Footwear Lab Testing Guidelines

FOOTWEAR LABORATORY TESTING MANUAL
INTRODUCTION
Caleres is committed to providing customers with safe and quality products. As part of this
commitment, Caleres has developed this Footwear Laboratory Testing Manual (the
“Manual”), which sets forth safety and quality standards for all Caleres material suppliers,
sourcing agents and other vendors (collectively “Suppliers”). Each Supplier is required to
acknowledge, understand, agree to, and comply with the Manual.
Caleres focuses on doing business with those Suppliers who share its commitment to
responsible business practices. Caleres embraces the concept of continual improvement.
To that end, Caleres encourages its Suppliers to promote best practices and to
continuously work towards improving their quality control and production procedures. At
all times, however, Caleres expects its Suppliers to consistently meet or exceed the
requirements in this Manual.
Caleres believes that a successful continual improvement process is based upon a

foundation of transparency and collaboration. Accordingly, it is essential for Caleres
representatives to have full access to its Suppliers’ facilities, employees, and records.
Caleres’ values – including personal accountability, passion, creativity, curiosity, and

caring– are the foundation for its continued success. This Manual provides objective
criteria to reinforce these values in our sourcing operations. Of course, Suppliers must not
only meet the requirements in this Manual, they must also remain up to date with industry
and consensus standards and comply with all applicable laws, statutes, regulations, rules,
ordinances, standards and codes currently in force or hereafter enacted, applicable to the
manufacture, assembly, packaging, labelling, transportation and quality of the subject
products, including components thereof. Examples of applicable laws for the U.S. market
includes the federal and state laws outlined in A Guide to United States Footwear
Compliance Requirements, prepared by Standards Coordination Office of the National
Institute of Standards and Technology. In addition, Caleres adopts the product safety
recommendations of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (“FDRA”),
including the FDRA Chemical and Physical Testing Guidebook 2014.
For added clarity, this Manual governs the production of all Caleres wholesale brands and
all Famous Footwear first cost imports, and it shall apply to both internally and externally
sourced footwear. For private label products, this Manual and any customer-specific
requirements will apply (sometimes noted herein and as updated from time to time).
Thank you for your cooperation in ensuring that Caleres meets or exceeds its commitment
to provide safe and quality footwear.
This Manual contains confidential information intended only for use by Caleres Inc., its affiliates and their
approved vendors. (May 2015)
June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 1 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

Administration rules – SOP (Standard Operating Procedures)
I. External Suppliers
o Must do all pertinent lab test reports
o Only allow shipments when merchandise passes laboratory standards
o Must have report copies available for 6 years
o Must be able to provide lab report copy to Caleres on demand
o Report must be provided within 5 business days upon request
o A passed report does not release supplier from
 product liability claims
 government fines or sanctions
 see PO terms & conditions for more details http://www.caleres.com/potc.pdf
II. Internal Suppliers

A. Samples
1. Product Development & material team
 Responsible to share this Manual with new Suppliers
 Must have new materials tested by Caleres lab
 Must review any new requirements with Caleres lab team
2. Material component testing - Production Purchase Orders
 Mass production materials
 30 days before XF
 Component test for each color
 For all kinds of materials and each colorway provided by shoe factory
 Parts folder provided in multiple submissions
Component samples Sample quantity/size (A4 = 8 ½” x 11”)
4 pieces of 30 cm X 30 cm
Upper
select from different rolls or skins - for each colorway
Outsole 4 pairs (select from different sizes)
Upper lining 4 pieces of A4 size (select from different rolls)
Sock lining 4 pieces of A4 size (select from different rolls)
Counter Lining 4 pieces of A4 size (select from different rolls or skins)
Buckle 10 pieces
Eyelet 10 pieces
D-Ring 10 pieces
Ornament 10 pieces
Hook & Loop Strap 2 strips with size > 6 cm X 20 cm
Shoe lace 2 pairs
Gore 50 cm long
EVA midsole 2 pairs
Zipper 12 pieces
Heel 6 pieces
Toplift 6 pieces

 Materials tested
o Outsole / Heel / Toplift / Heels
 Tested for all listed tests
 Initial test is 1 pair and more done as needed
o Upper materials
 Tested for all listed test
o Accessories and ornaments
 tested for all listed test
o “Critical” testing = test more
 high heels, top-lift, outsole slip resistance, toe thongs, nail pin
3. Production finished shoes

 From 1st production / cutting die test
 Use “Parts folder” submission form
 3 pair of each color each style
 If >= 3 colorways then 3 pair of lightest & 3 pair of darkest color
 Use section 4 “COMPLETE SHOE” testing
 All tests based on construction & special features
 Completed shoes must be resubmitted for every 30,000 pairs
4. Restricted substances – see section 5

 Suppliers are not to use Restricted Substance (Chemicals)
o Include tier 2 suppliers also (e.g., tanneries)
 Phthalates (e.g. PVC plasticizer)
o Random sampling done
o On finished shoes
o Tested by outside lab (e.g., BV)
o Failure = shipment rejection
o Some customers require each pattern tested (e.g., Walmart)
 Lead
o Every material sample tested
o Done using X-Ray Fluorescence Spectrometer
o By Caleres lab in Dongguan or Putian
 Cadmium
o All metal samples tested
o Done using X-Ray Fluorescence Spectrometer
o By Caleres lab in Dongguan or Putian
 Chromium, Formaldehyde, Hexavalent Chromium & Azo Dyes
o On finished shoes
o Random sampling done
o outside lab (e.g., BV)
o Failure = review customer standards & destination country

B. Process
 Material suppliers to self-test
 Caleres lab test Certified Factories
o can do physical self-test
o not chemical testing
o provide reports to Caleres
 Non certified factories must use Caleres lab
 Caleres (SATRA Certified) labs charges US$70 per style
 Caleres maintains all reports on file for 6 years

Laboratory Tests -Table of Contents

Section Content Page
1.0 Uppers & Lining
1.1 Leather 6
1.2 Synthetic 7
1.3 Textile 7
1.4 Leather 8
1.5 Synthetic 8
1.6 Textile 9
2.0 Outsoles 10
2.1 Rubber 10
2.2 EVA 11
2.3 Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR) Outsoles 12
2.4 Expanded Poly Urethane 13
2.5 PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) & PCU (Polyvinyl Copolymer United) 14
2.6 German 15
2.7 Leather 16
2.8 TX Traction 16
2.9 Careers for Wal-Mart 17
2.10 EVA midsole 18
3.0 Components 19
3.1 Foam sock 19
3.2 Lace 19
3.3 Elastic 20
3.4 Hook & Loop tapes 20
3.5 Zippers 20
3.6 Trim including buckle 21
3.7 Insole board 21
3.8 Heels 22
3.9 Top lift 23
4.0 Speciality 24
4.1 Waterproof shoes 24
4.2 Work boots 24
4.3 Washable 24
5.0 Complete shoe/construction 25-26
6.0 Restricted Substances – Chemicals 27
7.0 Part folder form 28
All Tests are mandatory unless designated as “Secondary” below
“Critical” designations are defined pursuant to Juran’s Quality Control handbook,

Classifications of Characteristics at Table 16.3

1.0 Uppers & Linings
1.1 Leather Uppers

Property Test method Minimum requirements
1.1.1 Tear Strength Pig skin 0.8-1.0 mm ≥ 4.0 kg

The tear strength of the leather itself 1.0 -1.2 mm ≥ 5.0 kg
SATRA TM 162
will depend on its thickness 1.2-1.4 mm ≥ 6.0 kg
Kid skin 0.5-0.9 mm ≥ 3.0 kg
ASTM-D 2212 (2000) Other leathers
Reinforcement recommended for any 0.6-0.8mm ≥ 5.0 kg; 0.8-1.0mm ≥ 6.0 kg
leather which has tear strength less 1.0-1.2mm ≥ 7.0 kg; 1.2-1.4mm ≥ 8.0 kg
than 10 kgf 1.4-1.6mm ≥ 9.0 kg; 1.6-1.8mm ≥ 11.0 kg
For the complete upper including any 1.8-2.0 mm≥ 13.0 kg; 2.0-2.2 mm≥ 15.0 kg
linings, interlinings or reinforcements Minimum 10 kgf with reinforcements
1.0-1.2 mm ≥ 15.0 kg/cm2;

1.2-1.4 mm ≥ 20.0 kg/cm2;
1.4-1.6 mm ≥ 25.0 kg/cm2;
1.1.2 Bursting Strength
ASTM-2210 (1993) 1.6-1.8 mm ≥ 30.0 kg/cm2;
(Secondary)
1.8-2.0 mm ≥ 35.0 kg/cm2;
2.0-2.5 mm ≥ 40.0 kg/cm2;
Kid / Pig Skin ≥ 15.0 kg/cm2
150 kgf/cm2
1.1.3 Tensile strength SATRA TM 43
(125 kgf/cm2 for finished and coated splits)
(Secondary) ASTM-D2209 (1995)
May need backer to meet.
No damage to surface
SATRA TM 55 Room temp after 50,000 flexes
1.1.4 Flexing Resistance Cold Flex after 20,000 flexes
Bally Flex  At -10C for boot or closed up shoe
 At -20C for snow boot
Uppers
Dark Color Suede Leather, Nubuck, Finished
Leather: Dry ≥3.0 Grade, Wet ≥ 2.0 Grade
Exception: Color Shade ≤ 2.0: Dry ≥ 2.0 Grade
Unlined (back side of leather upper)
1.1.5 Color fastness to Rubbing
SATRA TM 167 Dark Color Suede Leather, Nubuck, Finished
Crockmeter
Leather: Dry ≥3.5 Grade, Wet ≥ 3.0 Grade
For Shoe Upper AATCC 8 Exception Color Shade ≤ 2.0:
Dry ≥3.5 Grade, Wet ≥ 3.0 Grade, if result in
2.0-3.0 grade, suggest add "Disclaimer"
Metallic Coated Film
Dry ≥ 3.0 Grade, Wet ≥ 2.0 Grade
Without Coated Film: Dry ≥ 2.0 Grade
1.1.6 Perspiration fastness (foot side – SATRA TM 335 No worse than grey scale 3
unlined) Dark colors variances considered
1.1.7 Abrasion Resistance SATRA TM 163/ASTM H-18 wheels/1000 g loading
Taber method Recommended for D3884 No worse than moderate wear at 2000 revs
performance athletics only
1.1.8 Water resistance Maeser test
SATRA TM 34 Good 15,000 flexes
(when applicable)
1.1.9 Peel strength of coated leather
SATRA TM 416 > 8 kg/3cm (Only For Coating Leather)
e.g. Action Leather

1.2 Synthetic Uppers (Including PU and PVC coated fabrics)

Normal PVC & PU:
SATRA TM 30  Children's / Hikers / Work : 4.5 kg
1.2.1 Tear strength  Dress / Casual / Athletic : 3.6 kg;
For stretch PU use TM162
 Infant : 2.6 kg
Stretch PU: weft: 5.0 kg, warp: 6.0 kg
No damage to surface
Room temp after 50,000 flexes
Cold Flex after 20,000 flexes
1.2.2 Flexing Resistance SATRA TM55
 At -10C for boot or closed up shoe
 At -20C for snow boot
Suede PVC, PU & LAMY PVC, PU

Dry ≥2.5 Grade, Wet ≥1.5 Grade
Exception Color Shade ≤ 2.0:
Dry ≥ 2.0 Grade
1.2.3 Colour fastness to rubbing SATRA TM 167 – Performance varies for these non-preferred
crockmeter method AATCC-8 materials. QC/Division may give exemption or
require consumer warning / disclaimer.
Metallic PU Coated with Film
Dry ≥ 3.0 Grade, Wet ≥ 2.0 Grade
Without Coated Film Dry ≥ 2.0 Grade
1.2.4 Colour fastness to light
(exposure 12 hours at 50C/300watt ASTM D1148 ≥ 4-5 Grade For White Or Light Colors
sunlight)
No Color Change After 24 hours
1.2.5 Contact storage test for
SATRA TM343 For Underlay And Overlay Material with
discoloration
Contrast
1.3 Textile Uppers

7.0 kgf for sports/performance
4.5kgf for everyday men’s & children’s
1.3.1 Tear strength – 2014 SATRA TM 30 3.5kgf for fashion/occasional men’s, women’s
& children’s
2.6kgf for infants footwear
No damage to surface/threads
1.3.2 Regular flexing SATRA TM55 – Bally Flex
after 50,000 flexes
After 10 rubs
Gray scale no worse than
1.3.3 Colour fastness to rubbing SATRA TM 167 –
 Dry 3
- crockmeter method AATCC-8
 Wet 2

1.4 Leather Linings

1.4.1 Colour fastness to rubbing SATRA TM 167 –  No worse than grey scale 3.5 dry & 3.0 wet
crockmeter method AATCC-8 at 10 rubs
1.4.2 Perspiration fastness SATRA TM 335  No worse than Grey Scale Rating 3
see note AATCC-15 (1997)
Counter lining: No worse than Moderate damage or
slight pilling in dry condition testing (12 KPA load)
Heavy duty 51,200 revolutions
1.4.3 Abrasion resistance Medium duty 25,600 revolutions
Martindale Test SATRA TM 31, Method Light duty 12,800 revolutions
A Sock Lining: Only Moderate damage or slight pilling
see note in Dry condition testing (12 KPA load)
Heavy duty 25,600 revolutions
Medium duty 12,800 revolutions
Light duty 6,400 revolutions
Note – Performance varies for these non-preferred materials. QC/Division may give exemption or require consumer warning / disclaimer
1.5 Synthetic Linings (including PU and PVC coated fabrics)

1.5.1 Colour fastness to rubbing SATRA TM 167 – No worse than grey scale 3.5 dry and 3.0 wet
SATRA TM 335
1.5.2 Perspiration fastness No worse than Grey Scale Rating 3
AATCC-15 (1997)
Counter lining
Only Moderate damage or slight pilling in dry
condition test with 12 KPA load
 Heavy duty 51,200 revolutions
 Medium duty 25,600 revolutions
 Light duty 12,800 revolutions
1.5.3 Abrasion resistance SATRA TM 31, Method A Sock Lining
Only Moderate damage or slight pilling in Dry
condition testing (12 KPA load)
Air Permeability Pressure in the receiver

1.5.4 “Breathable” Lining ASTM-D737 cavity after 60 second =2 psig. Full transfer
(from face side toward backer)

1.6 Textile Linings

1.6.1 Colour fastness to rubbing SATRA TM 167 – No worse than grey scale 3.5 dry and 3.0 wet
1.6.2 Perspiration fastness
SATRA TM 335 No worse than Grey Scale Rating 3
to color transfer
AATCC-15 (1997)
See note for microfiber
Counter lining: Moderate damage or slight
pilling in dry condition testing (12 KPA load)
1.6.3 Abrasion resistance  Light duty 12,800 revolutions
SATRA TM 31, Method A
Martindale Test Sock Lining: Moderate damage or slight
pilling in Dry condition testing (12 KPA load)
Note: Performance varies for this non-preferred material. QC/Division may give exemption or require consumer warning/disclaimer.

2.0 Outsoles
2.1 Rubber Outsoles
2.1.1 Hardness (Shore A) ASTM D2240  Men's 65±5

Minimum varies for specific designs  Women / Boys 60±5
SATRA TM 205
QC/Division may give exemptions  Children / Infant 55±5
SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC  No cracking after 50,000 flexes
2.1.2 Flexing endurance
Ross flex method
SATRA TM 60 @ -10ºC  No cracking after 20,000 flexes
2.1.3 Flexing endurance – BATA Belt

SATRA TM 133  No cracking after 50,000 flexes
method (for cleated soles) (Secondary)
 Every day 250mm3 maximum
2.1.4 DIN Abrasion resistance SATRA TM 174  Performance 150mm3 maximum
 Indoor use 500mm3 maximum
 Every day: no worse than slight marking
after cleaning (3 grade)
2.1.4 Non-marking PVC & WOOD TILE (1997)
 Labelled as non-marking
no marking before cleaning (4 grade)
ASTM D1148 (12 Hours*50
2.1.5 Anti-Yellowing  ≥4-5 Grade For White Or Light Color
ºC*300 Watt sunlight
 Normal: Dry 0.5 Wet 0.3
 Skid Resistance: Dry 0.7 Wet 0.4
 TX Traction Dry: 0.7 Wet 0.4
 Careers for Wal-Mart
2.1.6 Static Skid Resistance ASTM-F1677 (1996) Quarry tile Dry & Wet ≥0.68
Oily low contaminant or
Oily + wet low contaminant ≥0.38
Oily high contaminant or
Oily + wet high contaminant ≥0.38
 Indoor slippers ≥ 30 index
2.1.7 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1670
 others ≥ 70 index

2.2 EVA Outsoles

2.2.1 Hardness (Asker C) ASTM D2240  Men & Women & Boys : 65±5,
Minimum varies for specific designs
QC/Division may give exemptions
SATRA TM 205  Children & Infant: 55±5
SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC
 No cracking after 50,000 flexes
2.2.2 Flexing endurance – Ross flex Flexes?
method SATRA TM 60 @ -10ºC
Flexes?
 Light use (e.g. beachwear) 400 mm3 max.
 Everyday 350mm3 max.
2.2.4 DIN Abrasion resistance SATRA TM 174
 Hiker 250mm3 max

 Normal: dry 0.5 min., wet 0.3 min.
2.2.6 Static Skid Resistance ASTM-F609 (1996)
 Skid Resistant: dry 0.7 min. wet 0.4 min.
 Every day > 30 index
 Slipper > 15 index
2.2.7 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1630  Hiker > 50 index

2.3 Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR) Outsoles

2.3.1 Hardness (Shore A)  Blown & Regular: 50~55 Shore A
ASTM D2240
Minimum varies for specific designs  Air TPR: 58~63 Shore A
QC/Division may give exemptions SATRA TM 205
 Solid: 70~75 Shore A
SATRA TM 60 @ 5ºC
Flexes?
SATRA TM 174
2.3.4 DIN Abrasion resistance  270 mm3 maximum
ISO 4649
ASTM D1148 (12 Hours*
2.3.6 Anti-Yellowing  > 4-5 Grade For White Or Light Color
50 ºC*300 Watt sunlight)
2.3.8 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1630  ≥ 45 index

2.4 Expanded Polyurethane Outsole

2.4.1 Hardness (Shore A) ASTM D2240
Minimum varies for specific designs  45 – 75
SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC
Flexes?
 Everyday 300mm3 maximum
 Performance 250mm3 maximum
Conditioning = 7 days  Critical properties continue to meet
2.4.5 Hydrolysis resistance ageing at 70ºC / 95% minimum requirement. Test Abrasion &
relative humidity Flexing with < 10% change

2.5 PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) & PCU (Polyvinyl Copolymer United) Outsole

2.5.1 Hardness (Shore A) ASTM D2240  Solid 42 – 77
QC/Division may give exemptions SATRA TM 205  Expanded 35 minimum
SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC ?  No cracking after 50,000 flexes

2.5.2 Flexing endurance – Ross flex
method
SATRA TM 60 @ -10ºC ?  No cracking after 20,000 flexes

 Expanded PCU: 300mm3 max
 Others: 270mm3 max
 Regular PCU ≥ 50 index
SATRA TM221/ASTM D
2.5.8 NBS abrasion resistance  Air PCU ≥ 40 index
1630
 PVC ≥ 70 index

2.6 German Outsole

2.6.1 Hardness (Shore A) ASTM D2240  < 93 Degree
SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC
Flexes?
2.6.4 DIN Abrasion resistance SATRA TM 174  < 350 mm3 max.
SATRA TM221/ASTM D
2.6.8 NBS abrasion resistance  ≥ 40 index
1630

2.7 LEATHER OUTSOLES (Genuine & Bonded)

“Bonded” leather, SATRA
2.71 Abrasion resistance  “Bonded” leather 450mm3 maximum
TM 174
SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC  6 mm max. cut growth after 50,000 flexes

2.7.2 Flexing endurance – Ross flex
method
SATRA TM 60 @ -10ºC  6 mm max. cut growth after 20,000 flexes

2.8 TX TRACTION OUTSOLE

ASTM D1630
2.8.1 Abrasion Resistance ≥ 100 index
SATRA TM 221
2.8.2 Oil Resistance ASTM D-471 < 12% (Volume Swell)

Dry ≥ 0.7
ASTM-F1677 Wet ≥ 0.4
2.8.3 Skid resistance
(MARK II method) Oily ≥ 0.2
Oily+ Wet ≥ 0.2
2.8.4 DIN Abrasion Resistance SATRA TM174 <250mm³
2.8.5 Anti-Yellowing ASTM - D1148 4-5 Grade For White Or Light Color

2.9 CAREERS Outsoles for Walmart

Property Test Method Minimum requirements
2.9.1 Oil Resistance

For Walmart USA & CANADA
(when outsole has oil & slip resistance ASTM-D471
< 12% (Volume Swell)
markings / claim)
For Walmart USA

Dry:≥ 0.68, Wet≥ 0.68,
2.9.2 Static Skid Resistance
ASTM F1677 Oily (Low Contaminant)≥ 0.38,
(when outsole has oil & slip resistance
(MARK II METHOD) Oily + Wet, Low Contaminant)≥ 0.38;
markings / claim)
Oily, High Contaminant≥ 0.33;
Oily + Wet, High Contaminant ≥ 0.33
For Walmart CANADA

2.9.3 STATIC SKID RESISTANCE
Quarry Tile & Stainless Steel For
(WITH OIL & SLIP RESISTANCE EN ISO 13287
Forward & Heel Part):
MARKING)
Dry:≥ 0.4, Wet≥ 0.4,
ASTM D1630 ≥ 70 Index (For Walmart USA)

2.9.4NBS ABRASION RESISTANCE
SATRA TM221 ≥ 100 Index (Walmart CANADA)
6 mm Max Cut Growth After 50,000
Cycles (Room Temp)
2.9.5 FLEXING TEST SATRA TM60
6 mm Max Cut Growth After
20,000Cycles(-10C Temp)
2.9.6 HARDNESS Men's 65+/-5 Shore A
ASTM D2240
(GUIDELINE) Women's 60+/-5 Shore A
2.9.7 YELLOWING TEST ASTM D1148 ≥4-5 Grade For White Outsole
Caleres In-House Method

2.9.8 Non-marking ≥4 Grade
- tile / wood swipe
SATRA TM221/ASTM D  ≥ 70 index for USA
2.9.9 NBS abrasion resistance
1630  ≥ 100 index for Canada

2.10 EVA MIDSOLES

2.10.1 Hardness (Asker C) ASTM D2240
Minimum varies for specific designs Minimum.35
2.10.2 Anti Yellowing ≥4-5 Grade For White Or Light Color

3.0 Component
3.1 – Foam sock
Property Test Method Minimum Requirement
ASTM-D2240 (2002) Hardness 25-45 Shore OOO

3.1.1 Memory Foam
ASTM-D792 (Modified) Density 95-115 kg/m3
Thickness 2 - 5.5 mm from toe to heel

3.1.2 PU ASTM-D2240 (2002) Hardness 25-30 shore C
Density: 0.30- 0.35 g/cm3
3.1.3 Heel Cup ASTM-D2240 (2002) Hardness 50-55 Asker C
3.2 LACES
Athletics: Dry≥ 20 kg
3.2.1 Tensile – breaking strength SATRA TM 94 Hikers: Dry≥ 25 kg
Every day / other: Dry≥ 15 kg
3.2.2 Tip attachment strength SATRA TM 175 Lace tips ≥ 10.0 kg to pull tip off
No excessive visible damage on surface or
lace breakage
normal ≥ 3,000 cycles
3.2.3 Lace to lace abrasion resistance SATRA TM 154 cotton lace ≥ 1,000 cycles)
All material for Hiker/Work shoe
≥ 3,000 cycles)
Waxing lace ≥ 1,000 cycles (Walmart)
3.2.4 Knot slippage SATRA TM 195 First slippage ≥ 0.9 kg, final unlock ≥ 3.0 kg
3.2.5 Wear test Not untied after one day wear

3.3 Elastic
3.3.1 Resistance to repeated extension No more than 10% rubber thread breakage and
SATRA TM 103 no more than slight visible damage
(Only if customer requires)
after 10,000 cycles
Child ≥15.0 kg/cm
Adults & Boys ≥ 20.0 kg/cm
3.3.2 Tensile Strength SATRA 29
Round Type gore < 3.0 mm diameter
≥9.0 kg/cm
3.4 Hook & Loop Tapes

3.4.1 Peeling strength SATRA TM 123 As received 170 g/cm
3.4.2 Shearing Strength SATRA TM 123 As received 750 g/cm2
3.5 Zippers
SATRA TM 52, Method 1 Adult & Boys ≥ 25.0 kg

3.5.1 Puller attachment strength Misses/Youth ≥ 20.0 kg
ASTM D2061 Infant/Toddler ≥ 15.0 kg
3.5.2 Top and bottom stop attachment SATRA TM53 ≥ 14.0 kg
3.5.3 Lateral load SATRA TM 51

≥ 38 kg
(breaking strength of chain) ASTM D2061
3.5.4 Slider locking strength SATRA TM 226 ≥ 7 kg

Pre-walk 2.3 kg.cm
3.5.5 Puller Torque (Twist) Toddler 3.5 kg.cm
Others 4.6 kg.cm
3.5.6 Burst strength (for Metal zipper) SATRA TM 166 ≥ 16 kg
3.5.7 Rusting SATRA TM 310 No Corrosion On Surface

3.6 Trims including Buckles

3.6.1 Corrosion resistance SATRA TM 310 Method 2 No Corrosion On Surface

Men's ≥25 kg
3.6.2 Three point bending test SATRA TM 141 Women's ≥15 kg .
Children's ≥12 kg
Men's ≥25 kg
3.6.3 Breaking load SATRA TM 151 Women's ≥20 kg
Children's ≥15 kg
Children ≥ 15.0 kg
3.6.4 Pulling strength for buckle/strap
SATRA TM 181 Women ≥ 20.0 kg;
assembly (Critical)
Men ≥ 25.0 kg
3.7 Insole Board (test as applicable)
Property Test Method Minimum requirements
FOR ALL CUSTOMER

3.7.1 Internal Bond
SATRA-TM 80 (1992) Dry ≥ 3.5 kg/cm2
Z Direction Tensile Strength
Wet ≥ 1.5 kg/cm2
Thickness Cycles
1.00 400
3.7.2 Flex SATRA-TM 3 (1999) 1.25 500
1.50 750
1.75 and greater 1,000

3.8 Heels
3.8.1 Impact resistance

SATRA TM 20
(applicable to heels less than 30mm 5.5J (without damage)
BS 5131: 4.8
wide) (Critical)
3.8.2 Fatigue resistance
SATRA TM 21
(applicable to heels less than 30mm 14,000 blows (without cracking)
BS 5131: 4.9
wide) (Critical)
3.8.3 Heel pin holding strength
SATRA TM 96 80kgf/cm
(Done by supplier)
Notes 1. LENGTH is 18mm (ONLY MEASURE THE LENGTH UNDER HEAD, DOESN'T INCLUDE HEAD HEIGHT. See Photo 1)
2. VALID SCREW THREAD LENGTH IS 15MM (MEASURED FROM THE 1ST THREAD TO THE END THREAD at TIP. See PHOTO 2
3. THE LENGTH OF PUNCH INTO SHOE HEEL SHOULD BE at least 15mm.
4. If cannot meet due to design, upon written substantiation, only Caleres VP can approve in writing.
5. WILL ACCEPT THE FATIGUE RESULT NOT LESS THAN 10,000 CYCLES, IF CUSTOMERS HAS THEIR OWN
STANDARD, NEED TO MEET BOTH STANDARDS
Photo 1 Photo 2

3.9 Top Lifts

Softstep toplift of TR, Rubber, TPR
Max. 100mm3
Softstep toplift of TPU without Steel Pin
Max. 40mm3
3.9.1 Abrasion resistance SATRA TM 174 Softstep toplift of TPU with Steel Pin
Max. 40mm3
Normal toplift of TPU with Steel Pin
(width less than 11mm)
Max. 100mm3
Autoloc type(1) TPU 0.30 (dry and wet)
SATRA TM 144 PVC 0.40 (dry and wet)
ASTM F2913-11 Spigotted type(2) TPU 0.30 Dry
3.9.2 Slip resistance (Critical) TPU 0.25 Wet
PVC Not recommended
Or ASTM F609 modified Dry 0.5 min. , Wet 0.3 min
Softstep toplift of TR, Rubber, TPR
85-95 Shore A
Softstep toplift of TPU without Steel Pin
85-95 Shore A
Softstep toplift of TPU with Steel Pin
3.9.3 Hardness (TPU) SATRA TM 205
Street side 92+/-2 Shore A
Inner side 95+/-2 Shore A
Normal toplift of TPU with Steel Pin
(width less than 11mm)
95+/-2 Shore A
(1) Usually over 10mm wide
(2) Attached to steel pin and usually under15mm wide

4.0 Specialty
4.1 Waterproof
ASTM-D2099 Leather must withstand 15,000 flexes
4.1.1 MAESER FLEX SATRA TM-34 with no leaking or wicking of moisture
(1993) to the backside of the material
4.1.2 Wet FLEXING
SATRA TM 77 No water penetration after 15,000 flexes
(WHOLE SHOE FLEX IN
(APRIL-1992) (water level just above the feather line)
TAP WATER)
No water penetration after subjecting an un-flexed shoe/boot to
CALERES IN-
a Static Soak test for 2 hours.
4.1.3 STATIC SOAK HOUSE
Shoe /boot is checked every 30 minutes for water penetration
METHOD
(water level is just below first eyelet).
AATCC 22-2005
4.1.4 WATER
SATRA TM217: 80-Wetting of material surface at spray points
REPELLENT
1999
Rating of water repellent
100 -No sticking or Wetting of upper surface
90 - Slight random sticking or Wetting of upper surface
80 - Wetting of upper surface at spray points
70 - Partial Wetting of whole of upper surface
50 - Complete Wetting of whole of upper surface
o - Complete Wetting of whole upper and lower surface
4.2 Work boots

Property Test method Class / compression force Minimum clearance height
4.2.1 SAFETY TOE ASTM F2412 Class 75 ≥ 2,500 lbf Men’s ≥ 0.50 inch (12.7mm)
COMPRESSION Class 50 ≥ 1,750 lbf Women’s ≥ 0.468 inch (11.9mm)
4.2.2 SAFETY TOE Class 75 ≥ 101.7 J (75ft-lbf) Men’s ≥ 0.50 inch (12.7mm)
ASTM F2413
IMPACT Class 50 ≥ 67.8 J (50ft-lbf) Women’s ≥ 0.468 inch (11.9mm)
4.3 Washable

No Obvious Dyeing Transfer &
4.3.1 WASHING SATRA-TM 158 (1993)
< 5% Shrinkage In Length/Width

5.1 Complete Shoe & Constructions Tests

SATRA TM144:2011 o Fashion/casual - 0.3
o Children’s – flat contact - 0.5
ASTM F2913-11 o Performance e.g. sports 0.6
o Normal: Dry 0.5, Wet 0.3
o Skid resistant: Dry 0.7, Wet 0.4
o TX rubber
5.1.1 Slip resistance (coefficient of friction
on dry & wet clay tile, heel and forepart)
dry:0.7/wet:0.4/oil:0.2/oil+water 0.2
(Critical) Quarry tile Dry & Wet ≥0.68
Or ASTM F609 Oily low contaminant or Oily + wet low
contaminant ≥0.38
Oily high contaminant or
Oily + wet high contaminant ≥0.33
Careers Rubber outsole
ASTM F1677 method
o Athletics(men's/women's/children's)≥20kg
5.1.2 Adhesion of upper to sole o Men's ≥ 20.0kg
(Critical for routine test) o Women's/Children's(dress/sandal/Casu
FIA-1206
(or upper to midsole)Up to 20% lower may al/slipper)≥15kg
200 MM/MIN.
be acceptable with deep material tearing. o Infant / Pre-walker ≥ 10.0kg
Caleres VP QA must approve in writing. o EVA & Rubber / Phylon & EVA midsole
material (all kind of shoes) ≥ 2.0 kg/cm
5.1.3Adhesion of upper to sole
(Critical for analysis)
(or upper to midsole) Primary FIA1206
o 3.0kgf/cm
Up to 20% lower may be acceptable with deep Secondary SATRA TM411
material tearing. Caleres VP QA must approve
in writing.
5.1.4Adhesion of midsole to outsole
(Critical)
Up to 20% lower may be acceptable with SATRA TM411 o 2.0kgf/cm
deep material tearing.. Caleres VP QA
must approve in writing.
5.1.5 Toe Load (Secondary) SATRA TM404 (1992) o 12kgf
5.1.6 Facing strength (e.g. pulling o Men’s/children’s 30kgf

strength for eyelets, ski-hooks, D-rings SATRA TM 149 o Women’s 20kgf
etc.) (Critical) o Infant’s 15kgf
o Children ≥ 15.0kg
5.1.7 Eyelet security – Cone test SATRA TM 150
o Adults ≥ 20.0kg
o Men’s/children’s 25kgf
5.1.8 Strap and buckle o Women’s 20kgf
SATRA TM 181
attachment strength o Infant’s 15kgf
BS 5131:5.11 o Straps/buckles attached with elastic 15kgf
(Critical)
o Jelly designs 10kgf
o Men’s/children’s 25kgf
5.1.9 Strap to sole attachment strength
SATRA TM 120 o Women’s 20kgf
(Critical)
o Infant’s 15kgf
5.1.10 Thong/toe post attachment o Children ≥ 20.0kg
SATRA TM118
strength (Critical) o Adult ≥ 25.0kg
SATRA TM181 o Children ≥ 150kg
5.1.11 Tongue attachment strength (N) (modified) o Women ≥ 20.0kg
o Men/Boy ≥ 30.0kg

o Work Boot / Hiker /Men's: ≥ 25.0 kg/cm

SATRA TM 180/BS o Women's / Child / Functional ≥ 13.0
5.1.12 Seam strength
5131:5.13 kg/cm
o Decorative ≥ 4.0 kg/cm
o Adult - 4kgf (sequins & beads 2.5 kgf)
SATRA TM 117 (may need
5.1.13 Pulling strength of decorative o Children’s footwear which could be a
modification according to
ornaments (Critical) choking hazard, must meet CPSIA
attachment design)
requirements 7kgf
o Attachment sign of first damage ≥ 60kgf
5.1.14 Heel attachment strength and
SATRA TM 113/BS 5131: o Permanent set at 40kgf not more than
permanent set (Critical)
15% of heel height
5.1.15 Top lift attachment strength SATRA TM 108 o 14kgf
o No damage / cracking after
- Room temp for 50,000 flexes
5.1.16 Sole Flex crack resistance - Cold for 20,000 flexes
SATRA TM92
Athletic/Casual/Dress/Hiker
@ 10º Celsius
Snow Boots @ -20 º Celsius
5.1.17 Vulcanized Foxing adhesion ≥ 2.0 kg/cm for each part o BS-5131.5.14
o No Obvious Dyeing Transfer &
5.1.18 Washing SATRA-TM 158 (1993)
< 5% Shrinkage In Length/Width
o No change of color or finish after 60º
5.1.19 Aging test SATRA TM 409 (1993 modified)
Celsius for 7 days
o Upper to lining (cement construction)
5.1.20 Peeling Strength - upper strap BS 5131.5.1
≥ 1.5 kg/cm
.

6.1 Restricted Substances - Tier 1

Property Test method Maximum requirements
 SATRA TM443 –
for metal items
 SATRA TM442 – <100ppm in substrates
6.1.1 Lead content
for non-metal items <90ppm in surface coatings
 SATRA TM428 –
for surface coatings
6.1.2 Cadmium content BS EN 1122 <100ppm
6.1.3 Chrome VI content EN ISO 17075 <3ppm
for leather only
<1000ppm
Per SATRA
BS EN 15777
6.1.4 Phthalates content BS EN 14372
mainly found in PVC/plasticised PU
EN ISO TS 16181
BS EN 14362-1
6.1.5 Azo dyes content BS EN ISO 17234-1 <30ppm of each amine for dyed leathers and
For all dyed materials (leathers and textiles) BS EN ISO 14362-3 textiles
BS EN ISO 17234-2(3)
BS EN 12472
<0.5µg/cm2/min for products in prolonged
6.1.6 Nickel release BS EN 1811
contact with the skin
SATRA TM354(1)
Note: Prop 65 requires that all materials that may contain substances included on the list of chemicals known to the
state of California to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity be labelled appropriately. The legislation does not identify
maximum levels for the substances. The requirements above are derived from SATRA’s footwear restricted substance
list (Issue 6: August 2013)

Lab test request form blank shown below – (available as Sourcing Guide 05 Parts Folder Excel file also)
CAL

Footwear Lab Testing Guidelines

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Footwear Lab Testing Guidelines

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FOOTWEAR LABORATORY TESTING MANUAL

Caleres believes that a successful continual improvement process is based upon a

Caleres’ values – including personal accountability, passion, creativity, curiosity, and

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 1 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

Administration rules – SOP (Standard Operating Procedures)

II. Internal Suppliers

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 2 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

3. Production finished shoes

4. Restricted substances – see section 5

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 3 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 4 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

Laboratory Tests -Table of Contents

6.0 Restricted Substances – Chemicals 27

7.0 Part folder form 28

All Tests are mandatory unless designated as “Secondary” below

“Critical” designations are defined pursuant to Juran’s Quality Control handbook,

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 5 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

1.0 Uppers & Linings

1.1 Leather Uppers

1.1.1 Tear Strength Pig skin 0.8-1.0 mm ≥ 4.0 kg

1.0-1.2 mm ≥ 15.0 kg/cm2;

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 6 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

1.2 Synthetic Uppers (Including PU and PVC coated fabrics)

Suede PVC, PU & LAMY PVC, PU

1.3 Textile Uppers

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 7 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

1.4 Leather Linings

1.5 Synthetic Linings (including PU and PVC coated fabrics)

Air Permeability Pressure in the receiver

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 8 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

1.6 Textile Linings

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 9 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.1.1 Hardness (Shore A) ASTM D2240  Men's 65±5

2.1.3 Flexing endurance – BATA Belt

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 10 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.2 EVA Outsoles

 Every day: no worse than slight marking

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 11 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.3 Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR) Outsoles

2.3.8 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1630  ≥ 45 index

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 12 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.4 Expanded Polyurethane Outsole

2.4.9 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1630  ≥ 80 index

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 13 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

Property Test method Minimum requirements

SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC ?  No cracking after 50,000 flexes

2.5.3 Flexing endurance – BATA Belt

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 14 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.6 German Outsole

Property Test method Minimum requirements

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 15 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.7 LEATHER OUTSOLES (Genuine & Bonded)

SATRA TM 60 @ 25ºC  6 mm max. cut growth after 50,000 flexes

2.7.3 Flexing endurance – BATA Belt

2.7.7 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1630  ≥ 45 index

2.8 TX TRACTION OUTSOLE

2.8.2 Oil Resistance ASTM D-471 < 12% (Volume Swell)

2.8.6 NBS abrasion resistance SATRA TM221/ASTM D 1630  ≥ 100 index

June 12th 2015 SG 05 – Page 16 ©2015 Caleres Inc. – Confidential Property

2.9 CAREERS Outsoles for Walmart

2.9.1 Oil Resistance

For Walmart USA

For Walmart CANADA

ASTM D1630 ≥ 70 Index (For Walmart USA)