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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Acknowledgement
At first I would like to thank almighty Allah for giving me the opportunity to complete
my internship. I have taken an opportunity to express my deepest since of gratitude and
sincere thanks to my reverend teacher Prof. Syed FakhrulHasan,Chairman, Department of
Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Banani, Dhaka.I also thank toA.N. M. Ahmad
Ullah , Co-ordinator, Departmentof Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Banani,
Dhaka,for giving me the chance internship in Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

It is an auspicious for me a student of Department of Textile Engineering. One of the


prestigious academic center of the Southeast University to express my deep feeling of
gratitude to the department and especially to my supervisor S.M.MasumAlam,
Department of Textile Engineering.

Special thanks to go Mr.FakirAkhteruzzaman, Managing Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.


For kind help extend to me.

I also thank to Mr.FakirMashriquzzaman, Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. I also thank to


Mr.SyedImtiajRajib of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

I would like to thank Mr.S.M.Md. Fakhruzzaman,GM (Dyeing) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

I would like to thank Mr.Sultan Mahmud Hosseinee,GM (HR & Compliance) of Fakir
Knitwears Ltd.

1 would like to thank Mr. MdMojiburRahman, GM(Production) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

I would like to thank Mr. Md. Kashem Ali Khan, Manager (IE & Planning) of Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. for his valuable direction and special attention.

I would like to thank Mr. Md. Toriqul Islam, Manager (Dyeing) of Fakir Knitwears
Ltd.

I also thank to Mr. Mohammad Din Islam, Asst. Manager (IE & Planning) of Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. for his real advice.

I am also grateful to Mr. Abul Basher Muhammad Suhas, Management Trainee & Mr.
Md. TanvirHossainMazumdar ,PO (Knitting) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. for giving me their
proper guideline and continuous support.

I want to offer my deepest thanks and complements to my parents and brother for their
unselfish and stimulating influence in my any education life.

Finally my cordial gratitude to almighty Allah to successfully completed my industrial


attachment.

May-2012 SAIDUL ISLAM


FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Introduction
Industrial attachment is an essential part of 4 years B. Sc in Textile Engineering
course of Southeast University, Banani, Dhaka. As a Textile graduate should
have an experience in the study of Wet Processing Technology, machineries
products and over all situation of the Factory before work in the industries. I
have the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment on Fakir Knitwears
Ltd. Fakir Knitwears Ltd, is a renowned and modern technology integrated
industry.

Fakir KnitwearsLtd, started in the year 1988 in knit garment exporter, Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. Crossed over a long way and found us as one of the best
knitwear manufacturer-exporter of Bangladesh.

Fakir Knitwears Ltd. certified with OKEO-TEX, ISO 9001-2000 &SRM and
also getting by WRAP and ISO-14001

Fakir Knitwears Ltd. strive to provide the best quality garment to the buyers.
Factory provided advanced technology in all aspects of operation to attain
excellence concerning quality, dependability and commitment for apparel
industry and society. Product quality is ensured with the practice of advanced
technology and our inclination toward meeting with the buyer's satisfaction with
competitive price.
Fig: Location map of the FKL
Chapter One:
Project Description
COMPANY PROFILE

Factory :FakirKnitwears Ltd.

Factory & Head Office :Kyempur, Fatullah, Narayangonj-1400

Phone:88-02-7641379-80

7643242,7643271
Fax:88-02-7634611

Commercial Office :89 Lucky chamber,1stFloor,Motijheel

Dhaka-1000,Bangladesh.

Managing Director :Fakir Akhtaruzzaman (C.I.P)

Year of Establishment :1988

Area of Premises :550000 sqft

Number of Employee :8500

Yearly turnover :$120 million

Production Capacity : Knitting- 40 tons/day

Dyeing-42 tons/day

Dyeing Finishing-42tons/day

Garments-200000 pcs/day

Garments Washing-20000pcs/day

Printing-100000 pcs/day

Embroidery-200 Head
Contact(Marketing) : 1)F.A.Zaman(neaz),(Director)

Email: neaz@fakirgroup.com

2)Mr.MahmudulHasan, DGM

(Merchandising & Marketing)

Email: hasan@fakirgroup.com

3)Mr.BiswajitSaha,AGM

(Merchandising & marketing)

Email: biswajit@fakirgroup.com

Bank:1) National Bank of Pakistan

2)One Bank Limited

3)Datch Bangla Bank Limited

Buyers :H&M

TEMA

PRIMARK

PEACOCKS

PENNYES

BERSHKA

ZERA
Type of Factory& Concern Department

The factory is a Knit composite industry. The factory has the following departments-

Knitting:
o Knitting
o Inspection
o Quality control
Dyeing:
o Batch section
o Dye house
o Dyeing laboratory
o Quality control
o Finishing
Garments:
o Merchandising
o Sample
o Cutting Section
o Sewing Section
o Finishing Section
Maintenance:
o Electrical
o Mechanical
Administration
Security
Marketing
Production Planning & Control
Human Resource & Development

Remarks
The factory has outstanding quality of producing and exporting goods. The infrastructure is
the fabric is well enough to be a very good composite factory in Bangladesh. The
informations are given according to source of Management department.
Organogram
Chapter Two:
Management System
FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Managing Director

Reporting to Chairperson
Responsible to board of director/s

Having total charge of the operation

Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfill


marketing requirements

Monitor factory operation and make sure orders are delivered on time, with
customer's required quality at a minimum cost

Take the total charge of all human resource activities and make sure FKL. To have
professional and cheerful work force

Director
Reporting to Managing Director

Direct co-ordination with Production Manager / Sample Room In-Charge / Quality


Manager / Lab In-Charge.

Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of the
company.

Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises.

Take charge of all pre production activities.

Take charge of all new developments.

Identify tanning needs.

Maintain safety system and procedures.

Introduce cost effective management methods.


General Manager (Operation)
Report directly to Managing Director & Director.
Take total charge of the factory activities.
Take charge of administration / fund management / cost control/ purchasing /
production planning / store and stock control / delivery schedules and compliance.
Directly control all the system maintenance and upgrading.
Take responsibility of all information flow to / from head office with the help of
coordinator
Take charge of all recruitments and terminations with the guidance of Director.

General Manager (Production)


Report directly to Managing Director.
Negociate with the Merchandising DGM
Co-ordinate with the Merchandising department about costing & Consumption.
Directly Report to the Director about the Garments Unit.
Over all monitoring the productivity and take necessary actions.
Responsible to Production Manager. Merchandising (DGM)
Report directly to Managing Director.
Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room In-
Charge.
Upgrade Managing Director on the progress. Follow-up on new order
confirmations and transfer information to subordinates
Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production plan
is up to date.
Monitoring maintained and processed order information, which transferred
between head office and the factory
Execute raw materials bookings and follow-ups.
Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of the
coordinator.
Understand the general / technical problems in the factory, customer requirements
and get buyer's approvals where ever possible.

Finance and Accounts (DGM)


Directly report to the Director.
Close co-ordination with Managing Director.
Responsible for execution funds and maintain relevant documentation.
Maintain salary sheets and follow up cash requirements and organize funds for
company needs.
Handle all kind of banking affairs.

Produce Management reports with regards to company finance General Manager


(Purchase & Inventory)
Report directly to Managing Director.
Co-ordinate with Merchandising Manager.
Responsible for business development / develop new supplier sources and cost
control.
Frequent market research and up date management and related
departments on the current trends in the market.
Generate innovation to the organization.
Follow up current customers and ongoing orders.
Co-operate with customers and make their requirements understand to the
subordinates and related departments.
Understand the general / technical problems in the factory; convince customers
and get customers approvals where ever is possible on company interest.
Find business for surplus goods.
Prepare and maintain management reports.
General Manager (HR & Compliance)
Directly reporting to Director.

Co-ordinate with the entire departmental in charges and all the workers in the
factory

Responsible to monitor,

o Factory timing o Discipline and cleanliness o Attendance, leave and holydays o


Security and maintenance of the factory o Transportation and its maintenance o
Wagers, over time pay, allowances and other payments. o Do necessary formalities
during new recruitment or terminations. Manager (IE & Planning)

Directly reporting to the Director.

Directly reporting to the MD Sir about the over all situation of the factory

Sample break down and SMV establish.

Discussion with GM (Production) about lost time and bottle neck.

Co-ordination with HR department about the workers recruitment. Senior


Merchandiser

Report directly to Manager Merchandising.

Maintain and process information received from buyers and buying offices and
process and transfers them between head office and factory.

Follow up on new order confirmations and book raw materials


accordingly.

Help to up date the production plan. Production Manager

Directly reporting to General Manager.

Responsible to GM, Operations.

Co-ordinate with Quality Manager, Cutting manager, Finishing & Store


Inventory Manager

Directly reporting to General Manager.


Responsible to Merchandising Manager.

Co-ordinate with production Co-coordinator.

Responsible to follow up production planning and all the raw material


requirements.

Maintain inventory / storing system / documentation and provide


information to prepare statistics

Stock controlling and keep management inform as and when required.

Quality Control In-charge


Reporting to Quality Manager

Responsible to Director Operations

Co-ordinate with production, knitting, linking, trimming, mending and finishing


In-Charges and Supervisors

Responsible to follow up instructions given by Quality Manager and Director


Operations.

Monitor the work done by Quality Checkers.

Make sure the quality is maintained at buyer's required standard and maintained
company quality system.

Maintain relevant paper work.

Human Resources &Welfare Officer

Reporting to General Manager


Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.

Responsible to monitor training, cleanliness, health and safety, meals, picnics,


welfare fund and all other welfare affairs
Compliance Officer
Reporting to HR & Welfare Officer

Responsible to General Manager

Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.

Responsible to monitor system management, health & safety and all other
compliance affairs.

HROfficer

Directly reporting to Administration Manager


Responsible to General Manager

Co-ordinate with the entire department in charges and all the workers in the
factory.

Responsible to monitor,

o Factory timing. o Discipline and cleanliness. o Attendance, leave and


holydays. o Security and maintenance of the factory. o Transportation and its
maintenance. o Wagers, over time pay, allowances and other payments. o Do
necessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations. Accounts Executive

Reporting to Finance & Accounts Manager.

Responsible to maintain all the books and paperwork with regards to company
accounts.

Prepare and maintain salary sheets.

Follow up day-to-day cash requirement and handled funds.

Prepare management reports.


Security In-charge
Reporting to Dept. General Manager

Responsible to monitor all the activities of security officers, conduct security


activities and make sure the total premises are completely safe and secured.

Should conduct regular security inspections in the premises both day and night

Maintain records of all incomings and out going goods, personal and vehicles.

Provide training to security staff. Security Guard

Reporting to Security In-charge.

Responsible to Security Manager.

Conduct security activities and make sure the total premise is completely safe and
secured.

Should be conduct regular security inspections in both day and night.

Maintain all security records. Time Keeper

Reporting to Administration Manager

Responsible to maintain the time record of all the employees.

Maintain timecard in order. Sewing Supervisor

Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge.

Responsible to Assistant Production Manager.

Co-ordinate with finishing Supervisor.

Responsible for all labeling.

Monitoring work of all the workers.

Maintain needle policy and safety.


Sewing Operators
Reporting to Sewing Supervisor.

Responsible to Finishing In-Charge.

Duties to do sewing with optimum quality.

Maintain cleanliness and safety. Ironing Supervisor

Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge

Responsible to Assistant Production Manager

Co-ordinate with Washing In-Charge

Responsible for all finishing activities

Motivate subordinates. Iron man

Reporting to Ironing Supervisor

Responsible to Finishing In-charge

Duties to do ironing with optimum quality.

Maintain cleanliness and safety. Packing Supervisor

Reporting to Finishing In-Charge

Responsible for Assistant Production Manager

Co-ordinate with Ironing Supervisor and Sewing Supervisor.

Responsible for best quality goods.

Monitoring work of all the workers.

Motivate subordinates.
Chapter Three:
Machineries
Garments Machineries

SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Brand /Origin


01 Straight Knife m/c 30 Mack- Japan
02 Band Knife m/c 02 OSHMAKK, Taiwan
03 Lay spreading m/c 04 Eastman
04 Sample print heating m/c 02 Speed cutter, Japan
05 Single Needle Lock Stitch 591 Brother , Japan
06 Over lock m/c 512 Pegasus, Japan
07 Flat Lock m/c 156 Pegasus, Japan
08 Feed of the arm 02 Japan
09 Snp button m/c 16 Prime
10 Button hole m/c 20 Brother, Japan
11 Button attaching m/c 17 Brother, Japan
12 Back tape m/c 22 Pegasus, Japan
13 One stop Zik m/c 22 Brother, Japan
14 Thread sucking m/c 20 OSHIMA
15 Thread Re-Con m/c 08 OSHIMA
16 Spot Removing m/c 16 OSHIMA
17 Metal Detector 07 Hasima
18 Iron Vacuum table 150 Hasima
19 Bar take M/c 32 Brother, Japan
20 Rib Cutter 30 OSHMAKK, Taiwan
21 Cylinder bed m/c 177 Brother, Japan
22 Lock stitch two needle 05 Brother, Japan
23 Iron m/c 150 OSHIMA
24 Hand tag m/c 60 Japan
25 Hand dry m/c 120 Brother, Japan
Knitting Machineries

Machine Type: Single Jersey


SL MC NO. DIA-GG-F BRAND TYPE

1 A-1 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Open Width

2 A-2 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Open Width

3 A-3 36"24-108 Masa Open Width

4 A-4 36"24-108 Masa Open Width

5 A-5 36"24-108 Masa Open Width

6 A-6 40"24-120 Masa Open Width

7 A-7 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Open Width

8 A-8 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Open Width

9 A-9 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Open Width

10 A-10 42"24-126 Jiunn Long Open Width

11 A-11 42"24-126 Jiunn Long Open Width

12 A-1 2 42"24-126 Masa Open Width

Machine Type:Single Jersey


1 B-1 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width

2 B-2 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width

3 B-3 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width

4 B-4 34"24-102 Masa Open Width

5 B-5 34"24-102 Masa Open Width

6 B-6 34"24-102 Masa Open Width

7 B-7 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Open Width

8 B-8 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Open Width

9 B-9 38"24-114 Masa Open Width

10 B-10 38"24-114 Masa Open Width

11 B-11 38"24-114 Masa Open Width


12 B-1 2 44"24-132 Masa Open Width
Machine Type: Single Jersey
SL MC NO. DIA-GG-F BRAND TYPE

1 D-1 26"24-104 King Knit Tube

2 D-2 26"24-104 Quan Tex Tube

3 D-3 26"24-78 Masa Tube

4 D-4 28"24-84 Masa Tube

5 D-5 28"24-84 Masa Tube

6 D-6 28"24-112 Jiunn Long Tube


7 D-7 30'24-72 Santec Tube
8 D-8 30"24-90 Masa Tube
9 D-9 30"20-90 Masa Tube
10 D-10 30"24-90 Masa Tube
11 D-11 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube
12 D-1 2 32"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube

Machine Type: Single Jersey


1 E-1 21"24-84 Quan Tex Tube

2 E-2 22"24-88 Quan Tex Tube

3 E-3 22"24-66 Masa Tube

4 E-4 22"24-66 Masa Tube


5 E-5 23"24-69 Masa Tube
6 E-6 23"24-69 Masa Tube
7 E-7 23"24-92 Quan Tex Tube
8 E-8 24"24-72 Masa Tube
9 E-9 24"24-96 Quan Tex Tube
10 E-10 24"24-96 Quan Tex Tube
11 E-11 25"24-100 Quan Tex Tube
12 E-12 25"24-100 Quan Tex Tube
FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Machine Type: Single Jersey
1 C-1 32"24-96 Jiunn Long Open Width

2 C-2 32"24-96 Jiunn Long Open Width

3 C-3 32"24-96 Masa Open Width

4 C-4 32"24-96 Masa Open Width

5 C-5 36"24-108 Masa Tube

6 C-6 36"24-108 Quan Tex Tube


7 C-7 36-24-72 Jiunn Long Jaquard
8 C-8 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Tube
9 C-9 38"24-114 Masa Tube
10 C-10 40"24-120 Masa Tube
11 C-11 40-24-120 Masa Tube
12 C-1 2 42"24-126 Masa Tube

Machine Type: Rib & Inter Lock (Double Jersey)


1 G-1 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube

2 G-2 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube

3 G-3 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube

4 G-4 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Tube


5 G-5 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Tube

6 G-6 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Tube


7 G-7 38"24/22/18-72 Jiunn Long Tube
8 G-8 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Tube
9 G-9 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Tube
10 G-10 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Tube
11 G-11 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Tube
12 G-12 40"24/22/18-84 Jiunn Long Tube
Machine Type: Rib Jersey (Double Jersey)
1 F-1 20"24-80 Jiunn Long Tube

2 F-2 30"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube


3 F-3 30"18-54 Terrot Tube

4 F-4 32"18-66 Masa Tube


5 F-5 32"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube
6 F-6 32" 18-72 Jiunn Long Tube
7 F-7 34"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

8 F-8 34"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

9 F-9 36"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

~10 F-10 36"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

11 F-11 38"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

12 F-1 2 40"18-84 Jiunn Long Tube

Machine Type: Rib & Inter Lock & S/J


1 H-1 42"24-252 Masa Tube

2 H-2 36"20/18-84 Jiunn Long Tube

3 H-3 38"16-72 Jiunn Long Tube


4 H-4 34"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

5 H-5 36"18/16-72 Jiunn Long Tube

6 H-6 36"22-72 Jiunn Long Tube


7 H-7 34"22-72 Jiunn Long Tube
8 H-8 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube
9 H-9 32"24-96 Jiunn Long Tube
10 H-10 36"16-66 Jiunn Long Tube
11 H-11 38"24-48 Fukuhara Tube
12 H-12 38"24-48 Fukuhara Tube

13 H-1 3 33-18/24-48 Fukuhara Tube


FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Machine Type: Single Jersey (Relaknit:4.0/3.2ll)
1 R-1 38"24-123 Mayer &Cie Tube
2 R-2 38"24-123 Mayer &Cie Tube
3 R-3 34"24-108 Mayer &Cie Tube
4 R-4 34"24-135 Mayer &Cie Tube
5 R-5 34"24-135 Mayer &Cie Tube
R-6 36"24-144 Mayer &Cie Tube
7 R-7 36"24-144 Mayer &Cie Tube
8 R-8 36"24-116 Mayer &Cie Tube

Machine Type: Plain S/J & Fleece


1 P-1 30"24-60 Sanda Tube
2 P-2 30"24-60 Sanda Tube
3 P-3 30"24-60 Sanda Tube
4 P-4 30"24-60 Sanda Tube
5 P-5 30"24-60 Sanda Tube
Total = 102 PCS
Laboratory Machineries
SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Origin Brand
01 Spectro Photo Meter 01 U.S.A Gretag M/C
02 Lab Dyeing M/C 01 Taiwan Irdyer Rapid
03 Lab Dyeing M/C 01 Hong Kong Tung Shing
04 Gray Scale 01 Japan Shinko
05 Light Box 01 England Verivide
06 Washing Machine 06 Sweden TMS-900
07 Tumbling Machine 01 Sweden TK-111S
08 Rubbing Machine 02 U.S.A
09 Auto dispensing Machine 01 Italy Lawer

Dyeing Machineries (Sample)


SI no. Name of the m/c No of No of Origin Brand Capacity
m/c Nozzle

01 Sample Machine 04 01 Taiwan Fong's 40kg

02 Sample Machine 04 01 Taiwan Fong's 40kg

03 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 160kg

04 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 120kg

05 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 120kg

06 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 25kg

07 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 30kg


08 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 30kg
FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD

Dyeing Machineries (Bulk Production)

SI Name of the m/c No of No Origin Brand Capacity


no. m/c of
Nozz
le
01 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 400kg
02 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 600kg
03 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 800kg
04 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 800kg
05 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 06 Taiwan Fong's 1200kg
06 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 06 Taiwan Fong's 1200kg
07 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 200kg
08 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 200kg
09 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 06 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
10 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 05 Taiwan Fong's 1000kg
11 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 05 Taiwan Fong's 1000kg
12 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 800kg
13 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
14 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
15 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
16 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
17 High Temperature & Pressure 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 400kg
18 High Temperature & Pressure 01 05 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
19 High Temperature & Pressure 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
20 High Temperature & Pressure 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
21 High Temperature & Pressure 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
22 High Temperature & Pressure 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
23 High Temperature & Pressure 01 3 Greece Sclavos 750kg
24 High Temperature & Pressure 02 4 Greece Sclavos 1000kg
25 High Temperature & Pressure 02 6 Greece Sclavos 1500kg

Dyeing Finishing Machineries


SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Brand Origin
01 Stenter 03 Bruckner Germany
02 Stenter 01 ACC Turkey
03 Stenter 01 Chengfu Taiwan
04 Open Compactor 03 Lafer Italy
05 Open Compactor 01 Ferraro Italy
06 Slating 02 Bianco Italy
07 Slating 02 EL Italy
08 Bag Sewing 03 MTG Italy
09 Singing 01 Osthoff Germany
10 Sueded M/C 01 Lafu (Has) Turkey
11 Combing 01 I kuang Taiwan
12 Shewing 01 I kuang Taiwan
13 Squeezer 02 AB Calator Sweden
14 Squeezer 01 AKAB Sweden
15 Squeezer 01 Kromson Turkey
16 Tube Compactor 01 Fab-Con U.S.A
17 Tube Compactor 01 Specttorimar Italy
18 Calender 01 Ferraro Italy
19 Dryer 01 AMS Turkey
20 Dryer 01 Obermaier France
21 Tube Compactor 01 Lafer (Has) Turkey
22 Dryer 01 Dilmiler Turkey

Boiler Machineries
SI no. Model No of m/c Origin Brand
01 DDHI 5.0-10 02 Germany Omnica
02 UL-S-1000 02 Germany Loos

Manpower
FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Total Manpower and Section Wise Manpower:

Administration Department:

SL.No Designation No of Manpower

01 General Manager (Operation) 01


02 General Manager (Admin, RH & Com) 01
03 Admin Officer 01
04 IT Manager 01
05 IT Officer 04
06 Welfare Officer 02
07 Software Engineer 02
08 Doctor 01
09 Nurse 01
10 Day Care Governess 02
11 Time Keeper 02
12 Painter 02

13 Peon 13
14 Cleaning Supervisor 08
15 Cleaner & Sweeper 240
16 Cook 07
17 Medical Assistant 02
Total = 310

Accounts Department

SL.No Designation No of Manpower


01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Sr. Accounts Officer (Tax) 01
03 Accounts Officer 09
04 Cash Officer 02
05 Asst. Manager 02
06 Junior Officer 02
Total = 17

IE & Planning Department


SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Manager 01
02 Asst. Manager 01
03 IE Officer 20
04 Work study officer 20
Total = 42
Merchandising Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Asst. General Manager 01
03 Manager 03
04 Sr. Merchandising 01
05 Merchandising 12
06 Asst. Merchandising 06
07 Trainee Merchandising 02

Total=1 26

Maintenance Department

SL.No Designation No of Manpower


01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Mechanical In-Charge 01
03 Mechanic 08
04 Electrician 03
05 Mechanics Helper 11
Total = 24

Sample Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Manager 01

02 Pattern Master 04

03 Sample Cutter 08

04 Sample Man 06
05 CAD Manager 01

06 CAD Designer 09

07 Q.C (Sewing) 06

08 Operator (Sewing) 27

Total = 61

Security Department

SL.No Designation No of Manpower

01 Deputy General Manager 01


02 Manager 01

03 Security Officer 02

04 Security Supervisor 04

05 Fire Man 08
06 Security Guard 87

07 Driver 20
Total = 123

Inventory Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 General Manager 01
02 Asst. Store Manager 03
03 Inventory Officer 02
04 Asst. Inventory Officer 05
05 Sr. Store Keeper 05
06 Store Officer 11
07 Store Keeper 21
08 Store Assistant 19
09 Tally Man Incharge 01
10 Tally Man 14
Total = 82

Cutting Department

SL.No Designation No of Manpower


01 Cutting Manager 01
02 Cutting In-charge 09
03 Cutting Supervisor 10
04 Cutting Man 65
05 Sticker Man 11
06 Cutting Inspection 96
07 Marker Man 10
08 Lay Man 230
09 Loader 51
Total = 483

Production Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 General Manager 01

02 Production Manager 05

03 Floor In-charge 15

04 Production Co-ordinator 02

05 Supervisor 48

06 Input Man 15

07 Operator 1056

08 Helper 864
09 Count Man 48

10 Quality Control Man 336

Total = 2390

Printing Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower

01 Printing Manager 01

02 In-charge 02

03 Color Muster 01

04 Invigilator 08

05 Supervisor 04

06 QC 21

07 Check Man 73

08 Printer 74

09 Bundle Count Man 24

10 Cleaner 22

11 Helper 428

12 Expose Man 2

13 Loader 11

Total = 671

Quality Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower

01 Deputy Manager 01

02 Manager 01

03 Asst. manager 01

04 In-charge 04

05 Quality Controller 26
06 Check Supervisor 39

Total = 72

Finishing Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower

01 Finishing Manager 01

02 Finishing In-charge 06

03 Finishing Supervisor 34

04 Iron Man 150

05 Folding man 120

06 Poly man 110

07 Packer man 40

08 Helper 60

Total = 527
Chapter Four:
Raw Materials

Yarn
The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of different
count areused. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.

Generally used yarn and their count:


Yarn Type Count

Cotton 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S

Polyester 75D, 100D

Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mlange 24S, 26S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Fabric:

Fakir Knitwears Ltd.is a knit composite textile industry. In the industry fabric is used as raw
material in dyeing-

Grey Fabrics:

Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:

Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
Polo pique
Single lacoste
Fleece
Interlock
Interlock with lycra
Rib
Rib with lycra
11 rib
22 rib
6X2 rib
Sugar rib
Regular drop needle
Irregular drop needle
Different types of collar & cuff

Chemicals:

List of Chemicals used in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. is as follows-

Basic Chemicals:

1. Acetic Acid

2. Hydrochloric Acid

3. Sulphuric Acid

4. Caustic soda

5. Formic acid

6. Bleaching powder

Detergent & Scouring agent:

1. SUNMORL CK-2
2. AssistB26f/SL2F(CK)
Levelling Agent

1. Neocrystal-200BF
2. LevagalDLP
Sequestering Agent

1. Neocristal 150
2. Neocristal-DMBF
3. NOBLEACH N(Multi-function)
Salt

1. Glauber Salt
2. Common Salt
Whitening Agent

1. Syno White BYB


2. Syno White 4BK
Softener

1. Sapamine FPG
2. Aleamine-CWS
3. Necipole PR 99
4. Gramazin-E2R
Fixing Agent

1. NeofixRP70
2. Neofix-R-250
3. Albafix ECO
Reducing Agent

1. Hydrose
2. Caustic
3. Visco Color
4. ViscoBleah
Bleaching Agent

1. (50%)H2O2
Enzyme
1. Retrocell PLX
2. BIO-C35
Stabilizer
1. Nobleach N(Multi-function)
2. Neorate PH 55 NF
3. Neorate PH 150
Anticreasing Agent

1. Texport GL 500
2. Texport D-600
3. AC-200
PH Controller
1. Acetic Acid

2. Formic Acid

3. Soda Ash

4. Caustic

5. Invatex AC

Per-oxide Killer

1.Croaks NF

Antifoaming agent

1. Albatex FFC

Dyes

Fakir Knitwars ltd uses the following dyes-

1.Sumifix

2.Boductive

3.Ciba

4.Livafix

5.Terafix

Remarks

As quality is the prime concern of the factory, qualitative raw materials are always
bought by the management of the factory. Besides, there is enough space to keep those
raw materials in the factory.
Chapter Five:
Knitting section
Process Flow chart of Knitting:
Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and Tension device.

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

Parts of knitting Machines:

Creel: Creel is used to place the cone of yarn.

Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn to make a fabric.

Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.

VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.

Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.

Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.

Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.

Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric

Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine
to feed the yarn at specific finger.
Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine

Design Development by using CAM:

The type of fabric to produce depends on the setting of the Cam of Knitting machine. The
different types of fabric can be produced by only changing the cam setting. The cam settings
to produce different fabric are given below:

Single jersey:

Only knit cams are used to produce single jersey fabric. So the setting would be-

K K K

K K K

K K K

Inter lock:

Inter lock fabric is produced by using knit and miss cam. So the setting would be-

K M K

M K M

Lacost:

Lacost uses knit and tuck cam like-

K K T K K

T K K K T

French terry:

The cam setting is as follows-

K M K M K M

K T K M K T

K M K T K M
Considered pointof Knitting:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to
production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to
consider. Those are as follows-

Finished G.S.M.
Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
Yarn count
Types of yarn (combed or carded)
Diameter of the fabric.
Stitch length
Color depth.

End products of circular knitting machine:

Single Jersey M/C:


a) S/J Plain
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Single pique
e) Double pique
f) Terry
Rib M/C:
a) 1*1 Rib fabric

b) 2*2 Rib fabric

c) Honeycomb

End product of Flat bed knitting machine:


a) Collar

b) Cuff
Production Calculation:
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL ( mm )

3527 .80 Yarn count

B. Production/shift in meter

Course / min .

Course / cm
RPM No. of Feeder 60 12 Efficiency

Course / cm 100

C. Fabric width in meter:

Total no. of wales

Wales / cm 100
Total no. of Needles used in knitting

Wales / cm 100

D. Needle calculation

For Circular knitting machine:


Diameter of the Machine X Gauge of the Machine X 3.14

For example: Diameter of the machine is 18 and Gauge of the machine is 24. Then the
number of Needles on the machine would be-

18 X 24 X 3.14 = 1356

For Flat Bed knitting machine:


Length of the Machine needle bed X Gauge of the Machine

For example: Length of the machine needle bed is 56 and Gauge of the machine is 14. Then
the number of Needles on the machine would be-

56 X 14 = 1568
Faults of Knitting:

1. Hole Mark
Causes:

Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.


During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and
density.
Badly knot or splicing.
Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:

Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as


uniform.
Use proper count of yarn.
Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Knot should be given properly.

2. Needle Mark
Causes:

When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the
fabrics.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker Mark
Causes:

When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new
loop as a result sinker mark comes.
If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:

Sinker should be changed.


4. Star
Causes:

Yarn tension variation during production.


Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:

Maintain same Yarn tension during production.


Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches
Causes:

Defective needle.
If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to
the needle hook.
Take-down mechanism too loose.
Insufficient yarn tension.
Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight & well.


Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stain
Causes:

When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make
a line.
Remedies:

Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.


Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain

Causes:

If any rust on the machine parts.


Remedies:
If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole
Causes:

Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:

Change the needle

9. Grease stain
Causes:

Improper greasing
Excess greasing
Remedies:

Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- out


Causes:

Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty
needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder
and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:

Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a
drop stitch.

11. Barre:

A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise)
Stripe.

Causes:

This fault comes from yarn fault.


If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in
carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:

We can use this fabric in white color.

12. Fly dust:


Causes:

In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from
yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or
attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:

Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
By cleaning the floor continuously.
By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

13. Yarn contamination

Causes:

If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after
finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:

By avoiding lot, count mixing.


Fault less spinning.

13. Yarn Faults:


Neps.
Slubs.
Yarn count variations.
Thick/Thin place in yarn.
Hairiness
Flat Knitting Machines Fault:
1. Holes:

Causes:

Needle Break,
High Tension on Tensioner,
Excess cotton with yarn on needle.

2. Missing Needle:

Causes:

Faulty Needle,
Faulty Cam setting.

3. Oil mark:

Causes:

Improper Oiling on Machine.


Inexperienced Operator

4. Loop Miss:

Causes:

Tension on take up roller,


Needle miss.
Chapter Six:
Batching section

Batch process flow chart :


Flow process chart of Batching Section of Fakir KnitwearsLtd.

Fabric Received

Inspection

Fabric Divided according to Diameter

Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation

Sent for Dyeing

Grey fabric inspection


The batch section of the Fakir KnitwearsLtd. inspects the following parameters of the
received fabric-

Knitting Hole
Oil Spot
Tara
Shade UP
Star Mark
Patta
Lack out

Batch Calculation:
= Batch Quantity (M/C Quantity) / Total Quantity X Diameter quantity

Equation for Rope Length

=Diameter Quantity (Weight of Fabric in a roll) X 39.37 X1000 / Finished GSM / Finished
open Diameter
Batch management:

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager.
Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

Machines in batch section :


No of Machine : 06
Machine Name : Air Turning Machine
Origin : KOREA

Remarks:
The batch section of the factory is well equipped but it lacks in a quality controller.

Chapter Seven:
Lab section

Lab dip:

Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory with or without help of DATA COLOR

Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the
dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task
before bulk production.
Objective of Lab dip

The main objectives in lab are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.


To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)

The responsibilities of the laboratory are:

Sample preparation according to buyer requirement


Different properties test (Wash fastness, Color fastness, rubbing fastness,
Perspiration Test, Pilling Test etc.)
Strength test of Dyestuff
Chlorine test, Peroxide test
Product Development etc.
Laboratory work sequence :
Sample received (Fabrics)

Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar

Sample Preparation

Run the test

Physical test Wet lab

Color Fastness to wash

Pilling Color Fastness to washing

Crocking

Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample

Report Making Test Test

Prepared the report prepared the report


Pass Fail

Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail

Need to test again Refinish


Lab Dyeing process follow up :
The laboratory dyeing process of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. is as follow:

Sample Received

Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory

If matched then sample prepared from that recipe

If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color

Recipe Prepared

Sample prepared according to recipe

Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared

If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer

Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production.

Sample Received:
Buyer sends a sample which is considered as standard in whole process. Buyer also
gives some requirements about the properties of the standard fabric. For example, Buyer
wants good wash fastness, light fastness, rubbing fastness, pilling formation etc. The lab
receives this standard to make this fabric according to buyer requirements.
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory:
The factory dyed a lot of fabric in its running years. It also stores a lot of sample in its
inventory. The standard is first checked with the samples kept in the inventory.
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe:
If the standard is matched with the sample of inventory then the next process becomes
easier. Because after matching the sample with standard previously maintained recipe is
followed. If the sample does not match with the standard then the process goes to data color.
If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color:
If the standard does not match with the samples of inventory, then the standard
percentage of color is found out from the data color machine.
Recipe Prepared:
According to the results of data color machine the recipe is prepared to get the desired
sample of that standard.
Sample prepared according to recipe:
Following the procedure the sample is prepared.
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared:
After getting the sample is compared with the standard. And several tests are done to
meet the buyer requirement.
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer:
Sample is then sent to the buyer for the final approval.
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production:
When buyer gives the final approval the fabric is sent to production floor for the bulk
production.
Properties test

Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry):

Procedure:
Firstly a sample of size (14 5) cm is taken at Wales & Course wise. The crocking cloth is
put on to the finger &is staged by finger clip & run 10 times in 10 seconds manually &
assesses the crocking cloth with gray scale.

The crocking cloth is placed on the water, it will suck some water and crocking cloth is then
squeezed. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the finger and stag with finger clip and run
10 times in 10 seconds manually. The crocking is then assessed cloth by gray scale for wet
rubbing. Wet and dry rubbing are checked according to buyers requirement.

Color fastness to washing. (ISO/05-CO6):


Procedure:
1. Size of specimen: Sample &multifibre at (10 2) cm then stitch.
2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled water
& cooled at 20C & measured PH (where necessary).
3. the program is run in the following way: -
Test no. TempC Liq.volume ml Time min. Steel balls Adjust pH

C2S 60C 50 30 25 10.51

4. The sample is rinsed twice with cold water.


5. At 60C by hanging or by flat iron pressing the dried but temperature should not less
more than 150C.
6.
Pilling test:
Procedure:

The fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm is cut & balanced mark should be 10cm by using template. Then
the fabric is sewn so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes.Then
four tubes are placed in a box & started 602 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer
requirement. Then the fabric is assessed by putting tested specimen on the cabinet &
compared with standard photographs.

Shrinkage &Spirality test:

Buyers requirements:

Template size: 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash).

Shrinkage: length wise--- 5%

Width wise----5%

Spirality: Left -------- 5%

Right -------- 5%

Procedure:

Firstly two ply of fabric is taken & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has
8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then 8
holes are marked by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template.

The fabric is sewn & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60C for 60minutes with water.
After that the sample is dried & then fabric is measured.

Calculation:

Shrinkage Test:
Lengthwise:After wash Before wash
= ----------------------------------100
Before wash
Width wise: After wash Before wash

= ----------------------------------100

Before wash

Spirality test:
Left side Right side
= 2 100 %
Length(wid th for H & M)

Dyestuff Strength test:


Dyestuff strength test is very important for any textile dyeing industry.

A dye comes to industry then a sample fabric is dyed first to make it a reference. When that
dye is used and finished from inventory, new dye is ordered. But it is not sure the dye that
reached newly, will make a fabric as much dyed as before. That is why after arriving of dye
to the factory it is used to make a sample. Then this newly made sample is checked in respect
of previously dyed sample. If the two samples match with each other, it is resulted that the
strength is okay. But if not match then the amount to be given (less or more) is determined.

Thus the strength of dyestuff is measured in this way.

Remarks:
The laboratory of the factory is well enough to make quality products. But more attention to
laboratory is required to make it more efficient. The informations that lacks about laboratory
in this report is just the result of the unavailability of time of the depart
Chapter Eight:
Dyeing section

Cellulose:

When all impurities have been removed from the natural cotton fiber, cellulose remains.
Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5) n. pure cellulose is a white substance with a specific
gravity of 1.5. It burns freely in air with a luminous smokeless flame. Cellulose is insoluble in water
and alkalis but dissolves in cold concentrated sulfuric acid. Like other carbohydrates, when heated
with concentrated sulfuric acid it swells up, forming a mass of carbon. It is also attack by hydrochloric
acid nitric acids.

When hydrolyzed with dilute acids an almost theoretical yield of glucose is obtained. This indicates
that cellulose is a long-chain polymer produced by linking together a large number of glucose units.
Starch and glycogen are also polymers of glucose but they have no fiber forming attributes.

From the foregoing it will be apparent that cellulose is a polymer of glucose, and it must contain a
large number of CH2OH and CHOH groups.

The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose, which consists of two glucose units. Cellobiose
is hydrolyzed by the enzyme emulsion, which it is known, will only break down links between beta
glucose molecules. cellobiose consists of two beta glucose molecules linked together at the 1:4 carbon
atoms.

The most important chemical grouping on the cotton polymer is the hydroxyl groups or -OH groups.
These are also present as methylol groups or CH2OH. Their polarity gives rise to hydrogen bonds
between the OH groups of adjacent cotton polymers. Van der Waals forces also occur but
compared with the hydrogen bonds, the Vander Waals forces are of little significance.
Chemical composition of raw cotton:

Component Main location Relative amount

Cellulose Secondary wall 86.8 %

Oil and Wax Cuticle 0.70 %

Pectins Primary cell wall 1.0 %

Carbohydrates Primary cell wall 0.50 %

Protein Lumen 1.2 %

Salts Lumen 1.0 %

Water Whole 6.8 %

Others 2.0 %

Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:

Sl. no Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers

01 Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon

02 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute

03 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk

04 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

05 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

06 Sulpher dyers Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

07 Reactive dyes Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.

08 Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate Rayon.

Theory of Reactive Dyeing:

Reactive dyes are colored compounds and the only class of dyes that form covalent
bonds between the dye molecules and the fibers. The dye contain reactive group which react
with the fiber and make covalent bond with the fibers in the alkaline condition and act as an
integral part of the fiber is called reactive dye. Reactive dyes may be used for coloration of
cellulose and protein fibers and this is the most important class of dyes for dyeing and
printing of cellulosic fiber.

Structural characteristics of Reactive Dye:

Characteristics structural features of reactive dyes are as follows ---

D B R - X

Where,

D = Dye part

B = Bridging group

R = Reactive group bearing part

X = Reactive group.

Dyeing mechanism is completed by three stages-

Exhaustion of dye in the presence of electrolyte

Fixation of dye under alkaline condition

Wash of the unfixed dye from material surface

Exhaustion:when the fabric is immersed in the dye liquor an electrolyte is added to


assist the exhaustion of dye. Here NaCl is used to neutralize the negative charge
formed on fabric surface & puts extra energy to penetrate dye molecules.

Fixation: fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with the
terminal -OH group of fiber& thus forming strong covalent bond with fiber.
Controlled by maintaining ph by adding alkali properly.

Wash off:as the dyeing is completed a good wash must be applied to remove extra
or unfixed dye from surface of fabric & for level dyeing it is important.

Reaction with Cellulose Fiber


Reactive dyes formed covalent bond with cellulosic fiber by Nuclueophilic
substitution and addition reaction. The reactions are as follows ----

Substitution reaction:

D R Cl + HO - Cell D R O Cell + HCl

Addition reaction:

D F CH2 = CH2 + HO Cell D F CH2 CH2 O Cell


Reaction with water:

The cold brand reactive dyes are highly reactive in nature. They react also with water
and get hydrolyzed. The reaction is as follows ----

D R Cl + HOH D R OH + HCl

The hydrolyzed dye is also colored substances and has very low substantivity for the
cellulosic fiber. So they are attached with fiber surface after dyeing. If they do not washed
away from the fiber surface the fastness property of the fiber must be very low.

Dyes: The molecules of the organic compounds called dyes are responsible for the color of
dyed and printed lest tile fabric materials. Dye molecules are colored became they are
selectively able to absorbed and reflect incident light. Dyes molecules contain at least one of
each of the radicals called chromophores and auxochromes.

Pretreatment:
Pretreatment is the preparation period of fabric fro dyeing. For getting proper fastness of
fabric and proper dyeing pretreatment is a mandatory process.

Demineralization:
It is a process of removing mineral materials from the water. It is done in water treatment
plant. Water from natural sources contains many mineral materials which may hamper the
dyeing process. If the mineral materials are present in water then it may lead to uneven shade
in dyeing. Besides it may also damage the fabric and the machine.

Scorning:The process to remove fats, oil, waxy substances and added the impurities by
certain percentage of alkali treatment and which increase the absorbing power of the textile
units, is called scouring.

Bleaching:The process by which the natural color of a fiber can be removed and make the
textile this pure white and bright is called Bleaching.

Wetting agent:The chemical which is used for quickly moisten or watering the textile
units is called wetting agent.
Detergent:Detergent are nothing but a chemical which is used for clearing the textile units
or to remove fats, oil and wash. It is know as surface active agent.

Labeling agent:The chemical which are used for dyeing just to give level shade or even
dyeing is called leveling agent.

Enzyme: It is one kind of biocatalyst. It is based on problem. It is soluble in water but


insoluble in acid and alkali.

Salt:Act ad erectility, helps to exhaust dye molecules to the fiber.

Exhaust:The absorption of dye moleules from the dye liquor by the fibers being dyed.

Electrolyte:A compound which is aqueous solution or in the mother state, inducts an


electric current and is simultaneously decomposed by it into inns compounds which
dissociate into inns and /or radicals in aqueous solution.

Hydrolysis:The chemical decomposition of a substance by the action of water, the water


itself being also decomposed. Acids and alkalis often catalyses hydrolysis. The destructive
effect of hydrolysis upon fiber polymers will then also result in the rupture of inter- polymer
forces of attraction.

Hydrophilic:Having a strong affinity for water, or moisture absorbent

Hydrophobic:Having an aversion to water, non-absorbent or water repellent.

Components:Upon which dyeing Process Depends:

(1) Sulostrate
(2) PH
(3) Dyeing Assistant
(4) Temperature
Dyeing AssistanceThese are added in dyeing bath for which dyeing affinity is increased
is called dyeing asst.

(1) Electrolyte
(2) Leveling agent
(3) Carriers
(4) Solvents

Factors to be considered for dye & dyeing process selection:

(1) Hue
(2) Shade
(3) Brightness
(4) Cost

Topping:The application of further colorant not necessarily of the same hue/class to a dyed
substance in order to adjust the lather to the denied final color is called topping.

Dyeing Process:

Process flow chart for 100% Cotton (White Color):

Fabric loading

Demineralization
(Wetting /Detergent +Antricreasing+Deminaralizing agent)
[Dosing time 5min temp 400C ]

Temp raised at 550C 20 min

Draining (10-min)

Deteront /wetting agent +Andricreasing agent + Caustic
[Dosing time 20 min temp-500Cmin (Run time]

Temp raised 700C
H2O2(50%) added [700Cmin]

Temp raised at 980C60 min

M/C Cooled (temp drop 800C

Brightening agent added
[Dosing time 30 min 800C min]

Temp raised 980C

Sample check

Drain wash

normal hot wash

PH control at 4.5 (acetic acid leveling agent)

enzyme wash (550C60 min)

0
Temp raised 80 10 min [enzyme killing]

after treatment with acid, leveling agent and softener

unload

Note:

(1) Enzyme wash happened after brightener for minimizing time.

(2) The required temp for enzyme wash in 550- 600C. At high temp (800-820C) the
enzyme destroyed or can ................ during the enzyme wash PH must be 4.5 cause in
alkaline condition enzyme wash can not get well.

(3) At high temperature caustic must be not use, otherwise create hates on fabric surface.

(4) Demineralization have done for remove water hardness and also remove grey fabric
hardness.

(5) Draining have not done directly at 800C to protect crease mark.
Process flow chart for100% Cotton (Black Color):

Fabric loading

0
Demineralization (60 C10) (cracking agent +Diminaralizing agent)

Temp raised 980C 20min
M/C cooled at 800C

Drain wash/ Rising 5min

Added acetic acid for PH control at 4.5

Enzyme wash
EnzymeDosing time 10 min temp550C

Run( 10 min)

PH Ckeck (6.9-7)
Leveling with No bleach N (Dosing 600C 10 min)

Salt dosing (dosing time 30 min 600C 5 min

color dosing (with no. bleach N) , Dosing time 30 min 600C 10 min

Caustic added (PH= 10.5) (Dosing time -30 min 600C 10 min )

Color steam (600C60 min)

Sample check

Drain wash, 60 min

Acetic acid, PH -4.5 300C 20 min

Normal wash

0
Ultram 350 (90 C20 min) (Unfixed dye remove)

Disusing 20 min

Softener (Dosing time= 10 min 400C 20 min)

Unload the fabric
Note:-

(1) This dyeing process for any deep color such as Navy, Red etc.
(2) Black or any deep color dyeing there is no need scouring & bleaching.

(3) No bleach N or leveling agent mixed with dyes for better dye figure or get best
solution of dye figure and happened dye mixing tem not in dye bath.

(4) It the caustic is not use in this process them the common salt and soda ratio will be
80/20 where 20 means amount of soda.

Process flow chart S/J Lycra (Cotton 65%+Polyester 35%) For Blue
Color:

Fabric load

Demineralization (Liqonr1:8{500C1D}

Caustic {Dosing time = 1D min} 500C 10 min

Temp raised 700C

H2O2 (50 %) added {d,T= 1D min 700C 10 min
0


Temp raised 980C10min

Dye bath cool, 800C

Sample check

Drain wash

Hot rinsing

Acid, added, PH- 4.5

Enzyme wash

{dosing 55010min}

0
Temp raised 80 C10 min ,ThenDraining

0
Butter solution added {60 C10 min} (PH Check at 4.5)

Dispersing /leveling agent with sequestering. (600C10 min)

Temp raised 800Cmin

20 grace (20c/ min) temp raised at 1300C 40 min

20 grade temp drop at 800C check

Drainin, 30 min

Normal wash with only water (800C 10 min)Added acetic acid 1%

Cotton dyeing(Previous Dyeing Process)

Unload

Note:-

(1) Polyester fiber or fabric can be dyeing with disperse dye and applied at hight
temperature is, 1300 -1400C.

(2) Disperse dyes have as conic groups and are insoluble in water.

(3) With the help of a dispersing agent dyes can be dispersed in the dye bath.

(4) Reduction clearing is done in case of medium and deep shade only to improve the
wash fastness.

(5) This high temperature process in non loxic and hygienic process.
(6) At high temp like 1300C acid getting weaker so for getting PH 4.5 Butter solution is used in
polyester dyeing process and it is strong acidic along with dispersing agent.

Some special note:-

(1) Polyester is a man made, synthetic polyester, polyester filament or staple fiber . The
most common polyester apparel filament or fiber is usually composed of polyester
lerephthalate polyester.

Process Flow chart for Torques combination (100% Cotton):

Fabric loading

Demineralization {Dosing time= 15 min 400C5min}

0
Temp raised at 50 C 20 then Draining

Detergent {Dosing time= 5 min 500C5}
+multifunction agent (Nobleach N) SDT=5 500C5

Caustic { Dosing time= 15min 500C5 min

Temp raised at 700C

Added H2O2 (50%) { Dosing time= 10 min 700C5}

Temp raised at 980Cmin

Sample check

Draining & wash (cold wash)

0
cat (80 C 20 min)
(H2O2 Killer)
Draining wash

Acetic acid {Dosing time 400C 5 min}

enzyme wash {550C 60min}


Run 60020min

after PH Check added leveling agent
(anticilConz +Sarabid MIP) {Dosing time=10} 600C10}

Color dosing {Dosing time = 30min 600C10 min

Temp raised at 750C 20 grade

Salt added {Dosing time 20 min 750C10 min}

Temp dropped at 600C

Sample check

Soda ash added {Dosing time= 30 min 600C10

Color steam {600C40min}
(Shade check)

Temp raised at 800C 20 min

Drain wash

Hot wash (Ultraw 350/RBR)

Unload fabric
Process flow chart for R(SPL) 100% Cotton :-

Fabric load

Wetting agent multi function agent (50 0C 15)

Caustic +H2O2{D.T= 10 500C}
(bleaching) (Sousing)

Tem raised 980C60

Drain wash

normal hot 90C 20

Naturalization

Acetic acid (90C 20)

Drain wash

Check PH- 6.8

Leveling with (Dosing time=- 10 330C10

Enzyme dosing (330C10)

Salt added {D,T =30 (330C10) }

Dyes dosing {D,T =30 (330C10) }

Soda added {1 step 20% 2 step 80% }(D,T=10 min) (R.J =5 min)
st nd


Temp raised 550C5

color steam 550C30 min

Drain Wash

Soaping 1%

(800C20medium shade 90020dark shade steam 10

Neutralization for 20 min with acetic acid

Drain wahs

0.5% Ck for Hot wash
(60 C 20 Medium shade 80010 dark shade) steam 10
0


Drain wash

Check PH, 5.2

Softening with CWS {D,T =10 400C 20}

Unload

Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:

Uneven dyeing:
Causes:

Uneven Pretreatment
Improper addition of color
Improper addition of chemical
Using dyes of high fixation properties
Less control of dyeing machine
Less circulation time

Remedies:

By ensuring even pretreatment


By proper addition of color and chemicals
Correct circulation time
By controlling the dyeing machine properly
Batch to batch Shade variation
Causes:

Using improper dyes and chemicals


Incorrect pretreatment procedure
Batch to batch weight variation of fabric
Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation)
Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals

Remedies:

By using standard dyes and chemicals


By correcting the pretreatment procedure
By maintaining batch to batch weight variation
By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals
By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals
By following different dyeing parameter.

Dark colored spots:


Causes:

Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing


Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade
Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath
Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment

Remedies:

By ensuring proper dyeing condition


By selecting proper dyestuff
By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing
By ensuring proper after treatment
Patchy dyeing:

Causes:

Due to hardness of water


Due to faulty color addition
Due to faulty injection of alkali
Due to improper salt addition
Due to improper PH of solution

Remedies:

By using proper sequestering agent


By correcting the color addition
By correcting the salt addition
By proper injection of alkali
By maintaining the PH level of the solution

Crease mark:
Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope


Due to high speed of machine running
Unequal pump pressure and reel speed

Remedies:

By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed.


By controlling the speed of the machine.
Correct opening of the fabric rope.

Roll to roll variation:

Causes:

Poor migration property of dye.


Hardness of water.
Improper dyes solubility.
Faulty machine speed.

Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals
Proper machine speed.
Using soft waste.

Remarks
The dyeing process of Cotton Club (BD) ltd. is very much satisfactory. Cotton Club only
cares for quality. It is heard from the management of the company, after establishing the
factory till now, a single order is not cancelled. Thats why it is sure that the company is well
enough to produce quality fabric.

Chapter Nine:
Finishing section

Introduction of Finishing:

Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such a way that the product has the
desired properties required for its intended useand therefore has great market value. The
desired properties may include the fabric dimensions and their stability, its weight, drape,
appearance, softness and handle, as well as any required functional properties such as
resistance to creasing, flame, water, oil, dirt or bacteria. Textile finishing is therefore an
extremely diverse field involving an extensive range of chemicals.

The degree of permanency of a particular finish for a fabric depends on its intended use. The
chemicals used may weigh the fabric to make it easy to slide and handle, or allow smooth
penetration of a sewing needle to minimize needle breakage.

Anyone involved in textile coloration must be aware of the influence of preparation process
on the dyeing behavior of the fabrics as well as the finishing chemicals on the final color of
the goods and on their color fastness properties. Without this knowledge, nobody can ensure
the ultimate color and its fastness properties

.The techniques of finishing depend on the following:

Nature of the fabric,


i.e. chemical composition, state, weave etc. this determines the appearance,
i.e. transparency, luster, fullness, weight, whiteness etc.

After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular
form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form.
The tubular and open finishing sequences of Fakir KnitwearsLTD .Bangladesh Ltd are given
bellow
Flow Chart of finishing for tube fabric:

Dyed Fabric

Hydro extractor Tube Squeezer

Tube Dryer

Tube Compactor

Final Inspection

Delivery to Garments
Flow Chart of finishing for Open Width fabric:

Dyed Fabric

Open Squeezer

Stenter

Tumble dryer Ultra-soft

Compactor

Final Inspection

Delivery to Garments

Objective of finishing:

Improving the appearance Luster, whiteness, etc


Improving the feel,this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,
suppleness, fullness, etc.
Wearing qualities, none soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.

Special properties required for particular uses water proofing,flame proofing, etc.

Covering of the faults in the original cloth.


Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:

2) Mechanical finishing:

Finishing effects:

Easy - care
Crease recovery.
Dimensional stability.
Good abrasion resistance.
Improved tear strength.
Good sew ability
Soft or stiff handle.
Shine or luster

Observation of Different Finishing M/C:

Squeezer or De-Watering M/C

After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for dc-watering.
This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is the
main function of the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor of
the fabric quality.
Squeezer:-
Turntable (Basket)

Detwister

Ring Guide Speeder

Feed R/R

Dancing R/r

Water Pander

Ballon former

Extracting Squeezer

Dancin roller

Softener padder

Ballon Former

Padding squeezer

Main squeezer

Conveyors Blanket

Paliter

Delivery basket

Important parts
Twist detector
Expander
Padder
The basic function of the squeezing m/c:
To remove the water from the fabric.
To control the width of the fabric.
To control the length of the fabric.
To control the spirality of the fabric.
To control the over feeding system.
To increase the softness of the fabric.
To remove the crease mark of the fabric.

Controlling points:
Diameter setting must be accurate.

Excess padder pressure may cause fabric damage. Padder pressure depends on
fabric construction.

Speed must be optimum.

Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.

Overfeed.

Dryer
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.

Important Parts:
o Conveyor net
o Chamber
o Burner
o Exhaust air fan
o Over feed roller
o Filter net
o Fan
o Nozzle

The basic function of the dryer:

To dry the fabric.


To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)
To control the GSM of the fabric.

Controlling Points
o Overfeed (%): It depends on fabric structure
o Temperature: It depends on color.
o Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the
speed.

Compactor:-
Basket

Spindle R/r

Centering R/r

Under feed R/r

Over feed R/r

Tension control R/r

Bowing Control R/r

Brush R/r

Endless Clip /Pin

Steam box

Heated Conveyor Blanket

Coaling Fan

Take-Up-r/r

Plaiter

Delivering Basket

TUBE COMPACTOR

Important parts

Overfeed roller
Expander
Blanket
Steam sprayers
Cylinder
Teflon covers

The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine


To control the GSM. (Increase&decrease).

To control the dia.

To control the shrinkage. (Increase&decrease).

Controlling Points
a. Temperature : It depends on construction and composition &color of the fabric.

b. Speed : It depends on temperature and fabric construction.

c. Blanket Pressure: Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.

d. Over feed : Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over feed
leads to the formation of crease mark.
Observation of tube compacter setting for different fabric

Fabric

Single jersey 1 x 1 Rib Collar, Cuff

parameter

Compector 30 30 N/A

Overfeed 5 12 N/A

Padder pressure 30 bar 30 bar 18 bar

Speed 18 m/min 18 m/ min 15 m/min

Temperature 100oC 100oC 100oC

OPEN COMPACTOR

Important parts
Over-feed roller

Blanket

Steam sprayers

Cylinder

Tell on covers
The basic functions of the Open compactor machine
To control the GSM. (Increase& decrease).

To control the dia.

To control the shrinkage. (Increase& decrease).

Controlling Points

a.Temperature :It depends on construction and composition & color of the


fabric.

b. Speed : It depends on temperature and fabric construction.

c. Blanket Pressure : Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.

d. Over feed :Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over
feed leads to the formation of crease mark.

Observation ofopen compactor setting for different fabric :

Fabric

Single jersey CVC S/J L Rib P.K. F/T

parameter

Required Dia 88 92 80 104 80

Actual Dia 90 94 84 108 84

Finished Dia 89 93 82 106 82

Required GSM 160 180 240 200 240

Actual GSM 150 170 210 190 230

Finished GSM 155 175 220 200 240


Overfeed 12 12 10 12 10

Temperature 80oC 80oC 80oC 80oC 80oC

Slitting Machine
Slitter:

Basket (M/C)


J. Box (Padder)


Retested


SlitteringRevice (Shape &Knife)


Spindle R/r


Cantering R/r


Spindle R/r


Squeezer


Take-up-roller


Pleiter


Delivery Basket

Important parts
Twist detector

Cutting knife/device

Padder

Main Function of Slitting m/c


To open the tube forms of fabric
To squeeze the fabric and remove the extra water in the fabric.

Controlling Points

Pressure: The padder pressure should be according to requirement.

Speed-The speed should be optimum (30-80 m/min)


Stenter Machine

Stenter:-

Basket

Spindle R/r

Centering R/r

Spindle R/r

Water Padder

Squeezer (1) (4 PS1)

Dancing R/r

Spindle R/r
SofternerPadder

Squeezer-2 (3PSI)

Dancing R/r

Bowing control R/r

Under feed R/r

Over feed R/r

Brush wheel

Endless Pin Chain

Steam BOx

Burner Chemicals

Cooling Fan

Take-up R/r

Planter

Delivering Basket

() Heat flow of Burner


Gas fire

Blower fan

Nuzzle

Fabric

Important parts
Burner
Exhaust air fan (4 )
Suction fan (8 )
Overfeed roller
Nozzle
Chain arrangement

The basic functions of the stenter machine


To control width.

To control GSM.

To control shrinkage.

To control spirality.

Drying of fabric.

To remove edge curl of the fabric

To remove the crease mark of the fabric

To remove the hardness of the fabric


To increase the better shade properties

To give belter finishing result of the fabric

Controlling Points

a. Temperature : It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric.


For

S/J the temp is 150C and 170C for stripe fabrics.

b. Over feed : Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.

c. Width setting : Higher width setting reduces the GSM.

d. Speed :It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric.

Observation of stenter setting for different fabric

Fabric

Single jersey L Rib P.K. F/T

parameter

Required Dia 88 80 54 80

Actual Dia 90.5 88 67 84

Required GSM 160 240 210 240

Actual GSM 148 218 185 232

Temperature 170oC 170oC 170oC 170oC

Overfeed 60% 45% 60% 40%

Machine speed 20 18 18 16

Dia setting 2310 mm 2400 mm 1720 mm 2150 mm

Fabric Inspection :
The finished fabric may have different kinds of faults. This may occur during Knitting,
dyeing or finishing. If the fabric delivered then the quality of the fabric may not be good and
the buyer will reject the finished garments. For this reason careful inspection of this finished
fabric is so important. In finished fabric the following faults are generally found:

Fabric inspection report:

Here, 4- point system is used for inspecting goods. Spining knitting and processing
faults are inspected and enlisted here, commons fauls that are found here are yarn,
cont............... slub, neps hole, needle mark, niuker mark lyera miss/out, oil stain , crease
mark, softener mark, color spot mark, Bowing mark etc.

() 4 Point system:
Fault size Points

0-3 1

>3 -62

>6 -93

>94
Hole 4

Acceptance

Up to 40 Points =A

41-60 Points =B
61-80 Points =C
80 above = Rejected

Calculation:

Roll length (YD) = Kg/ Roll 155036

PTS/100 lender YDS=


Total Po int s
100
actual width
Roll length ( yd )
36

Here, PTS= Total fault (%).

Shrinkage test report

This report is prepared according to buyer name order no. It can be done both for
finished fabric /T-shirts. Amount of shrinkage is expressed both in percentage (%) and in can.

Dyeing finishing Quality Report

This report contain information about roll no, M/C dia Required dia, Finished dia,
Finished GSM, Shrinkage (Length &widith wise) etc.

GSM Board

GSM of finished fabrics from different rolls of a Batch is around here with sample.
GSM of 50% acceptable from required.
Chapter Ten:
Quality Assurance System

Quality Assurance System

The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the
material; in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
The focus of the quality policy of Fakir Knitwear Ltd has been to provide products at a
price and service advantage through direct response mechanism. In order to sustain the
investments in the key technology area concerning our business, Fakir Knitwear have made
significant investment testing and quality assurance equipment from the best in the world in
each of our production bases and also ensured a Company-wide standardization discipline
through implementation of OEKO-TEX & ISO 9001:2000. These are reinforced periodically
through personal interactions between their filed representatives and consumer of their
products. Fakir Knitwear Ltd advance management team along with well-trained Quality
Assurance team ensures the best quality of products to meet the international standard.
The quality team follows some standardized international rules which are as
follows:

Fabric Inspection : 4 Points system (for Dyeing)


Sewing In process : Traffic light system
Factory Garment Quality AQL : 2.5 AQL
Line in Process : 7 Pcs system
Needle detection report : 9 point system
Quality check station point Light : 1000 Lucks

Moreover the quality team creates various types of report for maintaining the best quality.
They always create GSM check report, Light box system report. The process of the quality
teams are:
Pattern test
Trial Inspection
In line Process
Pre-final process
Final Process
Fakir Knitwears Ltd is the only factory in Bangladesh that got the nomination from the world
renowned buyer H&Ms skip process. The In house quality team maintains the quality and
inspection of the H&Ms product and finishes the final inspection. They have also a GPQ
team to ensure the work process of quality team. This is for why they always maintaining the
best quality for their friends (buyers) products.

Quality Control:
Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to control of
the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products. It is concerned
not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but also concerned with
the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in quality. In order to
control quality one must know about the consumers expectations.
Quality assurance:
Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary to
provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements for
quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform
quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing

Quality Control Flow Chart:

Yarn receiving

Sample Knitting

Batching

Dyeing (Check shade & Faults of dyeing)

Dewatering & Untwisting

Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality and


GSM)

Compacting

Final inspection

If sample OK go for bulk production


Quality Management system:
Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-
Quality
Control

On-Line

Off-Line

Online quality control:


Online quality control comprises with the raw material control, process control & finish
fabric inspection.

Raw material control:


As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurance department
must ensure that the best qualities of raw material (with economical consideration) are used
in
production.
The Yarn should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity.
The yarn & Lycra should be compatible with each other.
The fabric must be with out faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as
per requirement of the subsequent process.

Process control:
The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary
parameters.
During knitting, samples are taken and G.S.M checks with the reference
samples.
If not properly reset the machine parameter.
Sample is collected after fixation & matched.
During finishing, temperature, speed, padder pressure, overfeed should be
controlled as per requirement.
GSM, width, spirality, shrinkage (both length & width) should be
maintaining as per buyer requirement.
Finish fabric inspection:

Purpose:
To ensure that only an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments and
proper quantity of shipment is received from the supplier.
Scope:
All produced and incoming fabrics of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
Procedure:
Store in charge will check the received fabric with the reported length,
color and type of fabric with the stated shipment document quantity and
the actual order quantity.
The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regarding
fabric type, color and length will be notified to the Factory
Manager/Manager (Dyeing & Finishing).
For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection.

1. Body & rib inspection:


All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time as require. The fabric are
spread over the milky white acrylic inspection board ensures high transparency and even
reflection of light. Then by the inspection machine fabrics are inspected visually at a
standard speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall
out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubsetc are recorded in inspection
report to classify the fabric based on the four points system.

2. Collar & cuff inspection:


Collar & cuff are inspected visually under the light box. For any major or minor fault in
collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round
problem etc are properly counted and recorded.
Quality inspector (fabric) shall check 100% of receive fabric for quality. He will identify
any defect, hole or stain in the fabric and make calculation given bellow-
Scope of Quality control and testing:
The scope of quality control testing in FKL is little good. It has the following ability for
quality control & testing,

- Fabric inspection by 4-point system.

- GSM & Shrinkage test.

- Wash fastness test.

- Rubbing fastness test.

- Color difference check by data base.

- PH test.

- Pilling and snagging test.

Defects found in the final inspection:


Oil mark/Spot Crease mark Shade dull/bright Color spot
Shrinkage Stripe Bowing/Skewing Uneven shade
Running shadeSticky mark Blake tripe problem Softener spot
Shade not OK (Occurred by buyers representative) Roll to rllo shade
variation

On-Line Tests:

For Pretreatment For dyeing


PH test Shade matching check
Absorbency test PH check
Fabric width measure Wash fastness Check
Whiteness test Machine checking
Water quality test
Off- line Quality Control:

FKL have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used and processed
materials. There are two types of materials are tested in GKL laboratory for the purpose of
quality control. This are

A. Fabric testing.
B. Raw materials testing.
A. Fabric testing:
All the Off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:
1. Physical Tests.
2. Chemical Tests.

Physical tests:
Fabric inspection by 4-point system.
G.S.M test.
Width of the fabric measure.
Rubbing test.
Pilling and Snagging test.
Shrinkage test
Twisting test
Chemical tests:
Color fastness to water.
Color fastness to wash.
Color fastness to perspiration.
Oxidative test damage.
Saliva test.
B. Raw material testing:
Yarn count test.
Yarn strength test.
Yarn TPI test.
Lycra count test.
List of Equipments:

Sl. No. Machine Name Model Serial Manufacturer Built Year Origin
No. No.

01 Auto Pill C 1401 145331 Mec Engineers 2005 India


Ltd.

02 PH meter 6173 PH JC 00385 Jenco Japan

03 Sample Knitting STN 5 E 290 GeengTyan 1993 Taiwan


Machine Enterprise Co.
Ltd.

04 Auto Burst 28 C 0601 145340 MecEngineers 2005 India


Ltd.

05 Mec Sun Fast C 1399 145329 Mec Engineers 2005 India


Ltd.

06 Unistrength 250 C 1450 14939 Mec Engineers 2005 India


Ltd.

07 Crock meter James H. Heal England


& Co. Ltd.

08 Count Teste AEN 1433 OricineBrustio 2005 Italy


Ltd.

09 Sample Dryer DO-452 Precision Oven


Ltd.

10 Digioven C1301 145324 Mec Engineers 2005 India


Ltd.

11 Washcator FOM Electrolux


71CLS

12 Unistretch C 1451 14940 Mec Engineers 2005 India


Ltd.
Color Fastness:-
The resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer its
colorant to adjacent material or both as a result of exposure of the material to any
environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing , storage or use of the
material. Color fastness types:
Wash fastness to hot water as per ISO method
Wash fastness to cool water as per ISO method
Rubbing fastness (dry & wet)
Light fastness
Perspiration fastness
Dry cleaning fastness
Chlorinated or sea water fastness

Factors affecting color fastness:


Dye size or molecular structure of a dye
Types of bonding (i.e., ionic , co-valent, H-bond etc.)
Amount of dye present in fibre
Chemical nature of fibre or compatibility of dye with fibre
Presence of other chemicals like binder
The actual condition prevailing during exposure and after treatment

Reasons of color loss:


Due to decomposition of dye molecules
Due to removal of external media
Due to reaction of dye molecules with acid, alkali, or perspiration
Due to friction with other surface
Color fastness and other test result:
Different types of fastness standard are given below:

Sl. No. Name of the fastness Methods


ISO AATCC
01 Color fastness to washing 105 CO1-C06 61
02 Color fastness to light 105 BO2 16 E
03 Color fastness to perspiration 105 EO4 15

04 Color fastness to rubbing 105 * 12 8


05 Color fastness to hot pressing 105 * 11 133

06 Color fastness to cool water 105 EO1 107

07 Color fastness to sea water 105 EO2 106


08 Color fastness to chlorinated water 105 EO3 105

09 Color fastness to dry cleaning 105 DO1 132

Measurement direction:

Buyer Name Direction


H&M Width Wise
Other buyers (Tema, Pennyes, Primark) Length Wise

Fig: Bursting Strength Tester Fig: Pilling Resistance Tester


Rubbing fastness (ISO 105 X12):

Sample size : 20cm5cm


Crock fabric : 5cm5cm
No. of rotation : 10
Time : 10 sec
Load : 9N5%

Assessment:

Rating Remark
5 Excellent
4-5 Good
4 Good
Grey scale value for 3-4 Average
staining 3 Average
2-3 Average
2 Poor
1 Very poor

Washing fastness (ISO 105 CO1-CO6):

Sample size : 10cm4cm


Adjacent fabric : 5cm4cm
Temperature : 40C
Time : 45 min
Assessment:

Rating Remark
5 Excellent
4-5 Good
4 Good
Grey scale value for 3-4 Average
change value & 3 Average
staining 2-3 Average
2 Poor
1 Very poor

Dimensional stability:

Sample size : 10cm10cm


Temperature : 45C
Time : 30 min

Accepted range of shrinkage/extension is 5%

Grey scale for assessing change in shade:

EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211


This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of change in shade caused to a dyed Textile
fabric / yarn in color fastness tests. For example, the change of shade of wool and cotton
fabrics in the wash fastness, perspiration fastness etc. The scale consists of nine pairs of gray
color chips each representing a visual difference and contrast.
The fastness rating goes step-wise from:
Note 5 = no visual change (best rating) to Note 1 = a large visual change (worst rating).

The gray scale has the 9 possible values:


5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, 1.

It is now quite common to measure the Grey Scale change in color instrumentally. This is
made using a suitable reflectance spectrophotometer according to the test method
procedure, EN ISO 105-A05.
Grey scale for assessing staining:

EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211

This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of staining caused by a dyed Textile / yarn in
color fastness tests. For example, the staining of wool and cotton fabrics in the wash fastness,
perspiration fastness, etc.
The scale consists of nine pairs of gray color chips each representing a visual difference and
contrast.

The fastness rating goes step-wise from:


Note 5 = no visual change (best rating) to Note 1 = a large visual change (worst rating).

The grey scale has the 9 possible values:


5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, 1.
It is now quite common to measure the Grey Scale for assessing staining instrumentally. This
is made using a suitable reflectance spectrophotometer according to the test method
procedure, EN ISO 105-A04.

Chapter Eleven
Garment Section

Sample Section
Responsibilities:

Overall management of developing appropriate sample garments as per buyer's


requirement.
Conduct Fit & Pattern evaluation.
Make basic block pattern.
Ensure production as per planning and also ensure target of production with
standard of quality.
Coordinate merchandising team, procurement team, garments manufacturing team
for smooth production.
Ensure effective workforce management of the sample division for smooth
operation of the factory.
Coordinating all fabric + trims which are required for sampling purpose
Coordinating print, embroidery, wash for sampling.
Checking all the technical aspects of samples before releasing to customer.
Checking all the aesthetic aspects of samples before releasing to customer
Checking the quantity requirement of each sample.
Checking the necessary paper work of reach sample.
Follow up the buyer reg. each sample comments.
Usages Machineries:
In the sample making section they use all types of machines as in Garments section. These
arc

Set squares for making basic block.

Mack Km cutting machine

Speed- 3000-3600

Volts-220 V

Current- 3.3/2.6 amp

- Cycle-50/60

Sewing machine

1 -Needle Lockstitch (auto thread trimmer)

1-Needle Chain. Stitch, Flatbed

2-Necdle Lockstitch

2-Nccdlc Chain Stitch, Flatbed

4-Thread Over Lock

-Bartack Machine (Computerized)

-Button Hole Machine

-Button Sewing Machine

-Blind Stitch (Over lock) etc.

Steam ironing
Machine Brand:
1. BROTHER (Japan)

2. Pl-GASUS (Japan)

They make three types of sample. Such as

1.Quotation sample:
At first they make a sample of medium size as per buyer requirements is called quotation
sample. If the sample is not ok they make another sample called revised quotation sample.

2.Size set sample:

If the quotation sample is ok then they make the samples of all size which are call size set
sample. If it is not ok the make revised size set sample.

3.Production sample:
Finally they make the sample for production called production sample
Working procedure:

The working procedure of sample making department is as follows

At first they collect the measurement chart from merchandizing dept.



Make basic block pattern by hand or by CAD (middle size only)

Cut the fabric according to the pattern (for 2-3 sample)

Then the dept. Head or coordinator provide the cutting sample to the sewing operator
and provide the measurement sheet by buyer.

Sew a sample according to buyer requirements


Inspect the sample after finishing.

The sample is then provided to merchandizing dept.

If it is ok they are called to make size set sample or if it is not ok they have to make
revised quotation sample

They make grading pattern by the CAD department

Make sample of all size as the same procedure and provide to merchandizing
department. If it is ok they make production samples or not they have to make revised
size set samples.
CAD (Computer Aided Design) Section

Responsibilities:
Make basic pallern and production pattern.

Make more efficient marker identifying each part of the Garments,

Coordinate merchandising team, procurement team, sample section, garments

manufacturing team for smooth production.

Make fabric consumption with allowance %, shrinkage% and total process loss %.

Identify fabric diameter for each si/e of Garments.

Make easy the fabric cutting.

Usage equipments:
1. Misfires software for pattern making.

2. Dimarien software for marker making.

3. Lectra printer for marker print.


Working procedure:

MARCHANDISING

Art work Spread sheet from Merchandiser



Making Pattern sewing. Allowance as per Spread Sheet+ Art Work for a large size
sample

Make an efficient marker As per Color Art Work

Calculate required fabric consumption with shrinkage% and process loss%

Marker Delivery to Concern Merchandiser for approval with consumption and fabric
diameter

Received buyer approval Master Pattern '%



Completion of Grading as per spread sheet sample

Grading pattern with marker send to cutting section for Trial cat / Size set

Pattern update after getting Report as per color wise



Delivery to cutting production
Considerable factor:
1.Sewing allowance

All 95/5% cotton single jersey fabric 3cm for body length & 2cm for biceps
two side.

All 100% cotton single jersey fabric 3cm for body length & 2cm for biceps
two side.

2.Shrinkage percentage

All 95/5% cotton single jersey 5%x3c shrinkage is added.

All 95/5% cotton rib fabric 3% 2% shrinkage is added.

All 100% cotton single jersey 3%X2% shrinkage is added.

All 100% cotton rib no shrinkage is added.

All lycra fabrics 5% shrinkage is added.

3.Process loss

For making actual fabric consumption the CAD section consider following process losses.

1. Temaconsumption lorall type of fabrics with bio finish

Color Cut Cut panel Sewing Print/Em Process Total


fabrics losses losses losses
losses b losses
losses

White 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%

Light color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%


Actual
Consumpt Medium color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 10 20%
ion
Dark color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 8% 1 8%

Black 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 6% 16%

Grey mel. 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 5% 15%


II. H&M consumption for all type of fabrics with bio finish

Color Cut Son in Print/Em b Process Total losses


losses
fabrics losses losses
losses

While 3% 3% 1+1% 12% 25%

Light color 3% 3% 1+1% 12% 20%

Medium color 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 28%

Dark color 3% 3% 1+1% 8% 16%


Actual
Consumpti Black 3% 3% 1+1% 6% 14%
on
Grey mel. 3% 3% 1+1% 5% 13%

III Wash Garments consumption for all Buyer

Color Cut Cut Sewing Print/Em Process Total

fabrics panel losses b losses losses

losses losses Josses

White 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 12% 25%

Actual .Light color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 12% 25%

Consiim Medium color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 10% 23%


ption Dark color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 8% 21%

Black 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 6% 19%

Grey mel. 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 5% 18%


IV. Other buyer consumption for all type of fabrics without bio finish

Color Cut S cuing Print/Em Process Total


losses losses losses
fabrics b losses
losses

White 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 18%


Actual
Consump Light color 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 18%
tion
Medium color 3% 3% 1+1% 8% 16%

Dark color 3% 3% 1+1% 6% 14%

Black 3% 3% 1+1% 4% 12%

Grey mel. 3% 3% 1+1% 3% 11%

V. H& M and Tema consumption for all type of yarn dyed fabrics with
bio finish.

Actual Color Cut Sewing Print/Em Process Total

ption fabrics losses b losses losses

losses losses

Average color 6% 3% 1+1% 6% 17%


VI. Pigment dyed Garments consumption for all buyer

Actual Color Cut Cut Sewing Print/Em Process Total

Consum fabrics panel losses h losses losses

Ption losses losses losses

Average color 3% 2% 12% 1+1% 6% 25%

Formula:
Totlal area of the market
Fabric consumption in Kg no. of required garments
member of garments in the market

X process loss% x Fabric GSM

Fabric Diameter Marker diameter side space (1-2.5")

Note:

In the CAD section normally they calculate the fabric consumption for a large size sample.
For this, the amount of required fabrics is more. So fabric wastages are more. If it is possible
to evaluate the fabric consumption for each then some fabrics may be save. And it will be
beneficial for the Company.

Cutting section

In Fakir Knitwears Limited there are three cutting unit

1. Unit 1 (capacity- 70-80 thousand pcs per day)

2. Unit 2 (capacity- 80-100 thousand pcs per day)

3. Unit 3 (capacity- 40-45 thousand pcs per day)


Responsibilities:
Collect the information from planning department about which fabrics have to be
cut.

Collect the fabric Iron the finished fabric store.

Collect the marker from CAD department.

Fold the fabric according to the roll number.

Spread the fabric in the cutting table with required diameter required amount.

Cut the fabric according to the marker.

Make the fabric according to the si/.e, lot, amount of pieces and etc

Divide the fabrics according to the fabric roll number.

Inspect the fabric.

If required print the fabric.

Store the fabric into input area and deliver the cut fabrics to the sewing department.

Working procedure:
File collect from planning department

Fabric collects from store

Marker come from CAD

Fabric folding by auto folding machine

Fabric spreading (Lay)

Marker setting on the lay

Cutting (By using Straight knife, and automatic cutter)

Sticker attaches & hand check

Reject part change

Bundling

If required Print / Embroidery

Store on input rack

Equipments usage:
1. Cutting table
Unit 1-6
Unit 2- 7
Unit 3- 4

2. Auto folding machine

Number- 4

Brand-KONSAN .

3. Auto spreading Machine

Number- 4

Brand- fly

4. Auto cutter 1

Brand- I.cctra

Model- Vector M88K fashion

Fabric diameter- upto 84"

Software- Spread initial

5. Auto cutter 2

Brand- Takatori

Model- UN
Fabric diameter- upto 73"

Software- Spread initial

6. Straight knife cutting machine

Brand- KM

Speed- 3000-3600

Volts- 220 V

Current- 3.3/2.6 amp

Cycle- 50\60

7. Sticker attaching machine

8. Inspection table

9. Input rack

Requirements of fabric spreading:

Alignment of fabric ply


Correct ply tension
Fabric must be flat
Elimination of fabric Haws
(Correct ply direction
Elimination of static electricity
Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Avoidance of distortion in spread
Matching cheeks or stripes
Must indicate the roll no. of the fabric ply.
4. Auto cutter 1

Brand- I.cctra

Model- Vector M88K fashion

Fabric diameter- upto 84"

Soli ware- Spread initial

5. Auto culler 2

Brand- Takatori

Model- UN

Fabric diameter- upto 73"

Software- Spread initial

6. Straight knife culling machine

Brand- KM

Speed- 3000-3600

Volts- 220 V

Current- 3.3/2.6 amp

Cycle- 50\60

7. Sticker attaching machine

8. Inspection table

9. Inpm1 rack

Requirements of fabric spreading:

Alignment of fabric ply

Correct ply tension

Fabric must be flat


Elimination of fabric Haws

(Correct ply direction

Elimination of static electricity

Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles

Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

Avoidance of distortion in spread

Matching cheeks or stripes

Must indicate the roll no. of the fabric ply.

Process loss:

Fabric loss is a major contribution to material utilization. Minimizing fabric loss during
spreading can reduce the total production costs for garment manufacturing. This is the key
point which has been highlighted in this report. Today garment industry is facing very tough
scenario because of more competitors and less buyers, buyers have many options but
suppliers have very limited choices, the time has gone when there was quota system and
garment industry didn't need to be very many efficient but today suppliers are fighting for
price and quality; on fewer prices better quality is expected. Orders are given to the suppliers
who offer better quality and less prices. So within such scenario, only the things which can
increase profit and minimize loss of a company is fabric saving. Fabric loss in cutting section
may be for following reason.

Inefficient marker
Variation of fabric diameter
Higher GSM than required
More fabric faults
More dyeing faults.

Note:Strife fabrics and low GSM fabrics arc cut by hand cutting
Communication module of Sample, CAD and Cutting Section:

Sample
Merchandising

CAD

Printing/
Embroidery Cutting

Sewing
ChapterTwelve:
Cost Analysis

Cost analysis

Costing of the product:


Costing system mainly describe how the cost of the final product is fixed by the company /
top managements. As it is a garments manufacturing factory, so according to the buyer /
customer requirements of final garments, merchandiser give the consumption of fabric with
specifications. Then it is calculated how much dyestuffs & chemicals are required for
processing. After that, the final cost is fixed including some profit. Then the unit price is
offered to the buyer for their approval.

Costing of a product includes:


Yarn cost
Knitting cost
Dyes & chemicals cost
Cost of dyeing
Cost of finishing
Cost of cutting ,sewing, accessories etc
Cost of printing (If any)
Labor cost (direct & indirect)
Factory cost
Office & administrative cost
Sales and caring cost
Others cost
Profit, etc.

Price of different operation (Approx.):


Knitting Cost Single Jersey (Normal) : 8 Tk/Kg
Knitting Cost Single Jersey (Feeder Stripe) : 28 Tk/Kg.
Knitting Cost Single Jersey (Auto Stripper) : 120 Tk/Kg.
Dyeing +Finishing charge for medium shade: 85~90 Tk/Kg.
Dyeing +Finishing charge for deep shade : 100~110 Tk/Kg.
Tube finishing (Dewatering +Dryer + compactor) : 15-20 Tk/Kg.

The costing of the product is most secret matter of the Industry. They are not interested
to flash the cost related data. So we could not collect the Costing process of the products.

Production Cost Calculation:


Specification
Product Type Single Jersey
Color Combination 3 given Swatch
Finish Dia 56 cm
Fabric Weight 10 Kg

Calculation:
For dyeing total process lost: 12% to 15%.
Say, Process lost: 12% for given sample.
From given sample, we find out
Yarn count: 30/1 Ne.
S L: 3.07 mm. or Finish GSM/S.L =? (When color yarn used for knitting)
Gray GSM =?
M/C gauge =? (1 inch = No of loops (sample) = No of needles)
No of feeder & No of active feeder =?
M/C Dia =?

Repeat= 2(white) +2 (maroon) + 4 (light blue) + 11(maroon) = 19 color


yarn/repeat.
Total grey yarn to be purchased: (10 +1.2) kg = 11.2 kg.
Yarn price/kg = 3.1 $ or 210 Tk.
Total yarn purchased cost = 11.2 X 3.1$ = 34.72 $.

Cost for knitting section:

Color Machine Machine No. of No. of No. of No. of


dia In gauge In feeder active cones cones/c
(Inch) (Inch) feeder olor
Maroon 39
30 24 72 57 57
Light 12
Blue
white 6
Color Knitting Dyed yarn Weight of Knitting Total Knitting
Wastes quantity yarn/cone/co cost/kg/c Cost
In (Kg) lor In (Kg) olor In
(Tk)

Maroon 180.6 10.30 kg X 28


10.30 kg 12 = 288.4 Tk
Light 0% 180.6 = 4.24 $
Blue
white 180.6

Cost for Dyeing section:

color Dyeing Dyed Weight of Dyeing Total Cost of Total


wastes yarn dyeing cost/kg Dyeing / Color Dyeing
quantity yarn/color /color In ($) Cost In
In (Kg) In (Kg) In ( $) ($)
Maroo 7.046 2.6 7.046 X 18.32
n 2.6=18.32 + 3.68
11.2
Light 2.168 1.7 2.168 X + 1.52
11.2 X 8
8% =
Blue %= 1.7=3.68
white 1.084 1.4 1.084 X =1.52 23.52
10.30

Say, washing & finishing cost = 60Tk/kg (Normal)

Total washing & finishing cost = 10.30 X 60 = 618 Tk


= 9.08 $

So, Total fabric production cost = (34.72 + 23.52 + 4.24 + 9.08) $


=71.56 $

Say, Overhead cost per kg fabric = 12tk.

Overhead cost = 10.30kg X 12 Tk/kg = 123.6 Tk = 1.82 $.


Profit 30 % = 22.1 $.

Total cost = (71.56 + 1.82 + 22.1) $ = 95.48 $

Total selling price per kg fabric = 9.548 $


= 650 Tk.

Note:
1. If yarn count change then yarn purchased cost change.
2. If yarn color change then dyeing cost increase / decrease.
3. If washing & finishing process change then washing & finishing cost change.

Remarks:
The costing of the product is most secret matter of the Industry. They are not interested to flash the
cost related data. So we could not collect the Costing process of the products.

ChapterThirteen:
Maintenance

Maintenance

Maintenance;
Maintenance is the process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble
free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required
by the customer is sustained. Maintenance can increased machine life and ensured trouble
free service
Maintenance of Machinery:

Maintenance

Preventive Routine Corrective


Maintenance Maintenance Maintenance

Mechanical Electrical Mechanical Electrical Mechanical Electrical


Maintenance Maintenance Maintenance Maintenance Maintenance Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance:
Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time
inspection or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production
break downs or harmful description.

Routine Maintenance:
Maintenance of different machines is prepared by expert engineers of the maintenance
department. Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete
checking if different important parts are done.

Corrective Maintenance:
Corrective Maintenance is done after a failure has occurred. Fakir KnitwearsLTD. has an
expert team for maintenance. When problem occurs they actively solve the problems.

Maintenance Procedure:
As a part of maintenance normally Fakir KnitwearsLTD. follows preventive
maintenance. During maintenance procedure following points has to be checked.
Maintenance: Mechanical
Machine : Dyeing
S/l No. Items need to be checked and serviced

1 Complete cleaning of machine

2 Check air supply of the machine

3 Cleaning of inside of the m/c

4 Greasing of unloading roller bearings

5 Check water supply of the machine

6 Checking of cooling valve

7 Checking of steaming valve

8 Checking exhauster

9 Checking of heat exchanger

Maintenance: Electrical

Machine : Dyeing

S/l No. Items need to be checked and serviced

1 Check all motor terminals.

2 Check main panels.

3 Clean main inverter.

4 Check all circuit breaker.

5 Check all pressure switches.

6 Visual checking of all power and control cables.

7 Check all pneumatic solenoids.

8 Check all emergency switches.

9 Check all on/off switches.

10 Check all signal isolator.


Chapter Fourteen

Utility Services

Utility Services

Available Utility Facilities:


Electricity
Gas
Water
Compressed air
Boiler etc.
Gas:
Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36 m 3
gas is required to produce 1 ton of steam.

Boiler:
Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section as required.

Fig: Boiler of boiler Fig: Steam Delivery Chamber


Problem associated for hard water in boiler:

1. Scale formation in boiler:

Ca(HCO3)2 Ca CO3 + CO2 + H2O

Mg (HCO3)2 Mg CO3 + CO2 + H2O

MgCO3 + H2O Mg (OH)2 + CO2

CaCO3 + Mg (OH)2 Boiler scale

Scale thickness Heat loss (%)


1 mm Approx 10
3 mm Approx 17
5 mm Approx 22
10 mm Approx 30
20 mm Approx 43

2. Reaction with soap:


RCOONa + MgSO4 (RCOO)2Mg + Na2SO4
RCOONa + CaSO4 (RCOO)2Ca + Na2SO4

3. Corrosion of boiler:

Fe + H2O + CO2 Fe CO3 + H2

FeCO3 + H2 O Fe(OH)2 + CO2

Five Boilers have been use by Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

Type Total
Model Serial no Brand Country
nos
DDHI 5.0-10 188/9 Omnica Germany 2
Fire tube
UL-S-1000 103730 Loos Germany 3
Power plant:

Our Countrys most important issue is power sector. The government faces lots of problem
for supplying the power for industrial sector. Considering all these, at the very beginning of
establishment of Fakir Knit wears Ltd; Fakir Knitwears Ltd. using their own power generator.
They have vast setup for the own power source and generating 24 hour power system to
successfully running our whole project. They have:

Electricity:
The main utility electricity is supplied by generator.

Gas Generator:

Total Manufact Volts RPM Hz A KVA KW Generate Used Duty Origin


Nos urer /Day) /Day

04 Waukesh 415/ 1000 50 1565 1125 900 3.6 Mw 2.8 Conti USA
a Power 24 MW nuous
Systems hr

Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section like knitting,
Dyeing (yarn/ fabric), Finishing, Maintenance, WTP, ETP etc.
Compressor:
Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as
required. In FakirKnitwears Ltd. they usedcompressors to produce and deliver
compressed air to different section.

Name Model Brand Country Total Total No.


of Origin Nos of
Reserve
Tank
Dryer ASD-147 Kaeser Germany 5
Compressor CSD-102 Kaeser Germany 5
(Big) 02
Compressor TEL-141 Kaeser Germany 5
(Small)
Generator VHP5904GSID WAUKESHA U.S.A. 6

Water Treatment Plant (WPT):


Water for a textile plant may come from various sources. But this water can not be used
directly in textile processing because it contains various salts. These salts are mainly the
carbonates (CO32-), Hydrogen carbonates or bi-carbonates (HCO3-), Sulphates (SO42-) and
Chlorides (Cl-) of Calcium (Ca2+), and Magnesium (Mg2+). These are called hardness in the
water. These must be removed though water treatment plant.
Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible and centrifugal
pumps.

Methods of expressing the water hardness:


1. In Degrees, and
2. PPM (parts per million)

Hardness measurement calculation:

Required EDTA * 1000 * EDTA factor


PPM =
Total amount of water
There are different types of water softening process:
1. Soda lime process.
3. Base Exchange process.
4. Demineralization.
5. Soda alum process.
6. Aeration process.
7. Chelation on sequestration.

In Fakir Knitwears Ltd. follow the base Exchange water softening process for softening the
hard water.

Base Exchange process:


This methods depends upon the use of zeolite or Base Exchange complexes. The zeolites are
hydrated silicates of sodium & aluminum with a general formula.

(Na2O)X (Al2O3)Y(SiO2)Z (H2O)n

The following reaction occur when contact with hard water.


For temporary hardness,

Ca (HCO3)2 + Na2O.Z CaO.Z + Na2CO3 + H2O


Mg (HCO3)2 + Na2O.Z MgO.Z + Na2CO3 + H2O

For permanent hardness,

CaSO4 + Na2O.Z CaO.Z + Na2CO3


MgSO4 + Na2O.Z MgO.Z + Na2CO3

In where Z is the abbreviation for the Al2O3 SiO2 H2O part of Zeolite.
Regeneration:
1 kg resin required = 200 gm salt
Salt : water = 1 kg : 4.5 L
Used water = 6500000 Ltr/Day

CaO.Z + NaCl NaO.Z + CaCl


The CaCl and residual NaCl washed away and the regenerated Na2O.Z can be used to soften
the hard water again.

Chapter Fifteen
Waste Management system:

Waste Management System

Following wastes are produced in the factory:


Yarn
Fly yarn
Projectingfibre
Plastic bag
Dust
Dust of fabric

ETP:
Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor extracted from an industry after using in original
operation. In the case of dyeing industry, the excess dye liquor extracted from textile industry
after dyeing is an effluent of that industry.

Fakir Knitwears Ltd commitment to the environment can be gauged from the fact they seek to
meet all the legal norms. Taking for instance the establishment of ETP & WTP because they
have, nothing is more important than the maintenance of pollution-free environment. Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. Establish a ETP plant which is the biggest and no.1 ETP plant in Bangladesh.
Fig: ETP Plant

Process sequence:
Screen brush

Lifting pump unit

Storage tank

Neutralization tank

Distributor tank

Biological oxygen tank

Sedimentation feeding tank

Sedimentation curve
Sludge return pump slump

Sludge thickener

Filter press

Used chemicals:
Sodium hypochlorite
Nutrient salt
Anti foam
Sulphuric acid
Poly electrolyte
decolorant
Testing lab instrument:
microscope
BOD sensor system
Thermo reactor
Spectrophotometer
Digital muffle furnace
Portable DO meter
Portable DO meter
Micro-processor PH meter
Electrical balance

Waste Water Treatment Plant (WWTP)

Parameter Unit Conc. Present Dept. of environment govt. of


Inlet Outlet Bangladesh

BOD 281 23 50
COD 730 56 200
TDS 2730 1811 2100
TSS 204 31 150
EC 5210 3403 1200
DO 0.1 4.6 4.5 8
Chloride - >200 600
Phosphate 2.6 2.2 8
Nitrite PPM 0.15 0.08 50
Nitrate 0.9 0.6 10
Ammonium 0.09 .07 5
Sulphate - 27 -
Arsenic - - 0.2
Cobalt - - -
Cynanide - - -
PH - 10.2 7.8 67
Tepm. C 41 37 40
Cadmium PPM - - 0.05
chromiun PPM - - 0.5

Chapter Sixteen
Conclusion

Conclusion

There is large difference between the theoretical knowledge and practical experiences.
This is truer in case of the study of Textile Technology. Industrial attachment or,
Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gap
between theoretical and practical knowledge. The Industrial training increase our
though a lot about textile technology. It also helps us to know a lot about industrial
production process, machineries, and industrial management and made us suitable for
industrial life. Besides it gives us the first opportunity to work in industry. So we can say
industrial attachment prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.

We have completed my industrial attachment fromFakir Knitwears Ltd.During my two


months long industrial training at Fakir Knitwears Ltd. We got the impression that this
factory is one of the modern export oriented composite knit garments industry of our
country. This factory does not compromise in case of quality. So, they have established
on-line and off-line quality control of each product. Besides, they also use the good
quality yarn, dyes and chemicals in their production process. Due to this, it has earned a
very good reputation in foreign market for its quality product over many other export
oriented textile mills. It has very well educated and technically experienced manpower
to get rid of any defect in production process. It has also a good organizational
hierarchy.

My Achievements:
We have got a lot of knowledge about the laboratory work and the steps
that should be maintained before bulk production.
We have identified the process sequence dyeing and gathered adequate
knowledge about each process sequence.
We have earned some mechanical knowledge about dyeing machine.
We have found some special points that should be considered during
dyeing production.
We have understood about industrial environment and administration .

Some suggestion:
Industrial salt should not be used because it corrodes the inner parts of
dyeing machine.
Dyeing production needs to increase as well as technical persons need to
be employed there?
More skilled labor should be used in a project and the overall efficiency
will have to be increased.
Dyeing machine must keep dust free.
There need proper handling of the machine.
Check all production parameter regularly.
Dyeing floor should keep always net and clean. It kept wet after unloading
the fabric from the dyeing machine specially, for Athena. Water must be
swept time to time.
During the transport of the fabric and during the loading of the m/c,
fabrics get soiled due to their drawing over the floor. This makes the
fabric/part of the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring/bleaching
agent or may create stain.
Due to the pressure of higher production sometimes machine operators
do not maintain accurate time according to the actual process so that less
quality product is produced and may reject. So need to be increased
machine and reduce the pressure on the operator.
Should increase understanding between the top level personal and floor
level personal.
Finishing section need to be enlarged well as more technical persons need
to be employed there?
The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The
maintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action
(Wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out
regularly.
In the Laboratory there is no technical person, a textile engineer may be
employed here.
There is shortage of proper light in the dyeing and finishing floor,
specially, when smoke is produced from dryer and stenter. Proper
lighting should be provided in the floor.
The person at the top level of a department must take good care of the
trainees & he should provide all kinds of support to them.
Limitations of the report:
Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities have
not been supplied.
We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more it was not
possible to do so.
Some information in different sections are not included as these were not
available.
It is not possible to hold the whole thing of a textile industry in such a
small frame as this report. So, try our hard to summarize all the
information that we are provided.

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