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ImagineN4tion
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 Siga 54

Bio: guiado pelo capricho; Promover a

colaborao e a inovao; Startups para
iniciar a economia; Gonzo constri; siga
via Twitter: @ ImagineN4tion;
http://imaginen4tion.blogspot.com/

Mais por ImagineN4tion:

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Mostrar todos os itens
(/id/How-to- (/id/Dearest-
Connect- Jack-
your- Daniels- (/id/Inexpensive-
Arduino-to- please-grant- Soft-Metal-
Este projeto pode no parecer extremamente excitante, mas muito til e the-Internet- us- Bending-
gratificante para criar outras partes com uma vez que est terminado. as-a-W/) INDEPENDENCE/)Tool/)
excitante, seja EXCITADO! Se voc um verdadeiro Criador, voc j est
repleto de entusiasmo pelo fato de que est lendo outro instrutor e expandindo
a aljava da sua mente. Relacionados

Dobrando Tubo de parede

Recentemente, eu precisava curvas de 90 graus em estoque de alumnio para
fina para bicicletas e
criar colchetes para um projeto que eu estava indo. Peguei $ 25, correi para o mobilirio - (/id/Bending-
Home Depot e, depois de algumas horas, criei minha prpria ferramenta de Thin-Wall-Tubing-for-

dobra metlica. Rpido, sujo, simples e barato. (/id/Bending- bicycles-and-

Roller Bender caseiro
(/id/Homemade-Roller-
Bender/)
por Make it Extreme
(/id/Homemade-(/member/Make+it+Extreme/)
Ferramenta de dobra de
caixa de metal feita na
Techshop.ws (/id/Metal-Box-
Bending-Tool-made-at-
Staff Picks Techshopws/)
(/id/Metal-
Dobrador de acrlico da
impressora a laser com caixa
de temporizador de rel
(/id/Acrylic-Bender-From-
(/id/Acrylic- Laser-Printer-With-Relay-
Bend Metal Without
Expensive Tools (/id/Bend-
Metal-Without-Expensive-
Tools/)
(/id/Bend- pelo capito Robert

DIY Metal Brake (http://vimeo.com/46344036) from Whim

(http://vimeo.com/user12597329) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com) .

Poucas notas rpidas:

o smbolo "indica polegadas.
As quantidades vm antes das descries de materiais e so seguidas de um"
x ". As
imagens sero referidas em etapas com base na ordem numrica que so
colocadas dentro dessa etapa.
Eu usei a mquina de cabea de boto parafusos, mas em retrospectiva, seria
melhor usar parafusos de cabea chata e rebaixe
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink) -los.
Tudo que voc precisa pode ser facilmente comprado em Home Depot ou
similar.

Materiais:
1) 1x 2" de largura por 1/8" estoque de ao plano espessura
(I comprou 36 "deste por US $ 6,97)
2) 1x 6" comprimentos de 1 "Steel L bracket
(eu comprei 36" deste por US $ 6,47)

3) 9x # 8-32 x 3/8 "parafusos de mquina (de preferncia cabea plana

(http://www.homerepairworkshop.com/?welcome/index/carpentry-
drywall/machine-screw-reference-chart/01-07) )
(Eu comprei uma caixa de 100 cabeas de boto por US $ 5,80)

4) 2x # 8-32 x 1 "parafusos de mquina

(eu comprei um pacote de 4 por US $ 1,18)

5) 2x # 8-32 porcas
(eu comprei um pacote de 6 para $ 1.18)

6) 9x # 8 Trava de trava
(eu comprei um pacote de 30 por US $ 1,18)

7) 10x # 8-32 porcas hexagonais

(eu comprei um pacote de 100 por US $ 3,92)

8) dobradias 2x 1/2 "

(eu comprei um pacote de 2 de 1,5" solto pino de zinco dobradias por US $
2,27)

Isso tudo acrescenta-se a pouco menos de $ 29, mas se voc ignorar as 100 e
30 embalagens de parafusos e arruelas e s pegar o que voc precisa, voc
deve ser capaz de obt-lo para baixo a $ 25.

Ferramentas :
1) Serra de metal
(eu cheguei com uma serra com uma lmina de corte de metal)

2) Broca de energia

3) Broca de 5/32 "para metal

(apenas um dimetro grande o suficiente para obter um parafuso # 8 com um
pouco de perseguio de uma chave de fenda)

4) Broca de 5/16 "para metal

(no deve ter mas til para limpar as bordas nos orifcios menores que voc
perfura)

5 ) chave de fenda
(qualquer tipo que corresponde aos parafusos de mquina que voc compra)

6) Alicates
(para a realizao de nozes enquanto voc apertar parafusos)

Custo: <$ 25 (no incluindo ferramentas)

Tempo: ~ 2 horas

Bebida: Caf.

Siga the Making .. .

Twitter: @ ImagineN4tion
 Blog: http://imaginen4tion.blogspot.com/

Passo 1: Corte o metal ao comprimento

(/file/FL9L8SPH4VQRIJ3/)

(/file/F0S6QKKH4VQNIT9/)

Primeiro, primeiro, pegue o suporte de ao L e o estoque plano de ao que voc

tem e cort-lo ao comprimento. Voc precisar dos seguintes comprimentos:

1) 4x 6 "de comprimento do suporte de ao L (veja a imagem 1).

2) 1x 6" de comprimento do estoque plano de ao (ver imagem 2).

Eu cortei esses comprimentos da maneira mais difcil usando minha serra com
uma lmina de corte de metal anexada. Se voc no tem nenhuma maneira de
cortar metal voc pode pegar uma serra para barato e passar. Se voc tem uma
sarga de corte ou uma serra de fita, pode passar por essas coisas com, ainda
melhor. Nota: Ignore os furos no metal nas imagens nesta etapa. Vamos cuidar
daquele prximo passo.
Passo 2: Faa alguns buracos!

(/file/FQDUOV2H4VQRIMG/)

(/file/FK1KSFVH4VQGUVA/) (/file/FUT9X87H4VQNITO/)

(/file/F3W0S5DH4VQSYZR/) (/file/F35V016H4VQKIKD/) (/file/F1MJIX0H4VQ9UAW/)

Pegue os seus quatro comprimentos de suporte L e rotul-los individualmente

nas partes A, B, C e D. A partir daqui, tomaremos aproximadamente cada
comprimento dessa maneira.

Em retrospectiva, eu deveria ter comprado os parafusos de mquina de cabea

lisa # 8 e contra os afundados, pois isso tornaria a ferramenta muito mais sexy,
alm de aliviar alguns problemas que eu tive com as cabeas de parafuso
interferindo com as dobradias totalmente fechadas. Assim, se voc puder,
encontre uma grande broca que voc pode usar para perfurar os rebocos
depois de perfurar os orifcios iniciais e usar parafusos de mquina plana.

Parte A:
pegue o comprimento do suporte L que voc rotulou a parte "A" e perfure um
buraco na linha central de uma flange 1/2 polegada do final da pea (veja a
imagem 1). Parte B:

Pegue o comprimento do suporte L que voc rotulou a parte "B" e perfure um

furo na linha central de uma flange 1/2 polegada do final da pea (veja a
imagem 2). Observe a diferena de localizao do buraco entre a parte A e a
parte B.
 Nota: As dobradias so montadas nas peas C e D e, portanto, a colocao do
furo crtica e diferir pelas dobradias que voc usa. Os elementos crticos
esto colocando os orifcios adequadamente para que a parte redonda da
dobradia esteja nivelada com a borda do suporte L (veja a imagem 3) e a
montagem das dobradias to perto do final das peas C e D.

Parte C:
Pegue o comprimento do suporte L que voc rotulou a parte "C" e perfure
quatro furos em uma flange para montar as dobradias para (veja a imagem 4).
Estes quatro orifcios so para suas dobradias e fundamental que sejam
colocadas adequadamente. Certifique-se de que alinha a borda arredondada da
dobradia com a borda do suporte L ao definir a colocao do furo. No flange
oposto da parte C, perfure um furo ao longo da linha central da flange 1/2
polegada do final (veja a imagem 4). Parte D: Crie a parte D exatamente como
voc fez a parte C, mas desta vez coloque dois furos (um em cada
extremidade, 1/2 polegada da extremidade) na flange oposta da flange que as
dobradias iro montar (veja a imagem 5).

Finalmente, pegue o pedao de 6 polegadas de estoque de ao plano e perfure

dois orifcios, conforme visto na imagem 6. Os orifcios devem ser colocados a
1/2 polegada das extremidades e 1/2 polegada da borda superior.

Passo 3: Ahhh, Screw It!

(/file/F5IDKD4H4VQKIL0/)

(/file/F211RLZH4VQ62UR/) (/file/F9WOY6AH4VQNIUS/)
 (/file/FB6W4Z0H4VQRJ6D/) (/file/F0A1RIFH4VQRJC5/) (/file/FIKWTPXH4VQSZCB/)
Mostrar todos os itens

Vamos montar as peas agora. Usando quatro parafusos de mquina # 8-32 x

3/8 ", juntamente com anilhas de trava e porcas hexagonais, prenda as
dobradias parte C, conforme mostrado na imagem 1. Novamente, observe
que a parte arredondada da dobradia deve estar nivelada com a curva L na
parte C. Agora prenda a parte D s dobradias usando outros quatro parafusos
de mquina # 8-32 x 3/8 ", arruelas de trava e porcas hexagonais (veja a
imagem 2). Agora voc deve poder dobrar a dobradia com as peas C e D em
anexo. Voc pode criar uma configurao X (imagem 2) ou uma configurao T
(imagem 3, olhando a parte superior do T) com base em como ela est
dobrada.

A imagem 4 mostra todas as partes que devem ser anexadas um ao outro em

aproximadamente as posies em que sero anexadas. Conecte a parte A
parte C (superior direita na imagem 4) usando o nico furo deixado em cada
parte juntamente com um parafuso de mquina # 8-32 x 3/8 ", uma trava e uma
porca hexagonal. A imagem 5 mostra a parte A conectada pea C (lado
esquerdo), bem como a parte B conectada parte D (lado direito). Quando
voc conecta a parte B parte D, voc quer usar um dos seus parafusos de
mquina # 8-32 x 1 "longos e no colocar um arruela de bloqueio ou porca
hexagonal. Eu tambm inseri uma porca hexagonal entre as partes B e D para
reduzir as partes de chocalhar quando a ferramenta no est em uso, no
entanto, isso no necessrio (imagem 6).

Uma vez que voc tenha tudo com a aparncia da imagem 5, deslize a
ferramenta (imagem 7) e insira o outro parafuso de mquina longo # 8-32 x 1
"atravs do orifcio final na parte D. Em seguida, coloque a placa de ao plana
nos dois parafusos longos da mquina e coloque duas porcas nos parafusos
(imagens 8 e 9).

Passo 4: Fini!
 (/file/FQFELVTH4VQSYVR/)

(/file/FMXOHMKH4VQNIS5/) (/file/FFXH0GUH4VQRIF9/)

Ferramenta de dobramento de metal macio barato por

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) em metalurgia (/explore/category/workshop/keyword/metalworking/)

Download h (/id/Inexpensive-Soft-Metal-Bending-Tool/) 4 Passos .

Coleo Eu fiz isso! Favorito Compartilhar

(/file/FWQVRBSH4VQNISL/) (/file/FC9680BH4VQRIFF/) advertisement

Voc est agora terminado e pode comear a dobrar estoque de alumnio na

vontade de criar os suportes mais significativos do mundo para manter seu
Arduino ou qualquer outra coisa que voc precise para garantir. Apenas no
use isso para o mal. A menos que seja apenas um pouco maligno,
provavelmente est certo.
 Para fazer uma curva:
1) Afrouxe as porcas e deslize o metal entre a placa plana e a parte D e aperte
as porcas (imagem 1). 2) Pegue a parte A e gire-a para a parte B (imagem 2).
3) Gire-o para o ngulo apropriado que voc est tentando alcanar, no
meu caso 90 graus (imagem 3). 4) Retorna a parte A para a posio inicial
uma vez que a curva feita (imagem 4). 5) Solte as porcas e remova o
recm-dobrado metal (imagem 5).

DIY Metal Brake

de Whim

00:23

DIY Metal Brake (http://vimeo.com/46344036) from Whim

(http://vimeo.com/user12597329) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com) .

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Comentrios

Temos uma poltica de comentrios agradvel.

Seja positivo e construtivo.

w Eu fiz isso! Adicionar imagens Comentar

hectorR85 (/member/hectorR85/) 2017-06-21 Responder

Greetings, I am trying to make a box of electrified project, it serves me to make

box
efoster6 (/member/efoster6/) 2017-05-20 Reply

half made one years ago but drew a blank half way through thanks for showing
a complete one

solitaire27 (/member/solitaire27/) 2017-01-18 Reply

Do you think it can work on a larger scale, to bend aluminium sheet of 3 feet
long?
I'll try it for sure! I will use more door hinge and thicker metal

Thank a lot for your post!

full_metal (/member/full_metal/) 2012-08-07 Reply

cool hand held sheet folder

i use actual power presses what do same thing but on mutch larger scale for my
job, if you want i can give you mathmatical formulas for working out all your
bend area and your bend radiouse, also useful for geting your leg lengths
corect size

ccncomm (/member/ccncomm/) . full_metal (/member/full_metal/) Reply

2016-03-31
I would love to have that

sensei09 (/member/sensei09/) 2015-08-16 Reply

pls someone give me an idea on how can i make a pvc bender ... tnx .. proud
pinoy here

mamajr96 (/member/mamajr96/) 2015-02-15 Reply

i need to bend 13 gauge aluminum (.090) and am already half way through
making one of this except welding instead of bolting, and was curious what was
the largest gauge of aluminum you bent with this, thanks

csiu3 (/member/csiu3/) 2014-09-08 Reply

Inspire by yours y make this one. Thanxs

(https://cdn.instructables.com/FFE/1YTJ/HZTT8HK4/FFE1YTJHZTT8HK4.LARGE.jpg)

(https://cdn.instructables.com/FAM/8XHP/HZTT8HKT/FAM8XHPHZTT8HKT.LARGE.jpg)

csiu3 (/member/csiu3/) . csiu3 (/member/csiu3/) 2014-09-08 Reply

 * I make

Youripasted (/member/Youripasted/) 2012-08-29 Reply

Congratulations, one of the most detailed and well explained instructables I've
ever read. I'll be following your guides in the future. Regards :)

ongara_01 (/member/ongara_01/) 2012-07-31 Reply

simple machine..good job

Mr.Sanchez (/member/Mr.Sanchez/) 2012-07-31 Reply

You know what would be cool..?What if you place some kind of protactor to
measure propertly the angles of the bend.Just thought.

Mr.Sanchez (/member/Mr.Sanchez/) 2012-07-31 Reply

CLEVER!! thnks for share.

0xyJin (/member/0xyJin/) 2012-07-30 Reply

I think this would be great to use as a small acrylic bender. Just need to add a
heating element.

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . 0xyJin (/member/0xyJin/) Reply

2012-07-31
Hi OxyJin. That is a great idea! We have some old ceramic
heating elements from a women's hair straightener lying around here
somewhere... That idea might warrant a quick mod and new instructable :)

slabcitymr (/member/slabcitymr/) 2012-07-29 Reply

Great project!! Thank you!

altered14 (/member/altered14/) 2012-07-27 Reply

I think it's great, i have a the litttle 18" brake from harborfreight and the little vise
5" brake but i think this might work even better.

What was the gauge metal can you bend up to?

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . altered14 (/member/altered14/)

2012-07-27 Reply
Hi altered14.

Short useful answer: The only metal I have bent is 1/8" aluminum and I
have not tested it with anything else. Naturally, it will depend on the metal
you are trying to bend and the cross sectional area of it.

Long useless answer: I worked out on paper the thickest aluminum

stock you could bend assuming you were trying to bend a 1" wide piece
and could impart 50lb force on the lever arm. However, considering I
found yield strengths for aluminum everywhere from 35MPa up to
414MPa and was unsure which is actually correct for the standard
aluminum (which I think is annealed 6061 Aluminum) that we are using
the numbers were pretty useless...
 If you are worried about not getting enough force I would suggest
following some of the suggestions in the comments here and placing
longer handles on the tool, slotting the flat plat to accommodate different
thicknesses, and perhaps anchoring the tool to a bench.

If you make your own rendition be sure to share some pics here :)

dj_nme (/member/dj_nme/) 2012-07-27 Reply

Nice hack-together.

If you used larger sized angle-bar for the fixed back jaw, the wingnuts could be
set further back and allow bends greater than 90degress.
Using angle-bar the same size as the flat-bar use for clamping, the wingnuts
could be set twice as far back.
A second "stabilising/trailing arm" on the back of the fixed jaw would also make
the whole thing more stable.

Jasparus (/member/Jasparus/) 2012-07-27 Reply

Very nice. Perhaps by welding a 5 inch round pipe inside the angle handle it
may ease presure on the hand when bending.

scook9 (/member/scook9/) 2012-07-26 Reply

That's a nifty tool. A couple of things to consider for perhaps future versions:

1) Find another way to hinge the two pieces anywhere but over where you're
bending the part would allow for a cleaner, near right angle bend, and a smaller
radius for the bend will allow you to make an even more compact, right angle
bend. You could accomplish that by being able to change the thickness of the
hold-down plate.

2) Bench mounting the tool and as mentioned above, attaching a longer handle
would allow you to bend heavier gauge metal.

Muddle (/member/Muddle/) 2012-07-26 Reply

Why not reassemble the brake using flat head screws in countersunk holes
from the face side of the assembly and then you would be able to get acute
angle bends?

lsykes (/member/lsykes/) 2012-07-26 Reply

I did the same thing with a hammer and vice, (was a lot cheaper.)

barista (/member/barista/) 2012-07-23 Reply

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Aluminium bar is my material of choice for a
lot of projects and I usually bend it in the vice with a hammer. this is:
1. rarely accurate;
2. brutal ;
3. hard to avoid damaging the material.
Was considering this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261051109916?
ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649), but now I'll
be making my own.

aristide202 (/member/aristide202/) . barista (/member/barista/) 2012-07-26 Reply

 That's was my situation too . I usually use my heavy duty blacksmith vice,
very nice but too much for brass and aluminium smaller parts and
hammering is proper just for steel .
I'm gonna make thi device as soon as possible

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . barista (/member/barista/) Reply

2012-07-23
Hi barista, you are welcome :) Glad you will be finding it useful
and very stoked it is saving you from buying one. DIYing our way through
life.

Capt McGyver (/member/Capt+McGyver/) 2012-07-26 Reply

Great project which i'm excited to go and do. i'm with Barista, i use by vise and
beat the bend on the aluminum with rubber mallet :( . Thank you for sharing.

BlueCabbie (/member/BlueCabbie/) 2012-07-26 Reply

Nice simple design!

You should mention that when drilling metal bar, ALWAYS use some kind of
lubricant. Tapping fluid is the best (available at any hardware or auto parts
store, or Google it), but any oil will help. The oil pulls the heat away from the bit,
allowing it to cut faster, and prevents dulling the drill bit.

When drilling aluminum, using a fluid for tapping aluminum will prevent the
sticky aluminum from welding itself to the bit.

I use 'AlumTap' and 'Mystic Metal Mover' I googled off the net (for no other
reason than I liked the names.) :)

maxman (/member/maxman/) 2012-07-26 Reply

Great. This is exactly what I've been looking for. Will vote for this.

Edgar (/member/Edgar/) 2012-07-26 Reply

Since it's a neat Model that can bend not only Metal, but both Plastic and other
newfangled sheet materials, I've put a link to this on Nice Paper Toys:

http://www.nicepapertoys.com/profiles/blogs/bender-s-back

Edgar (/member/Edgar/) 2012-07-26 Reply

Where do I vote?

AcidHawk (/member/AcidHawk/) 2012-07-23 Reply

Thank you, I really like the simplicity of this design.

I realise you only needed 90 degree bends however I sometimes need a more
acute angle for some of the brackets I need to make up. I would suggest one
thing for consideration ... what about if you made the bench piece that you have
the wing-nuts on, a little bigger than the part you use to actually do the bend ...
so that the piece you are holding in your hand can actually fit between the wing-
nuts... that way you could actually get a bend of less than 90 degrees. (I.e. you
bend past 90 degrees for the acute angle I sometimes need.

Nice job though.

 ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . AcidHawk (/member/AcidHawk/)
2012-07-25 Reply
Hi AcidHawk, thanks for the suggestions. I think if I
build another one of these it will definitely be MUCH larger, employ
something similar to your suggestion for more acute angles and have the
ability to bend certain areas and not others (like a Box N Pan Brake).

In fact, to get more acute angles with this brake I might just notch out
holes for the wing-nuts to slip into. If so, I will post that mod. Thanks for
spurring thoughts :)

Topcat2021 (/member/Topcat2021/) 2012-07-22 Reply

Nice work on the brake, I may have to build one for myself as it sure beats
using the bench vise for small stuff.
Keep up the good work
Dan

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . Topcat2021 (/member/Topcat2021/)

2012-07-23 Reply
Hi Topcat2021, thanks for the nice comment. It
definitely beats pounding it out with the vice. Funny thing is, I actually
went this route because of the lack of a vice in the location I was building.
I probably would have just pounded out the parts on the vice to prototype
quickly but this is definitely a better long term solution. It will surely see
lots of use.

thoraxe (/member/thoraxe/) 2012-07-22 Reply

An improvement could be to add a slot so the bending handle can be extended

to get more leverage for thicker pieces/stronger metal

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . thoraxe (/member/thoraxe/) Reply

2012-07-23
Hi thoraxe, thanks for your suggestion. Yes, extending the lever
arm would allow for much healthier (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque)
bends!

joen (/member/joen/) 2012-07-22 Reply

One suggestion would be to widen the holes on the flat stock to slots so that
you can accommodate different thicknesses of soft metal to bend.

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . joen (/member/joen/) Reply

2012-07-23
Hi Joen, thanks for the suggestion. It sounds like a great next
step, especially if combined with thoraxe's suggestion too. Collaborate
and innovate.

blkhawk (/member/blkhawk/) 2012-07-22 Reply

Great project! I have a few pre-drilled L-shaped steel bars like the ones
depicted on your Instructable. Thank you for sharing!

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . blkhawk (/member/blkhawk/) Reply

2012-07-22
Hi blkhawk, glad you liked it. Get to it with your extra metal
stock! One more project to add to the queue of many :)
 kelseymh (/member/kelseymh/) 2012-07-22 Reply

Mais excelente! Construir seus prprios gabaritos uma habilidade bsica para
qualquer metal ou woodworker. Geralmente, leva mais tempo para criar todos
os modelos que voc precisa do que realmente para construir o projeto em
mos. Voc fez um timo trabalho descrevendo um freio DIY!

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . kelseymh (/member/kelseymh/)

2012-07-22 Responder
Oi kelseymh, obrigado pelo comentrio e apoio!

strube1369 (/member/strube1369/) 2012-07-22 Responder

Bom projeto. Alis, eles chamam esses "freios de metal". S pensei em

mencionar ...

ImagineN4tion (/member/ImagineN4tion/) . strube1369 (/member/strube1369/)

2012-07-22 Responder
Oi strube1369, obrigado por apontar isso. Mais um
tidbit para a aljava :)

I Mais Comentrios

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