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REV.PROG.COLORATION 30 2000 41
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activity. Linen was the most susceptible to enzymatic softer handle. Treatment conditions have been optimised
hydrolysis, followed by viscose fibre, cotton and lyocell. with respect to concentration and temperature of the
Whole cellulase exhibited higher efficacy than the endo- enzymes 134-361.
enriched cellulase with respect to surface fuzz removal. Work has also been carried out on cellulases used in
The endo-enriched cellulase was less aggressive than the conjunction with proteases [37,38) and pectinase [39].
whole cellulase and resulted in less fabric damage. The Other experimental treatments have included: cellulase
whole cellulase was best for treatment of cotton and with ultrasound (401, commercially available cellulases
lyocell fabrics and the endo-enriched cellulase was more [4143], alkaline cellulase (441 and cellulase with abrasives
suitable for linen, viscose and delicate cotton knits (27,281. (451. Heat-stable glycosidase enzymes and the corres-
Three methods were evaluated for removing fibres ponding genes derived from various Tliermococcus,
protruding from the surface on 100%cotton knit fabrics, to Staphylotlierrnus and Pirococcus organisms have been
improve their quality at the point of purchase and to disclosed and can be utilised in the textile industry [&I. A
maintain quality during the life of the garment. Singeing cellulase preparation with high activity in endoglucanase
fabric either in the greige state or after batchwise dyeing in (more than 15%of total cellulase activity) that can be used
a soft-flow jet was the first method evaluated. in the finishing of cellulose-containing textiles has been
Biopolishing using cellulase was used to determine the described. Use of these components in finishing gave
effect of enzyme treatment before and after dyeing. The improved biofinishing or a stone-washing effect, and
third method was home laundering the fabrics, using a there was improved colour properties, improved visual
detergent containing a cellulase; the process was appearance and a lower tendency to pilling. The strength
evaluated after every five cycles (up to 30 in total), properties of the textile materials were essentially
following by tumble drying. It was demonstrated that unchanged when compared with those of previously
whenever surface fibres can be removed, by any method, used cellulase components [47].
or protected from excessive abrasion during processing,
fabrics will maintain a better surface appearance after XYLANASES
multiple laundering (291.The action of cellulase enzymatic The xylanolytic system of Aspergillus zmsicolor is controlled
pretreatment in the alkaline scouring of cotton fabrics was by induction and carbon catabolic repression. Cellulase-
studied. Improved removal of seed-coat fragments was free xylanase can be also utilised for preparation of
the primary goal of the experiments, and spinning cellulose pulps and in the preparation of textile fibres [a].
blowroom waste, rich in seed-coat fragments, was the A combined treatment of pectinase and xylanases with
main target substrate for enzymatic studies. Commercial reduced amounts of cellulases was equally effective as
cellulases, hemicellulases and pectinases were used. The using high levels of cellulases in the removal of protruding
presence of enzymes enhanced penetration of the alkaline superficial fibres. The resulting fabric surface was
scouring solution and increased the alkaline degradation smoother after enzyme-treated samples compared with
of seed-coat fragments, to an extent that depended on the untreated control; mixtures of enzymes were more
time and enzyme concentration; 284% of the untreated effective than cellulase treatment alone [49].
seed-coat fragments were solubilised by cellulase. With An extract isolated from the fungus Pciiicilliunr
consecutive cellulase treatment and traditional pad-steam janthinellurn, which produces large amounts of xylanase
scouring, weight loss was as high as 78-86%, compared with no detectable cellulase activity, was used as a model
with the alkaline cotton scouring (control),which resulted system to study enzyme induction and production, and to
in only 66% weight loss (301. illustrate the use of such a preparation in the recovery of
Cavaco-Paulo and co-workers have characterised the cellulosic textile fibres [MI.
activities of total cellulase, and EG-rich and CBH-rich
cellulases from Trichodernia reesei, and have shown that
their activities towards cotton fabrics are influenced by LIPASES
ionic strength and adsorbed ionic species as well as by Before cotton fabrics can be dyed and finished, manu-
temperature and pH [31,32]. Adsorption and kinetic factured and natural impurities (dirt, wax, pectin, protein
experiments confirmed that increasing mechanical and hemicellulose) must be removed. Woven fabrics
agitation favors EG attack by greatly increasing the contain residues of products used for machine lubrication.
availability of sites for EG adsorption. It was not clear If not properly removed, these impurities can result in
whether this was a consequence of fibre fibrillation problems occurring during dyeing and finishing [51].
damage or of improved access to fibre surfaces deep The ability of six lipases to improve the hydrophilicity
within the fabric structure [5]. of several polyester fabrics was studied. Five of them
A combination of pectinase and cellulase significantly improved the wetting and absorbency properties of
improves water wetting and retention properties, to a regular polyester fabrics more than did alkaline hydrolysis
level similar to those of commercially scoured cotton under optimal conditions. Compared with aqueous
fabrics [33].Treatment with cellulase and protease not only hydrolysis, the enzyme reactions were highly effective
results in removal of impurities but also improves the under more moderate conditions, including a relatively
wettability of the fabric. Enzyme-treated fabrics have a low concentration, a shorter reaction time, a lower
COLORATION
42 REV.PROG. VOLUME
30 2000
ambient temperature and no buffer. Improved wettability washing process, savings in water consumption, reduced
was accompanied by full strength retention compared pollution, and an increase in the efficiency and repro-
with the significantly reduced strength and mass ducibility of subsequent dyeings [65]. The application of
following alkaline hydrolysis. The wetting and native catalase in discontinuous washing processes
absorbency properties of sulphonated polyester and enables quick and complete decomposition of remaining
microfibre polyester fabrics were also improved by lipase peroxide. Immobilised catalase was more stable against
[52-54]. fluctuations in temperature, pH and the presence of
surfactants. The application of immobilised catalases in
LACCASE AND OTHER OXYGENASES washing systems showed a reduction in peroxide content
The scope for oxidative processes in bleaching cotton and water costs in simulations, compared with figures
fabric has been investigated. Neither the enzymatically obtained from common washing processes [66].
catalysed activation of hydrogen peroxide by the use of
peroxidase nor activation by the use of laccase proved to ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS
be suitable for bleaching. However, the use of glucose Environmental protection is becoming a serious concern
oxidase coupled with desizing by glucoamylase effected a for textile wet processors, and in the dyeing and finishing
significant improvement in brightness values, with the industry the pretreatment of cotton can cause environ-
added benefit of conferring a soft handle. When this mental problems. In the desizing process, yeasts have
process was compared with an alkaline hydrogen been introduced into the enzyme system by different
peroxide process, the advantages of the enzymatic process application methods to decrease the chemical oxygen
included minimisation of wastewater pollution loads and demand loading of the effluents [67. Decolorisation of an
reduction in chemical consumption [55]. Important artificial textile effluent and its component dyes in the
advances in the use of recombinant a-amylase in textile presence of primary carbon and an energy source was
desizing, starch liquefaction and washing have been examined. The relationship between decolorisation and
described [%I. various ligninolytic enzymes was elucidated [ a ] . In two
One new process consists of treating the substrate in an other recent papers several biotechnological issues have
aqueous dye liquor with a dye system that contains been discussed [69,70].
polycyclic aromatic compound ( e g y-phenylenediamine). Many studies on the treatment of textile effluents with
The system also includes a hydrogen peroxide source and enzymes and fungi have been published [71-81]. A recent
at least one enzyme exhibiting peroxidase activity and/or paper examined the action of phenoloxidase-likeactivities
at least one enzyme exhibiting oxidase activity (e.g of siderophores on dyes and textile effluents [82].
laccase), plus one or more aromatic compounds. A dyed
denim sample treated with yphenylenediamine showed * * *
deep purplebrown on blue and white yarns before
washing. After washing the shade was lighter on the The authors would like to acknowledge support from
white yarns 157-601. FAPESI: PRONEX and CNPq.
PROTEASE
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