Everyday is a New Sweater Day

Oh, how much I love babies. It feels like everyone around me is having a
baby. I think I am having a small baby crafting sweatshop in my head.
Babies, babies, babies.

I am all about top-down (it is another story of how petrified I am of

seaming pieces together). Since so many of my friends are procreating, I
have been on the hunt for good top-down crochet (I am faster with
crochet) sweater patterns. Without much success, I soon started coming
up with my own...Bombay Love is one of them.
Then I wanted a sweater that was versatile, that can be worn in many
ways. Hey--babies are very fashionable. "Everyday is a New Sweater Day"
was born. Button up and you have a funnel neck jacket. Roll up and you
have a little pullover. Fold and you have a collared shirt!

This sweater was made for Anjali's baby! I made it in a 12 month baby
size, but like all top-downs, it is all flexible (you got to love that). Work
less rounds before separating the sleeves, and you have a smaller
sweater. Remove the funnel neck and you have a plain sweater. Dont work
on the sleeves after separation, and you have a little shirt. I am all about
"making it your own."
Everyday is a New Sweater Day (Click here to queue it on Ravelry)

Stuff:

* 1.5 skeins of worsted weight yarn; a little bit of worsted weight yarn in
contrasting color for edging (I used Vanna's Choice Solids)
* size 5.5 crochet hook (fits 12 month old)
* two buttons and one yarn needle

Abbreviations:

* Ch: chain
* DC: double crochet
* SC: single crochet
* St: stitch
* DC-DEC: double crochet decrease
* Sl st: slip stitch

Body:

With the main color of your choice, Chain 38.

Row 1: DC in the 3rd ch from hook and in every ch across. Ch3, turn.
Count this Ch3 as the first st in the next row and in every other row.

Row 2: DC in all other sts across. Ch3, turn.

Row 3 - 4: Repeat Row 2.

Row 5: DC in first 6 sts, (DC, Ch1, DC) in the next chain, DC in next 4 chs
(first sleeve), (DC, Ch1, DC) in the next chain, DC in next 12 chs (back),
(DC, Ch1, DC) in next chain, DC in next 4 chs (second sleeve), (DC, Ch1,
DC) in next chain, DC in the next 6 chs (second front), Ch3, turn.
Row 6: * Work DC until Ch1 space, work (DC, Ch1, DC) in this space,
repeat from * 3 more times, DC to end, Ch3, turn.

Repeat Row 6 until desired chest measurement. My shirts had a chest

circumference of about 23 inches.

Next row: DC until Ch1 space, work DC-DEC in the first Ch1 space and the
next Ch1 space (one sleeve separated), DC until next (third) Ch1 space,
work DC-DEC in the third Ch1 space and the next (fourth) Ch1 space
(second sleeve separated), DC to end, Ch3, turn.

Next row: DC in each st across, Ch3, turn. Repeat this row until you are
two rows away from desired length (remember to end with WS row).

Next row: Change to contrasting color. DC in each st across, Ch3, turn.

Next row: DC in each st across. Fasten off.

Sleeves:

Attach main color yarn at Ch1 space at underarm, Ch2, work DC around,
join to the second st of Ch2 with sl st.

Ch2, word DC around, join to the second st of Ch2 with st st. Repeat this
row until desired sleeve length.

For edging: Attach contrasting color, Ch1, word SC around, join to Ch1
with sl st. Fasten off.

Repeat the same for the next sleeve.

Buttons: Sew buttons as shown in the pictures.

Finishing:

Weave in ends.
Smile.
Look at your handmade project again.

Please:
This pattern is for your personal use only. If you use it, please
link/acknowledge the pattern. Kindly do not publish pattern text or
photographs without my written permission. Thanks!

Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf

Posted on December 7, 2012 by moogly
The Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf pattern is super easy, hides a
multitude of sins, and comes with just one rule: no stress allowed!
This finished scarf is between 50 and 60 inches long, and twists
and turns on itself naturally perfect for wearing doubled as a
cowl, as well as long, tied, anything you can come up with! The
little button tie embellishment is a separate optional piece, and
instructions for that are included as well!

The Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf is a great one skein project that
really shows off interesting and luxurious yarns. Perfect for thick
and thin yarns, as well as yarns with long color changes, it can be
made with any size hook and yarn just start by chaining until
youve got your desired length in a multiple of 7 sts and go from
there. Using this pattern, every cowl will be unique. In the right
yarn its a wearable work of art!
Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

US K, 6.5mm hook
US I, 5.5mm hook (optional, for making tie on button only)
280 yds worsted weight yarn (Red Heart Boutique
Unforgettable in Tidal shown)
Optional: Button (1 1/4 or 32mm button shown)
NOTE: This pattern is worked in a spiral, so there is no join at
the end of the rounds. There are video tutorials for all the
stitches and techniques used in this pattern on the moogly
Video Tutorials page.

How to keep it SIMPLE while making this scarf:

1. If the starting chain is twisting up on you, try to straighten it
out for the first stitch, but dont worry about getting out every
twist a couple twists are good! Keep going!
2. If you finish the first round and find out youve started with an
off number of chains, pretend as if theyre there, stick with
the pattern and just keep going!
3. If you realize you skipped a stitch 2 rows ago, just keep
going!
4. If you run out of yarn before you get through all the rows?
Well then stop, because youre out of yarn, silly. Just skip to
the end of the pattern and finish off as directed! Though you
might want to pull out a row to make the tie at the end.
Heres a Chart to help you visualize how it comes
together:

Now for the actual Instructions:

To start: Using K hook, ch 210.

Round 1: Work a sc in the first ch made, making the loop to work in

the round. Dc in the next ch. *Ch 5, sk 5 ch, dc in the next 2 ch.
Repeat from * until you have reached the end of the loop and there
are approximately 5 chains left unworked.

Round 2: Ch 5, sk the remaining unworked starting chains and the

sc from Round 1. Dc in the first dc from Round 1, then dc again in
the ch 5 sp. *Ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc and the ch 5 sp.
Repeat from * until end of round.

Rounds 3 20: Continue working [ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc

and the ch 5 sp] in a continuous spiral. The pattern will seem to
slant to the left as you work, as seen below. Stop when you count
20 rows of mesh, or when youre almost out of yarn. To finish off, ch
5, sk next dc, sc in the next sc, and use seamless join in the next
ch. Weave in ends.
Instructions for the Button Tie Embellishment
(optional):

1. Thread button on remaining yarn using a sewing or tapestry

needle. Using I hook, ch for 18.
2. Slip the button down close to the hook, and skipping over the
button, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook (trapping the button
in the loop). Sl st back along ch for approximately 6 or until
this sl st section is long enough to fit around cowl when
doubled, with a little bit of tension.
3. Ch 8 sts (for size button shown) or long enough to create a
loop that fits tightly around the button. Sl st in the same ch as
last sl st, sl st in next 2 ch.
 4. Ch to same length as remaining unworked ch, approximately
12. Break yarn and finish off ends.
5. To wear, slip button behind cowl and pull it toward the front.
Pass button through loop made in Step 3. Let ends fly and jet
off to the spa! Or wherever you want to look fabulous.

This scarf pattern is practically foolproof! What are you waiting

for? With just one skein of yarn, you can have a sexy cowl and scarf
to wear everywhere this season, and with the button
embellishment pattern you can change up the look in seconds!
Enjoy!

Be sure to Like the moogly Facebook page for

the latest updates and have some fun with us! And if you like what
you see but dont craft, I take custom orders and commissions at
mooglystore@gmail.com. Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly
2012. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please feel
free to link to this page to share this pattern with others.
Bobble Poof Crochet Earflap Hat
Posted on November 30, 2012 by moogly

The Bobble Poof Crochet Earflap Hat has a whole lot going on, and
it adds up to a fun toque for both kids and adults! This stocking cap
is easily customizable too it works just as well with or without
the earflaps and pompom on top. With this crochet hat pattern you
can make a great hat for men and women, boys and girls and now
newborns too!

Bobble Poof Crochet Earflap Hat

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Note: This hat utilizes the bobble stitch, aka dc5tog, in a unique
way. As shown in this video tutorial, usually the bobble is made
from the wrong side of the fabric, and worked so that it pops out
on the right side. This pattern is made in rounds, and the bobble is
made from the right side of the fabric, so be sure to push the
bobble towards you as you work the following single crochet stitch.

US I, 5.5mm hook
150-240 yds total worsted weight yarn in 1 to 8 colors (I Love
Cotton in Purple, Dark Denim, Sage, and Ivory shown,
directions written for 4 colors as shown)
Clover Large Pom Pom Maker or other pompom making tool
Stitch marker
Gauge: After Round 4, Child/Adult hat should measure 5 in
diameter; After Round 3, Newborn hat should measure 3.5 in
diameter
Directions are written for Childs Size (fits 19-21) with
changes for Adults Size (fits 22-24) in parenthesis (changes
start on Round 5). Directions for Newborn size are written
separately at the bottom of the page.
Video tutorials for the Bobble Stitch and other stitches used
in this pattern, including the magic circle and seamless join,
can be found on the Moogly Tutorials Page.
Child and Adult Instructions (scroll down for Newborn)
Round 1: Using Color A, make a magic circle and ch 2. Make 12 dc
in the ring, join to the first dc with a sl st. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (24 dc)

Round 3: Using Color B, ch 2. [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] 12

times. Join. (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 2. [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 12 times. Join. (48

dc)

Round 5: Using Color C, ch 2. [2 dc in next st, dc in next 11(5) sts]

4(8) times. Join. (52(56) dc)

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in first st. [Bobble in next st, sc in next 3 sts]

12(13) times. Bobble in next st, sc in last 2 sts. Join. (13(14)
bobbles)

Round 7: Using Color D, ch 2. Dc in each st around. Join. (52(56) dc)

Round 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st] 13(14) times.

Join carefully to first sc of round. (13(14) bobbles)

Round 9: Using Color A, ch 2. Dc in each st around. Join. (52(56) dc)

Round 10: Ch 1, sc in first st. [Bobble in next st, sc in next 3 sts]

12(13) times. Bobble in next st, sc in last 2 sts. Join. (13(14)
bobbles)

Round 11 12: Using Color B, repeat Rounds 7-8.

Round 13 14: Using Color C, repeat Rounds 9-10.

Round 15: Using Color D, ch 2. Dc in each st around. Join. (52(56)

dc) If making the Child Size, break yarn and use seamless join to
finish off. Place marker in the joined st and proceed to Earflap
Instructions below.

Round 16 (Adult size only): Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st]
14 times. Join carefully to first sc of round. (14 bobbles)
Round 17: Using Color A, ch 2. Dc in each st around. (56 dc) Break
yarn and use seamless join to finish off. Place marker in the joined
st.

Earflap Instructions for Child/Adult: (optional if no earflaps, skip

to Edging Instructions below)
Left Flap:
Row 1: Count out 8 sts from the marked stitch, join last color yarn
used with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in 10(12) sts. Turn. (10(12) sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog (decrease), sc in 6(8) sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8(10)

sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (8(10) sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in 4(6) sts, sc2tog. Turn. (6(8) sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6(8) sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in 2(4) sts, sc2tog. Turn. (4(6) sc)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (4(6) sc)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in 0(2) sts, sc2tog. Turn. (2(4) sc) For Child
Size, break yarn and finish off. Weave in ends.

Row 9 (Adult size only): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (4 sc)

Row 10: Sc2tog twice. (2 sc) Break yarn and finish off. Weave in
ends.

Right Flap:
Row 1: Count out 18(20) sts from marked st, and join yarn with a sl
st. Proceed as written for Left Flap. Go to Edging Instructions
below.

Newborn Instructions
Round 1: Using Color A, make a magic circle and ch 2. Make 12 dc
in the ring, join to the first dc with a sl st. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (24 dc)

Round 3: Ch 2. [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] 12 times. Join. (36 dc)

Round 4: Using Color B, ch 2. Dc in ea st around. Join. (36 dc)

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in first st. [Bobble in next st, sc in next 3 sts] 8

times. Bobble in next st, sc in last 2 sts. Join. (9 bobbles)

Round 6: Using Color C, ch 2. Dc in ea st around. Join. (36 dc)

Round 7: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, bobble in next st] 9 times. Join

carefully to first sc of round. (9 bobbles)

Round 8 9: Using Color D, repeat Rounds 4 5.

Round 10 11: Using Color A, repeat Rounds 6 7.

Round 12: Using Color B, ch 2. Dc in ea st around. (36 dc) Break

yarn and use seamless join to finish off. Place marker in the joined
st.

Earflap Instructions for Newborn: (optional if no earflaps, skip to

Edging Instructions below)
Left Flap:
Row 1: Count out 5 sts from the marked stitch, join last color yarn
used with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in 8 sts. Turn. (8 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in 4 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (4 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (4 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog twice. (2 sc) Break yarn and finish off. Weave
in ends.

Right Flap:
Row 1: Count out 13 sts from marked st, and join yarn with a sl st.
Proceed as written for Left Flap. Go to Edging Instructions below.
Edging Instructions (all sizes):
Remove marker and use this st to join color of choice with a sl st.
Ch 1 and sc evenly around opening and flaps.Work sc2tog decrease
in the four points where the flaps meet the hat to keep sharp
corners. Break yarn and use seamless join to finish off. Weave in
ends.

Ties: (optional)
Cut 6 pieces of yarn 18 long for kids, at least 24 long for adults.
Hold 3 pieces together, fold them in half lengthwise and use a
crochet hook to pull the center through one of the bottom edging
stitches of an earflap. Pull the ends of the yarn through the loop
made by folding the three pieces in half. Pull the ends down to
create a snug knot on the earflap. Braid pieces together, knot at
end and trim so ends are even. For thicker braids, add more strands
until desired look is achieved.

Pompom: (optional)
Use Clover Large Pom Pom Maker (the larger one) or other pompom
maker of choice to make a pompom. Sew to center of Round 1.
Pompom!

Be sure to Like the moogly Facebook page for

the latest updates and have some fun with us! And if you like what
you see but dont craft, I take custom orders and commissions at
mooglystore@gmail.com. Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly
2012. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please feel
free to link to this page to share this pattern with others.

Spectacular Crochet Cowls: 10 Free

Patterns
Posted on November 20, 2012 by moogly

From what Ive seen this fall, crochet cowls are THE gift to give and
get for women this season. Perfect for any holiday gift giving or
just for winter warmth and style, cowls are practical, cozy, and
very on trend. Here are 10 free crochet cowl patterns to help you
make that perfect present!

1. Calm Cowl by indigoDOT: (437 yds) Theres a reason this free

cowl pattern has been in the Top 5 for Ravelry for so many
weeks! Its simple, easy to make, and it looks great.
2. Convertible Cowl on The Crimson Owl: (220 yds) This crochet
cowl is made with an N hook and either bulky yarn or 2
strands of worsted a very quick project!

3. Chunky Circle Scarf on People Webs: (600 yds) The Catherine

Wheel stitch is so pretty in this chunky infinity scarf made
from 2 Caron Simply Soft held doubled!
4. Cardiff Cowl on Lion Brand: (292 yds) Lacey and lovely, this
scarf is a dream in Baby Alpaca lightweight and warm!

5. Diamond Crochet Cowl on moogly: (210 yds) Im still loving

this cowl and the diamond pattern has been a hit with both
women and men! Easily adaptable for yarn and length.
6. Triple Play Infinity Scarf on Caron: (668 yds) This infinity
scarf is super open and lacy worn long, but Im crazy for how it

looks doubled or tripled!

7. Loop D Loops on Nomsa Knits: (custom) This is possibly the
very easiest, most beginner level cowl ever made and it
looks amazing! I love this look. Might have to put my 11 year

old to work on this one!

8. Chunky Cluster Cowl on Crochet Spot: (149 yds) This cowl is
as bold as can be, and the cluster stitches make me think of
braids or weaving. Looks amazing!
 9. Autumn Sunset Infinity Scarf on moogly: (355 yds) I love what
people have been doing with this pattern on Ravelry working
Rows 6-9 in a different color gives it a whole different look!

10. Cubes on Filcolana: (700 yds) Ok, I know this one is in Danish,
but take a closer look at the pattern. It includes charts (the
international crochet language!) and close-up photos of the
scarf laid flat. Its basically simple filet crochet! And the end
result is surprisingly gorgeous. I love the really graphic,
geometric quality of this one.

Have you made any crochet cowls yet this season? Planning on
making more? What do you think is the perfect cowl for gift giving?
Share in the comments!

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Convertible Cowl -free pattern!
***Please note: This pattern is for personal use only.***

The cowl pattern that I promised...it's super simple, great for a beginner but can keep
an advanced crocheter interested. I made up this cowl and pattern for a class I will be teaching
at Never Enough Yarn in Winchester VA! You can grab the pattern here or stop in the store and
purchase 2 skeins of Baby Alpaca and get the pattern there too.

Please, please, please let me know if you run into any errors or questions about the pattern.
This is the first that I have actually written up. :D p.s. I'll be holding a run through class with the
owner Pam and knitting instructor Jennie this weekend...help me get used to teaching the craft
before officially having the class.

Convertible Cowl
Justess Designs

Use any bulky yarn or 2 strands of medium weight yarn to make this simple cowl. This project is
great for beginners and easy to customize. Use 1 skein for a shorter cowl, make it a solid color
or striped, use your imagination!
Overview
You will be crocheting in the round. You will join but not turn. Mark the beginning of each row
with a row marker.

Materials
Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca Grande (110 yds)
220 yds, 2 skeins in your choice of color

10mm (N) Hook

Stitch marker
Yarn needle

Gauge
If working with a different yarn than recommended, make sure that your beginning chain will fit
over your head leaving plenty of extra enough room. Remember that you want your cowl to be
loose enough to pull up as a hood and still give plenty of coverage around your neck.

Instructions

Ch 55 and join with a sl st into back of chain, being careful not to twist your chain.

Row 1: Ch 1, (working in back of chain) Sc in same Ch as joining. Mark stitch. Sc in each chain
around and join to marked stitch.

Row 2: Ch 2, (counts as first Dc), skip st and Dc in each Sc around. Join with sl st to top of Ch
2. (55 Dc)

Row 3: Ch 1, (counts as first Hdc), skip st and Hdc in each around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 1.
(55 Hdc)

Row 4: Ch 2, (counts as first Dc), skip st and Dc in each Hdc around. Join with sl st to top of Ch
2. (55 Dc)

Rows 5-6: Repeat Row 4

Row 7: Repeat Row 3
Row 8: Repeat Row 4
Row 9: Ch 1, Sc in each Dc around. Join with sl st to Ch 1.
Rows 10-17 Repeat Rows 2-9
Rows 18-23 Repeats Rows 2-7

Fasten off.

pattern: chunky circle scarf

i said to myself, i need a big chunky circular scarf to wear all the time.. and
this is what came of it.

i am putting this grey one in my etsy shop, and also, here is the pattern:
( this pattern is intended for personal use only, thank you! )

chunky circle scarf

you will need:

2 skeins of worsted weight yarn (i used caron simply soft) using both strands
at once throughout, otherwise you could use bulky weight yarn
10 mm crochet hook , or any large hook (i crochet quite loosely, so if you
don't, a hook larger than the one i used will work better)
large needle for weaving in ends

stitches used:
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
dc4tog: double crochet 4 stitches together: yarn over once, insert the hook
into the stitch, draw up 1 loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw
through 2 loops (2 loops remaining)
now leave those 2 remaining loops on the hook and yarn over once,
insert hook into the next stitch, draw up 1 loop (4 loops on hook),
yarn over, draw through 2 loops (3 loops remaining)
leave the 3 loops on hook, yarn over once, insert hook into the next
stitch, draw up 1 loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 2
loops (4 loops remaining)
leave the 4 loops on hook, yarn over once, insert hook into the next
stitch, draw up 1 loop (6 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 2
loops (5 loops remaining)
to finish the dc4together, yarn over once, and draw through all 5
loops at once.

dc7tog: double crochet 7 stitches together: same as dc4tog, but

instead of finishing off by drawing through all 5 loops, keep going
over next 3 stitches: leave the 5 loops on hook, yarn over once,
insert hook into the next stitch, draw up 1 loop (7 loops on hook),
yarn over, draw through 2 loops (6 loops remaining)
leave the 6 loops on hook, yarn over once, insert hook into the next
stitch, draw up 1 loop (8 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 2
loops (7 loops remaining) leave the 7 loops on hook, yarn over once,
insert hook into the next stitch, draw up 1 loop (9 loops on hook),
yarn over, draw through 2 loops (8 loops remaining)
to finish the dc7together, yarn over once, and draw through all 8
loops at once.

gauge:
4 rows are a little over three inches tall,
and one pattern repeat (10 stitches, the stitch patterns between the *'s) are
about 4 and a quarter inches long

finished size:
about 60 inches around, and 10 inches wide
using both strands of yarn at once, chain 131

(NOTE: i crochet quite loosely, so if your scarf is coming out too short, just
add multiples of ten chains to the original 131 chains)

row 1: turn. ch 1, 2 sc, *skip 3 chs, 7 dcs in next stitch, skip 3 chs, 3 scs* ;
repeat from * to * ending with 2 scs.

row 2: turn. ch 2. dc4together over (sc, sc, dc, dc), *ch 3, 3 scs, ch 3, dc7tog
over (dc, dc, sc, sc, sc, dc, dc)*; repeat from * to * across, ending with dc4tog
over (dc, dc, sc, sc), skip turning ch.

row 3: turn. ch 2. 4 dcs in dc4tog, *skip ch-3, 3 scs, skip ch-3, 7 dcs in
dc7tog*; repeat from * to * across, ending with 4 dcs in dc4tog, skip turning
ch.

row 4: turn. ch 1. 2 scs, *ch 3, dc7tog (over dc, dc, sc, sc, sc, dc, dc), ch 3, 3
scs*; repeat from * to * across, ending with 2 scs, skip turning ch.

repeat rows 1-4, 2 more times. do not bind off.

connect the two ends of the scarf to create a circle and slip stitch them
together. bind off and weave in ends.
Diamond Crochet Cowl
Posted on February 3, 2012 by moogly

Ive been admiring all the gorgeous crochet cowls out there lately
in stores, on Ravelry, and on my equally gorgeous friends. I couldnt
resist creating my own version, and with Valentines Day on the
horizon, I decided you cant go wrong with diamonds!
Ive been wearing it all over town, feeling fancy and getting
requests for more! With only 18 rows it works up in a few hours and
it makes a great treat for yourself or a gift for the neck of someone
you love. Best of all, it comes in two sizes, with all the info you
need to create custom lengths of your own!
Diamond Crochet Cowl
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

This cowl pattern starts with a fsc, but you can start with a row of
ch and a row of sc if preferred. The stitch pattern works with
multiples of 4, so its easily customizable if the given sizes arent
what you are looking for go all the way up around 140 for a really
long drapey cowl! UPDATED 9/5/12 Video Tutorial for this pattern
has been made!

Yarn: Worsted Weight Yarn, 210 yards (I happened to use two of the
thinner ww yarns.)

The black, neck-length sample is made with Red Heart

Shimmer.
The red, chest-length sample, is made with Naturally Caron
Country.

Hook: 5.5mm (I)

Sizes: See here to determine the length of your first row (fsc or ch):
 Neck-length (wears closer to the neck, more like a neck
cozy): Fsc 76
Chest-length (slightly longer, more open around the neck):
Fsc 84

Abbreviations:
Fsc - foundation single crochet
Fptrc2tog front post treble crochet two together

Row 1: Fsc 76 (84). Join with sl st to work in the round. (You can
use the tail to snug up the bottom of the fsc before weaving in
ends, so leave a few inches to work with.)

Row 2: Ch3, dc in next st and ea st to end of round. Join with sl st.

(Ch3 counts as dc)

Row 3: Ch1, sc in first 3 sts. Fptrc2tog over nxt st: working first
fptrc around the 2nd fsc in row 1 until 2 loops left on hook, skip 3
sc on row 1 and work second fptrc around 6th sc until 3 loops left
on hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops. *Sc in next 3 sts.
Fptrc2tog, working first fptrc around the base of the last fptrc, sk 3
sc and work second fptrc around next sc.* Repeat from * to * end,
join with sl st to the first st of the row.

Row 4: Ch3, dc in next st and ea st to end of round. Join with sl st.

Row 5: Ch1, sc in 1st st. Fptrc2tog, going around the tops of the
fptrc2tog of row 3 (where you joined the last 3 loops on the
hook), creating diamond shapes. Do this by sliding the hook from
right to left all the way under both of the post stitches, staying on
top of the background fabric. *Sc in next 3 sts, then Fptrc2tog* to
last 2 sts. Sc in last 2 sts, then join with sl st.

Row 6: Ch3, dc in next st and ea st to end of round. Join with sl st.

Row 7: Repeat Row 3, except go around the fptrc2tog tops.

Row 8-15: Repeat rows 4-7 twice.

Row 16-17: Repeat rows 4-5.

Row 18: Sc around, then use seamless join to finish off. Weave in
ends.
A closeup of the stitch pattern, so you can get an idea of how it
comes together:

And thats the Diamond Crochet Cowl! The larger size in particular has a tendency to
curl, which can be fun, but if you dont like that, Id recommend some steam blocking
to relax the fibers a bit. Post stitches create the amazing texture, and YOU can create
your own in just a few hours.
 Triple Play
Infinity Scarf
with

designed by Brenda Bourg

TECHNIQUE USED: Crochet

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Scarf measures approximately 14 1/2"/37cm wide

and 64"/162.5cm long

MATERIALS

Caron International's Simply Soft Light (100%

Acrylic; 3oz/85g, 334yds/306m):

#0013 Real Red: 2 skeins

One size US G-6 (4mm) , or size to obtain gauge

Yarn needle

GAUGE
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.

Repeat last 58 until scarf measures about 64"/162.5cm from beginning. Do not fasten off.

Trim

Row 1: Ch 1, pivot piece to work in ends of rows across long side edge, work sc evenly

spaced across long side edge of scarf, ensuring that you have a multiple of 6 sc, turn. Note:

The model has 192 sc worked across the long side edge. A multiple of 6 is any number that

can be calculated by multiplying 6 by another number. For example, 6 x 32 = 192.

Row 2: Ch 1, *sk next 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat

from * across. Fasten off. Join yarn at beginning of other long side edge and repeat trim

across that long side edge.

FINISHING

Lay scarf on flat surface. Flip one short end of scarf so that there is a twist in scarf. Sew

short ends together, maintaining twist. Using yarn needle, weave in ends.

Sa t u r d ay, O ct o b e r 27 , 2 012
FREE PATTERN: Seaspray Slippers (plus TWO new
patterns released!!)
I've got a free pattern for you all, but first I want to share TWO newly released
patterns in my etsy, ravelry, and craftsy stores!

The first is my Ruffly Baby Flats! These are so cute with their little ruffles and
their adorable shape.
And the next is my Ruffly Baby Boots, the boots version of the flats! These are
great for the colder days ahead, and they are so adorable!

Both of these patterns come in sizes 0-3 months, 3-6 months, and 6-12 months.
They also both come with complete photo tutorials (with pictures of every step
of every size), stitch explanations and abbreviations, gauge, and extra notes to
make the pattern easier to read!

So be sure to check these out: http://www.etsy.com/shop/jayscrochetboutique?

ref=si_shop

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/jays-boutique

Now for the free pattern!!

These slippers are very easy and quick to make - you could easily make them in
an afternoon. The greatest thing about them, though, is that with a change of
hook, you can make them smaller to fit a child. So they are very versatile, too!

I name these Seaspray Slippers because this is the same stitch that I used to
make my Seaspray Hat! It is a very fun, easy stitch once you get the hang of
it :)
 (The bottom doesn't have the cluster design, it is more
solid :)

Here's the pattern:

Materials:
150 yards worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Soft)
H (5mm) crochet hook or 4.5mm crochet hook (see notes below)
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Stitch Explanation
Cluster: (yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop,
yarn over and pull through 2 loops) 3x, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on
hook.
V-cluster: (note: v-clusters will always be worked between two cluster
spaces) Cluster, ch1, cluster, ch1.

Notes:
Crochet this slipper very tightly. I didn't have a 4.5 mm crochet hook at the
time, so I used an H. But if you have a 4.5mm, I suggest using it. If you do use
an H and crochet at a normal gauge, the slippers will turn out much too big!

Instructions
Magic ring.
1. Ch 3, (cluster, ch1) 5x into ring, sl st to top of ch-3.
2. Ch 2, 2dc in cluster, 2dc in ch1 space, 2dc in cluster, ch1, v-cluster in next 4
ch1 spaces. Sl st to top of ch2.
3. Ch 2, 2dc in next, (dc in next 2, 2dc in next) 2x, dc in ch1 space, ch 1, v-
cluster in ch1 space of next 4 v-clusters, sl st to top of ch2 space.
4-8. (or until the top section is the length you want it to be) Ch 2, dc in next 9,
ch1, v-cluster in ch1 space of next 4 v-clusters, slip stitch to top of ch2 space.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Turn work so that the top of the shoe is facing you (as pictured above). Now
insert your hook into the ch1 space between the clusters of the v-cluster on the
far left (as pictured below).
9. Ch 3, v-cluster in same space. Dc in next 9 dc's, ch1, v-cluster in next v-
cluster.

10. Ch 2, turn. V-cluster in same space. Dc in next 9 dc's, ch1, v-cluster in next
v-cluster.
Repeat round 10 until desired length.
Fold the back of slipper inside out and slip stitch down the fold (see two pictures
below). Fasten off, weave in ends.
Join yarn in center of back of shoe. Ch 1, sc around top of entire shoe. Sl st to
ch1 space.

11. Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Sl st to ch1 space.

12. Sl st in each stitch around. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Make another slipper, and you're done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! As with all my other patterns, no selling the
pattern itself or claiming it as your own. And if you sell the finished product, you
must link back to and give credit to this blog :) Thanks!
We d n esd ay, Oct o b er 31, 20 12
Ribbonberry Crochet Tutorial ~ A Versatile Stitch Pattern
~
It seems somehow unfeeling to sit in a warm, dry house and post a cheerful crochet pattern
on a day when so many people are suffering the effects of Hurricane Sandy. My prayers go
out for all who are hurt, without power, stranded, bereaved, or suffering the effects of
flooding.
~

What have you been crocheting lately? Here at Micawber Towers, Back Loop Slip
Stitch has taken over for the nonce.

It started with an idea for leg warmers (the Micawber ankles get veeery chilly in fall and
winter), and morphed into this versatile stitch pattern:

Ribbonberry

Back Loop Slip Stitch yields a very stretchy ribbed fabric. Throw in a few bobbly clusters
every other row, and amazing things begin to happen in terms of texture and visual interest:
Ribbonberry is completely customisable. One stitch pattern + different yarns and hook sizes +
variations in the amount of the ribbing stitches at either edge = all kinds of fun and warm
projects.

It makes a lovely cowl (pattern found below):

Or toasty mitts (click here for the post which explains how to make the mitts):

Or even leg warmers (these are a work in progress - pattern tips can be found here):
The Ribbonberry tutorial also features a special seaming method which produces an almost
invisible slip stitch seam.

A few words about slip stitch crochet: this is not the kind of crochet you can do while
watching TV instead of your hands. It takes a bit of attention, and some faithful row-
counting. Slip stitch projects grow slowly - but the results are well worth it. If you've never
tried slip stitch crochet (or have tried and given up in despair), give it a shot. Start with a
chunky yarn and a large hook, make a swatch or two, and see how fun and addictive it can
be.

And now to the important stuff....

Project Size: As big or small as you like!

Cowl sample is 6-3/4" wide by about 20-1/2" around
Mitt sample is 5-1/2" long
Leg warmer is 12" long, custom width

Yarn Requirements:
Any yarn can be used; quantity needed depends on project size and yarn weight. Here's how
much my projects took:
Cowl ~ About 110 yards of chunky yarn. (You could also use a double strand of medium weight
yarn to achieve a chunky effect. A cowl made from lighter weight yarn will use more.)
Mitts ~ About 50-60 yards of medium-weight yarn per mitt (very approximate)
Leg warmers ~ 100-150 yards per leg, depending on length and circumference

Yarns I Used:
Cowl ~ Lion Brand Baby's First (Weight Category 5, or Chunky), colour Fairy Tale
Mitts ~ NaturallyCaron Country (Weight Category 4, or Worsted), colour Spruce
Leg warmers ~ Stitch Nation Bamboo Ewe (Weight Category 4, or Worsted), colour Grape,
from a frogged project

How Did the Yarns Behave?

Lion Brand Baby's First (pink), though soft to the touch, makes a firm fabric. It's a bit stiff for
the cowl, but I think it will soften up in time; however, if I make another chunky cowl, I will
choose a softer yarn. The yarn tends to split if frogged and re-worked.
NaturallyCaron Country (teal) is a superb yarn for the price, with great stitch definition and a
lovely drape.
Stitch Nation Bamboo Ewe (purple), a wool/bamboo blend, has a lovely hand but can stretch
horribly when wet-blocked. I'm frogging a previous project that stretched out of shape, and
using the yarn for the leg warmers, hoping that they'll keep their shape (since the yarn is
already relaxed, so to speak).

Hook Size:
Use a hook size that is comfortable for you and gives a relaxed stitch that is easy to get your
hook into. Start with a larger hook than recommended for your yarn; swatching will help you
to determine the best hook size. If your stitches are loose and sloppy after several rows, go
down a hook size. If you struggle to get your hook into the loop while making a stitch, go up a
hook size.

Hooks I used:
Cowl ~ Size N/13, 9mm
Mitts ~ Size J/10, 6mm
Leg Warmers ~ Size J/10, 6mm

Notions:
Not applicable.

All crochet terminology is American.

Ribbonberry Chunky Cowl Pattern

(Click here for the post which tells how to make mitts or leg warmers.)

Super Important Tips: Keep your stitches LOOSE! Resist the urge to tug on the yarn. With
every slip stitch, insert the hook through the indicated stitch and keep sliding it through until
the thickest part of the hook is under the loop - then pull it back and make the slip stitch. If
you're a tight crocheter, make a conscious effort to pull up each loop a little taller than
usual.

Special Stitch Abbreviations:

Yo-sc (Yarn over-single crochet): yarn over, and make single crochet as usual, leaving 2 loops
on hook.
Yo-wsc (Yarn over-Wide single crochet): used when there is an extra loop on the hook. Yarn
over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 3 loops, leaving 2
loops on hook. (This is pretty much the same as a half-double crochet, except that you're
starting and ending with an extra loop on the hook.)
Wsc (Wide single crochet): used when there is an extra loop on the hook. Insert hook in
indicated stitch, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:
~Ribbonberry is made using an easy 4-row repeat. Rows 1 and 3 are "berry" rows, made up of
berry bumps and slip stitch "valleys"; rows 2 and 4 are slip stitch only "ribbon" rows.
~Berries will look very puffy when you make them, but will flatten out as more rows are
added.
~The ch-1 in the berry tends to tighten up; be careful not to skip over it when stitching the
following plain slip stitch rows.
~Berry rows will always be worked towards your starting yarn tail; plain slip stitch rows will
always be worked in the other direction.
Pattern Stitch:

A test swatch is strongly recommended. (Knotless ch 15 for a test swatch and make at least 8
rows of pattern stitch, changing hook size if necessary to find the best fit.)

To make a knotless chain, wrap yarn from left to right (or right to left if you're a left-handed
crocheter), across front of hook and around back, bringing tail back over working yarn and
towards you. Grasp the place where the strands cross, and gently start chaining.

For project, knotless chain (number of ribbing stitches x 2) + (multiple of 4 for

berries/vallies) + 1 for turning. Turn.

My cowl's top and bottom ribbing is 3 stitches wide, with 4 berry/valley motifs between the
ribbing, so I chained 23: (3 x 2 for ribbing) + (4 x 4 for motifs) + 1 for turning.

All stitches are made in the back loop unless otherwise indicated.

Row 1 (RS): Sl st 3. *Make berry: sc in next st, ch 1; yo-sc in front leg of sc just made; yo-wsc
in same space (3 lps left on hook). Sk 1 st, wsc in next st, sc in next st. Berry made. Sl st 4.
Valley made.* Repeat from * to * across until 3 st remain in row. (If you chained for an odd
number of berry/valley motifs, finish with berry, leaving 3 st remaining in row.) Sl st 3, ch 1,
turn. (A video demonstration of the berry stitch can be found in the tutorial below.)
Row 2 (WS): Sl st across.
Row 3: Sl st 3. *Sl st 4. Make berry as above over next 4 st.* Repeat from * to * across until 3
st remain in row. (If you chained for an odd number of berry/valley motifs, finish with sl st 4,
leaving 3 st remaining in row.) Sl st 3, ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Same as Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until cowl is desired length, ending with Row 3. Ch 1, but do not turn.

Mrs. Micawber's Nearly Invisible Slip Stitch Seam: Butt edges together. Remove hook from
working lp. With RS facing, insert hook from front to back, under 2 strands of starting ch st
edge lp. Place working lp back on hook; pull lp through. *Sl st in next st of final row, remove
hook from working lp, insert front to back through single strand of next starting ch st, replace
working lp on hook, pull through.* Repeat from * to * until seam complete, being careful not
to miss the last stitch on each edge. (A very short video demonstration of this seaming
method can be found in the tutorial below.) Cut yarn and tie off; weave in ends. Block if
desired.

How easy was that? :)

Ribbonberry Cowl Photo Tutorial with Instructions in Plain English

Be sure to read through the Super Important Tips, the Special Stitch Abbreviations, and the
Pattern Notes above. There will be a test at the end of this post. (Just kidding!)

I'm going to assume you're using the same number of stitches I did; however, feel free to
make your cowl wider or narrower. (If you do, the math is up to you.)

Don't Forget: All stitches are made in the back loop unless otherwise indicated!

Starting Chain
Knotless chain (number of ribbing stitches x 2) + (desired multiple of 4 for berries/vallies) + 1
for turning. TURN.

To make a knotless chain, wrap yarn from left to right (or right to left if you're a left-handed
crocheter), across front of hook and around back, bringing tail back over working yarn and
towards you. Grasp the place where the strands cross, and gently start chaining. (Don't tug on
the yarn end or you'll turn your first chain into a knot.)

My cowl's top and bottom ribbing is 3 stitches wide, with 4 berry/valley motifs between the
ribbed edges, so I chained 23: (3 x 2 for ribbing) + (4 x 4 for motifs) + 1 for turning.

(For a wider cowl, you could chain 26, which would give you 5 motifs between the ribbed
edges.)

Remember: The last stitch is your turning stitch, and the first stitch of Row 1 will be made in
the back loop of the NEXT stitch.

If you're wondering how to recognise the back loops, take a look at your chain. It should look
like a row of little Vs. The front loop is the one closest to you; the back loop is the farther
one. I've marked the first several back loops in my chain with dots in the photo below:
Let's make some ribbing and berries!

Row 1 (Right Side):

Starting in the second stitch from the hook, slip stitch 3:

Now it's time to make a berry. Each berry stretches across 4 stitches of the row below.

Berry
In the next stitch, single crochet, then chain 1. Find the front "leg" of your single crochet:
Yarn over-single crochet in front leg of single crochet...
(What? You didn't read the Special Stitch section? Here's a short review: yarn over, then make
a single crochet as usual. You will have 2 loops left on your hook.)

...Now yarn over-wide single crochet in same space (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull
through 3 loops, leaving 2 loops on hook:
Skip 1 stitch, then wide single crochet in the NEXT stitch (insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn
over, pull through all 3 loops on hook):

And finally, single crochet in the next stitch:

Your berry is done!

By special request, here is a (slightly fuzzy) video demonstration of the Berry stitch:

After making your berry, slip stitch 4:

And congratulations - you've pretty much conquered the pattern. Each berry makes a
bump or hill that stretches over 4 stitches, and is followed by a "valley" of 4 slip
stitches.
 Berry hills and slip stitch valleys

Keep making berries and valleys across until you have just 3 stitches left in the row. (My cowl
has an even number of berry motifs, so each berry row has 2 berries and 2 valleys. If you're
making a wider cowl with an odd number of motifs, your first berry row will have 3 berries
and 2 valleys, ending with a berry, and leaving 3 stitches remaining in the row.)

Here we are with just 3 stitches left (and no knot! I do like a knotless starting chain):

Slip stitch 3, chain 1, TURN. 22 stitches in row.

First row done! The rest will just fly.

Troubleshooting Row 1: If you have 1 stitch too many left at the end of the row, you probably
forgot to skip a stitch while making one of the berries. Go back and look at each one - you
should be able to lift the berry away from the row below and make sure there's a skipped
stitch beneath. Frog if necessary to fix the berry. If you are short 1 stitch at the end of the
row, go back and count your stitches. There should be 3 for the ribbing, and 4 for each berry
and valley. You may have accidentally added an extra stitch somewhere.

Row 2 (Wrong side):

Slip stitch across. That's it for Row 2!

Tips for Row 2:

~ Remember to skip the turning chain. When you turn at the end of the row, don't let the
yarn wrap all the way around; turn in such a way that the yarn stays behind the work.

~Watch out for the chain-1s in the berries from the previous row. They can tighten up and are
easy to miss.
~Holding the work vertically while you stitch can make it easier to see the back loops. (If you
hold your work vertically, you can insert your hook sideways, rather than front to back.)
When you get to the end of Row 2, be careful not to miss the last stitch. (You've been
counting your stitches, right? There should be 22, if you're making the same size cowl I did.)

Troubleshooting Row 2: If you're short a stitch, that means you skipped one. Slowly frog the
row back until you find the one you missed. If you don't see it, frog the entire row and count
the stitches to make sure there really are 22 stitches to begin with. If not, the mistake is in
the previous row and you'll have to frog back and fix it.

On to Row 3! (Which is pretty much the same as Row 1, except that after the ribbing stitches
a valley will come first.)

Row 3:
Slip stitch 3 for the starting ribbing,
then slip stitch 4 more to make the first valley.
(As you can see, the valley of Row 3 goes over the top of the berry in Row 1. This is how the
nice wavy pattern is made.)

Make a berry over the next 4 stitches:

Keep making valleys and berries across until you have 3 stitches left in the row. (If you
chained for an odd number of berry/valley motifs, you will finish with a valley, leaving 3
stitches remaining in row.)

Slip stitch 3 for end ribbing, chain 1, and TURN.

Row 4: Same as Row 2. (Slip stitch across.)

Repeat Rows 1-4 until cowl is desired length, ending with Row 3.

The cowl will grow quickly, especially if you're using a chunky yarn. Pretty soon you may feel
confident enough to try reading while crocheting...
...but take it from me, it doesn't work. With slip stitch crochet, you can look at your project -
or you can look at something else. Not both. If you look at something else, mistakes get
made. (This concludes today's sermon. All rise for the benediction. Or remain seated for
seaming.)

Ready to finish the cowl? Remember, you ended with a Row 3 (which is a berry row). Your
next row will be the final ribbon row that ties the two ends together.

At the end of your final Row 3, chain 1, but do not turn work.

Mrs. Micawber's Nearly Invisible Slip Stitch Seam:

Butt edges of cowl together. Remove hook from working loop.
With right side facing you, insert hook from front to back of starting chain stitch. Be sure to
insert hook under both strands:

Notice that the starting row is edged with single loops (these are the front loops of the
starting chain). In the photo above they are marked with dots.

Here's the hook, inserted into the starting chain stitch.

Now pick up the working loop with the hook...

...and gently pull it through the starting chain.

Now slip stitch in the NEXT stitch of the final berry row,
drop the loop from the hook,
and insert hook from front to back through a single strand of the NEXT stitch of the starting
chain.

Hook inserted. (The working loop is up there flapping in the breeze.)

Now follow the instructions in the photos:
Here is how your seam should look after the first few stitches:

Nearly Invisible!

If it all sounds horridly complicated (it's really not), here's a short (and silent) video which
may help:
Repeat these steps down the seam (slip stitch in next stitch of final Row 3, drop working loop,
insert hook through next stitch of starting chain row, put working loop back on hook, draw
through.) Be careful not to miss the last stitch on each edge.

And here it is: a cowl with gorgeous texture and a virtually invisible seam!

Cut yarn and tie off; weave in ends. Block if desired. Try on your cowl and snap a happy
photo of yourself. (A note on self-portraiture: for every ONE decent shot, there are about 45
out-of-focus or wrongly lit ones.)
Notice how nicely the ribbed edge stretches and conforms to your shoulders. If your cowl is
snug like mine, you can even fold it for a turtleneck effect. (About a mile back in the post,
there's a picture of me wearing it like this.)

In my next post I'll give some suggested stitch ratios for a pair of mitts or legwarmers.

You may do whatever you like with the items you make from this pattern, but you may not
sell the pattern. If you do sell items made from this pattern, please credit the designer.

If you have any questions, or find any mistakes in the pattern, please let me know using the
comment box below. You can also contact me in Ravelry as MrsMicawber.

Thanks for viewing, and happy slip stitch crocheting!

Free Crochet Pattern...Fiona Button Scarf!

The Fiona Button Scarf is a lovely piece for both fall

and winter and is crocheted lengthwise in a slightly
modified granny stripe. Two buttons join it together to
create a long loop like an infinity scarf, or wear it
unbuttoned for a traditional scarf. Versatile and
pretty, lofty and warm! No need to crochet button
holes either, just use the decorative holes from the
scarf.
Fiona Button Scarf
By Jennifer Dickerson

Materials:
N (9.0 mm) Crochet Hook

1-2 Skeins Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and

Quick (1 for the 45 inch and 2 for the 60 inch

version)
Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends and

sewing on buttons)
Two Buttons (Buttons shown are 1 inch wide,

test out your buttons before sewing them on by

slipping them through one of the holes to make
sure they fit)
Sizing:
Width: Scarf shown is 5 inches wide, a wider

scarf can be made by adding more rows.

Length: 2 lengths included in this pattern, 45

inches and 60 inches (scarf shown is 45 inches

long)
Instructions:

Ch 124 for a scarf that is 45 inches long

Ch 154 for a scarf that is 60 inches long

Foundation Row:
2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 1, *skip next 2 ch, 2 dc
in next ch, ch 1, rpt from * to last ch, putting only 1 dc
in last ch.

Row 1:
Chain 3 and turn.
Work 2 dc in the first space, then ch 1, *2 dc in the
next space, ch 1, rpt from * in each space across row
to second to last space. Work 1 dc in the last space
(turning chain space from previous row).
Repeat row 1 four more times (for a total of 5 rows)
for a scarf 5 inches wide. If you'd like a wider scarf,
simply repeat row 1 until scarf is desired width.

Finishing:
Weave in all ends and stitch buttons to one end of
scarf.

More free crochet patterns here...

Lots of crochet tutorials here too...

Crochet workshop: Fingerless mittens
Add to favorites
4K+
Make these fashionably stylish and practical fingerless mittens which are worked in a
decorative crochet stitch in cosy baby alpaca yarn. Designed by Erika Knight and
published in her latest book Crochet Workshop (see bottom of article for book details
and giveaway), the skill level is Intermediate and the mittens are one size, to fit an
average-size womans hand. The finished length is 38cm.

Click to enlarge

In this project you will learn

Practising half treble crochet
Working a horizontal thumb hole
Working pattern repeats

Stitches used
Half treble crochet; Treble crochet
Treble crochet bobbles

Materials
Rowan Baby Alpaca DK, a light double-knitting weight alpaca yarn, in one colour:
4 x 50g balls in light grey (208 Southdown)
3.5mm and 4mm crochet hooks

Tension
8 bobbles and 11 rows to 10cm measured over zigzag lozenge stitch using a 4mm hook.

Abbreviations
1 bobble = [yrh and insert hook in 1-ch sp, yrh and draw a loop through, yrh and draw
through first 2 loops on hook] 3 times all in same 1-ch sp, yrh and draw a loop through
all 4 loops on hook.
1 half bobble = [yrh and insert hook in 1-ch sp, yrh and draw a loop through, yrh and
draw through first 2 loops on hook] twice all in same 1-ch sp, yrh and draw a loop
through all 3 loops on hook.
yrh = yarn round hook

TO MAKE THE MITTENS

Foundation chain Using a 4mm hook, make 37 chain loosely.

Work a border of 2 rows of half treble crochet as follows:
Row 1 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook, 1 htr in each of remaining ch to end, turn.

Row 2 2 ch (counts as first htr), miss first htr, *1 htr in next htr; rep from * to end, then
work last htr in top of 2-ch at end, turn. 36 sts.
Continue in zigzag lozenge stitch as follows:

Patt row 1 (WS) 2 ch (counts as first htr), 1 htr in first htr, *miss 1 htr, work [1 htr, 1
ch, 1 htr] all in next htr; rep from * to last 2 htr, miss 1 htr, 2 htr in last htr, turn.

Patt row 2 (RS) 3 ch, 1 tr in first htr (counts as a half bobble), *1 ch, 1 bobble in next
1-ch sp; rep from * to end, 1 ch, 1 half bobble in top of 2-ch at end of row, turn. 16
bobbles and 2 half bobbles.

Patt row 3 2 ch (counts as first htr), *work [1 htr, 1 ch, 1 htr] all in next 1-ch sp; rep
from * to end, 1 htr in top of 3-ch at end of row, turn.

Patt row 4 3 ch (counts as first tr), *1 bobble in next 1-ch sp, 1 ch; rep from * to last 1-
ch sp, 1 bobble in last sp, 1 tr in top of 2-ch at end of row, turn. 17 bobbles.

Patt row 5 2 ch (counts as first htr), 1 htr in first tr, *work [1 htr, 1 ch, 1 htr] all in next
1-ch sp; rep from * to end, 2 htr in top of 3-ch at end of row, turn.

[Repeat patt rows 25] 4 times more.

Change to a 3.5mm hook and [repeat patt rows 25] 3 times more, so ending with a WS
row.

Mitten should now measure approximately 32cm from beginning.

Work thumb hole

Next row (RS) 3 ch, 1 tr in first htr, *1 ch, 1 bobble in next 1-ch sp; rep from * 6 times
more; 6 ch, miss next 2 1-ch sps, 1 bobble in next ch sp, **1 ch, 1 bobble in next ch sp;
rep from ** to end, 1 ch, 1 half bobble in top of 2-ch at end of row, turn.

Next row 2 ch, *work [1 htr, 1 ch, 1 htr] all in next 1-ch sp; rep from * 6 times more; [1
htr, 1 ch, 1 htr] twice in 6-ch sp, **work [1 htr, 1 ch, 1 htr] all in next 1-ch sp; rep from
** to end, 1 htr in top of 3-ch at end of row, turn.

Next row Rep patt row 4. 16 bobbles.

Next row Rep patt row 5.

Next row Rep patt row 2. 15 bobbles and 2 half bobbles.

Next row Rep patt row 3. Fasten off.

Work second mitten in exactly the same way.

To finish

Weave in any loose ends. Gently steam on wrong side. Sew side seams.

Masterclass

Working a horizontal thumb hole or buttonhole

The simplest way to work an opening, whether it is for a thumb hole or buttonhole, is to
miss a number of stitches in a row. At the position at which the hole is required, work a
number of chain stitches that will accommodate the thumb or the diameter of the button
(for these mittens, work 6 chain).
Miss the number of stitches for which you have worked chain, then continue in the
pattern. On the next row, work over the chain, making the same number of stitches as
there are chain.
Extract from Crochet Workshop
Learn How to crochet with 20 inspiring projects
by Erika Knight
Photography by: Yuki Sugiara
Photography copyright
RRP $39.99 Paperback
Quadrille Publishing May 2012
Distributed by Bookreps.co.nz
 CROCHET WORKSHOP

Crochet Workshop by Erika Knight is the perfect book for the beginner. Learn how to
crochet exquisite accessories and homewares with step-by-step instructions, diagrams
and gorgeous photos. There are 20 beautiful projects in this book, from cushions and
throws to slippers, purses and laptop covers. Each project teaches the reader a new
stitch, technique or trick, and builds on and consolidates crochet techniques already
learnt in the preceding projects. The end result is 20 beautiful crafts and a wide
repertoire of master crochet skills under your belt.