ADVENTURE JUNKIES GUIDES

CLIMBING
QUICK STARTER GUIDE TO

LAST UPDATE - MARCH 2017

35 ROCK CLIMBING TIPS

FOR
PAGE12
BEGINNERS

&
EASY-TO-READ CLIMB-
ING
PAGE22
GEAR GUIDES

&
WAYS TO TRAIN AND STAY
SAFE
PAGE30
WHILE CLIMBING
 The information contained in this guide is for informational purposes only. Any advice that we give
is our opinion based on own own experience. You should always seek the advice of a professional
before acting on something that we have published or recommended. Please understand that there
are some links contained in this guide that we may benefit from financially. The material in this guide
may include information, products or services by third parties. Third Party Materials comprise of
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ing this guide, you agree that ourselves and our company is not responsible for whatever might hap-
pen due the decisions made relating to any information presented in this guide.

2017 The Adventure Junkies, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Published by The Adventure Junkies.

Photography
Magazine Team All photographs from iStock by Getty Images

AlexBrylov: Pages 1,9.1, JimmyLung: page 21.2

EDITOR: Antonio Cala INFO 16,21.4
EDITOR: Amanda Zeisset INFO epantha: page 4.1
gregepperson: pages
WRITER: Derek Cheng INFO 4.2,7.2,9.2,10.2,
15.2,21.1,29.1,34-35
WRITER: Kim McGrenere INFO photobac: pages 6-7.1
Remains: pages
DESIGNER: Danielle Zeisset 8,10.1,12,17,22,23.2
email: daniellezeisset@gmail.com MadKruben: page 11
anatoliy_gleb: page 13
mmpile: page 14.1
roibu: 14.2
sezer66: pages 15.1,21.3, 24
photobac: pages 18.1,19.1
20,32.1
ArtmannWitte: page 18.2
PatrickPoendl: page 19.2
ponsulak: page23
HeavenUSA: page 24
BackyardProduction: page
25.1
lzf: page 25.2
StefanieDegner: page26
Olga_Danylenko: page 28
GlobalStock: page 29
IPGGutenbergUKLtd:
page 30
YanLev: Page 31.2
DragonImages: page 31.1
shironosov: page 32.2
Buenaventuramariano:
page 33
ueuaphoto: page 36
HennPhotography: page 37

Dream it. Learn it. Live it.

02 03
WELCOME/ MESSAGE FROM
CONTENTS CLIMBING THE EDITORS
EDITORS: Antonio Cala & Amanda Zeisset EMAIL: antonio.amanda@theadventurejunkies.com

Welcome to The Adventure Junkies

Get Started Climbing Quick Starter Guide!
06 Climbing FAQ
12 Beginner Essentials: 35 Rock Climbing Youve probably found your way to this ebook through our website, or maybe a friend
passed it along to you. Either way, were happy youre here.
Tips For Beginners
16 A Beginners Guide to Types of We wrote this guide because when we were just starting out climbing we couldnt find a
single easy to read resource about how to get into the sport. The techie articles from mag-
Climbing azines and websites just made us more confused. Also, none of our friends were climbers
so we had to go ask around to find the answers we needed. The process left us feeling lost
and overwhelmed, we dont want that to happen to you.
Gear Up Page 22: Find the best gear for your climb

The Adventure Junkies was created to inspire you and give you the right tools to explore
22 Harnesses 101 the outdoors. We call it the dream it, learn it, live it process. First, you get inspired by oth-
24 Climbing Shoes 101 ers. Then, you learn the basics of the sport. And finally, you do it yourself. We do this by
providing you with high quality and practical education, and connecting you with a com-
26 Climbing Ropes 101 munity of like minded adventures from all over the world. And, because you are reading
28 Climbing Helmets 101 this right now means youre well on your way to achieving your goal!

This eBook is a quick starter guide, and the purpose of this guide is to do just that - get you

Be Prepared
30 How to Train for Rock Climbing
33 How to Stay Safe While Climbing
36 How to Increase Finger Strength
started fast. It is not a climbing manual and we wont cover every aspect of the sport. It
will, however, take you through the basics and give you the tools you need to take the first
steps in becoming a climber.
To all of our subscribers, followers and friends out there, thank you for the gift of your sup-
port. We only hope that this free guide can begin to repay you for the time youve given us.
Page 30: Tips on training for your climb
Heres to you and your many years of climbing adventures to come!

Antonio & Amanda

Dream it. Learn it. Live it.

04 05
 You can get into climbing just gym too it can be a great way to
about anywhere thanks to the grow- make friends.
ing popularity of climbing gyms. Another way to meet climbing
You can learn a lot about climbing in partners is to attend an outdoor

ALL YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

indoor gyms, and save the outdoor workshop, clinic, or climbing festival.

CLIMBING FAQ
destinations for climbing trips. For- A few suggestions include the Flash
tunately there are outdoor climbing Foxy Womens Climbing Festival, the
spots spanning the country. Some, Red Rock Rendezvous, or Rocktober-
like Red Rock Canyon just outside of fest in the Red River Gorge.
Las Vegas, can be quite inexpensive Facebook and other social media
to get to. outlets can be great ways to find
If there is no climbing gym in groups of people who might also be
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO your town but you are still super looking for partners.
keen, you could build your own
bouldering wall. Many people build
home walls to supplement their I have a fear of
So youve heard all the hype and want to try your hand at climbing. climbing training, but they can also heights, does this
Maybe your friends are hitting the local crag each weekend? Maybe you saw the 60 Minutes Alex Honnold Special back in 2012? Maybe theres a new gym
be a great way to start a community
in towns with no gyms. This is often
mean climbing isnt
opening five minutes from you? Dont let your burning questions about climbing hold you back! We at The Adventure Junkies are ready to answer your how bouldering co-ops get started. right for me?
most frequently asked questions about how to get into climbing, debunk the myths, and get you on the rock sooner. Theres no need to hesitate and keep If you have a fear of heights
there are many options for you. One
wondering if climbing is right for you the only way to find out is to give it a try.
None of my friends possibility is to try bouldering, which
are outdoorsy, how involves climbing short problems
GENERAL QUESTIONS Do I need a strong upper body to climb?
A strong upper body is not a necessity for climbing. Climbing technique is
can I find climbing without a rope and then either
jumping or down climbing to a mat
far more important than brute strength. Learning fundamental climbing skills partners? beneath you.
Is rock climbing only for young, fit people? can lead to significant improvements in new climbers and builds a great base Climbing gyms often host adult
teams or groups in addition to
If you are psyched on route A STRONG UPPER BODY IS NOT
Absolutely not! Rock climbing is an inclusive sport that is very accessible, upon which to progress. Learning how to climb efficiently is key. climbing though, there are a few
particularly with the rise of climbing gyms over the past 20 years. Indoor Eventually, climbers with great technique will need to make strength their youth programs. Inquire at ways to work through fear of A NECESSITY FOR CLIMBING.
your local gym to see if there is a
gyms provide spaces where people in all stages of life can experience the gains if they wish to climb more difficult routes. In this case, upper body
strength will become more important. program available. Many gyms also
heights. The first is addressing
whether or not fear of heights is the
CLIMBING TECHNIQUE IS FAR
thrill of climbing.
Several climbing gyms offer specific programs for youth-at-risk, com-
have meet-up sheets that you can
add your name to, or ride-share
true root of the fear. Perhaps it is MORE IMPORTANT THAN BRUTE
munity groups, or womens gatherings. I have worked with women into their
eighties and people with all body types. Climbing is for everyone.
I dont live near a climbing destination, can I programs for carpooling to local
actually fear of falling, or fear of the
unknown? Another strategy is to STRENGTH.
still climb? climbing spots. Dont be afraid to be
friendly and chat people up in the
really learn and be comfortable with KIM MCGRENERE

06 07
 GET YOUR
First and foremost you need to understand the risks associated with
climbing and the personal safety measures required.
CLIMBING OUTDOORS
GEAR When route climbing you need to know proper belay technique and rope
Find out what kind of gear management. As a lead climber, knowing how to clip quickdraws correctly Ive climbed for a month in the gym, am I
you need depending on
what kind of climbing you
and maintain good fall lines are essential. Clear and effective communication
between partners is critical. Of course, a deep understanding of how to use
ready to go outside?
want to do. We strongly recommend against heading outdoors unless you have
PAGES the necessary equipment and inspect it for wear is important.
knowledgeable and responsible mentors accompanying you. When climbing
As a boulderer you must know how to fall safely. Good spotting technique
22 - 29 is also very important. If youre climbing outside, learn good pad placement
outside there is much more to consider when managing risk. If you do not
have access to mentors in the community, we recommend hiring an AMGA-
and how to assess dangerous fall zones.
certified guide to get you started outside.
No matter where you are climbing or in what discipline, inspect fixed gear
for extensive wear, carefully consider hazards in the area including weather
and conditions, and listen to your body to prevent injuries. How can I be a good steward at the crag?
Climbers take pride in their crag ethics. Be respectful of other climbers,
What gear do I need to rock climb? the rock you are climbing on, and the land around it. Take turns on routes
The gear you will need for rock climbing depends on the type of climbing or boulders, be mindful of others waiting, avoid spraying beta, brush your
you want to do. If youre climbing indoors youll have the option to rent gear, tick marks, and dont be obnoxious. Pack out whatever you pack in, stay on
but eventually purchasing your own equipment is definitely worth it. The trails and off of sensitive areas, and know the bathroom procedures for the
basics include climbing shoes and chalk, but if youll be climbing routes you ecosystem youre climbing in.
will also need a harness, belay device, and possibly your own rope.
If youre bouldering outside you may want to add a crash pad or two to How can I support climbing in America?
your gear closet. We suggest joining the Access Fund. Your membership fee goes towards
Sport climbers will need quickdraws, personal anchor systems, and a top- protecting the access and integrity of the land that climbers enjoy, and is a
anchor set-up. fantastic way to join the greater community.
Traditional climbers will want additional anchor sets, extendable quick-
draws, cams and nuts.
Even more gear is required for multipitch climbing, alpine climbing and
ice climbing. We recommend learning the specific gear required for which-
ever discipline you are most interested in.

Where can I find advice about buying gear?

Local climbing shops or your local climbing gym are great places to seek
advice about climbing gear. There are a lot of overwhelming options to
search through out there, so seeking guidance from knowledgeable experts
THE GEAR YOU WILL NEED FOR ROCK CLIMBING DEPENDS ON THE is a great place to start.
Browsing online can also be really helpful. Here at The Adventure Junkies
TYPE OF CLIMBING YOU WANT TO DO. IF YOURE CLIMBING INDOORS we offer gear reviews and guides. Here are a few of our gear articles to get
YOULL HAVE THE OPTION TO RENT GEAR, BUT EVENTUALLY PUR- you started.

CHASING YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT IS DEFINITELY WORTH IT. https://www.theadventurejunkies.com/

category/climbing/climbing-gear/
KIM MCGRENERE

the equipment you are using so that you can truly trust your gear. Lastly, try and chalk. Sport climbing requires more gear, and trad climbers need more
learning from different mental training resources, like the Rock Warriors Way, gear still. We also recommend investing in an AMGA-certified guide when
for exercises, suggestions, and new ways of thinking. you first climb outside.

I dont have a lot of money, what are the

costs I can expect? CLIMBING SAFETY AND GEAR
Unfortunately climbing can have some financial barriers. Some gear, like
chalk bags and climbing shoes, can be safe to purchase second hand, but it is Is rock climbing safe?
best to buy any safety equipment new as you can never be sure of its history. Rock climbing is a dangerous sport; however it is possible to substantially
If you want to climb inside but are worried about the high costs of mod- reduce the risks in climbing. It is critical to learn how to use all equipment to
ern gyms, there are a few options. Check around your town to see if there are the manufacturers standards. Learning basic technique so that you can climb
any not-for-profit facilities, gyms in community centers, or climbing co-ops as in control also minimizes risk. Most of the safety in a climbing situation is
these are often less expensive. Alternatively, bigger gyms often offer discount the responsibility of the climber usually dangerous situations are the result
rates in non-peak hours or have special rates for students. If money is a very of human error.
serious set-back, ask about volunteer opportunities such as belaying for kids
groups in exchange for free drop-in passes.
Most outdoor climbing spots are free, so gear is primary the financial What do I need to do to stay safe while
burden. Bouldering is the lowest cost because all you really need are shoes
climbing?
08 09
 CLIMBING PROGRESSION
I want to get better at climbing, where
should I start?
The first step is to climb a lot. Observe those around you to learn how
they approach a route or problem, use their feet, and move their bodies. Con-
sider taking a technique lesson. If youre climbing outdoors, climb in as many
areas and on as many rock types as possible. Push yourself.
Consider adopting a training plan. There are a lot of great books out there
that can help you progress as well, such as How to Climb 5.12.

I am female, are there women-specific spac-

es where I can grow as a climber?
The climbing community as a whole has come a long way in supporting
women in the sport. Still, there can be advantages to climbing solely with
other women, in terms of support, understanding, and climbing style.
Many gyms offer women-specific clubs and programs. There are also sev-
eral festivals and clinics popping up around the country, like the Flash Foxy
Womens climbing festival, the Moab Womens Clinic, and workshops through
Chicks with Picks, to name a few.

Where can I learn more about climbing?

You can learn about climbing in AMGA courses, classes offered in climb-
ing gyms, and through community mentors. Online there are an abundance
of resources as well. Climbing magazines offer tips for improvement, motivat-
ing stories, and up to date news on whos doing what in the community.
If you work a desk job, climbing podcasts can also be a great resource for
furthering your climbing education.

HAVE MORE QUESTIONS?

If you still have more climbing questions you would like to get answered,
head to The Adventure Junkies Forum and post it there. The suppportive
TAJ community is always happy to help each other out.

CLIMBING FORUM

10
BEGINNER
ESSENTIALS
Here at The Adventure Junkies we
understand firsthand the addiction
to rock climbing. We also know that
improving at the sport is a lifelong
pursuit. To help you with that mis-
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO
sion, weve put together a list of tips
to up your climbing game whether
youre brand new to the sport or
have been at it for years.
35 ROCK CLIMBING TIPS FOR BEGINNERS 1 CLIMB WHENEVER YOU
CAN. When you are starting
So youve finally tried your hand at rock climbing and it turns out you love it! The physical out, there is no substitu-
challenge, the social aspects, the problem solving, the feeling of defying gravity youve tion for spending as much time as
been hooked by it all. Are you wondering how to get from first-time gumby to proficient possible actually climbing. Climbing
gyms are a great resource as they
expert as quickly as possible? Thats where we come in with our very best rock climbing
offer many routes spanning a wide
tips for beginners. range of difficulties and styles. Gyms
are also a great place to pick up tips
by observing others.
2 TAKE AN INTRO TO
CLIMBING COURSE at
your local climbing gym.
Intro courses are especially vital if
you will be doing any rope climbing.
Instructors will teach you how to
belay safely, how to tie a figure eight
follow through knot and how to
communicate effectively.
3 FIND A MENTOR in the
community. With the rise
in popularity of modern
climbing gyms, rock climbing men-
torship is becoming less common. If
you can find a trusted expert in your
community who is willing to mentor
you, you can benefit immensely
from his or her knowledge.
4
CONSIDER SETTING
PERSONAL GOALS to
help motivate you. These
can be as simple as managing
your fear of falling, learning a new
technique, or pushing yourself into
a new grade range. Ensure that your
goals are SMART: Specific. Measur-
able. Attainable. Relevant. Timely.
5
START A CLIMBING
JOURNAL to track your
mental and physical pro-
gress. If you transition to climbing
outdoors, consider joining an online
track-your-climbing platform like 8a
or Sendage. These sites are commu-
nity spaces where people can share
and view climbs theyve completed
and get psyched to try new things.
6 MAKE A LIST OF
LEARN GOOD MOVEMENT,
PLACES YOU WOULD
LOVE TO CLIMB. Rock
climbing trips can take you to some CAREFUL FOOTWORK, BALANCE,
breathtaking corners of the world.
A few Adventure Junkies sugges- AND BODY POSITIONING
tions include: Yosemite, California.
Kalymnos, Greece. Rocklands, South BEFORE WORRYING ABOUT
Africa. Chiang Mai, Thailand. Blue
Mountains, Australia.
GETTING STRONGER.
TECHNIQUES TO KIM MCGRENERE
BECOME A BETTER
ROCK CLIMBER
7
CLIMBING IS MUCH
MORE ABOUT TECH-
NIQUE THAN BRUTE
STRENGTH. Any experienced
climber will tell you that being a
GOOD climber is key when you are
just starting out. Learn good move-
ment, careful footwork, balance, and
body positioning before worrying
about getting stronger.
8
LEARN HOW TO USE
YOUR FEET EFFEC-
TIVELY. Careful, inten-
tional foot placements can increase
the control you have over your
climbing. Great climbing begins with
great footwork watch any expert
and youll find their foot placements
are always silent and deliberate. A
great way to practice is by adding
footwork drills into your warm up.
9 TRY TO KEEP YOUR
ARMS STRAIGHT and
ROCK CLIMBING BODY
ing is slow and controlled and most
make use of your skeletal moves are essentially reversible.
advantage. Holding yourself up Dynamic climbing utilizes power MAINTENANCE AND
with bent arms (a lock-off position) and momentum, and is useful when INJURY PREVENTION
is extremely tiring and will build you need to move your COG over
13
up the lactic acid in your forearms, larger distances before resuming Its crucial to WARM
pumping you out in no time. stable balance. Dynamic moves are UP BEFORE CLIMB-
usually irreversible. Both static and ING to help prevent
10 KEEP YOUR CENTER
OF GRAVITY (COG)
LOW, CLOSE TO THE
dynamic climbing are useful move-
ment strategies.
injury. Your warm-up should include
three stages: 1) light cardio to raise
your heart rate and get blood flow-
12
WALL, AND ABOVE YOUR GET YOUR MENTAL ing, 2) dynamic stretching, and 3)
BASE OF SUPPORT. This will GAME DIALED IN. sport-specific warm-up, such as 30
help you to use the big muscles in The mental aspects of minutes of easy bouldering.
your legs more, dissuading you from rock climbing are arguably as impor-
14
pulling in too much with your arms. tant as the physical aspects. Learn DO CRITICAL OPPO-
It will also make it easier to maintain to focus and concentrate, deal with SITION EXERCISES to
stable balance while resting and fears, accept failure, handle your take care of your bodys
while moving. ego, engage in positive self-talk, balance and composition. Climbers
and more. The Rock Warriors Way do a lot of pulling and tend to have
11
LEARN THE DIFFER- is a fantastic resource with tons of overdeveloped lats and shoulders.
ENCE BETWEEN applicable exercises. The climbers hunch is a very com-
STATIC AND DY- mon posture seen in those who are
NAMIC CLIMBING. Static climb- not maintaining balance in their up-
13

demos at climbing gyms. Demos
are a great way to test out different
models first hand before you buy.
Keep an eye out for shoe demos at
climbing festivals as well.
28
If you have the unfor-
tunate luck of sitting at
a desk all day for work,
TRY LISTENING TO CLIMBING
PODCASTS. The pioneer rock
climbing podcast is the Enormocast,
33
Moving from indoor to
outdoor climbing can
be overwhelming and
dangerous. Unless you have a super
awesome and reliable mentor with
a lot of experience, WE RECOM-

23 LEARN AS MUCH
ABOUT GEAR AS
YOU CAN. Companies
release information about all their
latest innovations each year, and are
a great resource if you really want to
geek out. We at The Adventure Junk-
ies also give tips for buying essential
new climbing gear, like beginner
shoes, harnesses and ropes.
HOW TO BROADEN
YOUR ROCK CLIMBING
KNOWLEDGE
and features candid face-to-face
interviews and story-telling with
climbers from around the world.
Other great audio media includes
Chalk Talk, TrainingBeta, and the
Power Company Climbing podcast.
29 KNOW THE DIFFER-
ENCE BETWEEN
ONSIGHTING,
FLASHING, AND REDPOINT-
ING A ROUTE. Each of these
terms refer to climbing a route clean
(no falls, takes, or pulling on gear).
Onsight a route means youve sent it
first try with no previous information
MEND HIRING A GUIDE FOR
YOUR INITIAL TRANSITION
TO REAL ROCK. Professional rock
guides in the USA are certified by
the American Mountain Guide As-
sociation (AMGA).
34 Climbers pride them-
selves in the respect
they show for their crags.
LEARN ABOUT THE CODE
OF ETHICS THAT CLIMBERS
ADHERE TO WHEN CLIMBING
OUTDOORS. A few principles
include leave no trace, wait your turn
before climbing, dont play loud mu-

24 BUY SUBSCRIP-
TIONS TO CLIMB-
ING MAGAZINES,
or if youre a traveling dirtbag, read
climbing magazines for free in
climber run coffee shops and gear
stores. The big three in the USA
are Climbing Magazine, Rock and
at all. Flashing means youve sent
it first try but either previewed the
route or received beta (information)
about it. Repointing means youve
sent the route after already trying at
least once.
sic or be obnoxious, help with trail
maintenance, brush your tick marks,
avoid spraying beta, and respect
route or area closures.

MORE ROCK
35 ATTEND CLIMBING
FESTIVALS to immerse
yourself in all aspects
Ice, and Alpinist, and the Canadian of climbing culture. At festivals you
per body. Some basic opposition exercises include push- hand balms on the market. They really do help, trust us.
Gripped Magazine is also awesome. CLIMBING TIPS FOR often have a chance to participate in
ups, dips and shoulder presses. If you are prone to elbow
GET A BEGINNERS crag clean-ups, attend sweet climb-

19
USE MASSAGE TOOLS like a theracane
25
pain, wrist opposition exercises are a great idea too.
FOLLOW CLIMB- ing workshops, listen to slideshows,
BETTER GRIP
30
or foam roller to work out knots and tight

15 WORK ON STRENGTHENING YOUR
CORE. A six-pack may look good, but is not
especially useful for your climbing. Focus on
your lower front and back core that will help you keep
your feet on the wall in steep terrain, and the small mus-
cles that help with body tension.
spots. You might have sore muscles you
ERS THAT GET Many climbing gyms meet climbing gear vendors, get free
Find out how to increase YOU PSYCHED ON have adult teams, recrea- stuff, and make awesome connec-
didnt even know you had, and your shoulders, lats, and your finger strength for a
forearms will surely feel worked after a good session. If better climb. INSTAGRAM. As the clich goes, tional teams, or womens tions. A few great festivals to get you
pictures are worth a thousand groups. Joining a team is a great way started are the Red Rock Rendez-
a massage therapist is out of your budget, do what you
can to work the knots out yourself. PAGES words, and theres nothing like some to MEET PEOPLE IN THE COM- vous, the Smith Rock Spring Thing,
sick climbing photos to get you MUNITY and expand your skills on the Lander International Climbing
36-37
20
inspired. The climbing community is a regular basis. Festival, the Red River Gorge Rockto-
SIGN UP FOR A YOGA-FOR-CLIMB-

16
very active on Instagram and overall berfest, and the Womens Climbing
MUSCLES DEVELOP AND ERS CLASS. If you cant find a climbing
STRENGTHEN QUICKER THAN
TENDONS DO. If you are discovering rock
specific yoga class in your area, any yoga will
still be beneficial. You can also check out YouTube chan-
super positive as well.
31 ATTEND A LOCAL
COMPETITION AS A
Festival in Bishop.

climbing as an adult, the tendons in your fingers are

likely not very strong. Pace yourself on difficult problems
and small crimp holds so as not to injure your fingers.
nels like Fightmaster Yoga and Climber Yoga. Yoga can
increase your flexibility, core strength, and your mental
focus, all things that can go a long way on the rock wall.
26 WATCH CLIMBING
MOVIES. The Reel Rock
film festival is a great
COMPETITOR OR A
SPECTATOR. Most competitions
have a beginner or recreational
Finger injuries are common in climbers and can set you PACE YOURSELF place to start. Currently in their division, and expose you to a ton of
eleventh year, a new Reel Rock short new problems with a bunch of really
back significantly. TIPS FOR CHOOSING ROCK ON DIFFICULT film collection travels the world an- psyched people. Attending competi-
CLIMBING GEAR
17
nually inspiring climbers and stoking tions as a spectator is also a great
ENGAGE YOUR SHOULDERS when you
are climbing. By drawing your shoulders back PROBLEMS AND the stoke. way to see some of the best climbers

21
As soon as you are hooked by climbing, in the community give it their all.

27
and squeezing your scapula together, you
CONSIDER BUYING YOUR OWN SHOES LEARN YOUR
force your shoulders into a healthy position for climbing SMALL CRIMP
and can reduce your chance of injury. Shoulder stability
exercises are another great way to keep your shoulders
functional and strong.
AND CHALK. Climbing shoes are critical for
learning how to use your feet while climbing. These are
the only two items you actually NEED to go bouldering, HOLDS SO AS
CLIMBING JARGON.
Ever walk into the
climbing gym and feel like youre
32 If you are making
progress with your
technique but would like
and they will give you independence for any other kind listening to another language as to excel even more, CONSIDER
of climbing you wish to try as well. NOT TO INJURE climbers trade beta on their latest ADOPTING A BEGINNER

18
Split tips. Flappers. Cracked skin around your
nails. Trad gobies. Whether you are climb-
projects? Learn the terms and join TRAINING PLAN. Ask at your
ing in the gym, jamming cracks, or bearing
down on razor sharp edges outside, your hands will get
trashed. DONT LET BAD SKIN BE YOUR LIMIT-
22 ASK AT YOUR LOCAL CLIMBING GYM
ABOUT SHOE DEMO NIGHTS. Product
representatives for climbing shoe brands like
YOUR FINGERS. the conversation. local gym to see if they offer training
programs, or check out Training Beta
for a ton of great online resources
Evolv, Five Ten, La Sportiva, and Scarpa often offer shoe KIM MCGRENERE and plans.
ING FACTOR and instead try one of the many climber
14 15

A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
TYPES OF CLIMBING
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO
Rock climbing is a sport with a wide range of sub-disciplines.
Feeling over your head trying to get everything straight?
There is a lot to unpack here, so weve broken down the
types of climbing to help your confusion melt away.
You will now be able to confidently respond to the bar-
rage of questions from your curious co-worker and worried
mother: Do you free climb? How do you get up there? Are
there hooks on the wall? Arent you afraid of falling? Whats
the point of aid climbing?
16
the entirety of their climbing world.
This guide to climbing types offers an overview the differ-
ent styles to make the muddiness a little clearer. Remem-
ber though that there are overlaps and nuances among
what weve described if theres a style of interest to you,
there are an abundance of resources out there to help you
learn more about it. Also, remember that rock climbing is
a dangerous sport and our overview is not a substitute for
appropriate training.
GYM CLIMBING a belay device. Because the rope is
through a top anchor, fall distances
tend to be small.
The popularity of gym climbing has
been growing at an exponential
LEAD CLIMBING
rate over the past 20 years. Most
In lead climbing, the rope and
folks nowadays are introduced to
the climber begin together at the
climbing through gyms. For many of
base of the route. The climber ties
people, the climbing gym represents
into their rope, colloquially referred
to as the sharp end, and then
ascends the wall clipping their rope
BOULDERING
into quick draws as they go while
Bouldering is a great way to get
their belayer feeds them slack from
into rock climbing indoors all you
below.
need are climbing shoes and chalk.
Lead climbers must climb some
Boulderers climb pre-set routes
distance above a quickdraw to reach
known as problems that ascend
the next, which leads to falls that
short walls. A problem is usually
can be quite large. However, slack in
completed once the climber has
the system and dynamic elongation
matched hands in a controlled man-
of climbing ropes, coupled with an
ner on a designated finish hold. The
padded floors in climbing gyms are
adept belayer, soften lead climb-
ing falls and reduce impact to the
designed to absorb the impact of
climber.
falls effectively once climbers learn
how to fall safely
COMPETITION STYLE
With the rise in popularity of
TOP ROPE CLIMBING
indoor climbing gyms and climbing
Top rope climbing is perfect for
building endurance, learning rope
competitions has led to a growth TOP ROPE CLIMBING IS PERFECT
skills, and honing techniques before
in competition-style routes and FOR BUILDING ENDURANCE,
problems. In bouldering and lead
progressing to potentially riskier
climbing, competition style lends
LEARNING ROPE SKILLS, AND HONING
disciplines of the sport.
itself to dynamic, gymnastic moves TECHNIQUES BEFORE PROGRESSING
For top roping, the rope that you
tie into is already running through
and sequences that require strong TO POTENTIALLY RISKIER
puzzle-solving skills. Problems are
an anchor at the top of the route.
often set using volumes (large, an- DISCIPLINES OF THE SPORT.
As the climber moves up the wall,
gular, removable features) that force KIM MCGRENERE
the belayer takes up slack through
17

SPORT ROUTES ARE ESTABLISHED AND
BOLTED BY ROUTE DEVELOPERS, WHO
ADD PERMANENT BOLTS INTO THE ROCK
FACE ON WHICH CLIMBERS CAN HANG
THEIR QUICKDRAWS TO
CLIP INTO THEIR ROPE.
KIM GRENERE
18
competitors to maneuver over variable terrain. ommended. A 5.7 is an example of
The third branch of competition climbing is speed climbing. A single a less difficult route, compared with
speed climbing route is set and regulated to be identical at all facilities that a 5.13a which is a much more chal-
offer it, allowing athletes across the globe to train on an even playing field. lenging. Its important to remember
Bouldering, lead, and speed competition climbing are regulated by the Inter- that climbing grades are highly
national Federation of Sport Climbing. subjective.
TRADITIONAL CLIMBING
FREE CLIMBING Traditional, or trad, climbing
was the primary form of free climb-
Free climbing refers to any type of moves executed under the climbers own
ing before the rise in popularity of
power to gain upward progress. Free climbers often use ropes and gear to
bolted sport routes. Trad climbing
top rope or lead climb but these are not explicitly required.
routes are established in natural
weaknesses in the rock and protect-
OUTDOOR BOULDERING
ed by traditional gear (ie. cams and
Bouldering is a branch of climbing that is centered purely on movement.
nuts). Trad climbers place their gear
While only climbing shoes and chalk are necessary, most people use crash
on lead and then clean their gear off
pads to absorb the impact of a fall. Boulderers mitigate the risk of climbing
without a rope by placing their crash pads in expected fall zones, and using the rock when they are finished. You
may find bolted anchors or the occa-
spotters. When climbing outdoors, sending a boulder problem typically
requires that the climber mount the boulder, known as topping out, after sional bolt-protected-crux on a trad
following the specified path. route, but bolts are typically rare.
Often trad climbs follow vertical
Bouldering lends itself to powerful climbing by nature of the shorter
problems and condensed set of moves. Boulderers tend to execute more crack systems in the rock. In these
difficult moves than climbers in other disciplines. In North America, the dif- situations, trad climbers use crack
techniques like hand and foot jams
ficulty of boulder problems are rated on a V-scale, where V0 is the easiest, and
to climb the crack.
V16 is the confirmed hardest in the world.
Trad climbing routes are graded
SPORT CLIMBING using the YDS.
Sport climbing is the closest outdoor relative to roped climbing in a gym.
Sport climbing routes can be extremely variable, from low-angle slabs, to MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING
Multi-pitch routes ascend tall
technical vertical lines, to overhanging gymnastic-type routes. Sport routes
walls beyond the reach of a single
are established and bolted by route developers, who add permanent bolts
into the rock face on which climbers can hang their quickdraws to clip their rope length. Multipitch routes can
rope into. be bolted or can require traditional
gear. Its crucial to always read route
In North America, sport climbing routes are graded using the Yosemite
topos to ensure you have located
Decimal System (YDS) for 5th class rock climbing where technical gear is rec-
OFTEN TRAD CLIMBS FOLLOW
VERTICAL CRACK SYSTEMS IN
THE ROCK. IN THESE SITUA-
TIONS, TRAD CLIMBERS USE
CRACK TECHNIQUES LIKE HAND
AND FOOT JAMS TO CLIMB THE
CRACK.
KIM MCGRENERE
the correct route, have brought the
appropriate gear, and have a descent
plan. Multi-pitch routes can often be
rappelled, but sometimes climbers
can hike down off the route.
There are many ways to arrange
partnership on multi-pitch routes,
for example climbing partners might
swap leads between belay stations.
One partner will lead the first pitch
being belayed from the bottom,
and then upon reaching the anchor
they will top-belay their partner up
to meet them. The person who just
followed the route will then begin
leading the second pitch, and the
Ice routes can sometimes
swapping pattern continues.
present a mixture of ice and rock. In
Multi-pitch routes are also
graded using the YDS.
this case, climbers use dry tooling SAFETY
techniques, where they place their
ice tools into cracks and crevices in
FIRST
ICE CLIMBING Find out how to stay safe
the rock in order to climb up. while on the mountain.
Ice climbing allows adventure
seekers to scale up frozen waterfalls.
FREE SOLOING
PAGES
On vertical routes, climbers sink
ice tools and crampons into the
Free soloing is the highest 33 - 35
consequence form of rock climbing.
ice to ascend. Natural features and
Free solo climbers climb routes that
ice screws are used for protection
are usually free climbed with equip-
on lead, but lead climbing on ice
can be potentially more danger-
ment, but without the use of ropes.
In this way, free soloers are alone on
ous than on rock. Although some
the wall, only requiring their shoes
of the movement principles of rock
climbing carry over, ice climbing is
and chalk.
a very different beast. Ice climbs are
A very small proportion of elite
climbers engage in free solo climb-
graded using the WI scale based on
ing. Falls when free soloing are dead-
the steepness of the ice and range in
ly, with only the odd exception.
difficulty from WI1 to WI6.
19

CLIMBING A BIG WALL IS USU-
ALLY A MULTI-DAY EVENT, WHICH
CLIMBERS OFTEN REFER TO AS A
LITTLE BIT OF CLIMBING WITH A
LOT OF WORKHORSING.
KIM MCGRENERE
18
AID CLIMBING
Aid climbers ascend a rock face
by pulling on pieces of fixed or
placed gear and stepping in aiders
(ladders made of webbing loops) to
assist them. Aid climbing was the
original technique used to climb big
vertical walls in the early 1900s, and
remains popular for big wall climb-
ing in places like Yosemite, Califor-
nia. Tools used in clean aid climbing
include hooks, nuts and modern
traditional gear like cams. Many rel-
ics from early fixed aid climbing days
can still be found on classic routes in
the form of pinscars or actual pitons
that still remain.
BIG WALL CLIMBING
You may have overheard folks
wondering what is the point of aid
climbing? but its actually an ex-
tremely handy and necessary skill to
ascend certain steep walls. Many big
wall routes have very difficult moves,
like the Nose on El Cap that goes
free at 5.14- and has been climbed
by few talented rock climbers. Aid
climbing through the difficult sec-
tions makes a route like the Nose
available to almost anyone.
Climbing a big wall is usually
a multi-day event, which climb-
ers often refer to as a little bit of
climbing with a lot of workhorsing.
Logistics for big wall climbing are
complicated; climbers must bring
a static line and haul bags to carry
up their food, water and supplies, as
well as portaledges for sleeping and
overnight gear.
There has been a rise in popular-
ity in climbers pushing the limits
of free and aid big wall climbing.
One way climbers are breaking new
ground is in speed climbing: the
current speed record on the nose
is 2:23:46. Climbers are also at the
leading edge of difficult big wall
climbing. In 2015, Tommy Caldwell
and Kevin Jorgenson did the first
free ascent of the Dawn Wall, the
hardest big wall route in the world
(which recently saw a second ascent
by Adam Ondra, and in 2012 Alex
Honnold free soloed El Capitan,
Half Dome, and Mount Watkins in a
single 24 hour push.
ALPINE CLIMBING
Alpine climbing is one of the
most adventurous and dangerous
branches of climbing and is a sport
for those who dream of climbing
mountains. Alpine climbers often
need to apply a range of techniques
from other sub-disciplines of climb-
ing like face and crack climbing,
placing traditional gear, and ice
climbing. Multipitching and aid
climbing techniques can also prove
to be useful.
In addition to the technical skills,
alpine climbers excel at suffering
learning to cope with extreme
conditions and minimal resources.
Understanding and reading weather
and snow patterns is very important.
Perhaps more so than any other
group of climbers, alpine climbers
care about having the lightest gear
possible as they must carry in every-
thing they need.
Both free and aid skills are
useful in alpine scenarios, and it is
important to have all these tools in
your repertoire before heading to
the mountains.
21
 LEG LOOPS notice a difference, so weight really
comes down to personal preference.
Its important to listen to your body
and consider whether you want
fixed or adjustable harness leg MENS VS WOMENS
CLIMBING

HARNESSES 101
loops. Many people prefer fixed leg
loops as they tend to be less bulky,
lighter, and quick to take on and
off. The biggest issue with fixed leg
loops is that they are not suitable
for every body type. If your legs
dont fit comfortably in fixed loops,
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO then adjustable is the way to go!
Adjustable loops also enable you to
comfortably layer your clothes in a
variety of weather conditions.
So you do any kind of roped up climbing, you spend a lot of time standing,
GEAR LOOPS
sitting, hanging and falling in your harness. Finding the best climbing harness Gear loops are present on a harness
There are substantial differenc-
es between mens and womens
harnesses. The distance between the
leg loops and the waist belt, known
as the rise, is longer on a womans
harness. This is because women
generally have smaller waists and
wider hips, and tend to wear their
harnesses above their hips. Women
have a lower center of gravity and
the higher waist belt makes hanging
in a harness more comfortable. In
the end the difference between
mens and womens harnesses has to

you can get is essential for safety, comfort and performance. to make your life more convenient!
Having four gear loops is essential
do with body type try on both to
see which one fits your body best.
when climbing outside to ensure
theres enough real estate to hang
lots of equipment. Look for larger HARNESS CARE
Think about the kind of climbing you love Gym climbing? Sport climbing? climbers need gear loops for quickdraws and enjoy a lightweight model. Trad Your harness is a critical piece of
and sturdier loops if you know you
Trad climbing? Ice climbing? climbers benefit from bigger gear loops and a padded, comfy fit. Ice climbers safety equipment. Because you
have more gear.
need ice clipper slots and adjustable leg loops. depend on it with no back up, it is
For just a waistband and some leg loops, there is a huge amount of variation imperative that you care for your
CLICK THIS LINK FOR OUR REVIEWS
in climbing harnesses on the market. Gear producers have innovated modern
SIZING AND COMFORT WEIGHT harness appropriately. Learn the spe- AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT CLIMB-
harnesses to be light, comfortable, efficient, and safe. We are here to break Climbers generally want to feel cific care instructions of the model ING HARNESSES:
down the differences between some of this years top all-arounders and help A well fit harness is critical to ensuring the harness can perform safely. The
lightweight so the draw of a lighter you buy, and follow recommenda- https://www.theadventurejunkies.
you to pick the best climbing harness to meets your needs. waist belt is the most important component and should be sized such that
harness is self-explanatory. Some tions for when to replace it. There is com/best-climbing-harness/
it wont slide over the hips if the climber flips upside down. Beyond safety,
people swear by light harnesses to no back-up for a failed harness.
a comfortable harness will improve your quality of life immensely when
help them send their latest project,
PURPOSE climbing. Its worth considering the benefits and trade-offs of extra padding
or when keeping it light and fast on
Climbing sub-disciplines can help narrow in on the best climbing harness. and breathability.
alpine style routes. Others hardly
Gym climbers can choose whatever is comfortable and convenient. Sport

22 23
 lining will remain comparable to
how it felt right out of the box. While Velcro shoes are easier to take on
some people prefer wearing their and off. Some tighten just as well as
shoes with a light sock, climbing their lace-up counterparts. Velcro

CLIMBING
shoes are designed for bare feet. shoes are great for bouldering, gym

SHOES 101
or sport climbing because youll be
switching from your regular shoes to
MENS VS WOMENS your climbing shoes often.
Several climbing shoe models
have a sister shoe which has been Laces-up shoes have several advan-
tweaked to better suit some wom- tages they are more adjustable,
ens feet. Besides being your source this allows you to get the tightness
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO for pink or purple climbing footwear, exactly how you like it. An obvious
these shoes tend to be lower volume downside is they are slower to put
and often slightly narrower. Learn on and take off.
about the shape of your own foot
So youve caught the rock climbing bug and its time to buy your first pair of climbing shoes. many dudes with low volume feet
CLICK THE LINK BELOW FOR OUR
REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT
New gear is exciting but it can be overwhelming knowing where to start. Climbing is a sport swear by these models too.
CLIMBING SHOES:
https://www.theadventurejunkies.
with many sub-disciplines, reflected by the many different climbing shoes on the market. So, com/best-beginner-climbing-shoes/
how do you know what are the best beginner climbing shoes for you? SHOE SHAPE
Every shoe weve suggested in this
article is flat lasted. Flat last shoes
are comfortable and easy to wear all
FIT keep your feet immobilized in your shoes. A lack of wiggle room can increase
precision and power needed for finessing those tiny foot edges or pulling
day with little suffering. When youre
The most important consideration when choosing the best beginner first starting, its a good idea to rule
hard with that heel hook. Be careful not to downsize too much though your out the powerful shape of a hooked
climbing shoe is fit. Every persons foot shape is different. The shape, width,
climbing shoes should never be so painful that you dread your evening downturned shoe. Technically
volume and heel depth of your foot can all affect how comfortable you are
session at the local gym for fear of putting them on. aggressive, high-performance shoes
in your new kicks. The only way to find the perfect shoe is to try on as many
models as possible, so hit the shops and be patient! Your shoe should fit snug will come in useful with more expe-
rience, when youre ready to expand
and comfortable, with no dead spaces, hot spots, or painful areas. Start with STRETCH you climbing style.
something that feels great so you can truly love it. To complicate things, some climbing shoes stretch, but others dont. Once
youve downsized from your street shoes to a comfortable, snug fit, you need
DOWNSIZING to know whether your shoes will bag out or not. The length of your climbing VELCRO VS LACE-UP
Youve probably heard other climbers discussing downsizing from their street shoe from heel to toe will never change. But, a shoe with an unlined leather There are two main ways to tighten
shoe size and complaining of cramped and bent toes. Downsizing helps to upper can stretch up to 2 sizes after being broken in. A shoe with a synthetic climbing shoes velcro or laces.

24 25
 WEIGHT
Weight is arguably more important
than the diameter and should be
considered alongside it.
CLIMBING
ROPES 101
The linear weight of a climbing rope
is measured in grams per meter.
Imagine leading a 20 meter (~65
feet) pitch the rope weight that
youre hauling adds up fast. Climbers
who are looking to send hard routes
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO often seek the lightest weight rope
they can get away with. For top-rop-
ers and gym climbers, weight is not
an issue.
Your climbing rope is your lifeline. With the help of your belayer, you rely
100% on your rope to keep you safe and off the ground. When you have the LENGTH
Most ropes come in many different
best climbing rope to suit your needs, it puts your mind at ease so you focus lengths. A 60 meter rope is often the
standard for a single rope, but bene-
on whats important: your climbing for the day. fits come with choosing something
longer.
WHY DYNAMIC? THICK ROPES (9.9MM AND UP)
A longer rope enables you to climb
You may have heard of both dynamic and static ropes. Climbers use dynamic Thick are durable and great for beginners or climbers who prefer to top-rope.
They are also great as workhorse ropes for projecting, which often involves further in a single push. Length
ropes because they stretch and elongate to absorb the impact of a fall. Static
extensive hang-dogging and repeated falling. thus increases the number of routes
ropes are useful for hauling gear on big walls, but not for actual climbing.
available to you. The ends of a
MEDIUM ROPES (9.5 9.8MM)
longer rope can also be cut more
DIAMETER Medium ropes are durable enough to handle projecting but light and supple
times before it becomes too short to
Diameter is a great way to begin to isolate the best climbing rope to meet climb on, thus potentially adding to
enough for comfortably sending sport and trad routes.
your needs. Single climbing ropes can generally be sorted into three size its lifespan.
classes. THIN ROPES (9.4MM AND DOWN)
Two trade-offs to longer ropes are
Thin ropes will wear faster but are ideal for redpointing or lightweight, fast
cost and weight. They are much
alpine sends.
more expensive and youll notice the
26
extra weight on your approach to
and from the crag.
come with a middle marker, but in
the end there is no substitute for
good rope management.
DRY-TREATMENT
The ropes weve compared in this
review are dry-treated. Dry-treat-
ROPE CARE
Just like your climbing harness,
ment protects ropes from water
there is no back-up to your climbing
absorption, makes them more
rope. It is absolutely critical to check
abrasion-resistant, and can increase
your rope for wear and care for it
their durability and lifespan.
appropriately. Rope companies
advertise the expected lifespan of
Each company has a different stan-
the ropes they manufacture. When
dard for how they treat their ropes.
your rope reaches the end of its life,
Certain companies, like Mammut
retire it. The alternative is not worth
and Sterling, allow you to choose
whether your rope is dry-treated.
the risk. Besides, think of all the fun
crafts you can take on with your old
Some of the ropes weve covered are
only offered with a dry-treatment.
rope bits.
Although beneficial, dry-treatments
increase the cost of a rope signifi-
CLICK THE LINK BELOW FOR OUR
REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT
cantly. CLIMBING ROPES:
https://www.theadventurejunkies.
If you are using your rope in a gym com/best-climbing-rope/
or in fair weather conditions, a
dry-treated rope is an unnecessary
expense.
BICOLOR
Bicolor is a convenience factor, and
one that comes with a price tag. Its
perfectly fine to climb with a single
color rope as long as you are safe
and meticulous: know the length of
your rope and always tie knots in the
end while rappelling. Many ropes
27
 ADJUSTABILITY
Climbers traverse lots of variable
terrain and climates, and sometimes
CLIMBING

HELMETS 101
wear woolen beanies of different
thickness under their helmets. If
youre in an environment that may
see you adjusting your helmet
multiple times in a day, then it will
make a great deal of difference to
have one that is easy and intuitive to
AUTHOR: Derek Cheng INFO fine-tune.
CLICK THE LINK BELOW FOR OUR
REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT
CLIMBING HELMETS:
Love climbing rock faces outdoors, but worried about protecting your most important asset your https://www.theadventurejunkies.
head? Since time immemorial, climbers heads have come under threat from rockfall, or by being struck com/best-climbing-helmets/

during an awkward sideways or upside down fall. There are a myriad of helmet options, but which one
is the best climbing helmet for the type of climbing that interests you?

PROTECTION
Rocks are solid, so helmets need to be made of suitable material to protect
you from them. All helmets meet an industry standard of protection, with
greater protection from overhead impact than from the side. Most helmets
are usually made of a hard plastic shell, or a thick layer of lightweight foam
with a polycarbonate shell. A plastic shell is considered to be more durable
and longer lasting, but what it offers in safety, it compromises on weight and
comfort.
WEIGHT AND COMFORT
Some like them thin and light. Some like them thick and heavy. Whats right
for you will depend on your goals. If youre developing new climbs in new
areas, then a heavier, plastic-shell helmet will offer more protection from
rockfall. A lighter helmet may be better if youre climbing longer routes that
are relatively well traveled, as rockfall is less likely. If youre new to climbing, a
bit of weight difference isnt going to matter all that much.
VENTILATION
Sometimes climbers will want to wear a helmet all day. Other times simply for
an hour or two. Melting under a helmet with little ventilation in a hot, humid
climbing area is no fun for anyone. But neither is alpine climbing in a frigid
stratosphere in a helmet with more ventilation gaps than an open window.
Pick the right amount of ventilation for the type of climb youre most psyched
on.

28 29
HOW TO
TRAIN FOR
ROCK CLIMBING
AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere INFO
Have you tried all the tips you can think of to become a better climber and are ready to add training to your routine? Figur-
ing out how to train for rock climbing can be daunting. Knowledge on climbing has been expanding over the past fifteen
years and we are now in an exciting era of training for this sport. There is no one best way to train. You need to know your
body, identify strengths and weaknesses, and be honest with yourself about goals and motivations. As an added complica-
tion, many experts differ on their opinions of how to train. To help you out, we at The Adventure Junkies have curated the
most well-accepted training methods to get you on your way.
MAKE A TRAINING
SCHEDULE
A common mistake that climbers
make is over-training. Over-training
can lead to injuries, particularly in
the fingers, elbows, and shoulders.
One way to prevent over-training is
to design your schedule around an
anticipated peak, such as time off in
the summer or an upcoming climb-
ing trip. Using a linear periodization
is a great way to develop a training
schedule, especially for beginners.
30
Its important to lay out your
goals to plan how best to meet
them. Having concrete goals will
help you to choose the length of
cycles in your training plan. Identify-
ing weaknesses can be extremely
beneficial as well as that will help to
target your training.
There are many great trainers
and resources online that can help
you to train effectively. Training
Beta provides training programs for
all sorts of climbers, and they are
dedicated to assembling knowledge
from experts in the field.
Finally, ensure that your training
schedule incorporates lots of time
for rest and recovery.
FOUR
FUNDAMENTAL TIPS
TIP #1: WARM-UP
To prepare your body for any
training workout you must first
warm-up. Start with 10-15 minutes
of light cardio to get the blood
pumping. Follow your cardio work-
out with dynamic stretching. Finish
your warm-up with at least 60 moves
of easy climbing. If you are training
at home or dont have access to
climbing terrain, you can modify the
climbing-specific warm-up.
TIP #2: WORK ON STABILITY AND
MOBILITY
Taking care of your body is a
crucial component of climbing and
training for climbing. It is impor-
tant to ensure that your opposi-
tion muscles receive attention to
remain strong and prevent muscle
imbalances. Climbers can improve
muscular balance by strengthening
their shoulders and scapular region,
leading to less strain on connective
tissues and reduced instances of
injury.
TIP #3: CLIMB OFTEN
There is no substitute for time
spent climbing. It is well-accepted
that one of the best ways for new
climbers to improve is to spend
more time climbing. While training
will definitely provide gains in
strength, power, and power endur-
ance, building baseline endurance
in conjunction with good technique
will make you a better climber.
Besides, climbing is what you fell in
love with, so dont lose sight of that
by spiralling too far into the world of
training.
TIP #4: TRAINING PERIODIZATION
One of the keys to training is to
shock the body by transitioning to
new exercises, or phases of exercises,
after a period of time. To eliminate
the plateau that a body experiences
after four to six weeks, climbers
often apply periodization to their
training.
PHASES OF
TRAINING
There are four main physical training
phases: Endurance, strength, power
and power endurance.
A great way to put together your
training schedule is through periodi-
zation. While we recommend a linear
periodization program for begin-
ners, non-sequential periodization
training that may be more effective
for intermediate and advanced
climbers.
1. ENDURANCE
When you first start climbing you
may find it hard to have a long ses-
sion because of a burning sensation,
known as pump, in your forearms.
By building up your base endurance,
you will improve your fitness and
establish the foundation on which to
build the next phases of your train-
ing. Endurance training is aerobic,
as your muscles are using oxygen
to complete repeated moves. There
are lots of tips on how to train for
endurance, but usually they involve
a high volume of moves at relatively
low difficulty.
Your endurance training phase
is a great time to focus on practicing
climbing technique!
2. STRENGTH
There are multiple ways to train
muscular strength for climbing. Re-
cently, the training community has
recognized the advantage of sup-
plementing your strength workouts
with functional weight training.
Hangboarding is another
popular isometric training technique
that is often used to target finger
strength. By hangboarding you
are training your body to recruit
muscles fibers more effectively while
strengthening critical connective tis- BY BUILDING UP YOUR BASE ENDUR-
sue. There are two general strategies
that climbers use for hangboarding: ANCE, YOU WILL IMPROVE YOUR FITNESS
repeater style exercises and max
hangs.
AND ESTABLISH THE FOUNDATION ON
WHICH TO BUILD THE NEXT PHASES OF
REPEATER STYLE
A repeater style hangboard YOUR TRAINING.
workout aims to mimic the time
KIM MCGRENERE
you spend on a hold while climbing
31

a route. Typically hangs are 5-7
seconds long with 3 second rests
in between. A variety of hold types
can be used in these workouts. This
method was popularized by the
Anderson Brothers.
MAX HANGS
For max hangs, you determine
the maximum amount of weight
you can add to your body to hang
for 10 seconds on a large (18-20mm)
edge. Hangs are done with hands in
a half-crimp or open hand position,
with long rests between only 3-4
reps. The benefits of max hangs are
supported by research done by Eva
Lopez, and one great tool for this
type of training is the Transgression
Board.
32
3. POWER
Power can be defined as force
over time. Strength is required to
produce a force, and when this
happens quickly you have power.
In climbing, the term power is usu-
ally used to describe moves that
are dynamic in nature, common in
bouldering or climbing in steep ter-
rain. There are many methods that
climbers use to build power.
LIMITED BOULDERING
Limit bouldering involves at-
tempting to do moves at or above
your physical limits. Usually between
one and three moves are attempted
in sequence, and any set of moves
may repeated multiple times.
SYSTEMS WALL
Some tools have been developed
to help climbers execute super hard
moves on steep terrain. A systems
wall is a board with holds set in
mirror image of each other on either
side of the center line, allowing the
climber to recreate exact positions
and movements for both sides of the
body. The ideal angle of a systems
wall is between 20 and 35 degrees,
but many boards are adjustable so
that the climber can choose their
desired angle of steepness.
MOON BOARD
The moon board is 40 degree
overhung with a defined set of holds
that allow climbers to set boulder
problems and then share them with
the greater climbing community
online. In order for a moon board
to be beneficial, you should first be
climbing at a minimum V5/6 level. KIM MCGRENERE
CAMPUSING
Another strategy climbers often
use to build power is campusing.
Many climbing gyms have campus
boards available for their clientele. without resting. Routes on steep
Campusing is an advanced tech-
nique that can be extremely stressful
on the body, but it is very effective. 5. MENTAL TRAINING
4. STRENGTH ENDURANCE
Strength endurance training,
commonly called power endur-
ance, blends strength, power and
endurance together, enabling the
climber to execute many difficult
moves in a row despite feeling
pumped. Strength endurance trains
the anaerobic system, which kicks in
after the body has used up oxygen
to the muscles.
HOW TO
STAY SAFE
WHILE CLIMBING
AUTHOR: Derek Cheng INFO
4X4 It is known as an extreme sport, so knowing how to stay safe while climbing is essential.
One way to train for strength
endurance is using 4x4s. Choose Poor communication, distraction while getting ready, and biting off more than you can chew have all led to accidents that have given the sport a reputa-
four boulder problems near your tion for being on the edge. But if you know what youre doing and take appropriate safety measures, the risks in climbing can be substantially minimised,
flash level and climb them all back leaving you to enjoy a fun, challenging, inspirational sport with a great community and in the most breathtaking destinations. In this article, The Adventure
to back without rest. Wait for at least Junkies will walk you through some simple steps on how to stay safe while climbing.
five minutes and then repeat the
boulder problems three more times
for a total of four rounds. For best
results, choose boulder problems in
SAFETY CHECKS had been distracted while prepar-
ing, and had failed to complete her
through both the leg loop and the
waist loop. Check the harness
loops double backed? Is the belay
device usually an ATC or a grigri
Before you set off on a climb, a
steep terrain. safety knot. instructions to ensure you are doing threading the rope in the correct
climber and belayer should always
this correctly, and check the knot is way (check instructions to be sure),
always do a round of safety checks.
INTERVAL TRAINING SAFETY KNOT properly tied before casting off. and attached to the harness with a
Even the most experienced climbers
Interval training is another ef- Properly tying into the rope is locking carabiner? Is the carabiner
have suffered injuries that could
fective training method for strength vital. Climbers use different kinds HARNESSES AND BELAY locked?
have been prevented with a simple
endurance. On an overhanging wall, of knots, but the figure-8 with a DEVICE You should always check that
check. Lynn Hill, who famously freed
climb continuously for one minute stopper knot is the most common. Are the harnesses of the climb- everything is properly set up by tug-
The Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite
and then rest for one minute. Repeat The knot must pass through the er(s) and belayer sitting above the ging the rope, as if it were catching
Valley, once took a giant 70ft fall
the exercise with two minute inter- tie-in points on the harness, usually hips, tightened, with all appropriate a fall, and seeing if the belay device
from the top of a climb because she
vals, then three minute intervals, and
then work back down to one minute.
Repeat as desired.
CLIMB HARD ROUTES
A third method of working
strength endurance is by climbing
hard routes. Pick a route just below
your flash/onsight level and try to
climb it three times back to back
terrain are best.
Many climbers believe that
mental ability is nearly as important
as physical ability. Fear is a very real
emotion that climbers often experi-
ence and must learn to manage.
The Rock Warriors Way is a great
resource for any climber looking to
strengthen their head game. Climb-
ers must also learn the role of their
ego in success and failure, and how
to engage laser sharp focus when
trying to send.
33
catches the rope and keeps it from running freely.
ROPE AND PROTECTION
Make sure it is the right rope for this type of climb, and check the sheath
to make sure it is undamaged. Flake the rope at the bottom of the climb to
ensure there are no knots in it, which could get snagged in the belay device
at a critical, and potentially dangerous, moment. If there is a chance that the
rope is not long enough, put a knot in the end of it to keep the end from
unexpectedly running through the belay device, dropping the climber in the
process.
Finally, check that the lead climber has everything they need for the
route. If its a sport climb, ensure they have enough quickdraws (usually three
more than the number of bolts, including two for the anchor, and one extra,
just in case). If it is a traditionally-protected route, ensure they have enough
protective gear, such as cams and wires.
HELMETS
Many climbers dont wear helmets on well-traveled routes, assuming
that the chances of rockfall are minimal. But how stupid would it be to own
a helmet, and sustain a serious head-injury while climbing because you had
chosen not to use it. Be safe wear a helmet, no matter what type of climbing
you are doing.
AVOID THE DROP ZONE
Have a look at the route, and ensure that the belayer is out of the line
of fire, or can easily step out of the line of fire. A lead climber can accidently
dislodge a loose rock at anytime, putting the belayer at risk of getting hit.
DESCENT
Many accidents have occurred while lowering climbers from the top of a
route. One common mistake is if the climber believes he will be lowered to
the ground, but the belayer believes the climber will rappel. If the climber is
taken off belay and leans back, expecting to be lowered, then they will fall to
the ground. Know and agree on how to descend. Repeat it before the climber
starts climbing, to ensure there is no miscommunication.
Sometimes climbers have to walk off the top of a route. If so, be sure to
know the descent route. Many climbers have spent cold, hungry and wet
nights pinned to a wall after getting lost on the descent and not being prop-
34
IF THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE
ROPE IS NOT LONG ENOUGH, PUT A
KNOT IN THE END OF IT TO KEEP THE
END FROM UNEXPECTEDLY
RUNNING THROUGH THE BELAY
DEVICE, DROPPING THE
CLIMBER IN THE PROCESS.
KIM MCGRENERE
erly prepared.
COMMUNICATE CLEARLY
Accidents can happen due to poor communication, such as the previous
example about confusion over how to descend. Miscommunication has also
lead to belayers taking their lead climbers off belay before they have finished
the climb.
Know your calls, and shout them clearly. Take means the belayer should
take in rope slack. Slack means to give more rope slack. Secure or off-be- so they know where you were headed if disaster struck and you didnt come
lay means the climber has anchored to the wall and can be taken off belay. If
there are other people around you, use names to avoid confusion that could
lead to a potentially fatal scenario.
For multi-pitch climbs, or routes where the climber will rappel down,
secure or off-belay are extremely important calls, as they indicate to the
belayer that they can remove the rope from the belay device. But the belayer
should be absolutely certain that the climber is secure before doing this. Mis-
heard calls can lead to the climber being taken off belay while they are still
climbing, essentially turning the climber into a free-soloist, carrying a rope,
and facing a potentially fatal accident if they fell.
Various calls are used, so make sure both the climber and belayer agree
to have consistent calls, and consistent responses. Have a plan for commu-
nicating if you cant hear each other. (Very windy routes, for example, can
sometimes make it impossible to hear). Three tugs on the rope is a common
way for a climber to tell a belayer that they are securely anchored and can be
taken off belay.
PAY ATTENTION
Distracted belaying can be a major cause of accidents. Resist the urge to
socialise, converse, text, or tie your shoelaces as you belay. Watch the climber
at all times. Dont give too much slack when the climber is above a ledge, or
too little slack that could lead to a hard catch, and slam the climber into the
rock-face.
Make sure you know about z-clipping and back-clipping, or climbing with
the rope behind your leg. If the lead climber does any of these things, the
belayer should tell them immediately.
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
Ignorance can be a recipe for disaster. Arming yourself with knowledge
is one of the best ways to assess and avoid risks, and gaining knowledge
through climbing courses, or through solid mentors and real experience, is a
great way to learn under safe supervision. Showing up at a crag with gear and
no idea what to do is asking for trouble.
KNOW YOUR CLIMB
You can minimize risk by knowing the climb and everything you need
for it. If its a long multi-pitch route, you may want to take a topo map of the
route that you can refer to as you climb higher. The approach and descent
information, especially for alpine climbs, should be well-known before setting
out. Check the forecast to make sure that the chances of getting caught in a
thunderstorm are slim.
Risks have been amplified by climbers getting on the wrong route, going
off-route while halfway up a climb, having the wrong gear or not enough
gear, or not knowing how to get down.
KNOW YOURSELF AND YOUR PARTNER
Overconfidence is a major cause of accidents. Know your own abilities
and dont overreach. If you want to climb El Cap in Yosemite, it is probably
best to try something smaller first to hone your multi-pitch skills and, de-
pending on how you want to climb, your aid and hauling skills.
A climbers partnership with a belayer is sacrosanct. Numerous accidents
have occurred from people climbing with strangers. If you dont know who
youre climbing with, dont be afraid to ask them to demonstrate to you that
they know what theyre doing. Give them a rope and a belay device, and ask
them to show you their belaying skills.
MORE TIPS TO MINIMIZE RISK
If you are climbing a big wall, ensure you have enough gear to descend if
you need to from anywhere on the climb. Basic first aid kits and headlamps
are also essentials for long climbs.
Carry a cellphone, or a satellite GPS distress-signal device such as a Spot
or InReach, in case of emergency. Also, tell someone where you are going,
home when you were supposed to.
35
 a few minutes before moving on
to the next set. When youre done,
EXTRA TIPS TO
stretch. INCREASE FINGER
Do this twice a week, taking STRENGTH
HOW TO INCREASE 48 hours to 72 hours in between

FINGER STRENGTH
workouts to ensure that your fingers 1. HANG PROPERLY
receive adequate rest. When dead-hanging, be sure to
keep your core tight, elbows slightly
UP THE DOSE bent, and shoulders engaged
After a few weeks, you will prob- squeeze your shoulder blades
AUTHOR: Derek Cheng INFO ably find that that last repetition together slightly. If you dont engage
isnt bringing you as close to failure your shoulders, you are resting your
as it did in the first week. If this is weight on your skeleton and putting
the case, its time to increase the undue stress on the soft tissues that
How to increase finger strength is one of the most common questions when it comes to improving your rock climbing. You weight, either by using a weight- connect the bones in the shoulder,
may have forearms like tree trunks, biceps like mountains, and colossal shoulders, but without fingers of steel, youll struggle vest, or simply by wearing a harness which could lead to tissue-related
to hold on to all manner of holds jugs, slopers, crimps, pockets. Stronger fingers also improves stamina and the ability to and clipping some heavy gear to injuries.
rest on smaller holds. But what is the best way to strengthen your digits, and not get injured? The Adventure Junkies is here it. You want to increase the weight
to walk you through finger and hand anatomy, and tell you how to increase finger strength. by about 5 per cent per month.
2. EASING THE WEIGHT
If youre just starting and find
Remember doing too much, too
that you cant hold a dead-hang for
soon, is a recipe for injury.
longer than three seconds, you can
KNOW YOUR FINGER ANATOMY GET STRONGER CLIMB MORE When your training becomes far
lessen the weight on your fingers
There are no muscles in your fingers, only tendons that attach to muscles Especially when starting out, climbing at your limit and pushing yourself more advanced, you can play with
by placing your feet on a box or
in the hand and forearms. This means that working on finger strength also steadily will, over time, build muscle and tendon strength. The best initial hanging off three fingers, or two, or
chair. Remember to keep your core
works on the muscles and ligaments in your hands, wrists and forearms. strategy is to simply climb a lot, and boulder in particular. Bouldering is the one. The principles remain the same
engaged and dont allow your body
The tendons in your fingers are connected to bone via a series of con- discipline of climbing that focuses on hard problems, meaning that you are look to be close to failure on the
to sag.
nective tissues, known as pulleys. A pulley injury is one of the most common often pushing the limits of your strength. last repetition.
forms of climbing injury, as the tendons and pulleys try to hold a great deal of As you progress, you might try harder problems and find that you simply 3. GO SLOWLY
force, particularly when crimping. There are a number of pulleys, but the one dont have the base strength to do certain moves. Then its time to look at CAMPUS TRAINING As Ive said many times, dont try
that is under strain the most while climbing, and is injured the most, is the A2 hangboard training. This is a form of training using and become the Hulk overnight. Ten-
pulley, located between the hand and the first knuckle. Hangboards have a number of different holds on which you can do pull-ups dynamic movement. It should dons and ligaments develop much
It is important to remember that tendons, ligaments and pulleys take lon- GET STRONGER HANGBOARD TRAINING or dead-hangs, all designed to make you stronger. There are several different
kinds of hangboards, and youll probably find a selection of them at your
only be considered if you are at an more slowly than muscles, so trying
ger than muscles to adapt and become stronger, so slow and steady progress advanced level if not, your body is to strengthen them too quickly is
Most forms of finger-strength training involve a hangboard of some kind.
is the key. Trying to do too much, too quickly, is a recipe for injury. local climbing gym. likely to get injured. It is designed to only going to lead to injury.
Different training programs exist, and you may find that some suit you develop raw power, using a campus
more than others. The general rule is to start slowly, and add more weight board a column of several horizon-
over a period of several weeks. There are different thoughts as to whether to tal wooden rungs on an overhang-
use a sloping open hand, half-crimp or full crimp position while training on ing wall.
small holds. The half- and full-crimp positions hyper-extend the fingers and There are many exercises, but
put added strain on the tendons and pulleys, risking injury. the most common is ladders. Using
Some say you should train all three, because you will likely be using all an open hand position, start by
three while climbing. Others say that training open hand will increase your hanging with both hands on the
finger strength enough for all three crimp positions, without unduly risking same piece of wood. Pull up and
injury. reach one of your hands to the next
wooden rung, and then leap frog
BUILD ISOMETRIC STRENGTH your other hand to the rung above
Isometric strength is the kind that you build by holding static positions. it. Move up the board and then back
Fingers tend to stay in the same place once you have gripped a hold, so down in one set, and then rest for a
finger-training tends to focus on holding dead-hangs for several seconds. few minutes. Do three sets.
An important step in injury prevention is to ensure that you warm up As you get stronger, you can
properly do some push-ups, jumping-jacks, and pull-ups on the large holds. skip two, three, or even more rungs
If youre in a climbing gym, do some gentle bouldering. in a single movement, and do as
When youre ready to begin, remember that it is important to be near many as 10 sets. But if you feel any
maximum effort to build strength. Most training programs advocate doing joint, tendon or finger pain during
several dead-hang sets with an open-hand position on a variety of small campusing, you should stop imme-
holds crimps, pockets, slopers. diately. Like isometric training, you
Choose a circuit of about 10 holds, and start on the smallest one. Dead- should campus-train no more than
hang for five to 10 seconds, and then rest for a similar amount of time. (Some two times a week, and only after
say hang for seven seconds, rest for three, while others say hang for 10 a thorough warm-up. Finish with
seconds, then rest for 30). Repeat, on the same hold, five or six times. Youre stretching.
doing the right amount if you are close to failure on the last repetition.
After your first set, take a break of a few minutes before starting the next
set on a different hold. Cycle through all the holds in your circuit, resting for

36 37
THANKS
FOR READING

We would like to thank you again for taking the time to check out the
Climbing Quick Starter Guide! We hope youve found some value in it and
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