YamaguchiUniversity

Yamaguchi University

Transmissionof Wave Past a rigid VerticalThin Barrier

By K. KANAyAMA and T. FuJIwARA

Abstract
A theory ispresented forthe transmission of waves passing through a rigid verticaL thin
barrierextending from above the water surface to some distance below the surface.
This theory isbased on consideration of WAVE MOMENTUM transmission. Labora-
tory data are presentedto show that thistheory isuseful forthe engineering designstandpoint.

Introduction

One possibletype breakwaterconsists of a thin rigid barrierextending from

of

abovc the water surface to some distancebelow the water surface. This barriermay
be sidingly mounted on a pilestructure, forexample. One of the problemsinthe design
of such a structure isto determinethe distancebelow the freesurface, to which such a
barriermust extend in order to function effectively.
A theory of such a structure isdeve]opedhere together with the results oflaboratory
testson a model structure under a variety of wave conditions.

TheoreticalDevelopmenti)72},3)4)
Three theories are given,one developed herein and two due to F. Ursell and
R. L. Wiegel.
Ursell'sTheory fOrDeep Water
In 1947 Ursell developed a theory forthe partial transmission and partiatreflection
of gravitywater waves in deep water fora fixedvertical infinitelythin barrierextending
from the water surfttce to some depth below the surface.
He fbund that

Hi K,(2rrdlL) '"'"'''(1)
KT= =IJ';'2LI?(2zd!L)+Ki(2zd/L)''

H}

where K, and Iidenotethe modified Besell's

Function,L iswave length,KT istransmis-
sion coeMcient, Hi and HT are incidentwave heightand transmitted wave height
respectively.

Wiegel'sTheory for Power Transmission

In 1960 Wiegel developed for the partialtransmission and partialre-
a theory
fiection
of uniform long-crested periodic water waves infinite depth fora fixedyertical
infinitely
thin barrierextending from the water surface to some depthbelow the surface.
He fbund that

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428 K. KANAyAMA and T. FuJiwARA

K.-=-tL--V,t-n-h2,Lts.A-h,h,,d2#2 h=ZiJ
.........(2)

where k denotesthe wave number, h iswater depth,d isthe submerged lengthof vertical
thin barrier.

Momentum Transmission Theory5)!6)

Considerthe partialtransmission and partialrefiection of uniform finite amplitude
shallow water waves in finite depth fbr a fixed vertical infinitetythin barrierextending
from the water surface to some depth below the surface,
The wave motion, being such as could be produced from rest by natural fbrces,is
irrotational.

y.
n. WAVE
$.VV:L x

SemA wo
v h
u

Fig. 1 Definition sketch for the finiteamptitude wave.

The fluidisassumed to be incompressible.

Lapla e's equation therefbreisexpressed by

72ip-=O --ny(3)

or

72e-O `.`....(4)

where diand utdenote the velocity potentialand stream functionrespectively. The

boundary condition on the bottom, y=: -h, is that no flow occurs across this surface,
i.e.,

V- Ooip, aout. ---(5)

-O
.v--h
:--

From Eqs. (3),

(4)and (5),
we assume that diand V are giyen by the fo11owing
equatlons.

ip =cx-cfi cosh k(h+y) sin kx (6)

lfr
== cy-eB sinh k(h+y) cos kx i(7)

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Transrnissionof Wave Pasta rigid Vertical

Thin Barrier 429

Using the relation

(bef)y-:n==O '''''''''(8)

we leadan equation:

(9)
. n- fisinh k(h+n) cos kx

from which we obtain the fbllowingequation:

ny== Ska2kh coth +a cos kx+ -iYka2 coth kh cos 2kx

+tk2a3(coth2kh+t)cos3kx+ (10)

Hence, considering the progressive wave, we have

n := -llka2 coth kh +a cos k(x - ct) +

tl- ka2 coth kh cos 2k(x - ct)

+tk2a3(coth2 kh+S)cos3k(x-ct), -(11)

where a=6 sinh kh(1+-2-k262(1+7sinh2 kh)l . ".H..-(I2)

In a similar manner, we obtain a relation fbr .

by using the relation

(ut)y-n'-d :Cd, "-''''''(13)

we derivethe followingequation:

n' -5-kr2 coth k(h - d) +r

=
cos kx + -S-kr2 coth k(h - d) cos 2kx

+tk2r3(coth2k(h-d)+tlcos3kx, i(14)

where r=-a[sinh{k(h-d)}lsinhkh].
(15)

The momentum of unifbrm flow betweenthe water surface and some leveld located
below the wave trough isgiven by

ML =pcdL+ -S-ka2pcdLIcoth i
kh- -fii'IPh--k(h
k(h m d.rr)
ifk,COkShh
........a6)
)
On the other hand, the momentum of stationary wave between V=O and e==cd
isgivenby

agw == -S:
S::Sye
,O,
p- dx cly =-
pc dL ---"" 7)

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430 K. KANAyAMA and T. FuJIwARA

We findfinally
the waye momentum between"=O and V==cd as follow:

?itf-npa2 c(coth kh- Si!h-k(h-.gigk.

k(h -.d)l L-Ei(is)
S-Ok-Shh
from which, we obtain the momentum distribution:
zpeka2
mt.. COSh 2k(h-d) .,..,..,.(lg)
sinh2 kh
Further,from Eqs, (18)the mass transport velocity u isdeterminedas fo11ows:

u'=-iL
ao[Ii;[ =ck2a2 -CP-gh,i2.k6-(,hk-hd) -.ao)

Momentum distribution is shown in Fig. 2.

Fig.3 shows the energy distribution.

o o
+

/// %
/
k
'

{oJ'Lio
o5 x oft(ts o,s

L7
-x-- o.2o
O 20
O,30
x o{3o

l.O 1.o
O t 3 4 5 O 3 - 5
va',2
y62ctL
,,st
Fig,2 Distributionof the wave momentum.
fll61.x.{fiI,
Fig.3 Distribution
of the wave energy.

Case 1. SurfaceObstacle

Suriace,ObetaeLe.
z twe. F.L,

7
MR.,i,;,:.iibMk
d-i
Ml
MT.
,

'.--nivi7.tMr

Fig. 4 Definition sketch forthe assurnption.

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Transmission of Wave Past a rigld VerticalThin Barrier 431

The fbllowingassumption have been made in working out the theory of wave

transmission and reflection by a surface obstacle,

1 : Incident wave isfinite amplitude wave.

2: The only momentum transmitted isthat from the bottom to the depth d; that
is,the momentum between the water surface and the depth d isreflected (see Fig.4),
3: Water is homogeneous, and external forcessuch as those due to the earth
rotation and the lunarand solar attractions are neglected, becauseof the comparatively
small body of water contained in the challnel. With these assumptions, a theory of
momentum transmission and refiection by a surface obstacle can be developed as
fbllow:

y.RigidThinBaniet u
S.WL VVhyEx,S-VVL Wav
:g}gca
oustacle

(a). (b).
Fig. 5 Definition
sketch of the surfaoe obstacle,

From Eqs. (19)

and (20),
we obtain

- pc2k2Uf -(21)
M}-m2s6 4kA
si.h
(Si"h
4kh+4kh)

Mk = -2sP6C
ii2hH,kkh
(sinh 4kh + 4kh)

2s,kihH4'`kh
- 4k (h- d) + 4kd} ....
==
2sPi {sinh
4kh sinh (22)
M' = pc2k2HS (Sinh
4kh +4kh)
2s6 sinh 4kh
2,,k
=
4k(hmd)+4k(h-d)}, (23)
2;6C .2hH4fk"n{sinh

where Mi denotesthe transported momentum of incidentwave over the whole depth,

MR the wave momentum refiected between the water surface and the depth d below
the still water leyel,
and MT the wave momentum transmitted between the bottom and
the depth d below the stillwater level.Consideringthe conservation of momentum,
we obtain

M,=M.+M.+fM, -(24)

where fisthe coeMcient of momeiitum loss.

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432 K, KANAyAMA and T. FuJTwARA

SubstitutingEqs. (21),
(22)and (23)into Eqs. (24),
we obtain, after development.

(i-f) -(

)` )`=Ki+K#
f:f +(
,H,k}
-''''"(25)

where KT and KR denote the transmission coeMcient and refiection coeMcjent respec-
tively.
The portion of wave momentum transmitted between the bottom and the depth d
below the still water levelis

pc2k2H7 4k(h - d) +4k(h - d)}

M. 5-s--sifih {Sinh4kh
(26)
M} pc2k2Hf
,

256 sinh `kh (sinh4kh+4kh)

and the portionof waye momentum reflected between the water surface and the depth
d below the stillwater levelis

ii:k
pc2k2Hf

ii,6
4 h- in )L+4.k-dl.,,........(27)
4 k (h d.s
h".,illla2
-iiLlf(k}..,.'2s6rs'ififf
(,ii h . 4ih

the portionof the waye heighttransmitted between the bottom and the depth d below
the still water levelis
-
n-d'5.
tl:F, -=V.Mf =-Vsinh4,k,Shi,

,itlis,k +.,.....(2s)

in Fig.8. This shows that the ratio of the transmitted to

This function i$ shown
incidentwave heightsisproportional to the fburthpower of the ratio of the transmitted
to incidentwave momentum flux. Similarly,the portion of wave height reflected
between the water surface and the depth d below the still water levelis
'-Vsi-n-hrr4klhl.G,://.,'-,
'E,.

ill}
zs-V-
k.(2,in,d)+`kd,
.........(2g)

which shows that the ratio of the reflected to incidentwave heightisproportional to the
fburthpower of the ratio of the reflected to incidentwave momentum fiux.

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Transrnission
of Wave Pastarigid VerticalThin Barrier 433

Case 2. Submerged Obstacle

Y'
R;3;Bd.t'!,".r- Y'
wave. S.WLWave.-
`'

T
x.

(h-dx h. (h-d).ilndh,

(a). (b)
Fig. 6 Definitionsketch ef the subrnarged obstacle,

The precedingassumptions are also rnade in working out the theory of wave trans-
mission and reflection by a submerged obstaclg. The theory in this case, can be de-
veloped as fbllow:

From Eqs. (19)

and (20),
we obtain

M}-- pc2k2Hf (Sinh4kh+4kh) .......(3o)

2s6si.h 4kh

Mft - pc2k2Hf4kh {Si"h

4k(h'd)+4k (h-d)} ...(31)
2s6 sinh

MT ==
{sinh
-2-sP6C,2ik.2h{l2' 4kh-sinh4k(h -d) +4hd} . ---(32)
h-
In a similar the portionof surface wave momentum
manner, transmitted belween
the water surface and the depth d below the stillwater levelis

MT -M' sinh4kh-sinh4k(h-d)+4kd ''''''-''C33)

Ml ,
sinh4kh+4kh

and the portionof wave momentum reflected between the bottom and the depth d below
the stillwater levetis
- d)
.4.<k..--gtn-b.Ak(h.:.d) + 4k
=
(h"'-' ---(34)
A4} sinh 4kA-[Fttk-h'
The portionof the wave heighttransmitted between the water surface and the
depth d below the still water levelisgivenby,
- ''rm4hi.
'(h,
'

l-VsinhU4'k''h'
il;f.-VIII //tisifit
k k--
hdJ'+'Znk-ff,
+`(3s)

which shows that the ratio of the transmitted to incidentwave heightisproportional

to
the fourthpower of the ratio of the transmitted to incident waye momentum flux.
Similarlythe portionof the wave height reflected between the bottom and the
depth d below the stillwater levelisgivenby

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434 K. KANAyAMA and T, FuJIwARA

-h-:"a>',

tZl: -V-i.'

i--=-Vsinh4,k,.khi,,d
-+(36)

which that the ratio of the reflected to incidentwave heightsisproportional to

shows

the fourthpower of the ratio of the refiected to incident .wave momentum flux.

ExperimentalEquipment and Proeedure

WaveHbHsH-H3H2 Hswave{}enerare
Abs,rber
---
')twt
l

Ri;dT;'Hl.NHb:waveqatjte
Barr}er
Fig, 7 Arrangement forthe testchannel,

The experiments were O.7meter wide O.9 meter deep and 20 meter
performedusing a

long wave testchannel at the university of Yamaguchi at Tokiwa.

The rigid yertical thin barrierwas fittedintothe channel about halfWay between
the waye generator and the opposite edge. The wave generator was set to give a wave
train of given height and period. The wave heightwere measured with the barrjer
installed in the desiredposition.
The wave generatorwas started and measurements were made on waves. The
refiected wave heightwas measured by the Healy'smethod. Only the data obtained
on the leeside wave meter were used in computing the transmission coeMcient, HT!Hi.
In analyzing the data,the firstfew waves were passed by as these were not of
constant period,thereafterthe analyzing was made forthe next few waves.
Considerablecare was exercised in placing the barrierso that there would be no
leakagebetween the barrierand the walls of the wave channel. Experimental condi-
tions were as foIlows:
Fig.8 shows examples of measurements taken inthe channel.

Table 1. Experimental conditions.

Water Depthl.I25,
um
30,35, 40 (cm)
hd
H',/LhiL
T i,s, io,is,2o (cm)
O.O05--O.1

O.08NO,5

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maee
Transmission Wave Past Thin Barner 4a5

#ag
of a ng!dVertical

/j
va
s......e $

s/,ee
fintva
ge
--su
"stnt w
tuSmuzae

#/$
di
ff
,,l
{ltpt

wwr"wrlimava eeefiS:M2

$gei
illi
::if.lf,figmiigS/-mo'/Yy",es,asan2:ik
ny

veIWI,pt "

ee
/pa, re f '/\
"lj '

k
yi#' k

ii,ee ,ig ,ew

sirmepmif,wagtrtt g , ges

g$k
11ee
1eei /l
ts
//
ee eett
/ ss
Infront of bdrrier

/j es
tw ke
ew
ew
ee it

ee,l, /i
di

E ge
" '

/
'
'
'
ew

g
'

i
ee
'ee

ee iew
'k

ss$ es
,
'/ iee

,.

x ,,
, , ,, In lce of Barrter
,/ew,eatwee ,
"i{i
#fi'#:W
ES,i$i
li,i,i
pmiXg,iS/lg7,/E,,l,l

:Sist

ma
fizvaIinlffi,X
epmmgee

ecss
m

es enffffwh
ge.k

ee
utfigem

gs$,, w
mpfivpm:}ee

Reflected wave
Fig 8 Samplewave record

Results
The results are shown m Fig 9rv t7,compared with the momentum transmission
theory
It appears that the theory is useful to the engmeering, but any improvement in the
theory is needed The trend of decreasem the value of the transmtssion coeMcient

HT/Hi with mcreasmg wave steepness is consLstent This would be expected from the
factthat, all other conditions bemg equal, the wave momentum increases as the wave
steepness is increased, hence the momentum loss due to separation at the bottom of
the barrierwould increase with increasing wave steepness, resultmg m decreasem the

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436 K, KANAyAMA and T. FuJiwARA

[,o i.o
N...ql
UtC.=O.o8 b[.=o-io
KT
KT

o.5 o.S

XNXX

x
o o
o O.5
% LO
o 9'kO.5Fig, LO
Fig. 9 10

LO LO
!>C-= O. [4-
0eo ha=o.16
KT o
fo
Nbsx.l
Noo x..Eal

o-5 o.S

\
x
o o
o clih o.5 LO o
% 05 LO
Fig,11 Fig,12

i.o LO
bc=o.tT
"si,g,,.ag
be=O,20
ooe
KT KT

coogx,,l]

O.5 o.5

xt)tfII

o o
o % o.5

Fig, 13
LO o
% Fig.I4
o5 l,o

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Transmissionof Wave Pasta rigid Yertical

Thin Barrier 437

l.O l.O

ha --O,2B
tt=O,2-
KT
KT

o,5 oS x
oN8 oee
DiiS<iii
Oe
o
o

oo oo
gtkos 1.0
% o.s [.o
Fig. 15 Fig.16

1.o
ISi .
=O.B2

o5

,Nog
o

o
O
%05 kO
Fig.17
Fig. 9-17 Comparisen of the experimental results with calculated results,

(o Exp, -Author, -.-Wiegel)

transmission coeMcient. The momentum transmission theory predicts

the transmission
coeMcient more closely fbrlong waves than does the power transmission theory.

Conclusion
The mornentum transmission theory predicts
the transmission coeMcient adequately
for some engineering purpose. A consistent trend of decreasingtransmission coeM-
cient with increasingwave steepness isevident in the laboratorymeasurements, The
portionof the transmitted wave heightto incidentwave heightisproportionalto the
fourthpower of the ratio of the transmitted wave momentum to the incidentwave
momentum.

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438 K. KANAyAMA and T.FuilwARA

References
T. H. Havelock; Phil,,Mag., 8 (1929),
1)2)3)4)5)6) 569
W, R. Dean: Proc,,Cambridgc Phil., Soc.,(1945),231
E Ursell: Proc., Cambridge PhiL.,Soc., (1947),
374
R. L, Wiegel: Proc.,A. S. C. E., Vol. WWI, (1960), 1
S, Sato: Hydrodynamics,Morikita, (1963)
K. Kanayama: J. S. L D. R, E,, Vol. 56 (1975),
29

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