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H a nb ok A dva nc e me nt C e nt e r, a n a f f i l i at e d
organization of Korea Craft and Design Foundation
(KCDF), is established as a public institution of the
Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Korea.
The center is aiming at restoring the unique identity
of hanbok as the center of traditional culture, and
enhancing its competitiveness in a way that meet and
harmonize with modern needs and trends. Hanbok
has been a part of the lives of Koreans for about
5,000 years, and is characterized by the beauty of
abundance and softly flowing curved lines. The
Story of Hanbok is planned and written in order to
help wearing hanbok properly and beautifully, and is
well organized for the readers in a variety of cultures
to easily understand. Hopefully, this writing can
serve as a guide for the readers to fully appreciate the
grace and elegant beauty of hanbok .
The Story of Hanbok
TITLE THE STORY OF HANBOK
PUBLISHER CHOI JEONG CHEOL, HANBOK ADVANCEMENT CENTER
ADDRESS 10F YULGOK-RO 53 JONGNO-GU SEOUL 110-240 SEOUL KOREA
TEL 82-2-739-0505
FAX 82-2-739-0330
HOMEPAGE www.hanbokcenter.kr
3
01
The
Esthetics
of Lines,
Hanbok
4
1. The Beauty of Hanbok in
the Elegant Flow of Lines
For about 5000 years, the basic format of hanbok, Korean traditional
clothes, has more or less remained the same, while its forms or types
have seen changes with culture, situations and the aesthetic
consciousness of the times. The type of hanbok that we are familiar
with, which is composed of relatively tight tops and loose bottoms or
skirts, dates back to the mid and late Joseon Dynasty which was the
last dynasty in Korean history (1392~1910).
Mens hanbok is basically composed of baji (pants), jeogori
(Korean-style short jacket), jokki (vest) and po (outer coat), waist and
ankle straps for baji , beoseon (Korean-style socks) and shoes. Womens
hanbok is comprised of sokbaji (inner pants), sokchima (inner skirt),
sokjeoksam (inner shirt), jeogori , po, beoseon and shoes. Accessories
for hanbok include norigae (traditional ornaments for women), rings
and chignon ornaments, etc.
The outline of hanbok is very simple: the flat cloth is cut and
patterned in a straight line. When it comes to the sewing method,
however, the strict way of folding a seam is applied to all types of
hanbok ; and its git (collar), doryeon (the hemline of jeogori ) and
baerae (bottom line of the jackets sleeves) are sewn in a curved line.
There are some rules that you should follow when you wear hanbok ,
but after wearing it, its loose fit will be comfortable and allow you to
cover the flaws of your body shape. In contrast to Western clothing,
which achieves dimensionality through straight-lined fabric, hanbok
is made with f lat fabric in a linear shape that only achieves
dimensionality when it is worn on the body. When placed on the
human frame, the hanbok takes on a life of its ownone that is
natural, elegant and flowing. In other words, depending on the wearers
body shape and way of wearing it, the lines and shapes of clothes can
vary. Indeed, such natural lines of hanbok are one of its unique
aesthetic characteristics and make the wearers look more attractive.
5
01 The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok
Also, when you wear hanbok , you wear several pieces of clothes in
layers, and these natural and voluminous clothes will create your own
unique style. Hanbok can be made with various kinds of cloth,
especially with cotton and wool, depending on the ways of weaving.
Even the clothes of the same design can look totally different when
their sheen and texture differ. Natural dyeing materials can create
various colors of dark and pale, deep and light, transparent and opaque
on the condition of the materials and dyeing methods.
Cloth of various colors contributes to the richness and diversity of
hanbok . In addition, kinds of cloth differ from four seasons, and
different kinds of cloth require different sewing methods. The sewing
lines are important in that the lines determine the complete look of the
wearer. Various types of hanbok can be made according to the texture
and the color of cloth or sewing methods, thereby creating a variety of
lines of hanbok . In the end, the beautiful lines of the hanbok depend on
the harmony of texture, colors and sewing lines of the clothes. Also,
only when the hanbok is worn, its lines come to life in perfection. Since
every component of hanbok represents ones wish for a better life, and
consideration of (or respect towards) others, it is safe to say that
hanbok contains the aesthetic and living philosophy of Koreans. One
can read the mind of the wearer and designer through its beautiful lines
of hanbok . In a sense, hanbok has somewhat contradictory
characteristics: simple but diverse; flat but voluminous. Also, hanbok
represents the wearers aesthetic sense and deep insights. Indeed,
hanbok , the traditional clothing of the Korean people and currently
worn as formal dress, amplifies the wearers natural physical and
spiritual beauty.
6
2. baSiC hanbok
for Men and woMen
The kinDs of CloThes Comprising mens
hanbok
Modern male hanbok (Korean traditional clothing) is comprised of
baji (pants), jeogori (basic upper garment), baeja (traditional vest),
jokki (vest) and durumagi (overcoat), etc.
BAjI Mens trousers are wide, and are composed of marupok, sapok
and
Baeja B
aeja are sleeveless clothes worn over jeogori , which has a
symmetrical git (collar), and is adjusted with goreum or buttons.
JOKKI Jokki are sleeveless clothes worn over jeogori , and jokki are
similar to a western-style vest. Koreans began to wear this type of
vest from the late 19th century (specifically the time when the
Joseon Dynasty developed into a modern state). Its design, since
then, has changed little.
Magoja M
agoja are sleeveless and collarless clothes worn over jokki ,
and is adjusted with buttons. Koreans have traditionally worn
magoja in winter with jokki as a body warmer since the late
19th century.
8
Durumagi D
urumagi is an outer jacket for both men and women for
special or formal occasions. It is also worn in winter as a
body warmer.
9
01 THE ESTHETICS OF LInES, HAnBOK
10
The Types of Womens Jeogori
Min jeogori a type of jeogori with plain git and goreum without hoijang.
11
The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok
12
02
How to
Wear
Hanbok
Beautifully
13
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
1. How to Wear
Hanbok Properly
When you wear underclothes and outer garment of hanbok in proper
order, it will make an elegant look.
14
Hanbok for females is worn this way
As for women, you will look fabulous in hanbok when you wear
underclothes and outer garment properly.
Sokjeoksam Jeogori
15
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
2. How to wear
underclothes of Hanbok
1. For men, just wear basic underclothes. Be careful not to let
undershirts be seen through v-shaped collar of jeogori .
16
3. how To wear beoSeon
(TradiTionaL korean SoCkS)
19
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
6,7 Tie the daenim at the inner ankle bone, and make a knot in the same
way of tying the goreum.
8 Pull down the bottom parts of the pants slightly so that daenim is
covered.
21
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
3. Wear Jeogori
1 If jeogori has inner coat-strings, tie them. If jeogori has an outer snap
button, adjust jeogori with that button.
2 After tying goreum, pull jeogori slightly to the front to prevent the
collar and the shoulder seam from being seen on the back.
22
WHEN WEARING JOKKI (VEST) AND
MAGOJA (OUTER COAT)
6. Wear Durumagi
The way mentioned above applies here as well.(See p.22)
23
02 HOW TO WEAr HAnBOK BEAUTIFULLY
24
3. Wear sokjeogori (inner jeogori)
You should wear sok-jeaksam (inner shirt) or sok-jeogori (inner jeogori ),
especially when your clothes are thin.
5. adjustment
1 Lean your body forward to adjust the shoulder seam line to be seen
from the front. Smooth out the creases of gil (panels of fabric that
make up the body of jeogori ) and sleeves.
2 Adjust the waistline of skirt so that it cannot be seen outside the
hemline of jeogori . Be careful not to expose beoseon under the skirts,
but only to show the tip of beoseon .
3 Try to match shoes that go well with hanbok when you go outside.
25
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
26
hair sTyling anD make-up
neat and tidy hairstyle, especially one that makes your neckline and
collar stand out, and goes well with hanbok . If you are a woman
with medium-long or long hair, it is better to bind your hair up. Try
decorating your hair with a chignon ornament that goes well with
the color of your hair and clothes, then it will make a great hair
styling of you. If your hair is short, then just make it tidy and neat.
If you are a girl with long hair, it is best to have your hair braided and
decorated with daenggi (a ribbon used to tie and decorate long hair),
and for a girl with medium-length hair, bind it up, and a girl with
short hair, just make it neatly combed. Children will look more
stylish when their hair is ornamented with daenggi .
It depends on the time, place, or clothes that you are wearing, but
wearing light make-up is recommended, and the same goes for lip
make-up. Steer clear of dark or heavy lip liner and choose the color
that can go well with the colors of hanbok that you are wearing.
27
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
8. Appropriate posture
when you wear Hanbok
Standing posture
Stand naturally with your heels together and your toes facing
outwards. Keep your head erect and pull down your chin. Keep your
knees, buttocks and waist straight. Keep your shoulder in line and do
not bend the shoulder forward or backward. Naturally straighten
yourself up.
Distribute your weight on both legs evenly so that your body does not
lean to either side. Put your hands together in front of your body.
Sitting posture
When You Sit on the Floor Do not sit in front of elders. If you are a
man, sit on the right across from elders. If you are a woman, sit on the
left across from elders. Sit up straight and keep your eyes on the floor
a few meters ahead of you.
Bend down the left knee first and then right knee, and then sit. If you
are a man, put your hands together in front of your body. If you are a
woman, put your hands on the right knee. If you are a man, adjust
your durumagi to prevent it from being spread out. If you are a
woman, pay attention to the pleats of your chima to prevent them
from being spread out.
When you sit on a cushion, be careful not to step on it. Sit on the
center of a cushion with your tip toes placed on the edge of the
cushion. While sitting up, straighten your knees with two hands
pushing slightly the cushion, so that the cushion does not move.
Sit comfortably when the elderly tell you to do so. Men sit cross-
legged on the floor and women sit with one knee drawn up. Be
careful not to lean on the wall or furniture or not to hold onto the
floor or not to sit on leaning one side, or not to stretch out both legs.
When You Sit on a Chair If you are a man, adjust your durumagi . If
you are a woman, adjust the pleats of your chima in order not to
make creases on them while sitting on. If you are a woman, it is better
to pull the outer pleats of your chima slightly upwards not to make
creases on the clothes.
28
9. how To
keeP hanbok
1 2
3 4
29
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
Chima (a) When chima is kept in a box or a drawer: fold the chima
in half along the seam line. If there is not enough room in the box,
fold it one more time.
(b) When chima is kept on a hanger: tie the waist with strings and
hang it over a hanger.
Mens jeogori Fold goreum neatly and put it over collar. Fold the
two sleeves toward gil . If the box or drawer is small, fold the folded
gil and sleeves one more time. Be careful not to make a mess of git
and dongjeong while folding the clothes.
30
Baji Fold baji lengthways once and fold it along the width two or
three times.
Baeja and Jokki Fold baeja and jokki along the width. If there is not
enough room in the box or drawer, fold them lengthways. Be
careful not to spoil its collar or neckline.
M
agoja Fold the sleeves toward the collar, and fold the clothes in
half.
Durumagi Fold goreum neatly and fold it over the collar. Fold the
sleeves toward the collar. Fold both mu (side gores) while folding
the collar and the sleeves by the width of mu one more time. Fold
the clothes lengthwise two to three times.
31
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
32
03
The
Story of
Hanbok
in History
33
03 The Story of Hanbok in History
Korean Traditional
Clothes within
Everyday Lives
Korean history includes all the things such as clothes, food and
shelter that have influenced the everyday lives of Koreans and have
been with them. Among them, the clothes of Korean give us an
opportunity to look into the situation of the times and to better
understand the identity of Koreans. It is difficult to find out exactly
when Koreans began to make and wear clothes, but based the fact that
relics from the Neolithic Age included hemp yarn, bone needle, and
spinning wheels, we can assume that Koreans have made and worn
clothes since then.
Korean people have worn different types of clothes depending on
their age, sex and social occasion throughout their lives. Koreans have
had a new born baby wear white baenaet jeogori wishing for his or her
health and longevity. A hundred days after the birth, the family
members have had the baby wear clothes made of 100 pieces of cloths
or quilts, wishing for his or her well-being. On the first birthday of a
baby, which is called dol in Korean, people have had the baby wear
dolbok (clothes for a one-year-old baby) with multi-color sleeves.
Patterns and colors of the dolbok represent the wish for the wearers
health and luck.
A boys dolbok having navy git, kkeutdong and goreum at the sleeves and purple mu .
34
In a wedding ceremony which is one of the most important
ceremonies of ones life, Koreans used to wear splendid and colorful
ceremonial clothes. Clothes for wedding ceremony represent the hope
and wish for health and happiness of the bride and groom. Grooms
used to wear dallyeongpo and samo . Brides used to wear hwalot
embroidered with lotus, peony, a child monk, etc., all of which are the
symbol of married couples long and happy union till death them to
part and hwagwan; or wonsam and jokduri . When ones parents were
alive when the person turned hoi-gap (61 years old in Korean age), the
person used to see his parent wearing o-bang-jang durumagi ,
jeonbok and bokgun as in the case of dol (one year old in Korean age)
Sangbok is clothes for funerals which is white and simple; and
represents sorrow for the death and a low-key attitude. At ancestral
rites, one used to wear white or jade-green and simple clothes to show
respect toward ones ancestors. Likewise, we can find ones wish for
living a better life in harmony with others in Korean clothes.
35
03 The Story of Hanbok in History
37
03 The Story of Hanbok in History
38
Proper clothing can lead to appropriate
manners and etiquette
The clothes of the Goryeo period had remained unchanged until the
early Joseon Dynasty, but began to change gradually and developed
their own unique style. During the early Joseon period, Koreans
embraced the clothes of the Ming and the Qing dynasties in their
existing form, but then began to make their own clothes independently.
Also, one of the characteristics of clothing in the Joseon dynasty was the
abundance of clothes for ceremonial occasions. The ruling principle of
the Joseon kingdom was Confucianism so that the manners were of
paramount importance. Confucianism also guided the norms of daily
life. Therefore, the clothes also had to be designed in a way that showed
respect and kept ones manners. Codes such as Gyeongguk daejeon or
Gukjo oryeui specified the details of clothes for the king, the nobility and
ordinary people. In other words, according to the law, the wearer had to
wear clothes with certain colors, patterns, fabrics, materials and
accessories, according to their social status. Also, the ruling class both
wore imported attire as well as native dress depending on the situation,
even though Joseon had its own sartorial institutions. Ordinary people
wore indigenous clothing, which has also seen changes over time.
Cheolik , mens outer coat that is made by sewing pleated skirt and jeogori together.
39
03 The Story of Hanbok in History
A court robe. Dang -ui with patterns representing ones wish for longevity and good luck.
One kind the womens clothing, jeogori, which had been waist
length, shortened to breast length in the mid and late Joseon period,
hence the look of a tight top and loose skirt. The jacket, which makes
the upper body look very small, while the skirt worn wrapped around
the waist makes the lower body look full, creates an attractive balance.
Clothes for ordinary men were further diversified, and there were
various types of po such as dallyeong, dapo, cheolik , and aekjureumpo.
Since the 17th century, the details of those clothes also began to
change. In addition, the various types of outer coats meant that men
enjoyed more freedom in outer coat styling than women did. The basic
clothing culture has not changed much, but over time, the types have
become varied and the unique aesthetic style with unique clothes and
ornaments has developed. Based on this, we can say that the history of
hanbok reflects the gentle but persistent characteristics of the Korean
people and their enduring sense of national identity.
40
ADVISOR
Costume Design & ProductionGRETA LEE
HairLIM SOO BIN
Make-upLEE HAE YOUNG
THE IMAGES ARE APPROVED FOR USAGE IN THE BOOK the STORY OF HANBOK UNDER
THE KOREA OPEN GOVERNMENT LICENSE (KOGL) (THE part 3).
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03380
( )
9 788997 252404
ISBN 978-89-97252-40-4
ISBN 978-89-97252-40-4