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Mobius Coils

[Note: This bulletin was first written many years ago, and has
sequential updates further down. My mobius coil practices have
changed slightly and evolved over time.]

Disclaimer: I am not an expert on mobius coils, merely offering my

impressions from a limited amount of fooling around with them.
This page will likely evolve over time.

There are many different types of mobius coils, most of which I

know little or nothing about.

Warning! Mobius coils are not necessarily inherently safe. Don Croft
said that the type of mobius coil he makes (single-knot mobius coil) is
safe, provided one either puts a crystal in it or places a boundary
wire around it. Otherwise it can cause undesirable energy phenomena.
He powers them with a 15hz frequency generator; I do not know
whether this caveat applies to passive (unpowered) mobius coils as
well. I am of the impression, though, that orgonite and/or water can
be substituted for a quartz crystal, as could various other stones.
Quartz is nevertheless very well-suited.

From a very interesting article at http://www.insightofnc.com

/articles38.htm:

Scalar waves are produced when two electromagnetic waves of the

same frequency are exactly out of phase (opposite to each other) and
the amplitudes subtract and cancel or destroy each other. The result
is not exactly an annihilation of magnetic fields but a transformation
of energy back into a scalar wave. This scalar field has reverted back
to a vacuum state of potentiality.

Scalar waves can be created by wrapping electrical wires around a

figure eight in the shape of a mbius coil. When an electric current
flows through the wires in opposite directions, the opposing
electromagnetic fields from the two wires cancel each other and
create a scalar wave.

Just don't ask me to define "scalar". I'm just the wire-bender.

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The best tutorial for making a continuous-knot toroidal mobius is

found on Jon Logan's site. Single-knot mobius coils are what Don
Croft uses, and there used to be a tutorial at cloud-busters.com, but
it was not entirely clear.
I confess I have as yet never made the latter, though some assert
they are more powerful. Intuitively, I really like the flowing quality
of the continuous-knot ones, which are also easier to make.

One characteristic of mobius coils is that they are highly responsive

to ambient energy input: the life-force in one's hands, for example.
For this reason, I have been wrapping wands with them, generally
using a simple spiral wrap around the pipe instead of the doughnut
shape. The doughnut shape is probably somewhat superior (better
output per unit of wire) but less wieldy or practicable in many
situations.
Al Gray swears by relatively small mobius coils out of thin wire for
his Triniti and other wands, in which he wraps several small coils
made out of one section of cable around the pipe. This is similar to
what is used in Power Wands. So far, I have not really used this
method, exactly.

A few tips I've learned from my unsystematic muddling so far:

It is not necessary to double the wire over twice; once will do

nicely (that is, make a 2-strand cable instead of the orthodox 4).
Many other experimenters have tried this, and I think we are
unanimous on this point. For me it is a matter of practicality; if 4 is
reasonably feasible, considering wire size, space available for it,
malleability of the resultant cable, etc., then I will use 4.
I have also made ones with 8 strands.

When twisting the wire: a tip from Kininigan: "Avoid resonance -

the 'standing wave effect' - as that puts excessive twists near the
chuck. Try varying the speed and tension. Always run the wire a little
slack, but not enough to 'curl up'."
I have inadvertently twisted off (broken) the cable before by using
too much tension. I was able to unravel the ends and reconnect them.
You want just enough tension to keep the cable from escaping out in a
sideways goiter.

For making doughnut-shaped ones, there is an optimal range of

length of the twisted cable. Meaning, if the twisted cable is too long,
it will be quite impracticable to feed it through itself. (But it can still
be used to wrap spirally around a wand, cylindrical HHG, bottle, etc.
More on this application later.)

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Wire type: Magnet wire (which has only a very thin coat of
insulation) I have found somewhat difficult to make the doughnut
variety with. When using heavy magnet wire, e.g. 14g, it is difficult to
bend smoothly. When using thinner wire, e.g. 20g, one should secure
the open-ended side, a few inches from the ends, in a clamp or
something, and chuck the closed end in the drill; otherwise the ends
wrap so tightly in the drill that they are near-impossible to elegantly
unravel to make the ends available for connecting.
[Update Aug. 24, '06: See note below about wire types.]

How to power them: The orthodox way is to use a low-voltage

frequency generator such as Don's Terminator zapper or a software
frequency generator such as the NCH toner, but I and others have
found these coils to be quite effective used passively (no juice) as
long as the circuit is closed i.e. the wire ends connected together.
This is very convenient for environmental gifts and sleek wands.
My preference for powering at this time is the earth battery, which
in this case is essentially 2 electrodes of different metals, e.g.
galvanized conduit pipe and copper pipe, stuck into the earth a couple
feet deep. In reasonably moist soil, this usually yields .6 to .8+ volt
but with the most wonderful energy quality. After being accustomed
to it, the 15hz zapper vibe felt intolerably wimpy and unpleasant to
me.
There may be voltage fluctuations, even polarity reversals at times,
moreso in some locations than others. A cheap multimeter is needed.

But some people who are less lazy than myself (e.g. Bruce Stenulson)
can do remarkable things with electrified frequency tuners, and
probably should.

However, I am speaking here of an earth battery that is a good

distance from 60hz electrical pollution, on well-orgonized ground. It
appears that in urban areas, the coil may resonate with the toxic
artificial frequency they like to feed us. At least someone reported
this impression. This might not be that bad, though, for orgone
devices buried in the ground; my impression is that it works
excellently that way even in a populated area. I feel the coil, etc. are
effective tools for converting harmful energy into benign. But
thought I'd mention it just in case.

One of the best things to put in the loop with a mobius coil is one
or more other mobius coils! Whether passive or powered by an earth
battery. I have not tried this with a frequency generator yet, but
Jon said that he had trouble getting the various coils (hooked up in

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series) in phase that way.

It doesn't seem to matter when plugged into the earth battery,
though; indeed I highly recommend putting several devices in series
on one loop fed by an earth battery. The coils feed off each other.

This coil is powered by such a circuit. Can you feel the vibe?

If you wrap the coil with aluminum foil or aluminum tape, it seems
to really improve the power. Al Gray got us started on that habit.
Lately I have been getting into wrapping with aluminum, then (a la
Reichian orgone accumulator) a layer of cellophane tape or electrical
tape. Note that some brands of electrical tape have a very dull
energy, and others very good energy; there is some cheap Taiwanese
tape around that I prefer.
Then (room providing) more layers, as described more fully below.

Spiral Wrap Mobius Coils:

[update 9/2006: I no longer make spiral mobius coils, and don't
recommend them except for wrapping wands that will be held in
hand. Otherwise, a short continuous-knot mobius around the
object will be much better.
In fact, a mobius strip (see below) is probably better than a
spiral mobius coil even for hand-helds.]

For many applications, a thinner profile is desirable. I like the energy

of a doughnut-shaped mobius around a crystal, but it is awkward to
hold in the hand, and, worse, difficult to cover with the hand, so as to

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maximize its uptake of one's personal chi. One way is to make a

series of smaller coils, as is done in a Power Wand or Al's creations.
Somehow, though, I've gotten into just doing a spiral wrap with the
twisted cable.
This is useful for a wand or a long crystal, but also for a cylindrical
orgonite creation, e.g. a CB base to be recast. I have also done this on
truncated-cone units, cast in a yoghurt cup or a tumbler.
Here's the way I've been doing spiral wrap mobius coils lately:

I double or quadruple over the wire and twist it in a

drill. Wrap it around the pipe or whatever in a
direction opposite to the twist.
Then tape it in place with aluminum tape. Then I
place one or more labyrinth pics (OTB 12) face
inward over the tape (I would have put them under
the coil, too, actually) and tack in place with bits of
clear tape. Then, as in a traditional orgone
accumulator, I cover the aluminum with a layer of
"organic" plastic, specifically, clear cellophane
packing tape or electrical tape, then copper foil. (I
happen to have some great copper foil, very dull and rough on one
side, and shiny on the other.) Using foil allows one to turn the shiny
side in. The rough side is yin, the shiny side yang; the objective in
some cases is to draw chi from the operator's hands into the pipe or
crystal, if that's what you are working with. It may not matter for
wrapping other devices, depending on what you are trying to make it
do, though personally, I like the centripetal, implosive kind of energy
further discussed in OTB 10. See OTB 9 for info on maximizing
copper foil.. Many layers.

If making a copper wand, you may wish to bare the wire ends and
tape them around the pipe, so the pipe itself is connected to the
wire. This also seems to benefit the energy. And one can always undo
the tape at the end, and temporarily connect the coil to an earth
battery or whatever if one desires.

The longest mobius coil I have made was with 500' of 14g plastic-
insulated wire, doubled over, i.e. probably close to 200' of cable
after the shrinkage resulting from doubling and twisting.) This was
spirally-wrapped one layer thick, taped in place with aluminum tape,
and the wrap continued back over the tape the other way. Repeated 3
or 4 times. Was it worth the hassle? Not until I then did my "eclectic
layering" using copper foil, tape, and labyrinths (see OTBs 9 & 12)
which amped it up big time.

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In February, 2004, Kininigin came out with the scarab coil. Here's a
tutorial. This is a fairly intense little passive coil. Some people make
smaller ones and wear them as rings, and credit them with amazing
powers. Some put them on the ends of CB pipes for an extra boost.

Personally, I much prefer the quality of the energy if I twist the

wires CW instead of CCW, and it feels stronger to me, too. Not being
particularly psychic, I don't know whether they lose their reputed
power against evil critters this way, though. I'm hoping someone will
try it and offer feedback someday.
Update July, 2006: With the advantage of greater sensitivity, I
now feel that yes, it is different, but I like it. I tried "sending" a
standard scarab coil into a demon, and found it weakened him
markedly. Not so with the variant I'd made with a reversed twist.

Kininigan suggests applying these

construction techniques to mobius coils,
too. I have done this with some small
mobius coils so far, and find it much easier
to make them this way (a caduceus wind
instead of the toroidal mobius wrap I was
using) plus they are stronger. Even with
the circuits broken as in the ones depicted
here. Especially when I add the little
passive outer spiral wraps you see here. I used 2 pieces of copper
wire, 6.66" long, one going CW and one going CCW for these latter.
Selenite is in the middle.

The coils, like the scarab coils proper, have a direction. If wound left
over right, as Kin suggests results in a coil in which the energy goes
mainly out the end away from where the wire ends end up. Also this
striated selenite has a definite direction, which I put agreeing with
the coils here.

I have also used this caduceus-style mobius technique to make mobius

coils around 1-gallon jugs to make an item as described in OTB 11.
Used about 30' of 18g on each one. Marked the centers of the
twisted section, excluding the ends. Wrapped the wires directly on
the bottle, which left them rather snug. I happen to have a bunch of
very small plastic ty-bands, and I slipped some of those under the
coils to cinch them in place. Seems to work quite well. Due to my
impressions with the scarab coils, I only use a CW twist (forward
mode with the drill).

Update May, 2005: A while back Archie shared with me a discovery

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he'd made: a mobius coil can be passively driven with a magnet. Put
one lead on the north end and one lead on the south. You need to be
able to discern WHICH lead goes on which end, as one will work a lot
better than the other.
Also, even a passive mobius alone will have a + side and a minus side.
You want to make sure the + side faces toward the business end of
the crystal.
Anyway, this magnet thing feels pretty impressive, if strong magnets
are used. I just did this with a stack of neodymium magnets. Also
taped a piece of hematite and a bismuth pellet to the mags for
synergy. This works well in conjunction with a potentiometer tuner
arrangement. Makes it much more powerful, but still needs no
electrical input.

Update August 2006: Lately I have become much better at dowsing,

even dowsing devices before I make them. And I have made a few
more mobes. Here are some points I would now emphasize:

The twist should always be done with the drill in reverse mode.
Though the other way is powerful, too, to me the reverse mode
makes a coil that has a quality of resolving discordancy, whereas the
forward mode makes a more discordant field that is slightly
uncomfortable to be around. In a regular mobe. In the scarab coil,
the forward twist actually feels mellower, but is not effective
against demons like the reverse twist. So either coil type, you want
to go reverse mode.
Also, when making a (non-scarab) mobius, you want to wrap the cable
with the same "twist" direction; it should go like the threads of a
screw.
I have not made any new scarab-type coils lately. I doubt they would
be better, and they certainly won't be easier to make, than my short
mobes.

Longer is not better. I don't care what your spam basket says. It
was sheer stupidity of me to make mobes hundreds of feet long. I
could have gotten better results much more cheaply and easily with a
short coil of dowsed length. And saved a lot of space, too. Al was
right.
Lately I am favoring (for 22g phone wire doubled over to make
4-strand cable) lengths of 9'3.5" and 27' 5". That's length of the
single strand before folding, not counting some extra length needed
for the 2 leads. The larger length is not superior except where a
longer coil is required to physically encircle a larger object.
Different lengths would apply for different gauge wire.

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The best thing to drive them is a low-voltage frequency driver with

more than one freq going into different coils. Perhaps a stereo.

Hooking up multitudes of mobes on a single circuit is excellent. In

series is far better than in parallel.

I have a screw-hook inside a cupboard. When I want to make a mobe,

I open the cupboard, use the hook to loop the wire over to draw it
straight, double it over and do it again. Then I put a bit of electrical
tape around the end that has the 2 leads and one loop. This I clamp
onto a solid object, and chuck the other end in the drill.

I had been taping the other end, too,

but someone wrote me with a better
idea: chuck a screw-hook into the
drill, and use that to twist the end
with the 2 loops.
Don't go too fast, and vary the
speed. Use just enough tension to
keep the wire from knotting up in a
sideways lump.

Now for something truly radical and

easy-to-do: Mobius Strips.

Some time back, Kneweyes put a remarkably

nice Trinity Wand right by the Skull and Bones
tomb. This has caused them considerable
distress.
I checked out this wand recently when I
neutralized their countermeasures to it. I was
amazed at how good its energy was. I asked
Kneweyes for the secret. She did a few things
differently, but mainly it was the mobius strip
that dowsed as the big factor.

Not wanting to make a coil, she had the idea

of wrapping aluminum tape in a mobius strip
around the 3 pipes.
Just leave a bit of end sticking out when you start the wrap, and
when you get to the end, turn it over and tape the 2 sticky sides
together. Flatten in place. [correction: see Sept. 2006 update
below]

On the last thing I made, I did the same thing around one of the

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stones in it, using narrow, silver-plated copper tape. For a number of

reasons, that unit came out as the best orgone device I've made yet,
and one big factor is this strip. I put a mobius coil around the strip,
too (this tape is too narrow to wrap over a coil with).

I recommend this highly, and expect to be incorporating more such

things in future devices.

How many turns should one go around before securing the ends? I
dowse that the best number is 4, with 2 being a very close second.
Three is not as good.

A friend sent me this pic, asking

if that is correct.

Yes, that's basically it. Though

I would call that 3 turns, and
get that 1 more would be good.
Also there is a bit too much
slack for my taste, but this is
just a demo photo to show what's going on.

This is how I have done it. This is 4

wraps of copper tape on a nice little
cylinder that I will re-cast in a
larger mold next time I pour epoxy.

As you can see, I started at the

bottom, leaving a "tail".
I am not sure it matters much
whether you go CW or CCW. I had the vague feeling that CW
ascending might be slightly better on this unit.

Wire types: Again, Al was way ahead of me on this. I now dowse that
the best wire is 24awg, whether solid or stranded, whether for
active or passive use. Followed closely by 22g.
This is good to know, because I have mainly found 22g sold as phone
cable with a second sheath of insulation around 4 or more separate
insulated strands. It is good stuff, and very inexpensive compared to
most wire, but it's a real hassle to remove the outer sheath without
scraping off some of the insulation around the separate wires inside.
Whereas, 24awg is often sold in spools of one insulated wire.
Beware, a lot of this stuff has flouride compounds like PTFE (Teflon).
It should be labeled as such, because this is a more expensive
feature. It may be called "shielded" or military grade or something

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like that. Artificial flouride compounds have a bad vibe, and this type
of wire is not recommended for energy devices!
Some wires are tinned or silver-coated. The additional metal coat is
desirable
I found some here. 5 sets make almost 1000' of wire, and with
shipping costs about what the last spool I bid on at eBay sold for
with shipping. The eBay spool was 1000' of tinned cu. The problem is
that most of what comes in the kits I got is in lengths of of 5
meters. Fortunately, this works out, as the best 24g lengths I dowse
as 6'5.5" and and 9'4" to 9'5", excluding leads. So one can get one of
each out of every little roll, and have just a few inches left over for
splicing onto sturdier lead wires.

Incidentally, when making any splices that will be buried under resin,
make sure the connection is real tight. Finding that your masterpiece
lacks continuity once cured is most disheartening. Either solder it, or
twist very tightly and "waterproof" the junction with silicone seal or
tape or something. What presumably happens is that hot resin likes
to seep into tight spaces like between wires, placing an insulative coat
where you don't want it.
I will be trying butt splices in my next pour. You can get a couple
dozen of these at any hardware store for a few bucks. You will also
need a crimping tool, such as is on most wire strippers. Crimp snugly.
I will be sealing the ends of the splice tubes with dabs of silicone
anyway, because I hate to gamble.
Here is a conversion table into mm wire sizes. I do not know what is
commonly sold in the way of European sizes around the range of
22-24awg, but I get that .54mm would be pretty ideal.

Update September, 2006: In the

pic, the splices are on the right. On
the left are wire connectors that
unplug. These are useful for hooking
up several coils in series. The
wire-strippers have crimping
sections near the tip. However, for
me these don't crimp hard enough.
The wires come loose under stress, unless I crimp with a sterner
instrument.

Note how the ends of the jaws on

these particular vise-grips apply
pressure in the right spot.
[Note Jan/'07: My problem was
just that the strippers I had were

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crummy. My new pair crimps

better.]

Although the smallest size I found

for such hardware is for 22g and
up, they will work for 24g.

Correction about mobius strips: What Kneweyes did, and what works
best, is to put the two bare sides of the tape ends together for
conductivity, and tape them in place with duct tape. This is
significantly superior to using the tape glue, because it is an
insulator. Unless you are using specialized metal tape with conductive
glue. But unless you are doing a single loop, or otherwise not having
the loops touch, you don't want conductive glue, either, because you
do want insulation between the layers. I think a strip made with bare
metal against bare metal will work, but not nearly as well.
This means also that one should beware of shorting out the strip by
folding bare sections of ends over the bare wrap; one can put tape
over the section which will be under the bare end.

Also recently I found that silk is superior to metal for mobius strips.
Narrow silk ribbon is available on eBay, not expensive. Again, it is
probably best to have the ends touching without glue.

The ribbon is very narrow, about 1/8", and awkward to work with
unless you have good eyes and nimble fingers. I just position the ends
and tape into place

Update December, 2006: I have recently converted all my units

that were running on earth battery power to magnet drive, that is,
using Archie's ingenious magnet trick as described above in the May,
2005 update. Actually, it is not necessary to use a stack of strong
magnets. I just used a single modest bar magnet for each unit. The
important thing is to get the orientation right. In fact, any time you
build an orgone device, there is always an optimum position for any
component. It will still work OK if you do it any old way, but it will
work a lot better if you position stuff exactly where it is optimum.

My impression at this time is that magnets work just as well, possibly

better, than earth batteries. And importantly, there is no
maintenance, no messy wires running along the ground to trip over.
Actually, speaking of maintenance, if you have mobius devices sitting
for lengths of time, it is good to occasionally check continuity, no
matter what you have driving the coils. Sometimes the connections
might get slightly oxidized or something, breaking the circuit. Simply

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unplugging and replugging wires usually fixes this.

[Note Jan/'07: My main problem here may have been that I didn't
fully seat the connectors. When I tried this, I found that a couple
connections wouldn't seat, because the male prong was not even
inside the metal part in the female end.]
Since there is a big difference in the energy of an energized coil and
a disconnected one, it is particularly easy for me to dowse this
remotely. But if you are not able to do this, it is wise to occasionally
"refresh" all connections.

Another idea that I have used to advantage is to cast the coil-driving

magnet right into the unit when you build it. Just make sure all
connections are secure first, with connections taped or otherwise
protected from resin seeping in during construction. And don't let
the resin overheat.

Update January 16, 2007: I

haven't built any more devices
lately, but a friend sent this pic
and asked if there was a difference
in energy between these 2 versions.
Yes, the one on the left feels
significantly better to me.
Whether this always holds true in all applications, I'm not sure.
When I make stuff, I normally dowse everything I have a choice on.
If one is using a mold of 4.8" diameter, one does not usually have the
option of making it 4.7" or 5" so I go with the 4.8", but whenever I do
have an easy choice between one or more ways to do something, I
usually try to dowse what's best in that particular project. When I
placed the mobius strips in my devices, I dowsed the number of turns
(though what is practical may have a bearing on whether I choose 2
or 4 turns, for example). I dowsed whether the turns should be CW
or CCW ascending.

But it does seem to me that, at least

on a simple strip like the one above,
the left one is superior. On this one,
one can discern (with some slight
difficulty,) that I made it CW
ascending on the wrap, but with the
end folded in the same manner as
the right side in the pic he sent. It
probably did not occur to me to check which was was best, but now I
get that it would have been better the other way.

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Update June, 2008: Four strands or two? More recently I have

almost always used 2. Not because 2 is energetically superior, per se.
I think 2 or 4 makes no difference, except in terms of logistical
practicalities.
Most of the mobes I make these days are very short in terms of wire
used. At least in proportion to the overall coil diameter.
As you can see here, the blue coil only makes about 2.3 loops around.
And has 2 strands to the cable. If it had 4, the same length of wire
would be approximately half as long, and thus would only go around
once. I get that 2 full loops is all that is usually necessary. Less than
2 would not give full function.
I always dowse the length of the wire these days, for a particular
application. Often there are several lengths in different ranges that
are suitable. So I usually try to pick the length that is shortest, as
long as it will also make at least 2 full loops.
The items I have made with such coils turn out very intense (probably
in part because I don't waste internal space with useless excess
wire). And another advantage of short mobes is that it is real easy to
re-size them to fit your application. Try adusting the diameter on a
mobe made with 30' of wire, and you'll see how challenging and
time-consuming that can get.
As far as the figure-8 "infinity" mobes depicted elsewhere on this
site, I have only made them with 2-strand as well. I see no advantage

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there for more strands. However, I often do more than 2 figure-8s.

So ordinarily I
have absolutely
no reason to
make a
4-strand cable.
Although, on
rare occasions,
it may dowse as
better for a
particular
application, as
might a cable
that goes
around the loop
several times.
Another
exception is
what I term an interface coil. This is a 4-strand coil that actually
consists of 2 separate circuits. This creates an energetically-
intimate interface between 2 circuits that is not electrically
conductive. So one could, for example, have a non-electric circuit
using the yellow mobe, thus married to the red mobe that has a
555-timer device pumping juice through it.
Of course I'm a wild man who, in this instance, put a separate passive
"electronic" circuit (OTB 30) on each mobe which is beyond most
people.

Loohan

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