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A warning before you start this. if you follow these directions on
converting your overhead projector it will probably no longer work as an 8footape
overhead projector. But on the major plus side you'll have an Follow 2
Bio: random
My main goal with this is for creating artwork stencil paterns and other
such things. that and not paying $300 dollars for an enlarger from an
More by 8footape:
art store.
Theres a couple ways you could modify a part so it could be used for
both transparency and overhead projector probably of course. so i might
include that Related
4-5ft long 7/8ths square steel tubing or 3/4 aluminum edging for
plywood if using the original bracket the 4 foot long piece is good 5 foot
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by murak
to shrink the images.
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Enlarging the Everyday
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by johnnak
overhead projector $20 at goodwill
wire caps Copier Reductions and
zip ties Enlargements Done
Right
by Phil B
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Open the projector and remove the glass plate.sliding it out. you can
save this for later for another project, or keep it around so you can use
the projector as a light table for tracing. etc.
Undo the screw on the arm above the lense assembly remove the head.
be carefull its got some springs and other parts that can fall out. set it
aside.
If i rember this right you need to remove the front of the projector to
remove the mirror and the plate its atached to. I started this project up
to a year ago??.. Couldnt find a 7/8ths piece of square steel pipe so it all
got put on the back burner.As so many things do.
but back to the task at hand.
you'll need your drill. and a bit about an 1/8th inch minimum would be
my guess, or a dremel and an appropriate dremel bit if you perfer.
open the door on the bottom of the projector. Pull the power cord out of
your way. Take your locking pliers and unscrew the nut holding the
mirror in place.
While the projector is still on its side take your #" philips head screw
driver and insert it in the holes on the bottom of the projector and
unscrew the two screws holding in the top of the mirror. you should
now be able to remove the mirror.the next part for you to remove is the
sheet metal the mirror was attached to. To do this you need to take
your drill bit and drill and carefully drill out all the rivets that are
holding the sheet metal down. once youve done this you have to
remove the front of the projector.
next you will need to take the front of the projector off. There are 5
screws holding mine in place.
you should now be able to remove the sheet metal from the projector. if
not double check all the rivets are loose.
it wont help you to repositon it as I found out. The original arm is offset
the straight are sticks up off the machine when its down. I took the
time to repostion my supporth thing retatch it offset the holes to keep it
in the same basic alignment etc. so im including the 2 pictures i ive got
of it any way. so Basicaly dont do this. the secon pictue is the measur of
the offset of the holes have.
but if you want to use the support which im going to repostion again at
some point for myself any way. You need to take a boad or some similar
thing and attach it to the body of the projector and have enough
overhand to support the arm when its down.
this might however interfer with the Shroud later. im not sure. since i
havent made either yet,
Step 6:
I dont have any pics of what i did here so. this image will suffice.
The second hole up on the support arm is the one you want to make on
your new support arm. the hole needs to be as big as the tube thats
going to go throught it which is sittin above the arm in the pic. theres 4
thin washers dont lose em.
remove the shee metal pyrmaid thing of the supprot arm. put it on your
new. I dont think this is necessary but i did it any way.
assemble the arm and attach to the bracket make sure it works.
Wiring Up.
you should have pulled your wires through the side of the frame when
you disconected the safety switc. You should be looking at the insied
and it should look like the first pic i hav here.
With a pair of wire caps. conect the wires from the power cord together.
Black to black white to white. retach the ground wire to where it was
before.
run a zip tie through the opening the wire conector went throught and
bind the wires to it. the Picture with the screw driver show them bound
with the zip tie this is how it looks like from the outside. this should
give enough clearance on the inside to reinsert the light assembly/back
of the projector.
Last Pic is of the inside wires zip tied to the machine with the holes from
the orange suport
Step 8: Using
Using
slide the Head onto the support arm. lift it up. turn on the machine and
deicde wether your shrininking or enlarging .
for shirinking raise the head all the way up and a foot or fwo from your
surface. this will give you 2-3 times reduction you can see it on the door
at about 2 inches.
for enlarging to maxximum all the way down and 20 or so feet away
from your surface. which is around 20 times magnification. 6" inch
screw driver was 10ft long on my wall.
adjust up and down for clarity.
this gets hot so be careful with your hands and be careful with what you
put inside. the screwdriver was nice and toasty when it came out.
so thin plastics might distort?and warp? and othere things may brought
to point of ingnition. so a word of caution.
my camera doesnt take low light pictrues all that well an it looked a bit
better in person but, heres an old ninja turtle of mine hes missing his
arms from all his battles with the shreder and was it the foot? who
names a ninja clan the foot?
An Idont think i went into it. but for the support arm without the
bracket. a piece of wood the same thicknes that bracket is or as wide as
needed for the base of the projector head to slip by the side of the
machine all the way to its maximum depth. and drill a couple holes
where you feel is appropriate through your suport arm and the projector
body and atach the arm.You may feel or find that you need to make an
angle cut on a piece of wood to fit the angled undercut on the side of
the machine for full support.
Id try to leave this movable or removable. as transporting anything
thats 5 feet long and breakable is complicate.
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