Collinsville FFA Show Lamb Guide

Introduction

Showing can be a fun educational experience or a nightmare. It is up to you as to what you make the
experience. Show lambs are fairly low maintenance and relatively low cost compared to some other show
animals.

Cost

Show lambs generally cost around $300. Some will be cheaper depending on where they are bought and the
quality of the animal. Other lambs will cost much more, again depends on where they are purchased and the
quality of that specific animal. On average in Oklahoma an average show lamb will cost between $250-
$500. Keep in mind an average lamb generally will not win at large shows such as Tulsa, OYE, etc.

In addition to the show lamb you will need to budget for feed and other supplies such as halters, feed pans,
wormer, and general care items. This cost generally adds up to $700-$1000 depending on what brand of
feed you use, if you already have some supplies, etc.

Facility

A single lamb needs at least 40 square feet of space.

Your lamb needs access to a barn or other covered area to keep them out of harsh weather.
Ideally the North end of the covered area or barn will be enclosed as to keep out cold winter air.
Avoid keeping your lamb in a 100% enclosed barn- they need fresh air and light.
Your pen should be predator proof (as much as possible).
Keeping a radio playing (not constantly but several hours a day) will help condition your lamb(s) to
various sounds, voices, and noise in general so that when you take them to a show the various
sounds and voices will not be as stressful and distracting to the lamb(s).
Keep pen clean of any trash that could accidentally be ingested such as twine from hay bales.
Be sure your lamb is not able to access any feed other than what you provide them. If a lamb
accidentally gets into livestock feed that contains copper it can lead to death so this is very
important!

Equipment
Lambs do not require a ton of equipment. Most of the large items such as clippers can be borrowed from the
chapter however you need to plan ahead as we only have one set. Also be respectful of the amount of time
you keep these items, if you keep them for two weeks you may be keeping another member from caring for
their lamb(s). Also, any equipment you borrow is your responsibility so please care for it as if it were your
own.

Hanging feeders- plastic works best

Water bucket
Halter
Muzzle - not all lambs require a muzzle however they are great to have at shows to ensure they do
not accidentally eat something that they shouldn't. Muzzle may be required if you are holding a fall
lamb to show in the spring. Lambs tend to crib which can cause baby teeth to fall out. Some shows
require that all baby teeth be intact as this is an indicator of age.
Sheep sock and blanket
Drench gun
Poodle card/card comb (small wire brush pictured below)

Other items that are extremely useful:

Pill gun- small size
Hoof trimmers
Tools to clean pen
Syringe and needles- 6 ml syringe and 18 gauge x1 needles
Clippers/shears
Show box to keep supplies in
Extension cord
Fans - if you are showing summer/fall season
Trailer or crate to transport lamb

Local stores such as Atwoods, Tractor Supply, and Stillwater Milling carry most of these items. Other
reliable sources are:
B5 show supply
Supremeshowsupply.com
Sullivanshowsupply.com
Judyswesternwares.com
Outbacklabs.com

How to choose a lamb

To choose a lamb you need to take some things into consideration first. Begin by asking yourself the
following questions.

What are you personal goals for success?

Is your goal to have fun or to win? Either answer is acceptable but each person has a different goal.
If you just want to have fun and learn from the experience a less expensive lamb would be more practical. Is
it important that you win enough to make a profit or are you okay with loosing money?

How much are you willing to spend?

Lambs can cost up to several thousands of dollars. Determine how much you are willing to spend.
Even with a $300 lamb it is hard to make your money back after you calculate in feed and care costs. Are
you okay with loosing money? Keep in mind the more you spend on the lamb itself the less your return will
be. You also have to consider that a large percentage of show lambs are eventually sold at auction for
market price (which is not much in Oklahoma) so unless you plan to keep the lamb for breeding purposes or
spend more money upfront to purchase a registered lamb you are taking a financial risk. Registered lambs
can often be sold to breeders for a reasonable price (as long as they have good genetics) but you are still
probably not going to sell the lamb for the amount you paid initially.

What is your expected return/profit?

Tulsa County does not offer a premium sale. If your friends show in neighboring counties you may
have heard how they made the premium sale and received anywhere from $500- several thousand dollars.
Without a premium sale it is practically impossible to earn a profit through showing livestock in Tulsa
County. It is important to understand that you will most likely lose money. If you manage to break even that
would be considered a success.

Competition level?
The competition will vary from show to show. If you plan to compete in state fairs, OYE, and
jackpots you will face some very competitive livestock and showmen. If you only show at our local shows
(Skiatook, Sperry, Owasso, Tulsa Co.) you will compete against the same livestock all season and while the
competition is tough it will not be on the same level as the larger shows (fewer people so less competition).
Realistically, you never know until you arrive what you will competing against you arrive at the show. The
4th place lamb two weeks ago may win this week because the owner spent the time between shows
improving their lamb.
 What type of lamb? Ewe or wether? What breed?
There is no right or wrong choice here. Sometimes ewes win over wethers and other times it is the
exact opposite. The main thing to consider is what type of show will you be competing in? Some shows
place ALL lambs regardless of whether they are male or female in a market class. Market means we are
looking for usable product in terms of muscle, other shows divide males and females into market and
breeding classes. The other thing that is important to keep in mind is; while there is an ideal type of lamb
each judge has their own opinion and their own style of lamb that they prefer. We do not always know who
is judging and you will see a different judge at almost every show you attend so there is no secret recipe to
choosing the perfect lamb that will suit every judge. If you want to retain your animal for breeding you need
to choose a ewe. If you plan to sell your lamb or just keep it as pet a wether may be the best choice. In
general, regardless of ewe or wether choose a lamb that is structurally correct. Muscle can be added with
feed and exercise but we cannot change a lambs structure.
Breed is also up to you. There is not one breed that supersedes the other, choose the breed
you like. The only thing you need to consider when it comes to breeds is choose one that is common in
Oklahoma such as Suffolk, Hampshire, Natural, etc. The reason is there MUST be AT LEAST 3 (THREE)
lambs of the same breed to make a class. A scenario is if I buy a Rambouillet ewe to show and no one else
at the show has a Rambouillet I would have to show in the crossbred class. However, if two other people
have Rambouillet sheep and are at the same show then there would three which would make a class. Again,
just choose something common so you are not always in the cross class UNLESS you want to show cross
class.

Lamb age.
For junior livestock shows lambs are generally between 4 and 12 months old while they are being
shown. Most shows have requirements regarding weight limits and many require the lamb to have all its
baby teeth intact. Again, you need to consider what types of shows you plan to attend and review the rules
for those shows regarding age and teeth.

How do I purchase my lamb?

There are several options to purchase a lamb. The first thing you should know is Mrs. Hamlin will NOT
purchase your lamb. You need to be happy with the lamb you have so it is important that you are the person
who ultimately chooses the lamb. Many of you probably know someone who gives their teacher a blank
check and a few days later they have an animal, Mrs. Hamlin will never do this as it leaves room for lots of
questions regarding the price of the lamb.

Option 1: Lamb Sales- there are lamb sales nation wide at various times of the year. The majority of the
sales are held May-July and again in late fall/early winter. At these sales there will be a variety of lambs for
you to compare. Some sales are held by individuals while other are held by groups. These sales are usually
auctions where the lamb is sold to the highest bidder.
Option 2: Online Sales- Online sales are becoming very popular as you can view and purchase from popular
breeders without driving hours to their farm. While these are popular I would not recommend buying an
animal without seeing it in person unless you know the breeder is a respected breeder.

Option 3: Private Treaty- This option requires you to seek out a breeder and contact them. Once you speak
to them and determine they have the type of lamb you want within your price range you would set up a time
to meet them and view the lambs.

Option 4: Tulsa Lambs- MANY people in Oklahoma purchase lambs at Tulsa State Fair. Often times the
lambs at Tulsa are an age that they can be held until Spring and still be the appropriate age to show. If this is
the route you take you would need to have cash in hand and have an idea how much you want to spend.
When you see a lamb you like you can approach the owner and ask if they are willing to sell at the end of
the show. A large portion of lambs go on the trailer at Tulsa and are either taken to a sale barn or
slaughter house because the owners do not want to take the lamb back home. The people who choose to put
their lamb on the trailer are only getting market price for their animal so if you are willing to pay a little
over market price you can usually get a fairly nice lamb (that already knows how to lead and brace) for
much less than what you would pay at most lamb sales. You will also need to be sure to get release papers
from the owner otherwise you will not be able to leave the fairgrounds with the lamb.

Mrs. Hamlin is happy to help you choose a lamb but will not handle the money for the sale. Mrs. Hamlin
also cannot travel out of state to sales or to pick up purchased animals.

Things to look for when selecting a lamb

Structural correctness- look for heavy bone, level top, and level hip. Watch how the lamb walks, does it drag
its feet or walk pigeon-toed? Ideally we want a lamb that stands and walks wide. Pay special attention to
pasterns, if they flex excessively this can be an issue. Avoid lambs that drag feet, have weak pasterns, turn
hocks in or out while walking, or cannot walk smoothly.
Muscle- Muscle is one of the three main factors that determines how competitive your lamb will be. While
we can add muscle through proper feeding and exercise the lamb needs to possess the proper structure to
support the muscle. Look for lambs that have a wide base. A narrow based lamb cannot support the same
amount of muscle growth as a wide based lamb for one and two a narrow based lamb would look
unproportional with a lot of muscle. Also look at the rear leg muscle. Look for muscle that travels down the
leg and adds depth to the muscle rather than muscle that stays in the hip/high leg area. Muscle depth and
width are both important.

Volume- in addition to muscle depth and width we need to consider overall body volume and capacity
especially in the rib area. Lambs with deeper bodies and more spring to their rib tend to eat and grow
better than shallow bodied lambs. You do not want a lamb that is wasty in the middle either. The ideal
show lamb is not shallow bodied or wasty, instead they are somewhere in the middle where they possess
enough shape and capacity to obtain the show lamb look without being overweight. The best comparison I
can use to help you get a visual is to think about a bodybuilder, an athlete, and a moderately overweight
person. A bodybuilder is to extreme (shallow bodied, excessively tight muscles) and the overweight person
has fat that covers the existing muscle and therefore we cannot see/feel the muscle (wasty). The athlete
however should have a moderate amount of muscle and a proportional amount of fat. Look for the athlete
lamb with body shape and definition.

Style, balance, potential- Some animals have a natural style to them. This style is what gives them the
show look and is often referred to as being flashy. The lamb needs to have appropriate amounts of both
structure and muscle to get the ideal style and balance that equates a show look. Too much muscle and not
enough structure throws off the balance of the overall appearance of the lamb. As far as potential is
concerned, genetics play a huge role in how quickly a lamb will gain weight/muscle and how large they will
grow overall. While lambs should be fed to their full potential you need to consider the end result. Smaller
exhibitors should look for lambs that will not be massive while larger or more experienced exhibitors may
want to opt for a lamb that has a lot of growth potential and will be quite large by the end of the show
season.

This is a nice lamb. Notice the muscle, wide stance, depth of body. This is a small framed lamb though,
while it may win its class or even breed it is so small that it most likely will not win overall champion. Also
note that this lamb is fairly short so taller people would have to work a little harder to show this lamb.

Another very nice lamb, more size than the one above. Again proportionate, deep bodied. This one does not
have the width of the lamb above which is not necessarily a deal breaker. This lamb is fairly large so smaller
showmen may want to avoid a lamb this size unless they are experienced and have the strength to brace a
lamb this size effectively.
Again, very nice deep body. Wide stance and fills his stance. Big enough frame to support his width and
depth.

Not a bad lamb BUT he need more muscle in his lower rear leg and has a weak back (if you look closely it
curves). The back could be corrected by bracing him correctly, this is a pretty small lamb for a tall girl.
This wether needs more muscle, especially in the rear of his body. He has strong shoulders and deep ribs
but he needs more depth in his flank and more rear leg muscle to balance him out.

Showmans error, this lamb could look better but the girl has her neck cranked back which is making the
lamb look super tall in the front.

Feeding

Lambs need water, protein, fat, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins. I like to compare feeding show
animals to feeding professional athletes, they need a balanced and consistent diet to get the results you need.

There are numerous brands of feed you can use. The number one thing is choose a SHOW feed such as
Mormans, Charmasson, Honor, etc. You CANNOT feed all-stock or the run of the mill lamb feed from
Atwoods and expect show quality results. Show feeds are formulated to provide the essential nutrients
needed however every lamb is different so feed needs to be chosen based on each lambs needs.

All feeds will have a tag on the bag that details the nutrient information. Things to look for on the tag is
protein, fat, fiber, minerals, and vitamins.
Protein should range from 15%-18%. Protein supplies the amino acids needed to grow and develop muscles.
Some lambs have more natural muscle and need a feed with lower protein (15%) while others may require
18%.

Fat generally ranges from 2.5%- 4%. Fat and carbohydrates provide energy. Again, depending on your
lambs needs you will need to choose a feed that has an appropriate amount of fat and carbohydrates. Often
in winter months or as you near shows we up the amount of fat/carbs to either A) maintain a healthy fat
level through winter or B) add cover before a show.

Fiber usually ranges from 15%-19%. Sheep are ruminant animals and MUST have fiber for their stomachs
to function properly.

Minerals and vitamins will be very similar in all feeds. Regardless of which feed you choose things such as
calcium, phosphorus, salt, selenium, vitamin A, vitamin D, and vitamin E which are all needed for general
health.

Some feeds will contain decoquinate, monensin, or coccidiostat which help prevent certain common
illnesses in lambs. If your feed contains certain medications you will need a VFD from your vet to purchase
the feed.

MOST show feeds do not have a withdrawal time (amount of time needed for medication to leave the body
before slaughter is allowed) however it is important that you check if you plan to have the lamb slaughtered.
It is YOUR responsibility to be sure withdrawal times are met before your lamb goes to slaughter.

Feeding, Fitting, General Tips

Full feed is 3.5% of the lambs weight. So if your lamb weighs 100 pounds it should be eating 1.75 pounds
of feed in the morning and 1.75 pounds in the evening. This is what you would feed to GROW your lamb.
2% is considered maintenance ration. This is what you feed when you want to hold the lamb. This method
is used when your lamb grows to fast or maybe you buy a Tulsa Lamb and want to hold it until November
or December before you start pushing with full feed to obtain a fresh look for the spring show season.
Feed may need to be adjusted to fit specific needs of the animal. If you use supplements you will need to
feed according to the instructions.

Sheep need roughage. A large double handful (about of a flake) of good quality hay each evening will
satisfy the need for roughage. Alfalfa can be fed but must be fed carefully. Roughage is needed to keep the
lamb's stomach functioning properly and can help add rib shape.
Feed consistently. If possible feed at the same time each morning and each evening or as close to that time
as possible. This means on Saturday you shouldnt sleep until noon and feed at noon. If you feed at 7 am
Monday-Friday feed as close to 7 am as possible on Saturday and Sunday as well. If you feed at 7 am
Monday-Friday your lamb gets used to eating at that time, if you wait until 10 am to feed on Saturday then
your lamb will be pacing the fence waiting on feed and will burn more calories than what they are getting in
their feed so it defeats the purpose of feeding that day. The more consistent you are with feeding the better
your lamb will grow. Think about how you get in a routine of eating at the same time at school each day.
Your body adjusts and if you dont eat at that time you feel extremely hungry.

Split feed into two rations. If you lamb needs 1.5 pounds of feed per day feed half ( of a pound) in the
morning the other half in the evening. By splitting the feed you will have better growth and feed efficiency.

NEVER skip a feeding.

Every animal is different so feeding programs may need to be adjusted. Some things that do help with a
feeding program are listed below.

Drenches- several available to fit your lambs needs

Feed Shoberts Oxi-pop for the 90 days leading up to your major shows

Keep CLEAN water available at all times. Sheep are picky drinkers so this is important. If they are not
drinking enough they cannot produce enough muscle.

Electrolytes are your friend so USE THEM! Start adding electrolytes to water at home at least one to two
days before the show, the day of the show, and the day after to help them recover. There are numerous
options/brands- choose the one that fits your price range and is easy to get.

Keep your lamb warm! In the winter months animals need warmth to continue to grow. If they are cold they
burn all their nutrients trying to stay warm. Sheep socks, heat lamps, and proper penning will keep your
lamb warm. IF you use HEAT LAMPS be sure to put them out of the lambs reach and be sure the cord is
out of reach. Lambs have been the cause of burned barns because they chewed on the cord and caused the
lamp to short or pulled the light down.

Fitting your lamb starts at home. While they do not need regular baths it is important you introduce them to
bathing so they do not panic at a show. The cleaner you keep your pen the less work you will have to do
when it comes time to fit. Sheep generally do not like water so you must start this at home.

ALWAYS wash your lamb before shearing. This ensures you get a better cut on the wool, that you do not
destroy the clippers, and you will not cause as much skin irritation. Think about when you get a haircut- if
your hair is a mess you will not be as happy with the final result.
Use surgical or fine blades on the clippers.

Each lamb has a different wool pattern so sometimes we have to adjust the direction we clip but in general
you should always start clipping on the non-show side (the lambs left side) and work your way around.

It is best to clip at least one day prior to the show. This is not always possible but make an effort to have
lambs sheared before the day of the show. During the shearing process lambs are often left with red marks,
small scrapes, etc. If you shear the day of the show these marks do not have time to go away. However, by
shearing the day before or even 2-3 days before your lamb will not have the red marks and you will be able
to take your time and get a better cut.

Some shows have different rules regarding how short wool must be, how far down the legs must be sheared,
etc so be sure to check those requirements beforehand.

If you lamb has bald spots on its knees it is not the end of the world. It more of an eyesore than anything but
it should not affect how your lamb places in class. However, if you want to try to correct this there are many
products such as leg shag you can use to help increase hair/wool growth on legs. You can also make a 50/50
mix of water and rubbing alcohol and heavily spray the bald area 1-2 times a day for 2 days, on the third day
wash the legs and CONDITION them heavily. Repeat until you achieve the results you want or it becomes
obvious that this is not working (it isnt 100% foolproof but it usually helps at least some).

Medications

Wormer- Lambs need to be wormed to maintain overall health and growth. There are several brands of
wormer. My personal recommendation is Valbazen, Cydectin, and Ivomec. Choose at least two wormers
(three is better) and use them in a rotation. By rotating the brand you use the parasites are not able to
become immune to the wormer. If you only use one brand all year it will eventually stop being effective.
The BEST way to determine which wormer you need to have your vet test the lambs fecal matter and they
can tell you exactly what parasites are present and what medication to give.

Penicillin- this is handy to have for runny noses, cuts, and other minor injuries or illnesses. While it may not
100% treat the problem it may help provide relief until a vet can get to you.

Aureomycin- another useful item to help treat minor coughs, runny noses, etc. This comes in a feed form so
you can simply add it to their feed rather than give an injection.

B-12- useful for boosting appetite in sick sheep and improving overall health.

Probios- this paste comes in a tube and helps restore gut health. Useful for stressed or ill lambs.
Appetite Express- another option for lambs who are not eating well. Boosts appetite.

Fluid film/ Show safe/etc(many, many products for this)- for wool fungus. Wool fungus is an infection
which often affects show lambs and can even spread to humans. It is important to wash your lamb and tools
such as clippers after shows or use something such as fluid film or show safe to kill the infection. There are
other brands out there and they all work so find one you like and use it. Use as a preventative and you
should not have issues, however if your lamb does end up with fungus it cannot go to a show until the
fungus has cleared as it is considered infectious/contagious. Choose a product and use it- after each show
you should wash your lamb and spray them with a fungicide to prevent them from contracting fungus. Every
single time your lamb leaves your house you are exposing it to fungus so be proactive rather than reactive.

Common illnesses to watch for

Enterotoxemia- also known as overeating disease. Generally caused by changes in feeding. Most breeders
vaccinate for this however if you are not sure if your lamb has been vaccinated you can discuss options with
your vet. Another way to help avoid this if you are unsure is avoid rapid feed changes, ease lambs into a
new feeding regimen. For example, when you buy a lamb ask what feed they are on and start mixing that
feed with the brand/type you plan to use and slowly start mixing more and more of the brand you intend to
feed over a period of about two weeks.

Worms- all livestock are susceptible to worms. Use wormer as directed by label (each brand is a little
different) and use a rotation of brands as listed above in the medication section.

Urinary calculi- male lambs are susceptible to a metabolic disease which causes calcium stones to form in
the urinary tract. Most feeds are formulated with ammonium chloride to help prevent this however it can
still occur. Watch for restlessness, kicking at the belly, and lack of urination. If you notice these symptoms
you need to contact a vet ASAP. Ammonium Chloride can also be added to drinking water as a preventative
if this is an issue.

Coccidiosis- this in an infection in the intestines. It causes weakness, scours, bloody scours, weight loss, and
dehydration. Some lambs will also exhibit fever. This can lead to death if not treated quickly. Most feeds
contain a coccidiostat for prevention however just as with everything else it can still affect your animal. One
option for treatment is amprolium 9.6% drench which you should be able to find at most feed stores. After
initial treatment follow up with probios to help re-establish appetite and restore gut health.

Ringworm/ Staph/ Fungus- these are all becoming more and more common. It is important that you
occasionally check your lamb for these infections. Long wool often disguises these issues and you discover
them just before a show. After you shear be sure to keep a clean sock/blanket on (in cool/cold weather) and
if the sock/blanket gets wet (rain, snow, etc) remove it and dry the lamb thoroughly and put a clean, dry
sock/blanket back on. If you notice any skin infections contact your vet and address it immediately, it will
only get worse without treatment and can cause other issues when left untreated. Not to mention all three of
these can be transmitted to humans so it is important that you wash your hands very well after handling an
infected lamb. Lastly, you need to understand that every time you take your lamb to a show, vet, etc you are
exposing them to skin infections. This is another reason to shear at home before the show, this allows small
cuts and scrapes time to scab over so they are less likely to be the cause of a skin infection. Open/fresh cuts
at a show create a perfect storm so to speak and increases your odds of contracting a skin infection. Use one
of a preventative sprays listed in medications should help prevent this.

Clean the clippers, stand, etc after each use especially if you are sharing with another person. This will
greatly reduce the chances of spreading fungus and other illnesses that will prevent you from showing.

Day-to-Day Care and Training

Your lamb needs attention EVERY day.
Your lamb should receive food and hay EVERY day and water should be checked.
Lambs NEED exercise. Think of this- you walk around at school all day but you have an average
amount of muscle. If you work out in addition to your normal daily routine and monitor what you eat
you will begin to have MORE visible muscle. The same goes for your lamb, they have muscle but in
order to highlight it they need to EXERCISE. Exercise may mean you have to feed a little more than
normal but it is worth it! Think of your show animals as athletes, they need to work those muscles at
least 4-5 times a week.
There are various ways to implement exercise regimens. Some people have walkers that go on a
fourwheeler, some have treadmills, some just jog the lamb up and down a hill. Find something that
fits your schedule and budget and implement it. Another small thing is placing the lambs food and
water on opposite sides of the pen with a board in the middle where they are forced to jump over
when they want one or the other, this is not enough for an exercise regimen but it will help and can
reduce the amount of walking/jogging time they need.

If you buy a lamb that is not trained you will need to teach it to lead and brace.
Start with leading, tie the lamb to a fence with nothing around for them to hurt themselves on. You should
STAY with your lamb. It will most likely fight and pull on the halter trying to get away. Let it fight for a
little while then untie and take it to its pen. Repeat this every day until they stop fighting the halter and lead
without a fight. Each day leave them tied to the fence a little longer than you did the day before.
When you start leading the lamb remember to stand beside them as you lead. They have a natural instinct to
pull away when you pull on them especially if you are standing in front of them (fight or flight).
To teach a lamb to brace you have options. My personal go to is to put the lamb on something such as a
porch that drops off. Some people use a clipping stand but that is quite risky so I would not recommend it.
You will stand in front of your lamb and push into them like you are bracing- they will back up at first.
Continue pushing until they step off the edge of the porch, this scares them as they think they are falling and
they will start to push back or brace. This is the hardest part and you may have to repeat this over the course
of several days/weeks. You can use a trailer for this as well, just choose something that is stable so you do
not injure yourself and something that is not too high off the ground so your lamb will not get hurt if they do
back over the ledge and fall. You can also back them into water, they generally do not like water and will
push away from it.

Once your lamb is trained to push back you can work on making them set up correctly (feet placement, level
back, head). Work at home on this- if you have to stand braced for 10 minutes in the show ring and you and
your lamb are only used to standing for 1-2 minutes at home it will be a struggle.

Washing is an essential. Take your time and wash correctly, wash under the legs, clean ears without getting
water in the ears. If you do not wash correctly you will have to re-wash after you shear and you will dull the
clippers.

After washing THOROUGHLY dry the lamb- wet wool does not clip well.

After clipping I recommend using a conditioner of some sort (again many options, choose something you
like) and rinsing the lamb well. When we remove the wool we are removing the natural lanolin that
conditions the lambs skin.

WINNING STARTS AT HOME- you cannot expect your animal to learn how to act the day of the show.
The amount of effort you put it shows in the ring.

Show season:
Technically there is no show season anymore. There are many avenues to take to show so there are
livestock shows year-round in todays time. As for FFA every chapter does things a little different. Some
only show in Fall, others only show in Spring, some show both.

Mrs. Hamlin is fine with you showing all year however it is important that you understand that FFA shows
and Jackpots are different. Jackpots are like joining a summer ball team so those are 100% up to you and are
YOUR responsibility. You do not have to be in FFA to show at Jackpots. It is important that you understand
that showing is optional and you chose to show, this is YOUR SAE project. Some students choose Rodeo as
their SAE, you chose to show. As for SHOW SEASON at Collinsville. I would prefer you choose to show
in the spring, you will have more shows to attend this way. It can be hard to keep show animals in
Oklahoma through summer months unless you have very nice facilities and you really only have three FFA
shows (Tri-County, Tulsa Free Fair, and Tulsa State Fair) in the Fall. In the spring we have the Owasso,
Sperry, Skiatook, Tulsa County, and OYE at the least some years Cleveland or another nearby school will
host a show as well.
If you attend OYE you are responsible for your rooms, meals, etc. Again this is YOUR SAE, those who
rodeo for their SAE do not get hotel rooms and meals paid for when they compete so we cant pay for yours.
Also, parents generally stay with you at OYE and we CANNOT pay for rooms that parents are staying in
out of the activity fund. OYE is also on Spring Break (2018 is an exception) so you would have to give up
Spring Break plans to attend.
A few quick tidbits:

Find a local veterinarian and develop a relationship with them. You will need them when your animal is sick
or if you want to buy medicated feed. As of December 2016 we are required to have a VFD from a vet
before we can purchase medicated feed. This is something you need to do, Mrs. Hamlin cannot do this. A
VFD allows us to track who is using medicated feed and how much.

Mrs. Hamlin will not give medication to your animal or perform medical procedures. While this used to be
normal it is now a quick way to lose my job. Just a few years ago (2013/2014 ish) a teacher was fired for
castrating an animal. While we know how to perform many of the procedures we are not licensed
veterinarians and can get in BIG trouble for this so again find a vet you like and use them. If your animal
was housed on school grounds there would be some leeway as far as giving medication but we do not have a
school farm (yet) so it is important you befriend a vet! You can perform procedures (castrating, docking,
etc) on YOUR animals but when you do so on animals that are not yours is when you open yourself up for
trouble.

If you plan to show and need Mrs. Hamlin to haul your animal- A) you must have an accessible driveway,
we only have a 24 foot trailer and there are some driveways that are just too small/narrow for me to navigate
B) I need to be able to turn around once in your driveway, again some places are just not designed for a
trailer this size C) I need a HEADS UP, I will haul to and from shows but PLEASE let me know in advance
so I can plan. Oftentimes shows start after school so I will stay at school (this way we do not have to pay a
substitute) and leave for the show as soon as my last class is over, if you decide at 9 am you want/need me
to take you I may not be able to get a substitute so that I can. D) We share the truck with band, if you need
me to haul you I must know ahead of time. Even then I cannot guarantee that I will have access to the truck.

WORK AT HOME! I cannot stress this enough! Your success is determined by how much work you do at
home with your animal.