria Livio De Marchi

Crumpled boots and a rain-
toes, special order shoes are
also crafted here. d Calle dei Fuseri,
coat slung over a chair are S Marco 4365 Map P4
actually sculptures there are
even life-size wooden cars, &$032 3JBMUP
complete with engines. d Salizzada 6$132/2

S Samuele, S Marco 3157/A Map M5 4BOUh"OHFMP

^ Rigattieri
Ceramic enthusiasts must &$032

not miss this extraordinary shop 4BO


of beautiful pottery. d Calle dei 4BOUB.BSJB 7BMMBSFTTP

Frati, S Marco 3535/36 Map M5

Around Town San Marco

Left Devils Forest Pub Centre Bar al Teatro Right Le Caf

Bars and Cafs

! Pasticceria Zanin
The coffee and cake shop for ^ Caffetteria Doria
A friendly, standing-only
Venetians. The narrow bar only corner bar serving divinely rich hot
does counter service, so you chocolate perfect for winter, and
have to stand up for your refreshing sorbetto al caff in
cappuccino and croissant for summer. Vast choice of teas too.
breakfast or Campari soda in the d Calle dei Fabbri, S Marco 4578C Map P4
evening. Delectable ice cream in
summer. d Campo S Luca, S Marco
4589 Map P4 & LeHaveCafa fresh orange juice or
a cappuccino and pastry as you

@ No drinks or seating, but a

Pasticceria Marchini watch life go by in the square.
d Campo S Stefano, S Marco 2797
paradise for those with a sweet Map M5
tooth. Orange and pistachio
chocolates come in Venetian
mask shapes. d Spadaria, S Marco * Hostaria ai Rusteghi
Excellent wines from Friuli,
676 Map E4 Tuscany and the Veneto, served
with delectable titbits. d Campiello

Caff Brasilia
Tuck in to a huge fresh fruit
del Tentor, S Marco 5513 Map P3

salad smothered with yogurt or a

tramezzino sandwich in this quiet ( Rosa Salva
Enjoy melt-in-the-mouth fruit
side-alley caf. The coffees good tarts, exquisite pastries and
too. d Calle dei Assassini, S Marco 3658 Venices best panettone. d Ponte
Map N4 Ferai, S Marco 951 Map Q4

$ Bar al Teatro
Next door to the renowned ) Bar allAngolo
Tourists and locals enjoy this
Fenice Theatre (see p73), this great sandwich bar. Bag a table
legendary establishment offers outside for a well-earned coffee
outdoor seating on a patio. Other- or light lunch. d Campo Santo
wise go inside to the bar and Stefano, S Marco 3464 Map M5
munch a toasted sandwich.
d Campo S Fantin, S Marco 1916 Map N5 Rialto

% Devils Forest Pub

This pub sports a real red
Sant' Angelo

London phonebox, draught beers San CAMPO

and ales, light meals served until SANT ANGELO
midnight and even a dartboard STEFANO

and live music. d Calle dei Stagneri, Santa Maria Vallaresso-

del Giglio San Marco
S Marco 5185 Map Q3

78 For more Venice wine bars See pp567

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town San Marco

Left Ristorante allAngelo Right Rosticceria San Bartolomeo

Places to Eat
! Hostaria Masaniello
Marvellous southern Italian
a table outside. d Campo S Luca,
S Marco 4153 Map P4 041 522 11 80
eatery. The menu includes pasta, No credit cards Closed Sat & Sun
meat and sh, plus winning
desserts. d Campo S Stefano,
S Marco 2801 Map M5 041 520 90 03 & AlA 30-year
institution. Try the
Closed Tue, mid-Novmid-Dec bigoli in salsa (spaghetti with
anchovy and onion pure).

@ Ristorante alla Borsa

A great selection of wines
Outdoor seating. d Calle delle
Botteghe, S Marco 3447 Map M5
accompany dishes such as 041 528 93 36 Closed Sun, Aug
clams, mussels, tomatoes and
capers. d Calle delle Veste, S Marco
2018 Map N6 041 523 54 34 * Osteria San Marco
An exemplary wine list
Closed Wed accompanies the tasty bar snacks
and a small, but perfectly formed,

Ristorante allAngelo
A long-running favourite with
menu. d Frezzeria, S Marco 1610 Map
P5 041 528 52 42 Closed Sun
seating for 680. Try the risotto di
seppie (rice cooked with cuttle-
sh black ink sauce). d Calle Larga ( LaResembling
a caravel sailing
S Marco, S Marco 403 Map Q4 ship, the trestle tables are adorned
041 520 92 99 with pewter plates. Fish and
meat dishes. Good wine list. d Via

$ Rosticceria
San XXII Marzo, S Marco 2398 Map P5 041
520 89 01 No disabled access
Try the local favourite here,
mozzarella in carozza, a deep-
fried cheese sandwich. d Calle ) Acqua Pazza
Mediterranean cuisine,
della Bissa, S Marco 5424 Map P3 including Neapolitan-style pizza.
041 522 35 69 No disabled access d Campo SantAngelo, S Marco 3808/10
Map N5 041 277 06 88 Closed Mon,

% Try the bar snacks or treat

Ai Assassini Jan No disabled access

yourself to a table at this great Rialto

osteria near La Fenice. d Rio Terr
dei Assassini, S Marco 2695 Map N4 Sant' Angelo
041 528 79 86 Closed Sun

^ Leon Bianco SANT ANGELO

Great for a cheap lunch of STEFANO

pasta e fagioli (bean and pasta Santa Maria Vallaresso-

del Giglio San Marco
soup) or lasagne, at the bar or at

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 79

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town San Polo & Santa Croce

Left Scuola Grande di San Rocco Right Campo San Giacomo dellOrio

San Polo and Santa Croce

can be found in these neighbouring districts, at

the geographical heart of Venice, having grown

around the ancient core of Rialto where the rst inhabitants settled. Here,
glorious churches, landmark monuments and breathtaking palaces are all
saturated in history. Essential sights include Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
(see pp267), the Scuola Grande di San Rocco where Tintoretto
demonstrated his genius on sumptuous canvases, and the morning bustle of
Rialto market. The squares of San Polo and San Giacomo dellOrio are both
full of cafs and benches for resting weary feet.

1 Rialto Market 6 Scuola Grande di San
Giovanni Evangelista
2 Campo San Polo
3 Scuola Grande di San 7 Palazzo Mocenigo
Rocco 8 Giardino Papadopoli
4 Campo San Giacomo 9 Campo San Zan Degol
0 Ca Pesaro Museo di Arte
5 Chiesa di San Giacomo Orientale
dellOrio Interior detail, Scuola Grande
di San Rocco










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! Rialto Market
See pp289.
marvel of intertwined sculpted
stone wreaths and crouching
elephants dwarfed by admirable

@ Campo San Polo

This lovely square undergoes
columns. The Istrian stone facing
is embedded with a rainbow

Around Town San Polo & Santa Croce

a series of transformations, from medley of burgundy porphyry and
attractive theatre or dance area green and cream veined marble
during Carnival, to open-air inserts. Designed by Bartolomeo
cinema through the summer Bon in 1517 and added to by
months, and playground for Scarpagnino and other stone-
bicycle- and scooter-mad kids the masons, the imposing building
rest of the year. It has never with neighbouring church was
been particularly quiet it was home to one of the citys fore-
once a venue for bullghts and most confraternities, honoured
bird-netting, extravagant parties with an annual visit by the Doge.
with reworks displays and even d Campo S Rocco, S Polo 2454 Map K4
crime. In 1548 Florentine writer Open 9:30am5:30pm daily (closed
in hiding Lorenzino de Medici 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 25 Dec) Admission
was stabbed to death here on charge
orders from the great Cosimo
de Medici. It was punishment
for the assassination of Cosimos $ Campo San Giacomo
cousin Duke Alessandro, which Named after either a bay tree,
brought the Medici line to an wolves or a canal depending
end. d Map M3 on your source, this picturesque
quintessential square, well off

Scuola Grande di
San Rocco
the beaten track, sports plane
trees, benches for relaxing and
Blinding in the morning sun patches of grass. Modest
thanks to its cleansing face-lift, surrounding palaces are home to
the early Renaissance faade of Venice Universitys architectural
this historic building, home to faculties. The laid-back air and
masterpieces by Tintoretto, is a abundance of eateries and coffee
shops make it very inviting, and
theres no lack of subjects for
photographers or artists.
d Map L2

% Chiesa di San Giacomo

On no account miss this unusual
church. Founded in the 9th
century, its Latin-cross shape
boasts a marvellous 15th-century
wood-beamed ceiling and a
forest of colourful granite and
black limestone columns from
the Middle East, several of them
loot from the Crusades. The oor
merits close scrutiny for its
multitude of fossils, while
Chiesa di San Rocco memorable paintings include

The Venetian Scuole (literally
& Palazzo Mocenigo
An 18th-century patrician
schools) were charitable palace whose richly furnished
institutions of medieval origin, and frescoed rooms also have
Around Town San Polo & Santa Croce

almost Masonic in organisation. showcases of historic fabrics

Some were religious-orientated and costumes including lavishly
lay confraternities while others embroidered waistcoats, fans,
functioned as trade guilds. Up to bodices and corsets. The
500 once operated, covering
Mocenigo family portrait
everyone from sausage-makers to
cobblers. Several have survived, gallery boasts a total of seven
namely San Rocco and Carmini. doges, topped in fame by
Alvise I, the victor at the
1571 Battle of Lepanto
Palma il Giovanes Descent of against the Turks, which was
Manna (158081), left of the main crucial for the Republic.
altar, and a painted crucix (1350) d Salizzada S Stae, S Croce 1992
attributed to Paolo Veneziano. Map M2 Open 10am4pm TueSun
d Campo S Giacomo dellOrio, S Croce 041 72 17 98 Admission charge
Map L2 Open 10am5pm MonSat,
15pm Sun Admission charge

^ Scuola Grande di San

Giovanni Evangelista
This erstwhile confraternity
headquarters with a high-
ceilinged upstairs hall is mostly
used for conferences. The
monumental staircase was the
work of Coducci and the
priceless reliquary contains a
fragment of the True Cross,
presented to the Scuola in 1369.
The spectacular Miracles of the
Cross cycle of paintings
commissioned of Gentile Bellini
and associates is now in the
Accademia Galleries (see
pp245). The exterior courtyard
has a ne sculptured portal Giardino Papadopoli
screen by Pietro Lombardo
mounted with an eagle to
symbolize St John. d Campiello * Giardino Papadopoli
A leafy haven of twittering
della Scuola, S Polo 2454 Map L3 sparrows and owerbeds close
Open 9:30am5pm daily 041 71 82 34 to Piazzale Roma and the car
Admission charge parks, these French-designed
gardens date back to the 1800s
when extravagant parties for the
nobility were held here among
exotic owers and rare animals.
Site of a demolished convent,
it belonged to Corfu-born
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista entrepreneurs, hence the Greek

A Day in San Polo
Drink your ll of Tinto-
rettos dynamic paintings

Around Town San Polo & Santa Croce

at the Scuola Grande di
San Rocco (see p81)
before wandering east to
Campo San Polo (see
p81). Coffee is a must in
Campo San Zan Degol the square, either at one
of the local bars or at the
attractive Antica Birraria
name. The public park was
La Corte (see p85).
greatly reduced in size when the
Rio Novo canal was excavated Its not far from here to
19323. d Map J3 Rialto Market (see pp28
9) for late morning bargains
of fresh produce, often
( Campo San Zan Degol
People usually hurry through
nearing half price when
stall-holders are in a hurry
this square en route to the bus to shut up shop. If this has
terminal, oblivious to its quiet worked up an appetite, a
charm. Interest starts with the Grand Canal-side lunch is
worth consideration at this
curious loggia on the western
point. There is a string of
canal edge, then theres the eateries spread along the
attractive plain church named for sun-blessed Riva del Vin,
San Giovanni Decollato or St close to the foot of Rialto
John the Beheaded, depicted Bridge. Each displays live
lobster and sh and multi-
with owing curly locks in a
lingual menus. In winter
stone bas-relief on the southern diners sit in see-through
wall. Inside the simple Veneto- tents so that views of the
Byzantine building are lovely canal and the procession
13th-century frescoes, an of boats are ensured.
unusual survivor for damp old Afternoon
Venice. d Map L1 Chiesa di San
Giovanni Decollato: open 10amnoon Make your way north and
MonSat explore the craft and gift
shops, lace, scarf and
T-shirt stalls along Ruga
) Ca Pesaro Museo di Arte
Rialto and the old red-light
area of Rio Terr Rampani
This impressive Oriental Art (see p48).
Collection is an eclectic mix of
19th-century curiosities from all Try to end up in pretty
Campo San Giacomo
over the Far East. Exhibits include dellOrio (see p81) for a
armour, porcelain and costumes, pre-dinner drink at Al
dainty lacquerwork boxes and Prosecco wine bar (Campo
musical instruments. The neigh- S Giacomo dellOrio,
bouring modern art gallery in S Croce 1503 041 524 02
22 Closed Sun). Ask for
monumental Ca Pesaro (see p20 the fruity red Refosco
and p41) has also been from Friuli and bocconcino
restructured. d Fondamenta Pesaro, con mortadella di cinghiale
S Croce 2076 Map N1 Open 10am6pm (bite-sized roll with wild
TueSun (until 5pm in winter), closed boar slice).
public hols Admission charge

Share your travel recommendations on 83

Around Town San Polo & Santa Croce

Left Gilberto Penzo Centre Sabbie e Nebbie Right Hibiscus

Craft Shops
! Gilberto Penzo
A visit to this workshop with ^ LaHandmade
beads, photo
beautiful wooden models of frames and Murano glass
traditional Venetian boats is a creations. d Campo SantAgostin,
real treat. Many craft come in S Polo 2279/B Map L3
DIY kit form. d Calle II dei Saoneri,
S Polo 2702 Map M3
& Sabbie e Nebbie
Tasteful boutique of pottery,

@ Mazzon le Borse
For 50 years Papa Piero has
candles and oddities from Japan
and Italy. d Calle dei Nomboli, S Polo
been personally making beautiful 2768/A Map M4
leather bags that last a lifetime.
Luckily his daughter Marta is
taking over the reins. d Campiello * Attombri
In an old covered passageway
S Tom, S Polo 2807 Map L4 long home to the Rialto Market
goldsmiths are two designer

The result of 20 years of
brothers who make limited-
edition jewellery. d Sottoportego
creating elaborate papier-mch degli Oreci, S Polo 74 Map P2
and leather masks and brocade
costumes for Carnival as well as
theatrical productions can be ( Hibiscus
A mix of Indian silk jackets,
appreciated in this spectacular platters from Morocco and
craft shop where the staff explain ceramic bowls by a Veneto artisan.
the signicance of pieces. d Calle d Ruga Rialto, S Polo 1060/61 Map P2
dei Nomboli, S Polo 2800 Map M4

$ Beautiful hand-bound diaries

Rivoaltus ) LaCeramica

Egg cups, teapots and platters

and address books can be are some of the delightful hand-
purchased from this tiny shop turned objects available here.
right on the Rialto bridge. d Sottoportego de la Siona Bettina,
d Ponte di Rialto, S Polo 11 Map P3 S Croce 2345 Map N2

% Michele Cicogna
Looking for a Blackamoor

lampstand, gilded cherub or a &$032

dresser adorned with Canaletto-
style scenes? This vast &$032
showroom akin to a museum &$032
is the workshop of a skilled 4BO
restorer. d Campo S Tom, S Polo 2867
Map L4

84 For what to buy in Venice See p69

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town San Polo & Santa Croce

Left La Zucca Right Taverna Da Baffo sign

Places to Eat
! LaDelicious
vegetarian fare, with & Antica Birraria
La Corte
the promise of unforgettable choc- Delectable pizzas named after
olate desserts. d Ponte del Megio, the citys bridges feature at this
S Croce 1762 Map L1 041 524 1570 ultra-modern eatery set in a
Closed Sun No disabled access former brewery. There is also a
pleasant, tree-shaded patio.

@ Osteria Banco Giro

A trendy restaurant-bar along
d Campo S Polo, S Polo 2168 Map M3
041 275 0570
the Grand Canal serving quality
Italian vintages and tasty nibbles.
d Campo S Giacometto, S Polo 122 Map * Gelateria Alaska
Unforgettable ice cream
P2 041 523 2061 Closed Mon made by a true maestro, Carlo.
This is the real deal 100 per

with youthful
cent natural gelato with ginger,
spearmint, pistachio, rose petals
clientele and great pizzas served and green tea! d Calle Larga dei Bari,
in the garden. d Sottoportego de la S Croce 1159 Map K2
Siora Bettina, S Croce 2337 Map N2
041 524 1169 Closed Wed, Thu L No
credit cards No disabled access ( Taverna Da Baffo
Seek out this tranquil square
for a light lunch with a glass of

$ A great canalside spot for

Il Refolo Belgian beer or crisp Friuli wine.
d Campo della Chiesa, S Polo 2346
inexpensive pizzas in a magical Map L3 041 520 8862
surrounding. d Campo San Giacomo
dellOrio, S Croce 1459 Map L2 041
524 00 16 Closed Mon, Tue L ) Pasticceria Rizzardini
Neighbourly old-style pastry
shop serving thick hot chocolate

% Osteria Mocenigo
Dont miss the cestino al
and divine fruit tarts, almond
slices and crunchy peanut toffee.
parmiggiano, a crisp fried pastry- d Campiello dei Meloni, S Polo 1415
cheese basket with prawns. Map M3 Closed Tue, Aug
d Salizzada San Stae, S Croce 1919 Map
M1 041 523 1703 Closed Mon Riva di Biasio
San Stae

^ Muro
Order steak or sh here

Antipasto Muro is a delicious

seafood selection. d Campiello dello CAMPO
Spezier, S Croce 2048 Map N2 041 ROCCO San
524 1628 Closed Tue No disabled San Tom


Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 85

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town Dorsoduro

Left Zattere Right Squero di San Trovaso


A DISTRICT OF CONTRASTS, Dorsoduro stretches

from the port, backed by an historic but rather
run-down zone long home to sailors and
fishermen, via the panoramic Zattere and Grand Canal, all the way to the
Punta della Dogana, a chic area of foreign consulates and wealthy
residences. Highlights for visitors include two foremost art galleries, the
Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (see pp345), crammed
with masterpieces ancient and modern, as well as Ca Rezzonico palace (see
p42) and magnificent churches, Santa Maria della Salute (see pp389) and
San Sebastiano, the latter famous for its wonderful Veronese canvases.
Literally the hard backbone of Venice as it was built on elevated islands of
compacted subsoil, Dorsoduro used to be sparsely populated. Today, as
home to most of the citys university premises, it is full of lively cafs, bars
and nightlife, concentrated in the market square, Campo Santa Margherita.

1 Accademia Galleries 6 Rio Terr dei Catecumeni
2 Zattere 7 Ex Ospedale degli
3 San Nicol dei Mendicoli
4 Squero di San Trovaso 8 Punta della Dogana

5 Chiesa di San 9 Chiesa dei Gesuati

Sebastiano 0 San Basilio Port Zone

San Nicol dei Mendicoli








Ca' Rezzonico CAMPO


Accademia Ponte
del Gglio
D o r s o d u r o dell'Accademia
C a n a l G ra n d e Salute
SAN VIO Colezzione
Peggy Santa Maria
San Baslio Z ATT
PO N Guggenheim della Salute
Canale di U NG




Zattere ER E
500 yards 0 metres 500

88 Preceding pages The domes of San Marco

! Accademia
See pp245.
Galleries though its active days may be
numbered. The combined
workshop-dwelling, its window

@ Zattere
This broad waterfront took
sills clad with geraniums, is
reminiscent of an Alpine chalet

Around Town Dorsoduro

its name from the rafts of timber as the rst occupants came from
(zattere) oated downstream the mountainous Cadore region.
from the extensive forests in the Though closed to visitors, it
northern Dolomite region which backs on to a canal (Rio di San
were managed by the Venetian Gervasio e Protasio) so its easy
Republic. The precious wood was to watch the goings-on as oar-
used for constructing palaces or propelled craft are brought in for
transformed into masts and the caulking and cleaning. d Map C5
like for the important shipbuilding
industry. The tall-masted sailing
ships and rowing boats which % Chiesa di San Sebastiano
This 16th-century church is a
used to moor here have been treasure trove of Paolo Veronese
replaced by motorized vaporetti paintings, and the artist devoted
and tourist launches, and most of his life to the specta-
nowadays the Zattere signies cular fresco cycle (see p39).
lovely lagoon views, perfect for a d Campo S Sebastiano, Dorsoduro 1907
day or evening stroll. d Map C5 Map B5 041 275 04 62 Open
10am5pm MonSat, 15pm Sun

San Nicol dei Mendicoli

This Veneto-Byzantine
Admission charge

church with an imposing square

campanile (bell tower) will be ^ Rio Terr dei Catecumeni
This reclaimed thoroughfare
recognized by lm buffs from the between the Zattere and Santa
chilling Nicholas Roeg lm Dont Maria della Salute is dominated
Look Now. Hidden away in a maze by a long building, now a school,
of narrow alleyways off the port where prisoners-of-war of the
zone, St Nicholas of the beggars Republic who did not profess the
has a pretty portico which doubled Christian faith would be held
as a shelter for the poor. Founded captive until they converted. This
in the 7th century, it is the second quiet backwater comes alive on
oldest church in Venice. In the 21 November when the Salute
1970s it was restored by the festivities are in full swing (see
Venice in Peril Fund, who water- p63). d Map D5
proofed the low oor.
d Campo S Nicol,
Dorsoduro 1907 Map A5
041 275 03 82 Open
10amnoon, 36pm
MonSat; 10amnoon Sun

$ Squero
di San

This is by far the

citys most famous
gondola repair and
construction yard, Ex Ospedale degli Incurabili faade

Around Town Dorsoduro

Boats moored at the San Basilio Port Zone

& ExIncurabili
Ospedale degli juvenile court. d 423 Zettere,
Dorsoduro 30135 Map C5 Closed
A cavernous, labyrinthine to public
construction that takes up a
lengthy stretch of the Zattere,
this erstwhile hospital has under- * Punta della Dogana
This exciting addition to the
gone vast renovations to adapt it Venetian contemporary art scene
for the Accademia Art Institute, is housed in an imposing,
which has transferred here to historic 17th-century customs
leave the historic galleries room building, the interior of which
for expansion (see pp245). The was designed by Japanese
building dates from the 1500s, architect Tadao Ando. It contains
founded to shelter women with important works, including those
incurable venereal diseases, and of British artists Rachel
later took in orphans and a trade Whiteread and the Chapman
school. Legend has it that St Brothers, and offers fantastic
Francis Xavier, ordained in views towards St Marks, San
Venice, was sent to serve here Giorgio and the two main canals
with his companions on orders of Venice. d Campo della Salute,
from Ignatius Loyola. More Dorsoduro 2 Map E5 041 523 16 80
recently, it has served as a 10am7pm WedMon Admission
Handmade in papier-mch and
glittery plaster, Venetian masks
( Chiesa dei Gesuati
Set right on the Zattere
are now strictly tourist fare, but waterfront close to the main
they were once essential attire ferry moorings, the Gesuati (also
during Carnival, allowing known as Santa Maria del
aristocrats to enjoy themselves in Rosario) is often confused with
anonymity. One unusual model, the Gesuiti (Jesuit) establish-
with a long curved nose, was
ment in Cannaregio. Taking over
used by doctors during plagues,
its cavity lled with perfumed from a minor religious order, the
herbs to lter the diseased air. Domenican friars had this church
constructed in Classical style in

1726 by Giorgio Massari. Inside Exploring Dorsoduro
the ceiling consists of three
uplifting frescoes (17379) by Morning
Tiepolo (see p44), which are The Accademia Galleries
considered among his best work, (see pp245) can be

Around Town Dorsoduro

portraying St Dominic amid overwhelming, so focus
on a selection of its
glorious angels in ight.
glories, but dont neglect
d Fondamente delle Zattere, Dorsoduro the Carpaccios and Bellinis.
864 Map C5 Open 10am5pm After all that art, have a
MonSat Admission charge relaxing coffee watching
the boats go by at Snack
Bar Accademia Foscarini, a
) San Basilio Port Zone
The vast docks occupy a
magical spot right at the
foot of Accademia Bridge.
good part of the northwestern (Rio Terr Antonio
continuation of the Zattere Foscarini, Dorsoduro 878/C
waterfront, and are usually 041 522 72 81
Closed Tue).
crowded with trucks and cars
queueing up to board the Next, head off east for a
ferries to Greece. The modern leisurely stroll, past Long-
terminal also handles the henas work of art, the
increasing cruise liner trafc, church of Santa Maria
della Salute (see p38), to
whereas the former industrial
Punta della Dogana, a
structures such as the cotton great spot for taking photos
mill and cold stores are being of Piazza San Marco. Turn
converted for use by Venice back in the direction of the
University (see p54). The Zattere and Giudecca Canal.
Lunch is recommended at
outstanding 17th-century pastel
Al Chioschetto, a snack
portrait artist Rosalba Carriera bar right on the waters
(see p25) was born in the San edge. (Zattere, Dorsoduro
Basilio parish and returned there 1406/A).
to die, destitute and totally blind, Afternoon
in 1757. d Map B5
Wander through to Campo
Santa Margherita (see
pp323) to the Scuola
Grande dei Carmini to
admire Tiepolos canvases,
then take time to admire
the architectural curiosities
of this fascinating square.

As sunset approaches
waste no time in
occupying a table for a
Spritz apritif at the trendy
bar Margaret DuChamp
(Campo S Margherita,
Dorsoduro 3019 041 528
62 55 Closed Tue). Its
hard to better this as a
place for people-watching,
and an added bonus is the
scent of jasmine that lls
the air as night falls.

Statue in Chiesa dei Gesuati

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 91

Around Town Dorsoduro

Left BAC Art Studio Right Totem-Il Canale Gallery sign

! 869
Paola Carraro transforms ^ Laboratorio Fustat
Stunning ceramics made on
paintings by modern masters the spot by talented Cinzia, who
Klee, Magritte and others into also runs pottery courses here.
hand-knitted sweaters and d Campo S Margherita, Dorsoduro 2904
dresses. Commissions are taken Map K5 335 604 56 75
so you can wear your favourite
painting. d Piscina del Forner,
Dorsoduro 869 Map D5 & Ca Macana
Mask-makers extraordinaire,
with life-size unicorns, pointy

@ Attractive and affordable

Bac Art Studio jester heads with bells and the
full Carnival range. d Calle delle
etchings and prints of Venice by Botteghe, Dorsoduro 3172 Map L5
artists Baruffaldi and Cadore. Buy
them framed if desired. d Piscina
del Forner, Dorsoduro 862 Map D5 * Madera
Uber-cool design store with
minimalist pieces in wood and

Bulky ancient beads, made

Totem-Il Canale Gallery glass, as well as gorgeous
ceramics. d Campo S Barnaba,
with vitreous paste and once Dorsoduro 2762 Map K5
traded in Africa, are now
precious antiques. Contemporary
African wood artworks as well. ( IlMiniatures
Mondo in Miniatura
of Venices
d Rio Terr Antonio Foscarini, Dorsoduro palaces and bridges modelled
878/B Map C5 by the craftsman who has
produced a 6 x 4 m (20 x 13 ft)

$ Signor Blum
Detailed jigsaw models of
model of the entire city.
d Calle della Toletta, Dorsoduro 1193
Gothic palaces, anked by wall Map L6
panels and painted toy gures all
individually handmade by this
co-operative of female artisans. ) Arras
Original hand-woven fabrics,
d Campo S Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2840 garments and bags in beautiful
Map K5 colours. d Campiello Squelini,
Dorsoduro 3235 Map L5

% Everyones Christmas tree

Augusto Mazzon
San Tom
needs one of the joyous gilded CAMPO SANTA Ca' Rezzonico
cherubs lovingly crafted by wood- CAMPO Accademia
carver and painter Danilo. He ANGELO

also makes picture frames and San

furniture. d Calle del Traghetto, Zattere
Dorsoduro 2783 Map L5

92 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town Dorsoduro

Left Gelateria Nico Right La Rivista

Places to Eat
! Gelateria Nico
Venices most renowned ice
cheese and wines. d Rio Terr
Foscarini, Dorsoduro 979/a Map C5
cream parlour. The local favourite 041 240 1425 Closed Mon
is giandiuotto da passeggio
hazelnut and chocolate ice cream
smothered in whipped cream. & Suzie Caf
This great bar, frequented by
d Zattere, Dorsoduro 922 Map C5 students, serves sandwiches,
041 522 5293 Closed Thu in winter pasta and salads. d Campo S Basilio,
Dorsoduro 1527 Map B5 041 522

@ Enjoy the superb waterside

Linea dOmbra 7502 Closed Sun in winter

setting here behind the landmark

Salute church. Specialities include * AiOneGondolieri
of the citys top
tuna tartare and sea bass in a restaurants, specializing in game
salt crust. d Ponte dellUmilt, Dorso- from the Veneto when in season.
duro 19 Map D5 041 241 1881 Extensive wine list. d Ponte del
Formager, Dorsoduro 366 Map D5

Easily the best pizza in

Pizzeria ai Sportivi 041 528 6396 Closed Tue, JulAug
Venice, with delicious toppings
of Treviso radicchio or porcini
mushrooms. Outdoor seating. ( Pasticceria Tonolo
One of the citys best pastry
d Campo S Margherita, Dorsoduro 3052 shops. Delicious, freshly baked
Map K5 041 521 1598 Closed Mon almond biscuits and mini pizzas
are recommended. d Crosera S

$ Bar Abbazia
Shaded by a leafy pergola,
Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3764 Map K4
041 523 7209 Closed Mon
the outside tables are perfect for
enjoying a quick sandwich.
d Rio Terr dei Catecumeni, Dorsoduro ) Gelateria Il Doge
Try Zuppa del doge (candied
128-129/A Map D5 041 523 2149 fruit, egg custard and sponge cake
soaked in Marsala) at this great

% Impronta Caff
Affordable meals and long
ice cream parlour. d Campo S
Margherita, Dorsoduro 3058A Map K5
opening hours make this a local 041 523 4607 Closed DecJan
favourite. d Calle dei Preti, Dorsoduro
3815 Map K4 041 275 0386
Closed Sun &$0326$17$
0$5*+(5,7$ $Bh3F[[POJDP


^ LaInnovative
Italian cuisine in
5$))$(/( 4BMVUF

relaxing, designer modern 4BO#BTMJP ;BUUFSF

surroundings. Inspiring choice of

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 93

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town Cannaregio

Left La Cantina Right Fondamenta degli Ormesini

between the northern bank of the Grand
Canal and the lagoon, the bustling sestiere of

Cannaregio reaches from the railway station to the city hospital. It was home
to Marco Polo and artists Titian and Tintoretto, and boasts landmark
churches such as Madonna dellOrto (see p39) along with an old Jewish
Ghetto. Named after the reeds (canne) that once filled its marshes, it is
crossed by Strada Nova, the citys main thoroughfare, but also contains
Venices narrowest alley, the 58-cm (2-ft) wide Calle Varisco. This vibrant
area has its own market, craft workshops and rowing clubs, while relaxation
comes at the string of shady parks and laid-back cafs and bars
that line the maze of back-street canals.

Top 10 Sights
1 Ca dOro 7 Fondamente della
Misericordia and degli
2 Jewish Ghetto
3 Corte Seconda del Milion
8 Palazzo Labia
4 Santa Maria dei Miracoli
9 Chiesa di San Giobbe
5 Campo dei Mori
0 Fondamente Nuove
6 Farmacia Ponci

Chiesa di San Giobbe

Sa Sant'Alvise Ca
dell Parco
Ca na l e Groggia de
Madonna lle
CAMPO DI dell'Orto Fo
. D. E L LA en
C AP PU S EN Madonna
C C IN SA ta
Ponte dei E dellOrto
Tre Archi . D. uo
ON O RM Sacca ve

O N DA M I della

S. GIOBBE D A E NTA Misericordia F

A. D
N A E G IO Cannaregio .M
Ponte delle Guglie


Parco IA






San Nuove
Stazione Riva di Biasio Marcuola
Ferrovie nde

dello Stato Gra CAMPO SAN
Santa Lucia Ca EI
BA R I San Stae
Ponte LI S Ca'd'Oro DEL CASON
Ferrovia degli Scalzi CAMPO DEI

Piazzale Ponte CAMPO SAN

di Rialto MARINA
Roma 500 yards 0 metres 500

! Ca dOro
Behind the palaces beautiful
be visited with a guide and theres
a museum of sacred objects.
Gothic tracery is a memorable d Museo Ebraico, Campo del Ghetto
column-lled courtyard paved Nuovo, Cannaregio 2902/B Map C1
with myriad coloured tesserae. Open 10am5:30pm SunFri

Around Town Cannaregio

Inside is the Galleria Franchetti, Admission charge
an enticing collection of
paintings, sculptures, coins and
ceramics donated to the State by Corte Seconda del Milion
The restructured Malibran
Baron Giorgio Franchetti in 1916, Theatre, situated in this photo-
together with the building. One genic square, was erected on
highlight is Andrea Mantegnas the site of the Polo family abode,
agonizing St Sebastian (1560) where famous 13th-century
pierced by arrows like a explorer Marco was born
hedgehog, in the portico (see p52). Other early
leading through to a Gothic buildings remain,
stunning loggia their timber overhangs
overlooking the Grand set off by bright red
Canal. An ornate 15th- geraniums. Along with
century staircase climbs the adjoining bridge, the
to the second oor square was named in
where there are huge honour of the explorer
16th-century Flemish whose marvellous stories
tapestries (see p42). about the Orient in his
d Calle Ca dOro, Cannaregio book Il Milione continue
3932 Map N1 Open to inspire generations of
27:15pm Mon, 8:15am travellers. d Map Q2
7:15pm TueSun No disabled
access Admission charge
$ Santa Maria dei

@ Jewish Ghetto
The word ghetto Moor sculpture
A jewellery box of
marble slabs and exqui-
originated in Venice, site bas-reliefs, this
derived from getto (casting) due Renaissance church was named
to an old iron foundry here. As of after a miracle-working icon from
1492 many Jewish refugees 1409, said to have resuscitated a
reached Venice after expulsion drowned man and now
from Spain and in 1527 they enshrined in the main altar (see
were obliged by law to move to p38). d Campo dei Miracoli, Cannaregio
this area. Subject to a curfew to Map Q2 041 275 04 62 Open
prevent their fraternizing with 10am5pm MonSat, 15pm Sun
local women, they slept behind Admission charge
locked gates, their island circled
by an armed patrol boat. Waves
of arrivals saw each language % Campo dei Mori
In this odd funnel-shaped
group build its own synagogue square your attention is drawn to
(ve in all) and raise the low- three statues of Arabian-style
ceilinged buildings to seven Moors but neither North
oors in height. Today 33 Jews African nor Muslim, they hailed
still live in the ghetto, while a from Morea in Greece. Rioba,
further 450 reside in other parts Sandi and Afani Mastelli were
of the city. The synagogues can medieval traders who made

Mexican and Middle
Eastern restaurants, a
continuation of former
trade links: the word
ormesini derives
Around Town Cannaregio

from a rich fabric

traded through
Hormuz, now in Iran,
and imitated in
Florence and Venice.
Ormesini leads into
Medicinal potions, Farmacia Ponci Misericordia and to
the towering red-brick
their home in the family palace Scuola Grande building. Currently
around the corner. Next to the closed for restructuring, it served
bridge over Rio della Sensa is a as the citys basketball team
doorway marked No. 3399, once headquarters for many years.
the residence of the renowned d Map C2
16th-century artist
Tintoretto (see p44).
d Map D1

^ Farmacia Ponci
The Casa degli
Speziali, the oldest
pharmacy in Venice,
carries on its business
in modern premises
alongside its restored
16th-century rooms.
Displayed on original Palazzo Labia faade
briarwood shelving
adorned with Baroque statues in
Arolla pinewood, are rows of * Palazzo Labia
The fames and fortunes of
17th-century porcelain jars for this 17th-century palace over-
medicinal ingredients; for safety looking the Canal di Cannaregio
reasons poisons were kept in a could ll a book. Abandoned
rear room. Pharmacies were when its wealthy merchant
strictly regulated and totalled owners ed to Vienna at the fall
518 in 1564, the year their guild of the Republic, it acted as a silk
was formed. d Strada Nova, factory, saw-mill and primary
Cannaregio 2233A Map D2 school, but the worst damage
was inicted in 1945 when a

& Fondamente della

Misericordia and
boat loaded with munitions blew
up right in front of it. Luckily the
degli Ormesini wonderful ballroom frescoed by
Parallel to the Strada Nova but Tiepolo has been restored. The
worlds away from the tourist palace now belongs to RAI, the
bustle, these adjoining quaysides Italian state broadcasting service.
have a real neighbourhood feel. d Campo S Geremia, Cannaregio Map
Theres a good sprinkling of C2 Ballroom: open 34pm WedFri by
osterie (wine bars) alongside appointment only (041 781 111)

( Chiesa di San Giobbe
Set in a peaceful square,
Exploring Cannaregio
this church is a bit of a hotch- Morning
potch after undergoing numerous Begin the day with the
architectural modications before Galleria Franchetti in the

Around Town Cannaregio

it was suppressed under Napo- lovely Ca dOro (see p95),
but leave plenty of time
leon. An oratory and a paupers
for the balconies which
hospital, it was founded in the overlook the Grand Canal
14th-century, with funding from and the mosaics in the
Doge Cristoforo Moro and courtyard. Afterwards
decorations by Pietro Lombardo. follow Strada Nova in the
direction of the railway
Superb altarpieces by Giovanni
station to the Bottega del
Bellini and Vittorio Carpaccio now Caff (Calle del Pistor,
hang in the Accademia Galleries Cannaregio 1903 041
(see pp245), but still here are a 714 232 Open daily) for
1445 triptych by Vivarini in the the best coffee in
Cannaregio. Only minutes
sacristy and a lovely Nativity
away is the fascinating
(1540) by Girolamo Savoldo. Jewish Ghetto (see p95),
d Campo S Giobbe, Cannaregio where you can take a
Map B2 Open 10amnoon, 3:306pm guided tour to the many
daily Free remaining synagogues in
the area.

) Fondamente Nuove
This lagoon-side pavement,
For a revitalising break,
lunch at Hostaria alla
opposite the cemetery island of Fontana is recommended
San Michele (see p110), is an (Fondamenta di Cannaregio,
Cannaregio 1102 041 715
important jumping-off point for
077 Closed AprOct: Tue;
ferries to the northern islands NovMar: Sun).
and sports one of the citys rare
petrol stations. The ample Afternoon
quaysides were not constructed Wander up the canal
and paved until the mid-1500s; towards Ponte dei Tre
until then the waterfront reached Archi (see p46) and the
Chiesa di San Giobbe.
back to Titians garden (No. 5113,
Return back over the
Calle Larga dei Botteri) allowing bridge and make your way
him unobstructed views of the to Fondamenta della
Alps on a clear day, which Sacca, which affords good
delighted this native of Cadore. views of the Dolomites in
clear conditions. Many
d Map E2
ways lead east from here,
but try and take in the
The Jews in Venice church of Madonna
Banned by Republic law from dellOrto (see p39) for the
Tintoretto paintings, then
practising manual trades, many
Campo dei Mori (see p95).
Jews were skilled doctors or
money-lenders. Most were Back on Strada Nova, an
refugees from other parts of energetic young team
Europe, and they are credited awaits at La Cantina with
with introducing rice-based dishes a pre-dinner glass of wine
to Venetian cuisine. As from their north Italian
remembered by a memorial in the range (Strada Nova,
Ghetto, few returned from the Cannaregio 3689 041
Nazi camps of World War II. 522 82 58 Closed Sun).

Share your travel recommendations on 97

Around Town Cannaregio

Left Tkal Right Le Ragazze di Cima

Specialist Shops
! Tkal
Close to Campo SS Apostoli,
and other fabrics can be found
here. d Strada Nova, Cannaregio
a gift shop of fascinating holo- 3683/84 Map D2
grams, Murano glass delights
and chunky jewellery. d Strada
Nova, Cannaregio 4391/C Map D2 & Salmoiraghi & Vigano
Italian spectacles are stylish
and good value, and this well-

@ One of the best shoe shops

Mori & Bozzi reputed optometrist can make up
prescription glasses the same
in Venice, offering an irresistible day. d Strada Nova, Cannaregio 3928
selection of sumptuous womens 3930 Map D2
footwear, from high heels to at
pumps. d Rio Terr della Maddalena,
Cannaregio 2367 Map D2 * Barbara Boutique
Eye-catching window
displays of sophisticated ladies

In the morning and late

San Leonardo Market fashion. Good range of stock
changing from season to season.
afternoon this area functions as d Fondamenta Ormesini, Cannaregio 2686
a lively open-air produce market. Map C2
In autumn the air is thick with
the aroma of roasting chestnuts.
d Rio Terr San Leonardo Map C2 ( Codex
This studio and exhibition
MonSat space of resident artists Nelson
Kishi and Robin Frood sells original

$ Lili e Paolo Darin

Original handmade glass
drawings, paintings, prints and
posters. d Fondamenta Ormesini,
beads in brilliant hues and myriad Cannaregio 2778 Map C2
shapes, window hangings and
Christmas decorations. d Salizzada
S Geremia, Cannaregio 317 Map C2 ) Principe
Branches of this womens
fashion store can be found all

% Few passers-by manage not

TSL Tessile San Leonardo over Venice. The latest in trendy
designs at value prices. d Rio Terr
to be tempted by the great value S Leonardo, Cannaregio 1332 Map C2
velvety bathrobes, cut-price bed
linen and uffy towels here. CAMPO DI
d Rio Terr S Leonardo, Cannaregio 1318,
Ponte Fondamenta
delle Guglie Nuove

^ Need a bridal trousseau or

Le Ragazze di Cima CAMPO
San Marcuola
just a swimming costume?
Lingerie for all occasions in silk

98 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town Cannaregio

Left Ristorante Al Fontego dei Pescaori Right Al Piron

Places to Eat
! Ristorante
Al Fontego dei dance after dinner. d S Felice,
Cannaregio 3662 Map D2 041 520 8544
Classy seafood restaurant with a Closed 3 weeks over Dec/Jan
lovely courtyard for summer
dining, noted for its seasonal
specialities. d Sottoportego del & Antica Mola
Friendly family trattoria with
Tagiapiera, Cannaregio 3711 Map D2 a garden and canalside dining.
041 520 0538 Closed Mon d Fondamenta degli Ormesini,
No disabled access Cannaregio 2800 Map C2 041 717 492
Closed Wed, Aug

@ IlTryGelatone
the creamy and delicious
* AlAppetizing
bacio (kiss) of hazelnut and simple meals are
chocolate. d Rio Terr della Maddalena, served at this canalside caf
Cannaregio 2063 Map D2 where you can watch the boats go
041 720 631 by. d Fondamenta Savorgnan, Cannaregio
511 Map B2 041 244 0214

A self-service restaurant
( Osteria Anice Stellato
open from breakfast to dinner. Book well ahead for this
Everything prepared as you wait. popular place serving sh, meat
d Lista di Spagna, Cannaregio 124 and a wonderful zabaglione
Map B2 041 244 0158 dessert. d Fondamenta della Sensa,
Cannaregio 3272 Map C1 041 720 744

$ Taverna del Campiello

Closed Mon, Tue, 2 weeks Aug

This converted warehouse has

upturned barrels as tables and ) LaSposi
Bottega Ai Promessi

offers a delicious buffet menu. This low-key restaurant has tasty

d Campiello Remer, Cannaregio 5701 cicchetti (bar snacks) and friendly
Map D3 041 522 8789 Closed Wed, staff serving traditional Venetian
Sun lunch No disabled access fare. d Calle dellOca, Cannaregio 4367
Map P1 041 241 27 47 Closed Mon

% Enjoy a drink and snack at

Il Santo Bevitore lunch, Wed

this laid-back bar with live music. Sant'Alvise

d Campo S Fosca, Cannaregio 2393 CAMPO DI
Map D2 Closed Sun CAMPO
S. GIOBBE Fondamenta
Ponte Nuove
delle Guglie

^ Meat, such as T-bone steak,

Dogado CAMPO
is a speciality at this stylish bar
and restaurant where you can

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 99

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town Castello

Left Riva degli Schiavoni Right San Pietro di Castello

AMED AFTER A CASTLE possibly built here in
Roman times, Castello is the fishtail of Venice.
The western half of the district is crammed with
historic highlights such as the churches of SS Giovanni e Paolo and San
Zaccaria (see p38). However, half of Castello is taken up with shipbuilding,
focusing on the historic Arsenale. The tree-lined
Giardini is the venue for the Biennale (see p102).

1 Riva degli Schiavoni 7 Campo Santa Maria
2 Hotel Danieli
3 Santa Maria della Piet 8 Via Garibaldi and Giardini

4 Arsenale 9 Chiesa di San Francesco

della Vigna
5 San Pietro di Castello
0 Ospedaletto
6 Campo Santi Giovanni
e Paolo
Statue, Santa Maria Formosa



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! Riva degli Schiavoni
Thronging with tour groups Santa Maria della Piet
Inextricably linked with the
and packed with souvenir stalls, composer and musician Antonio
this quayside affords a lovely Vivaldi, this Classical-fronted
promenade past majestic palaces church belonged to the adjoining

Around Town Castello

(now mostly hotels) and a much home for foundlings where he
photographed 1887 monument taught. Come to an evening
to the rst king of Italy, Vittorio concert to appreciate Tiepolos
Emanuele. It is linked to Piazza uplifting ceiling fresco exalting
San Marco by the elegant Istrian music and the young orphan
stone bridge Ponte della Paglia, choristers, identiable by their
named after the straw (paglia) sprigs of pomegranate blossom.
once unloaded from barges here. The interior has choir stalls to
This is also the best place for accommodate both the singers
taking pictures of the Bridge of and nobility who were not
Sighs. At the eastern end is the expected to mingle with the
Ca di Dio (house of God), a commoners. d Riva degli Schiavoni,
13th-century hospice for pilgrims Castello 3700 Map F4
en route to the Holy Land.
d Map F4
$ Arsenale
Aptly named after the Arab

@ Hotel Danieli
An enchanting 15th-century
word darsinaa (which means
house of industry), Venices
palace with a pink Gothic faade formidable Arsenale shipyards
set on the magnicent water- at their height once employed
front near Piazza San Marco. After an army of 16,000 to produce
a string of aristocratic propri- the eets that sailed the
etors, it was taken over in 1822 Mediterranean, spreading and
by Joseph da Niel, who turned it protecting the inuence of the
into a hotel with an illustrious Republic through trade deals and
guest list, including Dickens, naval superiority. Justiably
Wagner and Ruskin. In the 1940s proud of its innovative assembly-
an annexe was added amid great line system, the Arsenale could
controversy since 1102 no dwel- construct a galley in a matter of
ling over one oor had been hours, notably in 1574 while the
allowed on the site. The redeem- French king Henry III was
ing feature of the 1940s wing is enjoying a banquet. Ringed by
the roof restaurant (see p144). walls and towers bearing the
winged lion, some of
its ancient docks and
workshops are now
being adapted as
exhibition and
performance venues
(see p54). The row of
stone lions which are
guarding the entrance
hail from various
Greek islands looted
by Venetian
Gothic arches, Hotel Danieli d Castello Map G3

% San Pietro di Castello
A sleepy island of grassy
squares and boatyards, it is hard
to imagine that Venices religious
Around Town Castello

headquarters were centred here

right up until 1807, when the
Basilica San Marco became the
citys cathedral. Linked to the
rest of Castello by two broad
bridges, San Pietro attracts
artists for its evocative forlorn air
and fun-lovers for the animated Tree-lined avenue in the Giardini
late-June neighbourhood fair. Art
lovers also come for the church decorated with arches and trompe
with work by Veronese and loeil panels by the Lombard
Coducci, anked by the patriarchal masters, the former confraternity
palace-cum-army barracks. serves as the public hospital.
d Chiesa di San Pietro di Castello Map d Map E3
H4 Open 10am5pm MonSat, 15pm
Sun Admission charge
& Campo Santa Maria
^ Campo
e Paolo
Santi Giovanni A lovely rounded church on this
sun-blessed square appears to
Dominated by the brick faade of spread in all directions, the result
the Gothic church SS Giovanni e of a 7th-century bishops vision
Paolo, this breezy square of the shapely (formosa) Virgin
welcomes visitors with a otilla Marys request it be built where
of outdoor cafs. Worthy of con- a white cloud came to rest. Art-
templation is one of the worlds works are by Vivarini and Palma il
most magnicent equestrian Vecchio. The square is a good
statues, a stylized 15th-century place for a picnic or a game of
portrait of the great condottiere football, in lieu of the bullghts
Bartolomeo Colleoni. He left a and re-enactments of Venices
legacy to the city on the condi- conquests held here in olden
tion that his statue be erected in days. d Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa
front of San Marco, craftily Map E3 Open 10am5pm MonSat,
interpreted by the governors 15pm Sun Admission charge
as the Scuola Grande di San
Marco close at hand. Gracefully
* Via Garibaldi and Giardini
A pleasant avenue now lined
The Venice Biennale with cafs and a market, Via
The Giardini and its beautiful tree- Garibaldi was triumphantly named
lined avenues were inaugurated when the eponymous general
as an international exhibition area marched into Venice in 1866 as
in 1895 under the entrepreneur part of his round-Italy campaign
Count Volpi di Misurata. Every for Unication. Take a stroll to
two years more than 50 countries the Giardini (public gardens). To
send artists to represent them, make way for the park in 1807,
each with their own pavilion
architect Selva (see p45)
custom-designed by leading
architects such as Alvar Aalto, demolished four churches and
Carlo Scarpa and James Stirling. convents and a sailors hospice.
d Map H5

( Chiesa di San Francesco
della Vigna
A Day in Castello
In the back alleys of Castello, Morning
this Franciscan church sports a After a visit to the Gothic
combination of architectural church on Campo Santi

Around Town Castello

styles courtesy of both Sanso- Giovanni e Paolo, wander
through the citys hospital.
vino and Palladio (see p45), who
Although it is now ultra-
designed the faade. The modern inside, you can
colonnaded cloister can be seen still appreciate the
while youre appreciating Giovanni wonderful Renaissance
Bellinis Madonna and Child faade, and a series of
ancient courtyards and
(1507). Playgrounds have replaced
confraternity buildings.
the 13th-century vineyards (vigna). Continue the historic
d Campo S Francesco della Vigna, theme with a coffee and
Castello 6691 Map F3 041 520 61 02 cake at old-style Rosa
Open 8am12:30pm, 37pm MonSat; Salva (Campo SS Giovanni
e Paolo, Castello 6779
36:30pm Sun Free
041 522 79 49).

) Ospedaletto
For John Ruskin the sculp-
Take a stroll, via Campo
Santa Maria Formosa, to
tures on the faade of this Campo San Zaccaria and
the church with its Bellini
almshouse church represented
painting and Scuola di
masses of diseased gures and San Giorgio degli
swollen fruit. Judge Longhenas Schiavoni (see p40) for its
controversial work was added in Carpaccio works. For lunch,
1674. Pass through the less Via Garibaldi is a good bet,
at one of the cafs or at
provocative interior of the church
Sottoprova (041 520 64 93
to the Sala della Musica. Female Closed Mon).
wards of the orphanage once gave
concerts in this pretty room decor- Afternoon
ated with 18th-century frescoes. Head east along Via
d Barbarie delle Tole, Castello 6691 Garibaldi, and detour briey
Map F3 Open 36pm ThuSat into the shady avenue for
(NovMar: 36pm) Admission charge the statue of Giuseppe
Garibaldi and his followers.
After a visit to the island
of San Pietro di Castello,
make your way back via the
lagoon and the Giardini.
A poignant sculpture to
the female partisans of
World War II can be seen
at water level.

Heading in the direction of

San Marco, just past the
mouth of Via Garibaldi, on
the embankment is Angi
Bar, the perfect spot for a
Venetian sunset together
with a glass of wine, not
to mention all manner of
delicious snacks (Riva di S
Biasio, Castello 2142 041
277 85 55 Closed Tue).
Longhena sculptures, Ospedaletto

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 103

Around Town Castello

Left Pasticio Le Spighe Right Papier Mch

Specialist Shops
! LeIn aCeramiche
tiny atelier close to the
designs for suits, scarves and
ties. d Ruga Giuffa, Castello 4925
Arsenale (see p54), Alessandro Map F3
Merlin creates original platters,
cups and tiles, with black and
white designs based on lagoon & Crovato
Contemporary light ttings in
sh or human gures. d Calle del bold Italian designs and a great
Pestrin, Castello 3876 Map F4 selection of coloured candles.
d Ruga Giuffa, Castello 4920 Map F3

@ A normal grocery store at

Pastificio Le Spighe

* Corte delle Fate

rst sight, this hive of industry Ultra-modern footwear and
produces a marvellous range of zany accessories in the shape of
homemade pasta and stocks bags, jewellery and garments for
gourmet olive oils and olive paste. the young. d Salizzada S Lio, Castello
d Via Garibaldi, Castello 1341 Map G4 5690 Map E3

Papier Mch
One of the few authentic ( Lanterna Magica
A toy and gadget shop where
mask shops in town. It also sells you can browse among star-
beautiful ceramics. d Calle Lunga studded umbrellas and magic
Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5175 lantern lamps with a procession
Map R3 of shadow gures. d Calle delle
Bande, Castello 5379 Map E3

$ Tempting gifts in the shape

Il Papiro

) Giovanna Zanella
of marbled paper-covered boxes, A must for all serious
greeting cards and writing paper shoppers zany handmade
with artistic letterheads. d Calle shoes in a fabulous range of
delle Bande, Castello 5275 Map E4 incredible designs.
d Calle Carminati, Castello 5641

% Inviting boudoir lled with an

Anticlea Antiquariato Map Q3

amazing collection of glass beads Ospedale

and striking hat pins. Necklaces
and earrings can be made up on
the spot. d Calle S Provolo, Castello
4719/A Map F4

^ Glorious Oriental emporium

Mistero Atelier PIAZZA

Zaccaria Arsenale
with a range of dazzling Thai and San Marco

Indian silks made up to Italian

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town Castello

Left Trattoria Giorgione Right Alla Rivetta

Places to Eat
! Taverna Olandese Volante
Lively bar serving draught ^ Alla Rivetta
Friendly eatery with a won-
beer and where the rolls are derful seafood window display.
named after pirates and the salads d Ponte S Provolo, Castello 4625 Map
after ships try the Galeone E4 041 528 7302 Closed Mon
with prawn and hard-boiled egg.
d Campo S Lio, Castello 5658 Map E3
041 528 9349 Closed Sun L & Alla Mascareta
An upmarket bar for wine
lovers. Also serves meals. d Calle

@ Pasticceria Ponte
delle Paste
Lunga S Maria Formosa, Castello 5183
Map E3 041 523 0744 Closed
Luscious cream cakes and Sun L, 4 weeks DecJan
fragrant buttery pastries can be
enjoyed here with coffee or tea.
d Ponte del Pistor, Castello 5991 Map Q3 * Alle Testiere
Tiny, cosy restaurant with an
041 522 2889 No disabled access unusual selection of sh, cheese
and wines. d Calle del Mondo Novo,

Boutique del Gelato

Theres inevitably a queue
Castello, 5801 Map E3 041 522 7220
Closed Sun, Mon & Aug
outside this popular gelateria. Try
the tangy limone (lemon) or
fragola (strawberry) ice cream or ( Hostaria ae Do Porte
Wood-lined tavern, noted for
creamy gianduiotto (hazelnut- its grilled sh. Lunch only. d Corte
chocolate). d Salizzada S Lio, Castello delle Due Porte, Castello 6492 Map F3
5727 Map E3 041 522 3283 Closed 041 520 8842 Closed Sun

$ A cheery restaurant which is

Trattoria dai Tosi Piccoli ) AlSophisticated
candlelit sh
dining and Italian wine list. d Camp-
especially popular when the iello de la Pescaria, Castello 3968 Map
Biennale art show (see p62) is F4 041 522 3812 Closed WedThu,
on nearby. Mouth-watering Pasta 1 week Aug, 4 weeks DecJan
della Casa (house pasta) includes
seafood and vegetables. d Secco $JWJMF

Marina, Castello 736738 Map H5 041

523 7102 Closed Wed & Christmas

% Trattoria Giorgione
After serving his sh special- '56(1$

ities, owner Lucio entertains 3,$==$

6$10$5&2 5,9$'(*/,
guests with Venetian folk songs. 4BO
d Via Garibaldi, Castello 1533 Map G4 4BO.BSDP

041 522 8727 Closed Wed

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 105

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town The Northern Lagoon

Left San Michele Right Certosa

The Northern Lagoon

T HE NORTHERN LAGOON IS DOTTED WITH mud flats and abandoned

islands where rambling monasteries lie crumbling in the sun, backed by
sweeping views of snow-capped mountains. Refugees from the mainland,
fleeing the Huns, first settled on Torcello, which grew with the additional
influx of influential religious orders. Today, however, only a handful of islands
are still inhabited glassmaking Murano is the most important, while Burano,
Mazzorbo and Sant Erasmo have skeletal populations of fishermen and
market gardeners. Salt pans, such as Le Saline, were a source of employ-
ment until as late as 1913.

1 Torcello 6 San Michele
2 Burano 7 SantErasmo
3 Murano 8 Lazzaretto Nuovo
4 Mazzorbo 9 Certosa
5 San Francesco del 0 Punta Sabbioni


$B O

7 F O F U B




108 Preceding pages Backwater canal, Venice

! Torcello
See pp3031.

@ Burano
A haven for artists, brightly

Around Town The Northern Lagoon

painted houses, sh and lace-
making are the pride of Burano.
The islanders cherish an old
legend about a faithful sailor who
resisted the Sirens call and was
rewarded with a magnicent veil
of magical foam for his bride,
later worked into lace, a trade
that brought worldwide fame and
fortune to the isolated sherfolk.
These days, although old women
still strain their eyes with patient
stitches, many articles are in fact Torcello basilica
imported from abroad. The islands
dramatically leaning bell tower is
visible from afar. d Ferry No. LN from $ Mazzorbo
This pretty island of cats
Fondamente Nuove or S Zaccaria Map H1 exudes a tranquil air as locals
tend their vineyards or artichoke

Long synonymous with
elds. Wicker cages for fattening
up moleche (soft-shelled crabs)
glassmaking, Murano developed hang on racks over the water and
blowing and fusion techniques to the produce can be sampled in
extraordinary heights in the 1500s, the low-key trattorias. Amid the
and so closely guarded were the scattering of houses are bold
trade secrets that skilled crafts- modern council blocks painted in
men could migrate only under pastel hues. Mazzorbo has its
pain of death. Though Venices own boat stop but is also joined
glass monopoly lasted only until to Burano by a timber footbridge.
the 17th century, its fame lives d Ferry No. LN from Fondamente Nuove
on. A visit to the Glass Museum or S Zaccaria Map H1
with its 4,000 exhibits is a must
(see p40). Dont be put off by the
reps who invite tourists to see a % San Francesco del Deserto
A short distance from Burano,
furnace and showroom; its a this attractive island of cypress
unique opportunity to watch the trees is home to a Franciscan
glassblowers at work and is free monastery. According to legend
of charge. However, if you accept it was founded by St Francis in
a free boat trip from San Marco person, on his way back from
to a glass factory, youre expect- preaching missions in Egypt and
ed to make your own way back Palestine in 1220. In May, clad in
by vaporetto if you dont buy any- their brown habits and sandals,
thing. Glassmaking aside, Murano the monks attend the Vogalonga
is a lovely place to wander around, in their heavy-duty boat, to the
with canals, alleyways and friendly delight of the Venetians (see
islanders. d Vaporetto lines 41 & 42 p62). d Taxi launch from Buranos
from Fondamente Nuove, DM from landing stage Map H1 Monastery:
P Roma or seasonal lines Map G2 open 911am, 35pm TueSun Donation

Lagoon Flora and Fauna and artichokes which prosper on
The lagoon abounds in gilt-head the sandy soil and are a mainstay
bream, sea bass, clams, cuttlesh of Rialto Market (see p28). Just
and crabs, which are all prey for over 4 km (2.5 miles) long and
wetland waterfowl such as 1 km (0.5 miles) at the broadest
Around Town The Northern Lagoon

swans, egrets, cormorants and point, Sant Erasmo offers a

the rare black-winged stilts. Sea tranquil countryside, praised
lavender blooms on land masses, enthusiastically by the Romans
rock samphire clings to crumbling
who built sumptuous villas here.
masonry, while glasswort thrives
in the salt-ridden marshes. A couple of rickety old motor
cars occasionally bump along the
lanes, but bicycles and boats are

^ San Michele
San Michele became the city
still the main form of transport.
d Ferry No. 13 from Fondamente Nuove
cemetery in 1826, in the wake of Map H2
a hygienic Napoleonic decree
that the dead should be buried
far from the dwellings of the * Lazzaretto Nuovo
Across the water from Sant
living. Entry to the cemetery is Erasmo, up until the 1700s this
via a lovely Gothic portal sur- island served as a quarantine
mounted by St Michael at odds station for merchant ships enter-
with a dragon, and through the ing the lagoon and suspected of
monks colonnaded cloister. But carrying the plague. Together
dont neglect to visit the pretty with neighbouring Sant Erasmo
marble-faaded church next door, it housed up to 10,000 people
designed by Mauro Coducci in during the 1576 pestilence, while
1469 (see p45). On All Souls cargoes were fumigated with
Day (2 November), the place is rosemary and juniper in temporary
crowded with relatives paying a shelters. Later converted into a
visit to their dear departed. military stronghold, it now swarms
However unless youre a famous with archaeology enthusiasts
resident like Ezra Pound, intent on unearthing its secrets
Stravinsky or Diaghilev, your and students attending summer
bones are dug up after 10 years camps. d Ferry No. 13 from Fondamente
and placed in an urn to make Nuove Map H2 Tours AprOct: 9:45am
room for someone else. & 4pm Sat & Sun
d Ferry Nos. 41 & 42 from
Fondamente Nuove Map
G2 Cemetery: open
7:30am6pm daily (closes
4pm OctMar)

& SantErasmo
Unattering jokes
circulate about the
inhabitants of Sant
Erasmo, with refer-
ence to in-breeding.
However, no one would
dare to question their
ability to produce
delicious asparagus Sant Erasmo

Sailing the Lagoon
To save money, buy a
laguna nord day ticket (see

Around Town The Northern Lagoon

p135) then take a vaporetto
to Murano (see p109) to
watch a glassmaking
demonstration at a
furnace or one of the
Punta Sabbioni workshops. Dont miss
Muranos very own Grand
Canal, before returning via
( Certosa
Inhabited by religious Fondamenta Manin with
its medieval porticoes for
communities for more than 600 the turn-off towards the
years, the charterhouse island Faro (light-house) landing
went the way of many of its stage. Bar al Faro is a
neighbours under occupation by perfect place for coffee.
(Fondamenta Piave 20,
French, Austrian and Italian
Murano 041 739 724
forces, though currently as the Closed Sun).
property of the City Council, is
slowly being cleaned up as a Take a ferry to Burano
public park. Though there is no (see p109). Either picnic
on the famous Burano
public boat service, it can be
biscuits or lunch at Da
seen from vaporetto lines as Romano. A popular
they circle eastern Castello. Also meeting place for artists
clearly visible from the Lido- (Piazza Galuppi 221,
Punta Sabbioni ferry are the Burano 041 730 030
impressive fortied ramparts of Closed Tue & Sun dinner,
mid-Decearly Feb).
Sanmichelis 16th-century Forte
di SantAndrea, which faced any Afternoon
hostile vessels that dared to Pop over to Torcello (see
enter the lagoon unbidden. pp3031) by ferry for the
d Map H2 awe-inspiring Byzantine
mosaics in the basilica.
Climb the bell tower for
) Punta Sabbioni
This locality clings to
unbeatable views of the
lagoon, and the mountains
the promontory extending if visibility is favourable.
westward from the mainland
Return to the water on a
a continuous string of beach
ferry via Burano south
resorts equipped with spacious past low-lying islands and
camp sites. Alongside sleepy tidal ats. A stretch paral-
backwaters and canals is Punta lel to the sandy littoral
Sabbioni (big sandy point) separating the lagoon from
the Adriatic Sea takes you
a busy bus-ferry terminal that
to Punta Sabbioni, where
bustles with summer holiday- a stopover is feasible for a
makers. It came into being as drink on the jetty.
sand accumulated behind the
1,100-m (3,600-ft) breakwater End the day sailing across
the broad lagoon mouth,
erected to protect the port mouth
via the Lido (see p115),
and littoral, and offers lovely back to Piazza San Marco
seaside strolls. d Ferry No LN from (see pp1619).
Lido or Burano

Around Town The Northern Lagoon

Left Barovier & Toso showroom Centre and right Mazzega

Specialist Shops
! Cesare Sent
This talented artist from a ^ Mazzega
Vast showrooms display
long line of glassmakers, traditional and semi-modern
transforms the ancient art of glass designs with an emphasis
murrhine glassware into striking on chandeliers and vases.
modern objects. d Fondamenta Vetrai d Fondamenta da Mula 147, Murano
8B, Murano Map G2 Map G2

@ ArtStudio
Watch glass artist Davide & CAM
The rst shop you see as
Penso at work producing marvel- you disembark at Murano, this
lous African-inspired glass beads. internationally known rm special-
d Fondamenta Rivalonga 48, Murano izes in distinctive modern pieces.
Map G2 d Piazzale Colonna 1, Murano Map G2

Manin 56
Striking etched bowls and * Pastificio e Panificio
Giorgio Garbo
slender wine glasses from Salviati Sample Buranos trademark
ank international designer items vanilla-avoured shortbread,
in this wonderful collection. bussolai, freshly baked in
d Fondamenta Manin 56, Murano traditional rounds or S shapes.
Map G2 d Via S Mauro 336, Burano Map H1

$ Murano Collezioni
A stunning showroom ( Gianna G
Here delicate lace
containing contemporary pieces handkerchiefs are sewn on a
by Carlo Moretti and Venini, traditional cylindrical cushion.
alongside classic light ttings by d Via S Mauro 332, Burano Map H1
Barovier & Toso.
d Fondamenta Manin 1/CD,
Murano Map G2 ) Lidia

While the front of the

% The worlds oldest

Barovier & Toso shop is an emporium
of lace tablecloths,
family of glassmakers, hand towels and mats,
the Baroviers are able the rear is a gallery
to trace their ancestry with a priceless 18th-
back to the 13th century wedding
century. They still gown, a lace fan
produce stunning owned by Louis XIV
contemporary pieces. and lace altarpieces.
d Fondamenta Vetrai 28, d Via Galuppi 215, Burano
Murano Map G2 Lidia Merletti dArte Map H1

112 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town The Northern Lagoon

Left Antica Trattoria alla Maddalena Right Al Gatto Nero

Places to Eat
! Trattoria
Da Lele
Busa alla Torre,
^ Trattoria ai Cacciatori
Cheaper and quieter than
Dine inside under timber rafters neighbouring Burano, here you
or outside in the square. Start can savour potato dumplings with
with soft-shelled moleche (crab) crab and, in autumn, local game.
or ravioli lled with sh, but leave d Mazzorbo 24 Map H1 041 730 118
room for the nougat pastries. Closed Mon and 7 Jan7 Feb
Open for lunch only. d Campo S
Stefano 3, Murano Map G2 041 739
662 Open for lunch only No disabled & Antica Trattoria alla
access Renowned for its spring arti-
chokes and roast duck, this laid-

@ Panificio Giovanni Marcato

Delicious slices of pizza with
back trattoria also serves a light,
local white wine. Lunch and early
tomato and olives, and traditional dinner only. d Mazzorbo 7B Map H1
zaletti biscuits or luscious pincetto, 041 730 151 Closed Thu
sponge cake with chocolate.
d Fondamenta Rivalonga 16, Murano
Map G2 041 739 176 Closed Sun * AlWonderful
Gatto Nero
al fresco sh
restaurant, surrounded by

Home-style cooking at
Osteria La Perla Ai Bisatei Buranos colourful houses. d Fonda-
menta Giudecca 88, Burano Map H1
reasonable prices. The fritto misto 041 730 120 Closed Mon, 1st week Jul,
seafood is superb. Open for lunch 2 weeks Nov No disabled access
only. d Campo S Bernardo 6, Murano
Map G2 041 739 528 No credit
cards No disabled access ( Locanda Cipriani
Meals in this historic
establishment are served on

$ Stylish eating on a waterside

Trattoria Valmarana the terrace. The house speciality
is letto di San Pietro Carlina
terrace near the Glass Museum (baked John Dory with tomato
(see p41). Try rombo al forno con and capers). d Piazza S Fosca 29,
patate e olive (ounder with Torcello Map H1 041 730 150 Closed
potatoes and olives). d Fondamenta Tue, Jan No disabled access
Navagero 31, Murano Map G2 041
739 313 Open for lunch only
) Ca Vignotto
Book in advance to eat at

% Trattoria Al Corallo
A popular, chaotic trattoria.
this rambling farmhouse turned
trattoria. Dishes include dumplings
Dine on fresh sh by the canal. with crab and artichokes or
Open for lunch and early dinner asparagus lasagne. d Via Forti 71,
only. d Fondamenta Vetrai 73, Murano S Erasmo Map H2 041 528 5329
Map G2 041 739 636 Closed Tue Closed Mon, evenings, Jan

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 113

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town The Southern Lagoon & Venice Lido

Left San Giorgio Centre San Lazzaro garden Right San Servolo artist at work

The Southern Lagoon and Venice Lido

T HE SOUTHERN LAGOON ENJOYS protection from the Adriatic Sea with

shifting sand spits long transformed into a permanent littoral, the
residential Lido, with the ongoing help of nature and man. The latters efforts
date back to the 6th century, but the earth and wicker barriers have since
been modied into sturdy seawalls and massive parallel breakwaters at the
shipping entrances of San Nicol, Alberoni and Chioggia. On the lagoons
southwestern edge are sh farms and wild shallows where hunters and
shermen still roam, well clear of the Valle Averto reserve run by the World
Wildlife Fund for Nature (WWF). Closer to Venice itself is a cluster of sizeable
islands such as majestic San Giorgio and populous Giudecca, then
diminutive land masses such as a lazaret, where plague victims were once
quarantined but which has now been re-adapted as a home for stray dogs, a
sanatorium acquired for private development as an exclusive resort, and
countless other evocative abandoned places.

Sights )XVLQD

1 San Giorgio 7 Santa Maria delle Grazie

2 Giudecca 8 San Servolo
3 Lido: San Nicol 9 San Pietro in Volta & 7FOFUB $OEHURQL
4 Lido: beach side
5 Lido: Malamocco
0 Chioggia LQ9ROWD

6 San Lazzaro degli Armeni





! San Giorgio
The island of cypresses is
used to be equipped with
impressive naval fortications and
separated from the main body of chains would be laid across the
Venice by St Marks Basin and lagoon mouth as a deterrent to
retains a quiet meditative air, invaders. The historic Sensa

Around Town The Southern Lagoon & Venice Lido

unconcerned with the bustle in celebration (see p62) is held
the city. An ancient vineyard and offshore from the church of San
salt pans were replaced by a Nicol, founded in 1044 and a
landmark church by Andrea former Benedictine monastery,
Palladio (see p45), adjoining an now a study centre. One visitable
elegant Benedictine monastery. site is the 1386 Jewish cemetery.
It is now a scientic and cultural Alternatively, take a 35-minute
foundation and conference centre. mini-cruise on the car ferry
At the rear is the open-air amphi- between Tronchetto car park and
theatre Teatro Verde, which is San Nicol. Its high decks give
used for performances of great views all over Venice.
contemporary dance and music d Jewish Cemetery: Bus A from S Maria
(see p62). d Fondazione Giorgio Elisabetta or car ferry from Tronchetto
Cini (vaporetto No. 2) Open 041 715 359 Guided visits in English,
10am4:30pm (to 4pm OctApr) Sat & booking essential Admission charge
Sun guided visits (041 524 0119)
Admission charge
$ Lido: beach side
Manicured sand raked daily

@ Giudecca
An S-shaped slice of land
and neat rows of multicoloured
bathing cabins and beach
facing the sun-blessed Zattere, umbrellas sum up the Lido from
this residential garden island was June to September, made
rst known as Spina longa for famous in Thomas Manns novel
its shbone form. It was renamed Death in Venice (see p50).
either after an early Jewish com- Venetians spend their summers
munity, or the giudicati (radical socializing in style here. Things
aristocrats) exiled here. Renais- liven up considerably for the
sance artist Michelangelo spent 10-day International Film Festival
three peaceful years here in in September (see p66), when
voluntary exile from 1529. Much the shady streets are lled with
later it became an important lm buffs and critics on bicycles.
industrial zone with shipbuilding d Ferry lines Nos. 1, 51, 52, 61, 62, LN
and the immense
Molino Stucky our mill
(see p54). Usually quiet
and neighbourly, it
comes to life with a
vengeance for the
mid-July Redentore
festivities (see p62).
d Vaporetto Nos. 2, 41, 42

Lido: San Nicol

The northern end
of the Lido littoral, a
key point in the
Republics defence, Sunbathers, Lido beach resort

Share your travel recommendations on 115

Heyday of the Lido
Evidence of the Lidos golden
& Santa Maria delle Grazie
Close to San Giorgio, this
age as Europes leading seaside abandoned island used to be a
resort at the turn of the 20th hospice for pilgrims and was
century can still be seen in the named after a miraculous image
Around Town The Southern Lagoon & Venice Lido

magnicent Art Deco villas. of the Virgin brought back from

Exemplary survivors are the Hotel Constantinople and attributed to
des Bains and the Excelsior, built St Luke. Its colourful history
in 1907 as the worlds largest
features a series of religious
hotel, complete with mock
minarets. Before that, the Lido orders and churches, devastating
was appreciated for its healthy air. res, allotments, luxuriant
gardens and, until recently, the
citys infectious diseases hos-

% Lido: Malamocco
About midway along the
pital. It is now private property
with no public access.
Lido is the pretty, quiet village of
Malamocco and its now hard to
imagine that it used to be the * San Servolo
In 1648, 200 nuns exiled from
most important lagoon settle- Candia, Crete, by the Turks were
ment soon after Roman times lodged on this island, but after
and the main port for Padua. A their numbers dwindled in 1725
storm and giant waves washed it was given over to a sanatorium
away the entire town in 1106, for psychiatric cases, although
later rebuilt in the vicinity on a exclusively those of comfortable
smaller scale. It is appreciated circumstances. The roomy
for its 15th-century buildings, buildings are now shared by
peaceful nature and rustic an international university and a
trattorias. d Bus No. 11 or lines B or V trade school for artisans from all
from S Maria Elisabetta over Europe interested in
restoration of stone and stucco

^ San Lazzaro degli Armeni

Venice made a gift of this
techniques. d Ferry No. 20 from
San Zaccaria Guided visits 11:30am,
erstwhile leper colony to the 2:45pm (book ahead 041 524 0119)
Armenian monk, the Venerable
Mechtar, forced out of the
Peloponnese during one of his
countrys diasporas. Intent on
fostering the Armenian culture
and language, he founded a
religious community here and
set up a printing press which
operated until 1994, publishing
works in 36 languages. Multi-
lingual monks instruct visitors in
their history and lead guided
tours through a small museum
and an impressive library of
more than 100,000 volumes and
precious illuminated manu-
scripts. d Ferry line No. 20 from
San Zaccaria Open 3:205pm daily
Admission charge Malamocco on the Lido

A Day on the Lagoon
From the Santa Maria
Elisabetta ferry stop, either

Around Town The Southern Lagoon & Venice Lido

hire a bicycle or take
buses B or V southwest
along the lagoon edge for
Malamocco. Wander
through the peaceful
Traditional net-mending in Chioggia village and over its bridge
to the sea to take in the
Adriatic and the impres-
( San Pietro in Volta and
sive seawall. Then proceed
with buses B or 11
This narrow 11-km (6.5-mile) through Alberoni and past
central strip of land, linked to the the golf course for the
Lido and Chioggia by ferry, is vehicle ferry across the
lagoon entrance. Get off at
dotted with picturesque sleepy
the second stop for San
shing communities, once Pietro in Volta. Climb the
famous for lacemaking and now high seawall for views of
renowned for champion rowers the sea, before turning
and a shipyard. The Genoese lagoon-wards for the
pastel-painted shing
wiped out the villages during the
settlement spread along
14th century, an event almost the waterfront.
repeated during the disastrous
1966 oods powerful waves Have lunch at one of the
broke over the seawall, forcing trattorias (see p119) or a
sandwich and glass of
full-scale evacuation. The massive
wine at one of the modest
defensive barriers with their 14-m waterfront bars.
(46-ft) broad base were rst
erected in the 1700s but have Afternoon
consequently needed large-scale Further south the bus
reinforcement. d Bus No. 11 and terminates at Pellestrina,
ferry from the Lido or from Chioggia a brightly painted shing
village anked by an
active shipyard. The
) Chioggia
A lively shing town, with
passenger ferry to
Chioggia is a beautiful
elegant bridges over navigable half-hour cruise past
canals. The friendly inhabitants mussel grounds
punctuated with sher
have a reputation for lawless-
huts perched on poles,
ness and bickering, and speak a via the Ca Roman landing
distinctive dialect with a sing- stage, which provides
song inection. Chioggia has a access to a beach.
rich history, but its greatest Chioggia is a lovely town
to explore, with its trafc-
moment came as the arena for
free piazza lined with old
the decisive battle in the 13789 palazzos and countless
war, when the Genoese came sh restaurants.
close to conquering Venice. In
at-bottomed boats the crafty Indulge in a pre-dinner
drink and snack at one
locals enticed the enemy into the
of the laidback cafs
lagoon, thus gaining the upper in the elegant Corso
hand. d Ferry from Pellestrina or bus del Popolo.
from Piazzale Roma

Around Town The Southern Lagoon & Venice Lido

Left Rizzo Centre Erbalido Right Arbor Boutique

Shops and Markets

! Rizzo
Unbeatable gourmet food ^ Oviesse-Billa
Department store with
from all over Italy buffalo mozza- fashionable, moderately priced
rella, creamy Asiago cheese, clothing for all ages, combined
cured Parma ham and gleaming with a supermarket with a
olives. Pizza and focaccia can be great selection of picnic pro-
found at the bread counter. ducts. d Gran Viale, Lido Map H2
d Gran Viale18/20, Lido Map H2

@ Open-sided vans
General Market & Benetton
Small store but well-
stocked with underwear,
sell fresh produce, nightwear and
alongside designer- swimwear.
quality clothes, d Gran Viale 47B, Lido
shoes and bags Map H2
at approachable
prices. Even if you
dont buy anything, *
El Penelo
the lagoon setting Boscolo is an expert
looking over to the Confectionery at Rizzo on traditional shermens
Venice skyline makes a clay pipes and the only
trip worthwhile. d Via Falier, Lido craftsman still to make them in
Map H2 Tue am terracotta and coloured glazes.
d Palazzo Granaio Corso del Popolo,

A traditional herbalist who

Erbalido Chioggia Map F1

can advise on natural remedies

for minor ailments. d Via ( Carlo Bullo
Ignore the trinkets here and
Negroponte 4/C, Lido Map H2 focus on the handcrafted models
of bragozzo boats (see p22)

$ Arbor Boutique
The up-market range of
painted in primary colours.
d Corso del Popolo 1350, Chioggia
mens- and womenswear attracts Map F1
both foreign and Italian
customers. d Santa Maria Elisabetta
10, Lido Map H2 ) Panificio Sergio
These dry biscuits were
traditionally made for seafarers.

% This well-stocked bike shop

Bruno Lazzari Pevarini are spicy rings with
molasses and aniseed, while
rents out all normal steeds as Dolce del Doge is spread with a
well as 4-wheeler family models. chocolate-hazelnut mixture.
d Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta 21/B, Lido d Stradale Ponte Caneva 626, Chioggia
Map H2 Map F1

118 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town The Southern Lagoon & Venice Lido

Left Harrys Dolci Right Ristorante El Gato

Places to Eat
! Altanella
Treat yourself to a candlelit ^ Trattoria Da Nane
Memorable sh restaurant
dinner on the terrace. Fish dishes and terrace with panoramic views.
such as frittura mista (assorted Its speciality is a pasticcio di
fried seafood) are the speciality. pesce (seafood lasagne). d Via
d Calle delle Erbe, Giudecca 268 Map Laguna 282, S Pietro in Volta 041 527
E6 041 522 7780 Closed Mon & Tue, 9110 Closed Mon, mid-Novmid-Mar
Jan, Aug No credit cards No vegetarian No vegetarian options No disabled
options No disabled access access

@ Harrys Dolci
With views across the Giu- & Ristorante da Memo
A modest seafood restaurant
decca Canal, this is the sweet with outdoor tables. Try the
branch of Harrys Bar (see p21) shrimps, eel or sole. d Via Porto-
serving sorbets and pastries. secco 157 (S Pietro in Volta) 041 527
d S Eufemia, Giudecca 773 Map C6 041 9125 Closed Tue, mid-NovMar
522 4844 Closed NovEaster

Hearty Venetian fare such as

Ai Cacciatori * Ristorante La Sgura
An enchanting setting on a
quiet canal, this sh restaurant
gnocchi con nero di seppia also has a great selection of
(potato dumplings with cuttlesh meat. Try the zuppa di pesce (sh
ink) can be enjoyed along with soup). d Fondamenta Marangoni 1295,
canalside seating and lovely Chioggia Map F1 041 403 232
views. d Giudecca 320 Map D6 Closed Mon, Jan
041 528 5849 Closed Mon

$ This good-value family

Trattoria Scarso ( Ristorante El Gato
With an excellent and long-
standing reputation for seafood,
eatery has a lovely garden hung the frittura (fried sh), sh risotto
with shing nets where you can and sauted mussels and clams
linger over grilled sh or a fresh are a real treat here. d Campo S
salad. d Piazzale Malamocco 5, Andrea 653, Chioggia Map F1 041 401
Malamocco Map H2 041 770 834 806 Closed Wed, 1528 Feb
Closed Mon D, Tue, Jan

% Locals celebrate family

Agriturismo Le Garzette ) Ristorante al Buon Pesce
Roomy and friendly family-
style sh restaurant with a
anniversaries here with the crispy delicious range of fresh grilled
frittura di pesce (fried sh). sh or fried seafood. d Stradale
d Lungomare Alberoni 32, Malamocco Ponte Caneva 625, Chioggia Map F1
Map H2 041 731 078 Open MarNov; 041 400 861 Closed Wed, Dec
closed Tue No credit cards No vegetarian options

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 119

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

Left Bo University, Padua Right Ponte Scaligero, Verona

Padua, Vicenza and Verona

A WEALTH OF ART CITIES PUNCTUATES the fertile Veneto plain that

stretches in a broad wedge north from the Po River to the foothills of
the Dolomites. There is ample evidence of the presence of Romans and
Venetians alike in the shape of fascinating amphitheatres and elegant
palaces in places such as Verona and Vicenza, both towns recently declared
World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Moreover, amid vineyards of grapes
pressed for light sparkling Prosecco and aromatic Bardolino are charming,
little visited villas with ornamental gardens. Each town has its distinctive
character: business-like Padua, yet with a richly artistic and religious heart;
Vicenza, contained and proper in its country setting and equally famous for
its goldsmiths and the architecture of Andrea Palladio; then romantic Verona,
lazing on the banks of the mighty Adige River as it flows south swollen with
snow-melt from the Alps. Highlights in each locality are all feasible as day-
trips from Venice by train.

1 Cappella degli Scrovegni 7 Verona Arena
2 Bo University 8 Casa di Giulietta
3 Basilica del Santo 9 Piazza delle Erbe
4 Piazza dei Signori 0 Museo Civico di Storia
5 Teatro Olimpico
6 Palazzo Leoni Montanari

Teatro Olimpico, Vicenza














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122 Preceding pages Veneto countryside

! Cappella degli Scrovegni
The sky-blue vault studded
with gold stars in this glorious
Paduan chapel seems to hover
over Giottos vibrant frescoes

Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

narrating the lives of Mary and
Jesus. The Florentine artist
(12661337) was summoned by
Enrico Scrovegni to work on the
chapel in 130506, to atone for
the sins of his late father, a
moneylender. Especially note-
worthy of the 38 distinct scenes
is the Last Judgment on the
entrance wall, with ranks of
helmeted, haloed and shield-
bearing angels. Book well in Cappella degli Scrovegni, Padua
advance and be prepared to wait
in the decontamination chamber (14731543), Gabriel Fallopius
before the 15-minute visit. (152362), who discovered the
d Piazza Eremitani, Padua Bus Nos. 3, 8, function of the Fallopian tubes,
10, 12 049 201 00 20 Open 9am10pm and Elena Lucrezia Corner
daily (to 7pm Jan & Feb) www.cappella Piscopia, the worlds rst woman Admission charge graduate (see p52). d Via VIII
Febbraio 2, Padua Bus Nos. 3, 8, 12

@ The original lectern where

Bo University By guided tour only, telephone for times
and booking 049 827 3047
Galileo Galilei held his lessons Admission charge
between 1592 and 1610 can be
seen on the guided tour of
Paduas historic university, Basilica del Santo
Popularly referred to as
founded in 1222 and second il Santo, Paduas revered site
only to Bologna as Italys oldest. of pilgrimage was built in the
The institution boasts the worlds 13th century to safeguard the
rst anatomy theatre (1594) mortal remains of St Anthony,
where dissections had to be a Franciscan monk and
carried out in great secrecy miracle worker from Portugal.
as the church forbade such Worshippers visit his gleaming
practices. Other illustrious tomb, encircled by burning
scholars of the university have candles, but his tongue is
included astronomer Copernicus guarded in an intricate reliquary
in the Treasury, recovered after
being stolen. In architectural
terms the basilica blends
Romanesque, Gothic, Islamic
and Byzantine elements with
elegant arched loggias, minarets
and domes, and is a treasure
trove of art works by Sansovino,
Tiepolo and Titian (see p44).
d Piazza Duomo, Padua Bus Nos. 8, 18
Basilica del Santo, Padua Open 10am6pm daily Free

Romeo and Juliet
There is no doubt that the
^ Palazzo Leoni Montanari
On the entrance portal of
Capulet and Montague families this lavishly decorated Baroque
existed, though they were palace are carvings of writhing
probably more friendly than serpents, and Hercules is shown
Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

William Shakespeare made out in in the act of slaying the Hydra on

his tragic 15945 play. However the loggia. The masterpieces
the worlds most famous star- include 120 awe-inspiring Russian
crossed lovers may actually have
icons and 14 fascinating paintings
come from Vicenza, home town
of Luigi Da Porto, author of the by Pietro Longhi depicting scenes
original 1530 account. from 18th-century Venetian life
and hanging in the frescoed
Room of the Four Continents.

$ Piazza dei Signori

In addition to the cafs in
d Contra Santa Corona 25, Vicenza
Open 10am6pm TueSun
Vicenzas main square, come to Admission charge
admire the buildings by Palladio,
whose 16th-century designs
shaped both his home town and & Verona Arena
This massive Roman amphi-
architecture worldwide (see p45). theatre from the 1st century AD
The basilica boasts twin levels of and measures almost 140 m
colonnaded arches, opposite his (460 ft) in length. The arcades and
Loggia del Capitaniato. A statue 44-level tiered seating for 22,000
of the architect stands at the people, that once rang with the
western end of the basilica. cries of gladiator ghts, now echo
d Basilica Palladiana: Piazza dei Signori, with arias from operas during the
Vicenza Open during exhibitions popular summer festival. Verdis
Admission charge Ada marked the inauguration in
1913, and is repeated every year.

% Teatro Olimpico
A castle courtyard draped
d Piazza Br, Verona 045 800 51 51
Open 8:30am7:30pm TueSun, 1:30
with creepers was chosen for 7:30pm Mon if no performance Partial
this Vicenza theatre, designed by wheelchair access Admission charge
Palladio and completed by his
disciple Vincenzo
Scamozzi. The perfor- * Casa di
ming area is based on Tourists ock to
a Roman model, Juliets House, the
while the stage 13th-century pre-
scenery is a replica sumed abode of the
of the city of Thebes, Shakespearean
built for the inaugural heroine. Complete
play, Sophocles with a pretty balcony
Oedipus Rex, in 1585. (added in 1928...) the
Scaled statues and romantically inclined
varying stage levels can imagine her
create clever tricks of uttering that immortal
perspective. d Piazza cry: Romeo, Romeo,
Matteotti 11, Vicenza wherefore art thou
Open 9am4:30pm Tue Romeo? The
Sun (JulAug: 9am7pm) courtyard walls are
Admission charge Piazza dei Signori, Vicenza plastered with

A Day Out in Verona
Where better to begin
than the inspiring arena,

Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

where wild animals once
made a meal of gladiators
as entertainment? After-
wards, relax in the sun with
a creamy coffee at Liston
12 Caff and dig into a
freshly baked jam-lled
croissant (Piazza Br 12,
Verona 045 803 1168).

A short stroll leads past

the boutiques in trafc-free
Piazza delle Erbe, Verona Via Mazzini, paved with
pink-tinged local limestone
embedded with ammonite
multilingual grafti left by lovers
fossils, to Casa di
from all over the world. d Via Giulietta to the right, or
Cappello 23, Verona Open 8:30am Piazza delle Erbe and its
7:30pm TueSun, 1:307:30pm Mon elegant palaces to the left.
Admission charge
Backtrack to Via Mazzini
for lunch at Ristorante
( Originally Veronas Roman
Piazza delle Erbe Greppia (Vicolo Samaritana
3, Verona 045 800 4577
forum, this picturesque square is Closed Mon) for bollito
still a great place for discussing misto (nine types of boiled
meat) served with a
business over a coffee. Parasols
traditional peppery sauce.
shade souvenirs at the animated
market, watched over by a winged Afternoon
lion atop a column, vestige of To digest lunch, head over
Venetian domination. The 84-m the Adige River via the
(275-ft) Torre Lamberti offers great ancient Ponte di Pietra
city views. d Torre dei Lamberti, to the Roman theatre on
Via Regaste Redentore
Cortile Mercato Vecchio, Verona Open
well worth a visit even if
daily; NovFeb: 8:30am7:30pm, Mar youre not in town for a
Oct: 8:30am8:30pm Admission charge summer evening
performance. Then follow
the river or walk back
) Museo Civico di Storia
Naturale through town and west
towards the medieval
Gigantic ferns, weird sh and an Ponte Scaligero, part of
ancestor of the crocodile, all in the adjoining castle. The
fossilized form from the Eocene triple-arched construction
era, 50 million years ago are was blown up by the
German army in World War
treasures hailing from Bolca in
II, then rebuilt brick by
the Lessini foothills. They testify brick by the town.
to the tropical shallows that
spread across the area prior to The bridge leads to Castel-
the formation of the Alps. vecchio for a timely apritif
with a glass of white
d Lungadige Porta Vittoria 9, Verona
Soave wine at any of the
Open 9am7pm MonThu, Sat; 27pm welcoming bars.
Sun & hols Admission charge

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 125

Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

Left Villa Valmarana Ai Nani Right Villa Valmarana La Rotonda

Veneto Villas
! Villa Barbaro
The best preserved villa Villa Valmarana Ai Nani
Known for the jaunty statues
(1560) by Palladio (see p45) lies of dwarfs on the garden wall,
close to the pretty hilltown of these cosy twin buildings stand
Asolo. This charming country on a pretty ridge looking up to
house features all manner of Monte Berico and its sanctuary.
Roman-inspired elements, from The Tiepolo father and son fresco
the nymphaeum and grotto to team were invited here by Count
the circular temple akin to the Valmarana in 1757, the former to
Pantheon. Playful trompe loeil decorate the main part, the latter
frescoes by Veronese (see p44) the Foresteria guest quarters.
adorn the main rooms alongside d Via dei Nani 28, Vicenza Open
elaborate stucco work, while the Marearly Nov: 10amnoon, 36pm
garden is punctuated with TueSun; NovFeb: 10amnoon,
Classical statuary. Drop in to the 24:30pm Sat & Sun Admission charge
estates wine cellar next door.
d Via Cornuda 7, Maser, bus from Treviso
railway station Open MarOct: $ Villa Valmarana La
10:30am6pm Tue, Sat, Sun & public hols; Perfectly proportioned imposing
NovFeb: 11am5pm Sat, Sun & public villa with four temple faades on
hols Admission charge a hill overlooking the architect
Palladios adoptive town of

@ Villa Pisani La Nazionale

A splendid two-oor
Vicenza. The house has been
imitated throughout the world. If
18th-century villa designed for you want to visit the gilded
Doge Alvise Pisani, with 114 stuccoed and domed villa as
sumptuously furnished rooms and opposed to the rather limited
an impressive ballroom decorated grounds, time your visit carefully
by Tiepolo (see p44). Above the as its only open one day per
huge faade columns, scores of week. d Via Rotonda 45, Vicenza (bus
statues line the roof overlooking No. 8) Open 15 Mar4 Nov: garden
inner courtyards and a spacious 10amnoon, 36pm TueSun (5 Novmid-
park where the Venetian nobility Mar: 10amnoon, 2:305pm); villa 10am
would promenade on summer noon, 36pm Wed Admission charge
evenings. Be sure to try out the
wonderful 1721 circular maze. The
guest list has included one-time % Villa Foscari La
proprietor Napoleon, Russian, Wonderful dignied residence
Austrian and Swedish royalty, set on the bend of the Brenta
Mussolini and Hitler. d Via Doge Canal, though now rather too
Pisani 7, Str Villa & park: open AprSep: close to the Marghera industrial
9am8pm TueSun (OctMar 9am4pm); area. Designed by Andrea
maze: open AprOct Admission charge Palladio in 1571, it is one of his

Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona
Left Villa Foscari Right Villa Emo

most famous creations, with a

Greek temple faade, while the * Villa Contarini
A horseshoe plaza lined with
interior glows with allegorical terraced houses faces the faade
frescoes. The name is a reference of this 17th-century country villa,
to the discontent of a female once the focus for a thriving
member of the Foscari family, farming community. A remark-
exiled here for adultery. d Via dei able system of acoustics was
Turisti 11, Malcontenta Open AprOct: invented so that musicians per-
9amnoon Tue, Sat Admission charge forming in the Sala della Musica
on the rst oor could be clearly

^ Villa Barbarigo
The Euganean Hills are the
appreciated downstairs. An
antiques market is held in the
perfect setting for this Baroque grounds on the last Sunday
garden, designed for the Barbar- of each month. d Piazzola sul
igo family from Venice by Luigi Brenta Open MarOct: 9am7pm daily;
Bernini, architect of the Vatican NovFeb: 10am4pm TueSun
fountains in Rome. The villa, Admission charge
dating from 1669, is a private
dwelling, but the 15-ha (37-acre)
garden provides a boxwood maze, ( Villa Cornaro
Unusual double-tiered,
fountains, sh ponds, statues and compact Palladio creation, this
hundreds of trees. d Galzignano, one dates back to 156070. The
Valsanzibio Open MarNov: 10am1pm, faade columns are both Corin-
2pmsunset daily Admission charge thian and Doric in style, with
acanthus leaves or scrolls around

& Villa Emo

Another of Palladios light-
the capitals. d Via Roma 34, Piombino
Dese Open MaySep: 3:306pm Sat
ooded country residences, this Admission charge
one was commissioned by the
Emo family and built around
1560. A harmonious central block ) Barchessa Valmarana
Formerly guest quarters,
is anked by graceful arched these are extant wings of a
barchesse (wings), designed for 17th-century villa, whose main
storing hay and farm tools. The body was demolished in 1908.
interior has lively frescoes by Close by are locks on the
Renaissance artist Zelotti, also Brenta waterway, which have
responsible for the Malcontenta been excavated over centuries to
villa decorations. d Via Stazione 5, divert the river away from the
Fanzolo di Vedelago Open MayOct: lagoon and eliminate the
37pm MonSat, 9:30am12:30pm, problem of silting. d Via Valmarana
37pm Sun; NovApr: 10am12:30pm, 11, Mira Porte Open MarOct:10am6pm
2:305:30pm MonSat, 9am12:30pm, TueSun; NovFeb: 10am6pm Sat & Sun
26pm Sun Admission charge Admission charge

Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

Left Cappelleria Palladio Right Mercato dOriente

Veneto Shops
! Pasticceria Forin
A pastry shop specializing in
stylish weddings in the country
villas (see pp1267). d Piazzetta
biscuits named after St Anthony Palladio 13, Vicenza
and studded with pistachios,
pine nuts and marsala. The pice
de rsistance is a large bun ^ IlA Ceppo
gourmets paradise with
shaped to resemble the towns mouth-watering take-away dishes,
domed basilica and avoured pickles and preserves. Buy a
with amaretto (almond liqueur). catered picnic with wine or
d Via S Francesco 179, Padua simply a crusty roll lled with
Asiago cheese or sopressa

@ Drogheria
ai Due Catini sausage. d Corso Palladio 196, Vicenza

An old-fashioned shop selling

super strong mints, peppery & De Rossi Il Fornaio
A range of pastries and
Veneto mostarda chutney and wholemeal breads. Try the
even feather dusters. d Piazza dei zaletto, a biscuit baked with
Frutti 46, Padua pine nuts and sultanas, and of
course Baci di Giulietta (Juliets

Feltrinelli Internazionale
Browse through the well-
Kisses) almond paste shaped
into pursed lips. d Corso Porta
stocked shelves of English- and Borsari 3, Verona
other European-language crime
and mystery novels, ction, travel,
classics, childrens literature and * Love Therapy
Elio Fiorucci
reference books in this chain Colourful fun fashion accessories
bookshop. d Via S Francesco 14, Padua and gadgets alongside top-brand
clothing. d Via Mazzini 4, Verona

$ Antica
Pasticceria di

( Mercato dOriente
Inviting pastry shop lined Akin to an exotic museum,
with tantalizing almond and this antiques dealer dazzles with
chocolate delicacies, and special Chinese and Japanese marvels,
goodies such as the dove- Pre-Columbian pieces and both
shaped Colomba cake at Easter. traditional and contemporary
d Piazzetta Palladio 17, Vicenza carpets. d Via Basso Acquar 53, Verona

% Cappelleria Palladio
Hat-lovers heaven, run by ) Upim
Wonderful department store
a charming couple with a with a good range of casual
40-year passion for millinery in clothes, cosmetics and home
this lovely old-fashioned estab- furnishings, in the centre of
lishment. In great demand for town. d Via Mazzini 6, Verona

128 For more on shopping in Venice See p138

Price Categories
For a three-course under 30
meal for one with half 3040
a bottle of wine (or 4050
equivalent meal), taxes 5060
and extra charges. over 60

Around Town Padua, Vicenza & Verona

Left Caff Pedrocchi Right Bloom Caff

Places to Eat
! Graziati
Buttery millefoglie pastries ^ Bar del Corso
This is a great place to lunch
perfectly accompany a strong or dine on a steaming bowl of
sweet coffee as you sit outside zuppa di zucca (pumpkin soup) or
on the lively market square. Light a goats cheese salad. Happy
lunches are served downstairs. hour is at 6pm and theres live
d Piazza della Frutta 40, Padua music and exhibitions. d Corso A
Palladio 54, Vicenza 044 452 5336

@ This 1831 Neo-Classical

Caff Pedrocchi

& Dai Nodari

coffee house was long known as Try the fresh salads, soups
the caf without doors and regional cheeses at this
because it never closed. Liberals inviting caf-restaurant. Also on
of the 19th century would meet offer is pasta con consiero e
and argue here, though today, bruscandoli (pasta with hop
after a renovation, its rather shoots and herb-avoured butter).
quiet. d Via VIII Febbraio 15, Padua d Contr do Rode 20, Vicenza 044
454 4085 Closed 2 weeks Aug

Osteria dei Fabbri

The appetizing menu in this
* Ristorante Greppia
rustic osteria changes daily, so An unforgettable place
you may get grilled Piedmont specializing in a selection of nine
cheese with polenta or spare ribs melt-in-the-mouth meats served
with radicchio. d Via dei Fabbri 13, with peppery Pear sauce.
Padua 049 650 3362 Closed Sun d Vicolo Samaritana 3, Verona 045 800
4577 Closed Mon, 2 weeks Jun

$ Osteria al Bersagliere
This rened osteria does
( Bloom Caff
variations on the areas seasonal Delicious simple meals such
cuisine. A local favourite is as sushi are served beneath
Baccal alla Vicentina (dried salt elegant white sun shades in the
cod stewed in milk). d Via Pescaria lovely Piazza delle Erbe. d Piazza
11, Vicenza 044 432 3507 Closed Sun, delle Erbe 24, Verona 045 800 2410
Mon No disabled access Closed Mon in winter

% Antica Casa della

Malvasia ) Bottega del Vino
Renowned restaurant that
A restaurant with an imaginative dates back to 1890 and holds
menu and a vast wine list. Try 2,500 wines in its cellar. Food-
the Bigoli allarna (spaghetti with wise, the favourite is pastissada
duck sauce). d Contrada Morette 5, de caval, a spicy stew. d Vicolo
Vicenza 044 454 3704 Closed Mon, Scudo di Francia 3, Verona 045 800 4535
2 weeks Aug Closed Tue out of opera season

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 129

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Planning Your Trip
Arriving in Venice

Sources of Information
Getting Around
Guided Tours
Venice on a Budget
Venice for the Disabled
Things to Avoid
Banking and
Security and Health
Studying in Venice
Hotel Listings

Left International Student Card Centre Sunbathing, the Lido Right Airline ticket

Planning Your Trip

! What to Pack
Comfortable walking
be worth its weight in
gold and can double as a * Sun Protection
Sunglasses, protective
shoes, boots or sandals high chair, which are rare cream and a hat are
are essential. Youll be on in Venice restaurants. essential from spring
your feet for a good part to autumn for pale
of your visit and the
stone paving can prove % When to Go
Theres no such thing
complexions. Dont under-
estimate the strength
tiring. Bring a bag or case as a bad time to visit of the sun and remember
on wheels so that it is Venice. Every season has that there is added
easy to get on and off its attractions, whether reection from the water.
boats and ferries. that be hot summer days
with balmy evenings;
( Insect Repellent
@ Passports, Visas
and ID Cards
melancholic autumn with
its fog; crisp winter with
Mosquitoes and
gnats are a nuisance in
A passport with a mini- the snow-bound Alps as summer and few hotels
mum ve months validity a backdrop, or mild or apartments have pro-
is necessary for nationals spring with its photo- tective screening. Should
of all countries entering genic sunsets. you forget your own,
Italy. For residents of the pharmacies stock a wide
EU, USA, Canada, Austra-
lia and New Zealand, visas ^ Public
range of repellents in
liquid and electrical form.
are only required for stays In addition
exceeding three months to those Electrical
or for those intending to recognized ) Appliances
work, but it is always throughout Italian plugs and
advisable to check with Italy (see box), sockets entail
your embassy before the Venice Salute two or three
travelling. Students should festivity falls on round prongs
bring an International 21 November and electricity is
Student Card (ISIC) for (see p62) and 220V AC. If you
reduced admission fees. St Marks Day Mosquito repellent envisage using
on 25 April. and Italian plug any appliances
Driving Licence
If you plan on any Time Difference
bring an adaptor
with you, as theyre all
out-of-Venice trips with a & Italy is one hour ahead but unheard of in Venice.
rented car, bring a valid of Greenwich Mean Time
driving licence and credit (GMT), meaning London Public Holidays
card. Residents from is one hour behind
outside the EU will need Venice, the US Eastern New Years Day (1 Jan)
an International Drivers Seaboard six hours Epiphany (6 Jan)
Licence. If driving your behind, while most of Easter Monday (variable)
own car, bring vehicle Australia is nine hours Liberation Day (25 Apr)
registration papers and ahead and Japan eight Labour Day (1 May)
full insurance cover. hours ahead. Italy changes Republic Day (2 June)
Italians drive on the right. to Daylight Saving Time Assumption (15 Aug)
(ora legale) from the last All Saints Day (1 Nov)
$ Childrens Needs
Young children tire
Sunday in March through
to the last Sunday in
Immaculate Conception
(8 Dec)
quickly and a fold-up October, moving the time Christmas Day (25 Dec)
stroller is essential. A difference to GMT plus Boxing Day (26 Dec).
backpack child carrier can two hours.

Left Venice Marco Polo Airport Centre Arriving by boat Right Tronchetto car park

Arriving in Venice
! Venice Airport
Marco Polo Airport is
and from Venice (45
minutes). The airport can
Serenissima opposite the
railway station in Mestre.
located at Tessera, 8 km also be reached by train The car park and boat
(5 miles) north of the city, from Venice to Treviso, terminal at Fusina on the
on the edge of the lagoon, then local bus No. 6, eastern edge of the
so arrivals and departures although this route does lagoon is also handy.
are scenic affairs. Many take longer. Despite the expense of
European airlines serve d 0422 315 111 www. car parks, never resort to
the airport including roadside parking car
British Airways and low break-ins are all too
cost Easyjet. Visitors
from outside Europe need % By Train
Dont make the
common in the area.

to y to Rome or Milan
for connecting ights to
mistake of many rst-
time visitors and get off * By Sea
Daily car and passen-
Venice. d Flight informa- at Venezia Mestre, but ger ferries arrive from
tion: 041 260 9260 wait until the train has Greece across the crossed the lagoon for Adriatic and dock at the
Venezia Santa Lucia San Basilio terminal in
@ Water
Station. The Orient
Express is an expensive
western Dorsoduro (see
p93), equipped with an
The most exciting way to but memorable way information ofce and
reach Venice from the to travel from London catering facilities. It also
airport is by water the between March and acts as the jump-off point
frequent Alilaguna ferries November. for week-long cruises to
charge about 10. A d Train timetables: 892021 the Greek Islands.
private water taxi, how-
ever, will set you back an
vast amount (around 90),
( Porters
Porters (portabagagli)
depending on time of day
and the amount of bag- ^ By Road
Whether you zoom in
equipped with trolleys
and broad shoulders can
gage you have (see p135). to the city via the motor- usually be found at the
way (autostrada) or on maritime passenger
Road Connections
To go as far as
minor roads, youll need
to follow signs for
terminal, railway station,
airport, bus terminal and
Piazzale Roma, Venices Venezia. Long-distance car park, and at strategic
car and bus terminal, the buses arrive in Venice at points around town such
cheapest option is the Piazzale Roma. as Rialto and Piazza San
orange ACTV bus No. 5 d Road conditions Marco. Rates start at
(see p135), every 20 information:1518 ACI around 16 per item.
minutes during the day. (Italian Automobile Club)
Tickets are available from
newsagents. Or theres
breakdown service: 803116
) Left Luggage
Lockers and a left
the direct ATVO blue bus Car Parking luggage ofce (deposito
(tickets available in the & The Tronchetto island bagagli) function at Santa
arrivals hall). car park has bus and Lucia railway station and
boat links to the rest of Marco Polo airport. The
Treviso Airport Venice, otherwise its Piazzale Roma bus
$ Ryanair ies into Piazzale Roma for the terminal also has a
Treviso airport from the exorbitant garages convenient left luggage
UK and a special bus (parcheggio). A more facility located next to
transports passengers to reasonable option is the Pullman Bar.


Left Concert poster Centre left Ospite di Venezia Centre right and right Italian tourist ofce logos

Sources of Information
! Tourist Offices
in Venice
timetables and info on
exhibitions and concerts. and www.a in
There are numerous Italian and English are
helpful tourist ofces
around the city (see box). ^ Wall Posters
Many events in
excellent sources of
information and have an
Venice are announced at incredible number and
@ Tourist Offices in
the Veneto
the last minute by eye-
catching posters along
array of useful links for
in-depth exploration.
Each of the main towns the main streets or small
in the Veneto has a versions in shop win-
tourist information ofce dows. Get in the habit of Tourist Ofces
(see box). reading them for all Venice
manner of fascinating
AVA Venice local festivities and
Hoteliers cultural events.
041 529 8711 (call
Ferrovia S Lucia (railway
Hotel bookings can be
made via the AVA service & Leo
The Venice Tourist station)
by phone or by calling at Boards complimentary 041 529 8727
one of their welcome glossy three-monthly Piazza S Marco 71/f
desks in Piazzale Roma, publication has a 041 529 8740
Santa Lucia railway detachable pocket-sized
station, Rotunda Romea programme of exhibi- Venice Pavilion
or Marco Polo Airport. tions, concerts and Giardinetti Reali, S
d From abroad call 041 522 events. Request it for Marco 2
2264 From Italy call 199 free at tourist ofces. 041 522 5150
17 33 09 Piazzale Roma, Garage
Last-Minute * Venezia da Vivere
Aimed at young
$ Reservations visitors, this slim, brightly
041 529 8746
The efcient VeneziaS coloured booklet printed Airport 041 541 5887
booking service run by quarterly by the City
Gran Viale 6, Lido
the Hoteliers Association Council contains listings
041 526 5721
can arrange accommo- of whats on, live music,
(summer only)
dation on the spur of the poetry readings, cheap
moment, free of charge. places to eat and shop. Padua
d 199 17 33 09 (freephone You can pick up a copy in Piazzale della Stazione
within Italy) 041 522 2264 bars and shops. 049 875 2077
(from abroad) www. www. info@ ( Pocket Venice
Another useful free
three-monthly bilingual
Piazza Matteotti 12
Ospite di Venezia magazine that lists exhi-
% This excellent free bitions, not to mention
044 432 0854
magazine published bars and eateries all
every month in English around town. Verona
(as Guest in Venice) and Via degli Alpini 9
Italian by the Hoteliers
Association is distributed ) Websites
As well as the
045 806 8680
at hotels. Crammed with Tourist Board sites (see
practical details, boat directory), www.meeting

134 For entertainment in Venice See pp667

Left Venice street signs Centre Gondola ride Right Vaporetto arriving at San Marco

Getting Around Venice

! Asking Directions
Whatever your % Island Boat Fares
A laguna nord day ( Combined City
Museum Ticket
request, a Venetian will ticket is a good deal for The 18 Musei Civici
nearly always answer the panoramic circuit via ticket covers entrance
sempre diritto Murano, Burano and its to the Doges Palace
(straight on). The idea neighbours, as well as (see pp1215), Museo
is that by following the Punta Sabbioni (see Correr including the
main ow of pedestrians pp108111). An equiva- archaeological section
youll reach the main lent applies for the Lido- and Libreria Sansovino
sights. A detailed map is Chioggia route via a (see p18), Ca Pesaro
always a good idea. combination of buses (see p41), Palazzo
and ferries. Mocenigo (see p82), the
@ Street Signs Glass and Lace museums
Yellow placards point
visitors in the direction of ^ Season Tickets
If youre staying
(see pp4041) and Ca
Rezzonico (see p21). The
the main landmarks such longer than a few weeks, pass is excellent value.
as San Marco, Rialto, its worth investing in an
Ferrovia (railway station)
and Piazzale Roma (bus
abbonamento (travel
pass). A passport-sized ) Chorus

terminal and car park). photo and a photocopy of If you plan on visiting
But be aware that incon- your passport/ID card are most of the 15 out-
sistencies in spelling may required. Apply to ACTV/ standing churches
be encountered between Vela at Piazzale Roma. managed by the Chorus
street signs and addres- organization, its worth
ses in this guide due to
the Venetian dialect & Gondolas
Charges are around
splashing out on the all-
inclusive combined
applied to local names. 73 for 50 minutes with ticket. Included among
a maximum of six pas- the churches are Santa
Boat Lines
The ACTV runs a
sengers, although this
increases after 8pm. The
Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
(see pp267), Santa
marvellous network of gondola traghetto ferry Maria dei Miracoli, San
public ferries throughout service across the Grand Sebastiano and Madonna
Venice and the lagoon. Canal is far cheaper if dellOrto (see pp389).
Buy your ticket before- less romantic (see p22). d Chorus: 041 275 0462
hand or, if the landing 10 adults, 7 concessions,
stage is unmanned, ask
the crew for a ticket as * Water Taxis
Not cheap, but its
20 family ticket www.
soon as you board. undeniably
d (for routes stylish to cruise
and timetables) around in a
$ Boat Fares
A one-way ticket can
equivalent of a
be expensive (around 6 limousine if you
along the Grand Canal). can afford it
You can get better value (see p22).
from a 24-hour or d Consorzio
72-hour ticket (10.50 Motosca: 041
and 22). Children under 522 2303
four years of age travel Serenissima:
free on all public transport. 041 522 8538 Ca Pesaro museum

For Venices watercraft See pp223 135


Left Ofcial Venice tour guide Right Gondola serenade

Guided Tours
! Official
% Museum Tours
To get the most out
049 820 6910
The citys certied multi- of your visit, join a end MarOct: Venice to
lingual guides, catering guided tour run by expert Padua Tue, Thu & Sat; Padua
for individuals and groups, English-speaking staff in to Venice Wed, Fri & Sun
cover every corner of the citys many superb
Venice with in-depth
history and history of art
museums. Particularly
good recommendations * Helicopter Trips
Taking off from the
explanations in some 15 are those at the small airport on the Lido,
different languages. Archaeological Museum helicopter ights are a
d Calle Morosini della and Sala Sansovino (see thrilling, if expensive,
Regina, S Marco 750 p18). Most tours have no way to admire and
041 520 9038 extra charge, although a understand the layout of small fee is payable at the lagoon and Venices
the Accademia Galleries unique pattern of streets
@ APersonalized
Guide in Venice
(see pp245) and the
Doges Palace (see
and canals.
d Nicelli Airport, Via Renato
tours accompanied by pp1215). Morandi 9, Lido
qualied English-speaking 041 529 8711
guides. Prices are around
65 for up to ten people. ^ Doges

Itineraries Tour
d 0347 803 8793 www. In addition to the ofcial ( Venice Walks
Themed walking tours
parts of the Doges led by experts are an
Palace, these tours take
you behind the scenes,
intriguing way to get to
know Venice. Some of the
If you cant afford a and come complete with possibilities include
gondola all for yourself, fascinating historical visiting the haunts of
then a group cruise along anecdotes, which include well-known ghosts, taking
the romantic canals some of Casanovas in the art and architecture
serenaded by a baritone exploits. Advance of the city, or discovering
singing O sole mio! booking is recommended some of Venices most
is a must. Reservations as queues can get very beautiful gardens.
can be made through long (see pp1215). Alternatively, take a ight
travel agents around the over the lagoon or the
city or ask at the
gondoliers stands. & Brenta Villas
This leisurely if rather
Dolomites for a more
expensive and less
exorbitantly priced strenuous option.
$ Island Boat trips
The outlying islands
full-day ferry trip across
the lagoon sails via the
d Frezzaria, S Marco 1827
041 523 9979
of Murano, Burano (see locks on the Brenta Canal
pp108111) and Torcello to visit a selection of
(see pp3031) are visited
on a four-hour trip in
stately villas, once
summer residences of ) Jewish Ghetto
Expert guides take
sleek motor launches the Venetian nobility. you to old synagogues
with a multilingual guide Return is by bus. It is run hidden away amidst a
(9:30am and 2:30pm by Il Burchiello in Padua, maze of rooms and
AprOct, 2pm NovMar). but can also be booked cramped oors in the
Book your ticket at a via Venice travel agents. fascinating Ghetto and
travel agency or at kiosks d Il Burchiello: SITA, Via its layers of history
in Piazza San Marco. Orlandini 3, Padua (see p95).

Left Venice market Centre Litorale del Cavallino camping ground Right Venice sales sign

Venice on a Budget
! Rolling Venice
A handy pass for
while supermarkets Co-
op, SU.VE and Billa are
Italy for the Settimana
della cultura, usually in
1429-year-olds entailing dotted all over town. late February or March.
holders to a boat/bus Cheap wine is dispensed
ticket that lasts 72 hours,
and a range of discounts
by the litre (vino sfuso)
at the many Nave de * Cheap Rail Fares
Several good-value
on hotels, restaurants Oro outlets take a rail fares may be on offer
and shops. It is available plastic bottle. throughout the year.
either from main ACTV/ Book online at www.
Vela ticket ofces (see
p135), Tourist Info (see % Eating out
Italian-style fast food or enquire
at the station or travel
p134), or from the Hello can be sampled at Brek agencies bearing the FS
Venizia ticket ofce or (see p99). For more logo. To travel cheaply
any tourist information substantial fare seek out avoid the ES and IC
ofce (see p134) a tavola calda where hot trains which entail hefty
041 2424 meals are served at the supplements, and go
counter and customers for the IR and R slower
@ Accommodation
Sleep cheaply in
sit on stools. Another
option is the set tourist
trains instead.

Venice itself at one of

several hostels, other-
menu (menu turis-
tico) in restaurants. ( Shopping
Venices suburb of
wise use the camp sites Mestre is worth a visit
on the mainland or the
beach areas there are ^ Concessions
Children and students
for clothing, shoes and
accessories at lower
cabins or caravans if you with an ISIC (International prices than in the city. It
dont have a tent (see Students Card) are not also has a huge market
p151). Crashing out at the only ones eligible for on Wednesday and
the railway station is entry concessions: senior Friday mornings.
often tolerated though citizens should always
not particularly safe so
should be avoided.
enquire at council and
state-run museums. ) Orange Laundry
Save on hotel laundry
bills by using this self-
Public Transport
You can save money & Italian
Culture service laundrette which
guarantees a 45-minute
by just walking every- Entrance to state-run turn-around time.
where, unless youre museums and galleries is d Campiello delle
staying at the Giudecca free of charge throughout Muneghe, S Croce 6650B
hostel or want to visit
the islands. Rather than
expensive singles, the
boat passes (see p135)
or Rolling Venice special
deal are recommended.

$ Picnic Supplies
There are wonderful
produce markets at Rialto
(see pp289), Rio Terr
San Leonardo, Campo
Santa Margherita (see
pp323) and Via Garibaldi, Venetian grocery shop, San Marco

Sign up for DKs email newsletter on 137


Left Venetian market Centre Mask selection Right Street stall

Shopping Tips
! Opening Hours
Food shops open % Where to Buy Where to Buy
Gourmet Delights & Glassware
Monday to Saturday Delicatessens and Its worth shopping
around 89am, take a specialist shops are clus- around as many glass
long lunch break and tered around the Rialto shops stock similar items
then resume business market (see pp289), and prices can vary
57:30pm, except for with fresh buffalo wildly. Murano (see p109)
Wednesday afternoon mozzarella from the tends to be more
when most are closed. In south of Italy, unusual expensive than Venice
low season clothing and pasta and all manner of but you get a free
other shops usually close delectable ready-to-eat demonstration as well.
all day Sunday and dishes. Supermarkets are
Monday morning. Glass
furnaces (see p64) do not
also worth perusing
for packaged or * Hypermarkets
Free shuttle buses
often give demonstra- bottled treats. leave the Piazzale Roma
tions at weekends. terminal at regular
^ Where to Buy intervals for the huge
@ Sales
The ofcial periods
English Books
As well as the Venice
mainland shopping
centres of Panorama,
for sales (saldi) are mid- Pavilion Bookshop (see located at Marghera,
January to mid-February p69), which has a good Carrefour at Marcon and
then late July to late selection of both Auchan on the outskirts
August. Retailers must second-hand and new of Mestre. Theyre good
show the items original books, novels and guide for everything from
cost alongside the sale books in English and groceries through to
price so customers know other languages can also computers, clothing and
how much theyre saving. be found at Libreria sports gear.
Vendita promozionale is Mondadori. d Libreria
another term for a sale. Mondadori Salizzada San
Mois, San Marco 1345 ( Street Sellers
Pavement trading is
041 522 2193 brisk in tourist bric--brac
as well as imitation
Visitors from non-EU designer bags and
countries can claim a tax accessories, with
refund on purchases that bargaining the name of
exceed 155 from the the game. However
one shop. Most shop- foreign visitors should be
keepers will have the warned that hefty nes
appropriate forms are imposed for counter-
check for the relevant feit goods (see p140).
window sticker rst.

Bargaining ) Forwarding
Goods Home
$ Centuries of Virtually all glass shop
commerce have shaped staff are experts in
the Venetians into die- packaging fragile and
hard traders, who feign bulky items and they can
offence when discounts arrange for forwarding
(sconti) are requested overseas by air or sea.
but its worth a try for Always check that
cash transactions. Venice street seller insurance is included.

138 For more shops in Venice See pp689

Left Disabled accessibility sign Centre and right Wheelchair ramps in Venice

Venice for the Disabled

! Maps
Ask at tourist ofces
(camera a piano terra) may
be feasible. Addresses
avoided. The Alilaguna
launch to and from the
(see p134) for the special can be found in Tourism airport (see p133) is also
map of Venice which for all in the Veneto (see wheelchair accessible.
shows areas and bridges Local Contact below).
accessible for wheel-
chairs clearly highlighted
The Venice tourist ofce
has a brochure of suitable & Taxis
Waterborne taxis are
in yellow. available accommodation. out of the question
unless you can handle
Bridges Restaurants steps. However Sanitrans,
@ Cannaregios Ponte $ Most are on the an efcient private
delle Guglie has been ground oor though they ambulance/taxi service
tted with a low stepped may not be spacious. can be booked. The
if rather steep ramp, Outside dining usually Cooperativa San Marco
while four in the San offers easier access. also has special craft
Marco district have a Lavatories might not be though at a higher rate.
mechanized stair-climber wheelchair-friendly. d Sanitrans: 041 513 9977
(Ponte Goldoni, Ponte Consorzio Motosca:
Manin, Ponte del Teatro,
Ponte dei Frati). The % Buses
ACTV bus No. 5,
041 240 67 11

necessary key is available

at tourist ofces and
which runs between Piaz-
zale Roma and the airport, * Public
must be returned. is tted with a mobile The main public toilets in
platform for wheelchairs Venice are accessible to
Apart from the luxury
and a reserved space
with safety straps.
disabled users.

chains, few hotels in

( Local Contact
Venice have wheelchair
facilities let alone ele- ^ Boats
The ACTV vaporetto
The helpful council-
run Informahandicap
vators, mainly due to has a spacious at area in Mestre can answer
renovation restrictions on and is easy to get on and enquiries and assist
historic buildings (which off as the landing stages disabled visitors to
covers virtually every- are on the same level as Venice. d Informahandicap:
thing in town). However the passenger deck. The Centro Culturale Candiani,
a ground-oor room motoscafo is best Piazzale Candiani 5, Mestre
041 274 6144 www.

) Air and Train Travel

When booking your
ight make a request for
assistance both on board
and at the airport. For
trains, railway personnel
can aid wheelchair users
with a special elevator.
Notice of 24 hours is
necessary for Italian and
international rail travel.
Mechanized wheelchair-climber on a Venetian bridge d Italian Rail: 199 303060


Left Queues for Basilica San Marco Right Travelling by vaporetto

Things to Avoid
! Bringing Too
Much Luggage
pre-pay a return boat
ride to your hotel. In * Entering Churches
in Beachwear
Firstly because it will be Venice itself, dont fall for Catholic churches no
a hindrance in this car- the three boxes betting longer require visitors to
less city (you will have to trick which goes on cover their head, but do
carry it yourself) and illegally on bridges. still outlaw beachwear,
secondly because youll shorts, T-shirts and
want space for souvenirs.
^ Hidden Costs
Whether ordering a
photographs. Remember,
they are still places of
Sticking to the meal or taking a taxi or worship as well as
@ Beaten Track gondola, its a good rule art galleries.
If you veer away from to verify all charges
the signposted and
crowded triangle
beforehand to avoid nasty
surprises. Complaints can ( Counterfeit

between Rialto, San be addressed to the It is important to

Marco and Accademia, Tourist Board (041 529 remember that both the
you will most likely nd 8710 or complaint.apt@ customer and the vendor
yourself on some desert- Tipping can be ned up to
ed but charming canals (la mancia) in restaurants 10,000 for dealing in
and get a glimpse of real is at your own discretion fake designer items, such
Venetian life. as a service charge (ser- as the handbags which
vizio) is generally included. are readily available on
up the the streets.
& Buying Goods
Without a Receipt
People keep to the right
here. This habit is of Shopkeepers are obliged ) Getting Stranded
Venice isnt a huge
special importance in to provide customers city, but travelling by
narrow crowded with a receipt by law and vaporetto can be slow.
alleyways to ensure its also needed if you Allow plenty of transit
pedestrian ow, not to later decide to exchange time to reach the station
mention when youre an item and for customs to catch a train or to keep
negotiating the raised when you leave. an appointment.
walkways when the city
is ooded.

$ Smoking
By law, restaurants,
ofces and all public
premises throughout
Italy are all non-smoking
indoors. This prohibition
is taken seriously and
nes are fairly hefty!

% Scams
The Tronchetto Island
car park is akin to a
jungle. Dont believe
anyone who claims to be
a parking attendant (there
arent any) and dont Alcohol in moderation is part of Venetian life

Left Public telephone sign Right Browsing at a newsstand

Banking & Communications

! Currency
Italy is one of the $ Travellers
white T sign. Air mail
has been replaced with
EU members using the Choose a well-known Posta Prioritaria for a
common currency, the company such as Visa or faster service.
euro (), which replaced Thomas Cook, a major
the lira in January 2002.
Euro banknotes, which
currency such as sterling
or US dollars, and high & Internet
Internet points have
conveniently can be used denominations as a com- mushroomed in Venice
throughout many EU mission is payable for and range from cramped
countries, have seven each transaction. You need single-computer affairs to
denominations: 5, 10, 20, to show identication to ashy modern premises
50, 100, 200 and 500. cash cheques. Keep the such as InternetPoint
There are also eight coin receipt and a note of (extended opening
denominations: 2 and serial numbers separate hours). Budget
1, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 from the cheques in case hotels are now installing
and 1 cents. Visitors of loss. Travellers e-mail points as well.
from outside the euro cheques in euros are d InternetPoint: Campo S
zone should check the increasingly available. Stefano, S Marco 2967-
exchange rates at the 2968 Map M5
time of travel.
% Changing Money
Exchange ofces are
* Telephones
@ Cash Dispensers
abundant and usually keep
long hours, weekends
Theres a public
phone on every corner in
Cashpoints are plentiful and public holidays Venice and pre-paid
all over Venice, usually included. Compared to phonecards (scheda
outside bank premises, banks they demand telefonica) are sold
and allow you to with- a higher commis- at tobacconists;
draw money around the sion and give a remove the dotted
clock. The logos of the slightly lower corner before use.
cards accepted are on rate but they Dial the zero of
display. Automatic cur- mean less paper- all area codes.
rency exchange machines work and shorter
with multilingual instruc-
tions can also be found
queues. Its worth
shopping around to ( Press
Newsstands at
in key tourist points. compare rates. Post hot spots such as
ofces also have the railway station
Credit Cards
The most convenient
exchange facilities. and Rialto sell Time
magazine, several
way to carry money and
a great help in an ^ Post Offices
The main Rialto
UK newspapers such
as the Guardian, and
emergency. All the GPO is open Mon- Post Ofce the International
major credit cards day to Saturday, sign Herald Tribune.
(MasterCard, Visa, 8:30am6:30pm,
American Express) are
widely accepted in
the branch on Lista di
Spagna, Monday to Friday ) TV
Increasing numbers
restaurants, shops, 8:30am2pm, Saturday of hotels provide satellite
hotels, and can also be 8:30am1pm, as is the TV for guests so English-
used to obtain a cash one off Piazza San language stations, such
advance. Diners Card is Marco. Stamps are also as CNN, BBC World
often quoted as the sold at tobacconists Service and Sky News,
unwanted exception. displaying a black-and- are common.


Left Policemen in Venice Right Crowds of tourists

Security & Health

! Police
Two police forces
(cheques) Thomas Cook:
freephone 800 872050 * Hospitals
Pronto soccorso is
operate in Italy. The blue- (cheques) the round-the-clock
uniformed polizia answer casualty department in
freephone 113 emergency
calls, while the military % Women Travellers
Dangerous situations
hospitals (ospedale),
whose staff are usually
carabinieri in red-and- are unusual in Venice as familiar with the main
black gear respond to law the main streets are European languages.
and order problems on rarely empty. However Venices main hospital is
freephone 112. Thefts keep away from the Lido the Ospedale Civile.
and serious problems can beaches at night and d Campo SS Giovanni e
be reported to either stick to busy areas. Chat- Paolo Map R2
force. d Polizia: Fonda- ting up foreign women
menta S Lorenzo,
Castello 5053, Map F3
continues to be a popular
pastime for Venetian men. ( Ambulances
Telephone 118 (free
Carabinieri: Campo S call) anywhere in Italy for
Zaccaria, Castello
4693/A, Map F4 ^ Health Insurance
Visitors from EU
an ambulance, including
a waterborne ambulanza
countries should be in Venice. Give the name
@ Pickpockets
Street crime is rela-
equipped with a
European Health
of a prominent landmark
nearby to help them
tively unusual in Venice Insurance Card (EHIC) to locate you.
but by no means lacking. avoid emergency fees.
Pickpockets prey on tou-
rists in crowded places,
Australia also has a
reciprocal health agree- ) Public
notably Piazza San Marco ment with Italy so the These are signposted
and on waterbuses. Put appropriate paperwork is with a blue-green-white
valuables in the hotel needed. All other nation- WC logo and are open
safe if possible and dont alities should take out daily 8/9am7/8pm and
keep any on show. private health insurance. cost around 50 cents.

& Pharmacies
Seek advice at a
Consulates &
Venice itself does not pharmacy (farmacia) to
have major embassies in treat a minor ailment Australia
the city, but the nearest English is widely under- Via Borgogna 2, Milan
Italian consulates and stood. Outside shop hours 02 777 041
embassies will be able to check the pharmacys Canada
assist (see box). door or the local paper Il Via Zara 30, Rome
Gazzettino for the night 06 854 442 911
Lost Credit Cards pharmacy roster. New Zealand
$ and Travellers Via Terraggio 17, Milan
Cheques 02 721 70001
The minute you realize United Kingdom
either are missing report Via San Paolo 7, Milan
it to the relevant number. 02 723 001
d Visa: freephone 800 United States
819041 (cards and Via Principe Amadeo
cheques) American 2/10, Milan
Express: +44 1273 868 900 02 290 351
(cards); 800 914912 Pharmacy sign

Left Restoration workshop Right Glassblowing techniques

Studying in Venice
! Art Courses
Atmospheric studio
a summer watercolour
course, or drawing, fresco
d La Ciotola, Via Candia 24,
Lido (near Palazzo del
that offers tuition in painting, self-portraiture Cinema) Map H2 041
sculpture, watercolours, and printmaking. The 242 0308 www.
printing techniques and internationally known
drawing, both short school can accommodate
and long term.
d Bottega del Tintoretto,
students in its apartments.
d Scuola Internazionale di * Italian Cooking
Qualied chef Fulvia
Fondamenta dei Mori, Graca, Calle del Cristo starts her short-term
Cannaregio 3400 Cannaregio 1798 Map C1 and year-round cooking
041 722 081 www. 041 721 950 www. courses with a visit to the Rialto market (see
p28) to familiarize food
@ University Italian Restoration
Language Courses % Techniques
buffs with the ingredients
they will be practising on
The Ca Foscari The Venice European in her marvellous home.
Universitys language Centre for the Trades and d Fulvia Sesani, Ramo del
centre offers semi- Professions of the Con- Pestrin, Castello 6140
intensive courses several servation of Architectural Map F3 041 522 8923
times a year. Enrolment Heritage in Thiene runs fulvia.sesani@
covers unlimited access courses in restoration
to a multimedia lab of everything from stone
with audio and video
cassettes, DVDs, TV,
and stucco work to
wrought iron and mosaics. ( Mask-making
Starting with the
books and magazines. d Via Trieste 43, Thiene, clay mould, you learn to
d Centro Linguistico Vicenza 044 537 2329 produce and decorate a
Ateneo, San Sebastiano, papier-mch mask at
Dorsoduro 1686 Map B5 the short courses held in
041 234 7311 ^ Glassmaking
Expert craftsmen
the Ca Macana
workshop. For people
run courses not only who dont mind getting
Istituto Venezia
Italian Language
in glassblowing and
beads, but also stucco,
their hands dirty. Courses
are taught in various
Courses furniture restoration European languages.
Group and individual and artistic glass. d Calle delle Botteghe,
courses in Italian lang- d Confartigianato, Calle Dorsoduro 3172 Map K6
uage and culture are Carminati, Castello 5653/4 041 277 6142 www.
held year-round at the 041 529 9270
institute, and the school
can also arrange family
) Rowing
or private accommod-
ation for students. & Ceramics
Small groups are
Enrol for traditional
standing-up style Veneto
d Rio Terr Canal, Dorsoduro instructed by Sybille rowing lessons at this
3116/A Map K5 041 Heller in the art of hand- prestigious club. Courses
522 4331 www. moulded, wheel-turned are usually held in spring, pottery and a variety of though retirees are
decorative techniques. often on hand to help
$ Watercolour
Courses commence in
March and September,
beginners at other times.
d Canottieri Bucintoro
Spend an intensive and are held two Zattere, Dorsoduro 15
week in the open air on afternoons a week. Map D5 041 520 5630


Left Cipriani garden Right Excelsior

Luxury Hotels
! Cipriani
Set on its own glori-
history (see p101) attracts
many guests. The best
beach. A swimming pool
and exclusive restaurants
ous island, the famed rooms are in the old wing, are also a feature.
Cipriani is a matter of overlooking the Riva degli d Lungomare Marconi 41,
minutes across the water Schiavoni.d Riva degli Lido Map H2 041 526
by exclusive launch to Schiavoni, Castello 4196 0201 www.hotelexcelsior
Piazza San Marco. It has Map R5 041 522 6480 Closed
a private garden with a www.starwoodhotels. Novmid-Mar
salt-water pool, and three com
top-class restaurants (see
p58). d Giudecca 10 Map Molino Stucky * Metropole
Majestic good
E6 041 520 7744 www. % Hilton value establishment, Closed This red-brick converted immaculately run. On
JanFeb our mill on the Giudecca the waterfront only
may have slightly minutes from San Marco,
@ Luna Hotel
anonymous rooms but
the bar, dining and
it boasts a wonderful
garden, a perfect
Exquisite service in a tness facilities are hard antidote from the city
sophisticated atmosphere to beat. Highlights are a streets, and a two
of chandeliers and marble. rooftop terrace and open- Michelin star restaurant.
This is Venices oldest air swimming pool. d Riva degli Schiavoni,
hotel and hosted Templar d Giudecca 810 Map C6 Castello 4149 Map F4
knights in the 1100s 041 272 3311 www. 041 520 5044 www.
waiting to embark for the
Crusades. Breakfast is
served in the drawing
room frescoed by pupils ^ Grand Hotel
Palazzo dei Dogi ( Europa & Regina
Sumptuous decor in
of Tiepolo (see p44). With a marvellous garden this elegant historic
d Calle Larga dell stretching back to the palace right on the Grand
Ascension, S Marco 1243 lagoon, this former con- Canal, close to the Piazza
Map P5 041 528 9840 vent on a quiet Canna- San Marco. d Corte regio canal is superbly Barozzi, S Marco 2159
furnished with Murano Map P6 041 240 0001
chandeliers and fabrics www.westineuropa
crafted by leading
artisans. Best value No
disabled access
Contemporary luxury luxury hotel in town with
best describes this hotel
with a roof-level sauna
its own guest launch.
d Fondamenta Madonna ) San Clemente
and gym. Private canal dellOrto, Cannaregio Well away from the city
access means guests 3500 Map D1 041 220 bustle, this luxury
can arrive by water taxi. 8111 www.boscolo island-hotel has vast
d Calle dei Fabbri, S Marco gardens as well as an
4680 Map Q4 041 296 outdoor swimming pool.
3111 www.palacebon & Excelsior Palace
Crawling with stars
Guests are ferried to
Piazza San Marco by
and paparazzi during the private launch. Rooms
$ Hotel Danieli
While the service
summer Film Festival
(see p62), this graceful
are immaculate and
spacious. d Isola di San
leaves much to be mega-hotel has magni- Clemente 1 041 244 5111
desired, the hotels cent rooms right on the

144 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
Price Categories
For a standard, under 100
double room per 100150
night (with breakfast 150250
if included), taxes 250350
and extra charges. over 350

Left Casa Cardinal Piazza Right Hotel Gobbo sign

Budget Hotels
! Casa Cardinal
Piazza $ IlGreat-value
Lato Azzurro
d Campo S Geremia 312,
Cannaregio Map C2
Great-value palace guest- on this garden island 041 715 001 www.
house run by friendly where sea breezes are No air
nuns and set in a shady ensured. They arrange conditioning No disabled
garden right on the canoe trips, bicycles, access
lagoon edge. Breakfast picnic lunches and half
available; 11pm curfew.
d Fondamenta Contarini,
board, entailing mainly
vegetarian meals with * Al Campaniel
Cannaregio 3539/A locally grown produce. Spanish-Venetian couple
Map D1 041 721 388 d Via Forti 13, SantErasmo Gloria and Marco are
No credit cards No air Map H2 041 523 0642 discreet and highly
conditioning No disabled professional hosts who
access No air conditioning offer spotless rooms
close to the San Tom
@ San Giorgio
Monastery % Istituto Artigianelli
Close to the sunny
boat stop. Each room has
tea- and coffee-making
The monks on San Zattere, this religious- facilities. d Calle del
Giorgio Island, just trade institution has Campanile, S Polo 2889
across the Canale di San modern rooms with bath. Map L4 041 275 07 49
Marco from Piazza San Book in advance.
Marco, welcome guests d Rio Terr Foscarini, No disabled access
to their peaceful Dorsoduro 909/A Map C5
premises. A simple
breakfast is provided and
041 522 4077 ( Istituto
self-catering acccommo- A modernized, converted
dation is also available. convent with vast
There are superb views
of Venice from the ^ Domus Civica
These university
courtyards to wander
around. Automatic
square in front of the rooms are available in distributing machines for
church. d Isola di San the summer months snacks and drinks,
Giorgio Maggiore Map F5 (JulSep). Discounts otherwise its not far to
Phone: 041 241 4717 for students and Rolling the Zattere. Theres a
Fax: 041 520 6579 Venice participants midnight curfew.
No credit cards (see p137). No meals, d Fondamenta delle
but plenty of cafs in Eremite, Dorsoduro 1323
Gerotto the vicinity. d Campiello
Chiovere, S Polo 3082
Map K6 041 240 97 13
Handy for the station, Map B3 041 721 103 No air conditioning
with airy rooms, some No en-suite bathrooms No disabled access
with bath (no breakfast). No air conditioning No
Clientele are welcomed
by enthusiastic English-
disabled access www. ) Al Santo
This simple hotel
speaking staff. Bargain is very conveniently
down the rates in low
season. d Campo S & Al Gobbo
The Hunchback is a
located, only a 10-minute
stroll from Paduas
Geremia, Cannaregio 283 clean small-scale hotel main sights (see p123).
Map C2 041 715 361 with a couple of rooms d Via del Santo 147,
www.casagerottocalderan. overlooking a bustling Padua 049 875 2131
com No credit cards square. Easy access from
No disabled access the railway station.

Recommend your favourite hotel on 145


Left Locanda Cipriani Right Hotel Marconi

Hotels with Charm

! Pensione
Palazzo Abadessa
Murano glass
No disabled access
In 1877 Ruskin stayed at chandeliers and lovely Closed Jan
this guesthouse on the fabrics add to the
Zattere, as the friendly
staff eagerly explain. Of
authentic atmosphere at
this delightful palace hotel & Ca del Borgo
course, the rooms have with a garden. d Calle 15th-century villa located
been modernized since Prili, Cannaregio 4011 on the southern end of
those days but they have Map D2 041 241 3784 the Lido, in an old shing
retained their charm and No village. Easy access to
parquet oors. An exclu- disabled access Venice and the beach.
sive street-level terrace d Piazza delle Erbe 8,
overlooks the Giudecca
Canal, while another $ Ca della Corte
Malamocco Map F1
041 770 749 www.
surveys the rooftops. bed-and-breakfast with
Advance reservations spotless rooms, which
are essential. d Zattere,
Dorsoduro 780 Map D5
boast all the latest
equipment, such as * Hotel Marconi
Popular hotel by
041 520 6466 www. satellite TV. Very handy to Rialto Bridge, with outside No Piazzale Roma. seating reserved for
disabled access d Corte Surian, D