The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here

THE BEST
SKIN
OF YOUR
LIFE
STARTS
HERE
BUSTING BEAUTY MYTHS SO YOU
KNOW WHAT TO USE AND WHY
PAULA BEGOUN
BRYAN BARRON
DESIREE STORDAHL
Co-Authors: Bryan Barron and Desiree Stordahl
Editor: John Hopper
Research Assistants: Mercedes Santaella-Lam, Vanessa Lucas, and Nathan Rivas
Art Direction, Cover Design and Typography: Erin Bloom and Andrew Eder
Production Manager: Karen Link
Copyright 2016, Paulas Choice, LLC
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used for any purpose other
than personal use. In addition, any reproduction, modification, or transmis-
sion in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photo-
copying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, is strictly
prohibited without prior written permission from Paulas Choice, LLC, except
for the inclusion of quotations in a review.
PUBLISHERS DISCLAIMER
The intent of this book is to present the authors ideas and perceptions
about the marketing, sale, and use of cosmetics, as well as to present consum-
ers with information and advice regarding the purchase of makeup and skin-
care products. The information and recommendations presented in this book
strictly reflect the authors opinions, perceptions, and knowledge about the
subject and products mentioned.
It is everyones inalienable right to judge the products and information pre-
sented here based on their own criteria and to disagree with the authors. More
important, because everyones skin can, and probably will, react to external
stimuli at some point in their lifetime, any product can potentially cause a
negative reaction on skin, at one time or another. If you develop skin sensitiv-
ity to a cosmetic, stop using it immediately and consult your physician.
If you need medical advice about your skin, you should consult a dermatol-
ogist or physician. The authors are not medical doctors or professional health-
care providers and they do not provide medical advice or medical diagnoses.
This book does not offer medical advice or attempt to diagnose or take care
of any skin problem, disease, or skin concern or any other health or medical
problem or concern. If you have a medical concern or problem with your skin,
please make an appointment to see a dermatologist or physician in your area.
Do not use or rely on the statements in this book for medical advice, to
determine any medical condition, or as an alternative to medical advice from
your doctor or other professional healthcare providers. Consult a doctor or
other professional healthcare provider if you have any questions about any
medical matter and seek immediate medical attention if you believe you or
others may be suffering from any medical concern or disorder.
Any information provided by the authors is, at best, of a general nature
and cannot substitute for the advice of a medical professional, such as a quali-
fied doctor/physician, dermatologist, nurse, or pharmacist. All products men-
tioned in this book should be used as directed on the product container or on
the website from where such products were purchased. Discontinue using any
product that causes irritation (e.g., redness, itching, burning, scaling, soreness,
or other symptoms).
DO NOT DELAY SEEKING MEDICAL ADVICE, DISREGARD MEDICAL
ADVICE, OR DISCONTINUE MEDICALLY PRESCRIBED PRODUCTS BE-
CAUSE OF INFORMATION OR STATEMENTS PROVIDED IN THIS BOOK.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now..................................... 1
2. Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know...................................................15
3. What Every Skin Type Needs............................................................................25
4. Skin Type vs. Skin Concern................................................................................27
5. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont......33
6. How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine...............................49
7. Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered................................57
8. Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out.......................................63
9. The Anti-Aging Diet...............................................................................................71
10. Managing Oily Skin................................................................................................73
11. Dry Skin.......................................................................................................................77
12. Balancing Combination Skin.............................................................................83
13. Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age)..................................87
14. How to Fade Post-Acne Marks.........................................................................91
15. Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots.......................................................................93

PREFACE
The One Constant Is Change
One of the most incredible aspects of the cosmetics industry, especially

surrounding skincare products, is how rapidly the technology and our under-
standing of the physiology and biology of skin has changed and evolved. Over
the past 30 years, I have been amazed by the research and serious investiga-
tions into how skin functions that have shed new light on the best possible
ways to take care of skin. I have watched with awe and respect as new ingredi-
ents, new combinations of ingredients, and the promising hopes of new scien-
tific discoveries have transformed what cosmetics products can do.
My team continually seeks new data and studies on skin and skincare, and
we use those findings to update our Expert Advice articles and the Cosmetic
Ingredient Dictionary on PaulasChoice.com. I emphasize our steadfast use of
research-based information because I know how easy it is to be lured in by a
new so-called miracle product or by an ingredient that the cosmetics industry
is serving up as the next best thing. Unfortunately, succumbing to such seduc-
tions can be detrimental for your skin. Weve seen fad ingredients come and
go, some linger longer than others and some just wont go away despite their
negative effects on skin.
Cutting through the hype to find out exactly what the scientific and pro-
fessional communities and their substantiated studies have to say about skin
and skincare can play a major role in getting you the best skin of your life. Ive
been providing this kind of information for 30 years, and my team and I are
devoted to continuing that mission. We are committed to helping you have
the best skin of your lifenow and in the futureand we are here to help you
every step along the way!
C HAPTE R 1
The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now
The title of this book and the name of this chapter make bold statements,
yet I make them with the utmost confidence. Thats because the information
youll find on every page is based on what current research shows can help you
solve your skin concerns by using a step-by-step cohesive skincare system you
can understand and put into action. If you do this, I just know that you can
have and maintain the beautiful skin youve always wanted! All the details,
recommendations, and encouragement I present throughout this book are
what you need to get yourself on the fast track to finding the best products
and best answers for your skin.
FROM PAULA
This book was compiled by a talented team of experts; I just happen to be
one with who has been in the world of cosmetics the longest and have been
writing books about beauty since 1985. If youre not familiar with my work,
Ive been studying, reviewing, and researching scientific and medical journals
about skincare for over three decades. I have a background in science from
my university studies, and I was a lifestyle reporter in Seattle for four years.
Starting in 1985and now with this Special Digital Edition bookIve written
21 books on beauty, skincare, makeup, and haircare (the first entitled Blue Eye-
shadow Should Be Illegal), several of them well over 1,000 pages, with millions
of copies sold around the world.
I am also founder of Paulas Choice Skincare, which I launched in 1995,
a collection of products I formulated with options for practically every skin
type and skin concern. Of course, I love my products and, of course, its my
preference for you to consider them when choosing products for taking the
best care of your skin. But, I also know that there are many beneficial products
2 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
from other lines that you can choose, I want to be sure you understand how to
take the best care of your skin, no matter whose products you use.
It has always been my mission to help you get the best skin of your life and
to know what you should and should not do, AND to find the products that
are ideal for your skin type and your skin concerns, whether they are my prod-
ucts or someone elses.
PAULAS JOURNEY
Ive had a love-hate relationship with the cosmetics industry from the very
beginning. It started with an intense curiosity and passion for skincare and
makeup when I was a teenager. My passion wasnt because I was fixated on
buying cosmetics for fun; rather, it was about trying to take care of my prob-
lem skin that progressively got worse and worse no matter what I used or what
expert I consulted. It was an emotional ordeal for me and, to this day, it is still
painful for me to remember the stress and embarrassment of dealing with the
unsightly skin problems I suffered through as a teen.
At the age of 11, it started with terrible acne and super-oily skin along with
debilitating eczema over 60% of my body (in school I had to wear gloves to
hold a pencil because my hands were so raw and sore from my incessant
scratching of the eczema-caused itching).
All I wanted at the time were effective products that would do as they
claimed. This didnt seem like too much to ask, right? Given how many times
I was told month after month, year after year, how different products would
end my struggle, surely something would work. However, over the next 20
years, no matter where I turned, whether to cosmetics counters, drugstores,
spas, or even doctors offices, almost every product I tried led to disappoint-
ment. Despite the promises and claims, my skin rarely showed any signs of
improvement, and it gradually just got worse! I felt helpless! I was in a frus-
trating cycle of trying to find products that workedevery time it led to dis-
appointment, and continued suffering. Yet, like most women, that didnt stop
me from trying again and again.
Finally, in my twenties, I came to the realization that most skincare claims
were either seriously misleading, just plain wrong, or, at best, delusional. I was
determined to find out the truth about skin and skincareit became a com-
pulsion, eventually leading me to take my first steps into a career in the world
of cosmetics.
It was by no means a straight path, and I had no idea that it would lead me
to where I am today; I only knew I was on a personal pursuit, which eventually
became a global mission, and I have never wavered from that mission through-
The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now 3
out all the years Ive been doing this. I didnt want anyone to go through what
I went through ever again. In looking over my evolving career, I believe Ive
accomplished much of what I set out to do. But Im not quitting! Theres still a
lot of work and research yet to be done.
PAULAS LIFE-CHANGING MOMENT!

I started my cosmetics career back in 1977. During my early years working
as a makeup artist, as well as selling skincare and makeup products, I didnt
know many of the technical details of why so many skincare and makeup
products failed abysmally to live up to their claims; I just knew they didnt
work as advertised. More often than not, the claims made for the products
and what they were supposed to do rarely matched their performance, or even
came close, but at the time I had no way to confirm my suspicions; there was
no Internet as we know it today and no one had personal computers.
It was about that time one of the most historic advancements in the world
of cosmetics was taking place. In 1977, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) finalized the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, a piece of cosmetic reg-
ulation that was about to change the face of beauty forever, and my future as
well. What took placeafter many years of legal wrangling and deliberation
was the mandatory requirement for all cosmetics to include a complete list of
ingredients printed on the products packaging, in descending order of con-
tent; that is, the ingredients first on the list were there in the largest amounts
and the ingredients at the end of the list were present in the tiniest amounts.
Its difficult to imagine now how significant and radical an event that was.
The United States passed this regulation in 1977; the next country to mandate
cosmetic ingredient labeling (Australia) didnt enact it until 1995! Other coun-
tries didnt follow suit until 2000 through 2009.
Needless to say, I was very pleased to finally know what was in a cosmetic,
but, at the same time, it was a disappointment because so many of the ingre-
dient names were indecipherable (and many still are to this day). Here was this
amazing information on the label, but I had no idea what I was reading and,
on top of that, there were (and are) thousands of different ingredients that a
cosmetics chemist could use to make a product. It made my head spin, but it
also began my research to learn what it all meant, and then to write my books,
and, eventually, to create Paulas Choice Skincare.
JUST KNOWING INGREDIENTS ISNT ENOUGH

As fascinating as it was to finally know what ingredients products actual-
ly contained, and whether or not those ingredients were actually effective or
beneficial, or even problematic, it wasnt enough. In other words, although I

now knew the function of an ingredient in a formula, there were still funda-
mental and complicated questions remaining. I still needed to know which
ingredients, in what amounts, and in what types of products would work best
for which skin type and which skin concerns, from bumpy skin to signs of
aging, dry skin, redness, oily skin, combination skin, environmental damage,
sun protection to reduce the risk of early signs of aging (and skin cancer) from
sun damage, loss of firmness, clogged pores, and on and on.
It was even more complex to understand what should be done if someone
had multiple problems, like oily skin and signs of aging with occasional bumps
or enlarged pores, or dry skin with redness and environmental damage? Many
people, including me, deal with frustrating combinations like this, and it can
be incredibly confusing to know how to take care of seemingly contradictory
skin concerns.
The most basic question is: What kinds of products can be combined into
a cohesive routine that takes into account everything someone needs and ex-
cludes what is absolutely not neededto have beautiful, healthy skin?
ANCIENT WISDOM WAS NOT VERY WISE

At least not when it came to skincare! On completing each book, I would
think I had finally said it all, and that now people could find their way to hav-
ing the best skin possible, so I would never have to write another beauty book
and get on with my life. Obviously, that wasnt the case, as I went on to write
many more books and articles. I would have loved it if my first book could
have covered everything, but as countless new studies were conducted and
scientific discoveries were published, knowledge about skincare progressed
and changed, and so did our conclusions and recommendations about what
would and wouldnt work for skin.
As the research evolved, so did the work, as we needed to incorporate what
the most current research demonstrated to be true for skin. Each new book
reflected the most recent significant and meaningful information so you could
stay informed and be able to take the best care of your skin. And, as with every
book before it, beautiful skin is what this book and Paulas Choice Skincare is
all about!
Many people ask us: Why does skincare have to be so complicated? Believe
me, I wish it werent, but it is. People sometimes tell me, Well, my grand-
mother just used bar soap and she looked great! I have no doubt grandma was
a beautiful woman, but I would no sooner expect you to use a typewriter rath-
er than your computer or a rotary dial phone rather than your smart phone
just because those devices worked well for your grandmother. Like laptops
and smart phones, advances in skincare reflect the same concept in terms of
the innovative and cutting-edge technology used to develop todays best prod-
ucts to take the best care of your skin.
Taking care of your skin in some ways is as complicated as rocket science
because skin is so multifaceted and complex but the goal of this book is to
bring it down to earth for you so you can make the best decisions for your skin.
Summing it up: Dont cheat your skin by accepting myths about skincare
as facts. Even as little as 20 years ago, there was little to no information about
the need for broad-spectrum sun protection, antioxidants, skin-replenishing
ingredients, skin-restoring ingredients, skin issues involving environmental
assault, and on and on.
REGRETTABLY THERE ARE NO MIRACLES

Despite all the research and new skincare technology, its important to re-
member that there are no miraculous ingredients when it comes to skincare.
This is one of the more difficult facts for people to accept because cosmetics
companies endlessly parade new ingredients with elaborate and enticing
and fabricatedstories about their wondrous effects on skin.
It is not easy to ignore the barrage of inducements, from argan oil, to mel-
on from France, yeast from monasteries in Japan, sea kelp developed by an
aeronautics scientist, snake venom, rare earth minerals, or some unknown
plant from some exotic region of the world. (Of course, it would never be a
plant from your neighborhood, as that just wouldnt make as good a story.)
Please try to resist being seduced by yet another plant extract, exotic plant
oil, or some manufactured ingredient because, without exception, this belief
will be a disaster for your skin. Its not that new ingredients are not fascinating
and potentially very beneficial for skin, but skin is too complicated for any sin-
gle ingredient to be enough. If anything, just the opposite is true: Skin needs a
vast array of substances to be healthy, renewed, replenished, hydrated, and to
feel and look firmer and smoother.
THE GENESIS OF PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE

Paulas Choice Skincare was launched in 1995 and I am very proud of the
more than 100 products my team and I have created. That was almost 10 years
to the day after I published my first book in 1985. What a remarkable journey
it has been and continues to be!
Creating my own line of skincare products was controversial given that
I had been such a strong and vocal critic of the cosmetics industry. Wasnt I
sleeping with the enemy and going over to the dark side? How could I ever be
impartial again? Those are good questions, but the answer is that anyone who
is familiar with my work over the years knows that I havent compromised my
principles or values for one moment. Paulas Choice Skincare is still the only
cosmetics company in the world that recommends products from other lines
and that also tells you what limitations exist in the world of skincare.
My reason for starting Paulas Choice Skincare was in large part due to
pressure from my friends, family, and readers of my books. They kept ask-
ing me to make my own products that didnt have all the buts and warn-
ings of the other products I reviewed. They would say, You always write this
product is good, but its too expensive for what you get, but it has too much
fragrance, but it comes in unstable packaging, but there are better prod-
ucts out there. Theyd practically yell at me, exclaiming: Just make your own
products so we know what to use, because otherwise its overwhelming, too
much to read, and theres no way to really know whats best! I understood
precisely what they were talking about, and thats when my mission in life
changed and expanded.
So, in 1993, I decided I could indeed make state-of-the-art products that
left out all the buts and that were loaded with ingredients research showed
were beneficial for skin. The idea for Paulas Choice Skincare was born; the
first eight products began arriving two years later!
As you can tell, my enthusiasm for writing my books and information on
my website didnt go away! I couldnt give up what I had been doing for the
previous 10 years of my life. Skincare information is not only my mission and
heritage; it is also my legacy. And, as it turned out, my books and formulating
products for Paulas Choice Skincare enhanced each other in tangible mean-
ingful ways.
SKIN FRUSTRATIONS ARE UNIVERSAL

My work has taken me to over 25 countries, giving me the opportunity to
give hundreds of media interviews and to hold speaking engagements in plac-
es such as Jakarta, Indonesia; Seoul, South Korea; Stockholm, Sweden; Mexi-
co City, Mexico; Singapore; Sydney and Melbourne, Australia; Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia; Amsterdam, The Netherlands; Moscow, Russia; Taipei, Taiwan; To-
ronto, Canada; and, of course, almost every major city in the United States.
What Ive learned is that the business of beauty is universally crazy. Theres
no place in the world where people arent frustrated about how to take the
best care of their skin. No matter where Ive been in the world, people are
equally concerned about looking younger and having picture-perfect skin.
As a result, I am asked the same questions wherever I go and I rarely have to

change my responses!
People want to know why a product they bought didnt work. Why didnt
their deep wrinkles go away? Why didnt their skin flaws change? Why wasnt
their skin tone improved? Why didnt their environmental assault change?
Why are they still getting bumps or clogged pores or just starting to have those
problems? Why do they still have dry, flaky skin after buying so many products
promising to make things better? Why is their skin so red and temperamental?
What are the best anti-aging ingredients? What are the best eye creams that
really do get rid of dark circles? Do I know about a recently launched product
with a supposed miracle ingredient and does it work? What about ingredients
from Morocco, the Amazon, India, China, or some other far-flung place?
During my presentations, Ive come to expect a look of understanding to
gradually wash over the audience members faces as they begin to grasp how
myths have taken over the facts about what is best for skin.
What people everywhere want is to take the best care of their skin, look
younger, and have an even skin tone, with no enlarged pores, bumps, dry skin,
and on and on. In each country I visit, without fail, beauty ideals revolve en-
tirely around youth and flawless skin, and how to get there and maintain it.
That last pointhow to get thereis inevitably accompanied by shared con-
fusion, worldwide. My team and I want to clear up that confusion for you here
and now! We dont want you to take our word for it. We want you to know
the facts!
AGE, SKIN COLOR, AND RACE ARE NOT SKIN

TYPES!
There are several aspects to understanding your skin type, but first you
must understand that your age, skin color, and race are not nearly as import-
ant or as relevant as knowing your skin type. I know that may be hard to be-
lieve, especially considering how often youve read statements to the contrary,
but its 100% true. It isnt that older skin isnt different from younger skin or
that darker skin color isnt different from lighter skin color, its just that when
it comes to how you take care of your skin and what you should and shouldnt
do, the research shows with very little exceptions those factors dont matter.
What does matter are the skin concerns youre dealing with and your skin
type. You can be 60 and have oily skin with bumps and environmental dam-
age, but someone can have the exact same issues at age 30. You can have a dark
skin color and what you need to do take care of your dry skin and wrinkles is
the same as for someone with a lighter skin color.
The types of ingredients and products that deal with dry skin, oily skin,
signs of aging, congested pores, uneven skin tone, marks from bumps, tem-
peramental skin, environmental assault (everyone has environmental dam-
age), combination skin, and on and on are essentially the SAME for everyone.
Think about it like a diet. Whats healthy or unhealthy to eat is general-
ly the same for everyone (save for individuals with specific allergies). Adding
more green, vegetables, whole grains, and fish rich in omega fatty acids to your
diet is healthy, while eating processed foods, deep-fried foods, and sugars are
not, no matter who you are and regardless of your age, race or where you live.
WHAT ARE THE BEST INGREDIENTS?

Aside from the fact that there are literally thousands of different ingredi-
ents that can be included in a skincare product, theres no all-inclusive way to
sum up which are the best. Actually, even to suggest theres any one ingredient
that will solve your skincare woes is just plain silly.
I wish skincare were as easy as finding the consummate skincare ingredient
that can do it all, but its not not even close. Skin, the largest organ of the
body, includes a vast range of substances and a beyond-imaginable number of
physiological processes and interactions that keep it young, radiant, smooth,
healthy, bump free, and even-toned. As you might suspect, countless things
can go wrong when these systems become damaged or start slowing down
due to age.
When skins natural systems of antioxidants, skin-replenishing, and
skin-restoring ingredients are abundant and working correctly, your skin has
a far better chance of looking younger, smoother, and radiant longer. But
when you dont protect your skin from sun damage with sunscreen (SPF 30 or
greater), get older, have midlife changes, experience health issues, smoke, and
are exposed to environmental assault the protective substances in your skin
break down, become depleted, and arent naturally replaced as they once were.
The only way to help skin regain those vital substances is to provide it with
the ingredients it desperately needs to replenish itself and meaningfully lessen
further problems. That process of rejuvenation and revitalization can never be
solved with any one ingredient or any one product.
The good news is that there are hundreds of great good-for-your-skin in-
gredients and products. But whenever you read that a specific vitamin, plant
oil, or plant extract is the best ingredient for skin, or one product can do it
all, ignore it. Once again, I want you to think about it like your diet, green tea
may be healthy for you to drink, but if you only drank green tea you would
rather quickly be risking your life. Think of your skin the same way; it needs a
range of substances naturally found in skin to keep feeding it day in and day
out to be as healthy as possible.
WHAT ABOUT NATURAL INGREDIENTS?

Natural or naturally derived and organic ingredients are a polarizing
topic. Some people devoutly believe that using skincare products containing
only natural or organic ingredients is the only way to take the best care of their
skin. It just isnt true. The fact is there are lots of natural ingredients that are
bad for skin and they show up in skincare products all the time. Natural does
not necessarily mean better; after all, cyanide, arsenic, and poison ivy are all
perfectly natural substances, and those should not be on your skin!
More to the point, there has been no standard set for what constitutes a
natural ingredient in a cosmetic. A plant still has to come out of the ground,
be processed, cleaned, debugged, preserved, and then mixed into a formula
and preserved once again. Whether or not that still makes the product natural
is anyones guess.
The question I always ask when evaluating any ingredient is: What poten-
tial benefit does it have for skin and what is its potential to cause a problem?
Is it a non-irritating ingredient or just the opposite? If it has the potential to
cause a problem for skin, how strong is that potential, and is there an alterna-
tive ingredient that provides the same benefit without such concerns?
You will be shocked to learn how many natural ingredients can be a prob-
lem for skin, and actually harm skin. Let me repeat: Not all natural skincare
ingredients are beneficial and not all synthetic ingredients are bad. Many
companies that tout their natural ingredients are the best for skin and that
synthetic ingredients are killing your skin are not telling the truth. Synthetic
ingredients are not inherently bad for skin, in fact, many synthetic ingredients
are actually brilliant for skin.
In short, there are good and bad natural and naturally-derived ingredients
and there are good and bad synthetic ingredients. Thats why we continual-
ly pore over the research literature, so we can relay to you the information
you need to ensure you are using only products that contain whats proven
to help skin and are avoiding those products loaded with ingredients that are
over-glorified and that cant perform as youve been told.
DONT TRY THIS ON YOURSELF

Im often asked why someone shouldnt just try a product to see if they like
it or just rely on someone elses experience with a product to decide if it might
work for their needs. I cant think of a bigger mistake for your skin than to rely
solely on personal assessment, whether yours or someone elses, to determine

the benefit and/or quality of a product.
We are not saying that you shouldnt use a product you like, but you should
make your selection only from the best-formulated products, those that are
right for your skin type and that have the best ingredients research has shown
to provide incredible results. How a product feels on your skin or someone
elses skin doesnt give you the crucial information you need about the quality
of any formula.
So, whats wrong with applying a product to see if it works? Its a very very
bad idea because just applying a skincare product, even for a relatively long
period, doesnt mean that youll be able to tell if its helping or hurting your
skin. This is true for many reasons.
First, there is an incredible risk to skin from using (or even just trying) a
badly formulated product. Just because someone likes the way a product feels
on their skin doesnt mean its a good product, for them or for you. They may
like the texture or the look of the product, but that doesnt tell you anything
about whether it is beneficial for skin or harmful for skin.
What it comes down to is that when it comes to skincare its just like your
diet, people often like what isnt good for them, whether in the short term or,
even more important, over the long term.
As for skincare, it is difficult, if not impossible, to tell whether a product is
good or bad just from applying it (you certainly cant tell that chocolate cake is
a problem and that kale is good for you).
For skincare the product may be packaged in a jar, which weakens the ben-
eficial ingredients; it may contain problematic ingredients and cause negative
results when used over the long term; it may contain nothing useful at all for
replenishing or renewing skin; or it may be a daytime moisturizer that doesnt
contain sunscreen, which wont help reduce the risk of early signs of aging or
the risk of skin cancer the truly serious results of sun damage.
Think about it this way: Just because someone swears by smoking for keep-
ing their weight down doesnt make smoking good for you. Just because some-
one likes tanning and thinks they are making lots of vitamin D for their skin
doesnt make it true or good for you. Just because eating and not exercising
feels better than exercising doesnt mean thats a good thing for you to do. I
could go on and on, but you get the point.
Its important to realize that skincare products can have positive or nega-
tive results and that those results can take years to show up. The benefit of a
healthy diet doesnt show up immediately; the same is true for a terrible diet,
where it can be years before you see the resulting negative effects.
This also holds true for badly formulated skincare products: The harm can
be ongoing and you wont know because the damage is taking place beyond
what your eyes can see. It can take years before you see the damage on the
surface of skin. I dont want any of us to wait years only to find out that what
we were using on our skin all along was detrimental.
It also isnt necessary to test drive a product to know its strengths or
weaknesses because first you cant tell, especially in the short term but
mostly because the research on most ingredients has already been carried
out so you can choose the formulas that only contain the good stuff and
none of the bad just as is true for food or medicine.
You dont need to eat processed foods to know how unhealthy they are for
you or to smoke cigarettes to find out years later that that was a bad choice.
A vast amount of research has already been done to determine what those
results will be; the same is true for skincare ingredients.
How skincare ingredients are combined and how they work in products is
well known from the ongoing research in the cosmetic, medical, and biological
sciences. Theres also extensive, documented medical and scientific research
about how different ingredients affect skin. The information we present about
ingredients is based on that research, which is why our recommendations can
really help you find products that work for your skin type and your skin con-
cerns and that you will enjoy usingbecause they really work!
CAN YOU READ AN INGREDIENT LABEL?

I wish I could teach everyone how to read an ingredient label because
therein lies the basic, but fundamental, information for determining the ef-
fectiveness and functionality of almost any skincare product. The ingredient
list is the key to understanding whether or not a products claims make any
sense and whether its problematic or beneficial for your skin. But, decipher-
ing the ingredient list is not easy, especially if you dont have a background in
cosmetic science or cosmetic formulation.
First and foremost is the sheer number of ingredients available for cosmet-
ic formulations. There are literally thousands of ingredients and thousands
upon thousands of potential combinations of those ingredients. The current
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) comprises four
huge printed volumes, and an online subscription costs thousands of dollars.
Even more confounding are the chemical names of the ingredients, at
times far too technical for most to understand. How can the average con-
sumer ever hope to comprehend what polymethylsilsesquioxane, palmitoyl
hexapeptide-12, or cetyl ricinoleate are, let alone understand what they do?
Even plant extracts have names that are incomprehensible such as Gaultheria
procumbens or Simmondsia chinensis.
Vitamin C is one of many great ingredients for skin, but even that has over
a dozen different forms with overly technical names on an ingredient label,
and each has its own benefit and usefulness in a formulation.
In addition to the difficulty of untangling an ingredient label and all the
claims espousing an ingredients or products benefits, there are also all the
horror stories about ingredients that you find on the Internet and in other
sources. Almost without exception, the fear-mongering youve read about
such ingredients as parabens, silicones, mineral oil, sulfates, and so on is just
plain wrong.
Sometimes the statements made about these types of ingredients (and
many, many others) are taken out of context from the research, leading to
irrelevant and silly conclusions. Sometimes the statements are made up out
of thin air, derived or extrapolated from unrelated sources, and/or have no
scientific basis (we cant tell you how often this happens).
Any ingredient can be made to sound scary by manipulating the facts.
For example, waters chemical name is Dihydrogen monoxide, which has been
confused repeatedly with the dangerous carbon monoxide because the two
have similar-sounding names. Plus, as innocuous as water seems, drinking too
much within a short period of time can cause serious health problems, and we
all know that you can drown if youre submerged in water for too long.
We cant tell you how many times weve heard various advocate groups
suggest that if you cant pronounce an ingredient name, it must be dangerous.
The absurdity of that is overwhelming to us. No one can pronounce a plants
real botanical name such as Symplocarpus foetidus (cabbage) or Rubus pensil-
vanicus (blackberry) but that doesnt make it automatically safe or unsafe.
To demonstrate how this fear-mongering works, Ill use mineral oil as an
example. There are those who want to scare you into believing that mineral
oil is bad for you, while the research reveals just the opposite. Not only is cos-
metic grade mineral oil natural (it comes from the earth), but the research also
makes it crystal clear that its one of the gentlest and safest skin care ingredi-
ents out there, especially for very dry skin and other serious skin damage. But
because it is associated with gasoline it has been labeled falsely as the source
of all evil for skin.
Other examples of ingredients that have been subject to fear-mongering
include silicones, which are a brilliant group of ingredients that have been
used in hospital intensive care units around the world for decades; sulfates,
which are not problematic and do not cause disease; and parabens, which are
some of the safest, most non-irritating preservatives ever used in cosmetics.
Authentic scientific and balanced information is out there, but it has been
a lifelong pursuit for me, and now my team, to filter through the research, not
something a consumer can easily pick up or find the time to figure out; even
people within the cosmetics industry have difficulty in this area, and so fall
prey to misleading or completely false information.
One other point, perhaps the most significant, is that even if you could
read and understand an ingredient label, how would you know which ingre-
dients are best for your specific skincare concerns, from acne to wrinkles and
everything in between. Thats where my team and I come in, and this book can
be your guide.
CHAPTE R 2
Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know
WHY YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE YOUR BEST SKIN YET

There are many reasons why you may not have the skin you want: sun
damage from not wearing sunscreen daily, your own biology, aging, midlife
changes, health issues, environmental assault, using skincare products that
dont contain non-irritating ingredients or beneficial ingredients, and on and
on. To one degree or another, all of these factors play a part in the complex
and continual process of deterioration that occurs both inside and outside the
body.
Over time, your personal biology, the environment, and skin care neglect
slowly weakens skin, decreases skins ability to keep itself young, healthy, even-
toned, and feeling firmer, to have fewer congested pores, to be bump-free, to
be hydrated, to feel and look smooth, and to be less oily.
Although all the factors mentioned above play havoc with your body and
skin due to the problems they trigger, what you put on your skin can have the
same effect, and often plays a significant role in what is going wrong. Skincare
products that arent gentle weaken skin and inhibit healthy normal-appearing
skin.
Understanding what your skin needs for your skin type and your skin con-
cerns is vital, but its equally important to know what your skin doesnt need.
Thats critical because the very skincare products you are using may, in fact, be
exacerbating the problems youre trying to fix.
Even after many years of looking at skincare formulations, it still shocks
us that many of the products people buy to take care of a specific skin con-
cern actually make it worse. For example, products youve purchased claiming
to control oily skin often contain ingredients that make skin oilier. Products
claiming to be oil-free often contain ingredients that nonetheless make skin
feel greasy. Products claiming they wont cause bumps may contain pore-clog-
ging, emollient ingredients that dont sound like they would be a problem be-
cause we dont recognize the names on the ingredient label. Products claiming
to be skin renewing contain ingredients that deplete skin. And theres always
the issue of daytime moisturizers not containing sunscreen.
NOT BEING GENTLE IS YOUR SKINS WORST ENEMY

I cannot stress this enough: Not being gentle is really, really bad for skin! In
addition to the huge daily assault our skin suffers from not wearing a product
with an SPF 30 or greater, it is also detrimental to assault skin by splashing it
with hot water and applying skincare products that contain skin-aggravating
ingredients or have a harsh texture. Those are serious problems and will not
help you achieve the best skin of your life. These types of attacks hinder skins
ability to stay hydrated, help skin replenish itself, keep the skins surface intact,
among many other complications.
For those with oily skin, its especially important to know that not being
gentle can trigger an increase in oil coming from the pores and make the pores
bigger! That is not good for any skin type!
It turns out that much of what we know about skin aging, the appearance
of wrinkles, uneven skin tone, skin renewing, and bumps has evolved from
our increased understanding of what results when you dont use gentle skin-
care products, dont use a sunscreen, endure the constant impact of pollution
on skin without protecting it with effective skin care formulations, and either
smoking cigarettes or being around those who do. All these activities trigger a
negative response in skin that leads to cumulative negative results.
SKINS SILENT KILLER

It would probably be easier for those who smoke cigarettes to stop smoking
if the damage it was causing on the inside showed itself instantly on the out-
side. Regrettably, that isnt the case; as we now know, it can take years for the
cumulative damage to show up. Interestingly, the same can be said for what
happens to skin when you do things that have a negative impact.
People often assume their skincare products arent hurting or aggravating
their skin because they dont feel or see any negative reactions. Unfortunately,
although we may not see or feel anything, there are serious negative processes
taking place beyond where we can see. When the skins surface hides the im-
pact of harsh or aggravating skincare products the problems may take a while
to show up on the on the surface but they will eventually and you wont think
its very pretty.
Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 17
You can get a clearer idea of how using products that arent gentle is caus-
ing this hidden, secret damage to skin by understanding what we know about
how skin reacts to unprotected sun exposure; that is, when you arent seeking
shade and are not wearing a sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater.
The sun is a major cause of early signs of skin aging and skin cancer. Yet,
other than the (hopefully) rare occasion when you get sunburned, you dont
feel or even see the damage being done to your skin from not wearing a sun-
screen rain or shine, until years later. Even more shocking is that the most
damaging rays of the sun can come through windows, and its for certain you
never feel thatnow that really is a silent killer!
FRAGRANCE: SMELLS LIKE TROUBLE FOR YOUR

SKIN
We are all attracted to a pleasing fragrance. In fact, the first thing most
people do when considering just about any skincare or haircare product is
smell it. As nice as it is to have a product with a wonderful aroma, it doesnt
make sense for good skincare. Whether the fragrance in the product is from a
plant or a synthetic source, with very few exceptions, what pleases your nose
is a problem for your skin.
The way most fragrance ingredients impart scent is through a volatile re-
action, which on your skin is anything but gentle, and which can cause a neg-
ative reaction that you rarely see on the surface. Research has established that
fragrant ingredients in skincare products are among the most common cause
of negative skin reactions. Fragrance-free is always the best way to go for all
skin types.
Unfortunately, your nose cannot determine from the smell of a product
whether or not it contains problematic fragrant ingredients or non-irritating
ingredients that happen to have an aroma. Many beneficial skincare ingredi-
ents that are completely gentle have a natural pleasant aroma and do great
things for skin. Distinguishing between the ingredients that actually do won-
derful things for skin and the ingredients that are added to make you shop
with your nose and cause problems is not easy.
Like anything in skincare, the basic information is on the ingredient label,
but because those ingredients read like an advanced college chemistry course,
they are often difficult to decipher, especially considering that the skin-aggra-
vating fragrant plant oils or extracts are listed only by their Latin names rather
than by the more obvious terms fragrance or parfum.
EVERYONE HAS SENSITIVE SKIN

Most of us, to one degree or another, have temperamental skin; that is, our
skin reacts negatively to the environment and can react negatively to what
we put on it. Regardless of your skin type or concerns, lots of things upset
our skin; some of which we can avoid and some we cant. However, we can
diminish much of the potential harm by using great skincare products that
are loaded with beneficial ingredients and are gentle and soothing to skin and
by being sun smart as we will explain throughout this book. The sun weakens
skin in so many ways its devastating for us to contemplate.
No matter how you think your skin reacts to different aspects of the envi-
ronment and to the products you use, we are all vulnerable to what happens
from using skincare products that arent gentle and are not protecting our
skin from the sun.
As mentioned above, whether you know it or not, you have sensitive skin
because your skin reacts negatively to many different things, and you cant
always tell what is taking place below the surface.
To take the best possible care of your skin, its essential you take the same
precautions that someone with more obviously sensitive skin takes: Regard-
less of your skin type, being as kind to your skin as possible along with using
outstanding effective and gentle skincare products is nothing less than bril-
liant.
Whether you think of your facial skin as normal, oily, dry, acne-prone, or
anything else, you still need to be gentle and avoid as much as possible things
that aggravate your skin, contain fragrance, or have abrasive textures like
scrubs. Taking care of your skin gently is a key step to getting and keeping the
skin you want!
DOES SKIN COLOR OR ETHNIC BACKGROUND

AFFECT WHAT SKINCARE PRODUCTS YOU USE?
It might surprise you to learn that whether your heritage is European,
Asian, or anywhere else in the world, you do not require special skincare prod-
ucts based on your skins color or your ethnic background. Why not? Because
skin color is not a skin type! None of the research on the differences between
ethnicities indicates that skin color has anything to do with the skincare prod-
ucts you need.
Darker skin tones do have some physiological differences from lighter skin
tones, but those differences dont affect what products you should be using.
Think of it like your diet: Regardless of our ethnic background or skin color,
we all still need the same nutritious foods to be healthy.
The exact same concept applies to skin. Skin is the bodys largest organ, and
everyones skin needs the same ingredients to address dry skin, acne, wrinkles,
sun protection, uneven skin tone, oily skin, redness, sensitive skin, and so on.
All of these problems affect every color of skin and the skincare ingredients
that resolve these issues dont change because of skin color.
Everyones skin also needs the same basic caregentle cleansing, sun pro-
tection, and state-of-the-art products for their specific skin type. Having dark-
er skin does not stop unprotected sun exposure from damaging skin.
It is also important to avoid problematic ingredients, such as alcohol, men-
thol, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemon, lime, and natural or synthetic fragranc-
es, because exposure to harsh ingredients will worsen any concern on any
color of skin.
Some of you may have read that Asian skin is more sensitive and, therefore,
that it is critical that Asians use non-irritating skincare products. Even if Asian
skin were more sensitive, it doesnt mean that those with non-Asian skin, any-
where in the world, should use products with potentially sensitizing or harsh
ingredients. Everyone, everywhere, should be gentle to their skin because us-
ing skin-aggravating products is detrimental, no matter who or where you are.
Whether you have normal, oily, combination, or dry skin or your skin con-
cerns include sun damage from not using an SPF product daily, the appearance
of wrinkles, large pores, breakouts, uneven skin tone, redness, loss of firmness,
and on and on, theres no research showing that different skincare formulas
are needed based on your race or heritage. Around the world, ingredients that
benefit skin and ingredients that are a problem for skin are the same.
Simply put, as far as biology and physiology are concerned, regardless of
your ethnic, racial, or cultural background, you do NOT need special skincare
products. Let go of this ideain most cases, it wont help (and could actually
hurt) your skin.
LIFE-LONG RULES FOR SKINCARE SUCCESS

One of the most important ways to achieve the best skin of your life is to
follow the fundamental rules of great skincare.
Be consistent. For best results, a great skincare routine should be used reg-
ularly. Some products you may use once or twice daily, others every other day,
or once a week, but consistency is the key.
Apply products in the right order. This is more important than people
think. For example, sunscreen should be the last skincare product you apply in
your morning skincare routine before you apply your foundation and the rest
of your makeup. This is very important so as not to dilute the sunscreen with
other skincare products. Its skincare details like this that are vital to getting
the best results from the products you choose and use.
Dont expect instant results. There are products that can have dramat-
ic, even overnight results, but they are the exceptions. It takes time for most
products to really make a difference, and maintaining those results requires
ongoing and regular use.
For example, products to brighten skin and create an even skin tone can
take three to six weeks to begin showing positive outcomes (assuming they are
well formulated and you are also using a sunscreen every day).
Products that are meant to protect and replenish skin and to defend it
against signs of aging and other problems may show instant hydration and
smoothness, but the long-term significant underlying benefit will take years
to see.
Using sunscreen every day helps protect skin from the serious consequenc-
es of sun damage, and youll see a dramatic difference in skin tone and dull
skin rather quickly when you start using it daily. But the real long-term benefit
of using sunscreen daily will become astonishingly evident later in life when
you compare your skin to the skin of friends who didnt protect their skin
from the sun. Then you will be thrilled that you followed our advice.
Your skin must be nourished and fed daily. As you age, and mostly be-
cause of sun damage from not wearing an SPF 30 or greater every day, your
skin cannot naturally replenish the substances it needs to be healthy. Great
skincare products give those substances back to skin. We cannot stress this
enough!
Skin-replenishing substances get used up quickly and must be resupplied
on a constant, daily basis, twice a day. Dont cheat your skin by not giving it
the indispensable ingredients it needs to maintain a beautiful, healthy appear-
ance, now and for years to come.
Skin doesnt renew itself only at night. We hear this repeatedly, skin re-
news itself only at night and needs special ingredients that it doesnt need
during the dayit isnt true. All of our skincare woes are happening all day
long, whether from the environment, daylight, aging, health problems, or
midlife changes. Skin needs help, day and night, to renew itself and minimize
more problems from taking place. Also, there is no research showing that
there are skincare ingredients your skin needs at night that it doesnt need
during the day, although during the day, the important skincare ingredients
must be accompanied by sun protection.
One product cant do it all. All skin types (especially if you have multiple
concerns) require a variety of products to give you the best skin of your life. For
some people basic core products you need for every day (i.e., cleanser, toner,
exfoliant, sunscreen for daytime, and moisturizer at night) can be all you need
to take the best care of your skin. But if you have special skin concerns, such
as very dry skin, advanced signs of aging, extremely oily or extremely combi-
nation skin, uneven skin tone, among many other concerns, you will need to
address those with specialized products designed for that specific problem.
For issues like skin brightening, advanced sun damage, enlarged pores,
clogged pores, dehydrated skin, rough skin texture, or acne, your basic core
skincare routine will likely not be enough. Layering targeted solution prod-
ucts specially designed for your specific skincare concerns will be the optimal
way to get the best results possible from your skincare routine.
Regularly use a leave-on exfoliant. The benefit to your skin from using a
gentle leave-on exfoliant with AHA or BHA can be astounding and can show
immediate results. Helping skin naturally shed the build-up of dead surface
skin without any abrasion or harsh scrub particles can make all the difference
in the world. The feeling of smoothness you will experience from the first day
you start using it will surprise you. Keep in mind the cause of the build-up of
dead surface skin doesnt go away permanently rather an AHA or BHA exfo-
liant is a maintenance step that you must apply consistently to take excellent
care of your skin.
And do not use an abrasive scrub or rough cleansing brush. The scraping
these cause creates negative consequences that can make many skin concerns
worse.
Do consider a retinol and/or niacinamide product. There are so many
reasons to apply a well-formulated retinol or niacinamide product its hard to
know where to begin. We will focus on retinol and how it relates to specific
skin types and concerns later, but for now, just know that both these skin-re-
storing ingredient help all skin types be healthier, unclog pores, smooth skin,
and improve the appearance of wrinkles and bumps.
Of course, skin needs more than any one or two ingredients can provide,
but retinol and niacinamide are two of those ingredients with special prop-
erties that works for everyone, and the results can be amazing, over the short
term and the long term.
Pay attention when your skin changes. There are all sorts of things that
can cause your skin to change seemingly overnight. Many women are aware
of how monthly changes affect their skin; others experience skin differences
when midlife changes start taking place. Seasonal weather variances, travel-
ing to different climates, and extreme emotional stress can all affect your skin
negatively.
Given that most peoples skin is not static, it is often necessary to adapt
your skincare routine accordingly. For example, even if you never have had a
bump or oily skin growing up, midlife changes or just cycle changes can make
your skin react in a completely new way. If that happens, youll need to re-
consider the skincare products you are using and change to products that are
appropriate for your new skin type. That may mean you need to create an
entirely new skincare routine, but far more typically you just need to add one
or two products to what you are already using and/or stop using one or two
products in your routine.
Everyone needs the same vital ingredients to obtain healthy, younger,
smoother, even-toned, firmer-looking, and bump-free skin. This is another
fundamental aspect of skincare we must emphasize. All skin typesand we
mean ALL skin typesneed the same critically important skincare ingredi-
ents to have the best skin possible. These ingredients include antioxidants,
skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing ingredients. Each of these is
mandatory, and we mean imperative, if you are to obtain the best skin of your
life; we explain why in detail later throughout this book.
Balance the needs of your skin type with the needs of your skin concerns.
By skin type, we mean how oily, dry, combination, or sensitive your skin is.
Skin concerns are signs of aging, uneven skin tone, loss of firmness, clogged
pores, blemish-prone skin, redness, and sun damage from not using sunscreen
daily (sunscreen is always part of the picture).
Your skin type determines the texture of the products you use. Whether a
cleanser, toner, exfoliant, moisturizer, sunscreen, or specialty formula for spe-
cific concerns (such as serum, boosters, targeted solutions, or masks), the tex-
ture of the product (rich cream or lotion for dry skin and gel, lotion-gel, fluid,
or liquid for normal to oily skin) will again make all the difference in the world.
So, while everyones skin needs the same fundamental ingredients
antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing ingredients
everyone should NOT be using the same type of texture in their products.
If you have dry skin, using a matte-finish product will make your skin drier;
if you have oily skin, using an emollient moisturizer will make your skin feel
oilier and potentially clog pores. This is a very basic concept, but many com-
panies and women dont realize it.
Know your skincare concerns. Separate from knowing your skin type
(normal, oily, dry, or combination), you need to identify your specific skincare
concerns, such as uneven skin tone, clogged pores, bumps, the appearance of
wrinkles, loss of the feeling of firmness, sun damage from not wearing sun-
screen (and how advanced that damage is), and so on. These concerns will
determine what types of products or additional specialty products you need.

Balancing the basic core skincare products you need for your skin type with
the specialty products you need for your skin concerns are the pieces of the
puzzle you need to put together to create the best skincare routine just for
you.
Layering products is often the best way to take care of your skin. While
it is possible to maintain and achieve great skin with a relatively simple skin-
care routine, thats only true only if you have few or no multifaceted skincare
problems or concerns. If you are not one of those lucky people, than layering
products with beneficial formulations specifically for your concerns is often
the key to obtaining the best results.
Specialty products for advanced skincare concerns, such as complex signs
of aging, more pronounced oily skin, temperamental skin, extremely dry skin,
bump-prone skin, clogged pores, and many other problems, will require a
more advanced skincare routine with solutions that work synergistically with
the other products in your basic core skincare routine.
Sunscreen. By the end of this book you will surely be tired of hearing
this, but nothing is as vital as sun protection. Despite the abundant research
showing how damaging unprotected sun exposure is and how tanning causes
irreparable harm to skin, less than 20% of the population wears sunscreen on
a regular basis and far less know how to apply it correctly or that wearing sun-
screen but still getting a tan is devastating for skin. Thats why we keep repeat-
ing this because so many havent gotten the message that sunscreen and being
sun smart is a cornerstone of getting the best skin of your life now and forever!
CHAPTE R 3
What Every Skin Type Needs
We touched on this topic already, but now well expand a bit on the critical
types of ingredients that all skin types need. This section is short and sweet
because in some ways it is as standard as discussing a healthy diet. Healthy
foods are not a mystery, we know what they are when were shopping at the
grocery store. The same is true for skincare. Scientific studies and the physiol-
ogy of skin make it perfectly clear that healthy skin needs an ample supply of
substances that are natural to skin.
When we are young, our skin makes these substances in abundance, but
over the years, these important substances gradually become depleted, the
result of sun damage from not regularly wearing sunscreen, aging, mid-life
changes, and health issues. As a result our skin is no longer able to resupply
these substances in skin or to hold on to them. Providing your skin with these
necessary substances via your daily skincare routine, twice a day, is what great
skincare is all about.
ANTIOXIDANTS
Skin needs a generous supply of antioxidants. Antioxidants are a group
of ingredients that diminish the impact on skin of the environment, stress,
midlife changes, sun damage due to not wearing sunscreen daily, and myriad
other issues. Anything you can do to slow the impact of these occurrences
is incredibly beneficial, and antioxidants are definitely the foremost group of
ingredients that are fundamental to doing just that.
The best moisturizers (lotions for normal skin, creams for dry skin, and gels
and liquids for oily/combination skin) are formulated with a potent blend of
antioxidants that help provide skin with what it needs to fight off the negative
influences that can impact skin.
Antioxidants must be housed in packaging that ensures they remain effec-

tive, which means they should not be packaged in a jar or in clear packaging
because antioxidants break down in the presence of light and air.
SKIN-REPLENISHING INGREDIENTS
Environmental attack decreases skins ability to resupply and maintain
the substances that are important for skins integrity as it did when we were
younger. When these skin-replenishing ingredients (also referred to some-
times as skin-identical ingredients) are present in abundance they keep skin
supplied with protective ingredients that help maintain moisture balance and
conserve skins all-important ability to renew itself day in and day out.
These ingredients help maintain a resilient supple skin surface that allows
skin to look smooth, soft, enlivened, and luminous. It also helps skin readjust
and become normalized, which is critical for every skin concern imaginable.
There are many skin-replenishing ingredients, including such well-known
substances as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, ceramides, leci-
thin, sodium PCA, and many more. These skin-loving ingredients keep skin
supplied with what it needs to be refreshed and supple, and to looking glow-
ingly revived every day.
SKIN-RESTORING INGREDIENTS
Skin-restoring ingredients can help skin appear more radiant and younger
by boosting skins rejuvenating processes. It really is astounding what these
types of ingredients can do for skin.
Once again those insidious culpritsenvironmental assault, sun damage
from not wearing sunscreen daily, aging, and midlife changeslimit skins
ability to renew itself as it once did. The result is skin that is less hydrated,
less supple, shows more signs of aging and loss of firmness, uneven skin tone,
and loses the ability to take care of itself by keeping surface skin organized and
intact.
Skin-restoring ingredients help skin not only look renewed, but also feel
and appear normal, balanced, and younger in so many ways. This is an excit-
ing area of skincare! The key players in this group are niacinamide, retinol,
multiple peptides, lecithin, and adenosine triphosphate.
CHAPTE R 4
Skin Type vs. Skin Concern
One of the more confusing aspects of developing an effective skincare rou-

tine is finding products that work for your skin type and also address your skin
concerns. Its important to understand exactly what you should be using for
each skin type and skin concern. Heres how it works.
Skin type is the primary feel of your skin: dry, oily, combination (meaning
oily in some areas, dry in others), or normal (meaning neither oily nor combi-
nation nor dry, just normal).
Some people would add temperamental skin as a skin type, but because the
research shows that skin can be reactive to many things, from the environ-
ment to problematic skincare products, and whether or not we feel it, every-
ones skin is sensitive to some degree and must be handled gently. Aside from
sunscreen, being gentle is as fundamental to skincare as it gets.
Before we go any further, its important to explain what we mean by nor-
mal skin type. When you hear normal described as a skin type, you might
envision someone with perfect skinwe certainly think of it that way. From
that perspective, having normal skin would mean your skin is neither too oily
nor too dry, has minimal to no signs of dryness or oily shine, has a smooth
surface with no clogged pores or visible pores, and has an even skin tone with
no visible signs of aging.
The problem with this description of normal skin is that such perfect skin
is rare, and if you do have it when youre young it certainly cant last. Eventu-
ally, someone with normal skin will have to deal with the signs of aging, the
ravages of not protecting skin from the sun 365 days a year, exposure to the
environment, and midlife changes as you move into your 40s.
Skin concerns include clogged pores, uneven skin tone, dullness, break-
outs, signs of aging, rough skin texture, and loss of firmness.
Once youve determined what your skin type is, whether its normal, dry,
oily, or combination, and you know your primary skin concerns, you can then
determine what type of products you need for your basic core skincare rou-
tine. The core products are the primary ones you should be using every day
and they are the same for everyone.
Products for your essential core skincare routine:

Cleanser.
Toner.
Leave-on exfoliant.
Daytime moisturizer with sunscreen.
Nighttime moisturizer.
The next step is to be sure the texture of your core products is appropriate for
your skin type:
Creamy, rich-textured products for dry skin.
Light lotion-textured products for normal skin.
Gel-, fluid-, or watery-textured products for oily/combination skin.
I JUST DONT UNDERSTAND MY SKIN TYPE OR MY

SKIN CONCERNS
Lots of people are confused about their skin type and skin concerns and
we completely understand why. The confusion arises because people often
are actually causing a skin type and/or skin concerns that they would not nor-
mally have.
So many things can affect skin type and skin concerns, from unprotected
sun exposure, diet, smoking, to too much alcohol. But also high up on that list
is using skincare products that aggravate your skin and cause it to react in neg-
ative way. These non-irritating types of products will make skin drier, oilier,
and reddened in areas, increasing the appearance of wrinkles, making it less
firm, rougher, and less radiant, triggering clogged pores, and becoming more
sensitive. Sadly, non-irritating skincare products are not easy to find.
The very skincare products you are using can be a major factor in caus-
ing a skin type and/or skin concern to occur or become worse. In fact, you
may never know your actual skin type or get your skin concerns under control
if you use products that contain ingredients that cause or intensify the very
problems you dont want.
If you use products that contain harsh or skin-aggravating ingredients, are
too emollient or too light for your skin type, arent gentle (think scrubs or dry-
Skin Type vs. Skin Concern 29
ing cleansers or toners with witch hazel or denatured alcohol), or you arent
using a sunscreen with an SPF 30 or greater, whatever you want to be better
about your skin wont happen.
Products with ingredients that aggravate your skin disturb and deplete the
surface, making it drier and weakened, which add up to worsening signs of ag-
ing, skin looking dull and unhealthy, and even triggering bumps and clogged
pores.
Alternatively, if you use overly emollient or thick-textured products and
you have oily skin you will make it feel oilier and have more clogged pores or
bumps. If you use emollient moisturizers along with a drying cleanser you can
create combination skin, oily in some areas and dry in others.
If you dont use a well-formulated, gentle leave-on exfoliant you can have a
build-up of dead surface skin that cant shed in a normal manner, which will
lead to dull skin with a rough uneven texture, skin that feels less supple and
less firm, and worsening of enlarged clogged pores.
If you over-scrub and use drying cleansers, regardless of your skin type you
will impair skins surface, which will make all the problems mentioned above
worse.
Until you get these external factors under control, you will find it difficult
to ever really know your skin type because you may be causing it to be dif-
ferent from what it normally would be, and not in a good way. The kinds of
products you use make all the difference in the world when trying to reach
your goal of having the best skin of your life now.
Once youve ruled out the controllable factors that can affect your skin
type (for example, unprotected sun exposure, smoking, too much alcohol) and
eliminate problematic products (for example, poor formulations, jar packag-
ing, ingredients that arent gentle, or products like scrubs that harm and de-
plete the surface of skin, not using sunscreen) from your routine, youll be able
to more accurately determine your skin type.
HOW TO DETERMINE YOUR SKIN CONCERN(S)

In some ways this is the easiest section of the book because most of us are
painfully aware of what our skin concerns. For example, most of us already
know what fine lines, bumps, clogged enlarged pores, loss of firmness, uneven
skin tone, and signs of aging look like. Thats the easy part.
The most important takeaway about skin concerns is that most people
have multiple skin concerns at the same time. It is not unusual for someone to
have some combination of sensitive skin with red areas, fine lines, sun damage
from not using a sunscreen daily, uneven skin tone, patches of dryness, and
areas that are oily and have clogged pores. This is where skincare can get com-
plicated because once youve identified your skin concerns, then you need to
add the specialty solution products to address them.
Your core skincare routine may be enough to handle many aspects of your
skin concerns, depending on how stubborn or complex they are. You are the
only who can determine how targeted and precise a skincare routine you want
and need.
YOUR ESSENTIAL CORE SKINCARE ROUTINE

This section describes the products you need to build an essential core
skincare routine. Everyone, and we mean everyone, regardless of age or gen-
der, can benefit from following these steps, even teenagers.
The basics are:

Twice a day use a gentle water-soluble cleanser appropriate for your skin
type; more emollient for dry skin, more of a lotion for normal skin, and a gel
or pearlized lotion with a bit of sudsing for oily/combination skin.
If you want to use a cleansing brush, make sure the head is exceptionally
gentle. You can also use a soft wash-cloth. A scrub is an option only if it is not
abrasive and contains only rounded (not jagged) soft particles to provide the
extra cleansing. Non-irritating is the ultimate goal for everyone.
At night, you can start or follow with a makeup remover to be sure youve
removed every last bit of makeup. You never ever want to fall asleep in your
makeup because you can wake up to clogged pores, bumps, sensitive skin, and
puffy eyes.
Next is a toner that, of course, must be completely non-irritating and con-
tain the important ingredients we mentioned before, such as antioxidants,
skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients. For normal to
oily skin, a toner should have a liquid lightweight sheer formula; for dry skin it
should have a milky more emollient feel.
Follow with an AHA or BHA leave-on exfoliant in a formula appropriate
for your skin type. We explain at length in the next chapter why an exfoliant is
needed as a basic part of any skincare routine.
It goes without saying, but we will say it anyway (you know we cant help
ourselves): During the day you must wear a sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater
and you must experiment to find a sunscreen with a texture that makes your
skin happy. For someone with dry skin a creamier formula should be perfect,
for someone with normal skin a lotion formula will be great, and if you have
oily/combination skin, a matte-finish sunscreen would work best.
Skin Type vs. Skin Concern 31
At night you need a moisturizer to feed your skin once again, with healthy
amounts of antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring
ingredients. The texture of your moisturizer must be appropriate for your skin
type. If you have oily/combination skin, a liquid, gel, or thin serum would be
ideal; dry skin would need a rich emollient cream; and normal skin would do
great with a lotion.
LAYERING SKINCARE PRODUCTS

The basic building blocks for taking the best care of your skin are the core
skincare steps mentioned above. For lots of people, thats all it takes to keep
and maintain the best skin of your life.
The next layer of building blocks might need to be added to your skincare
routine if you have more complicated skin concerns or an extreme skin type
(very oily or very dry skin). If thats the case, then additional steps will be cru-
cialthis is where layering targeted solutions becomes imperative.
Depending on your special skin concerns (e.g., breakout-prone, obvious
dullness, clogged pores, advanced sun damage from not wearing sunscreen
daily, redness, uneven skin tone) and/or your special skin type (e.g., extremely
oily, extremely dry, uncomfortable, or difficult combination skin), you may
want to consider adding one or more products that are specially formulated
to address those issues.
Layering involves supplementing your core routine with products, often
referred to as serums, essences, targeted solutions, or boosters, that are for-
mulated to address your specific skincare concerns. You can add these types of
focused products at almost any point in your skincare routine, after cleansing,
toning, and exfoliating. Depending on the type of problems, these solutions
can be used daily, every other day, once a week, or seasonally.
The most important thing to understand is that no single product can do
it all when you have distinct and disparate skin concerns. Its possible that it
may take only one extra product, but that depends entirely on the problems
with which you are dealing.
Layering is not a new concept in skincare, but given the new and advanced
lightweight and highly compatible formulations that can truly make a marked
difference in addressing specific skin concerns, better skin awaits you once
you understand how layering works and what products will produce the best
results.
C HAPTER 5
Which Skincare Products You Need and Which
Ones You Dont
CLEANSERS
No other aspect of skincare is as basic or as important as a cleanser. Cleans-
ing the face sets the stage for almost everything else that will take place on
your skin. A great cleanser removes excess oil, dirt, impurities, and makeup,
leaving skin smooth and fresh without feeling greasy or dry.
If you dont cleanse your skin regularly or if you dont remove all your
makeup, your skin will pay the price, with potential clogged pores, dry patch-
es, puffy eyes, and red areas.
Careful cleansing is essential for every skin type, and its equally critical for
every skin type that the cleansing products be gentle. Over-cleansing or using
cleansers that are too drying are major causes of skin problems, especially dry-
ness, flaky patches, and redness.
On the other hand, using a cleanser that leaves a greasy film on the face or
that doesnt clean well can lead to clogged pores and dull-looking skin, and
prevent moisturizers from being absorbed and doing their job. It is essential to
get this step right, and that means thoroughly, but gently, cleansing your face.
Should you start with a makeup remover? Many people feel their cleans-
ing routine should start with a makeup remover, such as a liquid remover,
makeup wipes, or a cleansing oil. Although this works well for some people
(particularly if you wear a heavy makeup application), they are merely an op-
tion, not a requirement.
Regardless of the type of makeup remover you use, keep in mind that the
action of wiping and pulling at the face, especially around the eyes, is a prob-
lem. Tugging on skin encourages sagging. The less you pull, the better your
skin will hold up in the long run.
As is true for many aspects of skincare, you should experiment to see what
works best for your skin type and your own personal preferencesbut do take
care not to pull or tug on skin, whether you use a makeup remover before or
after cleansing.
What about facial cleansing oils? The term facial cleansing oil is a bit
confusing because the category is not clear-cut. Some facial cleansing oils are
oils in name only; theyre actually more like emollient water-soluble cleans-
ers that are meant to be rinsed off. These can be a great option if you have
normal to very dry skin.
Traditional facial cleansing oils usually are an actual blend of plant oils or a
single plant oil that are massaged onto the face and then wiped off. This is an-
other way to remove makeup and can be followed by a water-soluble cleanser;
for those with extremely dry skin, just wiping the oil away is enough.
There are lots of myths circulating about facial cleansing oils. We prefer
facts to myths, and the fact is that facial cleansing oils are not miracles for
skin, theyre just another option that may or may not be helpful for you de-
pending on your skin type and concerns.
The notion that cleansing oils can somehow unclog pores by some force of
chemistry pulling clogs out of the pore is not supported by any research. We
still dont understand the explanations weve seen for this as they defy science
and physiology.
Keep in mind that many facial cleansing oils also contain fragrant oils,
which present a serious problem for skin. As we will repeatedly state through-
out this book, fragrance, whether natural or synthetic, causes problems for
skin. Non-fragrant plant oils are the only ones you should ever consider put-
ting on your face.
What about bar soap? We wish we could say bar soaps are great for skin
as that would make choosing a cleanser so much easier and less expensive;
regrettably, thats not the case. For many reasons, its best to never use bar soap
on the face, and also helpful to avoid it from the neck down. This is particular-
ly true if you have problems with dry skin or breakouts anywhere on your face
or body, but no matter what your skin type, there are significant issues with
using most bar soaps or bar cleansers.
Many people with combination, or oily skin believe that the tight sensation
they feel after washing with soap means their face is really clean. The thinking
is that the more squeaky-clean their face feels, the better their skin will be, yet
just the opposite is true! The feeling associated with being squeaky-clean is
most likely an indication that skin is being aggravated, dried out, and stressed,
which makes all skin problems worse.
Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont 35
There are specialty soaps with non-soapsounding names. Typically they

contain creams and emollients, appearing from the name to have none of
the drying properties of regular soap, and sound as if they would be good for
dry sensitive skin. Unfortunately, they still present problems similar to the
problems of bar soaps. First, bar cleansers can be somewhat easier on skin,
but theyre still more drying than and not as gentle as, the best water-soluble
cleansers, and gentle as you are learning is vitally important to skin.
How do I choose a gentle cleanser? Generally, liquid or lotion-style cleans-
ers are more gentle than bar cleansers, but thats not always true because not
all liquid and lotion cleansers are created equal. Making things more difficult,
its nearly impossible to choose a cleanser based on its ingredient label because
the technical names of the ingredients are absurdly complicated and there are
hundreds of options a formulator can use. In short, its difficult to answer the
question: How do I choose a cleanser? (Part of me just wants to tell you to use
Paulas Choice Skincare cleansers to be safe, but you probably already know I
feel that way.)
What we can say for certain is that the best cleansers, regardless of skin
type, should never leave your face dry, greasy, or tight. Theres a fine line be-
tween a cleanser that cleans well but doesnt strip vital substances from skins
surface, and this is true for all skin types.
For those with normal to oily skin along with clogged pores or bumps, get-
ting skin really clean is often misunderstood. Overzealous cleansing or want-
ing skin to be squeaky-clean can mean skin is being stripped of its protective
surface, and that type of cleansing worsens oiliness and prolongs a host of
other problems.
Do I need a scrub or a cleansing brush? Scrubs and cleansing brushes are
certainly options as part of your daily cleansing routine. Both can provide ex-
tra cleansing, which can be helpful, but in terms of effective exfoliation scrubs
and brushes offer only superficial manual exfoliation via abrasion and thats a
problem for skin. As a gentle cleansing step they are fine but to evenly, natu-
rally, and imperceptibly shed built-up dead skin they arent the direction you
should turn to.
The way skin exfoliates naturally is beyond what manual exfoliation can
provide. When skin exfoliates naturally it is an undetectable, invisible process.
Skin naturally sheds millions of skin pieces a day but you dont see any of it
and you certainly dont feel it.
Scrubs and cleansing brushes have considerable limitations when com-
pared to the numerous benefits of a completely non-abrasive, leave-on AHA
or BHA exfoliant (more about those in the next sections). Scrubs and cleans-
ing brushes deal only with the very top superficial part of skin, while most of
the unhealthy built-up surface dead skin is beyond the reach of where a scrub
or cleansing brush can extend.
If you want to use a manual scrub, be sure it doesnt contain any abrasive
ingredients, even if they are natural. If using a cleansing device, be sure you
use only the devices sensitive brush-head option. The brushes on such de-
vices should feel very soft and flexible, never stiff or wiry.
You also can simply use a gentle washcloth with your daily cleanser, which
provides skin with a manual cleansing step. As a bonus, washcloths are often
softer (thus more gentle), less expensive, and, of course, they dont contain
pore-clogging ingredients!
TONERS: DO YOU REALLY NEED ONE?

Toners have become a confusing category of skincare products. Because of
misperceptions, you may have read or been told not to use a toner, or that a
toner is just an optional step. Thats disappointing because a well-formulated
toner can provide wonderful benefits for your skin.
Toners are meant to be used after cleansing. They were once recommend-
ed as a way to refresh skins pH balance after using a bar soap or a bar cleanser
because those types of cleansers can raise skins natural pH to a level that isnt
good for your skin. However, given todays gentle, water-soluble cleansers that
has become a non-issue.
What we now know from research is that after cleansing, your skin needs
a range of ingredients to revitalize and renew its surface. A toner can instantly
give skin a generous amount of the important substances weve been men-
tioning in a way that a moisturizer cannot (lotion and cream moisturizers
work differently from liquids). Plus, you really cant give your skin too much
of these important reviving ingredients, which include antioxidants, skin-re-
plenishing, and skin-restoring ingredients.
The right toner can give your skin a healthy measure of what it needs to
look younger, fresher, and smoother, right after cleansing and throughout the
day, as well as provide a bit of extra cleansing just in case you missed some
areas, such as around your hairline or jaw.
Toners for oily skin with clogged pores or bump-prone skin: If you have
oily or breakout-prone skin, you must be especially careful when shopping for
toners. Almost without exception, the toners that claim to be specifically for
these skin types and concerns are a problem. Thats because most toners for
oily, breakout-prone skin contain skin-aggravating ingredients such as alco-
hol, witch hazel, and menthol that impede skins ability to be healthy. Using
the wrong toner on oily, breakout-prone skin can cause skin to be oilier, red-
dened, and often dry and flaky.
The best toners for oily or breakout-prone skin are those with ingredients
that soothe and recharge skins surface, make skin feel smoother, diminish
enlarged pores, and contain antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients to
make sure skin has what it needs to ward off dryness and sensitivity.
For some skin types, especially during summer or in warmer climates, a
well-formulated toner may be the only moisturizer your oily skin needs!
Toners for dry or sensitive skin: Those with dry or sensitive skin typically
shy away from toners because of their astringent, drying reputation; after all,
the last thing dry, sensitive skin needs are harsh ingredients! But, the right
toner for dry or sensitive skin can make a world of difference: Youll see less
redness and less flaking, and your skin will feel soothed and comfortable. The
goal with toners is to quickly replenish skin after cleansing and, while that is
important for all skin types, it is especially important for those with dry or
sensitive skin.
If youre skeptical (and we cant say we blame you) give a well-formulated
toner a trywe know youll be pleasantly surprised with how fast your skin
improves!
Toners for combination skin: If your skin is oily on your forehead, nose,
and chin and dry to normal on your cheeks or jaw area, then you have classic
combination skin. Using the wrong toner on combination skin will exagger-
ate the dry areas and make oily areas worse (this is doubly true if breakouts and
clogged pores are present).
Whats the solution? You need a gentle toner with ingredients that help
normalize your skin, so youll see less dryness and oiliness. With ongoing use
as part of a complete skincare routine, youll also see enlarged pores become
smaller and the surface of skin feel balanced and normalized.
When shopping for toners, its critical that you consider only those that
give your skin to nothing but beneficial ingredientsonly the good and none
of the bad.
WHY LEAVE-ON EXFOLIANTS ARE SO IMPORTANT

If scrubs arent an ideal option for exfoliation, then you might be wonder-
ing what you should be using instead? Without question, almost everyone can
benefit from daily use of a well-formulated leave-on AHA (alpha hydroxy acid,
such as glycolic and lactic acids) or BHA (beta hydroxy acid, also known as
salicylic acid) exfoliant. These exfoliants work far differently from scrubs or
cleansing brushes. A gentle leave-on exfoliant helps shed dead skin when it
cant do it naturally on its own any longer.
This completely non-abrasive form of exfoliation provides multiple ben-
efits, including fighting signs of aging and alleviating uneven skin tone, dull-
ness, and breakouts, so dont let the acid in the name of these amazing ingre-
dients scare you.
Heres how it works. Your skin naturally sheds immense amounts of dead
skin every day, but this shedding process can slow and practically stop due to
sun damage especially advanced sun damage (from years of unprotected sun
exposure), dry skin, oily skin, midlife changes, and various skin concerns. All
of those things can cause a build-up of dead skin on the surface and inside
the pore lining. The not-too-pretty results of this are unmistakable: dull, dry,
or flaky skin; clogged, enlarged pores; bumps; fine lines; loss of firmness; and
uneven skin tone.
Adding a gentle leave-on exfoliant to your skincare routine helps put ev-
erything in balance again. When you gently and imperceptibly get rid of the
build-up of dead skin, you help unclog pores, help smooth out fine lines, and
can even make dry, dull skin a thing of the past!
In fact, AHAs and BHAs actually provide significant hydration for skin,
something you could never achieve with a scrub or cleansing brush. A leave-
on AHA or BHA exfoliant can be the best way to achieve a new healthy glow-
ing radiance, sometimes overnight.
You may be wondering what the difference is between an AHA exfoliant
and a BHA exfoliant. A very good question as this can prove to be a confusing
nuanced difference and thats because when properly formulated, both AHAs
and BHA are brilliant options for exfoliating the surface of skin and can work
for both skin types. Now that does make it confusing as which one you should
choose.
Both AHA and BHA have a lot in common when it comes to improving
hydration, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, renewing skin, and im-
proving loss of firmness. Both also can improve an uneven skin tone and make
skin imperfections less visible. But, each also has unique qualities youll want
to consider when deciding which one to use:
AHAs are preferred for those whose chief concerns are dry skin because
they exfoliate primarily on the surface of skin. They do not cut through oil,
so they are less compatible for those who have oily/combination skin.
BHA is preferred for oily skin, clogged pores, enlarged pores, and bumps
because BHA can cut through the oil thats clogging your pores and there-
fore helps to normalize the pore significantly lessening bumps.
To get the most benefit from your AHA or BHA exfoliant:

Experiment with different strengths of AHAs and BHA to see which con-
centration gives you the best results.
Apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice per day depending on your
skin type and skin concerns. Again experimenting is the best way to deter-
mine how often using it works best for you.
Both types of exfoliant can be used around the eye area, but not on the
eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line).
Apply the AHA or BHA product on your face after cleansing and after
youve applied your toner.
Once the AHA or BHA product has been absorbed, you can apply any other
product in your routine, such as moisturizer, serum, eye cream, sunscreen,
and/or foundation.
WHY YOU SHOULD USE A SERUM

While its true that every product in your routine should contain a
skin-helpful array of antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-
restoring ingredients, the best serums should have more advanced concen-
trated formulations.
Depending on your specific skincare concerns you may need higher
amounts of these valuable skincare ingredients with anti-aging and skin-
restoring benefits. We wish these concentrated quantities could all fit in your
nighttime moisturizer or daytime moisturizer with SPF, but there simply isnt
room for the extra amounts of these strategic skincare ingredients.
Serums shouldnt contain the sunscreen active ingredients that a daytime
moisturizer does or the emollients or light-texture enhancing ingredients of
your nighttime moisturizer. Instead, serums use that extra space to pack in
other beneficial ingredients, such as more antioxidants and/or skin-restoring
ingredients than other products in your routine have.
A serum does not replace your daytime moisturizer with SPF or your night-
time moisturizer (though for some skin types like oily skin a serum instead
of your moisturizer can be best), but they will improve your overall anti-
aging results and overall skin health when used once or twice a day under your
moisturizer or under your moisturizing sunscreen.
Exception: If you have oily skin a well-formulated weightless-feeling serum
can work as a double-duty product that replaces a nighttime moisturizer. The
serum can be the only moisturizer your skin needs at night!
Finding a good serum is akin to starting a long-term relationshipthe real
benefits come from sticking with your serum day in and day out. While youll
likely see some improvements right away (because the antioxidant-rich for-
mula soothes, calms, and brightens skin), over the long term youll begin to
see other signs of aging diminish and your skin will look and feel healthier
and firmer!
Theres no single best serum, so choose your serum based on your skin
type and concerns. No matter how well-formulated a serum is, if it isnt com-
patible with your skin type, youll end up disliking the results, and you wont
stick with it. For example, if you have oily or combination skin, look for a
water-light serum that doesnt feel heavy or greasy. Alternatively, if you have
dry skin, youll likely love a serum packed with antioxidant-rich moisturizing
plant oils! If your skin is not oily, combination, or dry, choose a serum based
on personal preference, and dont be afraid to experiment.
WHY YOU SHOULD CONSIDER USING A BOOSTER

Even if you have a great skincare routine that includes the most important
products like cleanser, toner, exfoliant, daytime moisturizer with SPF, serum,
and a nighttime moisturizer, your skin may still need extra help to handle
your specific advanced concerns to obtain the best results possible results no
matter your skin type. Thats where boosters can help!
Boosters generally focus on a high potent concentration of one ingredient
or a blend of a specific category of ingredient to give your skin a generous sup-
ply of what these unique skin-transforming superstars can do for skin. This
doesnt mean one ingredient is ever enough for skin but there are certain in-
gredients that when applied in higher concentrations do provide unique ben-
efits.
For Paulas Choice Skincare weve developed five boosters: RESIST 10%
Niacinamide Booster, RESIST C15 Super Booster, RESIST Moisture Renewal
Oil Booster, RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster, and RESIST 1% Retinol Booster,
and well talk about these more later. And just like for a serum theres no single
best one you need to choose the one best for your skin concern. Keeping a
long-term relationship with these precious ingredients is where the real ben-
efits are achieved. Every day you have to help your skin do what it cant do any
longer on its own and thats where boosters can step into help.
A MOISTURIZER BY ANY OTHER NAME

Moisturizer. Wrinkle cream. Firming essence. Anti-aging cream. Whatever
the product is called (and the variations are endless), a moisturizer is supposed
to improve skins softness, smoothness, and ability to hold onto the vital sub-
stances it needs to look and feel younger. Some moisturizers are brilliant at
this, but a surprising number of them fall short, and that applies to a lot of the
more expensive options.
Even though the standard term for this skincare step is moisturizer, its
not really about giving skin moisture (meaning water), and it isnt just about
applying a lotion or cream. Moreover, and this may really stun you, not every-
one needs a moisturizer. What everyone needs twice a day is to give their
skin ample amounts of antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-
replenishing ingredients.
As weve said repeatedly, these types of ingredients are essential to achiev-
ing and maintaining the skin you want by giving it the substances it needs to
renew, rejuvenate, and stay hydrated and healthy every day. Regardless of the
product name or texture, choosing a product loaded with these elements is
vital for making skin look as young and healthy as possible.
If a moisturizer is well-formulated and includes an array of those key in-
gredients, the only thing you need to think about is the texture. If they are
well-formulated, the only thing that differentiates moisturizers and anti-
wrinkle or similar products from one another is their texture.
If you have dry to very dry skin, you need a moisturizer that has a creamy
texture; if you have normal to dry skin, a lotion formula will work well. If you
have normal to slightly dry skin or combination skin, a lightweight lotion or
thin fluid is your best choice. If you have oily skin and clogged pores, a gel, flu-
id, or liquid moisturizer is the absolute best option. And all of these should
be packed to the brim with the essential skincare ingredients everyone needs.
If you are using a serum, apply it before you apply the moisturizer. During
the day, apply the serum and then apply your moisturizing sunscreen.
MOISTURIZERS WITH SPF: THE CORNERSTONE!

Its okay to be obsessive about some things, like eating healthy, brushing
your teeth, driving safely, and using sunscreen 365 days a year rain or shine.
That last item, daily application of a moisturizer with sunscreen, is mandatory
if youre ever going to have the best skin of your life.
Your dedication to applying sunscreen every day means youll have the last
laugh when it comes to laugh lines and other signs we associate with aging,
which are overwhelmingly about unprotected sun exposure.
Without a doubt, sunscreen is the #1 anti-aging skincare product you can
use. Unprotected exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light is the #1 cause of virtually
every sign of aging. We refer to sunscreen as the cornerstone of a skincare
routine because without it, nothing else you do to improve the youthfulness,
health and appearance of your skin will have enduring impact. UV exposure
without protection literally destroys skin, slowly and surely.
No matter what youve been told the fact is the only real difference be-
tween a nighttime moisturizer and a daytime moisturizer is sunscreen but all
the other elements weve been talking about still apply. Aside from having an
SPF 30 or greater your daytime moisturizer still must contain the same array
of beneficial ingredients as your nighttime moisturizer. And, as we said, there
is no research showing that skin needs different ingredients during the night
versus during the day, so whatever youve heard to the contrary is not backed
up by science.
The texture issue also applies for your daytime moisturizer with sunscreen
as well. If you have dry skin, an emollient cream moisturizer with SPF works
best. If you have a more normal skin type, a light lotion texture is perfect. If
you have normal to oily combination skin, a very light fluid moisturizer with
SPF with a soft matte finish is ideal.
PACKAGING MATTERS!
Packaging is important, and were going to repeat it frequently because
it bears repeating: Do not use any moisturizer, serum, booster, essence, or
any skincare product containing beneficial ingredients that comes packaged
in a jar!
No matter how great a products formula is, jar packaging is always a deal
breaker if the product contains air sensitive ingredients and as it turns out
most every antioxidant and skin-restoring ingredient that exists, doesnt
like air. Jar packaging exposes these potent beneficial, but inherently unsta-
ble, ingredients to light and air, causing them to break down and lose their
effectiveness.
Given the number and variety of products available today that come in
air-reducing or airless packaging, why waste your money on products whose
most beneficial ingredients will be less effective shortly after the first use?
EYE CREAMS
An eye cream is certainly an option if its a well-formulated product con-
taining ingredients that are helpful for skin around the eyes and if it does not
contain problematic ingredients. We know that sounds like a really basic idea,
a no-brainer, so to speak, but there are lots of eye creams that contain ingre-
dients that are not suitable for skin, whether around the eye area or anywhere
else on the face.
For example, a serious concern about eye creams is that most of them do
not contain sun protection, which would make them pro-aging, not anti-ag-
ing (at least if you arent wearing them under a sunscreen). Unprotected sun
exposure is a major cause of so many skincare woes theyre almost too long
to list. Dont let your eye-area skin fall prey to the suns assault, it needs sun
protection just as much as rest of your face.
Speaking of sunscreens for the eye area, we strongly recommend using only
mineral-based sunscreen formulas around the eye area. In this case, mineral
means that they contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the only active
ingredients. Both of these active ingredients are exceptionally gentle, which
is very important for the eye area. Its not that synthetic sunscreen ingredi-
ents arent effective, because they are, its just that they arent as gentle and
non-irritating as mineral-based sunscreen ingredients. This is true whether a
product is labeled eye cream or not.
All of the marketing hype about how eye creams are specially formulated
for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or that they get rid of puffy eyes,
dark circles, and lift or tighten sagging skin, is often not true. There are a few
ingredients that can be considered special for the eye area, but, for the most
part, the same essential ingredients that benefit facial skin also benefit eye-ar-
ea skin. Its absolutely okay to use a great facial moisturizer around the eye
area, which is why we often say that not everyone needs an eye cream (or
eye gel or eye serum).
The only reason you would not use your well-formulated facial moisturizer
around the eye area is if the skin around your eyes is different from the skin
on your face. For example, if the skin around your eyes is drier than the skin
on your face, youll need to use a more emollient moisturizer around the eyes.
This also might be true if your skin is oily. In this case, the gel or liquid
moisturizing formula that works great on the oily or combination skin on
your face would probably not be moisturizing enough for the eye area. But
again, it doesnt have to be labeled eye cream. If it makes you feel better to
use a special product for the eye area, thats fine; as long as its a great product,
we couldnt be happier.
CAN YOU GET RID OF PUFFY EYES?

Puffy eyes are a common problem, whether they go away as the morning
wears on or seem to never go away. The cosmetics industry knows this, which
is why nearly every skincare company sells products claiming to get rid of
puffy eyes. So how come you still have puffy eyes?
The answer is that even the most brilliantly formulated eye creams, gels,
or serums can do only so much to improve puffy eyes. That doesnt mean you
wont get some benefit, its just that you probably wont reap the benefits to
the degree you were hoping for. As always, we approach problems like this
with research and facts so you have the information you need to get as close
as realistically possible to minimize the appearance of puffy eyes. Heres what
you need to know and do.
1. Sleep Position: Keeping your head flat while you sleep allows fluid to
collect in the skin around your eyes. Sleeping with your head slightly elevated
(making sure your neck is properly supported) can help limit fluid retention
around the eye area. Gentle fingertip massage around the eye area when you
wake up can help with this kind of swelling.
2. Diet: Alcohol consumption and a diet high in salt leads to water reten-
tion and increased puffiness around the eyes, which can linger throughout the
day. Moderate or limited intake of alcohol, sodium, and processed foods can
be incredibly helpful as can adding antioxidant-rich foods to your diet (e.g.,
fruits, vegetables, salmon); and stay hydrated. All of these can make a HUGE
difference!
3. Contact Lenses: Even under the best of circumstances, contact lenses
can cause your eyes to look tired and puffy. Ensure you are wearing the most
comfortable type of contacts for your vision correction. Follow your eye-care
providers exact recommendations for cleansing, wear, and disposal. Keeping
your eyes lubricated with the appropriate eye drops also is helpful.
4. Allergies: Exposure to allergens, either in the air or by rubbing your eyes
with allergen-laced fingers (touching plants or animals youre allergic to and
then touching your eyes transfer the allergen) can contribute to perpetual
puffiness. Its best to avoid touching your eyes, because rubbing not only pulls
at skin (which encourages loose skin), but also may make puffiness worse.
Also, you might talk to your physician about taking an antihistamine or using
anti-allergy eye drops to control your allergy symptoms, such as runny, itchy
eyes. Applying a cool (but not ice-cold) compress to your eyes also can help.
5. Dry Skin: Dryness around your eyes can cause sensitivity and a heavy
crepey appearance that exacerbates puffy eyes and also makes them look less
taut, lined and tired. An eye cream with skin-replenishing ingredients and
antioxidants will keep skin remarkably hydrated, softened, and smoothed. It
can make a world of difference and often makes an improvement thats visible
immediately.
6. Makeup Residue: Makeup, when left on overnight, or even a bit too long,
can aggravate skin, a sure way to cause puffy eyes! Be sure to meticulously re-
move your makeup every night. Start with a mild, fragrance-free cleanser, and
then remove the last traces of eye makeup (including mascara) with a gentle,
fragrance-free eye makeup remover (one thats also colorant-free is best for
the eye area). Remember: Do not rub or pull the skin around your eyes when
removing your makeup.
7. Exposure to Harsh Ingredients: Ingredients like menthol, camphor, al-
cohol, essential oils, fragrant plant extracts, or any kind of fragrance (natural
or synthetic) shouldnt come anywhere close to your eyes. If your makeup or
skincare products contain such ingredients, it can either cause eyes to be puffy
or make the situation worse. Stop using the product and switch to a non-irri-
tating alternative.
8. Sun Protection: You cant avoid the litany of problems unprotected sun
exposure causes for the eye area (not only for skin but also for the eye itself
just ask your ophthalmologist). UV light from the sun is your skins nemesis, so
dont let it get the upper hand. An eye cream or well-formulated moisturizer
with SPF 30 or greater is critical for combating every aspect of your eyes look-
ing older and getting puffiness under control. Sunscreen is the one product
that can reduce the risk of early signs of aging and keep them from getting
worse.
9. Sunglasses: Wearing sunglasses is important for many aspects of hav-
ing healthy eyes. In terms of keeping the skin around your eyes beautiful and
young, wearing sunglasses daily is one of our favorite anti-aging solutions for
eyes, including diminishing puffy eyes.
While the above guidelines for de-puffing your eyes is fundamental to get-
ting results it is important to realize where they wont be of help and thats
when your puffy eyes are a result of the fat pads around your eyes being pro-
nounced and noticeable through skin.
For some people, puffy eyes may just be their natural appearance, based
on traits they got from their parents. If you have excess fat pads under the
eye, skincare cant address that problembelieve us, we wish it could. If this
is your problem, the only way to deal with it is with help from a cosmetic der-
matologist or surgeon. Thats the call you would have to make, or otherwise,
you will just keep wasting your money on products that are incapable of ad-
dressing this issue.
While the solutions above may not be as dramatic as you had hoped (we
get it, we wish eye creams could magically get rid of all puffiness just as much
as you do), youre now armed with the truth and wont have to waste another
dime on products that dont actually work. And, for some of you, honing in on
the right cause and the right eye creams may be the perfect combination to
make all the difference.
WHAT ABOUT DARK CIRCLES UNDER THE EYE?

Shadows and dark circles under the eye are caused by several factors, and
each must be dealt with differently. Unfortunately, there arent any skincare
products in the world that can tackle all or even most of the causes of the dark
to black-ish circles under the eye area. Thats why product after product youve
used in hopes they would eliminate these kinds of circles havent made the
difference they promised.
There are definitely things you can do to improve shadowy circles, but you
wont find your solution in a specialty product whose label espouses miracu-
lous claims or a miracle ingredient. Below, youll find a hype-free guide to the
causes and solutions for this common cosmetic problem. Numerous factors
can cause or worsen circles, including:
Sun damage from not wearing sunglasses or sunscreen 365 days a year.
Blueish color looking more like deep shadows coming through thin skin
around the eye area.
Use of skin-aggravating ingredients around the eye area.
Allergies.
Naturally having deeper skin color around or under the eye area.
Natural shadows resulting from deep-set eyes or sagging skin.
Built-up dead skin that doesnt shed naturally causing a thicker less hydrat-
ed dull appearance.
Although the solutions we recommend below are worth exploring, keep in

mind that for some people, getting rid of dark circles entirely just isnt possible.
Thats where a great concealer and highlighter come into play, along with the
incremental improvements youll notice from taking good care of your skin.
Use a moisturizer with sunscreen of SPF 30 or greater under the eye area
every day.
Use a sunscreen around the eye area that contains only zinc oxide and/or
titanium dioxide as the active ingredients. These two sunscreen ingredi-
ents are the most non-irritating and so best for the eye area.
Always wear sunglasses outdoors.
Consider using an antihistamine. If you have allergies, they can be a major
cause of tired circles and puffy eyes. Talk to your doctor about over-the-
counter and prescription options.
Use a more emollient moisturizer at night to keep skin super hydrated

and softened.
Consider twice-daily use of a well-formulated brightening product,
which we will explain in more detail later in this book.
Find a great concealer. A concealer with a matte finish (rather than one
thats creamy or greasy) is best because they tend to last longer than those
with other finishes and they dont tend to crease. The color of the concealer
must be light enough to cover the circles convincingly, but not so light that
it gives the appearance of a white mask around the eyes. After the con-
cealer, dab on a sheer layer of liquid highlighter to reflect light away from
naturally shadowed areas.
TARGETED SOLUTIONS OR BOOSTERS FOR

SPECIFIC CONCERNS
At some point, most peoples skin will need one or more products we re-
fer to as targeted solutions or boosters. As the names state, these specialized
products target specific skin concerns or boost certain needs of skin for fine
lines, stubborn bumps, redness, advanced signs of aging, extreme dryness, en-
larged pores, and so on.
For example, those who struggle with acne will likely benefit from products
targeted to combat acne that contain benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Those
with an uneven skin tone will likely benefit from a targeted solution or boost-
er that contains ingredients like hydroquinone, niacinamide, or high concen-
trations of vitamin C. Very dry skin can benefit from targeted solutions or
boosters that are a blend of facial oils, used alone or mixed with a moisturizer.
If youre using multiple products to address multiple concerns over the
same area, which one you apply first comes down to texture (go from thin
to thick) and personal preference. The good news is you dont need to worry
about the ingredients in the different products interfering with one another;
almost without exception, you can layer such products or use them as needed,
morning and/or evening, depending on your concerns.
CHAPTE R 6
How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine
SKINCARE ROUTINES THAT PROVIDE RESULTS

We promised to help you get the best skin of your life in this books title,
and heres the basic secret when all is said and done: The only way to have
beautiful skinand keep it that wayis to start (and never stray from) using a
state-of-the-art skincare routine based on what the scientific research shows
works for your skin! Theres really no other way to finally have the skin youve
always wanted without this. Focusing on fictional marketing about a new mir-
acle ingredient or miracle product will not help your skin and will waste your
money time after time.
If youve been at this best product search for a while, youve got to be tired
of that crazy merry-go-round, right? We got to that pointits what inspired
us and still inspires us to find out what works and what doesnt and why!
With a wiser outlook in mind, the next step is to understand what kinds of
products work together, how they benefit your skin, and the order in which to
use them. The information we present in the table that follows is a relatively
easy-to-follow guideline to help you put together your own skincare routine
or to custom-select products based on what works best for you and your spe-
cific skin concerns, step by step. Skin care needs to be customized for you spe-
cific skin type and skin concerns.
We explain the purpose of each type of product, why you need it, and what
results you can expect, whether you prefer a basic or more advanced routine.
Keep in mind that if you have multiple skincare concerns, you may need to
add more than one targeted solution or booster product.
Just as a reminder as you ponder our plan of action, we wish we could tell
you theres one skincare product that can do it all, but it just isnt possible. Ad-
dressing a variety of skincare concerns requires more than one bottle or tube
(of course never a jar) could provide, regardless of the products claims or cost.
A note on targeted solutions and boosters: You may be able to merely add
one targeted solution or booster to your daily routine, or you might need to
alternate its use with other targeted solution or booster products. If your skin-
care needs are complex and, therefore, involve several products, you might
need to experiment to discover what frequency of application works best for
you.
Now lets go over the products and the steps you need to get started!
THE PRODUCTS YOU NEED AND WHY
STEP 1: CLEANSER
What is this for? A gentle, water-soluble, soap-free cleanser removes de-
bris, oil, impurities, and makeup.
Why do I need this? Rinsing with water is not enough to clean your face.
When your face is clean, it allows the other products you use to work even
better, morning and evening.
What results will I see? Using a well-formulated cleanser, your skin will
look and act healthier, feel smoother, and be ready to receive maximum bene-
fits from your other products.
STEP 2: TONER
What is this for? A well-formulated toner smooths, softens, and calms skin,
while removing the last traces of makeup. It also adds vital skin-replenishing
ingredients after cleansing.
Why do I need this? Toners with skin-replenishing ingredients hydrate
and nourish skins surface immediately after cleansing. They also help mini-
mize redness and dry patches.
What results will I see? A well-formulated toner will make your skin feel
softer and look smoother and will lessen redness. Daily use will give your skin
what it needs to perform in a younger, healthier way.
STEP 3: AHA OR BHA EXFOLIANT

What is this for? A leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant gently and impercep-
tibly removes built-up dead skin, revealing new skin that was hiding below.
AHAs exfoliate the surface of skin and cant easily get through surface oil so
they are best for dry skin; BHA can get through oil and therefore get to the
surface of skin for those with oily skin providing exfoliation. And because
How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine 51
BHA can get through oil it can also exfoliate inside the pores and it can di-
minish redness. Both AHA and BHA are very effective at maintaining skins
hydration!
Why do I need this? For many reasons the skins surface loses its ability to
shed skin as it did when we were young, causing it to become thick and dull.
Oily or combination skin complicates this further. Exfoliating with a gentle,
non-abrasive, leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant helps skin shed the way it did
when we were young by naturally sloughing the build-up of dead skin.
What results will I see? Overnight your skin can look radiant, smoother,
and younger (really)! Daily exfoliation with a well-formulated AHA or BHA
exfoliant will soften rough skin, unclog pores, lessen redness, diminish the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve an uneven skin tone.
STEP 4: ACNE PRODUCT (if needed)

What is this for? After exfoliating with an AHA or BHA exfoliant and then
following with an acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide substantially de-
creases blemishes.
Why do I need this? When acne is your concern, research shows that top-
ically applying a product with benzoyl peroxide is an essential step for achiev-
ing clear skin.
What results will I see? With consistent use of a well-formulated, non-
drying acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide, youll see fewer breakouts and a
reduction in large, red, swollen blemishes. Your acne will be minimized, pos-
sibly eliminated.
OPTIONAL: SKIN BRIGHTENER AND/OR SKIN LIGHTENER

(applied before your nighttime or daytime moisturizer)
What is this for? Used at least once daily, skin brighteners or skin lighten-
ers gradually lessen an uneven, dull, mottled skin tone.
Why do I need this? To help enliven and improve an uneven skin tone,
diminish a mottled appearance, and revitalize and potentially eliminate dull-
ness.
What results will I see? After 812 weeks of daily use, your skin tone will
be more even and radiant. Ongoing use is needed to maintain results and you
must absolutely use a sunscreen SPF 30 or greater 365 days a year.
OPTIONAL: SERUM (applied before your nighttime or daytime

moisturizer)
What is this for? Applied morning and evening, serums filled with concen-
trated amounts of antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replen-
ishing ingredients protect skin from environmental damage, including sun
damage (when used with a sunscreen) and pollution.
Why do I need this? Well-formulated serums with concentrated amounts
of skin-enhancing ingredients effectively fight multiple signs of aging.
What results will I see? Immediately, your skin will feel smoother and look
radiant. Twice-daily use will lessen signs of aging and your skin will look and
feel healthier, firmer, and younger.
OPTIONAL: TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND/OR BOOSTERS

(applied before your daytime or nighttime moisturizer)
What are these for? Targeted solutions and boosters are extras you can
add, depending on your personal skincare concerns such as extra hydration,
extra skin smoothing for dryness, extra skin-restoring ingredients, and extra
skin brightening ingredients.
Why do I need these? These products may be needed as an extra step to
optimally hydrate skin, absorb excess oil, minimize redness, enhance the ap-
pearance of plumper skin, smooth out very rough or dry skin, or even out skin
tone.
What results will I see? Results depend on the targeted solution or booster
you choose.
LAST STEP DURING THE DAY: ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER

WITH SPF SUNSCREEN
What is this for? This essential morning last step in your skin care routine
helps protect your skin from sun damage. The sunscreen must have an SPF 30
or higher rating, and offer broad-spectrum protection.
Why do I need this? Moisturizers with SPF ingredients reduce the risk of
early signs of aging and the risk of skin cancer. They also need to be formulat-
ed with ingredients that resupply skin with the substances it always which are
antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients.
What results will I see? Protecting your skin from further sun damage al-
lows it to remain younger like no other skincare product can. This is the criti-
cal step to having radiant skin with far less signs of aging. And the good news
it is never too late to start!
LAST STEP AT NIGHT: ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER

What is this for? All skin types will benefit from a well-formulated mois-
turizer that contains the types of ingredients research has shown help skin
look healthier and younger.
Why do I need this? Used every night moisturizers (cream, lotion, gel, or
liquid texture, based on your skin type) improve everything about your skin,
including hydration, diminished appearance of wrinkles, softness, radiance,
less redness, and smoothness. If your nighttime moisturizer is an emollient
cream, you can also use it around the eye area.
What results will I see? When you use the right moisturizer for your skin
type, youll see smoother, more radiant skin thats hydrated and healthier. Dry,
dull, or flaky skin will be replaced by skin that looks and feels more resilient
and supple!
EXAMPLES OF A.M. AND P.M. SKINCARE ROUTINES

Depending on your needs, your skincare routine can include only the core
basics (what we call the Essential routine) or can be more complex (what we
refer to as an Advanced routine).
The following step-by-step Essential routines (for morning and evening)
cover the types of products everyone should use and the order in which to use
them every day. These steps apply regardless of your skin type, whether oily,
dry, normal, or combination.
The textures of each type of product will vary based on your skin type (lo-
tion for normal skin, cream for dry skin, gel or liquid for oily skin) and person-
al preferences, but the fundamentals and the order of application remain the
same.
PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE ESSENTIAL ROUTINE:

MORNING
Cleanser.
AHA or BHA exfoliant.
Daytime moisturizer with SPF 30 or greater (can also be your eye cream).
PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE ESSENTIAL ROUTINE:

EVENING
Cleanser.
Nighttime moisturizer (can also be your eye cream).
If you have multiple concerns, an Advanced routine is the best way to go.
Such routines include targeted solutions and boosters you can add to your
Essential routine to resolve your specific skincare concerns.
PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE ADVANCED ROUTINE:

MORNING
Cleanser.
Toner.
Serum.
Targeted solutions or boosters.
Eye cream (with SPF or apply your facial SPF over it).
Moisturizer with sunscreen.
PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE ADVANCED ROUTINE:

EVENING
Cleanser.
Toner.
Serum.
Targeted solutions or booster as needed applied before your serum.
Eye cream.
Moisturizer.
DO THE NECK AND CHEST NEED SPECIAL

PRODUCTS?
Fine lines, crepey skin, and uneven skin tone show up sooner on areas that
havent been shielded from the sun over the years. This is especially true for
the neck and chest because we tend to neglect those areas and forget they
need sunscreen, too, leaving them exposed to the sun and the damage it caus-
es. Thats why, for women, skincare really needs to start from your chest up,
and it doesnt take products labeled as being for the neck or chest.
There is no research showing that the neck and chest areas require ingredi-
ents that are different from those the face needs. In other words, the products
you use on your face can and, in fact, should be used on your neck and chest!
If anything, research makes it absolutely clear that what it takes to keep skin
anywhere on your body looking and feeling young requires the same brilliant
ingredients that you use on your face. That means gentle cleansing those areas
and using products loaded with antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and
skin-replenishing ingredients, along with dedicated use of a well-formulated

broad-spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 or greater. That is what skin on your face
needs and your neck, chest, and dcolletage.
CHAPTE R 7
Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered
SUN DAMAGE IS NEVER PRETTY

Sun protection is so important it merits its own chapter and us repeating as
often as we can: Daily exposure to daylight (that comes through clouds, rain,
and windows) without protection, even for a minute, is the one of the worst
things you can do to your skin. Research has made it clear that repeated, un-
protected sun exposure, getting sunburned, or repeatedly getting tan causes
irreparable damage that over the years, in the absence of sun protection and
sun-smart behavior, can wreak havoc on your skin.
Years of unprotected sun exposure or, worse, getting a tan (even though
youve applied sunscreenan incredibly typical misunderstanding of sun
damage), either from the sun or a tanning bed, puts your skin on the fast track
to aging and the risk of skin cancer. For signs of aging youll see fine lines, sag-
ging, uneven skin tone, texture changes, dullness, and large pores far sooner
than those who are diligent about protecting their skin from daylight.
Sun damage to skin, even on cloudy or overcast days. In other words, sun
damage isnt only a threat when the sun is shining; its a threat whenever and
wherever you see daylight. And the damage starts happening the first minute
your unprotected skin sees daylight! That research shocked even us.
Protecting skin every day of the year, rain, snow, or shine, is critical if your
goal is to have healthy, young-looking skin for as long as possible.
The problem is that the topic of sunscreens and all the details surrounding
their use has become a confusing mess of incomplete or misleading informa-
tionwhich is what this chapter aims to sort out!
HOW AND WHEN YOU APPLY SUNSCREEN IS

IMPORTANT!
Using a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen and knowing how to apply it
is a complicated, confusing, and controversial issue, and we certainly under-
stand if youre wondering what to do. This is especially true about the rec-
ommendation to reapply sunscreen every two hoursno matter what! That
seems ridiculously inconvenient, to say the least. If youre wearing makeup,
are you supposed to wash it all off, reapply sunscreen, and then redo your
makeup every two hours throughout the day? Who has time for all that?! We
straighten that out below.
Theres no question that wearing sunscreen daily, 365 days a year, reduces
the risk of early signs of aging and skin cancer. Whether you decide to be sun
smart is up to you; we know lots of you still feel that a summer or vacation tan
is a must or that getting just a little tan is fine, but, please, at least consider
the information below because, and were not exaggerating, your skins life
depends on it.
The following information will help you make sense of sunscreen, so you
can get the best protection from the suns harmful rays:
SPF, which stands for Sun Protection Factor, is an indicator of the length
of time that your skin can be exposed to sunlight without turning pink
(meaning your skin will start burning) when wearing an SPF-rated product.
Although using a product rated SPF 15 is acceptable, the latest research
suggests that higher SPF ratings are far more desirable because they pro-
vide longer protection. Look for sunscreens rated SPF 30 or greater.
The two types of UV rays that damage skin are UVA and UVB. UVA rays
can be more impactful because theyre present all day long and get through
windows. UVB rays are present with visible sunlight and can cause sun-
burn, while UVA rays promote tanning. UVB rays are strongest in sunny
climates between the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. UVA rays maintain
a consistent intensity during daylight hours throughout the entire year.
You must apply sunscreen liberally to obtain the benefit of the SPF num-
ber on the label. Unfortunately, most people dont apply sunscreen liberally
and that is detrimental to their skin. This common mistake might lead you
to believe that the sunscreen you applied isnt effective.
You must apply sunscreen before you leave the house. Do not wait to apply
it when you get to your destination. That is a huge skincare mistake. A lot
of damage can take place from the time you leave your house until you get
to where youre going.
Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered 59
Does the sunscreen you apply in the morning still work in the late after-
noon, following a day at the office or at school? The answer is yes, it still works,
but its effectiveness depends on how much time you spend outdoors because
the sunscreens active ingredients break down in response to direct exposure
to daylight, not in response to the passage of time during a single day.
On an average day (if youre in an office or otherwise indoors), your morn-
ing application of sunscreen is still going to provide sufficient UV protection
on your way home, assuming you applied a liberal amount of an SPF 30 (or
greater) product in the morning.
If you spend the majority of your day outdoors, then the recommendation
is to reapply every two hours, especially if youre perspiring or swimming. The
recommendation to reapply every two hours is based on the following:
Most people dont apply sunscreen liberally enough, and if you dont you
wont be getting the SPF protection rating shown on the label. If you do not
apply sunscreen liberally, then the apply-every-two-hours guideline makes
sense, however impractical it may seem. The thinking goes like this: If you
arent good about applying sunscreen liberally, then reapplying every two
hours after direct daylight exposure will add up to liberal application be-
cause of the extra layers of sunscreen youre putting on.
How much to apply: There are many measurements given to help you
figure out how much sunscreen to use, but, in reality, how much to use
depends completely on the area youre covering. What we suggest is to
smooth a layer of sunscreen over skin that will be exposed to the sun so you
can see it, and then gently massage it into skin and let it be absorbed. And,
yes, we understand that it may feel a bit unpleasant until its absorbed, but
the protection it affords is worth this temporary feeling. Dont forget your
chest, arms, and hands (or any other areas of exposed skin)!
How often to apply: We know this is repetitious, but were on a mission to
ensure the best skin of your life starts now, and this is the first rule to ensure
that happens. Aside from everyday use (no exceptions), a single application
each morning of a product rated SPF 30 or greater will keep you protected
for a normal workday (indoors), a walk to lunch, and the drive home. If you
spend more than three or four hours in direct sunlight during the day, its
a good idea to reapply your sunscreenand, yes, that means redoing your
makeup, which is why we advise touching up with a pressed powder rated
SPF 15 or greater. (Please dont shoot the messenger, were just giving you
the factsbut mostly what we want you to do is wear sunscreen, just that
step alone is better than nothing at all.)
If youre sweating (think outdoor exercise or what can happen on a really

humid day) or if you wash or sanitize your hands, swim, or get wet, you
must reapply your sunscreen regardless of the SPF number on the product.
If the sunscreen is labeled very water resistant, you get about 80 minutes
of protection while perspiring or swimming. If the label states water-resis-
tant, you get only about 40 minutes of protection if you get wet. But dont
forget, even if you use those types of sunscreens, youll be rubbing them off
when toweling dry, so in that scenario, be sure to reapply.
Getting any amount of a tan (except from a self-tanner) is damaging to
skin. Skin turning any shade of brown even though youre wearing a sun-
screen is still dangerous for your skin. Putting sunscreen on, even a sun-
screen with a very high SPF and then basking in the sun to develop a tan is
the absolute opposite of being sun smart. Despite how healthy some peo-
ple think getting a tan may look, tanning even a little is a damage response
and a very bad thing for skin.
Its also critical to understand that being inside doesnt mean your skin
is protected from sun exposure. If youre sitting next to a window, you wont
get sunburned because almost all windows protect you from UVB rays, the
rays that cause sunburn. However, unless the window has special UVA shield-
ing, your skin will NOT be protected from the suns UVA rays because these
rays absolutely get through windows. This is one factor you must take into
consideration when deciding when and how often to reapply your sunscreen.
Staying indoors during the day does not protect your skin if you are going to
be near windows.
When should you apply sunscreen? Every day, as the last step in your skin-
care routine before you apply your makeup. The vast majority of medical ex-
perts and skin researchers agree: Sunscreen is always, always, the final step in
your skincare routine. Any skincare product applied over a sunscreen dilutes
the sunscreen, lessening its effectiveness to some degree.
Do you need moisturizer AND sunscreen during the day? Typically, no.
Thats because the best daytime moisturizers that contain sunscreen are for-
mulated with additional skin-beneficial ingredients so your skin is covered for
all aspects of skincare.
Does sunscreen cause cancer? No, and theres no research proving other-
wise. Were shocked how some people overlook the huge amount of research
showing that regular use of sunscreen actually reduces the risk of skin cancer
and without a shred of doubt reduces the risk of early signs of aging.
Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered 61
Bottom line: While understanding sunscreen isnt necessarily easy, if you

remember to liberally apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen daily as the
last step in your skincare routine, that is a great start and just doing that will
keep your skin younger longer.
When we say the best skin of your life starts here, this is how it begins
with daily, diligent sun protection, your skin will look younger and stay that
way longer. Youll also reduce the risk of early signs of aging and even skin
cancer. Think about it, isnt having firmer-looking more resilient, healthier,
supple, and more even skin tone something we all desire? Thats what daily
use of sunscreen can provide.
RECOMMENDED SUNSCREENS FROM PAULAS

CHOICE SKINCARE
RESIST Super-Light Daily Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 All Skin Types ($32)
RESIST Youth Extending Daily Fluid SPF 50 Normal to Oily Skin ($32)
SKIN RECOVERY Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 Normal to Dry Skin
($29)
SKIN BALANCING Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense SPF 30 Normal to Oily Skin
($29)
CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Moisturizer Normal to Dry Skin ($29)
CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin ($29)
CLEAR Ultra-Light Daily Fluid SPF 30 for Normal to Oily Skin ($33)
C HAPTER 8
Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out
WHY SKIN AGES AND WRINKLES

Before you spend another dime on products claiming to get rid of fine lines
and firm your skin, its important that you know what causes the signs of ag-
ing and how skincare products can either help or make matters worse. Merely
hoping that the next product you buy will finally be the answer is a gamble for
your skin that can waste your time and money.
All signs of aging are caused by a variety of factors, some that can be han-
dled by skincare products, and others that cannot. The primary factors are as
follows:
Unprotected sun exposure and the damage it causes. We know were nag-
ging, but facts are facts, and your commitment to this will change your skin
like no other skincare step. Repeated unprotected exposure to the deadly
rays of the sun, over the short term and long term, is a disaster waiting to
happen. This cumulative unprotected exposure and not being sun smart is,
well, sun foolish. Sun protection using a product with SPF 30 or greater ab-
solutely reduces the risk of early signs of aging and skin cancer. Using sun-
screen 365 days a year will not only save your skin, it can also save your life.
Chronological aging. Every year we get a little older, and each year adds up
for skin just as it does for the body.
Midlife changes impact the texture, resiliency, and suppleness of skin. The
most common sign? Skin becomes less dense and doesnt bounce back
when pinched. Enlarged pores can also occur, giving skin an orange-peel
texture.
Facial movement determines what areas begin to show signs of aging
first; the parts of your face you use the most develops fine lines sooner and
deeper.
Breakdown of the skins surface from unprotected sun exposure, environ-

mental assault, or from using skincare products that contain harsh ingre-
dients. Combined these elements decrease the essential, youthful, healthy,
skin-protecting substances of skin including its amount of antioxidants,
skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients leaving skin
vulnerable to internal and external aging influences.
Armed with this information, you can get a better handle on what you can
realistically expect from skincare products to make the biggest difference in
your skin. Youll also be able to more easily spot cosmetics claims that are be-
yond the capability of even the best (or most expensive) skincare products.
CAN ANTIWRINKLE PRODUCTS HELP?

The answer is unequivocally, yes! Antiwrinkle products absolutely can
help, but only if you use the best products for your skin type and skin concerns
in a consistent, synergistic skincare routine. For many people, the results can
be astounding.
As weve been saying, achieving such results is never about what any one
product or one ingredient (no matter how much its hyped) can do. Just like a
healthy diet isnt about eating only one food or one nutrient, skin is far more
complicated than any one ingredient or one product can address.
There are mandatory ingredients that weve been stressing throughout
that you need to fight skin aging. As a reminder, we list these ingredients one
more time:
Topically applied antioxidants, without question, are essential for having
the appearance of younger skin, and the more antioxidants included in your
skincare products, the better to interrupt external influences on skin.
Important reminder: As powerful as antioxidants are, theyre also delicate
and will break down in the presence of air. Therefore, they must be protected
from exposure to air so they can remain effective in a skincare product. When
antioxidants are packaged in a jar, theyre exposed to air the second the jar is
opened, causing them to deteriorate and lose their effectiveness.
Healthy young skin naturally contains an abundance of skin-replenishing
substances that keep skin smooth, retain moisture, helps skin resist environ-
ment assault, stay supple and resilient, and lessen chances of redness and skin
sensitivity. Because of age and unprotected sun exposure, skin loses its ability
to hold onto these substances. Giving skin back what the sun and age have
taken away is critical to skin health, having younger-looking skin, diminishing
dry skin, calming skin, and on and on. Skincare products that contain ample
Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out 65
amounts of skin-replenishing ingredients are essential to fighting signs of ag-

ing.
Skin-restoring ingredients are fascinating; they literally work to help skin
reorganize, rebalance, rejuvenate, and reestablish itself. Its an exciting and
intriguing area of skincare and these are ingredients your skincare products
must contain!
THESE ARE THE TYPES OF ANTIWRINKLE

PRODUCTS YOU NEED
Daytime moisturizer with SPF 30 or greater or a foundation with SPF 30
or greater. Enough said, right?
Toner loaded with all the skin-nourishing ingredients mentioned above
to replenish your skin quickly after cleansing.
AHA or BHA leave-on exfoliant. When these types of non-abrasive exfo-
liating products are well-formulated, they gently exfoliate the surface of skin,
just as skin did naturally when we were young, providing an almost instanta-
neous smoother, softer, more radiant, even-toned, resilient, and less wrinkled
appearance by revealing the younger skin hiding beneath.
BHA and AHAs help create smoother and firmer looking skin.
BHA and AHAs can greatly diminish dry, flaky, rough, uneven skin.
BHA can noticeably minimize the size of enlarged pores.
BHA can diminish clogged pores, white bumps, and large pores.
Moisturizer loaded with all the anti-aging ingredients weve been talking
about.
Boosters or serums containing concentrated amounts of specific or a
combination of unique ingredients that help you address your specific skin
concerns. These exceptional ingredients must be present in higher strengths,
in pure forms, or in special delivery systems to have the utmost positive impact
on skin. Because of these formulary considerations, these ingredients cant fit
in a traditional moisturizer or serum, which is why we created our boosters.
We love serums and boosters, so not surprisingly at Paulas Choice Skincare
weve formulated many of them so to be as perfectly honest, as we always strive
to be, we are obviously a bit biased, but we assure you for very good scientific
reasons. In particular wed like to point out our five RESIST Boosters because
the high concentration of the specific ingredient they contain is intriguing.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a very important anti-aging ingredient. High
concentration of this vitamin has impressive benefits. Growing amounts of
research shows that in higher concentration it can significantly help mini-
mize pore size, diminish the appearance of wrinkles, and adjust an uneven
skin tone. When it is formulated in a light-as-water fluid consistency it can
work for all skin types and easily be layered with other products in your core
skin care routine.
Vitamin C in high concentrations is another supercharged anti-aging in-
gredient for all skin types and easily layered with other products and added to
any skincare routine. This potent pure concentration of vitamin C has been
shown to improve the feel of lost firmness, to brighten and increase radiance,
to impressively even skin tone, to improve marks on skin, and to smooth skin
texture.
Pure blends of concentrated non-fragrant plant oils can have skin-re-
plenishing, nourishing, and antioxidant properties for skin. They are a perfect
way to soothe skin, provide immediate relief for rough, tight, dry skin on the
face or around the eye area, and ease redness and sensitivity. It can be used all
over or as a spot solution over dehydrated areas of skin.
Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that is nothing less than fascinating for
skin. Hyaluronic acid is a skin-replenishing ingredient found naturally in skin.
It is a miracle for reviving dehydrated skin, helping skin to appear plumper
and regain bounce, and dramatically improving skin texture. In fact, one gram
(0.03 ounces) of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six liters (1 quart) of water!
Now that really is mind-blowing. Your skin may never be thirsty again.
Retinol is a superstar ingredient and because of this deserves its own
section.
RETINOL
While there are dozens of heroic skincare ingredients, retinol stands out
from the rest and is worthy of a brief discussion. Suffice it to say, a product
containing retinol, preferably a 1% concentration (though other concentra-
tions as small as 0.3% have research showing it can have remarkable results as
well), is a top-tier anti-aging ingredient. Of course, other brilliant ingredients
must be included along with the retinol, but its important to understand why
retinol is an ingredient deserving of your attention.
Retinol is another name for vitamin A and it works as a skin-restoring in-
gredient. Over time, it has gained much-deserved fame for what it can do for
skin, but along with that fame has come a lot of misleading information and
myths that have grown up around it. Because the research shows how helpful
retinol can be for anti-aging, we want to clear up some of those myths for you.
One of the major myths wed like to bust is the fear that retinol may be too
strong for your skin and cause problems. That is an exaggerated piece of skin-
care nonsense. Skin can be sensitive to just about anything you put on it, from
plant extracts to sunscreen ingredients, vitamin C, and on and on. Retinol
is no exception; some people may find their skin doesnt like retinol. So, just
like any skincare ingredient or skincare product, even the best of the best, not
everyone can use everything.
The other myth about retinol is that it exfoliates skin and, therefore, you
dont need an AHA or BHA exfoliant, but thats not what retinol does for
skin. Retinol and AHAs or BHA work very differently to improve skin, but
they complement each other when paired in a complete skincare routine. Its
a misconception that retinol works by exfoliating skin, so we understand why
this issue has become confusing.
Retinol is an antioxidant and an important skin-restoring ingredient that
enhances every aspect of helping to turn skin around so it looks healthier,
smoother, and more vibrant. Retinol does this by impacting skin on many lev-
els, while AHAs and BHA affect only dead surface skin. The surface of skin is
where AHAs or BHA step in to help shed unhealthy, dead skin; retinol does
not do that.
Retinol may cause a flaking reaction for some people, but this side effect
(which is often temporary) isnt the same as exfoliation. Dont mistake flaking
for exfoliation. When healthy, normal exfoliation is taking place, you shouldnt
see it or feel it. If you do, it means you either have to reduce the frequency of
use of the retinol product or the frequency of use of the AHA or BHA exfo-
liant.
WHEN SHOULD YOU BEGIN USING ANTI-AGING

PRODUCTS?
The answer is now. Think of it this way. Its common knowledge that do-
ing things like eating a balanced diet, exercising, not abusing your body with
smoking and excessive alcohol, keeps your body healthier and younger longer.
Actually, its the overarching lifetime strategy everyone should follow.
With that in mind, it doesnt make sense to wait until you are unfit, not
well, or in your 40s, 50s, or 60s to start a healthier diet or lifestyle, right? Just
the opposite is true, the sooner you start the more likely your physical well-be-
ing will be with you for the long haul.
The same is true when it comes to skincare, especially anti-aging skincare!
Beginning now to use products loaded with these impressive formulations be-
fore you start seeing signs of aging will put you on track for having and keep-
ing the beautiful skin you want now and in the future.
Keep in mind that just like your body never stops benefiting from (gets
used to) eating a healthy diet, nor does your skin stop benefiting from skin
revitalizing ingredients. Your skin craves and needs generous amounts of the
beneficial ingredients we talk about all the timeantioxidants, skin-replen-
ishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredientsto help it remain healthy.
These ingredients continue to work even after the inevitable effects of skin
aging start to show up, but without question, sooner is better than later!
RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS FROM

PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE FOR NORMAL TO DRY
SKIN
Cleanser
RESIST Optimal Results Hydrating Cleanser ($19)
Toner
RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner ($24)
AHA Exfoliants
RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA ($33)
RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment with 10% AHA ($36)
Serum
RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38)
Eye Cream
RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33)
Daytime Moisturizer with SPF

RESIST Cellular Defense Moisturizer with SPF 25 and Antioxidants ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizers
RESIST Intensive Repair Cream ($33)
RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($33)
RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS FROM

PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE FOR NORMAL TO OILY
SKIN
Cleanser
RESIST Perfectly Balanced Cleanser ($19)
Toner
RESIST Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner ($24)
BHA Exfoliants
RESIST Daily Pore-Refining Treatment 2% BHA ($33)
RESIST Weekly Retexturizing Foaming 4% BHA ($36)
Serum
RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38)
Eye Cream

RESIST Youth Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizer
RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($33)
RECOMMENDED TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND

BOOSTERS FROM PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE FOR
ALL SKIN TYPES
CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment Lotion ($56)
RESIST 1% Retinol Booster Fluid ($52)
RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42)
RESIST C15 Super Booster ($49)
RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($46)
RESIST Moisture Renewal Oil Booster ($36)
RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% AHA Lotion ($27)
RESIST Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment ($34)
RADIANCE Renewal Mask ($36)
CHAPTE R 9
The Anti-Aging Diet
EATING RIGHT
Any discussion about keeping your skin young and rejuvenated must in-
clude your diet. Similar to how eating the right kinds of foods keeps your body
healthy, a healthy diet can help keep skin looking younger longer and looking
more radiant. The research about this is very clear; When you combine a bril-
liant skincare routine (including being sun smart) and a skin-friendly diet they
add up to achieving the best skin of your life!
Eating the right foods and minimizing how much you eat of the foods that
trigger aging helps slow signs of aging. Research has clearly demonstrated that
the following foods are the worst in terms of promoting skin aging. Really,
there is no debate that these foods are skin predators, and we all know we too
often choose to ignore it this information.
PRO-AGING FOODS
Sugar, especially refined sugars such as high-fructose corn syrup, but any
sugar (including honey and, yes, even agave nectar) causes a cascade of neg-
ative results for skin.
Trans-fat (any oil listed as partially hydrogenated qualifies), which in-
cludes margarine and most shortenings.
Processed or cured meats, including bacon, which contains nitrites and
nitrates, are not good for your body or your skin.
Red meat, choose the leanest cuts, avoid grilling with charcoal, and do not
cook it until its dark brown or black, which increases harmful chemicals
from being produced in the body.
Highly processed foods, which include most of the items on the menu at
fast-food restaurants and lots of the pre-packaged meals and snack foods in
grocery stores, even those in natural or organic grocery stores.

White flour, which is the source of the simple carbohydrates present in
most baked goods, no matter how fresh.
Wheat flour is just as bad; white flour is simply bleached wheat flour.
Desserts such as cakes, pastries, and, yes, even that breakfast bran muffin,
are often loaded with sugar, and many of them are made from white flour.
Too much salt in your diet can also leave skin looking the worse for wear,
including puffy, tired-looking eyes because it causes water retention. (This
is not the kind of water retention that improves skin hydration.)
ANTI-AGING GROCERY LIST

The next time youre jotting down your grocery list, be sure to add the fol-
lowing anti-aging foods to your list, and de-list the ones above that will make
your skin look older and less healthy:
Green, black, and red teas.
Deeply colored berries, such as blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries.
Deeply colored vegetables, especially leafy greens and cruciferous vegeta-
bles, such as red cabbage.
Red, green, yellow, and orange bell peppers, and all types of hot peppers.
Salmon and other cold-water, oily fish rich in omega-3 fatty acids, and,
when possible, choose wild-caught rather than farm-raised.
Walnuts are considered the superman of nuts, but most nuts have health
benefits, so buy the nuts you like the best. Choose raw if available, as too
much processing reduces the nutrient value of nuts.
Plant oils such as olive oil and canola oil.
Whole grains.
Spices such as basil, cardamom, cumin, curry, garlic, ginger, oregano,
tamarind, and turmeric, but be sure to use them up quickly after opening
because spices deteriorate quickly, losing their nutritional punch.
Flax, sunflower, and pumpkin seeds.
An anti-aging diet is one of the more beautiful things you can do for your
health and your skin. Routinely eating the right foods can lead to young-
er-looking and healthier skin, improving dryness, creating a more radiant
complexion, diminishing bumps, and calming skin. This dietary approach,
combined with state-of-the-art skincare, really can give you the best skin of
your life!
C HAPTER 10
Managing Oily Skin
WHAT CAUSES OILY SKIN

When your skin has a normal balanced amount of oil it does wonderful
things for skinhydration, smoothness, softness, healthy skin flora, and
environmental safeguard. However, when it is delivered to skin in copious
amounts, the appearance and feel make it as undesirable as it gets in skin-
care, and trying to manage it becomes a priority. Unfortunately, it isnt easy
to manage.
Oily skin is almost always the result of predetermined changes in the body
that typically occur during the teenage years. However, as some of us know all
too well, it can happen at any age, especially during midlife changes.
Just because youre not a teenager anymore doesnt mean youve dodged
the bullet, oily skin can show up all of a sudden and hold your skin hostage.
What is so frustrating about oily skin is that its triggered by events taking
place inside your body, not on your skin, so its extremely difficult to control
topically.
An especially unwanted aspect of oily skin is that you often end up strug-
gling with clogged pores, bumps, enlarged pores, and dull surface skin.
Not sure if you have oily skin? Its recognizable by a few classic character-
istics:
Your face is shiny only an hour or two after cleansing, and usually appears
greasy by midday.
Your makeup seems to slide off or disappear shortly after you apply it.
The shiniest parts of your face have clogged pores and bumps.
Your pores are visibly enlarged, especially on your nose, chin, and forehead.
GET SHINE UNDER CONTROLTHE DONT LIST

The first step in caring for oily skin is to take a critical look at your current
skincare routine. Take these recommendations to heart as they will be game
changers for your skin.
Be gentle especially with cleansing. Aggravating your skin makes every-
thing worse for oily skin. Soap and bar cleansers arent your friends because
they can be drying and the complete opposite of being gentle to your skin.
Avoid harsh scrubs and cleansing brushes with stiff bristles as they are in some
ways even worse than bar cleanser and bar soaps as they cause micro-tears in
skin disrupting and harming the skins surface.
Avoid products that make your skin tingle (such as those containing
menthol, mint, eucalyptus, and lemon) or that contain SD or denatured al-
cohol. These may feel like they are helping your oily skin or doing something
because of the tingling sensation, but theyre actually making matters worse.
When your skin tingles, it means its being aggravated, and as we said aggra-
vating your skin can actually trigger the oil glands to produce more oil. This is
a very important fact to keep in mind because lots of products claiming to be
good for oily skin, bumps, and clogged pores often contain problematic harsh
ingredients.
Products that are overly thick and emollient will make oily skin feel oilier
because they contain waxy emollient ingredients that are great for dry skin,
but someone with oily skin doesnt need that at all. Steer clear of products
that have a thick, heavy, or solid texture, such as solid stick-styled foundations,
thick greasy concealers, or rich, emollient moisturizers or balms. All of these
are likely to make skin feel oilier and potentially clog pores. Instead, use only
liquid, thin light serums, or gel moisturizers or boosters for both skincare and
makeup.
GET SHINE UNDER CONTROLTHE DO LIST

The following essential skincare guidelines for getting oily skin to slow
down will help you take as much control of your skin as possible, so youll see
less oil, smaller pores, and fewer bumps.
Cleanse twice daily with a gentle, water-soluble cleanser. Ideally, the
cleanser should rinse without leaving a hint of residue or leaving skin tight
or dry. It should also be fragrance-free because fragrance, whether natural or
synthetic, is always a negative trigger for skin.
Use a toner that is completely non-irritating, meaning it is free of alco-
hol, witch hazel, and fragrance, but loaded with skin-nourishing ingredients
including antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing in-
Managing Oily Skin 75
gredients. Toners that contain these ingredients can help skin feel soft, min-
imize oily skin, be more hydrated, diminish enlarged pores, and remove the
last traces of makeup, which can lead to clogged pores.
Gentle exfoliation with a completely non-abrasive leave-on BHA gel or
liquid is ideal for those with oily skin. Oily skin tends to have an extra build-
up of dead skin on the surface along with a thickened pore lining. Exfoliating
skins surface and inside the pore lining is the best way to remove that build-
up, shrink clogged pores and bumps, and make skin feel unbelievably smooth-
er and thats what BHA does best. A unique benefit of BHA is that it can also
calm skin.
Sun protection 365 days a year, rain or shine. Even if you have oily skin, a
sunscreen is essential for reducing the risk of early signs of aging, skin cancer,
and anything else about your skin you want to improve. If youve avoided sun-
screens because the ones youve tried felt too greasy or too occlusive, or if you
were afraid theyd clog pores or cause bumps, we provide product recommen-
dations at the end of this chapter that hopefully will change your impression
of sunscreens for good.
Apply a moisturizer at night, but dont use a traditional one. Just because
you have oily skin doesnt mean you should forgo giving your skin the high-
est quality ingredients to keep your skin healthy, hydrated, renewed, and re-
freshed with lessened redness. The way to give your skin these remarkably
nourishing ingredients without adding emollients that will feel greasy is to
use only extremely lightweight liquids, gels, or weightless serum formula-
tions. Youll get the remarkable benefits these ingredients provide without any
of the weight traditional moisturizing creams and lotions impart.
Use an oil-absorbing product during the day. Even with all our recom-
mendations, when you have oily skin, there are simply limitations to what
skincare products can do, which means youll probably still need to use an
oil-absorbing product during the day. These are products that contain ingre-
dients such as clay (and it doesnt have to be a special clay, despite the claims
made about miracle versions from volcanoes or rare earthmeaning dirt, sili-
ca, which is exceptionally absorbent), various powders, and starches.
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULAS

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR OILY SKIN
Cleansers
SKIN BALANCING Oil-Reducing Cleanser ($18)
CALM Redness Relief Cleanser Normal to Oily Skin ($18)
Toners
SKIN BALANCING Pore-Reducing Toner ($21)
CALM Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Oily Skin ($21)
BHA Exfoliants
SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid ($29)
SKIN PERFECTING Gel Exfoliant ($29)
CALM Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant ($27)
Serums
SKIN BALANCING Super Antioxidant Serum ($34)
CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34)
Eye Cream
Daytime Moisturizers with SPF

SKIN BALANCING Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30
($29)
CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin
($29)
Nighttime Moisturizers
SKIN BALANCING Invisible Finish Moisture Gel ($29)
CALM Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin ($29)
Oil-Absorbing Products
SHINE STOPPER Instant Matte Finish ($23)
RECOMMENDED TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND

BOOSTERS FROM PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE
SELECTED FOR NORMAL TO OILY SKIN
RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 2% BHA Gel ($27)
CHAPTER 11
Dry Skin
HOW TO CARE FOR DRY SKIN

When skins surface is healthy and intact, its water content is somewhere
between 10% and 30%, so it can be healthy even if it loses some moisture. If
the surface of skin is not healthy and intact, this balance is upset, and skin
loses water, resulting in dry skin.
It turns out that keeping skins water content balanced is not actually about
adding more water to skin; in fact, too much water is not a good thing! Too
much moisture, such as from soaking in a bathtub for a long period, is a prob-
lem for skin because excess water disrupts skins surface, making it difficult
to keep the water content normalthe result is dry, flaky, dehydrated, and
crepey skin.
The primary reason your skin becomes dry is because its surface, for many
reasons, loses its ability to maintain normal moisture levels. Health, what you
inherit from your parents, and age are significant factors, but what certainly
makes it worse or for many can be a primary cause is unprotected sun expo-
sure that impairs the surface of skin. Adding to the severity of that problem, or
perhaps even causing it, is using skincare products that contain drying, harsh,
skin-aggravating ingredients.
In terms of unprotected sun exposure, have you ever noticed that the parts
of your body that have been protected from the sun (the parts not routinely
exposed to daylight) are rarely, if ever, dry? Just look at the inside of your arm
or your derrire! Thats because areas with little to no sun damage dont suffer
from the range of problems caused by the cumulative damage of unprotected
daily exposure to UV light.
WHAT NOT TO DO FOR DRY SKIN

Anything you do that inhibits your skins ability to keep water safely where
it belongs either causes dry skin or makes dry skin worse. As always, the first
step to improving dry skin is to stop doing things that make it worse, which
include the following:
Bar soaps/cleansers of all kinds (anything in bar form and natural or not)
are always more drying than gentle, non-drying water-soluble cleansers.
Overly drying, water-soluble cleansers that leave skin feeling tight and dry,
which must be avoided.
Products with ingredients that are drying, sensitizing, or cause redness,
such as denatured or SD alcohol, peppermint, menthol, mint, citrus, euca-
lyptus, and fragrance, including the so-called essential oils.
Excessive exposure to hot water or steam.
Abrasive scrubs that tear at skins surface, disrupting its ability to hold onto
water.
Loofahs or cleansing brushes with stiff bristles because they are abrasive
on skins surface.
Unprotected sun exposure. If youve gotten this far in the book, you already
know why, but this is by far one of the worse things you can do.
All of the above-mentioned activities and products disrupt skins surface,

which in turn leads to water loss and destroys the vital substances in skin that
allow it to hold onto just the right amount of moisture. The next step is what
you need to do now to keep skin hydrated and moist.
HOW TO CARE FOR DRY SKIN

Regardless of the root cause of your dry skin, the fundamental need is to
help skin achieve and maintain a healthy moisture balance. The primary way
to do that is to help put disrupted skin back together as best you can. When
skin lacks the essential natural substances it needs to remain intact, the job of
great skincare products is to give skin back those substances, in abundance.
This is how you do that:
Wear sunscreen rated SPF 30+ daily, rain or shine, hot or cold weather.
Unprotected exposure to the sun slowly, but surely, over time impairs
skins ability to hold onto moisture or to feel smooth and soft.
Cleanse your face with a gentle, non-irritating water-soluble cleanser
that leaves your skin soft and soothed with no tight or dry feeling what-
soever.
Dry Skin 79
Use moisturizers, serums, gels, lotions, creams, boosters, essences, an-

tiwrinkle creams, anti-aging creams, firming creams, or whatever the
name is on the label that are filled to the brim with antioxidants, skin-re-
storing ingredients, and especially skin-replenishing ingredients that help
skin hold onto water.
Gently exfoliate: Soothingly shedding the build-up of dead surface skin is
something your skin can do on its own when its young, healthy, and not
yet damaged from unprotected sun exposure. When skin no longer exfoli-
ates efficiently on its own, it becomes dull, rough, dry, and dehydrated, and
the moisturizers you apply wont be absorbed very well, thus limiting their
potential for making a difference. Using a completely non-abrasive, leave-
on alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant can help
skin shed in a more natural, youthful manner to reveal the plumper look-
ing skin hiding below.
For very dry skin, use a blend of pure non-fragrant, nourishing plant oils,
such as almond, argan, borage, coconut, evening primrose, jojoba seed, ol-
ive, or safflower oils, applied after cleansing, toning, and exfoliating, but
before applying your moisturizer. This can make a significant difference.
Use only non-irritating skincare products. But you already knew that,
right? Still, we just had to mention it again!
Dont forget your lips: Lips are the least capable of staying smooth and soft,
so dont leave them naked, day or night. During the day, apply and reapply
an emollient lipstick or gloss that provides sun protection (an incredibly
important anti-aging step for your lips). At night, dont go to sleep without
protecting your lips with an emollient lip balm. These must be completely
non-irritating and should not contain fragrance, menthol, camphor, or fra-
grant oils because theyll only make dry lips worse.
DOES DRINKING MORE WATER HELP?

Can you just drink more water to eliminate dry skin? This is one of those
beauty myths that refuses to go away, but here are the facts: Although drink-
ing eight glasses of water a day is great for your body, the research doesnt
show that it improves or even lessens dry skin. If you could get rid of dry skin
just by drinking more water, wouldnt it be wonderful? How simple, right?
And no one would need to endure this frustrating concern and struggle with
searching for the perfect moisturizer or worrying about any of the skincare
products they use. Alas, drinking more water will only result in more trips to
the bathroom; the water you drink doesnt go to your skin the way we wish it
did to keep it hydrated and diminish dryness.

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR DRY SKIN
The following products are highly recommended for dry to very dry skin,
but arent necessarily ideal for dry skin thats also struggling with acne. If you
have dry skin and bumps or clogged pores, consider the lighter-weight mois-
turizers (both daytime and nighttime) we recommend in the chapters on oily
skin and combination skin, and know that you may need to layer the light-
er-weight products for extra hydration, rather than apply one rich and emol-
lient moisturizer to dry areas.
Cleansers
SKIN RECOVERY Softening Cream Cleanser ($18)
CALM Redness Relief Cleanser for Normal to Dry Skin ($18)
Toners
SKIN RECOVERY Enriched Calming Toner ($21)
CALM Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin ($21)
AHA Exfoliants
SKIN PERFECTING 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant ($32)
CALM Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant ($27)
Serums
SKIN RECOVERY Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($34)
CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34)
Eye Cream
Daytime Moisturizers with SPF

SKIN RECOVERY Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 ($29)
CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer ($29)
SKIN RECOVERY Replenishing Moisturizer ($29)
Dry Skin 81
RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING TARGETED

SOLUTIONS AND BOOSTERS FROM PAULAS
CHOICE SKINCARE SELECTED FOR NORMAL TO
DRY SKIN
RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% AHA Lotion ($27)
CHAPTER 12
Balancing Combination Skin
WHAT IS COMBINATION SKIN?

Combination skin is simply having oily skin in some areas of your face and
dry skin in other areas. So typical there is a mix of oily and dry areas on dif-
ferent parts of your face or you have a layer of oily skin on top of dry skin
underneath.
Whether you have oily areas only around the nose and center of the fore-
head and dry areas usually over the cheeks, jaw area, and along the hairline, or
you have a layer of oily skin all over your face with dry skin underneath, what
you do to lessen those problems is the same.
WHAT CAUSES COMBINATION SKIN?

A variety of factors can contribute to combination skin, but more often
than not it just comes down to the luck of the draw in terms of what cards you
were dealt at birth, meaning what you inherited from your parents. However,
the types of skincare products youre using can absolutely make it worse or
even cause the problem in the first place. Heres what you may unknowingly
be doing to contribute to this skincare problem.
As you might already have suspected, using products that contain harsh or
skin-aggravating ingredients will inevitably dry out some areas of your face
while stimulating oil production in other parts (especially around the nose)
that were already oily in the first place.
When you naturally have oily skin all over your face and youre using
skin-aggravating, drying products that will cause the surface of skin to become
dry and flaky but there will also be a noticeable layer of oil on top because
those kinds of products do not stop your skin from producing oil.
If you are using the wrong products, you might actually be causing your
combination skin. If you use the right products, you probably still will have
oily skin, but at least you wont have dry rough skin underneath.
WHAT PRODUCTS TO USE FOR COMBINATION SKIN

The key thing to keep in mind with combination skin is there is no one-
size-fits solution because it depends on how dry your dry areas are naturally
and how much of the dryness is caused by the products you are using.
If you have naturally dry skin on areas of your face, the oil-absorbing or
matte-finish ingredients that work great on oily areas will be a trouble-maker
on the dry areas. This probably means you will need to apply a more emollient
moisturizer over the dry areas, but if you apply that all over your face the oily
areas will become oilier so keeping things separate is important. And the same
for the products aimed to absorb oil; keep them off the dry areas.
The following guidelines may help get you on the right path with options
that gently balance skin.
Use a gentle, soothing gel-based or pearlescent cleanser that can also be
mildly foaming. Regardless of the texture, it must be gentle and leave skin soft
without feeling tight or dry.
Apply a hydrating soothing non-irritating toner filled with a healthy
amount of skin-replenishing ingredients and antioxidants. A well-formulat-
ed toner really can help nourish dry skin and minimize oiliness at the same
timeand it wont make the dry areas drier or the oily areas oilier! Dont skip
this step!
By now, were sure youre tired of us repeating how important it is to use
a gentle, non-abrasive, leave-on beta hydroxy acid (BHA, salicylic acid), but
theres no way around it, this is an optimal choice for exfoliating combination
skin and significantly, sometimes overnight, improving both concerns. A BHA
exfoliant helps skin shed dead skin normally without abrasion (meaning no
scrubs or stiff cleansing brushes), unclogs pores, lessens oily skin, and at the
same time gently smooths rough dry flaky skin and makes it far less flaky or
tight. For combination skin, a gel or weightless fluid or serum-textured BHA
exfoliant is best.
Sun protection is another gimme. You must use a lightweight sunscreen
with SPF 30 or greater that has a soft matte finish. Over the dry areas, you may
need to apply a light serum and then apply your sunscreen over it.
Use a nighttime moisturizer with a gel, serum, fluid, or even liquid tex-
ture that contains all the amazing ingredients we hope you know by heart
now: antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredi-
Balancing Combination Skin 85
ents. These are imperative to help calm skin, lessen oil production, and im-
prove dry areas. If you have very dry areas, you may need to apply a richer,
more emollient moisturizer just to those areas, being sure to blend away from
the oil-prone areas.

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR COMBINATION SKIN
Putting together a skincare routine for combination skin isnt easy as it
takes a mix of different textured products. From Paulas Choice Skincare we
think this is the most logical place for you to start. You may have to tweak a
bit with a serum or booster that is a bit more emollient over dry areas, but
experimenting with the best products is really the hallmark of getting the best
skin of your life.
Cleanser
RESIST Perfectly Balanced Cleanser ($18)
Toner
RESIST Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner ($23)
BHA Exfoliant
SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant Gel (gel texture; $28)
Serum
RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($36)
Booster
Eye Cream

RESIST Youth-Extending Daily Fluid SPF 50 ($32)
RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($32)
RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING TARGETED

SOLUTIONS AND BOOSTERS FROM PAULAS
CHOICE SKINCARE SELECTED FOR COMBINATION
SKIN
RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 2% BHA Lotion ($27)
C HAPTER 13
Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age)
UNDERSTANDING ACNE
Acne is one of the most troublesome and common skincare problems for
people around the world, and emotionally one of the most embarrassing. Al-
though most often associated with teenagers and the onset of puberty, you can
suffer from acne at any age. Even if you never had it when you were younger,
acne can still occur.
Most of us are familiar with acne to some degreeeven if we dont know
the specifics, we all know what it looks like. Acnes textbook definition de-
scribes it as a skin disorder occurring when hair follicles (every pore on your
face is actually part of a follicle) become plugged with dead skin and oil, caus-
ing skin to become aggravated, and finally erupting in a swollen angry bump
centered with a white fluid-filled sac. In short, you have a pimple (a word we
just hate).
That mixture of oil and dead skin creates an environment that is ripe for
blemishes. What we want to impress on you, first and foremost, is that you do
not want to make those angry blemishes more angry! So, even though it might
seem counterintuitive, what your skin needs is gentle soothing products and
to be handled tenderlythat is fundamental to getting acne under control.
SKINCARE FOR ACNE IS THE SAME FOR EVERYONE

Regardless of your age, gender, nationality, where you live, skin color, or
race, research has made it abundantly clear that the steps we describe below
are what it takes to tackle the problem and get it under control.
THE BASICS
Keep skin clean, but dont overdo it. Clean skin is a good thing because
cleansing removes excess oil, debris, impurities, and makeup that contribute
to clogged pores and create the conditions for acne to occur. But, over-cleans-
ing, being too rough, or cleansing too often, especially if you use harsh cleans-
ers, scrubs, or cleansing brushes with stiff bristles will aggravate skin and make
it redder than it already isthat is not a good thing.
GENTLE cleansing is an absolute must. The best way to go is to cleanse
your face twice a day with an effective, but skin-softening, water-soluble
cleanser.
You also must stay away from bar soaps and bar cleansersthey can leave
a film or residue on your skin, which in turn can clog pores and diminish the
effectiveness of any anti-acne products you apply after cleansing. Bar soaps
and bar cleansers also are drying, and that doesnt promote healthy skin, and
healthy skin is always the goal when combating acnecompromised skin just
cant do that very well, if at all.
Avoid skincare and makeup products that contain harsh, skin-aggravat-
ing ingredients. Skin-aggravating products upset skin, increase redness, and,
therefore, make acne worse. Unfortunately, many skincare and makeup prod-
ucts, including many claiming to be for acne-prone skin, contain problematic
harsh, drying ingredients.
Drying out your skin will not help get rid of acne. Also on the do not use
list are mint (including menthol and peppermint), witch hazel, eucalyptus, or
citrus ingredients, as they will wreak havoc on your skin, too. Amazingly, these
ingredients show up in a shocking number of products claiming to help acne!
Be sure to remove all your makeup before going to bed. Makeup does not
cause acne, but falling asleep with your makeup on, or just not getting it all off
before bed, will aggravate your skin and inhibit skin from exfoliating, which
will lead to blocked pores, which in turn exacerbates the conditions (dryness,
rough skin, aggravated skin, and oil) that promote acne.
If you need to remove heavy makeup or just want to feel extra clean (with-
out harsh ingredients or scrubs), you can use a cleansing brush with soft bris-
tles (and we mean really soft) or a soft washcloth with a gentle water-soluble
cleanser. Please do not use abrasive scrubs or cleansing brushes with stiff bris-
tles because they tear skin and weaken it, which is never ever a good thing. You
need intact skin to help lessen breakouts.
After rinsing your face, follow with a gentle toner that contains a healthy
supply of antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients. This will not only
Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age) 89
calm, nourish, and recharge your skin, it will also remove any last traces of
pore-clogging makeup.
Avoid overly emollient or thick moisturizers. These types of products not
only make oily skin feel oilier and greasy, but also can block pores. No matter
how you look at it, these products usually are a problem for someone strug-
gling with breakouts and oily skin.
Be careful to keep haircare products off your skin, especially emollient
conditioners and heavy styling products. If your hairstyle is such that your
hair touches your forehead or the sides of your face, traces of the products you
use to style your hair will also end up on your skin. Therefore, if you have acne-
prone skin, avoid using thick, waxy hairstyling products along the hairline be-
cause they can clog pores and lead to breakouts. Conditioners can also trigger
acne breakouts, so also avoid getting these on your face. If you have neck or
back acne, try rinsing the conditioner from your hair in a way that prevents
the conditioner from coming into contact with those areas.
Protect yourself from the sun. You might have heard that sunlight can
clear up acne breakouts, but there is no research indicating that sun expo-
sure (meaning getting a tan or, even worse, a sunburn) clears up acne. If any-
thing, unprotected sun exposure weakens skin and doesnt let it renew itself
to reveal healthy skin, and, as weve said time and time again, having healthy
skin is always the goal for any skin concern.
ACNE SOLUTIONS THAT WORK

When youre battling acne breakouts, the key is to look for ingredients that
are proven to specifically combat acne breakouts effectively, quickly, and gen-
tly. The two absolute best over-the-counter (OTC) acne-fighting ingredients
(often referred to as the gold standard ingredients), as demonstrated by a vast
amount of medical and scientific research, are salicylic acid (also known as
BHA) and benzoyl peroxide.
In fact, these two ingredients are so beneficial in combating acne they are
considered by experts around the world as the best options to try first if you
have mild to moderate acne.
Salicylic Acid: Also known as BHA, its an amazing multifunctional ingre-
dient that deals with acne in several ways. It not only calms redness, but also
gently exfoliates both on the surface to remove the build-up of dead surface
skin, as well as inside the pore where the pore lining can get thick, and so also
benefits from exfoliation.
For salicylic acid (BHA) formulas to be effective, they must have a concen-
tration of at least 0.5%, although for most with acne prone skin a 2% concen-
tration will be far more effective. Also, the formulas pH is critical, with a pH
of 34 being optimal. Sadly, many salicylic acid products for acne dont meet
these criteriathe concentration is too low and/or the pH is too highso
they end up not being very effective, if at all, on acne and clogged pores. Of
course, those that do meet the criteria are ideal options.
In addition, the salicylic acid (BHA) product you select much be completely
non-irritating so that the skin stays calm and the blemishes dont look angrier
than they already are. Fortunately, well-formulated salicylic acid products do
exist, from Paulas Choice Skincare as well as from other brands.
Benzoyl peroxide is considered the most effective over-the-counter choice
for acne. In concentrations of 2.5% to 5% benzoyl peroxide can go to work fast
to get acne under control.
There are benzoyl peroxide products with a 10% concentration, but they
are considered harsh on skin, and, therefore, are not the best option, especially
not the concentration you want to start with. We recommend starting with a
2.5% concentration and waiting a few weeks to see how your skin responds;
then, if youre not seeing the results you want, move to a 5% concentration.
If your acne doesnt respond to a 5% concentration of benzoyl peroxide,
you can try the 10% concentration, but monitor your skin carefully to make
sure youre not being too harsh.
If youve been using the type of gentle skincare routine that we emphati-
cally recommend, along with a BHA exfoliant and a benzoyl peroxidebased
product for two to three months, and you still arent seeing results, the next
step is to talk to your physician about prescription options. Unfortunately,
there are some stubborn forms of acne that just do not respond to BHA and
benzoyl peroxide products.
Important note: When struggling with acne, you must be consistent with
your anti-acne skincare routine. For many, breakouts are an ongoing problem,
not a one and donetype deal. Ongoing, consistent use of anti-acne solu-
tions and an overall healthy skincare routine are required to maintain results
and keep new breakouts from forming.

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR ACNE
CLEAR Regular Strength kit ($52)
CLEAR Extra Strength kit ($52)
CLEAR Acne Body Spray ($25)
CHAPTER 14
How to Fade Post-Acne Marks
HOW DO POST-ACNE MARKS HAPPEN?

At its core, acne is a skin-aggravating condition, and, believe it or not, as
your skin responds to minimize what is taking place (your skin doesnt like
that blemish any more than you do), the response of swelling and the result-
ing pimple, just ends up making a mess of things and often results in what is
known as post-acne marks.
When a breakout occurs, it can leave behind pink-to-red or tan-to-brown
marks that linger (and linger) long after the blemish goes away.
If you have a fair to medium skin tone, youre more likely to see pink-to-red
post-acne marks. Those with medium to very dark skin tones will see tan-to-
dark brown marks dotting skins surface.
Post-acne marks, no matter their color or size, are a leftover reminder of
the battle your skin waged against a breakout. And they do seem to linger for-
ever, especially for men who are unlikely to cover it up with makeup. Thank-
fully, you can help lessen the time they hang around, and, fortunately, these
marks are rarely permanent.
LESSEN THE RISK OF GETTING POST-ACNE MARKS

BEFORE THEY HAPPEN
As long as you dont pick and over-squeeze a blemish you cannot complete-
ly control whether or not an acne breakout will leave a red area or some other
mark on skins surface, but there are some steps you can take to lessen the
odds! Here are the best steps you can take; they will make all the difference in
the world, in the short term and long term.
Use gentle, fragrance-free products that contain proven acne-fighting

ingredients. Anything you can do to be gentle helps; remember, acne cannot
be scrubbed away and it does not occur because skin is dirty. Using a gentle
cleanser, a salicylic acidbased exfoliant, and an anti-acne product containing
benzoyl peroxide, all formulated to be skin softening and soothing is the core
skincare routine you need to combat acne. Following these basic rules can
bring about dramatic improvement, including fewer post-acne marks. Again,
the key is to be consistent with your anti-acne routine!
Dont pick at your skin! If you are keen on popping that pimple (and we
understand this desire!), be sure you do it correctly (no ripping and tearing at
the surface). Other than that, leave your skin alone! The harm you do will only
make matters worse.
Stop tanning, in the sun or in tanning salons. While tanned skin might
help minimize the contrast between your skin and the acne breakouts, and
make the breakout less obvious, the damage from tanning actually will keep
the post-acne marks around even longer. It also harms skin in numerous other
ways.
Regrettably, these gold standard ingredients dont work for everyone
(though being gentle does). When your battle against acne using salicylic acid
(BHA) and benzoyl peroxide isnt going well, for you then it is absolutely nec-
essary you see a dermatologist. Searching for other products or other ingre-
dients that will help is just not usefulthere is no science to support other
options; all you will do is waste your time and your money. Seeing a derma-
tologist is the next step, especially if the type of acne you have results in large
painful blemishes.
Use additional skincare products loaded with skin-restoring ingredi-
ents, especially antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients. Our SKIN
BALANCING Super Antioxidant Concentrate and our RESIST Ultra-Light
Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum have robust weightless formulas that
contain what your skin needs to be renewed and dynamically healthy! A great
way to fight the aftermath of acne!

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR POST-ACNE RED MARKS
CLEAR Regular Strength kit ($52)
CLEAR Extra Strength kit ($52)
CLEAR Acne Body Spray ($25)
CHAPTER 15
Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots
WHAT TO DO ABOUT UNEVEN SKIN TONE, DARK

BROWN SPOTS?
Much about skincare revolves around sun protection, and we frequently
emphasize that (as if you havent already noticed) but along with sunscreen,
the other steps we strongly suggest you try are supported by a great deal of
research, which is the only kind of information we use and the only kind we
want you to rely on!
IMPROVEMENT BEGINS WITH SUNSCREEN!

Without question, the first line of defense is sun-smart behavior, which
means avoiding or, at the very least, being careful of exposure to daylight
(seeking shade, wearing sun glasses, a hat, SPF rated protective clothing) and
using a daily sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater (365 days a year, rain or shine),
and, reapplying when needed. Diligent use of a sunscreen is the core step of
any skincare routine, and even more so for someone with an uneven skin tone.
Disappointing but important fact: One day of prolonged unprotected sun
exposure can undo months of progress with a skin-brightening or skin-light-
ening product. Theres simply no room for compromise: Sun protection, skin
lighteners, and skin brighteners are a package deal. When it comes to improv-
ing uneven skin tone or dark brown discolorations, one cannot work well
without the others.
Stated bluntly: If you fail to comply with the commonsense rules of avoid-
ing sun exposure and using sunscreen, you cannot blame your skin-bright-
ening or skin-lightening product from not working. You must be willing to
commit to sunscreen to avoid persistent problems from remaining.
SKIN-LIGHTENING OPTIONS
The most effective skin-lightening products contain hydroquinone. Hy-
droquinone has been the active ingredient in over-the-counter skin-lighten-
ing products for 50+ years. It has been well-established as the most effective
ingredient for potentially fading uneven skin tone, brown or dark spots, and
for overall lightening skin. Despite this fact, it is also has a reputation for being
a controversial ingredient for skin lightening.
As always, we turn to the research to reveal why considering hydroquinone
for skin lightening is a logical approach, depending on what youre trying to
achieve. But, if you decide hydroquinone isnt the right ingredient for you,
there are alternatives, with some pretty good research behind them, for skin
brightening that you can consider.
THE HYDROQUINONE CONTROVERSY

Hydroquinones controversial reputation stems from when it was banned
in South Africa many years ago. As it turns out, the products that contained hy-
droquinone were found to also contain mercury and glucocorticoids, among
other caustic and illegal contaminants, which probably were the real cause of
the negative side effects. Unfortunately, countries in the European Union and
eventually many Asian countries followed suit, their decisions based largely
on these reports from South Africa. Yet the fact is that when properly formu-
lated, hydroquinone is not a harmful ingredient. In contrast, there is abun-
dant research showing that hydroquinone is safe and extremely effective.
Another issue is the extremely rare association between long-term use of
hydroquinone (especially in high concentrations or from adulterated prod-
ucts) and exogenous ochronosis. Ochronosis is a reaction where the skin dark-
ens in areas where the product was applied. If you are concerned about this
risk, you can turn to the alternatives to hydroquinone for skin brightening,
which we list below. If you still want to consider using hydroquinone, then be
aware there is rare risk of patches of skin darkening and you should stop using
it immediately and consult your physician immediately if you see this taking
place on your skin.
HOW HYDROQUINONE WORKS

Hydroquinone helps limit skins excessive production of the enzyme re-
sponsible for forming brown spots. Over-the-counter hydroquinone products
can contain up to 2% concentrations, and the 2% concentration is the most
effective OTC amount. By prescription only, you can get 4% concentrations of
Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots 95
hydroquinone (and sometimes higher), which can be helpful for stubborn or

advanced brown or dark spots.
The intent for topical hydroquinone is to lighten and potentially complete-
ly fade brown, dark spots, and overall discolorations. With daily use, you can
reasonably expect a hydroquinone-based skin-lightening product to produce
visible results within 23 months of consistent use (the fading takes time).
Once you reach the level of improvement you were hoping for, it is defi-
nitely an option to cut back your frequency of application to maintain results.
You cannot, however, cut back on the frequency of applying sunscreen, but
you can balance the application of your skin-lightening product.
GETTING THE BEST RESULTS FROM

HYDROQUINONE
It is essential that your hydroquinone product be packaged in opaque pack-
aging that also minimizes exposure to air. Hydroquinone is not an air stable
ingredient, and will degrade on exposure to air, which means it should not be
packaged in a jar. Once the jar is opened, it lets air in, which eventually makes
the hydroquinone lose its effectiveness.
At Paulas Choice Skincare we offer two hydroquinone products for
skin-lightening, strategically packaged for maximum results from this over-
the-counter solution.

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR SKIN LIGHTENING
RESIST Triple-Action Dark Spot Eraser 2% BHA Gel for normal to oily skin
($27)
RESIST Triple-Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% AHA Lotion for normal to dry
skin ($27)
SKIN-BRIGHTENING OPTIONS
Natural alternatives to hydroquinone include plant extracts, such as Mit-
racarpus scaber (madder) extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis
(mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper
mulberry). These are indeed good options to consider as natural skin-bright-
ening ingredients. However, it is interesting to note that all of these extracts,
when absorbed into the skin, break down into hydroquinone, which explains
why they have a positive effect.
Another natural alternative is arbutin, which also breaks down into hydro-
quinone when absorbed into skin. While these alternatives are certainly viable
options, if you are concerned about hydroquinone then this is important for
you to know.
Vitamin C (especially ascorbic acid) and niacinamide have an impressive
amount of research showing them to be effective for significantly improv-
ing an uneven skin tone and for brightening and smoothing skin. These are
skin-rescuing ingredients for many problems, but especially for uneven skin
tone.
The above-mentioned ingredients are valid considerations for those who
want to avoid hydroquinone. They also can be used with hydroquinone, a
combination that could provide even better results!
WHAT TO EXPECT FROM USING A SKIN

BRIGHTENER
The obvious and expected (and desired) result from a skin brightener is to
see brighter, more even toned, radiant-looking skin. With once- or twice-dai-
ly use of a well-formulated skin brightener (containing the ingredients men-
tioned above) along with a sunscreen, you can progressively, over time, get
pretty close to the results you want, depending on how advanced the problem
was when you started.
Just be sure to keep in mind that the brightening wont happen overnight.
While we completely understand the desire to see immediate improvement,
the truth is that it took several years of ongoing daylight exposure for the dull-
ness and uneven skin tone to show up on the surface. So, it stands to reason
you will need patience and persistence as you wait for them to fade.
Most of us will need to use a skin-brightening product every day, morning
and evening, along with daily application of a great sunscreen rated SPF 30 or
greater for at least three months before we see significant results. Some people
see results sooner, but maximum improvement and continued maintenance
is a commitment to using these products regularly. None of these products
are a cure.
Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots 97

CHOICE SKINCARE FOR DIMINISHING UNEVEN SKIN
TONE
RESIST 25% Vitamin C Spot Treatment ($55)
RESIST C15 Super Booster

The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here

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THE BEST

Copyright 2016, Paulas Choice, LLC

1. The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now..................................... 1

2. Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know...................................................15

3. What Every Skin Type Needs............................................................................25

4. Skin Type vs. Skin Concern................................................................................27

6. How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine...............................49

7. Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered................................57

8. Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out.......................................63

9. The Anti-Aging Diet...............................................................................................71

10. Managing Oily Skin................................................................................................73

11. Dry Skin.......................................................................................................................77

12. Balancing Combination Skin.............................................................................83

13. Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age)..................................87

14. How to Fade Post-Acne Marks.........................................................................91

15. Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots.......................................................................93

One of the most incredible aspects of the cosmetics industry, especially

PAULAS LIFE-CHANGING MOMENT!

JUST KNOWING INGREDIENTS ISNT ENOUGH

beneficial, or even problematic, it wasnt enough. In other words, although I

ANCIENT WISDOM WAS NOT VERY WISE

REGRETTABLY THERE ARE NO MIRACLES

THE GENESIS OF PAULAS CHOICE SKINCARE

SKIN FRUSTRATIONS ARE UNIVERSAL

As a result, I am asked the same questions wherever I go and I rarely have to

AGE, SKIN COLOR, AND RACE ARE NOT SKIN

WHAT ARE THE BEST INGREDIENTS?

WHAT ABOUT NATURAL INGREDIENTS?

DONT TRY THIS ON YOURSELF

solely on personal assessment, whether yours or someone elses, to determine

CAN YOU READ AN INGREDIENT LABEL?

WHY YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE YOUR BEST SKIN YET

NOT BEING GENTLE IS YOUR SKINS WORST ENEMY

SKINS SILENT KILLER

FRAGRANCE: SMELLS LIKE TROUBLE FOR YOUR

EVERYONE HAS SENSITIVE SKIN

DOES SKIN COLOR OR ETHNIC BACKGROUND

LIFE-LONG RULES FOR SKINCARE SUCCESS

determine what types of products or additional specialty products you need.

Antioxidants must be housed in packaging that ensures they remain effec-

One of the more confusing aspects of developing an effective skincare rou-

Products for your essential core skincare routine:

I JUST DONT UNDERSTAND MY SKIN TYPE OR MY

HOW TO DETERMINE YOUR SKIN CONCERN(S)

YOUR ESSENTIAL CORE SKINCARE ROUTINE

The basics are:

LAYERING SKINCARE PRODUCTS

There are specialty soaps with non-soapsounding names. Typically they

TONERS: DO YOU REALLY NEED ONE?

WHY LEAVE-ON EXFOLIANTS ARE SO IMPORTANT

To get the most benefit from your AHA or BHA exfoliant:

WHY YOU SHOULD USE A SERUM

WHY YOU SHOULD CONSIDER USING A BOOSTER

A MOISTURIZER BY ANY OTHER NAME

MOISTURIZERS WITH SPF: THE CORNERSTONE!

CAN YOU GET RID OF PUFFY EYES?

WHAT ABOUT DARK CIRCLES UNDER THE EYE?

Although the solutions we recommend below are worth exploring, keep in

Use a more emollient moisturizer at night to keep skin super hydrated

TARGETED SOLUTIONS OR BOOSTERS FOR

SKINCARE ROUTINES THAT PROVIDE RESULTS

THE PRODUCTS YOU NEED AND WHY

STEP 3: AHA OR BHA EXFOLIANT

STEP 4: ACNE PRODUCT (if needed)