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London, 1788; 3rd edition, London, 1796; expanded by others as Lexicon Balatronicum. A
Dictionary of Buckish Slang, University Wit, and Pickpocket Eloquence, London, 1811.
9) Hall, J.R. Clark, A Concise Anglo-Saxon Dictionary, Cambridge University Press, 1894, reprint
with supplement by Herbert D. Meritt, University of Toronto Press, 1984.
10) Hindley, Alan, Frederick W. Langley, Brian J. Levy, Old French-English Dictionary, Cambridge
University Press, 2000.
11) Kipfer, Barbara Ann, ed., and Robert L. Chapman, Dictionary of American Slang, 4th ed.,
HarperCollins, 2007.
12) Klein, Dr. Ernest, A Comprehensive Etymological Dictionary of the English Language,
Amsterdam: Elsevier Scientific Publishing Co., 1971.
13) Lewis, Charlton T., Elementary Latin Dictionary, Oxford, 1890.
14) Liberman, Anatoly, Analytic Dictionary of English Etymology, University of Minnesota Press,
2008.
15) Liddell, Henry George, and Robert Scott, eds., Intermediate Greek-English Lexicon, Oxford
Univ. Press, 1883.
16) McSparran, Frances, chief editor, The Middle English Compendium, University of Michigan,
2006.
17) Room, Adrian, Place Names of the World, 2nd ed., McFarland & Co., 2006.
18) The Oxford English Dictionary, 2nd ed., Clarendon Press, 1989.
19) Watkins, Calvert, ed., The American Heritage Dictionary of Indo-European Roots, 2nd ed.,
Houghton Mifflin Co., 2000.
20) Weekley, Ernest, An Etymological Dictionary of Modern English, John Murray, 1921; reprint
1967, Dover Publications.
21) Whitney, William Dwight, ed., The Century Dictionary and Cyclopedia, New York: The Century
Co., 1902.
22) Zoga, Geir T., A Concise Dictionary of Old Icelandic, reprint, University of Toronto Press,
2004.
23) Agnes, Michael, ed. in chief, Webster's New World College Dictionary, fourth edition,
MacMillan, 1999.
24) Allen, Richard Hinckley, Star Names and Their Meanings, London: Stechert, 1899.
25) Ayto, John, Dictionary of Word Origins, Arcade Publishing, 1990.
26) ----------, 20th Century Words, Oxford University Press, 1999.
27) Bardsley, Charles Wareing, English Surnames, London: Chatto and Windus, 5th ed., 1915.
 178

28) Barney, Stephen A., Word-Hoard, Yale University Press, 1977.

29) Barrre, Albert, Argot and Slang, London, 1889.
30) Barrre, Albert, and Charles G. Leland, A Dictionary of Slang, Jargon & Cant, Ballantyne Press,
1890.
31) Bartlett, John Russell, Dictionary of Americanisms, 2nd ed., Boston: Little, Brown and
Company, 1859.
32) Brachet, A., An Etymological Dictionary of the French Language, transl. G.W. Kitchin, Oxford,
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33) Bright, William, Native American Placenames of the United States, University of Oklahoma
Press, 2004.
34) Brockett, John Trotter, A Glossary of North Country Words, Newcastle, 1829.
35) Craigie, Sir William A., and James R. Hulbert, A Dictionary of American English on Historical
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36) Diez, Friederich, Etymologisches Wrterbuch der Romanischen Sprachen, Bonn, 1853.
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Arranged, Oxford University Press, 1899.
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1976.
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 179

63) Pickering, John, A Vocabulary, or Collection of Words and Phrases Which Have Been Supposed
to be Peculiar to the United States of America, Boston, 1816.
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79) Wright, Thomas, ed., Popular Treatises on Science Written During the Middle Ages, London,
1841.

BRAND

brand (v.)
c. 1400, "to brand, cauterize; stigmatize," originally of criminal marks or cauterized wounds,
from brand (n.). As a means of marking property, 1580s; figuratively from c. 1600, often in a
bad sense, with the criminal marking in mind. Related: Branded; branding.
brand (n.)
Old English brand, brond "fire, flame; firebrand, piece of burning wood, torch," and (poetic)
"sword," from Proto-Germanic *brandaz (cognates: Old Norse brandr, Old High
German brant, Old Frisian brond "firebrand, blade of a sword," German brand "fire"), from
root *bran-/*bren- (see burn (v.)). Meaning "identifying mark made by a hot iron" (1550s)
broadened by 1827 to "a particular make of goods." Brand name is from 1922.
brand-new (adj.)
1570s, from brand (n.) + new. Originally it must have meant "fresh from the fire"
(Shakespeare has fire-new).
brandish (v.)
mid-14c., from Old French brandiss-, present participle stem of brandir "to flourish (a
sword)" (12c.), from brant "blade of a sword, prow of a ship," of Frankish origin
(see brand(n.)). Related: Brandished; brandishing.
firebrand (n.)
also fire-brand, c. 1200, "piece of wood kindled at a fire, a piece of something burning,"
from fire (n.) + brand (n.). Used for spreading fire. Figurative sense of "one who kindles
mischief or passions" is from late 14c.
 180

STIGMA

stigmatism (n.)
1660s, "a branding," from Greek stigmatizein, from stigmat-, stem of stigma (see stigma).
Meaning "condition of being affected with stigmata" is from 1897.
stigma (n.)
1590s (earlier stigme, c. 1400), "mark made on skin by burning with a hot iron," from
Latin stigma (plural stigmata), from Greek stigma (genitive stigmatos) "mark of a pointed
instrument, puncture, tattoo-mark, brand," from root of stizein "to mark, tattoo," from PIE
root *steig- "to stick; pointed" (see stick (v.)).
Figurative meaning "a mark of disgrace" in English is from 1610s. Stigmas "marks
resembling the wounds on the body of Christ, appearing supernaturally on the bodies of the
devout" is from 1630s; earlier stigmate (late 14c.), from Latin stigmata.
stigmatize (v.)
1580s, "to brand or tattoo," from Medieval Latin stigmatizare, from Greek stigmatizein,
from stigmat-, stem of stigma (see stigma). Meaning "to blemish" is from 1610s (figurative),
1630s (literal). Related: Stigmatized; stigmatizing.
cauterize (v.)
c. 1400, from Old French cauterisier, from Late Latin cauterizare "to burn or brand with a
hot iron," from Greek kauteriazein, from kauter "burning or branding iron," fromkaiein "to
burn" (see caustic). Related: Cauterized; cauterizing.

NAME

name (n.)
Old English nama, noma "name, reputation," from Proto-Germanic *namon (cognates: Old
Saxon namo, Old Frisian nama, Old High German namo, German Name, Middle
Dutch name, Dutch naam, Old Norse nafn, Gothic namo "name"), from PIE *nomn-
(cognates: Sanskrit nama; Avestan nama; Greek onoma, onyma; Latin nomen; Old Church
Slavonic ime, genitive imene; Russian imya; Old Irish ainm; Old Welsh anu "name").
Meaning "famous person" is from 1610s. Meaning "one's reputation" is from c. 1300. As a
modifier meaning "well-known," first attested 1938. Name brand is from 1944; name-
calling attested from 1846; name-dropper first recorded 1947. name-tag is from 1903; name-
child attested from 1845. The name of the game "the essential thing or quality" is from 1966;
to have one's name in lights "be a famous performer" is from 1929.
He who once a good name gets,
May piss a bed, and say he sweats.
["Dictionary of Buckish Slang, University Wit and Pickpocket Eloquence," London, 1811]
name (v.)
Old English namian "to name, call; nominate, appoint," from source of name (n.).
Related: Named; naming.

MARK

mark (n.1)
"trace, impression," Old English mearc (West Saxon), merc (Mercian) "boundary, sign, limit,
mark," from Proto-Germanic *marko (cognates: Old Norse merki "boundary,
sign,"mrk "forest," which often marked a frontier; Old Frisian merke,
Gothic marka "boundary, frontier," Dutch merk "mark, brand," German Mark "boundary,
boundary land"), from PIE *merg- "edge, boundary, border" (cognates:
Latin margo "margin;" Avestan mareza- "border," Old Irish mruig, Irish bruig "borderland,"
Welsh bro "district").
 181

The primary sense is probably "boundary," which had evolved by Old English through "sign
of a boundary," through "sign in general," then to "impression or trace forming a sign."
Meaning "any visible trace or impression" first recorded c. 1200. Sense of "line drawn to
indicate starting point of a race" (as in on your marks ...) first attested 1887. The Middle
English sense of "target" (c. 1200) is the notion in marksman and slang sense "victim of a
swindle" (1883). The notion of "sign, token" is behind the meaning "numerical award given
by a teacher" (1829). Influenced by Scandinavian cognates.
mark (v.)
"to put a mark on," Old English mearcian (West Saxon), merciga (Anglian) "to trace out
boundaries," from Proto-Germanic *markojan (cognates: Old Norse merkja, Old
Saxonmarkon, Old Frisian merkia, Old High German marchon, German merken "to mark,
note," Middle Dutch and Dutch merken), from the root of mark (n.1).
Influenced by Scandinavian cognates. Meaning "to have a mark" is from c. 1400; that of "to
notice, observe" is late 14c. Meaning "to put a numerical price on an object for sale" led to
verbal phrase mark down (1859). Mark time (1833) is from military drill.
Related: Marked; marking. Old French merchier "to mark, note, stamp, brand" is a Germanic
loan-word.
mark (n.2)
"unit of money or weight," late Old English marc, a unit of weight (chiefly for gold or silver)
equal to about eight ounces, probably from Old Norse mrk "unit of weight," cognate with
German Mark, probably ultimately a derivative of mark (n.1), perhaps in sense of "imprinted
weight or coin." Used from 18c. in reference to various continental coinages, especially. the
silver coin of Germany first issued 1875.

TRADEMARK

trademark (n.)
also trade-mark, 1838 (the thing itself attested continuously from 14c., apparently originally
the watermarks on paper), from trade (n.) + mark (n.1). Figurative use by 1869. As a verb,
from 1904. Related: Trademarked; trademarking.

FASHION

fashion (n.)
c. 1300, fasoun, "physical make-up or composition; form, shape; appearance," from Old
French faon, fachon, fazon "face, appearance; construction, pattern, design; thing done;
beauty; manner, characteristic feature" (12c.), from Latin factionem (nominative factio) "a
making or doing, a preparing," also "group of people acting together," from facere "to make"
(see factitious).
Especially "style, manner" of make, dress, or embellishment (late 14c.); hence "prevailing
custom; mode of dress and adornment prevailing in a place and time" (late 15c.). Meaning
"good style, conformity to fashionable society's tastes" is from 1630s.
To call a fashion wearable is the kiss of death. No new fashion worth its salt is wearable.
[Eugenia Sheppard, "New York Herald Tribune," Jan. 13, 1960]
In Middle English also spelled faschyoun, facune, faction, etc. Fashion plate (1851)
originally was "full-page picture in a popular magazine showing the prevailing or latest style
of dress," in reference to the typographic plate from which it was printed. Transferred sense
of "well-dressed person" had emerged by 1920s. After a fashion "to a certain extent" is from
1530s. Shakespeare (c. 1600) has both in fashion and out of fashion.
fashion (v.)
"to form, give shape to," early 15c.; see fashion (n.). Related: Fashioned; fashioning.
 182

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 188

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VANITY FAIR c 1868
 189

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VOGUE c 1892
 190

3 ()

LASSITUDE LA GLASE OU UN COUP

Robe de dine de Paul Poiret D`OEIL EN PASSANT
Illustration: Lepape Manteau do soir de Paul Poiret
llustration: Marty

LE CONSEILLER DES DAMES LA FLEUR ET LE MIROIR

Robe et Manteau pour le Theatre Robe du soir de Cheruit
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Brunelleschi

4
Haute Couture XIX
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
 191

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DEUX HEURES DU MATIN L`AVERSE INTEMPESTIVE

Manteau de Worth Robe pour la cote D`Azur de Worth
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Barbier

COROMANDEL LE DEPART POUR LE CASINO

Manteau et robe du soir Manteau du soir de Worth
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Barbier

5
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
 192

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LA CALINE LA COQUETTE SURPRISE

Robe de Dauillet Veston de Larsen Illustration: Robe du soir de Worth
Marty Illustration: Marty

NIGHT-TIME FAREWELLS ESPEREZ

Robe du soir de Paquin Robe du soir de Worth
Illustration: Marty Illustration: Barbier

6
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
 193

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TU VAS TROP VITE, MAMAN FUMEE

Robe de fillette de Jeanne Lanvin Robe du soir de Beer
Illustration: Brissaud Illustration: Barbier

SORTILEGES LA CAPE NOIRE

Robe du soir de Beer Habit et Peierine de soiree
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Boutet de Monvel

7
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
 194

4
1
( 2015.)

1) Acne Studios, 48) Jean-Charles De Castelbajac,

2) Adeline Andr, 49) Jitrois,
3) Af Vandevorst, 50) John Galliano,
4) Agns B, 51) John Ribbe,
5) Akris, 52) Junko Shimada,
6) Alexander Mc Queen, 53) Juun J.,Kenzo,
7) Alexis Mabille, 54) Krisvanassche,
8) Andrew Gn, Ann Demeulemeester, 55) Lanvin,
9) Anne Valrie Hash, 56) Lonard,
10) Anthony Vaccarello, 57) Loewe,
11) Azzaro, 58) Louis Vuitton,
12) Azzedine Alaa, 59) Lucien Pellat-Finet,
13) Balenciaga, 60) Lutz Huelle,
14) Balmain, 61) Maison Martin Margiela,
15) Barbara Bui, 62) Manish Arora,
16) Bouchra Jarrar, 63) Martin Grant,Maurizio Galante,
17) Cacharel, 64) Maxime Simoens,
18) Carven, 65) Miharayasuhiro,
19) Celine, 66) Miu Miu,
20) Cerruti, 67) Mugler,
21) Chalayan, 68) Nina Ricci,
22) Chanel, 69) Paul Smith,
23) Chlo, 70) Paule Ka,
24) Christian Dior, 71) Peachoo+Krejberg,
25) Christophe Josse, 72) Pierre Cardin,
26) Damir Doma, 73) Raf Simons,
27) Dice Kayek, 74) Rick Owens,
28) Dries Van , 75) Rochas,
29) Oten, 76) Roland Mouret,
30) Elie Saab, 77) Sacai,
31) Emanuel Ungaro, 78) Sharon Wauchob,
32) Faconnable,Felipe 79) Shiatzy Chen,
33) Oliveira Baptista, 80) Sonia Rykiel,
34) Francesco Smalto, 81) Stella Mccartney,
35) Frank Sorbier, 82) Stphane Rolland,
36) Gaspard Yurkievich, 83) Tsumori Chisato,
37) Giambattista Valli, 84) Valentino,
38) Giorgio Armani, 85) Vanessa Bruno,
39) Givenchy, 86) Vronique Leroy,
40) Gustavolins, 87) Versace,
41) Guy Laroche, 88) Viktor&Rolf,
42) Haider Ackermann, 89) Vivienne Westwood,
43) Henrik Vibskov, 90) Wooyoungmi,
44) Herms, 91) Yohji Yamamoto,
45) Isabel Marant, 92) Yves Saint Laurent,
46) Issey Miyake, 93) Zilli,
47) Jean Paul Gaultier, 94) Zucca
/ Chambre syndicale de la
haute couture parisienne. / The Fdration
Franaise de la Couture, du Prt--Porter des Couturiers et des Crateurs de Mode - Paris
www.modeaparis.com/en/federation
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1 Hermes c 1837 / www.hermes.com/

2 Louis Vuitton c 1854 / www.louisvuitton.com/

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3 Chanel c 1909 / www.chanel.com/

Ermenegildo
4 c 1910 / www.zegna.com/
Zegna

5 Prada c 1913 / www.prada.com/

195

6 Gucci c 1921 / www.gucci.com/

7 Fendi c 1925 / www.fendi.com/

Salvatore
8 c 1927 / www.ferragamo.com/
Ferragamo

9 Christian Dior c 1946 / www.dior.com/

Giorgio
10 c 1975 / www.armani.com/
Armani
Dolce &
11 c 1985 / www.dolcegabbana.com/
Gabbana
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17 Haute-Couture

Elie Saab Couture Exhibition at the Four Seasons Geneva

Esprit Dior Exhibition in Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai

Exhibition Paris Haute Couture Presented by Swarovski at the Htel de Ville

 243

18 Haute-Couture

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THIERRY MUGLER JASON WO

 244

18 Haute-Couture

HAUTE-COUTURE ATELIER VERSACE

HAUTE-COUTURE STEPHANE ROLAND

 245

18 Haute-Couture
Gianfranco Ferr