ramon morat

chocolate
 ramon morat

FROM THE AESTHETIC POINT OF VIEW, GOOD TASTE IS SOMETHING WE ARE BORN WITH. AND, IN MY OPINION, IT IS PRECISELY THIS VIRTUE
THE ONE THAT CHARACTERIZES RAMN MORAT AND HIS WORK.
THIS BOOK IS A GOOD EXAMPLE NOT ONLY IN TERMS OF A GOOD AESTHETIC WORK, BUT ALSO BECAUSE IT GOES DEEP INTO THE MOST TECH-
NICAL ASPECT OF OUR TRADE -SOMETHING NOT DONE BEFORE-, WHY WE DO WHAT WE DO, AND MAKING PROGRESS IN THE DEVELOPMENT
OF A DIFFERENT TASTE, IN A MORE ORGANOLEPTIC SENSE.
FROM BREAKFASTS AND SNACKS TO THE MOST SOPHISTICATED RECIPES, HE DESIGNS DIFFERENT PROPOSALS WHICH UNDOUBTEDLY
MAKE THIS BOOK ONE OF THE FEW ESSENTIAL ONES FOR PROFESSIONALS.

Enric Rovira
Chef Chocolatier
 There is a need in this professional sector for a book consisting of a rig-
over 600 pages
orous, in-depth study of chocolate, in all its manifestations and vari-
230 recipes ants. The authors aim when writing this extensive work was to give
step-by-step photographs of the most important preparation techniques equal importance to the results obtained from all the research he
15 breakfasts and snacks made and all the technological aspects in general, as well as to the
8 drinking chocolates numerous recipes that have been included, and which contain the
4 jams
18 individual cakes
minutest details. The perfect balance between theory and practice is
24 bonbons what makes this book so successful.
10 turrons And who better than Ramon Morat to carry out such a monumental
5 snacks task, thanks to his extensive experience, his capacity for hard work,
8 desserts for restaurant his strong sense of dedication as well as orderliness, the high stan-
7 petit fours and 8 bonbons for restaurant
Studies on mousses, truffles, fillings, raw materials and all the information
dards he sets himself, his talent and creativity, and, above all, the pas-
about the most important techniques in chocolate making. sion he feels for his job - because here is a man enamored of his pro-
description fession.

Alberto Ruiz Vicente

Project Manager of Grupo Vilbo

The book is divided into six extensive sections:

CHOCOLATE AS A PRODUCT, BREAKFASTS & SNACKS, CONFECTIONERY, CHOCOLATE MAKING, RESTAURANT AND RAW MATERIALS
 DRINKING CHOCOLATE 5. CH (CHOCOLATES) PRE-CRYSTALLIZATION OR TEMPERING OF CHOCOLATE
THEORY THE COATING AND MOLDING PROCESS

contents Thick chocolate

Liquid single-variety chocolate
Liquid aniseed-coffee chocolate
Mango-milk
Earl grey tea with keffir lime
MAIN ASPECTS WHEN PREPARING FILLING
MAIN FILLING CATEGORIES

CARAMEL
Milk chocolate couverture caramel mou and salted butter
COMMON FAULTS DURING THE COATING OR MOLDING PROCESS
CANDY
STORAGE OF PRODUCT
COMMON FAULTS ENCOUNTERED IN BONBONS

Chocolate brandy caramel LIQUOR BONBONS 6. R (RESTAURANT)

Mandarin aniseed cinnamon FONDANT
Cardamom honey lemon After eucalyptus DESSERTS
TRUFFLE OR GANACHE Black rice with truffle
1. PROLOGS JAMS AND CREAMS Dark truffle oval with liquid bergamot Block of foie with chocolate, fried corn and apricot
THEORY Balsamic bonbon Baked apple, crumble, milk chocolate couverture and malt
QUIM CAPDEVILA Strawberry, chocolate and vinegar jam Lime truffle Pinus
RAFAEL VIL Mango, passion fruit and gianduja jam Roses and mandarin Cereal energy bar
ALBERTO RUIZ Banana, chocolate and Jamaica jam Milk truffle with Papantla vanilla Xocolatl
RAMON MORAT Chocolate, caramel and hazelnut cream Praline and armagnac emulsion Berries, mascarpone and dark chocolate couverture
Vinegar reduction and mango Lychee, elder flower, cocoa pulp
4. P (PASTRIES & CAKES) Passion caramel
2. INTRODUCTION PETIT FOURS
BUTTER-BASED FILLINGS
INTRODUCTION Malt butter Effervescent salt fruit tablet
THE HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE A STUDY ON CHOCOLATE MOUSSES Lime and licorice marshmallow
MARZIPAN
WHAT IS CHOCOLATE? STUDY OF THE TRUFFLE USED FOR MAKING CAKES AND PASTRIES Hazelnut milk ice lolly with hazelnut praline
Catalan crme brle
FROM COCOA TO CHOCOLATE Banana, passion fruit and chocolate ice lolly
Walnuts, cardamom and lemon
Origin CAKES Rough honey peanut and curry candy
Candied pistachio marzipan with milk gianduja and ginger
Main cocoa producing countries Lavender Dairy ice cream and cocoa fiber cookie
NOUGA?
Cocoa processing Adhara Chocolate hamburger
Pistachio-honey and salted peanut nougat
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT PRODUCT Coco-choco and passion fruit STUDY OF BONBONS USED IN RESTAURANTS
FRUIT PASTES
Products used in this book and their main characteristics Stollen In & Out
Passion fruit and licorice
Calculation to substitute the kind of couverture to be used Cereals yoghurt and jade PRALINES AND GIANDUJAS
Purchasing, acquiring and preserving chocolate CHM4 7. RAW MATERIALS
Caramelized almond praline with vanilla
How to use chocolate Mango, milk and hazelnut Saffron orange and hazelnut praline
White chocolate, juniper and lemon Salt cinnamon and pine nut praline SUGARS
3. AM.PM Black forest FATS
Caramel and speculaas liquid caramel
Pinus Coffee gianduja with green aniseed croquant DAIRY PRODUCTS
BREAKFASTS AND SNACKS Ooooocumare EGG PRODUCTS
Crunchy almond with coffee and orange
CHOCOLATE IN BAKED PRODUCTS Peach and bergamot tea NUTS
Puff pastry strip with cocoa and quick apple tatin FLOUR
TURRONS
Honey-salt and peanut brownie INDIVIDUAL CAKES STARCH
Three origins
Cinnamon cookie, crunchy hazelnut praline with salt and dark chocolate Lemon-thyme and apricot sacher GELATIN
Pine nut caramel and crunchy coffee cookie
truffle Mint, licorice and orange-tree flower ADDITIVES
Milk chocolate truffle with peppermint
Baked pear, milk chocolate truffle and mascarpone flan Walnut milk and milk couverture Hazelnut praline and dry sponge cake
Cocoa sponge coca, chocolate cream and banana Savarin with cocoa, strawberries, vinegar and mascarpone 8. GENERAL CONDITIONS OF HYGIENE
Gianduja fried almond and salt
Four quarters of chocolate and candy Chestnuts, milk and mellow wine Almond praline with caramelized nibs
Chocolate with yoghurt and strawberry Turron, whisky and chocolate tigretton 9. INDEX RECIPES
Walnuts with walnuts and mature rum
Crunchy cinnamon-lemon-milk cookie
Nut mosaic
Chocolate kouglof OTHER DESSERTS Smoked whisky disk
Kouign Amann BASIC RECIPES
Frozen bonbons
Malt, gianduja and orange sponge cake Chocolate creme caramel RECIPE INDEX IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER
SNACKS
Dry biscuit with Jamaica pepper, milk and raspberry Wholemeal sponge cake with chocolate mousse, goat yoghurt and Puffed rice bar with lemon and gin
Chocolate and mango orange Hazelnut and tonka bean bar
Grilled brioche 10. BIOGRAPHY
Glass of carrot-jade and orange-breton with bay leaf Honey-caramel and lemon bar
Petit choux
Drages
11. ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Hazelnut, gianduja and cookie drage
Lyo-opal-coconut raspberry drage
12. MAKING OFF
CHOCOLATE AS A PRODUCT, BREAKFASTS & SNACKS

am.pm
Jam is a fruit and sugar solution that is concentrated by evaporating
breakfasts and snacks the fruit water until a thick gel is obtained. This effect is produced by

drinking chocolate the pectin contained in the fruit and an acid which allows this gelling.

jams and creams During the preparation of chocolate jams, couverture or cocoa pro-
ducts are added at the end and an emulsion is made from the chocola-
te fat and remaining water from the jam.

Drinking chocolate is a simple product to make.

We will concentrate above all on being able to offer a selection of different types of drinking chocolate.
CONFECTIONERY

p
The relevant criteria for creating cakes and pastries are the following:
cakes texture, taste, format of the product and preservation.

individual cakes We have used sponge cakes with or without couverture or chocolate, and

other desserts with a cocoa powder base.

On the whole, we can say that the richer the sponge cake is in fat content, the
more difficult it will be for us to hydrate it. This is the reason why some sponge
cakes which appear in this book are hydrated after coming out of the oven,
while they are still hot.

...not only is it important to use good-quality natural vanilla, but that our
customers must be aware that our products contain vanilla. Otherwise, our
efforts will have been in vain.
CHOCOLATE MAKING

ch
What is soft caramel?
bonbons What is a fondant?

turrons What is a truffle or ganache?

What are butter-based fillings?

snacks What is marzipan?

What is nougat?
Fruit pastes
Pralines and giandujas

One of the causes of the lack of gloss in bonbons is a bad conditioning of the
temperature in the room where the coating or molding is carried out.
RESTAURANT

R
There is no need to preserve bonbons in restaurants for such long periods of
desserts time as in cake shops; moreover, the product is always consumed on the

petit fours premises. This factor poses an advantage for us.

RAW MATERIALS

MP
The sensation of sweetness of each sweetener is different and varies
sugars according to concentration in a syrup, temperature and pH. Therefore, it was

fats decided by tasting panels and international agreement that sucrose should be
the reference sugar with a sweetening power of 100.

dairy products Fats contribute to fixing products aroma and flavor. They help preserve tender

egg products products such as financier-like dough or some Centro-European preparations

as Stollen covered in butter once baked in order to protect it from the air and

nuts lengthen its preservation.

flour Nowadays, the use of fresh eggs is more and more restricted in
confectionery. This is why, in all the recipes included in this book, we have

starch decided to use pasteurized whites, yolks and eggs.

gelatin Almost all nuts have a common feature: their low content of water or
moisture and their high fat content, with a few exceptions such as chestnut.
additives Native starch: It is a blending and thickening agent of all kinds of creams and
sauces.

The strength of the gelatin depends on how concentrated it is and on its

gelling power, which is measured in Bloom degrees.
The higher the Bloom degree, the stronger the gel will be, even though the
amount of gelatin used is the same.

I do not intend to defend the use of additives but will simply point out that it is
sometimes ignorance that makes us feel doubtful about something, and even
though we now use pectin, citric acid and colorings as a matter of course in
our profession, this does not change the fact that they are additives and
therefore officially represented by the letter 'E', followed by a number.

GENERAL CONDITIONS OF HYGIENE

The harmful effect on a person's health derived from ingesting contaminated

food may be of different origin. It may be caused by biological dangers (for
example, Salmonella in eggs), chemical dangers (when we use a higher dose
of an additive than the one permitted) and physical dangers (the presence of a
piece of nutshell).