JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC

AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations

Away from the eastern seaboard lies a treasure trove of superb

beaches, mind-blowing natural features, authentic outback
experiences, world-class wines and gourmet fare, ancient
Aboriginal cultures, rare and precious fauna, and, of course, the
resilient and welcoming people who have made this part of
Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is.

Travelling to Australia? Travel beyond your expectations with this mini-

JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
guide to South Australia, Northern Territory and Western Australia.

Specially produced by Lonely Planet with the assistance of South Aus-

tralian Tourism Commission, Northern Territory Tourist Commission and
Tourism Western Australia.

travel beyond your expectations

www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com

SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY: SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY:

 We seek to inspire the right kind of travel The Lonely
Planet style embraces the positive power of independ-
ent travel to transform both travellers and the communities
to which they travel. The Lonely Planet way means
taking risks, leaving behind the everyday, experiencing
a culture at rst hand and discovering the people, the
land, the history. Our responsibility is to ensure millions
travel with respect, sensitivity, curiosity and with a liberal
sense of humour.

Journeys to Authentic Australia Authored at Lonely Planet by: Peter Cruttenden,

Travel beyond your expectations
First published June 2005
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Business Solutions in conjunction with
South Australian Tourism Commission,
Tourism Western Australia, and
Northern Territory Tourist Commission
ABN 36 005 607 983
90 Maribyrnong Street, Footscray, VIC 3011, Australia
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Text Lonely Planet Publications 2005
Photographs from Lonely Planet Images, South
Australian Tourism Commission, Tourism Western
Australia and Northern Territory Tourist Commission
Printed in Melbourne by Print Graphics

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JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations

www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com
Kangaroo Island South Australia
EXPERIENCE AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA
Away from Australias eastern seaboard lies a treasure-trove of superb
beaches, mind-blowing natural features, authentic outback experiences,
world-class wines and gourmet fare, ancient Aboriginal cultures, rare and
precious fauna, and, of course, the resilient and welcoming people who have
made this part of Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is.
Just imagine returning home from your Australian adventure and having to
admit to your friends that that you never saw the sun come up over Uluru,
or watched whales and their calves cavorting along the Nullarbor coast,
or witnessed millions of waterbirds taking ight in the Kakadu wetlands, or
swam with whale sharks on Ningaloo Reef, or plunged into a crystal-clear
outback water hole, or explored the magnicent bush in Wilpena Pound.
Theyd wonder how you spent so much time and eort reaching this remote
continent and still managed to miss out on seeing the best bits.
This booklet will help you to avoid such awkward moments. Everything
thats special and unique about the beautiful southern, central, northern
and western areas of this amazing continent can be found within these
pages. Plan your itinerary accordingly, and before long youll be bidding
farewell to the travellers stuck on the beaten track of the east-coast tourist
route and embarking on an extraordinary series of experiences that will stay
in your mind forever.
Uluru Northern Territory
 ACCESSING AUSTRALIAS
HEART & SOUL
Getting started is as easy as taking a ight or turning the ignition key.
Qantas (www.qantas.com.au) and Virgin Blue (www.virginblue.com.au)
y into Adelaide, Perth, Darwin, Alice Springs and Broome, and can connect
to numerous smaller centres and Jetstar (www.jetstar.com.au) ies into
Adelaide. If youre willing to play things by ear, cheap ights are available at
short notice, which can be a great way to cut down on
travelling times. However, the best way to get a real appreciation of the
beauty and majesty of this part of Australia is on four wheels. Hiring or buy-
ing a car will give you the greatest exibility, allowing you to travel on your
own terms, going where and when you like, or staying put for a while when
you nd somewhere that captures your interest. Greyhound (www
.greyhound.com.au) buses oer excellent jump onjump o tickets, while
several companies oer extended tours between capital cities, taking in the
best of the attractions on the way. Another great option is to embark on one
of Australias two great train journeys: the Indian Pacic (Sydney to Perth)
and The Ghan (Adelaide to Darwin). See Lonely Planets latest Australia
guide for details of all transport options within Australia.

Take a look at the following websites for more information

www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com
 AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA EAST Arafura Sea
Sumbawa Savu Sea Timor TIMOR Cobourg
Sumba Melville Is Peninsula Wessel Is
Savu Bathurst Island Mary
Nhulunbuy
Timor River NP
Jabiru Cape Arnhem
Ashmore Reef Darwin
Cartier Is Sea Joseph Arnhem
(Australia) Cape Bonaparte Litchfield
Kakadu Land Gulf of
Londonderry NP
Gulf NP Katherine Carpentaria
INDIAN Mataranka
Groote
Eylandt
Wyndham

y
Kununurra

Hw
Rd ria
Collier Bay Victo
OCEAN Borroloola Mornington

r
ve
Lake Is

Ri
Cape Leveque bb
Gi Argyle
Dampier Derby Elliott Burketown
Peninsula Fitzroy Purnululu NP
Crossing
Broome Halls Creek

Eighty Mile Beach Tennant Creek

Great Sandy Desert NT Mt Isa
Port Hedland
Karratha
Lake Mackay
Boulia
Tom Gibson Desert MacDonn ell
ExmouthPrice Mereenie Ranges
Newman Lake Disappointment Loop Alice Springs QLD
Paraburdoo Karijini
NP Yulara Simpson
WA Kata Tjuta
Uluru Desert Birdsville
Lake Carnegie
Carnarvon
Shark
Bay Marla Oodnadatta
Meekatharra
Great Victoria Desert Lake Eyre
SA
Leonora- Laverton
Kalbarri Mt Magnet Gwalia Coober Pedy
Lake Eyre South
Geraldton

Rainnders
Kalgoorlie- Woomera

ges
lain Broken
Southern
Boulder rbor P
Moora Nulla CedunaR Gaw Hill
Fl
Cervantes Cross
Head an le Port
Eucla of Bight ge r
s Augusta
Perth

NSW
Northam Norseman Whyalla
Fremantle Great Australian Bight Eyre Port Pirie
Coffin Pen.
Bunbury Collie Esperance Adelaide
Cape Naturaliste Bay NP
Margaret River Manjimup Port
Cape Leeuwin Albany Lincoln Victor
35S
Kangaroo Is Harbor
115E
110E

VIC

Naracoorte
SOUTHERN
Mt Gambier
OCEAN Portland

NT
40S
WA SA

0 400 km
0 240 miles
120E

135E

140E
130E
125E
JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations

THE GREAT SOUTHEAST 9

ADELAIDE & AROUND 15
RED CENTRE 23
THE TRACK 31
THE TOP END 37
THE KIMBERLEY 43
WESTERN COAST 49
THE GREAT SOUTHWEST 55
THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA 61

www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com
 MURR RIVE
AY R
THE GREAT SOUTHEAST Waikerie Renmark
To Port
Augusta
Hamley Kapunda Blanchetown Berri
Ardrossan Bridge
Nuriootpa
Loxton
Tanunda Wunkar
Gawler Swan Reach
Williamstown
Gulf Paruna
St Vincent
Wanbi Murray-Sunset
ADELAIDE Halidon National Park

Billiat Berrook
CP
Mt Barker Murray Bridge
Karte
McLaren
Vale Strathalbyn
Fleurieu Tailem Bend
Pinnaroo
Peninsula Lameroo
Mallee Hwy Murrayville
Normanville
Port Middleton
Cape Elliot
Goolwa Yumali
SA
Jervis Victor
Granite
Harbor Is
Penneshaw Meningie
Coonalpyn
Yo Pe

Ngarkat
un ni

Culburra CP
gh nsu
us la

KANGAROO Tintinara
ba
nd

ISLAND
Coorong
National Salt Creek
Park Keith Du
kes
VIC
Prin

Hw
y
ces

Bordertown
Kaniva
Hwy

Mundulla

Padthaway Little Desert

National Park
Keppoch Frances
SOUTHERN Kingston SE
OCEAN Reedy
Creek
Cape Jaffa Naracoorte
Naracoorte Caves
Edenhope
Robe
Greenways
Poolaijelo
Clay Wells Coonawarra
Penola
Beachport

Southend Nangwarry
Millicent
Canunda Casterton
National Park
Tantanoola
To Melbourne
0 50 km (400km)
0 30 miles Mt Gambier
Carpenter Rocks
Dartmoor
Port MacDonnell

Discovery
Bay
 THE GREAT SOUTHEAST
Sweeping surf beaches, breathtaking caves,
blindingly white saltpans and good guzzling
in a world-class wine region could there
be a better way to start your trip into South
Australia?
NARACOORTE CAVES &
COONAWARRA
Just near the Victorian border, the
World Heritagelisted Naracoorte
Caves National Park is a great diver-
sion. Plunge underground to tour
the stunning limestone caves or take
a self-guided tour of the eerie Wet
Cave, but whatever you do, dont
miss the amazing Bat Cave. Arrive
at dusk to witness mass migrations
of bats clouding the sky or peek
into their home using infrared TV
cameras. Its thirsty work, so pull
into the Coonawarra wine region
to taste the famous peppery Shiraz
from this compact wine-producing
powerhouse. There are more than
23 cellar doors offering tastings and
sales, so pick up a few examples of
the worlds finest reds to sustain you
on the journey ahead.
Coonawarra South Australia
COORONG NATIONAL PARK
The vast coastal lagoon of the Coo-
rong takes in shimmering saltpans,
towering sand dunes and the largest
breeding ground for pelicans in the
state. Taking its name from the local
Aboriginal word kranangk (mean-
ing long neck), this impressive vista
was a location for the classic Austral-
ian film Storm Boy. Take a gander at
these remarkable birds, or the host of
ducks, waders and swans throughout
the park. Take the old and unsealed
Coorong Rd south of Salt Creek to
get an inside look at the dunes of
the Coorong. For an insight into the
traditional lifestyle of the Ngarrindjeri
people, head to Camp Coorong (www
.ngarrindjeri.com), where you can go
on guided walks and cultural tours.
SURFING SAFARI
From Adelaide all the way to Kalbarri
on Western Australias central coast,
some of the greatest surf breaks in
the world are just waiting for you and
your boardies. If you dont know your
goofyfooters from your hotdoggers,
start learning the basics at the South
Coast Surf Academy (www.danosurf
.com.au).
VICTOR HARBOR & THE SURF COAST
The gateway to the Fleurieu Peninsu-
la, Victor Harbors sheltered beaches,
great pubs and laid-back vibe make
it the quintessential Aussie seaside
town. Crowds of schoolies (high-
school graduates) flock here at the
end of the year, keen to party after
finishing their exams. Nearby, the ex-
cellent beaches of Goolwa, Middleton
and Port Elliot are perfect for tanning
or tackling the big waves. To work up
a sweat, you can hire a bicycle to ride
the 23km sealed Encounter Bikeway
that follows the coast east from Victor
Harbors Bluff to Goolwa, where you
can indulge in the adrenaline-pump-
ing buzz of skydiving one experi-
ence youre never likely to forget. And
if youre feeling peckish after all that
action, head to the Port Elliot Bakery
and line up with the locals for some of
the best pies, pasties and cream buns
in the state.
While in Victor (as locals call it), drop
into the South Australian Whale
Centre (www.sawhalecentre.com)
to find the best places to spot the
southern right whales (seen June-
October), which are making a strong
comeback after being hunted almost
to extinction. From Victor its only a

five-minute stroll across the causeway
or a short ride aboard the old-
fashioned Clydesdale-drawn tram to
the penguin parade at Granite Island.
Rug up at sunset to watch the comical
antics of the penguins as they return
from a hard days foraging in the
surrounding waters.
FLEURIEU PENINSULA
Head down the peninsula that has
Adelaidians sneaking out of work early
on Friday to hit top-class beaches like
the surfie hang-out of Christies, or get
back to basics at Maslin, Australias
Authentic Australia 11
HEYSEN TRAIL
From Cape Jervis on the tip of Fleu-
rieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge in
the Flinders Ranges, the Heysen Trail
meanders 1200km through South
Australias most stunning landscapes.
You can do small sections such
as through the Barossa or around
Wilpena Pound to get a taste for
the trail. Friends of the Heysen Trail
(www.heysentrail.asn.au) do regular
excursions to dierent sections of
the track.
Coorong National Park South Australia
first nudist beach. For a change of
pace, head for the nearby wineries of
McLaren Vale, which produce some of
Australias most drinkable Sauvignon
Blancs and Smillons. A good way to
experience the regions cellar doors
is by taking the McLaren Vale Cheese
and Wine Trail ($10 per person). The
self-drive trail starts at Blessed Cheese
(www.blessedcheese.com.au), where
owner Mark Potter (local foodie ex-
traordinaire) will send you on your way
with a picnic hamper to enjoy with
your tastings at four wineries. Or for
something different, hop on a camel to
do the rounds of the wineries.
At the tip of the peninsula, the town
of Cape Jervis is just a ferry ride from
the natural wonders and relaxed am-
bience of Kangaroo Island, while the
beaches, bushwalking and fishing of
nearby Deep Creek Conservation Park
will keep you happily occupied for an
afternoons play. Finally, divers will be
in seventh heaven at Yankalilla Bay,
where HMAS Hobart has been scut-
tled amid superb reefs and dramatic
drop-offs.

TOP 10 SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Want to get straight to the best that South Australia has to oer? Heres our top
10 picks:

Bushwalking around or taking a scenic ight

over Wilpena Pound
Exploring Kangaroo Islands pristine wilderness
and wildlife
Slurping and sampling the Barossa
Tucking into feral food at the Prairie Hotel
Getting underground in Coober Pedy
Fabulous festivals of Adelaide
Discover the natural wonders of Arkaroola
Wilderness Sanctuary
Surng in the sun of the Fleurieu Peninsula
Swimming with sea lions at Baird Bay
Whale watching at Head of Bight
Wilpena Pound South Australia
 Terowie
Port
ADELAIDE & AROUND Pirie
Jamestown
Whyte-Yarcowie
Crystal
Brook

Merriton Hallett
Spalding
Port

y
Hw Broughton
Cowell Burra
Brinkworth Valley
Cleve Clare
n
c ol Snowtown
Lin Clare
Arno
Bay
Wallaroo
Kadina

Spencer Moonta
Gulf

Maitland Kapunda

y
Balgowan Hamley

lle
Va
Ardrossan Bridge
Port Victoria Nuriootpa

ssa
Tanunda

ro
Ba
Gawler
Yorke
Peninsula Williamstown
Minlaton Gulf
St Vincent
Hardwicke
Bay

ADELAIDE
Warooka Yorketown

Edithburgh Warrawong Mt Barker

Innes Earth Sanctuary
National
Park McLaren Murray
Vale Bridge
Cape Strathalbyn
Fleurieu
Spencer Peninsula
Normanville
Strait Yankalilla
Investigator Bay Goolwa
Cape Victor
Kingscote Jervis Harbor
Yo
Cape Deep Creek un
Borda American Conservation Pe ghu
River Penneshaw Park ni sb Meningie
KANGAROO ns a
ul nd
ISLAND a
Flinders Chase
National Park Coorong
Rocky Cape Gantheaume National
River Vivonne Conservation Park Park
Bay
Cape du Seal
Couedic Bay
SOUTHERN
OCEAN

0 50 km
0 30 miles
 ADELAIDE & AROUND
Cultured Adelaide has a packed festival
calendar and Australias best-value fine-
dining culture, which happily can be ac-
companied by the Barossas best tipples. For
wildlife fans, Kangaroo Island is only a short
hop away, while further north the beautiful
Flinders Ranges are an unmissable side trip.
ADELAIDE
Ditch the City of Churches stereotypes,
because Adelaide has a lot more to
offer than stained glass and gargoyles,
and over the past couple of decades has
become Australias pre-eminent arts
destination. The River Torrens curves
through this lush cosmopolitan city, but
you can discover an older history at
Tandanya (www.tandanya.com.au), the
indigenous cultural institute, or at the
South Australian Museum (www
.samuseum.sa.gov.au), which houses the
worlds largest exhibition of Australian
Aboriginal culture. Rundle Mall and
Rundle Street offer great dining and
shopping, while the Art Gallery of SA
(www.artgallery.sa.gov.au) hosts
Adelaide South Australia

BUDGET BITES
You dont need to blow your budget
at fancy restaurants to savour
Adelaides eating. Take a free factory
tour of Haighs Chocolates (www
.haighs.com.au) or pack a picnic
from the Central Market (www
.adelaidecitycouncil.com/central
market). To get the good oil, trawl the
markets with Adelaides bargain-
hunting Top Food & Wine Tours
(www.topfoodandwinetours.com.au).
classic Aussie art. Glenelg has swim-
ming beaches 20 minutes from the city,
plus you can immerse yourself with
Temptation Sailing (www.dolphin
boat.com.au) dolphin swims or explore
the replica of HMS Buffalo, which car-
ried the citys original free settlers.
KANGAROO ISLAND, (SIDE TRIP)
Adelaides scenic escape, Kangaroo
Island is overflowing with tower-
ing coastlines, protected beaches
and secluded scrub that offers an
authentic Australian bush experience.
Its isolation has provided a haven
for Australian animals, particularly
kangaroos, wallabies, bandicoots and
possums, which are easily spotted at
dawn and dusk. A little more effort, or
a guided tour, will let you see Tammar
wallabies, koalas, platypus and echid-
nas, while more than 240 species of
birds fill every environmental niche.
Head to Flinders Chase National Park,
which has a new visitors centre with
the good word on flora and fauna.
Organised tours range from simple
ranger-guided walks to mutli-day
packaged tours from the mainlaind;
see www.tourkangarooisland.com.au
for some ideas.
GETTING WILD
Isolation from the mainland has
protected Kangaroo Island from dis-
ease and feral predators, so prepare
yourself to see some of Australias
best wildlife. From Penneshaw
Penguin Centre, rangers take nightly
trips to spy on the cute penguins
waddling along the shore near
town. In Flinders Chase National
Park theres even more wildlife spot-
ting, with koalas, echidnas, possums
and heaps of kangaroos throughout
the mallee bush. And at Seal Bay
youll see sea lions lounging on the
sand.
 Authentic Australia 17

ADELAIDE FESTIVALS
Adelaide is Australias festival capital, oering the best of food, wine, sport and culture
throughout the year. The international cycling action of the Jacobs Creek Tour
Down Under (Jan) kicks the year o. Every two years in March theres the high-brow
Adelaide Festival of Arts and the quirky Adelaide Fringe Festival, as well as the
worlds best musicians congregating every year for WOMADelaide. Aprils Oakbank
Easter Racing Carnival (in the Adelaide Hills) is big for picnicking and partying, while
Julys Adelaide Festival of Ideas draws together thinkers from weapons inspectors to
Franciscan friars. Feast (Nov) is one of Australias best-known lesbian and gay cultural
festivals, while Tasting Australia (Oct), with its gathering of gourmets and chefs, has
to be the countrys most delectable. December rounds o the year with the Bay Sports
Festival, held seaside at Glenelg with beach volleyball, an aquathon and a surf carnival.

Kangaroo
Barossa Valley
Island South Australia

A TASTE OF OUTBACK LIFE
Staying at an outback station is both
a whole lot of fun and a great way to
sample life on the land in this harsh
and unforgiving environment. You
can pitch a tent or stay in the lap of
luxury, and most places oer tours of
their properties by plane, motorbike
or horseback plus self-drive routes,
bushwalking and gourmet meals. See
www.indersoutback.com for a list
of options.
BAROSSA
Australias best-known wine district
crushes around 65,000 tonnes of
grapes annually, check out some
of the best known labels, Yalumba,
Wolf Blass and Penfolds. Just 55km
northeast of Adelaide, the Barossa is
an easy drive; otherwise take a tour
with Groovy Grape Getaways
(www.groovygrape.com.au).
FLINDERS RANGES (SIDE TRIP)
Ochre hills become majestic peaks as
you enter Flinders Ranges National
Park, where a massive natural basin,
Wilpena Pound, is a haven for native
wildlife. Theres great bushwalking or
you can check out quaint villages such
as Melrose or Quorn, with its scenic
Pichi Richi Railway. Stop in at the Prai-
rie Hotel for some famous feral food
(including wallaby stir-fries, camel
sausages and emu-egg frittata) or take

WINERY WONDERLAND
With over 50 cellar doors in the Barossa theres heaps of places to sample the valleys
nest. Jacobs Creek Visitor Centre (www.jacobscreek.com) showcases Australias
biggest wine exporter, while boutique operators Rockford Wines produce a avour-
some Shiraz. A perfect way to enjoy the wineries is with a leisurely picnic at wineries
such as riverside Peter Lehmann Wines, or Bethany Wines with gentle hillside views.
Still thirsty? You can hit the Clare Valleys small family and boutique wineries, which
are all within driving distance from Adelaide. The Clare Valley visitors centre (www
.clarevalley.com.au) has pointers on the valleys best bottles at spots like Annies Lane
and Sevenhill Cellars.
 Authentic Australia 19

a joy flight and marvel over Wilpena as Rabbit Proof Fence, a poignant look
Pound. The whole area is a popular at the travails of Aboriginal children
location for Australian bush films, such forcibly separated from their families.

ADNYAMATHANHA CULTURE
Land is integral to the culture of the local Adnyamathanha (Hill People) indigenous
groups. Their stories seek to explain the freakish land formations of the area; Wilpena
Pound, for example, is said to be two giant snakes who could not move after feasting
on too many humans. The rich red colours of the landscape are believed to be the
blood of dogs who once roamed the area. You can hear more traditional lore at the
indigenous cultural centre of Iga Warta (www.igawarta.com), which also oers
fascinating tours.

Flinders
BarossaRanges
Valley South Australia
FLINDERS RANGES

0 30 km
0 20 miles

Parachilna Parachilna Gorge

Lake
Torrens

Flinders Ranges
National Park

Wilpena
Wilpena Pound

ES
NG
To Coober Pedy RA
Hawker
RS
DE
IN
FL

Cradock
St
ua
rt
Hw
y

Belton
The Dutchmans
Stern CP

Quorn

Carrieton

Johnburgh

Port
Augusta

Wilmington
Willowie

Orroroo

Melrose

To Adelaide To Adelaide

Whyalla
 Authentic Australia 21

WORKING HOLIDAYS
If you need to earn a few extra Aussie dollars to fund your trip, and you are under 30
years of age with a Working Holiday visa, there are plenty of opportunities to put
down your rucksack and join the workforce for a while. Around harvest time (March
to April) in South Australia there are jobs in the wine industry picking and crushing
grapes contact the wineries direct. For regional fruit-picking, head to Berri (SA), where
workers are recruited for the South Australian orchards; up north for the mango season
in Darwin (May to October); or the great fruit bowl of Kununurra, in Western Australia
(April to November). For a taste of outback life, there are seasonal jobs on cattle stations
and roadhouses (see www.australiasoutback.com), while pubs and restaurants across all
states are always looking for casual sta. For those with professional qualications, coun-
try areas are crying out for locums, nurses and casual teaching sta agencies such as
Employment Plus (www.employmentplus.com.au) can help you nd a match for your
skills. And if you just want to work for bed and board with some like-minded altruists,
contact Willing Workers on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.com.au).

Barossa
Riverland
Valley South Australia
RED CENTRE Alice Springs Mt Isabel
ATNETYE
ABORIGINAL LAND
West MacDonnell
National Park
Areyonga Santa Teresa

y
Watarrka Finke

Hw
Kings
National Canyon Illpurla Gorge Stuarts Well
Park National
Park
6

Mt Rodinga

rt
Stua
NT
Kata Tjuta
(The Olgas) Chambers
Pillar
Yulara Erldunda Mt Hakea
SIMPSON
Uluru- Mt Kingston DESERT
Uluru
(Ayers Kata Tjuta Mt Connor
Finke
Rock) National (Artula) Mt Peebles
Park
Mt Reynolds Kulgera
Mt Etingimbra
Ernabella
Amata (Pukatja)

e
ng
Witjira

Ra
National

ot
Park

g
Ba
Fregon Simpson Desert
Indulkana Regional
Mt Alberga Reserve
Mimili
Marla
Mintabie
PITJANTJATJARA
ABORIGINAL LAND Oodnadatta
Stu
art

Cadney Homestead
Mt Waddikee
Roadhouse
Hwy

Lake
Giles Memorial Eyre
North
Mt Euee
Conservation Tallaringa Lake Eyre
Park CP National Park
William
WOOMERA Creek
PROHIBITED AREA Coober Pedy
(Stuart Hwy unrestricted)
Do Lake
MARALINGA g Eyre
TJARUTJA South
ABORIGINAL Fe
nc
LAND e

Oo SA
lde
a
Maralinga
Ra
ng
(Restricted Area) e
Olympic Dam Andamooka
Tarcoola Roxby Downs
Lake
Kingoonya Glendambo Torrens
Yellabinna RR Mt Finke Woomera National
Nullarbor Park Lake
Roadhouse
Lake Pimba Torrens
& Hotel
Everard
Yalata
Roadhouse
Lake
Nundroo Lake Gairdner
Head Roadhouse Gairdner
of Bight & Hotel
Pureba CP
National
Penong Park
Fowlers
Great Bay Ceduna Mt Hiltaba
Australian Quorn
Bight Smoky Bay Wirrula
Haslam Port Augusta
0 100 km
0 60 miles

A journey to the outback takes on the aura
of a pilgrimage as you travel into Australias
spiritual and physical heart. Features erupt
from the landscape and waterholes harbour
in valleys. Stunning scenery prompts dramatic
colour changes, from the subtle hues captured
by artist Albert Namatjira to rich earth tones
against an endless blue sky, punctuated with
ghostly tree trunks and bursts of greenery.
COOBER PEDY
With over a million mines studded
around Coober Pedy all searching for
RED CENTRE
the fire in the stone, this township is
definitely the Opal capital of the world.
The lure of precious stones has attract-
ed people to work excavations such
as Toms Working Opal Mine, living in
underground houses and worshipping
in subterranean churches. Youll be in
awe of the nearby Breakaways Reserve,
a stark yet colourful area of arid hills
and scarps that includes the white-and-
yellow mesa called the Castle. Further
out is the Dog Fence and the table-like
Moon Plain on the road to Oodnadatta.
Coober Pedy South Australia
 OUTBACK TRACKS
To get a real taste of Australias outback heart, check out one of the remote tracks that
criss-cross the central deserts. The 615km Oodnadatta Track is a great option, a decent
conventional car should suce or alternatively hitch a ride with the mailman on his
route from Coober Pedy to some of the most remote towns in Australia (check the road
conditions before you head o). Its well travelled, has a few towns where you can get
supplies and makes a good alternative route if youre heading north from the Flinders
Ranges towards Alice Springs. If youre feeling more adventurous, there are heaps of
other tracks to explore that will take you deep into the magnicent outback country,
but this stu is seriously remote and requires expensive vehicles, loads of food and
water, and specialist gear to get through safely; a tour may be the best option.

ULURU & KATA TJUTA MAKING MOVIES

Towering above the surrounding pan-
cake-flat plains, majestic Uluru (Ayers
Rock) reveals a different aspect from
every angle. To fully appreciate its size,
pack your picnic supplies in Yulara and
circumnavigate Ulurus base, pausing
at tranquil waterholes, peering into
caves and soaking up the tranquillity
along the way. Join Aboriginal-guided
Anangu Tours (www.anangutours
.com.au) for shorter walks enriched
with stories of the Dreaming and some
of the regions bush tucker. Slip into
the curved and inspiring UluruKata
Tjuta Cultural Centre for an insight into
Ulurus spiritual significance to its tradi-
tional owners, and check out artworks
After spotting the wrecked spacecraft
in Coober Pedys main street, you
might believe that youll be shar-
ing hostels with Martians. But the
spectacular country surrounding
Coober Pedy has served as the end of
the world in lms such as Mad Max
III and Stark. Other location scouts
reckoned it was another planet, using
it in otherworldly movies such as Red
Planet and Pitch Black (which left
behind the main streets spacecraft).
More recently the town had an auto-
biographical role in Pobby & Dingan,
a lm about the unique characters of
Coober Pedy.

from the Pitjantjatjara lands at the cen-
tres gallery. Take another day to walk
the Valley of the Winds at the equally
captivating Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). The
track winds through gorges offering
surreal views of its domes.
Whatever you do, dont miss a sunset
(or a sunrise!). The enigmatic monolith
turns from ochre-brown to burnished
orange and intense red before blend-
ing with the night sky, while Kata Tjuta
is a marvel at its blood-red best. Take
along champagne for a toast to nature.
Tours and accommodation suit all
tastes, from camping under the stars
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National
Authentic Australia 25
in a swag to secluded five-star cabins.
You can fly around Uluru for birds-eye
views, ride a camel over the dunes at
sunrise or enjoy the lack of city lights
at the days finale and explore the inky
southern sky, enlivened with Anangu
and Greek astrological legends at the
Night Sky Show (www.ecotours.com
.au). If youre ripe for a splurge, the
unique Sounds of Silence (www
.voyages.com.au) sets an Uluru sunset
to the soundtrack of the didgeridoo
and sparkling wine. A sumptuous
candlelit dinner in the desert and
stargazing ensue.
BarossaPark
Valley
Northern
South Australia
Territory
 THE MEREENIE LOOP (SIDE TRIP)
Between Uluru and Alice Springs,
you can detour to Watarrka (Kings
Canyon) National Park, one of central
Australias most spectacular sights.
Amphitheatre views of the towering
100m-high canyon rim may make
you want to sing an aria reminiscent
of a scene from Priscilla, Queen of the
Desert, while rewarding walks over-
look sheer cliffs, passing prehistoric
cycads in the tranquil Garden of
Eden and a maze of bizarre, eroded
sandstone domes.
From here, the Mereenie Loop cuts
through semi-desert land to Her-
mannsburg, best known as the home
of acclaimed Aboriginal artist Albert
Namatjira (190259). After touring the
historic Hermannsburg Christian Mis-
sion, replenish yourself with an apple
strudel and check out the distinctive
works of the communitys talented
artists and Hermannsburg Potters.
Take a tour to check out remnants of
ancient palms in Palm Valley and chal-
lenging walks in nearby Finke Gorge
National Park.

THE MEREENIE LOOP Ta

na
m
i Trephina
West MacDonnell Gorge
National Park Rd
Red Bank
MacDon
Gorge Mt Sonder nell Telegraph Ranges
Ormiston Gorge Standley Station
Ocre Pits Ellery Creek Chasm
Glen Alice Springs
Permit required Big Hole
for access along Helen
Mereenie Loop Rd
y
Hw

Illpurla Hermannsburg
Santa Teresa
Areyonga
art

Watarrka Finke Gorge

Stu

National Park National Park

Kings Rainbow Valley
Canyon Conservation
Stuarts Well Reserve
PETERMANN
ABORIGINAL Henbury Meteorite
LAND TRUST Craters Historic
Reserve

Mt Rodinga

Alice Well

Lake
Amadeus
Mt Hakea
Erldunda
Yulara Uluru- 0 50 km
Kata Tjuta 0 30 miles
National Park
Uluru
(Ayers Rock) Mt Kingston

MACDONNELL RANGES
The rugged MacDonnell Ranges
stretch like a spine for 400km to the
east and west of Alice Springs, and har-
bour gorges carved by ancient rivers
and rocky waterholes. Devote a couple
of days to covering the major sites
of the region, camp out in low-key
areas to feel and experience the Red
Centre, or stay at Glen Helens friendly
homestead to enjoy the live music
and hearty country meals. Watch
the midday sunlight stream between
near-vertical walls at Standley Chasm,
West MacDonnell National
Authentic Australia 27
THE CENTRE & THE
RAINBOW
You can position yourself at the dead
centre of Australia at the Lambert
Centre. Traverse rugged sandy tracks
and 4WD territory to reach it and the
multi-hued Chambers Pillar, between
the Stuart Hwy and the Simpson
Desert. Rainbow Valley Conservation
Centre, a spectacle of glowing cream
and red sandstone clis at sunset,
is also worth a detour o the Stuart
Hwy.
BarossaPark
Valley
Northern
South Australia
Territory
Simpson Desert Northern Territory

take a refreshing swim in permanent
waterholes at Ellery Creek Big Hole
or narrow Redbank Gorge, and snap
a photo of the coloured walls of the
Ochre Pits still used as a source of
paints by local Aboriginal people.
Dont miss the black-footed rock
wallabies bouncing across the rocks
of rugged Ormiston Gorge in the
late afternoon. In the east, Trephina
Gorge Nature Park rewards visitors
with wild and beautiful scenery, as
does the garnet-studded dry river-
bed of remote Ruby Gap.
Authentic Australia 29
LARAPINTA TRAIL
Hikers looking for a challenge
can soak up some wild scenery and
isolation on a section of the
Larapinta Trail (www.nt.gov
.au/ipe/pwcnt). The 12-stage, 220km
track spans the backbone of the
West MacDonnell Ranges, traversing
dry river beds and ridge-tops, and
skirting beautiful waterholes from
Alice Springs Telegraph Station to
serene Mt Sonder.
Larapinta
BarossaTrail
Valley
Northern
South Australia
Territory
 THE TRACK
Angurugu
Nitmiluk Mt Furner Numbulwar
(Katherine Gorge)
National Park GROOTE 0 100 km
Katherine Beswick Roper EYLANDT 0 60 mi
Bar
Cutta Cutta Caves Elsey Ngukurr
National Park Port Roper
Maria Is GULF
Mataranka
y

OF
Hw

Gregory Elsey
CARPENTARIA
ia

HODGSON DOWNS

Stua
National
tor

Park ABORIGINAL LAND MARRA SIR EDWARD

Vic

rt H
Alice Springs to

ABORIGINAL PELLEW GROUP

Larrimah ALAWA LAND TRUST
y w ABORIGINAL Vanderlin Is
LAND TRUST
Victoria

Borroloola
Daly Waters Mt Brown
Darw

Top Springs GARAWA

Ri

Dunmarra Cape Crawford

in
ve

ABORIGINAL
r

LAND TRUST
Railway

BARKLY TABLELAND

Hells Gate

Tablelands
Newcastle Waters Roadhouse

Elliott NT
Mt Seale
WAANYI / Doomadgee
Mt Reid Lake GARAWA
Woods ABORIGINAL
Renner Springs Mt Steiglitz
Hw
LAND
Tarrabool y
Mt Hawker
Lake Mt Morgan
Mirrinyungu KARLANTIJPA NORTH
ABORIGINAL LAND TRUST Lawn Hill
CENTRAL Lake National Park
DESERT Sylvester
ABORIGINAL Threeways Mt Lamb
LAND TRUST Tennant Creek Ba
rkl
y
TANAMI DESERT MUNGKARTA Hwy
Camooweal
ABORIGINAL Wunura Store
LAND TRUST Camooweal
KARLANTIJPA SOUTH WAKAYA ABORIGINAL Caves
Devils Marbles National Park
ABORIGINAL Conservation Reserve LAND TRUST
LAND TRUST Wauchope
Mt Solitaire Davenport Range QLD
Wycliffe Well National Park
Mt Rawlins
Ali-Curung Alpurrurulam
WIRLYAJARRAYI
ABORIGINAL
y

Mt Alone
Hw

Mt Theo LAND
Barrow Creek
y
Hw

Sandover Urandangi
rt
ua

Mt Leichhardt Mt Hogarth
St

Mt Dixon
Ti Tree Arlparra Store
Urapuntja
Yuendumu Utopia
Ta
nam
i Mt Sainthill
Aileron
Mt Guide
Tilmouth Well Roadhouse
Rd

Hwy Mt Wooldridge
Plenty
s
Range
Mt Liebig
Papunya
onnell Tropic of Capricorn
MacD Mt Gerald
Ikuntki Trephina Gorge
Mt Putardi (Haasts Bluff) ATNETYE
PETERMANN West MacDonnell Alice Springs Mt Isabel ABORIGINAL LAND
ABORIGINAL National Park
LAND TRUST Areyonga Santa Teresa
Finke Gorge Simpson
Watarrka Kings National Park Desert
National Park Canyon Illpurla Stuarts Well NP

The rich red landscape and open skies north of
Alice hold the key to some of the regions most
celebrated Aboriginal art. You gain a different
perspective on the Explorers Way, a trip
up the sealed Stuart Hwy, accompanied by
thundering road trains, the odd mad-keen (or
just plain mad) cyclist, the sight of wedge-tailed
eagles, and laconic outback wit in atmospheric
roadhouses.
ALICE SPRINGS
Central Australias major centre, Alice
Springs, is a classic place, with modern
facilities not quite concealing the out-
THE TRACK
back larrikinism it was built on. Just
check out the annual Henley-on-Todd
Regatta (September/October), where
boat crews dash up the dry Todd
River, or wander into one of the many
pubs for a long night of propping up
the bar. The Alices pioneer history
is everywhere to be seen, partly told
through the colourful murals that fla-
vour the town. Sit in on a lesson at the
School of the Air (www.assoa.nt.edu
.au) as it is delivered to kids on remote
outback stations, or tour the base
of the Royal Flying Doctor Service
Alice Springs Northern Territory
(www.flyingdoctor.net/central/alice.htm),
which routinely operates over-the-air
medical clinics to isolated communi-
ties. And thank your lucky stars that
the ancient medical gear on display
here has been superseded! The towns
undoubted highlight is the chance to
catch up with rare desert critters at the
inimitable Alice Springs Desert Park
(www.alicespringsdesertpark.com.au) at
the foot of the MacDonnell Ranges. Here
youll meet the bilby (Australias adapta-
tion of the Easter Bunny), thorny devils,
tiny marsupial mice and a myriad of oth-
er species that have adapted amazingly
to their harsh and unique habitats so
well, in fact, that youre unlikely to ever
see these secretive creatures in their own
environment. And make sure you duck
your head at the birds-of-prey display,
where huge, swooping wedge-tailed
eagles display their skills.
THE HIGHWAY NORTH
The Stuart Highway, a sealed and well
maintained stretch of road, heads
north from Alice, roughly following
the Telegraph Lines 3600km route
from Adelaide to Darwin. Along The
Track, check out quirky outback pub-
cum-roadhouses like Barrow Creek
Hotel, where the wall is adorned
with business cards, banknotes and
other paraphernalia. Further north,
Earthlings are welcome at Wycliffe
Well (www.wycliffe.com.au), a holi-
day park that offers a surreal outback
experience of the alien kind in the
UFO capital of Australia. Try to get
through their huge range of interna-
tional beers.
Take a break at the Devils Marbles
strange clusters of spherical rocks
stacked in precarious piles that strad-
dle both sides of the highway. They

ARTS OF CENTRAL AUSTRALIA

The vivid central Australian landscape has inspired generations of indigenous artists,
who depict the colours and textures of the desert in oils, watercolours and dots. In Alice
Springs, the Araluen Centre for Arts & Entertainment (www.nt.gov.au/dam) houses
the Namatjira Gallery and hosts local and travelling exhibitions. Galleries in town sell art-
ists works from renowned regions such as Papunya Tula, Utopia and Hermannsburg. For
something less high-brow, don your favourite head gear and strut your stu at the Alice
Springs Beanie Festival (July), where wearable art gets cult status.

QUOTABLE QUOTES
Its the most simple instrument in the
world just a branch of a tree minus
termites. William Barton, one of Aus-
tralias nest didgeridoo players.
are particularly beautiful at sunrise
and sunset when the boulders, punc-
tuated by clumps of golden spinifex,
exude a rich glow. Several Dreaming
trails cross this sacred site, which is
believed to be the eggs laid by the
Rainbow Serpent.
Devils Marbles near Tennant
Authentic Australia 33
TENNANT CREEK & BEYOND
In perennially sunny Tennant Creek,
take a trip back in time at Battery Hill,
an underground mine and remnant of
the gold rush era, then head to Mary
Ann Dam for a cooling dip. Acquaint
yourself with Warumungu culture and
the art of the Barkly region at Nyinkka
Nyunyu Art and Culture Centre
(www.nyinkkanyunyu.com.au) in town.
North of Tennant Creek, the Barkly
Hwy splits off the Stuart Hwy, tra-
versing the Barkly Tableland to the
Queensland border and Mt Isa. Con-
tinuing along the Stuart Hwy, a slight
Barossa
Creek
Valley
Northern
South Australia
Territory
detour leads to the fascinating former
droving town of Newcastle Waters,
where beer-thirsty drovers would cut
loose after weeks on the track. Its now
practically a ghost town. Rather more
lively is eccentric Daly Waters Pub, just
to the north, which has been dubbed
the Northern Territorys oldest pub.
If you need to rejuvenate travel-wea-
ry limbs, theres no finer place than
the pandanus-lined natural thermal
pools at Mataranka or the crystal-
clear Bitter Springs in a natural
pocket of rainforest. Early station life
can be explored at the Elsey Station
Homestead, constructed for the film
We of the Never Never.
On the edge of Arnhem Land, Manyal-
laluks Dreaming Place (aboriginal
touroperators.com.au/blackpages/nt
/manyallaluk.html; Apr-Nov) is an au-
thentic Aboriginal experience. The tour
includes spear throwing, didgeridoo
playing, sampling bush tucker and in-
formation about bush medicine. Closer
to Katherine, you can explore the
tropical Cutta Cutta Caves (best time
to visit is May to November), where
endangered ghost bats and orange
horseshoe bats roost amid stalactites.

TOP 10 NORTHERN TERRITORY

Want to get straight to the best Northern Territory has to oer? Heres our top 10
picks:

Soaking up an Uluru sunset

Perusing Kakadus wetlands and rock art
Canoeing along Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)
Having a beer and a yarn in an outback pub
Feasting at Darwins markets
Bathing in waterholes, falls and themal pools
Glimpsing the rare and the nocturnal at the
Alice Springs Desert Park
Admiring awesome crocodiles at Shady Camp
Learning about Aboriginal culture
Taking a cruise at sunset in Darwin
Darwin Northern Territory
 THE TOP END

Cobourg ARAFURA SEA 0 100 km

Peninsula Croker 0
TIWI ISLANDS Melville Island Island Marchinbar Is 60 mi

Pularumpi Milikapiti Garig Gunak WESSEL

NP Braithwaite ISLANDS
Point Guluwuru Is
Bathurst Pickertaramoor
Island Van Diemen Maningrida Galiwinku
TIMOR Beagle Gulf Gulf Nhulunbuy
SEA DARWIN Palmerston Ubirr Gunbalanya Ramingining
Dhupuma
Shady Camp (Oenpelli) Arnhem Gapuwiyak
Noonamah Mary River Jabiru Land Gove Garrthalala
Berry Springs NP Nourlangie
Batchelor Bark Hut Inn Mt Gilruth Peninsula Cape Grey
Adelaide River ARNHEM LAND
Litchfield Kakadu ALT
Cape Scott NP NP Bulman
DALY RIVER / Mt Marumba Alyangula
Joseph PORT KEATS Pine Creek
ALT Daly Butterfly Nitmiluk Angurugu
Bonaparte Peppimenarti River Gorge (Katherine Gorge)
Gulf Mt Furner
Palumpa NP NP Numbulwar GROOTE GULF
Wadeye Katherine Beswick
Roper
Ngukurr EYLANDT OF
(Port Keats) Bar Port Roper
Stu Mataranka CARPENTARIA
art Maria Is
y
Hw
Ali

Gregory Elsey HODGSON DOWNS MARRA

ce

ALT SIR EDWARD

Timber NP NP ALT
Springs to Darwin

WA PELLEW GROUP
ria

Keep River Creek NT

cto

Larrimah ALAWA Vanderlin Is

Kununurra NP
Vi

ALT
Hw
Victoria R

Borroloola
y

Daly Waters
Lake GARAWA
Gregory Top Springs Mt Brown ALT
Argyle NP Dunmarra
Railw

Cape Crawford
WAGURUNGURU
ive

ALT
ay

BARKLY TABLELAND
r

QLD

Kakadu National Park Northern Territory


The monsoonal Top End beckons the adven-
turous to enter a different world, marked by
the Wet and Dry seasons and infused with
Aboriginal spirituality. Unspoilt wilderness
areas support cascading waterfalls, bubbling
thermal pools, lily-fringed billabongs and
abundant wildlife. To some the Top End
retains a frontier feel, while others revel in
Darwins easy-going charm.
KATHERINE
Make a beeline for big-draw Nitmiluk
(Katherine Gorge) National Park. Picture
yourself paddling a canoe between
THE TOP END
the towering rock walls carved out by
the Katherine River and then dragging
your canoe onto the sand to tuck into
a packed lunch. You can let someone
else do the work and take a boat cruise
to view rock art and see where Austral-
ias first colour film, Jedda, was partly
filmed in 1955. Even the Ghan train
stops long enough in Katherine for
passengers to take a cruise. Gain a view
from above on an excellent walking
trail that climbs the escarpment. Back
in Katherine, soak in the thermal pool
or sit in on a School of the Air lesson.
Katherine Gorge Northern Territory

JATBULA TRAIL
Described as awesome by hikers, the
inspiring 66km, one-way Jatbula Trail
leads from Katherine Gorge to the
pandanus-lined Sweetwater Pool at
Leliyn (Edith) Falls, on the edge of Nit-
miluk National Park. The ve-day hike
mounts the Arnhem Land escarpment,
with each camp site positioned beside a
picturesque water hole or waterfall.
LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK
Weave through land that is dotted
with curious anthills, overflowing with
waterfalls and dotted with crystal-clear
plunge pools in Litchfield National
Park. Take the creek walk through
monsoon forest to Florence Falls, a
sheer-sided pool and the Parks best
swimming hole. Loop around the rock-
pools at Tolmer Falls for stunning views
of tombstone-like pillars and outcrops
descending into dense forest.
DARWIN
Named after evolutionist Charles
Darwin, Australias northernmost city
continues its evolution with a casual,
multicultural flavour that attracts an
eclectic mix. While keeping one eye on
nearby Asia and another on the south-
ern states, Darwin makes the most of
these influences and ingredients, with
great restaurants, flipping-fresh sea-
food and fine shopping from market
treasures to croc-leather products,
local pearls and authentic Top End arts
and crafts. Join the feasting en masse
at one of the citys colourful, open-air
markets. Darwin was made for cycling
and culture vultures wont miss out on
a pedal around its sights, including the
impressive Museum & Art Gallery of
the Northern Territory, which houses
carvings and bark paintings from the
Tiwi Islands and Arnhem Land.
Take a surreal wander into the oil-stor-
age tunnels built in WWII, when Darwin
copped twice as many bombs as
Pearl Harbor. Combined with Cyclone
Tracys destruction (see the boxed
text Cyclone Tracy), the wonderland
of encrusted remnant wrecks now en-
tertains divers, while landlubbers can
explore a living reef at Indo Pacific Mar-
ine on the wharf, or handfeed fish at
Aquascene (www.aquascene.com.au).
Explore the unique Territory Wildlife
Park (www.territorywildlifepark.com
.au), with its walk-through aquarium.
Soak up Darwins vibrant tropical night-
life and catch a film under the stars at
the Deckchair Cinema (www.deck
chaircinema.com). When winter grips
southern Australia, its warm, dry and

happening in Darwin. In the warmer
months (October to March) brilliant
thunderstorms bring intense lightning.
TIWI ISLANDS (SIDE TRIP)
Known as the Tiwi Islands, Bathurst and
Melville Islands retain their own distinct
culture. Fly out of Darwin for one- and
two-day tours to explore craft work-
shops, early Catholic mission buildings
and carved pukumani (burial poles),
adorned with symbolic and mytho-
logical figures. Tiwi Islander passion for
Aussie rules football ensures the Tiwi
Grand Final (March) is a huge event.
Authentic Australia 39
CYCLONE TRACY
Cyclone Tracy hit Darwin on 25 De-
cember 1974 like a steam train from
the sky at around 280km/h, destroy-
ing around 90% of the citys houses
and irreparably changing life in the
Top End. Check out Darwins few
remaining original Burnett Houses
at Myilly Point and head for the
darkened room at the NT Museum &
Art Gallery, where a chilling recording
of the screeching cyclone simulates
the event.
Tiwi Islands Northern Territory
MARY RIVER NATIONAL PARK
Many are drawn by the lure of hooking
a legendary barramundi, others by the
promise of meeting a crocodile on its
very own turf. Pay heed to the warning
signs. Shady Camp is particularly well
stocked with these fearsome reptiles,
which you can view from a waterbird
or crocodile hide, or mid-river from a
hired dinghy.
KAKADU NATIONAL PARK
No trip to Australia would be com-
plete without a visit to the World
ART IN KAKADU
If youre looking for rock art, Kakadu
is the place to go, with over 5000 sites
dating back 50,000 years. Ubirr and
Nourlangie Rock have some of the
nest rock art galleries in the world and
feature hand stencils, X-raystyle ani-
mals and sh, Dreaming gures and
even an intriguing Tasmanian tiger.
Across the East Alligator River into Arn-
hem Land, Injalak Hill in Gunbalanya
(Oenpelli) is another impressive site;
the art centre here (www.aboriginalart
.org) is an good place to buy authentic
works, including bark paintings and
didgeridoos.
Heritagelisted wonderland of
Kakadu National Park. From Wet to
Dry it offers enchanting proof of lifes
circularity filling and emptying bil-
labongs and vivid green floodplains,
dispersing and congregating wildlife.
Jump on a crack-of-dawn Yellow
Water wetlands cruise for perfect
mirror reflections on the water and to
tick every second bird off your list, or
take an Aboriginal-guided Guluyambi
cruise on the East Alligator River; awe-
inspiring crocodiles feature on both.
Absorb the spirituality of the areas liv-
ing Aboriginal culture at the Warradjan
Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Impressive
rock art can be seen at Ubirr, then sit
back at rocky Nardab Lookout to enjoy
the late afternoon sun casting a magic
golden glow over expansive wetlands.
Take a tour to Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)
in Arnhem Land, which passes bril-
liant green wetlands and spectacular
escarpments, and dont miss a walk
through Nourlangies rock-art galleries,
with enchanting views and the nearby
lily-carpeted Anbangbang billabong.
There are also towering cataracts at
Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls, and a clear
pool at Gunlom (Waterfall Creek, which
starred in Crocodile Dundee); stunning
waterfall-edge views await those who
hike to the top. Finally, when the sun

TAKE A HIKE
From short boardwalk stints to view
rock art and wetland waterbirds to
long scrambles up rocky outcrops and
all-day hikes, walks in Kakadu end in
superlative views and the odd undis-
turbed clear pool. Hard yards reward
with space to contemplate and feel
the place without distraction.
goes down, make camp, boil a billy and
catch a fireball sunset before sleeping
out under a blanket of stars.
Authentic Australia 41
VICTORIA HIGHWAY
The Victoria Hwy stretches from
Katherine to Kununurra, traversing
the tropical and semi-arid transi-
tional zone and threading between
sandstone scarps and soaring cliffs.
Cruises from Timber Creek show-
case majestic Victoria River and its
creatures both the friendly and the
seriously snappy. Sidling up to the
border is Boab-studded Keep River
National Park, a boutique-sized park
with stunning sandstone formations,
rock-art sites, excellent walking
tracks and abundant wildlife.
Kununurra Western Australia
THE KIMBERLEY
O Joseph Peppimenarti
TIMOR AG Bonaparte
SEA P EL Wadeye
HI Kalumburu Gulf (Port Keats) Palumpa
A RC

Mitchell Falls OOMBULGURRI

E
ADMIRALTY GULF ABORIGINAL

RT
ABORIGINAL LAND Drysdale LAND

PA
0 100 km River

NA

Or
0 60 miles
Prince National

BO

d
Park Rive Mirima
Regent Wyndham r
INDIAN Nature Kununurra NP
OCEAN Kuri Bay Reserve Keep River NP
R Emma
EE O Gregory NP
AN LAG Gorge
CK PE Lake
BU CHI DOON DOON

ge
ABORIGINAL Argyle
AR

Rd
WAGURUNGURU

an
LAND ABORIGINAL LAND

R
ot
Cape Leveque

nn
r
Isd RiveMT BARNETT

Sy
Lombadina MILITARY

Or
ell Rive ABORIGINAL
Pender Bay TRAINING AREA Turkey Creek

d
King r LAND

River
Sound (Warmun)
bb WA NT
Beagle Bay Gi Purnululu
Dampier Derby (Bungle Bungle)
Point Peninsula Windjana Gorge NP
E S NP
Coulomb Mowanjum KING
LEOPOLD RANG

Hwy
Nature Tunnel Creek NP
Reserve Mt Coghlan
Mt Archie
Cable Beach Willare
Looma Geike Gorge NP
Broome Roebuck Bridge
Fitzroy Crossing Halls Creek
Roadhouse Roadhouse NOONKANBAH
Rosebuck rn Mt West Wall
ABORIGINAL LAND rthe Ga
Bay No
y

rd
Hw

St G Great ner
eorg
n

Barbrongan Tower Ra
er

e R ng
rth

(225m) ang e
e
No

Edga s Wolfe Creek

r Ra Crater NP
at

nges
Gre

Kununurra Western Australia


Western Australias tropical north is home
to a remote and beautiful wilderness of
wild rivers, wilder storms, ancient cultures
and extraordinary landforms. And when
youre adventured out, the pubs, beaches
and restaurants of Broome await for some
serious R&R.
KUNUNURRA
The gateway to the wonders of the
east Kimberley region, Kununurra is
a small, modern town that makes an
excellent base for journeys into the
THE KIMBERLEY
stunning gorges, crashing waterfalls
and bizarre rock formations of the
Kimberley, and Purnululu and (just
over the border) Keep River National
Parks. On the outskirts of town is
Mirima National Park, a wonderful
area of steep gorges, spinifex plains
and Boab trees, plus some excellent
walking trails that take you high up
escarpments for great views over
town. Kununurra is also known for its
thriving indigenous arts scene, and
has four galleries to browse through.
Purnululu National Park Western Australia
PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK
The Bungle Bungle Range is an
otherworldly landscape of curvy,
striped domes of rock that seem to
ripple across the countryside in the
World Heritagelisted Purnululu
National Park. Amazingly, these
unique formations were only
discovered in the 1980s and
attract visitors from all over the
globe. Youll exercise your legs
getting to the best formations, but
the vista is something to behold
and theres some beautiful water-
holes and excellent camping areas,
stay the night and be mesmerised
by the stars.
GORGE COUNTRY
The Kimberley is rightly famous for its
rugged and picturesque gorges. To
the east, Emma Gorge at El Questro
Wilderness Park has a permanent
waterfall and sensational swimming.
Closer to Broome, the Windjana, and
Geikie gorges and Tunnel Creek are
almost obligatory stops on tours of
the western Kimberley. From sloshing
through Tunnel Creek to a gentle
cruise along Geikie, youll find these
remnants of a 350-million-year-old

TOP 10 WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Want to get straight to the best that Western Australia has to oer?
Heres our top 10 picks:

Swimming with Ningaloo Reefs whale sharks

Kayaking the Bay of Isles at Esperance
Wildlife spotting at Shark Bay
Gawping at Mitchell Falls in the Kimberley
Exploring the Windjana and Geikie gorges and
Tunnel Creek
Plunging into pools in Karijini National Park
Taking a camel ride on Broomes Cable Beach
Day-tripping to Rottnest Island
Dining the night away at Margaret River
Sandboarding the dunes at Lancelin

reef system provide a spectacular
counterpoint to the harsh surround-
ing countryside.
GIBB RIVER ROAD (SIDE TRIP)
This 664km 4WD track takes you into
the heart of the remote Kimberley,
with its rushing rivers, towering water
falls, endless tracts of wilderness,
deserted beaches and untouched
islands. This extraordinary region is
visited by few Australians, let alone
international visitors, and is an adven-
ture not to be missed. Inaccessible
Authentic Australia 45
THE MIGHTY ORD
The damming of the Ord River in
1972 created Lake Argyle, a gigantic
inland freshwater sea thats dotted
with islands and within easy reach
of Kununurra. Hop on a cruise boat
to see the plentiful wildlife or drop
a line into the water and catch a
fish for your supper. Sunset cruises
provide a peaceful way to end the
day over a cold tinnie.
Gibb River Road Western Australia

CROCS UP CLOSE
Just northwest of Kununurra, Wynd-
ham is a small town at the junction
of ve large rivers that are alive with
salt-water crocodiles. A safe way to
get close to these prehistoric reptiles
is the crocodile farm, where youll see
everything from cute little hatchlings
to fearsome monsters. Head there at
feeding time for some great photo
opportunities.
by road during the Wet, you can still
get a sense of its outrageous beauty
through a fly-over from Derby or
Kununurra.
BROOME
Perched on WAs far north coast,
Broome was founded as a pearling
outpost in the 1880s. Today, it still
does the pearl thing, but its grown
into an attractive little town thats
boomed along with traveller interest
in the Kimberley. Its best known
for the beautiful crescent sweep of
Cable Beach traverse it on camel-
back or just while away an afternoon
reading between cooling dips.
Broome also boasts the best restau-
rants north of Perth, some mon-
strous crocs at the Broome Crocodile
Park (owned by eccentric TV celeb
Malcolm Douglas) and a couple of
good little museums. Tours can be
arranged across the Kimberley, from
fishing charters in the remote north-
ern islands to Gibb River Road treks
and gorge explorations.
DAMPIER PENINSULA (SIDE TRIP)
North of Broome, this beautiful
peninsula makes for a brilliant two
or three-day excursion. A sandy 4WD
track takes you into an engaging
BROOME BIRD
OBSERVATORY
A staggering 800,000 migratory
birds break their journey in the mud-
ats south of Broome every year,
and you dont need to be a dork in a
tweed jacket to appreciate the spec-
tacle of so many birds (representing
more than 100 species) crowding
the shores of Roebuck Bay. Tours are
run from Broome and you can either
camp or stay in a chalet to catch
the best viewing times at dawn and
dusk (see www.birdsaustralia
.com.au).

mixture of Aboriginal settlements,
including the Beagle Bay Aboriginal
Community, where the local church
features a stunning mother-of-pearl
altar, and Lombadina Aboriginal
Community, which is noted for its
traditional handcrafts. At the top
of the peninsula, Cape Leveque is
a magnificent spot with wonderful
beaches and stunning red cliffs; sun-
set here is truly memorable. Join a
tour to get the most from your visit:
options include Aboriginal culture,
fishing and mud-crabbing.
Authentic Australia 47
KALUMBURU DREAMING
WAs northernmost town, Kalumburu
(a former Christian mission) lies just
inland of the Timor Sea, at the end of
a seriously rough, rugged and slow
4WD track. The pay-o is that very
few travellers get up this way, and the
local community welcomes visitors,
oering legendary shing and crab-
bing tours, as well as insights into
their ancient cultural practices.
Cape Leveque Western Australia
WESTERN COAST
Roebuck Roadhouse
Broome
Cape Latouche Treville y
Port Smith Hw
Lagrange
Cape Bossut

hern
ch
Be a

Nort
ile

t
M

ea
hty

Gr
Eig Sandfire
Roadhouse
Larrey Point Kidson
Pardoo Track
Port Hedland Roadhouse
Cape Cossigny
ABORIGINAL
INDIAN Montebello Is Dampier LAND Roeburn
Lake
Waukarlycarly
95

OCEAN Karratha YANDEYARRA

Barrow Is ABORIGINAL Marble Bar
LAND 138

Fortescue River Roadhouse Nullagine

Millstream- Mungaroona
Chichester NP Range NR
95

Onslow Rudall River

North West Auski Roadhouse (Karlamilyi)
Cape Wittenoom NP
Hwy

Ningaloo Reef Exmouth a

Tom Price Tallawkan
Cape Range NP Trac
Nanutarra Roadhouse
Karijini
Ningaloo Learmonth Barlee Newman Jigalong
Marine Paraburdoo NP 136

Capricorn
tal Range Range
almia opic of

Hwy
Park o as NR
C
Hi ULLAWARRA Opth Tr
352

Coral Bay gh
t
es

Ra ABORIGINAL LAND LITTLE

Northern
W

ng Barle Collier SANDY

e e Ra
rth

nge Mt Vermon Range DESERT

No

Minilya NP
Lake Kennedy Kumarina Roadhouse
Well 10

Roadhouse
MacLeod Range NP
95

Well 9

Great
Well 8

Mt Gascoyne
yne
Well 7

River
Well 6

co
Gas
Gascoyne Well 5

Junction
n Range
Well 4A

Well 4 (salty)

Carnarvon Robinsor WA Well 3 (unreliable)

ve
Shark
Coordewandy
Ri
Well 2A

Karalundi
Bay Monkey
Well 2
on

Franois Pron NP Mia Mt Hale

95
Well 1

Wiluna
chis

Gladstone
Denham Meekatharra Lake Way
Mur

353

Overlander
Roadhouse Mt Murchison Nannine
Billabong Murchison Settlement
Roadhouse Toolonga Roadhouse Cue
NR Lake Austin Leinster
Mt Charles
Sandstone
Mt Magnet Tabletop
Kalbarri
Binnu Leonora-Gwalia
123

Kalbarri NP Yalgoo Lake

Northampton Mullewa Barlee
95

Eradu
123

95

Geraldton Paynes Find

Abrolhos Archipelago Walkaway Menzies
Dongara- Mt Singleton
Goongarrie
(678m)
116
116

Port Denison Lake

Hu

95

Illawong Eneabba Moore

nt

Wubin Wialki
Ra
nge

Jurien
Cervantes Moora Mt Grey
116

Southern
s

y
Nambung NP The Pinnacles Cross Hw
0 200 km rn
New Norcia Easte
95

0 120 miles Lancelin Merredin

Moore River NP Gingin t
Northam Grea
Rottnest Narembeen
Island PERTH Corrigin
Fremantle Armadale
40

30
Kulin Jilakin Rock
120

107

Natural splendour is everywhere to be seen
along WAs western coast, with a host
of natural wonders to explore, from the
limestone pillars of the Pinnacles and secret
waterholes of Karijini National Park to the
teeming marine life of Ningaloo and Shark
Bay. Charge up your camera and prepare for
experiences found nowhere else in the world.
KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK (SIDE TRIP)
Hidden within the red dust, rugged
rocks and sheer ravines of this inland
national park are gorgeous water-
WESTERN COAST
holes and lush vegetation, which
provide a delightful respite from
the hot sun. Stop at the excellent Kari-
jini visitors centre, run by the areas
traditional owners, the Banyjima, for
an insight into the rich local history,
then don some stout boots and start
exploring the parks many striking
gorges each different from the
last. When youre done, grab your
swimming costume and walk deep
into the crevasses for an afternoons
carefree play in the cool waters. Tours
Weano Gorge Western Australia

ITS A MANS WORLD
The small mining towns of Tom Price,
Paraburdoo and Newman ank
Karijini National Park. Generous
pay and conditions draw the men
north for long shifts underground
extracting iron ore, but far fewer
women make the journey, resulting
in very male-dominated communi-
ties. Pull up a stool at the local bar
and get chatting for an insight into
the isolated but lucrative life of the
modern miner.
are available from Karratha and Port
Hedland (see www.discoverwest.com
.au/tours/karijini+tours.html).
NINGALOO MARINE PARK
The jewel in the crown of the west-
ern coast, Ningaloo Reef is simply
fabulous and not to be missed. This
250km-long inshore coral-reef system
can be accessed merely by hopping
into the water and swimming a little
way into the surf. It supports a stag-
gering variety of marine life, including
mysterious whale sharks, humpback
whales, enormous manta rays and sea
turtles, as well as endless schools of
reef fish. Theres camping aplenty in
Cape Range National Park along the
northern coast, and nothing beats a
cooling swim over the reef first thing
in the morning. For a great party at-
mosphere, head to the tiny village of
Coral Bay, perched right by the reef.
Further north is Exmouth, the areas
main town, with a resident popula-
tion of emus.
SHARK BAY
The captivating Shark Bay World
Heritage & Marine Park is famed for
the dolphins at Monkey Mia, but
WHALE SHARKS
The worlds biggest sh, this gentle
giant visits the plankton-rich Ninga-
loo Reef between April and July each
year. Ningaloo is the best place in the
world to encounter these amazing
beasts, and youd be mad to miss an
opportunity to share the waters with
them. Excellent tours operate out of
both Coral Bay and Exmouth (see
www.exmouthwa.com.au). If you
arrive at other times of the year, you
can swim with languid manta rays
instead, and of course the snorkelling
and diving alone are reason enough
to visit this magical place.

theres plenty more here to check out,
including some extremely rare ani-
mals. One of Australias last sea-grass
beds supports a precious population
of dugongs, while tiger sharks, sea
turtles, dolphins and more can be
seen in the shallow green waters of
this vast bay. A catamaran tour is a
heap of fun and the best way to see
the marine life at close range, while
donning your goggles for a flight
over the area will let you appreciate
its extraordinary beauty. The nearby
Franois Pron National Park, where
Authentic Australia 51
TOURING THE WATERS
Fishing, diving and wildlife watching
are hugely popular here, and there are
plenty of charter boats to take you on
a marine adventure. For landlubbers,
a regional bus tour will take you to
the worlds best-known colony of
stromatolites (lumpy clusters of
microbes descended from organisms
that existed 1900 million years ago),
the blindingly white Shell Beach and
Franois Pron National Park. See
www.sharkbay.asn.au for some ideas.
Barossa
Exmouth
Valley
Western
South Australia
endangered marsupial species are
being reintroduced, is also well worth
a wander, while the tiny town of Den-
ham has all the sleeping, eating and
shopping facilities you need.
KALBARRI
A popular holiday town on the mouth
of the Murchison River, Kalbarri offers
yet more beautiful beaches, some of
the states best surf breaks and an
addictively easy-going ambience.
Just east of town are the deep and
majestic gorges of Kalbarri National
Park, carved out of the sandstone by
the snaking twists and turns of the
Murchison. Sheer cliffs almost seem
to touch as they tower above you,
and climbers and abseilers take full
advantage. Canoeing is a fantastic
way to explore this park, with both
CLOCKWORK DOLPHINS
Dolphins have been appearing
almost every morning for decades
at Monkey Mia, just to the east of
Denham. Ditch your shoes and join
the crowd to see the dolphins being
fed in the shallows by rangers, who
will ll you in on the life cycle of these
intelligent mammals.
catered tours and independent canoe
hire available. In the evening you can
kick back at a beachside caf, eat fish
and chips on the beach or mingle
with the locals over a steak at the pub.
GERALDTON
This fine old town boasts some of
the best pubs north of Perth and a
thriving live-music scene to keep
you leaning on the long timber and
brass bars well into the wee hours.
Swimming in the crystal-clear waters
of the town beaches will ease an
aching head, or you can try your hand
at windsurfing Geraldtons steady
breezes are a magnet for wave-jump-
ers from across the world. Offshore
lies the magnificent isles of the
Abrolhos, home to sea-lion colonies,
sea birds, hefty golden-orb spiders
and the small Tammar wallaby. Bring
your snorkel to gaze in wonder at the
delicate reefs that swarm with a rare
and spectacular mix of tropical and
temperate fish species. Day trips are
offered by several outfits (see www
.geraldtontourist.com.au).
CERVANTES & THE PINNACLES
On the outskirts of the small cray-
fishing seaport of Cervantes the
famous Pinnacles of Nambung

National Park jut weirdly out of the
desert sands. Thousands of lime-
stone pillars, ranging from a few
centimetres in height to towering
5m blocks, suggest a silent army that
is frozen in time, and at dawn and
dusk theyre an arresting and eerie
sight. Just beyond the dunes of the
desert, sweeping fine-sand beaches
entice you to cool off after your arid-
area exploration and watch the sun
swallowed up by the limpid waters of
the Indian Ocean perfect for a late-
evening picnic.
Authentic Australia 53
SURFING THE DUNES
North of Perth, the holiday town of
Lancelin is a prime spot to try your
hand at sandboarding. Immense
dunes or pure white sand stretch
down to the water, so hire a board
and put your skills to the test. Climb-
ing the dunes is thirsty work, but the
beach is close by for a refreshing dip
or a quick windsurf, and Lancelins
classic old pub has great beach views
to go with its ice-cold beer and locally
caught crays.
Barossa
Lancelin
Valley
Western
South Australia
 THE GREAT SOUTHWEST Wialki Kalgoorlie-Boulder
Coolgardie
116

Nambung NP Southern
Moora Kambalda
Mt Grey Cross Boorabbin NP Widgiemooltha
Wongan Nungarin
Wedge Is y Yellowdine
Hills Hw
Lancelin Lake
95

Merredin rn
Carrabin
Cowan
Moore River NP Bindoon Goomalling ste WA
Ea
at
Gre Bruce Rock Norseman
Yanchep Cunderdin
Northam Lake Dundas Rocks
Johnston
PERTH York Dangin
Narembeen
Rottnest Wave Rock Lake
Island Corrigin Hyden Hope
Fremantle Armadale
A
40

lb Kondinin Holt Rock

Rockingham an Brookton
Jilakin Rock Salmon Gums
y Kulin Frank Hann
Mandurah National Park
30

40

Pinjarra
120

Hw Lake King
I N D I A N Lake Clifton y Narrogin 107

Scaddan
Lake Grace
OCEAN Harvey Dalyup Gibson
20

Williams Ravensthorpe
Wagin Esperance
Brunswick Coast Hwy Cape Le
Bunbury Junction
Arthur
River Bay of
Katanning uth Hopetoun Grand
So Isles NP
Cape Naturaliste Donnybrook Fitzgerald River
30

Kojonup Broomehill
Dunsborough Jerramungup National Park
Busselton Tambellup
Bridgetown
10

Stirling Bremer Bay

Margaret Nannup Range NP
Manjimup Cheyne
Cape Knob
River 10

Frankland
Augusta
Pemberton Bay
Shannon NP Mt Barker
102

DEntrecasteaux Mt Frankland NP 30

0 100 km
NP Walpole- Albany 0 60 miles
Nornalup King George Sound
NP Walpole Denmark
SOUTHERN OCEAN

Fremantle Western Australia

 THE GREAT SOUTHWEST
WAs beautiful southwest is a nature-
lovers delight its soaring forests, deserted
beaches, world-class surfing, jewel-like
archipelagos and abundant wildlife will
energise your body and captivate your mind.
More sophisticated pleasures await at the
superb wineries of Margaret River and the
bright lights of brassy Perth, while a tour of
the goldfields at Kalgoorlie evokes the spirit
of Australias greatest gold rush.
PERTH
Settled in 1829, and home to most
of WAs residents, Perth is a city on
the move and in a hurry. From its
glitzy city centre to the grand old
port town of Fremantle, it bustles and
buzzes day and night. And as befits a
major city, theres plenty to keep you
entertained. The Aboriginal collection
at the Art Gallery of Western Aus-
tralia (www.artgallery.wa.gov.au) is
outstanding, while the Aquarium of
Western Australia (www.aqwa.com
.au) will introduce you to WAs daz-
zling array of marine life. Perth is also
blessed with lovely beaches, where
you can learn to surf or windsurf or
Scarborough Western Australia
just soak up the rays. In this sport-
mad town there always seems to be
a game on from cricket and Aussie
Rules to rugby and football. And
when the sun goes down, Perth revs
up, from the Northbridge clubs to the
Freo pubs, with plenty of venues to
catch a band.
KALGOORLIE EXPRESS (SIDE TRIP)
Heading east from Perth takes you
into the heart of Australias greatest
gold reef. Still the nations richest
field, the Golden Mile has been mined
ROTTNEST ISLAND
Twenty kilometres o the coast from
Fremantle, Rotto has been Perths
favourite playground for more than
150 years. Development has been
kept to a minimum, and much of the
island remains untouched and ready
to be explored by bicycle (private
cars are banned). The waters are also
protected and teem with sh and
marine life, making for sensational
snorkelling. The islands most famous
residents are the quokkas, small
wallaby-like marsupials that live
nowhere else and are readily seen
along the coastal fringes.
since 1893, and its riches have built
a thriving frontier town packed with
superb Victorian and Edwardian
buildings, and some of the biggest
and finest pubs you could ever hope
to raise a glass in. Dont miss a look
at the field itself: modern techniques
have produced a gargantuan hole in
the ground that has to be seen to be
believed. Kals colourful past is related
in a couple of museums, and a walk
around the town is a must for architec-
ture buffs. Every September the town
goes off during the running of the
Kalgoorlie Racing Round, the states
biggest country horse-racing carnival.
Its worth the detour for this alone.
MARGARET RIVER
Theres nothing like a decent
bottle of wine with a fine meal, and
at Margaret River youre spoilt for
choice. Established later than its
eastern rivals, Margaret Rivers many
vineyards have caught up quickly
and now produce some the countrys
very finest tipples, complemented by
international-class restaurants
this is definitely one place to plan
a splurge. If you need to work off
all that indulgence, Margaret River
boasts some of the finest surf breaks

in the world, and attracts an inter-
national field every year for its
Masters pro event local surfing
heroes like Taj Burrows often can be
seen riding the Surfers Point waves.
The majestic tall timbers of nearby
Boranup Forest are also worth a look,
as is its fine woodcraft gallery.
PEMBERTON
The magnificent old-growth karri
forests surrounding the tiny timber
town of Pemberton will take your
breath away. Among these tower-
ing and ancient specimens, is the
Authentic Australia 57
Gloucester Tree, a giant among gi-
ants, thrusting high through the can-
opy to a height of 60m and topped
by an old bushfire-lookout platform.
A ladder of broad pegs twists helix-
like upwards around the trunk, and
the wind and swaying upper reaches
make for a hair-raising experience,
but from the top there are killer
views all the way to the coast, and
youll have bragging rights over your
mates for days. Further south near
Walpole, the Valley of the Giants
Treetop Walk gives a birds-eye view
through tingle trees.
Pemberton Western Australia
ALBANY
WAs oldest town, the former whaling
port of Albany is littered with fine old
buildings and has its share of great
beaches, but whales continue to
provide the towns lifeblood. These
days, however, its cruises and not
harpoons that bring in the punters.
Southern right whales are easily spot-
ted along the coves and inlets of King
George Sound from July to October,
and in the warmer months diving is
the go. HMAS Perth was sunk here,
and the reef that has grown around it
provides a world-class experience.
BIBBULMUN TRACK
If time is on your side, tackling a
portion of the 964km Bibbulmun
Track will give you unrivalled access
to the southwests superb karri, marri
and jarrah forests. Winding its way
from Albany to eastern Perth, it takes
you through the best of the regions
natural features, ora and fauna, and
has almost 50 camping grounds with
water and pit toilets along its path.
For details of this amazing track, see
www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au.
WOODY ISLAND
The only island o Esperance with
visitor facilities, Woody is a 240-hectare
nature reserve thats home to abun-
dant wildlife, heaps of sea birds and
some excellent walking trials. It also has
a shoreline dotted with isolated coves
ripe for some serene solo exploration by
kayak. Still a thriving shing centre, you
can swap yarns with shermen at the
dock, bunk down in coastal safari huts
or get right back to nature with a swim
at Skinny Dip Bay!
ESPERANCE
The gorgeous Bay of Isles surrounds
this small agricultural town on a stun-
ning stretch of WAs southern coast.
White-sand beaches and brilliant blue
waters are just the job for lazing in
the warm sun, swimming and beach-
combing the day away, as well as
enjoying a rare look at beach-loving
kangaroos. Across the water, more
than 100 islets dot the waters, and
are home to fur seals, penguins, sea
eagles, dolphins, whales and more.
Just east of town, the Cape Le Grand
National Park offers more fabulous
beaches, excellent bushwalking and
camping under the stars.
Esperance Western Australia
 Great Victoria Desert
THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA Nature Reserve

NULLARBOR SA
PLAIN
Queen Victoria Continues
Spring Nature Below
Reserve Nullarbor
Recreation Nullarbor
AY
IA RAILW Reserve National Park
TRANS-AUSTRAL
COONANA
ABORIGINAL Mundrabilla Eucla
Kambalda LAND WA Border
Roadhouse
Widgiemooltha Madura Village
Cocklebiddy
Hwy
e
Newmans Rocks Caiguna Eyr Great
Balladonia Australian
Norseman Point Dover Bight
Dundas Rocks Nuytsland
Nature Reserve
Point Culver

Salmon Gums Cape Arid

National Park
Grass Patch
Scaddan Israelite Bay
Dalyup Gibson
Condingup Point SOUTHERN
Malcolm OCEAN
Esperance Cape
Arid

Oo
MARALINGA lde e
TJARUTJA a nc
Ra Fe
Do

ABORIGINAL LAND ng
g

Fence SA Dog
Maralinga e Lyndhurst
(Restricted Area) Olympic Dam Andamooka
Tarcoola Roxby Downs Leigh
Nullarbor Lake Creek
Continues Recreation Yellabinna Torrens
Kingoonya Glendambo
Above Reserve Recreation National
Reserve Mt Finke Woomera Park Parachilna
Nullarbor Lake
Nullarbor Roadhouse Everard Pimba
Lake
National Park & Hotel Lake Torrens
Yalata Nundroo Gairdner
Roadhouse Roadhouse National Lake
Head & Hotel Park Gairdner
of Bight Penong
Pureba CP Hawker
Great Australian Bight Fowlers
Mt Hiltaba
Marine Park Bay Cactus Ceduna
Beach
Great Smoky Bay Wirrula Gawler Ranges Port Augusta Quorn
Australian Haslam National Park
Bight Poochera Iron Knob
Streaky Bay Minnipa
Wudinna Kyancutta Whyalla
SOUTHERN Venus Bay
Talia Eyre
OCEAN Hwy Port
Lock Pirie
Elliston Rudall
Snowtown
Sheringa Port
Arno Kadina
Neill Bay
Eyre
Peninsula
Yeelanna Spencer Port
Coffin Bay Gulf Maitland Wakefield
National Park Louth Bay Yorke
0 100 km Lincoln Peninsula
0 60 miles Port Lincoln
National
Cape Carnot Park ADELAIDE

r Strait
Investigato
 THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA
The straight red road heading east from
the West Australian border is remarkable
enough, but a detour down the Eyre Penin-
sula makes this a truly spectacular journey.
NULLARBOR PLAIN
The long stretch from Border Village
to Ceduna takes in several sites along
the way, so stop for regular breaks.
You can turn-off for legendary surf
at Cactus Beach, which has strong
breaks and bush camping. Further
on, Fowlers Bay is an almost ghost
town with heritage buildings and
impressive coastal dunes. Youll pass
through Nullarbor National Park,
hugging the coast to the WA border.
Below, the dry plain is honeycombed
with limestone caves that you can
venture into at Murrawijinie Cave.
Border Village marks the SAWA
border with the Big Kangaroo, a giant
marsupial that offers a cool drink to
passers-by.
HEAD OF BIGHT
Turn off at Yalata Roadhouse to get
to the Head of Bight whale-watching
Great Australian Bight South Australia
platforms, which afford spectacular
views of a major breeding ground for
southern right whales. They migrate
here from Antarctica to calve in its
protected waters between June and
October. The area is protected by the
20,000-sq-km Great Australian Bight
Marine Park, the worlds second-
largest marine park after the Great
Barrier Reef.
CEDUNA
To celebrate the end of your Nullar-
bor trek, stop in at this coastal town
to enjoy the luxury of the states
top seafood. It takes its name from
the Aboriginal word cheedoona (a
place to rest), with good beaches for
EUCLA TELEGRAPH
STATION
In 1877 the rst message was sent
from the Eucla Telegraph Station and
read Eucla line opened. Hurrah. It
was worth celebrating, as this vital
link between Western Australia and
the eastern states sent 11,000 mes-
sages annually. You can explore the
telegraph station ruins just 4km o
the highway.
SEAFOOD PLATTER
Ceduna is perfectly placed to sam-
ple the many fishy delights of the
Eyre Peninsula. In fact, the oysters
are so good they have a festival of
their own, Oysterfest (Oct), and
you can sample some at Smoky
Bay or Denial Bay. Whatever your
preference, head to one of the local
restaurants, tuck in your napkin and
climb into the freshest seafood youll
ever taste.
stretching out on. Ceduna Museum
(www.sa.nationaltrust.org.au/proper
ties.htm) has a fascinating collection
of Aboriginal artefacts and the Mar-
alinga Room details the controversial
British atomic tests that occurred
in the desert north of here. Local
indigenous artists are featured at the
Ceduna Aboriginal Arts and Culture
Centre, a gallery space that features
painted emu eggs and didgeridoos.
EYRE PENINSULA
There are wild and undiscovered
spots along the Eyre Peninsula that
will let you feel youve escaped the
crowds, as well as an idyllic coastline

for camping, fishing and swimming.
Rugged Lincoln National Park boasts
the challenging Investigator Trail, a
six-day walk taking in coastline and
bushland. On Cape Carnot, better
known as Whalers Way, you can spot
migrating whales, and you can meet
the local fur seals at Cape Wiles.
The unofficial capital of the peninsula
is the seafood-rich Port Lincoln, with
towns like Smoky Bay, Streaky Bay
and Elliston along the western coast
that are famous for fishing or oyster-
farming. For an ecologically sound
Authentic Australia 63
FESTIVALS
The annual Tunarama Festival (late
Jan) is held in Port Lincoln on the
Australia Day weekend every year,
celebrating this mighty sh with tuna
tossing, keg rolling, slippery-pole
climbing, boat-building races and
live music.
stay, bunk down at Discovaus (www
.discovaus.com.au), a sun- and wind-
powered restored train carriage in a
secluded spot near Elliston.
Barossa
Eucla
Valley
Western
South Australia
GAWLER RANGES (SIDE TRIP)
Accessible from Minnipa or Wudinna,
the Gawler Ranges National Park is
being discovered by bushwalkers and
nature-lovers alike. Its known for the
spectacular Organ Pipes (shafts of
granite projecting spectacularly out
of cliffs), while Mt Wudinna is reput-
edly SAs largest exposed monolith.
The Granite Trail, a 25km self-drive
tour, is a quick way to see the moun-
tain from Wudinna.
PORT LINCOLN
This prosperous port was almost the
states capital and still does big busi-
ness with several tuna farms in the
bay, so expect to see millionaire fish-
ermen driving beat-up utilities. Hills
surround the town and Boston Island
protects the entrance to the harbour.
The Seahorse Farm is the best way to
get up close to the delicate leafy sea
dragon, SAs state marine emblem,
while Whalers Way, also known as
Cape Carnot, is a great place to spot
not-so-delicate leviathans. Boat tours
are available for close-up inspection
of these enormous mammals, or you
can join a group to explore the walks
and waves of Coffin Bay and Lincoln
National Parks.
COFFIN BAY NATIONAL PARK
(SIDE TRIP)
Not far from Port Lincoln, the wild
coastal scenery of Coffin Bay National
Park promises outdoor adventure.
Theres bush camping at Yangie Bay
and several challenging day walks
through thick heathland, including to
Sudden Jerk Lookout. Watch out for
emus, which are known to be particu-
larly friendly around here.
BAIRD BAY SEA LIONS
Swimming with sea lions and
dolphins at Baird Bay is one of those
must do experiences. Once Baird
Bay Ocean Eco Experiences
(www.bairdbay.com) has guided
you through your encounter with
these playful creatures of the sea,
youll never want to leave the water.
If you prefer to stay on dry land, a
network of gravel roads leads out to
Point Labatt in Baird Bay, where a
large colony of Australian sea lions
is visible from clitop viewing plat-
forms. They usually laze just 100m
away on the rocks. You can stay out
in the wild, camping in Calpatanna
Waterhole Conservation Park at
Wedina Well.
 JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations

Away from the eastern seaboard lies a treasure trove of superb

beaches, mind-blowing natural features, authentic outback
experiences, world-class wines and gourmet fare, ancient
Aboriginal cultures, rare and precious fauna, and, of course, the
resilient and welcoming people who have made this part of
Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is.

Travelling to Australia? Travel beyond your expectations with this mini-

JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
guide to South Australia, Northern Territory and Western Australia.

Specially produced by Lonely Planet with the assistance of South Aus-

tralian Tourism Commission, Northern Territory Tourist Commission and
Tourism Western Australia.

travel beyond your expectations

www.southaustralia.com

www.australiasoutback.com

www.westernaustralia.com

SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY: SPECIALLY PRODUCED BY:

 We seek to inspire the right kind of travel The Lonely
Planet style embraces the positive power of independ-
ent travel to transform both travellers and the communities
to which they travel. The Lonely Planet way means
taking risks, leaving behind the everyday, experiencing
a culture at rst hand and discovering the people, the
land, the history. Our responsibility is to ensure millions
travel with respect, sensitivity, curiosity and with a liberal
sense of humour.

Journeys to Authentic Australia Authored at Lonely Planet by: Peter Cruttenden,

Travel beyond your expectations
First published June 2005
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Business Solutions in conjunction with
South Australian Tourism Commission,
Tourism Western Australia, and
Northern Territory Tourist Commission
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Text Lonely Planet Publications 2005
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