Clas Beaches

Department of Civil, Structural & Environmental
Engineering
Student Name: JohnJoe O Sullivan
Class: MEng in Civil Engineering

(Environment & Energy)
Module Name: INTR9004 Project Realisation
Project Title: Classification of Irish Beaches
Lecturer Name: Dr. Joe Harrington
Date submitted: 19th September 2014

Classification of Irish Beaches Acknowledgements
Acknowledgements
I would like to take a moment to express my gratitude and appreciation to those that
have helped me over the course of this project. The following people are those that
deserve special thanks for assisting me in order to complete this research.
First and foremost I would like to thank my project supervisor, Dr Joe Harrington for
all the advice and guidance he has given me through out the entire project. His time,
effort and patience are greatly appreciated.
I would like to thank other members of staff in the Department of Civil, Structural and
Environmental Engineering at Cork Institute of technology for their help and advice
throughout the project development phase of this project. I want to give a special
thanks to Mr Leonard O Driscoll and Mr Jim O Byrne for with out their help and
advice this research would have been more difficult.
I also want to thank the DHI who have provided me with the commercial software
needed to carry out wave transformations that will have enabled to determine the
wave climate at the beaches selected to a very high accuracy, it would not have been
possible to conduct this research without their assistance.
I would like to thank Mr Aidan O Connell for his assistance during this project.
I would like to thank my family for their support and help completing this project.
Finally I would like to express my gratitude to my classmates for their help and
assistance during this project. I wish to give a special thanks to Robert Wilmot, Enda
Collins, Shane O Flynn and Cian O Sullivan.
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering i

Classification of Irish Beaches Executive Summary
Executive Summary
This project aims to develop a beach classification model that has been validated for
use on Irish beaches. Beach classification models have been developed over the past
six decades as a means of identifying the sedimentological, morphological and
hydrodynamic beach features that are present on beaches.
Beach classification models have been pioneered by researchers for beaches in

Australia and have been subject to continuous development through the monitoring
and research of beaches along the Australian coastline. Recently a similar model been
developed for England and Wales based on data collected from beaches along the
coastline.
This report will investigate the existing beach classification models and the steps
required to carry out the classification of a beach. The information required to carry
out the classification of a beach includes the tidal range, wave climate, beach slope,
sediment size and the presence of features such as sandbars, rips, cusps and
vegetation.
To determine the information that is required to carry out the classification of a beach
requires the precise measurement of the various parameters. This required the use of
GPS surveying equipment and post processing software wave and tide data sets, Mike
21 wave modelling software, Sediment sampling and Particle size analysis tests.
All of the beaches selected are located along the County Cork Coastline including
Barleycove Beach, the Warren Beach, Inchydoney Beach, Rocky Bay Beach, Inch
Beach and Youghal Beach.
An Irish Beach Classification model is then presented based on six of the groups in
the England and Wales Beach Classification model; recommendations on conducting
the classification of a beach and for further research are also outlined.
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering ii

Classification of Irish Beaches Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Acknowledgements ................................................................................................. i
Executive Summary ................................................................................................ ii
Table of Contents ................................................................................................... iii
Table of Figures ................................................................................................... viii
List of Tables ......................................................................................................... xii
1.0 Introduction .................................................................................................. 1

1.1. Background to project .......................................................................................... 1
1.2. Aims and Objectives ............................................................................................. 1
2.0 The Irish Coastline ......................................................................................... 3
3.0 An Introduction to Beach Classification Models ............................................. 6

3.1. Development of Methodology ............................................................................. 6
3.2. Developing a Beach Classification Model for Ireland .......................................... 13
4.0 Elements of a Beach Classification Model .................................................... 14

4.1. Introduction ....................................................................................................... 14
4.2. Tidal Range ........................................................................................................ 14
4.3. Wave Climate ..................................................................................................... 15
4.4. Slope .................................................................................................................. 15
4.5. Beach Sediment ................................................................................................. 16
4.6. Sandbars ............................................................................................................ 17
4.7. Rips .................................................................................................................... 18
4.8. Cusps ................................................................................................................. 19
4.9. Terraces ............................................................................................................. 20
4.10. Vegetation ....................................................................................................... 20
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering iii

5.0 Beach Data Collection .................................................................................. 21

5.1. Introduction ....................................................................................................... 21
5.2. Research Locations ............................................................................................. 21
5.3. Tide Data ........................................................................................................... 22
5.4. Wave Data ......................................................................................................... 22
5.5. Beach Slope ........................................................................................................ 28
5.6. Sediment Size Analysis ....................................................................................... 31
5.7. Desk and Visual Beach Study .............................................................................. 32
6.0 Barleycove Beach ......................................................................................... 34

6.1. Site Description .................................................................................................. 34
6.2. Location ............................................................................................................. 34
6.3. Desk Study ......................................................................................................... 35
6.4. Visual Study ....................................................................................................... 36
6.5. Environmental Parameters ................................................................................. 37
6.5.1. Sediment Size .................................................................................................... 37
6.5.2. Beach Slope ....................................................................................................... 37
6.5.3. Tidal Range ........................................................................................................ 38
6.5.4. Wave Climate .................................................................................................... 38
6.6. Summary of Beach Characteristics ...................................................................... 39
7.0 The Warren Beach ....................................................................................... 40

7.2. Location ............................................................................................................. 40
7.3. Desk Study ......................................................................................................... 40
7.4. Visual Study ....................................................................................................... 43
7.5. Environmental Parameters collected .................................................................. 44
7.5.1. Sediment Size .................................................................................................... 44
7.5.2. Beach Slope ....................................................................................................... 45
7.5.3. Tidal Range ........................................................................................................ 45
7.5.4. Wave Climate .................................................................................................... 45
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering iv

8.0 Inchydoney Beach ........................................................................................ 48

8.2. Location ............................................................................................................. 48
8.3. Desk Study ......................................................................................................... 48
8.4. Visual Study ....................................................................................................... 50
8.5. Environmental Parameters collected .................................................................. 51
8.5.1. Sediment Size .................................................................................................... 51
8.5.2. Beach Slope ....................................................................................................... 52
8.5.3. Tidal Range ........................................................................................................ 52
8.5.4. Wave Height ..................................................................................................... 52
9.0 Rocky Bay Beach .......................................................................................... 54

9.2. Location ............................................................................................................. 54
9.3. Desk Study ......................................................................................................... 54
9.4. Visual Study ....................................................................................................... 58
9.5. Environmental Parameters ................................................................................. 59
9.5.1. Sediment Size .................................................................................................... 59
9.5.2. Beach Slope ....................................................................................................... 59
9.5.3. Tidal Range ........................................................................................................ 59
9.5.4. Wave Height ..................................................................................................... 60
10.0 Inch Beach ................................................................................................. 62

10.1. Site Description ................................................................................................ 62
10.2. Location ........................................................................................................... 62
10.3. Desk Study ....................................................................................................... 62
10.4. Visual Study ..................................................................................................... 64
10.5. Environmental Parameters .............................................................................. 65
10.5.1. Sediment Size ................................................................................................. 65
10.5.2. Beach Slope .................................................................................................... 65
10.5.3. Tidal Range ..................................................................................................... 65
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering v

10.5.4. Wave Height ................................................................................................... 65

10.6. Summary of Beach Characteristics ................................................................... 67
11.0 Youghal Beach ........................................................................................... 68

11.1. Site Description ................................................................................................ 68
11.2. Location ........................................................................................................... 68
11.3. Desk Study ....................................................................................................... 68
11.4. Visual Study ..................................................................................................... 71
11.5. Environmental Parameters .............................................................................. 72
11.5.1. Sediment Size ................................................................................................. 72
11.5.2. Beach Slope .................................................................................................... 72
11.5.3. Tidal Range ..................................................................................................... 72
11.5.4. Wave Climate .................................................................................................. 73
11.6. Summary of Beach Characteristics ................................................................... 74
12.0 Summary of Beach Classification ............................................................... 75

12.1. Data Collected ................................................................................................. 75
12.2. Barleycove ....................................................................................................... 75
12.3. Warren Beach .................................................................................................. 77
12.4. Inchydoney Beach ............................................................................................ 79
12.5. Rocky Bay Beach .............................................................................................. 81
12.6. Inch Beach ....................................................................................................... 82
12.7. Youghal Beach ................................................................................................. 83
12.8. Beach Classifications ........................................................................................ 84
13.0 Conclusions and Recommendations ........................................................... 86

13.1. Conclusions ...................................................................................................... 86
13.2. Recommendations ........................................................................................... 87
References ............................................................................................................ 89
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering vi

Appendix A ~ Beach Survey Method Statement ...................................................... A
Appendix B ~ CIT Laboratory Method Statement .................................................... B
Appendix C ~ Sediment Size Analysis Graphs ........................................................... C
Appendix D ~ Beach Survey Profiles ....................................................................... D
Appendix E ~ Tide MSR Calculations ........................................................................ E
Appendix F ~ Mike 21 Wave Model Results ............................................................. F
Appendix G ~ Wave Linear Equation Results .......................................................... G
Appendix H ~ Technical Document ......................................................................... H
Appendix I ~ Poster .................................................................................................. I
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering vii

Classification of Irish Beaches Table of Figures
Table of Figures
Figure 1.1 Beach Locations (3) ....................................................................................... 2

Figure 2.1 Irish Coastline (5)........................................................................................... 3
Figure 2.2 Waves at Lahinch Co. Clare (6) ..................................................................... 3
Figure 2.3 Rocky Bay Beach January & October 2010 (7) ............................................. 4
Figure 2.4 ICPSS South Coast (8) ................................................................................... 5
Figure 2.5 2030 Erosion Map for the Old Head of Kinsale (8) ....................................... 5
Figure 3.1 Beach Type Distribution in Australia (10) ..................................................... 7
Figure 3.2 Locations Used in the English and Welsh Research (12) ............................... 9
Figure 4.1 Waves Approaching Barleycove Beach 03-03-14 ..................................... 15
Figure 4.2 Beach Slope (13)........................................................................................... 15
Figure 4.3 Littoral Cell (14) ........................................................................................... 16
Figure 4.4 Underwater Sandbar (14) .............................................................................. 17
Figure 4.5 Linear Sandbar (15) ...................................................................................... 17
Figure 4.6 Multiple Sandbars in Japan (16) ................................................................... 18
Figure 4.7 Rip Current Formation (14) .......................................................................... 18
Figure 4.8 Beach Rip (17) .............................................................................................. 19
Figure 4.9 Cusps (19)..................................................................................................... 19
Figure 4.10 Terrace (19) ................................................................................................ 20
Figure 4.11 Beach Vegetation (20) ................................................................................ 20
Figure 5.1 Beach Locations (3) ..................................................................................... 21
Figure 5.2 Mike 21 Wave Model Example (21) ............................................................ 23
Figure 5.3 Land/ Sea Boundaries ................................................................................ 24
Figure 5.4 Generated Mesh ......................................................................................... 25
Figure 5.5 .xyz Scatter File for Barleycove ................................................................. 25
Figure 5.6 Bathymetry Output ..................................................................................... 26
Figure 5.7 Admiralty Chart Extract (23) ........................................................................ 26
Figure 5.8 Wave Propagation into Barleycove ............................................................ 27
Figure 5.9 Equipment required for beach slope surveys ............................................. 28
Figure 5.10 Static Data Collection at Barleycove Beach ............................................ 29
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering viii

Figure 5.11 Coordinate Conversion (1) ......................................................................... 29

Figure 5.12 Rocky Bay Beach Aerial Image (3) ........................................................... 30
Figure 5.13 Rocky Bay Survey Lines .......................................................................... 30
Figure 5.14 Sediment Size Analysis Apparatus (25) ..................................................... 31
Figure 5.15 Grain Size Composition ........................................................................... 31
Figure 5.16 Rip Current at Barleycove Beach ............................................................. 32
Figure 5.17 Rip Current Trails at Youghal Beach ....................................................... 33
Figure 5.18 Warren Beach before and after Coastal Protection Works (1) (26).............. 33
Figure 6.1 Barleycove Beach (26).................................................................................. 34
Figure 6.2 Historic map of Barleycove beach Circa 1829-41 (1) ................................. 35
Figure 6.3 Historic Map of Barleycove Circa 1897-1913 (1) ....................................... 35
Figure 6.4 Rip Current Visible at Barleycove Beach .................................................. 36
Figure 6.5 Vegetation at Barleycove Beach ................................................................ 37
Figure 6.6 Barleycove Beach....................................................................................... 37
Figure 6.7 Water Depth at LAT+2 .............................................................................. 38
Figure 6.8 Wave Period ............................................................................................... 39
Figure 6.9 Wave Height............................................................................................... 39
Figure 7.1 The Warren Beach (26)................................................................................. 40
Figure 7.2 Warren Beach Circa 2000 (1) ...................................................................... 41
Figure 7.3 Warren Beach Circa 2005 (1) ...................................................................... 41
Figure 7.4 Warren Beach Circa 2012 (26) ..................................................................... 42
Figure 7.5 Warren Beach before and after Coastal Protection Works (1) ..................... 42
Figure 7.6 Warren Beach Raised Sediment Levels ..................................................... 43
Figure 7.7 Warren Beach Breakwater ......................................................................... 43
Figure 7.8 Warren Beach Breakwater 2 ...................................................................... 44
Figure 7.9 Warren Beach Sediment ............................................................................. 44
Figure 7.10 Water Depth at LAT+2 ............................................................................ 46
Figure 7.11 Wave Period ............................................................................................. 46
Figure 7.12 Wave Height............................................................................................. 47
Figure 8.1 Inchydoney Beach (26) ................................................................................. 48
Figure 8.2 6" OSI map Circa 1829-41 (1) ..................................................................... 49
Figure 8.3 Inchydoney Circa 2005 (1) .......................................................................... 49
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering ix

Figure 8.4 Inchydoney Beach Circa 2012 (26) .............................................................. 50

Figure 8.5 Inchydoney Beach on Day of Survey......................................................... 50
Figure 8.6 Sieved Inchydoney Sediment ..................................................................... 51
Figure 8.7 Water Depth at LAT+2 .............................................................................. 52
Figure 8.8 Wave Period ............................................................................................... 53
Figure 8.9 Wave Height............................................................................................... 53
Figure 9.1 Rocky Bay Beach (26) .................................................................................. 54
Figure 9.2 Rocky Bay Beach 20th October 2009 (7) ..................................................... 55
Figure 9.3 Rocky Bay Beach 22nd November 2009 (7) ............................................... 55
Figure 9.4 Rocky Bay Beach 17th January 2010 (7) ...................................................... 56
Figure 9.5 Rocky Bay Beach 26th November 2010 (7) ................................................. 56
Figure 9.6 Rocky Bay Beach 2000 (1) .......................................................................... 57
Figure 9.9 Rocky Bay Beach ....................................................................................... 58
Figure 9.10 Rocky Bay Beach Sandbar ....................................................................... 58
Figure 9.11 Rocky Bay Sediment Sample ................................................................... 59
Figure 9.12 Water Depth at LAT+2 ............................................................................ 60
Figure 10.1 Inch Beach (26)........................................................................................... 62
Figure 10.2 Historic 6" map with Street Map Overlay circa1829-41 (1) ...................... 63
Figure 10.3 Historic 25" Map Circa 1897-1913 (1) ...................................................... 63
Figure 10.4 Inch Beach April 2014 ............................................................................. 64
Figure 10.5 Inch Beach April 2014 ............................................................................. 64
Figure 10.6 Water Depth at LAT+2m ......................................................................... 66
Figure 11.1 Youghal Beach (26) .................................................................................... 68
Figure 11.2 Historic 6" Map circa 1829-41 (1) ............................................................. 69
Figure 11.3 Historic 25" Map circa 1897-13 (1) ........................................................... 69
Figure 11.4 1995 OSI Imagery (1) ................................................................................ 70
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering x


Figure 11.7 Youghal Beach Groynes in Disrepair....................................................... 71
Figure 11.8 Youghal Beach Rip Evidence on Sandbar ............................................... 71
Figure 11.9 Youghal Beach sample after Sieving ....................................................... 72
Figure 11.10 Water Depth at LAT+2m ....................................................................... 73
Figure 11.11 Wave period ........................................................................................... 73
Figure 11.12 Wave Height........................................................................................... 74
Figure 12.1 Barleycove Beach (1) ................................................................................. 75
Figure 12.2 Beach near Aquitaine, France (3)............................................................... 76
Figure 12.3 Warren Beach (26) ...................................................................................... 77
Figure 12.4 Orewa Beach Australia (3) ......................................................................... 78
Figure 12.5 Inchydoney Beach (26) ............................................................................... 79
Figure 12.6 Inchydoney Beach on Day of Survey....................................................... 79
Figure 12.7 Blackpool Beach (26) ................................................................................. 80
Figure 12.8 Rocky Bay Beach (1) ................................................................................. 81
Figure 12.9 Inch Beach (1) ............................................................................................ 82
Figure 12.10 Youghal Beach (3) ................................................................................... 83
Figure 12.11 Low tide rip evidence at Youghal Beach ............................................... 84
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering xi

Classification of Irish Beaches List of Tables
List of Tables
Table 1 Australian Beach Model (10) .............................................................................. 8

Table 2 England and Wales Beach Classification Model (12)....................................... 10
Table 3 Barleycove Results ......................................................................................... 39
Table 4 Warren Beach Results .................................................................................... 47
Table 5 Inchydoney Beach Results ............................................................................. 53
Table 6 Rocky Bay Beach Results .............................................................................. 61
Table 7 Inch Beach Results ......................................................................................... 67
Table 8 Youghal Beach Results................................................................................... 74
Table 9 Summary of Data Collected ........................................................................... 75
Table 10 Barleycove Beach Summary ........................................................................ 76
Table 11 Warren Beach Summary............................................................................... 78
Table 12 Inchydoney Beach Summary ........................................................................ 80
Table 13 Rocky Bay Beach Summary ......................................................................... 81
Table 14 Inch Beach Summary ................................................................................... 83
Table 15 Youghal Beach Summary ............................................................................. 84
Table 16 Beach Classification Model for Ireland ........................................................ 85
Table 17 Beach Classification Model for Ireland ........................................................ 87
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering xii

Classification of Irish Beaches Introduction
1.0 Introduction
1.1. Background to project

Beach classification models have been developed over the past 60 years as a means to
identify the sedimentological, morphological and hydrodynamic beach features that
are present on beaches. The development of Beach classification models began in
Australia and this work has recently been tailored for England and Wales based on the
data collected from 92 beaches in England and Wales using knowledge and basic
beach types developed from the Australian research. Until this point no research has
been carried out to validate, modify or expand any such model for use on beaches in
Ireland.
1.2. Aims and Objectives

The aims and objectives of this project are as follows:
Investigate the Irish Coastline and erosion impacts
Investigate Beach Classification Models
Undertake a beach classification analysis for a number of local beaches
Develop, validate, modify or make recommendations on a model that can be
used for the Irish Coastline
This research aims to develop a beach classification model that is validated for use on
Irish beaches. This will be achieved by collecting data from six Irish beaches along
the coastline of County Cork, in order to validate, modify, expand or make
recommendations on the model set out for England and Wales. The coastline of
(1) (1)
County Cork accounts for 1094km of the total 5631km or 19.4% of the total
coastline in Ireland. Beach classification models are used in the risk assessment of
beaches; these are used to ensure that safety is maintained on beaches through
highlighting risk.
The locations chosen for this study are located along the south coast of Ireland and are
all within the boundary of County Cork. Six beaches were studied as part of this
project, two of the beaches, Inch Beach and Youghal Beach were previously studied
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering 1

Classification of Irish Beaches Introduction
as part of a project that was completed in 2013 (2), the other four beaches have not
been studied in this manner previously. The locations of the six beaches that formed
part of this project are shown in Figure 5.1 Beach Locations.
Youghal Beach
Inch Beach
Rocky Bay Beach
Inchydoney Beach
Barleycove Beach The Warren Beach
Figure 1.1 Beach Locations (3)
These beaches were selected because they are distributed across the extent of the
County Cork coastline. This was advantageous to this project, as it will enable the
highest level of variability in the environmental conditions collected to form part of
this study in order to ensure that a repetitive sample of Irish beaches were used in this
research.
This report investigates the existing beach classification models, the information
required to carry out a beach classification which include the wave climate, tidal
range, beach slope, sediment size and a visual assessment to identify sandbars or rips
and how the data may be obtained. The collected data and findings for each of the
beaches is then presented and a classification of the beachs is made based on the
knowledge and information learned about the beachs, highlighting the reasons for the
beaches classification and the parameters they may have failed to meet and why this
occurred.

Classification of Irish Beaches The Irish Coastline
2.0 The Irish Coastline

Irelands coastline is a valuable resource to the Irish economy. It is estimated that
59% of the Irish population lives within 50km of the coastline (4). It is acts as a source
of income through the many fishing ports, marinas, surf schools and sailing schools
located along the coast, it provides an important amenity to local population and a
tourist attraction.
Figure 2.1 Irish Coastline (5)

The coastline by its nature is a very dynamic zone, which is tasked with the
dissipation of energy from sea and swell waves. The coastal zone environment is
continuously changing as it reacts to changing weather conditions.
Figure 2.2 Waves at Lahinch Co. Clare (6)

The coastline naturally resists erosion in very different ways depending on its
geographical location and the environmental conditions present at a particular point of
the coastline. There are areas that are protected by hard coastline; these areas protect
the coast through the natural hardwearing rocks that are present in Ireland such as
sandstone and limestone. These areas will erode slowly over time through processes
such as wave impact and freeze-thaw action. The erosion of these hard coastlines
provides a valuable source of sediment, which helps soft coastline to resist erosion.
The way in which soft coastlines or beaches resist erosion is much more complex,
they act naturally to reduce and dissipate the energy in waves and tides in order to
resist erosion and maintain the coastline. Factors such as tide, wave, sediment, seabed
bathymetry, vegetation, currents and beach profile will all have a major bearing on the
form of the beach.
Beaches will change over time depending on the conditions that they have to cope
with, this will lead to changing sediment levels where some beaches the sediment can
be completely removed of over the winter months and it is then replaced over the
spring and summer to return the beach to its natural state, an example of such a beach
is Rocky Bay Beach near Nohoval in County Cork.
Figure 2.3 Rocky Bay Beach January & October 2010 (7)
The Irish coastal protection strategy study (ICPSS) became the responsibility of the
OPW on the 1st of January 2009 (8)
at which time they became responsible for the
undertaking risk assessments associated with coastal flooding, coastal erosion and the
future development of the ICPSS as well as the maintenance of coastal protection

schemes constructed under the Coast Protection Act, 1963. The ICPSS south coast of
(9)
Ireland was completed and published in 2011 . The area in this study covers the
coastline from Rosslare Harbour in County Wexford to Bantry Bay in County Cork.
Figure 2.4 ICPSS South Coast (9)

The ICPSS developed coastal flood maps and erosion maps based on the modelling of
extreme water level predictions. The maps produced enable areas where high levels of
erosion are predicted to be, so it can be effectively managed in order to reduce the
extent of the erosion before it can occur.
Figure 2.5 2030 Erosion Map for the Old Head of Kinsale (9)
The ICPSS uses the study of aerial photographs from 1973 to 2006 to map how the
coastline has changed over that period and to predict future erosion rates. Beach
classification is different in that it is a method of identifying the type of beach based
on all the information that can be gathered. The classified beach can then be compared
to other similar beaches.

Classification of Irish Beaches Beach Classification Models
3.0 An Introduction to Beach Classification Models

Beach classification models are a means of identifying and understanding the factors
that combine to form beaches. Beaches are an integral means of protecting the
coastline from erosion by dissipating the kinetic energy of the sea. There are many
factors that will effect the formation of the beach and these will affect the ability of
the beach to dissipate the energy and protect against erosion of the coastline.
Wave climate is one of the most important factors in the formation of a beach, as the
requirement to dissipate the kinetic energy contained in the waves impacting the
beach, will influence the type of beach and how sediment is deposited and removed
from the beach and is likely to vary between winter and summer.
3.1. Development of Methodology

The modern methodology for understanding the sedimentology and morphology that
occur on beaches has been developed over the last 60 years. Work has been carried
out in many countries including Australia, England and Wales.
Work first began in Australia by McKenzie in 1956 to understand their beaches using
this method of researching the morphological process that are present at beaches in
Sydney. He used wave climate, sand bar, and rip currents to describe the different
conditions present on these beaches (10).
In the 1970s a systematic system of research into Australian beaches was began to
establish a broader understanding of their coastline, with Bruce Thom carrying out
monthly surveys of Moruya Beach in New South Wales in 1972 and were still being
conducted as of May 2005 and Ian Eliot carrying out a year long study of the rip
currents present at Durras Beach in New South Wales, he also monitored the changes
in the beach profile at Warilla Beach (10).
Wright and Short created the first beach model following the surveying of beaches
(10)
around Australia in 1984 . This model was developed to reflect the various

conditions on the wave dominated (microtidal) beaches that were surveyed. This
model may also be referred to as the Australian beach model, and was later expanded
over time to include tide modified and tide dominated beaches.
Work on the Australian beaches is still on going and has been funded continually by
Surf Life Saving Australia and also by other research schemes which reflects the
value that has been placed on this research which has and will continue to contribute
to add to the knowledge of the beachs in Australia and directly reduce the loss of
lives at beaches by informing people of the conditions present.
At present there are 15 different beach types in the Australian beach classification
model (11), 6 are wave dominated and typically have a low tidal range of under 1.5m, 3
are tide modified where the spring tide range is three to ten times bigger that the
average breaking wave, 4 are tide dominated where the spring tide range is ten to fifty
times bigger that the average breaking wave and 2 are influenced by intertidal rocks
and fringing reefs, these two groups represent only 4% of the beaches in Australia (11).
Figure 3.1 Beach Type Distribution in Australia (11)

The Australian beach model is presented out in Table 1.
Table 1 Australian Beach Model (11)
In 2011 the University of Plymouth published a paper titled Morphodynamic

(12)
Characteristics and Classification of Beaches in England and Wales , in which
beaches from England and Wales were surveyed to enable the development of a
Classification model for the region.

Figure 3.2 Locations Used in the English and Welsh Research (12)
This model was created based on the knowledge gained from the work carried out in
Australia with Andrew Short taking part in the project. Work began in 2007 (12) with
data being gathered on beaches in the area which included, wave and tide data,
sediment sampling, beach profile surveying and the identifying of beach features such
as single or multiple sand bars, rips and the presence of vegetation on the beach.
Information was gathered from various reliable sources as well as being carried out
specifically for the project.
In total 92 beaches (12) formed part of the research for the project after which it was
(12)
determined based on an 80% similarity that there were 9 different beach types
among those surveyed as set out in Table 2.
The wide variance in the beach models developed for England and Wales compared to
the one developed for Australia highlights the influence that the geographical
variation has on the design of a Beach Classification Model.

Table 2 England and Wales Beach Classification Model (12)
The full descriptions of the beaches in each of the groups in Table 2 are given in the
paper titled Morphodynamic Characteristics and Classification of Beaches in
(12)
England and Wales , the information relevant to this project contained in those
descriptions and that document (12) are as follows:
Group 1: Reflective (low-energy): R(LE). Highly reflective, steeply sloping beaches,

beach sediment is characterised by medium to coarse gravel on the upper and lower
beach face (>50% gravel). These beaches typically comprise a step feature at the base
of the swash zone and beach cusps may also be present on the upper beach,
occasionally fronted by a shallow sub-tidal terrace.
Group 2: Reflective (high-energy): R(HE). Reflective, steeply sloping beaches.

Sediment sizes range from medium sand to gravel (1015% gravel). This group
incorporates low to high energy beaches with a greater exposure to long period swell
waves.

Group 3: Linear sub-tidal barred: STB. These intermediate beaches have a

predominantly reflective beach face and are characterised by the presence of a linear
sub-tidal bar and shoreward alongshore trough or terrace, which extends to the foot of
the reflective upper beach. Bar formations can occasionally exist in the lower
intertidal zone. Beach sediments are typically composed of medium to coarse sand.
Group 4: Low-tide terrace/non-barred dissipative (low-energy): LTT-D(LE). This

group represents variants of a low-tide terrace morphotype characterised by a distinct
break in slope marking a transition from a steep reflective upper beach to highly
featureless dissipative lower beach, with no significant bar formations. Sediment size
ranges from medium-to-coarse sand to gravel in the upper beach with the gravel
fraction reaching up to 50% in some cases, and a lower beach of fine- to-medium sand
with the coarse fraction occasionally reaching up to 25%.
Group 5: Low-tide terrace and rip: LTT + R. These high energy intermediate beaches
have a low-tide terrace form in addition to three-dimensional bar systems within the
lower inter-tidal and sub-tidal zones, often characterised by rip current activity. They
comprise of composite steep reflective upper and intermediate/dissipative flat lower
beach slopes. Sediments are medium sand size with negligible coarse material (< 5%).
Importantly, the wave climate is characterised by significantly higher energy than
Group 4.
Group 6: Low-tide bar rip: LTBR. These macrotidal beaches can be considered
dissipative in overall nature with significant low-tide bar/rip systems and limited but
occasional berm development. Beach sediments are commonly seaward fining, well
sorted, medium to coarse sand. Occasionally a relict or limited local gravel fraction is
present as part of a steeper upper beach section. Although common in overall slope,
this group exhibits a range of profile forms from those approaching a low-tide terrace
to those closer to a dissipative beach. This group represents the largest sample group
in the England and Wales study, Low-tide bar and rip current morphologies display
many characteristics of high-energy barred micro to mesotidal intermediate beaches.
Group 7: Non-barred dissipative (high-energy): NBD(HE). These beaches are almost

entirely dominated by a flat, wide, featureless intertidal zone. Beach slopes are very

gentle and composed of homogeneous fine to medium sands. In some cases, a

relatively small reflective coarse upper beach may be present due to locally derived or
relict coarse sediments. Beaches in this group are located on high-energy swell wave
dominated coasts.
Group 8: Multiple inter-tidal barred: MITB. These beaches are typically characterised
by very gentle slopes with large intertidal widths and also by a series of shore-parallel
bars (36) that are dissected by shore perpendicular drainage channels that occur
throughout the intertidal zone. The height of the intertidal bars does not exceed 1 m.
Sites occur in environments where sand is fine-to-medium throughout (samples from
bar crests). These beaches are typically found in low-energy wave climates. The
occurrence of multiple inter-tidal barred beaches appears to be associated with
abundant sediment sources, often in proximity to ebb-tide deltas of estuaries occurring
throughout the coastal regions.
Group 9: Transition to tidal flats: TTF. These sites have flat and very wide intertidal
zones with shallow slopes and no bars. The lower intertidal zone of these beaches can
be even flatter. The beach sediment is typically medium sand in the upper beach and
fine to very fine sand on the lower beach. This group represents a small sample of
beaches limited to the megatidal Bristol Channel region (MSR = 9.7 m). Beach sites
are largely tidally dominated as low-energy wave conditions commonly occur in
channels and mouths of large estuaries/inlets associated extremely high tidal ranges.
Due to the extent of the tidal range, the surf zone regimes of these beaches vary
greatly from high- to low-tide. Lower beach gradients, and very wide surf zones at
lower tides drive breaker height down due to bed friction increasing the tidal
dominance. While at high-tide, a reduction in wave attenuation and surf zone width
can lead to a more intermediate surf zone character associated with a steeper beach
face.

3.2. Developing a Beach Classification Model for Ireland

In order to develop a beach classification model for Ireland it is necessary to consider
the models that already exist, the most relevant model would be the model set out for
England and Wales as was used in the research carried out by Aidan O Connell titled
(2)
Classification of Beaches to Determine their Potential for Erosion . This project
classified two beaches in County Cork as a basis to develop a methodology to
determine a beachs erosion potential.
The use of the England and Wales model for Ireland has never been researched,
validated or modified in any way for use in Ireland. The use of the parameters and
values given the England and Wales model within Ireland will not have the same
significance as using it in England or Wales as the model is tailored to the conditions
found at each of the beaches in the England and Wales research and not for Ireland.
The conditions will be different in Ireland due to the different geographical position
on earth.
These conditions for example include large tidal ranges that are experienced on some
beaches in England and Wales, wave climate may also be different as Ireland is more
exposed to waves coming directly from the Atlantic ocean.
To develop a beach classification model that is designed for the environmental

conditions in Ireland, Irish beaches must be researched and included on the model.
This may be achieved by conducting researching on Irish beaches and classifying
them based on the description and environmental parameters in the England and
Wales model, placing more emphasis on matching the description than the
environmental parameters as they are likely to be different to those found on beaches
in Ireland.
Once an Irish beach is placed in a particular Group on the model the environmental
parameters for that beach will form the basis for typical parameters for that beach
group in the model. Once more than one beach is found to be in the same group a
range of values can be produced and developed.

Classification of Irish Beaches Elements of a Beach Classification Model
4.0 Elements of a Beach Classification Model
4.1. Introduction
Beaches are made up of many different environmental characteristics some of which
will be common across all beaches and others will only be present on specific beach
types. The characteristics considered in the classification are slope, sediment and the
presence of sandbars, rip currents, vegetation, cusps and terraces.
Beaches along the coast are subject to the continuous release of energy contained in
gravity waves such as sea and swell and tidal waves. The result of the release and
dissipation of energy is gradual erosion over time. Ship generated waves will also
have an impact on the coastline in busy ship estuaries which may increase the rate of
erosion.
4.2. Tidal Range

The changing water level on a beach due to tide is a very important variable in the
make up of a beach eco-system. The beach will reflect the difference in the tides
maximum and minimum levels by the combination of the length of the intertidal zone
and slope of the beach.
The tidal action on a beach will vary from location to location due to the interaction of
the sun and the moon and in the case of Ireland it is also dependant on the interaction
of tidal waves flowing around both sides of the island of Ireland which results in a
reduced tidal differential towards the south east of the country.
The tide is a wave with a long period, which is caused by the gravitational forces of
the sun and moon on the bodies of water on earth. When the sun and moon are aliened
with the earth it will cause the highest high and the lowest low tides to occur which
are termed spring tides, the mean difference of the spring tides or MSR (Mean Spring
Range) is used to quantify the tidal range for use in a classification model.

4.3. Wave Climate

The wave climate will have a major impact on the sediment on the beach as well as
the shape of the beach as the beach formation will reflect the amount of energy that it
needs to dissipate and reflect. The interaction of waves and the bathymetry of the
beach may lead to the formation of terraces or sandbars on a beach depending on
when the waves break releasing the sediment that was being carried by the waves.
The wave climate on a beach is more difficult to obtain, as it is not as predictable as

the tide due to the large number of variables that contribute to the local wave climate.
These variables include the initial deep water wave height, period and direction, the
wind speed and direction, the bathometry of the local area, the water depth and the
tide level.
Figure 4.1 Waves Approaching Barleycove Beach 03-03-14
4.4. Slope
The beach slope will vary from beach to beach, as it is dependent on the seabed and
the tide and wave climate as well as the typography of the land adjacent to the beach.
Figure 4.2 shows the way in which the beach slope is determined.
Figure 4.2 Beach Slope (13)

4.5. Beach Sediment

The type of sediment on a beach will vary from location to location depending on
sediment supply. The sediment found on beaches is generally non-cohesive granular
sediment that varies from very fine sand to large gravel.
The sediment supply on a beach is also likely to vary over the course of the year,
which will result in different sediment levels and sediment types being present on a
beach. This is the case with Rocky Bay Beach whereby the sandy sediment is
removed from the beach over the autumn and winter period and is replaced in the
spring and the summer.
Sediment may be supplied to a beach via rivers where sediment is carried from inland
to the coast, along the shoreline by long shore transport and from offshore carried by
currents, the different processed that provide sediment to the coastline are illustrated
by the green arrows and sediment sinks are illustrated by the red arrows as shown in
Figure 4.3.
Figure 4.3 Littoral Cell (14)
The size and shape of the sediment will affect how the beach will react to the
environmental impacts from wind, waves and tide. Smaller sediments will be more
susceptible to movement leading to long shore drift and erosion and larger sediment

such as gravel have a greater ability to resist movement induced by the impacts of
wind and waves.
4.6. Sandbars
Sandbars are deposits of sand that may be fully or partly submerged dependant on the
tide level and the water depth at the location of the sand bar. They occur when the
sediment being transported by the sea is deposited as the water velocity slows down
reducing the waters ability to transport sediment.
Figure 4.4 Underwater Sandbar (15)

Sandbars can have a major bearing on a beach as they cause waves to break before
they reach the beach, which will reduce the energy carried by the wave onto the
beach. A linear sand bar is shown in Figure 4.5 and multiple sandbars are shown in
Figure 4.6.
Figure 4.5 Linear Sandbar (16)

Figure 4.6 Multiple Sandbars in Japan (17)
4.7. Rips
Rips are very dangerous naturally occurring currents that flow away from a beach.
Rips occur when the water flowing towards a beach is trapped behind a sandbar. The
water will then flow towards a low point in the sandbar and flows back out to deeper
water. The waves flowing over the sandbar will replenish the water above the sand bar
causing the cycle to be repeated.
Figure 4.7 Rip Current Formation (15)

When rips are present on a beach they can be seen by looking for zones of water
flowing away from shore beach, these zones typically look calmer than the areas
where the water is flowing towards the beach because the rip currents causes wave

heights to reduce resulting in the waves breaking later. This makes the area look
calmer than the other areas of the beach.
Figure 4.8 Beach Rip (18)
4.8. Cusps
Beach cusps are likely to occur on a beach with a steep slope and non-breaking waves
that arrive perpendicular to the beach. When a wave arrives at the beach the water will
run up the beach, the term given to it is swash, the difference between the highest and
lowest point of the swash is called the swash length. The length of the swash and the
slope of the beach will determine the size of the cusps. (19)
Figure 4.9 Cusps (20)

4.9. Terraces
A terrace occurs on a beach when the slope of the beach changes over its cross
section. The slope may change due to the interaction effect of the tide on the waves;
the changing water level caused by the tide will cause the waves to break at different
locations.
Figure 4.10 Terrace (20)
4.10. Vegetation
Vegetation may be found growing on parts of the beach that is located above high
water level. Vegetation growing on or around a beach can will have a major bearing
on preventing sediment from moving when subjected to the environmental impacts of
wave and tide actions as well as the wind. The root base of the vegetation will help to
create a protective layer by binding the sediment particles together that will prevent
sediment from being transported to different areas of the beach as well as on and off
shore, this will help to provide a stability to the upper parts of the beach which will
provide stability to the overall beach ecosystem.
Figure 4.11 Beach Vegetation (21)

Classification of Irish Beaches Beach Data Collection
5.0 Beach Data Collection
5.1. Introduction
The data that needs to be collected to classify a beach needs to be carried out in an
accurate, consistent and safe manor. The data that needs to be collected is:
1. Tide, MSR (Mean spring range)
2. Wave, Hs (Significant wave height) and Tm (Mean time period)
3. Beach slope
4. Sediment size, D50
5. The presence of beach features such as sandbars, cusps, rips and vegetation.
6. Visual and desk studies
The steps required to collect and produce this data is detailed in this chapter and
implemented to produce the information presented in chapters 0 to 11.0.
5.2. Research Locations

The locations chosen for this study are along the south coast of Ireland and are all
within the boundary of County Cork. Six beaches are studied as part of this project,
two of the beaches, Inch Beach and Youghal Beach were previously studied as part of
a project that was completed in 2013 (2), the other four beaches have not been studied
in this manner previously. The locations of the six beaches in this project are shown in
Figure 5.1 Beach Locations.
Youghal Beach
Inch Beach
Rocky Bay Beach
Inchydoney Beach
Barleycove Beach The Warren Beach
Figure 5.1 Beach Locations (3)

These beaches were selected because they are distributed across the extent of the
County Cork coastline. This was necessary, as it will enable the highest levels of
variability in the conditions present at each of the beaches selected to form part of this
study in order to ensure that a repetitive sample of Irish beached were used in this
research.
5.3. Tide Data

The tide data required for the classification of a beach is the MSR (Mean spring
range). It can be calculated by using the admiralty tide tables. This is set out by
defining predictions for major ports and provided adjustments in order to calculate the
water levels at secondary ports along the coastline. As the beaches included in this
research are along the cork coastline the tidal range will vary from location to
location. To determine the tidal range for a beach the closest location given in the
admiralty tide tables should be chosen, in a case where two locations are the same
distance from the beach the average value is taken as being the best estimate of the
tidal rang at the beach. The tidal range at each beach may be calculated by applying
secondary port adjustments to the MHWS (Mean high water spring) and the MLWS
(Mean low water spring) values for the major port and then calculating the difference
in these values to determine the mean tidal range.
5.4. Wave Data

The most accurate way of collecting wave data at a beach would be to install a wave
buoy just off shore from the beach that would collect data on the wave activity at the
beach over a long period in order to give a representative image of the wave climate at
the beach. However due to the time constraints in completing this project as well as
the difficulty and cost of placing a wave buoy at each of the locations in this study
was not a feasible method to determine the wave climate at the beaches.
This means that a method for transferring the wave data collected from one of the off
shore wave buoys needs to be employed. This can be done by using linear equations
to calculate wave height in shallow water but does not take the effects of headlands on

the waves, for this reason it is specified in the England and wales model to use a
modelling software as the most accurate way of calculating the wave climate at the
beaches where no local wave data is available.
The MIKE Zero modelling software was selected in the England and Wales model as
the most accurate way of calculating the wave climate at the beach. MIKE Zero is
software for water environments, it is used to model and simulate water in various
scenarios in Civil Engineering, which include hydrology, flooding, Urban Water,
wastewater treatment plants and 2D and 3D coast and sea environments. The module
of the software relevant to this project is Mike 21 which carries out the modelling in
the coastal and sea environment, more specifically MIKE 21 SW will be used to carry
out the wave transformations from deep water where is it recorded using wave buoys
to the shallow water at the relevant beaches for use in the classification model. This
model uses bathymetry of the area around the beach to model the effects of the
seabed, land and wave direction to determine the resultant wave climate at the beach.
An example of the output is shown in Figure 5.2, which shows the propagation of the
wave into the harbour and it can be seen to reduce as the effects of the land cause the
wave to shoal towards the land.
Figure 5.2 Mike 21 Wave Model Example (22)

There are two different ways to create the bathymetry model for use in Mike 21 using
software developed by Mike. The most accurate, quickest and user friendly method is
(23)
to use Mike C-Map which uses C-Map digital charts produced by Jeppesen to
extract the data required to create the bathymetry model of water depths and areas.
This method is the most accurate way of creating bathymetry. However the Mike C-
Map software is not provided as part of the student package provided by the DHI for
use on this research.
This required that the bathymetry be created from scratch using the Mesh Generator in
Mike 21. The Mesh Generation enables the importation of a background image
around which the land/sea boundary can be drawn as shown in Figure 5.3.
Figure 5.3 Land/ Sea Boundaries

Land boundaries are identified the default boundary code while open boundary lines
are change to code 2 which tells the software that there is a flow of water across this
boundary and the waves are not reflected. The Mesh can then be generated with in
the defined boundary and smoothed to create a more symmetric triangulation within
the mesh. The resulting mesh is shown in Figure 5.4.

Figure 5.4 Generated Mesh
Once the mesh is generated the next step is to import a scatter data file, which
includes the coordinates of points in the area and the corresponding depth, the file
needs to be in .xyz format and needs to be created by utilising admiralty charts to
estimate water depth at particular coordinates.
Figure 5.5 .xyz Scatter File for Barleycove
Once the scatter file has been imported into the mesh generator the interpolation
process can take place, this process takes the scatter point information and interpolates
between the mesh and the scatter data to produce the levels at each node in the mesh,
the result is shown in Figure 5.6.

Figure 5.6 Bathymetry Output
This can be then companied with the original paper chart to identify any areas that
need to be improved or changed in order to create a bathymetry that is as accurate as
possible using this method.
Figure 5.7 Admiralty Chart Extract (24)
The bathymetry can then be exported to create the bathymetry file to be used in mike
21. The wave climate at Inchydoney Beach is calculated using Mike 21 SW to model
the wave climate near the beach taking the effects of the land and the bathymetry of
the area into account.

The wave climate is accessed at a depth of 8-10 meters as set out in the England and
Wales beach classification model and the purpose of the model the tide level was set
at 2 meters across all the beaches. The inputs parameters used in the models are the
long-term average values for the wave climate recorded at the weather buoy M3 off
the coast of Cork determined from the raw dataset downloaded from marine.ie (25).
The wave climate used in the model is as follows:

Wave Height 2.69 m
Wave period 6.63 sec
Wave direction 262
Wind speed 13.5 kn
Wind direction 222
Figure 5.8 shows the result of running the simulation using a 1-meter wave height into
Barleycove.
Figure 5.8 Wave Propagation into Barleycove

5.5. Beach Slope

The Slope of the beach is determined by conducting a survey of the beach using
GNSS (Global Navigation Satellite System) to record the levels on a number of cross
sections along the beach. The beach surveys will be completed in real time ITM (Irish
Transverse Mercator) to ensure the highest possible accuracy.
The equipment required to carry out a survey of the beach slope are listed below and
are shown in Figure 5.9.
Hiper Pro base Hiper Pro rover
Topcon Logger x 2 Surveying pole
Tripod Tribrak
Hiper Pro support bar Logger support bracket
Connection cables Logger to Hiper Pro
Measuring tape Surveying nails
Marking paint Cable ties
Figure 5.9 Equipment required for beach slope surveys
A copy of the Topcon tools 8 software and a licence dongle are also required to carry
out the post processing of static data and the conversion of text survey files to
AutoCAD drawings.

The first step is to establish a base point (two where possible) at each of the beaches
to be surveyed over which static data will be recorded to determine the location of the
base point. Two points are established as it will allow the accuracy of the survey to be
checked and also ensure that there is a contingency point should one be damaged or
removed during the course of this project.
It is necessary to record the static data for a minimum of 1 hour as shown in Figure
5.10. The static data then needs to be post processed and adjusted using the Topcon
tools software and Rinex data from the OSI to determine the exact coordinates of the
two points, which is required to set up the base station for the surveying step.
Figure 5.10 Static Data Collection at Barleycove Beach

The coordinates then need to be converted from ETRF89 to Ireland ITM for use in the
set up of the base station. This step corrects the difference in the height of the datum
between the two coordinate systems.
Figure 5.11 Coordinate Conversion (1)

To survey the beach the base unit is set up at one of the base points established at the
beach, and a new My Hiper Pro Job created on the logger, the adjusted coordinates
can then be entered and the base started. Next the rover unit needs to be connected to
the logger and setup the correct settings in the topo survey screen.
Once the surveying equipment has been set up the survey of the beach cross sections
can then be carried out. It is necessary to survey straight lines perpendicular to the
beach. Survey lines should be taken across the width of the beach as necessary to
establish an accurate picture of the beach slope. Figure 5.12 and Figure 5.13 shows
rocky bay beach and the survey lines taken on the beach as part of this project.
Figure 5.12 Rocky Bay Beach Aerial Image (3)
Figure 5.13 Rocky Bay Survey Lines

5.6. Sediment Size Analysis

Sediment samples of 1-2 kg were taken from the beaches during the surveys in order
to determine the D50 of the sediment. The sediment is analysed using the particle size
analysis experiment set out in BS1377 part 2.
This is achieved by carrying out a sieve analysis of the sediment and then plotting the
results on form 2n of BS1377 part 2, the d50 of the sediment determined from the
graph.
Figure 5.14 Sediment Size Analysis Apparatus (26)

In Figure 5.15 the different grain sizes that make up the sediment can be clearly seen
when they are placed back together on a tray.
Figure 5.15 Grain Size Composition

5.7. Desk and Visual Beach Study

Information about the beach can also be collected by identifying features of the beach
visually around that beach and by conducting a desk study.
By visually studying a beach features that exist on the beach can be identified when
work is being carried out on the beach as part of the project, which occurs at the time
of the surveys (conducted at low tide) or the collection on the static data (conducted at
any tide level). The presence of features such as sandbars, rips, cusps and vegetation
can be identified during the visual study.
An example of this is the rip current identified on Barleycove beach at the time the
static data was being collected, it can be seen in the centre of Figure 5.16 as an area of
calmer water but crucially the water is rushing away from shore which reduces the
wave height causing them to break later causing the water to appear calmer in the area
where the rip current is present. This is however a very dangerous feature of any
beach and one that is often hard to identify.
Figure 5.16 Rip Current at Barleycove Beach
The presence of rips may also be identified by examining the sediment at the beach,
this can be used to identify the presence of rip currents, for example at Youghal beach
as can be seen in Figure 5.17 there was a sand bar just above the low tide level that
contained low areas every 20 to 30 meters, these low areas are caused by rip currents
that are only present at a particular tidal range.

Figure 5.17 Rip Current Trails at Youghal Beach
However a beach will change over time, some features or characteristics may only be
present at a beach intermittently or at certain times of the year.
In order to collect information on the beaches in different states a desk study is carried
out, using various information sources such as Google Maps, Apple Maps and OSI
maps to view the beach at different times in the past, searchs on events at the beaches
such as extreme erosion rates or other news reports are also useful in providing
imagery of the beaches to identify features at the beachs.
This enables the beach to be examined in previous states as can be seen in Figure 5.18
which shows the Warren Beach in its current state and the beach before work was
carried out to prevent the erosion of the beach sediment.
Figure 5.18 Warren Beach before and after Coastal Protection Works (1) (27)

Classification of Irish Beaches Beach Data Collected
6.0 Barleycove Beach
6.1. Site Description

Barleycove Beach is one of the finest sandy beaches in West Cork. It is located near
the Mizen head lighthouse. It compromises of a large sand deposit that forms the
beach that naturally helps protect the sand deposits from being transported offshore,
however over the last number for years the beach has suffered from excessive
amounts of erosion leading to concerns of its future and calls for steps to be taken to
protect the amenity. It is a very popular attraction to members of the local community
and tourists who travel from all areas of Cork to relax at the beach.
Figure 6.1 Barleycove Beach (27)
6.2. Location
Barleycove beach is located in the south west of Ireland near Mizen Head at: 5128'2.
14"N, 946'35. 92"W. Access to the beach is via the public car park to the north east
of the beach via the floating pontoon bridge or via the Barleycove hotel grounds to the
west of the beach for hotel and villa guests. The beach has been formed with a due
south aspect with a river crossing behind the beach and entering the Atlantic Ocean to
the east of the beach.

6.3. Desk Study

When reviewing the aerial imagery available for the area around Barleycove Beach
has changed greatly over the last 200 years with the historic 6 mapping from 1829-
41 showing the river emerging at the left hand side of the map as shown in Figure 6.2
Figure 6.2 Historic map of Barleycove beach Circa 1829-41 (1)

However by the time the 25 mapping was carried out between 1897-1913 river had
meandered with the map showing the river emerging in the middle of the current
beach with the sandbar making the current beach starting to develop from the left and
the creating an island in the middle as shown in Figure 6.3
Figure 6.3 Historic Map of Barleycove Circa 1897-1913 (1)

Over the past 20 years the beach has remained largely the same with images from
1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010-2014 showing the beach to have maintained the same area
of vegetation on the sand bars and dunes the make up the beach.
Further research about the beach suggests that its large sand dunes and hills formed as
a result of the earthquake in 1755 in Lisbon, Portugal. When the earthquake occurred
it caused sand from that region to be transported to in the resulting tsunami to
Barleycove and many other beaches along the Irish coastline.
6.4. Visual Study

On visually studying the beach a rip current was identified at the time of conducting
the static survey on the 24th of April 2014. A rip current was identified at the beach
and can be seen in the area of calm water in the middle of Figure 6.4.
Figure 6.4 Rip Current Visible at Barleycove Beach
There was also a lot of mature vegetation at the beach, which protects the sand dunes
in the upper parts of the beach preventing mass erosion and transport of the sand in
periods of rough weather.

Figure 6.5 Vegetation at Barleycove Beach
6.5. Environmental Parameters
6.5.1. Sediment Size

Barleycove beach has very regular sediment composition with no material above
coarse sand in the sample taken and very little variation was observed across the
beach at the time of the survey. After collecting a sample, drying and conducting a
sieve analysis, the sediments d50 was found to be 0.23mm. The particle size
distribution curve is presented in Appendix C.
Figure 6.6 Barleycove Beach
6.5.2. Beach Slope

Barleycove Beach has very distinct terraces along the cross-section of the beach; there
is a very shallow nearshore with a slight sand bar formation in places across the
beach, a steep foreshore and a shallow backshore. This can be seen in the beach
profiles presented in Appendix D. The nearshore has a slope of 0.72 (1:79.6), while
the foreshore has a slope of 6 (1:9.5), the backshore has a slope of 1.5 (1:38.2).

6.5.3. Tidal Range

The tidal range Determined for Crookhaven is the closest secondary port to
Barleycove Beach. The village of crook haven is located only 3km east of Barleycove
Beach. It was found that the MSR for the area is 3m. The tidal range calculations are
presented in Appendix E.
6.5.4. Wave Climate

The wave climate results from the MIKE 21 sw model are shown in Figure 6.8 &
Figure 6.9 for the water depth set shown in Figure 6.7. The wave climate for this area
could be calculated using the linear equations as presented in Appendix G as the angle
between the approaching waves and the seabed contours were <90. The results are
smaller that those produced by the MIKE 21 wave model but they are not
significantly different, H=0.73m as apposed to 1m.
Figure 6.7 Water Depth at LAT+2
The wave height in Figure 6.9 is the average wave height at Barleycove Beach due to
an average wave being input into the model, as such to calculate the significant wave
height the average wave is divided by 0.626 to give a wave height of 1.6m in 10m of
water at Barleycove Beach.

Figure 6.8 Wave Period
Figure 6.9 Wave Height
6.6. Summary of Beach Characteristics

The table bellow shows the summary of results for Barleycove Beach.
Table 3 Barleycove Results
Beach Tide Wave Slope D50 Rip Sandbar

(m) T (s) H (m) Hs (m) (Degrees) (mm)
Barleycove 3m 5.25 1 1.6 0.72 .23 YES YES

7.0 The Warren Beach

The Warren Beach is located south of the village of Rosscarbery in West Cork. It is a
natural sandy beach that has been protected with riprap water breaks to counteract the
erosion that was occurring at the beach. It now provides a natural barrier against
erosion as well as an invaluable amenity to the residents of the area. There is also a
pitch and putt course located at the north side of the beach.
Figure 7.1 The Warren Beach (27)
7.2. Location
The Warren beach is located near the village of Rosscarbery Co. Cork at
5133'53.64"N, 9 0'50.61"W. Access to the beach is gained via the public car park
and walkways that are located adjacent to the beach.
7.3. Desk Study

The Warren Beach was being eroded badly in the early 2000; the beach in the year
2000 is shown in Figure 7.2.

Figure 7.2 Warren Beach Circa 2000 (1)

After the coastal protection works were installed on the beach, the beach has changed
dramatically as can be seen in the 2005 OSI imagery shown in Figure 7.4. The image
was taken at low tide unlike Figure 7.2 but the feint outline of the breakwaters can be
made out along with the new beach shape.

From 2005 to 2012 the beach profile has remained very similar but the revetment
structures have darkened through the weathering effects of the coastal environment as
can be seen when comparing Figure 7.3 and Figure 7.4.

Further research reviled that the coastal erosion protection works were included in the
Irish Governments 2003 expenditure program (28), the total approved expenditure for
the project was 160000, with 120000 being provided by the DCMNR (Department
of Marine and Natural Resources).
Figure 7.5 Warren Beach before and after Coastal Protection Works (1)

7.4. Visual Study

The visual study of the beach was carried out on the 24th of April 2014 and confirms
the findings of the desk study by showing that coastal protection structures have been
successful in reshaping and increasing sediment levels at the beach as can be seen in
where the new beach profile is now covering a portion of the handrail on the access
way leading to the beach. The raised sediment level can also be seen on the life ring in
the far of the picture, as it is now much lower than it would have been when it was
erected. The gabion boxes along the back of the right section of the beach provide a
barrier to prevent further erosion occurring.
Figure 7.6 Warren Beach Raised Sediment Levels

The raised sediment levels are also evident behind the breakwaters as can be seen in
Figure 7.7 and the lower portion of Figure 7.8.
Figure 7.7 Warren Beach Breakwater

Figure 7.8 Warren Beach Breakwater 2
7.5. Environmental Parameters collected

The Warren Beach has a mainly sandy beach with areas of fine to medium gravel at
the top of the beach. The gravel is typically underlain by sand. The sample taken has a
fine to medium sand content with a small portion of fine to medium gravel. After
collecting a sample, drying and conducting a sieve analysis, the sediments d50 was
found to be 0.17mm. The particle size distribution curve is presented in Appendix C.
Figure 7.9 Warren Beach Sediment

7.5.2. Beach Slope

The Warren Beach has a very regular slope in the areas around the coastal protection
structures. The structures have caused sediment to build up behind them and between
them to revitalise the beach and prevent erosion from occurring. Evidence of this can
be seen in the beach profiles presented in Appendix D, particularly in the profiles near
the coastal protection structures, profile 1 shows the most natural and unaffected
beach state where the beach is relatively flat and would have a very steep terrace at
the back of the beach before the breakwaters were put in place to retain sediment.
Taking this into account the beach has a naturally uniform slope across its length of
1.7 (1:33.7).
7.5.3. Tidal Range

The tidal range calculated for the Warren is taken as the mean of the range calculated
for Castletownshend and Clonakilty Bay. As the Warren beach is located halfway
along the coast between castletownshend and Clonakilty the mean value is a sufficient
estimate of the tidal range at Warren Beach. It was found that the MSR for the area is
3.2m. The tidal range calculations are presented in Appendix E.
7.5.4. Wave Climate

Figure 7.12 for the water depth set shown in Figure 7.10. The wave climate for this
area could be calculated using the linear equations as presented in Appendix G as the
angle between the approaching waves and the seabed contours were <90. The results
are smaller that those produced by the MIKE 21 wave model but they are not
significantly different, H=1.26 m as apposed to 1.4m.


The wave height in Figure 7.12 is the average wave height at Warren Beach due to an
average wave being input into the model, as such to calculate the significant wave
water at Warren Beach.


The table bellow shows the summary of results for the Warren Beach.
Table 4 Warren Beach Results

Warren 3.2m 6.5 1.4 2.34 1.7 .17 No No

8.0 Inchydoney Beach

Inchydoney Beach is a very popular beach for surfing in the West Cork area as well as
a very important tourist attraction through the many holiday homes and the hotel
located adjacent to the beach. Inchydoney Island compromises of about 1000 acres of
(29)
land with the beach protecting it and Clonakilty bay from the effects of the
Atlantic Ocean.
Figure 8.1 Inchydoney Beach (27)
8.2. Location
The beach is located on Inchydoney Island in Clonakilty bay and is connected to the
mainland by two causeways that allow the passage of cars and other vehicles to the
island. It is only a short 6 km drive from the town of Clonakilty Co. Cork at the
coordinates of 5135'43.15"N, 851'57.00"W.
8.3. Desk Study

The desk study reveals that over the last 170 years the beach at Inchydoney has
remained relatively stable. The 6 OSI map does however show that the river entering
the sea from the left side of the beach has meandered closer to the Muckruss side of
the estuary as can be seen when comparing Figure 8.2 and Figure 8.3, increasing the
area of he beach at the Inchydoney Beach.

Figure 8.2 6" OSI map Circa 1829-41 (1)
Figure 8.3 Inchydoney Circa 2005 (1)
The image in Figure 8.4 from circa 2012 shows a very smooth beach with no rip
features present in the sediment but there is some rhythmic lines crossing the beach,
which suggest that there may be some small sandbar formations on the beach.

Figure 8.4 Inchydoney Beach Circa 2012 (27)
8.4. Visual Study

The beach was surveyed on the 24th of July 2014. The beach had a multiple sandbars
running parallel to the shore, there was also one area where evidence of large rip is
evident in the sediment as can be seen in the far corner of the beach in Figure 8.5. The
lines of water running parallel to the beach highlight the valley between the sandbars.
Figure 8.5 Inchydoney Beach on Day of Survey

There is also a lot of vegetation at the backshore of the beach as can be seen in the
right of Figure 8.5, this vegetation protects the sand dunes behind the beach which
helps to maintain the beach profile.
8.5. Environmental Parameters collected

Inchydoney Beach has very regular sediment composition with very little material
above coarse sand in the sample taken and very little variation was observed across
the beach at the time of the survey. After collecting a sample, drying and conducting a
sieve analysis, the sediments d50 was found to be 0.175mm. Figure 8.6 shows the
different sediment sizes that make up the sediment at Inchydoney beach. The particle
size distribution curve is presented in Appendix C.
Figure 8.6 Sieved Inchydoney Sediment

8.5.2. Beach Slope

Inchydoney beach has a very shallow beach slope over its length; it can be observed
from the survey that there are multiple sandbars across the beach length at the time of
the survey, the slope along the entire length is 0.55 (1:104.2) with short sections of 1-
2 rising and falling to create the sand bars. The sand bars create the necessary
conditions for rip currents to be created, which can be seen in the formation sediment
deposition across the beach. The beach profiles are presented in Appendix D.
8.5.3. Tidal Range

The tidal range calculated for Clonakilty bay. It was found that the MSR for the area
is 3.4m. The tidal range calculations are presented in Appendix E.
8.5.4. Wave Height

Figure 8.9 for the water depth set shown in Figure 8.7. The wave climate for this area
could not be calculated using the linear equations as presented in Appendix G as the
angle between the approaching waves and the seabed contours were >90.
The wave height in Figure 8.9 is the average wave height at Inchydoney Beach due to

water at Inchydoney Beach.

The table bellow shows the summary of results for Inchydoney Beach.
Table 5 Inchydoney Beach Results
Inchydoney 3.4m 2.75 1 1.6 0.55 .175 YES YES

9.0 Rocky Bay Beach

Rocky Bay Beach is a small pocket beach located near the village of Nohoval in
County Cork. There has recently been a slipway constructed from the public road
down onto the beach to provide emergency access to the beach as well as a location to
launch boats during high tides.
Figure 9.1 Rocky Bay Beach (27)
9.2. Location
Rocky Bay Beach is located near Nohoval in Co. Cork at the coordinates
5144'2.57"N, 819'50.34"W. There are two access roads that meet at the beach and
also a parking area adjacent to the beach.
9.3. Desk Study

Rocky Bay Beach has been extensively surveyed by CIT over the past number of
years, with the author having taken part in a pervious survey of the beach on the 25th
of November 2010. There is an abundance of photographs and surveys that have been
made available to author by Mr Jim O Byrne of CIT.

Figure 9.2 Rocky Bay Beach 20th October 2009 (7)

Rocky Bay Beach is a very unusual beach in that it exists in two states over a year.
During the spring and summer the beach is covered with a layer of sand, and during
the autumn and winter the sand is striped off the beach to leave large boulders and
gravel covering the beach. Evidence of this changing sediment level and sizes can be
seen in Figure 9.2, Figure 9.3, Figure 9.4 and Figure 9.5.
Figure 9.3 Rocky Bay Beach 22nd November 2009 (7)

Figure 9.4 Rocky Bay Beach 17th January 2010 (7)
Figure 9.5 Rocky Bay Beach 26th November 2010 (7)
By examining aerial imagery of the beach it is clear that from the year 2000 shown in
Figure 9.6 the beach is suffered from erosion to its cliffs when compared to Figure 9.7
and Figure 9.8 which show the beach in 2005 and 2013 respectively.

Figure 9.6 Rocky Bay Beach 2000 (1)

9.4. Visual Study

The survey of Rocky Bay Beach took place on the 25th of June 2014 and the beach
had a sandy sediment covering most of the beach, but there is a coarse gravel portion
in the backshore section of the beach as shown in Figure 9.9.
Figure 9.9 Rocky Bay Beach

There was also a large shore parallel sand bar just above the low tide level as shown
in Figure 9.10. There is however no evidence of rip currents normally found with
sandbars.
Figure 9.10 Rocky Bay Beach Sandbar


Rocky Bay Beach has very regular sediment composition with only 20% of the
material above medium sand in the sample taken and very little variation was
observed across the beach at the time of the survey. After collecting a sample, drying
and conducting a sieve analysis, the sediments d50 was found to be 0.2mm. The
particle size distribution curve is presented in Appendix C.
Figure 9.11 Rocky Bay Sediment Sample
9.5.2. Beach Slope

When the survey was carried out of Rocky Bay Beach a sandbar was observed at the
nearshore section of the beach, above the sandbar the beach had a regular slope until
the beach shore where it got steeper. The beach has a foreshore slope of 1.74 (1:32.9)
the backshore has a slope of 6.4 (1:8.9). The beach profiles are presented in
Appendix D.
9.5.3. Tidal Range

The tidal range calculated for Roberts Cove is the closest secondary port to Rocky bay
Beach. It was found that the MSR for the area is 3.5m. The tidal range calculations are
presented in Appendix E.

9.5.4. Wave Height

area could not be calculated using the linear equations as presented in Appendix G as
the angle between the approaching waves and the seabed contours were >90.

The wave height in Figure 9.14 is the average wave height at Rocky Bay Beach due to
water at Rocky Bay Beach.

The table bellow shows the summary of results for Rocky Bay Beach.
Table 6 Rocky Bay Beach Results
Rocky Bay 3.5m 6.45 0.35 0.56 1.74 0.2 No YES

10.0 Inch Beach

Inch Beach is a sandy beach that is located near Whitegate in County Cork. It is home
to a surf school, which takes advantage of the large predictable waves that come
ashore at the beach. The beach is a relatively narrow pocket type beach with two
minor streams flowing down over the beach. At each side of the beach there is
exposed rock that help to prevent erosion from occurring to the sides of the beach.
From Figure 10.1 it can be seen that the sandy sediment extends far beyond the low
tide level of the beach.
Figure 10.1 Inch Beach (27)
10.2. Location
Inch Beach is located in East Cork at the coordinates 5147'39.51"N, 810'47.82"W.
It has two separate access points to the east and west of the beach and both have
small-unpaved car parks.
10.3. Desk Study

The desk study has revealed that the beach has changed greatly since the 6 mapping
was carried out between 1829-41 as can be seen in Figure 10.2, where the OSI Street
map is used as an overlay to show how the area where inch beachs located has

changed. From the 6 map was created the beach has changed into a pocket beach
through the erosion of the land between the rock faces that is now viable on the beach.
There appears to have been buildings on the right-hand side of the beach that no
longer exist due to the erosion of the coastline.
Figure 10.2 Historic 6" map with Street Map Overlay circa1829-41 (1)
By the time the 25 mapping was created between 1897-1913 the beach was starting
to take its current form as can be seen in Figure 10.3.
Figure 10.3 Historic 25" Map Circa 1897-1913 (1)

10.4. Visual Study

The visual study of the beach was under taken on the 25th of April 2014. The beach is
surrounded by exposed cliffs on both side with very little mature vegetation growing
on them, there is also very little vegetation along the top of the beach to prevent
movement of the sediment or erosion as shown in Figure 10.4 and Figure 10.5.
Figure 10.4 Inch Beach April 2014
Figure 10.5 Inch Beach April 2014


Inch Beach has two very distinct sediment grades with in the sediment. There is a
layer of sand with patches of gravel on top. After collecting a sample, drying and
conducting a sieve analysis, the sediments d50 was found to be 0.25mm. The particle
size distribution curve is presented in Appendix C.
10.5.2. Beach Slope

Inch Beach has a very regular slope with little or no transitions over its cross section,
the average slope of the beach is 1(1:57.3). The beach profiles produced are
presented in Appendix D.
10.5.3. Tidal Range

The tidal range calculated for Cove is the closest port to Inch Beach given in the
admiralty tables. It was found that the MSR for the area is 3.7m. The tidal range
calculations are presented in Appendix E.
10.5.4. Wave Height

area could be calculated using the linear equations as presented in Appendix G as the
angle between the approaching waves and the seabed contours were <90, the results
are larger that those produced by the MIKE 21 wave model but they are not
significantly different, H=2.39m as apposed to 2.23m.

Figure 10.6 Water Depth at LAT+2m

The wave height in Figure 10.8 is the average wave height at Inch Beach due to an
average wave being input into the model, as such to calculate the significant wave
water at Youghal beach.


The table bellow shows the summary of results for Inch Beach.
Table 7 Inch Beach Results
Inch 3.7m 6.47 2.23 3.56 1 .25 No No

11.0 Youghal Beach

Youghal Beach is a very different beach to the other beaches presented in this project
in that it has a very different form, It is a very wide beach stretching along the coast,
in contrast it has a very short distance between the low water level and the back shore
of the beach.
Figure 11.1 Youghal Beach (27)
11.2. Location
Youghal Beach is located near the town of Youghal Co. Cork, near the Cork and
Waterford border at 5156'9.56"N, 751'16.17"W.
11.3. Desk Study

In the following pictures the red cross from the OSI website highlights the way the
coastline has changed along Youghal beach over the last 170 years. The 6 OSI map
shown in Figure 11.2 that there is a significant distance between the back shore and
the red cross marked in the image.

Figure 11.2 Historic 6" Map circa 1829-41 (1)
However by the time the 25 mapping shown in Figure 11.4 was created the beach
had suffered significant erosion in this area. There was nearly 86 meters of the coast
eroded at the location of the current car park at the beach. An erosion rate of 1 metre a
year is observed for the period between 1829 and 1897.
Figure 11.3 Historic 25" Map circa 1897-13 (1)

By the time the aerial images of the area were captured the area that had been
significant erosion had been reclaimed from the sea, However it is unclear whether
this occurred entirely by human intervention or with the assistance of nature but there
are old beach groynes visible along the length of the beach to reduce the effects of
long shore transport on the beach.

Figure 11.4 1995 OSI Imagery (1)

The backshore of the beach has remained in the same location since 1995 and this can
be seen in Figure 11.4, Figure 11.5 and Figure 11.6.

11.4. Visual Study

The remains of the groynes on Youghal Beach are shown in Figure 11.8 where the
vertical posts can be seen right along the beach, but these groynes are no longer
providing any stability to the sediment on the beach.
Figure 11.7 Youghal Beach Groynes in Disrepair

It was also clear that there was a long shore sandbar on the beach at the time of the
survey. This sandbar created the necessary conditions for multiple small rip currents
to occur on Youghal Beach. The outward flowing water had left low points along the
sandbar that can be seen in Figure 11.8.
Figure 11.8 Youghal Beach Rip Evidence on Sandbar


Youghal beach has broad sediment composition ranging from fine to coarse sand.
Very little variation was observed in the sediment across the beach at the time of the
survey. After collecting a sample, drying and conducting a sieve analysis, the
sediments d50 was found to be 0.14mm.
The sample taken from the beach is shown in Figure 11.9, which shows the sample
after being reconsolidated after the sieving process the highlight the different grain
sizes that make up the sediment. The particle size distribution curve is presented in
Appendix C.
Figure 11.9 Youghal Beach sample after Sieving
11.5.2. Beach Slope

Youghal beach has a slope of 1.93 (1:29.7) with shallow nearshore and a slightly
steeper backshore. It has a very smooth transition between the different slopes, with
the cross section of the beach resembling a curve with no distinct terraces visible. The
cross section profiles of Youghal Beach are presented in Appendix D.
11.5.3. Tidal Range

The tidal range calculated for Youghal as Youghal is a secondary port given in the
admiralty tables. It was found that the MSR for the area is 3.6m. The tidal range
calculations are presented in Appendix D.

11.5.4. Wave Climate

area could not be calculated using the linear equations as presented in Appendix G as
the angle between the approaching waves and the seabed contours were >90.
Figure 11.10 Water Depth at LAT+2m
Figure 11.11 Wave period

The wave height in Figure 11.12 Wave Height is the average wave height in Youghal
due to an average wave being input into the model, as such to calculate the significant

wave height the average wave is divided by 0.626 to give a wave height of 1.6m in
10m of water at Youghal beach.

The table bellow shows the summary of results for Youghal Beach.
Table 8 Youghal Beach Results
Youghal 3.6m 3.2 1 1.6 1.93 .14 YES YES

Classification of Irish Beaches Summary of Beach Classification
12.0 Summary of Beach Classification

The data collected for each of the beaches in sections 0 to 11.0 needs to be analysed to
determine the beach type. The beaches will be compared to both the description of
each classification type and the parameters set out for the environmental conditions in
the England and Wales classification model.
12.1. Data Collected

Table 9 Summary of Data Collected

Warren 3.2m 6.5 1.4 2.37 1.7 .17 No No
Rocky Bay 3.5m 6.45 0.35 0.56 1.74 .2 No YES
Inch 3.7m 6.47 2.23 3.56 1 .25 No No
Youghal 3.6m 3.2 1 1.6 1.93 .14 YES YES
12.2. Barleycove
Figure 12.1 Barleycove Beach (1)

Barleycove Beach has a significant low tide terrace with three-dimensional bar
formations on the lower parts of the beach. The sediment is of a sandy nature with
little or no gravel content visible across the entire beach. The wave climate is

considered a high energy with the average wave height of 1m and a significant wave
height of 1.6m. There is significant rip currents present at Barleycove Beach due to
the bar formation.
This beach best fits the description of Beach Group 5 of the England and Wales
Classification Model, but there is a lower tidal range present at Barleycove than is
typical for the beaches already classified in this group, examples given of this beach
type are located along the south west of France. An example of which is shown in
Figure 12.2, which shows similar bar formations to those found at Barleycove Beach.
Figure 12.2 Beach near Aquitaine, France (3)
Table 10 Barleycove Beach Summary


Group 5 4.6- 8s 0.7- 1.8- 1.5 to 0.08-
YES YES
4.7m 1.4m 3.8m 3 0.3
The Beach classification for Barleycove Beach is therefore Low-tide terrace and rip:
LTT + R (Group 5).

12.3. Warren Beach
Figure 12.3 Warren Beach (27)

Warren Beach has been subjected to human intervention to modify the beach using
riprap structures to increase sediment levels at the beach in order to protect the sand
dunes behind the beach from being eroded. The beach now had a more regular slope
across its cross section that it would have had before the construction of the structures
on the beach.
All of the data collected about the beach suggest that the beach best fits into Group 4
of the England and Wales Classification Model except for the slope of the beach. The
model suggests that a low tide terrace should be present at the beach and this would
most defiantly have been the case before the structures were constructed.
The beach slope now resembles a beach from Group 7 in that it has a regular slope,
but the beach does not have the significantly higher wave climate that is expected of a
Group 7 beach.
Over all the current beach fits in with the Ultra-dissipative form of Group 4, which is
commonly found along the Australian coastline. An example of which is shown in
Figure 12.4

Figure 12.4 Orewa Beach Australia (3)
Table 11 Warren Beach Summary

Warren 3.2m 6.5 1.4 2.37 1.7 .17 No No

2.1- 0.2- 0.5 to 0.04
Group 4 4-8s No No
6.6m 2.2m 3 to 6
The Beach classification for Warren Beach is therefore the Ultra-dissipative form of
Low-tide terrace/non-barred dissipative: LTT-D (LE) (Group 4).

12.4. Inchydoney Beach
Figure 12.5 Inchydoney Beach (27)
Inchydoney Beach is characterised by a very shallow slope across the beach with no
low tide terraces as was seen at Barleycove Beach, instead the beach is characterised
by a series of shore parallel sand bar formations that drain to a drainage channel at
one side of the beach that causes a large rip current to form in this when the tide and
waves are flooding in over the sand bars. These formations can be seen in Figure 12.6.
Figure 12.6 Inchydoney Beach on Day of Survey

The characteristics found on Inchydoney beach and the description of the beach bet fit
with Group 8 of the England and Wales Classification model, an example of which is
Blackpool Beach as shown in Figure 12.7. The image shows similar sandbar
formations across the beach to those seen at Inchydoney.
Figure 12.7 Blackpool Beach (27)
Table 12 Inchydoney Beach Summary


4.2- 0.4- 0.8- 0.5 to 0.04-
Group 8 3-5s YES YES
6.5m 0.8m 1.3m 1.5 0.3
The Beach classification for Inchydoney Beach is therefore Multiple inter-tidal

barred: MITB (Group 8).

12.5. Rocky Bay Beach
Figure 12.8 Rocky Bay Beach (1)

Rocky Bay Beach is an unusual beach in that it exists in two distinct states over the
course of the year. During the spring and summer months a layer of sand builds up on
the beach and during the autumn and winter months the sand is slowly striped from
the beach leaving coarse gravel and boulders covering the beach.
The slope of the beach gets gradually steeper from the low tide level to the back
shore, when the beach was surveyed a layer of sand was covering the beach, there was
a sandbar running parallel to the shore creating a shoreward along shore trough. There
was no rip current channels or any other evidence that rip currents are present on the
beach.
Table 13 Rocky Bay Beach Summary
Rocky Bay 3.5m 6.45 0.35 0.56 1.74 .2 No YES

0.4
1.4- 4 to 1 to 0.1 to
Group 3 to No YES
2.8m 8s 7 0.7
0.5m
The Beach classification for Rocky Bay Beach is therefore Linear sub-tidal barred:
STB (Group 3).

12.6. Inch Beach
Figure 12.9 Inch Beach (1)

Inch Beach is a relatively featureless beach in that it has a very smooth cross section
with a constant slope of 1 from the low tide level to the backshore of the beach. The
beach is subjected to a very high-energy wave climate with the mean wave height at
the beach 2.23m.
The classification that best fits Inch beach is beach Group 7 is unusual in its form
when compared to the beaches given as examples of this group in that this is a pocket
beach that has formed between hard wearing rock faces, the area where the beach
exists has seen the largest erosion rates, 1.2m per year between 1829 and 1897 and
0.35m per year 1897 to 1995 occur over the last 170 years of the 6 study sites that
formed the basis of this project. The beach has formed into a dissipative form which is
helping to deal with the high energy waves that impact the beach, which is helping the
stabilise the area reducing the erosion rates at inch, the cliffs around the beach have
continued to be eroded but the backshore of the beach has remained in a similar
position from the 1995 OSI mapping to now.

Table 14 Inch Beach Summary

Inch 3.7m 6.47 2.23 3.56 1 .25 No No

Group 7 6.5- 8s 1- 2-3m 0.5 to 0.04-
No No
8m 1.2m 1 0.3
The Beach classification for Inch Beach is therefore Non-barred dissipative (High
Energy): NBD(HE) (Group 7)
12.7. Youghal Beach
Figure 12.10 Youghal Beach (3)
A very regular sloping beach with no distinct low tide terrace visible and no berms at
the backshore part of the beach, with significant rip currents and a shore parallel
sandbar summarise the characteristics of Youghal Beach. It is also a beach that has
seen significant erosion over the years with action being taken to reduce the long
shore transport of sediment by installing beach groynes that are now in a non-
functional state.

Figure 12.11 Low tide rip evidence at Youghal Beach
Table 15 Youghal Beach Summary

Youghal 3.6m 3.2 1 1.6 1.93 .14 YES YES

Group 6 4.8- 8s 0.8- 1.6- 0.5 to 0.08 -
YES YES
5m 1.6m 3.5m 1.5 0.8
The Beach classification for Youghal Beach is therefore Low-tide bar rip: LBTR
(Group 6).
12.8. Beach Classifications

The following table sets out the groups from the England and Wales Beach
Classification model that were identified at beaches in this project, the environmental
conditions found for each group at an Irish beach and also lists the relevant beach as
an example. The Beach Groups presented in Table 16 were given the (IE) designate to
identify that the information presented is for beaches in Ireland, this table is therefore
a Beach Classification Model that has been validated for a range of beaches in Ireland.
The descriptions for each group remain unchanged from those given in the England
and Wales model, meaning those descriptions together with Table 16 combine to
create a model.

Table 16 Beach Classification Model for Ireland
Wave
Beach Tide Slope D50 Example of
H Hs Rip Sandbar
Group (m) T (s) (Degrees) (mm) Group
(m) (m)
3(IE) 3.5m 6.45 0.35 0.56 1.74 .2 No YES Rocky Bay

4(IE) 3.2m 6.5 1.4 2.37 1.7 .17 No No Warren
5(IE) 3m 5.25 1 1.6 0.72 .23 YES YES Barleycove
(IE)
6 3.6m 3.2 1 1.6 1.93 .14 YES YES Youghal
7(IE) 3.7m 6.47 2.23 3.56 1 .25 No No Inch
8(IE) 3.4m 2.75 1 1.6 0.55 .175 YES YES Inchydoney

Classification of Irish Beaches Conclusions and Recommendations
13.0 Conclusions and Recommendations
13.1. Conclusions
This thesis sets out all the necessary steps to complete an investigation of a beach to
complete a beach classification; these steps include beach surveying, desk and visual
studies, wave modelling and particle size analysis testing.
It also describes the England and Wales Classification model in detail, as it is the
most relevant model to use as a foundation to develop a model for Ireland. It is
necessary to develop a specific model for Ireland due to the variability in the
environmental conditions across different geographical locations to allow an accurate
classification.
The beaches investigated to complete this project were Barleycove Beach, the Warren
Beach, Inchydoney Beach, Rocky Bay Beach, Inch Beach and Youghal beach. These
beaches were chosen as they represent the beaches along the length of the County
Cork coast and also offered the largest possible variation in environmental conditions
and beach types that could be collected over the course of this project.
Once all the necessary data had been collected, the beaches were then grouped
together based on their similarity to one of the classification groups in the England
and Wales model. The Beach Classifications for the beaches in this project were
based on the description and parameters outlined in the England and Wales with more
emphasis placed on the description as the parameters given for a beach type can be
different due to the geographical position of the Irish beaches, the results are:
Barleycove Beach Low-tide terrace and rip: LTT + R (Group 5).

Warren Beach Low-tide terrace/non-barred dissipative: LTT-D(LE) (Group 4)
Inchydoney Beach Multiple inter-tidal barred: MITB (Group 8).
Rocky Bay Beach Linear sub-tidal barred: STB (Group 3).
Inch Beach Non-barred dissipative (High Energy): NBD(HE) (Group 7).
Youghal Beach Low-tide bar rip: LBTR (Group 6).

This information gathered for each group was then used to develop a table showing
the beach groups that have been found in Ireland by this project, the environmental
conditions in which they exist in Ireland and the beach places in each group.
Table 17 Beach Classification Model for Ireland
Wave
Beach Tide Slope D50 Example of
H Hs Rip Sandbar
Group (m) T (s) (Degrees) (mm) Group
(m) (m)
3(IE) 3.5m 6.45 0.35 0.56 1.74 .2 No YES Rocky Bay

4(IE) 3.2m 6.5 1.4 2.37 1.7 .17 No No Warren
5(IE) 3m 5.25 1 1.6 0.72 .23 YES YES Barleycove
6(IE) 3.6m 3.2 1 1.6 1.93 .14 YES YES Youghal
7(IE) 3.7m 6.47 2.23 3.56 1 .25 No No Inch
8(IE) 3.4m 2.75 1 1.6 0.55 .175 YES YES Inchydoney
It so happened that each beach investigated fell into a different beach group; this
means that a range of values for the environmental conditions could not be produced.
That means that the environmental conditions shown in Table 17 is only to be used as
a guide and are not the exclusive range of conditions in which these beach groups may
exist.
13.2. Recommendations
It is recommended that a thorough understanding of the different beach forms is
required before undertaking a beach classification because beaches that exist in
different locations can be subject to different environmental conditions but crucially
they can work in similar ways and thus an understanding of the different beach types
is more important than simply matching the parameters given to a classification
group, especially for one that has been developed for a different geographical
location.

There are some beach groups in the England and Wales Classification model that may
not be found along the Irish coast, for example group 9 requires a much higher tidal
range (MSR=9.7m) than is found along the Irish coastline.
This project is the first step in the development and research of a Beach Classification
model for Ireland. This work clearly sets out all the necessary steps required to collect
and produced the relevant datasets for the environmental conditions at a beach, while
also describing and explaining the aspects of the beach that will need to be visually
identified when completing a Beach Classification.
In order to create a Beach Classification model that will give accurate values for the
parameters for a particular group for beachs along the Irish coast a large number of
beaches will need to be researched along the entire Irish coastline, once this work is
completed the parameters of beaches that are found in similar groups can be subjected
to a statistical analysis to produce a range for each of the parameters that fit each of
the beach groups. Such work would be a valuable new resource for the Irish Coastal
Engineering Community.

Classification of Irish Beaches References
References
1. OSI. FAQ. [Online].; 2014 [cited 2014 02 10. Available from:

http://www.osi.ie/Education/FAQ.aspx.
2. O'Connell A. Classification of Beaches to Determine their Potental for Erosion. Masters
Thesis. Cork: Cork Institute of Technology, Civil, Structural and Enviromental
Engineering; 2013.
3. Google. maps.google.ie. [Online]. [cited 2013 11 28. Available from: maps.google.ie.
4. O'Hagan et al. Spatial variability in approches to coastal protection in Ireland. Journal of
Coastal research. 2002; 544-551(36,2002).
5. Photoholicsanonymous.blogspot.con. http://maludan.3dtoast.com. [Online].; 2014 [cited
2014 03 12. Available from:
http://maludan.3dtoast.com/images/Ireland%20Coastline.JPG.
6. Karbus G. Amazing picture of Lahinch getting HAMMERED in New Year's storm.
[Online].; 2014 [cited 2014 03 21. Available from:
http://www.breakingnews.ie/discover/amazing-picture-of-lahinch-getting-hammered-in-
new-years-storm-618816.html.
7. O' Byrne J. Rocky Bay Beach. Cork: Cork Institute of Technology; 2010.
8. OPW. Flood and Erosion Mapping. [Online].; 2013 [cited 2014 08 20. Available from:
http://www.opw.ie/floodriskmanagement/floodanderosionmapping/#.VBWqWUskOZM.
9. RPS & OPW. Irish Coastal Protection Strategy Study Phase 3 - South Coast. Technicial
Report. RPS & OPW; 2011.
10. Short A. Australian Beach Systems-Nature and Distribution. Journal. Sydney: University
of Sydney, Coastal Studies Unit; 2006.
11. Short A. OZ Coasts. [Online].; 2013 [cited 2014 03 10. Available from:
http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/beach_intro.jsp.
12. Scott et al.. Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and
Wales. University of Plymouth , School of Marine Science and Engineering ; 2011 Sep
01.
13. Tampachichi B. tampicoventures. [Online]. [cited 2014 02 20. Available from:

http://tampicoventures.com/Cabo%20Rojo/Barra_Tampachichi.htm.
14. Through the sandglass. Through the sandglass. [Online].; 2009 [cited 2014 01 28.
Available from:
http://throughthesandglass.typepad.com/through_the_sandglass/2009/05/beach-
nourishment-and-sediment-budgets.html.
15. University of Illinois. University of Illinois. [Online].; 2010 [cited 2014 02 21. Available
from: http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/(Gh)/guides/mtr/hurr/damg/rip.rxml.
16. West DI. Beach Fetures. [Online]. [cited 2014 02 20. Available from:
http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~imw/hordle.htm.
17. Kichis K. Ken's Daily Photo Album. [Online]. [cited 2014 02 12. Available from:
http://kenkichisdailyphoto.blogspot.ie/2010_03_01_archive.html.
18. Science of the surf. Science of the surf. [Online]. [cited 2014 2. Available from:
http://www.scienceofthesurf.com/book.html.
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lake.ca/waterworld/beach/beachcusps/.
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http://www.geog.plymouth.ac.uk/research/gmasselink/gallery.html.
21. Abyla. Dunes and Plants. [Online]. [cited 2014 02 15. Available from:
http://www.rgbstock.com/bigphoto/mpDgHQS/Dunes+and+plants.
22. MVTEnergy. Youtube. [Online].; 2013 [cited 2014 02 21. Available from:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2v6ZaIztbE.
23. Jeppesen. Jeppesen a Boeing company. [Online].; 2014 [cited 2014 06 02. Available
from: http://ww1.jeppesen.com/marine/lightmarine/.
24. Admiralty. Admiralty Tide Tables. 2014th ed.: The United Kingdom Hydrographic
Office.
25. Marine Institute. Data.Marine.ie. [Online].; 2014 [cited 2014 03 10. Available from:
http://data.marine.ie/Dataset/Details/20932#.
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03 02. Available from: http://courses.washington.edu/uwtoce06/methods.html.
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Oireachtas. [Online].; 2003 [cited 2014 07 26. Available from:
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Classification of Irish Beaches Appendices

Appendix A ~
Beach Survey Method Statement
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering A

Appendix B ~
CIT Laboratory Method Statement
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering B


Appendix C ~
Sediment Size Analysis Graphs
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering C


Appendix D ~
Beach Survey Profiles
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering D


Appendix E ~
Tide MSR Calculations
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering E


Appendix F ~
Mike 21 Wave Model Results
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering F


Appendix G ~
Wave Linear Equation Results
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering G


Appendix H ~
Technical Document
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering H


Appendix I ~
Poster
John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering I

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Department of Civil, Structural & Environmental

Student Name: JohnJoe O Sullivan

Class: MEng in Civil Engineering

Module Name: INTR9004 Project Realisation

Project Title: Classification of Irish Beaches

Lecturer Name: Dr. Joe Harrington

Date submitted: 19th September 2014

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering i

Beach classification models have been pioneered by researchers for beaches in

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering ii

Executive Summary ................................................................................................ ii

Table of Contents ................................................................................................... iii

Table of Figures ................................................................................................... viii

List of Tables ......................................................................................................... xii

1.0 Introduction .................................................................................................. 1

2.0 The Irish Coastline ......................................................................................... 3

3.0 An Introduction to Beach Classification Models ............................................. 6

4.0 Elements of a Beach Classification Model .................................................... 14

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering iii

5.0 Beach Data Collection .................................................................................. 21

6.0 Barleycove Beach ......................................................................................... 34

7.0 The Warren Beach ....................................................................................... 40

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering iv

8.0 Inchydoney Beach ........................................................................................ 48

9.0 Rocky Bay Beach .......................................................................................... 54

10.0 Inch Beach ................................................................................................. 62

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering v

10.5.4. Wave Height ................................................................................................... 65

11.0 Youghal Beach ........................................................................................... 68

12.0 Summary of Beach Classification ............................................................... 75

13.0 Conclusions and Recommendations ........................................................... 86

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering vi

Appendix A ~ Beach Survey Method Statement ...................................................... A

Appendix B ~ CIT Laboratory Method Statement .................................................... B

Appendix C ~ Sediment Size Analysis Graphs ........................................................... C

Appendix D ~ Beach Survey Profiles ....................................................................... D

Appendix E ~ Tide MSR Calculations ........................................................................ E

Appendix F ~ Mike 21 Wave Model Results ............................................................. F

Appendix G ~ Wave Linear Equation Results .......................................................... G

Appendix H ~ Technical Document ......................................................................... H

Appendix I ~ Poster .................................................................................................. I

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering vii

Figure 1.1 Beach Locations (3) ....................................................................................... 2

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering viii

Figure 5.11 Coordinate Conversion (1) ......................................................................... 29

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering ix

Figure 8.4 Inchydoney Beach Circa 2012 (26) .............................................................. 50

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering x

Figure 11.5 2000 OSI Imagery (1) ................................................................................ 70

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering xi

Table 1 Australian Beach Model (10) .............................................................................. 8

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering xii

1.1. Background to project

1.2. Aims and Objectives

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering 1

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering 2

2.0 The Irish Coastline

Figure 2.1 Irish Coastline (5)

Figure 2.2 Waves at Lahinch Co. Clare (6)

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering 3

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering 4

Figure 2.4 ICPSS South Coast (9)

John Joe O Sullivan MEng in Civil Engineering 5

3.0 An Introduction to Beach Classification Models