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Content

Introduction: Water Based Printing for Beginners 1

Getting the Rich Background on Water-based Printing 2

Learning the Awesome Truth About Water-based Printing 5

Exploring the Feel-Good Benefits of Water-based Printing 7

Taking the Plunge into the Many-Colored World of Water-based Printing 9

Creating Your Perfect Water-based Design 12

Preparing Your High-Quality Screen for Water-based Printing 14

Crafting a Vibrant Mix for Your Water-based Print Jobs 16

Selecting a Custom Fabric for Your Print Job 22

Setting Up Your Press In Fine Detail for Water based Print Jobs 26

Looking at the Unique Types of Water based Printing 29

Curing and Cleaning Up Your Eco-Friendly Water based Print Job 31

Selling One-of-a-Kind Water based Prints to Your Customers 33

Recapping the Reasons Premium Water Based Printing is for You 34

 01
Chapter
Introduction: Water Based
Printing For Beginners

Buckle up, because you’re about to get schooled — Ryonet continuing education style.

If you’re reading this book, you’re probably just dipping your toes into the realm of water based
printing. Perhaps you’re looking for more information on its pros and cons; unique benefits and
limitations; requirements and rewards.

Maybe you’re not sure yet if water based printing is for you, or how to integrate it with your
current business offerings. Well we’re here to let you know that “Yes, water based printing is for
you!” And, with a few tips and tricks, water based printing can not only be a great addition to
your products and services, it can be one of the best investments you’ll make in your business for
years to come.

But before we get into the nitty gritty of the “how,” let’s talk about the background of water
based printing — where it started, and where it is now; its former limitations and its current
benefits; and why your customers are demanding water based prints.

Published: May 3, 2016

Authors: Ryan Moor, Josh Wells, TJ Stepper
Cover Design: Ryan Cole
Layout Design: Emily Rogers

1
02
Chapter
Getting the Rich Background
on Water based Printing

2
The Genesis
As a screen printer, your day probably revolves around plastisol inks. And why wouldn’t it?
Plastisol has dominated the US market for decades now. But it wasn’t always this way.

Believe it or not — water based inks were actually the first inks used in screen printing. Since
the mid-century, artists like Andy Warhol have looked to water based inks to produce some of
their greatest works, due to their soft feel, and ability to accommodate complex designs. But, as
everyone knows, Andy Warhol was never the norm. T-shirt printing was in its infancy back then,
and screen printers were still learning. Only those apprenticing with master screen printers were
able to handle the unique challenges of working with water based inks — which, at the time,
were thin and dried quickly in the screen; limiting their functionality.

Then along came Plastisol — a thick ink that could be quickly flashed and stacked on top of itself,
that didn’t dry in the screen. With Plastisol, screen printers could run more complex designs,
print on any type of garment, and mass produce. It was the invention that would catapult screen
printing into a full-blown industry and a true art form.

The Revival of Water Based Printing

While Plastisol certainly has its benefits — quality never goes out of style. Water based ink
is experiencing a revival, as regulations such as the Consumer Product Safety Information
Act (CPSIA) have shifted the industry away from phthalates and plastisol. As these new
regulations have irreversibly altered the construction, price point and printability of plastisol ink,
technological advancements have made water based ink increasingly more attractive.

The industry is getting behind water based printing, with Europe leading the way at 90%
adoption. Following their example, fashion heavyweights like Nike and Adidas have fallen in
line, completely moving away from Plastisol. Apparel companies on the whole are beginning to
recognize not just the demand for, but the superior feel and breathability of water based prints.

The Types of Water based Inks

So what is water based ink anyway? And what makes it special? Simply put, water based ink is
any ink which uses water as a solvent base to carry the pigment. From Ready-For-Use (RFU) inks,
to newer formulations like High Solid Acrylic (HSA) — water based inks deliver unique benefits.
Here are some highlights on the two most common categories of water based inks:

RFU Inks: Ready-For-Use (RFU) inks are the easiest for beginners to use.
RFUs come pre-mixed, in a large selection of the most commonly used colors. You can print
with them right out of the bucket onto lighter fabrics, or use a white or discharge underbase
to get more vibrant prints on dark garments. Ryonet manufactures RFU Green Galaxy inks
with a ratio of 80% transparent base, 20% opaque base and pigment, which gives the inks
high coverage and helps to keep them on top of the fabric for the most vibrant colors
possible.
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HSA Inks: High Solid Acrylic (HSA) inks are ideal for more complex jobs.
A newer formula, HSAs include a thickening binder that mimics plastisol ink, keeping them
from drying too fast, while ensuring they can easily stretch and stack on top of each other
while applying halftones or simulated process printing techniques. At the same time, they
still offer the soft feeling of a water based print t-shirt when properly cured. Ryonet’s Green
Galaxy inks™ are an HSA water based ink hybrid, made with a 20% opaque HSA base that
allows the ink to remain vibrant, sitting on top of the shirt fibers versus down into the fibers.
HSAs give you the best of both worlds.

Water based Ink Mixing Systems and Additives

But it’s not just about the ink, right? It’s also about how it’s mixed, and the additives you put into
it.

Mixing Systems: Allow you to design your own colors and ink mixtures.
Using a mixing system, you can create literally any color of ink you want, tapping into a
full range of Pantone colors using pre-designated formulas. Need more opacity or better
coverage? Simply use more opaque base in the mixture and modify the pigment ratio slightly.
Some mixing system pigments, such as Ryonet’s Green Galaxy™ Fusion Mixing System, also
allow you to use each individual pigment as an additive to use in special effect bases, like
discharge, metallic, and reflective inks--giving you the freedom to tint and create different
colors with a wide variety of effects.

Additives: Help you adjust your ink for use in new applications.
Your ability to customize water based inks doesn’t stop at color. Using additives, you can
adjust your ink for new applications. Ryonet’s Green Galaxy™ Warp Drive allows you to cure
your water based inks at a much lower temperature than ever before, without special curing
equipment. Low cure additives like Warp Drive also expand the ink’s application for athletic
and non-cotton fabrics, while avoiding heat-related issues like dye migration.

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 03
Chapter
Learning the Awesome Truth
About Water Based Printing

You know water based printing, but do you really know water based printing? Sure, it had a bad
reputation in the past, but today’s water based is nothing like the old. Gone are the days of water
based inks being runny, transparent or hard to work with. With new technologies like HSA and
low cure additives, water based inks are so good, they’ll make you wonder why you’d ever work
with plastisol again.

Let’s dispel some falsehoods and explore some truths about water based printing.

False: “Water based printing is complicated and unpredictable.”

This ain’t your granddad’s water based ink anymore. Today’s water based inks are
virtually indistinguishable from plastisol — mimicking their printability and appearance,
while offering a softer feel. Don’t believe it? Check out Ryonet’s HSA Green Galaxy™
water based inks.

False: “You have to invest a bunch of money in new equipment and

supplies in order to properly cure water based ink.”
Sure, back in the day water based inks required some special stuff (like air flash units and
conveyor dryers) to help you filter out escaping steam during the curing process. But
not anymore. Today, new low cure additives, such as Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Warp Drive,
help you to cure your ink with the simplest tools at temperatures even lower than athletic
specific inks. This is for you, heat-gun enthusiasts.

False: “Your screens will wear out really fast.”

Let’s keep it real. All emulsions are water-soluble at some level. When exposed to water,
eventually they’ll break down. The industry, and manufacturers, feel your pain, that’s
why we’re creating products like Ryonet’s Green Galaxy™ CryoCoat, that are specially
designed to hold up against the damage that water based inks can cause.

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False: “You don’t have as much control over water based ink.”
Pshaw. Today’s water based ink mixing systems, like Ryonet’s Green Galaxy™ Fusion
Mixing System, allow you to customize your ink to your heart’s desire. Choose your
Pantone®, play with the opacity, or use your pigments as additives in special effect bases
(discharge, metallic, and reflective). The options are virtually limitless.

False: “Water based inks can’t be used in long runs because they dry
out.”
Sure, you have to consider evaporation when using water based inks, but recent
upgrades to water based formulations have remarkably improved in-screen open time.
We’ve even been able to use our Green Galaxy water based ink multiple days in a row
while in the screen, using a combination of proper flooding techniques, light water
misting, and a plastic bag for overnight storage. Take that, plastisol!

False: “Water based printing is too transparent to produce pure

colors.”
Have you seen a water based print lately? Water based printing can now produce
extraordinarily vibrant colors — with the help of new formulations. HSA formulas, like
Green Galaxy water based ink, have a much higher pigment ratio and thicker body to
their ink, so you can create designs that are just as colorful as in plastisol, but feel a
whole lot softer.
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 04
Chapter
Exploring the Feel-Good Benefits
of Water based Printing

Water based printing isn’t for everybody, but we can give you seven good reasons why it might
be right for you. If you’re considering making the switch, now’s the time. Why? Because...

Your customers want water based prints.

Taking a cue from industry leaders like Nike and Adidas — customers want water based
prints. They may not know that the super-soft t-shirt they just bought was a water based
print, but they can tell the difference. With designs that look great and feel even better,
there’s good reason these prints are flying off the shelves.

Water based prints just feel better.

Show your customers you care with products that feel great against their skin. With
today’s technologies, there’s no reason they should ever have to experience the
bulletproof feel of a solid underbase print with the design stacked on top. When it
comes to the touch-test, plastisol’s got nothing on water based ink.

Water based inks produce higher quality prints.

Water based prints don’t just feel better, in many ways, they are better. Because water
based inks are thinner and sit deeper within the garment’s fabric, you can actually print
in higher detail, with finer registration and on more delicate garments than thicker inks
like plastisol.

Water based printing helps you, and your products, stand out.
What do you want to be known for? How about being known as the shop in town
for soft, vibrant prints that bring customers’ designs brilliantly to life. Water based
printing can differentiate you in the market, offering unique benefits that help you build
preference and customer loyalty.

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Water based printing is better for the environment.
Water based inks are made of natural substances, like...water. Used correctly, they’re
a safer, more environmentally-friendly option. Water based inks don’t have any plastic
in them, which means that no petroleum or fossil fuels went into their creation. And,
because they’re water-soluble, no chemicals are required for cleanup — keeping
potentially harmful substances out of the water supply. In an industry with a reputation
for harsh chemicals and toxic waste, you can feel good about printing with water based
inks.

Water based printing enables you to say ‘Yes!’ to more jobs.

Being environmentally-friendly means you can say ‘yes’ to more jobs, knowing that
you’re able to meet new laws and regulations, like CPSIA. As phthalates are outlawed on
more and more types of garments, with PVC soon to follow, soon water based inks will
become the gold standard. Wouldn’t you rather be a first mover in the brave new world
of eco and human-friendly printing?

Water based printing saves you money on supplies.

Once considered a drawback, the thin consistency of water based inks is actually
becoming a pro. Water based inks allow you to use a higher mesh when printing wet-
on-wet, instead of flashing between colors. That means you can use less ink, when
employing products like Ryonet’s Green Galaxy water based ink. How’s that for a win?

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05
Chapter
Taking the Plunge into the
Many-Colored World of
Water based Printing

9
Water based printing isn’t as hard as you might think. The key is to dip your toes in and get
used to the water (based), before jumping all the way in. Follow these three steps and you’ll be
in the swim of things in no time.

Dip your toes in: Print single or multi-color designs on light garments using only dark
water based inks.

Printing on light garments is the best way to dip your toes into water based inks, since the
process is similar to that of plastisol.

Because water based ink is thinner, you should use a higher mesh and try to print wet-on-
wet instead of flashing between colors. Water based ink settles into the garment better than
plastisol — preventing the ink from picking up as much on the back of the screen. Thinner
ink also means that you can move the squeegee faster as well, which speeds up your printing
process and saves you energy. The end result is effective production and a shirt that looks and
feels great.

What you’ll need - Supplies Techniques

Set of basic water based ink colors. Check out Ryonet’s Green Galaxy™ line.
Water resistant or hardener emulsion. Prevent your screen from breaking down.

Forced air dryer or Green Galaxy™ Warp Drive. Cure your inks at a lower temperature with Warp drive.

At lease 1 high mesh screen.

Step your foot in: Experiment with water based simulated process prints on
dark garments.
Feeling ready to wade in a little further? Take another step into the world of water based
printing with simulated processes that allow you to create complex designs with an
unbelievable degree of softness. That’s right, no plastisol-style t-shirt shields here!

Water based inks use higher higher mesh screens, more detail and wet-on-wet printing, for an
overall thinner layer of ink (and better feel). You may need to make some adjustments to the
underbase and highlight options to compensate for the more transparent ink. We recommend
laying down a 70% halftone underbase first and flash, then printing the highlight white and
flash, and finally, the colors.

Another option is to add a flash at the end, before the highlight white, to really boost the
vibrancy and keep the print from getting muddy. Because the ink is thinner, it doesn’t stick quite
as well to a solid white underbase as plastisol. The halftone underbase helps the ink bite into
the fabric for a smoother application of the top layers.

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What you’ll need - Supplies
Select Water based ink colors for your design.
Water resistant emulsion or emulsion hardner.
Forced air dryer or Green Galaxy Warp Drive.
Flash dryer that can handle water based flashing
Techniques
Check out Green Galaxy™ inks & Green Galaxy™
Fusion Pantone® Mixing System.
Cure your inks at a lower temperature with Green
Galaxy Warp Drive.

High mesh screens for your design. Choose 230 mesh for base layers & white
highlights, & a 305 mesh for top layer colors.

Jump in with both feet: Try vector style printing with bold block colors, and
complex layers on garments that are not 100% cotton.
It’s time to get wet with vector prints — a more complex use of water based inks. You’re ready,
and the payoff is worth the time they take to produce. Just make sure you use a more opaque
brand of HSA water based ink, and flash between colors to avoid pickup. Be careful with your
squeegee pressure and angle, to ensure the ink lays on top of the base, instead of driving
through it.

What you’ll need - Supplies Techniques

Water based inks in a large variety of Control color and consistency with the Green
speciality colors. Galaxy™ Fusion Pantone® Mixing system.

Blocker underbase / cure reducer like Green Print on dark polyester garments and athletic
Galaxy™ Warp Drive. wear without dye migration.

Water resistant emulsion or emulsion hardner. Cure your inks at a lower temperature with
Green Galaxy™ Warp Drive.

A flash dryer that can handle water based.

High mesh screens for your design. Choose 230 mesh for base layers & white
highlights, & a 305 mesh for top layer colors.

High mesh screens for your design. Choose 230 mesh for the base layer and white
highlight, and a 305 mesh for remaining top
colors.

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 06
Chapter
Creating Your Perfect
Water Based Design

Ready to get started? We thought so. Let’s begin with the design. For the most part, designing
for water based printing isn’t that much different from plastisol, except for one major thing…the
amount of flashing you’ll do.

That’s right, unlike Plastisol, your flashy water based design, won’t be super flashy. At least not
in the production sense. You’ll flash less frequently (if at all) with water based inks, because you’ll
probably be printing wet-on-wet.

Don’t get trapped with plastisol ink

When printing with plastisol ink, many people employ a technique called trapping. A method
which slightly enlarges the design in each separation and uses the overlapping edges to make
registering easier. While this can increase the speed of on-press registration, it requires flashing
in-between colors and eliminates the possibility of printing wet-on-wet.

Mix it up with water based formulas

Printing with water based ink means you can’t use the trapping technique, but you can print
wet-on-wet. Trapping, without flashing, in-between colors will cause your water based inks to mix
where they overlap. Using less flashes will require you to be more mindful when preparing your
separations.

• Don’t use trapping, keep your design edges crisp and accurate.
• Reduce your underbase coverage and use a blocker when printing on
darker colors.
• Use separation software to limit the amount of coverage you need in
your underbase for more complex designs.

Don’t get too flashy when it’s not necessary

If you’re printing on a manual press, you can flash whenever you feel it’s necessary, because the
flash unit is separate and can usually be placed on any platen and swung in and out.
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When considering your flashes during automatic printing, you have more restrictions. Since your
flashes will most likely be placed on a particular station on the press and you may not have as
many.

Get dipped with wet-on-wet water based designs

Using flashes on an automatic forces you to rethink the print order or your colors, and even
the number of colors in your design. You need at least one cool-down station after each flash.
On a smaller press, this can drastically reduce the number of colors in your design. But on an
automatic, the world is your oyster. Start your process in the art room to get the most out of your
automatic. Make sure you set up your images for wet-on-wet; examine the order of your colors to
make sure you don’t need flashing in between; and avoid trapping and you’ll be in business.

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 07
Chapter
Preparing Your High-Quality
Screen for Water Based

Water based printing takes special care to achieve the kind of detail your prints deserve. Both
water based ink and discharge can eat away at the edge of your stencil, turning your crisp prints
fuzzy. But don’t worry, we’ve created a short list of expert recommendations for your water based
print jobs.

Choose a high mesh screen for a high-quality print

Choosing a higher mesh count will prevent thinner water based inks from looking muddy. Base
your mesh count decision on your image detail and coverage area of your print. The larger the
area and the less detail present in your design, the lower the mesh count (156 or 200 mesh). The
higher the detail and smaller the coverage, the higher you can go in mesh count.

The lowest mesh I would ever go with when printing water based inks is 156. Only if
I’m printing an underbase or printing on a poly-lycra blend would I venture into the
86 or 110 range. Otherwise, using screen mesh lower than 156 can actually deposit
too much ink and cause oversaturation, which causes issues when curing the ink.
–TJ Stepper, Director of Education, Ryonet

Degrease your screen so your design can shine

Take it from us — never skip degreasing. The first step to a high-quality print is a clean screen.
Degreasing removes any oils, dust and dirt from the mesh; all of which can cause issues in the
adhesion of your emulsion, such as pinholes and fish eyes. These issues are especially concerning
when printing with water based inks, since the emulsion is prone to faster breakdown already.
Starting with a well-degreased screen will help your stencil last longer. 14
 Degreasing cleans the oils and chemicals off of the screen mesh, and will absolutely
keep your stencil from breaking down over a print run. Everything in printing comes
back to the quality of pre-press work, why skip this part? –Matt Mirpourian, Owner,
Pacific North Press

Resist breakdown with the right emulsion

Choosing a water-resistant emulsion is the key to protecting your screen. All emulsion types are
water-soluble at some level. But some more so than others. Using a water-resistant emulsion will
help you to avoid premature emulsion breakdown. For those extra long runs, there are additional
steps you can take to fortify your emulsion to help prevent this. Read on for the down and dirty.

We struggled for a long time against water-logging. Our emulsion edges would get
wiggly and soft and we just couldn’t get our water based prints to look good after a
few hundred shirts. Then we started using Green Galaxy CryoCoat, it’s an emulsion
made specifically for water based printing, and we’re never going back.
–Ryan Cole, Owner, Cole Ink

Make your screen harder, and your job easier

Hardening your screen will improved its durability, especially during those long runs.

Once your screen has been exposed, you have the option to take an additional step of
hardening it. You can do this a couple of ways. First, you can put the screen back on the
exposure unit and expose it again. This re-exposure process will help to harden any remaining
soft emulsion. Do this after you have already washed out the image and your design is print-
ready. Second, you can chemically harden it with products like Ryonet’s ProChem HardenX. To do
this, spray the hardener onto the washed out and dried screen. Spread the hardener evenly over
the emulsion and wipe the excess off with a rag. Then, let it dry. It will take time for the hardener
and the emulsion to chemically bond. To get the best results, let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Whether you use HardenX or just simply post-expose with UV light, this step is important to
create a screen that that will last longer. The downside is that both of these steps make it more
difficult to wash out the stencil during the reclaiming process. But it’s a small price to pay to
prevent your screen from prematurely breaking down during the printing process.

Post-exposing the screen will help a lot with durability, and a hardener will help
even more if the print run is long. We harden screens regardless for runs larger
than about 1000 pieces. –Matt Mirpourian, Owner, Pacific North Pres

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 08
Chapter
Crafting a Vibrant Mix for Your
Water based Print Jobs

Water based inks provide you with a lot of versatility when it comes to mixing it up. You can
go with Ready-For-Use (RFU) inks for a quick start, match your favorite Pantone with an ink
mixing system, or tap into discharge to customize your inks for use on dark fabrics..

RFU Mixing: RFU inks don’t need to be mixed into a base before printing
RFU inks can be mixed to your heart’s desire — as long as you mix water based with water
based. In fact, RFU ink mixing is becoming so popular and common that many ink companies
are compiling ink mixing formulas with software specifically for their RFU inks.

PRO
Unlike conventional “pigment and base” mixing systems, RFU inks are
already ready to print and do not need to be mixed into a base to be able to
cure onto the garment. Time saver, for sure!

CON
One limitation of mixing RFU inks is you won’t be able custom color mix a
specialty ink, like a shimmer by using the inks as pigments. Plus, RFU mixing
systems aren’t as versatile when it comes to mixing Pantone colors; a handful
of which might fall just outside of your reach.

How to mix with Green Galaxy™ RFU inks

To mix Pantone colors with Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Water based RFU inks, you’ll need to use
a formula guide. One of Ryonet’s ink mixologists created one just for this purpose. Use it to
mix any of your Green Galaxy water based inks. All of the colors in the guide are a 1:1 (50/50)
mixture of two inks. Experiment to create more unique colors on your own.

What you’ll need:

• A mixing container with a lid.
• Ink spatulas.
• A gram scale.

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What you’ll do:
First, turn on your gram scale and let it zero out. Then, put the mixing container on the gram
scale. Once it reads the weight of the container, zero out the scale. You don’t need the weight of
the container. You want the weight of the ink.

Determine how much ink you actually need in your final quantity. This can be done via a rough
estimate: 1 pint equals roughly 250 smaller prints / 1 quart will do 500 smaller prints. Or, you
can use an ink calculator. There are several online, but most will focus on the pricing of the ink as
opposed to how much you will actually use.

Once you determine the amount of ink needed, it’s as simple as dividing the amount into two
parts, then adding the two respective inks into the container and mixing.

Ink Mixing Systems: Let you plug and play the Pantone color of your dreams
Most ink mixing systems are comprised of a varied number of different pigments and at least one
mixing base. They’re usually complemented by a web based mixing software that allows you to
plug in whatever Pantone color is desired to determine the ratio that can be mixed to achieve
the desired color. The software will then list out all items needed to make the color you want in
the appropriate quantity.

PRO
You can mix almost every Pantone color. You open your horizons to facilitate
any trademarked color for larger clients. You have to only stock the minimum
amount of colors or pigments rather than full ink lines.

CON
Time. It takes time to mix a specific color and you will need to check it to make
sure it prints correctly. Most often you can’t facilitate specialty colors such as
metallics and fluorescents.

How to mix with the Green Galaxy™ Fusion Mixing System

The Green Galaxy Fusion Mixing System is a water based ink mixing system comprised of
eleven different pigments and two bases: Green Galaxy Opaque Core and Green Galaxy Clear
Core. It utilizes six add-in RFU fluorescent colors called Green Galaxy Boosters that need to be
purchased outside of the kit. These boosters can be printed by themselves as stand alone inks
or as a component of a desired Pantone color. About 5% of the formulas in the Fusion Mixing
System call for these fluorescent boosters that add vibrancy to your final Pantone color.

Before getting started, you’ll want to designate a space where you are going to mix ink. Ideally
somewhere that’s easy to clean up, because mixing ink can be messy.

17
 What you’ll need:
• A connected device: computer, tablet or smartphone.
• A gram scale (reads 1/10-1/100 of a gram).
• Mixing containers with lids.
• Ink spatulas.
• Something to cut with.
• Gloves and something to clean with.
• A Pantone guide.

What you’ll do:

First, find the Pantone color that you want to mix. Finding a color in the Pantone guide is as easy
as finding the index in the back that tells you where the chip is located. You might also need to
match the color of an ink that has come from another printer. In that case, you’ll need to find
a Pantone color in the guide that matches the pre-existing print. Take your time and look at a
couple different options until you find the right color. We often look at a color we’re trying to
match in a couple different light sources - indoors and in natural light, as well. Some ink mixing
areas will even have what’s called “color-correct” bulbs which help to correct for any lighting
variations which can mess up your color match.

Once you know your Pantone color, open up the Green Galaxy Fusion Mixing Software and plug
in the Pantone number and the final amount that you will need to mix. This will give you the
correct formula for your Pantone color.

Turn on your gram scale and let it zero out. Then, place the mixing container on the scale. You’ll
then need to zero out the scale or “tare” the scale, so you can determine the weight of the ink,
not the container. Then, start adding the components in the formula as indicated by your mixing
software. Make sure to zero out the scale in between each component so you can measure the
amount of each additional part.

The first component in your formula will always be Green Galaxy Clear Core base, while the
second will always be the Green Galaxy Opaque Core base. Each base has unique properties
that it gives to the final ink. Green Galaxy Clear Core base gives Green Galaxy inks their “easy to
print” and “great open time” qualities, while Green Galaxy Opaque Core gives the ink its body,
opacity and the ability to stand up on white base. They are typically indicated an 80/20 mixture,
but the exact ratio will fluctuate slightly from formula to formula.

Tip: If you ever needed to have more opacity in an ink you could shift the ratio to more of a
50/50. Just keep in mind that since the Opaque Core has more body it will have more tendency
to dry in the screen.

Pour the bases into the containers slowly. Take your time, it’s much easier to add more than it is
to take a component out.

18
The rest of the components will be pigments. Unscrew the top of the squeeze bottle and pull out
the plug. Screw the top back on, then snip the tip off of the top to create a hole, and keep the
little red top to use as a cap when the bottle is not in use. Slowly squeeze the pigment into the
mixing container. Again, be patient and don’t go to quick. A few grams too many can make the
color not match the desired Pantone color. And remember to zero out the scale in between each
pigment.

When it comes time to add the white pigment, there is a slightly different method we
recommend following. Instead of adding all of the pigment at once, start by adding 50% of the
white and then mix the color. This will help you catch any formula issues before it’s too late. Now
check your mixed color with the Pantone color chip and see how it matches up.

If it still needs white, you can start to add the other 50% in at 5% or 10% ratios at a time, until
you hit the desired color. Some printers who regularly mix their pantones choose to wait until all
other pigments are mixed and then mix in the white pigment 10% at a time.

The last step is to test your freshly mixed color. Print it onto a white garment for a neutral
comparison, and make sure you do a test print onto your final garment color choice. Cure your
print and compare it to the original Pantone color chip to make sure the mixed ink’s color is
accurate.

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Discharge Mixing: Lets you create custom colors for dark garments without
an underbase
Discharge is a water based ink product consisting of a reactive formula using two parts. The goal
of discharge is to achieve custom colors on dark colored garments without using an underbase. It
works by removing the actual pigment from the natural fibers and creating a natural light colored
base to print on top of. Discharge works when you mix a discharge ink with a discharge activator.
Once the ink is activated and printed onto a garment, the ink is then cured on the garment. As
the ink cures it oxidizes and removes the dyes out of the fibers in the garment, leaving behind
the pigments of the ink, or lack thereof.

PRO
Discharge printing will leave your garments with a much softer feeling than if
you had printed inks on top of an underbase. Even a water based underbase
will have a thicker feeling than discharge.

CON
Discharge doesn’t work effectively on fabrics other than 100% cotton, hemp,
and bamboo (though some garments with very high cotton content will
discharge to a degree and give you a very cool, unique look).

How to mix using Green Galaxy™ Fusion Pigments and Ryonet Discharge base
You can purchase some pre-made discharge colors, but the most flexible way to print discharge
inks is to purchase a discharge base and mix Green Galaxy Fusion mixing pigments right into it
to create custom discharge Pantone colors.

What you’ll need:

• A connected device: computer, tablet or smartphone.
• A gram scale (reads 1/10-1/100 of a gram)
• Mixing containers with lids.
• Ink spatulas.
• Gloves and something to clean with.
• A Pantone guide.
• Green Galaxy Fusion Pigments.
• Ryonet discharge agent and Ryonet discharge base.

What you’ll do:

First, find the Pantone color that you want to mix. Finding a color in the Pantone guide is as easy
as finding the index in the back that tells you where the chip is located. You might also need to
match the color of an ink that has come from another printer. In that case, you’ll need to find
a Pantone color in the guide that matches the pre-existing print. Take your time and look at a
couple different options until you find the right color. We often look at a color we’re trying to
match in a couple different light sources - indoors and in natural light, as well. Some ink mixing
areas will even have what’s called “color-correct” bulbs which help to correct for any lighting
variations which can mess up your color match.

20
Once you know your Pantone color, open up the Green Galaxy Fusion Mixing Software and plug
in the Pantone number and the final amount that you will need to mix. This will give you the
correct formula for your Pantone color.

Turn on your gram scale and let it zero out, then place the mixing container on the scale. You’ll
then need to zero out the scale or “tare” the scale, so you can determine the weight of the ink,
not the container. Then start adding the components in the formula as indicated by your mixing
software. Make sure to zero out the scale in between each component so you can measure the
amount of each additional part.

The first component in your formula will always be Green Galaxy Clear Core base, while the
second will always be the Green Galaxy Opaque Core base. Combine these two numbers to get
the amount of Discharge Base you will be using. g.

Tip: Remember you should only mix the amount of ink you think you will be using for the job at
hand. Once the agent is introduced the pot life of the mixed ink will be approximately 8 hours.

Pour the base into the container slowly. Take your time, it’s much easier to add more than it is to
take a component out.

The rest of the components will be pigments. Unscrew the top of the squeeze bottle and pull out
the plug. Screw the top back on, then snip the tip off of the top to create a hole, and keep the
little red top to use as a cap when the bottle is not in use. Slowly squeeze the pigment into the
mixing container. Again, be patient and don’t go to quick. A few grams too many can make the
color not match the desired Pantone color. And remember to zero out the scale in between each
pigment.

When it comes time to add the white pigment, there is a slightly different method we
recommend following. Instead of adding all of the pigment at once, start by adding 50% of the
white and then mix the color. This will help you catch any formula issues before it’s too late. Now
check your mixed color with the Pantone color chip and see how it matches up.

If it still needs white, you can start to add the other 50% in at 5% or 10% ratios at a time, until
you hit the desired color. Some printers who regularly mix their pantones choose to wait until all
other pigments are mixed and then mix in the white pigment 10% at a time.

Note: If white is the color you are looking to discharge there are pre-mixed white discharge
bases available. This is easier and more efficient than use white pigment into a clear base.

Once your color is correct and you are ready to go you still need to add the discharge agent. You
will mix this in at 5% to the weight of the ink. Discharge agent comes as a powder so go slow
and try to keep it from billowing into the air. This product has a very distinct smell and should not
be inhaled. Mix it slowly until the agent has dissolved fully into the ink.

The last step is to test your freshly mixed color. Print it onto a dark garment and make sure
you do a test print onto your final garment color choice. Cure your print and compare it to the
original Pantone color chip to make sure the mixed ink’s color is accurate.

21
09
Chapter
Selecting a Custom Fabric
for Your Print Job

22
When you’re printing on high-quality fabrics, like 100% combed and ring-spun cotton, the
comparatively thinner consistency of water based inks won’t matter. But when you need to print
on lower-quality shirts, you’ll want to apply a few best practices to make sure you get a smooth,
even print.

Managing the differences between ring spun and carded cotton

The quality of the cotton used to make a ring-spun shirt is much higher than carded cotton.
Carded cotton is like your standard low-end 6.1 or 5.5-ounce fabric. The thread is lower-quality in
these garments and the weave of the fabric is less fine. This creates a rougher and more uneven
surface to lay your print on, and you will find that low quality cotton shirts tend to fray and wear
out much faster. Since the surface of the fabric is so rough, you often have to use more ink to
get a nice smooth surface on your print. This is because thinner inks, like non-HSA water based
inks, tend to sit into the weave of the fabric instead of sitting on top, like a plastisol print. This
can cause the the ink to look more faded and washed out, when in reality it is not! It’s actually the
fibers of the shirt peeking through the ink layer.

Here’s how to make your water based prints look great on low-quality cotton shirts:

Use a good water based ink as an underbase.

Printing on top of an opaque underbase print mats down most of the fibers in the ink,
allowing the next layer to sit up on top of the garment instead of in the fibers. We
recommend using Green Galaxy Comet White HSA ink since its thicker formula gives it
more body and prevents the ink from sinking in as much.

Use additional opaque base.

If you mix your own water based inks, use more opaque base in the mixture. The opaque
base will allow the ink to sit on top of the garment versus in the fibers. Standard RFU
mixtures use a 20% opaque base in the formula. This is plenty of base to sit on top of the
fabric and help your ink to last the test of time without looking washed out and faded.

Printing with water based ink on non-cotton fibers

Tri Blends:
A tri-blend garment will act more like carded cotton then ring spun. Because of the different
blends of fiber types used, the ink won’t adhere to the fabric as easily as 100% cotton. Also,
since these fabrics are more sensitive to heat, it’s a bit harder to cure the ink. If you treat
printing on tri-blends like printing on carded cotton your prints will last longer and look more
professional. Opaque bases and Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Warp Drive work great for this.

Poly or Poly Blend Garments:

Water based /HSA inks actually adhere very well to poly fabric because of the consistency and
quality of the thread and the finer weave of the fabric. When printing on light poly fabrics you
can use standard RFU inks or a standard mixture of fusion ink. However, when printing on dark

23
fabrics, dye migration comes into play big time! As poly fabric heats up 280 degrees F, the
polymer pores open up and let the dye in the thread into the environment. This means a white
print on a black shirt turns grey. There are two ways to avoid this. Use Ryonet’s Green Galaxy
Warp Drive and cure at a low temp, under 260, this should be 90% effective. Or use Warp Drive
and a blocker underbase. Blocker underbases add an extra step but prevent dye migration from
getting into the top layer of the inks. This is the way to print on poly if you want the BEST results.
Higher grade poly garments also produce less dye migration.

Choosing between water based and discharge printing

Water based printing provides the greatest consistency across fabric types.
Water based printing allows you to have a more consistent print regardless of the fabric type
chosen. It can be printed on all colors and most fabric types. 100% cotton is the best choice, but
it can be printed on 50/50 and tri-blend garments without having to change much to the printing
process. There are even options that allow you to print on polyester with water based inks. This
consistency allows you to be reactive to your customers needs and offer a wide range of options
for the job.

24
Discharge printing allows you to rapidly produce soft prints on a small range of fabrics.
Discharge is a good option if you’re trying to get the job done fast or want to have the softest
print possible. Because you can often avoid having an underbase, it can be a quicker process.
That said, discharge only works on cotton fibers, certain types of dyes and colors. Colors such
as royal blue, forest green, and maroon are not dischargable. This limits your garment color
choice if discharge is the prefered method. You should only discharge with first-run garments, as
well. Once again, higher-quality garments tend to discharge better than lower quality garments
which are sometimes re-dyed depending on marketing demand. Next Level Apparel has a great
shirt guide for best waterbase and discharge printing results that we have included for you to
download and review.

It is best to get to know your supplier if you are going to print discharge. You can ask them if
the garments are first-run or re-dyed. What is a re-dye? Sometimes manufacturers end up with
an excess of garments in a color that did not sell well for the year. They will then send those
garments back to the dye house and have them re-dyed, often to black. The black dye used
to re-dye the garments is typically a different and more powerful formula than the standard
black. These garments will give mixed results because there are now several layers of dye in the
garment.

These garments are fairly easy to identify though; they tend to be a little softer as if they have
been washed, they are almost always black, and the big indicator is a discolored label in the neck
(because they are dyed after they are sewn). If you don’t know the status of your garment, the
best bet is to use water based printing for a more consistent print.

25
10
Chapter
Setting Up Your Press In Fine Detail
for Water Based Print Jobs

26
Setting up your press for water based printing shouldn’t be too hard, as the process isn’t too
terribly different from plastisol. The devil is in the details though. You’ll need to make some
adjustments to your supplies, off-contact and tilt, and overall setup to accommodate for the
minor differences in the process.

Using adhesives that work well in high-moisture environments

When choosing an adhesive, make sure you’re using one that works well with the amount of
moisture water based inks emit when heated. This is most important when flashing. Water based
adhesives work well, as they are reactivated with water. But spray adhesives may lose their tack
a lot faster. When setting up for water based prints, your goal is to print wet-on-wet as much as
possible. Understanding your tack is key to avoid any unnecessary movement.

Avoiding getting “washed away” with tapes and block outs

Be careful to get a water-resistant block out like Aqua Block, to avoid your block out getting
“washed away” during the print process. You might even consider putting a piece of tape over
the pinhole after using the block out to ensure it won’t bleed through; especially on a long run.
Tape is important as well. Using a quality tape that won’t lift during the print process is important.
Be sure when you tape the screen that you’re vigilant in making sure that all the edges are
pressed down so that the ink won’t slip up under the tape and loosen it during printing.

Getting a level up off the printing surface with off contact and tilt
Setting up your press is the same for water based as it is plastisol, except that the off-contact
and tilt need to be level and about 1/8” off the printing surface. Notice we did not say “off
the pallet.” When setting up off-contact, maintain approximately 1/8” inch off the substrate.
Sweatshirts are thicker than t-shirts, so you’ll need to raise the screen to accommodate them and
maintain proper off-contact. You can do this by putting the substrate or garment on the platen
and then placing a piece of 1/8” masonite or cardboard on top of it. You can loosen all the levers
on your print head and set it evenly down on the flat surface. Once it’s flat on the cardboard,
hold it in place and begin to tighten your levers. Once everything it tight, you can then remove
the cardboard and double check for the distance and level of the screen. Repeat this process for
all heads on the press.

Setting up your print for Water based success

Once the screen is set and off contact is created, you can begin to register your design. The
first thing you’ll want to do is draw a line on the pallet you’ll be using for set up. Be sure that all
pallets are the same distance from the center of the press and tightened on the press arms. If
they’re different distances you can have placement issues when using a rotary press. The center
line will aid you in lining up to the center of the pallet, acting as a visual guide for loading shirts.
Line up the center marks of the image on center line of pallet. Lock in the screen and you’re
ready to go.
27
Put ink in the screen and do a test print. This can be done on a pellon or an old shirt. Be sure to
flood the screen after printing so the image area does not dry out as you go through the setup
process.

Once you have the initial screen set up, you‘re ready to set up the other colors in the design.
Using a pellon can be helpful for a lot of reasons. Not only is it an economical way to do test
prints, but it’s also useful when you go to setup the other colors. Before bringing the next screen
in to line up, you can save time in the process by creating a “dry erase board” on your pallet. To
do this, use clear tape and cover the test print. This creates a see-through, protected surface to
begin lining up screens. Now you are ready to place the other screen in your press and begin
registering them.

For each additional color you can bring the screen down over the initial setup print. Line up the
registration marks and lock in the screen. Ink up the screen and print. When you lift the screen
you’ll see if it’s lined up. If so, move onto the next screen. If not, just wipe away the print on the
tape and re-register the print. Do this repeatedly until you get it right. By using the “dry-erase
method,” you can avoid wasting any pellons and t-shirts on registering.

Don’t forget, once all the screen are lined up, you’ll need to go back and tape off all the target
marks that helped you line everything up. Otherwise you’ll print those on the garment. Yikes.
Next, print the design in full to make sure all the colors line up and you’re ready to go.

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 11
Chapter
Looking at the
Unique Types of
Water Based Printing

Getting crispy with wet-on-wet printing for the ultimate softness

One of the many benefits of water based printing, as discussed earlier, is the ability to potentially
skip the flashing altogether when printing wet-on-wet. Would you rather spend your time
producing shirts, or flashing? We thought so. The reality is, there’s usually no need to flash in
between colors anyway, especially if you’re using a butt-to-butt style of separation as opposed
to spreading each color. Especially on light colored garments, with wet-on-wet you can print
quicker and still get a crisp, soft final product.

There are really just two scenarios where printers feel like they have to flash between colors.
Mesh count and spread, or stroked art. In each of these instances, printers sometimes fall into
the trap of using a lower than necessary mesh count, which deposits too much ink, causing it to
build up on the back of the screens. This produces blurry edges on the image and rough textures
on the ink surface. Over time it can start to hinder the screen from printing the image at all,
because the the ink build up has covered the intended area.

Most water based prints can be printed in the 200 mesh range. This allows you lay the
appropriate amount of ink without saturating the garment, which can lead to buildup and
blurring. The lowest you should ever go is 156 mesh, which is fine for large block areas. Just
keep in mind that, when putting a lot of ink down, there will be a difference in the hand on the
garment. If you’re going for a reduction in hand, and a soft feel — choosing the right mesh is
critical.
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Getting sporty with leading Water based inks for poly athletic wear
Today’s water based inks are challenging rival plastisol when it comes to printing on polyester.
Don’t believe us? Ask players like Nike and Adidas. Water based ink has come a long way and
the industry has noticed. If you want to stay ahead of the competition, it’s time for your shop to
join the water based team.

The Green Galaxy line of water based inks is ideal for printing on athletic wear. You’ll need to
take a few precautions and use the proper additives to get in the game. Many schools and teams
have specific PMS numbers that make up their colors. The Green Galaxy Fusion Mixing System
is the best place to start for a perfect match. You can’t stop there though. Since athletic or
polyester garments are well known for dye migration, you’ll need to take precautions.

You can use a couple of different techniques to minimize poly from migrating into water based
inks. First, you can use a blocker. Using a grey blocker keeps the colors from being affected by
any migration. This is especially important on darker fabrics colors and for those with known
migration issues like reds and purples. Since heat is a BIG factor in deciding if or when a poly
fabric will release its dye or migrate, you can add Green Galaxy Warp Drive to your Green Galaxy
inks. Using Warp Drive allows you to cure the ink at a much lower temperature than normal.

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 12
Chapter
Curing and Cleaning Up Your
Eco-Friendly Water Based
Print Job

Curing and cleaning up is a slightly different process for water based inks, with some unique
benefits. Water based inks clean up easily, and even give you the option to air dry your shirts.

Curing your water based ink at a low temp for a high-quality print
Curing water based inks is different than curing plastisol. Water based inks use water as part of
the medium that carries the pigment load. Curing these inks means evaporating the water from
the ink to cure the pigments into the garment. The best way to do this is with a forced air dryer.
The heat and the movement of air allows the water to evaporate while the pigments are being
set into the garment.

Most plastisol printers have IR dryers. You can use these too, but you’ll need to make sure to
slow the belt down so both reactions can happen. With dryers that have shorter tunnels, you may
want to run the garment through twice. The surface of the ink should temp out in the 320-325
degree range. Using Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Warp Drive will help you cure the ink faster, and at a
lower temp. You might even be able to air dry your garment!

Carding your water based ink for an easy clean up

Once you’re done printing, it’s time to clean up. The first thing to do is card all the ink out of the
screen and back into the container. This might not always be the case if you’ve been printing
for a long run and the ink has begun to congeal. You can add a little water to congealed ink to
bring it back. Once the ink is out, you can use Ryonet’s Sgreen Aqua Wash or Sgreen Supreme to
remove the remainder of the ink. Just spray on and wipe off. Sgreen Supreme can be used as an
effective in-sink remover as well.

A lot of printers will take water based screens to their darkroom and use water to remove the
remainder of the ink. This is effective, but be sure to have a filter on your drainage if you go this
route. There are other components in the ink besides water that you’ll want to capture in filters
before it heads to the grey water.

31
32
 13
Chapter
Selling One-of-a-Kind
Water Based Prints to
Your Customers

You know the “Why” for water based printing, now it’s time to tell your customers. Once you
know how to position the benefits of water based over plastisol, you’ll have a clear competitive
advantage over other shops.

Here’s how:
Showing how your work stacks up against the competition.
Keep samples of all your best work. Anytime you win a bid for work over someone else, ask your
customer for a version of the shirt you didn’t print or that was printed with plastisol. A physical
side-by-side example of how well your shirt feels and looks compared to the competition will put
you light years ahead.

Selling the shirt and the ink for an increased profit margin.
Remember, you’re not just selling the shirt, you’re selling the ink too — so it’s important that you
offer it as a packaged solution. If you are able to sell a better quality shirt along with a better
quality print, you’ll exponentially increase your profit margin.

Capitalizing on your green print thumb to create preference.

Show pictures of your shop (your clean shop). Explain how you can wipe up your ink with water,
instead of chemicals. Tell your customer all about how the ink you use is PVC and phthalate free,
CPSIA-approved for childrens wear, and the same type of ink brands like Nike and Adidas use to
get their high-quality prints. See how it impacts their decision to make you their shop of choice.

Charge what you’re worth, offering a premium product at a premium price.

Your work will be worth it, if you can prove to the customer it is better, then don’t be afraid to get
paid for it. Printing water based inks isn’t the easiest way to print. It is, however, the more earth-
friendly and consumer friendly way to go. Printing out or having samples available of both water
based and plastisol prints will help you make your case for water based with your customer. Let
them feel the difference in the design and the garment. Let them see that that not only are you a
good printer, but a smart one that is looking out for the environment. Your quality and values will
speak for themselves. This will let you charge for that premium print at a premium price.

33
 14
Chapter
Recapping the Reasons Premium
Water Based Printing is for You

Convinced yet that water based printing is for you? Let’s recap:

Water based printing is good for your customers

Customers want water based prints. To say they are indistinguishable from plastisol wouldn’t be
accurate. They are distinguishable, in the sense that they offer all of the benefits of plastisol, PLUS
a superior look and feel. Your customers deserve the best, and water based delivers.

Water based printing is good for the environment

Not only are water based inks water-soluble, they’re CPSIA-approved. Which means you can say
yes to more jobs, and you can feel great about it. As phthalates (and soon, PVC) are outlawed on
more and more garments, you won’t be losing business, you’ll be growing it. Beyond that, you’ll
have another defensible, marketable and monetizable reason that customers should choose your
shop for all their printing needs.

Water based printing is good for you

Which leads us to our last point, water based printing opens up new business (and creative)
opportunities for you, that will allow you to differentiate in the market and succeed. Water based
prints require less supplies and sell for more, increasing your margin exponentially as you grow.
They’re a smart way to become a premium provider of premium products that customers love.

And, water based printing is now easier than ever, so what are you waiting for?
As technologies have evolved, so has water based printing. Applying new product innovations
and a few tips and tricks to your techniques — you’ll find the transition from plastisol easier than
expected, and the results better than you might have once believed.

Ryonet is here as your partner, arming you with the right tools and resources to make your water
based print business a success. To learn more, or to purchase water based printing products,
including Green Galaxy, Prochem, Sgreen and more — check out the links in the following section.

34
Additonal Resources:
Learn about water based printing:
Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Formula Mixing Guide
Next Level Apparel’s Shirt Printing Guide

Purchase water based inks & printing supplies:

Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Inks
Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Fusion Mixing System
Ryonet’s Green Galaxy Warp Drive
Ryonet’s Green Galaxy CryoCoat
Ryonet’s ProChem HardenX
Ryonet’s Sgreen Aqua Wash
Ryonet’s Sgreen Supreme

35