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in every state
From climbs over majestic mountain passes
to blissful Sunday beach cruises,
truly great cycling routes can be found in all 50 states,
from maine to Hawaii.
Make plans to ride as many as you can.
by Evelyn Spence
E
verywhere on Lopez Island, you see bicycles: Leaning against cedar ictorian inns with bike storage, and because
V
trees, pink tulips planted in their baskets; in the back of vintage Lopezcompared with the hilly Orcas and busy
blue Chevy trucks; parked outside Holly Bs Bakery in the village, San Juan, which comprise the other main stops
where the wooden sign above the door reads mayor. When you get on the ferry routeis relatively flat.
to the corner of Lopez Road and Military Road, theres a weathered But what makes an ideal cycling route? For
yellow bike mounted way up on an equally weathered barn, and its some, it might be a flatthe flatter the better
such a made-for-Instagram photo op that hundreds of cleats have meander through Kansas farmland or along a
beaten a path into the grass, just to capture a perfect and nostalgic image. South Carolina beachfront. It might be a multi-
Which is exactly what I did partway around the 37-mile loop of Lopez, the mellow- hour grunt up an above-treeline Colorado pass.
est, the most agricultural, and most hippie of Washingtons achingly beautiful San It might be a jackhammer rip through a rock
Juan Islands. I was on a quest to find the best ride in the state, and after interrogat- garden in Arizona or Vermont. It might be a
ing friends and guides and outfitters, I drove two hours north from Seattle and took bike-path cruise to the best ice cream, or mar-
the 50-minute ferry ride west through some of the archipelagos 172 islands to a place garita, or burger, or wine, anywhere. Coffee
where side roads are named Long and Winding and Less Traveled. Some people call shop, check. Wide shoulders, check. For every
it Slowpez, for the way it winds you down. Some people call it the Friendly Isle, for lighthouse in Maine, theres an S-curve in Cali-
the way drivers finger-wave at everyone. And some people call it the Bicyclists Is- fornia just waiting to test the stickiness of the
land, for all these reasons, and for the bike-turnout signs on the main roads, and the rubber on your tires.
ALASKA
Anchorage to Seward over
Turnagain Pass There are not many
places where you can pull off a point-to-
point 125-miler and still make it home
before sunset. But not many places
are like Alaska, where June sunlight
stretches to 20 hours, roads meander
given the scenery, past fjords, and caribou outnumber
lack of traffic,
people. Follow the Seward Highway past
and opportunities
to explore, youll the remnants of mining claims and keep
want to take your your eyes peeled for whales and eagles.
time pedaling the Then catch the 6 p.m. Alaska Railroad
island affection- complete with a bar car and a double-
ately nicknamed
decker glass-topped viewing carand
Slowpez.
chug past jewel-blue glaciers back to
photographed
square one before the 11 p.m. sunset.
by MOTOFISHIMAGES
ARIZONA
The idea of choosing the best ride in any city, much less any state, might seem ab- Black Canyon Mountain Bike Trail
surda great ride is a deeply personal thingbut here in Washington, Ill make a case This 8-inch-wide singletrack rolls for 62
for Lopez. Not five minutes after leaving the crescent beach of MacKaye Harbor, at miles through saguaro cacti, winding
the south end, I passed an otter running on the pavement and saw a bald eaglesoaring canyons, and dusty washes. And it all
overhead. I rolled past knock-kneed spring lambs and pottery studios on the way to parallels Interstate 17 (for easy car
Spencer Spit State Park, where hundreds of driftwood logs back up onto the beach and access) and the Bradshaw Mountains,
herons wade in a saltwater lagoon. In Lopez Village, ducking in from a rare shower (the which make for desert views and
San Juans get 250 days of sunshine a year, compared with Seattles 58), I pounded an thrilling exposure. Its quintessential
espresso at Caffe La Boheme. Next door, at Holly Bs, I gulped down the best cinna- Arizona, fat-tire style.
mon roll Ive ever eaten, then tucked another in my jersey pocket. There was a short
hill on the way up to white-clapboard Center Churchand a short hike out to Shark ARKANSAS
Reef Park, where I scrambled down rain-slick rocks in my cycling shoes to look at the The Womble Trail Mountain biking in
tide pools. By the time I reached Agate Beach back south, I was soaked. But the way the Arkansas? Yes, pleaseon a 31-mile
fog slid through the trees, the way the saltwater waves sizzled on the seashore pebbles, stretch of singletrack that follows the
capped off a ride that was quintessentially Northwest. Finishing was bittersweet, be- Ouachita (Oh-Ah-Sha-Tah) River and
cause I realized I may never find another ride in my home state thats quite as lyrical, undulates through hardwoods, racking
quite as quietly perfect. But heres the fun part: I can always keep searching. up 6,000 feet of climbing.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
JAMIE KRIPKE
Glacier National Parks Logan Pass, remember that within 85 miles this loop
crosses two 9,000-foot passes, circles
the better it gets: shark-tooth 13,161-foot Wheeler Peak, passes near
peaks, bear sightings, scooped- the D.H. Lawrence Ranch and Shrine, and
babbling brooks, and intensely backside, and cross over and drop back
beautiful rolling hills. into town. When the trees are in full leaf
on the flanks of Paris, its like riding
through a canyon, says Joe Gillon of the
Great Escape bike shopbut the views
wild turkeys, and the occasional rattle is a stunner. Start at Diamond Lake, climb from the top are superb year-round.
snake sunning on the road. up to the crater, ride around the rim, then
careen back to Diamond for a swim and SOUTH DAKOTA
OHIO a beer. The rim alone offers 3,900 feet of Black Hills At 108 miles, this ride is a
The Longest Covered Bridge in America climbing, with constantly shifting views two-breakfaster. Start with a chocolate-
Here you can cross seven old-timey of the nations deepest, bluest water. If chip bagel with cinnamon frosting
bridges in one shot, including one thats I had one last day on earth, says bicycle washed down with java from Alpine
613 feet long. But thats not even the tourer Lynn Pilato, I would ride the rim at Coffee Company in Spearfish. Just before
best part of this memorable Midwestern Crater Lake. the rides 6,627-foot high point in Hanna,
sojourn. How can you beat a ride that
swings by a restaurant that serves the
best coleslaw in the world? asks Tracey PENNSYLVANIA
Bradnan of Century Cycles in Cleveland. Ice Cream Lovers Ride When Judy Hurlbut, longtime member of the Lancaster Bike Club,
The place is called Josephines, and the moved here 25 years ago, she thought shed died and gone to heaven. Her version of
secret ingredients are pecans, pineapple, paradise is Amish countryroadside stands selling homemade root beer, small churches,
and dried cranberries. and a vibe so peaceful that no ones ever had to secure their bike to a post. On this 40-
mile routewith just 52 feet of climbingyou can find killer ice cream at Bird-in-Hand
OKLAHOMA Bakery (12 miles in), Lapp Valley Farm (23 miles), and Oregon Dairy (36 miles), where
The Norman Conquest The elevation scoops are sized calf, heifer, or cow. (See page 10.)
profile of this 64-mile rideheld each
Julylooks like the EKG of a 10-year-old
watching The Shining. Which means that, RHODE ISLAND refuel with biscuits and gravy under the
despite what youve heard, Oklahoma Westerly to Watch Hill When it comes to awnings at the Cheyenne Crossing Caf.
isnt flat. Not this part, anyway. cycling, our smallest state offers some At mile 75, pose in front of Mt. Rushmore,
larger-than-life momentslike on this then roll into the granite monoliths of
OREGON Narragansett Bay Wheelmen club ride. Custer State Park.
Crater Lake Hows this for drama: More The leisurely 64-mile route follows rural
than 7,000 years ago, a volcano here roads past the home of the nations first TENNESSEE
erupted with a force 40 times as powerful carousel (built in 1870), and tops out at Killing Me Softly Blame the owners
as when Mt. St. Helens blew, leaving a the Watch Hill Coast Guard Station with of Gran Fondo Cycles in Nashville for
hole almost 2,000 feet deep. And, bless big views of Block Island Sound. There are coming up with a 100-miler that gains
the National Park Service, crews built a three beaches in Watch Hill, including one 7,500 feeteven though you never climb
road around itone that everyone agrees that was home to an old Spanish fort. more than 400 of them at once. You get
limestone bluffs and babbling brooks, a
few mean dogs, and abandoned trailers.
People are always shocked by the beauty
Visit BICYCLING.com/bestrides and intensity in an area where there are
for complete GPS maps and no mountains, only rolling hills, says
punched up by supersteep
cant make it in August for this annual
century, do yourself a favor and ride the
climbs, ice-cold Lone Star and 103-mile course on your own. The best
BBQ, cattle wandering across the section is pure bliss: The 22-mile stretch
that includes Back Mountain Road twists
highway, and wildflower shows. through the hardwoods of Monongahela
National Forest, serving up forever
descents that test your mettle in corners.
Hill Countrythe cycling capital of VERMONT
Texas. And Cycle Texas, a local group of The LAMB Ride LAMB stands for Lincoln, WISCONSIN
riders, calls this 55-mile route the queen Appalachian, Middlebury, and Brandon. Kettle Moraine Locals say the LaGrange
cycling attraction in Gillespie County. Theyre what Vermonters call gaps General Store and Backyard Bikes
Why? Farmland rollers punched up by passes that crisscross the spine of the where County Road H meets Highway
a few supersteep climbs. Ice-cold Lone Green Mountains. And they make for 12 in southeast Wisconsinis a sacred
Stars and BBQ at Harrys in Willow City. what mere mortals call sufferfests. shrine of cycling. Maybe its the coffee
Cattle wandering across the highway. Something for your cogs to chew on: and cowboy cookies. Or maybe its the
Ridiculous wildflower shows every April. Locals claim that an uphill section near landscapean idyllic mix of small ponds
And endless options to shortenor Lincoln is the steepest stretch of paved (those namesake kettles), big lakes,
stretch outthe adventure. road in the United States, at 24 percent. wide valleys, and hills all piled up by Ice
Age glaciers. Hit them all on a 31-mile set
UTAH VIRGINIA of interlocking loops out of Palmyra.
The Whole Enchilada If youre a Skyline Drive Optimize the 105-mile
mountain biker, you must hit Moab ride by pedaling it in early Octoberthe WYOMING
obviously. Just dont leave without autumn colors are psychedelic. And Around the Block Start in Jackson, pedal
tackling this monster descent, which do it from north to southstarting in past Wilson, climb over Teton Pass into
starts at 11,200 feet in the La Sal Front Royal, Virginia, gets the climb up Idaho, glide through Victor and Alpine,
Mountains. The 27-mile thrill ride to 3,385-foot Hogback Overlook out of then head back through the Snake River
plummets down flowy singletrack, the way early. The ups and downs are Canyon. This beast of a route is 110 miles,
bumps along high-speed jeep roads, relentless, but so are the views west to with 5,000 feet of vert, big skies, bigger
and dangles on the edge of 1,000-foot the Shenandoah Valley. mountains, and major bragging rights. Be
cliffs before finishing on the banks of the sure to refuel at the gas station in Swan
Colorado River. WASHINGTON Valley, which serves mint chocolate chip
Lopez Island; see page 2. ice cream.
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