Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Issue Five
Modern English
Contemporary fashion statements
Martyn ware
Heaven 17’s electric icon
Visual Acoustics
The sculptured photography
of Julius Shulman
Uma Turan
Hats off to the UK’s leading theatrical milliner
Hello Retroites,
We’ve just returned from Vintage at
Goodwood - a theatrical manifestation of
an abundance of subcultures, genres,
fashions, quirky nuances and although Inspired
we left with one hell of a hangover we
welcome an elegant festival with
4 top five
sartorial élan to the social calendar. 12 gadgets
But aside from frolicking with polka 16 lifestyle
dot-clad women in fields, Retro has 20 fashion
been busy producing yet another
jam-packed issue for you to feast your 26 motoring
gluttonous eyes on. Here in these pages
EDITOR’S LETTER
64 58
38 32
44
five
the top
1
Wheels & Dollbaby
Dita Embroidered Cardi
$198 (AUS)
Pinel and Pinel’s designs are made for today’s lifestyle and
alternative travel trends. The range features an i-Trunk, which
includes a fully-equipped office; the Krug Trunk, the ultimate in
luxury for eccentric picnickers; and this rather fantastic Game
Trunk which is described as being ‘the celebration of parlour
games: some privileged moments of sharing that remain
engraved on our childhood memories’. There are around forty
games including the 1935 1st edition Monopoly set, the 1970
1st edition Clue and for the younger folk there’s a Nintendo DS
and even a bit of Triv for the whole family!
www.pineletpinel.com
five
the top
3
Andy Warhol: The Last Decade
Exhibition at Brooklyn Museum
4
Space Invaders Couch
£POA
Sony CDF-A110
TBC
The CFD-A110 has just been released in Japan and comes with an
integrated CD player, a cassette tape player and an AM/FM radio tuner.
If you fancy a warble there’s a built-in microphone for recording and you
can switch between your favourite stations with the two-way buttons.
But being honest if you buy this baby your dial is going to be locked to
only one station and that’s Retro Radio!
www.sony.jp
gadgets
SB2 Sportsband
£TBC
Forget hi-energy sports drinks these headbands will definitely heighten your
performance. The SB2 Sportsband introduces the option of CD-quality music
performance and comes with apt-X on board, which cleans up and adds depth,
bass and treble over Bluetooth. The design takes cues from the 80s so if you feel
like ‘getting strong now’ then whack on a pair and head off to the gym.
www.jaybirdgear.com
Inspired
New products Classic influence
Reconditioned Transparent
746 Telephone
£POA
Originally used in telephone exchanges,
there are less than 100 of these
telephones in existence. If these were
a bit before your time, or you just fancy
a trip down memory lane then check
this out: http://bit.ly/9aSCdl
Yes, siree, that familiar chirp was
indeed the 746 in action.
www.pedlars.co.uk
Where to Darlin'?
£95
Dan Innes’ work is inspired by the
everyday events he encounters
along with a more subversive look at
depicting the current world climate
we live in. This work reflects a softer
side with a 30" x 23" Silkscreen
signed limited edition of 50, on white
textured 100% cotton paper, signed
and numbered by the artist.
www.artrepublic.com
lifestyle
Tall Lamp on Wheel
£350
There is something very
English about this. It’s a
slightly wonky lamp...due
mainly to its height and the
fact that the main pole
slots into the wheel
assembly. As these lamps
have been assembled from
various different bits and
bobs, some reclaimed,
some which are brand
new, no two are precisely
the same. So this image is
only a representation of
what you will receive and
at Retro we like the idea of
ordering this and waiting
for the day when a
random, rather lanky,
wonky lamp turns up at
our home.
www.pedlars.co.uk
HMC Hidalgo
S wiss Helvetic Motor Company will be using a Mercedes-Benz SLK 55 AMG as the base
for the soon to be launched HMC Hidalgo. Already looking like a modern classic, with a
cheeky nod to the Bugatti Type 57, the car has been designed by a team of engineers with
F1 experience amongst their ranks. The Hidalgo will have a 355-horsepower (265-KW,
360-PS) V8 engine, although if you want to give it a bit more grunt you can pay extra.
Only six cars will be produced annually, with a starting price of around €310,000.
o
Aston Martin
the real james Bond movie car
comes up for sale at auction
T
he Aston Martin DB5 driven by Sean Connery
in Goldfinger is up for sale by auction. The car
comes with the full complement of famous
Bond ‘gadgets’, fitted by the Factory, including
machine guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number
plates, tracking device, removable roof panel, oil
slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke
screen — all controlled by toggles and
switches hidden in the centre
arm-rest.
Two Aston Martin DB5s
were used on screen
for the production
DB5
of the timeless 1960’s James Bond classics, For Thunderball, FMP 7B was to have most of
Goldfinger and Thunderball. The other car was the screen time, so it was fitted with the full
reported stolen in 1997 and is believed to have complement of gadgets. Its specification has not
been destroyed. changed since its appearance in Thunderball and
Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 and its gadgets were virtually all its distinctive gadgets remain intact.
the brainchild of Oscar-award-winning special Sold in 1969 to American Mr. Jerry Lee — FMP
effects expert John Stears, also of Star Wars and 7B’s first ex-factory and remaining owner. Mr. Lee
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang fame. pursued FMP 7B and eventually negotiated its
The FMP 7B was the 'Road Car' used in purchase from the Aston Martin factory for
Goldfinger and featured in various locations and $12,000. For a time, Mr. Lee agreed to allow
was given substantial screen time, most notably Aston Martin to continue to use FMP 7B for
the scenes at the Stoke Park Club and iconically promotional purposes in the USA. FMP 7B
when Bond was spying on Mr. Goldfinger from enjoyed record-breaking crowds at exhibitions on
the picturesque Furka Pass in Switzerland. numerous occasions throughout the 70s, until the
car was pulled from public life in 1977. The
odometer shows approximately 30,000 miles,
mostly, one presumes, from its tour usage.
Proceeds of the sale of FMP 7B will be used to
further the charitable work of ‘The Jerry Lee
Foundation’, a multi-national initiative dedicated to
solving social problems associated with poverty,
with an emphasis on crime prevention.
stics
I
n need of vintage photos of San Francisco, Eric
Bricker was led to the work of Julius Shulman.
Not only did a great friendship ensue, a film of
the world’s greatest architectural photographer
was released, celebrating the career of a man
whose images brought modern architecture into
the American mainstream.
Retro Magazine, in this pictorial celebration,
appreciates why the film’s director was so
inspired by Julius Shulman.
Julius Shulman captured the work of nearly every
modern and progressive architect since the 1930s
including Frank Lloyd Wright, Richard Neutra, John
Lautner and Frank Gehry. His images epitomised the
singular beauty of Southern California’s modernist
movement and brought its iconic structures to the
attention of the general public. The film Visual
Acoustic: The Modernism of Julius Shulman is
testament to the evolution of modern architecture and
as the filmmaker Eric Bricker said: “Few people have
had such a profound impact on my life as he has.
Two things were apparent to me upon my initial
meeting with Julius in the spring of 1999. First, the
photography created by the man is nothing short of
astounding, and second, Julius himself is equally
impressive as the work he created.”
V
isual Acoustics has picked up an array of works of art that enabled Eric to develop a
awards since release, including the greater visual vocabulary and sense of design.
Mercedes-Benz Audience Award for Best But it was only after discovering Shulman’s work
Documentary at the Palm Springs International that all the pieces of the puzzle fell into place.
Film Festival, the Audience Award for Best “Few people have had such a profound impact on
Documentary at the Austin Film Festival, and my life as he. The true defining characteristic of a
Outstanding Achievement in Documentary Shulman photograph is that vibrant, uplifting,
Filmmaking at the Newport Beach Film Festival. profound energy that transcends the two-
As Eric Bricker’s passion for filmmaking grew, so dimensional space.”
too did his art consultation firm, Artistic Designs Prior to filmmaking Eric was active in music and
Unlimited, formed in 1996. It was through theatre in St. Louis, Missouri, but with a
developing an understanding of his clients’ spatial grandmother who took him to countless films,
needs and translating those specifics into original Eric knew that Los Angeles was an inevitable
move. However, before moving to
Los Angeles Eric went on to
graduate from Indiana University
where he received his B.A. in
English Literature with a minor in
Theatre. After graduation Eric
spent the next few years acting
with the California Repertory
Company and the Utah
Shakespearean Festival. Upon
settling in Los Angeles, Eric
turned his focus towards film and
television production where he
worked with such notable talent
as Jerry Seinfeld, Alec Baldwin
and Danny Aiello. Meanwhile,
Eric explored his affinity for
music, playing percussion with
the likes of Lula & Afro-Brasil and
Perry Farrell at Coachella
Festival. It was during this period
that Eric started producing and
directing his own film projects
that lead to Visual Acoustics. “It is
an honor and privilege to work on
a project possessing such depth
and distinction; I do so with the
utmost passion, determination and humble photographing with a Brownie Box Camera. I
appreciation. When viewing one of Julius’ consider Julius my mentor and my friend. The
‘constructed views’ I am reminded of the potential photography however is only half the story; Julius
for greatness inherent within each individual and himself is the other. Distilled to its barest essence
then usually driven to a state of bewilderment it is this: Julius is a humanist. His genuine love
knowing that within the Shulman archive is 8000+ for people, culture and the arts preserves my
projects dating back to 1927 when Julius started 98-year-old friend as an eternal youth.”
J
ulius Shulman died last year
aged 98, two and a half months
before the release of Visual
Acoustics: The Modernism of Julius
Shulman. In an obituary, his good
friend Ron Field wrote:
“Driving through Los Feliz last year,
I pointed out a building to him. In
vintage Shulman fashion he
answered, ‘You don’t need to tell me
that — I know everything’.”
And when it came to modern
architecture nobody would argue
with that.
Uma: I designed the most beautiful hat for one of reflected your own sense of style, what would it
my clients, which was totally made out of look like?
crystals. I think that was the most daring hat ever.
Very recently I made a giant Napoleon Hat for
Uma: I love 1950's style button winter berets.
great British interior designer David Carter.
Retro: Stars, such as Lady Gaga, have Retro: Which era do you think best celebrated the
hat and why?
championed fashion that pushes the boundaries.
Do you think there is a current revival in theatrical
clothing and self-expression via fashion? Uma: Until the end of the 50s hats were always
celebrated and worn by nations. I think in the last
Uma: I do think there will always be relation couple of years hats have again made a
comeback into daily life. In addition to weather
between expressing yourself with fashion. I think
conditions, I think recent theatrical music videos
people will always use traditional and past with
also makes a huge impact on young fashion
new and now!
followers.
Retro: If you had to design a hat to wear that Retro: What are your favourite types of materials
to you work with, and are there any limitations?
L
ast Sunday morning — and not for the first The invite promised an afternoon of “fun,
time — I woke up and thought I was a bit of fashion and frivolity” for girls who’d like some
a tart yesterday. In fact, I was a lot of a tart. vaudeville glamour in their lives, but also came
Actually, I’ll be totally honest with you, on with the slightly intimidating dress code of “Drop
Saturday between the hours of 2 and Dead Gorgeous”, further qualified by
6pm, I was a complete tart. “I’ve fallen “absolutely no jeans or you will be sent
It’s not usually something I so readily home in tears”. Yowsers. So, dressed to
admit to, but I’m going to share the
down a rabbit impress even the most discerning of
whole experience with you because it hole in the Glamazon bouncers, I tottered
was delicious, delightful and achingly purposefully up Mile End Road.
fabulous.
middle of The event was sold out, as always, to
Tart is a monthly event held at East London, a galaxy of femme fatales ranging in
London’s prestigious 40 WiNKS hotel age and reason for being there,
— a venue paid no small compliment
and it feels including a hen party, a 40th birthday
by German Vogue for being the “most great” celebration and a mother and daughter
beautiful small hotel in the world”. It’s day out. Some had even travelled from
hosted by a holy trinity of glamour: David Carter, as far afield as Milan just to attend this event
interior designer extraordinaire and society — so my intrigue was well and truly piqued.
dandy; sumptuous pin-up queen Fleur de Guerre; All of a sudden, Master of Ceremonies, David
and Vintage Secret’s Naomi Thompson. Carter, burst through the front door, asked us
outright if we were all tarts, and then grandly recently) had tailor-made a decadent spread of
welcomed us in. I felt a sudden rush of bling to smoked salmon and cucumber sandwiches,
the head as I excitedly bobbed in and out of cakes, sweets and treats. All delicious.
lavish rooms filled with sparkly jewellery, But that was just the icing on the cakes, literally.
heavenly hats, vintage dresses and more The entertainment alters each month, and this
make-up than a girl could dream of. It’s that initial time we found ourselves being dolled up by
sense of disorientation muddled with anticipation professional make-up artists from catwalk
that adds to the magic of Tart. All of a sudden, favourites GlamSpot Cosmetics — a range of
you’ve fallen down a rabbit hole in the contemporary powders and glosses
middle of East London, and it “David enriched with vitamin E and jojoba oil
feels great. that treats your skin on the outside and
And if 40 WiNKS is the rabbit hole,
Carter asked in! Vintage hairstylists, Lipstick and
then David Carter is definitely the Mad us outright if Curls, gave us all a ‘do’ Bettie Page
Hatter. Naughty, flirty and fun, he would be proud of, as well as the
dishes out compliments as though they
we were all chance to dress up in an array of
were sweets, and lets loose his acerbic tarts” gorgeous vintage outfits.
tongue whenever he sees fit. All in all, Then it was on to the tongue-in-cheek
the perfect host for a surrealist’s pleasurable educational element to the afternoon, which has
Saturday afternoon. previously seen ex-Diary Editor of Tatler, Liz
Each ticket costs £80, which is a fair old chunk Brewer, giving a talk on how to achieve the
of a girl’s hard-earned cash, so I was keen to see perfect kiss. Oo-er missus! We had Fleur De
exactly what Tartlets get for their money. For Guerre expounding the various ways we can be
starters, each guest has access to unlimited more ‘vintage glamorous’ in our everyday lives,
cocktails specially created for the event — we followed by a Hendrick’s Cocktail Making
had a yummy concoction of gin, elderflower and Masterclass, which taught even the
pressed apple juice. The truly brilliant outfit mixologically-challenged amongst us how to
Vintage Patisserie (you may have seen Dragons make the best Tom Collins in the land.
Theo and Deborah wowed by them in the Den Renowned angelologist and author, Angela
McGerr, was on hand to give guests angelic life
guidance. And as if saving the best for last, the FLEUR DE GUERRE’S
top floor was transformed into a pampering
boudoir where massage specialists, Xhilarate,
VINTAGE GLAMOUR TIPS
worked their extraordinary magic using gentle
manipulation and acupressure techniques. • A great cheat is to use Babyliss Hot
Tart also attracts some fab up-and-coming retro Sticks to create those fantastic 40’s curls
designers so you can check out and buy — they take 20 mins as opposed to the
jewellery, hats and accessories from the likes of old-fashioned pin curls or rollers that
Passionate About Vintage, Pauper and Plush and would have to be in for hours, or even
theatrical milliner Uma Turan — all doing new overnight.
and exciting things with vintage components.
Amongst the mayhem, I found time to catch up • The Red Lipstick Test — as a general
with the co-hosts and founders of the event to rule of thumb look at the veins on the
find out why they felt there was a need for Tart. inside of your wrist. If they are purple,
“We wanted to create an event where ladies you have a warm tone and should go for
could have a fabulous afternoon,” says David. pinky reds. If they are green, you have
“No-one has much time to pamper themselves a cool tone and should aim for the
any more. Tart is a celebration of glamour, style orangey reds.
and of being a woman.”
And then he said something that really rang • Seamed stockings add vintage glamour
true: “Women today are career-orientated and to any outfit, and Fleur is a big fan of
ambitious. But sometimes, showing your ones with a nude seam if you want to
womanly side can be seen as a handicap, a wean yourself onto them, rather than
declaration of weakness. Tart is somewhere you going straight in at the deep end with
can come to be self-indulgent, frivolous and the black seam.
unashamedly girly.”
And it’s true. The last time I’d been this girly and
playful I was seven years old, and wildly my fellow Tarts. I could see they’d loved every
rummaging through my friend’s make-up and minute and they looked fantastic. They told me
dressing-up box with very little success. But in the best thing about the day was being able to
my everyday life, there is something that holds escape from the outside world and just grab
me back from wearing girly hats, high heels, a some time to themselves.
bright red lippy or dazzling accessories. Tart All in all, by the end of the four-hour experience,
gave me the excuse I’d spent 23 years looking you may have spent £80 but you do feel a million
for — to spend four solid hours on nothing else. dollars. This Tart’s not very good at maths, but
Not being an exponent myself, I wondered what that definitely seems like a good deal to me.
it was about the vintage look that got people so
hooked. Talking to Fleur, who told me her
previous incarnations had included punk and
rockabilly, I understood she saw vintage as
another way to break out of the norm: “Being
immaculately dressed is a way of rebelling in
some ways. People are fed up of the wash & go,
tousled hair and smudgy eyeliner look. I just want
to look pristine.”
As the afternoon drew to a close, I wandered
round the house picking up my belongings that
I’d strewn all around like an impulsive teen during
my transformation process, and said goodbye to
Room With A
W hat do an opulent two-room town house
in East London, a retro-futurist boutique
in Paris, an ex-gangsters’ haunt in New York
to expect from your stay on a weekend
city break.
Retro Magazine delves into its little black book
and an exquisitely renovated Art Deco hotel in of favourite haunts and showcases some
Prague all have in common? outstanding hotels that won’t leave you feel
Well, they’re all pushing the boundaries of what dirty after a weekend on the tiles.
Image supplied by Design Hotels
View
Images supplied by The Bowery Hotel
New York
T he Bowery’s 130 opulent rooms, stylish lobby
and 24-hour room service don’t betray a
neighbourhood where punk rock and gangsters
hotel!). After a successful hit Trapani was given
a percentage of the hotel's earnings and bought
a hotel room on the second floor for $20,000.
once ruled, but this hotel, synonymous with the In 1955, Corleone-family associate Marty Malone
area, comes with a colourful history. thought there was an informant in the hotel
In 1945 hotel manager Bowery Bill (Shipp), leaking information to the FBI. He eliminated
funded by the Barzini crime family, commissioned the agent, who was guarded by several
hitman Aldo Trapani to whack some troublesome Barzini thugs, before being revealed as a
guests (makes note not to oversleep at this traitor himself.
what do you collect? was a big deal for me and he said at the end of
I used to collect American comics; I’ve kept my the interview “that’s one of the most perceptive
collection and I’ll give them to my son and he’ll and intelligent interviews I’ve ever done about the
probably go: “What the hell are these?”. No, he miners’ strike” — then of course Capital Radio
does like them, but the funny thing is everybody wouldn’t play it!! (laughs) There you go, I’ll never
is making films of them now. My collection is get played on Capital Radio again.
worth thousands because I’ve got some really
quite rare things. I used to have a couple of what is your favourite film of all time?
thousand of them but I got rid of some when A Clockwork Orange (where both Heaven 17 and
I moved house. I collect music but more in the The Human League take their name from). I’m
MP3 format now...I’ve still got about a thousand very fond of Blade Runner and Close Encounters
vinyl in my studio. of the Third Kind and those type of Sci-fi films.
Do you have a 20th century hero? what was your first job?
Tony Benn. I was asked to interview ‘My Hero’ for I was a trainee manager at the Co-op in Sheffield.
a Capital Radio (London) series. This was in the I was paid a £1000 a year.
mid-80s at the time of the miners’ strike and we
did a fantastic interview, such a charming guy, who is your all time favourite actor?
absolutely open. He said, “do you mind if I record Gene Hackman. Everything I’ve seen him in,
this?”, and so I’m in his room, where he has a apart from Superman, he’s been great. I really
recording of every interview he has ever done. liked him in Eureka by Nicolas Roeg, which is a
Obviously I’m from Sheffield so the miners’ strike very underrated and underexposed film. I also
think Leonardo DiCaprio is pretty darn good, of what’’s your favourite retro shop?
the contemporary bunch. He’s a perfect example Oh god, I can’t remember the name of it, it’s near
of it being about the roles you choose, he’s very Spitalfields [in London] — Beyond Retro, that’s it,
smart about which ones he selects. I thought he I love it. Me and my daughter are always trawling
was excellent in Gangs of New York. through there for vintage stuff.
Do you have a favourite song? Have you lost anything that you really
It’s almost impossible but for all round magic it regret?
would be The Beach Boys’ ‘Good Vibrations’, My sense of naivety! No...when I was very poor
although it’s a very close run thing with ‘You’ve and had to move flats, I did a moonlight. It’s the
lost that Loving Feeling’ by The Righteous only time in my life I’ve done it and of course it
Brothers. didn’t work and I had to pay it back. Because I
had done it literally overnight, at that time in the
Give us a record to get the place flat I had about a thousand comics and I had to
jumping? leave about 700 of
Without a doubt it them and I really
would have to be regret that. They
James Brown and would have been
probably, there’s so worth about £5K
many to pick from, definitely a false
hhhmmm I probably economy...really
wouldn’t go for ‘Sex stupid.
Machine’ although it
is fantastic. It’s a what’’s your
little bit self-serving
favourite drink?
but I often put on
I’ve just stopped
‘Dance Little Sister’
drinking but I do have
by Terence Trent
a favourite drink. It’s
D’Arby which I
making me salivate
produced. That
just thinking about it.
always gets
A Hendrick’s Gin
people going. Martini with a twist of
lemon. Lovely!
And one record
to chill to... what is your
I’d put on Mahler’s favourite building and why?
‘Sixth Symphony’; it’s quite a nice counter I’m absolutely obsessed with architecture... it
balance to all the pop music I listen to. I’m a big would have to be the Doge’s Palace in Venice, I
fan of classical music, I go to a lot of the Proms. admire it greatly.
It’s not like I’m from a posh family, so for me
everything is a bonus when it comes to classical
who or what has been the biggest
music as it wasn’t part of my life when I was
growing up. I acquired a taste for it like fine wine! influence on your life?
Music. It’s a bland answer but my life would have
been entirely different if it hadn’t taken that path.
what’’s your favourite street market?
In Sheffield I’m not sure what the alternative
The fish market at the Rialto in Venice. It’s
would have been. In the words of the great John
absolutely staggering.
Miles ‘music was my first love and will by last’.
artistic point of view I wrote a piece, actually this
is probably my proudest moment, that was
performed at the Royal Ballet — I got presented
on stage as the composer by the dancers. Then
you go down into the Royal Opera [House]’s
archives, that’s a proud achievement for a lad
from Sheffield.
OCTOBER 2010
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