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Packs 1-10
1
Assembly Guide Part 1
Packs 1-10
Contents
HMS Victory, Admiral Nelson and the Battle of Trafalgar 3
Build it your way 8
Pack 1 13
Pack 2 17
Pack 3 21
Pack 4 29
Pack 5 31
Pack 6 33
Pack 7 42
Pack 8 44
Pack 9 45
Pack 10 63
3
Victory was almost entirely built of oak.
Many of her timbers were massive,
weighing many hundredweight, and her
hull was several feet thick.
4
Grim reminders of 18th-century warfare on
board Victory include surgical tools used in
amputations and for extracting bullets.
5
Victory carries a full complement of guns
on each of her three gun decks.
W
ith each shipment, youll receive more packs of parts to be
used to put together your model of HMS
Victory. These include precision laser-cut
wooden components to build the hull, solid hardwood for the
planking and masts, die-cast, turned and etched metal
components for the deck fittings, guns and other equipment, cord for
the rigging, and cotton cloth for the sails.
Although the parts go together in the same way, you
have a choice of a natural wood model or a
painted finish (see below). As
some of the parts need to be
painted as you go, choose your
paint finish before you start.
As well as deciding whether to paint the straight and help to make it rigid. fairing) so that the planks will curve
model, or leave it natural, there are a few Adding a cutaway: If you want to add smoothly over them, rather than going in a
other choices to make before you assemble the optional cutaway shown below, you will series of steps. Then you bend the planks
the framework and the planking. Most need to alter the framework to allow you to and glue and pin them in place until the
importantly, you need to decide: leave the side of the ship open to install the whole hull is complete.
whether to construct the optional cutaway guns and gunners at a later stage. This will Adding a cutaway: If you decided to
(see below) be fully explained in the step-by-step add a cutaway, youll omit the planking
whether to apply a copper finish to instructions. If you dont want to add a between some of the ribs at this stage.
simulate the sheathing applied below the cutaway to your hull, you can use the extra
waterline (see pages 10-12). guns and gunners to build a miniature Stage 3: Hull fittings
Your choice of options will affect the way diorama showing life below decks. Once The first step in fitting out the hull is to cut
you build the model. Lets start by looking again, the step-by-step instructions will the dozens of gun ports that pierce both
at the building sequence, stage by stage: show you whats involved. sides of the planking. With that done, each
of the ports can be lined with strips of
Stage 1: The framework Stage 2: Planking wood. Then you add the curved strakes and
In this stage, youll assemble the framework Once the hull framework is complete, you wales strips of wood that reinforce and
over which Victorys planking is applied. can cover it with planks, just like the real protect both sides of the hull. Various
Youll glue these parts together with the Victory. The first step is to smooth off and minor deck and hull fittings are added at
decks, which will keep the whole structure shape the frames (a process known as this stage. If you are painting the hull, some
The Cutaway
The cutaway is created by omitting parts of the hull the end of construction (Stage 6). If you prefer to leave the
framework and planking during Stages 2 and 3 to leave hull intact and not add the cutaway, you can use the extra
sections of the open gun decks on display. The guns and guns and crew to create a miniature diorama depicting the
gunners you need to create the scene are supplied later on work going on below decks, which you can display
in the series, as they are not placed inside the model until alongside your completed model of HMS Victory.
Starting at the upper edge of the copper applied below the impossible to turn the hull upside-down. Many parts of the
waterline (see Adding Copper Sheathing on pages 11 and hull will also become completely inaccessible when you add
12), Victorys sides were painted in a dull matte black divided the rigging especially the external shrouds that come
with three broad bands of dull matte yellow ochre. The down from the masts and over the sides of the ship, secured
bands of color do not follow the lines of the wales by deadeyes and lanyards to external channels projecting
(reinforcing bands of planking) or the lines of the gun ports. from the hull.
They are not the same width throughout their length, but Youll need to paint various other items as they are added
become narrower toward the bows and stern of the ship. to the hull at a later stage. These include the gun port lids
Its essential to mark and paint these stripes at the stage and other external fittings. You may also need to add
when the hull and its main fittings are complete but before finishing touches to the main hull. Full painting information
you add delicate items of deck equipment that make it will be included at the points when it is needed.
Victory as she appears at Portsmouth today. After extensive restoration, the great Finishing details, such as gun port lids, are
warship appears much as she did at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar, with a added toward the end of the build, so they
prominent paint finish of black and yellow ochre. have to be painted at a much later stage.
of the more delicate items need to be left separate sections that you shape and join some finishing touches as you go, since
until after you have done so, and can be following full-size plans supplied with the some areas are inaccessible once the masts,
painted individually as you go. packs of parts. spars and sails are in place. (If you prefer,
Painting the ship: If you decided to Painting the ship: If you decide on a you can omit the sails, leaving the ship
paint the hull, you need to apply the basic painted finish, you need to paint the masts with bare spars, as Victory appears today)
stripes of black and yellow at this stage (see and spars as you go, because they will
Victorys paint finish, above). become inaccessible later on. If you opted Stage 6: Finishing touches
Adding copper sheathing: If you for a natural finish, you can simply varnish Final details include the last of the rigging
decide to add the copper bottom, you also all the parts to protect them. lines plus some external fittings, including
need to do this now (see Adding Copper gun port lids, anchors, davits and flags.
Sheathing, on pages 11 and 12, for the Stage 5: Rigging and sails Painting the ship: If you choose a
various options). The completed masts can now be installed painted finish, you need to add a few
in the hull, adding the standing rigging finishing touches at this stage.
Stage 4: Masts and spars lines as you go. The yards, sails and rigging Adding a cutaway: If you decide
Victorys three masts, bowsprit and the lines are then added in sequence. to include the cutaway, you will install the
yards that carry the sails are made from Painting the ship: You need to add guns and gun crews at this stage.
10
11
12
Pack 1
The parts provided include four precision, laser-cut frames to form the bow of Victory, plus glue, and
all the components for the first of the guns that formed her main armament.
8
Victorys hull is built up around a
series of U-shaped rib frames
that run the full length of the
ship. The ribs slot into an internal
keel that runs from bow to stern
below the gun decks. The parts
provided are the bow section of
the internal keel (1), the forward
bulkhead (12) and two bow 1
formers (8).
12-pounder gun
Component check
Small Parts
The components that make
up the gun are very small,
so ensure that none of the
components shown (right)
are missing before you
assemble it as shown later
in this pack. Note that one
pair of wheels is larger than
the other, and that the two
pins that fix the gun to the
deck are not used until later.
glue
13
1. The forward bulkhead (12) fits into slot number 12. Test-fit 2. Separate the keel from the forward bulkhead again and
to check that the bottoms of the two slots touch and the base apply a thin line of glue along both sides of the slot in the
of the bulkhead lines up with the curved edge of the keel. forward bulkhead.
3 Quick Tip
The edges of the wood are accurately cut using a laser
(which is the reason they are a darker brown). As a result,
there should be no stray splinters to prevent the joints from
sliding together easily. But if there are any rough spots,
lightly rub the parts with fine sandpaper to remove them.
3. Before the glue starts to dry, slide the two parts together
again. Make sure that the bottom of the bulkhead ends up
flush with the curved edge of the keel.
4. The two bow formers (8) have a pair of projecting tabs that
fit into the matching holes numbered 8. Test them in position
before applying glue to the tabs and the straight edges of the
bow formers.
Quick Tip
The bulkhead is symmetrical, so it
5. Press both bow formers will fit into the slot in the keel either
into place. Check that the way around. Make sure you install it
joints between all four with the numbers facing forward, as
parts are at right angles shown. Otherwise, it will be harder for
and set the assembly aside you to match up the numbered bow
to dry. If necessary, you can formers (parts 7 to 11a) when you
use a little masking tape to receive them in later packs.
hold the parts until the
glue has set.
14
Both axles
Before you start and the trunnion
are cut from the
Make sure you have all the components long piece of
shown in the exploded view (right) wire
before you start. You will need:
u A craft knife
u Side cutter pliers (from model shops)
u S uperglue (cyanoacrylate adhesive)
to fix the parts together
u A pair of tweezers to hold the parts
u A flat needle file (from model shops)
1 2 3
1. Use a craft knife to separate the two 2. Fit the sides and base of the carriage 3. Leave enough wire projecting to form
sides of the gun carriage. Support the together like this, ensuring that the an axle for one of the wheels (about 1/8
parts on a cutting mat or work surface ribbed surfaces of the sides are facing in). Use side cutters to snip the wire on
to ensure that you do not split the wood out. Then gently push the brass wire the other side of the gun carriage, with
as you cut the tab that joins them. through one set of axle holes. the same amount projecting.
4
Paintwork
Trafalgar finish
The guns carried on board ships of
the line were painted black, using a
mixture of black lead, linseed oil and
other materials to prevent the iron
from rusting. To achieve this finish,
paint all the brass parts using a fine
brush and black modeling paint.
HMS Victorys gun carriages were
painted a dull yellow
ochre. You will
need to apply
4. Push the remaining piece of wire through the other pair of axle holes. As before, this color
trim the wire off leaving a small bit projecting from both sides to take the wheels. before
Now hold the carriage upside-down. Ensure that the base touches the axles and that fitting the
the axles are centered, then carefully apply a tiny amount of superglue to the barrel.
underside so that it runs into the joints.
15
5 Expert Tip
Using superglue
Liquid superglue of the type recommended for the model is
very runny and it is easy to apply too much. It can also bond
skin in seconds, so if you are unfamiliar with using it, read
the safety instructions on the pack.
When using superglue to assemble a finely detailed model
like Victory, it can be tricky to apply the small amounts
needed. Never apply glue to the model until you
have first tried it on a piece of scrap card to see
how quickly it runs out of the nozzle. To
apply tiny amounts accurately, you may
find it easier to run out a blob of glue
5. When the glue has set, turn the carriage on one side and onto the card and pick up a droplet on
place one of the larger wheels on the end of the front axle. the point of a pin.
Apply a tiny drop of glue to the center to fix it in place.
6 7 8
6. Glue one of the smaller wheels to 7. To finish the axles off neatly, you can 8. Lay the remaining wire in the grooves
the rear axle, then turn the carriage over file the projecting ends of the wire flush running across the top of the sides. Cut it
and add the other two wheels. using a flat needle file. off flush with the sides of the carriage.
9 10
Ensure
the ring on the
barrel (called
the thimble) is
facing up
9. Push the cut length of wire through the hole in the gun 10. Glue the two brass cap squares over the ends of
barrel to form the trunnion, then lay the barrel on the gun the wire. The easiest way to do this is to hold the cap
carriage with the ends of the wire in the grooves. square with tweezers. Put a drop of glue on a
piece of paper, touch the cap square
11. Take the to the glue, then hold it in
11
remaining small position on the gun
rectangle of wood carriage until the
and use a craft knife glue sets.
to shave it to a
wedge shape.
Glue the wedge to
the back of the gun
carriage, so that it
raises the rear end
of the gun barrel.
16
Pack 2
The parts provided include six precision laser-cut plywood parts for the first of the
U-shaped rib frames that support Victorys planking, plus all the components for the
first of the four massive anchors used to moor the warship.
Parts
13, 13a, 13b
Rib frame
Parts
14, 14a, 14b
Rib frame
Anchor
6 components
Small Parts
The brass ring that goes
through the eye of the
anchor is very small, so
make sure that it does not
get misplaced. Note that
there are two coils of
thread a thick one and a
thin one. The thin thread is
used to bind the anchor
stock; the thick one is used
to make the mooring line.
17
Only
apply glue
as far as this
point
1. Take the three plywood components labeled 13, 13a and 2. The dove-tailed joints are a close fit, so dont assemble
13b. Together, they make up the first of the 17 U-shaped rib them without glue, as they may be hard to separate. Apply
frames that form Victorys hull. a little glue as shown and press the parts together.
3 4
3. Make sure that both ribs are straight and not twisted, then 4. The rib frame slides into the number 13 slot immediately
set the completed frame down on a flat, non-stick surface, behind the forward bulkhead. As you did with the bulkhead,
such as a plastic worktop, to let the glue dry thoroughly. ensure that the bottoms
of the two slots touch,
5 so that the base of the
rib lines up with the
curved edge of the keel.
This slot
forms a socket
for the
foremast
Quick Tip
We recommend that
you dont glue the
U-shaped rib frames to
Victorys internal keel yet as
its important to align the
tops with the frames that
are still to come. However,
5. Assemble rib frame 14 in the same way
you can slot both rib frames
as you did for 13. When the glue is dry, try
into the bow assembly to
the rib frame in place in the keel. Note that
see Victorys hull start to
the slot is thicker at the top. This will form a
take shape.
socket for the base of the foremast.
18
3 4 5
3. The slot needs to be the same width 4. File a slot in the other piece of the 5. Its easiest to fit the ring into the eye
as the shank of the anchor, so check that stock, ensuring that the two slots line at the end of the shank now, rather than
this will fit. Note that the points of the up. Check that the two halves fit around after you glue the stock in place. Open it
anchor go at right angles to the stock. the shank and dont leave a gap. and pinch it back together using pliers.
6 7
Quick Tip
Its possible to manage without
a modeling vice as used in Step 2.
However, a table-top model
(right) may not cost that
much and can be used in
many ways as your model
progresses. A swiveling
head and interchangeable jaws
are useful features. 6. Apply glue sparingly to 7. Press the two halves together around
one half of the stock. Apply the shank, ensuring that they line up
a little to both the central with each other. Clamp lightly (clothes-
slots. pins are a simple alternative to clamps
or a vice) and leave to dry thoroughly.
19
8 important 9
note
We have
demonstrated
Steps 9-13 using
brightly colored
thread to make it
easier to see the
whipping
technique.
However, you must
use the dark thread
provided, to
produce the result 9. Use thin thread to simulate the steel banding.
shown in Step 14. To avoid an unsightly knot, make a loop near
8. When the glue is dry, smooth off the corners of one end and lay it under the stock. Then start
the stock using a small piece of fine sandpaper. wrapping around the stock, toward the loop.
10 11 12
11
10. When you have enough turns, take 11. Gently pull the free end of the 12. Apply a drop of superglue; it will
the free end of the thread through the thread until the loop and the end of the soak into the binding and secure the
loop and hold it tight. wrapping disappear under the binding. thread permanently.
13 14 15
13. Use a sharp knife to trim off both 14. The correct knot to use 15. Then take the short end behind
ends of the thread flush with the for the mooring line is a the long one and tuck it through
binding. Then add three more bindings fishermans bend. Start by the turn you just made.
in the same way in the positions shown taking a turn through the
in step 16. brass ring.
Note
16 that the wooden
stock should be at
right angles to the
anchor
20
Pack 3
The parts provided include four precision laser-cut sections to extend the hull of
Victory, and all the components for the first of the two carronades, or smashers,
she carried on deck for close-quarters engagements.
Parts 15
Center of rib frame
Part 2
Extension of internal keel Part 9
Bracing pieces Bow formers
Carronade
The components
Small Parts
The parts that make up the
carronade are very small, so
make sure that none of the
components shown (right)
is missing before you
assemble it as shown later
in this pack. Note there are
10 eyebolts (on the left of
the picture) and three pins
(far right, top), of which
two are not used until later.
21
1 2
1. The extension of the internal keel (2) has an end joint that 2. Lay the keel down flat. Before the glue has dried, apply glue
fits onto the bow section (1). Apply a little glue to the contact to each of the bracing pieces, covering the surface as shown.
area and join the parts together.
3
4
3. Fit one bracing piece to each side of the keel. Ensure that 4. Clamp the assembly together firmly. It is quite easy to
the tops align with the top of the keel and that the bracing dislodge the bracing pieces as you do this, so make sure that
pieces dont cover slots 15 and 16. they are still in the correct position, then set aside to dry.
5 Quick Tip
You can slot the U-shaped
rib frames into the bow
assembly to see Victorys hull
start to take shape, but dont
glue them yet as its important
to align them with the
frames that are
yet to come.
22
2 3
2. Following the diagrams at the top of page 24, mark the 3. Clamp the wooden base in a modeling vice and use a
positions of the holes in the side of the wooden base and micro drill to drill the four holes in the side of the base.
mark where the base, the rounded slide that goes on top, and The wire-gauge drill bit needs to be a fraction larger than
the square mounting platform that goes under it fit together. the shaft of an eyebolt.
23
pivot hole
5 mm 10 mm 10 mm
15 mm 12.5 mm
22 mm
2. location of SLIDE AND mounting platform 26 mm
The carriage of the carronade comes in three parts: the
wooden base (with one rounded end); the upper slide
(with two rounded ends); and the square mounting
platform. Drill four holes in the sides of the base before
assembly. Then glue all three parts together before
drilling the seven holes (above) right through them. Note
7 mm 7 mm that the pivot hole is larger than the other six.
4 5 6
4. Apply a small amount of glue to the 5. Press the two components together, 6. Apply a little glue to the rounded end
underside of the slide and wipe off any aligning the positioning marks, and of the base and glue the mounting
surplus. allow the glue to dry. platform in line with the marked point.
Expert tip 7 8
Drill all the holes using a modelers
micro drill (Archimedean drill) and
wire-gauge drill bits (below). The
latter come in sets the higher the
number, the smaller the drill. You
normally need a No. 65 and a No. 72
to drill the wood, but check by
drilling a test hole to make sure that
a pin and eyebolt will fit. The brass
parts (see next page) need a No. 62.
7. Following the diagrams, mark the 8. Clamp the base in a modeling vice
positions of the holes in the side of the and use a micro drill to drill the six
wooden base and the rounded slide eyebolt holes and one pivot hole right
that goes on top. through all the parts.
24
Where to drill
and bend the pivot
The pivot is made from the thin brass strip, supplied
oversize. Mark the dimensions as shown.
5 mm 3 mm 5 mm
larger larger
hole hole
1. Following the dimensions on the left, measure the small
3 mm dead 3 mm brass strip and score lines at the marked points (including the
center total 13 mm length required) using the point of a craft knife.
Expert Tip
To hold the brass strip
for drilling, stick it to a
piece of double-sided
tape (or masking tape
wound backward) on a
block of scrap wood.
2. Snip off any surplus from the end of the brass strip. Take
care, as the small piece will fly off with some force.
3 4
3. Gently punch marks for three drill holes at the points 4. Drill the three holes using your micro drill, taking care not
indicated on the diagram above, using the point of a to apply too much pressure and snap the drill bit on the
sharp panel pin. relatively hard material.
5 6 7
5. The two end holes need to be larger 6. Use long-nose modeling pliers to 7. Trim the end of the brass wire square
than the center one. Check that the bend the brass strip into a square U with a flat needle file and bend it
brass wire will slip through. shape as shown. straight if necessary.
25
8 9
8. Cut a length of brass wire to fit through the arms of the U 9. Ensure that the pivot on the carronade is square to the
shape you just made. File the cut end square, leaving a short barrel. If necessary, twist it into place and fix it with superglue.
amount projecting on both sides. Then place a drop of superglue in the hole in the pivot.
10 11
10. Glue the short length of brass wire into the hole, leaving an 11. Insert one of the three brass pins through the center of the
equal amount projecting on both sides. brass U and pull the head level with the metal.
12 13
12. Holding the pin, spring the two arms of the U over the 13. Apply glue to the projecting pin and the underside of the
projecting ends of the brass wire. Pinch the arms together with brass U and insert the pin through the center hole in the slide.
the pliers to complete the barrel mounting.
Custom Finishing
You have the choice of leaving the materials of the
carronade in their natural finish to show the construction of
the model or painting them to look even more like the
original on Victory. In the latter case, you may wish to touch
in the brass pivot with a little black modeling paint. Its
easiest to do this now, before adding the eyebolts and other
fittings around the outer edges of the wooden base.
26
Eyebolts
1 2
1. Gently file one end of the smallest piece of wood into a 2. Insert the cross-shaped elevating screw through the eye in
shallow wedge shape to form the quoin that goes under the the end of the barrel. Then glue the wedge under the thickest
barrel of the carronade. Cut the wedge to around 3 mm long part of the barrel, ensuring that it clears the elevating screw.
(inset). This piece is small and can easily become lost once its
cut off, so pay close attention.
3 4
3. Glue the first two of the 10 brass eyebolts (numbers 1 and 2 4. Glue six of the other eyebolts (numbers 3-8) through the
in the picture at the top of the page) into the front holes in the top of the base, noting that they go in different directions (see
sides of the wooden base, ensuring that the flat of the eyes above). Snip off all the projecting ends of the eyebolts and the
lies parallel to the edge of the wood. pin holding the barrel, then file them flush with the base.
27
5 6 7
5. Take the shaped piece of brass and 6. Snip off short lengths of brass wire to 7. Superglue the holes in the two small
use long-nose pliers to bend it into a fit through the holes at each end of the wheels, slip each one into the channel
U shape along the marked lines. channel and file both ends square. and insert the wire to form axles.
8 9
8. Glue the completed assembly to the end of the base to form 9. Snip off about 2 inches of the fine wire and lace through one
the carronades side-to-side training wheels. of the remaining eyebolts, leaving equal lengths projecting.
10 11 12
10. Use a pair of pliers to form a loose 11. Take one of the wooden blocks and 12. Then use round-nose
loop through the eye, then twist the wrap the free ends of the wire around it. pliers to form another eye
free ends to secure the loop. Twist the ends to secure the block. in the free ends of the wire,
and twist to secure it.
13. Snip off the
13
ends of the wire,
then glue the
eyebolt into
one of the
remaining holes
in the side of the
base as shown
right. Repeat the
assembly of the
other block in the
same way.
28
Pack 4
The components provided include 13 precision laser-
cut parts to complete the bow framing and assemble
another of Victorys rib frames.
Parts 11a
Bow formers
Parts 10 Parts 11
Bow formers Bow formers
Parts 7
Bow formers
11a
Victorys bow is built up around a
series of closely spaced curved 11
formers that slot into the forward
bulkhead. The planking is fixed to
these, and the U-shaped rib
10
frames that run the full length of
the ship, slotting into an internal
keel that runs from bow to
stern. The parts provided
complete the bow framing.
29
1 2
1. Apply a little glue to the straight edges of the two number 2. Repeat the process to add the two number 11 bow formers,
10 formers, then press them into place, ensuring that they are followed by both the number 11a formers, which fit alongside
at right angles to the forward bulkhead. the number 11 formers.
3 4
3. Glue the long tab on one of the two small cross shapes (7a) 4. As you did with the previous ribs, apply a little glue to the
into the slot in part 7. Glue the other tab into the bulkhead. two joints that attach parts15a and 15b to the main section of
Ensure the curve on part 7 is the right way up (below right). rib 15.
Ensure you
fit part 7 the
right way up,
as shown
Do not glue
5. Add parts 15a and 15b, then lay any ribs in place
the completed rib assembly to one yet. Note rib 16 is
side to allow the glue to dry, incomplete at
ensuring that the parts are straight this stage
and level.
30
Pack 5
The components provided include six precision
laser-cut parts to continue building up the rib
frames for the hull of Victory.
Part 18
Rib frame
Part 17
Rib frame
31
1 2
1. Take the center section of rib frame 16 (supplied with the 2. Attach the two wing sections (16a and 16b) to complete the
previous pack) and apply a little glue to the dovetail joints on rib frame. Ensure that the parts are lined up flush and lay the
both sides. frame down flat to dry.
3 4
3. Repeat the process, using the three sections you received to 4. After joining the parts, make sure the joints are in line, then
assemble rib frame 17. set the frame aside to dry flat.
Quick Tip
To see more of the forward
section of Victorys hull
taking shape, you can
loosely assemble the rib
frames. Do not glue them
at this stage.
32