Modern Patchwork

Blanket Construction and Pattern Notes

You are about to embark on an adventure allowing you to choose the look of your blanket so that it is perfect for your
recipient. Whether you create a blanket with different variations on the same square, or mix up your square patterns, this
guide gives you three extremely versatile blocks to choose from. As long as you use squares that make 20-21 stitches per
side, you can add in any square design you like! Treat this pattern like a tutorial and you will be making it again and again.
Note: I used a Kitty square that I found online in my sample blankets. This square is not my design, but can be found by
conducting an Internet search on “Hello Kitty crochet square chart” without the quotation marks.

Yarn, hook, and finishing treatments are up to you, the Creator. Gauge is less important, something that I love about
blankets! All processes in this pattern are simply my preference for this design. I am constantly working to improve my
craft, keeping my mind open to trying new techniques in hopes of discovering a new favorite method, and I will be
explaining my preferred methods in detail at every chance I get.

Consider this pattern a concept. If you are like me, then you tweak every pattern that you use. I won’t bother you by writing
“…but your choice may be different” type phrases after everything. I try to write my patterns keeping in mind that you’re
going to make it your own, and we can assume yours may be different from mine.

Pattern Contents

Materials and Construction Notes Page 2

Pattern
Circle Square Page 3
Perfect Granny Square Page 4
Chevron Square Page 5
Joining Squares and Border Page 7

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 1
Modern Patchwork Blanket Pattern

Skill level: Easy, Finished size: Approx. 32x42”, Gauge: Not terribly necessary for this project

Materials

DK or Worsted weight yarn in various colors (My example uses dark and light grey, pink, white, optional black)

Size K hook, or size that you would normally use with chosen yarn

Size I hook for finishing ends - NOTE: If you use a blunt needle, that’s fine

Terminology

I will attempt to use standard crochet language. My terms will be in the US style. My personal notes will be in the Southern
Drawl style. 

Construction Notes

For this project, you will decide how to arrange the different square blocks that I outline for you. After you decide how large
you want your blanket and how many of each design you want (or if you’re pining after making a blanket of pure chevron
squares like me!) and after you figure out your layout, you’ll be joining your choice of method, and adding a granny border
to finish your project in harmony with life and handmade goodness.

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 2
 Circle Square

Pictured above are the front and back side of this square. I carry the first color up to the third round and then cut, so that I
don’t have to weave so many ends and to protect the integrity of the piece.

Rnd 1: Chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to make a ring. All in ring: SC, chain 1, 15DC. Do not cut yarn. (16 DC)

Note: I use (SC, chain 1) as my beginning DC. You can use whatever method you like to make that first DC. Most
patterns have you make 3 chains.

Rnd 2: Join new color with a slip stitch to top chain of beginning DC. SC, chain 1, DC in same stitch. 2DC in all DC around. Do
not cut yarn. (32 DC)

Rnd 3: Bring first color up to make a SC, chain 1 in the top chain of the beginning DC of Rnd 2. DC in same stitch. Work (DC,
2DC) all around, ending with a DC. Cut yarn and finish off. (48 DC)

Rnd 4: (This round, you will make different height stitches in order to square off the circle shape.) Bring background color
up to Rnd 4 to make a SC, chain 5 in the top chain of the beginning DC of Rnd 3. TR (treble crochet) in next stitch. (2DC, HDC
(half double crochet), 4SC, HDC, 2DC, TR, chain 3 for corner, TR) around until you reach the first corner. After that final DC,
join to the second chain above your beginning SC. (48 stitches total plus 4 chain-3 corners)

Rnd 5: All in first chain space: SC, chain 4, 2DC. DC in all stitches around, making (2DC, chain 3, 2DC) in remaining 3 corner
spaces. When you arrive at the first corner, make 1DC in the chain space and join with a slip stitch to the first chain – right
above your beginning SC. (64 DC, 4 chain-3 corners)

Rnd 6 and 7: SC all around, making 3SC in all 4 corners. Join to beginning SC with a slip stitch. Cut and finish off after Rnd 7.

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 3
 Perfect Granny Square

Pictured above are the front and back sides of this square.

Rnd 1: Chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to make a ring. All in ring, SC, chain 2, (3DC, chain 1) 3 times, 2DC, join with a slip
stitch in the chain directly above the beginning SC.

Rnd 2: Slip stitch in same chain space, FLIP WORK OVER to the opposite side, (SC, chain 2, 3DC) all in same
space, (3DC, chain 1, 3DC) in all 3 other spaces around, 2DC in first space, join with a slip stitch to the chain directly above
the beginning SC.

Rnd 3-5 (pattern rnd): Slip stitch in same space, FLIP WORK OVER to opposite side, (SC, chain 2, 3DC) all in same space, 3DC
in all spaces across, (3DC, chain 1, 3DC) in corners around the blanket until you reach the first space. 2DC in that space and
join with a slip stitch in the chain directly above the beginning SC. (60 DC after Rnd 5)

Rnd 6: (SC, chain 1, 2DC) all in beginning chain space. DC in all 15 stitches across, (2DC, chain 1, 2DC) in corner. Continue
around until you reach the beginning. DC in first corner and join with a slip stitch to the first chain (located above the
beginning SC). (76 DC)

Rnd 7: SC all around, making 3SC in all corners. Cut yarn and finish off. (88 SC)

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 4
 Chevron Square
Base Triangle – Make 2 (pictured in second photo above)

Row 1: Chain 3 and slip stitch to make a ring. All in ring: (SC, chain 1, 3DC, TR, 4DC) (9 stitches)

Row 2: Turn work. SC, chain 1 in first DC. DC in same and next 3 stitches. In center TR: (2DC, TR, 2DC) – Shell made. 3 DC,
and work 2 DC in final stitch. Cut yarn and finish off. (15 stitches)

Chevron Pattern
nd
Row 1: Join 2 color with slip stitch to the first DC on the first triangle. Photo 1: SC, chain 1, DC next 2 DC together (this is a
st
decrease). 4 DC, Shell in center TR, 4 DC, and Photo 2: decrease 4 DC together as follows: the next 2 DC on the 1 triangle
nd nd rd nd
(omitting the final DC), and (omitting the (SC, chain 1) on the 2 triangle) the 2 and 3 DC on the 2 triangle, then Photo
3: 4 DC, Shell in center TR, 4 DC, decrease next 3 DC together – final leg of decrease will be decrease stitch of row before.
Do not work into the (SC, chain 1). Third photo below shows full row complete.

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 5
Pictured above is another look at the 4 stitch decrease. Explicit instructions: work a DC in each stitch up to the final step of
drawing yarn through final 2 loops. This will leave a loop on the hook each time, as shown in the photo. Finally, draw yarn
through all loops on hook to complete.

Row 2-6: Turn work. SC, chain 1 in decrease stitch. Decrease the next 2 DC together. 4 DC, (2DC, TR, 2DC), 4 DC, decrease
next 4 DC together, skipping over the decrease stitch in the valley of the row before. 4 DC, and decrease final 3 stitches
together, ignoring final chain as before. Carry yarn not in use along the side when switching color. Work 6 rows total – two
per color. When finished, you’ll be on the second photo above.

Now, fill in the three triangle shaped gaps (look at the top of the square in the third photo to see what I mean).

With Row 6 facing down, join yarn in the first decrease stitch, and (SC, chain 1). Decrease next 2 DC together, 2 DC,
decrease next 3 stitches together – final leg of decrease will be in center TR. Turn piece, (SC, chain 1) in decrease stitch,
decrease all remaining stitches together. Cut yarn and finish off. Outer two gaps will be filled in this manner.

Center gap: in center TR, (SC, chain 1). Decrease next 2 stitches together, 2 DC, decrease next 4 stitches together as before,
skipping valley stitch. 2 DC, decrease next 3 stitches together – final leg of decrease will be in the center TR. Turn piece, and
(SC, chain 1) in decrease stitch. Decrease all remaining stitches together, cut yarn and finish off.

Final round: join dark grey background color in top corner of piece. 3SC in same stitch. SC in all stitches around – make 20 or
21 stitches per side - 3SC in all corners.

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 6
Joining Squares and Border

You can join squares by whip stitch, slip stitch, SC, or whatever other join that you like! I used a continuous join-as-you-go
that I frequently use because I don’t like weaving all those ends and it’s speedy. I recommend this method! You can learn
more about it by doing an Internet search for “continuous join-as-you-go” and checking out my detailed free tutorial on
http://babylovebrand.net under “patterns.” Your squares will be roughly 20 or 21 stitches, so you may have to fudge the
joining a bit, but since only 1 stitch fluctuates, you can’t tell.

Border

Rnd 1: Join dark grey yarn in any corner. 3SC in same corner stitch and SC all around, making 3SC in corners. Join to first SC.

Rnd 2: (SC, chain 3, 3DC) all in center SC of corner. Skip 2 stitches and 3DC in next stitch, all around, putting (3DC, chain 2,
3DC) in the corners. When you get to the beginning, put 2DC to complete the first corner, and join in first chain above the
beginning SC. You should find you have 7 3DC groups along each square top/side, and 1 3SC group between each square. I
have a 3 x 4 square configuration, so I have 23 3DC groups across the top and bottom from corner to corner, and 31 3DC
groups on the long sides. This is an approximation, and the most important thing is to have equal opposing sides, and that
your border doesn’t “ruffle.” If it ruffles, then you have too many stitches. If it “puckers,” you have too few.

Rnd 3: (SC, chain 3, 3DC) all in first corner space. 3DC between all 3DC groups around, putting (3DC, chain 2, 3DC) in all
corners. 2DC in first chain space to complete first corner, and join to first chain as before.

This is how you will make your granny border. Work as many rounds/colors as you like. I made 3-5 rounds on my samples.
Once you are an inch from your final size, work the final 3 rounds. I worked my last granny round and my final 3 rounds in
the same color (pink). It’s very opulent! I suggest going down a hook size for these final three rounds to prevent ruffling.

Solid DC round: (SC, chain 2, 2DC) all in corner space. DC in all stitches around, putting (2DC, chain 1, 2DC) in all corners.
When you reach the first corner, put 1 DC in the chain space to complete the corner. Join to the first chain as always.

SC round: 3SC in chain 1 space. SC in all stitches around, putting 3SC in all corners.

(Optional) Reverse SC round: Work reverse single crochet – great instructions on http://CrochetCabana.com in all stitches
around. Do not work any additional stitches in the corners – this creates a “rounded corners” look.

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 7
Copyright Information

I made this pattern from my own brain. Feel free to keep, donate, gift, sell, trade, or destroy anything that you make from
it! It would be nice to have some linky love credit to babylovebrand.net for using my pattern, but I know that by the time
you’re done with it, you’ll have made it your own, anyway. You’ve bought my pattern; do what you want with it. Just don’t
sell it and don’t steal it and call it your own. Not too much to ask. Thank you!

BabyLoveBrand.net | pg. 8